AROUND THE WORLD / RUSSI A
EDITOR'S LETTER
In addition, there are a number of events we always attend. The Oscars in Los Angeles was a glamorous affair full of celebrities. Then Cannes Film Festival, of course... I love the excitement of waiting to hear who will get the Palme D’Or, but find the pace a little frenetic. In the face of which Eden Roc Hotel is an oasis of calm, one of the most civilized places on earth. Attending the Grand Prix in Monaco, Singapore and Abu Dhabi was also exciting. Paris and Milan fashion weeks produced some of the most stunning fashion collections on record. July was about St. Tropez and Ibiza with exclusive parties. Come August, Cala di Volpe and Gstaad are my preferred places for meeting up with my Qatari and Russian friends. End of August was Venice Film Festival. Venice is always more than films, it's a heady mix of glamorous people played out within the calle and Venice's palaces. Moran Atlas, looked stunning at the Closing Ceremony wearing a Dolce&Gabbana long polka-dot dress. I loved to spend my days at the pool at the secluded Hotel Cipriani. All these rendezvous have helped me shape the pages of Cercle magazine, making it so much more than just a publication, but rather a worldwide community of creativity, business, trend setters Dear friends,
who can interact with each other in a relaxed, exclusive setting.
Welcome to the Christmas Cercle edition of 2014. The coming
I see Cercle as a platform to bring both new and existing mem-
of a New Year is a time when we all reflect - a time when we are in
bers together. It’s also an opportunity for brands and luxury world-
a mood to look both forwards and backwards. So here are some
wide sophisticated consumers to be directly involved with the con-
of my reminiscences of the outgoing year and a few observations
tent that fills our pages. This sixth edition takes us to Moscow,
about what lies ahead. I really enjoyed my year travelling to various
with Russian Cercle member Ksenia Mezentseva gracing the cover
locations and events around the world, renewing my acquaintance
and sharing her favourite things in life. Ksenia has beauty and
with so many of you. After spending Christmas in St. Moritz and
exudes optimism in every facet of her life. She is the definition of
Gstaad, I had a very pleasant start to the year, attending the annual
someone who has the ability to excel at what she does; doing this
L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate.Cape Town at this time of the year is a
with infectious enthusiasm.
wonderful place to relax from crowded, over glittering St. Barths
Hopefully that similar enthusiasm and love of life shines through
– making the L’Ormarins gathering a glamorous place to start the
in this edition of Cercle and for many future editions. Undoubtedly,
social international calendar. Ten years ago when I attended for the
2015 will spark new adventures for all of us and hope that Cercle will
first time, it was just horse racing with a picnic attached. But now
be there to comment. Who can predict what next year will bring?
it has developed into a must-go event that attracts an international,
The possibilities are endless. But while I sit and wait with anticipa-
beautiful crowd. In recognition of Asia’s immense importance for
tion, I will use this time to say thank you to our old friends, and a
the luxury world, I was in China twice – First in the months
Happy New Year to you all.
of April and then later in October. This presented me with the opportunity to see for myself what the luxury industry means to my friends living in the Far East. Most of all, it signals Cercle’s
GABRIELE SALVADORI
intention to remain connected at a global level.
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CONTENT 08
ART FOCUS
12
ART EVENTS
14
AUC T IONS
16
BE AU T Y E SSENT I A L S
20
WISHLIST
22
ICONIC
24
FA SHION STOR IE S
28
HIDDEN GEMS
32
M Y FAV O R I T E S
38
CITY LIFESTYLE
44
INTERIORS
52
IN THE MOOD FOR
56
WAT C H S T OR I E S
62
ECONOMICS
66
HUNTING
70
OPINION
74
AIRPL ANES
76
E S S A Y: AW F U L B E AU T Y
82
A ROU ND THE WOR LD
92
IN CON V ER SATION W ITH
96
PL ACES
MAISON MOREAU VELSVOIR
MONSIEUR FOX KSENIA MEZENTSE VA MOSCOW
MAX KASYMOV MARGARITA K ARE VA
SIHH | SALON QP
R A I H A MILTON
TOP WINGSHOOTING DESTINATIONS
R A I H A MILTON TRANSAERO ANDREI NAVROZOV
LUCY DOUGHTY
DR A K ENSTEIN STUD FA R M
102
PL ACES TO STAY
10 4
CONNECTING CIRCLES
106
SOCIAL SEASON
112
SHOPPING LIST
HARRY'S BAR
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ART FOCUS
Biennale des A N T I QUA I R E S 2 014 !"#$%&'$()&*$+,%&%"-.$&*+$/0-,%12&$32&%"-24$,+'$5-&%672%#+'$%-8%&+,$92167+'$:#2-;+.$ "-+$"<$&*+$="'&$#+-">+,$,+1"#2&"#'$"<$"7#$+#2.$&"$#+%-&+#?#+&$&*+$;2#,+-'$"<$&*+$@*A&+27$,+$ B+#'2%44+'$2-,$&*+$C#%2-"-$>*%1*$4%+'$%-$&*+$-"#&*D>+'&+#-$?2#&$"<$B+#'2%44+'E For more than six decades, the Biennial has been one of
of the XIX th and archaeology outperforming other sectors.
the key meetings on the art market calender. It is basical-
Jean-Gabriel Peyre, the president of the Syndicat National
ly a pop-up museum where the best antique dealers are able
des Antiquaires, makes the observation that the buyers who
to exhibit their favourite works of art and craftsmanship.
attend this biennial event are true collectors and connois-
The Biennial event of Antique Dealers and Haute Jewellery
seurs. The economic activity generated by the Biennial event
of 2014 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; recorded a peak of 90 000 visitors, consisting of
extends well beyond the boundaries of the Grand Palais: Ar-
professional collectors and those passionate in their appreci-
chitects, restorers, decorators, carriers, insurers, hotels, and
ation of art. The exhibitors also remarked on the increase of
restaurants all throw themselves into ensuring the event is
clients travelling from Asia, Russia, and South America to
a success. In fact, around 100 000 people are thought to
attend the event. The sales tally was very successful indeed:
benefit economically from itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s presence. Not only that, over
with modern painting, the decorative arts and architecture
800 people work on the site daily throughout the period.
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ART EVENTS
R A N H WA N G : BECOMING AGA IN
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In a tribute to the infinite cycle of nature, Ran Hwang transformed the Third Floor into a private garden. Thousands of elements combine in Korean artist Ran Hwang’s large-scale installation: a flowery landscape reflecting the fragility of life. This exhibition invites us to contemplate and reflect on the transient nature of existence of the world around us. NOV EMBER /2014 TO JA NUA RY/2015
PEDER BA LK E
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Peder Balke (1804–1887) is one of the most original painters of 19th-century Scandinavia. This exhibition showcases this Norwegian artist who was both ahead of his time and who is only now being rediscovered and recognised as one of the forerunners of modernism. In collaboration with the Northern Norway Art Museum in Tromsø, art lovers will see around 50 paintings that represent every facet of the artist’s career. The collection has been curated from private and public collections across Europe. NOVEMBER /2014 TO A PRIL /2015, LONDON
1 2 | 4&&5"'/6
T H E PA R I S OF TOU L OUSE-L AU T R E C: PR INTS AND POSTERS
;?; >
This exhibition dedicated to Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864–1901) is drawn almost exclusively from MoMA’s collection of posters, lithographs, printed ephemera, and illustrated books. The works of this preeminent artist of the Belle Époque Paris movement, affords insights into many facets of Parisian life, from politics to the rise of popular entertainment in the form of cabarets and café-concerts. JULY/2014 TO M A RCH/2015, NE W YORK
RODCHENKO A ND S T E PA N OVA
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The work of these leading artists of the Russian avantgarde ( who also exercised a huge influence on subsequent generations ) is revealed in this exhibition. It includes more than 250 exhibits: paintings, works on paper, photographs and personal effects from the Rodchenko and Stepanova Archive. It allows us to observe the development of the artists’ work from symbolism through to their seizure of abstract-geometrical painting and drawing before their embrace of constructivism. Both Rodchenko and Stepanova proclaimed: “The future is our only goal.” NOVEMBER /2014 TO M A RCH/2015, MOSCOW
4&&5"'/6 |! 1 3
AUCTIONS
MICHELE OK A DONER: THE SHAMAN’S HUT
! " # $ % & '( #)& * + & , - . - / 0 - 1 2 & 3 4 '5 This private selling exhibition features the work of artist Michele Doner: The Shaman’s Hut – 50 Years of Objects from a Ceremonial Life. The objects - all of them dating from the past 50 years - have been selected from Oka Doner’s own personal collection. It invites people to follow the evolution and the development of her philosophical journey through life. The work of Oka Doner is influenced by the forms and textures of ecology. She draws on the natural world and infuses their form into her work - giving them a permanent presence by, for example, casting them in bronze. CHRISTIE'S PRIVATE SALES GALLERY 20
TH
FLOOR
12 30 AV ENUE OF T HE A MERICA S NEW YORK
1 4 | 6778-&9:
BEAUTY ESSENTIALS
Age l e s s B o d y,
M i nd a nd Spi r it !"#$%&'(#)**+*()&,(-&+($+.+./+$*(-&+0*(%&&-1+&1+2("3..+$(#)**+*()&,(-&+(( $+.+./+$*(-&+4*(+53/+$)&1+2(6373.&(#)**+*()&,(-&+($+.+./+$*(-&+4*($+8+$+&1+2(( ?QV\MZ XI[[M[ IVL WVM ZMUMUJMZ[ WVM [ XMZ[M^MZIVKM Âş Ď&#x192; AWSW 7VW 9:(;+<+&+(=)./)3, When Nature created us, it could not have suspected that we
our body, however, what we can do is to arrange for their regular
would feed on preservatives, drink pills, and breathe products of
removal from the body, with natural methods and on a daily basis.
the incomplete combustion of fuel. The result is that we are all
We can start our mornings with lemon and water.â&#x20AC;?
overloaded with toxins. So how do we get rid of them in a regular domestic situation?
Doctor Ali, we have heard so much about your healthimprovement system. Please tell us more about it. What is
There are a lot of reasons as to why toxins accumulate in the
the mechanism of self-recovery of the human body based on?
body: Poor diet, alcohol consumption, smoking, lack of sleep, and more. The medicines that we take â&#x20AC;&#x201C; such as antibiotics, anti-
Inside each of us, there is a system of self-healing. For
inflammatory drugs and anti-depressants are on the one hand
instance, you cut your finger, the blood stops flowing and it
helping us fight disease but on the other, affecting the liver and the
heals â&#x20AC;&#x201C; even if you do nothing to treat it. So how is this done?
kidneys. So problems with the stomach, sensitive skin, fluctuating
Hippocrates and other physicians of ancient times, created a
body weight, sleep disorders, headaches and feeling sick in general,
health-improvement system using diet, herbal teas, massage,
have all become constant companions for humans.
various exercises and visits to the spa â&#x20AC;&#x201C; where patients restored their sense of wellbeing with the help of water. All of this aids
So can we somehow combat all of this? We all need to detoxify â&#x20AC;&#x201C;
the force of self-healing the human body.
meaning do a regular cleansing of the body. Usually, procedures of this kind are performed in specialized health centres, where we have
Massage is very important, especially for the neck; I practice this
to spend a solid two weeks or so. And even that is not enough to get
on a daily basis. It is the cervical spine that suffers the greatest
rid of all the toxins that have been accumulated over many years.
number of injuries, starting from the process of childbirth, to sitting too long at a computer, writing desk or car wheel. Dry
I discussed with the Director of the Centre for Integrated
brush exfoliation helps promote circulation and feels great. It is
Medicine and personal physician to the British royal family,
easy to do it yourself at home, but if you want to splurge, it is
Mosaraf Ali, about his health improvement system and his views
great as a part of an Ayurvedic massage. There are many spas
on ageless living by detoxingâ&#x20AC;Ś
offering this now. Yoga gives energy to the body. I devised a system of yoga therapy for the entire body. It is needed to control
â&#x20AC;&#x153;Today detox is a vital necessity. We cannot fully keep toxins out of
1 6 | >**3+(?@
the breathing and to reduce stress.
AT T HE END OF T HE DAY, E V ER YONE WA N T S TO L I V E FOR A LONG T IME! W H AT MANY DON’T RE ALIZE THOUGH, IS THAT WE ALL HAVE THE POWER TO MAKE CHOICE S TH AT WILL HELP US LI V E A LONG A ND HE A LTH Y LIFE. BOOSTING L O N G E V I T Y A ND BE IN G F I T A ND V IBR A N T AT A N Y A G E I S A RE A L P O S SIBIL I T Y.
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EVE LOM
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your complexion in one, easy
tone. Rich in nutrients that improve overall brightness, texture and glow, this is the ultimate skin elixir.
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step. Getting beautiful skin can really be as simple as that.
VERSO SKINCARE
F B + ( F$ ) 8 + < ( " + $ % + * When travelling, stripping back to the basics really is essential. That’s why we love that our much-loved Verso products are available in travel size. Verso skincare is eight times more potent than other retinol based products on the market, yet gentle enough on the skin to suit all skin types. Containing no colorants, parabens, mineral oils or other harmful substances, these no-fuss products cleanse, hydrate and protect, in the most purifying way. Just like the packaging suggests, it’s as easy as 1-2-3.
A RT IS BRUSHE S
FB+(G<%7+(H-<<+17%-& As the saying goes, ‘a craftsman is only as good as his tools’ right? Well then, welcome to the evolution of the makeup brush. The elite collection brushes come in all sizes for the face and body, becoming the perfect tool for eye shadow creases, all the way to the shoulders and chest area. A modern, yet classic, shape that includes a curved, flat handle to fit the contours of the hand, maximizing and perfecting makeup application. Artis brushes have 3-10 times more individual fibres than conventional brushes, and more fibres do more work! Made using the best, high tech machines, you can rely on each brush being consistent and identical. The ultimate makeup experience can start from the basic essentials – Pure luxury and performance. Shouldn’t a makeup brush, that is a tool to create beauty, be beautiful itself?
