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OCTOBER 2016
112
Features
TOC 1
92 SIBLING REVELRY Pyper America, Starlie, Daisy Clementine and Lucky Blue Smith of the Atomics are ready to blow up the music world.
104 TOUR DE FORCE
104
From Los Angeles to San Francisco, collector Chara Schreyer and her five residential collaborations are greater than the sum of her art. Case in point: her Marin masterwork.
92 124
112 BREAKING RANKS L.A. artist Jane Moseley gets her richly decorated marching orders in fall’s military-inspired hits.
124 DIVIDE & CONQUER For married artists Clare Rojas and Barry McGee, distinct creative spaces make way for original forms.
130 PATRONS’ SAINT Paris-based designer Andrew Gn finds a second home in the Bay Area, where his fresh take on Old World grandeur and emphasis on fine craftsmanship play to a rapt audience. Together, he and his “Gnettes” hold court at the Legion of Honor. C 22 OCTOBER 2016
On Our Cover THE ATOMICS wearing PRADA clothing. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, DR. MARTENS and PRADA shoes. Jewelry by PRADA, JOHN HARDY, ANNE SISTERON, DAVID YURMAN, MARCO BICEGO, JEWELISTA and JENNIFER MEYER. PHOTOGRAPHY Mary McCartney. STYLIST Alison Edmond. HAIR Chris McMillan at Solo Artists for Living Proof. MAKEUP Jo Strettell at Tracey Mattingly. NAILS Tom Bachik at Cloutier Remix for L’Oréal Paris.
“BREAKING RANKS” (P.112): BEAU GREALY. “PATRONS’ SAINT” (P.130): AUBRIE PICK. “TOUR DE FORCE” (P.104): MATTHEW MILLMAN. “DIVIDE & CONQUER” (P.124): ANGIE SILVY. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.134
130
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L O S
A N G E L E S
Departments 30 FOUNDER’S LETTER Surveying California’s arts scene, from north to south.
32 C PEOPLE
53
Who’s who behind the scenes of C.
36 #CMYCALIFORNIA Vanessa Prager’s painterly photo diary.
41 C WHAT’S HOT Punk’s not dead, says Alejandro Gehry. Sqirl makes a play for the bookshelf. Lighting up at Jessica Silverman Gallery’s pop‑up.
53 C FASHION Fendi hits the road. Christopher Kane goes down memory lane. Elizabeth and James bows at The Grove.
48
65 C BEAUTY Dior celebrates its 50th in living color. Christian Louboutin debuts his first set of fragrances. Victoria Tsai’s geisha‑inspired must‑haves.
TOC 2
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69 C DESIGN Studio Collective nails West Coast cool. An S.F. artist spends the year in knots. Betsy Burnham plays interior dress‑up.
75 C MENU Breadheads Chad Robertson and Liz Prueitt debut Tartine Manufactory in the Mission. Silver Lake’s tasty new eateries.
81 C TRAVEL
42
54
Photographer and jewelry designer Lisa Eisner’s inside track on Jackson Hole.
85 C CULTURE Tom Sachs’ new show blasts off at YBCA. Matthew Aucoin changes the face of opera. L.A.’s can’t‑miss art happenings.
135 SHOPPING GUIDE 136 WHEN IN Downtown Los Angeles sets the stage for this season’s street style.
138 PHOTO FINISH Actor Zoe Lister‑Jones is calling the shots. C 26 OCTOBER 2016
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FENDI (P.53): COURTESY OF FENDI. GEHRY (P.48): JESSICA SAMPLE. CHAIR (P.72): TERI LYN FISHER. TABLE (P.42): JAIME BEECHUM. EXOTOURISME (P.42): COURTESY OF DOMINIQUE GONZALEZFOERSTER AND 303 GALLERY, NEW YORK. CALVIN KLEIN (P.54): THOMAS GIDDINGS
CONTENTS
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G E T I N S P I R E D AT K O H L E R . C O M / D R E A M
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Founder & Editorial Director LESLEY CAMPOY
President & Publisher JENNY MURRAY
Editor
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RENEE MARCELLO
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CRISTA VAGHI
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San Francisco Editor-at-Large Diane Dorrans Saeks Contributing Editor-at-Large Kendall Conrad Senior Contributing Editor Melissa Goldstein Contributing Photo Assistant Chad Weaver Contributing Designer Gabrielle Mirkin Copy Editors Richard Cordova, Lily Maximo Villanueva Special Projects Contributor Stephanie Steinman Contributing Editors Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith, Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson Contributing Writers Schuyler Bailey, Catherine Bigelow, Caroline Cagney, Heather John Fogarty, Marshall Heyman, Emily Holt, Christine Lennon, Martha McCully, Degen Pener, Jessica Ritz, S. Irene Virbila
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FOUNDER’S LETTER
You don’t need to live in California to know our corner of paradise is having its moment in the sun (pardon the pun!). Around the world, the Golden State is stealing the spotlight as a defining force in food, fashion, technology and culture. It is these artisans, in all realms of their mediums, who are pushing California into the forefront of the cultural movement. While L.A. may be considered by a certain set to be the center of the zeitgeist, we are lucky to have creative geniuses based throughout the state. As this is our annual art-focused issue, we chose to highlight the artists driving the conversation across California, from north to south. Starting in San Francisco, we pay a visit to art power couple Barry McGee and Clare Rojas at their respective studios, ahead of their participation in a grand new public arts endeavor, Sites: Unseen. We also scored a coveted invitation to ubercollector and arts patron Chara Schreyer’s Marin house. Like her many homes around California, this abode is a private museum of sorts, as witnessed in her new Assouline-published book, Art House. A peek into her world is as fascinating as it is inspiring. While up north, a tour of the plethora of world-class cultural institutions is a must—including, of course, the Legion of Honor. It is here, in the illustrious Salon Doré, that we showcase Parisian designer Andrew Gn and his local philanthropic clients, who don his gala-worthy gowns to the city’s numerous opening-night soirees. That Gn makes San Fran his first stop in California says a lot about the sartorial power coming from the City by the Bay. Further down the coast, we head to the hills of Malibu to shoot buzzed-about sibling rockers the Atomics. Made up of supermodel Lucky Blue Smith and his genetically blessed siblings Daisy Clementine, Pyper America and Starlie, the band marks C ’s first group cover. And who better to capture these model-musicians than fine art photographer Mary McCartney (daughter of musician Sir Paul and his late photographer wife, Linda, and sister to designer Stella), who grew up in the industry. Model and artist Jane Moseley also knows what it’s like to come from a creative family. Her horror-actor father exposed Moseley to the macabre at a young age through cult fright flicks, which now manifests itself in her zombie-filled paintings and selfdesigned, fantasy-world tattoos. For this issue’s fashion portfolio, we present the L.A. native in the season’s best military-inspired looks. Surrounded by some of the world’s most majestic scenery, it’s easy to see why the art world is drawn to our shores. Combined with a supportive community of top galleries, world-class museums and art patrons, it’s a recipe for success any way you look at it (even if you are peering through artist Alex Israel’s Freeway sunglasses). We are at the center of the cultural wave, and it’s safe to say we are enjoying the ride.
JENNIFER HALE
Founder & Editorial Director We’d love to hear from you. Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.
C 30 OCTOBER 2016
JAN WELTERS
Founder’s Letter
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C PEOPLE Who’s who behind the scenes of this month’s issue, plus their favorite California places
Chris McMillan
C People
Allison Berg “[Chara] reminds us that being surrounded by art is a privilege accompanied by social responsibility,” says writer Allison Berg of collector Chara Schreyer. Berg details Schreyer’s gallerylike residences in “Tour de Force,” p.104, along with L.A.’s buzzy culture-scape in “Enjoy the View,” p.86. The founding editor of Collectista and an ambassador for The Armory Show, Berg also serves on art leadership councils for museums such as LACMA. C SPOTS • Urban Radish is my favorite quickie eatery when gallery-hopping in L.A.’s Arts District • The Mistake Room, a nonprofit art space in Downtown L.A.• Anat Ebgi art gallery in L.A.—founder Anat has a keen eye for emerging contemporary talent
C 32 OCTOBER 2016
Andrew Gn “I was thrilled when C suggested we shoot our story at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco,” says Paris-based fashion designer Andrew Gn, who outfits Bay Area style-setters in his eponymous label’s opulent creations, featured in “Patrons’ Saint,” p.130. “I have a very special love for San Francisco and its people—the city offers a unique mix of classic tradition and instant modernity.” C SPOTS • Yank Sing restaurant for dim sum in the Financial District • The Asian Art Museum of San Francisco, which speaks so dearly to my Asian roots • The Legion of Honor Museum
Jennifer Maerz “Barry McGee’s art has long symbolized S.F.’s subculture to me,” says writer and editor Jennifer Maerz, who captures the respective studios of McGee and his wife, Clare Rojas, in “Divide & Conquer,” p.124. The former editor-in-chief of The Bold Italic, Maerz has written for Cosmopolitan and Rolling Stone online. C SPOTS • Gravel & Gold shop in S.F. for artistic fabrics, urban earth-mama vibes • Outerlands restaurant in S.F. for the laidback atmosphere • Henry Miller Memorial Library in Big Sur, where I’ve seen incredible bands perform in the meadow
J.R. Mankoff “It was fun to build a set that allowed the subject to have a confined space to work in,” says L.A.-based photographer J.R. Mankoff, who captured rising actor, director and producer Zoe Lister-Jones in C’s Photo Finish, p.138. When Mankoff isn’t snapping stars such as Ethan Hawke and Emily Blunt, he can be found working on his contemporary art projects. C SPOTS • The Angeles National Forest for some exceptional hikes • Leo Carrillo State Beach in Malibu to watch great surf, while playing in the tide pools • Yosemite Valley has some of the most picturesque views in the world
M c MILLAN: FRANK TERRY. MAERZ: MATTHEW SLETTEN. BERG: JAIME LOPEZ. GN: ANNE COMBAZ. MANKOFF: CHASE O’BLACK
“Their personalities are each so different,” says Chris McMillan, L.A.-based hairstylist and namesake Beverly Hills salon owner, of tending to the tresses of family rock quartet the Atomics in “Sibling Revelry,” p.92. He brought their individuality to light by “letting their hair drape down and be natural; we wanted to let them be free.” McMillan, whose celebrity clients include Jennifer Aniston, Anne Hathaway and Nicole Kidman, has created looks for the covers of Allure, Marie Claire, Vanity Fair and Vogue. C SPOTS • Rooftop yoga at Palihouse West Hollywood • Loteria Grill in L.A.’s The Original Farmers Market for breakfast • Honor Fraser Gallery in L.A.—Honor has guided me in all my art purchases
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Snapshots of The Golden State, as seen through the eyes of its biggest fans Edited by LINDSAY KINDELON
VANESSA Prager
Following her sold-out solo exhibition, “Voyeur,” in N.Y.C., the L.A. TALENT (and sister of photographer Alex Prager) is quickly winning over the art world with her dense, SCULPTURAL oil paintings. Inspired by her environs, she notes, “CALIFORNIA has the most amazing light—it’s bright and SATURATED and there’s a constant slight haze that fuzzes any imperfections.” Spoken like a true artist. vprager.com.
“This gallery’s arrival seems to mark a definite shift in the L.A. art scene.” 901 E. Third St., L.A., 213-943-1620; hauserwirthschimmel.com.
VANESSA PRAGER
CMYC
“A hidden oasis in the center of Downtown.”
720 Kohler St., L.A., 213-627-9621; inner-cityarts.org.
“The Ace Hotel beautifully restored this gothic theater.” 929 S. Broadway, L.A., 213-623-3233; acehotel.com.
“One of my favorite weekend trips— it has that movie-set feeling.”
Marco Bicego
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#CmyCALIFORNIA “Perfect weather and endless talent both here and traveling through makes a place like this possible.” 2301 Highland Ave., L.A., 323-850-2000; hollywoodbowl.com.
3333 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323-662-0985; ensoie.com.
VANESSA PRAGER
CMYC
“It’s run by a family of women who make the most luxurious silk clothes.”
“The combination of railroad, hard concrete of the river, graffiti and blue skies is a constant inspiration.” “Boyle Heights is very peaceful for Downtown and a perfect working environment.”
“I can’t get enough of chef Craig Thornton’s small undisclosed house location where he serves about 20 people in an open kitchen/dining room.” wolvesmouth.com.
Jimmy Choo
Vhernier
PERMANENT COLLECTION co-founders Fanny Singer and Mariah Nielson.
WH (opener)
Eyes on the Prize ROBIN STEIN
Edited by KELSEY McKINNON
“The word ‘curate’ gets overused, but it is exactly what we’re doing,” says Fanny Singer, writer, curator and co-founder of Permanent Collection, a new brand that collaborates with contemporary artists, designers, manufacturers and artists’ estates to create garments, home objects and accessories inspired by timeless design. Together with her friend, business partner and fel-
low curator, Mariah Nielson, the two (who divide their time between the Bay Area and London) have devised a capsule collection spanning coats to ceramic cups. The pair have impressive résumés in art and academia, and share a network of luminaries in the lifestyle communities. Nielson, who is the daughter of late NorCal sculptor J.B. Blunk, completed the Royal
OCTOBER 2016 C 41
Clockwise from left: Blunk Cups based on originals from Nielson’s late father, artist J.B. BLUNK, $350/set of four. Italian Sandals handmade by ATELIER ATTAL, $350. Barbara wool coat in black, $500.
SAN FRANCISCO
College of Art and the Victoria and Albert Museum’s program for her master’s in design history; Singer, whose mother is chef Alice Waters, is a writer and Yale alum with a Ph.D. in art history from Cambridge. Their cultured sensibility is apparent in the streamlined silhouettes and subtle color palette of each item. Clothing like the Agnes coat takes cues from a cocoon-like 1940s jacket belonging to Nielson, and objects such as the Blunk Cups are based on the artist’s organically shaped clay forms. A pair of cognac leather slides, dubbed, simply, the Italian Sandals, are a modern rendition of a vintage pair Nielson bought 15 years ago in a secondhand shop and are now being made by the duo’s beloved Parisian shoemaker, Atelier Attal. “We never position ourselves as designers,” insists Singer. “Our training informs how we choose things.” More familial collaborations are in the pipeline: one with Nielson’s mother, Christine, who founded bedding company Coyuchi, plus a highly anticipated line of kitchen items with Waters. Launching in tandem with Permanent Collection is the pair’s journal, Works on Paper. The collection-themed first issue in-
WH (turn)
cludes contributions from The New Yorker theater critic Hilton Als, artist Fritz Haeg and Joseph Becker, SFMOMA’s assistant curator of architecture and design. Through the brand and journal, Nielson and Singer are homing in on the intersection of art and fashion, not just in the way each piece is selected and created, but also in the way people purchase and collect. “We see the customer looking at these pieces as a long-term investment in the same way someone purchases art,” says Singer. “It’s about believing in the quality of the work.” permanentcollection.com. • MELISSA MAGSAYSAY
It’s a Sign From abstract neon sculptures to provocative fluorescent signs, a new exhibition, “Let There Be (More) Light,” explores politics, social critique and dialogue through an incandescent lens. Taking over the newly minted Jessica Silverman Gallery South (an intimate pop-up space across from its larger mainstay), the show features 22 installations from talents such as Nina Canell, the late Jason Rhoades, and L.A.-based Andrea Bowers, while nodding to early pioneers of the medium like Robert Irwin. Oct. 13-Nov. 19; 495 Ellis St., S.F., 415-255-9508; jessicasilvermangallery.com.
L.A. chef and entrepreneur JESSICA KOSLOW of SQIRL..
