Individualist Magazine

$20 €20

Spring Summer 2017

For Women By Women

INDIVIDUALIST

5

Individualist Magazine Issue 5 Spring Summer 2017

Founder and Creative Director Rafaella De Guzman Fashion Director Elsa Lobo Art Director Isabel Jimenez Production Manager Tatiana Hueck Managing Editor Caroline Lowe

CONTRIBUTORS Photographers Andrea Di Lello, Sierra Long, Patrick Meynard, Andrea Mora, Alejandro Rubí, Ana Santoni, Pedro Torres Artists Steven Eckert, Michelle Morin, Shani Tsfoni Makeup Artists Bluemercury Broughton Special Thanks To Inés Arimany, Lucia Marti, Alejandro Rubí, Monica Varela

Social Networks Instagram @individualistmagazine www.individualistmagazine.com Advertising and Inquiries info@individualistmagazine.com Printing Thirteen Bricks in Savannah, GA Individualist © 2016, the authors and On the cover: Alessa Reuffurth wears LOFT and Club Monaco, photographed by Andrea Di Lello in Savannah on April 27, 2017.

Back cover artwork: Sweeper, 2017, by Steven Eckert.

6

photographers. Reproduction of any part of this publication, including all logos, titles and graphic elements, is strictly prohibited without prior permission from the publishers.

All rights reserved.

Shani Tsfoni Sunday Sketches 1, 2017

7

Steven Eckert Four Sessions, 2016

Editor’s Letter

“Polished”- retro and dated connotations bubble up to the mind’s surface- the image of a perfectlycoiffed 1950’s housewife or an 80’s urban doyenne, projecting patent femininity through manicured nails and matching shoes and handbags, in the same way that the shiny surface of a stone belies the slow tumult of the tumbling and grinding required to achieve that state.

Today’s women are in control of their existence, not in an all-encompassing, complete way, but in a manner that leaves them comfortable within their own presence, and open and accepting of changes and ready to take advantage of new opportunities. They are individuals captaining their journeys. Polish in the modern sense is not about perfection, but about reconciling perfection with reality.

In this issue, we take a look at some of these women and how females in general are portrayed in 2017.

Caroline Lowe, Editor

9

Contents

14

Sunset of Your Love Make the most of your evening hours with a simple but relaxing routine.

34

Applied Sciences Technology isn’t always pretty- but these speakers satisfy our desire for both form and function.

40

Woman of the Hour Fashion designer Abi Lierhiemer stands on the threshold of a promising career, and speaks to Individualist about her senior collection.

46

Tabula Rasa A pure white outfit provides a blank canvas for experimentation with sculptural jewelry.

64

Alessa Model and actress Alessa Reuffurth talks to Individualist about the nature of performing and shares some of her favorite things.

80

The Sun Also Rises Summer brings long days, short nights, and plenty of sophisticated swimwear choices.

10

An Issue Inspired by Modern Polish

104

Lucia Jewelry designer Lucia Marti talks to Individualist about collaboration and the creative process.

110

Museum Studies Simple, structured pieces and architectural jewelry make a masterpiece of an outfit.

130

Sport Mode Blur the lines bewteen athletic and day wear in pieces that work for both.

146

Splendor in the Grass Romantic ruffles and lace add a hint Victorian propriety to spring.

167

The Male Perspective Photographer Alejandro RubĂ­ offers a different view on the Individualist woman.

11

INDIVIDUALIST

Individualist Magazine Issue 5 Spring Summer 2017

An Issue Inspired by Modern Polish.

Perfection is a polished collection of errors.

Mario Benedetti

5 12

Sunset Your of Love

Photography by Alejandro RubĂ­ and Pedro Torres Studio shots by Ana Santoni

As the sun starts to dip under the crests of the city skyline and the ambient light fades to a golden shimmer, the modern woman begins her nightly routine. A simple ritual cleanses the mental and physical palate of the day, allowing time for meditation and contemplation. A spate of minimal products can do wonders to relieve the stresses that the hustle of modern life can impart, leaving one refreshed and renewed for the day ahead.

14

15

On the left, Huile Prodigieuse dry oil by Nuxe. On the right, Eclat Naturel repairing creme by Leonor Greyl. Previous page: Grace wears her own slip

16

17

18

Grace wears pajamas by J.Crew and bra by Cosabella.

Opposite page: Grace wears her own slip

19

Pillow spray by This Works. Opposite page: Grace wears pajamas

by J.Crew and bra by Cosabella

20

21

22

23

Tea by Paromi. Opposite page: Grace wears her own slip

24

25

Hairbrush by Mason Pearson. Opposite page: Grace wears pajamas by J.Crew and bra by Cosabella

26

27

Grace wears her own slip. Opposite page: Grace wears pajamas

by J.Crew.

28

29

Eau Thermale spray by Avenè

30

Body brush by Hydrea

31

Cleanser by Eve Lom

32

Grace wears pajamas by J.Crew.

Model: Grace Rokela

33

Applied Sciences

Photography by Tatiana Hueck

In the modern world, technology is both a welcome addition and an unavoidable intrusion, and often lacking the aesthetic pleasures of the analog age. These speakers by Sonos balance technological capability with design-driven appearance.

34

35

Play:1 wireless speakers by Sonos

36

37

38

39

Woman of the Hour 40

Photography by Caroline Lowe Words by Caroline Lowe

41

The last few weeks of college are as formative as any in life. Perched on the precipice of adulthood, designer Abi Lierhiemer sits down to discuss her senior collection, “Thrive.”

CL: How long have you been working on this collection?

AL: For me, it’s been a full year. I started paying attention to things I was seeing back when I studied abroad in Hong Kong, in winter 2016. So I studied abroad there, and after the quarter finished, my mom and my brother flew out to Hong Kong, helped me move out, and then we went to mainland China and visited the orphanage from where I was adopted. That was the first time I had been back since I was adopted. That was a whole experience in itself. We were in China for a week, and that’s when I decided that that would be the subject of my senior collection. I had been visually documenting- taking pictures, videos- the entire trip and the entire time I was in Hong Kong, because I was so inspired by the landscape there. That’s when it really started and I kind of knew. Ever since then, throughout the spring quarter and over the summer, I started to really piece things together, and start the process book in the summer. So it’s been almost a full year that I knew that was going to be my subject. It’s crazy.

