Cask & Still Magazine - Issue 18 by Cask & Still Magazine

ISSUE EIGHTEEN | FREE

WHAT S IN THE BOTTLE

How to combat cask scams and ‘Scottish’ gins distilled in China

This supreme accolade places

Whisky

Robbie’s Whisky Merchants is an official Ardbeg Embassy.

EDITOR From the

Scotland’s drinks industry is an economic behemoth whose value to the country is often under-appreciated. Scotch whisky alone is worth £7.1 billion a year to our economy, which is 26% of all UK food and drink exports.

It’s not just whisky though. A littleknown fact is that over 70% of gin made in the UK is also made in Scotland.

According to The Spirits Business figures, three of the world’s top six selling gin brands are distilled in Scotland (Gordon’s is first, Tanqueray third, Hendrick’s sixth).

The author of this issue’s The Rant column, Gin Bothy owner Kim Cameron, points out that such is the cachet of spirit distilled in Scotland that it attracts a 30% premium. Reputation drives price, something that the whisky industry

understood a long while ago, which is why it has such stringent rules.

Rather than a drag anchor to growth, this occasionally cumbersome bureaucracy has underpinned the development of the industry. This is why we believe it’s high time to extend that iron regulation to casks (a subject which Mark Littler covers on pages 34-37) and to gins which proclaim themselves to be ‘Made In Scotland’ (an issue which Kim covers on pages 12-13).

This is very much an idea whose time has come.

EDITOR Richard Bath

Contributors

KRISTIANE SHERRY

Why does Islay so completely mesmerise whisky aficionados?

We sent whisky writer Kristiane to investigate.

DR BROOKE MAGNANTI

Our spirits guru now practises Abstinent August, so she’s the perfect person to investigate noalcohol booze.

NEWS

Remember, you heard it here first...

08 BAR SNAPS Whisky heaven down under at Melbourne’s Boilermaker House

10 ME & MY DRAM Sharing a dram with Scottish rally and racing driver Louise Aitken-Walker

32 A BLUFFER’S GUIDE TO BARLEY Everything you ever needed to know about malted barley

CONNOISSEURS’ SELECTION

46 DISTILLING

S & The team

THE RANT Kim Cameron from Gin

Bothy knows we need to protect Scottish gin

TREASURE

Kristiane Sherry explores the enduring appeal of

WHISKY BY NUMBERS Impress your mates with all of the latest stats on Scotch whisky

ALL IN THE Cocktails to make your summer shine from Isle of Harris Distillery

OVERSEAS WHISKY

Find out why Singapore’s whisky scene is going from strength-to-

HISTORY Pedro Buchanan is bringing Mezcal to the motherland

50 MASTER DISTILLER

Hendrick’s Gin’s Lesley Gracie takes centre stage

56 WHISKY HERO

Explorer Mike Laird is never without a dram, no matter how far he is from home

60 OVER A BARREL Richard

Bath talks to Emma McClarkin about saving Scotland’s pubs

64 SPIRIT LEVEL

Dr Magnanti experiments with sobriety with zero alcohol drinks

66 DRINKING WHISKY IN SOUTH KOREA

Editor: Richard Bath

Design: Grant Dickie

Production: Andrew Balahura, Megan Amato

Chief Sub-Editor: Rosie Morton

Staff Writers: Morag Bootland, Ellie Forbes

Contributing Editor: Blair Bowman

Contributors: Dr Brooke Magnanti, Mark Littler, Federica Stefani, Peter Ranscombe, Kristiane Sherry, Eilidh Tuckett, Gilly Pickup, Kim Cameron

ADVERTISING

Grant Philbin Tel: 0131 551 7915

PUBLISHING

Publisher: Alister Bennett, The North Quarter, 496 Ferry Road, Edinburgh EH5 2DL. Tel: 0131 551 1000 JUNE 2024 ISSUE EIGHTEEN

DESIGN & EDITORIAL

Email: editor@caskandstill magazine.com

Published by Wyvex Media Ltd.

While Cask & Still is prepared to consider unsolicited articles, transparencies and artwork, it only accepts such material on the strict understanding that it incurs no liability for its safe custody or return. The views and opinions expressed in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Wyvex Media Ltd.

Beitna Kim on the thriving whisky scene @caskandstillmag

COUNTERING COUNTERFEITS

Scientists are creating a new alcohol database to help identify counterfeit spirits. Researchers from Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh are compiling a database to test, compare and log alcoholic spirits, to make it easier to detect fake spirits. Alongside scientists in New York, they have spent six months logging the chemical fingerprint of hundreds of authentic international spirits, including whisky. www.hw.ac.uk

FEED News

DRAM SUCCESS

A bottle of Dalmore whisky encased in a glass sculpture has sold for £93,750 at a Sotheby’s auction. The Dalmore Luminary No.2 ‘The Rare’ is the second release in The Luminary Series, a partnership between The Dalmore and V&A Dundee. All proceeds from the £75,000 hammer price will be donated to the V&A which has worked with the distillery since 2020. Only three bottles and two sculptures have and will ever be created. Weighing a substantial 80kg, the sculpture’s liquid-like texture and gloss finish comes from more than 500 hours of hand polishing. It was designed by Melodie Leung, a director at Zaha Hadid Architects. www.thedalmore.com

HAAD ON

The first distillery on Shetland is set to open this year. Friends Martin Watt, Caroline MacIntyre and Calum Miller came up with the idea for Lerwick Distillery more than a decade ago. The initial spirit from the site will be called ‘Haad Still’ – a Shetland dialect phrase for ‘hold still’. www.shetlandwhisky.com

TOP OF THE POPS

New data has unveiled the top British celebrity alcohol brands in demand, with ‘Gary Barlow Wines’ taking the top spot. Monthly searches for terms relating to the Take That star’s alcohol brand totalled 3,010. Second in the rankings is Haig Club Whisky by David Beckham, with monthly searches averaging 2,510. The footballer’s most searched-for line is his orange flavoured whisky. www.upbeatagency.com

NEW EXPRESSIONS

ROSEBANK 32 YEAR

47.6% ABV, RRP £2,100

This is the final expression in Rosebank’s Legacy Series and has been composed from the limited casks retained from before the distillery closed, more than 30 years ago.

BENRIACH DISTILLERY

ISLAY ADVENTURE

Bowmore distillery has launched an adventure experience on Islay with Aston Martin. During the £800 day-long excursion, guests will explore the island in a chauffeur driven Aston Martin DBX Bowmore Edition. The car is a special edition of Aston Martin’s ultraluxury SUV inspired by the island and Bowmore whisky. www.bowmore.com

YEAR OLD

44.5% ABV, RRP £25,000

This is the most expensive and exclusive release from Speyside distillery Benriach, with just 37 bottles available. The whisky is held within a bespoke crystal decanter.

TOMATIN 12 YEAR

OLD SHERRY CASK

40% ABV, RRP £52

Fully matured in sherry casks, this dram opens with sweet aromas of caramelised apple and pears and has a lingering warm finish.

PORT CHARLOTTE

YEAR OLD

54.3% ABV, RRP £175

The oldest expression of the heavily peated single malt to be released by the distillery. It has notes of fig, sweet sultanas, and raisins followed by waves of burnt heather and cinder toffee.

ONE OF A KIND

Scotland’s longest serving distiller has retired. Born on The Glen Grant distillery grounds in 1946, where both his father and grandfather worked, Dennis Malcolm was always destined for a career in Scotch whisky. He began working as an apprentice cooper at 16-years-old and went on to have a six decade long career, becoming a whisky icon. www.glengrant.com

NEW HORIZONS

The Balmoral Hotel, in Edinburgh has secured a bottle of The Macallan Horizon and is now offering up a £100,000 whisky experience. The experience includes becoming the owner of the world’s first horizontal whisky bottle, a two-night stay at the hotel’s presidential suite and an overnight stay at The Macallan Estate. www.roccofortehotels.com

DRAMMe & my

Legendary rally driver Louise Aitken-Walker talks us through her love of whisky and her very own dram

Interview by Morag Bootland

Do you remember the first time you ever drank whisky?

I’ve been brought up with whisky. My dad was a lover of whisky, there was always a dram in the house on a Saturday night. I’m one of eight children and obviously he kept it on the top shelf so we couldn’t taste it. But we managed to reach the top of the cupboard by the time I was a out or . I got my ﬁrst taste of whisky and it was a bit of a shock to the system – it was a completely different taste! I thought ‘Mmm, right, I’m going to have to acquire a taste for this whisky,’ which I really have done.

What’s been your most memorable whisky drinking moment?

I have to say it was after the Scottish Rally in 1987. I was up in Aviemore in one of the big hotels and we did very well in one of the events. We opened a bottle of Balvenie, and it was an expensive bottle. I remember having all the service crew saying ‘right we’re gonna have a little taste of this Scottish stuff’, and the bottle was empty by the end of the night.

taste.’ I tried single malts from the Highlands, Tayside and Campbeltown. But very quickly I landed on the Invergordon single grain whisky. I absolutely loved it. It was smooth, it was just delicious. I liked the taste of one cask, the smell of another and the finish of another. o we went on to uy five casks and avid rought all five casks together to produce this magnificent single grain whisky. There are 490 individually numbered bottles and the packaging features photographs from my racing days.

How do you like to drink your whisky?

I’d always enjoyed my whisky straight, but this is another thing I learned from David. He said, try it ﬁrst on its own and then try it with water and I couldn’t believe the difference in taste.

But I think I would still prefer without, if I was completely honest. I’ve never been very keen on drinking whisky in cocktails.

‘I thought, I’m going to have to acquire a taste for this whisky’

What made you decide to release your own whisky?

My passion for whisky comes a very close second to my passion for rally driving and I wanted to celebrate the 33rd anniversary of my Ladies’ World Rally Championship win, so what better way to do that? It’s an Invergordon single grain whisky, aged for 33 years. The fact that I’ve done it and it’s on sale is a bit like a fairytale really.

How did you decide on a whisky?

I had some help from David Roberston, former Master Distiller at The Macallan. I think if I’m being honest he’s taught me more about whisky in the last year than I’d learned in a lifetime. I did several tastings with him and on the fourth tasting David brought six different expressions for me to try. He said: ‘It’s all about personal

Have you ever visited a distillery?

Yes, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting GlenAllachie and The Macallan.

What would you say to anyone who says they don’t like whisky?

I’d be very honest and tell them they are drinking the wrong kind of whisky. They should try mine!

When do you like to enjoy a dram?

It has always been a very social thing for me. I’ve always enjoyed a dram with friends at dinner parties or at our local, The Allanton Inn in the Scottish Borders. And I’ve always treated myself to something special for Burns Night.

Before I released my own whisky I think I was just sampling things without any guidance, but now I know what I really like.

Louise Aitken-Walker’s limited-edition whisky is available to buy from turasdana.com.

A MADE IN SCOTLAND

We as a nation have safeguarded the long-term future of whisky, so why won’t we do the same for our other spirits, like gin?

s labels go, one that reads ‘Made in Scotland’ carries with it a certain degree of kudos. But what does it actually mean?

Is the product made here in Scotland? Are a certain percentage of the ingredients sourced in Scotland? Or does the company that makes the product have a cottish ead uarters ut the product itself has never even touched Caledonian soil? Or is it none of the above?

