B.G.I.

Belt Grinder Ideas

Bill Pace grinder has been made by several on the HSM boards. Shows tracking mechanism at the top very well...

Platen inspired by Lane added to Bill Pace's grinder...

More on the tracking mechanism by George Barnes...

Lane over on HSM built one along the same design...

Andrew McLurkin's Bader III is mounted on its side to make it easier for him to do fine work. Note the very small wheels and wrap around tool rest so he can get inside tight areas.

Dozier makes some of the best grinders there are. This series shows off the different accessory configurations they have available:

Here is the grinder. Note the pneumatic tensioner.

3 Configurations, left to right: the basic wheel, slack belt grinding, and a platen grinding setup...

Beaumont Metalworks offer the excellent KMG grinder:

It would be knife to turn this grinder horizontally like McLurkin shows at the top of this page and then use this attachment with a rest that fit nicely. You could really get into some tight spots with it!

Tooling arm rack is a clever accessory that makes changing the configuration fast and easy.

Here is the grinder sporting a platen attachment, and a rest on the lhs photo.

Note the solid CNC construction. Minimal welding. Picture on far right is the slack belt attachment.

Or, how about a rotary platen? Seems like it could take the place of several of the other accessories. The actual "platen" is a rotary belt under tension with rollers.

Here is a variable speed JL grinder:

The venerable Bader III grinder is well respected:

Big Belt Grinder Links Page Best of Links:

Mike Alexander's Belt Grinder: Easy to construct 3-wheeler

Nice grinder by PTPiddler...

BurrKing's Belt Grinder Tips Page

Emerald Isle's KMG Copy...

Great looking kit by Simplatic. Looks like a good plasma cutting job...

ÂŁ&XLGDGR 'LEXMRV IXHUD GH HVFDOD

Fogg's PDF Plans for a KMG Clone...

Ray Clontz's clever design uses a piece of truck drive axle and it's U-Joint as the pivot for the arm. Detail of the tracking adjustment on the right...

Talented Frenchman builds a nice knife grinder. Plans are in English.

The Dream KMG Attachment: Check out the "Dream" KMG attachment, pretty cool!

Wilmont’s Cool 3 Attachment Grinder The rest is slightly reminiscent of the "Dream" KMG rest shown above. The Wilmont is a nice variation on the KMG and the site includes plans for a home shop model you can build.

It has 5 interchangeable contact wheels that can be indexed into position-these 3 plus the other 2 corners of the triangle have larger wheels...

They also make a hollow grinding attachment that's pretty neat...

Mike Alexander's Belt Grinder

PLEASE NOTE: Powerful belt grinders are DANGEROUS pieces of shop equipment. They must be used will all due care and caution. As we CANNOT control the manufacture or use of this design, you're on your own and we CANNOT accept ANY liability whatever!

Emerald Isle Forge

This is a belt grinder I made for grinding Damascus knives & whatever else I might need to grind.

I based it off a belt grinder made by Rob Frink of Beaumont Metal Works . I bought the 2" idler wheels & the drive wheel from him, also.

I liked his design because I could use many different size belts.

I already had some 46"(I think) belts that I wanted to be able to use & I wanted to be able to use the 72" belts most knife makers use.

This grinder has adjustable belt tension & completely adjustable belt tracking. Right now it has a 3/4 HP 3450 RPM pump motor running it.

I'm going to have to upgrade it soon because it doesn't have enough torq to start eaisly, once it gets going it's fine though.

I like flat grinding blades right now, so I just made the square wheel for it. If I want to, I can put any size round wheel on it too.

12-11-01 Update: I changed the motor on this to a 1hp 3450rpm induction motor.

It works MUCH better now! Also, I changed the drive bearings.

The ones I had were static & they vibrated all the set screws loose.

I changed them to self aligning bearings & it runs much smoother now.

How to build your own Simple Backstand

As hobbyst knifemaker, I needed a backstand but normal models were too expensive for me. So, I decided to build my own model.This one is made from junkyard tubes. To simplify explanations, I’ve given standard sizes for metal parts.

