KIRSTEN DUNST
HOLLYWOOD’S most laid-back star
THE NEW MUSE
California at the center of the SARTORIAL STRATOSPHERE
Cover
HIGH GROUND MARCH 2016 $5.99
An eccentric jewelry designer’s house of curiosities in Bel Air
Louis Vuitton
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Jennifer Rubell Devotion, 2015. Photographed at the Rubell Family Collection.
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On Our Cover KIRSTEN DUNST photographed by Alexei Hay wearing a FENDI dress. STYLIST Deborah Afshani at The Wall Group. HAIR Mark Townsend at Starworks Artists. MAKEUP Jillian Dempsey at Starworks Artists. MANICURE Debbie Leavitt at Nailing Hollywood.
150 MARCH 2016
188
150 LETTING LOOSE
TOC 1
Kirsten Dunst, who has been in the Hollywood spotlight for decades, seems to have found her comfort zone. The antidiva opens up about her newfound TV
170 158
stardom, the art of relaxation and living the California dream.
158 A NEW FRONTIER Amid California’s forsaken abyss, a well-fashioned damsel kicks up the dust
176
in spring’s prairie-inspired floral prints, ruffles and romantic layers.
170 PAINTING THE TOWN Beloved fashion illustrator, celebrity portraitist, global man-about-town and Claridge’s artist-in-residence David Downton views L.A. through the looking glass.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO top and skirt, ERIC JAVITS hat, CHANEL cuffs, and JIMMY CHOO shoes.
176 INSEPARABLE Two is always better than one. This season, pair off in statement-making separates with exaggerated silhouettes.
188 WILDE ONE Wife, mother and lover of all things macabre, Sarah-Jane Wilde opens up her home in the hills to give us a view into her over-the top way of life.
C 44 MARCH 2016
DKNY jacket, DRIES VAN NOTEN top and pants, and CHURCH’S shoes.
“PAINTING THE TOWN” (P.170): DAVID DOWNTON. “WILDE ONE” (P.188): DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN. “A NEW FRONTIER” (P.158): CHRISTIAN ANWANDER. “INSEPARABLE” (P.176): MAURIZIO BAVUTTI. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P. 199
Features
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Tods
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CONTENTS 58 FOUNDER’S LETTER The dawn of a fashionable new era.
62 C PEOPLE Who’s who behind the scenes of C.
69 C WHAT’S HOT
124
Erin Wasson on the finer things in life. Black out: designer Catherine Quin at home in WeHo. Edun’s Danielle Sherman breaks down her fall shopping list. Aboard a model houseboat in Sausalito.
88 REPORTS FROM THE SOCIAL FRONT 93 C FASHION
137
Checking in on the state of fashion. The ultimate spring runway report, from shoulder-grazing statement earrings.
84
115 C BEAUTY Natalie Portman’s secrets to red-carpet readiness. Bottle service: celeb stylist Jen Atkin’s new line. Ashlie Johnson’s mani mobile.
TOC 2
121 C DESIGN The FOG (fair) clears. Harlow + Grey’s new party tricks. Pattern play: modern mosaics in cool black and white.
132
131 C MENU Fresh catch: Michael Cimarusti’s Cape Seafood and Provisions. Riding into The Wheelhouse. Two East Coast establishments head west.
137 C TRAVEL Just in time for the Olympics, retail queen Desiree Kohan’s insider guide to Brazil.
143 C CULTURE Pace Gallery finds its future calling. UC Berkeley gets a museum upgrade.
199 SHOPPING GUIDE 200 C WHEN IN… An inspiration board for your next Santa Barbara getaway. Eva Guerrand-Hermès shares her local haunts.
202 C CALIFORNIA Robert Mapplethorpe’s archives find two new L.A. homes.
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POOL (P.139): FERNANDO LOMBARDI. TILES (P.126): GREG ZABILSKI. KÜHN (P.86): THAYER ALLYSON GOWDY. SALAD (P.134): WHITNEY LEIGH MORRIS. DAYBREAKER (P.145): COURTESY OF TEAMLAB AND PACE GALLERY
sequins to slipdresses. Plus, the season’s
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ICONIC STYLE Balenciaga · Berluti · Bottega Veneta · Brioni · Brunello Cucinelli · Cartier · Céline · Chanel · Charlotte Olympia Chloé · Christian Louboutin · Dior · Dolce & Gabbana · Fendi · Gucci · Hermès · Lanvin · Louis Vuitton M Missoni · Marni · Miu Miu · Moncler · Oscar de la Renta · Prada · Ralph Lauren · Red Valentino Roger Vivier · Saint Laurent · Salvatore Ferragamo · Sam Edelman · Tod’s · Vacheron Constantin Saks Fifth Avenue · Bloomingdale’s · Nordstrom · Macy’s partial listing
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JENNIFER HALE
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President & Publisher JENNY MURRAY
Editor
JAMES TIMMINS
RENEE MARCELLO
Art Director
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KELSEY McKINNON
CRISTA VAGHI
Senior Editor
Southern California Director
HEATHER SEVERS
ALEXANDRA VON BARGEN
Style Director
Jewelry & Watch Director
ANDREA STANFORD
DEBBIE FLYNN
Design & Interiors Editor
Beauty & Home Director
SHADI BECCAI
AUTUMN O’KEEFE
Market Editor
Northwest Director
ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER
TAMMI DELANEY
Arts & Culture Editor
Development Director
MARGOT FODOR
ANNE MARIE PROVENZA
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Development Manager
JULIE WEBB
Designer
KRISTA NATALI
Marketing Manager
ROBERT RICHMOND
TROY FELKER
Digital Image Specialist
Finance Associate
LINDSAY KINDELON
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Information Technology Director
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Assistant Editor
LESLEY McKENZIE
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San Francisco Editor-at-Large Diane Dorrans Saeks Contributing Editor-at-Large Kendall Conrad Senior Contributing Editor Melissa Goldstein Contributing Digital Editor Elizabeth Varnell Contributing Photo Assistant Chad Weaver Contributing Fashion Assistant Fiona Park Copy Editors Richard Cordova, Lily Maximo Villanueva Special Projects Contributor Stephanie Steinman Contributing Editors George Kotsiopoulos, Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith, Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson
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de la Renta Fine Arts Museum / THE RETRO SPECTIVE Minotti
M A R 1 2 – M A Y 3 0, 2 0 1 6 Oscar de la Renta’s designs celebrated the best in us— beauty, optimism, and confidence. See more than 130 ensembles in the first major retrospective to pay tribute to one of the most beloved and influential fashion icons of our time.
This exhibition is organized by the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco with the collaboration of Oscar de la Renta LLC. Presenting Sponsors: Cynthia Fry Gunn and John A. Gunn. Director’s Circle: Diane B. Wilsey. Curator’s Circle: Lisa and Douglas Goldman Fund, The Diana Dollar Knowles Foundation, Marissa Mayer and Zachary Bogue, and Carl and Yurie Pascarella. Benefactor’s Circle: Paula and Bandel Carano, Stephanie and Jim Marver, Neiman Marcus, and Jennifer and Steven Walske. Patron’s Circle: Mrs. Carole McNeil and Mr. and Mrs. Joseph O. Tobin II. Additional support is provided by Mrs. George Hopper Fitch, and Mr. and Mrs. William Hamilton. Photo: Arthur Elgort for Vogue US, March 1999
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FOUNDER’S LETTER
There was a time, in certain circles, when the notion of California fashion was something of a long-standing joke. Lately, though, it’s all the collective style set seems to talk about—and in many cases, wants to be a part of. When Hedi Slimane chose to move Saint Laurent’s creative studio from Paris to Los Angeles a few years back, it signaled a new era of respect. That Slimane chose to forgo Paris and debut his entire men’s collection, and part one of his women’s Fall 2016 collection, at the Hollywood Palladium this February shows this state’s fashion cred is only gaining traction—with the Tom Ford Fall 2015 show last year in L.A. and the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2016 show in Palm Springs serving as the jumping-off point. And with brands like Rodarte, Juan Carlos Obando, Libertine, Monique Lhuillier, The Elder Statesman, Moschino and numerous others making their mark from the left coast, you know a renaissance is in full swing. And so, for this spring fashion issue, it was time that we went all in. With amazing photographers, a strong sartorial vision, stunning models and our new art direction, C continues to step up to the challenge of representing the Golden State in a modern, elevated way. You will see this in our two fashion portfolios: one showcasing this season’s take on the prairie-inspired look, presented in the middle of Joshua Tree National Park; the other, a story on street style, shot instudio so as to let the clothes speak for themselves. In this issue, noted fashion critic Booth Moore also makes a case for California fashion, and the ripple effect it’s having on the design world at large. On top of this, we present eternal Cali girl (and serious thespian) Kirsten Dunst in an ode to the ’90s (through an oh-socurrent lens, of course). I think that these are some of the most arresting photos we have seen of Dunst, capturing her at a point in her career when she can fully enjoy life in the Golden State. This place is home to all sorts of characters, and one of the more fun and outspoken is jewelry designer Sarah-Jane Wilde. Her midcentury home in Bel Air is a potpourri of personal style, with taxidermy and serious art mixed in with two Great Danes and a hairless cat. She has a house full of eccentricities that make it uniquely her. There is also my friend, famed fashion illustrator David Downton, who may not be a local, but recently came to town from London, and perfectly captured some of L.A.’s brightest stars within our midst. That we can enjoy all the glamour of this state while still setting trends that radiate from our coast to the rest of the world is nothing to take lightly. I think it is time to put away the stereotypes and start focusing on the facts—because they speak volumes.
JENNIFER HALE
Founder & Editorial Director We’d love to hear from you. Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.
C 58 MARCH 2016
AZABRA PHOTOGRAPHY
Founder’s Letter
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Bloomingdales
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COMING MARCH 1
From left to right: Sandro Paris lace tank and cropped pant, Elizabeth and James top and skirt set with Vince clutch and Aqua earrings, N Nicholas dress, Bardot jumpsuit, Joie top and shorts, Karen Millen dress with Michael Kors bag, Lucy Paris dress, Maje blazer and skirt, Whistles jumpsuit. All models wearing EstĂŠe Lauder lip gloss in 100% exclusive shades. Jewelry photos may have been enhanced and/or enlarged to show detail.
Bloomingdales
C PEOPLE
Who’s who behind the scenes of this issue, plus their favorite California places
For this month’s cover story (“Letting Loose,” p.150), New York-based photographer Alexei Hay (who has brought his distinct vision to shoots for clients like Gucci, Céline and Vogue) captured Kirsten Dunst in her California element. C SPOTS • Jumbo’s Clown Room in L.A.’s Thai Town for happy hour • It’s A Wrap in Hollywood—affordable clothing from movie productions that have just wrapped • The abandoned Griffith Park Zoo in L.A.
Douglas Friedman “S.J. tapped into my more eccentric side,” says lensman Douglas Friedman, who takes readers inside the bizarre and captivating Bel Air home of jewelry designer Sarah-Jane Wilde in “Wilde One,” p.188. “She pushed me creatively and I pushed her back; this went on and on all day long, and what we made is pretty cool.” The photographer has shot for publications like Harper’s Bazaar and Architectural Digest, and debuts his first monograph this fall. C SPOTS • EarthBar in West Hollywood for an IV drip full of vitamins • Wayfare Tavern in San Francisco for fried chicken dinner • The Pacific Tote Company store in Hollywood for the coolest canvas and leather bags
C People 1
Deborah Afshani “I got to play with styles that I have loved since I was a little girl,” says Deborah Afshani of styling the prairie-inspired fashion story “A New Frontier,” p.158. Afshani also lent her curatorial eye to this month’s cover shoot with Kirsten Dunst (“Letting Loose,” p.150). “I channeled ’90s Courtney Love…Kirsten rocked the look and was so much fun to work with,” she says. Afshani has styled for Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue Italia and Vanity Fair. C SPOTS • Integratron in Landers—the sound bath is like a healing nap time for grown-ups • Galerie Half in L.A. for decor inspiration • Jesús Rafael Soto’s “Penetrable” installation at LACMA, a favorite for my 2-year-old and me
David Downton Booth Moore “I’m thrilled to get the chance to talk to so many designers about the place I love most,” says fashion and lifestyle writer Booth Moore, who details the Golden State’s rising influence in “Westward Leaning,” p.93. The former fashion critic for the Los Angeles Times, Moore has contributed to publications including The Wall Street Journal and The New York Times. C SPOTS • Hiking the Indian Canyons in Palm Springs • Floating in the ocean in Malibu • Shopping at the piñon-scented RTH stores on La Cienega Boulevard for a retail experience that’s truly transporting
C 62 MARCH 2016
“L.A. has always been more about style than fashion; it marches to its own drum,” says renowned illustrator and celebrity portrait artist David Downton. In “Painting the Town,” p.170, the Brit documents an extravagant few days spent in Los Angeles sketching friends. In addition to being the first artist-inresidence at Claridge’s hotel in London, Downton counts the likes of Chanel and Dior as clients. His inimitable work is collected in his book, David Downton: Portraits of the World’s Most Stylish Women. C SPOTS • Peep Show in S.F.—Ken Fulk’s magical maximalist world • Tosca Café in S.F. • Clifton’s Cafeteria in L.A.
HAY: ROSE M c GOWAN. FRIEDMAN: COURTESY OF DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN. AFSHANI: JOHN KEAY. MOORE: ROBERT DOWNS. DOWNTON: JACOBUS SNYMAN
Alexei Hay
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C PEOPLE
Who’s who behind the scenes of this issue, plus their favorite California places
Maurizio Bavutti Photographer Maurizio Bavutti studied his artistic medium in Spain, London and his native Italy before landing in NYC, his current home. For this month’s fashion spread “Inseparable,” p.176, Bavutti captures this season’s spin on streetwear with a “chic and elegant” touch, he says. The lensman has shot for myriad publications including Vogue Japan, Harper’s Bazaar UK and W. C SPOTS • Carmel for its dream beaches and lots of art • Big Sur—hiking and surfing along the coast is a great meditation time • I love to ride a bike all the way down to El Matador Beach and, on the way back, stop by Venice Beach for a nice meal
C People 2
Elizabeth Cabral “It was a fun and challenging experience showcasing the spring collections in an artistic and nonconventional way,” says stylist Elizabeth Cabral of working on “Inseparable,” p.176. The former fashion director of Flare magazine, Cabral has also earned distinction as a fashion consultant and celebrity stylist, working with the likes of Taylor Swift and Beyoncé. C SPOTS • Beverly Hills Juice • Sunset Tower Hotel is my home away from home • Gjelina restaurant in Venice—nothing beats the cozy back patio
“I don’t know what I enjoy more—taking pictures and sharing them with the world or diving into the unknown and being off the beaten path to recharge and remember that simplicity rules,” says Desiree Kohan, who divulges intrepid traveler tips from her adventures in “Southern Exposure,” p.137. When she’s not satisfying her wanderlust, Kohan is on the hunt for up-and-coming designers to feature in her eponymous L.A. boutique. C SPOTS • Esalen Institute in Big Sur • Malibu Farm restaurant for a glass of wine and early dinner with my son while watching my husband surf • Wilshire Beauty in West Hollywood; it’s a onestop-shop for all my aromatherapy oils, candles, natural hair products and more
C 66 MARCH 2016
Jillian Dempsey
Matthew Luem
“Kirsten [Dunst] has one of those romantic, versatile faces that really comes alive in front of the camera,” says makeup artist Jillian Dempsey of creating Dunst’s look for C’s cover story, “Letting Loose,” p.150. The L.A.-based beauty expert is a go-to for some of Hollywood’s biggest stars, including Jennifer Lawrence and Kate Winslet. C SPOTS • Gloveworx boxing for an intense arm and core workout • Jaimie Geller Jewelry in Pacific Palisades • Naimie’s Beauty Center in Valley Village, where I feed my beauty habits and stock my makeup kit
“Joshua Tree is already one of the greatest natural sets in the world,” says set designer Matthew Luem of creating a minimalistic backdrop for “A New Frontier,” p.158. The L.A.-based artist and filmmaker’s résumé includes producing content and commercials for brands like Nike, and designing the set for last year’s award-winning film Chronic. C SPOTS • Blacks Beach in La Jolla for its spectacular surfing and clear water • Locol in Watts for a healthy take on fast food • Little Joy in Echo Park for tequila with friends
CABRAL: MIKAEL SCHULZ. BAVUTTI: COURTESY OF MAURIZIO BAVUTTI. LUEM: LAUREN WARD. DEMPSEY: COURTESY OF STARWORKS ARTISTS. KOHAN: DES KOHAN
Desiree Kohan
Van Cleef & Arpels
Unveiling of the new boutique at Neiman Marcus San Francisco
Haute Joaillerie, place Vend么me since 1906
NEIMAN MARCUS SAN FRANCISCO - 150 Stockton Street - 415-362-3900 vancleefarpels.com
Jimmy Choo
Edited by KELSEY McKINNON
ARTO SAARI
WH (opener)
Erin Wasson wears the WASSON FINE Flex Lock pearl bracelet, $3,375, and Half Sphere rings with labradorite, from $765Â each.
Rock Goddess Perennial cool girl and MULTIFACETED model ERIN WASSON translates her signature edge into a new fine JEWELRY line MARCH 2016 C 69
WHAT’S HOT “I like the idea of jewelry becoming a part of your body and [how it] feels on your skin,” says Wasson, featured in images from the debut lookbook. Right: Chandelier ball earrings, $2,995.
TROPHY Piece Left: Tilt Pearl ring, $585.