Written by Kim Cameron

guarantees a product’s characteristics or reputation, authenticity and origin. It protects the product name from misuse or imitation. But unfortunately the same cannot be said for Scottish gin.

If you’re buying a bottle of Scotch whisky then the fact that it has protected status under the UK geographical indication (GI) scheme means you can be fairly certain about the provenance of the dram you’re planning to enjoy. GI protection

Over 70% of UK gin is now produced in Scotland. The growth of the Scottish gin brand cannot and should not be underestimated. It is worth a lot of money to our economy. And according to Scotland Food & Drink, consumers are willing to pay up to 30% more for a Scottish product. This is down to years of hard work from producers, not just in the gin industry, but across the food and drink sector. Whether it be Scotch beef, shortbread or spirits, Scottish produce is always of the highest calibre. Consumers expect that when they buy a product that is labelled ‘Made in cotland it will ﬁt with their uality e pectations.

There are so many talented gin producers in Scotland but it’s crucial that our work isn’t diluted by brands using the Scottish name to enhance their marketing.

cottish gin is uni ue ecause of the uality of the water here. I would argue that it is the best in the world. And then there are the botanicals. We use Scottish heather, hand-harvested Scots pine and rosemary that is all grown here in Scotland. Despite what some producers will tell you, there just isn’t enough Scottish juniper to go around, so when we can get it here then we do, but we need to supplement this with sustainable imported juniper. Not all of our botanicals can be grown in Scotland, but our gin is distilled in Angus and bottled in Scotland too. It really is ‘Made in Scotland’.

But, because gin doesn’t carry the same GI protection as whisky, consumers can only take my word for that at the moment. Because there are gins on the market right

‘Getting Scottish gin the protected status it needs is in its infancy’

now that are produced in China that are able to be labelled ‘Made in Scotland’. And sadly it’s not just cheap imitations from the other side of the world that are masquerading as Scottish gin. There is a really well-known distillery that has a gin in their collection which says that it is made in Scotland, when really it is made in France. It may be a beautiful product and it may be hand-made, but it is misleading that it is labelled made in Scotland.

It is incredibly frustrating and that’s why I feel so strongly that there should be protections in place to ensure that if a gin carries the ‘Made in Scotland’ label that it genuinely is made here.

If we don’t step up and take action to protect brand Scotland then we risk devaluing the products that we have worked so hard to create. You only need to look at the whisky industry to see that there is a premium put on Scottish whisky. We’ve spent decades developing the brand, so that it is known around the globe for its quality, provenance and tradition and as arguably the best in the

world. Our gin is equally desirable and rightly held in high regard but if we don’t protect its status then we risk its reputation being sullied by companies who just want to make a quick buck.

companies who just want to make a

This isn’t something that will happen overnight. It is a political process and in my role on the Scottish Leadership programme I’ve had the opportunity to engage with people who can make a difference at Holyrood, Westminster and in the House of Lords about how to preserve brand Scotland. Getting Scottish gin the national protected status it needs and deserves is in its infancy. It’s going to take more than just me to make this happen and we’re still in the early days of discovering how many people it will involve.

I would like to think that the Scottish gin industry would welcome the additional protection and realise that this would help to safeguard the long-term future of Scotland’s spirit sector. The Scotch Whisky Association is a real good example of how an industry can control its provenance, and although not everyone is in favour of these controls, there’s no doubt that they have successfully protected Scottish whisky.

There’s a huge level of trust in brand Scotland and people, quite rightly and accurately, have this vision of our green rolling hills, amazing beef, incredible fruit and the highest quality gin. We owe it to our producers and to our consumers to protect this imagery within the food and spirits world.

Windswept landscapes, rugged coastlines and a new cohort of distilleries: it can only be Islay. Cask & Still explores the enduring appeal of the island’s whiskies

Written by Kristiane Sherry

TREASURE T

ravelling to Islay can be a precarious affair.

The Hebridean island lies just 75 miles from Glasgow, but disembarking there feels like arriving in another world.

Only accessible by plane or ferry, a trip to the island and its soon-tobe thirteen distilleries is wrought with weather-related cancellations, unpredictable ferry schedules and turbulence for the brave folks who choose to travel by air. Even King Charles once famously overshot the runway on landing. It’s an effort to

get there, but it’s well worth it.

The journey to Islay is considered a whisky pilgrimage by many. And for good reason. Not only do its distilleries – nine of which are producing spirit at the time of writing – make some of the world’s greatest whisky, the island itself is breathtakingly beautiful.

Vast sweeping expanses of sand give way to rocky outcrops. Small towns set around picturesque bays offer remarkable seafood, vibrant conversation and some of the most homely pubs on earth. All of this goes just a fraction of the way

ISLAND

Paved in gold: Islay will soon to be home to thirteen distilleries.

to explaining why the single malts themselves are just so highly regarded.

THE SOUGHT-AFTER SPIRIT

Even as a self-proclaimed Islay fan, it s di cult to articulate ust why Islay whisky holds the enchantment it does. From the unpeated Bunnahabhain in the north to the ﬁercely ﬁery Lagavulin-Laphroaig-Ardbeg trio perched on the most southerly coastline, there’s a fascination, enthusiasm, infatuation. And added value too? Perhaps so. On 3 October 2023, one of the leading Scotch whisky players, Chivas Brothers, announced it was to build its inaugural distillery on the island.

First, some context. Many feel the island is already at capacity when it comes to distilling. There’s a shortage enthusiasm, infatuation. And added

Raising a glass to helping the community; GlenWyvis

Clockwise from top left: Ardbeg whisky; inside the Chivas distillery; Ardbeg sits on the rugged Islay coast; a bottle of Ardbeg Uigeadail.

of housing for workers, for example. Infrastructure is stretched. Surely an island with a population of just over 3,300 people and full employment is literally saturated in whisky?

And there’s more. The site chosen by Chivas Brothers is Gartbreck Farm. Set by the waters of Loch Indaal south of Bowmore and on the opposite shoreline to Bruichladdich, it occupies a glorious spot. It’s also a location that was granted planning permission for a distillery way back in 2014.

Jean Donnay from France’s Glann ar Mor Distillery had tried to make his own Islay whisky dreams a reality. He was allegedly scuppered by Hunter Laing, the company that went

on to build Ardnahoe Distillery on the other side of the island.

At the time, rivalry was mooted. The race to become the island’s ninth distillery was heating up, and it was argued there wasn’t capacity for both makers. But any sense of sabotage seems to have cooled – Chivas Brothers is now in possession of the site.

The vision from the Pernod Ricard subsidiary is strong. The

‘THE LACK OF AN ISLAY DISTILLERY WAS A NOTABLE CHINK IN THEIR ARMOUR’

new distillery will be a carbonneutral producer the ﬁrst on Islay. Peated spirit – the style synonymous with the island, even though not all use the fuel – will ﬂow from the stills.

Brian MacAulay, the company’s malt distilling and operations director, even grew up here.

‘I’m proud that I can bring my professional experience and personal understanding of Islay together as part of this project,’ he tells me. Known for its comprehensive Scotch portfolio, the lack of an Islay distillery was a notable chink in the company’s armour.

‘Islay was arguably the missing piece,’ he acknowledges.

‘Adding a whisky with the island s iconic proﬁle to our

portfolio has been a goal of ours for some time ut it was a matter of ﬁnding the right opportunity to formalise our plans to esta lish a distillery there.

ccording to ac ulay the plans had een in the ackground for a num er of years and the announcement in October represented a long term am ition for hivas. e stressed that the company hopes to become as much a part of the fabric of the community as it has in peyside and rkney.

s a usiness decision it seems like an astute one.

hatter around the distillery news reached fever pitch on whisky social media circles. nd the announcement comes at a time that the company is riding high. In its full year results to une hivas rothers posted sales gains taking it to a ten year high. ill the new Islay distillery continue that momentum?

It depends on what they

do with the distillery states ames ussell senior sales manager at ilroy s of oho who works with private clients. I wouldn t say it would increase their standing ust ecause they have an Islay distillery or have planning permission to. or him it will always depend on the output. eople always uy uality.

e s looking eyond single malts. aol Ila a long cele rated Islay maker sees most of its production set aside for lending. ohnnie alker is where the value is ussell states. hile hivas doesn t have a smoky ehemoth lend y way of ohnnie alker lack a el the distillery could well ecome a useful link in the supply chain. fter all sources in the whisky rumour mill have mooted potential supply issues of peated malt from iageo s ort llen facility from onwards.

ISLAY CONSTRAINTS

upply was very much front of mind for ukhinder ingh when he announced plans for li ir istillers ortintruan site. urrently under construction the team roke ground ust outside ort llen in . pirit is e pected to ﬂow from the stills in .

Top left: Lagavulin Distillery. Left: Lagavulin’s 12YO Islay

Single Malt Scotch Whisky. Above: The current working distilleries across Islay.

LAGAVULIN

ARDBEG

LAPHROAIG

ARDNAHOE

CAOLILA BUNNAHABHAIN

BOWMORE

‘It was mainly because we had brands that were Islay focused and supply from distillers became limited so we could not grow our brands,’ says Singh. He’d initially created Port Askaig and Elements of Islay using independently bottled whisky from the island. ‘It is possible to create a peated whisky anywhere but the peat on the island is different to other parts of Scotland and this is a distinguishing factor of the terroir of Islay.’

He speaks of the ‘Islay legacy’ underpinning the island’s appeal.

‘Currently demand exceeds supply. None of the distillers forecasted that their whiskies would become so popular,’ he continues.

‘When you land on the island, the romance of visiting the distilleries in remote locations is beautiful but it is the people who work at these distilleries and the service industries that support the island such as in bars and hotels, that actually make the island what it is.’

It’s something front of mind as the distillery build progresses. Elixir will build 16 new houses and is actively working with the community where it can. ‘Most of the community is in support of the project, we get regular messages of support ingh a rms.

Where then does this appeal lie?

Both Singh and the Chivas Brothers machine (perhaps iconically Singh sold his Whisky Exchange empire to Pernod Ricard in 2021 and acquired Speyside’s Tormore Distillery from the same business in 2022) are commercially sensible. There’s a strong case that with the infrastructure constraints and concerns around a crowded market, the investments just don’t stack up. That’s where Islay’s value only makes sense beyond the ﬁnancials. This is a place you

feel as much as you taste or buy.

‘Anything with a cult following becomes expensive,’ Milroy’s Russell states. In his experience, prices are going up – and he doesn’t see more spirit coming online quelling that. Islay single malt is inherently rare. And its charm isn’t going anywhere.

‘I don’t think there’s a risk of the Islay cult being diluted,’ he continues. Generally speaking, the spirit is just too good. Islay whisky lovers will stop at nothing to bolster their collection or simply enjoy the spirit. ‘Nothing else will do.’

From top: Checking on the stills at Ardbeg Distillery; Lagavulin Distillery is home to four pot stills.