I’ve been using it for months : no problem.

I describe what I’ve done, it must be perfectible, and there’s many other ways to do it.

It’s just to tell you : “ go on, you can do it !”

:-)

As I’m French, I’m trying to explain the best I can in English... Try your best to understand !

First step : build the base : it has to be stable and strong.

Here, it’s made of welded square tubes 40x40 mm.

450

I’ve choosen the space between the two axial tubes to fit the base of my motor :

470

250 This motor comes from a pool pump.

It must be strongly fixed to the base.

Second step : tracking wheel.

It must be made according to your motor cam, and according to the required final diameter (see below) Mine was made of aluminium , this way :

Roue d’entraînement You can make it in wood, plastic....

Band speed must be, according to me, around 25 m/s.

Band makers are giving a speed of 33 m/s, but, at use, it’s too fast for me.

So, the diameter of the wheel will be 17 cm ( 0,170 m x 3.1415 x 2750 tr/mn

/ 60 = 24,48 m/s )

Contact wheel support : Strong rectangular tube : 60x120 and 340 mm long, It’s cut to give room around the wheel The wheel axis is simply made with a threaded rod of 20mm.

Brougnt from Soucille, this contact wheel is a 250mm model, hardness 60 shore.

(You can make a wood contact wheel covered with felt.

But you can’t compare with special ones.)

Soudure Axe roue de contact

340

120

Those contact wheels are sold simply with a hole in the middle : you have to make your own support with bearings..

Mine is made of two parts, as shown.

So, the axis is welded to the big tube, the wheel is mounted on it. Then you have a” wheel block” and a “motor base”.

Carefully align the wheel block on the motor base, then weld it together.

Next step : centering system : Use two square tubes sliding in each other Ex : 40 x 40 and 35 x 35 mm

40 x 40

35 x 35

280

350

In the big one (40x40) drill two holes (9mm) : you’ll have to weld two 8mm bolts : with two 8mm nuts you’ll be able to lock your system.

The 35x35 tube will support the centering system.

I cut two ends of tube of 35 x 35 of 250 and 200 length: they will be used as supports for the centering wheel and to the tension spring .

35 x 35

250

35 x 35

200

Both tubes are fixed to the tube of support with a threaded rod crossing with bolts on each side (nilstop ).

We cross the lower tube with a filleted stem at the end of which we fix a spring which will serve for tightening the band.

In my opinion, the spring has to have a pressure between 5 and 10 kg. The filleted stem serves for adjusting.

Centering system : There, the simplest is to refer to photos: an iron bar of 8 of the thickness and 20 wide is welded in an end of 20mm fileted stem which will receive the wheel of regulation. Two holes are drilled for the axis, the other one for the adjusting screw.

A strong 25x25mm metal angle is welded on the side to maintain the regulation bolt.

Then assemble all the centering parts.

And align it with the tracking wheel and the contact wheel :

When it’s correct, weld the centering system to the main frame.

It’s time to check if it works properly !

Remember that a centering wheel must be convex : if it’s flat, you’ll have difficulties to maintain the band centered.

You can now add options : A flat table , of 50/50 corner, and fixed to sliding tubes, like the centering system.

A removable plane support in front of the wheel of contact, in welded Angles:

A small removable casing which limits the projection of the sparks

You’ve done it ! You should have a machine easy to use, and effective.

