C California Style

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KIRSTEN DUNST AND THE RODARTE DUO’S OTHERWORLDLY VISION


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100

OCTOBER 2017

90 FINDING NEW GROUND

TOC 1

For Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s first feature film, it was only natural that they tapped their best friend Kirsten Dunst for the starring role—but they say she’s actually the only person who could have played the part. C sat down with the trio to recap their collaboration on Woodshock, which was set deep within an old-growth forest in Northern California.

114

100 CREATIVE LIVING An unexpected architectural find makes for an inspired family home for art consultant Sylvia Chivaratanond and MOCA’s Philippe Vergne.

108

108 THE SUN KING With an appreciation for campy ’80s flicks and Southern California flair, multimedia artist Alex Israel invites a fresh, surf-soaked cast to populate his new work, the film SPF-18.

114 CELLULOID HERO Photographer and visual artist Tasya van Ree is no stranger to pushing boundaries. Here, she flips the lens to capture her own unique style.

C 24 OCTOBER 2017

90 On Our Cover KIRSTEN DUNST wearing a PREEN dress and a REPOSSI ring. Photography by KURT ISWARIENKO. Styling by ALISON EDMOND. Hair by LAINI REEVES at ASM using Paul Mitchell. Makeup by MARY WILES at The Wall Group using Dior. Nails by TOM BACHIK using OPI.

“CREATIVE LIVING” (P.100): SAM FROST. “CELLULOID HERO” (P.114): TASYA VAN REE. “THE SUN KING” (P.108): RACHEL CHANDLER. “FINDING NEW GROUND” (P.90): KURT ISWARIENKO. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.126.

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CONTENTS

Departments

30 FOUNDER’S LETTER California as muse.

32 C PEOPLE Who’s who behind the scenes of C.

34 #CMYCALIFORNIA

80

Artist Austyn Weiner’s color-splashed universe.

83

39 C WHAT’S HOT David Lynch gets disruptive in Downtown Los Angeles. Where to shop in Yountville. Ceramist Miri Mara breaks the mold.

47

47 C FASHION Donatella Versace pays homage to the City of Angels. Fashion tomes for fall. Must-have arty accessories.

57 C BEAUTY

TOC 54 2

Rapunzel-worthy hair. A jewel-box salon debuts in Venice. Smoldering looks for the season.

63 C DESIGN Inside All Roads’ Joshua Tree studio. Uncovering the Bay Area’s secret gardens.

71 C MENU Night + Market’s Kris Yenbamroong adds author to his résumé. The hottest reservation in Napa.

40

77 C TRAVEL Hitting the high seas in style. The needto-know new rooms with a view.

71

83 C CULTURE Spotted! Yayoi Kusama in Los Angeles. A conversation with artist Connor Tingley.

126 SHOPPING GUIDE 128 WHEN IN Sonya Esman’s desert road trip.

130 PHOTO FINISH Jesse Jo Stark just wants to make beautiful music.

C 26 OCTOBER 2017

65 39

60


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MAGAZINE JENNIFER SMITH HALE

Founder + Editorial Director JENNY MURRAY

Editor + President RENEE MARCELLO

Publisher

JAMES TIMMINS

CRISTA VAGHI

Art Director

Executive Director, Southern California

ALISON EDMOND

Fashion Director

DEBBIE FLYNN

Executive Director, Fashion

ANDREA STANFORD

Design & Interiors Editor

AVERY TRAVIS

KELLY ATTERTON

Beauty Director

Executive Director, Jewelry & Watch

ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER

HEIDI KURLANDER-KAIL

Arts & Culture Editor

Executive Director, Beauty & Lifestyle

Masthead

MAYA HARRIS

Photo Editor

AUTUMN O’KEEFE

REBECCA RUSSELL

Executive Director, Northern California

ROBERT RICHMOND

Integrated Marketing Director

ANUSH BENLIYAN

MOLLY DOWNING OLIVIA MEYER

Market Editor

JILLIAN DeMARCHE

Digital Image Specialist Assistant Editor

Sales & Marketing Assistants

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TROY FELKER

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San Francisco Editor-at-Large Diane Dorrans Saeks Contributing Editor-at-Large Kendall Conrad Senior Contributing Editors Melissa Goldstein, Kelsey McKinnon Contributing Designer Gabrielle Mirkin Copy Editor Nancy Wong Bryan Special Projects Contributor Stephanie Steinman Contributing Editors Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith, Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson Contributing Writers Schuyler Bailey, Catherine Bigelow, Caroline Cagney, Kerstin Czarra, Heather John Fogarty, Marshall Heyman, Emily Holt, Gillian Koenig, Christine Lennon, Martha McCully, Degen Pener, Jessica Ritz, Lindzi Scharf, Khanh T.L. Tran, Elizabeth Varnell, S. Irene Virbila Contributing Photographers Christian Anwander, David Cameron, Francesco Carozzini, Roger Davies, Amanda Demme, Michelangelo di Battista, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Beau Grealy, Zoey Grossman, Kurt Iswarienko, Mona Kuhn, J.R. Mankoff, Kurt Markus, Ralph Mecke, David Roemer, Lisa Romerein, Takay, Jan Welters Interns Madison Ashton, Angelica Kharazmi, Fiona Moriarty-McLaughlin C PUBLISHING LLC

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FOUNDER’S LETTER

California has always been a creative state, with Hollywood and Silicon Valley leading the charge in dreaming big and thinking outside of the box. Along with thriving museums from north to south, an army of artists have set up their studios here, creating major pieces in our midst, prompting the world to take notice. As this is our Culture Issue, we are thrilled to shine a spotlight on the artistic endeavors that abound here. Celebrated creatives often experience a shift in the focus of their work. They push the boundaries and try something completely foreign to stretch their message into other dimensions. But, if artists are typically defined by genre, what happens when they pivot and work in another medium? While a bit risky, it can also be exciting to see how their talents can take shape in other arenas. Artist Alex Israel, for example, is someone who has been pushing his limits. He decided to tackle writing and directing his first feature film, SPF-18. Set in Malibu with a cast of talented young new discoveries, this vehicle for Alex’s vision is a fun, color-infused tale of an ’80s-influenced summer mixed with a great soundtrack. We are thrilled to have the behind-the-scenes exclusive on his project as he successfully navigates the transition to the big screen. Rodarte’s sibling designers, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, represent another transformation. Not content to tell their story through their esteemed fashion line alone, the women have written and directed their first film, Woodshock, starring their best friend (and unofficial sister) Kirsten Dunst. We have always admired Kirsten for her brave and bold career path while also remaining the ultimate cool girl—which is probably why she has been on our cover a record-breaking four times in our 12-year history. “Artist as model” was the inspiration for Tasya van Ree’s fashion portfolio, a series of self-portraits. With fashion director Alison Edmond riffing on Tasya’s signature style, the photographer is captured in classic black and white. This issue’s house feature, “Creative Living,” is a study in finding the perfect canvas, courtesy of MOCA’s Philippe Vergne and his wife, art consultant Sylvia Chivaratanond, who moved into an A.F. Leicht-designed residence in the hills above Chateau Marmont. Having been apartment dwellers for some time, the couple found that this home was their chance to become rooted in their newly adopted city. That their house is the perfect backdrop for their collection only solidifies that they have made the right move. With the Southern California art initiative “Pacific Standard Time: LA/LA” in full swing, new galleries and art foundations popping up, artists emerging from our shores, and heavyweight museums throughout the state continuing to grow, it is a good time to be creating and consuming art in California.

Founder’s Letter

JENNIFER SMITH HALE

We’d love to hear from you. Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.

C 30 OCTOBER 2017

DAVID DOWNTON

Founder, Editorial Director & CEO


Cle de Peau


C PEOPLE

Degen Pener “You think you’re going into a traditional Mediterranean house but inside you immediately feel something very different and quite special,” says Degen Pener, who profiled art consultant Sylvia Chivaratanond and MOCA Director Philippe Vergne in their A.F. Leicht-designed home for “Creative Living,” p.100. The West Hollywood-based editor also contributes to publications including The Hollywood Reporter and Cultured Magazine. C SPOTS • My partner and I recently bought land in Murrieta, and there’s an amazing hiking spot, the Santa Rosa Plateau Ecological Reserve, where we explore nature with our daughter • Two Harbors on Catalina Island is a secluded getaway. The village feels frozen in time in a great way • Dialog Cafe on Holloway is my favorite coffee shop in L.A.

Kurt Iswarienko “The opportunity to photograph Kirsten [Dunst] and make a collaborative story together in pictures was as rewarding as it gets for someone in my shoes,” says photographer Kurt Iswarienko, who captured the actor in this month’s cover story, “Finding New Ground,” p.90. In addition to shooting ad campaigns for brands such as Uniqlo and Netflix, the lensman’s work has also appeared in Interview, British GQ and Vanity Fair. C SPOTS • County Line Beach, where it feels like an adventure to surf • Carnitas Michoacan on Broadway—I grew up in Mexico City, so it makes me feel like I’m at home • Musso and Frank’s in Hollywood for the best martinis and steaks around

C People

Carl Duquette “Using an expired Type 59 Polaroid is always memorable,” notes Montreal native Carl Duquette, who assisted Tasya Van Ree in her self-portraiture for “Celluloid Hero,” p.114. “The colors are from a different era.” Duquette began his professional photography career while working under Frank Ockenfels for Cirque du Soleil. C SPOTS • Colombo’s in Eagle Rock for Italian food and an old-L.A. feel • I put together cars, so LKQ Pick Your Part in Sun Valley is great for random parts • Taylor’s in Koreatown has amazing steak

Connor Tingley “California is shimmied right up against the huge Pacific Ocean in a beautiful spot on our earth,” muses artist Connor Tingley, profiled on p.84. “I feel it’s the perfect place for me to make work right now.” Tingley, who has collaborated on works for publications including L’Uomo Vogue and Marie Claire, counts Cindy Crawford, A$AP Rocky and Sophia Loren among his collectors. C SPOTS • The Apple Pan in West L.A., where the ambience is synonymous with the taste; it is perfection • A lot of magic has happened for me at Milk Studios, in L.A. • Zushi Puzzle is my favorite spot in San Francisco for sushi

Anush Benliyan “I think the California desert is just as beautiful as our coastal locales,” says assistant editor Anush Benliyan of this issue’s “When In...,” p.128. The firstgeneration Armenian-American enjoys podcasting and fine-tuning her talents in violin, accordion and voice. C SPOTS • Lark Musical Society in Glendale is my second home. I’m a Lark Master Singer • HNL Studio in Encino for Helen’s blowouts • I find the loveliest cashmere and strappy sandals at Therapy boutique in Pasadena

WRITTEN BY ERICKA FRANKLIN. PENER: ERIC BUSHARD. ISWARIENKO: JORDIE TURNER. DUQUETTE: JUSTIN SMITH. TINGLEY: INGE PRADER. BENLIYAN: CLAIRE CHEN.

Who’s who behind the scenes of this month’s issue, plus their favorite California places


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#CmyCalifornia

SNAPSHOTS OF THE GOLDEN STATE, AS SEEN THROUGH THE EYES OF ITS BIGGEST FANS EDITED BY ANUSH BENLIYAN

Austyn Weiner

“California is a blank canvas with endless opportunity for exploration and experimentation—it calls for a journey inward,” says Miami-born artist Austyn Weiner, whose audacious works merge abstract art and photography, from her painted collage-derived self-portraits to her brushstroke photographs of models such as Gigi Hadid. “I feel my work, and I, have opened up since moving here,” says Weiner, who relocated her studio from New York City to L.A.’s Chinatown two years ago. Her next move: a solo exhibit and residency at Mexico City’s chlORO gallery starting in November.

“There is just nowhere else I would rather be—ever.” austynweiner.com.

“A design showroom tucked away in Hollywood Hills West. It is a one-stopshop for complete aesthetic inspiration.” By appointment only. 323-202-2025; thefutureperfect.com.

PORTRAIT AND STUDIO: ASHLEY NOELLE. CASA PERFECT: YOSHIHIRO MAKIRO.

CMYC


Loro Piana


#CmyCALIFORNIA

“A multidsciplinary arts complex that houses an array of creative spaces, including my own! It is my haven amongst the madness.” 1667 N. Main St., L.A., 323-776-9776; werkartz.com.

“This independent art space’s openings are filled with my favorite things: authentic art, authentic people and seriously authentic barbecue.”

“My favorite place in the world. Venture out of the park, off road, hang out with the locals—that’s where the magic’s at.”

2315 Jesse St., L.A.; bbqla.net.

“I love the people who inhabit this Frogtown space and the energy around it. It reminds me of why I make art in the first place: for the love of it.” 1989 Blake Ave., L.A., 917-714-6683; tinflats.la.

“Artist and jeweler Tini Courtney’s studio, which doubles as a shop and showroom. I love coming here, playing with some crystals, drinking green juice, then heading back to the east side.” 1629 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424-744-8260; handleonlywithlove.com.

BBQLA: JEFF McLANE; CURATED BY TIMO FAHLER. WERKARTZ: TRAVIS SCHNEIDER. TIN FLATS: ANDREA MARIE BREILING. JOSHUA TREE: AUSTYN WEINER. HOWL SHOWROOM: ASHLEY NOELLE.

CMYC


Jimmy Choo


Sulwhasoo


EDITED BY LESLEYXXXXXXXXX McKENZIE EDITED BY XXXXXX

Clockwise from far left: THE KILLS are among the performers at this year’s FESTIVAL OF DISRUPTION. Mastermind DAVID LYNCH. The facade of THE THEATRE AT ACE HOTEL in Downtown L.A. BON IVER is also set to take the stage this year. A scene from the inaugural fest.

WH (opener)

COURTESY OF THE DAVID LYNCH FOUNDATION

Mindful Meeting David Lynch, in all likelihood, is in your head. From the dream sequences in Twin Peaks’ Red Room to the auteur’s ethereal single with Lykke Li, “I’m Waiting Here,” to the murky underworld of Los Angeles night clubs in Mulholland Drive, his projects have a way of lingering in the psyche. In October, the hallucinatory surrealism of Lynch’s noirish narratives inspires a host of talks, performances, exhibitions and screenings at Downtown L.A.’s Theatre at

Ace Hotel during the second immersive Festival of Disruption, benefiting the artist’s eponymously named Transcendental Meditation foundation. The lineup, a combination of artists Lynch “knows, admires or loves,” according to Erik Martin, chief creative officer of David Lynch Foundation Live, includes The Kills, Bon Iver, DJ sets by Moby and Shepard Fairey, art by William Eggleston, and meditation to Brian Eno’s ambient album Reflection. “Since L.A. is so

central to David’s creative force, [director Thom Anderson’s 2003 documentary] Los Angeles Plays Itself is selected to illuminate how the city truly inspires his work,” says Martin, hinting that Lynch himself is likely to speak. “And there’s no one better to talk about the L.A. mystique than [artist] Ed Ruscha,” who is also on the bill. Let the brain bending begin. October 14-15. 933 S. Broadway, L.A., 213-235-9614; festivalof disruption.com. • ELIZABETH VARNELL OCTOBER 2017 C 39


WHAT’S HOT

SAN FRANCISCO JOSEF CENTENO’s tomato-dill pappardelle is featured in his new book.