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WISHLIST
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AN OUTSTANDING BEGINNING
an e-mail saying that I should take a look at it next time we
The story of the Moreau-Paris, a former French manufacturer
were in Paris.» Today the number of stores all over the world
of luxury leather goods, travel cases and trunks began two hun-
is quiet impressive — you can buy a Moreau leather goods
dred years ago. In 1882, following in the footsteps of master cab-
in New York, Tokyo, Kiev, Kaliningrad, Hong Kong, Seoul,
inetmaker for Napoleon the 1st, Martin-Guillaume Biennais,
Taipei, Manila, Los-Angeles, Stockholm, Milan and Monaco.
as well as of a succession of artisans, layetiers and trunk makers; the Maison Moreau moved to the prestigious address of 283,
Fedor Georges Savchenko, design graduate of the Textile
rue Saint-Honoré. It remained there until the early 20th cen-
Academy of Kiev and Studio BERÇOT in Paris, joined his
tury before it ceased trading. Only in 2011, Veronika Rovnoff,
sister Veronika Rovnoff as an artistic director and released a
founder of the House of Rovnoff, opened the «Moreau-Par-
new collection of sophisticated luggage and bags «signifying
is» boutique at 4, rue de Miromesnil in the French capital.
the love of French proficiency and traditions». The philosophy of the brand definitely stands out: there are no seasonal piec-
In June 2013, one year after the boutique’s opening, they made
es, just items that you’ll keep for your entire life. These bags
a stateside debut at Barneys New York. «It happened through
are passed down from generation to generation, as a part of
a rather unorthodox referral,» said Daniella Vitale, C.O.O. and
French tradition and culture.
executive vice president of Barneys. «Narciso Rodriguez was in Paris on holidays and walked past a tiny shop. He had sent me
2 2 | B441$&CD
Always passionate for beautiful and resistant things in life, Fe-
Fedor still has loads and loads of projects in mind. «My source of inspiration?» said Fedor smiling. « I guess it comes from our clients. Everyone is unique with their own sense of style and requirements for the bag. For us it is such an engrossing experience to work with people who are not tuned the standard, mass luxury way. We are all about customizing and can make special orders in original colors or materials.» BAGS SECRETS The Breganson bag, named after Fort de Brégançon is a blend of tradition and modernism, craftsmanship and modern style. Each bag is partly hand-stitched in one of the ateliers in central France. It is also reversible with a royal blue skin interior — A distinctive feature of the Moreau Paris brand. dor digests his handbags in direct relationship to the house herit-
Since the end of the 19th century, the Moreau Diligence trunk has
age. «I started with a historic base to create contemporary, up to
been one of the flagship models. Today the brand has re-introduced
date pieces by imagining the models I’d like to carry, rather than
traditional leather savoir-faire to create the ultra chic and feminine
favoring a commercial style», Fedor explained.
trunk. Incorporating leather into old trunks revives the pieces. Applied with delicate precision gives great strength and durability. It is
He is convinced that the best bags are the ones that speak for
also has a clasp, identical to those used in the trunks of old. If you
themselves. «I imagine pieces for enthusiasts of quality and
are looking for a smaller bag, the Miromesnil bag is a perfect one.
connoisseur’s of traditional handmade finishing. To some ex-
Named after the Parisian address, this is a perfect blend of femi-
tent, our brand is a custodian of an exceptional French tradi-
ninity, high quality materials and a beautiful bevelled design, sewn
tion, both for the manufacturing processes and in the materials
entirely by hand. The unique design of the steel chain has been in-
we use. Buying a Moreau bag is like investing in a unique piece
spired by pieces produced by the jewelers of the 19th century. Finally,
of jewelry- Owned by few, desired by many.
the unique design of the steel chain and the lockable clasp are the brand insignias.
Veronika Rovnoff fully shares his view: «At some point, I just realized how much I was tired of casual bags. I ended up carrying the
For those who seek the best and demand exclusivity, there
same bags as my friends did. I wanted to have something unique.
can be no other treasured possession than a Moreau bespoke
Something that would be fresh, exclusive, personal. Very me.»
personalized initials bag.
B441$&CD |! 2 3
FASHION STORIES
F R O M S I X T O S I X T Y.
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WHAT DOES VEL SVOIR STAND FOR?
WHAT IS THE MA JOR INFLUENCE OF
Talha: Velsvoir is a completely made-up word. When we came
THIS SPECIFIC STYLE OF THE BOW
up with it, we put it into Google. It returned no results so we
TIES THAT YOU ARE PRODUCING? A
trademarked it. For us, it consists of four elements: “Vel” stands
BIT
for the word velvet, because our first collection was made out of
C A L ? Talha: The story began two years ago when our old-
velvet; “Soir” means night and “Voir” means to see. So if you
er brother was getting married and being bit natty dressers, we
put it all together it means “to see velvet in the night”. That’s
wanted to make sure we are absolutely dressed for the night. We
the origins of the word but in terms of the meaning, it’s very
planned shoes, shirts, suits and we were looking for decent black
flexible. Our customers normally associate it with sophistication
bow ties. Believe it or not, we could not find any! We are quite
and luxury. Something that is not unobtainable but aspirational.
lucky that our mother used to be a fashion designer and she is
OVER-SIZED,
A
BIT
THE ATRI-
quiet pragmatic, so she offered make those for us two. We never SO
YOU
ARE
SAYING
VELSVOIR
M E A N S A S P I R A T I O N ? No, because that would
thought it would lead us to where we are now. We went through a series of shapes, fabrics, and finishings to get the right one.
be pigeonholing it (laughing). So our tie is squarer, longer— It is not the classic butterfly style WHAT IS A GOOD E X AMPLE OF WHAT
shape. It’s distinguishable and it stands out. Following the wed-
I S V E L S V O I R ? Talha: Bow ties (laughing). Feeling
ding, we had been constantly wearing those bow ties until one
that you are wearing something of personal value. When
day, we became known as the “bow tie boys”. Final confirma-
people wear it, they feel that they are empowered and wear-
tion came when later that year, during London Fashion week,
ing the statement piece. Zak: A bow tie is like a piece of jew-
we were photographed by Facehunter. He was the guy you want
elry. Talha: When they are wearing a bow tie it means they
to be photographed by. He asked where he could buy it. So we
are ready to step out.
developed our first five bow ties.
!""#$%&' |! 2 5
NORMALLY
WHEN
BOW
ARE
TIES,
YOU YOU
PRODUCE TRYING
WOULD
YOU
PLEASE
TELL
A
BIT
TO
MORE ABOUT YOUR VERTE AND NOIR
SEND OUT A MESSAGE OR A THEME
S E R I E S ? Talha: Noir is for those looking for the ultimate
A C R O S S T H E C O L L E C T I O N ? Zak: The first
Velsvoir experience. It offers a bespoke service, by appointment
collection is our signature, and what we are most known for are
only. With this exclusive service, you will be able to create your
our velvet bow ties. We started with five and now have 10 col-
very own unique, one-off design. Zak: We dressed the Presi-
ours in velvet. For the S*uce boutique in Dubai, we made a more
dent of Island Fund with a royal blue velvet tie when he was
colorful, bright, and funky collection with patterns.
talking to Prince Albert ll of Monaco.
Then we did a collection with October House for London
A N D V E R T E S E R I E S ? Talha: We like to be re-
Men’s Collections, which is a bit more quintessentially British.
sponsible in business. This is an ethical line that utilizes or-
It was a modern take on the classic British look, a sort of mod-
ganic and recycled, sustainable fabrics. The packaging will
ern, dandy approach. We also did metallic pieces, using foil or
also use 100% recycled materials. For us, it is a way to say
lamb’s leather, or a stingray rainbow tie that looked like cavi-
thank you to the environment and the economy we work in.
ar. We can work with any fabric. We are not season driven, but
Zak: It forms a completely separate line in itself. That’s why we
there is geographical difference: In London people go for thick-
work with a series of suppliers who create esthetically pleasing
er tweed-like fabrics, where as in Dubai it’s something lighter.
products. For us it’s important not to be plain and boring about it. Everything we do, we want to do it properly, rather than
WHAT SORT OF CUSTOMERS DO YOU
rushing and making an old-fashioned, environmentally friend-
NORMALLY
ly collection, we want to make it provocative the right way.
DESIGN
FOR?
Talha: From 6
years of age up to 60. Rock up in a bow tie and people will think you’re a smart guy with a twinkle in your eye. A roguish
DO YOU THINK WEARING A BOW TIE
professor-type, with sartorial standards and a sense of fun.
QUESTIONS
Zak: We even have designed a bow tie for a dog!
A N O U T F I T ? Talha: People have fun with how they
THE
MASCULINITY
OF
style it and how adventurous they get. It’s down to the individIS WEARING ONE EVER WORTH PUR-
ual outfit and how people see it.
SUING AS A GROWN MAN, OR WILL YOU JUST LOOK LIKE A FIVE-YE AR-
WHAT
OLD ON YOUR WAY TO A PIANO RE-
C O L L A B O R A T I O N S ? Zak: We have launched a
CITAL.
THE
special wacky collection of accessories for Sketch London
R I G H T C A L L ? Zak: You can wear it anytime. When you
uniforms, where no tie is the same. Your accessories tell your
wear it, the whole outfit comes up. It’s a small touch but a big state-
ranking at work. And recently we have collaborated with ME
ment. The beauty of the bow tie is that it allows you to mix it up and
hotel London, done by Norman Foster. We are excited to
have some fun, without losing your level of formality. It always looks
work on a project of that scale.
WHEN
IS
A
BOW
TIE
ARE
YOUR
MOST
EXCITING
a bit disheveled. They let you get some individuality in a sea of guys wearing your standard straight tie. You can wear a wool bow tie with
BY T HE WAY, DO YOU H AV E A FA SH-
a tweed suit and look like Harrison Ford in Indiana Jones, or you
I O N I C O N ? Talha: We are both big fans of Tom Ford.
can rock a matching seersucker jacket and bow tie on top of some
He is the embodiment of his brand. The way he speaks, the way
tattoos, like fashion veteran Nick Wooster. If you say no to bow ties,
he dresses. It’s all about him. There are not many brands that
you're just cutting yourself off to some great styling options.
have this power. He is the complete package.
!""#$%&' |! 2 7
HIDDEN GEMS
Oui,
monsieur, oui
7=(D<"(E"0"#,<"
2 8 | F##-+(GH
!"#$%&'()%*$(+&,-'$(."&"/$+(*,(',("0,-&1( *$+()$,2+(3,0+#*4($+(5-#*(6%'$*(7+(*$+(6,#*( +8/%*%&'("&1(1"0%&'(3,8(%&(*$+(),0219( :,&#%+-0(;,8(%#(*$+("22+',0%/"2("&%6"2( *$"*(0+.0+#+&*#(*$+(#-"<+("//+##,0%+#(70"&1( 7=(*$+(#"6+(&"6+9(>%#(2%?+&+##("&1(2%67#( "0+(+<+0(.0+#+&*(%&(*$+(70"&1@#(#*+02%&'(#%2<+0( K]ټQVS[ [W _M \PW]OP\ _M¼L I[S \PM [Ta 1+<%2()$"*(6"?+#($%6(#,(1"..+09(A+(',*( "()$,2+(2,*(,3()%#1,6(7"/?(30,6(*$+(6"&( 7+$%&1(*$%#(70"&14(B10%"&(BC,1%9
Adrian is a budding entrepreneur with a lot of imagination,
great event and a perfect venue to launch a men's brand, as
a visionary with limited resources and a believer in a bright,
men are most of the audience of the F1. Plus, it really puts you
bright future. Originally from California, but grew up in the
into the luxury market and high - end crowd, allowing a new
Northeast, he had always wanted to create something within
brand to show the quality of its collection first and foremost.
the world of fashion. After various roles in restaurants, sales,
Currently, the best place to buy us is on our site, www.mon-
and marketing, he moved to Dubai for a job within the oil
sieurfox.com. We are carried in London at Wolf and Badger on
and gas industry. While in Dubai, he started working on his
Dover St. too, but this year we'll be adding a few more retailers.
concept of a new men's brand, centered around luxury accessories with a twist, something that was informal and formal,
WHAT’S THE MA JOR INFLUENCE BE-
that could lend a certain panache and fun elegance to an outfit.
HIND EST
YOU
SEEM
L AT-
C O L L E C T I O N ? Our first collection was cen-
and show the elegance of his form throughout each piece. The
MOST
latest collection, which we have just launched in January, is all
O U T O F T H E I R L I F E A N D L O O K S ? Ah,
focused on the cabaret, but as it was at the beginning of the 20th
well thank you, to be honest, for me the secret is serendipity.
century, when it was still a new sort of place, and it was one of
Time and time again I’ve found that had I not done things of
the few areas where the working class and the last aristocrats of
my own accord, acted on my wishes, life would dull. Many peo-
Europe could be in the same room together, while remaining
ple get into the “I can’t because…” trap. All we need to do is
relatively anonymous and adhere to the social rules of the time
to think: “Would I want to re-watch this life being lived?” If
period. It was the beginning of the Western worlds progression
the answer is no, it’s time to go out and do something about it.
into a "democratic" cultures, rather than the previous monarchical
LOOKING
YOUR TO
A
YOUR
FOR
MEN
LIVED
AND
tered around the fox. I wanted to use the animal as a reference,
WHAT’S
HAVE
STYLE
FULL
LIFE.
TO
YOUR
ADVICE
GET
THE
systems. It also represented a time of major change in many other S O F I R S T T H I N G S F I R S T... W H Y C U F -
aspects of life; the telegraph had connected the continents, rail-
FLINKS?
NICHE
roads stitched together countries and created vast new opportuni-
I N T E R E S T . First, I tried to do everything at once. Shirts,
ties, industrialization was under full steam ahead, and the cabaret
jackets, suits, ties, leather goods... However, I soon realized it
played a major role in the rise of the "star", that we see now culmi-
was too overwhelming and there was so much I didn't know, in
nated in Hollywood and gossip/fashion mags all over the world.
IT
SEEMS
LIKE
A
order to get it all right. So I started focusing on accessories because, for me, they really define a wardrobe. They can easily lend
WHAT DOES ST YLE ME AN TO MEN IN
character to an outfit, and generally, can fit anyone, meaning
G E N E R A L ? I think style for men has meant many things
there is no sizing involved. I had also had a hard time finding
as generations have come and gone. In the Victorian and Ed-
unique cufflinks that were reasonably priced for the materials
wardian eras, it was all about the man as a dandy, from the 40's
and design they gave me. I'm not the type of person who wants a
to 60's it was the dark suited corporate man, then transitioned
plain disk of metal on my cuff, where's the character, the design?
to the jeans and t-shirt rebel or the long hair hippy. Men of in-
I get simplicity, but I felt there was something missing there. So,
trigue are rare these days, although there seems to be resurgence
I wanted to create pieces that had the elegance of simple pieces
in the past few years. These days, we've seen a resurgence of the
but the character of more designed ones.
dandy aesthetic, mixed with portions of the styles from the past, which has created an interesting blend for the present. Moreover,
HOW AND WHERE WAS YOUR BRAND
I think style for men will always represent a wardrobe they can
F I R S T I N T R O D U C E D ? We had our soft launch
wear day in and day out and look "right" with in any given situa-
in 2013 at the Abu Dhabi Formula 1 Gran Prix. It was a really
tion; whether at the office, the bar, nice restaurant, on the week-
F##-+(GH |! 2 9
end, etc. Men are about utility and about the ease with which
my own pieces where they make sense, but to me an outfit should
something can be used/worn. We're seeing that change now, but
be elegant, and subtly surprising, instead of hitting you over the
I think that will always be part of the foundation for mens' style.
head with labels or price tags or loud colors.
HOW CAN MEN CONNECT WITH THEIR
WHAT SORT OF CUSTOMERS DO YOU
FASHIONABLE
DESIGN
SIDE
IN
A
MASCU-
FOR?
