Joshua Ellis Yorkshire’s best kept secret
Fig.1 front cover
table of contents 07 Introduction 10 Timeline 12 The Tale of Joshua Ellis 18 Tradition & Techniques 26 The Fabrics 28 Meet the Staff 40 Behind the Scenes 50 250 56 The Future 58 References
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an introduction Picture this, it’s Yorkshire so there has got to be rain, only a drizzle that skims the air breaking its fall on the moss. Pillows of smoke collapse into the air, slicing through the crisp sky. The fields play host to the factory, with sleepy-eyed workers ready to start the day. The year is 1767. George 111 is on the throne and Britain is in the midst of the Industrial Revolution. The machinery hums aggressively in the background and is in constant competition with the gentle chatter of the workers. The whirring, the talking, and the buzzing, the factory is alive with noise. Baskets of wool are scattered across the stone floor, as the sheep herd cautiously through the steamed windows. They are picked and spun into a fine thread, handled gingerly with callous hands. The end result is cloth, silken to the touch and a comfort to the skin. It is these fabrics, of the finest wool, that overwhelm the hub of the factory. Draped from every surface waiting patiently to be sold.
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Fig.3
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Joshua Ellis has a history completely unique to them. Their brand places them right within the centre of Yorkshire, it is interwoven with every metre of fabric that they sell. Since 1767, Joshua Ellis has been weaving and dyeing their products in Batley, West Yorkshire. From the second half of the 18th century, the Ellis family name has been connected to the cloth-making industry. It is a brand that incorporates both past and present, where modern machinery meets traditional techniques. Their fabrics are luxurious in every sense of the word, combining authenticity and quality; these are products that have had 250 years to be perfected. From cashmere and fine animal fibres, Joshua Ellis produces materials and accessories for a selection of the leading fashion houses. The business, although no longer in the hands of the Ellis family, has grown to accommodate a workforce of 55 people. The brand has continued to evolve over the years, however it has held its heritage at its core and this is a key factor of Joshua Ellis’ success. 2017 marks 250 years in Joshua Ellis’ history and this commemorative book will celebrate this event. Taking into consideration their past, present and future, this book will pull together key events, images, and interviews to uncover the story of Joshua Ellis, and how this brand has continued to captivate its staff, clients and buyers.
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timeline 1767
The first record of Joshua Ellis reveals the business began as a clothiers.
1895
Documents from this year reveal that travel rugs were a speciality.
1900 Frederick Ellis passes and the business is taken over by his son of the same name, Frederick Hattersley Borman Ellis of Mirfield. His share is however sold to his brother Henry for £3000. The name of Joshua Ellis & Company Limited was also formalised this year.
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1780
Indentures from this year acknowledge that Benjamin Ellis ( Joshua’s great-grandad) built a “large shop” that was at this time led by his brother William.
1882
After a period of ill-health Joshua Ellis passes.
1910/1920’s Between these years the weaving sheds were extended and the stables converted into a social hall.
1791
Benjamin, William and his son James were among 8 local clothiers working at Batley Carr Mills.
1876
Joshua Ellis retired from the business and his son Frederick takes over.
1912 After the death of Henry Ellis, his trustees sold the mill back to the company.
1798
Joshua, son of James Ellis is born.
1875
For unknown reasons the mills and estate are put up for sale, although these were bought back within 12 months.
1923 The steam engine is reportedly replaced with a horizontal tandem compound condensing engine of 600 hp.
1819
By this year James Ellis and his brother John owned four of the eight shares of the mill.
1850-1860’s
New weaving sheds for power looms were introduced.
1926 Press reports that Peter Ellis, the only son of F.H.B Ellis, was entering the firm due to a recent period of chaos.
2017
Joshua Ellis welcomed Princess Anne to the premises as part of the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations.
1820/1830’s
James’ sons, Joshua and George commissioned a new mill at Howden Clough.
1850
Joshua Ellis resumed control of the business this year, taking over from William Carr of Dewsbury Moor.
1932 John Huxley takes to the helms after the untimely death of Peter Ellis.
2008
The Seal Family introduced Joshua Ellis to the SIL Holding Group.
1830’s
During this period Joshua and George obtained the shares of James and John. Additional land was also purchased to finalise the site as it is seen today.
1839
After James Ellis’ death, George is bestowed Howden Clough Mills and Batley Carr Mills is passed to Joshua. This was under the condition that he would retire from the trade for 7 years allowing the mills to be let.
1967 Joshua Ellis’ bicentenary.
2005
The historic Batley Carr Mills are renovated into living accommodation, with the two mill chimneys remaining in tribute.
1832
A new weaving shop was added.