DOWNTOWN L.A.

L.A. STORY Josef Centeno has been at the forefront of Downtown L.A.’s gastronomic renaissance since the 2011 debut of his restaurant Bäco Mercat (followed by Bar Amá, Orsa & Winston, Ledlow and P.Y.T.). Now, the chef-owner is capturing the eatery’s flavors—and his muse city’s multicultural character—in his first book, Bäco: Vivid Recipes from the Heart of Los Angeles (Chronicle Books, $35). “When I came to L.A., I thought of it as a blank canvas,” Centeno says. “It’s an amazing city for the perfect culinary storm.”

Moto Skills After honing her eye for design as a Pottery Barn textile buyer, San Franciscobased Catherine Wu shifted her focus to launching a line of leather jackets to replace a vintage moto she had lost. “I couldn’t find that perfect piece that was thin, soft and classic enough to invest in,” says Wu, who manufactures her Cat Wu label in L.A. using buttery Italian leathers lined with custom-printed silks. This fall, the collection expands to include a leather blazer, a suede midi coat and lightweight, foldable leather totes. catwu.com.

WH (turn)

SILVER LAKE

WALK THIS WAY

YOUNTVILLE

By the Numbers

Silver Lake-based designer Jill Burrows channels a love of babouches (traditional Moroccan slippers) into her new line of modern indoor footwear, handmade in L.A. shopjillburrows.com.

The CAT WU Classic Moto, $1,150, is available in five hues.

JILL BURROWS babouches, $78/pair.

Inside FORTY FIVE TEN NAPA VALLEY.

It is a truth universally acknowledged by residents and visitors of Yountville— the wine country home to Thomas Keller’s hardy restaurant fiefdom— that the city has long been in want of a lifestyle boutique. Forty Five Ten Napa Valley—the most eligible shopping prospect to arrive in the area in years—is up to the task. Having opened mere steps from Bouchon in July, the 865-square-foot shop is curated as precisely as Keller’s salmon cornets. Inside is an assortment of gifts, home goods and ready-to-wear looks by emerging labels Jacquemus and Tome, plus polished staples from Céline, Gabriela Hearst and Derek Lam. Local beauty mainstays Goop—a collaboration with Marin-based Juice Beauty—and April Gargiulo’s Vintner’s Daughter are among the potions available inside Forty Five Ten’s first outpost outside Texas. 6540 Washington St., Yountville, 707-346-4510; fortyfiveten.com.


Left, from top: MICHELE HOLMES’ signature feathered brow. The studio features wallpapers sourced from England and Sweden.

CORTE MADERA

WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH VARNELL, ANUSH BENLIYAN, JESSICA RITZ, GEMMA PRICE AND LESLEY M C KENZIE. BÄCO: DYLAN JAMES HO AND JENI ANFUSO. JILL BURROWS: JESS ISAAC. FORTY FIVE TEN NAPA VALLEY: MEG SMITH. MICHELE HOLMES STUDIO: MICHELE HOLMES. BENJAMIN MILLEPIED: VICTOR PICON, COURTESY OF LUMA FOUNDATION.

HIGH Brow

Patrons seeking perfect arches can now skip the eight-week house-call waiting list for brow guru Michele Holmes and swing by her charming new shop in Corte Madera instead. Inspired by quirky British hotels, the space is outfitted with unusual touches such as midcentury feather craft-art pieces—a nod to Holmes’ custom, tweezers-only 45-minute luxury feathered brow treatment. From $75. 211 Corte Madera Ave., Corte Madera, 415-7356920; micheleholmesstudio.com.

QUANTUM LEAP DOWNTOWN L.A.

WH (bits)

L.A. Dance Project (LADP) founder Benjamin Millepied seems to live in perpetual motion. His experimental multimedia commissions have lit up the Los Angeles arts scene since the company’s 2012 launch—even as Millepied decamped to his native France for the role of a lifetime, a two-year stint as director of dance at the Paris Opera Ballet. Now that he’s returned stateside, Millepied’s creative pace is nearing light speed. LADP inaugurates its new Arts District brick-andmortar rehearsal and performance space with a gala in October, which comes on the heels of a recently launched online fitness platform, L.A. Dance Workout. “Joy in movement set to music,” he says, “can

give you what you need for a healthy physicality.” Simultaneously, Millepied is also preparing to direct and choreograph his first feature film, a contemporary adaptation of the opera Carmen, in the coming year. Add the birth of daughter Amalia in February—doubling Millepied’s brood with his wife, actor Natalie Portman—and this creative’s dance card is clearly full. Still, each of Millepied’s innovative new projects pushes boundaries. Millepied says LADP’s new home allows for “one-of-a-kind, in-theround performances surrounding guests.” His Carmen, filming in Mexico and L.A., “is very much set around things we’re exposed to, including immigration,” he says. Meanwhile, the company’s streaming routines are meant to “bring pleasure back to workouts,” he says—to let rhythm and combinations take center stage rather than “sweating and suffering.” All in a day’s work. 2245 E. Washington Blvd., L.A., 213-293-9534; ladanceproject. com; ladanceworkout.com.

LOS ANGELES

Shine On Taking cues from the Grateful Dead and California in the ’70s, L.A. jewelry designer Jacquie Aiche fetes her 10th anniversary with an opal-inlay capsule collection that crafts a story within each piece. jacquieaiche.com.

Development of TREASURE ISLAND’s arts program will be privately funded.

SAN FRANCISCO

Hidden Gems As part of its ambitious revamp, San Francisco’s Treasure Island neighborhood (a one-time naval station) is slated to receive more than 300 acres of parks and open space, rounded out with $50 million of public artworks set to roll out over the next 20 years. Permanent sculptures are integral to the Treasure Island Arts Master Plan, which also calls for visual, performing and media arts by local, national and international artists alike. sfartscommission.org.

OCTOBER 2017 C 41


WHAT’S HOT

The revamped WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY features lush park zones planted with olive trees and aloe.

LOS ANGELES

Power Move Since moving to L.A. from Scotland a decade ago, stylist Joni Kilmurry has embraced California’s seasonless dressing. “I revel in being able to wear the same dress to the beach as you would to dinner,” says the former director of celebrity and VIP for Levi’s, who is launching her debut line, Héros, with three year-round, smartly tailored wardrobe essentials: a robe, a shirt and a jumpsuit, all customizable with hand embroidery. houseofheros.com.

CENTURY CITY

RETAIL Redux More than two years in the making, the $1 billion transformation of Westfield Century City will reach its fever pitch this fall with a flurry of new store openings. It’s all set against the backdrop of Kelly Wearstler’s open-air, garden-inspired redesign, encompassing modern-style teak furniture, an original Stan Bitters sculpture and courtyards bedecked with reflecting pools and Moroccan tiles. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310-277-3898; westfield.com.

KATHERINE SCHWARZENEGGER and her dog, MAVERICK.

WH (bits)

From left: Fireworks in a Tunnel, 2016, and Nice Ass, 2017, both by MIKE PERRY.

DOWNTOWN L.A.

Paint the Town New York City contemporary art gallery Garis & Hahn inaugurates its relocation to L.A.’s Downtown Arts District with a solo exhibition of the surreal work of Brooklyn artist and animator Mike Perry, whose title—“Intoxicating Pollen Wiggling in a Moist Journey of Constantly Blooming Tides”—and color-riotous content make for a memorable entrance. Through Oct. 21. 1820 Industrial St., L.A., 213-267-0229; garisandhahn.com. C 42 OCTOBER 2017

The C List

KATHERINE SCHWARZENEGGER After adopting her dog, Maverick, Katherine Schwarzenegger—daughter of journalist Maria Shriver and former California governor Arnold Schwarzenegger—felt compelled to write her new illustrated children’s book, Maverick and Me (WorthyKids/Ideals, $17), with the hope of teaching kids about rescuing animals. In between walking her pup and keeping up with her lifestyle blog (katherineschwarzenegger.com), here’s where you can find the L.A. native. • Cafe Vida This place in the Pacific Palisades is my favorite for any meal, but especially brunch. I love their egg-white omelet, and their grain pancakes are amazing. cafevida.net. • Caffe Luxxe I always get a hot almond-milk latte, even if it’s warm outside. caffeluxxe.com. • The Izaka-ya by Katsu-Ya West Hollywood My friends and I go to this spot because the food is delicious and the atmosphere is great. katsu-yagroup.com. • Venice Beach Even when cool new places go in, the culture remains the same.

WRITTEN BY MELISSA GOLDSTEIN AND LESLEY M C KENZIE. HÉROS DRESS: COURTESY OF HÉROS. WESTFIELD: RENEE CASCIA PHOTOGRAPHY. SCHWARZENEGGER: AZUSA TAKANO. PERRY PAINTINGS: COURTESY OF GARIS & HAHN.

The Robe by HÉROS, $625.


Mandarin Oriental


WHAT’S HOT Studio Visit

MIRI MARA PUTS A PROGRESSIVE SPIN ON CERAMICS IN HIS CARPINTERIA STUDIO

WH (bits)

Clockwise from top left: A wall installation of colorful bowls. MIRI MARA at work in his studio. Mara’s hanging Pisa pendant lights. A shelf at the showroom displays some of the ceramist’s smaller-scale works, including mugs. Mara hand-builds all of his prototypes in a process he calls “slab building.”

He infuses rings into his own work “to give movement,” including one of the more recent additions to his range, the Pisa hanging pendant light, which he coats with a mixed glaze of iron oxide, cobalt and chrome for a bronze effect that appears more metallic than ceramic. And while Mara has begun to introduce color into his bowls by layering glazes one on top of the other, surface texture and shape remain his preferred aesthetic tools. Mara carves, scratches or combs many of his machineage-inspired pieces, also taking design cues from traditional African and Southeast Asian ceramics. “Working in ceramics allows me to be more personal,” he reflects. “I don’t have to think of trends or fads, or what the manufacturer or sales rep thinks they want. Whatever conversation that I have regarding a design is a dialogue with myself.” 5292 Carpinteria Ave., Carpinteria, 805-220-6285; mirimara.com. • KENDALL CONRAD AND GILLIAN KOENIG

MARA AT WORK (2): ARNA B.

RING of Fire

While growing up in Rome, Italy, a career at a kiln was the last thing on ceramist Miri Mara’s mind. “I thought of ceramics as flowery or maybe too pretty for my taste,” says the artist, citing the traditional Italian botanical designs of pottery from Deruta and Faenza. “Of course, ancient Etruscan and Greek ceramics and Cycladic stone carvings were always a big turn-on,” jokes Mara, whose masculine sensibility permeates the modern assortment of earthenware he creates from his 2,000-square-foot studio and showroom in Carpinteria. The signature spool-shaped bowls, bottles, vases and, more recently, light fixtures are a harmonious study in texture and proportion, evoking a sleek simplicity that’s the result of an exacting procedure. “I make my pieces as pieces of sculpture, and therefore it is a very tactile process,” says Mara, 60, a former fashion designer in his native Italy, who forgoes the wheel and instead hand-constructs his prototypes after first drawing each on paper. “As I build I am constantly using my eyes to see that the proportions are balanced and just right.” Such precision is rooted in an almost boyish fascination with historical machinery and hardware that influences much of Mara’s work, fittingly crafted and housed in a former mechanic’s shop, which he opened in 2013. “I love the design of the industrial revolution, the turbines, the cogs, the wheels—all those objects that turn and turn,” says Mara. “So much of that period uses the wheel and the circle as a basic element.”


Montage Los Cabos


Longchamp

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Looks from the VERSACE Pre-Spring 2018 collection.

EDITED BY ALISON EDMOND

Fashion (opener)

COURTESY OF VERSACE

LA LA Land “I am in love with L.A.,” confesses Donatella Versace. In homage to the City of Angels, Versace’s creative director has scattered palm-tree prints, chains, black leather and faded denim throughout her Pre-Spring 2018 collection. “The diversity, freedom and individuality of the city reflect the different women who define Versace today,” she says. 248 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-205-3921; versace.com. • KHANH T.L. TRAN

OCTOBER 2017 C 47


FASHION

FREE Spirit

MAJE X SCHOTT Goodwin coat, $600. Below: Brooklyn jacket, $495.

After two decades as creative director of Missoni, Angela Missoni remains as playful as ever. The whimsical capsule collection she designed to commemorate her anniversary includes bright tanks and daisy-embroidered varsity sweaters. missoni.com.

MISSONI limited-edition sweatshirt, $1,325, and tank, $1,195.

Hooray for Hollywood

Fashion (bits)

Mixing It Up Schott’s military-inspired knits and jackets are elevated in the hands of Maje designer Judith Milgrom, who plays with proportions, volume and contrasting fabrics including sequins and orange satin. “I like mixing influences,” she says. “Collaborating with Schott allowed me to break Maje’s codes, which are very feminine and sexy.” 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A.; maje.com.

From above: LUXANTHROPY co-founders JENNIFER MANN HILLMAN and LISA EISLER. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN shoes sold on the site.

BEVERLY HILLS

ARTISANS at Work Tod’s is immersing its fans in the art of Italian craftsmanship. Through the brand’s website and boutiques, as well as a popup shop in New York through the end of October, customers can personalize their favorite driving shoe from the Gommino collection with colorful soles, hot-stamped initials and exotic materials such as alligator skin. 333 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310285-0591; 3333 Bristol St., C.M., 714-556-0239; tods.com. From left: TOD’S My Gommino Pop-Up shop, and a Gommino driving shoe.

C 48 OCTOBER 2017

WRITTEN BY KHANH T.L. TRAN. SCHOTT: MAJE X SCHOTT. MISSONI: COURTESY OF MISSONI. TOD’S: COURTESY OF TOD’S.