“Growing up in Texas and spending a lot of time in New Mexico, I still have this unbelievably romantic idea of a woman on a ranch riding horses and decked out in beautiful pieces of silver,” says Venice Beach-based model Erin Wasson, who happens to be calling from the Lone Star State, where she is celebrating her 34th birthday. This spring, she brings her unfading cowgirl vision into focus with the debut of a new high jewelry line, Wasson Fine. After making costume jewelry under the label Low Luv for nearly a decade, Wasson aims for her new collection to imbue everyday pieces with more permanence and intention: “I am at a place in my life where I want to get back to working with precious metals and stones,” says Wasson, whose 15-year career in
C 70 MARCH 2016
A red-carpet authority in sleek and modern, London-based eveningwear brand Galvan is a favorite of starlets like Jennifer Lawrence and Rihanna. This awards season, the label joins forces with Opening Ceremony and Swarovski for a line of bespoke gowns with crystal-encrusted accents and silky silhouettes worthy of an Oscar. Galvan and Opening Ceremony are also launching a namesake ready-to-wear collection, featuring polished off-the-shoulder jumpsuits, ’90s-inspired slip dresses and more. Available at Opening Ceremony, 451 N. La Cienega Blvd., W.H., 310-652-1120; openingceremony.us.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE DIMEGLIO. WASSON: ARTO SAARI. GALAVAN: COURTESY OF OPENING CEREMONY
WH (turn)
fashion—walking runways for Gucci, Chanel and Victoria’s Secret—also includes designing fine jewelry for friend Alexander Wang’s shows. Wasson escaped to her new house in Ojai on the weekends to create a precise narrative for her inaugural range—drawing inspiration from such elements as sea life and ’50s car headlights. “It’s a bit of a mad-hatter process,” she concedes. Handcrafted in Downtown Los Angeles, the collection contrasts soft and romantic pearls with abstract architectural designs in sterling silver, 14-karat gold and diamonds—from two-toned, crescent-moon earrings and an avantgarde disc and pin ring with labradorite, to pearl cluster bracelets and toggle necklaces. The duality of feminine and edgy, country yet urban, seems to be Wasson’s calling card. This month, she presents her fall collection (replete with slimmer silhouetted gold pieces scattered with diamonds and stones) in Paris during fashion week. Of course, getting through the metal detector at airport security is no easy task: “I’m never without ornamentation—I’m like a Christmas tree 365 days a year.” wassonfine.com. • LINDSAY KINDELON
Lanvin
From far left: KATHLEEN WHITAKER in her Downtown L.A. studio. Stone collection rings in lapis, $1,675, aquamarine, $2,450, and dendritic quartz, $2,250.
DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES
Gilty Pleasures Although Kathleen Whitaker studied ceramics in college, she found herself working at a financialservices firm in her hometown of New York City post-graduation. It was only after 9/11 destroyed her offices and she was relocated to Los Angeles that she slowly made her way back into the creative fold. In 2004, she launched a geometric, easy-to-wear line of all-gold jewelry that became a cult classic among the L.A. fashion set. This spring, she unveils a sister collection incorporating semiprecious stones including Sleeping Beauty turquoise and Peruvian opal. “I think my own tastes are maturing and a little more elevated,” Whitaker says. “The contrast of an organic stone next to this slick form really resonates with me.” kathleenwhitaker.com.
WH (whitaker) Above: Peruvian opal earrings set in 14-karat gold, $3,425. Left: Fan earring, $1,950.
INTERNATIONAL ORANGE Cleanse body wash, $38.
CALA’s modern facade in Hayes Valley.
LARKSPUR
UNwind SAN FRANCISCO
Uno Más Chef and restaurateur Gabriela Cámara transports the flavors of her native Mexico to San Francisco’s culinary scene with her inaugural U.S. restaurant, Cala. Housed in a 1919 former car garage, the dining destination serves up mescalinfused cocktails and Mexican seafood cuisine—a concept Cámara long perfected at her esteemed restaurant, Contramar, in Mexico City. Cala’s locale poses an unexpected twist for the sustainably driven chef: “The ingredients [here] are much more dependent on seasons, therefore menus have to change; I’ve needed to be more creative,” says Cámara. The result? Must-try dishes like sea urchin-topped tamal de cazuela. 149 Fell St., S.F., 415-660-7701; calarestaurant.com.
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Fourteen years after opening International Orange’s flagship spa on Fillmore Street, the beloved institution is expanding across the Bay with a 6,000-square-foot location at the Marin Country Mart. The new space features 11 treatment rooms, a retail boutique, lounge, and locker rooms with sauna and steam. We recommend a steam shower and a hot tea on the private deck overlooking the Ferry Terminal with stunning views of Mount Tamalpais before an IO signature massage. 2421 Larkspur Landing Cir., Ste. 43, Larkspur, 415-563-5000; internationalorange.com.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D I MEGLIO AND KELSEY M C KINNON. PORTRAIT AND JEWELRY: DIANA KOENIGSBERG. FAN EARRING: COURTESY OF KATHLEEN WHITAKER. INTERIOR AND BATH WASH: COURTESY OF INTERNATIONAL ORANGE. CALA: CHLOE LIST
WHAT’S HOT
Bally
WHAT’S HOT Tastemaker
Danielle SHERMAN Danielle Sherman, whose refined taste helped establish The Row’s minimalist aesthetic, shines as the creative director of Edun, the high-fashion, fair-trade line founded by Ali Hewson and Bono. Recently, she’s been inspired by Belgian choreographer Akarova and Kuba Kingdom’s ceremonial dance costumes (the line is produced in Africa). Closer to home, this past winter Sherman and her husband, photographer Todd Selby, welcomed their first child, daughter Ella. Here, the Santa Monica native reports from maternity leave on what’s on her radar for spring.
4.
1.
3.
WH (tastmaker)
1. MALFATTI GLASS carafe, $39, and pitcher, $64. 2. GALERIE HALF design store, 6911 Melrose Ave., L.A. 3. AESOP Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, $27. 4. MALIBU FARM PIER CAFE, 23000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu. 5. CONVERSE Chuck Taylor All Star ’70 shoes, $85. 6. ETEL ADNAN painting, Untitled, 2012. 7. TENFOLD throw, $978, theline.com. 8. EDUN pre-Fall 2016. 9. KRISTIN-LEE MOOLMAN photograph, Outside Daddy’s House. 10. FERNANDO ACIAR plate, $35, fefostudio.com. 11. BYREDO Tree House candle, $80.
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11.
5.
SHERMAN: TODD SELBY. 2: SHADE DEGGES PHOTOGRAPHY. 4: MARTIN LOF. 6: COURTESY OF ETEL ADNAN AND CALLICOON FINE ARTS, NY. 9: KRISTIN-LEE MOOLMAN. 10: CHARLES ROUSSEL
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LOS ANGELES
Kindred SPIRITS For L.A.-based sisters and new mothers Katherine and Margaret Kleveland, life’s next stage prompted a palpable sartorial shift: “It was not just out of necessity, but a desire to be more natural and own our femininity—[to be] effortless but still put together,” says Katherine, who, alongside Margaret, previously honed her craft at Joie (as executive VP of design and footwear division manager, respectively). And so, Dôen (“to do” in Dutch) was born, so to speak, with the help of partners Allie Furlotti, Hilary Walsh and Hilary Tisch. Spring’s debut is full of dreamy silhouettes for the “off-duty career
WH (doen)
woman,” taking heavy cues from the Klevelands’ Santa Barbara upbringing. Incorporating such fabrics as organic cotton, crinkled gauze and washed raw silk from recent sourcing trips in India and Peru, pieces range from frayed tunics to a hand-embroidered poncho, billowy tasseltied dresses, and an intricately crafted take on a ’70s Hungarian peasant blouse. Each season, the line will replicate one style in a children’s size to benefit Room to Read, an organization that helps close the gender gap through literacy. “We want to have our values go through everything that we do,” says Katherine. $125-$380; shopdoen.com.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE DIMEGLIO, LINDSAY KINDELON AND KELSEY MCKINNON. DÔEN (3): HILARY WALSH. PLATFORM: KATIE LOVAS GIBBS
Clockwise from right: Sisters Katherine and Margaret Kleveland. DÔEN Marche dress, $178, Nellcote Silk Noil Wrap, $158, and gladiator sandals, $235.
CULVER CITY
Tract Stars Culver City’s Platform may be Los Angeles’ most exciting new shopping destination— but just don’t call it a mall. The airy complex housed in Hayden Tract, designed by Abramson Teiger Architects, is a landing spot for many new retail concepts, including Linda Farrow’s U.S. debut, Magasin and art gallery Tappan Collective. Before hitting the rest of the retail lineup (Curve partnered with Tom Dixon on a concept store and cafe, Aesop, Floral Art and Parabellum, among others), Loqui, a classic taqueria formerly attached to Tartine Bakery in S.F., and São, known for decadent acai bowls, are at the ready. platformla.com.
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PLAY On
TOD’S Venice Double T Tracolla Rock bag, $2,095.
Tod’s newest bag line, Venice, takes its cues from L.A.’s namesake beach town, with a dose of Hollywood glam. From the graphic-themed Laser Borchie to the crimson Tracolla bag with the new Double T logo, the eccentric collection from Creative Director Alessandra Facchinetti is accented with microstuds, Swarovski crystals, layered leathers, guitarshaped pins and metal stars to give the luxurious bags, in Facchinetti’s words, “rock attitude.” 333 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-285-0591; tods.com.
Marco Bicego
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WHAT’S HOT
ST. HELENA
Crushing It
The C List KATHERINE TSINA BIRD
Katherine Tsina Bird’s new Atwater Village boutique AVION Clothier (avion clothier.com) subscribes to the same aesthetic that enthralls fans of her elegant, utilitarian line by the same name. Visitors can lounge on white polished concrete Soma Stones by Oakland-based Concreteworks, and browse children’s clothing by Makie, ceramics by Eshelman Pottery and Tsina Bird’s new range of crisp, tailored shirtdresses and tunics. Here, her favorite neighborhood haunts: • Proof Bakery The best coffee, sandwiches and pastries. proofbakery la.com. • Alias Books East A beautiful selection of rare art and photography books. aliasbookseast.com. • A Place to Create For Waldorf-based kids art classes (that my son loves). aplaceto create.net. • Canelé Cozy, delicious, seasonal French food. canele.la. • Pilates Metro Excellent teachers and Gyrotonics training. pilatesmetro .com. • Individual Medley A lovely place to find a nice gift. individualmedley store.com.
From top: AVION CLOTHIER Founder Katherine Tsina Bird. Interiors of the new Atwater Village boutique.
David Sinegal, son of Costco co-founder James Sinegal, hung up his corporate hat in Seattle for a satiating new venture: vintner and proprietor of St. Helena’s Sinegal Estate winery. The newly renovated 30-acre vineyard is home to expansive gardens, a private lake with rowboats, a 6,500-square-foot wine cave, tasting room and an Estate Lounge—open for viewing by appointment only. 2125 Inglewood Ave., St. Helena, 707-244-1187; sinegalestate.com. DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES
Ladies FIRST
WH (c list) HAUSER WIRTH & SCHIMMEL Liz Larner’s Reticule, 1999-2000.
Hauser Wirth & Schimmel’s debut exhibit at its new complex in the L.A. Arts District (a former flour mill) is a museum-caliber investigation into the women who have changed the country’s postwar creative vernacular. Through nearly 100 works made by more than 30 artists, “Revolution in the Making: Abstract Sculpture by Women, 19472016” explores myriad approaches to form through Ruth Asawa’s looped wire sculptures from the 1960s juxtaposed with Kaari Upson’s 2015 Trashole Trashole, which was commissioned specifically for the show. March 13-Sept. 4. 901 E. 3rd St., L.A., hauserwirthschimmel.com.
MARCHESA Lily clutch, $2,995, and Evie flat, $765.
Details, Details For 12 years, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s Marchesa has been the go-to source for ultrafeminine red-carpet gowns. Now, to complete the look, the house unveils a debut 28-style collection of footwear featuring everything from embroidered jeweled peep-toes to Malibu-ready espadrilles. For best results, pair with the label’s jewelencrusted clutches in spring’s pastel palette. marchesa.com.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE DIMEGLIO, MELISSA GOLDSTEIN AND KELSEY MCKINNON. PORTRAIT: ADDIE JOUELL. AVION INTERIORS: BRICA WILCOX FOR AVION CLOTHIER. LIZ LARNER, RETICULE, 1999–2000, CAST POLYURETHANE, 187.9 × 284.5 × 203.2 CM/74 × 112 × 80 IN., BLANTON MUSEUM OF ART, THE UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS AT AUSTIN. GIFT OF JEANNE AND MICHAEL KLEIN, 2007. © LIZ LARNER: COURTESY REGEN PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES
Estate Lounge and wine library designed by Juancarlos Fernandez of Signum Architecture. Below: SINEGAL ESTATE Sauvignon Blanc 2013, $45.
Valentino Red
WHAT’S HOT Office Visit
Clockwise from far left: CATHERINE QUIN at her home office in the West Hollywood hills in a dress from the S/S16 collection. A mood board with gold looks from the A/W16 collection. A GUY BOURDIN photograph. Looks from the S/S16 collection. Quin’s airy home.
THE Dark SIDE
Catherine Quin’s MONOCHROMATIC SILHOUETTES seduce even the most COLORFUL CHARACTERS Open the doors to Catherine Quin’s wardrobe and it’s a little like falling into a black hole. “I’ve been wearing only black for about five years—I never get tired of it,” says the West Hollywood-based fashion designer. The color became the pillar of her eponymous collection, now in its third season. Sticking with this end of the spectrum also offers Quin the ability to experiment with texture and dimension, mostly in silk, but also leather and a signature croc-embossed calfskin.
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A native Bermudian, Quin says she grew up surrounded by “neons and caftans” before moving to London and starting her career as a family lawyer. Her office happened to be near art and design school Central Saint Martins, where she took night classes in design until she was ready to make a career change. Quin’s education continued in Los Angeles under the tutelage of her good friend Sophie Buhai, who at that time was running Vena Cava, and encouraged Quin to hop the pond. For fall, the designer is gently introducing color to the mix—gold, navy and ivory—along with cashmere. But as for whether she will be adding any alternate hues to her personal wardrobe? “Definitely not—I’m a purist,” she insists, adding, “but that doesn’t mean I don’t think they are beautiful.” catherinequin.com. • KELSEY McKINNON
STUDIO AND PORTRAIT: DIANA KOENIGSBERG. LOOKBOOK (2): JIRO SCHNEIDER
WH (studio visit)
Versace
WHAT’S HOT
MEMORY Lane
The de Young CELEBRATES the life and work of Oscar de la Renta in a world premiere RETROSPECTIVE
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WH (oscar) Wilsey, a friend and client since 1963, broached the exhibition to the designer two years ago in Lake Tahoe. Since 1969, the League to Save Lake Tahoe has hosted a Saks Fifth Avenue fashion show each summer, a cause de la Renta inherited from the late designer Bill Blass, and which the house continues to support. “Oscar appreciated that the de Young has a commitment to ‘fashion as art,’ which he knew from our previous shows on Gaultier, Yves Saint Laurent and his former mentor, Balenciaga,” says Wilsey. During a recent visit with her mother, Ruth Buchanan, Wilsey shared exhibition updates as Buchanan fondly reminisced about a beloved 1963 Oscar gown. “For a 97-year-old woman to intimately describe a dress from half a century ago, well, Oscar was that great a designer,” says Wilsey. March 12-May 30; 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr., S.F., 415-750-3600; deyoung.famsf.org. • CATHERINE BIGELOW
SPRING 2015 RUNWAY: COURTESY OF OSCAR DE LA RENTA LLC. CAFTAN: COURTESY OF OSCAR DE LA RENTA ARCHIVE. FALL 2013 DRESS: COURTESY OF OSCAR DE LA RENTA
When legendary designer Oscar de la Renta died in October 2014, a collective gasp could be heard from the industry, as well as scores of the soigné women who draped themselves in his exquisite redcarpet-friendly creations. Yet they weren’t just lamenting a fashionworld loss. Fans and friends felt the passing of a graciously elegant esprit, too, which this storied couturier, a Dominican Republic native, embodied with distinctive élan. That memory reignites this month at the de Young Museum when the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco presents “Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective.” Curated by André Leon Talley, former American editor-at-large for Vogue, the exhibition (in collaboration with the designer’s family and the House of Oscar de la Renta) features more than 130 ensembles (spanning 1963 to 2015) of his most iconic looks organized thematically, ranging from Spanish influence to daywear. Statement pieces include gowns worn by former first lady Laura Bush; the designer’s widow, Annette de la Renta; and Bay Area locals such as philanthropist Ann Getty and Dede Wilsey, board of trustees president of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.
Clockwise from far left: Finale of OSCAR DE LA RENTA’s last runway show (Spring 2015). Iman in a handpainted print silk caftan from Summer 1982. A violet silk faille evening dress with metallic embroidery from the designer’s Fall 2013 collection.
T:7.125”
Reinvented from the inside out. Reinvented from the outside in.
Introducing the all-new GLC. Whatever your vantage point, the GLC is a game-changer. From its showstopping exterior to its technology-filled cabin. From a suite of intelligent assistance systems that think, monitor and adjust as you drive to an infotainment system so smart, it can read your handwriting. “All-new” in every possible sense, the GLC resets the bar for the luxury SUV. MBUSA.com/GLC
THE 2016
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Visit your Bay Area Mercedes-Benz Dealer for a test drive today. Find us online at BayAreaMercedes.com. 2016 GLC 300 shown in Iridium Silver metallic paint with optional equipment. *MSRP excludes all options, taxes, title, registration, transportation charge and dealer prep. Options, model availability and actual dealer price may vary. See dealer for details. ©2016 Authorized Mercedes-Benz Dealers For more information, call 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES, or visit MBUSA.com.
HEADLINE: 26 pt. • BODY COPY: 10 pt.
T:9.875”
Mercedes Benz
WHAT’S HOT Home Tour
NAUTICAL by Nature Model KYLEIGH KÜHN and Ryan Bankwell make a sea change by OVERHAULING their dream boat in SAUSALITO
WH (boat)
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the humanitarian organization Roots of Peace, started by Kühn’s mother, Heidi, in 1997, was the target of a Taliban attack in Kabul, Afghanistan. The tragedy left Kühn shaken and yearning to be closer to her family. “I felt helpless,” she says. “I needed to get my hands dirty. I wanted to feel useful.” For a year and a half, Bankwell and Kühn worked 10-hour days on their future home, under the guidance of Kühn’s father, Gary, who has been repairing boats since the age of 14. Three months in dry dock were spent fiberglassing Whim’s hull and gutting its
THAYER ALLYSON GOWDY
Blame it on the classifieds. In early 2014, model Kyleigh Kühn, a sixth-generation San Rafael native, and her longtime boyfriend, Ryan Bankwell, moved back to Northern California from New York, and were soon submerged in a major undertaking: restoring a 1979 Gibson houseboat that Kühn had unearthed on a daily sweep through Craigslist. She impulsively purchased the battered bateau from a seller in Sacramento for $3,000—money she had earned from a Gap holiday campaign (she’s also graced the Pirelli Calendar and ads for Toms shoes). “The boat’s name was Whim, which seemed perfect,” says Kühn, 28. The timing was also right: In the months before the couple’s return to the West Coast,
Clockwise from left: A picture of KYLEIGH KÜHN’s greatgrandmother’s German shepherd. Kühn on the walkway. The couch on the deck was sourced at an estate sale. The steering-wheel console doubles as a nightstand.