LOS ANGELES
Hit Parade
JONATHAN MONK’s Fall, 2011.
C 42 OCTOBER 2016
When it comes to popular recipes in Jessica Koslow’s first book, Everything I Want to Eat: Sqirl and the New California Cooking (Abrams, $40), it’s a toss-up between her sorrel pesto rice bowl and ricotta toast—staples at her cult-status Silver Lake eatery. “It’s like Michael Phelps versus Usain Bolt—both brilliant and not comparable,” she says. The book also features Koslow’s signature jams plus new recipes that may eventually work their way onto the restaurant’s menu. “I am interested in everyday dishes that people never knew they wanted,” says Koslow, who is also focused on a new dining concept opening in spring 2017. sqirlla.com.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D I MEGLIO AND LESLEY M C KENZIE. PERMANENT COLLECTION, COAT: ROBIN STEIN; SANDALS: DANIEL DENT; CUPS: DANIEL DENT. KOSLOW PORTRAIT AND BOOK COVER: CLAIRE COTTRELL, JAIME BEECHAM AND NACHO ALEGRE. FALL: COURTESY OF JONATHAN MONK AND CASEY KAPLAN, NEW YORK
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“I like seeing what results when people with different sets of experiences come together to create something new,” says Maggie Kayne,, a partner in Kayne Griffin Corcoran gallery on L.A.’s La Brea Avenue. (The gallery’s current show features mixed-media artists Mika Tajima and JeanPascal Flavien, on view through October 29.) Despite living in Brentwood, Kayne can usually be found frequenting haunts close to work (République, Mozza), often wearing the latest from sister Jenni Kayne’s eponymous collection. On her radar: experimental sculptor Rosha Yaghmai, whose work “brings together West Coast conceptualism with an L.A. slant,” says Kayne. Here’s what else is grabbing her attention. kaynegriffincorcoran.com.
10.
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WH (bits)
KAYNE: ANNABEL MEHRAN. 5.: CAPRA PHOTOGRAPHY. 7.: SIERRA PRESCOTT. 9.: LEE MANNING
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1. OLATZ silk pajamas, $750, olatz.com. 2. ROSHA YAGHMAI’s Awning, 2016, kaynegriffin corcoran.com. 3. DAWES We’re All Gonna Die album. 4. VICTORIA MORRIS Orb vase in Natural Speckle, $300, jennikayne .com. 5. PETIT TROIS restaurant, 718 Highland Ave., L.A. 6. BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE Serum A-Glyca, $125/1.02 fl. oz. 7. RÉPUBLIQUE restaurant, 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A. 8. THE ROW Fall/ Winter 2016. 9. KAYNE GRIFFIN CORCORAN art gallery, 1201 S. La Brea Ave., L.A. 10. PB 0110 shoulder bag, $800, jenni kayne.com.
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FRESH Picks Locally pressed olive oils and freshly gleaned chanterelles and turn up in kitchens from Point Reyes to Montecito, yet often the blooms gracing the same dining tables don’t share such regional provenance. Louesa Roebuck—known for the dramatic arrangements she’s devised for restaurants (Chez Panisse, Rintaro), special events, and her former Oakland clothing boutique, August—noticed the disconnect. “If we’re eating hyperlocally, we should do floral work in the same way,” says Roebuck, who splits her time between L.A. and the Bay Area. Now she and Remodelista co-founder Sarah Lonsdale have penned a book, Foraged Flora: A Year of Gathering and Arranging Wild Plants and Flowers (Ten Speed Press, $40), to document this botanical ethos. The result is a vibrant new volume out this month that’s filled with images and detailed descriptions of in-season, locally foraged nasturtiums, blooming magnolia branches and geometric seedpods adorning venues from Frog’s Leap winery in Rutherford to the
Venice loft of art director Tamotsu Yagi. The inventive book, shot by S.F.-based photographer Laurie Frankel, depicts 12 site-specific monthly installations (plus an extra composed of the dried remnants Roebuck collected throughout the project). Lonsdale, who lives in the Napa Valley, says her first glimpse of Roebuck’s largescale arrangements “completely changed my way of seeing what is around us in nature.” Roebuck says, “It used to be romantic to give an imported flower, but what should actually be desirable is what’s flourishing here now.”
WH (bits) A magnolia arrangement inside San Francisco’s QUITOKEETO shop.
LES PARFUMS LOUIS VUITTON Rose Des Vents, Turbulences and Dans La Peau, each $240/100 ml.
PETAL Pusher After 70 years, Louis Vuitton is taking on the fragrance world again with the launch of Les Parfums Louis Vuitton, seven scents that each represent a separate journey. Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud spent months traveling the world in search of inspiration. “I wanted to tell real stories on the skin,” he says. Standouts include Apogée (May rose, smoky guaiac wood, still-green lily of the valley) and Dans la Peau (leather, Arabian jasmine, narcissus). louisvuitton.com.
C 46 OCTOBER 2016
PAIGE APPEL and KELLY HARRIS.
CULVER CITY
Mix Message “We wanted to create a place of permanence that allowed for a slower life and a place we could showcase artisans, craftsmen and designers we have met through the years of event planning,” says Paige Appel, co-founder of the new Midland boutique and one half of the creative duo behind styling and event-production team Bash, Please. Housed in Culver City, the shop stocks everything from vintage Navajo turquoise to imported African baskets and clothing from up-and-coming and established brands alike. “Come in and hang out,” encourages co-founder Kelly Harris, “and maybe leave with a vintage Carly Simon record or some cool sunglasses.” 8634 Washington Blvd., C.C.; shop-midland.com.
WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH VARNELL, CAROLINE CAGNEY AND LESLEY M C KENZIE. FLOWERS: LAURIE FRANKEL. MIDLAND: MAX WANGER
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HEROES Welcome
From his Venice studio, artist ALEJANDRO GEHRY pays homage to MUSICIANS who are LARGER than LIFE
WH (bits)
C 48 OCTOBER 2016
Cramps. She’s a bit more rockabilly—she always looks like she is going to hit you,” he says appreciatively of the guitarist. Gehry has been working on this canon for two years; it follows Empires Make Up —paintings whose jumping-off point was World War I headwear and its evolution from decorative to protective (an array of real-life examples sits on a nearby shelf). He layered modern meaning over that start, conflating the war’s centennial with the debate over women in combat, and the repeal of “don’t ask, don’t tell,” via scenes
JESSICA SAMPLE
“When people think about punk, they think about the Ramones, the Sex Pistols and Iggy Pop,” says artist Alejandro Gehry, as he walks through his Venice studio, his voice an echoing pinball between the cement floors and the 14-foot-high ceilings. “They tend to not think about the powerful, talented women.” His latest oversize canvases, currently blanketing the walls of the industrial space and depicting fierce musical heroines including Joan Jett, Siouxsie Sioux and Penelope Houston, seek to right that wrong. He gestures to one of his muses, a woman with a mop of red curls wearing a tiara and a lip-curling scowl, glorified in brash oil paints against a backdrop of photo-realistic, black-and-white Xeroxed fliers. “That’s Poison Ivy from the
Clockwise from left: ALEJANDRO GEHRY’s portrait of JOAN JETT. The artist in his studio, with portraits of SIOUXSIE SIOUX, GAYE ADVERT, PENELOPE HOUSTON and EXENE CERVENKA. Vintage military headwear, the inspiration for his WWI-themed series. A smattering of oil paints at the ready.
Mandarin Oriental
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WH (bits) depicting female soldiers from opposing sides in the Great War in lustful encounters. He teaches one day a week at the Los Angeles County High School for the Arts; the other days he’s here—a short commute from his home upstairs. He lives there with his wife and fellow artist, Carrie Jenkins. Though their aesthetics are distinct (he’s influenced by an outré ’80s sensibility; her work feels dreamier, with rebellious undercurrents), the two share an illustrative quality and a love for things figurative and feminist. The artist attributes his career in part to his father, architect Frank Gehry, who recognized his son’s aptitude for visual learning at a young age, thanks to an interest in the creative output of his dad’s social circle. “At 3 or 4 years old, I could recognize the paintings of some of his friends: Ellsworth Kelly, Sam Francis, Ed Moses—these guys that I sort of grew up hanging out with,” Gehry says.
C 50 OCTOBER 2016
Clockwise from above left: A portrait of TESSA POLLITT. A mood board containing a drawing of Bugs Bunny and a Chantal Joffe poster. The artist with paintings from his Empires Make Up series.
He attended RISD, majoring in illustration—a choice influenced by his childhood affinity for superhero comics and, later, independent graphic novels by the likes of Adrian Tomine. In 2001, a commission for murals for the Issey Miyake store in New York set him on his current path, and contained a symbolic clue to the antiestablishment themes that would recur: a safety pin in his subjects’ ears. “I wouldn’t call myself a punk but the movement has always been an influence in my work, my style, music and politics— especially with what is going on politically right now,” he says. “I have always pushed boundaries…if that isn’t punk, I don’t know what is.” alejandrogehry.com. • MELISSA GOLDSTEIN
JESSICA SAMPLE
From left: In the studio, portraits of POISON IVY (left) and JENNIFER MIRO (right). In the distance, Empires Make Up, #9. A portrait of KARLA MADDOG.
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FENDI’s traveling pop-up concept in a customized Apé.
COURTESY OF FENDI
Fashion (opener)
One for the Road Edited by
ALISON EDMOND
Fendi is taking a cue from California’s favorite pastime for its fall stateside foray. As part of its cross-country #FendiRoadTrip, the luxury Italian label is making two pit stops in L.A. by way of a can’t-miss cherry-red Apé. Inside, find the brand’s furry ABCharms (including a pom-pom resembling a monsterfied version of Cre-
ative Director Karl Lagerfeld), swappable embellished Strap You bag straps, and its latest must-have Dotcom handbag. Shop the three-wheeled pop-up truck when it parks at the annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades (October 15) and at The Grove (October 19-21). fendi.com. • DANIELLE DIRECTO-MESTON
OCTOBER 2016 C 53
POP & SUKI camera bags, $195/each. Left: POPPY JAMIE and SUKI WATERHOUSE.
LOS ANGELES
At the Hip The notion behind best friends Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse’s new venture, Pop & Suki, came about in quintessential British fashion: “We were drinking tea one night, having our usual daily debrief, and then started fantasizing about what our dream bag might look like,” says Jamie, a TV presenter-turned-entrepreneur. The pair—who met at Hollywood Roosevelt
haunt Teddy’s after each relocating to L.A. from London in 2013 to pursue their respective careers in fashion and entertainment—then crossed paths with fellow Brit and entrepreneur Leo Seigal and “set about our collective mission as pasty Brits abroad,” laughs Waterhouse. Enter their covetable debut of friendship-inspired, minimalist accessories that nod to ’60s mod, featuring dainty jewelry pieces and charms as well as a monogram-ready camera bag and tote—sheathed in options like cotton-candy-pink suede and cognac leather—and leather attachments (tassels, luggage tag, half hearts). With each piece they create, the girls’ BFF status is further cemented: “We have given birth to a child now; her name is Pop & Suki,” Waterhouse quips. “Parenthood has inevitably made us stronger.” popandsuki.com.
SANTA MONICA
Point Break “I love costumes, I love beautiful textiles. It’s just fundamental to the fiber of my being,” says self-taught embroidery artist and teacher Michelle Kingdom. The Burbank-based former fashion designer began sewing small tapestries decades ago, eventually spinning her hobby into a secondary career over the last two years. Kingdom’s latest collection of women-focused works explores themes of relationships, domesticity and identity. Her fall solo show will hold court all of October at Bergamot Station’s bG Gallery. 2525 Michigan Ave., S.M., 310-906-4211; michellekingdom.com; @michelle.kingdom.
Fashion (turn)
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION cashmere rib dress, $1,195.
COVER UP From above: MICHELLE KINGDOM’s hand embroidery on linen: What is done cannot be undone and The world would continue without us, 2015.
In contrast to the revival of its iconic ’90s underpinnings this past spring, Calvin Klein Collection is covering up for Fall/Winter 2016 with its Cashmere Collection, a new offering of foundational pieces in a variety of monochrome hues. The 23-silhouette range also comprises off-duty staples like featherweight tees, ribbed turtlenecks, drawstring joggers, sweater dresses and cardigans—all spun from deluxe Italian threads. calvinklein.com.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE DIRECTO-MESTON AND LINDSAY KINDELON. SUKI WATERHOUSE (2): COURTESY OF POP & SUKI. CALVIN KLEIN: THOMAS GIDDINGS. TEXTILES (2): MICHELLE KINGDOM
FASHION
The Outnet
MAX MARA limitededition black beaded coat (far left), $10,890, and wool cashmere coat in Oatmeal, $3,490.
CHRISTOPHER KANE Atomic print sweatshirt, $345.
BEVERLY HILLS
Epic Proportions Max Mara’s famed 101801 coat turns 35 this year. To mark the occasion: a modern refresh. Originally dreamed up by designer Anne-Marie Beretta in 1981, the Italian label’s signature camel cocoon silhouette is now available in Oatmeal and black. To celebrate the rerelease, Max Mara will host a series of events featuring archival prints by legendary photographer Roxanne Lowit, starring influencers in the iconic cashmere-wool coat. 451 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-385-9343; maxmara.com.
MARLIEN RENTMEESTER (left) and MARY ALICE HANEY. Below: HANEY x LE CATCH Marlien dress in cream, $350, also available in black and chambray.
PAST Perfect Christopher Kane is taking a trip down memory lane in honor of his cult-cool label’s 10-year anniversary. The Scotland-bred, London-based designer is reviving his fiercest prints as a capsule pullover collection. The 10-piece street-style-pleasing range includes designs such as a Technicolor mushroom cloud (pulled from U.S. government photos), an MRI brain scan, and that striking mid-roar chimp. christopherkane.com.
Fashion (bits) ELIZABETH AND JAMES at The Grove. Right: Morris coat, $1,855, Dahlia top, $195, and Tomboy jeans, $245.
LOS ANGELES
NICE Catch “Our styles are completely different; Marlien is much cooler than me,” says L.A.-based designer Mary Alice Haney of her longtime friend Marlien Rentmeester, who helms fashion blog Le Catch. The former fashion editors collaborated on a single piece for Haney’s made-inL.A. eponymous label, a venture that effortlessly embodies both of their California-cool aesthetics. “It is the perfect L.A. dress,” Rentmeester says, noting that its “conservative and covered-up” silhouette defines her high-low style, while sexy arm slits are a signature of Haney’s unabashed femininity. shophaney.com.
LOS ANGELES
Double Impact Nearly a decade in the making, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s first brick-and-mortar for their minimalist cool label Elizabeth and James has finally arrived. The CFDA award-winning designers (who also helm The Row) collaborated with architect David Montalba on the space, and hand-curated a scattering of vintage decor items to complement readyto-wear and accessories and to lend a hangout, meeting-place vibe. 189 The Grove Dr., L.A., 323-647-7111; elizabethandjames.us.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE DIRECTO-MESTON AND ALISON EDMOND. MAX MARA (2): COURTESY OF MAX MARA. LE CATCH (2): TOMMASO MEI. INTERIOR AND MODEL: COURTESY OF ELIZABETH AND JAMES
FASHION
Westfield Topanga
FASHION Trend
4.
2. 3.
1.
5.
BURBERRY September 2016 collection.
Fashion (bits)
11. 10.