LOS ANGELES

Costume designer Lisa Eisler (whose onscreen wardrobe credits include ER and The West Wing) and marketing whiz Jennifer Mann Hillman are mining the closets of actors, stylists, agents and Hollywood influencers for their philanthropy-minded resale site, LuxAnthropy. Offering brands ranging from Gucci to Vince, the platform donates proceeds to charities such as Children’s Hospital Los Angeles and HELP USA. luxanthropy.com.


Marco Bicego

NEIMAN MARCUS, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE & YOUR NEAREST FINE JEWELER MARCOBICEGO.COM


GOOD READS

NEW BOOKS THIS FALL CELEBRATE THE BEST IN FASHION AND FEMININITY ALL ABOUT YVES Produced in collaboration with Yves Saint Laurent’s longtime love and business partner, Pierre Bergé, this compendium (Laurence King Publishing, $50) details the life story of the iconic designer, from his childhood rearing in a Mediterranean villa, to his meteoric rise fueled by sleek smoking jackets and sheer blouses, amid never-before-seen photos and sketches from Saint Laurent’s historic collections.

#GIRLGAZE: HOW GIRLS SEE THE WORLD Below, from left: Twilight Twins by EMMA CRAFT. Safia by AMAAL SAID.

Shutterbug Amanda de Cadenet’s new book (Rizzoli New York, $35) does more than promote female photographers. With contributions from Sam Taylor-Johnson, Inez van Lamsweerde and Lynsey Addario, it inspires a new generation to close the gender gap. “We represented different genres so that women knew how many options there are in this career,” de Cadenet explains.

Above, from left: A contact sheet from YVES SAINT LAURENT’s Fall/ Winter 1968 collection, photographed by PETER CAINE. The program for Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 1953 collection, featuring paper dolls.

CLAUDIA SCHIFFER, photographed by ELLEN VON UNWERTH in May 1991.

DRIES VAN NOTEN’s Spring/Summer 2015 show.

DRIES VAN NOTEN 1-100 CLAUDIA SCHIFFER With a foreword by Ellen von Unwerth and tributes from Cindy Crawford, Karl Lagerfeld and others, preeminent Guess muse Claudia Schiffer cements her supermodel status in an eponymous tome (Rizzoli New York, $65) that shares memorable photos spanning her three-decade-plus career. Schiffer reveals, “I felt ready—and actually really excited—to have this opportunity to reflect and take stock.”

C 50 OCTOBER 2017

To mark Dries Van Noten’s recent landmark, 100 fashion shows and collections, a new eponymous double-volume title (Lannoo Publishers, $180) showcases the complete works of the Antwerp Six alum, renowned for his immaculate tailoring and genius for bold patterns. British fashion journalist Susannah Frankel and esteemed show critic Tim Blanks offer context to complement 2,000-plus images from Van Noten’s oeuvre.

WRITTEN BY KHANH T.L. TRAN AND MELISSA GOLDSTEIN. #GIRLGAZE: (COVER) AMBER ZEEKAF; (LEFT PHOTO) TWILIGHT TWINS, EMMA CRAFT; (RIGHT PHOTO) SAFIA, AMAAL SAID. ALL ABOUT YVES: (C0VER) LAURENCE KING PUBLISHING; (CONTACT SHEET PHOTOS): PETER CAINE. CLAUDIA SCHIFFER: (PHOTO) © ELLEN VON UNWERTH, COURTESY RIZZOLI NEW YORK; (COVER) © MARIO TESTINO, COURTESY RIZZOLI NEW YORK. DRIES VAN NOTEN 1-100: (COVER) MARCIO BASTOS; (COLLECTION) PATRICE STABLE.

FASHION


Moreau


FASHION Trend

3.

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13.

PRADA Fall/Winter 2017.

1. GUCCI Dragon satin pumps, $1,590, Gucci, C.M. 2. DIOR Milky Way Mitzah scarf, $200, Dior, B.H. 3. LOUIS VUITTON Pochette Métis Flowers bag, price upon request, Louis Vuitton, B.H. 4. CH CAROLINA HERRERA vibrant printed silk scarf, $310, Carolina Herrera, B.H. 5. LOEWE Tote Toast bag, $1,790, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H. 6. ALEXANDER McQUEEN Needlepoint Tapestry boots, $1,890, alexandermcqueen.com. 7. MOSCHINO Editorial Print bucket bag, $1,150, Moschino, L.A. 8. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA Ilona printed wool mules, $725, charlotteolympia.com. 9. DOLCE & GABBANA Lucia bag with embellishments, $3,775, Dolce & Gabbana, B.H. 10. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM Drum boots, $750, 3.1 Phillip Lim, L.A. 11. BURBERRY The Medium Banner bag, $1,995, burberry.com. 12. PORTS 1961 hand-painted calico Bee sneakers, price upon request, farfetch.com. 13. FENDI FF Kan I velvet bag, $7,150, fendi.com.

Fashion (bits)

12.

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ART Attack

FROM PRINT TO PAINT, TAKE A CREATIVE LEAP WITH THE BEST ARTISTIC ACCESSORIES 9. 8. 10.

MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. COURTESY OF PRADA. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.126.

11.


Joe’s Jeans

santa monica // south coast plaza // joesjeans.com


FASHION Jewelry Box

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2. 1.

LOUIS VUITTON Fall/Winter 2017.

12.

Fashion (bits) 11.

CHAIN Reaction

10.

GET LINKED IN WITH MIXED METAL PIECES THAT PUNK UP THIS FALL’S LOOKS 9.

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1. BUCCELLATI Hawaii yellow-gold bracelet, $4,700, Buccellati, B.H. 2. BULGARI Divas’ Dream necklace, $123,000, Bulgari, B.H. 3. DAVID YURMAN Wellesley Link chain earrings, $1,250, David Yurman, B.H. 4. CARTIER High Jewelry necklace, price upon request, available by appointment only at Cartier, B.H. 5. EF COLLECTION diamond chain-link earrings, $2,795, efcollection.com. 6. ROBERTO COIN Chic and Shine bracelet, $3,000, us.robertocoin.com. 7. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Olympia necklace featuring diamonds, price upon request, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H. 8. FOREVERMARK BY JADE TRAU yellow-gold ID bracelet, price upon request, forevermark.com. 9. TAMARA COMOLLI Drop rose-gold necklace, $9,930, Neiman Marcus, S.D. 10. TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany HardWear link bracelet with pavé diamonds, $12,000, Tiffany & Co., B.H. 11. MARCO BICEGO handengraved ring, $2,990, Shreve & Co., S.F. 12. HARRY WINSTON diamond links earrings, price upon request, Harry Winston, B.H.

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MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. COURTESY OF LOUIS VUITTON. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.126.

4.


Crystals


©2017 SHREVE & CO.

Shreve

Explore

ELEGA NCE. With more than 50 jewelry designers and timepiece masters, Shreve & Co. is a destination 165 years in the making.

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LIVED-IN HAIR is a line of styled, reusable hair extensions from the partners behind RAMIREZ TRAN SALON in Beverly Hills.

WRITTEN AND EDITED BY KELLY ATTERTON

Beauty (opener)

JOSH TYVAN

Mane Attraction “We’re not launching a beauty brand, we’re beginning our expansion into lifestyle,” says Anh Co Tran, co-founder of Beverly Hills hair salon Ramirez Tran. He and his partner, Johnny Ramirez, recently introduced the Lived-In Hair extension collection: an unfussy range with a bedhead quality—hence the

name—which translates into the stylists’ edgy signature look. The well-priced collection, made from high-quality Mongolian hair, comes in Ramirez’s six custom-blended colors, each available in two lengths and styled by Tran to create optimal volume and texture. What’s more, they’re

outfitted with tape backings, meaning they’re not only quick and easy to apply, but can also be reused again and again. “Think of them as an invisible accessory—an enhancement,” says Tran. $140/14 inches, $190/18 inches. 8912 W. Olympic Blvd., B.H., 310-724-8167; ramireztran.com. •

OCTOBER 2017 C 57


All That Jasmine Refined glamour reigns in Jason Wu’s first fragrance, created with master perfumer Frank Voelkl and presented in a blush bottle designed by architect Andre Mellone. Redolent with Jasminum sambac, the scent is a nod to Wu’s childhood in Taiwan.

JASON WU fragrance, from $70/oz., body cream, $80, and foaming shower oil, $65.

saksfifthavenue.com.

KRISTEN SHAW is the founder of Venice’s new CABIN salon.

Beauty (turn)

VENICE

Small WONDER Known for creating classic looks that cater to each client’s own facial structure, hairstylist Kristen Shaw is the woman behind Cabin, a new intimate, two-chair salon in Venice. “[It’s] a place where you get one-on-one attention,” says Shaw, who also stocks an eclectic mix of products spanning haircare lines Playa and Davines to Kassia surf wax and EiR suncare. As for that second chair? It will play host to a rotation of in-demand beauty experts. $250/cut, $100/blowout; 1502 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; shopthecabin.com.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

The Goods

NYC beauty staple CAP BEAUTY opens in West Hollywood.

At the forefront of the natural beauty boom since 2014, CAP Beauty co-founders Kerrilynn Pamer and Cindy DiPrima have lain claim to a devoted cult following at their shop in New York’s West Village. Now they’re opening a boutique at the new Fred Segal flagship in West Hollywood, bringing their “beauty is wellness” philosophy to a convert-heavy L.A. audience, with an inventory that ascribes to a 100 percent natural, no-synthetic-ingredient standard. 8500 Sunset Blvd., W.H.; capbeauty.com.

SO CHEEKY “I wanted to create a brand that made beauty feel easy to women,” says Sheena Yaitanes, founder of the L.A.-based cosmetics label Kosås. She believes beauty should be relaxed, uplifting and not about striving for perfection. This modern approach is at the heart of Kosås, which launched in 2015 with four lipsticks, expanding to eight shades within a year. Yaitanes, who studied art and chemistry in college, formulates her products with active botanicals balanced by strategic, safe synthetics. “I wanted big color payoff with very little sensation of product on the lips,” she says. This fall, Kosås will launch two blushand-highlighter duos—an easy-to-blend cream and a mattifying (but not drying) powder. “Powder blush works best on oily skin or over foundation, while cream blush works beautifully on skin without a lot of other product; there’s something really feminine about that.” Once she finishes a scientific formulation, Yaitanes “explores the artistic side of the process,” she says. “I’m learning as I go, and that will be evident in the evolution of the brand over time.” So far so good; the range, which will eventually encompass a full-face collection, already counts Gwyneth Paltrow, Emilia Clarke and Rashida Jones as fans. kosascosmetics.com.

From top: SHEENA YAITANES. KOSÅS blush-andhighlighter duo, $34.

YAITANES: JULIA STOTZ. CABIN: TODD WILLIAMS. CAP BEAUTY: JOHN VON PAMER.

BEAUTY


Experience the before and after

Š2016 California Closet Company, Inc. All rights reserved. Each franchise independently owned and operated. CA977608

California Closets

See her space before #CCBeforeAfter californiaclosets.com 8 0 0 . 2 74 . 6 7 5 4


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5. 1. ORIBE Swept Up Volume Powder Spray, $42, bluemercury.com. 2. JO MALONE Vitamin E Lip Conditioner, $30, jomalone.com. 3. BAREMINERALS Round the Clock Intense Cream-Glide Eyeliner in Midnight Black, $17, ulta.com. 4. CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ Intensive Eye Contour Cream, $255, cledepeaubeaute.com. 5. URBAN DECAY Eyeshadow in Smokeout, $19, ulta.com. 6. SALLY HERSHBERGER 24K Supreme Body Volumizing Mousse, $32, sephora.com. 7. SHISEIDO Glow Revival Serum, $89, shiseido.com. 8. SULWHASOO Makeup Balancer, $55, sulwhasoo.com. 9. BEAUTYCOUNTER Lengthening Mascara, $29, beautycounter.com. 10. NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer, $45, narscosmetics.com. 11. RETROUVÉ Luminous Cleansing Elixir, $75, retrouve.com. 12. PAT McGRATH LABS Lust: MatteTrance Lipstick in Omi, $38, sephora.com. 13. EYEKO Brow Gel Shape & Define, $24, ulta.com. 14. MOROCCANOIL Dry Body Oil, $48, moroccanoil.com.

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NINA WESTERVELT

BEAUTY Trend

7.

Beauty (trend) BRANDON MAXWELL Fall/Winter 2017.

13. 12.

HEAVY Duty

FROM A STRONG EYE TO SLEEK HAIR, THIS SEASON IS ABOUT MAKING A STATEMENT 10. 11.

8. 9.


COMING SOON

MAGAZINE

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CURATING THE BEST FROM CALIFORNIA’S DESIGNERS, ARTISTS AND MAKERS

WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY 10250 SANTA MONICA BLVD., LOS ANGELES, CA 90067


Farrow & Ball


EDITED BY ANDREA STANFORD

Design (opener)

JANELLE PIETRZAK

Close Knit Thanks to her artful, artisanal textiles and wall hangings, All Roads’ Janelle Pietrzak has woven a web of devotees that includes Moon Juice’s Amanda Chantal Bacon and designers Ulla Johnson and Erica Tanov. Pietrzak is now spinning her magic in Joshua Tree, where she and her partner, Robert Dougherty (a metal

artist), have set up a new studio. After falling in love with the desert town years ago, the time was right in July to relocate from L.A., allowing more room in every sense. “The space, the quiet—it feels like an upgrade,” says Pietrzak. The pair shares the workspace and showroom with furniture makers Fire on the Mesa.

The mélange of texture at ALL ROADS in Joshua Tree includes yarn-and-brass wall hangings and handmade stoneware.

Though new to the community, Pietrzak is finding fresh inspiration for her custom work and continued collaborations with Anthropologie. “The plants and chaparral of the San Gabriel Mountains have always influenced my work,” she says. “Now I am immersed in nature daily.” allroadsdesign.com. • KERSTIN CZARRA OCTOBER 2017 C 63


PRESIDIO HEIGHTS

WELCOME Back

From far left: Artwork at THE LAUREL INN was sourced from Rob Delamater’s Lost Art Salon gallery, a San Francisco fixture. The inn’s original facade.

