C California Style

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Cover

ART + DESIGN SPECIAL

THINGS BEAUTY of

FRANK GEHRY’S NEXT MOVE

GO, CHRISTY TURLINGTON BURNS!

AI WEIWEI’S LOS ANGELES TAKEOVER

Gucci

Gucci

Prada

Prada

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Cartier

Cartier

Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent

Bulgari

Bulgari

Michael Kors

Michael Kors

MaxMara

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Van Cleef & Arpels

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ICONIC STYLE Alexander McQueen · Aquazzura · Bottega Veneta · Brunello Cucinelli · Cartier · Céline · Chanel · Chloé Dior · Dior Men · Dolce&Gabbana · Fendi · Gianvito Rossi · Givenchy · Gucci · Hermès · John Hardy Louis Vuitton · Marni · Max Mara · Moncler · Prada · Ralph Lauren · Roberto Cavalli · Roger Vivier · Saint Laurent Salvatore Ferragamo · Stella McCartney · The Webster · Tiffany & Co. · Tod’s · Valentino · Versace partial listing

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@SouthCoastPlaza #SCPStyle Photographed at The Getty Center

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84

TOC 1

84 BLOCK PARTY Los Angeles’ fashion stock rises to new heights with the opening of avant-garde retail incubator Dover Street Market.

92 FRANK GEHRY HAS THE ANSWER On a visit to his Playa Vista headquarters, America’s most famous architect reveals the plans for his boldest project yet: L.A.

110 98 92

98 MATERNAL SUNSHINE After 30 years as one of fashion’s most in-demand models, Christy Turlington Burns could still be dominating the catwalks and campaigns. Instead, it’s this mother of two’s ambition to make childbirth safer that keeps her in the spotlight.

110 COOL AND THE GANG Gen Z photographer Bella Newman snaps her creative contemporaries in Gucci’s Chateau Marmont-inspired resort collection at the hallowed hotel.

C 24 OCTOBER 2018

On Our Cover CHRISTY TURLINGTON BURNS wearing a BALENCIAGA sweater and scarf, and JENNIFER MEYER jewelry. Photography by PAMELA HANSON. Creative and fashion direction by ALISON EDMOND. Hair by MIKI at Marie Robinson Salon. Makeup by FULVIA FAROLFI for Chanel. Produced on location by JENNY LANDEY PRODUCTIONS + LOCATIONS.

“BLOCK PARTY” (P.84): RAINER HOSCH. “COOL AND THE GANG” (P.110): BELLA NEWMAN. “FRANK GEHRY HAS THE ANSWER” (P.92): SAM FROST. “MATERNAL SUNSHINE” (P.98): PAMELA HANSON. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.118.

OCTOBER 2018

Jimmy Choo

CONTENTS

63

30 FOUNDER’S LETTER Matters of the art.

Who’s who behind the scenes of C.

36 #CMYCALIFORNIA Curator Eungie Joo’s creative destinations.

74

39 C WHAT’S HOT Artist Ai Weiwei’s rule-breaking new shows. Checking into a refurbished Hollywood landmark. Fashion whiz Matthias Vriens-McGrath turns his eye to design. Plus, Sherri McMullen’s must-haves for fall.

36

54

49 C FASHION The ladies (and legacies) behind San Francisco’s Kamperett. Jonathan Simkhai moves west. Make a splash in aquatic-inspired bling.

57 C BEAUTY Fall’s big beauty moment. Fighting pollution, one product at a time.

Architectural (and actually effective) creams, balms and tools.

TOC 2

66 60

63 C DESIGN

39

The next chapter in the Etc.etera narrative. Portia de Rossi embarks on high-tech art. An insider tour of the Dawnridge estate.

71 C CULTURE Jeffrey Deitch is poised to shake up Los Angeles’ culturescape once again.

77 C MENU Milla Chocolates sweetens the scene in Culver City. Design-forward dining destinations up and down the coast.

46

81 C TRAVEL The hottest island destinations around the globe.

119 SHOPPING GUIDE 120 WHEN IN

81

Artist Karon Davis’ beloved Mid-City L.A.

122 PHOTO FINISH Voice of the future: Rozzi Crane.

52 C 26 OCTOBER 2018

77

PLYWOOD SCULPTURE (P.74): PHOTOGRAPH BY GRANT TAYLOR (C) 2018 EAMES OFFICE LLC. LOFT LIVING ROOM (P.63): LAURE JOLIET. BAROO DISH (P.36): JAKOB N. LAYMAN. MERMAID BANGLE (P.54): COURTESY OF BIBI VAN DER VELDEN. LIP BALM (P.60): COURTESY OF PAT M C GRATH LABS. CHAIR (P.66): COURTESY OF MINOTTI. RUNWAY (P.52): COURTESY OF KENZO. AI WEIWEI SCULPTURE (P.39): COURTESY OF AI WEIWEI STUDIO AND MARCIANO ART FOUNDATION. SHOE (P.46): COURTESY OF JACQUEMUS. MILLA CHOCOLATES (P.77): ALI GOKAY SARIOZ. FOUR SEASONS SEYCHELLES AT DESROCHES ISLAND (P.81): KEN SEET/FOUR SEASONS.

34 C PEOPLE

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Jennifer Smith Hale Founder, Editorial Director & CEO Jenny Murray Editor & President Chief Brand & Content Officer Andrew Barker | Chief Creative Officer James Timmins Executive Creative & Fashion Director Alison Edmond Lesley McKenzie Deputy Editor Beauty Director Kelly Atterton

Arts & Culture Editor Elizabeth Khuri Chandler

Senior Designer Gabrielle Mirkin

Fashion Market Editor Rebecca Russell

Associate Editor Anush Benliyan

Photo Editor Maya Harris

Assistant Fashion Editor Margrit Jacobsen

Editorial Assistant Ericka Franklin

Graphic Designer Niki Sylvia

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Contributing Senior Editors Melissa Goldstein, Kelsey McKinnon San Francisco Editor-at-Large Diane Dorrans Saeks | Contributing Editor-at-Large Kendall Conrad Copy Editors Lily Maximo Villanueva, Nancy Wong Bryan | Special Projects Contributor Stephanie Steinman Contributing Editors Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith, Andrea Stanford, Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson Contributing Writers Catherine Bigelow, Caroline Cagney, Kerstin Czarra, Heather John Fogarty, Marshall Heyman, Christine Lennon, Martha McCully, Degen Pener, Jessica Ritz, Lindzi Scharf, Khanh T.L. Tran, Elizabeth Varnell, S. Irene Virbila Contributing Photographers Christian Anwander, David Cameron, Mark Griffin Champion, Victor Demarchelier, Amanda Demme, Michelangelo di Battista, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Beau Grealy, Zoey Grossman, Pamela Hanson, Kurt Iswarienko, Mona Kuhn, Kurt Markus, Carter Smith, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jan Welters Interns Amanda Goldstein, Kendall Meleski, Rae Smooke

Renee Marcello Publisher Executive Director Southern California Crista Vaghi

Executive Director Fashion Debbie Flynn

Integrated Marketing Director Jillian DeMarche

Executive Director Northern California Autumn O’Keefe

Executive Director Jewelry & Watch Avery Travis

Sales & Marketing Associate Madison Dahlke

Executive Director Beauty & Lifestyle Office Assistant Heidi Kurlander-Kail Wendi Coto Information Technology Director Sandy Hubbard Finance Associate Troy Felker | Finance Assistant Lee Sultan Andy Nelson Chief Financial Officer & Chief Operating Officer C PUBLISHING 1543 SEVENTH STREET, SECOND FLOOR, SANTA MONICA, CA 90401 T: 310-393-3800 SUBSCRIBE@MAGAZINEC.COM MAGAZINEC.COM C-STATEOFMIND.COM

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FOUNDER’S LETTER

What makes a piece of art transcend to a timeless creation? In my opinion, it takes a thing of beauty that encapsulates our current culture and provides a snapshot for many generations to come. Only a true master can achieve such a feat—and we have examples in spades within our Art + Design issue this month!

Frank Gehry is one of the most important architects in the world, and to sit down with him and discuss all things Los Angeles was an honor, to say the least. Spending a day in his studio, surrounded by his projects, was a thrill our team will not soon forget. Gehry’s vision for the City of Angels is exciting and vast, and his influence has already laid the groundwork for the momentous achievements that surely lie ahead.

World-renowned artist Ai Weiwei is gracing our state with three different exhibitions this fall. The fact that a talent of his caliber is focused on presenting his political, provocative work in our own backyard is testament to the power of California’s cultural landscape. Among those collaborating with Ai is gallerist (and Deitch Projects founder and former Museum of Contemporary Art leader) Jeffrey Deitch, whose return

Founder’s Letter

to Los Angeles is sure to reenergize the city. Visiting his new namesake space on the eve of its unveiling, we look forward to witnessing the evolution of his vision.

Speaking of what we are excited about this month, the opening of London cult favorite Dover Street Market makes the cut. No airplane tickets are needed to experience the shop’s curated cool—just a drive to Downtown Los Angeles. Also on the not-to-miss list: every single piece of Gucci’s Chateau Marmont collection. (C’s launch party 13 years ago was in the hotel’s penthouse, which helps me justify a splurge for nostalgic reasons alone.) We all know the lure and lore of this fabled property and celebrating its influence seems apropos. Check out “it” girl/photographer Bella Newman’s take on her fashionable friends donning

creative director Alessandro Michele’s inspired pieces while lounging around the Chateau.

And while we are on the topic of legends, I don’t think they come more beautiful (inside and out) than supermodel Christy Turlington Burns. Her career, lasting more than three decades, is proof that nice (and smart!) girls can finish first. Never one to rest on her laurels, she has turned her platform into a movement with her charity, Every Mother Counts, and is using the upcoming month for a big California push: running in the Golden Gate Half Marathon while raising funds for her nonprofit along the way, and releasing a documentary focusing on childbirth in our state.

This issue is full of beauty (in all its forms) and celebrates impressive names from the realms of visual arts, fashion and design. Taken cover to cover, it makes the case that life lived West is a source of endless inspiration.

JENNIFER SMITH HALE

We’d love to hear from you. Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.

C 30 OCTOBER 2018

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C PEOPLE

Who’s who behind the scenes of this issue, plus their favorite California places

BY ER I C KA FRAN K L I N

Rainer Hosch “To work with this group of creative people who define a moment in time of design and art in L.A. was amazing,” says Austria native Rainer Hosch, who turned his lens on six designers for “Block Party,” p.84. The Topanga-based father counts Chopard and Sony Music as clients and has shot the likes of Roger Federer and Jennifer Lopez. C SPOTS • Topanga Beach, which only surfers seem to know about • 25 Degrees at The Hollywood Roosevelt for their Number 3 burger • Santa Barbara Zoo for feeding giraffes

Pamela Hanson “I started shooting Christy [Turlington Burns] in the early ’90s,” says New York-based photographer Pamela Hanson, who captured the supermodel and cover star for “Maternal Sunshine,” p.98. “Not only is she epically beautiful, but she’s smart, funny and extremely loyal; it’s no accident she’s had the career she’s had.” Fresh off of shooting the Dior Fall/Winter 2018 campaign, Hanson has also shot for brands including Estée Lauder and Vogue. C SPOTS • LFrank Jewelry in Venice—I love Liseanne Frankfurt and her work • Cafe Stella on Sunset Boulevard is our neighborhood hangout when I’m in L.A. • The Punchbowl in Los Feliz for the best juice

C People 1

Jane Larkworthy Bella Newman “The fact that [Christy Turlington Burns] is actively helping save lives when she could be resting on her beauty is downright inspiring,” says Jane Larkworthy of interviewing this month’s cover subject.

Formerly the beauty director at W, the New York-based writer, who contributes to Elle Decor and The Cut, is now beauty editor at large for L’Officiel USA. C SPOTS • The Tennessee Valley Trail in the Marin Headlands for its overwhelming beauty • Dynamo Donut & Coffee in San Francisco, where the flavors change each month • L.A.’s Din Tai Fung for dumplings

C 34 OCTOBER 2018

“It was a fun casting because it became a mosaic of people I love,” says Bella Newman, who shot the Resort 2019 Gucci collection at the storied Chateau Marmont for “Cool and the Gang,” p.110. “It was our playground for the day and somewhat mystifying.”