Our customer can be almost any-
L I N E W A Y ? So this has been a key thing for me actually,
one, which is one of the really exciting things about doing this.
as I want to ensure that my pieces/collections are pieces that both
Whether it's a rakish financier in London, a marketing execu-
are enjoyable to wear and don't come across as kitsch, like I think
tive in NYC, a creative blogger/designer in Bangkok or a grand-
many cufflinks do. It's been a little easier in the past few years
mother in Michigan, so many people connect with the brand
to make men's accessories, as it's becoming more acceptable and
and the collections that it's amazing to see the connections!
standard for a man to be wearing bracelets, rings, necklaces, etc. And with the rise of interest in vintage watches, dandyism and
IS
MONSIEUR
FOX
WITH
ITS
DE-
'50's styling, tie clips, pocket squares, and cufflinks have come
S I G N S A S O R T O F R E B E L L I O N ? To be
back into the limelight, too.
honest, not really! Although one thing I try to maintain is to keep the aesthetic of each piece classic in the sense of not using
CAN
OF
enamel colors, etc. so that the piece can maintain a certain lux-
FOX”?
ury and professionalism. We are essentially trying to make more
Monsieur Fox is natural in any situation. Monsieur Fox embod-
interesting versions of what many people do already. We do rebel
ies the elegant, modem rounder. Sophisticated, yet relaxed, he
in terms of how our pieces are made; they are all handmade in
is wordy with humility. Suave, yet without ostentatious display,
Dubai, by really talented local artisans. With our revenues we
just touches of charming whimsy throughout his attire and de-
help them get official certifications for their skills and expertise,
meanor. Adventurous and a bit of a rogue, creating stories that
enabling them to get better salaries and lead better quality lives
become legends told and re-told by all those who know him.
for themselves and their families.
WHAT
YOU
GIVE
IS
“VERY
AN
EXAMPLE
MONSIEUR
Understated, retaining a lost aristocratic air, and tempered by empathy, just by his presence he gives others a feeling of eleva-
WHERE
DO
THE
tion and good will. A smashing good time with the ladies and a
THEIR
humble legend with the gents, he is equally at home in opulent
names from French men who were either real (they played
ballrooms and seedy back alley pubs. Considered the prince of
some major/minor role in the history of France) or a real
sundries, Monsieur Fox presents the best of form and function,
French name but with a fictional story behind it. I wanted to
with a dash of subtle irreverence for good measure.
create a story about the pieces so that people would feel a con-
NAMES?
CUFFLINKS
GET
Our first collection got all our
nection with the inspiration behind the piece and the design For me personally, I would rather have a few well - made things
would make more sense to them.
than many poorly made ones. And being well made doesn't necessarily mean "expensive", it just means that there was attention, care
NAME ONE OF YOUR FASHION ICONS.
and expertise that went into the making of something, more than
The style eras I consider iconic are the ’50s Italian Riviera, and the
just the thought of reducing cost or increasing volumes. In light of
early, roaring 20s in the U.S. Both of these periods were filled with
that, my wardrobe is relatively small, but with quality staple pieces:
wonder and excitement over future possibilities and an exuberance
handmade shirts from a Neapolitan tailors, hand stitched pants
that I think we have yet to match, and both occurred very short-
made by excellent tailors here in Dubai, wonderful shoes made by
ly after World Wars. Oscar Wilde is another favorite (arguably
the venerable Mr. Hare, mod black jackets by Julius, etc. I filter in
the first “dandy”, and quite the dresser), so I’d say he’s an icon.
3 0 | F##-+(GH
MY FAVORITES
K senia Me z e n t s e v a !"#$%&"'(#()&*"+,"#-&".+$/01"23&*(4".43"5+$*"(*"6%33(41"" 7$&."%8"(*"9%$+8&"4*0".43"&0%'4#&0"(*"#-&":;1"$&'&(<(*7"-&$"/4#&3#" 0&7$&&",$+=">+/%=5(4"?%3(*&33";'-++/"&4$/(&$"#-(3"@&4$A" B+04@"3-&"(3"543&0"(*"C+3'+."4*0"(3"#-&">9D"+,"#-&"/4$7&3#"/+@4/#@" 8$+7$4="(*"6%33(4A"E(#-"4"54'F7$+%*0"(*",43-(+*"4*0"/(,&3#@/&" (*0%3#$(&31"3-&"(3"*+"3#$4*7&$"#+"#-&".+$/0"+,"/%G%$@A H-+#+7$48-@"5@"I('#+$(4"24'-4/+<4
3 2 | J33%&"KL
Dress Michael Kors, Jewelr y: Piaget ring and necklace, Car tier bangles
C@ COUNTRY Today I live in Moscow with my husband and my puppy, Charlie. But my true love and the country that I absolutely adore is Italy. In 2010, Yevgeny and I had a beautiful wedding just outside of Florence – a four-day party at Villa Mangiacane, with about 200 of our closest friends and family. Since then, we go to Italy throughout the whole year – weekends in Rome with dear friends, summer concerts by Andrea Bocelli in Portofino, Capri and Positano for some sun and great shopping, and Venice for the Carnival and the Biennale.
C@"FA MILY Family is everything to me. We all live in different parts of the world. My parents and my youngest brother are in New York and Greenwich CT, my other brother is in school in Boston, Yevgeny’s parents are in California, and now we are based in Moscow. We keep family traditions of never missing birthdays and New Years. It is important to me to always be close to your loved ones.
C@"T R AV EL Travel is my passion (And my biggest weakness!) Being brought up between Moscow, Paris, London and New York, I think it became a part of my DNA to constantly move. I love discovering new places and cultures. My ideal trip would never be to a spa or a quiet beach. It would be the complete opposite – full of daily activities, changing cities and places. A constant movement! I love Latin America – Argentina the most. This January, we are going to spend 10 days in Peru. I cannot wait to be back to Machu Pichu, feeding the llamas and having the world’s most amazing ceviche.
C@"OBSESSION Education is my obsession. I love to study and learn new things. I have just completed my dual MBA at Columbia Business School and London Business School. Now suddenly, I have a full time job to manage! My friends are all laughing that. I urgently need something else to put my energy into – either another school or a baby. I am also thinking about learning Italian and getting a law degree.
3 4 | J33%&"KL
Helmut Lang leather pants, Gucci leopard print top, Jimmy Choo shoes (all)
C@"SHOES Jimmy Choo is an absolute winner for me. I buy almost every pair of Gilbert ever made. They are so comfortable and stylish.
J33%&"KL |! 3 5
Jacket: Gucci, Skir t: BCBGMaxazria, Shoes: Sergio Rossi, Earrings and ring: Piaget
M++01"=@ WEAKNESS Food is a very important part of my life. I live to eat. It’s not about the quantity – for me it’s the delicacy of tastes, combined with beautiful sparkles of red wines or rose champagnes. All over the world, I have favorite restaurants. They are Marea in New York, Otto & Mezzo Bombana in Hong Kong, Amis Louis in Paris, Brasserie at Arts Club in London, Sushi Mizutani in Tokyo, Cabana las Lilas in Buenos Aires,
Clock wise: Bir thday in Venice - September 2012 - K senia hosted a 2 day Venetian Carnival par t y for 30 of her closest friends; K senia and her husband Yevgeny; Jacob and Co Five Timezone World Map watch and Evil Eye bracelet
Michellangelo in Antibes, Bontempi in Moscow… and yes, a lot of them are Italian!
C@ WATCHE S When I was younger, my parents gave me a few Chopard pieces. They are stunning and very dear to me. I also own beautiful Rolex, Jacob and Cartier watches. My absolute favorite watch is the Breguet Reine de Naples that I believe is one of the most beautiful watches ever made.
DESIGNERS I don’t have one favorite brand. I love to wear pencil skirts and dresses to work and I love what Victoria Beckham, Alexander McQueen and Roland Mouret are making, for working women like myself. I often custom make dresses for work. It is extremely convenient – you get exactly the design you want. On weekends, during the day, I wear leather pants. Helmut Lang makes the best ones, combined with comfortable sweaters and shirts or jeans. I love long skirts by modern American and Russian designers. For events, I love Marchesa, Herve Leger, Gucci and Oscar De La Renta (Who designed my wedding dress). Columbia Business School, her Global E xecutive MBA graduation (top); With her friend Nino's dog Gosha
BOOKS I don’t read e-books. I am old-fashioned and love the feel of paper. Marking my thoughts on the sidelines of the book is a part of the experience for me. During my two years of studying for an Executive MBA, all I had time to read were hundreds of pages of business books and case studies for homework. On the way back home, after the Columbia Business School graduation in New York, I bought nine non-business related books that I so missed reading! I am now finishing “100 years of Solitude” by Gabriel Garcia Marques.
J33%&"KL |! 3 7
CITY LIFESTYLE
Ev olut i on o f L u x u r y
MOSC OW
!"#$%&'(#)*+,--.(
A L I S A KO R N E E VA /01#23''&(,#!"#!&+456#7+-,85#&,#1"#5-(9#(,9#(#: ";'"#&,#1"#'*3%<## .WZ UM Q\ [ LQâ&#x20AC;«Ù»â&#x20AC;¬K]T\ \W [\Ia QV WVM KW]V\Za NWZ I TWVO XMZQWL WN \QUM # /#5(.-#(%=("'#5(9#45&'#&,'(4&(!%-#9-'&+-#4*#->;%*+-#,-=#;%(8-'6#1--4#,-=# XMWXTM IVL KPITTMVOM Ua[MTN Ja ILWX\QVO Z]TM[ IVL \ZILQ\QWV[ WN \PM NWZMQOV KW]V\Za 1 WXMVML Ua W_V J][QVM[[ I\ \PM IOM WN ! I KPIQV WN PMIT\P JIZ[ KITTML W 4QNM *a \PM IOM WN 1 PIL TQ^ML QV 5QIUQ IVL 6M_ AWZS PIL LWVM Ua 5I[\MZ[ IVL PIL _WZSML QV 8IZQ[ ·_PQTM I\ \PM [IUM \QUM M`XTWZQVO W\PMZ KW]V\ZQM[ IVL KQ\QM[ IZW]VL \PM _WZTL <WLIa 1 U JIKS QV 5W[KW_ <PQ[ Q[ \PM KQ\a _PMZM 1 _WV VWUQVI\QWV[ NWZ 5Q[[ 5W[KW_ QV ! 6W_ILIa[ 1 LW LQOQ\IT UIZSM\QVO IVL IL^MZ\Q[QVO I\ +WVLu 6I[\ :][[QI # 1 \Z]Ta TW^M \PQ[ KQ\a NWZ Q\[ TI^Q[P [KITM QV M^MZa\PQVO · _WZS WXXWZ\]VQ\QM[ [XIKM XMWXTM MV\MZ\IQVUMV\° IVL WN KW]Z[M T]`]Za 3 8 | 1[[]M 6
“Moscow is amazing for business and entertainment, but absolutely impossible to live" – I read this once in a business magazine and it seemed to me a true story of this city. A megalopolis, (With a population of about 15 million), has proved itself as the Mecca of
So let me reveal you some secrets of a new Moscow...
W HER E TO STAY
luxury entertainment, dining out and shopping. Three words best describe Moscow - speed, choice and change. No wonder this city caught up with (and even outstripped) such cities as Milan, Paris, and New York. Maybe not in terms of fashion, but in terms of entertainment and social life, it has for sure! Over the last twenty five years, Moscow has transcended all main stages of luxury evolution - from subjugation, when there was nothing after the USSR collapsed, to the point where people have the money to show off - a fancy car, a big brand statement on their clothes and handbags. The change has been particularly remarkable over the last five years. I well remember how it happened. Back then it was an era of oligarchs, surrounded by pretty models. These were years of uncontrolled expenses, of Champagne magnums and 7 digit sums spent in the nightclubs. I once heard that one businessman was so intent on impressing the young models who were with him that he spent almost $1 million just for the Champagne and black caviar in the club. Of course, when money is simply an expression of vulgarity, the quality of the offer is very low. Restaurants for example, while being very expensive, often offered very poor quality. They could have overcooked your St.Jaques or run out of all of the expensive wine that they pretended they had, but which
FOUR SEASONS
!"#$%&'()*#+*,-#.(/00(
Just opened 1 month ago, it has the best views of the Red Square, the best location facing the Bolshoy Theater and the Russian Duma guaranteed.
only appeared on the wine list and had never been in the cellar. Then came the financial crash, and a period of slowing down and less conspicuous consumption followed. Now, in 2014, Moscow is more in line with the great European cities. The correlation between money and quality is much more evident. Instead, there are discrete private bars; restaurants have become more authentic, with refined menus and excellent food. Many world renowned hotel chains have located in Moscow – with high–end spas, restaurants and shops. The Russian Fashion industry is awake from its long sleep and now nurtures very talented designers who are well-
R I T Z C A R LTON
known, not only in Russia, but in such fashionable cities. Russian
1"#230/4%,*,#.(/00(#
bloggers have thrown off the shadow of ‘The Iron Curtain’ and com-
Very trendy, frequented by celebrities and A-listers coming to
pete with the best journalists and photographers of the fashion world.
Moscow and a great location. The Espa is an added bonus.
1[[]M 6 |# 3 9
W HER E TO E AT
WHITE R ABBIT
1"#.='70)4%,*,#.>;,/0#
The place to see and be seen. But don't forget about the food - it's excellent there. The chef, Vladimir Mukhin, is considered to be one of the most talented young chefs in the world. The restaurant was ranked amongst the World's 100 Best restaurants by S.Pellegrino.
UILLIAMS
BL ACK TH A I
!5,"#6,7,*,#8/')),*,#.(/00(
9"#8'74&'*#:;(<)%'34%<*#.(/00(
This place is loved for the New York atmosphere, great food and
A new baby of the lawyer Alexander Rappoport, Black Thai
cool crowd. The best time to visit is late spring or summer, when
features a pure, authentic Thai cuisine, an excellent cocktail list
the windows are open and there are people drinking in the street.
and is said to be a gastronomic restaurant, open until the late.
4 0 | 1[[]M 6
W H AT TO SEE
BOLSHOI THE ATER
1"#:0(/'3%,#.(/00(
For Opera or ballet, or just to see the Russian main cultural institute reopened after a 9-year renovation and finished in 2011. The Bolshoi building, which for many years now has been regarded as one of Moscowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main sights, was opened on 20 October 1856, on Tsar Alexander IIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coronation day.
THE STATE TR ET YA KOV G A LLERY
VOROBIEV Y GORY
@0)<)4%<*0#A'/*
?5"#@,3/;4&<)4%*#.(/00(
An observation deck on the hill in the west of Moscow. Come
A Gallery with the richest collection of Russian fine art in
during the sunset when there is still light and get a great pano-
the world.
ramic view of Moscow and Lomonosov Moscow State University.
1[[]M 6 |# 4 1
W HER E TO GO OUT
SIM ACHEV BA R
?!"#.('704&)<%'3#.(/00(#
This used to be a bar and boutique of a Russian designer, Denis Simachev. When he stopped his career as a designer, he decided to keep the bar in one of the most luxurious streets in Moscow. The bar is known for itsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; strict face control - you have to be cool to pass the door!
CHAINAYA BAR
MENDELEEV BAR
?#230/4%,*,BC,=4%,*,"#!D#E7-F?