CL: How does it feel to have this project finally come to fruition?

AL: It’s a great feeling. Oh my gosh! It’s the perfect amount of time, because it needed this much time to come to this stage and be fully ready, but it didn’t need more time than that. And now I have done it, and it feels great, and I think that the concept was well executed, but I’m ready for what’s next. You never want to be, “Now I’m done forever, and this is the best work I ever did,” no, you want to keep creating.

But I’m so glad I got the full year to make it what it needed to be and get the time that it needed.

CL: So you’re happy with how it turned out?

AL: Yes. I’m very happy. I love it, I love every aspect of it.

CL: What was it like visiting the orphanage?

AL: It was very, for lack of a better word, emotional. I didn’t cry or anything- it wasn’t really “sad” emotional, but it was a lot to take in. You’re physically there, first of all I had never been to mainland China, which is very, very different from hong Kong. Hong Kong is very westernized, mainland China, especially in Hangzhou, it’s different. It’s not ruralit’s a big city of about a million people, but that’s small for a Chinese city. And the orphanage itself is a governmentfunded orphanage, so it’s not very nice. The lights were dim and a lot of the children there were disabled, because it’s an orphanage for disabled children. And I was actually considered disabled because I was lactose intolerant at the time, which is considered a disability. And if I hadn’t been, I wouldn’t have been there, and I wouldn’t have been adopted, and I wouldn’t have had my life. And I grew out of that lactose intolerance when I was 7, but because if that, I was categorized as disabled. And if I hadn’t had that, then I would have grown up normal and healthy and I would have gone straight into working. Which is so crazy, because think of how different my life would have been. So we went back there, and it was really cool- I got to teach some art classes to some of the older children, I got to hold a lot of the babies, but it was very sad, because a lot of them have very significant disabilities. Some of them can’t walk, so they’re in wheelchairs and the orphanage just does not have the money to help these kids, so a lot of them just live out their life expectancy there. And this was a place where they can be taken care of until then, and that was really hard for me to understand. Because if they aren’t adopted and they don’t get medical help, they’re basically just there until they pass away. That aspect of it was really hard for me.

CL: What inspired you about Hong Kong and China to make this collection?

AL: Visually, that was where I got a lot of the colors and the textiles, and the patterns that I used. I use a lot of patterns- I have a polka dot and I used a tradition floral, stripes. I actually sourced a lot of the silks I used from my birthplace in Hangzhou. I actually sourced from Hong Kong, China, Cambodia, and the US. So that kind of goes along with the concept as well. But visually and color wise, it’s a lot from Hong Kong, because it’s very colorful there. A lot from the buildings and also a lot from the mountainous landscape. And the concept really goes into the story.

CL: What about the shapes of your pieces?

Was that also inspired by China and Hong Kong?

AL: Yes, that was inspired by China, too- there are some traditional kimono shapes and there are some classic American sportswear pieces- not activewear, but tailored pants and things like that. And a lot of different layers. I have a pair of leggings under a tulle skirt, with a silk dress on top, and then a puffer over it. So that’s four pieces just in that one look. And it’s kind of a mixture of all of those things, because the collection is a mixture of me, basically. I look Chinese, I am Chinese, ethnically, but I’m an American. So I wanted that to come through in the collection.

CL: Do you speak Cantonese or Mandarin at all?

AL: I don’t!

CL: So what was that like while you were living there, where people see you and expect you to speak the language?

AL: In Hong Kong, people would come up to me speaking Cantonese all the time, because they thought I knew the language, which was hard, and then when we were in mainland China, where they speak Mandarin, we had a friend who was a translator for us. Before I transferred to SCAD from the University of Denver, I actually took Chinese for a year there. I actually loved it and I wish I could have kept it up, but that was all that I’ve done.

CL: What was your major before you transferred?

AL: Mathematics. I was a double major in mathematics and studio arts. I love math and I’m very good at it, so I think that helps me with fashion as well. I love that aspect of it, so I think it was perfect for me finding it.

CL: How did your parents feel about you making that transition to SCAD? AL: My mom, well, and my dad- well, here’s another part of the concept. My father passed away when I was 16 from colon cancer, during my junior year in high school. He and my mom always encouraged my artistic side in high school, so I took all the AP art classes and that sort of thing. I never thought I could do anything with it, so I thought that when I went to college, I would just do math. My mom had even told me in high school to apply to SCAD and to come here, but I said, “No,” and I wanted to do the traditional route, because I think that’s what I should do, and she said, “Okay.” And after a year, I came to her, because I knew it wasn’t right,

42

On fashion design

Fashion design is a lot harder than it seems.

And if you’re chasing fashion just for the glamour and the 15 minutes of fame, you won’t find what you’re looking for and you’ll be spit out so fast.You won’t survive. and she knew, and she looked at me and said, “Okay, are you ready to go to SCAD?” And we went down here and it was perfect. So it was kind of crazy how that happened, too. So she’s always been very supportive of me coming here. And all of SCAD, too, because I studied abroad in Lacoste and Hong Kong, because she wanted me to go to both campuses, and take full advantage of every opportunity.

CL: What about your siblings? Were any of them adopted?

AL: No- I actually have three siblings and I’m the only adopted one. So, my parents are white, and I have an older brother who is 25, an older sister who is 23, then me, and then I have a little sister, too. And they’re all biological. After my older sister was born, my parents decided to adopt me, and then after they brought me back they decided to have one more child. So that’s all four of us.

CL: How did they decide they wanted to adopt?

AL: They said that they were in church one day, and they just felt like they needed to go to China and adopt a child. And that was it, so they did it. I grew up Christian, but I’m not a super religious person, but I do have faith and those convictions, and I believe that was part of it as well, because, while there was planning and things that they had to do, it was really just that my parents felt strongly enough that they just did it. And it’s kind of crazy.

CL: It’s almost impossible to look at how everything turned out for you and not think that there’s some sort of higher power guiding all of this.