Set amidst the scenic charm of Lochlea Farm, Lochlea Distillery is a proudly independent, familyowned venture. Lochlea grow and harvest their own barley, using it to craft their distinctive single malt whisky. Unlike any preconceptions of Lowland style whisky, their spirit is bursting with delicious flavours of fresh fruit, with underlying cereal and

LOCHLEA

biscuit notes giving extra depth. The core single malt whisky, Our Barley, is made from and inspired by the barley grown on Lochlea Farm. Production Director John Campbell has carefully honed this recipe using his years of experience, with a com ination of first fill our on Oloroso Sherry and STR casks providing delicious flavours of orange, pear, cream soda, and macadamia nuts on the palate. Although the distillery is not open to the public, they have recently launched their 2024 Private Cask Programme. This is a wonderful opportunity for any whisky lover who would like to be a part of Lochlea’s story. As part of

this experience, you will be able to visit your cask at the distillery and receive annual samples from the warehouse to monitor your spirit’s progress.

For more information about the Private Cask Programme, please email casks@ lochleadistillery.com Lochlea Single Malt Whisky is stocked in over 200 retailers across the UK. To find your nearest stockist, please visit www. lochleadistillery.com/ stockists

www.lochleadistillery.com

A limited number of private casks are now available to purchase in Lochlea’s 2024 Private Cask Programme.

This is your chance to follow the incredible journey from new make spirit to single malt whisky over the next decade, with the opportunity to sample your spirit each year and visit your cask at Lochlea Distillery.

For more information, please email casks@lochleadistillery.com

BOLDLY BLENDED BY THE BORDERS

The Borders Distillery is the first Scotch whisky distillery in the Scottish Borders since 1837. The distillery opened in 2018 and now produces Scotch whisky, gin, and vodka, all from Borders barley that is grown within 35 miles of the distillery.

The distillery’s hometown of Hawick has a famous history of manufacturing – it’s where cashmere is king and where tweed was invented. There is a spirit of invention and enterprise in the town that inspires The Borders Distillery in everything they do. It was important to its founders to build the community into their distillery, and support regeneration efforts in their corner of rural Scotland. The distillery is an award-winning conversion of Hawick’s former electrical works, a prominent landmark in the town since 1903.

Beyond the distillery, they are proud to have long term partnerships with 12 local farmers within 35 miles of the distillery, through their Borders Growers and Distillers programme, in partnership with Simpsons Malt. This helps to keep the delivery of their barley as eco-friendly as possible, whilst also supporting the local economy.

TheWhisky Workshop Seriesis a limited release collection of experimental liquids where theevercuriousdistillers at The Borders Distillery challenge convention to createexceptionalblended whiskies.

WS:00 - NEW MAKE SPIRIT

WS:00 is the building block of everything and will one day transform into The Borders Distillery’s own single malt – the ﬁrst to leave the cottish orders since 1837. Winner of World Whiskies Awards Best New Make Spirit in Scotland.

Made from Scottish Borders barley – every grain grown within 30 miles of the distillery. Straight from the still at 63.5% ABV, this new make spirit holds a peppery ﬁre ut also carries a rich apple and pear character with underlying grassy notes.

WS:01 – BORDERS MALT & RYE

In 2019, The Borders Distillery made a small batch of rye spirit and matured it in the same fresh ﬁll bourbon casks as the malt, to create this remarkable and aromatic whisky. This is the ﬁrst lended cotch

whisky to leave the Scottish Borders since 1837, and the ﬁrst e pression of the orkshop eries from the Borders Distillery.

Each WS:01 Borders Malt & Rye bottle is individually numbered, and only 5,988 will ever be released for sale in the UK.

WS:02 – THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT

Fermentation is an essential part of determining flavour in cotch whisky. or this second edition of the Workshop Series, the distillers experimented with very short fermentations of 55 hours and very long ones of 150 hours. Both batches were then distilled twice and matured in first fill e our on barrels, before being married with single grain.

EachWS:02 The Long & Short of itbottle is individually numbered, with only 8,400 bottles being released for sale around the world.

Visit today and discover the spirit of the Borders.

thebordersdistillery.com @thebordersdistillery, Tel: 01450 374330 Hawick, TD9 7AQ

Whisky by numbers

Impress your friends with these facts and figures

The value of Scotch whisky topped £5.6bn in 2023

£5.6 BILLION

66,000 jobs are supported across the UK in the Scotch whisky sector

Exports of Scotch whisky to China were up 165%, compared with 2019

£7.1 BILLION

The equivalent of 1.35bn, 70cl bottles of Scotch whisky were exported last year...

66,000 ...that’s 43 bottles every second!

The Scotch whisky sector contributes £7.1bn to the UK economy annually

Exports of single malt Scotch whisky topped £2bn for the first time

The value of all Scotch whisky exports are down by 9.5% on 2022, but have risen by 14% compared with pre-pandemic levels in 2019

Source: All figures from the Scotch Whisky Association from January - December 2023. www.scotch-whisky.org.uk

THE MIX ALL IN

Planning your summertime BBQ? We’re whisking you off to the Hebrides for some cocktail inspiration with Isle of Harris Distillery

BORRISDALE BRAMBLE

SERVE IN: Rocks glass

GNEISS NEGRONI #1

MARITIME MOJITO

SERVE IN: Rocks glass

GARNISH: Fresh berries

25ml Isle of Harris Gin

25ml lemon juice

15ml simple syrup

25ml Crème de Mure

Soda water

Crushed Ice

SERVE IN: Highball

GARNISH: Lemon wheel

35ml Isle of Harris Gin

25ml white port

20ml bergamot liqueur

Lemon wheel

Cubed ice

METHOD: Pour the gin, lemon, and simple syrup into a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake hard for ten seconds. Strain into rocks glass with crushed ice. Slowly pour over the Crème de Mure in a circular motion and top with soda for a fresh fizz. Garnish with fresh berries.

(Upgrade your drink to a Bramble Royale by adding Champagne or sparkling wine).

METHOD: Pour all the ingredients into a mixing glass. Add cubed ice and stir for 10-15 seconds. Strain the ingredients into a rocks glass, add a large ice block. Garnish with a lemon wheel.

GARNISH: Lime and mint

50ml Isle of Harris Gin

25ml lime juice

25ml sugar syrup

Walter Gregor Tonic Water

Mint leaves

Ice

METHOD: Add ice and mint leaves to your glass. Pour in your sugar syrup, lime juice and Isle of Harris Gin. Stir these ingredients to get the most out of the flavours. Add the Walter Gregor Tonic Water to taste. Garnish with a lime wheel and enjoy.

THE MACHAIR

SERVE IN: Highball

GARNISH: Raspberries and rose petals

50ml Isle of Harris Gin

SANDY SEILEBOST

Elderflower cordial (add to personal taste)

Fentimans Cloudy Victorian

Lemonade

Cubed ice

SERVE IN: Rocks glass

GARNISH: Orange wedge

50ml Isle of Harris Gin

100ml Orange Tonic Water

50ml runny honey

Ice

METHOD: Pour ingredients into a highball glass over ice. Add raspberries and top with rose petals to garnish.

GREAT YELLOW BUMBLE BEE

SERVE IN: Copa

METHOD: Pour ingredients into a tumbler glass and stir well. Add ice and garnish with an orange wedge.

GARNISH: Edible flower

50ml Isle of Harris Gin

25ml lemon juice

25ml runny honey

Ice

METHOD: Pour ingredients into cocktail shaker and shake well over ice. Strain into copa glass and garnish with edible flower. Sláinte!

The award-winning Isle of Harris Gin is made in Tarbert, the Outer Hebrides. It is distilled in a small copper still known as ‘The Dottach’, before being bottled and sealed by hand. Isle of Harris Gin is made using a key local ingredient – sugar kelp seaweed – which is gathered sustainably by hand from local sea-lochs, giving its distinct maritime flavour. The distillery has also released their first single malt, ‘The Hearach’. harrisdistillery.com

Strength to strength

Singapore’s whisky scene has taken off in recent years, with particular attention falling on the old and rare end of the market

Written by Blair Bowman

Singapore, a vibrant metropolis known for its futuristic skyline and culinary scene, has quietly transformed into a haven for serious whisky enthusiasts. While the tiny island nation has long served as a distribution hub for Scotch whisky into neighbouring Asian countries, particularly mainland China, the whisky scene in Singapore has truly taken off in recent years.

Despite its compact size, Singapore boasts a major and long-standing presence as a signiﬁcant cotch whisky e port market. This can partly be attributed to its free-port status allowing duty and ta free storage of goods. This is a strong attraction for whisky brands seeking to enter Asian markets and utilise Singapore as a central hub for onward distribution. Data from the Scotch Whisky Association shows that in 2022, Singapore ranked as the third largest e port destination y value with a signiﬁcant increase to million from million in .

Singapore’s own whisky scene now has a particular focus on the old and rare end of the

whisky market. A decade ago blended whisky in highballs were the most common way whisky was enjoyed in Singapore, however since then the level of appreciation of single malt whisky has really taken off in an enormous way making it somewhat of a whisky Mecca for connoisseurs and collectors.

This shift from blended whisky to single malt whisky has been driven by a rising disposable income as Singapore’s economy has boomed. But it has also been driven by a growing appreciation of single malt whisky with several whisky clubs, whisky festivals and events allowing consumers to gain a deeper understanding and appreciation of whisky.

Today, Singapore has a really thriving community of both whisky connoisseurs and newcomers. This growing passion for whisky has also contri uted to an e citing and vi rant whisky bar scene. In 2007, Quaich Bar Collector opened at aterfront la a and has over whiskies to try. It is regarded as the ﬁrst whisky bar in Singapore and helped pave the way for others to follow.

The sleeping giant: Singapore is quietly making its mark on the whisky scene.

There are now well over 25 specialist whisky bars in Singapore offering a world-class level of whisky service and expertise. Founded in 2010, the Auld Alliance is a worldrenowned whisky bar. With over 1,500 drams to choose from, it is a destination for whisky aﬁcionados looking to try once in a lifetime old and discontinued bottlings or rare, decades-old single cask bottlings from niche or obscure independent bottlers.

La Maison Du Whisky, one of the leading distributors of whisky in France, has an impressive outpost in

‘There are now well over 25 specialist whisky bars in Singapore’

Singapore housing a very well curated whisky retail space as well as a whisky tasting bar.

The growth and appetite for single malt whisky in particular and the greater understanding of single cask whisky has even led to independent bottlers establishing themselves in Singapore. Notably, The Single Cask Bar Singapore which does what it says on the tin. Opened in 2015 a short walk from The Auld Alliance, the bar’s key focus has been and always will be on single cask bottlings. As well as their bar in Singapore, which focuses on offering their own distinctive

Clockwise from top left: Whisky tasting has never been so luxurious [Quaich Bar Collector]; the Quaich Bar Collector boasts over 500 whiskies; some of the Waterfront Plaza bar’s top tipples; Brass Lion Distillery; Brass Lion whisky.

single cask bottles, the parent company (known simply as The Single Cask) now has a major bottling and maturation facility in Glenrothes, in Scotland.

As well as these now well-established whisky bars, Singapore has seen a relatively new cocktail ar scene ﬂourish.

In the most recent publication of Asia’s 50 Best Cocktail Bars, 11 out of the 50 were bars in Singapore, including three bars in the top ten: Jigger & Pony (2nd), Nutmeg & Clove (7th), and Sago House (10th). In the ranking of the 50 best bars in the world, Jigger & Pony are currently ranked 14th. The Singapore cocktail scene offers a wide array of experiences from speakeasy-style bars to rooftop bars with views of the iconic Marina Bay Sands.