!5"#:0(/'3%,#.(/00(
Very difficult to find and even more difficult to get in (Better to come
A hidden bar. To enter, you have to pass the Chinese noodle shop.
in groups of 2-3). The place is tiny but they are known for the excellent
There is a strict face control here as well, but the best electro music in
Chinese cuisine and best teas and cocktails in town.
town and cocktails are worth a try! The noodles are great by the way .
4 2 | 1[[]M 6
M Y FAV O R I T E E X P E R I E N C E S
G OR K Y PA R K
D"#G7<(4,#H/*=4%<*#I,7 In summer or on any warm days, go to Gorky Park. A completely renovated, 120 hectare, city space, accommodating an open-air cinema center, different sporting grounds, a skate park, a couple of lakes with various water attractions, the gallery of contemporary art and many nice restaurants. My tip is to take roller blades in the morning, stroll along the embankment when it is not that crowded, then have lunch at one of the restaurants overlooking the river or one of the lakes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I like Pryanosti I Radosti or Oyster Bar. After lunch, you can check the expo at Garage center of contemporary art, or go and dance salsa in one of the free salsa classes by the river, next to Andreevsky Most.
KR ASNIY OCTYABR
(R ED OCTOBER)
J"#80/40)034%,*,#),E
Previously known as the chocolate factory and now the home for artists, designers, architects, new media professionals and other creative minds. Here you can not only visit galleries for cool photography expos (like The Lumiere Brothers photo gallery), or do some shopping at Suit Supple, but also you can "stay by night"The best cocktails and sunset terrace is still at bar Strelka. The best wine and snacks are at Primitivo wine bar. You will find refined Italian food at Bontempi. And and if you get lucky enough to know the member, you can end partying at the closest members-only club in Moscow, Chateau de Fantomas. Their shows are awesome and became legendary in Moscow!
1[[]M 6 |# 4 3
INTERIORS
Ma x
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PROJECT DEEP HOUSE, MOSCOW The aim of Project Deep House was to create a comfortable, modern, interior, with a proper bed and dressing room. The multilevel lighting (built-in lamps, chandeliers, floor lamps) that we used created a special ambience, depending on the time of day. Mood contour LED lighting emphasized the "floating" ceiling. The apartment is dominated by warm, rich, colours and almost all the furniture, trim elements (all wall panels) were created specifically for this project. Suspended cabinets and lower lying cabinets and surfaces have facilitated the general form of the kitchen. The bed, kitchen, shelves and chest of drawers in the room were manufactured under the Max Kasymov Design brand. The styling direction combined a modern mix, which harmoniously created a variety of textures, materials and furniture. The features of the apartmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s architecture were constructed in the mid-20th century and were built on the combination of minor amounts of rectangular volumes, with domination of large areas of the bearing walls and partitions. To give momentum and space, we used finishing materials with different contrasting textures: Large format porcelain tiles and clear glass. One of the difficulties encountered in the process of construction was a concrete girder (design feature of the building). I cleaned off layers of wallpaper and plaster, and left it in its original form. It is very impressively etched traces of formwork boards. It was washed out and covered with a special compound, which adds a strong urban contrast to the luxury interior. Project Deep House demonstrates how you can create a stylish space with maximum functionality and aesthetic design. Now studio Max Kasymov interior / design are undertaking several new and interesting projects of residential spaces, as well as designing pieces of furniture that will soon be presented to the public.
Floor lamp, chairs by OKHA interiors
4 6 | !""#$%&'
A fragment of the bedrooms. Behind the concrete girder concealed air conditioning. Mirror door in the hallway lead into the dressing room
Glass sliding door separates the bedroom from the kitchen and dining area. Relief wood panel made in designer's manufacture
Yellow chair and lamp, OKHA Interiors. Coffee tables, Max Kasymov Design
5 0 | !""#$%&'
IN THE MOOD FOR
FA I RY TA L E S !"#$#%&'(")*+,-
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WATCH STORIES
SIHH
G e n e v a's S a l o n I nt e r n a t i o n a l d e l a H a u t e Ho r l o g e r i e
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T H E FE M A L E TOUCH The first person ever to wear a wrist voice was Elizabeth 1st of England in 1571. Despite this, the watch industry has generally concentrated most of its efforts on the preferences and needs of men. The Salon of 2014, however, signalled that this bias was becoming a thing of the past with almost every major company creating pieces that appeal to women’s love of beauty. 2015 SIHH, confirms this trend is here to stay. The watches mentioned here are often concept watches and therefore at the very top end of the premium market. Definitely only for the crème de la crème.
Baume & Mercier has “clocked” the fact that women need to colour code their wardrobe much more than men, it’s interchangeable coloured strap system is hugely popular. They are also ver y exquisite: the range has a snailed finish, motherof-pearl dial with riveted indices and has a handwoven lambskin bracelet. For 2015, they’re promoting a new timewatch called Promesse. Purchasers of Promesse can have any message they choose engraved on the back of the watch.
5 6 | )2290#E,
Piaget have returned to the 60s and 70s for inspiration – calling their thir tyseven item collection: Extremely Piaget. As the name suggests, these are not for ever yday wear or – for that matter – ever yday women. They all have a signature gemstone dial with silver-toned dials and claw-set diamond bezels. Each of the brilliant 24-cut diamonds is individually handcut.
R ICH A R D MILLE Tourbillon RM 19-01 Natalie Portman. Apparently the spider was Portman’s choice because it is a symbol of "feminine energy and creativity. A mistress of fate and weaver of reality, the spider is the symbol of the soul but also freedom." The face portrays a diamond-encrusted spider that appears trapped in a tonneau-shaped, diamond-covered case. The abdomen of the spider supports the bridges of the tourbillon, and its legs support the two winding barrels. Craftsmanship like this has catapulted this company into the top league of Haute Horlogerie.
N O S TA L G I A Having time to spare is now a statement about status. As we hurtle through life at ever-increasing speed, cramming more and more into the same daily span of twenty-four hours, many in the watch world are in a nostalgic mood. Some of the most striking designs signalled for 2015, are timepieces that reference a more leisured age.
Another par ticularly wonder ful timepiece is that by Roger Dubuis - named: The Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon Automatic.This exclusive timepiece features a minute repeater with centrifugal sound dissipator, a flying tourbillon, and double micro-rotors. The minute repeater mechanism chimes three different sounds: the hours on a low tone, minutes on a high tone, and quar ter hours on alternating high and low tones.
Piaget, after consulting its archives from half a centur y, is presenting its oval Black Tie Vintage. The case is white gold, with a finely stepped bezel that builds upwards to a flat, radially brushed bezel.
Parmigiani brings thenew Tonda 1950 Squelette men’s watch comes in a 39 mm x 7.8 mm white gold case and is powered by automatic manufacture caliber PF 705.
C A RTIER It has developed an astonishingly looking watch which looks like one of Dali’s surreal twisted clocks. The dial is completely skeletonised, covered with oversized Roman numerals that reveal the movement beneath: the hand-wound calibre 9618 MC beating at 28,800 vibrations per hours and offering a remarkable power reserve of 3 days. The aesthetic association with Dali is coincidental. In fact, it was first produced in 1967 to commemorate the death of Vice President of Cartier London following a car accident. The twisted shape references the melted watch found on the dead man’s wrist. Given the beauty of the piece, it’s unlikely that many will be put off by this tragic backstory. If so, this watch will likely become a prized collector’s piece.
!""#$%&' |! 5 7
S P O R T S WAT C H E S The mood of nostalgia has even impacted the development and design of sport watches – either by the revival of old models or by evoking the memory of a particular moment in sporting history. Car racing and aviation are particularly popular in this respect.
Audemars Piguet has produced a legacy collection for today’s luxur y spor t-watch aficionados adding in a few contemporar y notes to ensure the best of both worlds. The Royal Oak Offshore has always enjoyed iconic status. As many know the design theme was inspired by a diver's brass helmet.
Ralph Lauren, himself a well-known car collector, has used the luxurious 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe as a star ting off point for the aptly named Automotive Chronograph. To have superior movement per formance, Ralph Lauren collaborated with Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Richard Mille the RM Piaget has 33-01 Timepiece. unveiled something The company loves remarkable: The Piaget to align the per formance Altiplano Chronograph. and aesthetics of their This makes it the timepieces with world's thinnest contemporar y racecars. hand-wound flyback One manifestation chronograph. of this aesthetic is the The in-house 883P handmaterials used in wound chronograph the timepieces: calibre is the true aluminum-lithium, highlight of this timepiece. or thorhombic titanium 14 of the 25 operational aluminide, carbon fiber. movements within.
THE FUTUR E The world of watches combines precision engineering with artistic imagination. A sign of the health of the sector is that there are also some amazing concept pieces in this year’s line-up. In this regard, the most notable illustration of verve and imagination comes from Audemar Piguet with an extraordinary chiming watch. The work into this launch has taken no less than eight years. To get the acoustics right, a stringed instrument maker, an academic from Geneva’s conservatory and an engineer from the Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne were all drafted in. So much more than a sporting watch, it is a remarkable indication of the imaginative verve and craftsmenship that the top watchmakers lavish on their creations.
5 8 | !""#$%&'
S A LO N Q P
T h e f i n e w a t c h e x h i b it i o n
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SERPENTI WATCH BULGARI
BOHEME JEWELLERY MONTBLANC
HIGH JEWELLERY CARTIER
HISTOIRE DE TOURBILLON 5 HARRY WINSTON
A highlight of the event was the Gems of Time exhibition. This is
watch industry.’ On display were the winners of the GPHG –
the first time that SalonQP has included this, and with the exhi-
less than a week after they were announced!
bition dedicated to jewellery watches, it added an extra hint of glamour and variety. Fine pieces from Cartier, De Beers, Piaget
There was a real sense of excitement at this year’s event. Guests
and Bulgari were all magnificently on show.
had the chance to interact in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s sound lab, which gave them the opportunity to learn about the exquisite
A particular favourite of ours was Harry Winston’s Histoire de
minute repeater. Tag Heuer had a Batak machine on their
Tourbillon 5 – part of a sophisticated collection of limited edition
stand – the very same machine that is used to test the reaction
pieces. The watch reveals the exceptional mechanisms behind the
times of Formula one racing drivers.
tri-axial tourbillon and is limited to only 20 pieces around the world… a collectors dream! It is also the first model in the series
The atmosphere was dynamic, engaging audiences and cre-
to be available in 18k rose gold. It definitely stole the show.
ating the ultimate luxury experience in the most exciting
This was also the first year that SalonQP partnered up with the
way possible. We now wait with anticipation to see what
Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Geneve, with the ‘Oscars of the
SalonQP 2015 will entail.
6 0 | )2290#E,
ECONOMICS
E v e r y t h in g i s a r r a n ge d !"#$%&'$%(!')!&*%!*+,-./0+,-.!#1!23,&'%(!3)4!(*#22')5!6%!$3.!1#,5%&1+--.! 6#)4%,!6*3&!'(!$#,%!'$2#,&3)&7!8.!5,3)413&*%,!3)(6%,%4! &*3&!9+%(&'#)!3(!:!;#')%4!*'$!('&&')5!+)4%,!3!<==!.%3,!#-4!>%03)%(%! ?%43,@!3&!&*%!%45%!#1!*'(!&6%-A%!3?,%!1,#)&!-36)7!B%!$#A%4!*'(!1##&!')!&*%! )%%4-%(!3)4!(3'4!&#!$%@!C8.!4%3,!0#.@!'1!.#+,!?*'-4,%)!($'-%!6*%)!&*%.! *%3,!.#+,!)3$%!.#+!6'--!D)#6!.#+,!-'1%!63(!6#,&*!3!?3,,#&7E! 0.!F3'!B3$'-&#) 6 2 | :((+%!GH
We were all sad to see the ‘Virgin on the impossible’ spacecraft
what rogue governments were planning on a day to day basis. It was
and it’s pilot blown up after those good wishes for the project
only a matter of time before the secret police in those governments
coming out of the summer edition of this magazine. Dickie
wanted a larger piece of his $60 billion profits a year. In that pur-
Planes is unlikely to take that lying down so Brad and Ange-
suit, they persuaded the US government power brokers to think that
lina can relax while their five minute weightless photo-shoot
his business ethics were suspect and he must be money laundering.
is still on. It was also a tragedy at the same time that the boss
As many readers of this magazine know, it’s impossible not to go
of Total, Christophe de Margerie, whose bravery I wrote
to the laundry when you’re shifting $60 billion a year. But Mark
about in this column last time round, had his jet rammed by
never succumbed to a threat in his whole life, so the tactics became
a reversing bulldozer in Moscow. The children of two fine men
crude. With Mark refusing to pay extra, those with no names in
who broke the mould will smile when they are remembered.
government mounted the campaign to sabotage his trading platforms throughout Europe and worldwide.
Marc Rich was a man who broke the mould whose remaining children are still smiling, despite a 50 count indictment against their
Considering the stakes, it was hardly surprising that business
father brought on by vengeful U.S. power brokers under RICO.
rivals would stoop to any tactics in an effort to replace him, in-
Marc was no ordinary man and the undermining of his business
cluding deals with secret police forces. The pressure exerted on
was a punitive and inappropriate campaign started as a tax case.
the American government to discredit him was significant and
The accusations moved on to illegal trading with Iran just as
RICO was used against him unlawfully and later abandoned,
the U.S. Government became aware and even awe struck by the
as everyone now knows. Bill Clintoris (A like minded entrepre-
commercial possibilities coming to light in that vast part of cen-
neur before becoming President of the United States), consid-
tral Asia called Kazakhstan. Marc was forced to leave the USA for
ered Marc Rich blameless and despite savage phone calls from
Switzerland in 1983 and he became very big in that, as the last of
the former attorney general’s office, granted him a presidential
the Soviet Republics to declare independence. By 1991 he was best
pardon on his last day of office. It was delivered to one of the
friends with Cremov Turtlebroth, the leader of the nomadic tribes
world’s most spectacular mansions in Switzerland and made
who (because he was already the Soviet choice) became president
Marc the only man in history to have received such a pardon
of the Republic of Kazakhstan. The Soviets had used his country
for his crimes, without having first been convicted of them.
as a dustbin for people like Dostoyevsky and Solzhenitsyn and ten million more, but that stopped when they realised these tur-
There had been no power struggle in Kazakhstan and Cremov
co-mongoles and their goats were sitting on various minerals and
Turtlebroff and his three daughters – The beautiful Doggi, the
massive crude oil and natural gas basins. Marc had already prom-
gentle Moggi and the sexually-aggressive Soggi enjoyed private
ised Cremov Turtleboth stability, opportunity and untold wealth.
jets and fitted intelligently into any conversation throughout the capitals of Europe. It was quite like the English Christmas pan-
Mark was already known as a titan dealing in strategic quantities
tomime with the evil male Kazakh power brokers aspiring to run
of the world’s raw materials and other natural resources and com-
the country because they were relatives of government minis-
pounds. In fact he controlled the economies of at least 24 countries
ters. They opened doors for a flood of incoming investment and
alongside oil reserves in Soviet Russia, precious metal mines in Peru,
amongst those eager to be involved were none other than the Amer-
refineries in Romania and smelters in Australia, Iran, Sardinia and
ican banks ready to fill the hole left by the besieged Marc Rich.