AL: Exactly. And especially at that time- I was born in 1994, and they adopted me in 1995- that was before cell phones and computers, and the Chinese government has changed dramatically since that time. Now it’s a lot harder to adopt children actually, but it was still a difficult process for my parents. They had to wait nine months, they were sending letters back and forth, they only got one printed out picture of me, which was a terrible grainy picture, and they just had to go off of the descriptions, “your child is disabled- lactose intolerant,” and then there was a waiting period of nine to twelve months and then you actually go there. It was all a faith-based thing. There’s also a paper trail, because, again, this was all before the internet, so my mom has all of those documents, which is really cool. And all of that makes me feel that much more connected to my

2

1

3

1. A silk-trimmed sweater and trousers from Lierhiemer’s collection.

2. A ruffled top and matching trousers with decorative hangtags handmade by Lierhiemer.

3. Lineup, notes, and fabric swatches for “Thrive.”

4. Lierhiemer’s collection was created in memory of her father, Chris Lierhiemer, who passed away from colon cancer in 2011.

5. A top from Lierhiemer’s collection- featuring layered fabrics and textures accented with athletic details.

43

5 4

concept, because it’s really my life story up until this point, and every little part of it connected, which was interesting. And I guess my parents weren’t bothered by my being lactose intolerant.

CL: Had your parents ever been to China before?

AL: They had not. My grandparents had, but it was the first time for my parents. And they were both in their late 20s, so they were still pretty young. Not that much older than me, and they had already had two children, and now they were just going to China to adopt another one.

CL: How did you come up with “Thrive,” the name of your collection?

AL: I was in Atlanta fall quarter, where I had evacuated during Hurricane Matthew, and I was antique shopping.

I saw on this old, rusted piece of metal- I don’t even know what it was, really- and on one side, it just said “thrive.” And it just clicked, right there. And that was it. I knew once I had put a word to it, I could build things up visually off of that point. And I also liked that it wasn’t an uncommon word, but I had never really thought about it until it just appeared. And it was perfect. It also goes back to when I was first thinking of my concept and Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs. When you get to the top, you’re no longer just surviving, you’re thriving and you’re using what you have been given and what you’ve worked for in this world, and you’re hopefully giving it back to others. So that tied into it as well.

CL: And that’s also representative of where you are in your life.

AL: Yes. I think I’m still working to get there, but I really think that no matter what circumstances you are given in life, you can thrive. It’s a happy story in the end. When it starts off, people think my concept- about being adopted and growing up in the US- that it has sad connotations, but it’s actually a very happy story, a success story I would say. And I want to share that and thank all the people who have helped me along the way.

CL: Have you always been interested in fashion design?

AL: No. I had no idea that it was really a thing. You know, a lot of people don’t really think about where their clothes come from or what goes into making them, and I actually came to SCAD thinking that I would be an architecture major, but when I got here, I started in fashion marketing. But I really did not like fashion marketing at all, and I really missed making things with my hands. I work well with others, but I can’t do a group project for every project. I really missed innovating with materials and things like that. So I switched over to fashion design. I kept the minor in fashion marketing, though, because I had already taken the classes. It was perfect though, because I got to try out fashion design in the intro classes, and then just learned everything I could learn. I interned twice, and I learned so much during those about the industry.

CL: Had you ever done sewing or anything like that before?

AL: Nope, never. I learned to sew here, I learned about the industry, but I had never done any of that before.

You meet a lot of kids at SCAD who went to fashion

44

high schools or know how to sew, but not me. The difference I see between me and some of my peers is for every single class, whether it’s Apparel I or Intro to Fashion, even those seemingly insignificant classes, I took very seriously with the garments I was making, so that I would be able to do a final photo shoot with them. My first official photoshoot was with my Apparel I dress, and it turned out amazing, and I though, “This is awesome, and I can use this in my portfolio,” even though it was just Apparel I. You don’t have to wait until you get to Apparel III or to Senior to have a portfolio, you should be building it up the entire time youre here. I just kept doing that, and I tried to stay very active. I went to Lacoste the first summer at SCAD, then the second summer I interned at Phillip Lim, and last summer I was at Under Armour. Making the most of that time while you’re a student is very important, because you take what you learn in those experiences and you bring it back to school and you can apply it and go back and forth. That’s the best way to inform yourself.

CL: That’s amazing that you built up that skill set so quickly in order to produce such quality work.

AL: Yeah, I worked very hard at it. A lot of it comes naturally, too.

CL: What do you think is the most difficult thing about fashion design?

AL: Coming up with something new. I think a lot of people would say that, but it’s hard, because we just reinvent the wheel and that’s what a lot of designers do anyway, especially in the industry, where designers are expected to come up with somethin new so many times every year, that a lot of designers just don’t. They’re just taking things from older collections and just changed details like fabrics. That’s what you have to do, really, to make money. So as an artist, you’re given no time, and less slack in that way, because a lot of people don’t realize that we are creating new things that take a lot of time, but they’re forced into production and sold so quickly that a lot of them turn out really badly, and we waste a lot of materials, and time, energy, and money.

Fashion design is a lot harder than it seems. And if you’re chasing fashion just for the glamour and the 15 minutes of fame, you won’t find what you’re looking for and you’ll be spit out so fast. You won’t survive.

45

Tabula Rasa

Photography by Patrick Meynard

An all-white ensemble makes an ideal blank slate to showcase architectural jewelry. These artful statement pieces from up-and-coming designer Monica Varela elevate even the simplest of outfits into showstoppers with their otherworldly quality.

46

47

Emme wears top by Club Monaco and rings by Monica Varela.

Previous page: Emme wears top by Club Monaco and rings by Monca Varela

48

Emme wears vest and tank by Club Monaco and ring and necklace by Monica Varela

49

50

On the left, earrings by Monica Varela. On the right, pendant

by Monica Varela. Opposite page: Emme wears ring by Monica Varela

51

Top by Club Monaco and choker and ring by Monica Varela.