Currently studying film at NYU, the Pennsylvania native has been shooting for Vogue since high school.

C SPOTS • Mothfood Vintage in Glassell Park • Disneyland for the Peter Pan ride • Driving north on Pacific Coast Highway in Ventura for the strawberry and pie stands

Evelyn Crowley “I was nervous to interview [Adrian Joffe], but he couldn’t have been more delightful,” says writer Evelyn Crowley of talking to the president of Comme des Garçons International ahead of the opening of Dover Street Market for “Block Party.” “He even laughed at my jokes.” Crowley, a Los Angeles-based journalist, has written for Vogue and Violet Grey and is the founder of the digital arts and leisure guide The Caret.

C SPOTS • The bar underneath The Viper Room on Sunset Boulevard is my neighborhood watering hole • Skin Laundry in Santa Monica for a complexion pick-me-up • Terroni on Beverly Boulevard for pasta with a side of pasta

John Hardy

HANDCR AF T ED CHAIN & POWER ROCKS

V I S I T O U R B O U T I Q U E S AT SOU T H COAS T PL A Z A & WES T FIELD CEN T URY CI T Y

#CmyCalifornia

SNAPSHOTS OF THE GOLDEN STATE, AS SEEN THROUGH THE EYES OF ITS BIGGEST FANS

Eungie Joo

A discerning nomad with a Walter Hopps Award-winning perspective, Eungie Joo settled in the Mission District in 2017—by way of New York, Brazil, Denmark, the United Arab Emirates, South Korea and beyond—to become the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art’s first curator of contemporary art. In her new role, the doyenne will apply her worldly point of view to support both emerging and established talents of our time, and build the beloved institution’s programming and exhibits following its recent multimillion-dollar expansion. sfmoma.org.

CMYC

“I could eat every meal at this restaurant.”

5706 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 323-645-7041; baroola.strikingly.com.

“This permanent installation by local artist Barry McGee is one of the beautiful sights on my way to pick up lunch.”

255 Third St., S.F.; viaartfund.org.

JOO PORTRAIT: HEINZ PETER KNES. BAROO: JAKOB N. LAYMAN. MOSCONE CENTER GARAGE: EUNGIE JOO. MOE’S BOOKS: DORIS JO MOSKOWITZ. BERKELEY BOWL MARKETPLACE: USRY ALLEYNE. BLACK CHINA BAKERY, MUIR BEACH (2): EUNGIE JOO. ETEL ADNAN, UNTITLED, 2018: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND SFEIR-SEMLER GALLERY BEIRUT/HAMBURG.

EDITED BY ANUSH BENLIYAN

#CmyCALIFORNIA

“The clientele is racially, ethnically and economically diverse. It’s where I go to buy uni to make nori rolls.”

2020 Oregon St., Berkeley, 510-843-6929; 920 Heinz Ave., Berkeley, 510-898-9555; berkeleybowl.com.

“I’ve shopped at Moe’s Books since 1991. It’s where I first came upon a copy of The Theater of Refusal, an exhibition catalog that changed my life.”

2476 Telegraph Ave., Berkeley, 510-849-2087; moesbooks.com.

CMYC “They make the greatest dense, moist chocolate cake. It’s so good, people don’t know it’s vegan.”

104 Bronson St., Santa Cruz, 831457-2068; blackchinabakery.com.

“My first exhibition at SFMOMA features my favorite Paris-based California painter, Etel Adnan.”

“New Work: Etel Adnan.” Through Jan. 6.

151 Third St., S.F., 415-357-4000; sfmoma.org.

“At low tide, this is the best place to visit sea creatures.”

Marin County.

Graff

AI WEIWEI PORTRAIT: AI WEIWEI STUDIO. SHUYU: IMAGE COURTESY OF AI WEIWEI STUDIO AND MARCIANO ART FOUNDATION.

EDITED BY LESLEY McKENZIE

WH opener

From above: Artist AI WEIWEI has three simultaneous solo exhibitions in L.A. this fall. Shuyu, a mystical creature from a classic Chinese text, crafted

by Ai from silk and bamboo, and installed at the MARCIANO ART FOUNDATION.

Now You See Me

ELUSIVE ARTIST AI WEIWEI AMPLIFIES HIS GLOBAL VISION WITH A TRIO OF LOS ANGELES SHOWS OCTOBER 2018 C 39

Clockwise: Ai’s Life Cycle, a sculptural response to the global refugee crisis, at the Marciano. The Chinese dissident’s marble Surveillance Camera With Plinth at UTA ARTIST SPACE. A detail from Spouts, at the Marciano, comprised of thousands of antique teapot spouts dating back to the Song dynasty.

Opposite, from left: The artist’s porcelain Stacked Vases as a Pillar, installed at UTA Artist Space, a new gallery Ai is helping to redesign. A bronze zodiac dragon head from Ai’s first public sculpture at LACMA in 2011, Circle of Animals/Zodiac Heads.

“I try to imagine that something miraculous can happen even during the most difficult and troubling times. We have to believe in human imagination, to believe that if we make an effort, something will change and the world will be different,” says artist Ai Weiwei of his new sculpture, Life Cycle, installed inside the vast Marciano Art Foundation, the site of his first major institutional exhibition in Los Angeles.

Indeed, the Chinese dissident’s new work evokes whimsical kite-making techniques using weightless strips of dried bamboo, yet the sculpture takes the shape of an overfilled rubber boat, referencing the current global refugee crisis. This fall in L.A., Ai is using such disparate materials as bamboo, marble and plastic Lego bricks to create haunting works—that speak magnitudes—on display simultaneously in a trio of venues: the Marciano, United Talent Agency’s new Beverly Hills-based Artist Space dedicated to its growing stable of fine artists, and Jeffrey Deitch’s eponymous, just-opened Hollywood gallery (see p.71).

The convergence of exhibitions came about almost by chance. Building permission delays pushed Deitch’s inaugural show for Ai to a fall opening, and the summer relocation of UTA’s gallery from Boyle Heights to a Beverly Hills building

C 40 OCTOBER 2018

WH ai wei

steps from the talent agency’s headquarters that Ai, also a trained architect, is helping to renovate also prompted an autumn show there. Add Maurice Marciano’s comprehensive presentation of Ai’s oeuvre, “Ai Weiwei: Life Cycle,” and the artist’s ubiquity this fall is assured.

Ai is one of China’s most well-known living artists, routinely capturing the world’s attention with his prolific work, often focused on social justice and human rights violations. He grew up during China’s Cultural Revolution and spent his childhood in exile after his father, the poet Ai Qing, was declared an enemy of the state. Ai’s confrontational work and provocative criticism of the Chinese government led to 81 days in prison in 2011 (under the pretext of tax evasion charges) and months of house arrest in Beijing (sparking a #freeaiweiwei campaign) before Ai was allowed to leave China for Berlin in 2015.

Now, ideas writ large and city takeovers are becoming Ai’s signature. Last fall, he captivated New York with Good Fences Make Good Neighbors, a series of site-specific security fences and banners addressing migration in the current geopolitical landscape. “This is the way that Weiwei likes to do things,” explains Deitch. “He’s not a conventional artist who fits himself into this conventional

LIFE CYCLE AND SPOUTS (2): IMAGE COURTESY OF AI WEIWEI STUDIO AND MARCIANO ART FOUNDATION. SURVEILLANCE CAMERA WITH PLINTH AND STACKED VASES AS A PILLAR (2): © AI WEIWEI, COURTESY OF UTA ARTIST SPACE. LACMA INSTALLATION PHOTOGRAPH: © AI WEIWEI, PHOTO © MUSEUM ASSOCIATES/LACMA.

WHAT’S HOT system of working exclusively with a gallery. He loves the idea of making a big impact in a city.”

In addition to the delicate new bamboo Life Cycle sculptures, the Marciano exhibition also includes Sunflower Seeds, a monumental 2010 installation of hundreds of thousands of unique seeds made of porcelain, one of China’s most prized exports, along with Spouts (2015), a field of porcelain teapot spouts dating back to the Song dynasty, that Marciano hopes will all “spark thought around questions of identity, nationalism, forced migration, beauty, disaster, and other pressing themes and issues facing humans around the world today.”

Deitch’s “Zodiac” brings together an assortment of Ai’s major works, from Stools, a vast 2013 installation of 6,000 small wooden benches used by generations of Chinese families (which the art dealer compares to a pointillist painting), evoking their shared heritage before the Cultural Revolution ushered in metal or plastic versions, to images of zodiac animals created with Legos that resemble pixilated digital photographs.

UTA’s “Cao” (the Mandarin word for grass as well as an expletive) includes sculptures of grass blades and a marble surveillance camera referencing the scores of surveillance lenses trained on Ai’s former Beijing studio.

Here is an artist who was a refugee as a child, spent years under constant surveillance, and is now shining a spotlight on the ongoing refugee crisis he witnessed firsthand while filming his 2017 feature, Human Flow. Ai’s work, as Marciano points out, is international. “When you look closer, there are so many ideas at play and in dialogue with each other, including art historical references, as well as ancient Chinese mythological imagery, text and language,” Marciano notes.

Yet there’s also plenty of wit and whimsy, too; a deceptively decorative wallpaper installation called The Animal That Looks Like a Llama But Is Really an Alpaca in the “Zodiac” show appears to resemble a pattern of an Hermès scarf but is actually thousands of images of surveillance cameras. Michael Govan, director and CEO of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, which showed Ai’s first major public sculpture in the

city, Circle of Animals/Zodiac Heads (2011), will host a long-awaited Director’s Series conversation with Ai on Sept. 28.

Govan likens the artist to a Socratic gadfly: “Ever creative and playful, Ai Weiwei’s work offers critique, but also, for me, optimism that awareness can create a better future.” “Zodiac” (Sept. 29-Jan. 5) at Jeffrey Deitch, 925 N. Orange Dr., L.A., deitch.com; “Cao” (Oct.4-TBD) at UTA Artist Space, 403 Foothill Rd., Beverly Hills, utaartistspace.com; “Ai Weiwei: Life Cycle” (Sept. 28-March 3) at Marciano Art Foundation, 4357 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., marcianoartfoundation.org; “The Director’s Series: Michael Govan and Ai Weiwei” (Sept. 28) at LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., lacma.org. • EL I ZA B ET H VAR N E L L

WH ai wei

WHAT’S HOT LOS ANGELES

Before he became a famous fashion photographer, worldwide creative director for Giorgio Armani and a senior art director for Gucci Group, Matthias Vriens-McGrath opened a design shop in his native Amsterdam when he was just 23. Thirty years later (including a move to Los Angeles in 2003), the fashion vet returns to retail with the launch of Atelier MVM. The colorful two-story shop is filled with pieces found and fabricated that reflect his perfectly imperfect European sensibility, though one element feels distinctly Californian: “I love making shell mirrors and shell-covered furniture,” says Vriens-McGrath. “I can cement shells for days.” Open Friday through Saturday. 8055 Beverly Blvd., L.A.; ateliermvm.com. K EL S EY M C K I N N ON

From left: A handmade shell mirror, $12,500, on display inside ATELIER MVM. Owner and designer MATTHIAS VRIENS-MCGRATH.

HAYES VALLEY

IN Abundance

LOS ANGELES

CASA BLANCA Nestled in the foothills below the Hollywood sign, Villa Carlotta recently opened its doors as an enchanting extended-stay property for those craving the comforts of home with the amenities of a five-star boutique hotel. A yearlong renovation of the historic landmark restored its ornate 1920s facade while, inside, Christos Prevezanos of Studio Preveza kitted out 50 apartments with fully equipped kitchens, Parisian-style dining areas and expansive living rooms. The property also features a palm garden and a rooftop, and there are plans for a pool. “We have a revolving door of interesting characters including actors, artists, musicians and creative nomads,” says Brian McGrory, Villa Carlotta’s general manager.

“Everyone appreciates the architecture, the design and the location, but most of all, the building’s character and soul.” Minimum 30-day stays from $5,300/month. 5959 Franklin Ave., L.A., 323-628-6628; villacarlottala.com. K.M.

