Trend Report A/W 18/19

Page 1

TREND REPORT AW 18/19

CAROLINE LOWE FASH 419 // CURRENT TRENDS & FORECASTING SPRING 2017


PAGE 06

02

01 NEUTRALS

PASTELS PAGE 14

CONTENTS


PAGE 22

04

03 JEWELS

BRIGHTS PAGE 30


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EDITOR’S LETTER

As the pace of change in our world increases dramatically, fashion is pushed to its limits to keep up. Threads of ideas tangle together, crossing over each other to create a tumultuous mix of old and new. Gazing back at the past while simultaneously peering into the future in an attempt to gain insights into the present leaves us untethered in a storm of conflicting influences and stories. While this does inherently engender confusion, it also allows for great creativity as standard mores and traditions dissolve. Colors, fabrics, and prints typically reserved for warmer months are seen in winter collections as global warming continually threatens to render seasons obsolete. Gender-combined runways and gender-bending shapes are seen more and more with the rise of gender fluidity. This dissolution, while it does opportunities for thos who have never felt included in traditional structures, has aslo resulted in a conservative counter-movement in response, and we see the results of that conflict in the colors, shapes, and textures in the upcoming fashion season.

Caroline Lowe, Editor

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NEUTRALS

I 6


IVY LEAGUE 7


01

IVY LEAGUE

Dusty tomes and climbing ivy evoke the guarded tradition of America’s elite universities. Japanese

photographer Shosuke Ishizu’s 1965 book, Take Ivy, brought the Ivy League American style to the world, and now we see it reinterpreted through that Japanese lense. Origami pleats and oversize shoulder jackets bring a modern twist to the idea of uniform dressing, seen in faded versions of collegiate mascot hues and shades reminiscient of 1960’s industrial architecture. Oversize patch pockets and double-breasted coats evoke menswear in an hyper-emphasized way.

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Chalk 11-4300 TCX

Mortar 13-1007 TCX

Yard 18-0521 TCX

Slate 19-4009 TCX

Loafer 19-1106 TCX

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NEUTRALS

Granite 17-0205 TCX

Leather-bound 18-1142 TCX


MOOD

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FABRIC & TEXTURE Origami pleats evoking Issey Miyake are rendered in lightweight silks in matte or with a subtle reflective texture. Gathering and quilting, in canvas or structured cotton, adds volume, while oversize flap pockets add to the utilitarian, uniform feel. Overall, this look is predominantly matte, but polished leather adds a hint of shine.

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SILHOUETTES

Narciso Rodriguez

Ann Sofie Madsen

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Jil Sander

Céline


Lemaire

Jil Sander

Dries Van Noten

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PASTELS

N 14


NOSTALGIA 15


02

NOSTALGIA

Members of the millennial generation are increasingly revolting agaisnt their status as “digital natives� by seeking out analog media and vintage tech devices, reminiscient of an earlier, less complicated era. Vinyl

records saw their biggest sales in 25 years in 2016, and Polaroid cameras are enjoying a massive resurgence, as millennials search for a precious, tangible alternative to the endless stream of digital media that surrounds them. Along with this trend comes a desire for the ease of a simpler time- looking to the faded candy pastels of mid-century Americana, viewed through the rosetinted glasses of a generation that never expereinced it. Wispy chiffons and gathered knits are seen in ladylike tea-length dresses and matching skirt and sweater sets. Conservative high necklines and sweet pussybow blouses are accented with saccharine floral prints.

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Studebaker 15-1322 TCX

Pedal pusher 16-3803 TCX

Baby 13-3803 TCX

Bobby sock 16-3920 TCX

Vitrolite 16-5815 TCX

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PASTELS

Milkshake 11-1305 TCX

Banana split 14-0847 TCX


MOOD

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FABRIC & TEXTURE Three dimensionality in the form of architectural flower detail or structured ruffles contribute to this look’s structure. Blocky suede accessories in modern versions of traditional ladylike shapes and matte, closely-woven wools ground more sheer fabrics like chiffon and reflective textures like velevt and silk charmeuse.

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SILHOUETTES

Lanvin

Rochas

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Bottega Veneta

Valentino


No. 21

Mulberry

Nina Ricci

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JEWELS

D 22


DEEP SPACE 23


03

DEEP SPACE

Space has long been dubbed “the final frontier,” but recent efforts by NASA and private space agencies

like SpaceX and Virgin Galactic are gradually taming this wild expanse. NASA’s Juno and Cassini probes are snapping unprecedented views of Jupiter and Saturn, and rumors abound about a possible mission to the Sun. Meanwhile, SpaceX has successfully lanched one of its reusable capsules sending supplies to the International Space Station. With all of this activity. the rich colors and alien landscapes of space are more ubiquitous than ever, inspiring in their foreignness and (literally) otherwordly qualities. Reflective and metallic fabrics amplify the shades and the futuristic nature of this look. Silhouettes emphasize the shoulders , and modern kilt flaps and loose obi belts add a volumetric quality to tonal dressing.

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Electron 15-1150 TCX

Corona 13-0752 TCX

Aurora 19-4726 TCX

Dark matter 19-3952 TCX

Ultraviolet 19-3230 TCX

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JEWELS

Gamma 19-1863 TCX

Flare 18-2140 TCX


MOOD

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FABRIC & TEXTURE Liquid metallic lurex knits and supple velvet jersey contribute to the reflective, space-like sheen of this look. Shiny, plastic patents contrast with silk crepes to emphasize the richness of the colors.

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SILHOUETTES

Jil Sander

Roksanda

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Mulberry

Krizia


Agnona

Salvatore Ferragamo

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Akris


BRIGHTS

TO 30


OXIC WASTE 31


04

TOXIC WASTE As the effects of man-made climate change become

increasingly apparent, the line between manufactured and naturally occurring colors and textures in the environment is blurred. However, whether in the form of toxic seepage that turns a river bright orange or a suffocating algae bloom that blankets waterways in a layer of poisonous sludge, there’s no denying the disturbing beauty of these acidic brights juxtaposed against the natural shades of green, brown, and blue of the surrounding environment. Tone-on-tone looks maximize the saturation of these lurid shades. Deconstructed wrap looks and athletic details like drawstrings and ruching add to the unnatural characteristics of this story.

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Warning 17-1361 TCX

Sulfur 14-0755 TCX

Acid 14-0340 TCX

Contaminant 18-5020 TCX

Noxious 19-4049 TCX

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BRIGHTS

Oxide 18-5555 TCX

Poison 18-1856 TCX


MOOD

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FABRIC & TEXTURE Slick patent finishes and smooth, matte rubber accessories contrast with more natural semisheer jersey knits and rich silk crepes. Cutouts and ruching in assymetric positioning add to the off-kilter nature of this look.

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SILHOUETTES

Proenza Schouler

Mulberry

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Masha Ma

Sies Marjan


Versus

Marni

Ellery

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RESOURCES PERIODICALS

WEBSITES

L’Officiel Peclers Paris

businessoffashion.com pantone.com vogue.com wgsn.com

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