Opposite page: Emme wears rings by Monica Varela

52

53

54

Emme wears choker by Monica Varela

55

Rings by Monica Varela

56

57

58

On the left, rings by Monica Varela. On the right, earrings by Monica Varela. Opposite page: Emme wears vest and tank by Club Monaco, and necklace and ring by Monica Varela

59

60

Emme wears top by Club Monaco and ring and choker by Monica Varela. Opposite page: Emme wears top by Club 61 Monaco and ring by Monica Varela

Emme wears vest by Club Monaco and ring and necklace by 62 Monica Varela. Opposite page: Emme wears top by Club Monaco and ring and choker by Monica Varela

Model: Emme Metry

63

Alessa Photography by Andrea Di Lello Product shots by Ana Santoni Words by Caroline Lowe

Some women are remarkable in their ability to convey poise and ability simultaneously.

Their grace is immediately evident when they enter a room- something in the way they carry themselves conveys to observers that they possess mystery deeper than what lies on the surface. Alessa Reuffurth is one of those women. The model and actress is also bilingual and an accomplished distance runner. Reuffurth comes to Savannah from the small town of Eschwege, Germany, where her ebullient personality was stifled by the confines of a parochial life. Since arriving in the US, Reuffurth has burst onto the scene- appearing in student films, fashion and art photography, and walking in the SCAD fashion show.

64

65

Alessa wears jacket by LOFT. Previous page: Alessa wears jacket by 66 LOFT and trousers by Club Monaco

CL: Where are you from?

AR: I’m from Eschwege, Germany, which is a small town in central Germany. The closest major city is Frankfurt.

CL: How did you come to SCAD? AR: I just wanted to go to America. I was an athlete, I ranI still run- and it’s kind of a common thing that you go to college in America so that you have that new experience.

So I was recruited. I also wanted to go to a warm place because Germany is so cold.

CL: Had you ever visited Savannah before you enrolled?

AR: No, I had never been to Savannah before. I had been to the States before coming here for school, but only as a tourist. We went to Florida, California, and New York City. I loved visiting here, and I always wanted to come to America for school.

CL: How does Savannah differ from Germany?

AR: It’s warm. And it’s very artsy because of the students, which I like because you can do whatever you want to and you’re not being judged. I’m from a very small town, so it’s nice that you can do whatever you want to do and it’s fine.

You can see that there are so many different cultures, and everyone brings something with them from their country and it’s very interesting.

CL: What is your major?

AR: Performing arts. I also minor in dance because that works with performing arts. I actually came for fashion design, but I realized that what I actually like is just playing with clothes, shopping and the like. Then I went to the Performing Arts building, and saw all the energy, and creativity in the building, as well as the teamwork, and I really liked that. I tried it out- I started with improv, which was nice because I couldn’t really speak the language, but in improv, sometimes just your body language can create something- a scene with that, so you don’t even have to use words. So that was nice, and challenging.

CL: What was that transition like, coming to SCAD and the US? AR: Learning the language was tough, but manageable.

Overall, it’s been a very interesting experience. I appreciate that I got the opportunity to get to know a new culture,

67

especially one that is so different.

CL: Was the language barrier difficult? Had you taken English back home?

AR: I had taken some English in Germany, but living here and speaking with Americans is very different. There are a lot of expressions and idioms that you really don’t learn in school, and that can be difficult, but I think improv and performing arts really helped with that. I think language is more than just translating words. It’s tied closely to the culture and you have to be in a country to truly understand it.

CL: Had you been interested in theater and performing arts back home?

AR: No, not really. My best friend and I would make parodies of music videos, but we were definitely being judged for that really hard! We would do whatever was in the charts, just listening to songs and then do something goofy with it.

CL: Do you miss home?

AR: (Laughs.) Not really.

CL: Do you want to stay in the States?

AR: Yeah, definitely if I can.

CL: What sort of things do you do as a performing arts major?

AR: We learn a lot of techniques, but you actually have to do work outside, depending on what you want to focus on.

I want to do film and television, so outside of class, I try to audition as much as possible, and to get into senior films, especially, as well as all the smaller projects. Modeling is helpful as well, because it helps you become more aware of your body language. It’s a different type of being in front of the camera because you’re obviously aware of it, whereas in performing arts, the camera is just there, but you have to pretend like you don’t even know it. Modeling helps with performing arts just to get comfortable in front the camera.

CL: What is the audition process like? Is that as scary as it sounds?

AR: It depends! It depends- yes and no. If I’m just auditioning in front of other students, then, I’m like, “Okay, this is going to be fine,” but if it’s like a big thing, then, I do get nervous.

I think a little bit of nervousness is good, because it pushes you to take it seriously.

CL: What’s ben your favorite show or performance that you’ve acted in?

AR: Hmm… I don’t know. I can only say that I like challenges. So if I go on set, I obviously already know my lines, but if there’s still something that I’m not sure about… maybe a physical challenge. I don’t want to pick one, because they’re all fun!

CL: Have you done a lot of work outside of SCAD? AR: In the States, I can’t because of my visa. I don’t have an agent for acting.

CL: What about running?

AR: That’s how I was recruited to come to SCAD. I mainly do long distance running, so cross country in the fall and track in the spring. This track season, I was actually injured, but I did do one road race- a half marathon. If it weren’t for this injury, I would have been focusing on the marathon. I have never run one before, and the time I ran the half-marathon was the first time I had run that distance, too. But I really liked it.

CL: What does running mean to you?

AR: It gives me a mental break and it makes me happy.

Running is a sport that you really get out of it what you put into it. The competition is always fair and winning is truly the best feeling in the world.

CL: What has being part of the SCAD Cross Country and Track teams been like? Has it been helpful or meaningful to you being part of a community like that?

AR: I love running in a team and sharing a passion together as a community. College-level running focuses on the individual as well as on the performance of the team as a whole, which is different than it was when I was running in high school. Paying this much attention to the team results and dynamics was new for me, but very exciting. My teammates and coaches push me every day, so that has made me a better runner. It is also way more fun to achieve goals together.

CL: How do you stay committed to running?

AR: I just like it, honestly. I don’t think there are any runners who keep running without actually loving it.

There are many other sports you can play to stay fit that are much easier.

CL: What inspires you?

AR: The ocean is so inspiring to me. The smell, sound and the just the view- it’s so calming and idyllic, but still powerful and unpredictable and unpredictable at the same time. I go sailing in Greece in the summer with my family, and I love being on the water like that. It’s such a great memory to revisit, too, when I’m missing them.

CL: What actors do you really admire?