Hugo Boss
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congested interior, which Kühn likened to a “spider’s nest” for its dark wood paneling and claustrophobic arrangement of walls. Once the boat was docked in Sausalito (Kühn found a slip for rent on—where else?—Craigslist), the couple’s modern maritime vision began to take shape: A loft bed was built to make space below for a “tearoom,” now anchored by an antique chinoiserie table that Kühn inherited from her great-grandmother. Shelves composed of collected West Marin driftwood are emblematic of the surrounding landscape. Elegant brass accents—a sink, a mirror, a nautical bell roughly etched with “Whim”— gleam in the cabin’s generous sunlight. In the newly widened galley, Bankwell, a cook at San Francisco’s beloved Quince restaurant, whips up pan-roasted king salmon and quinoa for alfresco lunches on one of three outdoor decks. On clear evenings, friends mill about the boat sipping cocktails before an easy stroll to nearby Bar Bocce for wood-fired pizza. Such are the rewards for an intense 18 months of boat “flipping.” There are others: undisputed DIY swagger; new and improved couplehood (“We are more trusting
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WH (boat)
Clockwise from top left: The tearoom features a silver pouf, a custom desk space and Kühn’s great-grandmother’s hand-carved coffee table. The bathroom sink was crafted from a brass bowl found at a flea market and mahogany salvaged from a Chris-Craft that sank; the mirror is Anthropologie. RYAN BANKWELL whips up lunch. An assortment of family heirlooms and vintage pieces, including Whim’s brass bell.
and patient with each other after this experience,” says Bankwell, 28); and, most of all, says Kühn, “a safe little place to call our own.” Currently, Kühn is renovating a heritage Craftsman in Marin with her three brothers; splitting time between a Brooklyn apartment and Whim (both occasionally available through Airbnb); and hyping another Craigslist discovery, a small warehouse on Clementina Street in S.F.’s South of Market neighborhood. Dubbed The Clementina, the work space/arts venue is where Kühn hopes to build a community of S.F.’s creative minds. Kühn’s father grins as he recognizes her go-getter streak—his daughter, the accidental real estate mogul. “When I was young, my nickname was Go,” he says. “Kyleigh is all action—she’s Go Jr.” • LEILANI MARIE LABONG
THAYER ALLYSON GOWDY
WHAT’S HOT Home Tour
Mandarin Oriental
REPORTS From the SOCIAL Front Sizing up CALIFORNIA’S glamorous SCENE one BASH at a time
Stella McCartney
The worlds of music and fashion collided for Stella McCartney’s Autumn 2016 presentation at legendary Hollywood record store Amoeba Music. McCartney’s high-profile squad (Kate Hudson, Gwyneth Paltrow, Katy Perry) came out en masse and were treated to surprise performances by Beach Boys icon Brian Wilson and the delightfully odd pairing of Johnny Depp and Marilyn Manson.
FOG DESIGN+ART
Jemima Kirke, Katy Perry
The third annual FOG Design+Art Preview Gala drew San Francisco tastemakers and exhibitors including Sako Fisher, Jessica Silverman and co-founder Douglas Durkin to the Fort Mason Center Festival Pavilion for a first look at this year’s design objects, furniture and art.
Kate Hudson
Juliet de Baubigny
Nicole Richie
Quincy Jones, Rashida Jones
Mary J. Blige, Amber Valletta
Stephanie and Jim Marver
Jessica Silverman and Sarah Thornton
Baby2Baby
Channing Tatum and Jenna Dewan Tatum
Kelly Sawyer Patricof, Kerry Washington, Norah Weinstein
Featuring guest of honor Kerry Washington, Baby2Baby’s annual star-studded gala raised $2.1 million to support underprivileged children. Attendees, including Jessica Alba and Kelly Rowland, bid on silent auction items and danced to sets by DJ Samantha Ronson and Ja Rule. Jessica Alba
Jessica Biel, Jaime King
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Jim Toth and Reese Witherspoon
Jenni Kayne, Jason Bateman and Amanda Anka, Richard Ehrlich Rachel Zoe
Martha Stewart
Jenni Kayne + Martha Stewart
Martha Stewart Living celebrated 25 years of domestic excellence with an intimate soiree held at Jenni Kayne’s West Hollywood boutique. Stewart joined guests Jason Bateman and Rachel Zoe, while revelers visited DIY greenery arrangement stations and sipped on mescal-infused cocktails.
M c CARTNEY: DAVID X PRUTTING. FOG: DREW ALTIZER. BABY2BABY AND KAYNE + STEWART: STEPHANIE KEENAN
Lily Rose Depp, Johnny Depp and Amber Heard, Stella McCartney, Orlando Bloom
Reports
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SAN FRANCISCO BALLET: DREW ALTIZER. BARNEYS NEW YORK + MEYER: STEPHANIE KEENAN. NET-A-PORTER: DONATO SARDELLA
THE SCENE
Dede Wilsey
Randi Fisher
Damian Smith, Vanessa Getty
Joy Venturini Bianchi
San Francisco Ballet Gavin Newsom and Jennifer Siebel Newsom, Tom Horn
Carolyn Chang, Norah Stone, Yurie Pascarella, Deepa Pakianathan
Barneys New York + Jennifer Meyer Jewelry designer Jennifer Meyer Maguire invited famous friends such as Jennifer Aniston and Dakota Johnson to her Los Angeles home for a Parisian-themed outdoor celebration, toasting her exclusive readyto-wear collaboration, Barneys New York XO Jennifer Meyer.
The San Francisco Ballet kicked off its 83rd repertory season in style at the S.F. War Memorial Opera House. Artistic Director and Principal Choreographer Helgi Tomasson’s productions included “Adagio” from Carmen and a pas de deux from Swan Lake. The evening ended with an after-party at City Hall.
Best Dressed
January Jones
Reports
Tobey Maguire, Blake Shelton Gwen Stefani
From an off-the-shoulder Marc Jacobs to an aproned Louis Vuitton, Swedish beauty Alicia Vikander is stepping out in a number of winning looks this awards season.
LOUIS VUITTON
Courteney Cox, Emily Ward
Jennifer Aniston, Jennifer Meyer Maguire
Brigette Romanek, Justin Kern
Cate Blanchett, Elizabeth Stewart
Monique Lhuillier, Laura Mulleavy
Juan Carlos Obando, Kendall Conrad
ERDEM
Net-a-Porter Stylist Elizabeth Stewart joined Net-a-Porter and actress Cate Blanchett in hosting an elegant candlelit dinner at Chateau Marmont. The night acknowledged Hollywood’s leading image-makers, who, like the e-commerce brand, are key influencers of today’s trends. Alex Pettyfer, Ross Cassidy. Alex von Furstenberg
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Westward Leaning
Vogue’s Anna Wintour and the entire Beckham clan sat front row at BURBERRY’s Fall 2015 show at the Griffith Observatory in L.A. last April.
New York, Paris…Los Angeles? As the FASHION WORLD looks to the West Coast for its next style cue, BOOTH MOORE confirms L.A.’s status as the CAPITAL OF COOL
Don’t you wish the fashion gods would just go ahead and move all the runway shows to Los Angeles already? The way designers all over the world are fawning over and riffing on California, they really might as well. Saint Laurent designer Hedi Slimane is so besotted with SoCal’s youthful music and art subcultures, he planned his Fall 2016 menswear show at the Hollywood Palladium in February. And in January, Stella McCartney brought her women’s Autumn 2016 collection to Amoeba Music on Sunset Boulevard, showing her ’70s-inspired clothes among the bins of CDs and vinyl, and hosting performances by Beach Boy Brian Wilson, as well as Johnny Depp and Marilyn Manson, among others. “L.A. is on fire creatively,” McCartney said at the event. And both happenings follow on the fashionable heels of last year’s Burberry show at L.A.’s Griffith Observatory, Tom Ford at L.A.’s Milk Studios and Louis Vuitton in Palm Springs. California has had its sartorial moments in the past, mostly in the surf, skate and sunshine gaze (remember the Chanel surfboard?). And yet it’s never been considered a style capital, until now.
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“L.A. is ON FIRE creatively.”
it comes to California and fashion, it’s the celebrities, stupid. They haven’t just hijacked the runway; they’ve hijacked the whole industry. Not only was Derek Zoolander on the Valentino catwalk, he was on the cover of Vogue. Kanye West got more attention releasing his new album and Yeezy 3 collection simultaneously at Madison Square Garden during New York Fashion Week—and selling tickets to the public—than all the haute couture shows combined. Calvin Klein caused a #MyCalvins frenzy by putting Justin Bieber in a pair of skivvies—and nothing else. No wonder the balance of power has shifted from east to west, where so many of these synergies are hatched in the offices of Creative Artists Agency and WME. We’ve gone way beyond red-carpet dressing; now, fashion is entertainment. Technology has played a part in this, too. Thanks to the Internet and social media, runway shows are not just for insiders anymore; they’re for anyone who wants to tune into a livestream or social media platform (or buy a ticket to see West). To compete with the celebrity onslaught, designers have had to start thinking more like entertainers, upping the showmanship on and off the runway to create vivid, shareable images—which brings us to the spring runways. Marc Jacobs’ “One Night Only!” held
GREG LAUREN
—STELLA MCCARTNEY
So why is fashion’s new muse California? There’s a sense of optimism here that anything can happen. L.A.’s relatively affordable rents and neverending opportunity for geographic expansion have led to flourishing creative enterprise, trendy new restaurants and stores, and vibrant art and music worlds. And Silicon Valley is the center of the tech universe, and the birthplace of such forward-thinking, clean-energy concepts as Tesla Motors. Yet as James Carville might say, when
Fashion (turn)
Designer TOM FORD hosted his Fall 2015 show at L.A.’s Milk Studios instead of his usual London on Oscar weekend in February 2015.
From top: Gwyneth Paltrow and STELLA MCCARTNEY at the designer’s Autumn 2016 presentation at L.A.’s Amoeba Music in January. Designer Hedi Slimane of SAINT LAURENT moved his Fall 2016 menswear show (which included “part one” of the women’s collection) from Paris to the Hollywood Palladium on February 10.
RODARTE
M C CARTNEY: DAVID X PRUTTING. SLIMANE: Y.R. TOM FORD: CHARLEY GALLAY. LOUIS VUITTON: BILLY FARRELL AGENCY
LOUIS VUITTON presented its Cruise 2016 collection in Palm Springs at the Bob and Dolores Hope estate in May 2015.
at the landmark Ziegfeld Theatre in New York was a fashion-show tribute to Americana, with an all-star cast including models Beth Ditto, Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner and celebrity guests Debbie Harry and Bette Midler. The collection was chock-full of sparkly bandleader uniforms, star-spangled American flag jackets, sweater vests knit with popcorn and movie-camera motifs, and a showstopping gown in a photo print based on Janet Leigh’s Psycho scream (that would be killer to wear to a movie premiere). Fashion met theater in a more subtle way on Lanvin’s runway, where Alber Elbaz’s collection unfolded in acts, with beautifully tailored black-and-white separates punctuated by dramatic flounces or bows, yielding to fireworks of sequins on cocktail looks, and Pop Art dresses emblazoned with his colorful sketches of shoes and perfume bottles. It was the perfect finale to Elbaz’s tenure at Lanvin, as if by design. But don’t cry for him; since he announced his departure, he’s found new popularity on Instagram. Drama wasn’t only confined to the runways; it’s in the clothes, too, which seem to celebrate the performance of getting dressed. It’s almost as if designers decided, now that social media is making us all selfie stars in our own lives, we need costumes! Alessandro Michele has certainly flipped the script at Gucci with his Technicolor parade of lust-worthy Lurex knits, ribbon-tied floral dresses and a serpent-and-rose-embroidered white pantsuit that bears a passing resemblance to the work of North Hollywood’s legendary rodeo tailor Nudie Cohn, the man who got cowboys to wear rhinestones. Like Slimane at Saint Laurent, Michele eschews overarching runway trends that change every six months in favor of exuberant individual pieces. “He’s a costume designer who creates fashion,” costume designer and stylist Arianne Phillips told me earlier this year, reflecting on Michele’s layered sensibility and his custom wardrobe for Madonna’s “Rebel Heart” tour. It’s true, Gucci may be the brand, but Michele’s quirky clothes encourage you to be your own brand—and share it across all platforms. Then there’s L.A.’s own Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte, whose collaged
lace, fringe and embroidery dresses, shimmery pajama-style pants and shaggy peplum jackets, and Deco platform shoes are the stuff of stardust dreams, and one of their best collections yet. Not content to limit their cinematic vision to the runway, they’ve gone off and become filmmakers, following in Tom Ford’s footsteps: Their directorial debut, Woodshock, will premiere later this year. But if living in California, rather than gazing at it from the outside, has taught us anything, it’s that putting on the glitz is nice, but going casual is nicer. And so goes the rest of the world. After all, this is the leisure land that birthed Juicy Couture tracksuits and Mark Zuckerberg hoodies, both precursors to fashion’s current obsessions with designer sneakers, comfy athleisure and streetwear. California’s casual cool is the reason we have spring’s fabulous Chloé rainbow-striped track pants and Coachella-ready denim peasant dresses, Libertine’s painted caftans, The Elder Statesman’s tie-dyed cashmere sweatshirts, and Monique Lhuillier’s jeweltoned evening tunic over pants look, an update on 1960s hostess pajamas. Even when we’re heading to the gym, dashing out to get a cold-pressed juice, or hosting at home, Continued on p.198
Fashion (turn)
GUCCI
MARCH 2016 C 95
FASHION Runway Report
Au COURANT
SONIA RYKIEL
Straight off the CATWALKS, our favorite LOOKS for SPRING—from lingerie dressing to STRIKING stripes SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
All That Glitters
RALPH LAUREN
Sequins that light up the night
M MISSONI
Fashion (bits) Line Up
Nautical or bohemian in nature, stripes stand out
VERA WANG
CAROLINA HERRERA
CHLOÉ
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MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION
Fashion (bits) Smooth Operator Silky silhouettes to set the mood
GIORGIO ARMANI
Ripple Effect
Feminine ruffle details add drama
FENDI
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The more patterns, textures and styles, the merrier
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The right exposure for every woman
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FASHION Spotlight
PINKY PROMISE
LOUIS VUITTON’S new jewelry designs secure UNICEF’S mission to help children in need on a GLOBAL SCALE
Above: LOUIS VUITTON Silver Lockit Pendant, $500. Clockwise from far left: Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier in L.A. for the #MAKEAPROMISE campaign, Selena Gomez and Miranda Kerr. Nicolas Ghesquière and Nicole Kidman. Paul Bettany and Jennifer Connelly. Mariah Carey. Angie Harmon and UNICEF’s Caryl M. Stern. Xavier Dolan and Léa Seydoux.
Just as Georges Vuitton invented an unpickable tumbler lock to safeguard precious belongings stashed in travel trunks, the French fashion house that bears his father’s name has devised a new symbol of protection for the 21st century. Louis Vuitton’s Silver Lockit, derived from the archival original, is a modern symbol of the company’s support for the United Nations Children’s Fund (UNICEF). To introduce its new partnership with the international nonprofit known for protecting children facing crises around the world, Louis Vuitton created a
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necklace and bracelet, each with a pendant lock uniting delicate chain links. The jewelry pieces, along with the social media campaign (#makeapromise), debuted on Jan. 12 at the sixth biennial UNICEF Ball held at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel in Los Angeles. There, the house’s Chairman and CEO Michael Burke and Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière assembled friends including Jennifer Connelly and Nicole Kidman for the presentation of humanitarian awards to David Beckham and C.L. Max Nikias, president of the University of Southern
California. “Louis Vuitton is inviting people to make a pinky promise with a loved one and take photographs of themselves [to post on social media] pledging to help children around the world,” said Connelly, who posed with her husband, Paul Bettany, during the ball, which included a performance by Mariah Carey. In turn, following through on its promise to the nonprofit, the fashion house has pledged to make a $200 donation to UNICEF for each bauble sold. louisvuitton.com. • ELIZABETH VARNELL
PATRICK DEMARCHELIER FOR LOUIS VUITTON
Fashion (bits)
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FASHION Jewelry Box 4.
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Fashion (jbox)
ALL NIGHT LONG
STATEMENT EARRINGS are back—just in time to complement SPRING’S shoulder-baring looks
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1. STEPHEN WEBSTER Magnipheasant pavé, $7,000, Stephen Webster, B.H. 2. CARTIER Etourdissant collection, price upon request, Cartier, B.H. 3. VHERNIER Pan di Zucchero, $7,700, Vhernier, B.H. 4. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Cascade Précieuse, price upon request, Van Cleef & Arpels, C.M. 5. BUCCELLATI pendant earrings, price upon request, Buccellati, B.H. 6. DOLCE & GABBANA Farfalle collection, $5,750, Dolce & Gabbana, B.H. 7. SILVIA FURMANOVICH Marquetry earrings, $9,800, Neiman Marcus, B.H. 8. KIMBERLY McDONALD One of a Kind drop earrings, $28,175, Kimberly McDonald, W.H. 9. MARCO BICEGO Murano collection, $3,910, Neiman Marcus, B.H.
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COURTESY OF OSCAR DE LA RENTA. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.199
OSCAR DE LA RENTA pompom tassel earrings, $690, modaoperandi.com.
Trina Turk
Bur l i ngam e
Fashi on I sl and •Newpor tBeach
Manhat t an Beach
Pal m Spr i ngs
t r i nat ur k. com
RODARTE X & OTHER STORIES sequin dress, $325, and cashmere top, $95.
DOLCE & GABBANA leather Sicily bag in “Firenze,” $2,495.
LOS ANGELES
Story Time Lovers of Los Angeles’ own Rodarte can now look to the brand for must-have staples thanks to its collaboration with Sweden-based fashion label & Other Stories. All the elements are there—a great jacket, easy dresses and sweaters— in textures such as crushed velvet, suede and mohair. $85-$395; stories.com.
SAN FRANCISCO
City SLICKERS A slice of Italy has landed in San Francisco via Dolce & Gabbana’s boutique off Union Square. The new digs shine like another opulent showpiece from the Spring 2016 collection: Velvet burgundy drapes back ebony lacquer shelves that showcase the house’s latest looks including citrus- and floral-printed sundresses and handbags bedecked in playful metropolitanthemed Capri, Rome and Florence motifs—inspired by the country’s post-World War II souvenirs and vintage travel posters. 100 Grant Ave., S.F., 415-430-0067; dolcegabbana.com.