Singapore is also home to The Grande Whisky Museum which has a collection of 7,000 vintage and rare bottles of whisky. The Grande Whisky Museum holds two Guinness World Records for their extensive collection including ‘Most Valuable Whisky/ Whiskey Collection’ and the ‘Most Valuable Bottle of Whisky/Whiskey’.

With such a passion for whisky in Singapore it is no surprise that there are now a few fledgling whisky distilleries too. In September 2023, Brass Lion Distillery launched what is elieved to e the first single malt whisky distilled, matured and bottled in Singapore. ith no specific guidelines on whisky production in Singaporean law, the team

decided to follow Scotch whisky regulations, releasing the whisky as a small limited bottling after three years of maturation.

Meanwhile, Compendium Spirits, founded in 2019, has been

another innovative Asian whisky-producing country.

Singapore’s journey from a whisky transit hu to a ﬂourishing whisky destination has been remarkable. With a passionate community,

‘Their success could establish Singapore as another innovative Asian whisky-producing country’

producing ingapore s ﬁrst single grain whisky, made from fragrant Hom Mali rice. In December 2021 they launched Hom Mali Single Grain Rice Whisky and has now released a cask strength version too.

These nascent distilleries represent a bold step forward for Singapore’s whisky scene. Their success could usher in a new era of invention and establish Singapore as

diverse bars, and the emergence of local distilleries, the future of Singapore’s whisky scene looks bright.

As this exciting scene evolves, one thing is certain: Singapore has cemented its place as a whisky paradise in Southeast Asia, offering a world of discovery to be explored for both seasoned enthusiasts and curious newcomers alike.

Below: Jamie Koh of Brass Lion Distillery with a cask of Singapore’s first whisky.

CURLY COO BAR

An award-winning whisky bar situated just a short walk from the city centre. This is Stirling’s only whisky bar.Supported by local customers along with many visitors from across the globe. On offer is a selection of over

300 Scottish malt whiskies for you to choose from.

Here, it is possible to have a tour of Scotland across the whisky regions. Whether you are a seasoned whisky drinker, or new to the world of Scottish single malts, the Coo will offer you an enriching experience.With regular whisky tastings and events held throughout the year. Private whisky tastings are also possible, by arrangement.

There is much to offer the non-whisky drinker at Curly Coo too. Local beers from Harviestoun and Williams Brothers breweries. Dark Island beer from Orkney brewery. Scottish cider, Thistly Cross from Dunbar and a selection of bottled beers. A good selection of Scottish gins and wine. Various soft drinks are also available.

A warm welcome awaits you, when you visit Curly Coo Bar.

A cosy wee bar with a stove on in the winter and sometimes on in our Scottish summers too!

Curly Coo Bar, 51 Barnton Street, Stirling FK8 1HH Open every day.

Tel: 01786 447191 Email: curlycoo@ymail.com

Written by: Federica Stefani

Barley

It’s a key ingredient in whisky production, but just how much do you know about John Barleycorn?

Alongside water and yeast, malted barley is part of the holy trinity for the creation of Scotland’s national drink.

account what is already in the soil.

The focus on terroir and the flavours imparted by barley in whisky is relatively new, but more and more distillers are keen to find flavours and difference points by experimenting with varieties and placing the focus back on locally-grown barley.

Cask & Still spoke to Colin Johnston and Rebecca Gee (sales and marketing director and grain procurement manager at Crisp Malt) to learn more about malted barley.

WHICH BARLEY?

A large percentage of the barley grown in the UK is malted and used in brewing and distilling, with malting varieties making up around 60% of the barley grown in the UK. However, barley used for distilling has to meet specific requirements.

‘What we’re looking for is a really low-protein barley, which is quite difficult to obtain,’ says Rebecca. ‘When we’re making malt for the distilling industry, we’re looking for as much starch as possible that can then be converted into alcohol. The more protein that’s in the grain, the less starch there will be.’

This requires minimal use of fertilisers and skilled management from the grower taking into

Another key element is the presence of glycosidic nitrile (GN), a compound which through the malting and distilling process can turn into ethyl carbamate, a process contaminant that is recognised by the International Agency for Research and Cancer as ‘probably carcinogenic’. Therefore distillers will only accept barley varieties which are classed as GN non-producers or low GN-producers.

‘Because of these requirements, farmers are quite limited in the varieties they can grow,’ Rebecca continued. ‘So, that close relationship with farmers is really important.

BARLEY VARIETIES

Distilleries can only work with barley varieties which have been approved by the Malting Barley Committee (MBC).

According to Colin, every decade sees a new variety dominating the market, providing additional benefits for the farmer and/or the distiller, such as higher yield or better resistance.

Currently, the dominant variety is Laureate, its predecessor was Concerto, and another variety which was favoured in recent years was Diablo.

Colin explains: ‘New independent distillers are looking for a point of difference, and they might seek alternative varieties, or malt

specifications outside the norm, some of which would be more commonly associated with brewers or exploring older barley varieties as well as roasted and crystallised malts.

‘As maltsters, we have a range of heritage varieties such as Chevalier, which is from the 1800s and was traditionally used in brewing, or Maris Otter.

‘They are genetically very different to modern varieties, and with a big difference like that, we do see quite a difference in flavour. And that’s very exciting!’

or they might have been kilned in a slightly different way. And that’s where we get into malts like Munich, Dextrin and Vienna. It’s not an area that was touched over the last 40-odd years in the Scottish industry, but it’s now starting to become quite popular and even some of the bigger producers are getting on board.’

SPRING OR WINTER?

There are two different types of malting barley: spring barley and winter barley.

‘Spring barley is the majority

‘Winter barley is usually used for brewing and, because of the longer growing period, it has a more complex flavour. For distilling, what we’re mainly looking for is starch, so winter barley is usually not used for malt whisky – however, more distillers are looking into how that may impact whisky flavour.’

Winter barley is not massively suitable for the Scottish climate.

Another issue is the lack of a non-GN winter barley variety in the UK, although Colin says that one has been developed and is under evaluation.

Malting varieties make up around 60 of the barley grown in t he uk

‘Some distillers are starting to include our broad classification of ‘speciality malts’ – these are malts that have been produced using different techniques, where we’ve either roasted or crystallised the malts in the final stages of production,

of what is grown in Scotland,’ Rebecca explains.

‘This is planted usually around April and then harvested in August, whereas winter barley is planted in November and then harvested in July or early August.’

When talking about seasons, we cannot refrain from talking about climate change.

‘We are definitely seeing a change in the weather pattern,’ Rebecca explains. ‘Generally we’d experience quite a steady year for rainfall, but this year we are getting long stretches of rain and of drought. Because it has been so wet, farmers are struggling to plant the spring barley. So we are expecting late crops going into the ground.’

Find out more about the impact of climate change, sustainability, the growing regions of barley and more in our next issue!

The ticking time bomb

of whisky cask fraud

Some protection against whisky cask fraud has been put in place, but it’s not nearly enough to prevent companies making a quick buck at the expense of investors

Written by Mark Littler

In spring 2024 the Scottish Parliament heard about the signiﬁcant dangers of whisky cask fraud to the cotch whisky industry. This follows the anuary deadline for adhering to the latest Advertising Standards gency legislation that rings the advertisement of whisky casks as an investment in line with other investments.

ut why do the Scottish Parliament and the ASA care a out the sale of a few casks In 2023 Scotch whisky made up of all

food and drink e ports. everages and tobacco are listed together at position ten in the Top e ported commodities from the ut at . illion cotch whisky is ust over half of that category. That ﬁgure also doesn t take into account the domestic sales o s tourism duty ta es and other value that it adds to the economy. hich is to say you may e surprised how important your favourite drink is to the economy.

WHY WHISKY CASKS?

hisky cask investment has een around since at least the 1990s and the foundations of the concept are simple the value of whisky in a cask tends to go up with age it is actually a bit more complicated than this in reality so if you re interested it is

important that you do your research ﬁrst please so if you purchase a cask you can sell it for a proﬁt in the future.

istilleries have always sold casks to each other and independent ottlers and so in the s when rokers started selling casks to the pu lic some distilleries were happy to o lige. lus in the s the industry was recovering from multiple temporary or e tended closures. irect sales of casks to the pu lic allowed reopened distilleries to uild their customer ase and release capital from casks they otherwise couldn t make money on for three or more years.

nfortunately like any area where there is money to e made there are also criminals willing to e ploit the truth for their own gain. In the epartment of Trade Industry petitioned the igh ourt for an order to wind up The apier

Like any area where there is money to be made, there are also criminals willing to exploit the truth for their own gain

pirit ompany which had een selling acallan casks for . In the erious raud o ce also egan an investigation into avendish ine erchants later known as amilton pirits anagement. Three men were arrested and arclaycard is understood to have paid out at least . million to investors – although this is ust a portion of the . million raised y avendish amilton.

It s not ust an issue that is conﬁned to the past. In a ritish man was arrested y the I for defrauding more than million from elderly mericans who were promised misleading returns from whisky cask investment schemes.

THE MARKET THAT HAS OUTSTRIPPED SCAMMERS

The irony of the whisky market is that some casks have increased in value so signiﬁcantly over the last to years that even those who overpaid could have made a proﬁt if they held onto the cask for long enough.

In the media covered a single privately owned Macallan 1988 cask that sold for over £1 million. But with a reported purchase price of over there s a good chance that person was scammed and would have lost money if he d tried to sell it in the s or early s.

The massive shift in the market in the s means

there is an abundance of positive data around the secondary whisky market for both bottles and casks. In the night rank inde released data that showed its rare whisky ottle inde had increased y over ten years and that s ust one source of data.

While that data and the million pound e ample a ove are all real, the reality is that the market has evolved. Those kinds of increases are unlikely to be seen again for current investors but some cask sales teams are still using them to enlist unwary investors. ith the night rank data there is an additional issue that the data is speciﬁcally for a very

targeted selection of bottles of whisky, not casks. But a market where knowledge is one-sided is ideal for scammers.

LIMITED REGULATION

What started out as a pretty niche market targeted mostly at whisky fans, has grown signiﬁcantly over the last decade. The prevalence of targeted online advertising means cask investment companies can reach a highly engaged audience for a relatively low cost. Until recently they have been completely unregulated in how they advertise. While many companies operate legitimately, the lack of regulation leaves the market, and its customers, open

for exploitation by less scrupulous businesses.

In 2022 the ASA began investigations into Blackford Casks Ltd/Whisky Investment Partners and London Cask Co.. Both were accused of four issues, which included use of misleading data, including the Knight Frank Index, unrelated/ misleading logos, such as logos for awards they didn’t win, and others. In August 2023 all four issues were upheld against both companies and a new enforcement notice governing the way whisky cask investment companies could advertise was announced.

The ASA’s Enforcement Notice for Whisky Cask Investment came into effect from 2 January 2024. It brings the advertisement of cask investments in line with other investments to provide some protection for customers. However, this is only in terms of how they are advertised; not how they are owned.

Ownership of casks remains a risk for customers in an unregulated industry. Casks are traditionally sold via a delivery order, which transfers ownership at the warehouse level. However, many modern cask sales companies are not using delivery orders, which leaves purchasers with little to no actual control over their assets. It also leaves casks open to misselling (where a cask is sold under incorrect details) and ponzi schemes (where the same cask is sold multiple times).