AR: I love Meryl Streep. She’s so talented, and she’s made great choices in her career in terms of roles. She’s in a really good place right now, and I think she’s a great example of how talent can transcend any gender or age bias in the industry.

68

On women

I just think that women are so powerful.

We have grace and beauty, but at the same time, we also have that underlying strength and toughness.

CL: What are you hoping to do after you graduate from school?

AR: I can’t wait to want to move to Los Angeles and start working in the industry. In ten years, I hope I’ll be there, acting on a TV show or something like that. That would be my dream.

CL: How would you describe your personal style? Has it changed since coming to SCAD? AR: It’s always been evolving. Your identity changes throughout your life and I think clothes are part of that.

Especially as an actor, I change roles all the time, so I can really appreciate how clothing can be a part of that persona. Changing your clothes can help you slip into that new identity and set your mind to your part.

CL: What do you look for in your own clothing?

AR: Quality and comfort are very key for me. I do follow trends to a certain extent, but it’s more about trying out what you might see other people wearing to see if you like it. Following trends can be a fun experiment, but it shouldn’t drive you.

Alessa wears jacket by LOFT and trousers by Club Monaco

69

70

Alessa wears dress by H&M

1

2

1. Panama travel diary by Smythson of Bond Street.

2. My favorite artist is Fairfield Porter. I love the bright simplicity and Americana that his paintings exude.

3. PS1 leather handbag by Proenza Schouler.

4. Silk bandana by Manipuri.

5. My sister gave me these earrings for my birthday a few years ago. I wear them almost everyday- they’ve become my signature.

3

4

71

5

6

8

7

6. Sunglasses by Han Kjøbenhavn.

7. Reading is an easy way to improve my English. My favorites are American literary classics and anything about fashion and style.

8. Printed silk scarf by Liberty London.

9. My mom gave me this necklace from Turkey before I came to the States. The evil eye is supposed to protect me from bad energy.

9

10. My friend is an accessories designer and she made this fur clutch for me- I love the colors. Having friends make things for you is definitely one of the perks of attending art school.

11. Alexander McQueen is my favorite designer. His runway shows were always so theatrical, and really spoke to different ideas about female beauty.

10

72

11

Alessa wears jacket by LOFT and trousers by Club Monaco

73

74

Alessa wears dress by H&M. Opposit page: Alessa wears trousers

by Zara 75

76

Alessa wears blouse by Zara and trousers by Club Monaco.

Opposite page: blouse by Zara

77

Alessa wears trousers by Zara

78

Steven Eckert You Can Get Past This, 2017

79

The Sun Also Rises

Photography by Sierra Long

As the mercury rises and the days get longer, we long to shed the last remaining dregs of our winter skin and head for the water.The sun on our face and the wind in our hair- there is nothing like a day at the beach.The feeling of sand between the toes and the surf gently lapping at the ankles connects the soul to the earth in an utterly complete way. We dive right in, outfitted in modern, yet elegant, swimwear.

80

81

Maria wears sweater by Club Monaco and maillot by Urban Outfitters. Previous page: Maria wears maillot 82

by Urban Outfitters. Maria wears her own earrings throughout.

83

Maria wears swimsuit by Solid & Striped and dress by Madewell. Opposite page: Maria wears maillot by Urban 84 Outfitters and sweater by Free People

85

Maria wears swimsuit by Solid & Striped and dress by Madewell

86

87

88

This page and opposite: Maria wears maillot by Urban Outfitters

89

90

91

Maria wears maillot by Urban Outfitters. Opposite page: Maria wears maillot by Urban Outfitters and scarf

by Zara. Previous page: Maria wears maillot by Urban Outfitters, sweater by Club Monaco, and hat by Panama Hat for J.Crew.

92

93

orem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed elementum diam a dapibus tristique orem ipsum dolor sit amet,orem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit.

94

95

96

Opposite page: Maria wears sweater by Zara and swimsuit by Solid & Striped. Previous page: Maria wears swimsuit by Solid & Striped

97

98

Maria wears sweater by Zara and pants by the Hanger.

Opposite page: Maria wears sweater by Zara and swimsuit by Marysia

99

Maria wears sweater by Zara and swimsuit by Solid & Striped. Model: Maria Paula Otero

100

101

Michelle Morin Elysian Dream, 2017

Lucia 104

Jewelry is one of the most personal items in one’s wardrobe. Intimate because they are worn so close to the skin, but also in their particular meaning to the wearer. Puerto Rican designer Lucia Marti’s pieces convey an artful sophistication and the influences of her life and journey.

Photography by contributor Javier Asturias Styling by contributor Inés Arimany Interview by Caroline Lowe Photo of Lucia by contributor José Maria Gutierrez

105

CL: What is your major?

LM: I’m a junior, but I’m staying an extra year to finish my minor in accessory design. It’s a lot of work, but it’s okay. I love it. I wish I could do a double major, but jewelry is really my main focus, and accessories are more of a hobby for now.

CL: Have you always been interested in design?

LM: Yes, since I was super young. I really admired it.

At first, I didn’t think I had that much talent, but I went to a summer program at RISD the summer between my junior and senior years in high school, and that’s when I realized, “Okay, I think I want to do this for a living and start getting into it.” So I started looking at schools and SCAD had the best jewelry program in the country, so I thought, “That’s where I have to be.” And here I am now!

CL: Was it a big change, coming from Puerto Rico?

LM: Not really- I travelled a lot and back home we’re American citizens so it’s pretty chill to travel back and forth between the US and PR, so it was okay. Living here is different- very different- Savannah is such a unique place that even Americans from the continental states have trouble adjusting to such a different place.

I knew I loved jewelry design, and as a girl, you know, we all like jewelry and shiny things. My mom really loves it and she kind of passed that on to me. With that influence, I was thinking maybe I could jewelry design as a career, so I started with that looked up summer programs to see if that was what I wanted to do as my bachelor’s degree. So that was kind of like the test it out beforehand, because I didn’t want to get here and then suddenly not like it and go through the hassle of switching majors. That program was really the defining moment when I decided, yes, this is what I want.

CL: What are your inspirations for jewelry design?