In April, Joie de Vivre unveiled the updated look of The Laurel Inn, a boutique hotel perfectly situated in San Francisco’s design-rich Presidio Heights neighborhood. The fresh interiors, by designer Oren Bronstein, are a nod to the site’s original 1950s architecture, with American walnut finishes, velvets in a soft blue and brown palette, and midcentury and contemporary artworks by local Bay Area artists. 444 Presidio Ave., S.F., 415-567-8467; jdvhotels.com. SAN FRANCISCO

Globe Trotter Beloved mod-bohemian blogger SF Girl by Bay (aka Victoria Smith) has teamed with East Bay boutique Elsie Green—known for its wanderlustevoking inventory—to curate a vintage collection. Gathered on a trip to France and Morocco, the Super Marché collection spans rattan furniture and artful ceramics to lighting and vintage textiles. There are also a few custom pieces, including a white lacquer Parsons table available with or without industrial wheels. “I’ve never been a fan of cookie-cutter interiors,” Smith says of the eclectic range. sfgirlbybay.com.

The EMILY & MERITT macramé table throw, $109.

Design (turn) HOME Free

“We wanted to create spaces that feel as timeless and loved as an old pair of jeans,” says Emily Current, describing her and her partner Meritt Elliott’s new decor and entertaining collection for Pottery Barn. The L.A. designer-stylist duo behind the fashion label The Great (and formerly of Current/Elliott) bring their unique mix of classic American style and West Coast ease to the line of cheerful tabletop accents and relaxed bedding. Like the pair’s trademark boyfriend jeans and tees, the design philosophy was rooted in casual living. “California is spirited, artistic and warm,” says Elliott. “That’s captured here.” potterybarn.com.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

A vintage hanging chair from SF GIRL BY BAY’s SUPER MARCHÉ collection, $950.

Vase Case Ariana Lambert Smeraldo’s floral boutique, Lily Lodge, is collaborating with L.A. artist Sandy Diamond, presenting organic arrangements in the artist’s one-of-a-kind ceramic vases hand-painted with the studio’s monogram. 644 N. Robertson Blvd., W.H., 310-360-9400; lilylodge.com.

SANDY DIAMOND for LILY LODGE textured vessels, $25-$400.

WRITTEN BY KERSTIN CZARRA AND ANDREA STANFORD. LAUREL INN INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR: AUBRIE PICK. EMILY & MERITT: (TABLE THROW) POTTERY BARN; (PORTRAIT) MI & MO PHOTOGRAPHY. SF GIRL BY BAY: LESLIE SANTARINA, COURTESY OF ELSIE GREEN. LILY LODGE: MATTHEW STOVALL. VINCE: VINCE. PRIVATE GARDENS: MARION BRENNER. LOLA JAMES HARPER: RAMI MEKDACHI. J.B. TAYLOR: (PORTRAIT) NIC TAYLOR; (BOOK) J.B. TAYLOR; (BOOK AND BOOKMARK) JOSH SCHAEDEL.

DESIGN


Book lover J.B. TAYLOR.

Material World Made from the same cashmere yarns as the brand’s fall ready-to-wear knits, the luxe pillows and blankets from the new Vince Home Collection add the perfect autumn decor layer.

Scent Trail

“There are blogs for obsessions on beauty, fashion, art, but nothing devoted to the romance of reading,” says J.B. Taylor. To share her love of vintage, offbeat books, the L.A. native created The Librarian (thelibrarian .com), a site that peeks inside the private libraries of people like India Hicks and celebrates book design, collectors and indie bookshops. “Making time to read is a luxury,” says Taylor. “It should be indulged in.” She also sources and curates vintage collections for retailers like Nickey Kehoe and Freda in Marfa, Texas, as well as private clients, marrying design and content. “I hope my custom libraries feel emotional and soulful.” Here, three of her current favorites: • My Life and Times by Henry Miller (1971)—“Celebrates the provocateur’s art, journals and bohemian Big Sur lifestyle.” • Collage by Herta Wescher (1963)—“One of my favorite art forms in an inspiring tome.” • Trees for Town and Country by Brenda Colvin (1972)—“A beautifully illustrated guide to tree cultivation.”

“California in the ’70s is my ideal era; it was such a time of trust, dreaming and lightness,” says Rami Mekdachi, founder of cult French lifestyle brand Lola James Harper. Mekdachi, who has collaborated with brands from Chloé to Colette over his 20-year career, has taken an alternative approach to the world of fragrance by aiming to evoke specific memories and experiences with each scent introduced. Now the full product line—from home fragrance to photographs and furniture—is available at DTLA’s Guerilla Atelier. Next up: Mekdachi will debut his first movie, With, and the inaugural Lola James Harper hotel concept, set to launch next year in Paris. 912 E. 3rd St. L.A., 310-3652194; guerillaatelier.com; lolajamesharper.com.

Above: THE LIBRARIAN’s signature bookmark on a Taylor vintage favorite. Right: A tome celebrating the art of collage.

vince.com. VINCE HOME COLLECTION pillows, from $275.

Left: A sublime vegetable garden in Portola Valley.

Design (bits)

GROWING Places

“Adventurous, spirited and eclectic” is how co-authors Susan Lowry and Nancy Berner describe the 30-plus unseen grounds captured in their new book, Private Gardens of the Bay Area (The Monacelli Press, $60). Berkeley-based photographer Marion Brenner’s images showcase everything from an English-style garden in La Honda to a Pacific Heights backyard brimming with Japanese maples and fruit trees; each is varied, yet united by a sense of drama. “The incredible landscape makes [people] unafraid to go after the ‘wow’ factor,” says Berner.

LOLA JAMES HARPER’s lifestyle store at GUERILLA ATELIER.

OPEN BOOK


GARDEN Glorious

ONE MIDSUMMER EVENING, MONTECITO’S LOTUSLAND BECAME A FASHION-INFUSED DREAMSCAPE This August, more than 500 guests—among them actor Zoe Saldana and polo star Nacho Figueras—gathered for Lotusland Celebrates: Avant Garden, an elegant evening at the late Madame Ganna Walska’s renowned 37-acre garden in Montecito. Amid the oversized agaves, mazes of hedges and wild cacti, Valentino presented its Fall 2017 confections during the lush affair brought to life by honorary chair, C Publishing founder and editorial director Jennifer Smith Hale. While naturally magical, Lotusland received an extra lift at the hands of Alice Ryan of A Company, Gina Andrews of Bon Fortune Style & Events and Rrivre Davies of Rrivre Works. The crowd sipped Cheurlin Champagne as they marveled at the surroundings, from botanical textiles and bright centerpiece

Design (bits) blooms to live ballet performances and a mesmerizing mural by painter Colette Cosentino—an artistic take on the newly renovated Japanese Garden. The gala raised more than $400,000 for Lotusland’s restoration. lotusland.org. • JENNIFER BLAISE KRAMER

Clockwise from top left: The cactus garden at LOTUSLAND. Table decor by BON FORTUNE STYLE & EVENTS, with flowers by LOULOUDI. ZOE SALDANA wearing VALENTINO. GARANCE DORÉ and CHRIS NORTON. Event chairs BELLE HAHN COHEN, JENNIFER SMITH HALE, RACHEL WRYAN, all in Valentino. Valentino’s Fall 2017 collection throughout the garden.

CACTI, TABLES, MANNEQUINS UNDER ARCHWAYS: CHRISTY GUTZEIT. SALDANA, MANNEQUINS IN GARDEN, EVENT CHAIRS: STEFANIE KEENAN. DORÉ AND NORTON: BLUE GABOR.

DESIGN


Flexform SF

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OPENING OCTOBER 2017 LOS ANGELES 308 North Robertson Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90048 info@33sixty.com www.33sixty.com


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Design (trend) Model Isabella Peschardt at Nashville’s Urban Cowboy B&B.

9.

1. BLOCK SHOP Sunrise Indigo pillow, from $85, blockshoptextiles.com. 2. ROSE TARLOW MELROSE HOUSE Turandot linen in Lago, price upon request, rosetarlow.com. 3. KIM SEYBERT Stencil placemat in Gray and Indigo, $23 each, kimseybert.com. 4. CANVAS HOME Lithuanian linen fringe napkin, $15 each, canvashomestore.com. 5. WATERWORKS RedBank decorative field tile Parquet in Bluebird brushed, price upon request, waterworks.com. 6. FRAGMENTS IDENTITY Vintage Burkina Faso Indigo Blues pillow, $325, fragmentsidentity.com. 7. PORTER TELEO Fair Jardinier hand-painted fabric in Bleu, price upon request, porterteleo.com. 8. FARROW & BALL Pitch Blue, from $99, farrow-ball.com. 9. SERENA & LILY Carpinteria Rug, $798$2,498, serenaandlily.com.

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MOODY Blues

IN INDIGO, COBALT,, OR CERULEAN, THESE MUTED SHADES SET A PERFECTLY RELAXED DECOR TONE 5. 7. C 68 OCTOBER 2017

6.

PHOTOGRAPHY: JEN SENN. MAKEUP: TALIA BRI FAVALE. STYLING: DAISY HARTMANN AND ELIZABETH NESMITH. OVERALLS: COURTSHOP. BANDANA: APPRVL. CUFFS: HORSETHIEF SILVER. BRA: DAISY & ELIZABETH. FRAGMENTS IDENTITY PILLOW: JENNA PEFFLEY.

DESIGN Trend


Serena & Lily

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High Camp Supply

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REPRINTED FROM NIGHT + MARKET: DELICIOUS THAI FOOD TO FACILITATE DRINKING AND FUN-HAVING AMONGST FRIENDS. © 2017 BY KRIS YENBAMROONG. PHOTOGRAPHS © 2017 BY MARCUS NILSSON. PUBLISHED BY CLARKSON POTTER, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE, LLC.

EDITED BY LESLEY McKENZIE

Clockwise: NIGHT + MARKET’s grilled sweetcorn with coconut glaze. Shrimp and pork fat Golden Triangles. A table laden with chef KRIS YENBAMROONG’s Thai dishes.

Menu (opener)

Main Title here Some Like It Hot

A NEW TOME CAPTURES CHEF KRIS YENBAMROONG’S FUN AND FLAVORFUL TAKE ON THAI CUISINE OCTOBER 2017 C 71


The pages of the new Night + Market cookbook (Clarkson Potter, $35) are so saturated with color and electrifying ideas about Thai cooking, you can almost feel the delicious burn on your fingertips. Chef Kris Yenbamroong’s Night + Market restaurants in West Hollywood and Silver Lake (and soon Venice) became a sensation because of his inventive take on dishes like crispy rice salad, fried chicken wings and the notorious luu suk—that’s pig’s blood soup. He shares them all here, with detailed instructions and brilliant Instagram-style photos. Yenbamroong comes from a restaurant family—his parents owned Talésai, the upscale West Hollywood Thai spot that Night + Market subsumed—and early on, he concluded that “looseness” is a good trait in a cook. And so, the book starts with his grandmother’s classic recipes and works into his streamlined variations and hacks (Yenbamroong even confesses that one of Night + Market’s famous “Thai” dishes, fried pig tails, was invented after he spotted them in a meat market). All the way, Yenbamroong nudges readers to have their own fearless way with his recipes. • MICHALENE BUSICO

Clockwise from left: Yenbamroong. Chop suey eggplant. NIGHT + MARKET SONG in Silver Lake.

Menu (turn) SOUTHERN

WRITTEN BY GEMMA PRICE, MAILE PINGEL AND LESLEY MCKENZIE. NIGHT + MARKET (4): REPRINTED FROM NIGHT + MARKET: DELICIOUS THAI FOOD TO FACILITATE DRINKING AND FUN-HAVING AMONGST FRIENDS. © 2017 BY KRIS YENBAMROONG; PHOTOGRAPHS © 2017 BY MARCUS NILSSON. PUBLISHED BY CLARKSON POTTER, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE, LLC. WEEKNIGHT SOCIETY: JEFF HOBSON. WINSTON PIES: WINSTON PIES. ESTE OESTE: WES ROWE PHOTOGRAPHY.

MENU

BRENTWOOD

Charms

Lawyer-turned-baker Brianna Abrams brings her online venture to Brentwood with a new shop, Winston Pies. An assortment of Abrams, a native of Winston-Salem, WINSTON PIES. N.C., creates seasonal, natural flavors like Blue Ridge blueberry and her grandmother’s lemon meringue, sold by the slice and in a host of sizes, from whole pies to hand pies to bites. 11678 San Vicente Blvd., L.A.; 310-207-5743; winstonpies.com. SAN FRANCISCO

On the Map

A coconut curry dish from WEEKNIGHT SOCIETY.

Prep Squad Family meal planning gets an upgrade with the Weeknight Society app, complete with weekly menus, healthy-ingredient-driven grocery lists and step-by-step photos. weeknightsociety.com.

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Tickets for the ESTE OESTE concept are from $75/person.

Este Oeste, the latest incarnation of the quarterly rotating cuisine-and-cocktail bar concept Over Proof (staged in the mezzanine of San Francisco cocktail bar ABV), whisks patrons to Spain’s sundrenched coasts. Chef Collin Hilton’s spin on rustic dishes (housecured sardines, brown-butter poached prawns) takes center stage during two nightly seatings Thursday through Saturday, alongside gin- and sherrydriven cocktails. Through Oct. 28. 3174 16th St., S.F.; overproofsf.com.


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MENU

NAPA’S New Perch

CHEF CHRIS COSENTINO COOKS UP THE QUINTESSENTIAL WINE COUNTRY DINING EXPERIENCE

C 74 OCTOBER 2017

caviar. His “surf & turf” combines crunchy sweetbreads with tender chunks of lobster over a gutsy ravigote sauce, and a vegetarian entrée of whole roasted eggplant is given the Sicilian treatment with blistered tomatoes, capers, chili and pistachios. The Napa neighbors are front and center on the wine list, with prestige cabernet sauvignon from big names such as Beringer Vineyards and Dominus Estate, as well as limited-production bottlings usually available only at the wineries, including Corison’s Corazón cabernet rosé and Grace Family Estate cabernet sauvignon. Sometimes, the neighbors themselves are front and center too: Yes, that was Grace Family proprietor Richard Grace dining out on the veranda. 1915 Main St., St. Helena, 707-963-9004; lasalcobasnapavalley.com. • MICHALENE BUSICO

Menu (bits)

Clockwise from top left: Inside ACACIA HOUSE. Whole roasted eggplant. LAS ALCOBAS. Business partner OLIVER WHARTON and chef CHRIS COSENTINO. Caramelized white chocolate tres leches.

INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR: JASON DEWEY PHOTOGRAPHY. FOOD: CURTIS CAMERON. PORTRAIT: BLAKE SMITH.