Fashion (bits)
Perfect Pairings
MICHAEL KORS earrings, $225.
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We love the statement earrings seen on the Michael Kors runway this season— organic forms in amber resin amp up the drama factor as a mismatched pair. 360 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-7778862; michaelkors.com.
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. Below: JAEGERLECOULTRE Reverso Classic Duetto by Christian Louboutin, price upon request.
STEPPING Out Timed to coincide with the 85th anniversary of its signature Reverso collection, Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre looked to the man behind the iconic red-soled heels, Christian Louboutin Louboutin, to revamp its style. The new Reverso’s staple Art Deco lines and sleek, modern hardware feature the designer’s glamorous touch—inspired by his own whimsical namesake shoe collection—from an iridescent dial and diamond-framed clockface to a translucent strap and trademark red-hued band underneath. 9490 Brighton Way, B.H., 310-734-0525; jaeger-lecoultre.com.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D I MEGLIO, LINDSAY KINDELON AND HEATHER SEVERS. RODARTE: HARLEY WEIR. LOUBOUTIN PORTRAIT: JOHANN SAUTY. WATCH: COURTESY OF JAEGER-L E COULTRE
FASHION
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FASHION Love Letters Nearly 40 years of friendship and a mutual admiration for fine art led jewelry guru Stephen Webster and mixed-media artist Tracey Emin to finally team up. Known for her provocative drawings and signature neon light installations, Emin embraced a new canvas: 18-karat gold. The artist’s famed fauna sketches and light sculptures are reimagined in Webster’s latest high jewelry collection, I Promise to Love You. Named for a neon work Emin installed in Webster’s Beverly Hills flagship, the offerings span delicate pendants, bracelets, drop earrings, cuffs and rings. 202 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-246-9500; stephenwebster.com.
From top: STEPHEN WEBSTER X TRACEY EMIN I Promise to Love You necklace, $2,600, and ring, $1,800. A TRACEY EMIN neon light installation.
Throwback THREADS When it came time for Paul Marciano, founder and CEO of Guess, to tap a cultural heavyweight to collaborate with on the inaugural Guess Originals collection, A$AP Rocky was a natural choice; after all, the Harlem-bred hip-hop artist has built up his moniker as an industry trendsetter with his high-fashion closet. But it wasn’t just Rocky’s definitive style that sealed the deal for Marciano; it was his penchant for iconic Guess looks. In the new men’s and women’s collection, the “Wild for the Night” rapper throws it back to the ’90s—an era when Guess prints dominated the hiphop scene—with light-wash denims, large pocket details and logo-centric tees, and aptly marked GUE$$. guess.com.
CH CAROLINA HERRERA Baret bag, $1,580.
High Society
GUESS reversible denim parka, $298.
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Hit refresh for spring with CH Carolina Herrera’s new blissfully understated Baret Collection, featuring structured flapped bags in an array of hues from white to emerald green and sheathed in options like goya, nubuck and pony leather. The four jet-set-ready styles, each outfitted with two oversized straps, are fittingly named after Jeanne Baret, the first woman to circumnavigate the globe. 45 Grant Ave., S.F., 415-986-3000; carolinaherrera.com.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D I MEGLIO AND LINDSAY KINDELON. NEON ARTWORK: TRACEY EMIN. A$AP ROCKY AND GUESS: KIMI SELFRIDGE
Fashion (bits)
Bloomingdale’s Nordstrom Barneys New York DVF Louis Vuitton Michael Kors Hugo Boss Tiffany & Co. Tory Burch Karen Millen
Santa Monica Place
ArcLight Cinemas The Cheesecake Factory True Food Kitchen
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TEXT CONCIERGE 310.499.2928 SantaMonicaPlace.com
By the Sea Equal parts elegant and cool, Brunello Cucinelli’s new collection is a must-have for California coastal dressing. Inspired by the beach resorts of Années Folles (France’s version of the Roaring ’20s), neutral tones of ivory and sand are married with charcoal and black (a first for the brand’s runway collection). Look closely to discover telling Brunello details like the silver Monili chain, which elevates a nautical stripe, and “teddy bear” cotton—a new technique in knitwear that frays the edges of the threads for a more relaxed, fluffy appearance. South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., C.M., 714-957-6930; brunellocucinelli.com. A look from the BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Spring collection.
BARNEYS NEW YORK
Senior Fashion Director Tomoko Ogura shares her top spring picks for the California style-setter
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This dress is an undeniable head turner. Its bralette-topped babydoll silhouette gives it a flirty touch and the pale blue color is a standout. I love the artisanal quality of this bag. The touch of yellow will pair well with the citrus hues that are coming in for spring. Sea’s pineapple motif is a favorite. It’s a playful print and the canvas casts an effortless quality on the overall look. R/R Studio is a California brand that we’re excited to launch at Barneys. This maxi-dress is great for beachside parties and easily transitions into an elevated nighttime look. A statement earring is essential this season with all of the offthe-shoulder styles coming in. These earrings are bold and beautiful—an eclectic mix of tourmalines and diamonds. This sandal is one of my favorite styles. The suspended pompoms add a charming detail to a beautifully crafted shoe.
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Charm SCHOOL Bulgari’s latest twist on its signature B.zero1 collection is a sight to behold: Chunky rings and pendant necklaces— crafted to recall the architectural details of the Roman Colosseum—are now offered in a striking combination of rose, yellow and white gold. 401 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-858-9216; bulgari.com.
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1. PACO RABANNE dress, $7,250. 2. ALTUZARRA Ghianda Bullrope saddle bag, $2,995. 3. SEA canvas culottes, $355. 4. R/R STUDIO embroidered lace maxi-dress, $995. 5. NAK ARMSTRONG mixed-gemstone drop earrings, $25,400. 6. ÁLVARO Angela sandals, $500. All available at barneys.com.
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WRITTEN BY LINDSAY KINDELON AND HEATHER SEVERS. CUCINELLI: COURTESY OF BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
High STYLE
BULGARI B.zero1 pendant, $3,000.
SPRING
CELEBRATION
Rogers Gardens
MARCH 18 - 20 EXPERIENCE A WEEKEND OF NATURAL BEAUTY WITH ARTISTIC FRESH FLORAL DISPLAYS, SPECIAL EVENTS & SEMINARS.
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C Trunk Show S pri ng F o r war d in St yle
DOLCE & GABBANA Embellished Sicily bag in red leather, $2,895. 312 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-888-8701; South Coast Plaza, C.M., 714-668-9142.
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Miranda Medium Shoulder Bag in perforated suede, $790. South Coast Plaza, C.M., 714-557-5600; michaelkors.com.
C Trunk Show
JIMMY CHOO Taytum heels, $1,350. 240 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-860-9045; 164 Geary St., S.F., 415-391-3300.
M MISSONI Scallop striped ruffle knit dress, $695. South Coast Plaza, C.M., 714-641-3170; select Neiman Marcus stores throughout California.
LANVIN Mini Lanvin JIJI bag, $1,990. 260 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-402-0580; lanvin.com.
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
C NOW
SAATCHI ART The world’s leading online gallery, representing more than 60,000 emerging artists from 100 countries, now offers free art advisory services. Work one-on-one with your own curator to find art according to your style, space and budget. With more than 500,000 original paintings, photographs, sculptures and drawings to choose from, Saatchi Art’s expert curators will help you discover art you love. saatchiart.com/artadvisory.
SERENA & LILY Serena & Lily is a lifestyle brand that brings a creative spirit to the everyday with its inspired approach to home, design and fashion. Full of color, pattern and possibilities, its Design Shops feature signature fabrics, wallpapers, rugs and furniture while offering expert design advice. Visit us at 3457 Sacramento St., San Francisco, or at 8422 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; serenaandlily.com.
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HOKUALA KAUAI On one of the most celebrated sites on Kauai is a panorama of ocean, shoreline and verdant mountains. This is Hokuala – A Timbers Resort. With Jack Nicklaus Signature golf and a spectacular collection of new oceanfront homes called Timbers Kauai – Ocean Club & Residences, this is your opportunity to discover paradise perfected. hokualakauai.com.
ARTERIORS Arteriors is a leading provider of artisanal lighting, furniture, wall decor and decorative accessories to discerning buyers across the globe. From the understated to the unexpected, Arteriors collaborates with experienced artisans worldwide to create bold designs that add a layer of artfulness to any space. Explore the Arteriors showroom in Los Angeles or visit arteriorshome.com to find a retailer near you.
Beautycounter
PERFECT TOGETHER HIGH PERFORMANCE. SAFE INGREDIENTS.
beautycounter.com #betterbeauty
BEAUTY
Edited by JENNY MURRAY
DIOR Diorshow Brow Styler Gel, Diorshow mascara in Pro Black, 5 Couleurs Designer eye palette in Amber Design, Diorskin Forever & Ever Wear makeup base, Diorskin Forever foundation in Medium Beige, Diorskin Forever & Ever Control Invisible Loose Powder, Diorblush Sculpt in Coral Shape, Rouge Dior Brillant lip gloss in Paname.
ALIQUE FOR CHRISTIAN DIOR PARFUMS
Beauty (opener)
She’s a Natural DIOR darling NATALIE PORTMAN attests the secret to GREAT BEAUTY comes from the INSIDE OUT MARCH 2016 C 115
BEAUTY
DIOR Diorblush Sculpt in Coral Shape, $43.
With the launch of Diorskin Forever foundation from Dior, actress Natalie Portman, a brand spokeswoman for more than five years, who also has several films in the works (including her directorial debut, A Tale of Love and Darkness), shares a few of her own beauty secrets. How do you prepare for a red carpet? If I can get it, I think the best beauty routine is a good night’s sleep and plenty of water. Rested, hydrated skin always looks best! Along with sleep and water, what other tip can you offer for always looking your
best? It may sound simple, but I think doing something that you love and makes you happy helps a great deal. Whether it’s engaging in a hobby or spending time with family, I think happiness shows a great deal on your face. How can a woman discover her best beauty assets? I think you have to experiment. I find so often that the thing that makes a woman most insecure can be her greatest beauty and defining look, whether it’s gaps in your teeth, a strong feature or a beauty/birth mark. dior.com.
Snap to It Husband-and-wife design team Laura and Jason O’Dell of L.A.-based apparel brand The Odells are expanding into activewear this season—and with two things in mind: style and function. “For years I found myself constantly tucking my shirt inside my pants so that I wouldn’t reveal my stomach while doing handstands at the gym,” says Laura of her clever separates, which can be attached using subtle snaps. The pieces include cotton T-shirts, racerback tank tops and capri leggings in prints inspired by the couple’s jaunts to Big Sur and Palm Desert. $68-$168; Bucks & Does, 3906 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323-515-7385; theodellscollection.com.
Beauty (bits) LOS ANGELES
DEEP Thoughts Nobody knows the pressures of Hollywood better than former NBC executive Tal Rabinowitz, a veteran of the entertainment industry for close to 20 years. “When I was working at NBC, I learned transcendental meditation and practiced a daily 20-minute meditation with my team,” Rabinowitz says. “But when I looked for a studio or place to practice outside of the office, it didn’t exist.” So she created The Den Meditation studio, located near L.A.’s Miracle Mile. Organic surfaces and Moroccan textiles combine to create a warm and calming environment, where you’ll find patrons lingering after guided meditation classes with a cup of tea or quietly reading scripts. “I don’t want to pretend that the real world doesn’t exist,” Rabinowitz says. “There is Wi-Fi, places to sit and work, and coffee and tea to drink. If you can learn to integrate meditation into your busy life, you will be a much more balanced person.” 360 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323-424-3444; denmeditation.com.
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THE ODELLS Cactus Midi bra, $72, and short, $88.
OUAI wave spray, $26.
Mane GOALS She has tended to the tresses of the KardashianJenner clan and Lily Aldridge. Now, Hollywood hair guru Jen Atkin unveils Ouai, her first collection of products (including shampoos, a texture mist, a finishing creme and a treatment oil) that repairs hair cuticles, replenishes moisture and shields against environmental stresses with ingredients like jasmine and hibiscus extracts. “I’ve traveled around the globe for years and the two things that every woman has in common are a lack of time and unhealthy hair,” says Atkin, who has also developed supplements to address concerns such as thinning and dry strands. $24-$32, sephora.com.
WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY, HEATHER JOHN FOGARTY AND JENNY MURRAY. INTERIOR: THE DEN MEDITATION. THE ODELLS: JASON O’DELL. OUAI: MIKE ROSENTHAL
SILVER LAKE
CLEANSE + REVIVE
Aja Malibu
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BEAUTY LOS ANGELES
Strokes of Genius Behind the wheel of a vintage 1974 VW bus, Chanel’s beloved celebrity manicurist Ashlie Johnson is introducing her unique mobile nail lounge concept, Jaunt Beauty Co. After 10-plus years working on set for Hollywood’s biggest names (from Sophia Loren to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley), the L.A.-based nail artist is vamping up the mani-pedi house call. Available to book for events, the salonon-wheels decamps with beachy lounge chairs and coastal decor channeling ’70s California surf culture. jauntbeautyco.com.
BRENTWOOD
When Frédéric Fekkai-trained stylist Haleh Lekkos set out to open her salon Base Color Bar in Brentwood, her aim was to provide top-tier service without the steep price tags: “Women who have high-maintenance hair still resent paying hundreds of dollars every three weeks,” says the S.F. native, who developed a menu ranging from women’s base color ($49, or $59 for the ammonia-free option) to a power-shot treatment ($25) and a blowout ($35). 11677 San Vicente Blvd., Ste. 215, L.A., 310-820-0505; basecolorbar.com.
Beauty (bits)
FIONA STILES Luminous Finish foundation, $30, and Radiant Aqua Eye Veil in Hyperion, $22.
Tricks of the Trade “Women still tell me that they’re intimidated by makeup,” says L.A.-based celebrity makeup artist Fiona Stiles (clients include Jessica Alba and Jessica Chastain), who debuts her eponymous line with Ulta Beauty for spring. “I wanted to create products that aren’t daunting to use and give you really flawless results.” Highlights include the Topanga eye-shadow quad and the Bronzing Sun Veil powder. $12-$30, ulta.com.
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TO Your HEALTH File under refreshing scientific news (next to those pro-caffeine and wine studies): The Lucky Years (Simon & Schuster, $27), the latest book by renowned physician David B. Agus, M.D., offers myriad reasons to rejoice. Here, the author of the groundbreaking bestseller The End of Illness outlines the advancements that will help people live longer, better lives: from the reversal of heart disease to leveraging a patient’s immune system to melt away cancer. “For the first time in my career, I have real hope that we are and will continue to make strides against deadly disease,” he explains. “Put simply, people living in the 21st century are the most fortunate of all previous generations.”
WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY, DANIELLE D I MEGLIO AND MELISSA GOLDSTEIN. JAUNT BEAUTY: MAVERA FADEAI. LEKKOS: BENJAMIN BENOIT
Tress CODE
A dynamic collection of world renowned designer boutiques and inviting restaurants
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New Edition
The third annual FOG Design+Art fair did not disappoint the throngs of supporters who came to view the contemporary works of the 43 curated exhibitors. A show standout, Ray Azoulay’s L.A.based Obsolete/Slete Gallery debuted the perfectly juxtaposed works of Berlin-based painter Goran Djurovic and London design duo Hannah Plumb and James Russell of James Plumb (both shown here). “California design is often about breaking the rules and creating a new vocabulary; we believe their work does exactly that,” says Azoulay. Benefiting the S.F. Museum of Modern Art, the fair ran in mid-January at the city’s Fort Mason Center. “The idea of bringing together contemporary art and design in a single event is so perfectly suited for San Francisco,” says FOG Forum Chair Douglas Durkin. “We live in a wonderfully diverse city in a region of incredible innovations, so FOG is really presenting a platform that matches the curious and forward-thinking qualities of the residents of the Bay Area.” fogfair.com. •
OBSOLETE: JUSTIN COATES
Design (opener)
Written and edited by ANDREA STANFORD
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HARLOW & GREY launches partyware with their Modern Camp and Goddess collections (above, right), respectively. Individual pieces, from $5-$30, and full party kits, $50.
SILVER LAKE
Moody BLUES When Silver Lake-based designer and maker Cathy Callahan isn’t dreaming up one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces, she’s crafting a version of her own blue heaven in linen. Callahan’s newest goods involve Lithuanian textiles transformed with nontoxic indigo dyes in Los Angeles, and then adapted into gorgeous pillows and table runners. “I want you to have these for 20 years,” she says, adding that, much like the treasured table linens she personally owns, part of the allure is that they change over time. That is, after all, in her words, “the beauty of the indigo.” cathycallahan.com.
Fiesta Forever Cousins Jeanne Chan, founder and lifestyle blogger of Shop Sweet Things, and event designer Gloria Wong Tritasavit consider casual entertaining an art form. “We didn’t grow up with much, but our childhoods were filled with celebrations, and we naturally became party enthusiasts,” says Chan. The S.F.-based aesthetes translated their good taste into a line of beautiful, modern, disposable partyware, dubbed Harlow & Grey, as an alternative to costly rentals for the everyday host with stylish ambitions. The graphic inaugural Goddess collection, which launches March 8, features of-the-moment design trends like marbled patterns and gilded accents on coordinating paper plates, cups, table covers and more. harlowandgrey.com.
Design (turn)
SAN FRANCISCO
Office SPACE “I designed this collection with my fond memory of John and Elinor McGuire and their unique, unrelenting vision of a quiet and elegant California past,” says S.F.-based Steven Volpe about his collaboration with McGuire Furniture. After a successful 2014 debut, Volpe returns this spring with complementary additions, including the Steven Volpe Dimity Desk (from $5,395), carved from solid mahogany with a nod to midcentury French design. mcguirefurniture.com.
The C List BIANCA SOTELO @afabchallenge
An East Bay native, Bianca Sotelo is always first in line for the latest boutique or restaurant opening in the everchanging neighborhoods surrounding her Alameda home. Here, the interior and photo stylist and producer shares her favorite local haunts: • Trouble Coffee With its white walls, fixtures and floors, this cafe is a blank slate for clearing your mind and starting your day. They serve the best thick-cut toasts and iced soy lattes too. troublecoffeeco.com. • Alchemy Bottle Shop Selling a curated mix of small-batch and often locally crafted spirits, this is my go-to shop when I want to add a swoon-worthy bottle to my home bar. alchemybottleshop.com. • Neighbor Tucked away in this moody boutique is the best mixture of made-inthe-USA accessories and the latest and funkiest home decor and curiosities. You’re certain to stumble across a new favorite artisan here. iloveneighbor.com. • Tamarindo The most sophisticated space to enjoy my favorite food: Mexican! A floor-to-ceiling brick bar and beautifully woven vintage textiles invite you to stay for a few margaritas and flavorful ceviche. tamarindoantojeria.com.