AVANT Guard
1. OSCAR DE LA RENTA gold wisteria crystal brooch and chain, $590, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H. 2. VALENTINO crocodile bag, $14,875, and guitar strap, $1,045, Valentino, B.H. 3. TIFFANY & CO. Return to Tiffany bracelet, $3,550, Tiffany & Co., B.H. 4. CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION leather pumps, $895, calvinklein .com. 5. FURLA bag, $548, furla.com. 6. MARC JACOBS A Frame Checks bag, $7,000, Marc Jacobs, L.A. 7. STAZIA LOREN Sharra Tagano bracelet, circa 1960s, $1,250, Barneys New York, B.H. 8. GIORGIO ARMANI sunglasses, $1,120, Giorgio Armani, B.H. 9. TOD’S laceup boots, $1,155, Tod’s, B.H. 10. GUCCI leather bag, $2,980, Gucci, B.H. 11. JIMMY CHOO Romy pumps, $1,050, Jimmy Choo, B.H. 12. DIOR ring, $440, Dior, B.H.
MILITARY-inspired MILITARY -inspired looks are the ultimate uniform for FALL’S fashion ARSENAL
6.
8. 7. 9.
ALISON EDMOND. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.134
12.
The Grove
NORDSTROM • BARNEYS NEW YORK • TOPSHOP TOPM AN • ELIZABETH AND JAMES • SHINOL A • VINCE • SEPHORA APPLE • NIKE THE GROVE • J.CREW • J.CREW MENS SHOP • MICHAEL KORS • COACH • BRANDY MELVILLE AMERICAN GIRL PL ACE • ANTHROPOLOGIE • POT TERY BARN KIDS • PAIGE • BARNES & NOBLE BLUE RIBBON SUSHI BAR & GRILL • PACIFIC THEATRES AT THE GROVE • COMING THIS FALL: L ADURÉE ADJACENT TO THE ORIGINAL FARMERS M ARKET
3.
FASHION Trend 2. 1.
1. LONGCHAMP Roseau Panthère reversible tote, $810, longchamp.com. 2. MIU MIU faux shearling slides, $990, Miu Miu, B.H. 3. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Love Power saddle bag, $398, DVF, C.M. 4. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI cashmere fur sports wedges, $1,445, Brunello Cucinelli, B.H. 5. MICHAEL KORS Sloan shoulder bag, $298, michaelkors.com. 6. GUCCI Princetown zebra slippers, $995, Gucci, B.H. 7. PIERRE HARDY Reporter natural bag, similar styles available, pierrehardy.com. 8. ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO Gemma pumps, $850, Barneys New York, B.H. 9. MAX MARA sheepskin bucket bag, $1,450, maxmara.com. 10. MONCLER Osia Stivale wedge boots, $740, Moncler, B.H.
10.
Fashion (bits) 9.
COLD Play
SHEARLING adds a SOFT touch to fall’s COZIEST accessories
7. 8.
5. 6.
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4.
CHLOÉ Fall/ Winter 2016.
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FASHION Jewelry Box 1.
4. 2.
3.
1. JOHN HARDY Macan Spirit necklace, $36,000, johnhardy.com. 2. WENDY YUE flower cuff, $84,000, Neiman Marcus, B.H. 3. LAUREN WOLF JEWELRY snake-fang necklace, $1,200, Esqueleto, L.A. 4. ALEX SOLDIER Sunflower ring, $22,500, SFA, S.F. 5. ARMAN SARKISYAN stag locket, $16,960, Neiman Marcus, B.H. 6. TODD REED drop earrings, $12,320, Todd Reed, Venice. 7. FERAL JEWELRY antler bracelet, $4,800, feraljewelry.com. 8. CHOPARD Fleurs d’Opales ring, price upon request, Chopard, C.M. 9. VHERNIER Rosa earrings, $17,000, Vhernier, B.H. 10. COLETTE JEWELRY Desire ear cuff, $10,500, Colette Jewelry, L.A. 11. CARTIER Cactus de Cartier bracelet, price upon request, Cartier, B.H. 12. STEPHEN WEBSTER Love Me Love Me Not detachable earrings, $8,950, Stephen Webster, B.H.
GEORGIA O’KEEFFE’s Cow’s Skull with Calico Roses, 1931.
12.
Fashion (j box) 11. 10.
6.
Back to NATURE Head INTO THE WILD with FLORA and -inspired baubles FAUNA-inspired
7. 9.
8.
GEORGIA O’KEEFFE, AMERICAN, 1887-1986, COW’S SKULL WITH CALICO ROSES, 1931, OIL ON CANVAS, 91.4 × 61 CM (36 × 24 IN.), ALFRED STIEGLITZ COLLECTION, GIFT OF GEORGIA O’KEEFFE, 1947.712, THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.134
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Beauty (opener)
DIOR: THE ART OF COLOR features an exclusive portfolio from Peter Philips, fashion photographer Richard Burbridge and art director Marc Ascoli.
Blank Canvas Edited by
JENNY MURRAY
“Your makeup base is like a black-andwhite film,” muses Belgian-born luminary Peter Philips of the cinematic vision behind his striking facades, for whose artistry he has become renowned as creative and image director of Dior Makeup since 2014. “And then when you make a color movie, that’s when you really start to apply makeup, create looks, accessorize, and dress the face.” Now, toasting the 50th
anniversary of Dior cosmetics, the revered French fashion house is releasing Dior: The Art of Color (Rizzoli, $115), a visual journey of its rich artistry as told by Philips and his predecessors Serge Lutens and Tyen. Replete with styles like modern, goldtinged lids and classic scarlet lips, each of the 12 chapters delves into a full-spectrum collage of insight, inspiration and intrigue. dior.com. • DANIELLE DiMEGLIO
OCTOBER 2016 C 65
BEAUTY
Paris-born luxury footwear designer Christian Louboutin makes his first foray into fragrance this season with three distinct scents: Bikini Questa Sera (tuberose and jasmine), Trouble in Heaven (iris, patchouli, tonka absolute and amber) and Tornade Blonde (rose, violet and cassis). Model, actress, film director and social entrepreneur Elisa Sednaoui served as muse: “Elisa is one woman who is many women,” says Louboutin, who is Sednaoui’s godfather. “She’s the personification of the fragrances, which are intended to express women’s many changing facets.” christianlouboutin.com.
Clockwise from above: CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. Tornade Blonde, $275. Sketches of the blownglass bottles in collaboration with Heatherwick Studio.
Beauty (turn) JOANNA VARGAS’ L.A. salon. Below: Daily Hydrating Cream, $75.
The C List VICTORIA TSAI
WEST HOLLYWOOD
Glow Time New York facialist Joanna Vargas has garnered a fervent following for her cutting-edge technologies and natural skin-care treatments. Now, she opens the doors to her first West Coast salon in West Hollywood. Try the Full Body Detox Peel, an exclusive-to-L.A. regimen that begins with microdermabrasion followed by a decadent raw-coconut rub infused with omega-3 fatty acids (from $250). 212-949-2350; joannavargas.com.
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In 2009, while visiting Kyoto, Japan, San Francisco denizen Victoria Tsai discovered an ancient book of geisha beauty secrets, which she brought to life with the launch of her brand, Tatcha, later that year. “I was amazed to learn that the geisha’s skincare practice relies on ingredients identical to the Japanese diet: seaweed, green tea and rice,” says Tsai of the three staples that form the basis of her luxe formulas. We asked Tsai how she stays balanced. • Nijiya Market in S.F. for Japanese pantry essentials. nijiya.com. • Yolanda Mata in L.A., whose facials focus on lymphatic drainage—I always leave with a sculpted face. yolanda@tatcha.com. • True Sake for the handcrafted sake in stunning packaging. truesake.com. • The Japanese Tea Garden in Golden Gate Park. japanese teagardensf.com. • Tatcha Luminous Deep Hydration Revitalizing Eye Masks when I travel. tatcha.com.
WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY. LOUBOUTIN PORTRAIT: GYOME DOS SANTOS; ILLUSTRATION: HEATHERWICK STUDIO. VARGAS SALON: LILY KING. TSAI: MIKI
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THE BUNGALOW’s new STUDIO COLLECTIVE-designed Huntington Beach address is anchored by a mix of custom leather sofas and club chairs.
Edited by ANDREA STANFORD
JUSTIN COIT
Design (opener)
Cool & Collected The DREAM TEAM behind boutique DESIGN firm Studio Collective is creating HANDSOME interiors with a WEST COAST blueprint OCTOBER 2016 C 69
DESIGN Santa Monica-based design firm Studio Collective—founded by Leslie Kale, Christian Schulz and Adam Goldstein—has left its hospitality mark on locales up and down the coast, from Goleta getaway The Goodland to Sunset Strip’s macrameoutfitted eatery Estrella and Santa Monica’s bohemian hangout The Bungalow. (They recently debuted a second vintage surfinspired outpost in Huntington Beach.) Not bad for a firm that got its start only seven years ago (as a byproduct of the economic downturn, no less). But then again, the trio’s collective résumé reads like a who’s who of L.A. design; between them they’ve worked for Frank Gehry, Kelly Wearstler, Commune and Philippe Starck before joining forces in 2009. “We’ve been like the three musketeers ever since,” says Schulz.
The team’s next reveal, set to debut later this year, is Downtown’s newly renovated Hotel Figueroa. The studio will pull from the property’s past (originally opened in 1926 by the Young Women’s Christian Association, it has since become a quirky Moroccan-themed inn), reimagining its Spanish Mediterranean roots and commissioning art by L.A.-based female artists including large-scale portraiture by Alison Van Pelt. “We let the soul of a project be the guide,” notes Kale. With each new endeavor, the studio continues to build upon the creative resurgence of the city and expound on their definition of California cool around the state and beyond. Says Goldstein, “We feel like we’re just getting started.” studiocollective.com. • LINDSAY KINDELON
On the grounds of the original La Grande Station, the design firm crafted new Arts District cocktail bar and eatery WESTBOUND to recall a luxury train from a bygone era.
SAN FRANCISCO
Counting Peru and Japan among her old stomping grounds, interior designer Maja Lithander Smith, owner of Found by Maja, a new home accessories boutique in S.F., has cultivated the sourcing skills of an expert treasure hunter. Impeccable handcraftsmanship and a strong sense of place guide Lithander Smith’s pursuit for far-flung finds, from custom Jaipurian rugs to Moroccan tasseled napkin rings. “There’s no substitute for storied design,” she says. 3484 Sacramento St., S.F., 415-780-1082; foundbymaja.com.
Design (turn) SAN FRANCISCO
Knotty Behavior Challenging herself to tie a different knot every day for a year, San Francisco artist and product designer Windy Chien knows well the ins and outs of such fascinating entanglements. “They can be a metaphor for life and its transitions,” says Chien, who has closely referenced her library of knot-tying books, which includes manuals on Chinese and Korean decorative knotting, for her 2016 project, The Year of Knots, and a recent large-scale rope installation at the IBM building in Cambridge, Mass. windychien.com.
From left: FOUND BY MAJA Indian hand-blocked napkins, $42/set of four, with Moroccan napkin rings, $15 each. Maja Lithander Smith.
In the Air AGRARIA X MONIQUE LHUILLIER AirEssence flower diffuser, $150, and perfume candle, $60.
C 70 OCTOBER 2016
“I always say a scented room is the definition of luxury,” says L.A.-based Monique Lhuillier, who has expanded her blossoming fashion empire to include a scent of her own, thanks to San Francisco home-fragrance brand Agraria. The Citrus Lily collection, inspired by the gardens surrounding her childhood home in the Philippines and a memorable sojourn to Positano, Italy, includes an AirEssence flower-shaped diffuser and perfume candle. agrariahome.com/moniquelhuillier.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D I MEGLIO AND LEILANI MARIE LABONG. WESTBOUND INTERIOR: ALEN LIN. CHIEN: MOLLY D E COUDREAUX. NAPKINS: GUILLERMO GUSILS LEON FOR FOUND. LITHANDER SMITH: VIVIAN JOHNSON. AGRARIA AND MONIQUE LHUILLIER: COURTESY OF AGRARIA HOME
Lost in FOUND
WINDY CHIEN beside her 2016 project, The Year of Knots, in her S.F. studio.
Experience the before and after
Š2016 California Closet Company, Inc. All rights reserved. Each franchise independently owned and operated. CA977608
California Closets
See her space before #CCBeforeAfter californiaclosets.com 8 0 0 . 2 74 . 6 7 5 4
DESIGN
Wild Thing A collection of 18th- and 19thcentury eel and fishing spears from JAYNE THOMPSON ANTIQUES. A copperplate engraving from Albert Seba’s Thesauri, 1734-1755, from ARADER GALLERIES.
“Animalia: Animal Imagery in Art & Antiques” is the theme of the 35th annual San Francisco Fall Art & Antiques Show, which will take place at Fort Mason’s Festival Pavilion from October 27-30. “Mankind has always been fascinated by animals, creating symbolism around their beauty and mystery,” says designer and event chair Suzanne Tucker, who has her eye on a stunning elephant image by Brazilian photographer Sebastião Salgado as well as a pair of bird-shaped aluminum candleholders by FrancoisXavier Lalanne. 2 Marina Blvd., S.F., 415-989-9019; sffas.org.
LOS ANGELES
Design (bits) From left: Betsy Burnham beside her WARDROBE BY BURNHAM DESIGN Ripley Wing Chair in Blue Oxford Cloth, $3,550, and Golightly Dining Chair, from $1,430. Miranda Dining Chair, from $1,460.
LOS ANGELES
Relaxed Fit When interior designer Betsy Burnham decided to launch her own furniture line, Wardrobe by Burnham Design, she looked no further than her own closet for inspiration. “I wanted to offer pieces in some of my favorite fabrics, including denims, chambrays, army and twill—all stuff I like to wear,” says Burnham, a former menswear designer for Gap whose 14-year-old namesake firm counts the Wallace Neff estate in Pasadena and a 15,000-square-foot residence in Lake Huron, Mich., as projects. “I think all
C 72 OCTOBER 2016
interior designers do at least one custom piece per job. I had all these designs and tear sheets from vintage pieces that I had collected and found at auctions,” she says. The result is a locally made line of finely tailored lounge chairs, sofas and dining chairs, each made-to-order with handcrafted upholstery. For Burnham, fashion and furniture design are inextricably linked: “My goal was to do something classic, but fresh, and it’s sort of the same when thinking about your wardrobe,” she says. “You don’t want to be so trendy that you have to throw everything away; you want it to last.” wardrobebyburnhamdesign.com.
HOME RUN After 15-plus years making her name in women’s fashion, Corey Lynn Calter is expanding her entrepreneurial path. “I started to regroup, and thought about the things around me that I love,” she explains. “A candle, a cashmere robe—the things that make me happy.” Her instinct toward nesting led her to CLC by Corey Lynn Calter, a rebranding of her clothing line, plus a range of lifestyle goods. Inspired in part by her William Krisel-designed home in Palm Springs, Calter focuses on creating new items and curating vintage pieces that eclectically define home and comfort for her, such as Moroccan rugs or fringed throw pillows. coreylynncalter.com.
CLC BY COREY LYNN CALTER Gentle Cactus cashmere throw, $620.
WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D I MEGLIO, LEILANI MARIE LABONG AND JESSICA RITZ. EEL AND FISHING SPEARS: COURTESY OF JAYNE THOMPSON ANTIQUES. ALBERT SEBA’S THESAURI: COURTESY OF ARADER GALLERIES. BETSY BURNHAM (2): TERI LYN FISHER. GENTLE CACTUS CASHMERE THROW: KIMBERLY GENEVIEVE
SAN FRANCISCO
How is this Antique?
SF Antiques Show
Why is this Modern?