THE REPUTATION OF A DRAM

A quick look online shows one whisky investment company that claims to have over 20,000 casks under ownership. With an average new make cask available to the public from around £2,500, the total under management by that single unregulated company could conservatively be worth upward of £50 million.

If we assume the casks are not all new make the total is more likely to be over £100 million.

It is not a huge leap to see that the totals held by multiple cask investment companies across the industry has ecome signiﬁcant.

Even assuming no malpractice, that is a lot of wealth and savings being held and managed by unregulated companies.

On 17 April 2024 Fergus Ewing spoke to the Scottish Parliament on the topic of whisky cask investment. He discussed both the industry’s importance to the UK and Scottish economies and the need to protect the global reputation of

‘Ownership of casks remains a risk in an unregulated industry’

the brand as ‘a scandal could seriously damage the reputation of Scotch whisky worldwide’.

Grass roots initiatives are also important, which is why Felipe Schrieberg and I set up the free online resource ProtectYourCask.com.

Ultimately the feeling from many in the industry is that something needs to change at a more fundamental level. Ewing believes the Scottish Government is key to getting the basic protection needed to protect customers and the industry. ‘The initiative of the Scottish government pushing for a solution to this could give it the impetus it needs,’ said Ewing.

We can only hope the protection comes before news of the next ‘serious’ scam breaks.

JUST WHISKY AUCTIONS

Just Whisky Auctions is revolutionising the world of whisky collecting. This online auction platform offers a seamless experience for sellers and buyers with its impressive features. Firstly, sellers can benefit from 0% commission, allowing them to maximise their profits. Additionally, the platform ensures fast payments, guaranteeing a hassle-free transaction process. For buyers, the appeal lies in the convenience of worldwide shipping, enabling whisky enthusiasts from all corners of the globe to participate. Moreover, Just Whisky Auctions conducts monthly auctions, providing a consistent stream of exciting opportunities to expand one’s whisky collection.

Telephone Number: 01383 745665

Website: www.just-whisky.co.uk

Connoisseurs’

SELECTION

Befuddled by the dizzying range of drinks on offer? Feel the fog of confusion lift with our nine-page guide to what the real experts drink

Highland, Islands & Campbeltown

Campbeltown

RAASAY PEATED EXBORDEAUX RED WINE

SINGLE CASK SERIES

SINGLE MALT SCOTCH

61.6

This whisky takes me on a wild journey. Each sip lands on a deeper layer of flavour, it is absolutely incredible. The multiple cask finish is probably the reason for this. One of the best drams I have ever had.

NOSE: Sharper fruits of blackberries and raspberries. Wood smoke.

PALATE: Sweet peat with a full mouth feel. Rich and meaty like a beef bourguignon.

FINISH: A medium length finish with subtle phenols, slowly pulling to dark chocolate and oak.

A total classic in the oloroso department. It is super smooth, slips down very comfortably and I cannot fault it. No water needed with this, it arrives exactly as it was intended.

NOSE: Dried fruits and rich Christmas cake.

PALATE: Soft and smooth rhythm in the mouth with perfumed sweetness.

FINISH: A long and calm finish coming back to the notes from the nose with a touch of pepper.

KILKERRAN HEAVILY PEATED BATCH 9

SINGLE MALT SCOTCH

50 59.2

A dram that is bursting with energy and youth. For me it needs a touch of water to lower the tempo in the glass and let it settle. An impressive whisky, not for the faint-hearted! It feels like a walk through a working farm.

NOSE: Warm leather and wet hay. Smells like a riding stables (in a good way!)

PALATE: Sweet liquorice/fennel. The peat hits hard and you’ll know about it.

FINISH: Surprisingly long. Dry cereals and malts keeping you in the field.

LOCHLEA OUR BARLEY

LOWLAND SINGLE MALT

40 (APPROX.) 46

Lowlands

BLADNOCH THE DRAGON SERIES ITERATION I: THE FIELD

LOWLAND SINGLE MALT

110 46.7

Lochlea certainly seems to go from strength to strength with their whisky, but I’d like to take a moment and highlight their core release: the Our Barley. It’s a fantastic dram which is sure to delight many – I could see this being an excellent house whisky to bring out to friends and family.

NOSE: Very fresh with notes of barley sugar, petrichor and summer grass.

PALATE: Just like the nose, the palate is really fresh as well and it’s a very approachable dram with layers of grassiness, barley, sweetness, oak and soft green fruits.

FINISH: Fruity and soft like a memory of springtime. The fresh sensation continues all the way from the nose and throughout the finish.

LOWLAND SINGLE MALT

59 59

The first iteration of a collection of five bottles where each whisky is inspired by different stages of single malt production. I first tried this at a tasting of the whole range and this one really stood out to me with its complexity. The spirit takes centre stage, rather than the casks.

NOSE: Green apples, barley, grass and soft oak.

PALATE: Malted barley, fresh pears, a soft grassy fruitiness which balances the sweetness. Topped off with robust oak.

FINISH: Sweetness mixes with oak spice and grassy bitterness.

GLASGOW 1770 MANZANILLA SHERRY CASK (UNPEATED 1)

I’ve found myself curious about the releases from the Glasgow Distillery Co, and in particular the unpeated ones. This limited single cask release from Glasgow Distillery Co is the first release of spirit matured in a Manzanilla Sherry Cask and I certainly hope there will be more to come. This is the kind of whisky I’d like to sip on a summer’s evening or perhaps along with some tapas from the BBQ.

NOSE: Fresh leather, robust oak, nutty fruits and springtime forest.

PALATE: Dark and inviting with sweet stewed fruits, zingy wood spice and leathery oak which almost leaves a smoky sensation on the finish.

FINISH: The warming spice and oak lingers and the memory of the balance of flavour invites you for another sip to see what more hides in the layers of this dram.

Speyside

MURRAY MCDAVID ‘CASK

CRAFT’ AUCHROISK

BOURBON QUARTER CASK FINISH

SINGLE MALT

34 44.5

A relatively new, entry-level range from independent bottlers Murray McDavid, focusing on lesser-known distilleries and finished in different cask types. This Auchroisk was finished in bourbon quarter casks.

NOSE: The nose is light with toffee, butterscotch, barley sugar, a touch of orange citrus and nutty notes.

PALATE: It starts sweet with light orange notes, then turns nutty with creamy fudge.

FINISH: The finish is soft, sweet and very easy.

A.D. RATTRAY CASK COLLECTION

SINGLE MALT 64.5

GLENALLACHIE 15YO

A.D. Rattray are a quietly understated independent bottler that consistently releases excellent whiskies. GlenAllachie is a distillery that has grown popular in the last few years after whisky legend Billy Walker bought it from Chivas. It is whiskies like this that make you see why he saw it as a potential sleeping giant.

NOSE: Rich Christmas cake on the nose, with dried fruit, raisins, dates, winter spice and the darkest of chocolate.

PALATE: Focused and intense, with rich dried fruit, cherries, cardamom and dark chocolate.

FINISH: The finish is long, with dark fruit and gentle spice.

LITTLE BROWN DOG GLENBURGIE 2014

ARMAGNAC CASK FINISH

SINGLE MALT

88 55.9

Little Brown Dog are a new breed of independent bottler – small, passionate and quirky. From their latest batch comes this rarely seen Glenburgie, a distillery renowned for producing complex spirits, the vast majority of which goes into the Ballantine’s blend.

NOSE: Sweet grape notes lead to vanilla fudge, then some soft orange and floral notes.

PALATE: The palate is creamy, with tarte tatin then nutty notes.

FINISH: The finish is long, gentle and sweet, with lingering baked apple and soft caramel.

MatthewM c Fadyen

CO-OWNER, THE GOOD SPIRITS CO., GLASGOW www.thegoodspiritsco.com Matt can usually be found at the helm of The Good Spirits Company on Glasgow’s Bath Street, hosting monthly whisky, gin and cocktail tastings.

Islay

CHAPTER 5

SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY

1,100 45.5

UK EXCLUSIVE

SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY

79.95 56.1

Caol Ila, meaning ‘the sound of Islay’ after the stretch of water it faces on Islay’s north east coast, is the largest distillery on the island. This whisky has spent the last nine months of its life in a Palo Cortado sherry cask before being bottled by independent bottlers James Eadie.

NOSE: Salty and seaweedy to start, then there’s some tar, barbecue smoke and a sweet maltiness.

PALATE: Smoky bacon crisps and thick peat give way to singed citrus peels, crème brûlée and juicy dark fruits.

FINISH: Lingering coastal smoke, dried fruits and a gingery zing.

This is the fifth and final instalment of Laphroaig’s Ian Hunter Story, released to celebrate the final member of the Johnston family who owned and managed the distillery between 1908 and 1944. This limited edition was matured in ex-bourbon barrels and Pedro Ximénez hogsheads.

NOSE: Classic medicinal notes and gentle rolling peat smoke, with floral tones and juicy tropical fruits.

PALATE: Aromatic wood smoke and bonfire embers, then overripe banana and pineapple with a drying oakiness.

FINISH: Sweet peat smoke lingers, with creamy vanilla and a light nuttiness.

ARDBEG AN OA

SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY

48.99 46.6

An Oa, named after the Mull of Oa on Islay’s south western coastline, was added to Ardbeg’s core range in 2017 – the first permanent addition in over a decade. This no-age-statement expression is matured in a combination of ex-bourbon, charred virgin oak and Pedro Ximénez sherry casks.

NOSE: Sweet and citrusy initially, with maritime notes and waves of peat smoke. Butterscotch and salted caramel too.

PALATE: Oily and citrusy with thick smoke, grilled pineapple and pepper.

FINISH: Dried fruits, spices and cigars.

Dr. Christopher White

HEAD OF PRIVATE CLIENTS AT BEAMISH INTERNATIONAL www.beamishinternational.com

Dr. Christopher White is an award-winning whisky writer, presenter, host and judge, with over 15 years’ experience in the industry. Beamish International is a global private client business specialising in advising on the acquisition of rare single malt whisky.

Blends

NOSE BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY

This was created by the Adelphi team to have a west coast character with a high malt content and a decent proportion of ex-sherry cask influence. Its name is a nod to the Maclean’s Nose landmark on the Ardnamurchan peninsula and to whisky legend Charles Maclean who mentored the blending team.

ISLE OF SKYE 30YO

299 40

Burnt citrus peel, sea salt and bonfire. Nectarine syrup. Lime marmalade. Hay bales. Coal bunker. Oily shed.

An absolutely fantastic, aged blend from the independently family-owned Ian Macleod Distillers.

Puffed rice. Homemade rice pudding. White chocolate. Bright citrus and lime pickle. Chantilly cream. Viennetta ice cream.

PALATE: Puffed rice. Homemade rice pudding. White chocolate. Bright citrus and lime pickle. Chantilly cream. Viennetta ice cream. Ferrero Rocher. Hessian. Burning heather. Smoked praline.

Ferrero Rocher. Hessian. Burning heather. Smoked praline.

FINISH: Long and smooth with a sweet salinity.

ELEMENTS OF ISLAY SHERRY CASK

69.99 54.5

NOSE: Vanilla and light oak on the nose with hints of Bakewell tart, coconut and a floral top note.

PALATE: Smooth and sweet, butter pastry mixed with fresh

malt, raisins, dates, syrup, liquorice and faint smoke.

FINISH: Creamy and luxurious.