Husband-and-wife team Evan and Sarah Rich bring the flavor chutzpah of their Hayes Valley restaurant to a WH bits debut cookbook of the same name: Rich Table (Chronicle Books, $35). Unexpected pairings delight, such as tagliatelle with uni, Meyer lemon and poppyseed toffee.

199 Gough St., S.F., 415-355-9085; richtablesf.com.

The living room of a two-bedroom duplex at VILLA CARLOTTA. Left: Sunset drinks on the rooftop.

ATELIER MVM INTERIOR: MATTHIAS VRIENS-M C GRATH. VRIENS-M C GRATH PORTRAIT: DONOVAN VRIENS-M C GRATH.

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CRISP Edit

Clockwise: Lucia blouse, $358, and Lake pants, $385. JEANA SOHN wearing the Lucia shirtdress, $449.

Seoul shearling coat, $849.

“Learning a new thing makes me really happy,” confesses multihyphenate creative Jeana Sohn, talking from her Silver Lake studio, where she’s been stealthily at work on a namesake collection of exacting minimalist clothes for the past year. The native Korean says her fall launch of 13 tightly edited staples emerged after she perfected two initial designs: a buttondown shirt and a pair of high-waisted pants. But the CalArts graduate kept her project under wraps while she located pattern makers and a factory that could duplicate her ideas in Seoul, South Korea. “I always prefer plain, simple, beautiful materials,” says Sohn, who uses fabrics from Italy and Japan for crisp shirts, polished skirts, diaphanous dresses, and tailored coats adorned with natural motherof-pearl, and coconut and horn buttons.

WH bits

HIGHTIDE STORE DTLA features products by Japanese artisans.

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES

Write Stuff Following in the steps of surf label Banks Journal and indie bicycle shop Tokyobike, Hightide is the latest in a wave of Japanese brands to set up shop at Row DTLA. The first U.S. outpost of the stationery brand offers goods made by Japanese artisans as well as unabashedly lo-fi European and American office supplies in a space that encourages hanging out. 787 S. Alameda St., L.A., 213-935-8135; hightidestoredtla.com. MA RTIN E BURY

C 44 OCTOBER 2018

Though she grew up in a very small Korean town, Sohn says she “always had this dream to move to a bigger city someday, and do bigger things.” She took up illustration and painting stateside while studying film and worked as a storyboard artist before a series of gallery shows led to solo work in a lonely studio. “I was getting shyer every year,” Sohn admits, so she started the influential wardrobe blog Closet Visit and took up photography.

Soon she was shooting lookbooks for L.A. designers Clare Vivier and Jesse Kamm. “I saw behind the scenes and it made me really curious about the business,” says Sohn.

“I want to make pieces that don’t speak too much, but look put together and chic,” she adds. “You are the primary focus, not the clothes.” jeanasohnstudio.com. E.V.

JEANA SOHN LOOKBOOK IMAGES (2): JEANA SOHN. SOHN PORTRAIT: BRAD BREECK. HIGHTIDE INTERIOR: HIGHTIDE STORE DTLA. THE GALLERY INTERIOR: TROYCE HOFFMAN.

WHAT’S HOT

SEBASTOPOL

Flight of Fancy Venerated wine label Kosta Browne has added another dimension to Sonoma County’s ever-expanding oenophilecentric experiences with The Gallery, a tasting space in Sebastopol that provides a coveted opportunity for Kosta Browne mailing list members—both those who receive allocations and those waiting to nab a coveted spot—to access winemaker Nico Cueva’s small-production, single-vineyard wines and appellation blends. $75 for active members, $125 for those new to the mailing list. Tuesday through Saturday, by appointment only.

220 Morris St., Sebastopol; kostabrowne.com. J ESS I C A R I TZ

THE GALLERY

by KOSTA BROWNE overlooks the main barrel and fermentation room.

Roberto Cavalli

2.

1.

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10.

SHERRI McMullen

3.

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WH tastemaker 9.

“I’m starting a new chapter,” says fashion innovator Sherri McMullen minutes after stepping off a plane from Copenhagen, Denmark, where she attended the city’s fashion week. In addition to relocating her eponymous boutique—launched in Piedmont 11 years ago—to uptown Oakland and doubling her square footage, McMullen is expanding her assortment of established designers to include new brands she discovers abroad. The Oakland resident trained as a buyer in Dallas at Neiman Marcus, and decamped to San Francisco to help launch Pottery Barn Kids before hanging her own shingle and instantly creating an across-the-Bay destination for designs by Proenza Schouler, Jacquemus and Brandon Maxwell.

McMullen’s search for experimental style is also mission-driven, leading her to champion Nigerian brand Maki Oh and Japanese label Hozen. “I’m looking to see if designers are producing responsibly, what’s important to them and whether they’re helping to support women and families in those areas where they’re producing,” she explains. Here are a few things catching McMullen’s watchful eye. shopmcmullen.com. • E .V.

C 46 OCTOBER 2018

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1. HANS-AGNE JAKOBSSON 1960s Model T-603 fringe pendant light, $4,000, 1stdibs.com.

2. GRAND LAKE THEATRE, 3200 Grand Ave., Oakland.

3. URBAN REMEDY Cold Crusher cold-pressed juice, $11, urbanremedy.com.

4. VINTNER’S DAUGHTER Active Botanical Serum, $185/oz., c-stateofmind.com.

5. SOLANGE A Seat at the Table album. 6. LA MER Crème de la Mer moisturizing cream, $325/2 oz., cremedelamer.com.

7. JACQUEMUS FAYA pumps, $615, shopmcmullen.com.

8. STINE GOYA Celeste coat, $770, shopmcmullen.com.

9. BECOMING by Michelle Obama (Crown, $35).

10. ANNIE COSTELLO BROWN Split Circle earrings, $320, modaoperandi.com.

11. BRANDON MAXWELL circle dress, $1,695, shopmcmullen.com.

M CMULLEN PORTRAIT: MARIA DEL RIO. GRAND LAKE THEATER: BWCHICAGO © 2008 (FLICKR.COM/PHOTOS/ BWCHICAGO/2772007369), LICENSED UNDER CC BY 2.0 (CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/BY/2.0/).

WHAT’S HOT Tastemaker

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CUSTOMIZED INTERIOR DESIGN SERVICE

Gucci PSA

LOOKBOOK IMAGE: MARIA DEL RIO. SHOWROOM INTERIOR: JUVILYNN ARBUTHNOT.

KAMPERETT Leonard shirt, $415, and Lennon trench coat, $775. Below: Inside the new San Francisco showroom and atelier.

EDITED BY ALISON EDMOND

Fashion opener

Past Is Prologue

KAMPERETT STRENGTHENS ITS ROOTS IN SAN FRANCISCO’S MISSION DISTRICT After melding their mothers’ maiden names to form the moniker of their threeyear-old, San Francisco-based women’s brand, Kamperett co-founders Anna Chiu and Valerie Santillo have turned to their families as a creative source once again.

Chiu, a former children’s wear designer who worked at Ksubi denim, and Santillo,

an illustrator who designed for Cynthia Rowley, hand-painted abstractions of their grandmothers’ gardens onto silk organza dresses for their current collection. They also crafted Japanese cotton jumpsuits with pockets shaped like those on one grandfather’s workman jacket. “We wove these memories into the pieces,” Chiu

says. Looking to the future, the pair recently converted their Mission District studio into a shop, welcoming clients, artists and speakers. “We want to offer a customized experience,” Santillo explains.

Adds Chiu, “And...some cool parties.”

3686 20th St., S.F.; kamperett.com.

• K H A N H T. L . T RA N

OCTOBER 2018 C 49

COSTA MESA

LUCKY CHARMS

Singer FRANÇOISE HARDY, in 1974, wearing two Alhambra necklaces.

Vintage Alhambra bracelet featuring diamonds by VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, $12,900.

Fashion bits

Inspired by four-leaf clovers, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra collection has blossomed since its debut in 1968.

Once worn by actor Romy Schneider and singer Françoise Hardy, the original necklace—featuring 20 clovershaped motifs in gold—has evolved into bracelets and rings featuring rare stones and other materials paired with precious metals, such as gray mother-of-pearl in rose gold. As part of a worldwide celebration of the collection’s 50th anniversary, the French jewelry brand is launching a 10-day exhibition on Oct. 4 at South Coast Plaza, where visitors can immerse themselves in the story behind Van Cleef & Arpels’ iconic designs inspired by good fortune, something the company holds dear.

3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-5459500; vancleefarpels.com. K .T. L .T.

From left: JONATHAN SIMKHAI Fall/Winter 2018. The store-officestudio space on La Cienega Boulevard.

DAVID YURMAN Cable Collectibles ceramic pinky rings, $450 each.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

Smooth Move POP Art David Yurman modernizes traditional gold and silver signet rings with colorful ceramic that’s molded onto sterling silver bands.

The pinky rings stand out as mini statements of individuality. 371 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-8888618; davidyurman.com. K .T. L.T.

Having long dreamed of moving to Los Angeles from New York, Jonathan Simkhai has planted roots in West Hollywood. The designer houses his atelier, office and inaugural boutique in a space that, like his eightyear-old brand’s aesthetic, is “clean yet modern,” says Simkhai. A past winner of the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, Simkhai offers exclusives such as bridal gowns and limited-edition evening looks alongside his fall ready-to-wear collection featuring power suits and satin-and-lace slip dresses. 653 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 424-284-3071; jonathansimkhai.com. K .T. L .T.

FRANCOISE HARDY: CATHERINE ROTULO, COURTESY OF VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. JONATHAN SIMKHAI RUNWAY AND STOREFRONT (2): COURTESY JONATHAN SIMKHAI. SIMON MILLER: MILAN ZRNIC. THE MUPPET SHOW X SANDRO: COURTESY OF SANDRO.

FASHION

SIMON MILLER S810 Lunchbag, $485.

Retro Active

WEST HOLLYWOOD

SIMON SAYS

Denim-turned-lifestyle brand Simon Miller’s pop-up shop at Fred Segal boasts metallic trucker jackets and cheery clutches designed by creative directors Daniel Corrigan and Chelsea Hansford.

8500 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310-432-0560; simonmillerusa.com.

Italian fashion house Etro is celebrating its 50th anniversary with a capsule collection that blends ’60s psychedelia with contemporary street-wise style. Among the 39 color-saturated pieces for men and women are paisley-print sweatshirts, fringed scarves and graphic tees, emblazoned with messages such as “faithful to love & beauty.” Groovy!

9501 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-248-2855; etro.com. K .T. L .T.

ICE QUEEN

The new Tiffany & Co. Blue Book collection, The Four Seasons of Tiffany, conjures wintertime with shimmering pieces rendered in platinum with aquamarines and diamonds. tiffany.com.

TIFFANY & CO. necklace, price upon request.

Fashion bits ETRO sweater, $960.

From left: THE MUPPET SHOW x SANDRO scarf, $125, and T-shirt, $150.

COSTA MESA

SHOWTIME “I’ve always loved watching The Muppet Show,” confides Sandro founder and artistic director Evelyne Chétrite. Said revelation explains the French brand’s new collaboration—and first mommyand-me collection—with Kermit the Frog. To showcase the 30-plus pieces (bearing the famous amphibian’s face) for kids and women, Sandro is hosting a neon-lit pop-up shop at South Coast Plaza. “Our aim was to combine our two worlds: the funny spirit of the Muppets and Sandro’s Parisian aesthetics, but with an androgynous twist,” says Chétrite of the whimsical designs. Oct. 1-10. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-557-2820; us.sandro-paris.com. K .T. L .T. K.T.L.T

2.

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1. EDIE PARKER Aliza Brocade bag, $1,695, edie-parker.com.

2. WEEKEND MAX MARA Signature Collection Trophy Day mules by Richard Saja, $325, Weekend Max Mara, Costa Mesa. 3. ERDEM Mathilde mules, $830, erdem.com.

4. ROCHAS square frame bag, price upon request, rochas.com. 5. GIORGIO ARMANI tassel earrings, similar styles available, Giorgio Armani, Beverly Hills. 6. & OTHER STORIES patterned clutch, $85, & Other Stories, Beverly Hills.