Supplies : Soucille Z.I. De Felet 63300 Thiers Tel : 04 73 80 67 45

- Contact wheel, diameter 250, shore 60 : 93 € TTC - Centering wheel: caster of transpallet Www.manutan.fr 20

82 x 100

100

1000

1325M218

€ 16,00

http://www.manutan.fr/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/MAF/fr_FR/-/EUR/DisplayProductInformationStart;sid=cjKeicOBA92ejoAVS8qUhsWUKdyb1TScnDI=?ProductSKU=1325M218&CategoryName=M ainG-06177-750&Image=

- 30 cm threaded rod 20mm - 5 bolts 20mm - 50 cm threaded rod 8mm - 11 bolts 8 mm - 4 bolts 8 nilstop - 7 nuts 8mm diam. / 30mm length For the flat plan under band : - 10 cm threaded rod 12mm - 2 bolts 12 nilstop

Iron : - 220 cm de 40 x 40 - 105 cm de 35 x 35 - 35 cm de 120 x 60 - 15 cm angle 25 x 25 - 20 cm flat iron 8 x 20 For the flat plan under band : - 30 cm angle 50 x 50mm - 4 cm tube For the support in front of the contact wheel : - 50 cm tube 50 x 50mm

Example of other infinite possibilities

KNIFE GRINDER MATERIALS LIST & CONSTRUCTION TIPS

by Michael Clerc

Materials List •

Minimum tools required: Drill press & Drill bits ("#7", "F", 5/16", ¼", 17/64", ½", "O", 1") Tap Handle & Taps (¼-20, 5/16-18, ½-13) Hacksaw Flat file Dial or Digital Calipers Center Punch & Hammer Scribe Square

9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

•

Steel & Aluminum 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 2 2 1 1

-

¾"x5"x6" Cold or Hot Roll Steel Rectangle (Rear Support) ¾"x3"x6" Cold or Hot Roll Steel Rectangle (Front Support) ¾"x5"x5" Cold or Hot Roll Steel Rectangle (Bearing Supports) ¾"x1½"x2" Cold Roll Steel Rectangle (Tracking Pivot/Roller Mount) ¾"x2"x9" Cold Roll Steel Rectangle (Tension/Tracking Arm) ¾"x2"x5" Cold Roll Steel Rectangle (Tension/Tracking Arm Support) ½"x2½"x12" Cold Roll Steel Rectangle (Upper & Lower Main Arm) ½"x1½"x12" Cold Roll Steel Rectangle (Main Arm Sides, L & R) ½”x1”x2” Cold Roll Steel Rectangle (Tracking Pivot Mounts) 1½"x1½"x20" Cold or Hot Roll Steel Square Bar (Tooling Arm) ¼"x18"x18" Cold Roll Steel Plate (Base Mounting Plate)

Optional Items If Desired 1 - ½"x4"x6" Cold Roll Steel Rectangle (Work Rest) 1 - ½"x1½"x12" Cold Roll Steel Rectangle (Work Rest Support Arm) 1 - .375" (or .500”) x6"x12" Aluminum 6061-T6 Rectangle (Platen or Slack Belt Attachments) 1 - ¼"x2"x2"x6" Hot Roll Steel Angle (Platen Mount) 1 - .375"x2"x8" Cold Roll Steel Rectangle (Platen) The steel and aluminum I purchased initially from Online Metals because they had reasonable prices and they would cut the stock to the length I needed. I've since acquired a small metal cutting bandsaw and now buy my metal from a local supplier. You can use either Cold or Hot roll steel, which ever is available. The main difference in the two is strictly appearance. Cold roll is smoother, Hot roll will have some scale, as a general rule.

KNIFE GRINDER MATERIALS LIST & CONSTRUCTION TIPS

by Michael Clerc

Construction Tips This is going to be a project that will take several nights and or weekends to complete.

Don't try to rush through it and the end result will be a grinder that works better than you ever imagined.

•

Begin by making sure that all of the cuts on your metal pieces are square, both laterally and longitudinally. This will play a major role during assembly if they aren't. Use a file, grinder or belt sander to ensure their squareness.

•

Make sure that all of your steel pieces are cut to the correct length. This will make hole location and measuring go much smoother.

•

Make sure that your drill press is square, that is that the quill and table are square, otherwise the holes that you drill will not be square. Consult you drill press manual to see how this is checked and adjusted.

•

Don't force the drill bits through the metal. This will cause them to over-heat and they will dull very quickly. Use adequate cooling, either a light water mist or some sort of cutting oil.