1838 Documents from this year mention a new engine house has been erected.
2002
Carding and spinning processes are contracted out to nearby Denby Dale.
2003 Grange Valley Road is the new location for the business.
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the tale of Joshua Ellis
Joshua Ellis has had 250 years to perfect their craft. Nestled in a quiet corner of Yorkshire, their history dates back to 1767, yet despite expanding over the years Joshua Ellis has its roots firmly planted here in Batley. The first company records reveal the business began as a clothiers, before diversifying into woollen textile manufacturing in the late 18th century. The Ellis family name has become synonymous with the textile industries, more so cashmere as of late. It is a business that has spanned over six generations of the Ellis family, however it was Benjamin Ellis, alongside his brother William and his son James that first established the trade. They were among 8 local clothiers, who used the steam powered Batley Carr Mills to facilitate the growing demand in their products. By 1819, James and his brother John Ellis owned half of the shares in the mill. Between the late 1820’s and early 1830’s, a second mill, Howden Clough, was commissioned as the business continued to grow. 1839 however saw the death of James Ellis, and the company was released into the hands of his two sons. Howden Clough was passed to George, and Joshua received the rights to Batley Carr Mills. Joshua’s time fronting the company is remembered fondly; upon retiring in 1876 company records show he was a “dedicated businessman” who “gained the respect and confidence of his workers”. The business at this point produced a range of products, including pilots, beavers, serges, cloakings, tweeds and fancy trouserings. Documents that have surfaced from 1895 also add travel rugs to this mix as a particular speciality for the business.
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“Joshua Ellis celebrates a distinguished heritage of British manufacturing with a steadfast reputation for luxury & quality.�
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“Renowned the world over for producing the finest handcrafted cashmere and woollen cloth.”
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Upon UponJoshua JoshuaEllis’ Ellis’s retirement retirement, the thebusiness businesswas wasshared shared between betweenhis histhree threesons, sons Robert, Robert,Henry Henryand andFrederick, Frederick. although Robert however Robert promptly promptlysold sold his hisshares sharestotohis hisbrothers brothersfor forthe sum the of sum £5700. of £5700. Frederick Frederick primarily primarilyran ranthe thebusiness businessthat that was wasshared sharedwith withhis hisbrother brother Henry, Henry,and andremained remainedtotodo doso so until untilhis hisdeath deathinin1900. 1900.Despite Despite his hisson, son,also alsonamed namedFrederick Frederick inheriting inheritingthe thecompany, company,he he preceded precededtotosell sellhis hisownership ownership back backtotohis hisuncle uncleHenry Henryfor for £3000. £3000.1912 1912saw sawthe thedeath deathofof Henry, Henry,and andhis histrustees trusteessold sold the themill milltotothe thecompany companyininthis this year. year.The Theperiod periodbetween between1910 1910 and and1920 1920also alsosaw sawthe thecompany undergo company a series undergo of changes a series of and improvements, changes and improvements, including a stable including conversion a stableinto conversion a social hall intoand a social an extended hall anddining an room extended for staff. dining Moving roomwith for staff. the times, Moving thewith steam theengines times, the were replaced steam engines in 1923were withreplaced an engine ofinthe 1923 horizontal with an engine tandem of the compound horizontalvariety, tandemrated compound at 600 horse variety, power. rated This at 600 served horse into the power. earlyThis 1960’s, served untilinto steam the power early 1960’s was abandoned until steam in power favour ofwas gasoline abandoned and diesel in favour of fuelled gasoline engines. fuelled engines.
PeterEllis Ellistook tookover overthe the Peter company in 1926, a move which company in 1926, a move which came at a difficult period in came at a difficult period in JoshuaEllis’ Ellis’s history noted Joshua history asas noted in the local papers, although to in the local papers, although to what extent was not fully what extent was not fully disclosed.After Afterthe thedeath deathof of disclosed. Peter in 1932, the last Peter in 1932, the last descendentof ofBenjamin BenjaminEllis, Ellis, descendent John Huxley came to the helm. John Huxley came to the helm. John originally was drafted in John originally was drafted in as part of the World War two as part of the World War two efforts,which whichsaw sawwool wool efforts, fabric being used to linethe the fabric being used to line spitfires. The results of the spitfires. The results of the war alsoalso sawsaw the the factory under the war factory under attack, which led to the attack, which led to the destructionof ofthe theweaving weavingshed. shed. destruction His son David Huxley later His son David Huxley later succeededJohn; John;David David succeeded operated the company untilitit operated the company until was sold to the SIL Holdings was sold to the SIL Holdings Groupupon uponhis hisretirement retirementin in Group 2008. The company was first 2008. The company was first integratedinto intothe theSIL SILHolding Holding integrated Group in 2003. First established Group in 2003. First established in1971, 1971,SIL SILwas wasalso alsoonce onceaa in family owned business andhas has family owned business and developed exclusive developed exclusive partnershipswith withaaset setof ofthe the partnerships most prestigious textile most prestigious textile manufacturingbusinesses businessesin inthe the manufacturing United Kingdom. United Kingdom.