7. AQUAZZURA Powder Puff mules 45, $795, aquazzura.com.

8. OSCAR DE LA RENTA chenille jacquard small Alibi bag, $2,190, Oscar de la Renta, Costa Mesa.

9. JIMMY CHOO Sonia 100 Viola suede pumps, similar colors available, Jimmy Choo, Beverly Hills. 10. ADINA REYTER Folded Fan necklace with pavé diamonds, $625, adinareyter.com.

11. DRIES VAN NOTEN green cotton and viscose shoes, $880, Barneys New York, Beverly Hills.

12. CH CAROLINA HERRERA Metropolitan Insignia clutch, $2,235, CH Carolina Herrera, Beverly Hills. 13. ATTICO velvet pouch with decorations, $464, matchesfashion.com.

14. CHLOE GOSSELIN satin pumps with buckle detail, $905, chloegosselin.com.

14.

KENZO Fall/Winter 2018.

13.

4.

Fashion trend

12.

FASHION MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. RUNWAY: COURTESY OF KENZO. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.118.

FASHION Trend

5.

6.

7.

STITCH in Time

11.

EMBROIDERED SILKS AND ADORNED VELVETS DISPLAY A NOSTALGIC ELEGANCE 10.

9.

8.

Caruso Properties

3.

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1.

IRIS VAN HERPEN Fall 2018 Couture.

14.

Fashion jbox 13.

1. ARON HIRSCH Omo threecharm necklace, $12,580, brokenenglishjewelry.com.

2. WASHED ASHORE Lorelei cuff in silver, $120, washedashore.co.

3. SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO Fishbone earrings, $1,995, Saint Laurent, Beverly Hills.

4. DAVID WEBB Octopus coral, gold and platinum brooch, price upon request, davidwebb.com.

5. GRAFF Wave necklace with diamonds and sapphires, price upon request, Graff, S.F. 6. BULGARI High Jewelry bracelet with aquamarine, price upon request, Bulgari, Beverly Hills. 7. AURÉLIE BIDERMANN Aurélie turtle single earring, $95, aureliebidermann.com.

8. MIZUKI freshwater pearl and diamond earrings, $2,495, net-a-porter.com. 9. TIFFANY & CO. Schlumberger Two Fish bracelet, price upon request, tiffany.com. 10. GUCCI charm with shark tooth motif, $970, gucci.com.

11. BIBI VAN DER VELDEN Mermaid bangle with Tahitian pearl, $7,360, bibivandervelden.com.

12. LOQUET ring with rainbow, anchor and rose quartz charms, $2,680, loquetlondon.com.

13. BUCCELLATI cocktail pendant earrings, price upon request, buccellati.com.

14. CARTIER Coloratura High Jewelry ring, price upon request, available by appointment only, Cartier, Beverly Hills.

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OCEAN State

DIVE IN DEEP WITH FALL’S UNDERWATER-INSPIRED GEMS 8.

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C 54 OCTOBER 2018

FASHION MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. RUNWAY: COURTESY OF IRIS VAN HERPEN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.118.

FASHION Jewelry Box

www.brunellocucinelli.com

H uman P rivacy

Brunello Cucinelli

Two Rodeo Drive

South Coast Plaza

San Francisco

Las Vegas

Roger’s Gardens

WRITTEN & EDITED BY KELLY ATTERTON

CARL TIMPONE/BFA/SHUTTERSTOCK

Beauty opener

Backstage at the TOM FORD Fall/Winter 2018 show.

High Impact

THIS SEASON’S STATEMENT-MAKING LOOKS ARE DESIGNED TO WOW Fall beauty is all about bold choices, whether it’s oversized hair accessories, vibrant eye color or an architectural haircut.

“Accessories like hair wraps, banana clips or big, thick headbands (as seen on the runway at Tom Ford), and the return of

the classic ponytail, all make life easier,” says Los Angeles-based celebrity hairstylist Mara Roszak. “Don’t overthink it.

The best fall runway hair is simple.”

On trend? Smoky eyes in browns, blues and dark grays. “Try a colored

lash in blue or teal,” makeup artist Romy Soleimani suggests. “The effect is cool and confident. Or consider incorporating gold in the center of your eyelid so you [give] a little flash when you blink.” •

OCTOBER 2018 C 57

FIRST BASE

The future of foundation is here with Kosås’ Tinted Face Oil. Mineral pigments—delivered through six active, rejuvenating botanical oils—produce medium coverage, all-day wear and a flawless complexion.

KOSÅS Tinted Face Oil, $42/30 mL.

kosas.com.

NAILED IT “I was searching for a classic, chic yet modern look,” says celebrity manicurist and polish producer Jin Soon Choi, “when I realized I didn’t have black and white in any of my color palettes— and these are essential to fashion!” She recently added three monochromatic shades to her Jinsoon Nail Lacquer line: black, white and color-free glitter.

She suggests using one color, with contrasting accents. jinsoon.com.

From left: DRUNK ELEPHANT D-Bronzi Anti-Pollution Sunshine Serum, $36, sephora.com.

DR. LORETTA Intense Replenishing Serum, $70, drloretta.com. SKYN ICELAND Glacial Spray Lotion with Anti-Pollution Complex, $35, ulta.com.

FRESH Black Tea Kombucha Facial Treatment Essence, $68, fresh.com.

Beauty bits JINSOON Nail Lacquer, $18 each.

Clear the Air Antipollution skincare products are having a moment. Sun exposure, smoking and genetics all contribute to skin’s premature aging; add smog and soot particles and you have potential for serious damage, “even at the DNA level,” says renowned dermatologist Dr. Ava Shamban.

Fortunately, a growing number of products contain a heavy dose of antioxidants, which, when used with a good moisturizer, improve the barrier function of the skin.

CHANGE AGENT

Allison McNamara’s beauty obsession is in her genes. As the daughter of a skincare executive, she was raised with insider savvy that she parlayed into her own line, Mara, launched earlier this year, with the game-changing Universal Face Oil, which does the work of both a serum and a moisturizer.

This fall, the Los Angeles-based beauty expert introduces Mara’s Algae Retinol Face Oil (1.2 percent retinol), which supercharges cellular turnover without drying skin. “Our moisturizing base of hemp-derived cannabis, fermented green tea, fermented argan and evening primrose keeps skin happy and hydrated,” she says. themarabeauty.com.

MARA Algae Retinol Face Oil, $120/30 mL.

BLACK-AND-WHITE MANICURE: COURTESY OF JINSOON.

BEAUTY

Kohanaiki

BEAUTY Trend 4.

2.

5.

3.

1. KJAER WEIS cream foundation, $68, kjaerweis.com.

2. ARTIS Elite Smoke palm brush, $65, artisbrush.com.

3. NP BEAUTIFUL flat iron, $249, npbeautiful.com.

4. PAT MCGRATH LABS Lip Fetish lip balm in Clear, $38, patmcgrath.com.

5. HOURGLASS Curator Lash Instrument, $78, hourglasscosmetics.com.

6. WESTMAN ATELIER Lit Up Highlight Stick, $48, barneys.com.

7. NATURELAB.TOKYO Perfect Volume shampoo, $14, amazon.com.

8. MAKE Celeste E Verde palette, $40, makebeauty .com. 9. SMITH & CULT Fosse Fingers in Metallic Terracotta-ish, $18, smithandcult.com.

10. SHISEIDO Waso Clear Mega-Hydrating Cream, $38, shiseido.com. 11. L’OEIL DU VERT Hollywood Jasmine fragrance, $695, violetgrey .com. 12. KEVIN MURPHY Young.Again.Wash, $35, kevinmurphy.com.au.

13. DYSON Supersonic hair dryer in 23.75-karat gold, $499, dyson.com. 14. DR. DENNIS GROSS SKINCARE DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro, $435, sephora.com.

14.

Beauty trend

13.

12.

FORM and Function

HIGH-CONCEPT VENDIBLES, DESIGNED TO LOOK AS GOOD AS THEY PERFORM 9.

10.

11.

C 60 OCTOBER 2018

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JEM MITCHELL/TRUNK ARCHIVE

1.

Creed

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EDITED BY MELISSA GOLDSTEIN

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Design opener

ETC.ETERA Block coffee table in square, from $3,250.

Elements of Surprise

ETC.ETERA’S DEBUT FURNITURE COLLECTION IS JUST THE LATEST CHAPTER IN AN UNCOMMON STORY OCTOBER 2018 C 63

Design firm Etc.etera’s studio looms large on an unremarkable strip of Glendale Boulevard in Los Angeles’ Historic Filipinotown. A “Happy Birthday” mural calls out to passersby from the building’s industrial facade, a vivid display of bubble letters painted over a rust background co-founder Jake Rodehuth-Harrison lovingly describes as “1980s Santa Fe.” “We knew we didn’t want to put our name on the building—that just feels too obvious—so we thought: What’s something that would make someone’s day if they saw it?” explains RodehuthHarrison, who previously worked as creative director at vintage-modern furniture brand Lawson-Fenning. “It’s always someone’s birthday.”

You could argue it’s the perfect visual metaphor for the company he co-founded with designer Sally Breer (whose client list includes Zooey Deschanel and Hilary Duff) in 2016. The duo excels at infusing narrative-driven elements into the everyday. This manifests in their hospitality work at hotelier Dustin Lancaster’s beloved Hotel Covell in Los Feliz (originally conceptualized

by Breer to reflect the worldly tastes of her fictional muse, George Covell), and throughout their residential portfolio: A

C 64 OCTOBER 2018

recent project features a forest green-tiled powder room with a vintage 1970s zodiac mirror, inspired by the Ministry of Magic from Harry Potter—a nod to the clients’ predilection for J.K. Rowling’s series.

This fall, the pair is debuting a furniture collection inspired by the bold color palette and silhouettes of the Memphis design movement and the simple geometry of the Seven Wonders of the World. The customizable pieces aspire to be “simple at first glance,” Rodehuth-Harrison says. The Block coffee table, for example, is available in

Design turn

three shapes (square, circle and octagon) and conceptualized to be reinvented: The top can be switched out, and the base can be moved around the table’s edge to change the piece’s profile.

They are also launching a new by-appointment showroom inside their studio, divided into a small gallery space (the first featured artist will be Kim Swift, who has collaborated with Breer and Rodehuth-Harrison on a cheeky wallpaper pattern of breast imprints) and an immersive showcase of vignettes pairing vintage pieces with their own.

Alongside all of this, another hospitality project looms: the Arts District-set Firehouse Hotel, slated to open for the holiday season. The venture reunites them with Lancaster, and will include a restaurant and coffee-bar-cum-giftshop on the ground floor, where Breer and Rodehuth-Harrison will sell robes, slippers and valet trays they are making for the guest rooms, plus other exclusive collaborations. “Our idea is: Can there be things for sale that give us an opportunity to work with an artist that we really like?” Breer says. “It’s a playground.” 142 Glendale Blvd., L.A., 213-266-8379; etcforshort.com. • M.G .

Clockwise from right: The design firm’s festive headquarters.

Figurative paintings and a custom mirror adorn the living room of SALLY BREER’s former Frogtown loft. A breakfast nook in a residential project in Los Feliz features LAWSON-FENNING Morro chairs and a quirky painting by artist ROSE WALTON. Etc.etera’s wallpaper collaboration with artist KIM SWIFT. Breer and JAKE RODEHUTH-HARRISON. The Chapter 9 suite at the recently expanded HOTEL COVELL. A sketch of the firm’s new Loop daybed.

LOS FELIZ BREAKFAST NOOK AND HOTEL COVELL SUITE (2): TESSA NEUSTADT. WALLPAPER: ARTWORK BY KIM SWIFT. BREER AND RODEHUTH-HARRISON: HAMISH ROBERTSON. LOFT LIVING ROOM: LAURE JOLIET. ETC.ETERA HEADQUARTERS: JAKE RODEHUTH-HARRISON.