The fantasy of the Napa Valley good life may actually come true, if only for a few hours, at Acacia House, chef Chris Cosentino’s new restaurant at Las Alcobas resort in St. Helena. The experience begins by pausing on the wide veranda—the restaurant is housed in a 1907 Victorian overlooking the vineyards—then stepping into the elegantly rustic dining room and bar. Order one of the carefully made cocktails as the tawny daylight fades—perhaps a Bee Balm, with gin, dolin blanc, Saint-Germain and dill, or a Margarita Las Alcobas, topped with a froth of “salt air.” Then pair your beverage with what Cosentino calls “chips & dip,” a tumble of golden gaufrettes with creamy, lemon-tinged lebneh and dollops of caviar. This is just the beginning. The delicate luxury is seductive and surprising. At his San Francisco restaurant, Cockscomb, Cosentino is famous for developing bold flavors and a menu that doesn’t shy away from offcuts; his new cookbook, written with Michael Harlan Turkell, is called Offal Good (Clarkson Potter, $40). But the chef bristles at the idea that he’s gilded the menu here. “An onion can be a luxury ingredient, if it’s treated properly,” he says, citing as evidence the Acacia House corn risotto, made with popcorn-infused butter, dried corn, fresh kernels and even cornstalks. The schnitzel also ups the ante with a thick, juicy slice of Spanish Iberico pork embellished with a rich beurre blanc and a little salad tossed with ranch dressing and


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Celebrate the Season

Christmas Boutique, Opening October 6th THE SHOPS AT ROGER’S GARDENS

Rodger’s Gardens

The Gardens • The Garden Rooms • The Gallery • The Floral Studio ROGERSGARDENS.COM


ZOE DICKENS

EDITED BY LESLEY McKENZIE

MY SONG in the Mediterranean during the LORO PIANA SUPERYACHT REGATTA.

Nautical by Nature

LORO PIANA HOSTS ITS ANNUAL SUPERYACHT REGATTA IN SARDINIA AND SETS THE TONE FOR HIGH-PERFORMANCE GEAR ON AND OFF THE WATER OCTOBER 2017 C 77


The race passing Porto Cervo, Italy. Right: YACHT CLUB COSTA SMERALDA at night.

Clockwise from above: MY SONG during the regatta. Limited-edition bomber jackets. Looking onto the race from Porto Cervo. PIER LUIGI LORO PIANA at the helm of My Song. A bird’seye view of Porto Cervo.

C 78 OCTOBER 2017

At the ninth annual Loro Piana Super­ yacht Regatta—a highlight of the Mediterranean summer sailing season—the sponsoring fashion brand’s sleek Porto Cervo Bomber Windmate jacket made a splash amid Sardinia’s Peter Marino-­ designed Yacht Club Costa Smeralda. In its 200-year-old history, the label renowned for its fine cashmere jackets and sweaters (with stores across the globe, including Beverly Hills, San Francisco and Costa Mesa) has also crafted sportswear for the equestrian world, the golf course and the ski slopes. Creating a piece of lightweight clothing inspired by the sea—and hosting a regatta to match—was only natural. Deputy Chairman Pier Luigi Loro Piana presides over the four-day race and competed this year in his 40-meter maxi yacht, My Song. “A lot of riders, or yachtsmen, are our customers, our friends.” Over the years, organizers moved the race from Capri to Sardinia, where the landscape is protected with nice, steady winds and not too many waves (they added a second base in the Caribbean at Virgin Gorda, extending the event’s international presence). Mr. Loro Piana encourages all visitors, not just sailors, to explore Sardinia and its neighboring islands by boat, because the water offers an eye-opening perspective that mere road travel cannot. When on land, he suggests stopping in the quaint little restaurants and shops of Porto Cervo. “If you come, you can stay for a full summer and continue to discover nice spots and get the taste and the feeling of Sardinia, especially in Costa Smeldera,” he says. The brand, meanwhile, continues to innovate in the outdoor adventure realm, be it with their Icer Short ski jacket crafted in their waterproof and wind-resistant “baby cashmere Storm System,” or a lightweight cashmere overcoat/rain jacket. “The more experience you have, the more possibility you have of doing something new,” says Mr. Loro Piana, whose mission begins with sourcing the best fabrics. “Luxury for me is quality with no compromise.” loropiana.com. • JENNIFER BLAISE KRAMER

PORTRAIT, AERIAL VIEW, YACHT CLUB AND REGATTA (3): CARLO BORLENGHI

TRAVEL


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TRAVEL

Custom architectural chandeliers and playful deer bust sculptures bring a contemporary sensibility to the great room at THE LODGE AT EDGEWOOD TAHOE.

Fans of Lake Tahoe are apt to choose sides— staunchly favoring particular areas along the idyllic shores and the snow-capped Sierras. With the recent opening of The Lodge at Edgewood Tahoe, a rustic-modern addition to the 235-acre lakefront property known for its historic golf course, the case for South Lake just got stronger. The LEED-certified hotel’s HBA-designed interiors feature soaring ceilings, warm wood materials, stone fireplaces and sculptural wall art made from salvaged trees, with jaw-dropping views of the beach just beyond the floor-to-ceiling lobby windows. There’s also a pier for water sports, an infinity-edge pool, a luxe 8,500-square-foot spa and an in-house adventure center poised to coordinate kayaking, paddleboarding or more extreme pursuits, for those whose extracurriculars extend beyond the nearby casinos. Our favorite way to end the day? With a bracing cucumber rickey, sipped at sunset from an Adirondack chair flanking one of several outdoor fire pits. Rooms from $300; 100 Lake Parkway, South Lake Tahoe, 775-588-2787; edgewoodtahoe.com.

Paddleboards and kayaks line the beach at Edgewood. Below: A guest bath is equipped with a fireplace and looks out onto the lake.

VIEWFINDERS

SET AGAINST DRAMATIC VISTAS, THREE NEW HOTELS MAKE FOR THE ULTIMATE WEEKEND ESCAPES Following a total makeover by the creative agency Folklor, the lodging near Paradise Cove formerly known as the Malibu Riviera Motel has been rechristened Native Hotel: a spare, stylish take on a surf compound. Interiors of the property and its 13 guest rooms reflect global and local influences, with classic American modernist lighting fixtures by Greta Grossman and George Nelson scattered throughout. Brooklyn-based designer Jill Lindsey curated the lobby shop, while chef Ludo Lefebvre concocted the menu at the Coffee & Waffles trailer on site. The property also houses a wellness center, and once completed this fall, a campsite program operated in partnership with lifestyle gurus Habitas will truly be the stuff of California dreams. Rooms from $395; 28920 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu, 424-644-0517; thenativehotel.com. A custom patchwork headboard of hemp and linen by Stephen Kenn is the focal point of a guest room at THE JEREMY WEST HOLLYWOOD.

From left: Chef LUDO LEFEBVRE’s COFFEE & WAFFLES serves four kinds of waffles. The lobby at NATIVE HOTEL.

The latest addition to the Sunset Strip, The Jeremy West Hollywood lands on the historic, hard-partying boulevard with 286 guest rooms (including 48 suites and two penthouse suites) outfitted in nuanced modern decor that tempers the destination’s reputation for all-out glitz. Illustrious architecture firm Skidmore, Owings & Merrill is behind the sleek, double-towered building, which features whimsical signatures such as artist Janet Echelman’s multistory Dream Catcher installation. The in-house all-day eatery Etcho and Old Hollywood-inspired Joao hotel bar offer sustenance to fuel guests long into the night. Rooms from $350; 8490 W. Sunset Blvd., W.H., 310-424-1600; jeremyhotel.com.

WRITTEN BY MELISSA GOLDSTEIN AND JESSICA RITZ. EDGEWOOD TAHOE: (INTERIORS) NOAH WEBB; (KAYAKS) EDGEWOOD TAHOE. NATIVE HOTEL: (TRAILER) SAM SHENDOW; (LOBBY) DYLAN + JENI. THE JEREMY WEST HOLLYWOOD: COURTESY OF THE JEREMY WEST HOLLYWOOD.

Travel (bits)


Trunk Show Fall Forward in Style

OLIVER PEOPLES

Oliver Peoples The Row Board Meeting 2 in brushed gold and grey, $585. Oliver Peoples South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bear St., Ste. 322, C.M., 714-557-7000; Oliver Peoples Malibu, 3900 Cross Creek Road, Ste. 8, Malibu, 310-4561333; oliverpeoples.com.

JOE’S JEANS

The Smith jean with pearl embellishments, $298. Joe’s Santa Monica Place, 395 Santa Monica Place, Ste. 171W, 310-458-6161; Joe’s South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bear St., Ste. 147, 714-979-0221; joesjeans.com.

LONGCHAMP

Longchamp Mademoiselle handbag in Cognac, $1,165. Longchamp South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., Ste. 2259, C.M., 714-436-1963; Longchamp San Francisco, 114 Grant Ave., S.F., 415-3627971; longchamp.com.

Trunk Show

JIMMY CHOO

Lance suede sandals with hotfix crystals, $2,095. Jimmy Choo Beverly Hills, 240 N. Rodeo Drive, B.H., 310-860-9045; jimmychoo.com.

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WRITTEN AND EDITED BY ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER

QAGOMA PHOTOGRAPHY. © YAYOI KUSAMA

Culture (opener)

YAYOI KUSAMA’s The Obliteration Room, 2002. Visitors are asked to cover the originally allwhite space with colored polka-dot stickers.

Never-Ending Story The wonderland environments of artist and polka-dot queen Yayoi Kusama reflect a Japanese woman’s lifelong obsession with infinity. Her mirrored rooms are filled with dotted objects that appear to multiply endlessly; the tiny yellow lights of Aftermath of Obliteration of Eternity, for instance, evoke the mystery of being suspended in space. For The Broad’s first visiting special exhibit, “Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors,”

museumgoers will have the opportunity to experience six of the artist’s rooms, as well as her incredibly detailed “Infinity Net” paintings (which turned abstract impressionism on its head in the 1950s), her signature “Accumulation” assemblages (domestic objects such as furniture that appear to be consumed by protrusions) and exuberant figures that call to mind peasant or folk art. For most of her life, the 88-year-old

Kusama has been a towering female figure in the male-dominated art world. Her work, which also encompasses antiwar happenings, optical art and film, channels her mental illness—she has been willingly institutionalized since the 1970s. She often paints what she sees, interpreting the literal into a magic-tinged, overwhelming abstract. Oct. 21-Jan 1. 221 S. Grand Ave., L.A., 213-232-6200; thebroad.org. •

OCTOBER 2017 C 83


Left: The artist in his Woodland Hills studio. Below: Untitled, 2015, in oil and charcoal.

CONNOR TINGLEY in action.

LOS ANGELES

ON the Move Connor Tingley may be young, but he’s already lived nine lives. After becoming inspired by a Pixar film at age 11, he was introduced to art instructor Sheldon Borenstein, who promptly asked to mentor the young Tingley. “‘You need to think bigger,’ he told me,” Tingley fondly recalls. “[He said,] ‘I want to teach you, and you’re going to digest and regurgitate in your own way.’” The prodigy started sketching live models and studying classical painting in the Florentine style while studying with Borenstein. When he graduated from high school, he entered the Art Center College of Design but dropped out and started working for hip-hop artist Kid Ink, developing album covers and accessories and providing creative direction. Next thing he knew he was on Kanye West’s “Yeezus” tour. “It was a very hectic environment, but it

was phenomenal,” he says. Collaborating with hairstylist Peter Savic, Vogue Italia fashion editor-at-large Patti Wilson and makeup artist and Nars founder François Nars has led to projects with L’Uomo Vogue and Marie Claire. But to Tingley, fine-art painting has always been home. Recently returned to his native Los Angeles from his first solo exhibition show in Bucharest, Tingley is now playing with industrial materials and “exploring how to bring light to art that I consider intuitive, like when you look up into the clouds and see a face.” And, of course, he is drawing a ton. “Drawing helps me review my reality and the idea that I can just observe and put it down on paper. I can then return whenever I need to and actually bring that idea to life.” @connortingley.

Culture (turn)

LOS ANGELES

Lunch Bunch Ladies of L.A. will get together at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel this fall to honor Santa Barbarabased philanthropist and collector Lillian Lovelace and provocative Iranian-American artist Tala Madani for the Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles’ 10th annual Distinguished Women in the Arts luncheon. Guests will also be treated to a viewing of the Etro Resort 2017 collection. Nov. 1. moca.org.

C 84 OCTOBER 2017

TALA MADANI in her studio.

SAN FRANCISCO

ART in Place

TINGLEY IN STUDIO: JAMES MACKEL. MADANI: ADAM LAYCOCK. CANDLE RUG: COURTESY OF ALFREDO JAAR, NEW YORK. EVANS PHOTO: COURTESY OF THE SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART. ABDALIAN SCULPTURE: ROBERT HERRICK. RIPPON BOTTLE: COURTESY OF THE CROCKER MUSEUM OF ART. HAMMER GALA: BILLY FARRELL / BFA. KLIMT PAINTING: COURTESY OF THE FINE ARTS MUSEUMS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

CULTURE

A rug design by ALFREDO JAAR.

At the demilitarized chapel in Fort Mason, artists have contributed creatively arranged prayer rugs as part of a For-Site Foundation project— asking visitors to reflect on the hotbutton issue of refugees and shelter. “Sanctuary,” Oct. 7-March 11. 2 Marina Blvd. S.F., 415-362-9330; for-site.org.


Gelatin silver print Truck and Sign, 1928-1930, by WALKER EVANS.

CULTURE SAN FRANCISCO

In the Machine For the largest exhibition ever at CCA Wattis Institute for Contemporary Arts, director and chief curator Anthony Huberman has gathered a global group of artists who disrupt systems and infrastructures—warping the everyday. “Mechanisms” includes well-known photographers such as Louise Lawler alongside younger voices such as sculptor Zarouhie Abdalian. Oct. 12-Feb. 24. 360 Kansas St., S.F., 415-355-9670; wattis.org.

SAN FRANCISCO

PEOPLE Watching Fresh from the Musée National d’Art Moderne at the Centre Pompidou, Clément Chéroux, the new senior curator of photography at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, has launched a large-scale retrospective of American photographer Walker Evans. Consisting of more than 400 items, including inspirational ephemera, vintage prints and photographs documenting the Great Depression for the Farm Security

In Joint (ii), 2016, ZAROUHIE ABDALIAN sanded down hand tools to remove their functionality.

Administration, the exhibit explores Evans’ obsession with mass culture, signage and street life, elevating the mundane to the eternal. Sept. 30-Feb. 4. 151 3rd St., S.F., 415-357-4000; sfmoma.org.