LM: I am very inspired by architecture- I love architecture, and a lot of my family members are architects. Zaha

Hadid is amazing, so unreal. It’s so sad that she’s gone.

CL: Was your mom one of your main style influences?

LM: Definitely- my mom is very chill and very laid back, but she really knows a lot- She’s always taught me how to shop and everything. When you’re very young, your mom is your guide for that sort of thing. And my mom is a really smart shopper- she wouldn’t go into a store and just buy anything, she really thinks about stuff and with jewelry, she’s very knowledgeable, she knows metal, different cuts. Whenever we would go into a jewelry store at the mall, she would always impress the salespeople with how much she knew about the pieces, and I would think, “I love that, I wish I could do that.”

CL: Does she wear any of your pieces?

LM: No, not for now, because I have them all here in Savannah. I usually make one of each design, I’m not making a lot for now. I wish I had more time to make something for her, but for now I’m just making one piece at a time.

CL: How long does it usually take you to make one piece?

LM: It really depends- these earrings didn’t take that much time because they’re pretty simple, but sometimes for a trickier piece, it can be longer. It depends on what metal you’re working with and how elaborate the piece is. I try to make things pretty fast, I don’t like to spend a really long time on one single piece, because it can get kind of boring. You want to get the piece finished.

CL: What’s your favorite material to work in?

LM: For now it’s silver. I really like precious metals, but I’m sticking with silver for now, because it’s the cheapest out of all of those. It’s the one I can buy and use. I would love to work with gold at some point, or maybe plated.

CL: How does it feel selling your work or giving it away to people, especially after spending so much time working on an individual piece?

LM: It’s hard! When I make pieces, I get so attached.

For the jewelry department trunk show, everyone is making things, but for now, since I’m only making one piece at a time, I keep them. I take pictures and I bring them with me. But eventually, when I have more than one of each, I probably won’t be as attached and I’ll be able to sell it. But for now, I really like to keep the ones that I have. I understand how some people can do this for the money, but for now, I don’t have the time to make multiples of each piece, and I’m not mass-producing, so I like to keep them. It does give the jewelry department some edge, being able to sell pieces, which is really fun.

CL: What’s your design process like?

LM: I’m trying to work on that, actually. Because right now, sometimes I just come up with something and then I make it, or sometimes I actually look for a theme, and I try to get as much research as possible- I’m very visual

Basie wears necklace and earrings by Lucia Marti with her own shirt and studs

106

so I try to look up pictures that go along with that theme, and get inspiration from that. These earrings actually started with a competition that had a theme, so I made earrings for that, and then built a little collection of of it. The theme was innovative spaces, which was fun- I wanted to play with movement, so these earrings, I can switch how they’re positioned. So I started looking up interesting installation art, where the artist invites the audience to play with the art and interact with it, so that was a fun theme because I got to play with my jewelry and make it more interactive.

CL: Do you sketch things out beforehand?

LM: Yes- I try to sketch it out and have all the measurements settled, always thinking about whether an earring is too heavy. You have to pay attention to how much material you’re using so the earring isn’t pulling at your earlobe. It depends on the piece. With a ring or a bracelet, you can go a little crazy, but with earrings you have to be more careful in your proportions- how long are they going to be, etc. Because you wear them close to your face. It takes more planning. It depends on the piece, and everyone has their own process. I usually sketch, them cut everything up, get all my materials lined up, and start soldering after that.

CL: Do you have a favorite piece?

LM: I’m really liking these earrings- they’re my most recent piece. I think everytime I finish something, it becomes my new favorite. I keep evolving, and every time I make something I want to wear it! I make it to please myself- it’s my jewelry, I don’t want to make something that I wouldn’t want to wear. I wear everything I make, and I’ll loan it out for shoots and things like that, but I really like for people to enjoy what I enjoy.

CL: So you’re the person that you design for?

LM: I’ve never thought of it that way before, but yeah. I feel like a designer makes clothes that they’ll enjoy. I’m a woman, and obviously I wear jewelry, so I always wear my pieces. It’s hard to separate my personal style from what I’m making. I wouldn’t want to make something I wouldn’t wear- that doesn’t make sense to me. Why would I want to be an artist and not make pieces for me? As an artist, you’re your own best advertisement and advocate.

CL: Have you ever really hurt yourself with the tools or soldering or anything like that?

LM: Oh my god. If you look at my hands, you can see the calluses. I’ve been working like crazy recently, and when you’re working quickly, you can hurt yourself more easily. I try to be careful, though. I’ve been working on a collaboration with a senior fashion designer, Stephanie Alvarez. I making some bags for her. Her collection is inspired by India- the spiritual and glamorous aspects of Indian culture. She went to visit this past summer, and when she showed me her pictures, I wasn’t sure what I could do for her, because the style she was going

107

for was much more ornate than what I usually do. But I’m so excited about it, and so proud of how her collection has come out. I made the bags for her collection. I soldered the base with sheets of nickel silver and covered it in a metal mesh, so they’re see through, which is really neat. I also lined the inside with leather, because I wanted them to look nice and pretty, even when you open it. They pop open with magnets, so it’s easy to open.

CL: Do you like collaborating with other people?

LM: I love it. That’s probably my favorite part of SCAD. My first collaboration was with a senior when I was in my freshman year. During the program at RISD, I learned a lot of basic jewelry techniques, so when I came to SCAD, I already had some pieces made, even though I didn’t even start my major classes until sophomore year. But I met her, and I happened to be wearing one of my pieces at the Oscar de la Renta event here, so I was all dressed up. She saw my ring that I was wearing, and insisted that we do a collaboration together. We didn’t even know each other at the time! I was like, “Are you serious?” She was trusting a freshman to collaborate with her on her senior collection, which is a pretty big leap of faith. We’re very good friends now, and working together was amazing. I tell her now, “I can’t believe you trusted me to do this for you!” It was unbelievable. She was working on her collection and I was really working for her. So we would discuss how many and what kind of pieces she needed, and I gave her the pieces I already had completed. It took a while for it to even sink in that she was asking me for this! I kept asking to make sure she was serious and for real… It was unbelievable, though, and I’ve worked with two other fashion students on collaborations since. It’s a lot of work, but it’s crazy in a good way.

CL: Are there any similarities between your process for accessory and jewelry design?