— Benefiting Enterprise for High School Students — W W W . S F F A S . O R G /A D S
OCTOBER 27-30, 2016
|
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Edited by LESLEY McKENZIE
ANGIE SILVY
Menu (opener)
Dough-filled bread baskets at TARTINE MANUFACTORY.
Rise and Shine Chad Robertson and Liz Prueitt make a case for baked goods all day long at the Mission’s long-awaited TARTINE MANUFACTORY OCTOBER 2016 C 75
MENU
C 76 OCTOBER 2016
From top: CHAD ROBERTSON baking bread. HEATH CERAMICS bowls. A sample of LIZ PRUEITT’s pastries. Eggplant, stracciatella and Calabrian chilies sandwich.
L.A.’s COMMUNE DESIGN and S.F. architect CHARLES HEMMINGER envisioned the space. Below: The pastry case.
Menu (turn)
Robertson. “But they all derive from the original bakery, where it was accidental.” At the heart of the Manufactory is the Tesla of bread ovens, a central inferno that enables Robertson’s team to bake pastries and bread in a single spot. And coming soon is pizza, as well as Prueitt’s in-house Cookies & Cream soft-serve ice cream shop. These are the foods that Robertson and Prueitt want to eat all day, every day. And they’re not alone: “We were totally surprised [at the lines]—it’s kind of crazy,” says Robertson. He and Prueitt were expecting a few hundred customers on day one; 1,000 showed up instead. 595 Alabama St., S.F., 415-487-2600; tartinemanufactory.com. • FRANCESCA GILBERTI BURKE
ANGIE SILVY
“For three years I’ve been saying, ‘Where can I go in this city to get a bowl of broth, some beans and a hunk of fresh bread?’” says Chad Robertson, flour guru of San Francisco’s iconic Mission bakery, Tartine. The wait is over with this summer’s opening of Tartine Manufactory, the latest pilgrimage site for artisanal bread enthusiasts, from Robertson and his partner in pastry and life, Liz Prueitt. Housed within Heath Ceramics’ Mission District factory, Tartine Manufactory brings Prueitt’s internationally renowned pastries and Robertson’s coveted loaves together with breakfast, lunch, coffee, wine and eventually dinner under one industrial roof. Bulbous white Noguchi lanterns hang from the ceiling, giving the restaurant a dash of whimsy that balances the serious nature of its culinary enterprise, while stacks of Heath dishes stand at attention on shelves tiled in neutral hues. There are hearty sandwiches, a counter dedicated to Coffee Manufactory run by java expert Chris Jordan, and a marble wine bar where more than half of the list showcases vintners with a sustainable approach to winemaking, from Healdsburg’s Ryme to Napa Valley’s Keep Wines. Sweet and savory goods line the pastry case, from a smoked mozzarella, pepperoni and chive biscuit to a pistachio and almond tea cake— warming creations that feel like what you’d find in the couple’s home kitchen. There’s a sense of intimacy, as guests intermingle with cooks and baristas, that was engineered into the ethos of the space. “All of these things were intentional,” says
Š 2016 Landmark Vineyards. All Rights Reserved. LANDMARK, the Stylized L, and the accompanying logos are trademarks of Landmark Vineyards or its affiliates, Kenwood, CA. LV15753
The Wonderful Co N
ome for the wine. stay for the view. Visit the enchanting courtyard at Landmark Vineyards, nestled below wine country’s Mayacamas Mountains. Stroll our picnic area, play Bocce ball, and sip award-winning small-production Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs found only here at Landmark. And then, lose yourself in the view.
MENU
A row of NEW eating and drinking venues finds an instant fan base in SILVER LAKE “I think of Sawyer as the Beatles, and Kettle Black as the Stones,” says Beau Laughlin of the new Silver Lake restaurants he runs with business partners Brett Cranston and Jay Milliken. “Sawyer is light and fun, and pleases everybody. Kettle Black is a modern approach to a rustic aesthetic, with a rich and masculine design.” Though Paul and Ringo may take issue with the analogy, eager crowds have packed the houses since the doors opened this past summer. The team landed on a two-concept approach for making over what was previously a single, cavernous 7,000-squarefoot space on Sunset Boulevard, also home to Laughlin’s compact Clover Juice outpost (3707 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A.; cloverjuice.com), of which he is co-owner. Sawyer’s (3709 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323-641-3709; sawyerlosangeles.com) intricate tile patterns and quirky floral wall-
LOS ANGELES
Lunar Launch “The book truly is an organized version of what’s going on in my head,” says Amanda Chantal Bacon, founder of L.A. wellness destination Moon Juice, of her publishing foray, The Moon Juice Cookbook: Cosmic Alchemy for a Thriving Body, Beauty, and Consciousness (Pam Krauss Books/Avery, $30). “[It’s] things I’ve come to learn through my own healing process, the teachings of great doctors and herbalists, techniques from celebrated chefs I’ve worked with—
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Menu (bits) paper conspire for a lighthearted backdrop against which to savor California seasonal cuisine, including a farmers-market chop salad studded with root vegetables, apples, feta and pepitas in a tomato vinaigrette. Its greenery-enveloped patio quickly became the place for brunch. Two doors down at Kettle Black (3705 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323641-3705; kettleblackla.com), chef Sydney Hunter III serves a hearty menu of housemade Italian specialties. Octopus, egg-
all presented through the filter of my home.” Packed with recipes ranging from coconut yogurt to cured macadamia nut cheese, the book also includes helpful tips on stocking a plant-based pantry, not to mention a chapter dedicated entirely to raw chocolate. “I was born this way,” says Bacon of her love of cooking. “I liken it to the way some people can play music.” moonjuiceshop.com. AMANDA CHANTAL BACON inside MOON JUICE.
plant and cauliflower dishes are delicately charred in the wood-fired oven, while pizzas and pastas showcase top West Coast ingredients, as befits a chef whose résumé includes Bastide, Petit Trois and Superba Snack Bar. Local designers were also tapped: See Buck Mason’s uniforms and Brendan Ravenhill’s lighting. Carlos Anthony Lopez, who helped make Dinette and the Ace Hotel rooftop buzzy destinations, added custombuilt details, from the ceiling-height brass bar to marble-topped dining tables. Opening previously enclosed facades to the sidewalk has been key to the site’s transformation, explains Laughlin. “We saw people walking around, and knew they’d want this type of place,” he says. “These are the kind of restaurants you can go to a few times a month.” Crave-inducing food and endearing, yet sophisticated, design quirks galore? Sounds like the way to satisfy one of the country’s most creative neighborhoods.
WRITTEN BY JESSICA RITZ AND LESLEY M C KENZIE. PORTRAIT TOP LEFT: HARMONI EVERETT. INTERIOR: RYAN TANAKA. FOOD: KIM MAHAIR. PORTRAIT BOTTOM LEFT: YOSHIHIRO MAKINO. THE MOON JUICE COOKBOOK: ARRANGEMENT WITH PAM KRAUSS BOOKS, A MEMBER OF PENGUIN GROUP (USA) LLC, A PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE COMPANY. COPYRIGHT © 2016, AMANDA CHANTAL BACON
MOST Wanted
From left: Carlos Anthony Lopez, Beau Laughlin and Brett Cranston inside SAWYER. Steps away is their other collaborative venture, KETTLE BLACK. Below: Salt cod brandade at Sawyer.
Empty Vase
Roger’s Gardens
Edited by JENNY MURRAY
CAMERON NIELSON
Travel (opener)
Plateau beaded gloves, saddle by California Saddle Co., California-style spurs and Navajo concha belts (c. 1890-1930) at CAYUSE WESTERN AMERICANA.
Country Strong Wyoming native LISA EISNER returns to her WESTERN ROOTS and maps the best PIT STOPS along the way OCTOBER 2016 C 81
TRAVEL
“You can’t get more beauty! The minute you land under the Grand Tetons it just takes your breath away,” says Lisa Eisner, an L.A.-based photographer, jewelry designer, eclectic collector and connector, who grew up in Wyoming. “It’s not just about the town of Jackson Hole,” she says of the locale where her family vacationed in her youth. “It’s also the surrounding areas that make it so ideal: Yellowstone, Dubois and Cody—they’re all picture-perfect small Western towns.” Here, Eisner’s picks for doing Jackson Hole like a native. EAT AND DRINK Start your day with a Southern-style brunch (fried chicken and waffles, grits and eggs) at Cafe Genevieve (genevievejh.com). • A staple for more than 20 years, Snake River Grill (snake rivergrill.com) is a fine-dining go-to for New American cuisine, from the buffalo steak to the broiled Idaho trout. • Inside Grand Teton National Park, book Dornan’s (dornans.com) Chuckwagon restaurant for dinner overlooking the Snake River. • Million Dollar Cowboy Bar (milliondollar cowboybar.com) “has to be one of the most perfect Western bars in the world,” says Eisner. Open since 1937, the bar’s seats are saddles, the wood is knobbled pine, and taxidermied animals add to the authentic atmosphere. Don’t forget your boots—
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Travel (turn)
there’s swing dancing, six nights a week. SHOP Fighting Bear Antiques (fightingbear .com)—“for Thomas Molesworth furniture, Western paintings, Native American Indian beadwork, and rugs,” says Eisner. • “I have bought so many wonderful things from Cayuse Western Americana (cayusewa .com)—Western suits, paintings, Native
American Indian jewelry. The owner, Mary Schmitt, has a great eye.” STAY Perched on a hilltop, the Amangani resort (aman.com) has it all with sprawling views, from casual and finer dining to an incredible pool and spa. • Eco-resort Jenny Lake Lodge (gtlc.com) is at the foot of the Teton Range. “Built in the 1930s, the lodge has rustic log cabins and a fancy dining experience; it’s now almost impossible to book a stay a year in advance.” If you can’t snag a room, “you can at least hike around Jenny Lake and check out the scenery.” • Later this year, the Caldera House (calderahouse.com) will open its doors— a members-only hotel/condo property designed by L.A.’s own Commune, complete with restaurant and après-ski lounge. CAN’T MISS “I got married in the Chapel of the Transfiguration (stjohnsjackson .diowy.org). It’s a small cabin built in 1925 in the Grand Teton National Park. The pews are cut logs and the back wall is a big picture window that looks at the Tetons. It’s a Ralph Lauren dream!” • From fly-fishing to float trips and hiking, there’s no shortage of things on and around the beautiful, curvy Snake River (“they don’t call it that for nothing”). Don’t be surprised to see wolves, moose and bears. If you’re lucky, a bald eagle might cruise over you. •
AMANGANI POOL: COURTESY OF AMAN. EISNER PORTRAIT: GETTY IMAGES/PASCAL LE SEGRETAIN. OLD FAITHFUL AND RODEO GIRL (2): COURTESY OF LISA EISNER. CHAPEL: ISTOCK.COM/DAVID SUCSY. BAR: ISTOCK.COM/JERRY MOORMAN
Clockwise from left: The view from the AMANGANI pool. LISA EISNER. Eisner and her sister with Miss Wyoming at OLD FAITHFUL. CHAPEL OF THE TRANSFIGURATION in GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK. Welcome sign at the top of Teton Pass. Image from Eisner’s book RODEO GIRL. MILLION DOLLAR COWBOY BAR in Jackson Hole.
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Snøhetta expansion of the new SFMOMA; photo © Henrik Kam
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TOM SACHS, the artist behind San Francisco’s new intergalactic exhibition.
WRITTEN BY CATHERINE BIGELOW. MARIO SORRENTI
Culture (opener)
Travelin’ Man Edited by MELISSA GOLDSTEIN and
ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER
Space exploration is no simple task, so artist Tom Sachs didn’t pack light while installing his new intergalactic-themed exhibition at Yerba Buena Center for the Arts (YBCA) in San Francisco. “Four semitrucks,” he says, while texting his New York studio—mission control—to confirm a pivotal piece made it on board.
A meticulously plotted fantasy trip, “Space Program: Europa” (through January 15) is a herculean effort for Sachs and his studio. During the opening and closing weekends, Sachs’ “astronauts” will simulate a flight to Europa, the icy moon orbiting Jupiter. Upon “landing,” they’ll enact a traditional Japanese
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CULTURE tea ceremony and an “abduction” of a “Europan” from beneath the moon’s icy crust—then kill it, grill it and eat it, a la Izakaya-style barbeque. (Like you do.) It’s a warp-speed year for the red-hot sculptor: In March, New York’s Noguchi Museum mounted its first solo show devoted to an artist other than its namesake with “Tom Sachs: Tea Ceremony.” A month later, the Brooklyn Museum presented a pulsing, street sound installation, “Tom Sachs: Boombox Retrospective, 1999-2016.” In August, Apple Music debuted Frank Ocean’s album, Blonde, along with Endless, a visual collaboration with Sachs starring the hip-hop artist. Sachs, 50, received his B.A. from Bennington College, Vermont. After a twoyear stint in Los Angeles at Frank Gehry’s furniture shop, he moved in 1990 to New York. Inside his fun-house studio, Sachs builds his signature bricolage creations—conjuring handcrafted art from everyday materials (plywood, tampons, Tyvek fiber) that Continued on p.134
Culture (turn) MICKALENE THOMAS’ Do I Look Like a Lady? (Comedians and Singers), video still, 2016. Below: A detail from CHARLES GAINES’ Numbers and Trees: Central Park Series II: Tree #8, Amelia, 2016.
LOS ANGELES
Enjoy the View Despite the bling of rhinestone and rich textile patterns in MOCA’s “Mickalene Thomas: Do I Look Like a Lady?” at the heart of the artist’s multimedia work is a deeper examination of black female identity. Oct. 16-Feb. 6; 250 S. Grand Ave., L.A., 213-626-6222; moca.org. • At Hauser Wirth & Schimmel, Berlin-based contemporary artist Isa Genzken mounts “I Love Michael Asher,” a sculptural tribute to the late conceptual art pioneer. After, feast on-site at the buzzy, newly opened Manuela. Oct. 15-Dec. 31; 901 E. Third Street, L.A., 213-943-1620; hauserwirthschimmel.com. • Ry Rocklen reinterprets mundane objects into extraordinary sculptures using clay and industrial processes, juxtaposing
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the resulting 3-D objects with photos of the original forms. Through Oct. 22; 2622 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310-8370191; honorfraser.com. • Charles Gaines explores rule-based systems in his vibrant, hypnotic Numbers and Trees series at Susanne Vielmetter Los Angeles Projects. Oct. 21-Dec. 3; 6006 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310-837-2117; vielmetter.com. • Art-world insiders are abuzz about Jeff Zilm, a midcareer, Dallas-based abstract artist who creates petrified images using liquified emulsion from film reels mixed with acrylic paint. Catch his first L.A. solo show at Various Small Fires. Sept. 17-Oct. 22; 812 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 310-4268040; vsf.la. • Gucci is again sponsoring LACMA’s Art+Film Gala, the sixth annual installment co-chaired by Eva Chow and Leonardo DiCaprio, which this year honors Light and Space artist Robert Irwin and Oscar-winning filmmaker Kathryn Bigelow. Oct. 29; 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323857-6000; lacma.org. • In collaboration with the Coppel Collection in Mexico, The Mistake Room gallery presents a sprawling, intentionally chaotic spatial collage by Swiss contemporary artist Thomas Hirschhorn. Oct. 8-Dec. 10; 1811 E. 20th St., L.A., 213-749-1200; tmr.la.