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The Batley Car Mills, which was the hub of the company for a significant number of years, was renovated in 2005 into luxury accommodation. The two mill chimneys however remain as city landmarks, in a stubborn solidarity these make reference to the efforts and accomplishments of the Ellis Family and the company overall. The new premises, located a short distance from the original, are now on Grange Valley Road. It is here that the complete weaving and finishing processes are conducted all under one modern and spacious roof. Since 2008, SIL has invested over 3 million pounds in machinery, including six dornier looms, to ensure both the efficiency and quality of its merchandise. As of 2017, Joshua Ellis accommodates a range of products beyond those initially noted in 1895. The business provides luxury cashmere, wool and camel over-coating and jacketing fabrics for a set of the worlds leading fashion houses. The workforce has grown considerably in numbers, with the seven longest serving employees boasting a combined experience of 250 years. The company employs parents, children and siblings, so you get the sense that this is still an enduring family-led business. Joshua Ellis also dabbles frequently in apprenticeship schemes to ensure the textile industry continues to evolve with this injection of fresh talent. The company is proud to represent Yorkshire for UK textiles and uses a combination of technology that is constantly advancing and traditional practice to do so.
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Fig.7
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tradition & techniques “Some luxury goods will forever be synonymous with the places where they are made,” reads the company website, and for cashmere this is undoubtedly Yorkshire (2017). Cashmere is one of the world’s softest fibres, which is slightly ironic as it is also one that is exposed to the harshest of climates. Wearing cashmere is an experience in itself, renowned for its soft touch and warmth; cashmere in simple terms equates comfort. Cashmere dates back to the 14th century, where craftsmen in India wove the fleece into shawls. The 18th century saw cashmere exported from Kashmir in India to the western world, where the fabric was particularly popular in Britain and France amongst upper class women. Into the 21st century, cashmere is primarily used in knitwear, although from interiors to the less glamorous matter of insulation, cashmere is a multi-functional product. It remains a coveted resource and there is something special in the fact this is a fabric that fails to be reproduced or manufactured to the same standard artificially. Although more widely accessible in later years, cashmere has remained very much a luxury.
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9 shades of 470gm classic 100% cashmere fabric plus 12 colours of a more contemporary 420gm fabric. 100%cashmere ripple effect fabric is available in 8 colours.
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“Weaving the beauty of our rolling dales into every piece of fabric.�
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For Joshua Ellis, it is down to the fibre specialists to draw out the finest raw materials the world has to offer, may this be cashmere, lambswool, merino wool, vicuna, or camelhair. These fibres are tended to in-house, to ensure every product that is sent out and sold is of the highest quality. To Joshua Ellis, the manufacturing of cashmere is an art, it is both an expression of skill and imagination. Cashmere is derived from the cashmere goat. It is the harsh climate and exposure of barren landscapes that enhances the quality of the goats undercoat, which means this is something that has to be sourced much further afield from the UK.
Once compared to sheep’s wool, the fibres of cashmere are longer and smoother, and it is the undercoat, which is the cashmere, that is removed using a comb from under the goat’s chin. It approximately takes a goat one year to produce roughly 250g, enough cashmere to weave a scarf (Walters, 2015). The fibres are then transported to the UK to be dyed, spun and manufactured to meet the needs of the designers and reflect the current trends.
Fig.11
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Fig.12
Fig.13
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the check list: cashmere lambswool merino wool vicuna camelhair
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So from goat to garment, it is a painstaking, yet rewarding process, to achieve the delicate cashmere knits that you see in the shop windows or on the runways. It is one that cannot be rushed, and it is the mix of handcraft and mechanics, the best of both worlds, that creates the exceptional quality of Joshua Ellis. The first stage in the process is the dyeing of the fibres, and cashmere as a material is renown for its ease in adopting a range of hues and shades. During the dyeing the fibre must be submersed in warm water for at least 3 hours, the water must be soft, like the streams that line Batley, as this has a direct impact on the quality of the end product. Once the raw cashmere has been coloured and dried, it can then be carded. Carding is the process of disentangling the fibres and ensuring any impurities are removed, to present a uniform gossamer web. The finished web is then divided and wound into bobbins set for spinning. Once spun, which entails drafting and twisting the yarn to smooth and strengthen it, the strands of thread are transferred to the warping machine. It is the shuttle loom that holds the warp under tension, and using two sets of needles that inter weaves the over and under threads, the loom weaves the cashmere yarn into fabric. The teasel comes into play here, drawing a resemblance to a thistle, the teasel can be found from damp grassland to field edges. Its purpose it to raise the fibres, to achieve the finish we have long associated with cashmere. This can be used by hand, although Joshua Ellis has acquired a device, where these have been embedded horizontally onto the drum of a gig. To quality control, the fabrics are checked for anomalies and repaired by hand if necessary. The fabrics are then subjected to a two-hour cleaning process ready for the hand-finishing touches, cutting and folding ready for samples and sale.