Elements of Islay Sherry Cask is a blended malt whisky matured in sherry butts and hogsheads, with its components sourced from two renowned Islay distilleries – one from the north coast and one from the south. This dram never disappoints.

NOSE: Ginger, dark cherries and barbecue smoke.

PALATE: Candied orange, dark chocolate, crystallised ginger, citrus and smoked white fish.

FINISH: Smooth and long with coffee and bitter chocolate.

Robin Russell

OWNER, ROBBIE’S DRAMS WHISKY MERCHANTS, AYR robbieswhiskymerchants.com

Robbie’s Drams Whisky Merchants is an independent family-run business, situated in the seaside town of Ayr. Fine character, great whisky since 1984. Here Robin selects some of his favourite blended Scotch whiskies. nod and blending

JAMESON BLACK BARREL

IRELAND • IRISH WHISKEY

35-45 40

This is a triple distilled blend of small batch grain and single pot Irish whiskey. The barrels which are used are double charred (hence the ‘Black Barrel’) which adds to the richness and complexity.

NOSE: Delicious sweet toffee and caramel, creamy coconut and tropical fruits.

PALATE: A balance of nuttiness and light baking spices, such as nutmeg and cinnamon. Coconut lingers with some apricot and citrus.

Worldwide

MACALONEY’S CANADIAN

ISLAND PEATED SINGLE MALT

SPIRIT - PEATED MAC NA BRAICHE

FINISH: Smooth and pleasant long finish which has a mixture or wood, fruit and malt.

LANGATUN MADEIRA CASK FINISH

SWITZERLAND • SINGLE MALT

105 49.12

This comes from the Langatun Distillery in Switzerland. Only 525 bottles of this were produced and they come in a lovely 500ml bottle. It was distilled in 2016 and bottled in 2022.

NOSE: Sweet liquorice, heavy vanilla and caramellike with a rich toffee sauce, raisins and dates.

PALATE: Powerful sweetness with aniseed and sweet toffee. Continues to be rich like treacle. Then a punch of vanilla, like a Victoria sponge with too much vanilla in the mixture.

CANADA • PEATED SINGLE MALT SPIRIT

55-65 46

FINISH: Medium to long finish with honey and warmth. A pleasant waxy mouthfeel from a young dram and worth a try.

This peated spirit, created by Scotsman Graeme MacAloney of MacAloney’s Canadian Island Distillery, was crafted in charred Portuguese wine barriques. It is non-chill filtered and is no-age statement.

NOSE: Rich peat and burnt wood notes with hints of stewed rhubarb and burnt crumble topping.

PALATE: Waves of varnish, wood, and black and white pepperiness. With it some plums, under-ripe cherries and subtle malt/cocoa.

FINISH: Toasted rye bread and bitter blackcurrant jam. Medium, complex finish.

Gillian Kirkland

OWNER OF THE PIPER BAR AND WHISKY ENTHUSIAST www.thepiperbar.com

Gillian has owned the award-winning Piper Whisky Bar in Glasgow for eight years and is incredibly passionate about whisky. She is a collector and is currently experimenting with casks.

Distilling history

Pedro Buchanan is one of the proudest Scots you could come across. He’s also Mexican, born and bred in Oaxaca. Meet the man bringing mezcal to the motherland...

Written by Eilidh Tuckett

Pedro Walter Buchanan emerged as the unlikely star of BBC Scotland’s recent documentary, Meet the Clan, which charts the inauguration of Clan uchanan s latest chieftain the ﬁrst in nearly 400 years.

As executive of the international branch of the Clan Buchanan AGM, Pedro came to Scotland for the ceremony which saw John Michael Baillie-Hamilton Buchanan crowned –yes, literally crowned – chief.

Without much of a precedent to draw from, the whole process was more or less fabricated, loosely inspired by historical documents and a generous dollop of whimsy, spearheaded by the new chieftain’s gregarious wife.

The resulting celebration was an amusing collision of fact and ﬁction a fanciful reimagining of an ancient social system.

If there was an identiﬁa le theme it would be ‘anything goes, as long as it’s stamped with the clan regalia’ – which is where edro s e cal ﬁts in.

PWB, that’s Pedro Walter Buchanan, is the eponymous moniker that Pedro bestowed upon his mezcal.

While most mezcals are made and consumed

locally, rarely venturing further than the region in which they were bottled, PWB was international from the outset. Inspired by his Buchanan roots and presented as a gift at the inauguration, this burgeoning mezcal business isn’t your average side hustle.

Barbara Orton, producer and director of Meet the Clan, knows a big personality when she sees one, and there was no doubt in her mind about Pedro. 'I mean, his name alone told me that he was going to be a character – Pedro Buchanan!' she says. 'And boy, did he deliver in spades.' or a ﬁlm that hinges on the creative reimagining of archaic practices, Pedro is the perfect poster boy. A third-generation Scot, Pedro is Mexican by birth, but his Scottish heritage has played a strong hand in his life in more ways than one.

As a young lawyer, he was often told that he thought differently; that he had a speciﬁc rand of stubbornness, an unwavering commitment to his own beliefs that only his Scottish ancestry could account for.

before it was destroyed in the Clydebank Blitz.

Pedro wonders if his Scottish family members were involved in the whisky trade. Given his current pastime, this potential history feels pertinent.

If mezcal inspired by whisky sounds obscure, Pedro sells it well. His website describes PWB as a beverage for 'demanding and sophisticated connoisseurs’, a chinchin best reserved for chieftains rather than chums, I wonder.

A CLOSER LOOK

Mezcals are an excellent example of genuine artisanal production and have been since long before it was trendy.

PWB is the result of carefully treated pure organic agave and a centuriesold process.

First, the plant is roughly chopped and cooked in underground conic ovens heated by specially selected local wood.

The agave is then ground not by hand, but by hoof – a mule tows a large stone around the pit, crushing the plant further.

Those ancestors hailed from Greater Glasgow, and lived at Auchentoshan House, adjacent to the distillery of the same name,

When Pedro and I speak, however, it quickly becomes apparent that this couldn’t be further from his intentions – inclusion is the linchpin of PWB. The spirit was created out of Pedro’s desire to produce something that honoured both his Scottish and Mexican heritage, and he’s keen to stress that it s the oy he ﬁnds in the me cal community that he enjoys most.

Don Lorenzo Garcia and Don Silverio García Luis, mezcaliers who are widely regarded as Mexico’s best, are at the heart of this community. They’re also responsible for PWB, working under Pedro’s shrewd supervision to create this unique tipple that is pure liquid passion.

PWB far outperformed even their high standards; what started as a

Fermentation happens in wooden tubs, before being double distilled in copper stills and treated by a specialist Mezcalier.

The resulting liquid has a smoky depth not dissimilar to whisky, though unlike its Scottish cousin it is best enjoyed soon after the spirit is bottled.

Far left: Dealing with the raw materials. Left: Pedro Buchanan.

personal project became the ﬁrst me cal to e named ‘ultra-premium’ by Comercan, Mexico’s me cal uality control regulatory council. No mean feat for a country that produces roughly eight million litres of the stuff per year.

Now that I’m sure you’re feeling thirsty, where can you purchase PWB? As it stands, sampling PWB is a privilege afforded to the few – because it’s not for sale, yet.

full-time job, never mind

This is something Pedro is working on, but the gist is that to sell PWB in its native Mexico would be prohibitively expensive; the tax is simply too high, and there are too many hoops to jump through. Pedro lists off the certiﬁcations authorisations and permits involved… it could be a full-time job, never mind a hobby. I ask him if he’d consider it, he gestures to the roof over his head: ‘I need to pay my bills,’ he says. Fair enough.

the roof over his head: ‘I says. Fair enough. by trade and therefore

a way to launch PWB in two Mexican airports, and he hopes this will become a reality sooner rather than later.

The driving factor behind this project is not personal proﬁt. Instead he intends for a generous share of the proceeds to go towards the Clan Buchanan. He hopes to bolster the global community in which he ﬁnds so much meaning. Indeed, community seems to be Pedro’s guiding force. When we speak, he talks of late nights spent in good company at his Oaxaca pile his me cal serving as a potent nightcap for grateful friends. It s the est me cal in the world, I promise you,’ he says, and promises to send me some.

Much like whisky symbolises cotland me cal is irrevoca ly Mexican, and Pedro is a shining example of the two cultures.

Pedro is a transactional lawyer by trade and therefore a natural born negotiator – a useful skill in business. As such, he has worked out

His own claim to the Buchanan chieftainship, while legitimate, was never something Pedro considered pursuing. He is firm about this; believing resolutely that someone born and raised in Scotland is the only rightful heir. I just can’t help thinking that this infinitely charming charismatic e calier would be an excellent fit for modern Scotland, a country defined by its diaspora. And its drink.

From top: The grinding process; the distilling area; a bottle of PWB.

WOOROW’S OF EDINBURGH

Woodrow’s of Edinburgh was established in 2022 with a fully Bonded Warehouse in Leith, Edinburgh. The brand produces unique Scotch whisky bottled at cask strength, non-chill filtered and natural colour. Woodrow’s aims to discover incredible casks that are just too good to pass on. They source casks that have great potential but can be even further improved by enhancing flavour and complexity. To achieve this, wood is sourced carefully and paired with the cask and spirit for the best impact. All blending, re-casking and bottling is done in-house and every cask is unique.

For more info visit: woodrowswhisky.com

Unique scotch whisky bottled at cask strength, non-chill filtered and natural colour

| Lesley Gracie

It’s tough to create a unique, memorable gin in such a saturated market, but Hendrick’s Gin’s master distiller has the recipe for success

Written by Gilly Pickup

A Lesley Gracie MASTER DISTILLER:

fter she moved to Scotland with her husband in 1988, Lesley Gracie joined the technical team at familyowned whisky company William Grant & Sons where her role focused on whiskies and developing new liquids.

The then president, Charlie Gordon, asked her to create a new gin in the company’s two antique stills. Undaunted, Lesley set about producing such a gin, experimenting with distilling different ingredients com inations of flowers and roots, until she achieved what is the now distinctive endrick s flavour profile which of course included what were to ecome the rand s signature flavours –rose and cucumber.

‘Charlie saw an opportunity for gin to come back into favour again.’ she explains. ‘The cocktail culture was just starting to kick in, and obviously gin is a great

THE SHAPE OF GIN

Lesley, with her Rapunzellike hair, also sees flavours as shapes. For her, Hendrick’s Gin has a wonderful round shape with no sharp elements coming from it.

Left: Lesley in the Hendrick’s still room. Above: Hendrick’s Flora Adora Gin.

ingredient for so many cocktails.’

So, what was it that catapulted Lesley into the world of spirits?

‘I’ve always been really into plants and ﬂowers she says. I was very sciency at school and later studied chemistry. I actually started off working in the pharmaceutical industry, where a big part of my role was experimenting with ways to mask itter ﬂavours of medicine to make it more palatable.

‘After moving to Scotland it wasn’t long before I moved into product development and began playing around with developing various new liquids.’

When Charlie asked Lesley to make the gin that would become Hendrick’s, he gave her two stills that he’d bought at auction years earlier. One was a rare 1948 Carterhead, the other an antique Bennett dating from 1860. Although the same eleven dried botanicals were used in each still, Lesley noted the distillate was different.