WRITTEN BY CATHERINE BIGELOW AND ALLISON BERG. TEA CEREMONY AT NOGUCHI: JOHNNY FOGG. KAMA (KETTLE), 2015: GENEVIEVE HANSON. LANDING EXCURSION MODULE (LEM), 2007: JOSH WHITE. MICKALENE THOMAS, DO I LOOK LIKE A LADY? (COMEDIANS AND SINGERS) (VIDEO STILL), 2016, TWO-CHANNEL VIDEO PROJECTION (COLOR, SOUND), DIMENSIONS VARIABLE, 12:34 MINUTES, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST, LEHMANN MAUPIN, NEW YORK AND HONG KONG, AND ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK. JEFF ZILM, A HASH HOUSE FRAUD, 2016: COURTESY OF VARIOUS SMALL FIRES, LOS ANGELES AND SIMON LEE GALLERY, LONDON AND HONG KONG. CHARLES GAINES NUMBERS AND TREES: CENTRAL PARK SERIES II: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND SUSANNE VIELMETTER LOS ANGELES PROJECTS
Clockwise from left: Entrance to “Tom Sachs: Tea Ceremony” at the NOGUCHI MUSEUM in New York earlier this year. Landing Excursion Module (LEM), 2007. Kama (Kettle), 2015.
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CULTURE
FACE the Music
MATTHEW AUCOIN at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion. Below: Aucoin conducting during his residency at the Peabody Essex Museum in Massachusetts, 2013.
Forget what you know about OPERA: Wunderkind Matthew Aucoin is out to WIN hearts and MINDS in his new role
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Culture (bits) series for this fall, as well as gatherings in more intimate venues through LA Opera’s initiative Off Grand, such as The Theatre at Ace Hotel, where he’ll present a new live score to the 1922 silent film Nosferatu: A Symphony of Horror on October 29 and 31. The vibe will be more akin to cabaret. “The thing that only classical music can do is intimacy,” he says. “It’s best experienced up close.”
He’s taken what he calls an “unconventional path,” devoting himself fully to both composing and conducting. Landing in a city with its own unusual approach feels meant to be. “L.A. is the center of the new music universe,” he says. “The L.A. Philharmonic and Chamber Orchestra are both pioneers—I want LA Opera to do a similar thing.” During a three-year appointment created especially for him, Aucoin will conduct the ancient Egypt-set, Philip Glass-scored Akhnaten (which opens at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion on November 5) as well as two of his own productions— including a world premiere commissioned by LA Opera—while curating music and engaging new audiences. It’s a tall, energy-demanding order, but Aucoin seems particularly suited to it. “I’ve never felt especially young,” he says. “And I don’t think I’ll feel especially old.” • JENNIFER BLAISE KRAMER
PORTRAIT: BEN GIBBS PHOTOGRAPHY. CONDUCTING: JOHN ANDREWS
While teaching a vocal master class at the Music Academy of the West in Santa Barbara this summer, Matthew Aucoin looked every bit the college kid himself. Clad in dark jeans and a button-down, the 26-year-old Boston native was in constant motion—bursting from his seat to infuse his students’ singing with imagination. “Good composers follow the poetry,” he enthused, instructing a student to enunciate each “sticky Italian” word. “Great composers set the poetry on fire!” Aucoin has already been hailed by The New York Times Magazine as “opera’s great 25-year-old hope,” thanks to a résumé that spans a post as the youngest assistant conductor in the history of New York’s Metropolitan Opera/Lincoln Center; conducting debuts with the Chicago Symphony Orchestra and Rome Opera’s Orchestra; commissions from the Lyric Opera of Chicago and the American Repertory Theater in Cambridge, Mass.; and a collaboration with Yo-Yo Ma (he is also a pianist, a poet and an essayist). With degrees from Harvard and The Juilliard School, Aucoin (pronounced OH-coin) is now sharing his widely lauded talent with the West—as LA Opera’s first-ever artist in residence. In a bid to shift the genre’s stuffy image, he has dreamt up a late-night concert
Trunk Show Fall Forward in Style
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION
Miranda large French calf-leather shoulder bag, $1,090. 360 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-777-8862; South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., C.M., 714-557-5600.
DOLCE & GABBANA Iguana-skin leather Lucia handbag, $2,945. 312 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-888-8701; dolcegabbana.it.
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JIMMY CHOO
Mari 100 Velvet Bordeaux shoes, $895. 240 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-860-9045; Beverly Center, L.A., 310-855-9538.
JOE’S JEANS
The Icon Ankle in Saxton Destruction jeans, $179. 395 Santa Monica Pl., #171W, S.M., 310-458-6161; Nordstrom, South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., C.M., 714-549-8300.
LONGCHAMP
Paris Premier handbag, $1,950. South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., C.M., 714-436-1963; 114 Grant Ave., S.F., 415362-7971.
PROMOTION
Norton Simon
October 14, 2016–February 13, 2017
Norton Simon Museum
www.nortonsimon.org
Pablo Picasso (Spanish, 1881–1973), Long-Haired Young Girl, Nov 6–24, 1945, Lithographs, 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 6th and final states, Norton Simon Art Foundation, Gift of Jennifer Jones Simon © 2016 Estate of Pablo Picasso/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York
STATES MIND of
picasso lithographs 1945–1960
LUCKY BLUE SMITH wearing a CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION coat, $1,950, jeans, $525, cummerbund, $495, and a David Yurman ring, $3,900.
MARY M c CARTNEY. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.134
Feature (opener)
PYPER AMERICA, STARLIE, DAISY CLEMENTINE and LUCKY BLUE SMITH of THE ATOMICS are ready to blow up the MUSIC world
Feature (tbd)
MARY McCARTNEY ALISON EDMOND Written by JONATHAN HEY Photography by Styling by
All clothing DOLCE & GABBANA. On Starlie Smith (left): dress, $5,995. Belt, stylist’s own. JENNIFER MEYER ring, $675. On Pyper America Smith: dress, $4,995. ALISON EVANS earring, $300/pair, and bracelet, $790. BRUMANI ring, $4,585. On Lucky Blue Smith: jacket, $5,995, and jeans, $3,775. On Daisy Clementine Smith: dress, $3,845, collar, $1,895, bra, $545, and bottoms, $255. ALISON EVANS earring, $265/pair. Belt, stylist’s own.
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On Lucky: ROBERTO CAVALLI shirt, $8,110. DAVID YURMAN short necklace, $1,250, long necklace, $255, and ring, $1,150. JOHN HARDY ring, $350. Opposite, on Pyper: CHLOÉ dress, $3,950. JENNIFER MEYER earring, $675/pair. Bra and underwear, stylist’s own.
Feature (tbd)
Lucky Blue
@luckybsmith NICKNAME: Deluxe. HIDDEN TALENT: Yo-yo. FAVORITE ITEMS IN YOUR CLOSET: Gold silk bomber jacket and Grand Prix jacket. PERSONAL STYLE: Modern retro. GUILTY PLEASURE: Takis chips and a Coke. DREAM MUSIC COLLAB: The Black Keys. SONGS CURRENTLY ON REPEAT: House of Pain’s “Jump Around” and James Brown’s “I Feel Good.”
Pyper America
@pyperamerica NICKNAME: Pippy, Pyps. FIRST ALBUM: Songs About Jane, Maroon 5. HIDDEN TALENT: Reading people’s minds. FAVORITE LABEL/DESIGNER: Hedi Slimane, Alexander Wang, Riccardo Tisci. GUILTY PLEASURE: McDonald’s Chicken McNuggets. DREAM MUSIC COLLAB: The Black Keys. SONGS CURRENTLY ON REPEAT: Cage the Elephant’s “Trouble,” Hidden Charms’ “Love You Cause You’re There” and Tame Impala’s “The Moment.”
Feature (tbd)
Daisy Clementine
@daisyclementine NICKNAME: Dais. FIRST ALBUM: Hoku’s self-titled album. I loved her song “How Do I Feel.” HIDDEN TALENT: Sleuthing. FAVORITE ITEM IN YOUR CLOSET: My Saint Laurent bomber jacket. GUILTY PLEASURE: Watching The Bachelor. DREAM MUSIC COLLAB: Cage the Elephant, Tom Petty or Dick Dale. SONG CURRENTLY ON REPEAT: Leon Bridges’ “Coming Home.”
Starlie
@queenstarlie NICKNAME: Starfish, Star. FIRST ALBUM: Christina Aguilera’s self-titled album—so many good songs. HIDDEN TALENT: I’ve been told I know how to make people feel loved. FAVORITE LABEL/DESIGNER: House of CB and Saint Laurent. GUILTY PLEASURE: This funny iPhone game called Virtual Families. DREAM MUSIC COLLAB: Kendrick Lamar. SONG CURRENTLY ON REPEAT: Frank Ocean’s “Pink Matter,” featuring Andre 3000.
Feature (tbd)
All clothing PRADA. On Lucky: coat with collar, $4,060, and pants, $1,400. DR. MARTENS shoes, $255. DAVID YURMAN ring, $3,900. On Pyper: dress, $4,115, necklace, $750, and boots, price upon request. ANNE SISTERON Horn bracelet, $2,765. JOHN HARDY bracelet, $2,300. On Daisy: dress, $3,420, corset, $895, belt, $445, and shoes, price upon request. JOHN HARDY chain bracelet, $1,800. DAVID YURMAN bracelet, $1,800. MARCO BICEGO bracelet, $2,290. JEWELISTA rings, $325$635. On Starlie: dress, $6,410. JEWELISTA earring, $675/pair. JENNIFER MEYER rings, $2,150, and $1,895. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN shoes, $1,145.
Feature (tbd)
On Daisy: ROBERTO CAVALLI gown, $18,015. ROCKINS scarf, price upon request. JEWELISTA hoop earring, $550/pair, and stud earring, $375/ pair. DAVID YURMAN ring set, $1,900. CHLOÉ boots, $995. Opposite, on Starlie: GUCCI jacket, $4,200, and T-shirt, $750. BRUMANI earring, $2,650/pair. ANNE SISTERON oval stone ring, $2,580, and Electric ring, $1,170.
Feature (tbd)
All clothing ROBERTO CAVALLI. On Lucky: shirt, $8,110, and jeans, $515. DAVID YURMAN short necklace, $1,250, and long necklace, $255. On Starlie: gown, $28,825. BRUMANI earring, $5,500/pair. ANNE SISTERON Slink ring, $1,305, and Taureau ring, $395. On Pyper: blouse, $4,805. Bra, stylist’s own. On Daisy: gown, $18,015. ROCKINS scarf, price upon request.
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CREDITS
Feature (tbd)
“We can just groove together because we know each other so well,” says Pyper America Smith, bassist for the Atomics, the band she and her three siblings formed together in the family basement. It’s the morning before a show in their home state of Utah, and it’s clear that none of the musical clan are remotely nervous; after all, we’re talking about a quartet who are as comfortable on stage as they are in front of a camera, modeling for the world’s biggest fashion brands. At 18 years old and a strapping 6-foot2, drummer Lucky Blue is perhaps the most famous and also the youngest of the Smith family. He is known for his electric-blond hair and his 2.5 million Instagram followers—a group that dubs themselves “Lucky Charms,” who follow his every modeling move, including campaigns for Tom Ford, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. Then there are his older sisters: Pyper, 19, who often shares the modeling spotlight with her brother; guitarist Daisy Clementine, 21, the first of the genetically blessed family to be discovered as a model; and the eldest, raven-haired Starlie, 23, whose sole focus has always been a career in music. The idea to start a family band began in 2004, when their semiprofessional musician father, Dallon, gave all four children instruments as part of a rock-’n’roll-themed Christmas. Starlie, who used to put on living-room performances set to Britney Spears songs for the family, was an easy front-runner for lead vocals. Mom Sheridan, a former model, would customize and tailor pieces for their wardrobes—though these days, the siblings are sartorially well-versed enough that they steer a lot of their own style choices. Inspired by the music played on their parents’ car stereo—the Ventures, Dick Dale, Agent Orange, the Beach Boys and the Surfaris—the Atomics began practicing covers. In 2009, they played their first gig, a summer car show in their town of Spanish Fork. A year later at age 14, Daisy was discovered at a casting call in Salt Lake City, and that summer, the family took a vacation to Los Angeles for Daisy to do some test shoots and meet her modeling agency, Next Management. But instead of just one Smith sibling landing a contract, the whole brood walked out with a deal, their musical
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All clothing RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION/RALPH LAUREN. On Starlie: coat, $5,190. JENNIFER MEYER ring, $825. On Lucky: jacket, $4,995, and shirt, $695. DAVID YURMAN bracelet, $3,400. On Daisy: dress, $4,990. On Pyper: dress, $12,000. JEWELISTA bangles, $800 each.
aspirations inadvertently taking a backseat. Family campaigns for the likes of Gap, Farfetch and H&M have since followed, with Pyper, Lucky and Daisy pursuing successful individual modeling careers, too. Late last year, the band signed to Simon Fuller’s XIX Entertainment. With the American Idol creator guiding them as their new manager and partner, the Atomics are back in studio, crafting material for a
debut album and cultivating a sound that draws upon the likes of Aretha Franklin, Dick Dale, Keith Moon and Red Hot Chili Peppers bassist Flea for inspiration. “It’s surf [rock]-influenced with a cool groove,” says Starlie. Despite appearing in dozens of editorials, the Smiths feel most creative when they are performing in the Atomics. “I can have the most opinions. There’s more room to do what you want,” says Lucky. And he has no shortage of healthy ambition—from selling out stadiums with the Atomics to achieving global acclaim as an actor. To the latter end, he is already repped by CAA and recently shot his first independent movie, Love Everlasting, directed by Rob Diamond. The film is currently awaiting a release date.
Mom Sheridan, a former model, would CUSTOMIZE AND TAILOR pieces for their wardrobes—though these days, the siblings are sartorially WELL-VERSED enough that they steer a lot of their own STYLE choices. C 102 OCTOBER 2016
The three sisters are equally motivated and confident. On top of her strong modeling career, Pyper, like Lucky, wants to act: “I want to be Meryl Streep,” she says, only half joking. Daisy, a big reader, aspires to writing poetry or fiction; yet, in true millennial fashion, she also sees room for another career: a beauty company because “I’m obsessed with makeup,” she admits. Starlie is in the early stages of starting a fashion line but, in the meantime, recently wrote a short film as a means of “emotional release” following a breakup. For now, their careers and personal lives are deeply intertwined, with the foursome traveling, working and living together with their parents in Glendale. “I think we get along better than your average siblings,” muses Daisy. “Being in a band has only helped our relationship.” Adds Lucky, “We all take care of each other.” Catch the Atomics on Oct. 19 at The Roxy, 9009 Sunset Blvd., W.H., 310-2789457; theroxy.com. •
PROP STYLIST: CARL DOVE AT ART DEPARTMENT. FASHION ASSISTANT: RAINA SILBERSTEIN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.134
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All clothing MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION/MICHAEL KORS. On Daisy: dress, $9,995. ALISON EVANS earring, $300/pair. ANNE SISTERON stone ring, $2,580. JENNIFER MEYER rings, $450-$2,000. FIORENTINI + BAKER boots, $350. On Lucky: blazer, $595, and shirt, $175. On Starlie: dress, $12,995. LAUREN WOLF JEWELRY thick band ring, $75, and ring, $100. JENNIFER MEYER hoops, $675/pair. ANNE SISTERON earring, $4,390/ pair. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN boots, $1,250. On Pyper: dress, $7,995. LAUREN WOLF JEWELRY hoop earring, $180/pair. DAVID YURMAN ring, $500. HAIR Chris McMillan at Solo Artists for Living Proof. MAKEUP Jo Strettell at Tracey Mattingly. NAILS Tom Bachik at Cloutier Remix for L’Oréal Paris.