LM: In the future, I would really like to make accessories out of metals and jewelry materials. So what I did for Stephanie, I had been thinking about doing for a long time, I just never thought I would get the chance to do it while still at SCAD. I really like Judith Lieber, because her bags are a cool convergence of jewelry and accessories. Her style is very different from mine, but I like the concept. Her bags are like jewelry pieces- that you can put things in! So I had been thinking about that, but I thought I would wait until after I graduated to actually make my own version of that. But after Stephanie told me about her trip and about a metal bag that she had seen, I started to think, “Maybe I can do that.” So I talked that over with her, and she loved the idea, but then she kind of gave me free reign to work on my own.

Her collection has a lot of beading, and the polygonal shape of the bags is based on the shape of some of her embellishments and screen-prints. The detail in her collection is unreal. And I am pretty minimalistic, but because her pieces are so detailed, the minimal bags actually work really well with her collection. I was hesitant to collaborate with her, just because her work is so elaborate, and the clothes don’t even need jewelry.

LM: I really like Paula Mendoza, the jewelry designer. I really love Proenza- those are clothes that I would really love to buy.

CL: What do you want to be doing in 10 years?

LM: My first few years after school, I would probably work under someone, just to get the experience and the practice But in 10 years, I would really like to be doing my own thing. My parents are very supportive, and my dad is very much for me coming

108

On wearing her own pieces

Why would I want to be an artist and not make pieces for me? As an artist, you’re your own best advertisement and advocate. back to Puerto Rico, and coming home to do my own thing.

I like Paula Mendoza because she works with single moms in Colombia, where she has her studio, so I really like her business ethics, and I would love to be able to do something like that in Puerto Rico, especially with the situation there now.

I love the states, and I would love to live here at some point, but I feel like it’s so important for me to go back and be able to give back to and support my home. My dad is very invested in that- if we can help our country in some way, we should. But I never say for sure what’s going to happen in the future because you really never know. Puerto Rico is such a great place, but the government is so corrupt. So I really hope that gets resolved sometime soon.

CL: How would you describe the modern woman?

LM: If I could pick a person, I would say, Solange Knowles.

She’s gorgeous, and she has her own essence, I don’t feel like she is trying to mimic anyone. I love her. And she’s killing it.

Even as Beyoncé’s little sister, she still made a name for herself outside of her sister. And Beyoncé’s so mainstream now and becoming a mom, she’s just focused on different things, but Solange isn’t like that.

CL: How would you describe your personal style? Has it changed since coming to SCAD? LM: I come from an island, so I love summer- dressing in all white, very simple pieces. I’m very low on prints. I like to wear light clothes. My style hasn’t really changed, except for trends, which you adapt to your own style slowly. But my essence has stayed the same. Like I’m trying to keep my hair curly, I used to straighten my hair all the time, but I’m trying to own my curls now, and stay genuine to who I really am. I love straight hair, but things like that, and not wearing too much makeupI’m really trying to embrace who I am. It’s not really my style that’s changed, because I still like classic, modern pieces, but being more natural in terms of beauty is something that I’m working on. And being here, in such a creative environment, it can be kind of intimidating how well other people dress. And sometimes, I just don’t have time to spend forever, and I just need to get out of the house. But lately, I’ve been trying to make time for dressing well. In this industry, how you present yourself can be so important, you always have to look good, and you have to communicate your own style. And you don’t want to look like you tried too hard. It;s all about balance. I wish I had more time to try to look nice, because it just makes you feel better.

Basie wears earrings by Lucia Marti and her own studs.

Model: Basie Minus, Makeup: Saint Lucifer, Hair: Laura 109 Casal, Styling and production: InĂŠs Arimany

110

Museum Studies

Photography by Alejandro RubĂ­

Crisp lines, smart angles, and precise tailoring are the hallmarks of the modern trouser. Mix these architecturally-inspired pieces with casual tops and easy jackets for an effortlessly put-together look.

111

Madeline wears coat by Zara, trousers by Mango, and earrings by Lucia Marti. Opposite page: Madeline wears sweater by J.Crew, trousers by Mango, and earrings by Lucia Marti. Previous page: Madeline wears sweater by Zara, trousers by Mango, and necklace by Lucia Marti

112

113

114

Opposite page: Madeline wears sweater by Mango, trousers by Zara, earrings by Lucia Marti, and shoes by J.Crew.

115

116

This page and opposite: Madeline wears sweater by Zara, trousers by Mango, necklace by Lucia Marti, and shoes by 117 Zara

118

119

Madeline wears coat by Zara, sweater by J.Crew, trousers by Mango, and earrings by Lucia Marti. Opposite page: Madeline wears sweater by Zara, trousers by Mango, necklace by Lucia Marti and shoes by Zara

120

121

122

Madeline wears sweater by Zara, trousers by Mango, necklace

by Lucia Marti and shoes by Zara. Previous page: Madeline wears sweater by Zara, trousers by Mango, necklace by Lucia Marti, and shoes by Zara

Madeline wears sweater by Zara and necklace

by Lucia Marti

123

124

125

Madeline wears sweater by Club Monaco and earrings by Lucia Marti. Opposite page: Madeline wears sweater by Club Monaco, trousers by Zara, earrings by Lucia Marti, and shoes by Zara

126

127

128

Madeline wears sweater by Mango, trousers by Zara and earrings by Lucia Marti. Previous page: Madeline wears sweater

by Zara and necklace by Lucia Marti

Madeline wears sweater by Mango, trousers by Zara, earrings by Lucia Marti, and shoes by J.Crew.

129 Model: Madeline Dilustro

Sport Mode

Photography by Grant Kelly

Fitness is an integral part of the modern woman’s weekly schedule. With an ever-expanding array of methods, programs, and classes, there are infinite ways to fit exercise into one’s regular routine. More challenging, however, is finding activewear that fulfills the requirements of both form and function.

Here, we explore some of our favorite pieces that are appropriate for both sport and street.