DESIGN

Flexform

FLEXFORM SAN FRANCISCO 145 Rhode Island Street San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel. 415-800-6576 info@33sixty.com www.33sixty.com

FLEXFORM LOS ANGELES 308 North Robertson Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90048 Tel. 310-424-5460 info@33sixty.com www.33sixty.com

If Emeryville-based artist Beth Naumann’s brass wall hangings remind you of the Bay Area’s evocative art deco structures, it’s no coincidence: She studied interior architecture and product design at Kansas State University, and worked at an architectural firm, before moving to California in 2009 and launching her art career and jewelry brand, Hellbent, two years later. (She devoted herself full time to those pursuits in 2014.) Naumann, who’s never had formal metalwork training, says she is “always looking at buildings to see how different shapes interact with each other.” For her mesmerizing creations, she molds every piece of brass by hand, having developed her own looping technique to hold the strands together. The results, available on her website and at San Francisco’s West Coast Craft exhibition in November, are at once delicate and bold: from a mazelike, fringed Rain Cloud sculpture inspired by Chinese art, to an interactive contemporary hanging piece composed of 40 slim brass boxes, which can be manipulated to appear 2D one minute and 3D the next. westcoastcraft.com; bethnaumann.com. KA R EN PA L M ER

Pedestal by BETH NAUMANN, $1,000.

Right: An untitled commission for San Francisco restaurant MISTER JIU’S.

Design bits Seat of Honor WEST HOLLYWOOD

CLOUD KNITS oversized cashmere throws in Sand (below) and Turmeric, $995 each.

Italian furniture maker Minotti—whose first solo-brand showroom debuted in Los Angeles in 2004—marks its 70th birthday with a special edition of the Albert & Ile collection, including its mohair velvet Albert seating and Ile marble coffee table.

Originally designed in the 1960s and named for Minotti’s founder and his wife, the reworked range showcases the clean lines and modern flair for which the brand is known. 8936 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 310-278-6851; minotti-la.com. K . P.

BLANKET Statement

Ethically sourced and designed, knitted and hand-finished by a female-operated, L.A.based company, Cloud Knits is a new line of lush Italian cashmere throws you can feel good about wrapping around yourself.

Pillows are available for preorder. cloudknits.com.

C 66 OCTOBER 2018

MINOTTI’s Ile armchair, upholstered in Ocean Blue mohair velvet, $9,866.

BETH NAUMANN: BETH NAUMANN. CLOUD KNITS: KOURTNEY JACKSON SMITH. UMÉ STUDIO (2): MEI-LAN TAN. GENERAL PUBLIC: COURTESY OF GENERAL PUBLIC.

Bold as Brass

HITTING THE BOOKS

DESIGN

UMÉ STUDIO’s Erode soaps, $48 each, come in a range of scents and patterns, and are intended to be paired with the brand’s hand-cast concrete Bouton dishes, $35 each.

NEWLY PRINTED PAGES OF CALIFORNIA DESIGN INSPIRATION

PERSONAL SPACE Courteney Cox and Laura Dern go to designer Trip Haenisch for low-key elegance with an edge; now you can take cues from the talent yourself.

Rizzoli New York, $50.

Curves Ahead NOTES ON DECOR, ETC. Paul Fortune offers colorful anecdotes from his life as a nightclub owner and music video art director along with cinematic, retro-fabulous spaces for the likes of Marc Jacobs and Sofia Coppola.

Rizzoli New York, $55. $55

For the sweeping slopes of their Erode soap collection, the Oakland-based duo behind Umé Studio drew upon their shared architectural prowess—founders Mei-Lan Tan and Victor Lefebvre met at Swiss firm Herzog & de Meuron in 2014. Made from garden botanicals, mineral-rich clays and essential oils, the art-meets-utility forms are an ode to landscapes worn away by water and wind. “We like an organic object whose shape changes as it’s being used,” says Lefebvre. This month, they debut three new soap scents, as well as a conceptual candle and silver cups inspired by Balinese temples. ume-studio.com. K ER ST I N C ZA R RA

IN THEbits FRAME Design

BE BOLD San Francisco designer Jay Jeffers celebrates his 20th anniversary in the business with his second book, an eclectic showcase spanning posh Bay Area addresses and beyond.

Gibbs Smith, $50.

CITY OF ANGELS Peek behind the gates of some of L.A.’s most breathtaking homes— from Kelly Wearstler’s Malibu beach retreat, to the Garcia House, a midcentury icon perched in the Hollywood Hills.

Vendome Press, $75. K.P.

“I really believe it’s time that technology assisted painting in the same way it’s helped other art forms,” says actor and artist Portia de Rossi, who recently launched General Public, an art curation and publishing company to do just that. Last spring, her venture’s patented Synograph, a special 3D printing process de Rossi created with Fujifilm, began reproducing minute brushstrokes and textures of abstract and gestural works by emerging and established artists. (She launched with an exclusive capsule collection of contemporary pieces for RH.) This fall, de Rossi is adding landscapes, portraits and still-life paintings to the General Public offerings, including works by local talents such as Ali Rose, Darel Carey and Isabella Innis. From $500. generalpublic.art; rh.com. E.V.

Clockwise from above: KOEN LYBAERT’s Abstract 1757 for GENERAL PUBLIC x RH, $2,621.

PORTIA DE ROSSI. On the Faces of the Deep and He Also Is Flesh by ISABELLA INNIS, $1,710 each.

SACRED GROUND

A GILDED NEW TOME EXPLORES THE ELABORATE WORLD INSIDE DAWNRIDGE, THEN AND NOW

Design spotlight “Every house should have a name. They are just like people,” explains Hutton Wilkinson when discussing the magical Dawnridge property, which his late mentor and eventual business partner, maximalist interior design legend Tony Duquette, built from scratch in 1949.

In his new book out in October, Tony Duquette’s Dawnridge (Abrams Books, $75), Wilkinson gives readers a tour of the Beverly Hills abode, juxtaposing archival images with current ones. After Duquette’s death, Wilkinson and his wife, Ruth, bought the estate—adding their own home next door, as well as a three-bedroom guesthouse. They painstakingly redecorated each room with items made by Duquette and his wife, Elizabeth, as many of the original antiques were sold at auction.

Though the book comes nearly 20 years after the rule-breaking artist’s passing, Dawnridge is thriving. “The difference between Dawnridge and other historic houses is that this home is very much alive,” says Wilkinson. Each morning, he

C 68 OCTOBER 2018

walks from his residence Casa la Condesa across an exotic garden lined with clamshell étagères, giant obelisks and statues from Southeast Asia to Dawnridge, and uses the home as the headquarters for his decorating and jewelry businesses. Wilkinson also still hosts weekly private lunches and dinner parties for friends, boasting of his chef’s “divine Mexican food.”

Notwithstanding the current preoccupation with minimalism, Duquette’s

Clockwise from above: The gardens feature more than 2,000 potted plants and a man-made lake.

TONY DUQUETTE outside the Louvre during his one-man exhibition, circa 1951.

The current drawing room in HUTTON and RUTH WILKINSON’s house, Casa la Condesa. A dramatic garden statue graces the cover of TONY DUQUETTE’S DAWNRIDGE. Antique Thai roof ends, Balinese parasols, Chinese pots and a bronze birdlike Garuda flank the entrance of the Garden Room, circa 1980. Duquette never used the Garden Room—it was merely an excuse to decorate a space with some of his favorite things.

approach seems more relevant than ever. “Tony was the king of the found object. He always said he was a ‘do-ityourself de’ Medici,’” says Wilkinson, citing examples of how Duquette constantly recycled and repurposed nontraditional materials. “The legacy of Dawnridge is about staying true to yourself, never compromising and understanding that nothing is too precious or too lowly…as long as it’s beautiful.” • K . M .

THE GARDENS PHOTO AND DUQUETTE CONTACT SHEET (2): DUQUETTE ARCHIVES; FROM TONY DUQUETTE’S DAWNRIDGE, ABRAMS, 2018.

GARDEN ROOM AND DRAWING ROOM (2): TIM STREET-PORTER; FROM TONY DUQUETTE’S DAWNRIDGE, ABRAMS, 2018.

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Culture opener

JEFFREY DEITCH (left) consulting with one of his co-gallery directors ETHEL SENO (to Deitch’s left) and team in the new space.

On With the Show

ART WORLD MAVERICK JEFFREY DEITCH IS PUTTING A NEW STAKE IN THE GROUND IN LOS ANGELES, THIS TIME WITH A PROVOCATIVE GALLERY ALL HIS OWN

CULTURE

C 72 OCTOBER 2018

voice,” says Deitch. “I admire artists, writers and musicians who do that, who go beyond and use their components to take a moral position.” Plus, Ai is known for dominating large spaces. His exhibition in Alcatraz in 2015 covered nearly the entire prison with Lego sculptures, kites, a sound installation and a giant sculpture.

Deitch calls his gallery a “social creative platform.” For him, that means a deemphasis on commerce, and an approach that, hopefully, will inspire audiences.

Culture bits

Clockwise from top left: The exterior of the gallery, still in progress on North Orange Drive.

The interior of the 15,000-square-foot space designed by FRANK GEHRY. Deitch.

RAINER HOSCH

Ask Jeffrey Deitch why he’s returned to Los Angeles and he’ll say with a little twinkle, “I never left.” It’s true. He may have departed the helm of the Museum of Contemporary Art in 2013, but the art dealer has deep roots in the city with clients such as Eli Broad and friendships with artists including Paul McCarthy, Kenny Scharf and Charles Ray. Deitch has always made waves with his envelope-pushing shows, often bringing in street artists or fringe players alongside big-ticket names, but almost always offering mass appeal. His show, “Art in the Streets,” a major historical exhibition of graffiti and street art, brought more than 200,000 visitors to the museum, shattering previous attendance records for any show at MOCA. Today, he is in a cheerful, spry mood as he surveys his newest endeavor, a gigantic 15,000-square-foot eponymous space in Hollywood designed by Frank Gehry— all glass, cement floors and curvilinear wooden beams. “One of the strongest clusters of galleries and creative spaces in Los Angeles is already here,” he says, noting the Marciano Art Foundation and David Kordansky Gallery are just a short drive away. He’s also back on his own terms, as a gallerist, doing what he does best: composing shows and representing artists. For the opening on Sept. 29, Deitch aimed high. He arranged to bring work never seen in the U.S., created by global megastar, social campaigner and protest artist Ai Weiwei (see p.39), whom he has known for 15 years. “[Ai] is one of the rare artists who takes on a moral

“ONE OF THE STRONGEST CLUSTERS OF GALLERIES AND CREATIVE SPACES IN LOS ANGELES IS ALREADY HERE.”

Culture bits “Only in L.A. do you have a passionate group of art viewers who venture from a variety of creative fields,” Deitch says.

Ai’s opening show will see 6,000 antique Chinese three-legged stools arranged throughout the space, a piece that was at the Martin Gropius Bau in Berlin in 2014. It’s a visual statement that evokes the power—past and future— of the Chinese people. “The stools are almost surrogates for people,” Deitch marvels. “Often these stools from the Ming and Qing dynasties were part of a family’s household and passed down through generations,” he explains. “If a leg broke off, they’d simply make another.”

The second show, tied to the first Frieze Los Angeles contemporary art fair in February, will be “The Extreme Present,” inspired by the book The Age of Earthquakes by Douglas Coupland, Hans Ulrich Obrist and Shumon Basar. It looks at the legacy of Dada and pop art in the digital

age. He’s also working on a show and book called Unrealism. “People are always asking me what the latest ism is,” Deitch says.

“This show is trying to articulate what’s going on with the new figurative, because you just don’t have these isms of the ’60s.”

And Deitch knows all of the ism trends of the art world from the inside out. He’s been doing this for almost 50 years. “I’ve put on more than 350 shows,” he notes.

Raised in Connecticut by an executive father and economist mother, he cut his teeth at the John Weber gallery in New York and befriended artists such as Sol Lewitt. He partied at Mudd Club and hobnobbed with New York characters such as Jean-Michel Basquiat, being the first to write about him not as SAMO (Basquiat and his friend Al Diaz’s graffiti tag from their teenage years), and giving the eulogy at his funeral. He’s an art writer with a serious business background: Harvard Business School followed by years in the

art department at Citibank.

With so many connections and years in this line of work, Deitch leads the international life of a major player in the art world.

His new space will certainly mean that he’ll spend even more time at his Spanishstyle Los Feliz home, once owned by Cary Grant and Randolph Scott. But being everywhere at once is part and parcel of his business, especially if you do it his way.