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From Los Angeles to San Francisco, collector CHARA SCHREYER and her five RESIDENTIAL collaborations are greater than the sum of her ART. Case in point: her Marin MASTERWORK
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MATTHEW MILLMAN Written by ALLISON BERG Photography by
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The central staircase with KEITH TYSON’s Tabletop, 2001, installed over the far left opening. Works from left: JEFF WALL, Passerby, 1996, RICHARD PRINCE, Untitled (Fashion), 1982-1984, JACQUELINE HUMPHRIES, 00 00%, 2015. Opposite: The rear living-room gallery showcasing ANNE TRUITT, 3 December ’65, 1965, ROBERT GOBER, Untitled, 2002, and MAN RAY, Vénus restaurée or Vénus de Medici, 1971.
“It’s my life’s work,” says Chara Schreyer, simply. “I’m excited.” She’s anticipating the launch of Art House (Assouline), a lavish new coffee table book debuting this month that documents her modern and contemporary art collection—and 40-year collaboration with interior designer Gary Hutton. For Schreyer, the project feeds into a desire to broaden the public’s understanding of visual art. “I am a custodian for the art,” she says. “It needs to live long past my lifetime.” She divides her time between Los Angeles, San Francisco, Belvedere and Marin; her homes are her sanctuaries. The mother of two grown daughters (and grandmother to two grandsons), Schreyer was born in Germany, raised in Los Angeles, honed her love of art at UC Berkeley, and is on the boards of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Hammer Museum and The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles. As the daughter of Holocaust survivors, she lives their tragic histories subconsciously—her collection tells a unique story. She “bows before the brilliance of human creation and thought,” and shares it generously. “I am always looking for great architecture to house my collection, and vice versa,” says Schreyer. Together with Hutton and other professionals, including lighting designer Hiram Banks, architect Joe McRitchie and landscape architect William Peters, she has created five harmonious residences. “The secret to our long, lovely relationship is mutual respect. We each know the other is usually right,” notes Hutton. Projects maintain their architectural integrity, but the art is always at the core. The Marin residence, Schreyer’s primary home, is simultaneously serene and
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subversive. Hutton created an all-white master bedroom supporting works such as Eva Hesse’s Top Spot, an assemblage of found objects above the fireplace, Georgia O’Keeffe’s oil painting Pelvis IV and Louise Bourgeois’ marble sculpture Harmless Woman. Texture is Hutton’s secret weapon for creating warmth. He upholstered the walls and roman shades in a linen blend with bits of shimmer, maximizing wall space for art. The carpet weave highlights the furniture’s wood and the walls’ sheen. They also transformed a family room into a contemporary gallery and weddingthemed art loft, where E.V. Day’s Bridal Super Nova 1 (an “exploding” Barbie wedding dress), Robert Gober’s photo-lithograph of himself as a bride, and Pierre-Louis Pierson’s
The two-story view featuring works (from top) CHRISTOPHER WOOL’s Untitled, 2007, RACHEL HARRISON’s Hail to Reason, 2004, and VERA LUTTER’s The Appropriation of Manhattan, Fulton Ferry Landing, Brooklyn IV, June 16, 1996, and SEAN SCULLY’s Untitled, 1987. Opposite, clockwise from far left: A third-floor landing view. GEORGIA O’KEEFFE’s Pelvis IV, 1944 in the master bedroom. Holding court in the living room, FRANK STELLA’s Honduras Lottery, 1962, and HANS BELLMER’s La Toupie, 1938/68. The Marin residence’s interiors set the standard for all of Schreyer’s future residences.
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Female-focused works line the master bedroom. EVA HESSE’s Top Spot, 1965, reigns over the fireplace. Opposite, from left: LOUISE BOURGEOIS, Harmless Woman, 1969, ROBERT GOBER, LOUISE BOURGEOIS and KAREN KILIMNIK, Exquisite Corpse, 2010.
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Cactus, a 19th-century photograph of La Comtesse de Castiglione as a bride, are on view. “Between my two marriages, I had been single for seven years,” says Schreyer. “I must have wanted to be a bride again.” For the record, she is now happily married to retired real estate management firm owner Gordon Freund. Formal conceptual masters, such as Frank Stella, Marcel Duchamp, Joseph Beuys and Christopher Wool, anchor the collection and cohabit the living room directly below the loft. When visiting from New York, Duchamp expert Francis Naumann observed a subconscious dialogue between the two spaces. The brides’ placement above the male, historical artists below, results in a dynamic that mimics Duchamp’s The Bride Stripped Bare by Her Bachelors, Even (The Large Glass). The frustrated bachelors cannot get to their brides. Themes of fear of loss, and desire for mobility and portability pervade Schreyer’s entire collection. Duchamp’s Boîte-envalise, Series A (a leather suitcase holding 69 reproductions and an original collotype, from Andy Warhol’s collection), Claes Oldenburg’s London Knees (a cast latex painted with colored polyurethane, and a felt and cloth suitcase) and Jenny Holzer’s original 10-part colored paper lithograph Inflammatory Essays are examples. “My parents’ fears became my fears,” she confides. In every residence, she has a dedicated “disaster” room with pieces exploring themes of tragedy. In Marin, it is an entire outdoor shed.
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Clockwise from top left: CHARA SCHREYER. Featured in the “brides loft,” ROBERT GOBER, Untitled (Bride), 1992-1996, GARY HILL, Crossbow, 1999, E.V. DAY, Bridal Super Nova 1, 2005, and on the floor, ROBERT MELEE, In Between False Comforts, 2005. MAN RAY, Cadeau, 1962.
Schreyer has welcomed more than 600 people for home tours, and regularly entertains artists such as Mark Bradford, Aaron Curry and Elliott Hundley. It’s clear she feels a profound responsibility to support public institutions, and has gifted many works to California museums, including Glenn Ligon’s neon sculpture Double America and Rachel Harrison’s sculpture Hail to Reason (comprising everything from chicken wire to a DVD player), both on view at SFMOMA. “My real joy,” she says, “is passing on knowledge to others.” •
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Inside the art shed, HENDRIKA SONNENBERG and CHRIS HANSON, Broken Fence, 2005, ROBERT BECK, Untitled (The New York Times, June 14, 1998: Mitchell Johnson), 2001, JENNY HOLZER, Inflammatory Essays, 1979-1982, and a ROBERT BECK artwork made of mortician’s wax, plastic, paper and metal.
L.A. artist JANE MOSELEY gets her RICHLY DECORATED MARCHING ORDERS in fall’s MILITARY-inspired hits
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BEAU GREALY Styling by ALISON EDMOND
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CHANEL hat, $3,100, and shorts, $4,150.
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BURBERRY overcoat, price upon request. Track pants, from a selection at Iguana Vintage Clothing. VHERNIER ring, $5,500. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN shoes, $675. Opposite: RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION jacket, $7,990. STAZIA LOREN gold-toned brooches, $750 and $1,750. JOHN HARDY necklace, $695, and ring, $2,195.
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SACAI jacket, $2,185, and skirt with belt, $690. HOORSENBUHS ring, $2,600. Earrings, stylist’s own. Opposite: GUCCI jacket, $4,200, and pants, $890. HOORSENBUHS ring, $15,000. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN boots, $1,995.
LOUIS VUITTON dress and pants, prices upon request, and belt, $550. JOHN HARDY ring, $495. Opposite: DSQUARED2 coat, price upon request. SPRWMN leggings, $725. VHERNIER Plateau ring, $5,100, and Camuration ring, $5,500.
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VERA WANG COLLECTION shirt, one-shoulder plastron and kilt, prices upon request, and shoes, $1,450. HOORSENBUHS ring, $1,500. Opposite: PRADA jacket, $2,420, corset, $895, belt, $445, and keychain, $285. VHERNIER ring, $4,400.
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ETRO jacket, $14,900. HOORSENBUHS ring, $2,600. Opposite: DOLCE & GABBANA jacket, price upon request, pants, $1,175, and shoes, $995. Makeup: WELEDA Skin Food, $19. TATCHA Petal Fresh Original Aburatorigami Japanese Beauty Papers, $12. CLE DE PEAU Concealer in Beige, $70. CHARLOTTE TILBURY Legendary Brow, $23. LAURA MERCIER Velour Lovers Lip Colour in Mon Cheri, $28, and Lip Pencil in True Red, $24. MODEL Jane Moseley at Next Model Management. HAIR Gio Campora at The Wall Group for Kérastase. MAKEUP Lisa Storey at The Wall Group. NAILS Christina Aviles at Opus Beauty for Dior Vernis.
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FASHION ASSISTANT: CORINA MITCHELL. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.134
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ANGIE SILVY JENNIFER MAERZ
Photography by Written by
For married artists Clare ROJAS and Barry McGEE, distinct CREATIVE spaces make way for ORIGINAL FORMS
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The names of San Francisco art stars Clare Rojas and Barry McGee are often mentioned in tandem. It stems from the fact that they’re married, occasionally collaborate, came out of the loosely knit Mission School movement of the 1990s, and were both featured in the influential 2008 underground art documentary Beautiful Losers. But creatively, the couple (who married in 2005 and share a 15-year-old daughter, Asha, born to McGee’s late wife, artist Margaret Kilgallen) exist in parallel universes. She’s a painter, musician and writer who crafts powerful large-scale narratives from a folk-leaning perspective. His striking psychedelic patterns, illustrative painted portraits of old men on liquor bottles, and sculptures of graffiti taggers celebrate a gritty urban vitality. Their differences intensify when you visit their workspaces. Rojas affectionately calls McGee a hoarder, and says part of the reason she got her studio seven years ago, having previously worked out of their house in the city’s Mission neighborhood, was because “he takes over every space that I have, so I need to have a room of my own.” Invoking Virginia Woolf, she adds: “Every woman should have [her] own space.” Rojas, 40, and McGee, 50, work on opposite sides of Potrero Hill. She paints in
CLARE ROJAS (opposite) and BARRY McGEE in their studios. The artists will both be featured in SITES: UNSEEN, a massive public art initiative launching this month in alleyways throughout San Francisco’s Yerba Buena neighborhood.
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Clockwise from top left: Surfboards for an upcoming fall 2017 installation by McGee (“It’s not about a board, it’s about a pile,” he explains). Works in progress by Rojas, who says this particular abstract landscape pattern of water and mountains is a meditation for her. McGee’s signature block lettering, illustrative portraits and colorful tessellations.
Feature (tbd) a roomy, skylighted studio in the American Industrial Center on Third Street, surrounded by tech companies, chocolatiers and the hum of Muni’s T-line rolling past. S.F.’s massive new gallery hub, Minnesota Street Projects, is only blocks away. Tubes of oil paint line windows overlooking the industrial Dogpatch skyline. Rojas’ rolled mock-ups for a future public art piece—a giant tiled mosaic of Asian textiles in a cathedral quilt pattern for the upcoming Chinatown Muni Station—sit neatly in shelving. Rojas, who is represented by Kavi Gupta gallery, recently shipped all of her new paintings to Brussels for a show at Alice Gallery, but some small-scale, in-progress abstracts on linen line one wall. After working larger-scale for years, Rojas was forced to return to paintings that fit in two hands by a recent back injury. “I love those challenges, like, bring it on, universe,” she says of the constraint. “There’s something very intimate about being able to work small at my desk.” Abstracts condense
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the stories in Rojas’ narrative paintings, she says. “It’s very much like pushing so far that you don’t even recognize the original,” she says. “It’s heaven, and you can just keep going.” A new monograph out this month from D.A.P., Clare Rojas: Plain Black: Abstract Paintings, celebrates the artist’s angular, reductive works. McGee’s studio is lodged in a back corner of Potrero Hill near San Francisco General Hospital, the 101 Freeway and a homeless encampment. Bars cover his windows and old surfboards stacked by the dozen flank the door. Paint-splattered chairs and tables dragged in off the street support spray cans and
small piles of illustrations that McGee (represented by Ratio 3 gallery) taps out on his cellphone using alphanumeric code. Bands practice in garages on this street, artist warehouses surround a nearby skate park, and displaced downtown galleries have found new life nearby. He feels at home here. “The neighborhood’s great—it’s basically the Potrero Arts District. We’re gonna put a plaque down,” he jokes. “The freeway’s right there, so you can make as much noise as you want—nobody cares. It’s pretty shitty, but I like it.” His belongings overtake a studio, two offices and a small loft. The offices are crammed with books, a moped, thrifted neon baskets, and work by local artists McGee admires, such as emerging artist Willy Reed. Pointing to a collage of Reed’s leaning against a doorway, McGee says, “I love it because I have no idea what’s going on.” His untamed workspace embodies the frenetic energy that his paintings, drawings and photographs take on when he clusters them together into 3-D bulges for installations at SFMOMA, Berkeley Art Museum or Facebook’s Menlo Park HQ.
“I like vast areas of super-detailed stuff and then having your eye rest a little,” McGee says. He’s referring to the paintings at his feet, which are a mix of his signature drifter portraits and vibrant tessellations. These pieces will eventually become his contribution to Sites: Unseen, a new public art initiative inviting artists to transform eight alleyways in the Yerba Buena neighborhood. Sites: Unseen launches October 9 (and is due to run through 2018) with McGee’s piece, his first large-scale, permanent public work in San Francisco. For the project, Rojas, too, will have an alleyway (almost) of her own next year. She plans to riff off a series of public Crochet Jams led by Bay Area artist Ramekon O’Arwisters and The Luggage Store director Darryl Smith, where they engage the public in weaving strips of fabric together to create a permanent mosaic piece. Rojas is looking forward to the collaboration, which like her canon as Peggy Honeywell (the moniker she uses when recording her banjo- and guitar-driven
Feature (tbd) Clockwise from top right: Rojas’ collaboration with S.F.-based, women-run shoe company FREDA SALVADOR. “My husband’s like, ‘You can’t wear your own shoes,’” she says, laughing. “He has so many rules.” A painted surfboard by McGee. Rojas’ new works on linen.
folk songs with a cast of musicians), temporarily removes her artistic isolation. “It’s a beautiful social experience,” she says of the Crochet Jam series. McGee’s work will be installed in the Moscone Center Garage, on the corner of Clementina Street West and Kaplan Lane. He agreed to be part of Sites: Unseen because he’s drawn to the parking lot’s neglected vibe. “It’s weird because it’s right downtown where the arts district is blossoming, and there’s this parking garage that’s completely abandoned at the very top,” he says, theorizing, “Maybe one car got stuck there for the rest of time.”
McGee is animated when he’s talking about covert spaces, a passion that likely stems from his roots as a graffiti writer in S.F. in the ’80s. He’s concerned about the popularity of commissioned murals in the city, likening them to bad tattoos. “I’m annoyed that people have the ease right now where they can just put up a mural anywhere,” he says. “I like things that are a little more antagonizing. I come from a generation where people would do things—regardless of whether they’d have permission. And it came out however it came out, and stayed for however long it stayed.” •
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Clockwise from opposite: Artwork by Barry McGee for the upcoming Sites: Unseen public art initiative. Clare Rojas’ latest PEGGY HONEYWELL LP, recorded with members of S.F.’s GOJOGO. Leaning against the wall are McGee’s “collaborative” works with his neighborhood—he takes scraps off the street, alters them, and returns them to the street anonymously.
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AUBRIE PICK Written by CATHERINE BIGELOW
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Photographed in the European and Decorative Arts Gallery at the LEGION OF HONOR MUSEUM, KATIE TRAINA (left) and DEDE WILSEY flank designer ANDREW GN while wearing gowns from his eponymous label’s Pre-Fall 2015 collection.