West Virginia. At any given time he could manipulate the price of
Yung Dolli-Bird (A Kazakh by birth but divorced as soon as
aluminium, sugar, soy, nickel, lead, zinc, tin, chrome, magnesium,
she could get away) made up some stories about her connec-
copper and even coal. Marc Rich was probably the only true busi-
tions back home and found herself in charge of the outflow of
nessman who deserved the title ‘Master of the universe’. He used his
investment from private high net worth US banking customers
connections to provide the CIA and Mossad with intelligence about
into Kazakh projects. The private jets headed for Almaty, the
:((+%!GH |! 6 3
capital of Kazakhstan, on the basis that those inside would de-
Cremov Turtlebroff had a clean sheet of paper and one of those
posit money in her bank if she secured a favourable way into
rare opportunities to break the mould before the essence of his
the juciest Kazakh deals. Yung Dolli-Bird was very close to
government became armed robbery. Irrespective of democracy
Emir Bagatelle, who was inviting investment in hotels and also
where the voters are allowed to fantasize that they set the course,
his cousin, Wanna Kashitin, who was creating partnerships to
it is always the power brokers behind the scenes who drive the
extract the oil and gas. They had both been behind the merci-
ship. The votes simply attest that the winning candidate does the
less discrediting of Mark Rich and the take-over of his $ mul-
best hoodwinking job. All the while, the power brokers have that
ti-billion commodity trading activities by the cancellation of
one constant occupation which is to use the power of the State to
his supply contracts. Either of them, if not both, were also a
transfer wealth from the voters to themselves.
good prize for any girl, if you like that sort of herdsman thing. In the old days, they were unapologetic about it. Even as late as ‘Emir has a sizeable wedge’ she said to me at the party to wel-
the 19th century, Napoleon’s army stomped over Europe with
come the incoming American ambassador.
Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity on their lips but with larceny in their hearts. The soldiers of the Grande Armée stole everything
‘A successful man is one who makes more money than his girl-
they could cart away. Now, modern government demands more
friend can spend’ I replied.
fraud than force. Capitalism depends on complex, trusting relationships and long-term fixed investments. Stealing outright dis-
Since there was enough scope for everyone in the supply structure
rupts progress and threatens output. This in turn weakens econo-
and Cremov Turtlebroff’s country needed everything, from basic
mies. Weak economies, like Ukraine, can’t afford much firepower.
infrastructure to all kinds of luxury goods, it would have been an easy matter to teach these simple people the generous possi-
That was what led China and Russia to abandon their creeds in the
bilities in capitalism in such an investor paradise. But the power
late 20th Century. Command economies are weak economies and
brokers who broke Marc Rich thought they had a clear play-
weak economies can’t compete militarily. They had learned from the
ing field. They should have been mindful that the Islamics were
French Revolution that major countries needed to make the common
planning building mosques as fast as they could make the bricks.
people feel that they were in charge of the government. Similarly, after Bismarck, political parties found they needed to offer the voters
I had the surprise of Marc Rich’s daughter Gabrielle auditioning
some form of social welfare benefits to avoid the revolt of the masses.
for a part in a film I was making in London. She was unaware of my friendship with Marc but during filming we spent an afternoon
These realisations have turned today’s governments into huge
at my grandfather’s house and sat under that great Lebanese cedar.
kleptocratic insurance companies, running grossly inefficient health care and pension programmes. The power brokers steal
‘Your father is a great man’ I assured her.
a large part of the cash-flow, making the outrages of the banks and bailouts go unpunished because the people have been led
‘You do not have to be rich to be great’ she smiled. ‘The people
into a trap. They have become absorbed in demanding more
who tore my father’s life to pieces are mistaken to think money
leisure time and more healthcare so they can pay for more in-
buys you greatness.’
surance programmes and pension contributions. In Europe and America, substantial real income gains ended in the
Afterwards, inside the US Gabrielle died. The FBI had more
‘70s. The old Fords and Rockefellers were gone. The new capitalists
agents at the funeral than mourners in the hope that Marc was
were so fettered with taxes, rules and regulations that they found it
there in disguise. They had also announced that Marc couldn’t
hard to move ahead. People wanted more benefits. They looked to
be bothered to attend his daughter’s funeral.
the government and the credit industry to supply them. The dol-
6 4 | :((+%!GH
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lar was cut loose from gold in 1968, making them go deeper into
The Fed only owes some $212 trillion and if we are going to live
real debt than ever before. As benefit levels rose, the more impor-
7% longer in these healthy years then that’s, let me see, $14.8
tant they became to the people receiving them but also the more
trillion more in pensions and health care benefits.
costly they became to the governments. Taxes could not be cut nor could be benefits, so all they could do was borrow more money.
My friend Marc Rich died last year. Before I decide whether to go back and live in Kazakhstan, I want Cremov Turtlebroff to
In America social welfare expenses could still be financed by cut-
learn a lesson from another Marc. This time it’s Marc Duvivier,
ting military spending. However with the power brokers con-
the mayor of Ath in Belgium who refused a demand from par-
trolling the defence and security industries they had made it into
ents that pork be abolished in all the school canteens. The town
a giant part of the insurance complex, with more millions of jobs,
clerk sent a note to all parents to explain why.
more health care and retirement benefits. They also fed themselves with control of US$ trillions of contracts to interfere in
Lucretius, writing about a hundred years before the birth of Christ,
every part of the planet where horrible people were going about
knew a few things. In Erectus Natura he described the world very
their own power broking in their own back yards.
differently. The world emerging from the calm, orderly and controllable world of Nature. ‘It is world of atoms’, he said. ‘They are
The good news is that life expectancy is on the rise so more of us
constantly colliding with each other, like mating themselves, full
have a good chance of living long enough to see greying popula-
of huffing and puffing, sweating in a chaos of conjunction.’
tions, heavy debt and slow growth. The last time I looked, the US was already so far underwater that it was sure to get the bends.
Sounds like the power brokers to me!
:((+%!GH |! 6 5
HUNTING
6 6 | !""#$%&'
TOP WINGSHOOTING DESTINATIONS ()%*+,+%*)-.,$/-+" Having traded the concrete jungle of investment banking for an “office“ in the great outdoors, I’m often asked if I would go back my previous life. Those who have spent nights listening to the lions roar, or who have seen the sun rise in the most dramatically wild locations, will understand why the answer to that question is always an emphatic “NO!” Now, (well into my second decade of travelling the world with my guns), there is a wealth of lessons learnt that have made it possible to open new destinations for the travelling sportsmanEspecially if you want to ensure that when on location, you have that little bit of luxury that makes everything comfortable. For most people, a hunt is about living a dream. So it is important to know that there is more to the deal than the hunting itself. Just because you are in “the bush” does not mean that you need to go without. The luxuries of Wi-Fi, highly accomplished chefs and some spectacular accommodations mean that even though you are in the field through the day, you can get back at night to a relaxing evening of browsing the web, with a glass of your favourite scotch in hand. Believe it or not, when you are in darkest depths of Africa, off the power grid, our people are working hard to ensure you have ice in that whiskey! So lets look at some of the destinations that I think rank highest in the world for quality and adventure. It’s not just about the luxury, but also about the quality of the hunt experience itself.
!""#$%&' |! 6 7
SCOTLAND’S SHOOTING HER ITAGE
THE C ATA L A N PA RT R I D G E EX PER IENCE
There are few places in the world where hunting is as intrinsically
The tradition of shooting driven partridges in Spain goes to the
part of the fabric of a country's DNA, as Scotland. Home to
core of the wing shooting history of this country. To my mind,
over 90% of the worlds heather moorland, it is also the only place
the Catalan mountains close to Barcelona offer one of the finest
you go to shoot the famous Red Grouse - This bird has earned its
settings in which you could ask to be shown Partridges.
reputation as king of the game birds. The dramatic steep sided terrain allows the game to be shown as Traditionally, the moors are set out with lines of “butts”, (the
high fast crossers and the Spanish take pleasure in displaying a
source of innumerable jokes for our foreign visitors), which are
variety of targets and an adaptive shooting skill. As such, your day
sunken into the ground. With most grouse skimming the tops of
will be made up of a number of drives, each one demonstrating a
the heather, they appear in front of you so suddenly that you are
different style of shot opportunity.
relying on your nerves and reflexes to pull off a successful shot. Each hunter will be accompanied by his Secretario, whose job it Given that Scotland was the sporting playground of the rich
is to ensure that all of your equipment is conveyed to the stands.
and royal in the 1800’s, there is a legacy of some of the finest hunting lodges and castles that you could ask to stay in. But-
Beyond of the field, the Spanish tradition of fine food and
lers, house staff and all modern amenities are on hand. A pre
hospitality is beyond reproach. Traditional dishes prepared to
ordered wine list and menu can be approved using the finest
a very high standard are the norm. The freshest seafood and
ingredients available locally or specifically imported.
excellent meats are typical of even the most rustic restaurants. Accommodation is generally a boutique hotel close to the
When done well, modern sport in Scotland brings the bygone
hunting grounds, although for the more “Royal “ experience
days of the Edwardian shooting party to life, in a manner that
the castles offer unrivalled opulence and are available to the
today’s sportsman can appreciate.
traveller seeking a truly grand experience.
6 8 | !""#$%&'
HUNTING I N T HE DA R K CONTINENT
A RGENTINA VOLUME EX PER IENCE
Hunting in Africa is, and always has been, synonymous with
This is the place to go for high volume shooting. Due to a variety of
the big game hunters. Even today, much of Sub-Saharan Africa’s
ecological factors including a rise in agriculture, dove populations
hunting revolves around the pursuit of big game with a rifle. It
have exploded to what can only be described as plague proportions.
was on such a journey twelve years ago that I found myself following a tracker through the bush, and getting distracted by the
In addition to dove hunting, a wide variety of duck species,
sheer volume of game birds that were present.
pigeons and perdiz, (Argentina’s indigenous type of partridge) add variety to the sport.
Africa has over thirty different species of game bird and wildfowl to pursue, with many of them being unique to specific regions.
Accommodation is typically in one of the old Estancias- Many
This allows for not only many varied styles of shooting, but also
of which have been renovated to a very high standard and make
the chance to travel to differing regions in order to experience a
for the local equivalent of a rural boutique hotel. Rooms range
wide range of habitats that Africa exhibits. Shooting styles vary
from comfortable to luxurious, but always with a rustic charm that
between flighting ducks, geese, pigeons and doves.
harks back to an era of wealth and opulence.
Although always comfortably rustic, an African wing shooting trip
With a myriad of beef cuts featuring on the menu, the Argentine-
is not ostentatious in the way that some of the other destinations
ans really do know how to prepare a steak. You will enjoy this with
are. The reason it features here is because I consider it to be some
a variety of the countries fine wines, whist canapés of traditional
of the finest sport anywhere in the world and alongside my grouse
charcuterie and cheeses will precede most meals.
shooting, it is the one destination that stays in my diary year in, year out. The rustic charm always adds to the atmosphere of such a trip so
Argentina is without doubt a carnivore’s dream destination,
sitting round a fire, cooking steaks in the evening with a cold beer in
and if you think your waistline might shrink on location, you
your hand is much of what makes such a trip memorable.
are very much mistaken!
!""#$%&' |! 6 9
OPINION
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7 0 | "##$%!&'
There are thousands of stories of courage and determination in
it never has any fruit.’ The tree has to be rooted and watered
war and all of them attest to one thing only – the bravery of indi-
to bear fruit so “Let’s make those New Year resolutions to start
viduals who fight for a cause because they are loyal to that cause.
the ball rolling”. We have our remaining diamonds for a revived
Millions of lives have been lost in horrendous circumstances and
meaning in our lives and for new work. None of us would think
in massacres of innocent civilians. All these atrocities are occa-
of planting a dismal dead thing in the hope of a new and bold
sioned by loyalty. It is our leaders who cause extremism and it is
beginning. We all know there is no work, no device, no knowl-
the power brokers whose greed and control pours the oil on the
edge, no possession that means anything after we are gone. To
fire. Without their oil, the machine does not run.
make a difference we have to do what we have to do right here, right NOW. This is why we make New Year resolutions to build
So what now? How do we look for a Happy New Year now?
on whatever good we hope to leave behind.
‘Now’ lasts only as long as we have to live. However, how long could that ‘Now’ be? For the youngest it is not too young to die
Whatever war we have fought for whatever loyalties, whatever med-
and for the oldest it is not too old to live. The eleventh hour may
als we have won, whatever victories we have secured in the name
well be ticking along, for me anyway, but there may be a few
of our leaders, what have we benefitted from? The power brokers
minutes left. All those hours lost. Bygones must be bygones. The
make good money from warmongering and our leaders have always
time left is precious like never before. Suppose you’ve been giv-
followed them. Thus armaments are exported, many with faked
en a bag of diamonds in your life worth some fortune. Without
routing and forged export licences to breed every kind of extremism
knowing their value you had given them nearly all away. When
from a few madmen to a bonding of lunatics globally. Our leaders
only a few of your diamonds were left in the bag, someone told
created the backlash of al-Qaeda and Islamic State of Iraq and the
you how precious they were. Although you had given away a
Levant (Isil) joining together. It was in our doing that a crisis ever
fortune, you still had more than enough to secure your life and
existed in Iraq and Afghanistan and Syria. We interfered while pay-
that of your family forever. Would you hand out the rest of your
ing lip service to that useless group of unaccountable non-entities at
diamonds after the others? ‘Now’ is the reason you would keep
the United Nations and for their type of manipulated resolutions.
them all to yourself. ‘Now’ is not so much that you’ve got to do
More recently, they were arguing about their salaries when Ebola
something but rather that it is not possible to keep from doing
got a grip. The way forward is a simple matter of isolation. Shut up
something. So you might as well plan it and use your remaining
the maniacs who mutilate women and children. Shut their borders.
diamonds purposefully.
Cut their communication. Seize all their assets abroad. Lock up any power broker who breaks that mould. I do not mean reacting to
Happy New Year is what we are about to say to all our friends. It
one off incidents. I mean a proper and effective response to any re-
is a hearty, cheery, greeting that we like to get and to give to all
gime that mass murders its’ own people. Shut down the lunatics
those close to us because we would like to give them all some-
who hoard the wealth of a nation and in the process starve, rape
thing before the close of the year. However, I would prefer to say
and mutilate their citizens. Don’t trade with them and take away
Happy New YEARS. This is the longer part of the same wish but
all their ill-gotten gains that their families and cohorts enjoy in our
in reality it should be Happy New ETERNITY. This means that
own countries. Stop Grace Mugabe going shopping while her hus-
we are all part of the same family and every religion acknowledg-
band builds a seventy bedroom ninth home on Lake Geneva. Shut
es that they share somehow in this eternity.
them off by stopping the media cover they crave. Tell Anna Pouring to stop pouring out her self-important diatribe of publicity for these
Happy New Eternity to all our readers. Why don’t make that
people. The same goes for all the SKYE team ducking explosions in
new start with a few of those resolutions? Those diamonds left
their helmets and flak jackets. Stop publicising their excesses. With-
mean the same as if we are gardening and planting a new tree.
out that publicity, they are backwater nothingness. There is no point
We don’t plant a tree and say ‘It’s no good planting this tree if
to chopping people up because there is no gain to be had.