“For me, it’s all about personal relationships,” Deitch says, adding that he prefers to be involved as much as possible in every aspect of his work. Deitch has always been a bit of a provocateur—which appeals to the creators with whom he cultivates relationships. For example, after the “Art in the Streets” show, he threw a party for the security guards and the artists. “Contemporary art is a very elitist field,” he explains.

“But I keep wanting to go beyond that and open it up to everybody.” 925 N. Orange Dr., L.A.; deitch.com. •

OCTOBER 2018 C 73

State of the ART

THIS FALL, SIX OF CALIFORNIA’S MUST-SEE SHOWS DEMAND A CLOSER LOOK

Culture roundup

Starting at Stanford University, visit the Cantor Arts Center for the comprehensive “Contact Warhol: Photography Without End” where you can explore a treasure trove of contact sheets that encompass nearly 130,000 images, beginning in 1976 and ending with Andy Warhol’s death.

Sept. 29-Jan. 6. Cantor Arts Center, 328 Lomita Drive at Museum Way, Stanford; museum.stanford.edu. Next, just down the road, PACE gallery displays “Agnes Martin/Navajo Blankets,” a grouping of pieces by the late abstract painter alongside eight Navajo chief’s blankets. While Martin didn’t necessarily take direct inspiration from the garments, the aesthetic of the indigenous peoples influenced this longtime New Mexico resident. Sept. 28Oct. 28. 229 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto; pacegallery.com. Just across the bay, visit the Oakland Museum of California to catch a glimpse of models, objects, furnishings and prototypes from the husband-and-wife duo who changed midcentury design forever with “The World of Charles and Ray Eames.” Oct. 13-Feb. 27.

1000 Oak St., Oakland; museumca.org.

Heading south, at the Skirball Cultural C 74 OCTOBER 2018

Center, catch the fascinating exhibition “Notorious RBG: The Life and Times of Ruth Bader Ginsburg,” which examines the many facets of the tough-as-nails Supreme Court associate justice: mother, lawyer, judge, women’s rights pioneer and pop culture icon. Then, take an in-depth look at the American legal system and civil rights movements of her life. Oct. 19-March 10. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A.; skirball.org. Nearby, choreographer Merce Cunningham is celebrated at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art with a multimedia performance that includes works by both Warhol and Charles Atlas (both created backdrops while the latter filmed documentary footage for the dance maker). Recordings of two dances, Changeling and Night Wandering, will be screened in an adjacent gallery.

Oct. 28-March 31. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A.; lacma.org. Finally, even further south is SCAPE, Southern California Art Projects and Exhibitions, showcasing the latest crop of elegant realism paintings from the Florence, Italy-trained painter Carin Gerard. Oct. 6-Nov. 3. 2859 E. Coast Hwy., Corona del Mar; scapesite.com. •

Clockwise from above: ANDY WARHOL acrylic and silk screen of LIZA MINNELLI, 1979. A detail of a contact sheet from a Warhol photo shoot with Minnelli, Victor Hugo and John Lennon, 1978. MAIRA KALMAN’s Ruth Bader Ginsburg, 2009.

CHARLES ATLAS’ MC9, 2012. A classic Navajo second-phase chief’s blanket, circa 1840.

Warhol’s Unidentified Photographers, 1981.

EAMES plywood sculpture, Untitled, 1943. CARIN GERARD’s Star Gardenia, 2018. An installation view of experimental molded Eames plywood chairs.

WARHOL’S UNIDENTIFIED PHOTOGRAPHERS AND LIZA MINNELLI SILK SCREEN (2): © 2018 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS INC./LICENSED BY ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK. CHAIRS: © EAMES OFFICE LLC. STAR GARDENIA: © CARIN GERARD WILSON, PHOTOGRAPHED BY WILLIAM DEWEY. PLYWOOD SCULPTURE: PHOTOGRAPH BY GRANT TAYLOR © 2018 EAMES OFFICE LLC. BLANKET: © 2018 JOSHUA BAER & COMPANY, SANTA FE. LIZA MINNELLI CONTACT SHEET: ©THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS. RUTH BADER GINSBURG, MAIRA KALMAN: © MAIRA KALMAN, COURTESY JULIE SAUL GALLERY, NEW YORK. CHARLES ATLAS, MC9: © CHARLES ATLAS, PHOTO BY GENE PITTMAN, COURTESY WALKER ART CENTER, MINNEAPOLIS.

CULTURE

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STANFORD SHOPPING CENTER Visit Stanford Shopping Center on Saturday, Oct. 13 from noon to 5 p.m. for an exclusive Style Series event with C Magazine Fashion Market Editor Rebecca Russell and style blogger Jyo Shankar, celebrating trends and styles of the season. Also enjoy special events and beauty presentations, and snap photos in the Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley style lounge. 660 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto; simon.com/mall/stanford-shopping-center.

PROMOTION

PACE GALLERY A renowned international modern and contemporary art gallery, Pace opened its permanent space in the heart of Palo Alto in 2016. Since then, Pace has presented public exhibitions by many of today’s leading artists such as Tara Donovan, David Hockney, Loie Hollowell, Louise Nevelson, Adam Pendleton and James Turrell. This month, Pace showcases the paintings of Agnes Martin alongside masterwork Navajo weavings. 229 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto, 650-561-4076; pacegallery.com.

Hudson Grace

EDITED BY LESLEY MCKENZIE

Clockwise: Inside the new MILLA CHOCOLATES. Chocolate-covered caramelized almonds with bourbon sea salt in Weck jars. Shelves lined with tubes of candied nuts and orange chips. A large box of assorted signature bonbons.

ALI GOKAY SARIOZ

Menu opener

Haute Chocolate

A MODERN SWEETS BOUTIQUE IN CULVER CITY OFFERS EYE CANDY AND MORE It feels like a vast understatement to call Milla Chocolates’ first brick-and-mortar boutique a candy shop: After all, it’s envisioned by a Whitney Museum of American Art and Sotheby’s alum, and features an elegantly stark design scheme comprising

black walnut, brass and marble. Here, artisan chocolatier and former art world maven Christine Sull Sarioz sells meticulously crafted confections (think impossibly shiny geometric chocolate bars filled with house-made praline). Sull Sarioz and

her husband, Goktug Sarioz, the brand’s creative director, have also partnered with Coffee Manufactory to serve up espressos and the like—another elevated touch at this sweet spot. 9414 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310-876-1021; millachocolates.com. • K . P.

OCTOBER 2018 C 77

MENU

DINE BY DESIGN FOUR RESTAURANTS WITH A TASTE FOR GOOD DECOR BIRDSONG’s airy SoMa space tricked out with ash wood.

BIRDSONG, SAN FRANCISCO The vision for chef Chris Bleidorn’s haven for what he calls “heritage-style” cooking in San Francisco’s SoMa was for diners to feel like they’re eating in someone’s home, which Los Angeles-based design firm Studio SAINT achieved with a central open kitchen and hearth.

They kept the building’s original 120-year-old floors and brick wall to give it a lived-in effect, while creating a custom chef’s counter made from ash under a copper island hood and hanging pots. 1085 Mission St., S.F., 415-369-9161; birdsongsf.com.

SORREL, SAN FRANCISCO Executive chef Alex Hong and operations director Colby Heiman have created a permanent home for their refined Cal-Italian pop-up in San Francisco’s Presidio Heights, sourcing walnut slab tables from Modern Millwork and handblown teardrop globe lights from Effetto Glassworks for the space they designed themselves. A green-and-white marble bar and a bounty of greenery, including plants that spill over from dramatic wooden light fixtures, evoke an indoor-outdoor backdrop for Hong’s already buzzed-about honey-lacquered duck breast, presented with a seasonal garnish such as an artichoke flower and a spray of greens. 3228 Sacramento St., S.F., 415-525-3765; sorrelrestaurant.com.

“Green design” takes on new meaning at SORREL, where plant life is abundant.

Menu bits

DAMA, LOS ANGELES DAMA’s breezy lounge evokes the golden age of Havana hotels.

NORMAN, LOS ALAMOS The restaurant at the newly reopened Hotel Skyview, located in the minuscule Santa Ynez Valley town of Los Alamos, is named for the lead character in the iconic Alfred Hitchcock horror flick Psycho. Much like the rest of the redesigned motel, the space stays true to the structure’s midcentury bones, channeling a swinging ’60s vibe with mismatched golden starburst chandeliers, plush teal banquettes, curved red-velvet booths and a baby grand piano. Diners can even order a cocktail at the restaurant’s outdoor wraparound bar, adjacent to the property’s central element: the pool.

9150 U.S. 101, Los Alamos, 805-344-0104; skyviewlosalamos.com.

C 78 OCTOBER 2018

You wouldn’t expect a restaurant that serves frozen strawberry daiquiris to have such elegant style—but the daiquiris at the latest addition to L.A.’s Fashion District are as elevated as the surroundings. Housed in what used to be a banana warehouse, Dama nails an aesthetic that designer Carolina Wicker calls “tropical chic” to complement Top Chef alum Antonia Lofaso’s Latin-inspired cuisine. There’s a sweeping patio outfitted with pale pink banquettes and wicker chairs, and in the airy dining room, standout elements include a back wall emblazoned with a leafy original print by local artist Levi Ponce. 612 E. 11th St., L.A., 213-741-0612; damafashiondistrict.com. • K . P.

BIRDSONG: HEATHER LOCKWOOD. SORREL: COURTESY OF SORREL. NORMAN: WONHO FRANK LEE. DAMA: COURTESY OF DAMA.

At NORMAN, desert chic meets 1960s mod in the brightly colored hotel restaurant and bar.

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Sand Castles

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For Deep Divers

Travel opener

KOKOMO PRIVATE ISLAND FIJI

Few places on earth compare to Fiji. Crystal clear water, pristine coral reefs and lush, untouched islands offer vacationers an otherworldly, middle-of-nowhere feel. Off the mainland and surrounded by the planet’s fourth largest coral reef, Kokomo Private Island Fiji delivers that kind of wonderland on the outer reaches of the South Pacific’s Kadavu island group. Twentyone beachfront villas are the gateway to lush rainforests, pearl-white beaches and unspoiled ocean. If you’re into scuba diving, this is your spot. Rooms from $2,500/night, all inclusive; kokomoislandfiji.com.

A seaplane arrives at KOKOMO PRIVATE ISLAND FIJI.

OCTOBER 2018 C 81

For Wellness Junkies Perched on a sacred limestone cliff on the island’s southernmost tip, Six Senses Uluwatu, Bali is pure bliss. Located near the famous Uluwatu Temple and a world-class surf break, the eco-resort envelops guests in a tranquil, palm-fringed world designed for balance and restoration, via en suite soaking tubs with Indian Ocean views and an unparalleled wellnessfocused spa program. Local ingredients are at the core of the dining experience at Crudo and at Rocka’s farm-to-fork chef’s table. Surf, dive, heli-tour, go for a water purification ritual or just relax. Rooms from $500/night; sixsenses.com.

Rocka restaurant at SIX SENSES ULUWATU, BALI. Right: Tostada with cold smoked-andcured catch of the day.

The Greco-Moorish architecture at BELMOND CAP JULUCA.

For Adventurers If an escape to East Africa’s secluded archipelago is in order, Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island is the ultimate hideaway. Each of the 71 bungalows, villas and residences boasts a private pool, beach access and a pared-down aesthetic. There’s a family-friendly grill and raw bar, a poolside bar and a take-out deli for impromptu picnics, plus all stripes of adventure, from fly-fishing, kayaking and scuba diving to nature trekking around the island’s undisturbed landscape. Rooms from about $920/night; fourseasons.com.

Travel turn For Pool People

A private pool cabana at the FOUR SEASONS RESORT SEYCHELLES AT DESROCHES ISLAND. Left: Organic ingredients from the Circle of Connection Spa.

For Epicureans On a prized patch of land that once housed the beach cottage of Queen Lili’uokalani, Hawaii’s last reigning monarch, Alohilani Resort Waikiki Beach is an oceanfront oasis. In an area known for elevated digs, the property ups the ante as a home base for two Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto eateries: Momosan, a ramen restaurant and beer garden concept, and Morimoto Asia, the most desired table in town. Guest rooms have private lanais and Pacific views—enhanced by the resort’s coastline panorama.