WESTWOOD

Garden Party

RUTH RIPPON’s Bottle (green with opal), circa 1979.

The neighborhood glam quotient goes up a notch in Westwood this month at the Hammer Museum’s annual Gala in the Garden, which this year honors director Ava DuVernay and writer and theater critic Hilton Als. L.A.-based sibling trio Haim performs, and Bottega Veneta sponsors. Oct. 14. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310-443-7081; hammer.ucla.edu.

Cultre (bits) Last year’s gala honored Laurie Anderson and Todd Haynes.

SAN FRANCISCO

SEE Double

SACRAMENTO

Unearthed Timed to her 90th birthday, Sacramento native Ruth Rippon is the subject of a comprehensive survey at the Crocker Museum of Art this October. A key player in the West Coast ceramics movement of the last century, Rippon’s stunning works encompass everything from ancient Greek themes to pop art and are beloved far beyond her hometown. “Exuberant Earth: Ceramics by Ruth Rippon,” Oct. 29-Feb. 4. 216 O St., Sacramento, 916-808-7000; crockerart.org.

“Klimt & Rodin: An Artistic Encounter” marks the first time many of Austrian painter Gustav Klimt’s iconic works can be seen in the States. The Legion of Honor exhibit also examines Klimt’s only meeting with sculptor Auguste Rodin, in 1902. Oct.14-Jan. 28. 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, S.F., 415-750-3600; famsf.org.

GUSTAV KLIMT’s Johanna Staude, 1917.


CULTURE

Clockwise from left: The Commons main plaza. Members of BALLNOGUES STUDIO reused the former parking lot’s cement in their work. A final version of the terrazzo Welcome Terrace East & West.

A DIFFERENT Story

Back in 1982, the fledgling Headlands Center for the Arts took over nine buildings from the National Parks Service, giving artists a place to work as well as free rein to reimagine two of the structures—1907 Fort Barry barracks—into site-specific artworks. In one building, renegade David Ireland stripped the walls down to the original plaster and sandblasted the ceilings to reveal its tin panels, then designed curved modular furniture with architect Mark Mack to fill the space. Bay Area design luminaries Bruce Tomb and John Randolph tackled the whimsical latrine, visual artist Ann Hamilton revamped the mess hall, and systems-themed interdisciplinary artist Carrie Hott created The Key Room, a space dedicated to categorizing disparate objects. Today the organization hosts approximately 50 national and international artists from all disciplines who live on site, break bread together and often collaborate in their endeavors, both professionally and personally. “We have a lot of marriages that have come out of here,” says Sharon Maidenberg, executive director, noting that

Culture (bits) From above: The Rodeo Room by DAVID IRELAND. Letters from CHRIS KABEL’s Wall Space text display. NATHAN LYNCH working on Doubledrink. Telephones in The Key Room, where visitors can pick up a handset and listen to sounds relating to curios from Headlands’ past, cataloged by CARRIE HOTT.

musicians are often the party wranglers, gathering the clan for late-night dance parties followed by bowling in the vintage alley (where the pins are set by hand). For its first major evolution in 15 years, Headlands raised $1.8 million to create a new outdoor area designed by CMG Landscape Architecture, commissioning three artists to rephrase the area. Dutch artist Chris Kabel crafted a sculptural installation, entitled Wall Space, to display text; Los Angeles-based Ball-Nogues Studio reworked the original concrete driveway into a graphic terrazzo floor sculpture; and Bay Area artist Nathan Lynch created Doubledrink, a two-way drinking fountain that brings sippers face-to-face. And the outside world is expected to participate. “We have always been more publicly oriented than most residencies,” explains Maidenberg. “There’s more interest in the mix.” October marks a rekindling of the center’s open house and ongoing exhibitions, with opportunities to visit artists Will Rogan and Edra Soto, among others, in their workspaces. There’s also intimate artist talks, Sunday suppers, member dinners, hikes and more throughout the fall. Or visitors can simply drop by for coffee. “At Headlands we make up our own rules,” says Maidenberg. Open house, Oct. 15; special fall project exhibition, Nov. 5-17. headlands.org. •

FIRST EXTERIOR, WELCOME TERRACE: ROBERT HERRICK. BALL-NOGUES CEMENT WORK: COURTESY OF BALL-NOGUES STUDIO. RODEO ROOM, PHONES: ANDRIA LO. WALL SPACE DISPLAY: COURTESY OF HEADLANDS. LYNCH: JAN STURMANN.

WITH A TRIO OF NEW WORKS ON VIEW, THE HEADLANDS CENTER FOR THE ARTS OPENS ITS STUDIOS FOR THE FALL


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OCTOBER

Feature (opener)

TASYA VAN REE in a VERA WANG COLLECTION gown, $1,850. JANESSA LEONÉ hat, $197. SOPHIE MONET ring, $88.


Feature (tbd)

GUCCI jacket $4,100, and pants, $1,500. BUCCELLATI ring, $380.


Finding New Ground

For Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s first feature film, it was Featureonly (tbd) natural that they tapped their best friend Kirsten Dunst for the starring role—but they say she’s actually the only person who could have played the part. C sat down with the trio to recap their collaboration on Woodshock, which was set deep within an old-growth forest in Northern California PHOTOGRAPHY BY KURT ISWARIENKO STYLING BY ALISON EDMOND WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON


Feature (tbd)


Feature (tbd)

SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO dress, $6,990, and choker, $895. COLETTE earrings, $1,800. Opposite: BALENCIAGA dress, $4,350.


Feature (tbd)


Feature (tbd)

RODARTE dress, similar styles available. BUCCELLATI earrings, $10,500, and ring, $380.


Feature (tbd)


Feature (tbd)

ERDEM dress, similar styles available. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN boots, $1,095. BUCCELLATI earrings, $15,500. Opposite: GUCCI jacket, $4,400, and skirt, $2,700. COLETTE earrings, $1,800. Belt, stylist’s own. Engagement ring seen throughout, Dunst’s own.


People always warn not to work with friends—don’t mix business and pleasure. But Woodshock stands in direct opposition to that idea. In fact, it’s only because of the deep-rooted friendship between actor Kirsten Dunst and Rodarte’s sibling designers, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, who wrote and directed the film, that this intimate project ever came to fruition. (The initial conversation started over seven years ago.) It wasn’t until Dunst found a window between the second season of the FX TV series Fargo (she has since become engaged to one of the show’s co-stars, Jesse Plemons) and Sofia Coppola’s drama The Beguiled, that the timing was finally right for their small crew to decamp to the woods of Humboldt County, about 270 miles north of San Francisco, for an intensive five weeks of filming. At the center of the narrative is Theresa, portrayed by Dunst, who, as she grieves the loss of her mother, descends ever deeper into a psychedelic world of drugs, violence and paranoia. A hauntingly beautiful portrayal of the California landscape is at once the backdrop and a character in and of itself. While the experience offered many firsts for the Mulleavy sisters, it was also a significant first for Dunst: her first executive producer credit on a feature—some-

they were like, “We’ve been writing.” It was actually a short period film at the time, and we read it knowing that we wanted to make something together. It was something we talked about for years before we actually made it. Can you paint a background for this story? Kate Mulleavy: Laura and I grew up in Santa Cruz playing in the redwood forests. When we wrote this, we knew the trees would be a character in this film and that we had to film it in California. Humboldt County is where our parents fell in love; I felt destined to film there. Laura Mulleavy: I think we wanted to tell a story that could bring out the emotion we feel when we stand among the redwoods—something that is so much older and wiser…you feel incredibly small. And the connection that Kate and I have to our natural surroundings. Kirsten was the only actress in the world that could play Theresa. Theresa is Kirsten and Kirsten is Theresa, you cannot separate the two from each other. Theresa is a complex woman tortured by her past. How did you prepare for this role? KD: I had just finished Fargo when I read the final draft of the script. I knew it was going to be an emotional journey, so I

Feature (tbd)

“It’s...about trying to understand the unconscious mind and using dreams, books, discussions and songs to make this character as rich as possible.” thing that she hopes to do more. And, maybe in the not-too-distant future, she may take on another collaboration with her besties. Dunst popped into the Mulleavys’ Downtown L.A. studio to try on dresses for the Woodshock premiere when we caught up with the trio: Kirsten, what were your first impressions when you read the script? Kirsten Dunst: Well, this started a long time ago, back in 2010. Laura, Kate and I were in Italy (they were doing a show at Pitti Uomo). We were up one night and

C 98 OCTOBER 2017

went into my own way of working with the lady that I collaborate with. I hate to call her [an acting coach] because she’s so much more than that. It’s not like we run scenes or lines; it’s more about trying to understand the unconscious mind and using dreams, books, discussions and songs to make this character as rich as possible. It’s a little like creative therapy. What was it like working with such close friends? LM: Kate, Kirsten and I know each other so well and respect each other so much as artists. We all formed such a singular

voice in speaking with each other about who this person was, what this world was—all of that is in our heads and we really didn’t need to talk about it too much, just the way Kate and I have a nonverbal communication about what we love, why we love it and how it makes us feel. Kirsten kind of mixed right into that and suddenly there was a stream of communication that way. Kirsten, obviously you’ve worked with a lot of experienced directors. What was it like working with Kate and Laura on their first feature? KD: Well, I’ve known their work for so long as fashion designers, and every runway show feels like its own film. So, for me, they were making films already, and when it came to this film, we had prepared it together very intimately before we went out to shoot it. Once we were there, we were so emotionally in tune with each other. I was just impressed about how it felt like second nature to the both of them and I didn’t feel like I was working with some inexperienced director. I think that most directors’ first films are their best work. Where did the film’s name come from? KD: It’s kind of a colloquial term for someone getting lost in the woods. For us, it was a metaphor of Theresa getting lost deeper and deeper into her own mind. Going deeper and deeper into the woods must have been physically challenging as well… LM: We shot the period of levitation in the middle of the woods. We would lift and drop Kirsten from these different angles. I remember the bruises that she had just from that process. We had to cover them or think of if they were useful in this part of the film or not. Kirsten actually had to make a trip to the hospital at one point. It’s pretty surreal thinking about it now. I hope you aren’t afraid of heights! KD: Because of Spider-Man, I had to be hoisted up in all these different kinds of contraptions, so I was used to heights— that did help because I’ve done it before. But it was exhausting and cold. What happened during your downtime? KM: We really couldn’t get enough of each other. Break time was like, “Let’s go hang out.” Continued on p.126


PREEN dress, similar styles available. REPOSSI ring, price upon request. Makeup: DIOR Diorskin Forever Undercover Concealer in Light Beige, $34, Diorskin Forever Perfect Cushion foundation in Light Beige, $57, Diorblush Colour & Light duo stick in Plum Shimmer, $44, Rouge Dior Double Rouge lipstick in Vibrant Nude, $35, 5 Couleurs eyeshadow in Touch, $62, Diorshow Pro Liner in Black, $33. Diorshow Brow Styler in Universal Brown, $29. INIKA Mineral Mattifying Powder, $35. LASH STAR BEAUTY Flash of Brilliance highlighter, $29. JILLIAN DEMPSEY Lid Tint in Bronze, $28. KEVYN AUCOIN The Curling Mascara in Rich Pitch Black, $28. HAIR Laini Reeves at ASM using Paul Mitchell. MAKEUP Mary Wiles at The Wall Group using Dior. NAILS Tom Bachik using OPI. FASHION ASSISTANT Raina Silberstein. PRODUCTION 3 Star Productions.

SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.126.

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PHILIPPE VERGNE and SYLVIA CHIVARATANOND’s Mediterranean-style house was designed in 1926 by architect A.F. LEICHT. “It was absolutely not what I expected to live in,” says Vergne, whose home office is located at the top of the residence’s turret. Leicht designed around 20 homes in the Hollywood Hills and Los Feliz in the 20th century.


Creative Living Feature (tbd) An unexpected architectural find makes for an inspired family home for art consultant Sylvia Chivaratanond and MOCA’s Philippe Vergne PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAM FROST WRITTEN BY DEGEN PENER


The couple and their son, INDRA, in the living room. “The views are amazing,” says Chivaratanond. Below, from left: By the front door hangs a shot by French photographer FRANÇOIS HALARD of a work by artist DOUGLAS GORDON. Plants from THE TROPICS, a West Hollywood nursery, line the living room.

When Philippe Vergne, the director of the Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles (MOCA), and his wife, art consultant Sylvia Chivaratanond, decided to move out of their apartment in Hancock Park to buy their first house two years ago, they

Feature (tbd) dreamed of finding the perfect midcentury modern gem. “I wanted it to be more minimal than minimal,” says Vergne, “and have right angles everywhere.” What they found after a year of hunting was a house that had none of those attributes, but was so unique that they fell in love with it immediately. Built in 1926, it was designed by one of L.A.’s quirkier architects of the last century, A.F. Leicht. From the front, the 4,300-squarefoot residence, located in the Hollywood Hills above Chateau Marmont, appears to be wholly a classic Mediterranean with stucco walls, wrought-iron details and a turret. Inside, there’s barely a right angle anywhere in sight. Every room has either rounded corners or is circular in shape. “It fits like a snail. I’m French and I live in a snail,” says Vergne, standing in the foyer near a dramatic winding staircase that connects the four stories. During the golden age of Hollywood, Marlon Brando called the place home. “There’s a room downstairs that was a tiki room for him,” says Chivaratanond. “He’d play drums and have crazy parties here. And there’s this amazing video on


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In the foyer of a downstairs den, details include an EAMES chair, a sculpture by artist JOE ZORRILLA (on the table) and a Moroccan rug.


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The sunken living room, which retains the home’s original floor and fireplace, is furnished with a large DE SEDE Non-Stop sofa from the 1970s, a JOE COLOMBO floor lamp, a bookcase from NICKEY KEHOE, a CHRISTOPHER ALLEN coffee table, a SAARINEN FOR KNOLL side table, a LIGNE ROSET marble table, midcentury Scandinavian chairs from JF CHEN and Australian sheep throws purchased from a flea market. “We entertain quite a bit, ranging from 12 to 100 people,” says Vergne. “The beauty of the house for me is you have these spaces where you can really entertain, but it’s also full of nooks and crannies if I need to disappear and have my space.”


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In the den, paintings by artists DOMINIC MANGILA, DARĂ?O ESCOBAR and MONICA MAJOLI rest atop an original fireplace.