WRITTEN BY SCHUYLER BAILEY, JESSICA RITZ AND ANDREA STANFORD. PARTY ACCESSORIES: COURTESY OF HARLOW & GREY. SOTELO: ASHLEY BATZ. DESK AND INTERIOR: COURTESY OF McGUIRE
SAN FRANCISCO
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DESIGN Trend
MAD forDesign MOSAICS (bits)
The LATEST TILES boast sophisticated colorways, MODERN patterns and ELEGANT finishes
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EDITED BY ANDREA STANFORD. TOP CENTER: ARTISTIC TILE. BOTTOM LEFT: GREG ZABILSKI PHOTOGRAPHY. BOTTOM RIGHT: COURTESY OF ANN SACKS
Clockwise from top: WALKER ZANGER Houndstooth, walkerzanger.com. JOHN WHITMARSH RECONSTRUCTION STUDIES FOR CLÉ Board Form, cletile.com. ANN SACKS Union Arabian, annsacks.com. CLÉ Classic Diamond Twist, cletile.com. COMMUNE FOR EXQUISITE SURFACES Stockholm Zebra, xsurfaces.com. PAUL SCHATZ FOR NEW RAVENNA Almerita, newravenna.com. ARTISTIC TILE Castello Noir, artistictile.com.
PA S A D E N A O N L O C AT I O N I N M A R FA , T X
Brown Jordan
1945
SOUTH COAST COLLECTION 3323 Hyland Ave. Costa Mesa, CA | 949.760.6900
SLUG Bits BELVEDERE
Above: HIGH CAMP SUPPLY “Untied Chic” long stem cuttings. Right: Deluxe Vine and Bloom box, $189.
For Belvedere-based Margaret Wells and Susan Hanson, a friendship born of neighborly proximity led to a flower delivery revolution. Launched a little over a year ago, High Camp Supply sources cut-to-order gardenias from farms throughout California, for elegantly packaged shipments of the evocative blooms. Inspired by the pair’s mutual nostalgia for the flower (in Hanson’s case, a reminder of living in Hawaii; for Wells, a recollection of her grandmother, who made the bloom a signature of her home), it is, in Wells’ words, “about the experience: opening the box and having this incredible punch of fragrance.” Since their first delivery—to one of S.F.’s most high-profile socialites—they have popped up on Oprah’s “Favorite Things” and in the homes of Hollywood royalty. They recently expanded their offerings to mixed cuttings, such as tuberose and Casablanca lilies, presented in lacquered, Old Hollywood-reminiscent boxes. “It’s much more lovely to personalize flowers in your own vases and vessels,” explains Hanson. “It should speak to your style and make a memory in your home.” highcampsupply.com.
Design (bits) TURNING IT Up SAN FRANCISCO
San Francisco ceramist Britt Gerhard’s creative journey quickly went from the virtual to the tactile. While working as a graphic and web designer, the Marin County native “was getting tapped out being so glued to a screen and pushing pixels,” she says. So, after work, she put in countless hours at a community pottery studio, recovering the muscle memory from when she made pottery as a kid, and freshly honing her skills. She then launched Gerhard Ceramics, her line of handmade, monochromatic vases, last year, and starting this month, her Skala Collection will be carried at Gump’s. Gerhard likens the elegant, modern style and neutral color palette to “a blank canvas, and the beginning of a conversation. You’ve done part of it, but it’s not over.” Gump’s, 135 Post St., S.F., 415-982-1616; gerhardceramics.com.
LOS ANGELES
Proof of Concept “We don’t consider ourselves designers, but collectors of ideas,” says Ji Shin, one half of the creative duo—with her husband, Gabriel Abraham—behind Atelier de Troupe. The couple, whose geometric, Bauhaus-indebted lighting and streamlined furniture graces The Apartment for The Line and the Ace Hotel in L.A., recently unveiled a new 4,500-square-foot West Adams studio and showroom, whose interiors were a collaboration with Uruguayan designers Estudio Persona. Up next: a David Lynch-inspired surrealist lamp collection with Milan-based design agency Studiopepe. By appointment; 323-870-5303; atelierdetroupe.com.
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WRITTEN BY MELISSA GOLDSTEIN, JESSICA RITZ. HIGH CAMP SUPPLY (2): SEAN DANA PHOTOGRAPHY. ATELIER DE TROUPE: JI SHIN. GERHARD CERAMICS (3): KIMBERLEY HASSELBRINK
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The New Home Company
Built for Life. Everything and everyone you love together in one place. NWHM.com
C EVENTS
Promotion
Jo Malone London
Julia Sorkin and C Magazine hosted friends at Sorkin’s residence in Beverly Hills for a holiday soiree. Guests like Elizabeth Chambers, Kendall Conrad, Alexandra Dwek, George Kotsiopoulos, Monique Lhuillier and Gregory Parkinson toasted the season while taking in the aromatic scent of pine and eucalyptus candles by Jo Malone London.
Konstantin Kakanias, Brooke Davenport
Julia Sorkin, Liane Weintraub, Sally Perrin
Melanie Bromley, Susan Campos
Erica and Lior Zohar
Mike Johnson, Leslie Hunt Johnson, Ray Azoulay
John McIlwee, Jim Shay, Joshua Roth
C Events 1 Ryan White and Warren Cohn
Patrick Herning, Sarrah Candee
Isaia
C Magazine partnered with tastemakers Joshua Roth and John McIlwee for a cocktail party inspired by Isaia’s passion for art and design at the Italian menswear brand’s boutique in Beverly Hills. Guests browsed the suitmaker’s latest designs while exploring the label’s made-to-measure tailor services and customizable options. Sonya Roth
Firooz Zahedi, Darian Zahedi
ISAIA: STEFANIE KEENAN. HOLIDAY SOIREE: ZACH LIPP
Lauren Gores Ireland, Gelila Puck
Larry Cripe, Marc Masterson
Denise and Keith Banning
Gabrielle Jordan, Barbara Cline
Yvonne and Damien Jordan
Jennifer Segerstrom, Bette Aitken, Kathryn Cenci
Galerie Wines
David Yurman
C Magazine joined South Coast Repertory’s Yvonne and Damien Jordan to host an in-store night of shopping at David Yurman’s South Coast Plaza boutique. The proceeds from the night’s festivities benefited SCR’s award-winning education and outreach programs. Jewelry lovers and loyal customers sipped on glasses of Galerie Wines Naissance Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc and tried on the selection of baubles, with a lucky attendee taking home a $500 David Yurman gift card.
C Events 2
SERENA & LILY: JOHN SCIULLI. DAVID YURMAN: ANGELA WEISS
Jeff Richardson and Gray Malin
Mat Sanders, Lulu Powers
Serena & Lily
C Magazine Design + Interiors Editor Andrea Stanford hosted the grand opening of Serena & Lily’s Melrose Avenue showroom. The Sausalito-based brand’s co-founders, Serena Dugan and Lily Kanter, welcomed design enthusiasts including Gray Malin, Lulu Powers and Wendy Haworth for cocktails at the new emporium. The rotating art displays, elegant home wares and one-of-a-kind exterior facade of the new space served as a high-style backdrop for the celebration.
Lily Kanter, Andrea Stanford, Serena Dugan
Max Humphrey, Betsy Burnham
Wendy Haworth, Molly Luetkemeyer
B E L M O N D E L E N C A N T O , S A N TA B A R B A R A
THE ROMANCE OF RUNNING AWAY NEVER GROWS OLD. AND IT’S SO MUCH MORE FUN WITH SOMEONE BY YOUR SIDE. SO YOU MAKE A PLAN. YOU DREAM OF A HIDEAWAY HIGH OVER THE OCEAN, WHERE YOU CAN LINGER OVER LUNCH ON THE TERRACE THEN WANDER IN A FRAGRANT GARDEN. AT NIGHT YOU SLIP QUIETLY INTO THE POOL TO FLOAT UNDER A BLANKET
Belmond El Encanto
OF STARS. THEN WRAP YOURSELVES IN EACH OTHER’S ARMS IN FRONT OF THE FIREPLACE. YOU LEAN CLOSE AND WHISPER THAT RUNNING AWAY WAS A VERY GOOD IDEA. AND STAYING ANOTHER NIGHT WOULD BE EVEN BETTER.
HOTELS | TRAINS | RIVER CRUISES | JOURNEYS | BELMOND.COM
© 2016 Belmond Management Ltd. Belmond is a registered trademark.
Credit TK CAPE SEAFOOD AND PROVISIONS’ New Zealand Tai snapper.
MENU Menu (opener)
Net Gain Written and edited by
PORNCHAI MITTONGTARE
LESLEY McKENZIE
“By making sustainable choices for the restaurants and the fish market, we are in a small way helping to focus the public’s opinion on an issue that affects us all,” says Michael Cimarusti, co-owner and executive chef of Los Angeles’ illustrious Providence and the New England clam shack-inspired Connie & Ted’s. “We have grossly overexploited our wild fisheries in the last century. It is no longer an option to ignore this fact.” Taking matters into his own hands, the longtime fisherman is charting new waters as a partner in Cape Seafood and Provisions, a sustainable fish shop and grocery store. Located in the for-
mer home of beloved butchers Lindy & Grundy, Cimarusti’s latest venture brings many of the distinct seafood and gourmet offerings found in his culinary ventures into a retail setting, from wild loup de mer, line-caught on the Atlantic coast of France, to seasonal truffles, and a weekly rotating selection of fish primarily sourced from California. “If you don’t see what you want when you walk in, just ask. In most cases, we will have the ingredients available in 48 hours. Special orders do not upset us,” Cimarusti says. Consider us already hooked. 801 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323-5562525; cape-seafood.com. •
MARCH 2016 C 131
MENU
Clockwise from left: THE BUTCHER’S DAUGHTER. THE CANNIBAL’s charcuterie platter. The acai bowl from The Butcher’s Daughter.
POINT REYES STATION
Say CHEESE VENICE + CULVER CITY
Coast to Coast Two New York restaurant staples have put down West Coast roots. The Butcher’s Daughter (1205 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310981-3004; thebutchersdaughter.com) has set up shop in Venice, bringing its juice and espresso bars, lifestyle market and vegetarian dishes to a bohemian indoor/outdoor setting on Abbot Kinney. “It’s a healthy, happy place where people can come for anything, from the basic avocado toast to a nice glass of Macon Fuisse,” says Heather Tierney, founder and creative director. Meanwhile, carnivorous cravings are now being satisfied at East Coast export The Cannibal (8850 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310-8382783; cannibalnyc.com)—a beer-and-meat concept at Culver City’s new Platform complex (see p.76) turning out everything from housemade sausages and pâtés to whole animal feasts.
Menu (turn) Wonder Year NAPA VALLEY
Inside THE WHEELHOUSE. Below: Founders Tami and Chase Spenst.
Stock up on vintages from 2012, one of Napa Valley winemakers’ best years on record. Our picks? Amici Cellars’ newly released, single-vineyard Cabernets from the area’s most illustrious appellations, including Spring Mountain District and Oakville. amicicellars.com.
DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES AMICI Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon, $125.
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Geared Up Coffee, bikes and a full-service repair department roll into L.A.’s Arts District this spring with The Wheelhouse. For husbandand-wife owners Tami and Chase Spenst, the idea surfaced when they first moved to L.A. and explored the city together by bike. “Going places became an adventure,” says Tami, whose design firm, Pluck, dreamt up the indoor/outdoor space. The cafe-cumbike shop offers fresh brews from beloved Olympia Coffee and pastries from Superba Food + Bread. 1375 E. 6th St., No. 6, L.A., 213-553-8441; thewheelhouse.bike.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D I MEGLIO AND LESLEY M C KENZIE. BUTCHER’S DAUGHTER INTERIOR AND FOOD (BELOW): WHITNEY LEIGH MORRIS. MEAT PLATTER: KEVIN O’LEARY. CHEESE: SARA REMINGTON. WHEELHOUSE INTERIOR: SKANDIA SHAFER. FOUNDER’S PORTRAIT: JENNIFER YOUNG
For some, the arrival of spring is synonymous with warm weather; for others, it’s marked by the debut of Cowgirl Creamery’s award-winning St. Pat cheese (whose release is timed to the Irish celebration of the same name). Crafted using the Point Reyes cheesemakers’ signature Mt. Tam recipe (swapping organic Jersey cow milk in lieu of cream), the semisoft bloomy rind cheese is encased in nettle leaves foraged from Bolinas’ Fresh Run Farm. cowgirlcreamery.com.
Empty Vase
Clockwise from left: OTIUM’s Timothy Hollingsworth. Inside Palo Alto newcomer BIRD DOG. Spring chopped salad from CROSSROADS KITCHEN.
SPRING Fling Three chefs dish on their go-to ingredients of the season: • Tal Ronnen, Crossroads Kitchen “English or snap peas are the pearls of the spring harvest. They impart an amazingly sweet flavor and the perfect crisp texture to any dish, including in our spring chopped salad with whole-grain mustard vinaigrette.” 8284 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323-782-9245; crossroadskitchen.com. • Timothy Hollingsworth, Otium “The kishu tangerines from Churchill Orchards in Ojai are one of those things that you can sit down and have 15 of—they’re just so good. We smoke them and use them in a dish with cured amberjack, yuzu, crispy chicharrón and a honey tangerine broth.” 222 S. Hope St., L.A., 213-935-8500; otiumla.com. • Robbie Wilson, Bird Dog “The versatility of seaweed and its ability to create umami are paramount to my cooking. This spring we will have a beet salad on the menu where we burn seaweed over oak, then grind the charred seaweed to a powder and season each beet completely. It gives the beets a black coating that makes their colors more vibrant and gives the salad an additional layer of complexity.” 420 Ramona St., Palo Alto, 650-656-8180; birddogpa.com.
C Bookshelf A trio of tomes to inspire your culinary endeavors, in the kitchen and beyond
HOME COOKED: ESSENTIAL RECIPES FOR A NEW WAY TO EAT by Anya Fernald and Jessica Battilana (Ten Speed Press, $35).
Menu (bits)
LOS GATOS
Going South Inspired by the New Orleans neighborhood of the same name, The Bywater is Manresa chef David Kinch’s ode to the city in which he grew up. The first casual eatery from the Michelin-starred toque (alongside chef de cuisine David Morgan), The Bywater features New Orleans and French classics reinterpreted with Northern California ingredients, from red snapper courtbouillon with andouille and shrimp to fried chicken with butter beans and, for a sweet finish, affogato and beignets. 532 N. Santa Cruz Ave., Los Gatos, 408-560-9639; thebywaterca.com.
THE SOUP CLEANSE by Angela Blatteis and Vivienne Vella (Grand Central Publishing, $22).
THE TIMBER PRESS GUIDE TO VEGETABLE GARDENING IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA by Geri Galian Miller (Timber Press, $20).
HOLLINGSWORTH: SIERRA PRESCOTT. BIRD DOG: ERIC WOLFINGER PHOTOGRAPHY. SALAD: LISA ROMEREIN. BYWATER: JOYCE OUDKERK POOL
MENU
Marin CF / Rogers Gardens
Lowell Hotel
A hammock among the lush vegetation at Trancoso’s UXUA CASA HOTEL & SPA.
FERNANDO LOMBARDI
Travel (opener)
Written and edited by JENNY MURRAY
Southern Exposure As the world GEARS UP for the Summer Olympics in BRAZIL, boutique owner DESIREE KOHAN illuminates a couple of corners worth exploring MARCH 2016 C 137
Desiree Kohan, the founder and fashion plate behind Los Angeles boutique Des Kohan, fell in love with Brazil while on vacation in 2000—“I stayed on a houseboat in the Amazon and explored all of Bahia and its islands,” she says. “I was hooked then the same way I’m hooked now.” She and her Brazilian husband and 2-yearold son now split their time between Los Angeles and São Paulo. She points to Trancoso’s pristine beaches and luxe bohemian properties as not to be missed: “It’s the quintessential gypset crowd,” says Kohan of the former fishing village (one of the oldest in Brazil), where colorful homes have been converted to restaurants and bluff-side cafes overlook the ocean. However, it’s ecotourism destination Alto Paraíso de Goáis (in west-central Brazil) that is her top mustsee. “It’s called High Paradise, with over 30 waterfalls and mineral baths. It has the most concentrated area of crystals anywhere in the world,” says Kohan, who offers a bullet-pointed itinerary for the “otherworldly” locale below. “It’s the most desired spot amongst São Paolo designers, writers and artists. I wish I could transport you…it is truly a gem in the rough.”
ALTO PARAÍSO DE GOÁIS STAY Pousada Maya The most charming boutique hotel, usually booked monthly by overstressed São Paolo Paulistas, is owned by my husband’s childhood friend.
WATERFALL: LUCAS RAMALHO/WIKIMEDIA COMMONS. SURFERS: CLIO LUCONI. HORSE, FRUIT, BEDROOM AND AERIAL VIEW: FERNANDO LOMBARDI
TRAVEL
Travel (turn) Clockwise from top left: The waterfalls in CHAPADA DOS VEADEIROS NATIONAL PARK. In Trancoso, horseback is the preferred method of transportation. Surfers at PRAIA DE ITAQUENA. Bedroom of CASA QUINTAL DA GLORIA in Trancoso. Trancoso’s eight beaches span 15 miles. Local produce.
Ritz Carlton
GOTA KALIANDRA in Alto Paraíso de Goáis is a space for music and meditation.
paraiso.blogspot.com. • Jambalaya Espaço Gastronômico My go-to dinner spot. There are no signs so it took us a couple of days to find it. It is hidden on a private road lined by fire pits and features live music in the most romantic outdoor setting. It is a Northern Brazilian gastronomic experience where all regional dishes are masterful. • Poço Encantado A waterfall known for its long sand beach, this natural attraction has a no-name restaurant overlooking the falls. Preorder your home-cooked meal before going for a swim in the falls. cachoeirapoco encantado.tur.br. • La Vita e Bella No Paraiso The chef in this Italian restaurant serves up dishes with regional nuts and grains. There’s also outdoor seating with family-style tables. •
The POST RANCH INN’s cliffside pool and crisp new Matteo bedding (right).