The pool deck is the perfect place to slide up to Swell Bar. And not to be overlooked is The Oceanarium, a 280,000-gallon saltwater home to more than 1,000 indigenous sea creatures. Rooms from $289/night; alohilaniresort.com. M . B.

C 82 OCTOBER 2018

Everyone loves a comeback story—especially one that ends in Anguilla with white-washed villas wrapped in bougainvillea, on a spread of powdery sand and turquoise water. A jewel in the Caribbean’s Lesser Antilles, Belmond Cap Juluca reopens in December, following a top-to-bottom renovation of 71 rooms and 42 suites, including private pool suites and villas. With an infinity pool overlooking Maundays Bay, guests can post up at The Cap Shack with a rum punch, snorkel or lounge at the shore. Rooms from $725/night; belmond.com.

Cabanas abut reflecting pools at ALOHILANI RESORT WAIKIKI BEACH’s Swell Pool & Bar.

SIX SENSES (2): SIX SENSES HOTELS RESORTS SPAS. FOUR SEASONS (2): KEN SEET/FOUR SEASONS. BELMOND: COURTESY OF BELMOND CAP JULUCA. ALOHILANI: MICHAEL KLEINBERG.

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The Lowell

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Pre-Well - dover

The L.A.-based fashion designers featured at DOVER STREET MARKET LOS ANGELES (from left): KURT NARMORE of NOON GOONS, ELI RUSSELL, SHANNON NATAF of NATAF JOAILLERIE, TOM BINNS, SOPHIE BUHAI, and SCOTT TEPPER of IGNORED PRAYERS.

HAIR AND MAKEUP: SAMANTHA FRYLING AT ART DEPARTMENT USING ORIBE AND GLOSSIER.

Block Party

LOS ANGELES’ FASHION STOCK RISES TO NEW HEIGHTS WITH THE OPENING OF AVANTGARDE RETAIL INCUBATOR DOVER STREET MARKET

Pre-Well - dover

WRITTEN BY EVELYN CROWLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAINER HOSCH

One afternoon in late July, six Los Angeles fashion designers gather outside an Arts District construction site. The occasion? Dover Street Market, the international emporium of high-concept cool, is opening on that very spot in October, and their homegrown labels will be among its offerings.

“A lot of us kind of grew up together, so it’s fun to be in the same place,” says jewelry designer Shannon Nataf. “L.A. needs a Dover Street—there are so many creative people here who are ready and excited to see what [Dover Street Market] does.”

Even the most jaded shopper will agree that this new outpost is something special. Rei Kawakubo, the enigmatic designer behind the lauded Japanese label Comme des Garçons, and Adrian Joffe, her husband and president of Comme des Garçons International, opened the first Dover Street Market in London in 2004, determined to break all retail rules. Their North Star was Kawakubo’s concept of “beautiful chaos,” the synergy that sparks

OCTOBER 2018 C 85

there are Dover Street Markets in New York, Beijing, Ginza and Singapore.

Kawakubo has designed each location herself and L.A. is no exception. The sprawling 19,500-square-foot, single-level space consists of two perpendicular concrete buildings accessible by a doorway.

As always, there’s a showstopping centerpiece—in New York, it’s a glass elevator, in London, a spiral staircase. Here, it’s the hut: a sculptural interpretation of the shedlike structure that is the brand’s logo, rendered in wooden planks and corrugated metal panels and scaled to

massive proportions. “There are actually two of them—pure white,” says Joffe by phone. “They’ll pierce through the wall and out the other side.” Luxury partners, such as Balenciaga, Maison Margiela and Gucci, will be given individualized spaces to kit out while Kawakubo will decorate the rest of the store’s layout and interior. “There [aren’t] many places my collection can be,” says L.A.’s Tom Binns, who refers to his exuberant one-of-a-kind pieces as “un-jewelry.” “It should be worn by people who are very cultured, and Dover Street Market has that audience.”

Pre-Well - dover

when creative forces collide. In practice, this meant a shop floor where directional edits of Balenciaga and Gucci mingle with exclusive Nike collaborations, and flashy streetwear shares shelf space with austere conceptual pieces and locally made wares. Sprinkled throughout is a healthy dose of Comme des Garçons, of course, and their offshoot lines such as Play (and Play Converse), Beatles CDG and CDG Rose Bakery.

The formula—like most everything Kawakubo touches—was a success. “They understand avant-garde, but they also understand what the kids are wearing,” L.A. jewelry designer Sophie Buhai explains. Today, in addition to London,

C 86 OCTOBER 2018

DSM L.A. EXTERIOR: RAINER HOSCH. JOFFE PORTRAIT: THOMAS LOHR, COURTESY OF DOVER STREET MARKET. DSM LONDON INTERIOR: COURTESY OF DOVER STREET MARKET.

Clockwise: The unfinished exterior of the multibrand store in the Arts District.

DSM London, featuring RAF SIMONS. ADRIAN JOFFE, president of COMME DES GARÇONS INTERNATIONAL.

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“THEY UNDERSTAND AVANT‑GARDE, BUT THEY ALSO UNDERSTAND WHAT THE KIDS ARE WEARING.” Pre-Well —SOPHIE BUHAI

the SoCal surf- and skate-inspired menswear label Noon Goons. “It’s a major honor to be chosen,” adds L.A.’s Scott Tepper, the owner of cult graphic tee label Ignored Prayers, whose line, like the other designers at the shoot, is carried at multiple Dover Street locations. Joffe also tapped filmmaker Rose Schlossberg (granddaughter of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis) as Dover Street L.A.’s correspondent, covering both instore happenings and the city’s larger arts and culture scene through short films.

“They help give a platform to people they believe in,” says Eli Russell Linnetz, a creative director for the likes of Kanye West and Lady Gaga who’s been given carte blanche to merchandise a special section of the store.

Not surprisingly, Dover Street is often credited as a pioneer of the experiential store-as-cultural hub model that’s proven a worthy adversary to the convenience of e-commerce. Artists are regularly commissioned to create in-store installations

C 88 OCTOBER 2018

(Narmore is planning one for L.A. in November); there are designated spaces for hosting events; even the in-store café (Paris’ famed Rose Bakery) is designed to encourage lingering. “It’s all about community,” says Joffe. “For our kind of fashion, which values the importance of creation, of moving things forward, people need to come together and interact.”

Similar logic played into Kawakubo’s decision to bring Dover Street to Los Angeles in the first place. “L.A. is basically our biggest U.S. market outside [of] New York.

However, it never felt like the right time,” explains Joffe. “But now we like the energy that’s happening. People seem [keener] about art and creation. More of our creative friends are moving here. And— not to get too political—it’s a freer place.”

- dover Last November, while Kawakubo and Joffe were in town finalizing the building plans, Joffe Googled “the 10 weirdest stores in L.A.” “We visited about half of them,” he laughs. “Some were kind of dodgy, but they were interesting. People were doing their own thing. And I think Rei really liked that.”

606-608 Imperial St., L.A., 310-427-7610; losangeles.doverstreetmarket.com. •

Clockwise from top: SOPHIE BUHAI Demi Onyx earring, $475.

Rose Bakery inside DSM New York.

DSM Singapore featuring COMME DES GARÇONS. NATAF JOAILLERIE Elevation I rings, $600, and Elevation IV ring (far right), $3,200. TOM BINNS Girl Thing necklace, $18,000. NOON GOONS No Way hoodie, $300.

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CHRISTY TURLINGTON BURNS wearing a GIVENCHY dress, similar styles available, and JENNIFER MEYER earrings, $1,075.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: PAMELA HANSON. CREATIVE AND FASHION DIRECTION: ALISON EDMOND. HAIR: MIKI AT MARIE ROBINSON SALON. MAKEUP: FULVIA FAROLFI FOR CHANEL. FASHION ASSISTANT: SHEA DASPIN. PRODUCTION: JENNY LANDEY PRODUCTIONS + LOCATIONS: JENNYLANDEYPRODUCTIONS.COM. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.118.

Feature opener

WHAT DRIVES CHRISTY TURLINGTON BURNS

2018

INSIDE FRANK GEHRY’S L.A. CONTROL CENTER

OCTOBER

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Frank Gehry ON A VISIT TO HIS PLAYA VISTA HEADQUARTERS, AMERICA’S MOST FAMOUS ARCHITECT REVEALS THE PLANS FOR Pre-Well - gehry HIS BOLDEST PROJECT YET: L.A.

Has

the

Answer

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAM FROST WRITTEN BY PETER DAVIS At 89, Frank Gehry is a superhero in the world of architecture, design and sculpture. Yet, using the F-bomb to make his point, Gehry has publicly denounced the label “starchitect.” He loathes the term.

He sees himself as a regular guy, albeit one who has revolutionized his industry.

Acclaimed late architect Philip Johnson spoke for many when he called Gehry “the greatest architect we have today.” If further proof were needed, here’s the ultimate confirmation: Gehry voiced his own character on The Simpsons in 2005, lampooning himself with an alter ego who drew inspiration for

C 92 OCTOBER 2018

a new building from a crumpled ball of paper on the ground.

The icon’s star power shows no signs of dimming as he approaches his ninth decade. Small in stature and unassuming in a Nike T-shirt and casual pants when he shows up to work at the massive, warehouse-style headquarters of Gehry Partners in Playa Vista, he is many things at once: sweetly humble with a childlike curiosity that makes him seem a decade younger, and also brave and often brash, offering his opinion with no regrets. Sitting on a plywood chair of his own design, he’s soft-spoken—except when excitedly

Pre-Well - gehry

FRANK GEHRY, 2018.

CREDITS

Pre-Well - gehry

A Gehry model for the LUMA FOUNDATION in Arles, France. Below: A detail of a model of Gehry’s private residence in Santa Monica. Opposite: A Gehry model of the NATIONALE-NEDERLANDEN building (or the “Dancing House”) on the Rašínovo nábřeží in Prague.

“BEING GREEN, LOW-COST [HOUSING]— Pre-Well - gehry ALL OF THOSE THINGS ARE TECHNICAL ISSUES AND SOCIAL ISSUES.” holding forth on President Donald Trump (“he’s a nutcase”) or the red tape wrapped around green living (“being green, low-cost [housing]—all of those things are technical issues and social issues”). His personality not only fills the room, it amplifies it.

Gehry’s second-floor office, stocked with art, design and architecture books, overlooks a sea of employees and hundreds of models of iconic buildings he has designed (Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles and Spain’s Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, to name just a couple) and those he is in the midst of working on. As he leans over the railing and looks out at the workspace, his slight hunch vanishes and he stands tall, like a ruler overseeing his empire.

With a mind that is always racing, it’s almost impossible for the architect to stay idle. Listening to live classical music and sailing are two of the only ways he can slow down. He religiously goes to the

office six days a week, enjoying Saturdays the most. “I like hanging out here then because it’s quiet and a few stragglers want to play,” he says sounding more like a kid who’s excited about a video game.

These days, there’s a lot on the drawing board. One of his most ambitious and challenging projects is his vision for the

L.A. River, which has the potential to turn a 51-mile stretch of waterway into a public space that could become the city’s very own Central Park. The project has been stop-and-go from the start and Gehry is not in it for a paycheck. “This is just pure philanthropy,” he stresses, tapping a finger on the table. “I’m a volunteer.”

After observing the success of Manhattan’s High Line, which transformed a rusty elevated freight rail line into a heavily trafficked garden walkway, Gehry’s initial proposal is to create a 3-mile park on a platform over the river channel that runs through the communities around South Gate. Over the past few years, he met with the mayors of all the neighboring communities to get them on board.

“No one had done that,” he says proudly.

“Once they knew they were being thought of as partners in crime, they stepped up and wanted to play. If we do it right, the stars will align.”

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Barcelona, 1992

Prague, 1996

Gehry’s decadeslong obsession with fish has never been bolder than with the construction of the golden steel mesh Olympic Fish Pavilion he created for the ’92 Olympic Village in Barcelona. The fish sits atop a casino.

The riverfront offices of the Dutch insurance company NationaleNederlanden are known as the “Dancing House” or “Fred and Ginger” due to the pair of towers that appear to be locked in a kind of waltz.