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Fig.14
take 1 Mongolian goat +a splash of dye +3 hours soaking time in a stream + a carding machine to untangle +some spinning into the mix mighty loom which takes the yarn & replaces it with fabric +a teasel +one more bath +careful hands to cut & fold = voila, buttery soft
Batley +the or two cashmere.
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the fabrics The company as of 2017 creates cashmere and wool blends for both jackets and coats, as well as a lifestyle series that has surfaced from a partnership with the international interior designer Carolyn Parker. These are then exported to over 23 different countries. Every season, the business delivers an array of cashmere fabrics and fibres, drawing from that seasons trend report, a wealth of existing knowledge, and what I can imagine is quite a hefty archive selection from over the years. The aim is simple, to produce beautiful garments from the most luxurious of materials. Joshua Ellis has developed solid partnerships with fashion houses doing just this, delivering the finest fabrics over to their creative control. Yet for the most part, these are collaborations sworn to secrecy, it is highly likely, although not advertised, that the suits or shawls you see sashaying down the runway have derived from this quiet corner in Yorkshire.
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Fig.15
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Fig.18
meet the staff
55 250
members of staff currently hired by Joshua Ellis.
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years of combined service from the 7 longest serving employees.
The skill of Joshua Ellis’ staff is integral to the quality of their products, and the years of experience between them spans into the hundreds. In this section I have spoken to a few of the team to find out what Joshua Ellis means to them.
“The passion and commitment our people bring to their craft is an inspiration.� 29
My name is:
Kristie Reeves. My role within the company is:
Sales & Design Director. So this means everyday I:
Process & organise customer requirements. I have worked for the company for:
16 years. My career highlights are:
Seeing fabrics I have designed on the catwalks. My favourite thing about coming into work is:
Designing. Joshua Ellis in one word is:
Luxury. Cashmere to me feels like:
Home. If I could ask Joshua Ellis one thing it would be:
What did you envisage the company making in 2017? My best & most memorable birthday was:
My 40th as the Joshua Ellis ladies joined me for a night out in Sheffield. When I look to the future of Joshua Ellis I see:
Young people.
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My name is:
Lesley Stead. My role within the company is:
Pattern Room Manager. So this means everyday I:
Organise pattern requests for customers under a tight deadline. I have worked for the company for:
31 years. My career highlights are:
Achieving the goals of my role. My favourite thing about coming into work is:
Facing the challenges of the day. Joshua Ellis in one word is:
Quality. Cashmere to me feels like:
Luxury. If I could ask Joshua Ellis one thing it would be:
Would you say the company would last beyond 250 years? My best & most memorable birthday was:
40th. When I look to the future of Joshua Ellis I see:
A long established successful company.
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My name is:
Craig Tordoff. My role within the company is:
Loom Tuner Technician. So this means everyday I:
Change the styles on the loom. I have worked for the company for:
On & off for 38 years. My career highlights are:
Italy 1987. My favourite thing about coming into work is:
Seeing the smiling faces of my colleagues. Joshua Ellis in one word is:
Classic. Cashmere to me feels like:
A softly cascading mountain stream. If I could ask Joshua Ellis one thing it would be:
Did you ever think about going into the brewing business?? My best & most memorable birthday was:
A spa weekend in bath. When I look to the future of Joshua Ellis I see:
More smiling faces.
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My name is:
Kevin Lockwood. My role within the company is:
Production Director. So this means everyday I:
Oversee all matters relating to raw material, & the purchasing & production of cloth. I have worked for the company for:
4 years. My career highlights are:
Progressing to the level of Directorship at 4 separate companies. My favourite thing about coming into work is:
The daily challenges which vary from day to day. Joshua Ellis in one word is:
(3!) Expensive, quality fabric. Cashmere to me feels like:
Luxurious. If I could ask Joshua Ellis one thing it would be:
Do you expect your business to still be in existence in 250 years time? My best & most memorable birthday was:
18th- So I could legally go into a pub. When I look to the future of Joshua Ellis I see:
Growing & expanding into more markets across the globe.