SERAPIAN MILANO bespoke small trolley in alligator, from $48,070.
BEVERLY HILLS
On a Roll With a new Beverly Hills boutique (its first U.S. outpost), Serapian Milano is offering bespoke bags and luggage—harking back to the label’s 1960s call to fame, customizing goods for Audrey Hepburn and Frank Sinatra. Select from exotic skins like ostrich and alligator for an Italian-crafted bag ready in seven to eight weeks. “It’s the ultimate luxury,” says Monica Dastin, executive director of Serapian USA. 204 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-247-8881; us.serapian.com.
Travel (bits) BIG SUR
PILLOW TALK Big Sur’s tony Post Ranch Inn is making it harder to get out of bed in the morning. The resort is debuting luxe new organic all-white bed linens from Matteo—a departure from their signature blue—that are handcrafted from chemical- and dye-free cottons and patterned, cut, sewn and dried in-house at the L.A.-based brand’s atelier. 47900 Hwy. 1, Big Sur, 831-667-2200; postranchinn.com.
BERKELEY
Landmark MOMENT When Claremont Club & Spa was built in 1915, the hotel quickly became an iconic Northern California destination thanks to its unparalleled service and sweeping views of San Francisco Bay. Fresh off the heels of a sweeping restoration, the 276-room property (and newest member of the Fairmont portfolio) continues to wow, bolstered by the announcement of a new Dominique Crenn-helmed brasserie. 41 Tunnel Rd., Berkeley, 510-843-3000; fairmont.com.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D I MEGLIO AND LESLEY M C KENZIE. GOTA KALIANDRA: DESIREE KOHAN. POST RANCH INN: KODIAK GREENWOOD
She really knows how to pamper you while creating the perfect mix of Brazilian wild savannah and local amenities. pousada maya.com.br. • Casa da Lua Pousada This boutique hotel is nestled in a tropical garden among toucans and monkeys. Outdoor fire pits and fountains surround the entire perimeter. casadaluapousada.com.br. • Private Home Rentals There are many private beautiful homes and estates nestled in the tropical jungle. We provide these contacts upon request through our Des Kohan concierge service. info@des kohan.com. DINE Cravo e Canela This is a great organic and vegan brunch, lunch and juice spot with cuisine that is locally grown. Indoor and outdoor seating overlooks luscious gardens. cravoecanelaalto
Julianne
SF Symphony / Norton Simon Luxury and Convenience. Perfectly Harmonized. The San Francisco Symphony partners with Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco, and Quintessentially, to deliver you an impeccably curated evening. Premium box seats at the San Francisco Symphony. Dinner at an acclaimed local restaurant. Private car service, and more. You can even transform the evening into a
getaway with a suite at Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco. Best of all, we take care of everything. Whether it’s for you and someone special, or the ultimate holiday gift, just choose your preferred evening and level of service. The LUX team will handle the rest. Luxury and convenience are rarely so harmonious.
sfsymphony.org/LUX 415.503.5467
TEAMLAB’s Crystal Universe is composed of thousands of LEDs and creates the illusion of infinite light particles.
COURTESY OF PACE GALLERY AND TEAMLAB
Culture (opener)
Future Perfect Japan’s teamLab inaugurates the new Pace Art + Technology program in Menlo Park with a DISTINCTIVE BLEND of interactive art Written and edited by ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER and VIRTUAL EXPERIENCE MARCH 2016 C 143
Though virtual reality has been a buzzy topic of conversation among the tech cognoscenti for some time, this year may well be the one in which it finally penetrates the zeitgeist—with games, films and consoles making their way into the mainstream. At forward-looking contemporary art gallery Pace in Menlo Park, a pioneering new exhibition is anticipating that moment. “The old rules no longer apply,” says gallery director Elizabeth Sullivan of the choice of programming. “We’re bringing it to another level, working with different types of artists who work in even bigger spaces.” Situated in a former Tesla dealership, Pace’s nearly 20,000 square feet of gallery
space is being taken over by immersive experiences designed by the 400-person Japanese art collective known as teamLab, a group of infotechnologists—artists, designers, programmers, filmmakers and engineers who work in concert. Playing with environments that blend the traditional brushwork and flat perspective of Japanese painting with futuristic computer animation for a mirror-image effect, teamLab also seeks to manipulate the way the human eye sees, and thrusts the viewer into giant domains, augmented by tactile elements and custom music. Walk through a blossom-bedecked room in Flowers and People Cannot be Controlled but Live
Together and a computer program will power the illusion of your feet crushing petal to ash. In Sketch Aquarium, children can draw sea creatures and project their sketches onto a virtual underwater landscape. More than half a million visitors flocked to teamLab’s show in Tokyo last year and Sullivan expects a similarly mega turnout to see the 20 large-scale pieces, two of which are making their North American debut. “It’s different from walking through a museum,” she says, “when it’s of this magnitude.” “teamLab: Living Digital Space and Future Parks,” on view through July 1. 300 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 650462-1368; pacegallery.com. •
Culture (turn)
Ground BREAKING
Clockwise from far left: A still from YURI ANCARANI’s marble quarry-set short doc Il Capo, on view for BAMPFA’s opening exhibition. LAWRENCE RINDER. A view of the new stainlesssteel facade on Oxford Street. A 1920 photograph of a snowflake by WILSON BENTLEY, also on view for the show. Bentley photographed more than 5,000 individual snowflakes. “He was the first person to realize that no two are alike,” says Rinder.
BAMPFA’S new home hits all the right notes Lawrence Rinder, director of the University of California, Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive (BAMPFA) does not shy away from pursuits of Odyssean proportions. Nine years ago the university learned that they needed to abandon its seismically unfit Mario Campi structure. Just short of a decade later, Rinder is finally celebrating the opening of the new Diller Scofidio + Renfro-designed BAMPFA building on Oxford Street downtown, a moment that signals a sea change and a major opportunity. The architecture firm was selected because of its experience building the elegant, freestanding Institute of Contemporary Art Boston, as well as its work on New York City’s High Line, where an existing urban structure was trans-
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formed into a beloved, new urban amenity. Now, the former Art Deco-style UC printing plant is integrated with a dramatic stainless-steel-clad structure featuring 25,000 square feet of exhibition space, two film theaters, a public film library, art lab and a new encyclopedic exhibition highlighting the play between architecture and life. Rinder sat down with C to explain what all the fuss is about. bampfa.org. The new building has great curb appeal, paired with dynamic, light-filled exhibition spaces. Can you talk us through its unusual elements? The style of the original printing press is late Deco, which is also known as Deco-Modern. DS + R brought that aesthetic sensibility into the space where
the printing presses were. They’ve basically just cleaned up the space, and all of the structural steel is the original steel. Then they just built this beautiful perimeter of wall so it’s like you dropped a gallery into this existing structure. The internal walls are all temporary; we can build walls anywhere in here and divide it however we want, depending on the exhibition. Continued on p.198
MARBLE QUARRY: STILL FROM IL CAPO, 2010; 35MM; COLOR, SOUND; 15 MIN.; COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND ZERO…, MILAN. RINDER: STEFAN KOCEV. BERKELEY MUSEUM: IWAN BAAN. COURTESY OF DILLER SCOFIDIO + RENFRO; EHDD; AND UC BERKELEY ART MUSEUM AND PACIFIC FILM ARCHIVE (BAMPFA). WILSON BENTLEY: UNTITLED (SNOWFLAKE #15), CA. 1920; GELATIN SILVER PRINT; 2½ × 3 IN.; SANTA BARBARA MUSEUM OF ART, MUSEUM PURCHASE WITH FUNDS PROVIDED BY JGS, INC.
CULTURE
Marcel Duchamp (French, 1887–1968), L.H.O.O.Q. or La Joconde, 1964 (replica of 1919 original), Colored reproduction, heightened with pencil and white gouache, Edition of 38 (35 numbered + 3 not numbered), No. 6 (Arturo Schwartz edition), Norton Simon Museum, Gift of Virginia Dwan, ©Succession Marcel Duchamp/ADAGP, Paris/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York 2016
Norton Simon
march 4–August 29, 2016 Norton Simon Museum www.nortonsimon.org
CULTURE
ANDY WARHOL screen print on wallpaper, Cow, 1966.
PASADENA
The interplay between the seemingly disparate movements of Conceptual Art and Pop Art gets a re-airing at the Norton Simon Museum in Pasadena with “Duchamp to Pop.” Sourcing deep in the historical archives, the museum resurfaces Duchamp’s first major museum retrospective from 1963, as well as noted curator Walter Hopp’s groundbreaking 1962 “New Painting of Common Objects” exhibition (one of the first to elevate Pop Art to the museum sphere). Objects from the original Duchamp exhibition are placed alongside masterworks from Dine, Ruscha and others. On view March 4-Aug. 29; 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626-449-6840; nortonsimon.org.
DAYBREAKER Onesie Winter Warmup party in New York City.
SACRAMENTO
TOP of the POP MARCEL DUCHAMP lithograph, Untitled (Hand and Cigar), 1967.
Culture (bits)
RISE AND SHINE Is it an exercise class? A sober rave? An early-morning dance party that wraps at 8:30 a.m.? Mindfulness set to music? Daybreaker is kind of all of the above. At this pop-up happening that bounces across the globe from São Paolo to San Francisco to New York to Paris and back, members of the “community” show up before dawn for yoga and poetry, followed by DJ and live band-led grooves, with attendees clad in wild costume and imbibing locally sourced kombucha, chiaseed drinks and coffee. Founders Matthew Brimer and Radha Agrawal call it an opportunity for mischief and self-expression; others compare it to Burning Man without the drugs, bikes and dust. dybrkr.com.
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“I’ve never met a person I couldn’t call a beauty,” Andy Warhol once said. The provocateur’s fascination with famous faces permeates “Andy Warhol: Portraits,” now at Sacramento’s Crocker Museum. Exploring the artist’s lifelong interest in portraiture, the exhibition includes his famous silkscreen works, self portraits, fashion sketches and photo-booth film strips. Expect a constellation of celebrities and socialites. On view March 13-June 19; 216 O St., Sacramento, 916-8087000; crockerartmuseum.org.
French LESSONS Supermodel and French icon Inès de la Fressange reveals her personal picks for a jaunt through the City of Light in Parisian Chic City Guide. From Le Petit Souk in SaintGermain-des-Prés for retro baby gifts, to Pep’s in the Marais for a perky parasol, this petite handbook offers a dizzying array of shopping and dining delights (Flammarion, $20).
DUCHAMP:: UNTITLED (HAND AND CIGAR), 1967 MARCEL DUCHAMP (FRENCH, 1887-1968) LITHOGRAPH, EDITION OF 100, NO. 90 27¼ × 19 IN. (69.2 × 48.3 CM) NORTON SIMON MUSEUM, GIFT OF MR. JOHN COPLANS IN HOMAGE TO MR. WALTER HOPPS © SUCCESSION MARCEL DUCHAMP/ADAGP, PARIS/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK 2016. WARHOL: COW, 1976. SCREEN PRINT ON WALLPAPER. 45⅛ × 29½ IN. THE ANDY WARHOL MUSEUM, PITTSBURGH, IA1994.7. © 2015 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS, INC./ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK. PORTRAIT: ALESSANDRA D’URSO/FLAMMARION. DAYBREAKER: LOREN WOHL
Root of the Matter
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Take a peek at our fresh new look. www.PerfectingOurMasterpiece.com Inspired by Grant Wood’s famous painting ‘American Gothic’
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Feature (opener)
KIRSTEN DUNST, who has been in the Hollywood spotlight for decades, seems to have found HER COMFORT ZONE. The anti-diva OPENS UP about her newfound TV stardom, the art of relaxation and living the CALIFORNIA DREAM
Feature (tbd)
ALEXEI HAY MARSHALL HEYMAN Styling by DEBORAH AFSHANI Photography by Written by
CÉLINE dress, $5,300. Denim jacket, similar styles at GUESS. Opposite: DOLCE & GABBANA bustier, $795, and briefs, $295. VERSACE boots, price upon request. EDDIE BORGO earrings, $110. Vintage sweater, stylist’s own.
Feature (tbd)
PRADA dress, $6,790.
Feature (tbd)
C 154 MARCH 2016
Feature (tbd)
MAIYET dress, $795. Vintage BALENCIAGA jacket, stylist’s own. CARTIER ring, $4,300. TIFFANY & CO. diamond ring, $2,200.
GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI top, $8,650, and dress, $4,390.
Feature (tbd)
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major film festivals with the eagerly await ed and shroudedinsecrecy Woodshock, the Mulleavys’ feature debut, which Dunst was an executive producer on. (A notice in Backstage magazine described the film thusly: “A woman falls deeper into para noia after taking a deadly drug.”) She has worked with the notoriously challenging Lars von Trier (Melancholia) and in the physically demanding Marvel Universe (as Mary Jane opposite Tobey Maguire’s SpiderMan in three separate tentpoles), but making Woodshock was her most grueling project to date. That’s partly because she appears in every scene in the movie, but also because, in her words, “I was making it with people I love and respect and they love and respect me. So it made me work even harder. After wards, I was a shell of a person. I was a
“I think to myself ONE DAY, when I’m old, I’m going to live with MY GIRLFRIENDS. We’ll have a WACKYFeature HOUSE with lots of animals— bunnies, KITTIES, I don’t know. Maybe in L.A., or I like Montecito.” That’s not to say that the actress, who got her start in the movie business as a 7yearold, is taking things easy and rest ing on her laurels. A muchacclaimed run on the second season of FX’s television series Fargo earned her a Golden Globe nomination and will, no doubt, lead to Emmy recogni tion this summer. This month, she appears opposite Michael Shannon and Joel Edg erton in Midnight Special, a new thriller from Warner Bros. with scifi overtones. She is in the midst of putting the finishing touches on a screenplay she cowrote and hopes to direct, perhaps even this year. She’s also looking forward to acting in a new Sofia Coppola movie, their first col laboration since Marie Antoinette a decade ago and The Virgin Suicides before that. And she will likely head to some of fall’s
C 156 MARCH 2016
zombie. It was emotional and exhausting.” On weekends during filming in North ern California, Dunst and the Mulleavy sisters would hole up and watch sitcoms on the Disney Channel. “We watched the one with Zendaya and maybe there was a talking dog one,” Dunst reveals, with a gig gle. “We’d just zone out.” In comparison, making Midnight Special was a walk in the park. Dunst had been a fan of director Jeff Nichols’ previ ous work, including Mud and Take Shelter. She read the script and talked to him about it at a dinner at which they both found themselves. Then Nichols asked Dunst to audition for the one female role: a mother who joins her husband and their son, who has special, inexplicable powers, on the run. “I hate auditioning,” says Dunst. “At a
certain point, I was like, really?” But Nichols was impressed that she agreed to come in and read for him. “She said, ‘Let me show you,’” he recalls. “Her reading convinced me. Watching it, I felt like she transformed into this meek, yet resilient woman. She was able to carry the weight of this woman’s life on her face and shoulders.” After making Midnight Special in early 2014, Dunst didn’t act in front of the cam era for almost an entire year; then Fargo came along. “Honestly, there was nothing that I wanted to do. There were no roles. There was nothing good enough,” she insists. Instead she spent the time writing the aforementioned screenplay. “I feel like I wait a lot,” she adds. But waiting paid off as Fargo is perhaps her meatiest project to date. On the series, she plays Peggy Blumquist, a bumbling beautician—the wife of a butcher’s assis tant—who thinks she deserves far more out of life than what she’s been given, and gets into hot water after a hitandrun ac cident. “I was hesitant at first to do TV, but now I wish I could play that role for a long time,” Dunst says of Peggy. Following a string of indie films (in cluding On the Road, The Two Faces of January, Upside Down and Bachelorette) that barely made an impression on mainstream audiences or the box office, “it was nice to do something that people actually saw, and not another indie that just goes to VOD,” Dunst says. “Espe cially because you do those movies for no money, so it really feels like, what’s the point?” Her most acclaimed recent role was in 2011’s Melancholia, which got raves from critics and colleagues alike. “Peo ple were nice about it and it’s a movie that will be important years from now because Lars is such an auteur, but who saw that?” Dunst asks. “Our community. A community of artists.” People are like, ‘What have you been doing these last few years?’ and I say, ‘I’ve been working. Sor ry I haven’t been in a superhero movie.’” Though Dunst’s mom is often the re cipient of praise about her daughter, es pecially from the sales folk at their local Bloomingdale’s, Dunst doesn’t actually hear much firsthand. “I’m a homebody and I only go to the Continued on p.198
HAIR: MARK TOWNSEND FOR DOVE HAIR CARE AT STARWORKS ARTISTS. MAKEUP: JILLIAN DEMPSEY USING CHANEL ROUGE COCO STYLO AT STARWORKS ARTISTS. MANICURE: DEBBIE LEAVITT FOR THE NAILING HOLLYWOOD COLLECTION IN FLESH AT NAILING HOLLYWOOD. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE, P.199
Though she has lived, off and on, in New York City, and was born at the Jersey Shore—Point Pleasant, if you want to put a fine point on it—Kirsten Dunst is now, through and through, a California girl. Not one that stepped out of a Beach Boys classic or a Katy Perry single, but one that, today, is lounging in her sunny backyard at home in Toluca Lake, wear ing a Rodarte sweatshirt (the same one she wore, she admits, on a trip to Disney land the day before with her best friend and her daughter, Dunst’s 18monthold goddaughter), Rodarte sweatpants and Ugg slippers. These days, says Dunst, 33, with a laugh, “I like the lounging life.” And her good friends, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the sisters behind Rodarte, “give me so many cozy clothes.”
FENDI dress, price upon request. Makeup: CHANEL Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Colour, $58, Le Volume de Chanel mascara in Noir, $32, Le Sourcil de Chanel Perfect Brows, $55, and Rouge Coco Stylo Complete Care Lip Shine in Recit, $37. JILLIAN DEMPSEY Khol Eyeliner in Jet Black, $20.
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Amid CALIFORNIA’S forsaken abyss, a WELL-FASHIONED damsel KICKS UP the dust in SPRING’S PRAIRIE-INSPIRED floral prints, ruffles and romantic layers
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CHRISTIAN ANWANDER Styling by DEBORAH AFSHANI Photography by
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VALENTINO dress, $12,000. WORTH & WORTH BY ORLANDO PALACIOS hat, $225. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN shoes, $1,345.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO top, $690, and skirt, $1,150. ERIC JAVITS hat, $580. CHANEL cuffs, $1,800 and $2,525. JIMMY CHOO shoes, $895. Opposite: ETRO dress, $4,528, bralette, $545, and choker, $422.