Indra playing outside the house. Below, from left: Furnishings in the dining room include a midcentury credenza, a HENRI MATISSE print, a drawing by Joe Zorrilla and African and Scandinavian bowls. Two alcoves contain small works by URS FISCHER, ELAINE STURTEVANT, FRANCIS ALŸS, NARI WARD, PIERO MANZONI, ROBERT OVERBY, DAAN VAN GOLDEN and SYLVIA AUVRAY.

YouTube with Edward R. Murrow interviewing him in the house.” In the clip, from 1955, there are images of a 30-yearold Brando showing off the Oscar he had won just days earlier for On the Waterfront, as well as a portrait of his late mother hanging above the limestone fireplace in the living room. After Brando sold it, the home was later purchased by interior designer Janet Polizzi, whose projects included the Los Angeles Country Club, and who lived in the house for 30 years before

Feature (tbd) selling it to Vergne and Chivaratanond. The couple decorated sparely, letting the eccentric bones of the structure stand out. “I have ‘stuff’ anxiety. The less the better for me,” says Vergne. “Sylvia always makes fun of me. She says that I’m French so I cannot multitask. Maybe it’s the same visually, and I cannot look at more than one thing at a time. I’d rather have one beautiful piece than a forest of stuff.” In the living room, that one showstopper piece is

an enormous, crescent-shaped De Sede Non-Stop sofa from the 1970s. “I looked for a long time for that piece, because it was kind of all you needed,” says Chivaratanond, who grew up in L.A. and graduated from University of California, Los Angeles. Ironically, this less-is-more approach extends to art. “We are not collectors in the sense of people who fill up their house with art,” says Vergne, who refrains from purchasing pieces that could create any appearance of conflicts of interest in his role as a museum head. Most of the works are gifts from artist friends. The couple, who have a 6-year-old son, Indra, met in Continued on p.126

OCTOBER 2017 107


With an appreciation for campy ’80s flicks and Southern California flair, multimedia artist

Feature (tbd) Alex Israel invites a fresh, surf-soaked cast to populate his new work, the film SPF-18

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RACHEL CHANDLER WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER


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Artist and filmmaker ALEX ISRAEL on the set of SPF-18.


In the film SPF-18, actor CARSON MEYER plays Penny, who is considering losing her virginity to her boyfriend, Johnny. Israel sought to cast actors who embodied a certain “Southern California precociousness and vulnerability,� he says.

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Clockwise from top left: SEAN RUSSEL HERMAN plays Steve, a lifeguard who is a mentor figure. NOAH CENTINEO stars as Johnny, SPF-18’s central protagonist, who is in a relationship with Penny. JACKSON WHITE is the musician Ash, who has just arrived from out of town to pursue life as professional musician. BIANCA SANTOS takes on the role of Penny’s cousin, Camilla, who is visiting for the summer.


SLUG Bits

shopping?” and “What did you have for breakfast?” The bizarre public interest in mundane facts about figures who are familiar yet completely disconnected from us is unmasked. His “Flats” series was fabricated at Warner Bros. Studios, each backdrop-like piece seeped in that purplish-pinkish sunset color that only seems to exist between La Cienega and Highland at 6 p.m. These stucco panels, some emblazoned with palm trees and giant cutouts of his own head, provide rich contrast, whether on the gallery walls of The Huntington next to an Anthony van Dyke painting or in a wealthy collector’s deliberately adorned home. His collaboration with the quintessential icon of L.A.’s dissolute youth, Bret Easton Ellis, bred work on stock photographs covered with Ellis’ wry phrases, such as “I’m going to be a very different kind of star,” and “Can 50 million people be wrong? Probably.” I reconnected with the soft-spoken, earnest and extremely thoughtful Israel just after he had returned from launching his show “Summer 2” in Paris at the Almine

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Rech Gallery. His latest endeavor had been a few years coming, and the film SPF-18 was slated to premiere in September. SPF-18 is a luminous, colorful romp about four teenagers house-sitting for Keanu Reeves in Malibu over the summer, trying to do the things teens do: discover their identities, express their creativity, experiment sexually and navigate social politics. The story is told straight and references John Hughes movies, ’60s surf flicks, after-school specials and Baywatch. “Kids are fed so much irony in entertainment; I wanted to do something that was more like the teenage entertainment I remembered growing up—Baywatch is the perfect reference point,” he says, perking up. “There’s no irony in Baywatch!” In particular, the virginity issue really resonated with kids’ focus groups. “We think that kids are so cool and jaded and media savvy and overexposed to everything through the internet, but they’re still these fragile and emotional beings that are trying to figure out who they are,” Israel notes. Continued on p.126

CREDITS

One of my favorite encounters with Alex Israel transpired at Art Basel Miami Beach a few years ago, when we spent an entire evening poring over Taylor Swift music videos. “Look at this one!” he exclaimed, the tenor of his voice taut with excitement, pulling up one video after another. Israel was mesmerized by Swift’s craft, her slick image, the way she draws people into her everygirl fantasy tableau. You could almost see his acute mind turning and marveling, absorbing how this master of pop culture spins her web. That supple analysis of the now and the sticky, the current that absorbs young people, together with his Southern California upbringing and intimate knowledge of the petri dish that breeds the youth of Los Angeles, has informed the 35-year-old artist’s conceptual work from the very beginning, and drives his new debut feature film, SPF-18. In the early years, his video series “As It Lays” poked at the stilted aspects of fame as he interviewed various celebrities, asking them questions such as “What are your thoughts on online

C 24 MONTH 2016


Centineo’s character, Johnny, surfs to honor his dead father’s legacy. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Meyer and Santos. The teens on the beach, getting ready to surf. MOLLY RINGWALD portrays a “difficult” mother who is also a soap opera star. Meyer and White.

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GUCCI vest, $14,000, pants, $1,350, and hat, $1,440.

Celluloid Hero Feature (tbd)

Photographer and visual artist Tasya van Ree is no stranger to pushing boundaries. Here, she flips the lens to capture her own unique style PHOTOGRAPHY BY TASYA VAN REE STYLING BY ALISON EDMOND WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON


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TOM FORD top, $7,990, and pants, $2,490. DAVID WEBB ring, $6,800. Vintage hat, talent’s own. Opposite: PROENZA SCHOULER dress, $2,650. GLADYS TAMEZ hat, $925. KONSTANTINO ring, $770. BELSTAFF shoes, $550.


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ALBERTA FERRETTI dress, price upon request. M/F PEOPLE T-shirt, $48. KONSTANTINO ring, $5,500. Opposite: ROBERTO CAVALLI jacket, $16,200, and pants, $1,380. VINCE tank, $65.


Tasya van Ree often relies on dreams, memories from her past lives and subconscious connections to inspire her work as a photographer and illustrator. Not surprisingly, the art is just as intriguing as its maker. Beyond her stunning portraits, she’s known for her androgynous western style—think distressed denim, tattoos (some from relationships past), Wednesday Addams-style braids and, usually, a wide-brimmed hat. Van Ree, who is half Japanese and half Dutch, was born in Hawaii and came to California in 1994 to attend Santa Clara University on a volleyball scholarship. Two years later, she dropped out of college and taught herself how to use a camera. Ever since, she has been part of a community of strong, creative women— prompting her to launch the Instagram account @WomenWithSuperpowers last year with friend and wellness expert Nitsa Citrine. The project honors their close-knit circle—more specifically, “the feminine as artist, healer, activist, entrepreneur, philanthropist, etc.”—and is now evolving into a website with more expansive visual narratives and an online store that exemplify the group’s lifestyle. (The site’s first product offering, Yin Power, is a dietary “tonic herbal formula for the feminine” made in collaboration with Sun Potion, an organic “transformational food” brand for which Citrine serves as creative director.) The pair hopes to inspire change on a large scale. “Our vision is that through recognizing the multidimensional and extraordinary qualities within us, we can begin to embody our own influence and create shifts to benefit the whole planet.” Meanwhile, in her own backyard, van Ree is collaborating with the nonprofit organization The Foundation for Living Beauty for a fundraising event on October 15 at Eric Buterbaugh Gallery, showcasing a new photo series of female cancer survivors and their scars. womenwithsuperpowers.com. •

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LOUIS VUITTON dress and necklace, prices upon request.


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CHANEL jacket, $4,850, and pants, $5,800. GLADYS TAMEZ hat, $925. PROENZA SCHOULER shoes, $945. HEATHER GARDNER necklace, $110. Tank, stylist’s own.


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CÉLINE top, $3,400, and pants, $1,600. GLADYS TAMEZ hat, $385. Opposite: VALENTINO dress, $9,900. VALENTINO GARAVANI necklace, $1,025, and boots, $2,475. GLADYS TAMEZ hat, $620. Makeup: CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ Energizing Essence, $135, Concealer SPF 25, $70, Bronzing Powder Duo in Bronze, $95, Cream Eye Color Solo in 307, $45, UV Protective Lip Treatment SPF 30, $65, Eyebrow Pencil Cartridge in 204 Grey, $25, and Perfect Lash Mascara in 1 Black, $50. HAIR AND MAKEUP Jenna Anton at Forward Artists using Clé de Peau Beauté. FASHION ASSISTANT Fernando Pichardo. PHOTO ASSISTANT Carl Duquette.


SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.126.

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FINDING NEW GROUND CONTINUED FROM P.99

We ate our meals together. We would be stressed out, but we would be stressed out together. We always had fun. We rented a house in Eureka, and Kirsten came over all the time. The film isn’t necessarily about fashion, but there do seem to be a few special pieces. What was your approach to wardrobe? KM: We had specific looks in mind beforehand. We wanted her to feel timeless, like she wasn’t from a specific era. We wanted it to be more dreamlike for the viewer. We worked with Christie Wittenborn and created seven versions of a slip dress: watery, aged, white, in the woods, levitation, running and clean. There were also three versions of a black dress. The intention behind that was to have a sudden psychological difference between each. Kirsten, what did you think when you saw the final cut? KD: I’m not going to lie. The first time I saw it the girls were on either side of me, so there was a lot of hand squeezing, and it hurt. There was a lot of laughing. It was like watching a documentary. I was so proud of them, but at the same time it was hard for me to enjoy it as an audience member because [I was] too involved. What’s on the horizon? More films? KD: We’re making another movie together, for sure. LM: Of course! It’s already being talked about now. It’s an addictive process, and now you feel this internal need to tell another narrative. And, we’re also excited to be designing Kirsten’s wedding dress… •

CREATIVE LIVING CONTINUED FROM P.107

the late 1990s when Vergne was a curator and Chivaratanond was a curatorial fellow at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis. Chivaratanond soon moved to Chicago to work as a curator at the city’s Museum of Contemporary Art. The pair married in 2002 in Topanga Canyon at the Inn of the Seventh Ray. “We got married and then went back to our respective cities. We’ve been together 18 years, and 10 of those were commuting,” she says. Six years later, when he became director of the Dia Art Foundation in New York, she was able to relocate. Since settling in L.A., Chivaratanond has been active philanthropically, joining the board of My Friend’s Place, a homeless youth center in Hollywood, whose 30th-anniversary gala she’ll

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co-chair next year. She’s also curating a series of talks this fall called The Justice Series at The Underground Museum, a nonprofit arts space in Arlington Heights, which has a partnership with MOCA. The first presentation, featuring South L.A.-based urban gardener Ron Finley, will be about food justice. In just three short years at the helm of MOCA, Vergne has accomplished a remarkable turnaround. The museum, which was in disarray after the departure of former director Jeffrey Deitch and had no shows on the calendar when Vergne arrived, has since increased its endowment by $27.2 million, brought up attendance by 22 percent and mounted highly acclaimed shows by Doug Aitken, Kerry James Marshall and Matthew Barney. “I think we have recaptured people’s trust, and that for me may be the most important thing,” says Vergne. This fall will bring a show of young Argentinian artist Adrián Villar Rojas, who, in Vergne’s words, will “basically turn the Geffen inside-out and into a landscape sculpture,” as part of the Getty Foundation’s Pacific Standard Time: LA/LA initiative on Los Angeles and Latin American and Latino art, “I love the diversity of artists’ voices in Los Angeles...And I really like the horizontality of the city— its density of social, cultural, political and ethnic fabric,” he says, adding, “It takes a different kind of eye to get.” •

Runover

THE SUN KING CONTINUED FROM P.113

Technically, Israel had to learn the process of making a film on the fly. “It was all a mystery to me in the beginning, but ultimately I knew how it should feel and what it would look like,” he says. With that vision, Israel was able to bring together a well-connected team of 40. The writer behind Baywatch, series co-creator Michael Berk, penned the script. China Chow helped secure many of the actors and Duran Duran’s 1982 hit “Hungry Like the Wolf” for the soundtrack. Bettina Korek was brought on as executive producer, and Alex Waite and Kirsten “Kiwi” Smith (the latter of whom co-wrote 10 Things I Hate About You and Legally Blonde) were tapped as producers. Then came Mona May (the costume designer of Clueless), who made all the costumes, and musician Emile Haynie (who has worked with Kanye West and Eminem), who produced the score. Actors Keanu Reeves and Molly Ringwald added teen flick gravitas to the story. And Pamela Anderson…let’s just

say she’s Pamela Anderson. What more can you ask for? The foray into film as a medium was a deliberate choice for a variety of reasons. Israel has always been interested in pop culture, but the message via film goes beyond cerebral play with concepts: He wants to democratize art for teenagers. “Art has an expansion issue,” he says. “A lot of kids think it means you have to draw well, and one of the things I want to communicate is that making art can be a lot of things, and ultimately kids get to decide what art looks like in the future.” He knows that when his artwork is exhibited in a gallery, it isn’t attracting a younger audience—and some of his strongest memories are of being a teenager and being exposed to museums by his parents and a fabulous high school art teacher at Studio City’s Harvard-Westlake. This project is his attempt to bring kids into the ambience of his work. “It’s meant to enfranchise young people in art and make them feel like they’re a part of it.” As the film launches on iTunes on September 29, followed by its Netflix debut on October 29 as well as screenings at a number of high schools (as a nod to the way surf films used to be disseminated), he’ll have his wish very soon. “The key message is that being creative is a good way to help you find your voice,” he says. spf18.com. •