130

131

Michela wears bra by H&M. Previous page: Michela wears coat and trousers by Club Monaco and top by 132 Outdoor Voices

133

Michela wears jacket and trousers by H&M and bra by Outdoor Voices

134

135

136

Michela wears jacket and trousers by Club Monaco and top by Outdoor Voices. Previous page: Michela wears tank by H&M

Michela wears jacket and trousers by H&M and bra by Outdoor Voices

137

Michela wears jacket and trousers by H&M, bra by Outdoor Voices, and shoes by Jack Purcell for Converse

138

139

Michela wears jacket by Nike and tank by H&M. Opposite page: On the left, Michela wears tank by H&M and trousers by the Hanger. On the right, Michela wears tank by H&M

140

104

141

Michela wears top by Helmut Lang

142

143

Michela wears sweatshirt by Maison KitsunĂŠ and skirt by Zara. Model: Michela Magnani

144

145

Splendor in the Grass

Photography by Andrea Mora

As the full flower of nature’s bounty appears, head for the hills in romantic ruffles, airy fabrics, and intricate lace. The dappled sunlight and softly swaying grasses make for a delirious daydream of modern femininity.

146

147

Maisy wears dress by Self-portrait. Previous page: Maisy wears dress by Self-portrait and wears her own 148 ring throughout

149

150

Maisy wears gown by Self-portrait. Opposite page: Maisy wears gown by Self-portrait and shoes by Zara

151

Maisy wears dress by Self-portrait

152

Maisy wears dress by Self-portrait

153

Maisy wears gown by Self-portrait and shoes by Zara

154

155

156

157

Maisy wears blouse by Eryn Brinié, trousers and belt by Zara, and clutch by Lord & Taylor. Previous page: Maisy 158 wears blouse by Eryn Brinié, and trousers and belt by 117 Zara

159

Above, Maisy wears blouse by Eryn Brinié, trousers and belt by Zara, and clutch by Lord & Taylor. Below, Maisy wears blouse by Eryn Brinié and belt by Zara

Maisy wears coat by Club Monaco, blouse by Eryn 160 BriniĂŠ, and trousers and belt by Zara. Opposite page: Maisy wears gown by Self-portrait

161

162

163 Maisy wears blouse by J.Crew. Opposite page: Masiy wears blouse by J.Crew and trousers by Zara

Maisy wears coat by Club Monaco, blouse by Eryn 164 BriniĂŠ, and trousers and belt by Zara. Model: Maisy Brichetto

165

Shani Tsfoni Sunday Sketches 2, 2017

166

The Male Perspective Words by Caroline Lowe

Photographer Alejandro Rubí gives us an alternative view on the modern woman and his creative process.

167

CL: What are your favorite subjects to shoot?

AR: Humans- I’m really into portraits and facial structures. That’s what I want to pursue. Fashion, portraits, anything with the human figure involved is my favorite subject matter.

CL: How do you choose your subjects?

AR: For myself, I do a lot of research. I’m constantly grabbing a lot of ideas from the web. Whatever I see, I’ll apply it to my art. I don’t pick a subject matter, but whenever I want to shoot something, I’ll pick what best suits my idea. I just go with the flow, I don’t really like to set up stuff, rather see how it goes. If it turns out well, good, if not, I’ll try to look for subject matter that fits my idea and what I’m trying to do. I like commercial and fashion and that whole world, but I don’t like the fact that it has to be all perfect.

I try to iuse what I have at the moment, and if the final result isn’t what I was expecting, I’ll try to get a different model or something that works better for what I’m trying to pursue.

CL: Where do you look for inspiration?

AR: I’ll say Instagram. Not so much my friends or big companies, but artists. There are some accounts that are just communities and they expose new artists and different techniques and things like that.

So I’ll just screenshot a bunch of things that I see in my feed and then I’ll write something about it so I can remember why I chose to save that. Then, whenever I have a project to do, or somebody asks me to help them with something, I can go back to my reference, and say, “Oh we can do something like this,” or “We can combine this and this,” something that inspires me with something that you want to do.

CL: Is there any particular Instagram account you’ve been inspired by recently?

AR: I’m really into street and high end fashion.

There’s a page called “Hypebeast,” which has lots of streetwear, but at the same time its very high end. They have everything- fashion and business and even sneakers. I’m into all that. I’m into the pop culture thing. I’ll follow a bunch of streetwear brands and just see what they’re shooting and how they’re setting up their lookbooks and all of that and use that as inspiration. A lot of magazines as welleditorials and things. So it’s just gathering a lot of information from big companies that are successful and checking to see who they’re mentioning in their posts, and then I’ll research them and see what I like from there.

CL: How would you describe the modern woman- what does she look like to you?

AR: I mean, I think the modern woman has evolved from what she used to be, even when I was younger.

Women right now have so much power and control over what they do. Previously, there were so many things that they weren’t allowed or able to do, and now women have enough liberty and power to create what they want. Whatever they say they can do it.

Women right now, has evolved to become stronger and more equal to men. They’re branching out to different careers and different professions that used to be seen as bad, or they weren’t allowed to do them. Women born now are and they have the mindset that they can do whatever they want, so they can accomplish better life goals throughout their lives. I don’t think that women have progressed far enough yet, but eventually, women will have even more power than they did 20 years ago or even now. So women have come a long way, but not far enough. Eventually it will be a dramatic change. In 20 years, I think that the modern woman will be perfect in the sense that they will be able to do anything they want regardless of criticism. There will always be that criticism, but it wont be important and they won’t emphasize whatever you do. It’s evolving in a positive way.

Index

Club Monaco clubmonaco.com

Mango shop.mango.com

Cosabella cosabella.com

Marysia marysiaswim.com

H&M hm.com

Monica Varela monicavarela.com

Han Kjøbenhavn hankjobenhavn.com

Nike nike.com

Helmut Lang helmutlang.com

Outdoor Voices outdoorvoices.com

J.Crew jcrew.com

Proenza Schouler proenzaschouler.com

Jack Purcell converse.com

Self-portrait self-portrait-studio.com

Liberty London libertylondon.com

Smythson of Bond Street smythson.com

LOFT loft.com

Solid & Striped solidandstriped.com

Lucia Marti luciabmarti.com

Sonos sonos.com

Madewell madewell.com

Urban Outfitters urbanoutfitters.com

Maison KitsunĂŠ shop.kitsune.fr

Zara zara.com

168