"##$%!&' |! 7 1
These multi-mass-murderers won’t slaughter their own people
a proper voice in decisions about freedom and conflict. If Scots
without a safe place to store their wealth. It’s difficult to buy
deserve a vote, so do the Russians in Ukraine. If the EU wants
so much as even a decent towel in Central Africa, so how will
their oil and gas to stick one up Vladimir Putrid, let them buy it
they spend their money whilst imprisoned in their own countries
on commercial terms. Do not pre-organise the profit for the power
surrounded by the carnage they wrought? Stop every interface
brokers with back-handers for Petrol Potty just to add to his $400
and that means construction as well as any banking. Their own
million stashed away in Monaco. The power brokers are the ar-
people will suffer for a little while longer but they were going to
chitects of corruption, who for political rubber-stamping of this
suffer anyway. This will at least bring reason to their life of de-
nonsense, deposit $ billions in back-handers in Switzerland and
spair. Their demise will be the end of that tyranny. Bob Gelding
Monaco and Luxembourg. Before criticising Boko Haram, im-
provides a bandage but not a solution.
agine that the combined wealth of the former regimes in Nigeria is $400 billion in diamonds, commodities, gold and real estate. Their
There are no half measures on this issue. It’s just a matter of our lead-
name means ‘Western education is forbidden’. We wonder why?
ers having the balls to make that resolution and stop the flim-flamming bullshit of bombing one truck at a time. Just stop them talking
The way we stand up for our values is a reflection of how we
to anyone or travelling anywhere. This is not an expensive response
honour our dead. The decisions that shape a nation should be de-
as it can be paid for with their own money. And when the lavatory
cided at grass roots level. That is the true value of an open society
paper in the palace runs out, still don’t talk to them.
where freedom of speech is accompanied by respect for all. Let us acknowledge the courage of all those who died in wars over 100
What is democracy if it hosts a virus of evil associations that sends
years by demanding the same level of courage and determination
a signal to mankind that we have lost track of our values? If de-
from our leaders in peace. Instead of watching the herding of
mocracy has any validity, it is in the right of the people to have
millions of oppressed people into vast cages far away from their
7 2 | "##$%!&'
CHRISTMAS QUIZ
)VL VW_ TM\ UM XI[[ WV I +PZQ[\UI[ 9]Qb _PQKP Q[ I KWTTIJWZI\Q^M XQMKM _PQKP UIa JM NIUQTQIZ \W [WUM WN aW]" QUESTION 1 If you knew a woman who was pregnant, who had 8 kids already, three of whom were deaf, two who were blind, one mentally retarded, and she had syphilis, would you recommend that she has an abortion? Read the next question before looking at the response for this one. QUESTION 2 It is time to elect a new world leader, and only your vote counts. Here are the facts about the three candidates: Which of these candidates would be our choice? CANDIDATE A Associates with crooked politicians, and consults with astrologists. He also chain smokes and drinks 8 to 10 Martinis a day.
CANDIDATE B He was kicked out of office twice, sleeps until noon, used opium in college and drinks a quart of whisky every evening.
CANDIDATE C He is a decorated war hero. He's a vegetarian, doesn't smoke, drinks an occasional beer and never committed adultery. And, by the way,
Decide before peeking below.
on your answer to the abortion question: You just
Now look down: Candidate A is Franklin D. Roosevelt, candidate B is Winston Churchill and candidate C is Adolf Hitler.
killed Beethoven.
homes, let the United Nations resolve to isolate those maniacs in
concern ourselves too much with matters of the soul and survival
their palaces. Take away the assets of those who perpetrate atroc-
or matters of the spirit and immortality. However, in the first
ities and keep the media right out of the way. Let those who lead
instance, we have the gifts of reason, sensation and animation
our civilisation in every aspect of politics and commerce start
to determine what we do with our mortality. Our leaders who
thinking in a new way. In a way that refuses to send our youth to
are commanding the puppet show animate us as the puppets but
die for some cause that cannot be won with firepower. Let them
they, the leaders, do not function within us. They do not lead us
consider the long-term well-being of a greater community. We
where we want to go but rather where we are obliged to follow.
demand a little more depth of thought than they all presently exercise. If you harbour those who finance terror, the same penalty
Nature has provided a solution for the survival of ants and bees
of isolation must occur even if you are Sheikh Notsturd bin Jab-
and even wildebeest who have no individual intelligence but
bering al-Nite (Who is presently keeping safe in Doha the likes
communication skills that cause them to swarm and act together
of Terri bul-Breth and Robin Khums Bob bin-Along). Both of
for their common good. Now we have the worldwide web and
them live freely in Doha although they are at the top of a United
the Internet sophistication that allows us the potential of acting
Nations terrorist sanctions list.
together, causing herd like pressure. Roll on the times when we can all act in unison by communicating the end of the horrors
It is the personality of a man that animates the body of his flesh
of war. In the meantime let us recognise that all leaders need to
which comes from the chemicals provided by parental proto-
know that we are mindful of their corruption and manipulation.
plasm. Through life it evolves as limbs for locomotion, a trunk to
So on January 1st, let us all resolve to press for immediacy by
accommodate the functions necessary for our upkeep and a brain
activating their conscience that is hidden in their soul and their
to transmit the dictation of the mind. In this life we are mostly
spirit. Let the maniacs and the power brokers who fuel them,
concerned with matters of the flesh and mortality. We do not
know that they are earmarked for isolation from civilisation.
"##$%!&' |! 7 3
AIRPLANES
T R A NS A E RO From commercial to imperial !"#$%&'()&%#*+,'-./%# With major names such as Virgin, Singapore Airlines, and British
The first six months of this year saw the company’s net profit up
Airways dominating the skies, it’s a rare occurrence for a Russian
by 61%. Given this continual success, new routes and services
airline to make an impact worthy of worldwide recognition. But
are quickly developing, ensuring a worldwide presence as big as
Russian based Transaero Airlines has been climbing up the rank-
the airline’s major competitors. A programme of direct flights
ings, one award at a time.
from Russia’s regions to international leisure destinations is currently under development and the winter 2014/2015 season will
2012 saw Transaero named as The Best Airline in Eastern Europe
see Transaero offer 49 routes from 17 Russian cities.
at the Skytrax World Airline Awards – one of the most prestigious titles in global commercial aviation. This success was then
On October 26 2014, Transaero launched a twice-weekly ser-
followed up a year later, winning Most Improved Airline and
vice between St Petersburg and London, and is the only Rus-
becoming the first Russian based charter to not only receive
sian airline to serve this route. The continuous development of
an award in this category, but also becoming the only Russian
direct flights is creating more travel options for world business
name to be in the top thirty safest airlines in the world. I think
leaders and entrepreneurs; thus, a demand for premier, first
it’s safe to say that Transaero is quickly making its mark.
class services has sparked.
7 4 | 0,,1'#$2
Catering to this demand, Transaero became the only Russian
The food onboard will not disappoint. This month, Transaero launched
airline to offer a first class service. In 2008, the two existing elite
a new Imperial Class menu, inspired by the history of the world’s great
classes (Premium and Business) saw yet another extension, with
empires – Chinese, Japanese, Ottoman, British, and German. Qual-
the launch of the Imperial Class – targeted at those who appreci-
ity and variety have been meticulous planned. Dishes range from
ate luxury and exclusiveness.
smoked eel with seaweed (the health secret of longevity for Japanese Emperors), to Eisben (the crown jewel of German cuisine). Each dish
The Imperial Class combines both today’s modern service tech-
is ensured to satisfy both the pickiest and adventurous of passengers.
nologies with the best traditions of hospitality, inspired by the Russian Imperial Court (Hence the Imperial name). Expect
There is no denying that Transaero’s rise to the top (no pun intended)
divine chinaware, delicately plated with gold emblems and
has shone a spotlight on Russia’s commercial developments. Catering to
embossed, leather food menus that exude the ultimate attention
a global demand, with an emphasis on luxury, competes with the finest
to detail. On flight amenities include plush, red, leather seats
of international airlines. Providing travel to a worldwide, elite, market
that convert into a full, flat bed and meals from ultra-luxe Café
makes possibilities endless. So my advice is to watch this space (and
Pushkin, served on flights from Moscow.
the skies) because Transaero is quickly advancing, one flight at a time.
0,,1'#$2 |! 7 5
ESSAY
Andrei Navrozov
Awful Beauty !"#$%&'()*+(,-*$*.,/'01
7 6 | 2))3'*45
God how they lied to us, how they all lied to us, how they lied
di me. Nor can you possibly have been where I am now, apparent-
and lied all those years on end. German professors, pince-nez
ly in a small flat with a large cast-iron skylight handed down to
and aquiline glance subjacent, preening in front of the rather
the previous owner by the England of confident rationalism and
more common kind of gilt-framed mirror, squeezing the luxu-
great expectations, but in reality deep within the sacred heart of a
riant Fraulein’s dimpled buttock, dictating a tract on feeling to
possible ancestor of yours, one who fought in the Third Crusade,
this or that quietly greying mouse. Russian idealists, beard goat-
one who, in the confusion of battle, was left bleeding, vermilion
ee-neat or else broom-bushy, waving their arms in the air against
rose after vermilion rose, into the thirsty roadside dust of Arsuf
a landscape of anachronism veiled in gun smoke, ransoming
after the defeat of Saladin at the hands of the uncircumcised. You
conscripts in time for the final harvest, stuffing winter overcoats
haven’t been there. You’ve never been burnt by the desert sun.
with explosives, kissing each other on the lips with a loud smack. This is a fact, do you understand me? A noble fact. You can French bon viveurs, they also had a few words to say on the
twist it this way and that, you can spit on it, you can heat it
matter, for eloquence is but elegance pursued by other means,
to 1000 degrees Centigrade, or dry-freeze it and have a go at it
desperately smitten, simply awash with sentiment, yet with an
with a hammer, you can try to dissolve it in aqua regia, but a
eye to the love-struck suitor’s annuity all the same, or else where
noble fact is an imperiously stainless substance, possessed of
would the camellias of the title keep coming from, you little sil-
the hardness of diamond and the elasticity of rubber, and it will
likins, camellias don’t grow on trees, you know. Italian conti,
never change. Besides, is it really all that shocking, this inert,
which rhymes with racconti and just about everything else in
immutable, adamantine fact I’ve adduced here? Suppose I said
the dictionary, scrimmaging behind sensuously undulating bro-
that not one of you people out there has ever had an original
cades, dripping potions into Venetian goblets, eviscerating rivals
thought. Would anybody fight back? Would anyone argue?
in duels, always coming back to Mary Mother of God and the
No, you would probably answer something like, “You’re quite
Heavenly Host, but have these Casanovas not misled us too, if
right. But let me tell you, I don’t mind. I’m fine just the way I
only by never saying anything worth remembering? English gen-
am. Now look at the time.”
tlemen with rusty iron whiskers, dreadnought sideburns, mutton dressed as lamb don’t you think, delighted you could join
Or suppose I said, now listen you fellows, I bet you £1000 you’ve
us this evening – but that’s the funniest lot of all, really, though
never been in the same room with a woman of awful beauty.
they lied much less than the others, for the houndstooth-check,
What would you say? You would object, but mildly, groping
wet-rot, broom-cupboard, oilcloth-plain reason that they had
for words, hemming and hawing, loosening the neckties, very
been thrashed as children and had come to fear the introspective
much doubting that the bet could ever be won, what with the
forever after. Hence the willow’s suppleness in our sentimental
vagueness and the little bit of an oxymoron in there, you can’t be
guff, hence the presumptive mother’s milk of all that codswallop,
serious, such an infantile thing to say, and what can it possibly
hence the gun-room’s grammar book: bunkum!
mean awful beauty for God’s sake, and how can anybody ever agree on a definition? Sure, one man in a thousand would go for
But now a winter rain beats against the windowpanes, and a win-
it, perhaps, naming some selectively carnivorous flytrap or prom-
ter wind weeps and roars over the skylight of the roof, very Crys-
inently macrobiotic vedette, deciding to stick to his guns, to ride
tal Palace that skylight, always makes me think of Dostoevsky’s
out the argument to the end, but what then? Being £1000 to the
Notes from the Underground, though what has he, even he, had to
good is no substitute for inner conviction. And all I can hear you
say on the subject that is life-saving, what cure has he bequeathed
saying with any kind of aplomb is that roses are red.
to me personally, what recipe for salvation from anguish, what salve for the all-but-bleeding heart? Don’t laugh, Signori Conti,
I don’t want to be harsh on people, but the emotional life of our
don’t laugh, gentlemen with whiskers. Vi giuro, non sapete niente
epoch reminds me of central Moscow in the old Soviet days, a
7 8 | 2))3'*45
time when there was everything. There were billboards advertis-
doctors, and crooked lawyers... Hence the photographs of unap-
ing cigarettes and the national lottery, there were competent doc-
proachably blond actresses, of dietetically irreproachable models,
tors and crooked lawyers, there were chauffeur-driven limousines
of society women said to be beautiful on the covers of popular
and children’s mud-spattered bicycles, there were girl Fridays and
magazines, though what does it matter, from the vantage point
thoughtful academics who knew their Hegel, there were men’s
of totalitarian rationalism which is the guiding spirit of the ep-
double-breasted suits with impressively large lapels and dinner
och, whether these women are very beautiful, or just beautiful
jackets with shiny satin ones, there were smooth-talking men
enough, or plug-ugly? Like the chocolate bears made of Com-
and hard-to-charm, capricious women, there were eccentric art-
munist soybeans, they are there to represent human caprice, and
ists and their intriguingly cavernous studios, there were shops
by implication the epoch’s covenant with mankind for tolerating
selling seasonal game and live fish, farmers’ markets, dry cleaners
it. Otherwise there could be panic. Otherwise people might bolt.
and delicatessens... There was even a kind of praline torte with three chocolate bears on top, one big and two small ones, called
Well, I did bolt.