Paris-based designer ANDREW GN finds a second home in the Bay Area, where his FRESH take on Old World GRANDEUR and emphasis on fine craftsmanship play to a rapt audience. Together, he and his “Gn-ettes” hold court at the LEGION OF HONOR
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Bowing his gloriously bald pate, framed in a signature black turtleneck, fashion designer Andrew Gn briefly fusses over the fold on one of his gowns and swiftly adjusts the lay of its hem. Then he repositions for the camera with his friends and models, Bay Area arts patrons Yurie Pascarella and Akiko Yamazaki, in the Salon Doré at the Legion of Honor Museum in San Francisco. This restored 18th-century French neoclassical setting is picture-perfect for the Paris-based designer’s glamorously lush creations. Draped in Gn gowns, the Gnettes, who for this shoot also include Katie Traina and her mother-in-law, Fine Arts Museums Board President Dede Wilsey; Dr. Carolyn Chang (vice chairman for the Department of Plastic Surgery at California Pacific Medical Center); PR pro Allison Speer; and interior designer Hillary Thomas. “The ‘Gn-ettes’ is an endearing term I came up with out of love for my friends here. It’s not like we’re a gang,” he giggles. Singapore-born Gn, 50, is at home amongst the Legion’s vast trove of 16thto 21st-century European decorative arts, sculptures and paintings. He grew up surrounded by art and determined
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23-karat gold leaf. Authentic creaks emanate from historic parquet floors set off by woven blue silk Jacob chairs. None are allowed to sit on those alluring yet fragile artifacts—after all, given its precious contents, fashion shoots at the Legion are rare. Yet Gn’s aesthetics so perfectly complement the array of art inside this Beaux Arts-beauty perched on a hill overlooking San Francisco Bay, his talent seems right at home in such environs. Continued on p.134
“I love that Andrew draws INSPIRATION FROM ART. He’ll skillfully incorporate elements like Chinese porcelains, PERSIAN floral gardens and even JAPANESE robots Feature in(tbd) his designs.” — AKIKO YAMAZAKI
HAIR: MAY RAMIREZ. MAKEUP: BIANCA RUBI
at a young age to study fashion design. He graduated from the renowned Central Saint Martins art school in London and earned his master’s at the prestigious Domus Academy in Milan. Upon graduation in 1992, Gn was immediately hired to assist Emanuel Ungaro in Paris. In 1996, he launched his eponymous label in France where he manufactures the majority of his collections. Sans standalone boutiques, Gn sells his collections online on Moda Operandi and globally, at the likes of Bergdorf Goodman in New York, Harrods in London and Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai. “This splendid salon perfectly complements my gowns,” enthuses Gn, who operates out of his Paul Poiret-inspired, by-appointment-only atelier in the Marais district. “I asked the ladies today to wear designs they owned from different seasons. It shows that my dresses don’t really date. But it’s also a bit like a retrospective.” He is no cookie-cutter designer: His magnificent evening gowns are offered in editions of one per city. Scarlett Johansson, Jessica Chastain and Emma Stone are among his red-carpet regulars. In February, Yamazaki convinced her pal to create two dresses to auction at the 50th anniversary gala of the Asian Art Museum in San Francisco, where she serves as chair. “I love that Andrew draws inspiration from art. He’ll skillfully incorporate elements like Chinese porcelains, Persian floral gardens and even Japanese robots in his designs,” she says. “For the Asian Art gala, he helped us raise money by auctioning a one-of-a-kind cocktail dress based on a Sung Dynasty vase.” Under the direction of Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco curator Martin Chapman, Salon Doré underwent a meticulous, $2 million restoration for 18 months in 2012 to revive its gilded glory: Simulated candlelight in this 18th-century, neoclassical salon de compagnie glows warmly against dove-gray boiserie trimmed in
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Arts philanthropists YURIE PASCARELLA (left) and AKIKO YAMAZAKI and their Gn gowns perfectly evoke the ancien régime details of the Legion’s Salon Doré. Opposite, from top: A close-up of Pascarella’s belted gray sequin Gn gown. Exquisite beading and tassel work seen on KATIE TRAINA’s Gn gown. HILLARY THOMAS (left), ALLISON SPEER and DR. CAROLYN CHANG in a retrospective of the designer’s gowns that echo the sumptuousness of the restored salon.
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transform mundane objects into sly emissaries of cultural commentary. “My space program is driven by irrationality and intuition,” he explains during his initial YBCA setup. “All the pseudo science stuff we do is just about using things from the world to support my sculpture-making.” His one-of-a-kind approach has invited creative collaborations for NikeCraft space-themed apparel and accessories, as well as cease-and-desist letters from NASA for appropriating their logo. “I have broken a lot of rules,” he admits playfully. “But in one of those letters, NASA asked to buy one of my sculptures…It’s in the agency’s Smithsonian collection.” Sachs’ historic large-scale trip, “Space Program 2.0: MARS,” launched in 2012 at New York’s Park Avenue Armory. That punctilious journey was documented by director Van Neistat for the absurdist yet existentially complex film A Space Program, released earlier this year. “Space Program: Europa” is his third space mission and spreads across 12,500 square feet at YBCA. Earlier works, such as Sachs’ industrial take on the Hermès bag, White Kelly, 2012, are included among roughly 200 sculptures and largescale installations—an Apollo-era landing module and a Winnebago tricked out as a “Mobile Quarantine Facility” for his astronaut suits. Sachs’ obsession with outer space was sparked as a kid in Westport, Conn., growing up amid the glory days of NASA’s nascent space program. “Even though we were at war in Vietnam, there was an optimism about NASA exploration that inspired us to believe we could travel to other planets,” he says. “We achieve posterity and survival of the species through procreation. But the dream of traveling to other planets is the dream of immortality.” Tom Sachs’ “Space Program: Europa” runs through Jan. 15. Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, 701 Mission St., S.F., 415-9782787; ybca.org. • CATHERINE BIGELOW
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British-born de Baubigny was one of the first S.F. swans to discover Gn in London. In 2010, she introduced him to S.F.-based Speer, an instant devotee, who happily connected Gn with her extensive network. The designer’s collections are now carried at PIA, a new Jackson Square boutique opened last month by Pia Øien Cohler.
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But since 2010, he alights here biannually for trunk shows at Betty Lin boutique on Sacramento Street, where he and his collections are flocked. Currently garnering raves, Gn’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection was inspired by a photo Gn discovered of the daughters of Nicholas II, the last emperor of Russia. “The girls are wearing their regiment uniforms, a beautiful combination of gorgeous, embroidered military jackets with elegant, long skirts. The idea of feminine-meetsmasculine in the early 20th century was very advanced,” he explains. “Then I dug deeper, examining different Edwardian period details. I incorporated that all together and it became my winter collection.” In spite of his superb handcrafted and custom ornamentation (tassels, passementerie, traditional sewing techniques), Gn eschews the label “haute couture.” “We deliver four collections to houses around the world, so it’s ready-to-wear,” he explains. “People may think I’m haute couture because I’m a designer who believes in craft and details, not typical RTW elements. We spend hours on trimmings, embroidery— even buttons. We design our very own textiles at mills exclusive to us. We design almost everything on the garments. It’s just RTW with high-end craftsmanship.” (In recognition of said standards, he’ll be honored by the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum during a series of events next month.) Gn is also a dedicated art connoisseur and collector, maintaining an extensive archive of all-era objets: 18-century furniture, 20th-century ceramics, contemporary art, antique Chinese porcelain and midcentury furniture. “I own three residences in Paris, each decorated in different periods. I’m fortunate that I can go from home to home or room to room and be inspired,” he says, adding, “My personal collection may be bad for my bank account but it’s a vast research center for my designs.” “What draws me to Andrew’s designs are his exquisite embellishment and perfect construction; they’re modern and not too precious,” says loyal client Chang. “His aesthetic reflects my own taste for perfection and effortless, natural beauty. When I wear Andrew’s designs, I feel confident.” Gn is grateful strong women are attracted to his work—he knows that when a woman walks into a room in a Gn ensemble, she will be noticed. And that’s his goal. “I continue to evolve from season to season, so I give women a reason to continue with me,” he says. “I strive to give them new things and unexpected details. The best fashion should always be about surprise.” Gn presents his Cruise and Spring 2017 collections Nov. 8-10 at Betty Lin, 3625 Sacramento St., S.F., 415-345-8688; andrewgn.com. •
Runover
SHOPPING GUIDE ON OUR COVER On Pyper (left): Prada dress, $4,115, necklace, $750, and boots, price upon request, Prada, B.H., 310-278-8661. John Hardy classic chain gold and silver diamond pavé bracelet, $2,300, johnhardy.com. Anne Sisteron 14-karat yellow-gold diamond horn bangle, $2,765, Anne Sisteron, B.H., 310-550-0716; annesisteron.com. On Lucky: Prada coat, $4,060, and pants, $1,400, Prada, B.H., 310-278-8661; prada.com. David Yurman fluted chain necklace in silver, $1,250, box chain necklace in silver, $255, and heirloom signet ring in 18-karat gold, $3,900, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618; davidyurman.com. Dr. Martens Whiton boots, $255, drmartens.com. On Daisy: Prada dress, $3,420, Prada, B.H., 310-278-8661. David Yurman Solari Bypass bracelet in 18-karat gold, $1,800, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618; david yurman.com. John Hardy classic chain gold and silver extra-small reversible bracelet, $1,800, john hardy.com. On Starlie: Prada dress, $6,410, Prada, B.H., 310-278-8661. Jewelista 14-karat gold Moonlight Concave Diamond Stud Earrings, $675, jewelista.com. Marco Bicego earrings hand-coiled in 18-karat yellow and white gold with pavé diamonds, $2,960, marco bicego.com. Jennifer Meyer multicolor five-bezel ring in 18-karat yellow gold, $2,150, 18-karat yellowgold diamond three-bezel ring, $1,895, and 18-karat yellow-gold bead rings, $675 each, ylang23.com. Christian Louboutin Goldostrap black leather T-strap pumps with stud detail, $1,145, Christian Louboutin, B.H., 310-247-9300. TABLE OF CONTENTS p.22 See “Breaking Ranks,” p.112. AVANT GUARD p.58 Oscar de la Renta gold wisteria crystal brooch and chain, $590, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H., 310-2754211. Valentino crocodile bag, $14,875, and guitar strap, $1,045, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103. Tiffany & Co. Return to Tiffany bracelet, $3,550, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310-273-8880. Calvin Klein Collection leather pumps, $895, calvinklein.com. Furla bag, $548, furla.com. Marc Jacobs A Frame Checks bag in mink, $7,000, Marc Jacobs, L.A., 323-944-0575. Stazia Loren Sharra Tagano 1960s bracelet, $1,250, Barneys New York, B.H., 310-276-4400. Giorgio Armani sunglasses, $1,120, Giorgio Armani, B.H., 310-271-5555; armani .com. Tod’s lace-up ankle boots, $1,155, Tod’s, B.H., 310-285-0591. Gucci medium leather bag, $2,980, Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451. Jimmy Choo Romy pumps, $1,050, Jimmy Choo, B.H., 310-860-9045. Dior metal with rhodium finish amazonite ring, $440, Dior, B.H., 310-859-4700. COLD PLAY p.60 Longchamp Roseau Panthère reversible tote, $810, longchamp.com. Miu Miu slides, $990, Miu Miu, B.H., 310-247-2227. Diane Von Furstenburg Love Power saddle bag, $398, DVF, C.M., 714312-5480. Brunello Cucinelli cashmere fur sports wedge, $1,445, Brunello Cucinelli, B.H., 310-7248118. Michael Kors Sloan large shearling bag, $298, Michael Kors, B.H., 310-777-8862; michaelkors.com. Gucci Princetown zebra slippers, $995, Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451. Pierre Hardy Reporter natural bag, price available upon request, similar styles, pierre hardy.com. Zero + Maria Cornejo Gemma shearling pumps, $850, Barneys New York, B.H., 310-276-4400; barneys.com. Max Mara sheepskin bucket bag, $1,450, maxmara.com. Moncler Osia Stivale wedge boots, $740, Moncler, B.H., 424-354-4562; moncler.com. BACK TO NATURE p.62 John Hardy Macan Spirit necklace, $36,000, 888838-3022. Wendy Yue flower cuff, $84,000, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900. Lauren Wolf Jewelry snake fang necklace, $1,200, Esqueleto, L.A., 213-9473508; laurenwolfjewelry.com. Alex Soldier limitededition Sunflower ring in 18-karat rose, yellow and white gold with diamonds and tsavorites, $22,500, SFA, S.F. Arman Sarkisyan stag locket, $16,960, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900. Todd Reed drop earrings in 18-karat gold, sterling silver with patina,