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My name is:
Lee Brown. My role within the company is:
Financial Controller. So this means everyday I:
Prepare the financial & management information for internal & external stake-holders. I have worked for the company for:
2 years. My career highlights are:
Coming 3rd in the world in one professional exam & my involvement in the company’s biggest single project. My favourite thing about coming into work is:
The people I work with. Joshua Ellis in one word is:
Cashmere. Cashmere to me feels like:
A luxury product. If I could ask Joshua Ellis one thing it would be:
What made for your best business deal? My best & most memorable birthday was:
38th - I broke my shoulder & ribs, memorable for all the wrong reasons. When I look to the future of Joshua Ellis I see:
The premium offering of the SIL Group.
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My name is:
Nicola Costelio. My role within the company is:
Assistant Scarf Designer. So this means everyday I:
Design accessories on CAD. I have worked for the company for:
20 months. My career highlights are:
Designing things that get featured in magazines & catwalks. My favourite thing about coming into work is:
The people. Joshua Ellis in one word is:
Luxury. Cashmere to me feels like:
Gold in a fibre. If I could ask Joshua Ellis one thing it would be:
Are you proud of how the company has developed in your name? My best & most memorable birthday was:
7th birthday- I went rollerskating with my friends. When I look to the future of Joshua Ellis I see:
Continued heritage.
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My name is:
Shannon Leach. My role within the company is:
Fringing & Yarn Tester. So this means everyday I:
Fringe scarves. I have worked for the company for:
2 years. My career highlights are:
Learning to use the new machinery. My favourite thing about coming into work is:
Pay-day! Joshua Ellis in one word is:
Noisy. Cashmere to me feels like:
Rabbits. If I could ask Joshua Ellis one thing it would be:
Can we have more days off for holiday please? My best & most memorable birthday was:
Last year when I had the day off. When I look to the future of Joshua Ellis I see:
Me & John as managers :)
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My name is:
Ruth Chambers. My role within the company is:
Weaver So this means everyday I:
Weave! I have worked for the company for:
12 years. My career highlights are:
To do a skilled job to the best of my ability, so the products are sold worldwide. My favourite thing about coming into work is:
2 days are never alike. Joshua Ellis in one word is:
Great. Cashmere to me feels like:
Silk. If I could ask Joshua Ellis one thing it would be:
Pay-rise? My best & most memorable birthday was:
Joshua Ellis’ 250th anniversary birthday. When I look to the future of Joshua Ellis I see:
A bright one.
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My name is:
Steven Hinchliffe. My role within the company is:
Technician. So this means everyday I:
Repair, maintain & change the styles on the looms. I have worked for the company for:
3 years. My career highlights are:
Learning how to use the new machinery. My favourite thing about coming into work is:
Job satisfaction. Joshua Ellis in one word is:
Quality. Cashmere to me feels like:
The best. If I could ask Joshua Ellis one thing it would be:
What made you form the company? My best & most memorable birthday was:
All of them, apart from getting older. When I look to the future of Joshua Ellis I see:
Roses.
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“From our experienced buyers, to our gifted craftsmen and highly skilled designers, people are at the heart of everything we do.�
Fig.19
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Fig.20
behind the scenes ... where the magic happens, crafting fibres into fabric & sheets into shawls.
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Fig.21
thinking, sketching, planning, spinning, washing, dyeing, weaving, cutting, trimming, sewing & folding.
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Fig.22
A place to mull over new designs with a cup of Yorkshire’s best, ideas brew simultaneously with the kettle - & a lot of tea is consumed in this space. The design studio is an Aladdin’s cave, of swatches moodboards & trend reports.
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Fig.23
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Fig.24
From floor to ceiling, the Joshua Ellis premises houses rolls & rolls of fabric.
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Fig.25
“Marrying innovation in design & manufacturing with a commitment to investing in new generations, to develop the time-honoured skills that distinguish the Joshua Ellis brand.�
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Fig.26
Piles of yarn, in a rainbow of hues & textures are put to use in different designs, may this be for a blanket, suit, or scarf.
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Fig.27
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Fig.28
“ Yorkshire’s best kept secret” delivers luxury & quality fabrics proudly under the British label. Manufactured within the United Kingdown, but exported to countries all over the world.