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LANVIN dress, $4,535. Blouse and ribbon, stylist’s own.
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CHANEL dress, $3,800. FALLON necklace, $350. JENNIFER BEHR snood, $575. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA shoes, $1,075.
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DOLCE & GABBANA dress, $5,995. THE OFFICE OF ANGELA SCOTT boots, $550.
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DIANE VON FURSTENBERG dress, $998. Vintage boots, stylist’s own. Opposite: DELPOZO dress, price upon request.
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MODEL: BREGJE HEINEN AT VISION MODELS. HAIR: MAKIKO NARA AT WALTER SCHUPFER MANAGEMENT USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE. MAKEUP: LISET GARZA AT THE WALL GROUP. MANICURE: NATALIE LY AT STUDIO M SALON AND SPA. PROPS: COURTESY OF OWL AND THE ELEPHANT STUDIOS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE, P.199
MIU MIU dress, $1,445, shirt, $640.
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GUCCI shirt, $1,390, and skirt, $3,500. Makeup: ORLANE Super-Moisturizing Light Cream, $165. ELIZABETH ARDEN Eight Hour Cream Skin Protectant, $21. MAKE UP FOR EVER Ultra HD Foundation in Golden Honey, $43.
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SUNSET TOWER HOTEL. Opposite: Dimitri Dimitrov, maitre d’ of the hotel’s Tower Bar.
Beloved FASHION ILLUSTRATOR, celebrity PORTRAITIST, global man-about-town and Claridge’s artist-in-residence DAVID DOWNTON VIEWS L.A. through the LOOKING GLASS Written and illustrated by
DAVID DOWNTON
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My work takes me to London, Paris and New York—don’t cry for me—but I am not in Los Angeles nearly enough. Determined to do something about it, I recently spent a few days in the City of Angels. “You must,” said a friend to whom I defer, “stay at the Sunset Tower.” How right she was. Arriving at the Art Deco landmark on Sunset Boulevard (where, according to Truman Capote, “every scandal that ever happened, happened,”) I learn that I have been upgraded to the penthouse. Ah, the frisson of reaching for the button marked “PH” in a crowded elevator. I travel to my 15th-floor aerie, with its 180-degree terrace, flush with the glow of being envied.
MARCH 2016 C 171
Denise Hale at THEÂ BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL. Opposite: Dita Von Teese with her feline friend, Aleister Von Teese.
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The Tower was originally an apartment building (John Wayne once lived there and is said to have kept a cow on his balcony for when he craved fresh milk). After a chequered recent history it has blossomed again under the watchful eye of its latest owner, Jeff Klein. “You will need to make a friend of Dimitri,” advised my friend. Right again. Dimitri Dimitrov is the maitre d’ at the Tower Bar, the hotel’s so-happening-it-hurts restaurant, performing the nightly conjuring trick of seating the great and the good—it’s a hot-ticket Hunger Games with a comic-opera flourish. It’s no surprise to learn that Dimitrov inspired the character of M. Gustave in Wes Anderson’s The Grand Budapest Hotel. Up early, I walk on the beach in Santa Monica and have a rather perfunctory look at the treasures on display at the Getty before driving to The Beverly Hills Hotel, where Denise Hale, San Francisco’s reigning social empress, is holding court in The Polo Lounge. “Darling, of course I knew Don Loper,” she says, referring to the designer of the hotel’s iconic banana-leaf wallpaper. “He was a dancer on Broadway and later a dress designer. I met him when I was with Vincente.” (Vincente being Vincente Minnelli, the legendary director of MGM musicals and melodramas, to whom she was married for most of the 1960s.) They lived a cork’s pop across the street from the pink palace. “It was my annex,” says Denise, her native Serbian accent at once inviting and impenetrable. “Friends from all over the world came to stay and got up to God knows what!” When she began seeing Prentis Cobb Hale, who would become her third husband—and the love of her life—they met clandestinely at Bungalow 4. “Once we were married, we went legit and booked into the main building.” And Denise has remained loyal. “I am here because of Edward,” she says, as the hotel’s general manager, Edward A. Mady, appears. “He was the one who brought the glamour back.” The next day—set the dial to stun—I visit high fashion’s favorite pinup, Dita Von Teese, who opens the door to her jewel-box house in Los Feliz in a silk robe, looking as though she has stepped from the set of a golden-age film noir. I
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DITA VON TEESE opens the door to her jewel-box house in Los Feliz in A SILK ROBE, looking as though she has stepped from the set of a GOLDEN-AGE FILM NOIR. I half expect her to pull a SMOKING GUN from her pocket. MARCH 2016 C 173
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In life, MS. JONES IS breezy, good company, engaged and engaging—and THE KIND OF BLONDE who might trouble ALFRED HITCHCOCK. I already regret not DRAWING HER in the hat she has brought along to try. C 174 MARCH 2016
half expect her to pull a smoking gun from her pocket. But that’s not Dita’s style; she is far too upbeat. “Want to see the glamour floor?” she asks brightly, leading the way upstairs to a red lacquer Aladdin’s cave, a ground zero of feminine artifice and allure, feathers and fur, thises and thats, shoes and more shoes. Later, as she poses for a drawing in the kind of bedroom you hope Rita Hayworth used to wake up in, we are joined by her cat, Aleister Von Teese (over 60,000 followers on Instagram). “I’ve often thought he should have his own cartoon strip—my life from his perspective,” she muses. Sold. That night, I’m invited to a party at Dawnridge, the baroque former home of the more-was-never-enough designer Tony Duquette. Pitched somewhere between Brighton’s Royal Pavilion and Bali Hai, the house and several pagoda-style buildings are dotted around a ravine. The effect is hallucinogenic, a magpie’s dream—and a minimalist’s nightmare. The party swings along. Down by the shore (well, anyway, man-made lake) an orchestra is playing. This is a magic kingdom, a night blooming exotic. I cannot imagine it during daylight hours. On my last day, I take a car and cover as much ground as I can: Bel Air and Hollywood Boulevard, the Griffith Observatory. Then, in the afternoon, I have a sitting with January Jones. As a Mad Men obsessive, this is a big deal for me. Of all the tangled and tortured characters in that echoing chamber piece, could it be that Betty was the most interesting? From her early Grace Kelly glow—via weight gain (and loss)— to her hair-trigger parenting, she was certainly the most unfathomable. In life, Ms. Jones is breezy, good company, engaged and engaging—and the kind of blonde who might trouble Alfred Hitchcock. I already regret not drawing her in the hat she has brought along to try. Reason enough for a return trip. L.A. is my lady. •
Actress January Jones. Opposite: Tony Duquette’s famed DAWNRIDGE estate in Beverly Hills.
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TWO is ALWAYS better than one. THIS SEASON, pair off in statementmaking separates with EXAGGERATED silhouettes
Styling by
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MAURIZIO BAVUTTI ELIZABETH CABRAL
Photography by
ROBERTO CAVALLI jeans, price upon request (left). BRUNELLO CUCINELLI pants, $1,075.
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DIOR coat, $4,700.
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ISABEL MARANT shirt, $925, and pants, $440. CHURCH’S shoes, $610.
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CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION coat, $3,995, and dress, $2,650 (left). BOSS vest, $1,595. VERA WANG COLLECTION top, similar styles available. CHANEL skirt, $6,350.
MIU MIU jacket, $3,500, dress, $2,280, and shirt, $640. BURBERRY sandals, $750.
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VERSACE top, $1,225, and pants, $1,275. CHURCH’S shoes, $1,210.
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BOTTEGA VENETA dress, $4,900. VALENTINO jacket (tied around waist), $7,200.
J.W.ANDERSON top, $1,095.
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BALLY coat, $2,795 (left). VERA WANG COLLECTION jacket, similar styles available.
MODELS: SOFIA SANOH AT WOMEN MANAGEMENT, CHLOE WHEATCROFT AT MUSE MANAGEMENT. HAIR: RUDY MARTINS USING GHD AND ORIBE AT L’ATELIER NYC. MAKEUP: VIRGINIA YOUNG AT MAM-NYC USING DIORSKIN NUDE. MANICURE: ERI HANDA AT MAM-NYC USING DIOR VERNIS. CASTING: DAVID CHEN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE, P.199
LOUIS VUITTON jumpsuit and hand wraps, prices upon request (left). SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE jacket, $1,490, sweater, $1,190, and skirt, price upon request.
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CÉLINE coat, $4,000, top, $1,800, and pants, $2,450. SACAI sandals, $645. Makeup: RETROUVÉ Intensive Replenishing Facial Moisturizer, $520. GIVENCHY Mister Light Instant Light corrective pen, $36. NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer, $44, and Highlighting Blush in Albatross, $30. MAYBELLINE Lash Discovery mascara, $8. ANASTASIA BEVERLY HILLS Perfect Brow Pencil, $23.
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DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN Written by MARTHA McCULLY Photography by
C 24 MARCH 2016
Wife, mother and lover of all things MACABRE, Sarah-Jane Wilde opens up her HOME IN THE HILLS to give us a view into her OVER-THE-TOP WAY OF LIFE
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Sarah-Jane Wilde with her Great Danes, Hester and Idalgo. The property is one of only 17 in Los Angeles with this view of Downtown, the Stone Canyon Reservoir, Century City and the beach.
24 MARCH 2016 EDITED BY C KENDALL CONRAD
Wearing a hooded, black mink cape and covered in jewels at two o’clock in the afternoon, blasting the audiobook of Robert Evans’ The Kid Stays in the Picture, Sarah-Jane Wilde was driving her 1975 triple-black Rolls Royce Corniche Coupe on Santa Monica Boulevard when a young man in a chrome Fisker pulled up next to her and rolled down his window. “You look so cool in that car,” he said. It was Justin Bieber. She thanked him, then drove home to make dinner for her kids. It was just another day in the life of Sarah-Jane Wilde, wife, mother of two boys, ages 7 and 13, and jewelry designer (who made opera-length pearl necklaces with tassels of her own hair for her best friend Thom Browne’s fashion show last season). Wearing a fox coat that Krystle Carrington really wore on Dynasty, she describes her own style as “strange, grandma, 1970s, old lady and flashy,” yet says her style icons, including Alain Delon, Halston, Yves Saint Laurent and Pier Paolo Pasolini, are all men.
Feature (tbd) Clockwise from top: A pair of THOM BROWNE shoes dipped in sterling silver rest on the floor by a velvet upholstered bed; a film projector is behind the drapes. Cigarettes and art in the living room. A TERRY O’NEILL photograph of Steve McQueen keeps watch over James Dean’s death mask in the Lucite box near an EAMES lounger.
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Color-coded bookshelves; vintage black leather recliner; Wilde found the purple HERMĂˆS blanket on eBay; vintage LOUIS VUITTON luggage belonged to French film actress Michèle Morgan and came with a 1930s straw boater hat inside.
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In the living room, JACK LENOR LARSEN bucket chairs in their original 1970s black velvet with leather trim flank a cement table; the stone fireplace is original to the house; the 1919 polar-bear rug is a family heirloom; KNOLL black leather and rosewood sofa.
S.J., as her friends call her, grew up in London and Switzerland, where she attended boarding school, before going to Columbia University and the Sciences Po in Paris (she speaks six languages, including Arabic). She was a successful model and muse to designers like Martin Margiela and Romeo Gigli and went on to have a brief stint as an actress in 1995’s The Journey of August King. She says “it was an incredible experience, and I mean that in a negative way.” Wilde met Browne when they were both modeling for a J. Crew catalog. Now, 20 years later, she says they’re “kindred souls who speak 10 to 15 times a day, unless he’s abroad,” and feels incredibly fortunate to “be in my best friend’s Champagne bubble, two fashion weeks a year,” when she creates jewelry for his runway shows. “It doesn’t suck,” she adds. Wilde insists it would be “obnoxious” to refer to herself as an interior designer as well—despite the fact that she has taken on many office and home projects, including her own. Her house, built from 1969 to 1971 by the previous owner, has a ’70s vibe that’s part original and part “in the movie of my mind, as I imagine it in the ’70s,” she says. Wilde has a vivid imagination and an eye for the curious, obscure, imaginative and taxidermic. With vintage tiger and polar-bear rugs, a mint Knoll black leather couch, Pucci fabric on the dining-room chairs and cigarettes in the candy dishes, she proves she’s “permanently stuck in the 1970s.” She goes for, in her words, “a mix of really fantastic things with notat-all-special things.” Witness the guest room, a recent add-on cantilevered by firm Marmol Radziner and featuring an unobstructed view of the reservoir, finished with a silver fox blanket on the bed and Costco sheepskins on the floor. All things gothic creep up in conversation, and in her house. The living room coffee table is populated with sterling silver, rosewood and wax skulls; James Dean’s actual death mask lives in a Lucite box on another coffee table. Wilde has told her children that when she dies she wants “to be placed in her Rolls, have it set on fire and engulfed in flames, so no one else can have it.” (She calls the car her “casket.”) She swears she didn’t know that Browne’s fashion show (the one she
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MARCH 2016 C 193
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In the bedroom, the tiger rug is also a family heirloom; a MURANO lamp sits atop a Makassar ebony dresser; the chaise is upholstered in green malachite fabric from F&S FABRICS; the vintage LOUIS VUITTON trunk belonged to French actor Louis Jouvet. Wilde is wearing one of the humanhair necklaces she designed for THOM BROWNE’s show.
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created “hair jewelry” for) was envisioned as a theater installation of a funeral. Not surprisingly, she loves black, but for more practical reasons. “It’s elegant, which, as women get older, is the only path,” Wilde says. Her dining room walls are wallpapered in ebony; a round cutout on the ceiling is painted with Farrow & Ball Pitch Black; and that incredible panoramic view outside—from Downtown Los Angeles past the Stone Canyon Reservoir to Century City and the beach—is made visible day and night thanks to back-painted (Farrow & Ball Off Black) glass walls in the kitchen. A koi pond on the property was originally stocked with black koi, but the fish were eventually replaced, because, well, no one could see them. “Everyone made fun of me,” Wilde says. “But I knew they were there.” Despite the emphasis on the macabre, the residence, like the lady of the house, is full of life: Sundays are for entertaining, a time when she invites artists, directors, actors, museum curators and students for an outdoor luncheon cooked, in her words, “always by the same chef. Me.” Menus, like everything, overflow with outsized and, yes, controversial flavor: Think purple carrot, ginger and winter white truffle soup, osso buco and foie gras. “Sorry!” Wilde says of the much-debated delicacy. “Maybe one day I’ll become a vegan and wear paper jackets…but not yet.” •
Above: Her hairless Sphinx cat, Weapons of Mass Destruction, is wearing one of Wilde’s 18-karat bracelets as a collar. White fantasy marble counters; handtinted concrete floors; cabinets are lacquered in white FERRARI automotive paint. Right: The guest bedroom with TIMOROUS BEASTIES Bloomsbury Garden wall covering and Graffiti Stripe Velvet drapes.
C 196 MARCH 2016
HAIR: AMBER DUARTE USING ORIBE AT THE REX AGENCY. MAKEUP : ANNA BRANSON USING CHARLOTTE TILBURY. INTERIORS STYLIST: ANNA POMERANTZ
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Wilde kept the wallpaper behind the bar and the terrazzo tiles on the floor. The bar is original but now covered in Makassar ebony; a built-in blender is hidden inside.
WESTWARD LEANING CONTINUED FROM P.95
the contrast of the Gustavian-style interi-
rest comes from all over the world.
ors of Vassar’s mother’s coastal home in
What’s
Newport Beach, and the sandy surf below.
BAMPFA?
next
for
this
new
era
at
there could be a camera somewhere,
The result? Clothes in luxe fabrics and
I predict that a lot of people are going to
whether paparazzi or a friend’s iPhone. So
simple shapes (brocade sundresses, cotton
get very excited about art, and the role that
it pays to look good, always.
skirts with delicately embroidered hems,
museums can play in contemporary life.
Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli has
and floor-grazing shirtdresses in pale cot-
You know, there are so few places in our society today where people from different
been inspired by our laid-back luxe since
ton voiles, for example) designed to go to
he founded his company in 1978, and has
the beach or a dinner party. “It’s about not
backgrounds come together in a spirit of
made fans of Jessica Alba, Cindy Crawford,
taking yourself too seriously,” Vassar says.
openness. When you go into a museum, it’s a signal to open your mind because you’re
Jennifer Garner and other famous L.A. la-
But the biggest reason for our new fash-
dies who look to him for elevated off-du-
ionable state may be because here, uncon-
there to discover something you didn’t
ty attire. “Elegant and sporty” is how he
ventionality is the norm.
know before. •
describes his spring collection of striped
Designer Rosetta Getty certainly ap-
ball skirts, tennis sweaters, crisp white cu-
preciates that. Inspiration for her spring
lottes and supple silk tanks, which would
collection struck at the Getty Center,
be at home at a Malibu backyard party.
where she stumbled on a show about the
As much as California can be showy, it’s
LETTING LOOSE CONTINUED FROM P.156
avant-garde dancer, choreographer, filmsame two places,” she says.
also a beacon for relaxed, refined feminin-
maker and writer Yvonne Rainer, a San
ity—less diva, more down-to-earth. Note
Francisco native who embodies Califor-
One of those places is the local tennis
Chanel’s tweed jacket layered over gossa-
nia’s freethinking ethos. Rainer first gained
court, where she’s been taking lessons, her
mer dress and pants (where else could you
prominence in the 1960s, interestingly
first since making 2004’s Wimbledon op-
wear that but here?), Balenciaga’s louche
enough, for avoiding showmanship in
posite Paul Bettany. “Before, I was good
lingerie top over wide-legged trousers,
her work. She said “no” to formality and
enough to do a few shots in a movie,” she
Greg Lauren’s slouchy tuxedo with extra-
theatricality in dance in favor of gestures
says. “Now, I’m learning to play with other
long shirt and tailcoat, and Juan Carlos
that were more casual and cool, including
people.”
Obando’s sport-meets-evening-wear sepa-
wails, grunts and squeaks.
rates.