‘Of course, Charlie knew that was going to happen, he was an amazing guy,’ she laughs. ‘As the Carterhead steamed the botanicals above its lofty neck the spirit was light and fragrant, while the Bennett still steeped the botanicals in its round base and had a deep richness to it. It was only by marrying the two distillates that you got this gin that was both light and fragrant and deep and rich. ut it was also figuring out how to incorporate the cucumber and rose into the gin. If you’ve ever applied heat to a cucumber, you’ll know that it turns into a black floppy mess and smells like cabbage, so we needed to add it afterwards in order to get those fresh green notes and delicate floral rose notes we wanted.

‘That’s why Hendrick’s is a distilled gin, not a London Dry Gin. However, category or convention was never very important to us; having something with ags of ﬂavour and character was what we were after.’

Hendrick’s Gin Palace in Girvan,

Clockwise from top left: The Hendrick’s stillhouse; Hendrick’s Orbium Gin; Lesley; stills of all sizes.

52 | Lesley Gracie

‘The inner sanctum of the distillery is my lab, where I get to experiment’

on Scotland’s rugged South Ayrshire coast, is a unique place. There, in one of her greenhouses, Lesley grows Mediterranean plants to enable her to experiment with otanicals and ﬂavours while another simulates a tropical rainforest.

pair of hot houses ﬂank a towering palm house allowing us to cultivate the unusual as we grow a plethora of exotic and unusual otanicals not availa le commercially,’ she explains. ‘This facility allows us not only to meet the growing demand for endrick s going forwards but allows me more space to experiment.’

The Gin Palace houses six stills. ‘The leaders of this particular ensemble are the original pair of stills now given pride of place as the centre piece of the distillery,’ says esley. lanking these across two still houses are our shiny new stills, each an exact replica in size and function of the original it

replicates, down to the last dent and curve. The inner sanctum of the distillery is my lab, where I get to experiment with different ﬂavour com inations.

The first release esley worked on here was endrick s r ium the ase for which is endrick s Gin with quinine and wormwood additions, botanicals found in a gin and tonic and a martini, as well as Blue Lotus Blossom, one of her favourite flowers. The result is a comple floral gin with a brightness that sits roundly on the palate and lingers for a long time. It makes for masterful martinis.

Then there s endrick s lora Adora gin, a limited edition release from the endrick s a inet of uriosities which esley explains is a real cabinet in the la at endrick s in alace. The inspiration behind Flora Adora is the ﬂoral ou uet that entices pollinators keeping our ecosystem in balance.

A TASTE OF THE EXOTIC

Hendrick’s Amazonia Gin immediately transports Lesley back to the other side of the world.

Back in 2013, Lesley set off on a two-week expedition to Venezuela’s Guiana Highlands to research new botanicals, staying with a tribe in the rainforest. To their amazement she took a 10-litre still with her.

Attracted by the spicy floral aroma of a scorpion-tail plant, she started a distillation in the forest. In this male-dominated society, locals were even more surprised when she asked one of the men in her party to fetch water for her distillation.

The trip resulted in experimental batch distillations including Scorpion’s Tail and while this plant lacked the same depth and complexity when grown in the less mineralrich soil of the UK, other rainforest botanicals feature strongly in Hendrick’s Amazonia gin.

Its deep, floral, fruity, green aroma always reminds her of Venezuela.

Gin

A citrus forward gin, with a vibrant Punchy citrus and a slightly sweet undertone from

features on the soundtrack to Light citrus nose.

FINISH: Warm finish.

Wild umami sea to finish. Pepper dulse seaweed from the coast and wild thyme from the support the Caledonian Pinewoods of Mar Lodge. Released by the National

NOSE: Juniper forms the backbone, while birch and Scots pine lend a herbaceous, herby, savoury body.

PALATE: Complex and fragrant. Bog myrtle and wood sorrel bring floral aromatics to the nose.

Juniper and cardamom follows through on the

FINISH: A peppery spark gives way to a warming, honey-rich sweetness from blaeberries and heather flowers. palate.

Ewan M c Ilwraith

OWNER, ROBERTSONS OF PITLOCHRY www.robertsonsofpitlochry.co.uk

Ewan bought Robertsons of Pitlochry in 2013. Robertsons, an award-winning whisky shop and tasting room, have their own range of single cask whiskies and a gin. A warm welcome is always on offer and friendly advice is readily available

Other spirits

BARREL-AGED

PETIT CHIEN BRUN

FRANCE • CALVADOS

76 47.8

Aberdeenshire Independent Bottlers have brought something a bit different here with a calvados matured in a white port cask with terrific results.

NOSE:

PALATE: Toffee apples, runny honey and refreshing white wine flavours.

Plum and citrus with a herbal element. Eight Lands have been distilling since 2019, producing organic gin and vodka. This special edition vodka with only 850 bottles was matured in

Muscat wood. of the Muscat wine.

The pale colour suggests just a touch of wood influence is there and the nose confirms it with gentle vanilla and hints

FINISH:

Smooth and mouth-coating with the subtle sweetness of green grapes and peaches.

FINISH: Green apples and cinnamon flavours hold on through the warming, long finish.

lingering for a more complex expression. and blood orange.

Decadent Drinks have been able to get hold of a few casks from Long Pond Distillery and bottle them under the Rum Sponge banner.

Intense aromas of tropical fruit with bananas and pineapple and some

Rich and full bodied with a touch of vanilla sweetness, tobacco

FINISH:

Long and spicy with the strength carrying the fruitiness all the way through the finish.

Fraser Robson

WHISKY AMBASSADOR AT GORDON & MACPHAIL, SOUTH STREET, ELGIN www.gordonandmacphail.com

Based in the company’s spiritual home in Elgin, Fraser has been the Whisky Ambassador at Gordon & MacPhail South Street since 2018. Fraser is also one of the judges of the Scottish Field Whisky Challenge.

Mike Laird

DRAMS OF THE WORLD

Whether at the North Pole or crossing Lake Baikal, explorer Mike Laird always carries a dram

Written by Rosie Morton

If you were marooned on a desert island, what luxury would you yearn for? Might it be your favourite down pillow for a peaceful night’s sleep?

A bar of chocolate to combat the hunger pangs? Or perhaps an endless supply of breakfast tea?

For intrepid explorer Mike Laird, who appeared on the BBC’s reality TV series Castaway in 2000, carrying an additional kilo and a half in the shape and form of a whisky bottle is always worth it, even on the most gruelling expeditions.

‘It’s not purely the fact that I enjoy drinking – drinking all the way through wouldn’t do you any favours – but it’s something nice to look forward to at the end.

‘The primary reason that I take a bottle of whisky is that it’s engaging for people. So, if I

meet people along the way, I share it,’ explains Mike.

A thrill-seeker since he was a 17-year-old travelling through Europe with nothing more than a Lonely Planet guide and a scraggy old map, Mike grew up in Edinburgh but now lives in Lockerbie, where he has an extraordinary (and evergrowing) collection of 800 whiskies from around the globe.

‘People always respond to whisky – I think it breaks down barriers. For example, at the end of walking across Lake Baikal [a solo 640km trek to the most northern, southern, eastern and western points of Siberia’s vast frozen body of water], I met a group of Russians and I told them what I had just undertaken. I got a bottle of whisky out and the conversation ﬂowed smiles broadened and lots of things were shared.’

By day, Mike works as a risk manager, primarily for insurance companies and banks, but when off duty he winds his way across the world, taking on all manner of challenges, often on the back of a wager with friends.

To date, he has travelled over 100 countries. On top of his gritty Lake Baikal odyssey, he has undertaken a 565km ski from Resolute in Canada to the North Pole, cycled across Iraq, Bolivia, Syria and Northern

Left: Mike at home with his 800-strong collection of whisky.

Pakistan, and worked as a war photographer in Afghanistan. One of the most unusual places he has sipped the water of life, though, was while on the Amazon, listening to the bells toll as he crossed the Equator.

‘Back as a teenage boy, I used to pinch whisky from my dad’s drinks cabinet. I don’t really know why because I didn’t like it at all, it was just one of those teenage boy things,’ laughs Mike. ‘It was an uncle of mine, who was actually a customs and excise man, who introduced me to whisky. He introduced me to a dram called Cragganmore 12 Year Old which is a delicious

‘MIKE WILL, QUITE LITERALLY, GO TO THE ENDS OF THE EARTH FOR WHISKY’

Speyside whisky. It’s still my go-to drink of choice.’

new, together far outweighs any personal opinions on taste.

‘I have tasted so many whiskies from so many countries, I feel blessed,’ says Mike, adding that he will, quite literally, go to the ends of the earth to acquire a whisky. In fact he once ﬂew to ew ork twice in the space of six weeks to get his hands on a limitededition whisky in Duty Free.

o matter how far and wide he travels, though, amber nectar remains the spirit of Mike’s home – Bonnie Scotland.

ﬂoral honey notes of peyside

Though his own palate enjoys the sherried, sweet, ﬂoral honey notes of peyside it is often the accessible, well-known blends that Mike travels with. ‘Blended whiskies are usually blended for a reason – to appeal to a broader palate.’

‘One of the wonderful things about drinking whisky in Scotland is, if you’re outdoors, you don’t always have to run to the bar to get those two or three drops of water into your whisky to open it up – you can just

as he is concerned, a hold it under the heavens.’

circumnavigated Lake whisky may not have

This year, Mike walked from the aciﬁc over to the Atlantic across Central Panama, and shortly after circumnavigated Lake Victoria in Africa, making sure to schedule in a pit stop at a unique distillery called Thousand Hills. The whisky may not have been his favourite tipple of all time, but as far as he is concerned, a dram’s power to bring acquaintances, old and

Left: At the North Pole with Johnnie Walker Explorers’ Club Collection.

Right: Top tipples in Mike’s collection. Below: Tasting the spirit of home.

Over a

BARREL

Emma McClarkin, the chief executive of the Scottish Beer and Pub Association, tells editor Richard Bath why we need urgent action if we are to save Scotland’s boozers

Written by Richard Bath

Watching the Tartan Army drowning their sorrows in Munich after Scotland’s chastening opening day 5-1 defeat to their hosts at the European Championships must have been a particularly gruelling ordeal for Emma McClarkin.

As the daughter of a Bute man, it wasn’t just what happened on the ﬁeld of play which must have depressed the head of the Scottish Beer and Pub Association, but what happened away from it. The 190,000 Scots who had travelled to Bavaria to follow their team were being treated to stellar beer from an industry which, thanks to Germany’s unstinting support of its pubs and bars, is thriving.

It’s in stark contrast to the domestic scene where, particularly in Scotland, pubs are closing at an alarming rate. At current rates, 1.7% of all the pubs in Scotland are closing every year, which is more than double the rate in England. Scotland hosts less than 10% of the pubs in the UK, and with 132 pubs closing over 2022 and 2023, that number is falling all the time. In 2004 there were 5,184 pubs and bars in Scotland, by the end of last year that number had fallen to 4,380.

‘There’s really low, low taxation,’ says McClarkin when asked why Germany’s licensed trade is in such rude health compared to ours. ‘There’s 12 times more beer tax in this country than there is in Germany.

‘They support their domestic brews. They go to international markets, so you go to places like

China and you see loads of German beers. Why? It’s because they are able to invest and take those opportunities and put money back in their pocket. Whereas we’re so inhibited with tax in the UK as a whole that it’s impossible.’