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Fig.29
“And as that wealth of knowledge and experience has been handed down the generations, our philosophy has never wavered.�
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250 the royal lockdown We all have our favourite birthday memory, that one year that stands out, although it is doubtful that in any of these memories a royal made an appearance. Princess Anne, who is president of the UK Fashion and Textile Association, the British network for fashion and textile companies, was given a tour of the Joshua Ellis premises on Thursday 16th February 2017. This is just one way, a rather spectacular one admittedly, that Joshua Ellis has marked their 250th anniversary. Princess Anne was greeted initially by managing director Jayne Woodthorpe and sales and design director Kristie Reeves , before embarking on the tour. The princess met members of staff from all processes of production, to ensure a comprehensive understanding of the company was offered. The visit spanned 2 hours in total and concluded five weeks of preparation. An official package was firstly sent to Joshua Ellis once the visit was confirmed. This was a compilation of instructions, including a request that a schedule should be provided from arrival to departure, a list of individuals the princess will meet, as well as the areas of business that the tour will cover. A guest list of dignitaries who would also be invited to attend was also necessary.
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The event was marked in print by several Yorkshire news outlets, a proud reminder of Joshua Ellis’ heritage and place within this county. Princess Anne also unveiled a cashmere clad plaque on her visit, which stands pride of place in the lobby of the Joshua Ellis building. So how exactly do you plan for a royal visit without flying into a blind panic? Group marketing manager Lydia Ridler discloses that “the royals want to see things as they really are – but if you are expecting a member of the royal family to visit your home or workplace you want to make things look beautiful.” She also notes “there was a general tidy-up in the office and the factory and a little bit of tweaking to make sure everything looked at its best” (cited by Zientek, 2017). So in the words of Lydia (for future reference), keep things realistic and tidy! The big 250 was also marked in other ways, drinks receptions across the fashion capitals were arranged for valued customers. A limited edition baby cashmere scarf was also commissioned, as displayed in appendix A. Sourced from Inner Mongolia, each scarf has been carefully embroidered with a 250 and a firework motif, designed especially for this occasion. I even hear that Princess Anne has one in her collection.
“The royals want to see things as they really are – but if you are expecting a member of the royal family to visit your home or workplace you want to make things look beautiful.” - Group marketing manager Lydia Ridler.
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250 the press release
Her Royal Highness, The Princess Royal to visit Yorkshire woollen mill as part of 250th anniversary celebrations. Yorkshire textiles company Joshua Ellis is preparing for a Royal visit to mark the cashmere specialist’s 250th anniversary. The Princess Royal will visit the Batley-based firm, which weaves the most sought after luxury cashmere in the world, on February 16. The Princess Royal, who is the President of the UK Fashion and Textile Association, will be given a tour of the mill, which is situated in the heart of the historic Yorkshire textile industry. Joshua Ellis, which is owned by SIL Holdings was established in 1767 originally as a clothiers, before diversifying into woollen textile manufacturing in the late 18th century. Renowned the world over for producing the finest handcrafted cashmere and woollen cloth, Joshua Ellis fabrics and accessories are highly sought after by luxury fashion houses and are exported from the Yorkshire mill to over 23 different countries. The company’s design director Kristie Reeves said: “We are thrilled that The Princess Royal is joining in our 250th anniversary celebrations and we hope that she will enjoy her visit to Joshua Ellis. “There is a real buzz in the air and we can’t wait to take Her Royal Highness on a behind-the-scenes tour of our fantastic mill, which we hope will really showcase the incredible skills of our in-house team of design and production experts and prove that Yorkshire is at the forefront of fine weaving in England.”
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250 the princess diaries 9.30 am
-Guests to arrive prior to Princess Anne. -To be offered coffee. -Lord Lieutenant to meet HRH at the landing site.
10.15 am
-Arrive at the main entrance. Meet and greet outside if the weather is fine. -Lord Lieutenant to make introductions to civils/dignitaries. -Kevin Lockwood & Peter Cousins to take guests on a factory tour whilst HRH Party is taken upstairs.
10.35 am
-HRH will move upstairs to the boardroom. -Introductions. Coffee and overview of the company.
10.44 am
-Look down through the window onto the mill.
10.45 am 10.55 am 11.05 am
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-Main office to meet: Lee Brown, Julie Savage, Christine Woolf, Pam Pearson, Liz Harper, Helena Leeming & Lydia Ridler.
-Design office to meet: Charlotte Knowles, Louise Rawson, Nicola Costello & Beth Hey.
-Walk down back the staircase to the dye lab. -To the archives & pattern room.
11.15 am
-By the warping machine to meet: Dean Walton, Shannon Leach, John Leeming & John Rourke.
11.20 am
-Walk through the weaving department.
11.25 am
-Move onto the scouring department to meet: Ian Ward, Shaun Stainburn, Linda Jagger, Andrew Mitchell, Josie Stokes, Lesley Stead & Dean Walton.