SHOPPING GUIDE COVER Preen dress, similar styles available; preenbythorntonbregazzi.com. Repossi Serti Sur Vide Module ring in pink gold fully set with diamonds, price upon request; repossi.com. ART ATTACK p.52 Gucci Dragon satin pumps, $1,590, Gucci, C.M., 714-557-9600. Dior Woman’s Milky Way Mitzah scarf, $200, can be ordered at Dior, B.H., 310-859-4700. Louis Vuitton Pochette Métis Flowers bag, price upon request, Louis Vuitton, B.H., 310859-0457; louisvuitton.com. CH Carolina Herrera Squared silk scarf with a vibrant print inspired by traditional East Asian paper fans, $310, Carolina Herrera, B.H., 310-276-8900. Loewe Tote Toast bag in canvas and leather, $1,790, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H., 310-275-4211; loewe.com. Alexander McQueen Needlepoint Tapestry boots, $1,890; alexandermcqueen.com. Moschino PVC Editorial Print Bucket Bag, $1,150, Moschino Boutique, L.A., 818-8275700. Charlotte Olympia Ilona printed wool


mules, $725; charlotteolympia.com. Dolce & Gabbana Lucia bag with embellishments, $3,775, Dolce & Gabbana, B.H., 310-8888701. 3.1 Phillip Lim Drum boots, $750, 3.1 Phillip Lim, L.A., 213-246-2588; 31philliplim.com. Burberry The Medium Banner bag, $1,995; burberry.com. Ports 1961 hand-painted calico Bee sneakers, price upon request; farfetch.com. Fendi FF Kan I velvet bag, $7,150; fendi.com. CHAIN REACTION p.54 Buccellati Hawaii Bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold set with onyx, $4,700, Buccellati, B.H., 310-276-7022. Bulgari Divas’ Dream necklace in 18-karat white gold with diamonds and lapis lazuli, $123,000, Bulgari, B.H., 310-8589216. David Yurman Wellesley Link Chain Drop earrings with diamonds, $1,250, David Yurman, B.H., 310-8888618; davidyurman.com. Cartier High Jewelry 18-karat rose-gold necklace with diamonds, price upon request, available by appointment only at Cartier, B.H., 310-2754272. EF Collection diamond chain-link earrings, $2,795; efcollection.com. Roberto Coin Chic and Shine bracelet, $3,000; robertocoin.com. Van Cleef & Arpels Olympia necklace featuring diamonds set in 18-karat white gold, price upon request, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-2761161. Forevermark by Jade Trau 18-karat yellow-gold ID bracelet; forevermark.com. Tamara Comolli Drop rose-gold necklace, $9,930, Neiman Marcus, S.D., 619-6929100. Tiffany & Co. Tiffany HardWear link bracelet in 18-karat rose gold with pavé diamonds, $12,000, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310-273-8880. Marco Bicego handengraved ring in 18-karat yellow gold, $2,990, Shreve & Co., S.F., 415-421-2600. Harry Winston diamond links earrings set in platinum, price upon request, Harry Winston, B.H., 310-271-8554.

charcoal, white, pink and pale yellow lace dress, similar styles available, Mona Moore, Venice, 310-452-4070. Buccellati whiteand yellow-gold flower earrings, $10,500, and silver, gold and diamond blossom ring, $380, Buccellati, B.H., 310-276-7022. p.96 Gucci black hibiscus red begonia flower chiné single-breasted jacket with plissé flounce details on the sleeves, $4,400, and black-beige dot iris patchwork printed sablé long tiered skirt with light blue contrast ribbon details, $2,700, Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451; gucci.com. Colette 18-karat black-gold rose studs with black diamonds, $1,800, Colette, W.H., 323-944-0599. p.97 Erdem sleeveless V-neck ankle-length dress with handkerchief hem, similar styles available; erdem.com. Christian Louboutin Moulamax nude velvet floral-print ankle boot, $1,095, Christian Louboutin, W.H., 310-247-9300. Buccellati white, yellow gold and diamond flower drop earrings, $15,500, Buccellati, B.H., 310-276-7022. p.99 Preen dress, similar styles available; preenbythorntonbregazzi.com. Repossi Serti sur Vide module ring in pink gold with a diamond, price upon request; repossi.com. Makeup: Dior Diorskin Forever Undercover Concealer in Light Beige, $34, Diorskin Forever Perfect Cushion foundation in Light Beige, $57, Diorblush Colour & Light duo stick in Plum Shimmer, $44, Rouge Dior Double Rouge lipstick in Vibrant Nude, $35, 5 Couleurs eyeshadow in Touch, $62, Diorshow Pro Liner in Black, $33. Diorshow Brow Styler in Universal Brown, $29, dior.com. Inika Mineral Mattifying Powder, $35, inikaorganic.com. Lash Star Flash of Brilliance highlighter, $29, lashstarbeauty.com. Jillian Dempsey Lid Tint in Bronze, $28, jilliandempsey .com. Kevyn Aucion The Curling Mascara in Rich Pitch Black, $28, net-a-porter.com.

310-270-9440; tomford.com. David Webb bloodshed and polished 18-karat gold ring, $6,800, David Webb, B.H., 310-858-8006. p.117 Proenza Schouler off-white satin sablé long-sleeve spiral dress, $2,650, Barneys, B.H., 310-276-4400; proenzaschouler.com. Gladys Tamez Hydon hat, $925; gladystamez.com. Konstantino Ismene collection sterling silver and 18-karat gold five-column ring, $770, Mulloy’s Fine Jewelry, Carlsbad, 877-685-5697. Belstaff Angrave shoes, $550; belstaff.com. p.118 Roberto Cavalli cropped fur jacket with round neckline and cropped hem, $16,200, and wide-leg pant, $1,380, Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006; robertocavalli.com. Vince high-neck tank, $65, Vince, L.A., 323-602-0550; vince.com. p.119 Alberta Ferretti strapless feathered gown, price upon request, Barney’s, B.H., 310-2764400. M/F People refined crop tee in white, $48; mfpeople.com. Konstantino 18-karat gold tapered lattice band, flamenco gold collection, $5,500, Mulloy’s Fine Jewelry, Carlsbad, 877-685-5697. p.121 Louis Vuitton embroidered sleeveless dress and handy necklace, prices upon request, Louis Vuitton, B.H., 310-786-9942; louisvuitton .com. p.122 Chanel wool cloth and cashmere coat, $4,850, and stretch lambskin pants, $5,800, Chanel, B.H., 310-278-5500. Gladys Tamez Hydon hat, $925; gladystamez .com. Proenza Schouler black calfskin hex striped pointy-toe loafer, $945, Barneys, B.H., 310-276-4400; proenzaschouler.com. Heather Gardner petite spike necklace with spike on sterling silver chain, $110; heathergardner.com. p.124 Céline draped top in black sheer crepe jersey, $3,400, and trousers in black techno suiting, $1,600, Céline, B.H., 310-888-0120; celine.com. Gladys Tamez Charlie hat, $385; gladystamez.com. p.125 Valentino dress, $9,900, Valentino, S.F., 415-7729835. Valentino Garavani boots, $2,475, and necklace, $1,025, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103. Gladys Tamez Bianca hat, $620; gladystamez.com. Makeup: Clé de Peau Beauté Energizing Essence, $135, Concealer SPF 25, $70, Bronzing Powder Duo in Bronze, $95, Cream Eye Color Solo in 307, $45, UV Protective Lip Treatment SPF 30, $65, Eyebrow Pencil Cartridge in 204 Grey, $25, and Perfect Lash Mascara in 1 Black, $50, cledepeaubeaute.com.

Shopping Guide

FINDING NEW GROUND p.90 Gucci almond flower Velvet Rose printed mohair collar lapel jacket with embroidered insect appliqué on the inside, $4,100, and black multicolor impressionist garden printed mohair cuffed ankle pants, $1,500, Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451; gucci .com. Buccellati silver, gold and diamond blossom ring, $380, Buccellati, B.H., 310276-7022. p.92 Balenciaga green floral polyester pleated dress, $4,350, Balenciaga; saksfifthavenue.com. p.93 Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello satin slip dress with lace detail, $6,990, and leather rose choker, $895, Saint Laurent, B.H., 310-2715051; ysl.com. Colette 18-karat black-gold rose studs with black diamonds, $1,800, Colette, W.H., 323-944-0599. p.94 Rodarte

CELLULOID HERO p.89 Vera Wang Collection black silk georgette long-sleeve draped gown with military corded cuffs, $1,850, Vera Wang, B.H., 323-602-0174. Janessa Leoné black virgin wool Eugenie hat, $197, The Edit by Freda Salvador and Janessa Leoné, L.A., 310-256-2296. Sophie Monet ebony tulip ring set with ebony wood surrounded by a silver- or gold-plated ring, $88; sophiemonetjewelry.com. p.114 Gucci black multicolor vintage-treated calf leather belted vest with all-over metal stud and animal decorations, $14,000, and white magnolia black wool cover natural stretch pleated pants, $1,350, and black felt hat, $1,440, Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451; gucci .com. p.116 Tom Ford sequin embroidered mock-neck top, $7,990, and stretch leather leggings with zip, $2,490, Tom Ford, B.H.,

PHOTO FINISH Dior denim jumpsuit, $2,800, beret, $780, and Obsesse-D sling-back shoes, $780, Dior, B.H., 310-859-4700. Tiffany & Co. HardWear graduated link earrings in 18-karat gold, $5,000, and Tiffany T Two ring in 18-karat gold, $1,600, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310-273-8880; tiffany.com.

C Magazine October 2017 is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 460248, Escondido, CA 92046. Subscriptions Telephone 800-775-3066 or E-mail cmagcustomerservice@pcspublink.com. Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., add $15 postage. Single copies available at newsstands and other magazine outlets throughout the United States.


When in the

CALIFORNIA DESERT 1.

IN THE SUN-DRENCHED WILDS OF THE GOLDEN STATE, EYECATCHING SHADES HEAT UP THE LANDSCAPE EDITED BY ANUSH BENLIYAN AND REBECCA RUSSELL

1. DIOR Stellaire 1 sunglasses, $440, Dior, B.H. 2. PRADA bag, $2,400, Prada, B.H. 3. ROBERTO CAVALLI necklace, $1,355, robertocavalli.com. 4. BALENCIAGA single clip earring, similar styles available, Balenciaga, B.H. 5. VINCE Copley sneakers, $250, vince.com. 6. EMILIO PUCCI Fall/Winter 2017. 7. SIES MARJAN Fall/ Winter 2017. 8. MYSTIC JOURNEY BOOKSTORE Smoky Quartz cluster, $525, mysticjourneybookstore.com. 9. MIU MIU boots, $1,490, Miu Miu, B.H. 10. VALENTINO GARAVANI foulard, $475, valentino.com. 11. NARS DualIntensity eyeshadow in Hydra, $29, narscosmetics.com. 12. MARY KATRANTZOU Fall/ Winter 2017. 13. HERMÈS Fall/ Winter 2017. 14. BKR Spiked Molly water bottle, $40, mybkr.com. 15. LONGCHAMP Le Pliage Cuir Étoiles, $630, Longchamp, C.M. 16. LA PERLA silk slipdress, $1,890, laperla.com. 17. GUCCI grosgrain headband, similar styles available, Gucci, B.H. 18. CHRISTOPHER KANE earrings, $195, christopherkane.com.

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“SALVATION MOUNTAIN” BY BDEARTH © 2009 (FLICKR.COM/ PHOTOS/BDEARTH/8316822024), LICENSED UNDER CC BY 2.0 (CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/BY/2.0), REFRAMED FROM ORIGINAL. ESMAN: CHUCK LANG.

SALVATION MOUNTAIN in Niland, California.

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“One of the things I love most about living in California is driving through the diverse state and admiring how mindblowing the earth is,” says fashion and beauty vlogger Sonya Esman. The Russian-born multiplatform influencer—who has garnered 2 million followers on Instagram and more than 370,000 subscribers on YouTube—recently moved back to Los Angeles after a stint in New York City. Upon returning, the 22-year-old model and voice behind the lifestyle blog Class Is Internal took a road trip through the California desert. Here, she shares her favorite moments. • Salvation Mountain is just magical. Everyone should see this monument in their lifetime, even if it’s just for aesthetic purposes. It was built by one man who had a lot of passion in his heart. salvationmountain.us. • Death Valley is about five hours north of L.A. On the way, you’ll encounter insane sand dunes that go on for miles. • Adelanto in the Mojave Desert is a city of dust devils. I highly recommend driving by if you are an adrenaline junky. • Joshua Tree is another California must. The locals are so kindhearted; you may never want to leave. • I rented a Sioux-style tepee amid granite boulders in Pioneertown through Airbnb. You feel like you’re on another planet. airbnb.com. OCTOBER 2017 C 129


PHOTO finish DIOR jumpsuit, $2,800, beret, $780, and shoes, $780. TIFFANY & CO. earrings, $5,000/pair, and ring, $1,600.

JESSE JO STARK “If Stevie Nicks and Lux Interior from The Cramps had a baby, then I would be that child,” singer-songwriter Jesse Jo Stark says of her ’70s-inspired sound. “My childhood was the Spice Girls and Britney Spears, but on the way to school, my dad would play Merle Haggard and Willie Nelson and The Clash. I loved it, but I didn’t want to admit it, because my dad was playing it, you know?” The 26-year-old Southern California native—and daughter of Laurie Lynn and Richard Stark, the founders of the fashion brand Chrome Hearts—has since embraced her eclectic taste, which will be featured on an EP planned for release in 2018. “I write better when it’s really loud,” Stark says of her creative process. “I’m always taking notes when I’m in the car or if I’m out at a bar.” The soft-spoken songstress— who opened for Guns N’ Roses this summer—credits her upbringing for her work ethic. “I was around a lot of adults when I was a kid,” says Stark, whose godmother is Cher. “I was always the little one, but they treated me like I was an adult. They never just patted me on the back. It was like, ‘You can be better.’” Following her 2014 debut EP, Down Your Drain, produced by Sex Pistols guitarist Steve Jones, Stark’s goal is to release a new single (her latest is “Deadly Doll”) each month for the remainder of 2017. “My dream is to make beautiful songs that people dig,” she says. “I dream big, but I think small.” • LINDZI SCHARF

C 130 OCTOBER 2017

Photo Finish

PHOTOGRAPHY BY J.R. MANKOFF

STYLING: REBECCA RUSSELL. HAIR: PETER LAMDEN FOR SOLO ARTISTS. MAKEUP: JO STRETTELL AT TRACEYMATTINGLY.COM. NAILS: TRACY CLEMENS AT OPUS BEAUTY USING JIN SOON. FASHION ASSISTANT: FERNANDO PICHARDO. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.126.

Musician


Holidays at The Del A WINTE R OF W H I M SY, WISHES A N D WON D ER

Hotel del Coronado

HOTELDEL.COM • BEACHVILLAGEATTHEDEL.COM 800-HOTELDEL


Tiffany & Co


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