Another is to her best friend’s house, to
It was that impulse that led Getty to
spend time with her goddaughter. “I love
Runover
“There’s a strong fingerprint of lifestyle
design fluid trumpet skirts, rib tees with
her so much. She’s so precious. You get to
here, and it’s because we are psychologi-
cutout shoulders, off-shoulder blouses and
experience life through their eyes. All of
cally tied to the environment,” says Oban-
crepe gowns that go wherever you want
the little things,” Dunst says.
do. “It defines us.”
to. “Modern dance had a lot of structure
As for having kids of her own with her
actually, and boundaries,” she says. “But
boyfriend, actor Garrett Hedlund, “I can
Because nature is so intrinsic even to urban life in California, there’s a thread of
the postmodern dance movement…there
wait a little time. It’s a lot of work.” But
eco-consciousness here, too, thanks to la-
were no rules or structure; it was just about
she definitely wants them. “Who else is go-
bels such as L.A. men’s brand Outerknown,
moving however you felt like moving, a
ing to take care of you when you’re an old
founded by champion surfer Kelly Slater
real freedom without any hang-ups at all.”
fart?” she asks rhetorically.
and backed by luxury conglomerate Ker-
Sounds like California in a nutshell. •
from organic cotton, hemp, wool and a recycled nylon called Econyl made from
GROUND BREAKING CONTINUED FROM P.144
recovered fishing nets.
Until then, she’s very happy in her suburban Toluca Lake life, sweatpants includ-
ing, which sells coastal casual wear made
ed. Her mother lives 12 houses away; she can get to another friend in six minutes. She loves ordering from Postmates, even from the nearby Taco Bell, and to hole up
“My house has always been about em-
watching The Bachelor.
bracing sustainability, looking forward,
There’s a wonderful kind of interpenetra-
and being aware of our impact on the plan-
tion of spaces.
et,” says McCartney. “That’s always been
Tell us about the inspiration for the open-
can have an animal that won’t be eaten by
very at home in L.A.”
ing exhibition you curated for the new
coyotes, and my boyfriend loves animals.
building, “Architecture of Life.”
It makes the house cozy,” says Dunst, who
up to the haute couture, as evidenced
I feel like this new building is such a cel-
with Hedlund adopted a cat named Tito—
by Chanel’s recent show featuring a turf
ebration of architectural imagination and
or rather Tito adopted them in 2014 by
runway destined for the compost heap,
the ability of architecture to reshape our
continually showing up in their backyard.
clothes with 3-D printed frills, wood-chip
experience of life, our expectations, the
“I think to myself, One day, when I’m
beads and recycled-paper embellishments.
ways we think and live. I wanted to really
old, I’m going to live with my girlfriends.
The sentiment has echoed all the way
“You can run in my neighborhood. You
de-
explore that and the power of that meta-
We’ll have a wacky house with lots of ani-
signers Kristopher Brock and Laura Vas-
phor and the ways that it’s expressed in
mals—bunnies, kitties, I don’t know. May-
sar moved from New York to L.A. last
not only architecture, but also art and sci-
be in L.A., or I like Montecito,” Dunst says,
year, so they could be immersed in the
entific illustration. So the show includes
projecting into the future. “I just want to be
indoor-outdoor lifestyle that inspires their
works going back almost 2,000 years. It’s
in good weather when I’m old—near peo-
label, Brock Collection. For spring, it was
about 20 percent our collection and the
ple I love and can have fun with.” •
Buzzed-about
C 198 MARCH 2016
husband-and-wife
SHOPPING GUIDE ON OUR COVER Fendi light wool silk gazar cream cutout dress, price upon request, Fendi, B.H., 310‑276‑8888; fendi.com. TABLE OF CONTENTS p.44 DKNY heather‑gray wool jacket, $995, dkny.com. Dries Van Noten white Callas shirt, $950, bergdorfgoodman.com, and Petrol Phoebe silk pants, $1,855, Opening Ceremony, W.H., 310‑652‑1120. Church’s Kelsey in pink patent leather, $500, church‑footwear.com. Salvatore Ferragamo black top, $690, and black skirt, $1,150, Salvatore Ferragamo, B.H., 310‑273‑9990; ferragamo.com. Eric Javits velour gaucho hat, $580, ericjavits.com. Chanel metal and plexiglass bracelet, $1,800‑$2,525, Chanel, B.H., 800‑550‑0005; chanel.com. Jimmy Choo Myriad sandals, $895, Jimmy Choo, B.H., 310‑860‑9045; jimmychoo.com. ALL NIGHT LONG p.104 Stephen Webster Magnipheasant yellow gold and white diamond pavé earrings, $7,000, Stephen Webster, B.H., 310‑246‑9500; stephenwebster.com. Cartier Etourdissant collection platinum, sapphire, emerald and diamond earrings, price upon request, Cartier, B.H., 310‑275‑4272; cartier.com. Vhernier Pan Di Zucchero pink gold, sunflower quartz and white mother‑ of‑pearl earrings, $7,700, Vhernier, B.H., 310‑273‑2444; vhernier.it. Van Cleef & Arpels Cascade Précieuse diamond, turquoise and lapis lazuli set earrings, price upon request, Van Cleef & Arpels, South Coast Plaza, 714‑ 545‑9500; vancleefarpels.com. Buccellati gold and diamond pendant earrings, price upon request, Buccellati, B.H., 310‑276‑7022; buccellati.com. Dolce & Gabbana Farfalle collection gold, white opal and pearl earrings, $5,750, Dolce & Gabbana, B.H., 877‑703‑ 4872; dolcegabbana.it. Silvia Furmanovich gold, light brown diamond, blue topaz and blue oak wood marquetry earrings, $9,800, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310‑550‑5900; neiman marcus.com. Kimberly McDonald One of a Kind geode and yellow diamond earrings, $28,175, Kimberly McDonald, L.A., 310‑854‑ 0890; kimberlymcdonald.com. Marco Bicego hand‑engraved yellow gold and semiprecious gemstone earrings, $3,910, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310‑550‑5900; marcobicego.com.
Balenciaga leather jacket, stylist’s own. Eddie Borgo earrings, see p.150. Cartier Juste un Clou white gold and diamond ring, $4,300, Cartier, B.H., 310‑275‑4272; cartier.com. Tiffany & Co. T wire ring in white gold and diamonds, $2,200, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310‑ 273‑8880; tiffany.com. p.154‑155 Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci top in crepe jersey, $8,650, and silk satin with embroidery lace dress, $4,390, givenchy.com. Versace boots, see p.150. Cartier ring, see p.153. Tiffany & Co. wire ring, see p.153. p.157 Fendi light wool silk gazar cream cutout dress, price upon request, Fendi, B.H., 310‑276‑8888; fendi.com. MAKEUP: Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Colour, $58, Le Volume de Chanel mascara in Noir, $32, Le Sourcil de Chanel Perfect Brows, $55, and Rouge Coco Stylo Complete Care Lip Shine in Recit, $37, chanel.com. Jillian Dempsey Khol Eyeliner in Jet Black, $20, jilliandempsey.com. A NEW FRONTIER p.159 Valentino black caftan lace gown, $12,000, Valentino, B.H., 310‑247‑0103; valentino.com. Worth & Worth by Orlando Palacios black fur felt bolero, $225, hatshop.com. Christian Louboutin black suede Ottocarl bootie with fringe, $1,345, Christian Louboutin, W.H., 310‑247‑9300; us.christianlouboutin.com. p.160 Salvatore Ferragamo black top, $690, and black skirt, $1,150, Salvatore Ferragamo, B.H., 310‑ 273‑9990; ferragamo.com. Eric Javits velour gaucho hat, $580, ericjavits.com. Chanel metal and plexiglass bracelet, $1,800‑$2,525, Chanel, B.H., 800‑550‑0005; chanel.com. Jimmy Choo Myriad sandals, $895, Jimmy Choo, B.H., 310‑860‑9045; jimmychoo.com. p.161 Etro silk floral gown, $4,528, brocade silk bralette, $545, and hand‑painted floral choker, $442, Etro, B.H., 310‑248‑2855; etro.com. p.162 Lanvin light blue silk gazar and tweed dress, $4,535, Lanvin, South Coast Plaza, 714‑706‑3240; lanvin.com. Gibson shirt and Mokuba ribbon, stylist’s own. p.163 Chanel printed denim dress, $3,800, Chanel, B.H., 800‑550‑0005; chanel.com. Fallon pearl leather wrap Monarch choker, $350, Barneys New York, B.H., 310‑276‑4400; barneys.com. Jennifer Behr Agata tulle snood with Swarovski crystals, $575, jenniferbehr.com. Charlotte Olympia Katherine heels, $1,075, Charlotte Olympia, South Coast Plaza, 657‑ 232‑4622; us.charlotteolympia.com. p.164 Dolce & Gabbana silk maiolica‑print dress, $5,995, dolcegabbana.com. The Office of Angela Scott Miss Scott black snake Chelsea boots, $550, The Office of Angela Scott, L.A., 323‑424‑7796; theofficeofangelascott.com. p.166 Diane von Furstenberg Amabelle dress, $998, Diane von Furstenberg, South Coast Plaza, 714‑312‑5480; dvf.com. Vintage brown boots, stylist’s own. p.167 Delpozo embroidered dress, price upon request, delpozo.com. p.168 Miu Miu purple sheer dress, $1,445, and navy‑and‑white gingham shirt, $640, Miu Miu, B.H., 310‑247‑2227; miumiu.com. p.169 Gucci rose‑red chiffon shirt, $1,390, and hibiscus red silk duchesse wrap skirt, $3,500, Gucci, B.H., 310‑652‑0375; gucci.com. The Office of Angela Scott Miss Scott black snake Chelsea boots, see p.164. MAKEUP: Orlane Paris Super‑Moisturizing Light Cream, $165, Neiman Marcus, B.H.,
310‑550‑5900; neimanmarcus.com. Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Skin Protectant, $21, macys.com; elizabetharden.com. Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Invisible Cover Stick Foundation in Golden Honey, $43, makeupforever.com. INSEPARABLE p.176 Roberto Cavalli embroidered denim jeans, price upon request, robertocavalli.com. p.177 Brunello Cucinelli wide‑leg denim wrap front trousers, $1,075, Brunello Cucinelli, B.H., 310‑724‑8118; brunello cucinelli.com. p.178 Dior wool crepe coat, $4,700, Dior, B.H., 310‑859‑4700; dior.com. p.179 Isabel Marant Nancy shirt, $925, and Jada pants, $440, Isabel Marant, W.H., 323‑ 651‑1493; isabelmarant.com. Church’s Opal in black and white polished binder and prestige calf, $610, church‑footwear.com. p.180 Calvin Klein Collection taupe leather trench, $3,995, and black satin sleeveless dress, $2,650, calvinklein.com. BOSS vest, $1,595, hugoboss.com. Vera Wang Collection black mesh racer‑back bra top, similar styles available, Vera Wang, B.H., 323‑602‑ 0174; verawang.com. Chanel lambskin skirt, $6,350, Chanel, B.H., 323‑602‑0174; chanel.com. p.181 Miu Miu leather jacket, $3,500, silk dress, $2,280, and gingham shirt, $640, Miu Miu, B.H., 310‑247‑2227; miumiu.com. Burberry chain‑embellished sport sandals, $750, us.burberry.com. p.182 Versace silk crespo wild patch tailored blouse, $1,225, and silk crespo wild patch wide‑leg trousers, $1,275, Versace, B.H., 310‑205‑3921; us.versace.com. Church’s Shanghai in silver mirror calf and nabuk, $1,210, church‑ footwear.com. p.183 Bottega Veneta dress in dark sergeant, $4,900, Bottega Veneta, B.H., 310‑858‑6533; bottegaveneta.com. Valentino brocade tie‑dye print jacket, $7,200, Valentino, B.H., 310‑247‑0103; valentino.com. Burberry sandals, see p.181. p.184 J.W.Anderson mock‑neck top, $1,095, j‑w‑anderson.com. p.185 Bally coat in bone, $2,795, Bally, B.H., 310‑271‑3310; bally.com. Vera Wang black techno drill oversized shirt, similar styles available, Vera Wang, B.H., 323‑602‑ 0174; verawang.com. p.186 Louis Vuitton overdyed silk jumpsuit and leather hand wraps, price upon request, Louis Vuitton, B.H., 310‑859‑0457; louisvuitton.com. Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane oversized denim jacket, $1,490, cropped sweater, $1,190, and panel skirt, price upon request, Saint Laurent, B.H., 310‑271‑5051; ysl.com. p.187 Céline Prince of Wales wool jacquard coat, $4,000, cotton crochet knit vest, $1,800, and large check stretch wool, $2,450, Céline, B.H., 310‑888‑0120; celine.com. Sacai sandals with buckle and wraparound strap, $645, Dover Street Market, N.Y., 646‑837‑ 7750; newyork.doverstreetmarket.com. MAKEUP: Retrouvé Intensive Replenishing Facial Moisturizer, $520, Ron Robinson, S.M., 310‑393‑2370; ronrobinson.com. Givenchy Mister Light Instant Light Corrector Pen, $36, sephora.com. NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30, $43, and Highlighting Blush in Albatross, $30, narscosmetics.com. Maybelline Lash Discovery Mascara, $8, maybelline.com. Anastasia Beverly Hills Perfect Brow Pencil, $23, anastasiabeverlyhills.com.
Shopping Guide
LETTING LOOSE p.150 Dolce & Gabbana black lace bustier bra, $795, and black silk briefs, $295, Dolce & Gabbana, B.H., 310‑859‑8400; dolcegabbana.it. Versace black Vitellino + Nastro boots, price upon request, Versace, B.H., 310‑205‑3921; us.versace.com. Eddie Borgo crystal triangle earrings, $110, shopbop.com. Vintage black cobweb sweater, stylist’s own. p.151 Céline shiny nappa dress, $5,300, Céline, B.H., 310‑888‑ 0120; celine.com. Eddie Borgo earrings, see p.150. Denim jacket, similar styles at Guess, B.H., 310‑247‑8667; guess.com. p.152 Prada dress, $6,790, Prada, B.H., 310‑278‑ 6661; prada.com. p.153 Maiyet Arc slip dress in mirage, $795, maiyet.com. Vintage
C Magazine March 2016 is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310‑393‑3800, Fax 310‑393‑3899, E‑mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 460248, Escondido, CA 92046. Subscriptions Telephone 800‑775‑3066 or E‑mail cmagcustomerservice@pcspublink.com. Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., add $15 postage. Single copies available at newsstands and other magazine outlets throughout the United States.
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They don’t call it the AMERICAN RIVIERA for nothing—let the city’s SPANISH FLAIR inspire your next weekend getaway Edited by LINDSAY KINDELON 1. SERENA & LILY beach towels, $48 each, serenaandlily.com. 2. GIORGIO ARMANI Runway hat, $725, armani.com. 3. CHANEL Lego Bag sunglasses, $287, farfetch.com. 4. TABULA RASA Seidou hammock, $5,750, tabularasa-ny.com. 5. BEAUTYCOUNTER Lustro Body Oil, $73, beautycounter.com. 6. MICHEL KORS COLLECTION Spring 2016. 7. AQUAZZURA sandals, $825, net-a-porter.com. 8. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA printed clutch, $1,095, charlotteolympia. com. 9. FENDI Peekaboo Mini bag, $7,250, fendi.com. 10. ERES Creamy bikini, $435, barneys.com. 11. DOLCE & GABBANA Spring 2016. 12. SAM EDELMAN Gemina sandals, $100, samedelman.com. 13. THREE STICKS Pinot Noir, $60, threestickswines.com. 14. PRADA Paillettes earrings, $515, prada.com. 15. RED VALENTINO Spring 2016.
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GUERRAND-HERMÈS: TC REINER. MARIO ALGAZE, CURRIDABAT, COSTA RICA, 1987. GELATIN SILVER PRINT. SANTA BARBARA MUSEUM OF ART, MUSEUM PURCHASE WITH FUNDS PROVIDED BY FRIENDS OF PHOTOGRAPHIC ART. © MARIO ALGAZE
4.
3.
C Insider
5.
EVA GUERRAND-HERMÈS
Curridabat, Costa Rica, 1987 by Mario Algaze. “Looking In, Looking Out: Latin American Photography,” at the Santa Barbara Museum of Art through March 20.
When In
6. 8. 7.
Montecito resident Eva Guerrand-Hermès, coowner of women’s fashionforward athleisure and well-being brand Lolë (lolewomen.com), (lolewomen.com lolewomen.com gives C the inside scoop: • Outdoor adventure Hiking the infinite mountain trails with breathtaking views and ascents behind our gorgeous village. • Rest and relaxation Alchemy Wellness Spa for the Chakra WellBeing treatment—the ultimate energetic balance and restoration. alchemywellnessspa.com. alchemywellnessspa.com • Must book Lucky’s restaurant in Montecito— cozy, delicious, and surrounded by dear friends, adorable staff and the best wine cellar in town. luckys-steakhouse.com. luckys-steakhouse.com • Favorite thing about S.B. The women! Literally. We have the most supportive, interesting, dynamic and intelligent group of ladies who share strong family values and a balanced philosophy of life. • The perfect day Taking the family for a surf, swim, nature walk and picnic at Gaviota, El Capitán or Hollister Ranch beaches, with a critical pickup on the way at Renaud’s of pain bagnat sandwiches and chocolate éclairs just like in the south of France. renaudsbakery.com.
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ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE, Lisa Lyon, 1981 Five years ago, when the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation was looking for a home for a sizable portion of its archive (120,000 negatives, hundreds of artworks, 6,000 contact sheets and a wealth of ephemera), LACMA Director Michael Govan suggested his Wilshire Boulevard institution would be just the place. Concerned about absorbing and maintaining such a large body of work, Govan did something unprecedented: He approached The Getty Museum about doing a joint acquisition and they agreed. While the works were appraised at $38 million and largely gifted from the foundation, LACMA and The Getty were on the hook for a $3 million bill for 100 of the most iconic pieces (including Mapplethorpe’s series with bodybuilder Lisa Lyon); Govan turned to entertainment mogul and avid art collector David Geffen to cover their share. This month, a double exhibition, Robert Mapplethorpe: The Perfect Medium, bows at both museums. A Hollywood ending for the prized works wouldn’t be complete without its own reel: Next month, HBO debuts Mapplethorpe: Look at the Pictures, a feature-length documentary on the extraordinary life and work of this unforgettable talent.
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WRITTEN BY KELSEY M c KINNON. ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE, AMERICAN, 1946–1989, LISA LYON, 1981 GELATIN SILVER PRINT IMAGE: 45.1 × 35 CM (17¾ × 13¾ IN.) PROMISED GIFT OF THE ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE FOUNDATION TO THE J. PAUL GETTY TRUST AND THE LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART, L.2012.88.482. © ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE FOUNDATION
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