11.35 am
-Move on to accessories to meet Kaye Gosling.
11.40 am 11.55 am 12.00 pm
-Main Entrance for a short speech. -Plaque to unveil. -Signing of visitor’s book. -Gift presentation.
-Departure greetings as per (reverse) of the original line up.
-Depart.
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the future What’s next for Joshua Ellis? The firm has continued to evolve over the years, since 2008 there has been more than three million pounds invested into machinery across the board, including the six new dornier looms, a jacquard loom and an IT system overhaul. These are investments for the future. Preserving the skills of the workforce, the traditions of the trade are also a priority; the company has become increasingly involved in apprenticeship schemes in partnership with the Huddersfield Testing Centre of Excellence. The company acknowledge the importance of nurturing both existing and emerging talent, as SIL’s managing director Andrew Seal outlines. This is to ensure all staff “understand all the aspects of our design, manufacturing processes and equipment maintenance” to allow the company to “replace an ageing workforce and pass traditional textile skills from generation to generation.” (cited by Zientek, 2017). British heritage fabrics are always in fashion, they stand the test of time, and are elegant, reliable and comforting. Yet it is a necessity, and of central focus, for Joshua Ellis to innovate and reinvigorate their classic pieces. To take a chunk out of developing luxury markets and push the business to new heights across the globe. In 2015, Japan was named the second-largest luxury goods market in the world (Business of Fashion, 2016,) it is a market that Joshua Ellis are right to try and infiltrate. The company opened a sales office in Tokyo in 2015, and now Japan sits alongside Joshua Ellis’ other main markets, which include Italy, the US and France. Diversification is also a key focus; Joshua Ellis offers a growing collection of own label accessories of scarves and stoles, simultaneous with delivering orders for fashion houses and wholesale.
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There is also the issue of sustainability, and the protection and preservation of fibre supplies is another pressing concern for the future of the business. Joshua Ellis are keen to broaden the existing noble fibres currently in use. This has also prompted a shift in focus to the “provenance and traceability of cashmere to track the fibre from the herders in Mongolia right along the production chain”, as Managing Director Jayne Woodthorpe acknowledges. The ethics of fashion has become a prominent influence within the realm of consumer spending, as buyers have become “increasingly interested in where their products come from” (cited by Hounslea, 2017). Whichever way you spin it, Joshua Ellis have perfected their craft and are well and truly experts in their field. They have a story, an interesting one, which customers buy into with every order. This will remain at the forefront of the business, as it consistently shifts to adjust to whatever political, cultural, and social climate it finds itself in. With the accomplishments of the past 250 years in consideration, there is a sense of excitement to what the next 250 will bring.
Fig.31
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the reference list Abnett, K. (2016). In Japan, luxury flourishes while economy flounders. Retrieved from https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/ global-currents/in-japan-luxury-flourishes-while-economy-flounders. Ellis, Joshua. (2017). The finest cashmere: discover the softest side of Yorkshire. Retrieved from http://joshuaellis.com/the-worlds-finestcashmere/discover/. Hounslea, T. (2017). Drapers textiles report: from 1767 to the future. Retrieved from https://www.drapersonline.com/business-operations/ supply-chain/joshua-ellis-from-1767-to-the-future/7018592.article. Walters, M. (2015). How your cashmere is made. Retrieved from https:// www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-09-17/how-your-cashmere-ismade. Zientek, H. (2017). How do you prepare for a royal visit? Joshua Ellis Ltd has some tips. Retrieved from http://www.examiner.co.uk/news/westyorkshire-news/how-you-prepare-royal-visit-12615810. Zientek, H. (2017). This textile firm was set up in 1767 - and is now marking 250 years at the top! Retrieved from http://www.examiner. co.uk/news/west-yorkshire-news/textile-firm-set-up-1767-12556926.
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the appendices
appendix a The limited edition 250th anniversary scarf. Unknown, (2017). Joshua Ellis is proud to offer its limited edition 250th anniversary scarf for sale. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BSjA-q _Au6M/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere.
