TREND REPORT AW 18/19
CAROLINE LOWE FASH 419 // CURRENT TRENDS & FORECASTING SPRING 2017
PAGE 06
02
01 NEUTRALS
PASTELS PAGE 14
CONTENTS
PAGE 22
04
03 JEWELS
BRIGHTS PAGE 30
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EDITOR’S LETTER
As the pace of change in our world increases dramatically, fashion is pushed to its limits to keep up. Threads of ideas tangle together, crossing over each other to create a tumultuous mix of old and new. Gazing back at the past while simultaneously peering into the future in an attempt to gain insights into the present leaves us untethered in a storm of conflicting influences and stories. While this does inherently engender confusion, it also allows for great creativity as standard mores and traditions dissolve. Colors, fabrics, and prints typically reserved for warmer months are seen in winter collections as global warming continually threatens to render seasons obsolete. Gender-combined runways and gender-bending shapes are seen more and more with the rise of gender fluidity. This dissolution, while it does opportunities for thos who have never felt included in traditional structures, has aslo resulted in a conservative counter-movement in response, and we see the results of that conflict in the colors, shapes, and textures in the upcoming fashion season.
Caroline Lowe, Editor
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NEUTRALS
I 6
IVY LEAGUE 7
01
IVY LEAGUE
Dusty tomes and climbing ivy evoke the guarded tradition of America’s elite universities. Japanese
photographer Shosuke Ishizu’s 1965 book, Take Ivy, brought the Ivy League American style to the world, and now we see it reinterpreted through that Japanese lense. Origami pleats and oversize shoulder jackets bring a modern twist to the idea of uniform dressing, seen in faded versions of collegiate mascot hues and shades reminiscient of 1960’s industrial architecture. Oversize patch pockets and double-breasted coats evoke menswear in an hyper-emphasized way.
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Chalk 11-4300 TCX
Mortar 13-1007 TCX
Yard 18-0521 TCX
Slate 19-4009 TCX
Loafer 19-1106 TCX
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NEUTRALS
Granite 17-0205 TCX
Leather-bound 18-1142 TCX
MOOD
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FABRIC & TEXTURE Origami pleats evoking Issey Miyake are rendered in lightweight silks in matte or with a subtle reflective texture. Gathering and quilting, in canvas or structured cotton, adds volume, while oversize flap pockets add to the utilitarian, uniform feel. Overall, this look is predominantly matte, but polished leather adds a hint of shine.
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SILHOUETTES
Narciso Rodriguez
Ann Sofie Madsen
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Jil Sander
Céline
Lemaire
Jil Sander
Dries Van Noten
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PASTELS
N 14
NOSTALGIA 15
02
NOSTALGIA
Members of the millennial generation are increasingly revolting agaisnt their status as “digital natives� by seeking out analog media and vintage tech devices, reminiscient of an earlier, less complicated era. Vinyl
records saw their biggest sales in 25 years in 2016, and Polaroid cameras are enjoying a massive resurgence, as millennials search for a precious, tangible alternative to the endless stream of digital media that surrounds them. Along with this trend comes a desire for the ease of a simpler time- looking to the faded candy pastels of mid-century Americana, viewed through the rosetinted glasses of a generation that never expereinced it. Wispy chiffons and gathered knits are seen in ladylike tea-length dresses and matching skirt and sweater sets. Conservative high necklines and sweet pussybow blouses are accented with saccharine floral prints.
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Studebaker 15-1322 TCX
Pedal pusher 16-3803 TCX
Baby 13-3803 TCX
Bobby sock 16-3920 TCX
Vitrolite 16-5815 TCX
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PASTELS
Milkshake 11-1305 TCX
Banana split 14-0847 TCX
MOOD
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FABRIC & TEXTURE Three dimensionality in the form of architectural flower detail or structured ruffles contribute to this look’s structure. Blocky suede accessories in modern versions of traditional ladylike shapes and matte, closely-woven wools ground more sheer fabrics like chiffon and reflective textures like velevt and silk charmeuse.
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SILHOUETTES
Lanvin
Rochas
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Bottega Veneta
Valentino
No. 21
Mulberry
Nina Ricci
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JEWELS
D 22
DEEP SPACE 23
03
DEEP SPACE
Space has long been dubbed “the final frontier,” but recent efforts by NASA and private space agencies
like SpaceX and Virgin Galactic are gradually taming this wild expanse. NASA’s Juno and Cassini probes are snapping unprecedented views of Jupiter and Saturn, and rumors abound about a possible mission to the Sun. Meanwhile, SpaceX has successfully lanched one of its reusable capsules sending supplies to the International Space Station. With all of this activity. the rich colors and alien landscapes of space are more ubiquitous than ever, inspiring in their foreignness and (literally) otherwordly qualities. Reflective and metallic fabrics amplify the shades and the futuristic nature of this look. Silhouettes emphasize the shoulders , and modern kilt flaps and loose obi belts add a volumetric quality to tonal dressing.
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Electron 15-1150 TCX
Corona 13-0752 TCX
Aurora 19-4726 TCX
Dark matter 19-3952 TCX
Ultraviolet 19-3230 TCX
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JEWELS
Gamma 19-1863 TCX
Flare 18-2140 TCX
MOOD
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FABRIC & TEXTURE Liquid metallic lurex knits and supple velvet jersey contribute to the reflective, space-like sheen of this look. Shiny, plastic patents contrast with silk crepes to emphasize the richness of the colors.
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SILHOUETTES
Jil Sander
Roksanda
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Mulberry
Krizia
Agnona
Salvatore Ferragamo
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Akris
BRIGHTS
TO 30
OXIC WASTE 31
04
TOXIC WASTE As the effects of man-made climate change become
increasingly apparent, the line between manufactured and naturally occurring colors and textures in the environment is blurred. However, whether in the form of toxic seepage that turns a river bright orange or a suffocating algae bloom that blankets waterways in a layer of poisonous sludge, there’s no denying the disturbing beauty of these acidic brights juxtaposed against the natural shades of green, brown, and blue of the surrounding environment. Tone-on-tone looks maximize the saturation of these lurid shades. Deconstructed wrap looks and athletic details like drawstrings and ruching add to the unnatural characteristics of this story.
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Warning 17-1361 TCX
Sulfur 14-0755 TCX
Acid 14-0340 TCX
Contaminant 18-5020 TCX
Noxious 19-4049 TCX
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BRIGHTS
Oxide 18-5555 TCX
Poison 18-1856 TCX
MOOD
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FABRIC & TEXTURE Slick patent finishes and smooth, matte rubber accessories contrast with more natural semisheer jersey knits and rich silk crepes. Cutouts and ruching in assymetric positioning add to the off-kilter nature of this look.
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SILHOUETTES
Proenza Schouler
Mulberry
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Masha Ma
Sies Marjan
Versus
Marni
Ellery
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RESOURCES PERIODICALS
WEBSITES
L’Officiel Peclers Paris
businessoffashion.com pantone.com vogue.com wgsn.com
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