McClarkin lays great stress on the importance of pubs as a social glue that helps hold communities together. Every new housing development, she says, should have a pub. When The Anchor, the last of the three pubs in her father’s home village of Port Bannatyne, closed, her father was part of the community buyout which kept the pub going. Like father, like daughter.

‘It’s been a lifelong passion for me,’ she says of pubs. ‘Every celebration in life, birth, death, falling in love, nursing a broken heart, every celebration or commiseration revolves around the pub. We used to go to the pub on Christmas day and it’s been a part of who we are and I couldn’t imagine the pub not eing a part of our lives and that s why I ﬁght for it.

‘It’s also part of Brand Scotland. Research has shown that one of the top three things to do in the UK is to go and grab a pint of beer and it’s something that we’ve celebrated throughout our history and something throughout our culture. Even Harry Potter goes to the Green Dragon and has a pint, doesn’t he?

very ody wants to go to cotland and ﬁnd a great pub and have a pint of great beer and an unforgettable dram.’

The causes of the travails of Scotland’s licensed

trade are not hard to divine. Societal issues – drink driving or many people drinking less – are of course important, but there are also economic issues which have accelerated the decline. Business rates are says c larkin five times higher for hospitality than for other high street businesses (‘we’re the heaviest taxed sector in the country’), while skyrocketing energy costs thanks to the war in Ukraine and the pursuit of net zero, Holyrood’s minimum pricing strategy and the ratcheting up of the minimum wage – when pu s can t find staff who are harder to come by since Brexit – are also profit sapping.

But McClarkin says there are compelling reasons why the decline in the number of pubs will pick at the fabric of the nation. Economically, pubs are often the drivers for small towns and villages, and their loss often presages further decline. They also have a crucial role to play in the physical and mental health of the nation.

When it comes to the younger generation, who are statistically drinking less, pubs can help keep them socialised ‘to maybe relieve them of some of their inhibitions’ and remove loneliness, which is at epidemic levels amongst the young. In these days of pre-loading and binge drinking, a steady consumption of pints and the growth of low-or no-alcohol beer also ‘helps people moderate their consumption, which will make us healthier as a nation,’ she believes.

For the older generation, 81% of whom see a pub as their home from home, the conversations which people have in pubs are crucial to mental health. ‘When it comes to mental health, particularly men’s mental health, sometimes the only time

‘1.7% of all the pubs in Scotland are closing every year, which is more than double the rate of decline in England’

that they might even open up for a conversation might be in their local pub,’ says McClarkin. ‘Pubs can help stave off loneliness and isolation, and that particularly goes for people who live in rural communities.’

Much of that is common sense. The di cult thing is to forge a consensus on how to arrest and then reverse the decline of Scotland’s pubs and bars. And how to pay for it.

‘At the moment, it’s so hard to make a proﬁt from running a pu in Scotland,’ she says. ‘That’s why we talk so much about reducing the cost of beer, reducing the taxation and business rates, and reducing the VAT so that people can come out to eat instead of staying at home. We all want to have the best pubs, but people just simply don’t have the capital to invest right now, and that has knock-on effects – if you’ve got no pub, then tourism suffers.’

In other words, we need to stop the cycle of decline and build a virtuous circle. And there’s no time like the present in which to do it.

Beer

SHANGRI-LA,

SESSION IPA

ARBOR ALES, BRISTOL

3.35 (440ML CAN) 4.2

Arbor Ales have been at the centre of the craft beer scene in Bristol since 2007. They have a great range of beer and this is one

NOSE: A touch of herbs, tropical flavours, stone fruit with a hoppy citrus note.

PALATE: Loads of hops, pink grapefruit, mango and a bread note.

FINISH: A touch of sweet fruit with hoppy bitterness.

WHITEOUT, SESSION

IPA

CROMARTY BREWERY, CROMARTY

£3.10 (440ML CAN)

NICO, KÖLN LAGER

ORBIT BREWERY LONDON

From the family-run brewery overlooking the Cromarty Firth. They produce fantastic beers with innovation and a certain amount of style.

NOSE: Loads of hops on the nose coming from the combination of citra, motueka and mosaic.

PALATE: There are hints of tropical fruit notes and again hops and malt.

FINISH: Rounded with a touch of citrus but loads of hops again.

£2.63 (330ML BOTTLE) 4.8

Named after Nico who was the lead singer of The Velvet Underground. A perfect lager to drink on its own or with a meal. It is also gluten free.

NOSE: Lemon and lime citrus notes with a touch of apples and a hint of brioche.

PALATE: A lovely crisp apple note with that brioche again with hops and maltiness.

FINISH: A delicate yeasty finish with subtle pear drops and the low carbonation allows this all to come through.

James Robertson

DRINKS CONSULTANT, OWNER AT WILDCAT SPIRITS LTD. AND DIRECTOR OF THE OWN LABEL COMPANY www.wildcatspirits.co.uk; www.ownlabelcompany.co.uk

Following 25 years of working in the drinks industry, James started Wildcat Spirits to assist companies in sales, global exports and brand building. He has always enjoyed beer and even tried making his own when he was a teenager.

Holding out for a zero

Making hangovers from hell a thing of the past, at least for a wee while, has become a tempting prospect thanks to zero alcohol spirits

Written by Brooke Magnanti

Now here’s a twist you probably never expected from this column: going teetotal. Not forever, of course. But a couple of years ago after what was perhaps the worst hangover of my life, I decided it was time to cut back a bit. And every year since, I’ve taken 100 dry days a year. Usually in the height of summer because the thought of facing another headache morning when the mercury tops 30 is, frankly, the stuff of nightmares.

As a kid there was nothing more glamorous than going out to a restaurant with my parents, where if it was a big celebration or I had been especially good I was allowed to order a Shirley Temple: one part grenadine syrup to four parts lemonade, garnished with a maraschino. A bit sickly compared to what I’d prefer now, but it inspired in me a love of the drama of cocktails that has scarcely waned since.

Seedlip (established 2014, which is like three reincarnations with the same mate in this biz). Their Spice 94 has been gracing bars for a decade but it’s herbaceous Garden 108 that comes closest to giving craft gin vibes on its own or in a cocktail. With real herby vibes this goes straight to an English garden in summertime, speaking of pea shoots, cucumber and thyme. Pentire Adrift is another non-alcohol spirit chasing the gin market, though with a more rosemary- and sageforward bouquet.

‘The popularity of Dry January, or in my case Abstinent August, is growing’

Turns out the popularity of personal challenges like Dry January (or in my case, Abstinent August) are growing to the point where they’re even affecting the drinks industry. And this is a good thing actually. Back when I was a young bar goer in Florida, the only non-alcoholic options were usually a tasteless O’Doul’s or a diet soda, both of which get old fast.

ow it s possi le to ﬁnd concoctions that not only replicate the look of a potent potable, but also tick many of the same boxes. Take for example the venerable

Athletic Brewing Co has come out hot and heavy in the last few years with their range. But it’s the hoppy and tart Run Wild IPA that had captured the biggest fandom. Wags might claim an American IPA tastes of so little apart from hops anyway that the booze is hardly missed, but in any case, there’s nothing to be ashamed of from this pint. For those who prefer a lighter North American lager offering, Lagunitas, Coors and Corona all have acceptable takes on their ﬂagship rews.

For me however, the classic summer drink is an Aperol Spritz and while a splash of Shloer will probably do in a pinch, what of the headline aperitivo? Well would you believe Wilfred’s Bittersweet can double spectacularly well. It boasts an edge of cranberry amongst the peel that would sit easily in plenty of incognito virgin drinks... possibly even livening up that old Shirley Temple. Someone mix me up a glass, I’m at the big girl table now.

WORTH A LOOK

FERAGAIA

Distilled in Fife, using 14 all natural botanicals including lemon verbena, blackcurrant leaf, sugar kelp and pink peppercorn. Great with ginger ale, tonic or in cocktails.

TALONMORE

Established in Edinburgh in 2020 and designed to replicate the experience of drinking a dark spirit. Brewed in Scotland with ginger, cactus juice, prickly pear and hawthorn berry.

JUMPSHIP YARDARM LAGER

Created by Scotland’s first alcohol-free brewery, this is a crisp and hoppy lager that’s perfect ice cold on a summer’s day.

Imports

hit a record-high last

year, meaning that the whisky scene in South Korea is really thriving, says Beitna Kim

My passion for whisky started from being a fan of electronic music. I used to go to a lot of music festivals, and I became very interested in the marketing of whisky and spirits at these events.

The ﬁrst time I had a proper whisky tasting was at a Macallan event in Seoul. I found the whole maturation process amazing. I left my job in a tobacco company to join an industry that I loved.

I applied for a scholarship offered by Korean whisky company Golden Blue, and in 2017 I did a Masters in Brewing and Distilling at Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh. When I came back to Korea, I worked as a Kavalan whisky brand manager, ran my own whisky bar for a year and then worked as whisky brand communications manager for a local company. Now I work as a freelance content creator and run whisky classes, workshops and tastings.

Whisky highballs are very popular, and they are served in bars and restaurants, as well as in cans at convenience stores – you can ﬁnd more of that than canned beer! Because of this, more young people have started enjoying whisky.

Many started drinking more whisky and less soju, which is our national drink. It’s made from cheap base starch like wheat, tapioca, barley, sweet potato or potatoes. Corporate soju makers create a liquor that is at least 95% ethanol and then dilute it with sweeteners and additives. It’s estimated that an adult in Korea consumes an average of 53 bottles a year of soju.

There are two working distilleries in Korea: Three Societies Distillery and Kim Chang Soo, both of which are quite new. I have tried Three Societies’ whisky which is getting better and better. They try to use Korean casks and experiment with how to mature whisky in the Korean climate, which is characterised by very cold winters and very hot summers. The extreme weather adds complexity to its ﬂavour. Three new distilleries are under construction: Lotte, Craftbros and Brewguru.

Brands like Balvenie and Macallan are very popular. Glenallachie also has a devoted following – we refer to it as an ‘open-run’ whisky, which means that each time a new expression is released, people rush to buy it as soon as the store opens Other whiskies that are enjoyed are Jim Beam, Jack Daniels and Maker’s Mark, as well as Kavalan from Taiwan. Lately, people are getting more interested in whiskies from other parts of the world. Companies often send master blenders to Seoul as they recognise our market’s potential.

Whisky in South Korea is becoming increasingly popular. Imports of whisky products hit a record high in 2023 at 30,586 tons. However the total value has slightly decreased – people are looking for whiskies that are good value for money.

We have some great whisky bars: the Zest and Bar Charm in Seoul were listed amongst the World’s top 50 whisky bars in 2023.

The biggest whisky event of the year is the Bar and Spirit Show in May. But wherever you go, spaces for tastings are often sold out in a heartbeat.

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Experience the magic of Scotch whisky making at Annandale

Tour our working distillery and discover how we make award-winning whisky while sampling Single Cask, Single Malts and the premium blend - STORYMAN. Tours run every hour, 7 days a week.

inside the historic Annandale Distillery.

Savour the flavours of our delicious homemade soups, sandwiches and light bites freshly made every day with the finest local ingredients. Treat yourself to our delicious Afternoon Tea, served daily with a selection of cakes, scones and sandwiches. Open 10am-5pm, 7 days a week.

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