•

When tapping the required holes, take extra caution to ensure that the tap goes into the hole absolutely square. It is very difficult to line things up later if the holes are tapped crooked.

•

Use either a set of dial calipers or a digital version to layout all the holes and cuts, if you don't, nothing will line up correctly.

•

Don't radius any of the corners, on any of the pieces until AFTER all of the holes have been drilled and tapped and you have assembled the grinder to make sure everything fits right.

•

Try to keep tolerances as tight as possible, this will help make a nicer, smoother running grinder when it is complete.

•

Be sure to use a center punch to locate all holes to be drilled.

KNIFE GRINDER MATERIALS LIST & CONSTRUCTION TIPS

by Michael Clerc

KNIFE GRINDER MATERIALS LIST & CONSTRUCTION TIPS

by Michael Clerc

KNIFE GRINDER MATERIALS LIST & CONSTRUCTION TIPS

by Michael Clerc

KNIFE GRINDER MATERIALS LIST & CONSTRUCTION TIPS

by Michael Clerc mike.clerc@cox.net

These holes are drilled ½" deep and tapped Ÿ-20.

Side

This area (.750"x2.0") removed.

This piece is made from ž"x2"x5" cold roll steel

Hole drilled all the way through the thin leg ONLY @ .316, on the thick leg, drill with 17/64 and tap 5/16-18.

Both .2010" holes drilled ½" into the bottom, are to be tapped Ÿ-20.

Bottom Front

Left Side

Hole is drilled through @ .4219", and is tapped ½-13

Top

Top - ½"x2½"x12" cold roll steel TOP ONLY - All of the .250" holes are drilled all the way through, and can be countersunk if so desired on the top side to accomodate ¼-20 flat head bolts.

Bottom

Bottom - ½"x2½"x12" cold roll steel BOTTOM ONLY - Holes marked .2010 are drilled with a #7 drill bit, and tapped with a ¼-20 tap. All holes are drilled all the way through.

These two holes are drilled all the way through, but are countersunk from the underside, to accommodate ¼-20 flat head bolts.

Holes marked .2010 are drilled with a #7 drill bit, and tapped with a Âź-20 tap. All holes are drilled all the way through.

Holes marked .2010 are drilled with a #7 drill bit, and tapped with a Âź-20 tap. All holes are drilled all the way through.

Holes marked .2010 are drilled with a #7 drill bit, and tapped with a Âź-20 tap. All holes are drilled all the way through.

Holes marked .2010 are drilled with a #7 drill bit, and tapped with a Âź-20 tap. All holes are drilled all the way through.

All holes drilled .2010" are tapped Âź-20.

Grinder Tension & Tracking Support Arm This item is 他"x2"x9" - Cold Roll Steel

Right Side Both Sides - ½"x1½"x12" cold roll steel

Bottom

Holes marked .2010 are drilled with a #7 drill bit, and tapped with a Âź-20 tap. All holes are drilled all the way through.

Front Support is 他"x3"x6", Rear Support is 他"x5"x6" and both are Cold Roll Steel.

All four of these holes are drilled clear through the piece @ .250" and can be countersunk.

All holes drilled in the bottom and top of these supports, are drilled 他" deep, and tapped 村-20 to that same depth.

Back View

Two pieces, ž"x5"x5" cold roll steel

The four holes that are drilled .2010" are drilled all the way through, and are tapped @ Âź-20.

Side View All of the holes drilled in the bottom and side of these supports, are drilled @ .2010", are 1" deep, and are tapped @ Âź-20 to that same depth.

Bottom View

Base plate made from Âź"x12"x20" cold roll steel. (can be made larger if desired to facilitate mounting the motor, this is a minimum) All holes drilled all the way through, but should be countersunk from the bottom so that plate mounts flat on whatever surface this unit is mounted.

This piece is ¾"x1½"x2" - Cold Roll Steel.

Front

Side