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the image list Fig.1 Unknown, (2016). Sneak peek from our 250th anniversary collections for AW 2017/18. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BJkdLckA4FX/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere. Fig.2 Singh, B. (n.d.). Untitled image of Yorkshire Moors. [Photograph ]. Retrieved from http://www.lesouk.co/articles/virtual-sourcing-trips/joshuaellis-exquisite-yorkshire-cashmere. Fig.3 Unknown, (2016). Happy #stpatricksday! Take a peek at what’s fresh for #spring. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BDDokW_zJLL/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere. Fig.4 Unknown, (2016). Don’t these guys just make you feel happy that spring is finally here for us too? [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.instagram. com/p/BC8M1xMzJIx/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere. Fig.5 Singh, B. (n.d.)Untitled image of cashmere. [Photograph ]. Retrieved from http://www.lesouk.co/articles/virtual-sourcing-trips/joshua-ellis-exquisite-yorkshire-cashmere. Fig.6 Unknown, (2016). Always on trend - beautiful cashmere textures in classic black. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BIAVS13AuZV/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere. Fig.7 Unknown, (1964). Managing director David Huxley (front centre) with Joshua Ellis employees during a presentation ceremony in 1964. [Photograph]. Retrieved from http://www.examiner.co.uk/news/west-yorkshire-news/textilefirm-set-up-1767-12556926. Fig.8 Unknown, (n.d.). Batley Carr Mills. [Photograph ]. Retrieved from https:// joshuaellismills.wordpress.com/images/. Fig. 9 Unknown, (n.d.). Joshua Ellis. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.drapersonline.com/business-operations/supply-chain/joshua-ellisfrom-1767-to-the-future/7018592.article.and. Fig.10 Unknown, (2016). Thank you @collezionifashion for showcasing us and our new AW17/18 collection in the latest Collezioni Trends magazine! [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BKaXmihAogK/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere. Fig.11 Stewart, B. (2014). Untitled image of wool.[Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.bloglovin.com/blogs/a-well-traveled-woman-2611380/photo-2763649499. Fig.12 Dean, K. (2017). Mongolian cashmere goats. [Photograph]. Retrieved from http://faircashmere.com/galle. Fig.13 Unknown, (2016). Did you know that Joshua Ellis is one of only a few mills to weave 100% Camelhair fabric? [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www. instagram.com/p/BEgGCzLzJDy/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere. Fig.14 Moore, L. (n.d.). Johnny Cash. [Drawing ]. Retrieved from http://lesliemoore.net/section/435027-Drawings.html. Fig 15 Unknown, (2016).With the turn in the weather, something for slightly cooler days. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BFOtMjqTJKp/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere.
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Fig.16 Unknown, (2016). Sneak peek from our 250th anniversary collections for AW 2017/18. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BI1u5W0g010/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere. Fig.17 Unknown, (2017). Great to be out and about showing the archive to customers in Paris today to commence development for Winter 2018. [Photograph].Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BSBx-RoAZpe/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere. Fig.18 Britton, J. (2016). Untitled image of Joshua Ellis worker operating machinery. [Photograph ]. Retrieved from http://www.nomadatelier. co.uk/2016/02/26/joshua-ellis/. Fig.19 Britton, J. (2016). Untitled image of Joshua Ellis worker mending fabric. [Photograph]. Retrieved from http://www.nomadatelier.co.uk/2016/02/26/joshua-ellis/. Fig.20 Unknown, (2016). Sneak peek from our 250th anniversary collections for AW 2017/18. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BIcjw4Ygz2O/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere Fig.21 Unknown, (2016). This part of the process still amazes us every time - the transformation of the cashmere by brushing on the teasel gig. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BGMhfKOTJEg/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere. Fig.22 Ryan, C. Joshua Ellis design studio. [Photograph]. Retrieved from personal collection. Fig.23 Ryan, C. Fabric swatches. [Photograph]. Retrieved from personal collection. Fig.24 Ryan, C. Rolls of fabric. [Photograph]. Retrieved from personal collection. Fig.25 Ryan, C. Metal components. [Photograph]. Retrieved from personal collection. Fig.26 Ryan, C. Bundles of yarn. [Photograph]. Retrieved from personal collection. Fig.27 Ryan, C. The weaving process. [Photograph]. Retrieved from personal collection. Fig.28 Ryan, C. Made in England. [Photograph]. Retrieved from personal collection. Fig.29 Ryan, C. Machinery at work. [Photograph]. Retrieved from personal collection. Fig.30 Clark, M. (2017). The plaque unveiled by the Princess Royal to mark her visit to Joshua Ellis in Batley. [Photograph ]. Retrieved from http://www.examiner.co.uk/incoming/gallery/princess-royals-visit-joshua-ellis-12616059. Fig.31 Unknown, (2017). Wonderful to see Osaka through the trees from above. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/BNympzUBkjF/?taken-by=joshuaelliscashmere.
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acknowledgements All the quotes featured have been taken from the Joshua Ellis website. The historical information was also supplied from archive documents given to me by the company. I would also like to thank Liz Harper and Helena Leeming for their help in conducting and collating the staff interviews for this book.
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the end.
thankyou for reading.
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