“The Three Bears.” And guess what? It was all a sham. There is something I want to say here, but obviously it eludes I don’t mean, of course, that it was a sham for those participat-
me. Is that because I am still distraught and cannot see straight
ing in it, for all the stage extras in the centrally-planned, centu-
for the tears? Yes, but also because there is a pall of impotence
ry-long political production. It was their life-saving duty, after all,
that invariably comes to lie on each and every one of my reso-
to convince themselves and each other that their experiences were
lutions, no matter how urgent or desperate they are for me as a
perfectly real, and hence perfectly deserving of the real emotions
writer. Wishing though I do that the prospect of action could be
that went with them. Yet knowing what one does, now and then
somehow less daunting, I am not ashamed of this weakness of
one cannot suppress a rueful chuckle: “Ah, Grandpa! I can’t believe
mine. No, I recognize that it is in the very nature of art, which,
how you drooled over those military decorations! And you, Dad!
since the beginning of time, set itself impossible tasks and then
How you fussed over those three bears on my birthday! Come on,
wrung its hands bemoaning its glorious failures. I say glorious,
admit it. You’ve been had, all of you, haven’t you?”
of course, because our kind of impotence is capable of moving mountains – provided they are made out of molehills – at the
Man lives by caprices, thought Dostoevsky. Yet the entire thrust
speed of thought, and of sowing epochal confusion among en-
of the epoch, which has now reached its culminating point, is
tire populations more effectively than the guillotine. But it is
against these insubstantial urges of the soul. None the less, out-
impotence none the less, because the object of our striving, after
wardly the epoch still bows to them, it still feels the need to dis-
all’s said and done and the resin dust from ballet slippers has
semble, it still cannot proclaim its materialism to be universally
settled on the boards, is not to create but to describe. And this
valid, obligatory, and inescapable. As the Muscovites had that
we cannot do.
trio of bears, cast in the finest dark soy mass by the omnipotent hand of the state, so too does the epoch feel obliged to offer its
Ah, it is a pang of recognition painful enough to make the artist
inmates a modicum of respiratory, gustatory illusion.
weep from frustration. Why, of course you can be a god! It is easy enough to create a world of one’s own, as children make
Hence we have bookshops, and books that resemble bricks of
people and animals from potatoes and matchsticks, as Van Gogh
pressed straw. Hence we have music, which makes the young
fashioned his universes and Tolstoy his resurrections. But in the
dance their Saturday nights away in communal ecstasy. (No,
final analysis, that’s just stuff, you see. Stuff for sale. On the
we have serious music too, of course, we have Covent Garden
other hand, try being an adult, try being a man under the om-
and divas with voluptuous bosoms and everything!) Hence we
nipotent God you believe in, try to stand there, on your puny,
have struggling painters in quaintly unadorned studios, and fine
buckling legs, while holding up that massive Rococo mirror – a
2))3'*45 |! 7 9
hundredweight of opulent carving and ponderous gilt – in which
should I want, in an inferior medium and in a language other
the unconfessable reflects the incontestable. It is thus that the
than that of my childhood, to go over the same fearful ground?
artist comes to know the sublime weakness of which I speak.
No, this book is not fiction. It isn’t even a novel, really, except perhaps by association with those essays in lachrymose malev-
I want to describe a moment. A single moment and a woman’s
olence that Dostoevsky dictated off the fraying cuff in order to
face. That is all, I swear it. But no sooner do I put pen to pa-
gouge the next bit of gambling money from his ever mistrustful
per than the weakness comes over me like a viscous dream, and
publishers. Yet in those ravings of his I have seen the natural
I begin drowning, suffocating in its varicoloured possibilities,
illuminations, the reflections of God’s truth, strong and vivid
sweating at the prospect of getting lost in its endless, labyrin-
enough to displace art in the ornate mirror.
thine corridors. The eyelid of my mind’s eye grows heavier, as though from a draught of some soporific infusion, and a gen-
Now, I want you to notice something. The symptoms of im-
eral feeling of wooziness, as though one is wading through
potence – helplessness, numbness, prostration, torpor, voice-
cotton wool, makes it difficult to choose words, to distinguish
lessness, ataxia – evident in the psychosomatic behaviour of
colours, to tell left from right and right from wrong, to in-
the artist who has chosen to forsake his art in the cause of
quire, to explain, to remember. I feel like a traveller freezing
truth are identical to those of what is called love at first sight.
to death – like a man dying of exposure – complete with the
Remember Marlowe’s
chill, the stupor and the letting go. I see clearly the object I’m dying to describe, like a fleshless hologram suspended against
Where both deliberate, the love is slight;
a background of velvet blackness, but my parched lips can-
Who ever loved, that loved not at first sight?
not move except to mutter, like Dostoevsky’s Prince Myshkin upon seeing the portrait of Nastasya Filippovna: “Perfection!”
Because once the artist has found the courage to look it straight in the face, the splendour of naked reality – God’s reality, not the
I know I have to write a book, this book, and when it is finished
sequined blouse of one’s own preposterous design draped over
I will probably have to tear up the anaemic and barren manu-
the wax shoulders of one’s most recent invention – is immolating
script, or burn it, howling with utterly undeserved humiliation.
and immobilising. And so he stares and stammers.
I don’t want any stuff, you see, any stuff for sale. I just want the truth. I want the awful, inner, ultimate truth about that moment
Cat got his tongue.
and about that face. I want to find the strength to lift up that heavy mirror, if only for a few seconds, and tilt it towards the
Olga, do you recognize me? Let me try saying it now without
past in such a way that all the phantasms of my own creation
using my tongue.
should vanish and God’s own truth should be glimpsed where now there are only shadows and guile and invention, in other words, where now there is only art. Art has already been done. In my native tongue I have written a cycle of poems with the same title as this book of prose, and I know that my name, and my reputation as an artist, is now
“How much energy you expend to appear soulless,” I chided her
inseparable from those quixotic spasms. Hence it pains me to
one day. “No more,” she replied with a glance at the disordered
think that the narrative in the pages that follow may be regarded
dressing table, taking her time between lines of coke, confident
as a work of fiction, a word which, honestly, is simply too labile
and elegant like eyebrows pencilled in by an ageing movie star,
to have ever gained a foothold in literary Russian. Why on earth
“than do you to discover whether or not you have a soul.”
8 0 | 2))3'*45
When I think of what separated us, oddly enough this is the
pression to itself. What, then, of a love that is not proven?
first logical obstacle I see in my mind. God, who advanced
The miracles worked by Christ are witnessed and attested to in
the doctrine of the categorical imperative many centuries be-
the Gospels with the exhaustive precision of a juridical proof,
fore Immanuel Kant, did not suppose that sadism and mas-
yet at the centre of it all, where the cornerstone of the Christian
ochism – as these two of the myriad human caprices came to
world view ought to be, there is nothing. Like Cordelia, God
be known, initially in clinical literature and later in common
will not heave his heart into his mouth. But why should a believ-
parlance – were mainstream enough to warrant a footnote in
er have more trouble believing that the loaves fed the thousands,
the Scripture. Yet the commandment to do unto others as you
or that the lame took up their pallets and walked, than that the
would have them do unto you is absurd without the underly-
God who made such things possible was a loving father?
ing assumption that a unified ethical system, which predates the commandment, has long been in place. Thus the idea that
Well, nobody would ever doubt a mother’s love. The fashion for
God so loved the world that he sacrificed his only son for its
love must have begun with veneration of the woman whom I
sake falls flat if one supposes that God loved his son no more
addressed in my prayers, or else why would our most miraculous
than did Russia’s Ivan IV, called Grozny, “The Terrible Man,”
icons, for nearly a millennium the holy images of the Ortho-
or Iosif Dzhugashvili, called Stalin, “The Man of Steel,” both
dox confession, be images of her? As I said, I had bolted. Then
of whom sent their sole-begotten sons to certain death, not for
a year passed, then a month, then another, and this is what I
the world’s sake, but simply because they did not love them
found myself saying one day, as the rain came down and the
very much. The belief that Christ’s own parent, Who Art in
wind beat on the windowpanes, while kneeling before the small
Heaven, was different, is what makes a Christian a Christian.
icon on which, in faint Cyrillic ochre, was the appellation,
Both were Christians, of course, Ivan the reigning tsar and Sta-
HOLY: MOTHER OF GOD: JOY OF ALL THAT SORROW.
lin the runaway priest. But, albeit for dissimilar reasons, the fashion for love – in other words, for sentiment defined by a system of values that could just as easily apply to the relationship between man and woman as to the bond of father and son – touched neither. One was a local brute who reigned on the outskirts of Europe, far removed from the world of European fashion. The other was a totalitarian ruler who jettisoned European fashion, together with all its sentiments and pieties, in order to conquer Europe. Unlike Abraham, whose sole-begotten Isaac was a late and greatly beloved child, neither thought love was all that important in the general scheme of things.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
"#$%&'!()*%+,+*
If the father did not truly love the son, then the story told
Born in Moscow, educated in the United States, and now living
in the Gospels is either religious propaganda or worse,
in Italy, for the past eight years has been working on a trilogy of
a global political provocation. Without that truth, there
novels. The first part, Awful Beauty: Confessions of a Coward,
is no Christianity. Yet what is subject to proof in fairy-
he likens to Dante’s Inferno. Earthly Love: A Day in the Life of a
tales about princes and frogs is left unproven here, as if
Hypocrite is, consequently, his Purgatorio, while Incredible Trust:
the mere assertion that God so loved the world were suffi-
When the Liar Falls Silent is the Paradiso of the trilogy. An exclu-
cient. Well, Shakespeare based the whole tragedy of King
sive for the readers of Ccercle, the excerpt here is from the opening
Lear on the inability of a love that is proven to give ex-
pages of Awful Beauty.
2))3'*45 |! 8 1
AROUND THE WORLD
f r o m Un i t e d S t a t e s
Ja m e s Hof f, SK Y W I PE R !"#$%&'&()*#+'),$-().''/),)01&-2)3$'4'$,5*6),)717%*,$)1.'!()&,6&),$-#&-) 2IUM[ 0W_ ٺPW[M M`PQJQ\QWV I\ +ITTQKWWV .QVM )Z\[ _QTT JM WV ^QM_ NZWU 6W^MUJMZ VL \W ,MKMUJMZ [\ <PM IZ\_WZS[ QV \PM M`PQJQ\QWV IZM \PM ZM[]T\ WN IV QVNMK\QWV Ja I KWUX]\MZ ^QZ][ \PI\ ÅVL[ Q\[ PW[\ QV \PM [XIKM WN XIQV\QVO <PM _WZU WZ ^QZ][ QVNMK\QVO I LQOQ\IT ÅTM KZMI\M[ I []ZXZQ[QVOTa JMI]\QN]T KWVKWK\QWV WN JZQOP\Ta [XTI[PML JT]ZZML IVL [\ZMISML KWTWZ[ ZMUQVLQVO \PM I]LQMVKM \PI\ JMI]\a KIV JM NW]VL QV \PM UW[\ ]VM`XMK\ML IZMI[ Ja 5IZOPIZQ\I ?IQTM[ .IQZJIQZV
CALLICOON FINE ARTS GALLERY 12 4 F O R S Y T H S T, L O W E R E A S T S I D E , N Y C
8 2 | 8&&%')9:
DR APED COTTON-POPLIN TOP
.I[PQWV
A modern twist on a classic white shirt, this draped cotton-poplin top by New York based designer Prabal Gurung will instantly refresh your favourite essentials. Fully lined in smooth silk adds to the luxury. Gurung was chosen by the fashion industry’s leading editors, retailers, designers and business experts for one of the highly coveted design studios at the CFDA Fashion Incubator for 2010-2012.
NEW YOR K A RT LOFT !"#$%&'%( An abundance of art worth $20 million filled into one luxurious, New York loft apartment. The building itself dates back to 1909, with ceiling-high Corinthian columns and a 17th century stone fireplace. The art consists of works by master artisans such as Ramon Canet, George Nakashimi and Emilio Sanchez – –making this the perfect example of where the modern art world meets tradition and history.
Evan Joseph is the premiere luxur y architectural and lifest yle photographer in New York Cit y and beyond. He works closely with the world's most elite brands in real estate and interior design to create images of exquisite spaces and places which evoke drama and pique desire
!(()$*+, |! 8 3
f rom Russia
B e l m on d G r a n d HO T E L EU ROPE
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8 4 | !""#$%&'
DR A PED COT TON-POPLIN TOP .I[PQWV Ulyano Seegeenko has an unusual background. Her first experience of the Paris fashion show was as a photographer. She turned up in her own creations and the rest is history. She now counts the likes of Lady Gaga, Dita Von Teese and Beyonce among her customers.. Every single one of Sergeenko’s collections comes with its own romantic story — train travel, fairy tales, American literature — and exquisite craftsmanship. Her eponymous label employs hundreds of Russian artisans who hand-stitch her bespoke creations. When you consider her first introduction to “fashion” was the Soviet Union’s Feminine Worker and Countryside Woman, her ascendancy is all the more remarkable.
I VA N G O R S C H KOV
;K]TX\]ZM
This month, Moscow has it’s Annual Art Fair rounding of this year’s diary of key events for art buyers and sellers alike. However, those touching down at Domodedovo missed one of the most interesting art installations Russians have ever seen. With his flair for causing controversy, Ivan Gorshkov has just mocked those who like to store their art for centuries. The artist, who like Tracey Emin, has built his reputation by deploying one shock tactic after another, has just held a one day edible art exhibition, entitled King Pate. As a result, the phrase “ gorge on art” acquires a new cult status. The idea behind the exhibition was that every art piece was to be devoured during the show. Here are some of the weird and wonderful sculptures he created. The sell-out show was held at the famous restaurant. To achieve the looks he wanted the artist collaborated with one of the capital’s top chefs. Vladimir Schetinin, the head chef of “O’Hara” restaurant. Here are some of the concoctions and sculpture… My favourite is the vodka fountain.
!""#$%&' |! 8 5
f rom Eu rope
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SENSUA L W INTER
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The french perfume house Dyptique has come out with this seasons Holiday collection - much to the satisfaction of our olfactory senses. The elaborate design is a result of the collaboration with french artist collective “Qubo Gas”. As usual three full sized candles and a mini-set will be available. The scents include Résine, Hiver and Épice. A hommage to the unforgettable winters from our childhood memories.
NENI ,ZQVSQVO If you want to experience Zurich beyond banking, chocolate and watches the NENI restaurant at 25hours Hotel Zurich West can offer a stylish and lively alternative. With their so called tongue-in-cheek humour they attract people longing for a new experience when visiting switzerland's biggest city. The israel inspired dishes are lovingly put together by star cook Haya Molcho whose passion for cooking comes primarily from preparing meals for her four sons. This also reflects in the restaurants name as their initials (Nuriel, Elior, Nadiv and Ilan) serve as the four letters. 2 5 H O U R S H O T E L Z Ü R I C H W E S T, P F I N G S T W E I D S T R A S S E 10 2 - Z Ü R I C H
!""#$%&' |! 8 7
f rom China
JETSETTING
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AI W EI W EI -`PQJQ\QWV Chinese contemporary artist AI WEI WEI will give his first major show in the UK after being unable to leave China since 2011. It is confirmed that he will fill the main Burlington House galleries of London’s Royal Academy next autumn. The size of the exhibition won’t be unlike the current Anselm Kiefer and past David Hockney or Anish Kapoor show. Tim
ISOL A ,QVQVO
Marlow tells the Guardian: “He has claim to be amongst the most famous, if not the most famous artist in the world, but
Located in the IFC tower, Isola will stun you with its chic inte-
his art is not as widely seen as one might think”.
riors and expanded view of Hong Kong’s Harbour. The concept is described as “a stylish Italian restaurant” and also offers
It is sure the exhibition will be an absolute must see for art
outdoor dining on a large terrace. Although Isola is certainly a
fanatics all around the world and will keep us curiously wait-
luxury restaurant it manages to keep a rustic feel, by preparing
ing on our toes until coming autumn.
their food on the grill in an open kitchen. ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS IFC MALL, 1 HARBOUR VIEW ST
BURLINGTON HOUSE
HONG KONG
PICCADILLY - LONDON
!""#$%&' |! 8 9
f rom Ind ia
THE LAKE Pa l a c e Ud a ip u r
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SIKKIM TEMI TEA
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Sikkim Temi is acclaimed as one of the best tea producers in India, and the Temi Tea Garden is the only estate in the tiny Himalayan Kingdom of Sikkim â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Making this a truly treasured find. The tea garden produces rare, high-grown teas, loved around the world for itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s refined golden colour and sweet taste. The First Flush Black tea is a sophisticated, fragrant aroma of summer peaches, with subtle taste hints of citrus. Refreshingly smooth.