autumn diamonds, and brown diamonds, $12,320, Todd Reed, Venice, 310-450-7840. Feral Jewelry antler bracelet, $4,800, feraljewelry.com. Chopard ring from the Fleurs d’Opales Collection, price upon request, Chopard, C.M. Vhernier Rosa earrings, $17,000, Vhernier, B.H., 310-273-2444. Colette Jewelry Desire ear cuff in 18-karat white gold and diamond, $10,500, Colette Jewelry, Melrose Place, L.A. Cartier Cactus de Cartier bracelet, 18-karat yellow gold, chrysoprasus, emeralds, carnelians and diamonds, price upon request, Cartier, B.H., available by appointment only, 800-327-8437; cartier.com. Stephen Webster Love Me Love Me Not detachable earrings in 18-karat rose gold, quartz pink opal Crystal Haze and white diamond pavé, $8,950, Stephen Webster, B.H., 310246-9500. SIBLING REVELRY p.91 Calvin Klein Collection Neiden camel overcoat with rose gold liner, $1,950, and Landon white jacquard denim jeans, $525, calvinklein.com. David Yurman Heirloom Signet ring in 18-karat gold, $3,900, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. p.92 On Starlie: Dolce & Gabbana blue Lurex dress, $5,995, Dolce & Gabbana, B.H., 310-360-7282; dolcegabbana.it. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat white gold bead ring, $675, ylang23.com. On Pyper: Dolce & Gabbana silver Payette sequined dress with crystal collar, $4,995, Dolce & Gabbana, B.H., 310-360-7282; dolcegabbana.it. Alison Evans chain-mail silver spike earrings, $300, and sterling-silver chain-mail bracelet, $790, jewelista.com. Brumani 18-karat white gold smoky quartz diamond ring, $4,585, jewelista .com. On Lucky: Dolce & Gabbana denim jacket with embroidered embellishments, $5,995, and jeans with embroidered embellishments, $3,775, Dolce & Gabbana, B.H., 310-360-7282; dolcegabbana.it. On Daisy: Dolce & Gabbana white organza dress, $3,845, silver collar with embellished bow, $1,895, white silk bra, $545, and white silk bottoms $255, Dolce & Gabbana, B.H., 310-360-7282; dolcegabbana.it. Alison Evans titanium gray pearl chain-mail earrings, $265, jewelista.com. p.95 On Pyper: Chloe silk smocked dress, $3,950, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H., 310- 275-4211; saksfifthavenue.com. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat yellow gold diamond large thin hoops, $675, ylang23.com. On Lucky: Roberto Cavalli embellished shirt, $8,110, Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006. David Yurman fluted chain necklace in silver, $1,250, box chain necklace in silver, $255, and waves signet ring with gold, $1,150, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. John Hardy men’s classic chain silver square ring, $350, johnhardy.com. p.97 On Lucky: Prada coat, $4,060, and pants, $1,400, Prada, B.H., 310-278-8661. Dr. Martens Whiton boots, $255, drmartens.com. David Yurman Heirloom Signet ring in 18-karat gold, $3,900, David Yurman Beverly Hills, B.H., 310-888-8618. On Pyper: Prada dress, $4,115, necklace, $750, and boots, price upon request, Prada, B.H., 310-278-8661. Anne Sisteron 14-karat yellow gold diamond horn bangle, $2,765, Anne Sisteron, B.H., 310-550-0716. John Hardy classic chain gold and silver diamond pavé extra-small reversible bracelet, $2,300, johnhardy. com. On Daisy: Prada dress, $3,420, corset, $895, belt, $445, and shoes, price upon request, Prada, B.H., 310-278-8661. John Hardy classic chain gold and silver extra-small reversible bracelet, $1,800, john hardy.com. David Yurman Solari Bypass bracelet in 18-karat gold, $1,800, David Yurman, B.H., 310-8888618. Marco Bicego bracelet hand-coiled in 18-karat yellow and white gold with diamonds, $2,290, marcobicego.com. Jewelista 14-karat gold moonlight concave diamond crater ring, $635, 14-karat gold starlight stackable etched diamond ring, $340, and 14-karat gold moonlight eclipse tapered diamond pavé ring, $325, jewelista.com. On Starlie: Prada dress, $6,410, Prada, B.H., 310-278-8661. Jewelista 14-karat gold moonlight concave diamond stud earrings, $675, jewelista.com. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat yellow gold diamond three-bezel ring, $1,895, and 18-karat yellow gold multicolor five-bezel ring,
$2,150, ylang23.com. Christian Louboutin Goldostrap black leather T-strap pumps with stud detail, $1,145, Christian Louboutin, L.A., 310-247-9300. p.99 On Starlie: Gucci blue stretch twill single-breasted men’s jacket with contrast lapel and fringes and heart & knife patch embroidery, $4,200, and optical white stone-washed cotton jersey over base T-shirt, $750, Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451. Brumani 18-karat gold amethyst wide hoop earrings, $2,650, jewelista.com. Anne Sisteron white gold oval diamond slice ring, $2,580, and 14-karat white-gold diamond electric ring, $1,170, Anne Sisteron, B.H., 310-550-0716. On Daisy: Roberto Cavalli floral gown, $18,015, Roberto Cavalli, 362 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-276-6006. Rockins roses super-skinny scarf in black, price upon request, similar styles available at net-a-porter.com. Jewelista 14-karat gold moonlight diamond pavé hoop earrings, $550, and 14-karat gold starlight cushion diamond stud earrings, $375. David Yurman Pure Form set of two rings in 18-karat gold, $1,900, David Yurman, 371 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-888-8618. Chloé Lexi ankle boot, $995, bergdorfgoodman.com. p.100 On Lucky: Roberto Cavalli shirt, $8,110, and jeans, $515, Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006. David Yurman fluted chain necklace in silver, $1,250, and box chain necklace in silver, $255, David Yurman, B.H., 310888-8618. On Starlie: Roberto Cavalli embellished gown, $28,825, Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006. Brumani 18-karat rose gold, white gold and topaz diamond earring, $5,500/pair, jewelista.com. Anne Sisteron 14-karat rose gold and oxidized diamond slink ring, $1,305, and 14-karat yellow gold diamond mini taureau ring, $395, Anne Sisteron, B.H., 310550-0716. On Pyper: Roberto Cavalli lace blouse, $4,805, Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006. On Daisy: Roberto Cavalli floral gown, $18,015, Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006. Rockins roses super-skinny scarf in black, price upon request, similar styles available, net-a-porter.com. p.102 On Starlie: Ralph Lauren Collection De Mur Radford coat, $5,190, Ralph Lauren, B.H., 310-281-1500; ralphlauren.com. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat yellow gold five-diamond cube, $825, ylang23.com. On Lucky: Ralph Lauren black/green floral jacquard sport coat, $4,995, and white poplin formal shirt, $695, Ralph Lauren, B.H., 310-2811500; ralphlauren.com. David Yurman streamline faceted metal cuff bracelet with 18-karat gold, $3,400, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. On Daisy: Ralph Lauren Collection fluid suiting velvet evening dress, $4,990, Ralph Lauren, B.H., 310-281-1500; ralph lauren.com. On Pyper: Ralph Lauren Collection floral patchwork jacquard evening dress, $12,000, Ralph Lauren, B.H., 310-281-1500; ralphlauren.com. Jewelista 14-karat gold moonlight tapered diamond pavé lunar eclipse bangle, $800 each, jewelista.com. Brumani 18-karat yellow gold citrine and diamond ring, $3,790, jewelista.com. p.103 On Daisy: Michael Kors Collection silver metallic embroidered stretch tulle dress, $9,995, Michael Kors, B.H., 310-777-8862. Alison Evans silver chain-mail drop earrings, $300, jewelista.com. Anne Sisteron 14-karat white gold oval diamond slice ring, $2,580, Anne Sisteron, B.H., 310-550-0716. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat white gold diamond eternity band, $2,000, 18-karat white gold diamond bar ring, $450, and 18-karat white gold onyx inlay mini circle ring with diamond surround, $725, ylang23.com. Fiorentini + Baker eternity boots, $350, Fiorentini + Baker, Venice, 310-450-7560. On Lucky: Michael Kors cotton herringbone tweed blazer, $595, and poplin shirt, $175, Michael Kors, S.F., 415-6587850. On Starlie: Michael Kors Collection black sequin embroidered silk georgette streamer dress, $12,995, Michael Kors Beverly Hills, B.H., 310-777-8862. Lauren Wolf stingray signet ring, $75, and silver tourmalated quartz ring, $100, Esqueleto Los Angeles, L.A., 213-629-6216. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat white gold diamond large thin hoops, $675, ylang23.com. Anne Sisteron 14-karat white gold diamond long bar baguette earrings, $4,390, Anne Sisteron Beverly Hills, B.H., 310-550-0716; annesisteron.com. Giuseppe Zanotti Design black patent and satin boots, $1,250,
Giuseppe Zanotti Design, B.H., 310-858-1990; giuseppezanottidesign.com. On Pyper: Michael Kors Collection black sequin, ostrich and silk wool mikado flirt dress, $7,995, Michael Kors, B.H., 310-777-8862. Lauren Wolf silver urchin hoops, $180, Esqueleto, L.A., 213-629-6216. David Yurman Pure Form set of two rings in silver, $500, David Yurman, B.H., davidyurman.com. BREAKING RANKS p.113 Chanel lambskin hat, $3,100, and grained calfskin shorts, $4,150, Chanel stores, 800-550-0005. p.114 Ralph Lauren Collection embroidered wool cashmere coat, $7,990, Ralph Lauren, B.H., 310-2817200; ralphlauren.com. Stazia Loren Vintage Polcini Gold Tone Diamante Maltese Cross Brooch, c. 1960s, $750, and Vintage Delillo Gold Tone Diamante Maltese Cross Brooch, c. 1970s, $1,750, Barneys New York, B.H., 212-882-1780. Dolce & Gabbana black embellished cross brooch, $645, select Dolce & Gabbana stores, dolcegabbana.it. John Hardy classic chain dog tag necklace in silver with brown tiger eye, $695, and Bamboo Coil ring in 18-karat gold, $2,195, Bloomingdale’s, L.A., johnhardy.com. p.115 Burberry double-breasted overcoat in military wool, price available upon request, Burberry, B.H., 310-5504500. Track pants, from a selection at Iguana Vintage Clothing, Sherman Oaks, 818-907-6716. Vhernier Camuration ring in 18-karat rose gold, $5,500, Vhernier, B.H., 310-273-2444. Christian Louboutin So Kate gold leather point-toe pumps, $675, christian louboutin.com. p.116 Gucci black iridescent gold scanbrown renaissance jacquard jacket with fur detail, $4,200, and black multicolor super-stretch denim slim pant with embroidered patches, $890, select Gucci stores, gucci.com. Hoorsenbuhs Bonded ring in 18-karat yellow gold and diamonds, $15,000, hoorsenbuhs.com. Christian Louboutin Miss Circus black and gold woven suede peep-toe bootie, $1,995, christianlouboutin.com. p.117 Sacai melton wool blouson, $2,185, and classic shirting skirt, $690, Santa Fe Dry Goods, Santa Fe, 505-992-8083, saksfifth avenue.com. Hoorsenbuhs Wall Quad ring in sterling silver and diamonds, $2,600, hoorsenbuhs.com. p.118 Louis Vuitton bi-material dress and straight pants, prices upon request, and Handle Meblack canvas belt, approx. $550, Louis Vuitton, B.H., 310-859-0457, louisvuitton.com. John Hardy classic chain signet ring in silver and 18-karat yellow gold, $495, john hardy.com. p.119 DSQUARED2 women’s military double-breasted long coat, price upon request, DSQUARED2, B.H., 310-888-0117; dsquared2.com. SPRWMN leather capri leggings, $725, Curve, L.A., 310-360-8008. Vhernier Plateau ring in 18-karat rose gold, $5,100, and Camuration ring in 18-karat rose gold, $5,500, Vhernier, B.H., 310-273-2444. p.120 Vera Wang Collection khaki cotton poplin button-down, khaki scuba one-shoulder plastron, and khaki wool maxi kilt with pleated front and side front slit, prices upon request, and leather platform shoes, $1,450, Vera Wang, B.H., 323-602-0174. Hoorsenbuhs ring, $1,500, hoorsenbuhs.com. p.121 Prada jacket, $2,420, corset, $895, belt, $445, and metal key trick, $285, prada.com. Vhernier Vague ring in 18-karat rose gold, $4,400, Vhernier, B.H., 310-273-2444. p.122 Etro embroidered cropped jacket, $14,900, Etro, B.H., 310-248-2855; etro.com. Hoorsenbuhs Wall Quad ring $2,600, hoorsenbuhs.com. p.123 Dolce & Gabbana cashmere-blend military jacket with embellishments, price upon request, cropped wool-blend trousers, $1,175, and black MJ pumps with gold detailing, $995, Dolce & Gabbana stores, dolcegabbana.it.
Shopping Guide
PHOTO FINISH p.138 Roberto Cavalli denim coat, $10,210, Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006. Graziela Gems white studded band ring, $750, and Wave Band ring in white, $120, grazielagems.com. EF Collection Electric Diamond Zig Zag Ring, $625, 323-952-6065. Jimmy Choo Anouk black patent pump, $595, Jimmy Choo, B.H., 310-860-9045.
C Magazine October 2016 is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 460248, Escondido, CA 92046. Subscriptions Telephone 800-775-3066 or E-mail cmagcustomerservice@pcspublink.com. Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., add $15 postage. Single copies available at newsstands and other magazine outlets throughout the United States.
OCTOBER 2016 C 135
DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES
At the intersection of ART and FASHION, the City of Angels’ cultural METROPOLIS is the perfect backdrop for fall’s PUNCHY looks
The turquoise Art Deco facade of the EASTERN COLUMBIA BUILDING as seen from Upstairs Bar at Downtown’s ACE HOTEL. HOTEL
Edited by LINDSAY KINDELON 1. SAINT LAURENT metallic leather Babies boots, $845, net-a-porter.com. 2. ELIZABETH AND JAMES Foster sunglasses, $175, shopbop.com. 3. GUCCI Caribbean green suede small bag, $2,400, gucci.com. 4. HARRY WINSTON pink sapphire and spinel drop platinum earrings, price upon request, harrywinston.com. 5. GABRIELA HEARST Thompson corduroy pants, $595, net-a-porter.com. 6. BOTTEGA VENETA Uranus sterling-silver box, $8,600, MASS Beverly, W.H. 7. RODARTE Fall/Winter 2016. 8. LA MER The Cleansing Micellar Water, $90, creme delamer.com. 9. CÉLINE small lambskin Croissant bag in Vanilla, $2,000, Barneys New York, B.H. 10. PIERRE HARDY Mega Gem heels, $995, pierrehardy.com. 11. LOUIS VUITTON Idylle Blossom double ring, $4,100, louis vuitton.com. 12. VALENTINO Fall/Winter 2016. 13. ACNE STUDIOS Fall/Winter 2016. 14. MIU MIU Circle matelassé leather shoulder bag, $935, net-a-porter.com.
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C Insider KELLY SAWDON
SAWDON: LINDSEY BYRNES
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It’s safe to say Kelly Sawdon is a power player in Downtown Los Angeles’ current cultural renaissance. As partner and chief brand officer of ultrahip boutique chain Ace Hotel (acehotel.com), Sawdon is the creative force behind its Broadway locale and event hub, The Theatre at Ace Hotel. Says Sawdon, “It’s been really inspiring to see new galleries and museums like The Broad and the Howard Griffin Gallery pop up and an influx of talented designers like Black Crane and Heidi Merrick setting up shop.” Here, Sawdon’s neighborhood highlights: • Zinc Cafe & Market A go-to for tea or glass of wine. zinccafe.com. • A.P.C. They have been been collaborators with the hotel for a while. They always have beautifully simple and timeless pieces. apc.fr. • Sushi Gen This restaurant in Little Tokyo is unrivaled in quality. sushigen-dtla.com. • The Theatre at Ace Hotel I’m really excited to see Seu Jorge’s The Life Aquatic tribute to David Bowie, happening late next month. Nov. 26-28; theatre.acehotel.com. • It’s so rare for the city to have such a concentration of distinct buildings, from the historic theaters along Broadway to the Bradbury Building and its ornate bird-cage elevators, or the gorgeous turquoise Eastern Columbia Building. •
PHOTO finish
Actor, Director, Producer “An actress who gave a guest class at NYU said, ‘Don’t go to L.A. without a job,’ and I took that seriously,” says Zoe Lister-Jones. “As an impressionable 18-year-old, it really stuck with me.” A Brooklyn native, Lister-Jones, 34, got her start off-Broadway and in guest roles on all four Law and Order series (“a real rite of passage for an actor in New York,” she says). But when Lister-Jones was offered a role as co-star in the NBC sitcom Whitney in 2011, she jumped at the chance to move west. Though Whitney lasted only two seasons, it paved the way for other jobs, from a recurring role on Fox’s New Girl to a starring role on the CBS sitcom Life in Pieces, entering its second season October 27. “As an artist you should always be confronting the things that scare you,” says Lister-Jones, who has collaborated with her director husband, Daryl Wien, on indie flicks Breaking Upwards (2009) and Lola Versus (2012). This summer, Lister-Jones took that challenge, making her directorial debut with the upcoming dramedy Band Aid, a story about a couple working to save their marriage, which she also wrote and stars in alongside Fred Armisen and Adam Pally. Just as impressive as the cast in front of the camera is the one behind it— an all-female production crew assembled by Lister-Jones. “There’s a very distinct energy when a group of women make something together,” she says. “It’s a rare opportunity.” •
C 138 OCTOBER 2016
PhotoFinish
Photography by
J.R. MANKOFF
WRITTEN BY LESLEY M c KENZIE. STYLING: ALISON EDMOND. MAKEUP: JO STRETTELL AT TRACEY MATTINGLY AGENCY. HAIR: ERIC GABRIEL AT THE WALL GROUP USING ORIBE. NAILS: CHRISTINA AVILES AT OPUS BEAUTY USING DIOR VERNIS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.134
ZOE LISTER‑JONES
ROBERTO CAVALLI coat, $10,210. GRAZIELA GEMS studded ring, $750, Wave Band, $120, and EF COLLECTION Zig Zag ring, $625 (left). Lister-Jones’ own diamond rings (right). JIMMY CHOO pumps, $595.
Cle de Peau
Let us indulge you at the ClĂŠ de Peau BeautĂŠ counter with a complimentary Signature Facial Service and receive a customized skincare sample. While supplies last.
Tiffany & Co