21 SE T T I NG S U NS BY S U B ODH K E R K A R )Z\ Installation art is becoming increasingly popular on the Indian art scene the last few years, bursting with dynamism, color and chaos that are so distinctive. Gone are the days when art spoke softly in moderated tones, and India is fast becoming globally recognized as the master of bold art.
!""#$%&' |! 9 1
IN CONVERSATION WITH
LUC Y Doughty !"#$%%&##'$()"&*+,-+./((0"1/(/.%&2"*/33-/4&"/.2",5&."#$22&.(0"1&%/*&"6-2+6&2)"*0"6+3(2" /.2"/((",5/,"7"8.&6"%3$*1(&2"-."/"5&/3,1&/,9"!',&3",5-#",3/4&20)"7"5/2"/"#&.#&"+'"&*:,-.&##" -.#-2&"+'"*&;"!,"*0"2/38&#,"5+$3)"7"5&/32",5-#"<+-%&"%+.#,/.,(0"-."*0"5&/2)"3&/##$3-.4"*&",5/," 7"6/#".+,"/(+.&"/.2",5/,"7"2-2"*/,,&3;"7,"8&:,"#/0-.4)"=0+$"/3&",5&":+##-1-(-,0"+'"65/,"%/."1&)" &*13/%&",5&"5/::-.&##"0+$"#5/3&2)"/#"*/.0"6-((".&<&3"3&/%5"-."/"(-'&,-*&"65/,"0+$"5/<&;" :MN][M \W JM I ^QK\QU WN aW]Z [\WZa ¼ )\ \PM IOM WN 1 ZMITQbML 1 PIL \W Ã&#x2026;VL XMIKM [PQN\ *0":3-+3-,-&#"/.2".+,"1&"/:+(+4&,-%;"7><&"#&,"*0":3-+3-,-&#"?"*0"%5-(23&.)"*0"'/*-(0)"*0" 3&#:+.#-1-(-,-&#"/.2"*0"'+3&<&3"#:-3-,$/("2-<-.&"4$-2/.%&;"!#"7"3&:&/,&2(0"/#8",5&"@$&#,-+.)"" =7"8.+6",5-.4#"2+.>,"5/::&.",+"*&)",5&0"5/::&."'+3"*&;"A5&0"&.(-45,&."*&;"" B+)"65/,"-#",5&":$3:+#&CD"7,"*/0"#&&*"(-8&"/."+22"@$&#,-+.)"1$,"/#"7"4+",53+$45"(-'&)"7".&<&3" 6/.,",+"(++#&"#-45,"+'",5&",3$,5"+'"*0"&E-#,&.%&"?"#+"7"2/3&2",+"#-*:(0"1&"*0#&('9 9 2 | 7##$&"FG
YOU
SAY
THE
WORD
‘D A R E ’.
WHAT
M A K E S A D A R I N G W O M A N ? A daring woman has vision, commitment, strength, compassion, and a total lack of fear. Because at one point, she has been blind, weak and afraid. She's aware of her flaws and knows that she's no greater than the thoughts she thinks. TELL US ABOUT THE DOUGHT Y FAMI L Y F O U N D A T I O N … Six years ago, my belated husband (Nigel Doughty RIP) and I founded The Doughty Family Foundation, with the aim of supporting community projects, through health and education. We help the most vulnerable of children to have a better start in life. We empower women to realize their greatest potential. We support small and large projects that contribute to a better world. To name a few: In the UK: Mercia Doughty pre-operative and Endoscopy wing in Nottinghamshire UK and Doughty Centre for Childline.org (the NSPCC's child's voice appeal calling centre). In the Domin-
!""#$%&' |! 9 3
ican Republic: Mercia Doughty Paediatric Oncology Wing and Nigel Doughty Paediatric Oncology Intensive Care Unit. As a trustee of Theirworld and an advocate for A World at School, I'm incredibly proud of the journey that all of our projects takes us. A World at School is rapidly expanding, with a new digital platform for youth activism and online campaigning for universal education. It offers co-ordination to a movement of global youth and concerned citizens who want to see the 57 million out-ofschool children in education and learning. The Global Business Coalition for Education, leaded by former UK Prime Minister RHT Gordon Brown, and UN Special Envoy for Global Education bring together some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest businesses and brands, to help ensure all children are in school and learning. We believe that education is a birthright of every child and the key to expanding opportunity and future employment. HOW DO YOU EMPOWER YOUNG WOME N ? Throughout history, women have done things differently. When we need to get something done, we do it together. With each generation, our story has spread wider, our voices braver and more powerful. But the journey is far from over! A child born to a literate mother is 50% more likely to survive past age 5. Educated mothers are twice as likely to send their child to school and girls with eight years of education are less likely to be married as children. Thanks to technology, women across the world have the ability to connect in ways unimaginable. Theirworld, Girl Rising, Up for School and The Doughty Foundation via Umbrella Fund connect a growing movement of many who want to see change. Millions of voices call for girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s empowerment. I believe that the root of our world issues, social injustice, domestic violence, child abuse and, subsequently, child labor, all start with the lack of education. Education should not be a privilege. It is a Birthright. And together, through the acts of daring women around the world, we can make this possible.
9 4 | !""#$%&'
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Trippi â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Champion Sire in Florida and Champion First Crop Sire in South Africa. The leading South African sire by International Earnings
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What A Winter â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Twice Champion Sprinter of South Africa running in his paddock
DR AKENSTEIN STA LLIONS Drakenstein Stud is home to five internationally recognised stallions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Duke of Marmalade, Trippi, What a Winter, Horse Chestnut and Philanthropist. Trippi was the first stallion to stand at Drakenstein and currently commands the highest fee. Duke of Marmalade was European Champion Older Horse and the winner of 5 Group 1 races in England, Ireland and France. Horse Chestnut is considered one of the greatest racehorses ever to race locally and he, along with What a Winter, were crowned Champions in South Africa. Finally, Philanthropist who raced in the USA, was successful in Canada, before Drakenstein Stud purchased a controlling interest in him.
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VILLA MANGIACANE !"#$%&#%&'($#)*#$%&#+,"&-'.,"/# (&/,)"#)*#0%,'"$,#01'22,3)4#5,11'# 5IVOQIKIVM Q[ I UIOVQĂ&#x2026;KMV\ 67$%#3&"$8(9#:,11'#;8,1$#;9#$%&# <'3%,':&11,#*'-,194#;&'(,"/#$%&# 8"-,2$'.';1&#%'"=#)*#$%&# >&"',22'"3&#-'2$&(4#<,3%&1'"/&1)?
Located just 12km south of Florence, Mangiacane is set within 600 acres of f lourishing vineyards and olive groves. The private estate produces award winning wines and a distinctive olive oil, which you can taste and enjoy during your stay. The classic beauty of Mangiacane combined with its history, art, and idyllic countryside setting creates the perfect backdrop for a Tuscan wedding, unforgettable holiday or exclusive rental. Luxurious facilities complement the private villa, two swimming pools, unique sculpture gardens and breathtaking Tuscan views of the Duomo in Florence. A stay at Mangiacane allows for easy exploration to Florence, San Gimignano, or the magnificent city of Siena. Come and experience our warm hospitality where you will experience the joy of modern day convenience, seamlessly combined with the splendour of the Renaissance.
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In Venice we made a night visit to St.Mark’s to view the rich art collection of Count Vittorio Cini. A week later, we squelched the night away at the Venice Carnival, chortling at the elaborate costumes and masks of local Venetians. To our astonishment, the more acrobatic inclined maneouvred their way around on stilts to avoid the toe-wetting and drenching that is part of the Venice experience. Moving South down to Florence, we visited the Uffizi and Accademia before descending in a gaggle on Via de’ Tornabuoni. Here in a mixture of frustration and admiration, we gazed at the sensational window displays of - amongst others - Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Versace, Pomellato, Roberto Cavalli, Tiffany & Co, and Cartier. In Rome we imagined ourselves wearing togas in the Collosseum (I was a student of the Classics) and were shown around the Borghese Gallery, the Vatican, the Sistine Chapel and Raphael’s Stanze. Despite all these visual feasts however, the real draw was the boundless opportunities presented us to visit the iconic hotels and bars in Venice and beyond. And, for us, that meant two places either the magic of Cipriani or the legendary Harry’s Bar. And so to Harry’s Bar. Harry’s Bar has enjoyed a legendary status for generations. In 1948 Giuseppi Cipriani created the drink, inspired by the 15th-century Venetian painter Giovanni Bellini. We were no different... Like many others, we were drawn in by the air of intrigue created by habituees such as Hemingway and Orson Welles. The idea was that their beloved elder daughter should not wander the dark alleys of Europe or Asia unaccompanied, prone to every
We spent all that we could on our Bellinis - simply to be able to
temptation imaginable. Hence the chaperoning and the promise
say: “We came here. We were there” and, of course, so as we
to turn teenagers into art connoisseurs.
could claim that we had tasted the cocktail in its birthplace.
Over the next few months, with various stops on the way, we clat-
Fittingly, given the love people attach to Harry’s Bar, the Bellini and
tered and chattered our way round Venice, Florence and Rome.
its atmosphere is no longer just to be found in Venice. The name
We were culture vultures during the day and then left to our own
went cosmopolitan, choosing other prime locations such as London
devices in the evening. ( Which of course is when I first got to
and Paris. These pictures are from the London Bar which is now a
know about Harry’s Bar.)
private members club. This of course only adds to the allure.
!11>*"DE |! 1 0 5
SOCIAL SEASON
A NGEL BA L L
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The Denise Rich Black Tie Angel Ball benefit was held at the Cipriani Wall Street, all in the name of fighting cancer. An evening to not forget.
Jamie Foxx, Bethenny Frankel, Jeff Gordon and Ingrid Vanderbosch
Lauren Roberts, Elias Sacal, Lucia Hwong Gordon and Hormoz Sabet
Star Jones, Ethan Zohn, Ivana Trump and Denise Rich
Alicia Keys and Swizz Beatz
Sofia Vergara
Alisa Roever, Brent Nicklas and Tina Storper
Tommy Hilfiger and Dee Ocleppo
Peter Cervinka and Denise Rich
Nile Rogers
Ludacris and Jamie Foxx
Loraine Schwartz and Blake Lively
Sofia Vergara and Ofira Sandberg
1 0 6 | ,((-%#./
Loraine Schwartz and kids survived cancer
Star Jones, Kris Jenner and Donna De Cruz
Laura Nicklas, Alisa Roever, Dovile Drizyte and Michelle Rella
Paris and Nicky Hilton
Tina Knowles and Richard Lawson
Selenis Leyva, Denise Rich and friend
Brittany Daniel
Josh lucas
Kris Jenner, Gigi Hadid and Hailey Baldwin
Deborah Hung and Alisa Roever
Michelle Rodriguez
Blake Lively and Ryan Reynolds
!""#$%&' |! 1 0 7
H U BLOT
!"#"$%&'"()&%'*(')+%,)-%&*./&(0)&')1%')-&("#)+*&2* Hublot in partnership with Haute Living hosted an intimate dinner followed by a party at the famed Casa de Suenos Estate in Miami Beach, the home of JR and Loren Ridinger.
Rick DeLaCroix, Kamal Hotchandani, Mr Brainwash, Eva Longoria and Ricardo Guadalupe Usain Bolt
Mr Brainwash and Eva Longoria
Eva Longoria
Miley Cyrus, Eva Longoria and friends
JR and Loren Ridinger
Eugenio Lopez and Erica Pelosini
Mr Brainwash and Ricardo Guadalupe
1 0 8 | 3((4")56
Abrima Erwiah, Edoardo Francia and Rosario Dawson
F OR M U L A E
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The best sporting day to be a part of this year â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the morning consisted of spectating the Formula E, followed by Ccercle cover girl hosting an after party at her home in Pangu, Beijing.
Jean Todt, Veronica Chou-Klyuchareva, guest and Charles Zhang
Rafael Serrano, Jay Penske, Alejandro Agag and Evgeny Klyucharev
Rebecca Fang, Ted Veners, Kara Carscaden and Surinder Singh Thatthi
Veronica Chou-Klyuchareva,Bao Bao Wan, Inno Xie, Roksana Ciurysek, Formula E drivers and guests
Veronica Chou-Klyuchareva and Evgeny Klyucharev
Rafael Serrano, Evgeny Klyucharev, Jean Todt, Ana Aznar Botella, Alejandro Agag and Jay Penske
/00.%#12 |! 1 0 9
M A R R A K ECH
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Ravishing and regal, La Mamounia hotel is set in royal gardens, styles with Moorish opulence. This den of decadence became the perfect venue for the lavish party of the Bohbot family.
Katy Bohbot and Souad Hmicha
Stephane Ruffier Mercay, Sebastian Peiffert and Isabelle Getreide
Bourake and Eda Narin Akbay
Maria Pistelli, Carol Asscher, Eda Akbay and friends
Monique Hollinger, Katy Bohbot and Andrea Dibellius
George Bohbot, Anne Marie Graft and Isabelle Getreide
Mady Abaida and Souad Hmicha
Patricia Malka, Ruth Nevesny, Katy Bohbot, Monique Hollinger and Thomas Hollinger
Paola Alcolei, Claude Ott and Elizabeth Hirschman
Carol Asscher and Olivier Bizon
Sandra Decaux, Orlando and Nicole Weimberg
George Bohbot, Olivier Bizon and Orlando
Makram Azar, Andrea Dibellius and Georges Bohbot
Olivier Bizon, Carol Asscher and friend
1 1 0 | ,--.%#/0
Vittorio Colombo, Eva Potel and Mady Abaida
RO G E R DU BU I S
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The 1930â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s House and Garden on the Thompson Miami Beach proved to be the perfect backdrop to the luxurious event, a stunning setting designed to evoke the spirit of the Roger Dubuis Diva.
Karolina Kurkova and Gerard Butler
Alvaro Maggini and Elena Barmakova
Stephanie Seymour
Jean-Marc Pontroue, Gerard Butler and the Bald Eagle man
Daphne Guinness and Karolina Kurkova
Peter Brant and Russell Simmons
Eva Longoria and the Bald Eagle man
DJ Hannah Bronfman
Jean-Marc Pontroue, CEO of Roger Dubuis and Stephanie Seymour
/((0")12 |! 1 1 1
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