A fervent and generous philanthropist, Gehry envisions the L.A. River, which is owned by the county, as a way to heal and breathe life into neglected and poor neighborhoods. “The river goes through a lot of neighborhoods where there is no open space, where the kids are not getting good playgrounds and they are underprivileged—and their lifespan is less because of it,” he says. “You combine that with the 710 freeway and the fumes and you have a real mess from a public health standpoint.” Gehry’s proposal for the 3-mile section will probably not only benefit the locals, it will add to the cultural landscape of the city as a whole. He’s talking to the Los Angeles County Museum of Art about installing an outpost there, as well as low-cost housing builders who are interested in becoming involved; Youth Orchestra Los Angeles wants in, too.

“If you build a YOLA center in South Gate or along the river, you would recruit the musicians, the kids from the neighborhood; they would all be local. It doesn’t have to be a concert hall, but it would be a great venue,” says Gehry, who also designed the new 25,000-square-foot Judith and Thomas L. Beckmen YOLA Center in Inglewood (construction is slated to begin next year).

Gehry, a father of four, has always been dedicated to education, starting decades ago when he’d volunteer at elementary schools, mostly in Venice and Downtown.

He would haul in cardboard boxes and paint, then instruct the students to build a city. “Once they started, they got into it.

I’d say in about a half an hour, I had them in. We would sort of simulate a city and [talk] about what the city was all about.

Once I got their attention, you could talk about civics, who runs the city, art—you could talk about everything. It was wide open. You just needed to get them off this rigid school curriculum,” he says.

Today, Gehry is committed to Turnaround Arts, an organization started by

saving energy than we will ever realize on the return,” Gehry says. “I wanted to see how nuts it got and where it could go…to see what makes sense in the future.”

He says he doesn’t believe in the LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) program, which is the most widely used green building rating system on the planet. “Some of them work, some of them don’t,” he says, shaking his head, implying that some buildings deserve to be cited for being energyefficient, whereas others are sort of faking it to get a LEED certificate. “That’s become a mantle, and you buy [an LEED house] and you get a star and you’re free.” Gehry grimaces at the idea of not being fully committed to going green, no matter what the cost. “I’ve always felt someone is making money off that game of giving certification.”

He also struggles with the economic hurdles of building low-cost housing and new schools, two issues that matter deeply to him. “If you’re running a business office, you can’t afford to do them,” he laments with a shrug. “So you have to do them as philanthropy. Up until recently, I couldn’t afford that. Now I can do it, and I’m doing it quite a bit. The developer [Thomas] Safran is an angel in that department. He’s the guy I want to work with on the L.A. River. We should all be doing it,” he declares, a call for the world to support low-cost housing projects.

The lack of feasible low-cost housing and green living leads Gehry to the current Trump administration. He sits up straighter, as if addressing an audience.

“I have spoken up,” he declares. “I do know the man who is president. I’ve

“I’VE ALWAYS THOUGHT THAT Pre-Well - gehry ARCHITECTURE WAS AN ART, HISTORICALLY. [BUT] I NEVER WANTED TO CLAIM THAT.”

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Michelle Obama in 2011 to bring arts education to underprivileged schools.

Gehry co-founded the nonprofit’s dedicated California branch in 2014. “[Turnaround Arts invests] $100,000 per year, per school,” he explains before adding with a big sly grin, “I got [Mark] Zuckerberg to pledge $100,000.”

The architect is equally passionate about green living. His new house in Santa Monica is nearly off-grid. “We [he and wife Berta Isabel Aguilera] have nine geothermal wells. We spent more money

OLYMPIC FISH PAVILION, BIOMUSEO, NATIONALE-NEDERLANDEN, WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL (4): IMAGES PROVIDED BY GEHRY PARTNERS LLP. GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM BILBAO: © SYDNEY POLLACK.

Gehry’s Greatest Hits

Bilbao, 1997

Los Angeles, 2003

Panama City, 2014

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao stands next to the Nervión River.

Hailed by critics, it was inaugurated by King Juan Carlos I. Rejuvenating the city’s hurting economy, the success of the museum became known as the “Bilbao Effect.”

Located in DTLA, the Walt Disney Concert Hall is home to the Los Angeles Philharmonic.

The $274 million project (the garage alone cost $110 million) has an exterior made of stainless steel with a matte finish.

Focused on the natural history of Panama, Biomuseo is Gehry’s most colorful project.

Set by the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal, the museum has become a major tourist attraction and breathed new life into the city.

met him. I have no idea where this ends.

But it’s scary. It’s really scary. What’s scary is how many people support him.”

He pauses and rubs his chin, his eyes closing for a few seconds. “He’d be better as an artist. He could make things, be outrageous and be a positive force that way. We could call him ‘Trump L’Oeil.’”

Gehry understands the challenges of growing up in poverty firsthand. He was born Ephraim Owen Goldberg in Toronto, and changed his name to avoid antiSemitism. When asked about his childhood, he responds, “That’s not a nice story,” before elaborating. “My father lost everything. He didn’t have that much, but whatever he had, he lost. His brother was driving to California and [his family] scooped him up and he came out here.

We were really poor. We lived on Ninth Street downtown, near the [food] pantry.”

As a teenager, Gehry found a job as a truck driver. “[Those were] rough times. Somehow we made it out. I’ve been here since ’47. Now it’s home.”

He attended the University of Southern California on a scholarship, where he studied architecture and flourished. The architecture school was then in the same building as the art department and Gehry bonded with the art students more than his fellow classmates, who he found to be rigid in their ideology.

In 1964, when he did one of his first buildings on his own (a residence and studio for graphic artist Lou Danziger on Melrose Avenue), he met the then-famous artist Ed Moses, who was a friend of Danziger’s and just happened to be at the construction site. Moses invited Gehry into his rarefied world of artists. He immediately felt at home.

“The architects were saying things that didn’t make any sense to me,” Gehry remembers of the late ’60s. “They were talking about rules of engagement…it had to be this way and if you didn’t straighten this wall, it would not be minimal enough, not pure enough. They were talking all that funny stuff which made no sense at all.”

So instead Gehry hung around the likes of Ed Ruscha, Larry Bell, Chris Burden and Jasper Johns. “I’ve always thought that architecture was an art, historically. [But] I never wanted to claim that. There was such a stigma attached to it. ‘I’m an artist’—that’s saying I’m better than you…When anybody asked what I was doing, I said, ‘I’m an architect.’ It was kind of a protective coating, so I didn’t have to get into the discussion. But I hung out with the people I loved and I felt more comfortable with them and vice versa—they Continued on p.118

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A maquette for Bear With Us, Gehry’s life-size bear sculpture (along with a stainless steel sample), next to a new fish lamp design for a hanging sculpture for a collector in Beijing.

SPECIAL THANKS Deborah McLeod, director of Gagosian Beverly Hills.

MIU MIU coat, $4,395.

JENNIFER MEYER earrings (seen throughout), $1,075.

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AFTER 30 YEARS AS ONE OF FASHION’S MOST IN-DEMAND MODELS, CHRISTY TURLINGTON BURNS COULD STILL BE DOMINATING THE CATWALKS AND CAMPAIGNS. INSTEAD, IT’S THIS MOTHER OF TWO’S AMBITION TO MAKE CHILDBIRTH SAFER THAT KEEPS HER IN THE SPOTLIGHT

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAMELA HANSON CREATIVE AND FASHION DIRECTION BY ALISON EDMOND WRITTEN BY JANE LARKWORTHY OCTOBER 2018 C 99

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GUCCI jacket, $3,700, and pants, $1,200. JENNIFER MEYER rings (seen throughout), $250-$500.

Opposite: BOTTEGA VENETA jacket, $2,580, and pants, $1,180.

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PRADA top, $1,060, and skirt, $2,340.

Christy Turlington Burns has just completed an important rite of passage: deciding on the right high school for her teenage daughter. “We let her choose,” she explains of her eldest child, Grace, 14. “I said, ‘We will support whatever choice you make.’ We wanted her to go through the process, to experience that feeling. Someone said to me, ‘That’s big parenting stuff…Keep doing it.’”

“Phew,” she laughs, wiping her forehead then waving her finger. “Check!”

We meet at the New York City headquarters of Every Mother Counts, the foundation Turlington Burns founded in 2010 dedicated to making pregnancy and childbirth safer for all mothers the world over. There are a few women milling about in the reception area, wearing name badges and waiting for a happy hour that EMC is hosting for the New York Marathon runners supporting the cause.

When Turlington Burns appears from a conference room, she is wearing a sleeveless Sea shirtdress and K. Jacques sandals, her hair pulled back haphazardly the way most women do on hot and sticky Manhattan summer days.

She apologizes for keeping me waiting even though she is not running late (I was early). When she hugs me hello she reminds me that we had met ages ago at the launch of her skincare line, Sundari, which she has since left. Wait a minute.

She’s the supermodel. She’s not supposed to remember me. While some of the supermodels of her generation built a reputation on being intimidating, Christy Turlington Burns is anything but.

Her face is one of the most recognized in the world. A runway favorite at Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Versace in the ’80s and ’90s, her serene visage was used in two Calvin Klein Eternity fragrance campaigns, decades apart. And who can forget her starring role in George Michael’s “Freedom! ’90” music video alongside her contemporary supes who to this day don’t require surnames—Cindy, Naomi, Linda and Tatjana. Despite gracing 500plus magazine covers for more than three decades, Turlington Burns has a different primary purpose now. “Running a foundation and raising a family forces you to prioritize. You can’t do everything at the same time,” she says. “Someone once told me, ‘You have to sequence.’ So, for

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me, that means family, EMC, and I guess I take the last sliver!”

Since the beginning, the foundation has raised more than $17 million, and has expanded its grant portfolio to include Bangladesh, Guatemala, Haiti, India, Tanzania, Uganda and the United States. And while the number of annual deaths related to pregnancy complications has dropped worldwide, according to UNICEF, from 532,000 in 1990 to 303,000 in 2015, the rate of maternal mortality stateside is actually on the rise, as analyzed by the Global Burden of Disease. Turlington Burns has made it her mission to change that, and to continue to decrease the global number further.

die from pregnancy and childbirth than in any other developed country.

“California was a good choice for a lot of reasons, mostly because it’s been kind of an example for other states as to what to do,” explains Turlington Burns. “They have this sort of report card system for hospitals, and they also have Medi-Cal, where, if you’re pregnant, you’re eligible [for care] regardless of your situation. We wanted to do something around postpartum care, and we wanted to do something with the Latina population. We looked at so many locations—Northern California, Southern California—and then, we were like, ‘No. Central Valley.’” The grandpar-

After recovering from her problematic first delivery, Turlington Burns began running distance races in 2011 as a way to raise awareness and funds for the millions of women around the world who live great distances from trained providers or medical facilities, and for whom transportation is extremely limited and cost prohibitive.

In November, she will return to her native NorCal to debut the film and to participate in the Golden Gate Half Marathon—her 12th half-marathon to date.

“Running is, in so many ways, like childbirth,” she says. “Many women can’t easily get to their doctors who are often miles and miles away.”

“MY SISTERS WERE KIND OF GRUMPY WHEN SOMEONE TOOK A PICTURE...I WAS A BIT OF A HAM.” The model turned campaigner came close to losing her own life when she suffered a hemorrhage from complications after giving birth to Grace. Had she not received the proper care at the Birthing Center at Saint Luke’s-Roosevelt (now Mount Sinai West), the experience could have proved fatal. Every Mother Counts was born out of that trauma, with the goal of lowering the maternal mortality rate worldwide by focusing on three key factors: access, education and community engagement.

“We’re thinking about the whole package, but we’re also one of the only organizations that focuses on the mother,” she says. “Mom is not just a vessel, she’s not just a means to an end. We’re trying to focus on postpartum care and how critical the ‘fourth trimester’ is.”

Out in October, Giving Birth in America: California is the fifth installment of the documentary series executive produced by Turlington Burns and filmmaker Clancy McCarty, which will be distributed in partnership with CNN. Set in Watsonville, Central California, the film follows an immigrant farmworker from Mexico who is expecting her third child, as she progresses through pregnancy and childbirth. The ongoing series examines the issues that have contributed to the maternal health crisis in the United States, where, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, more women

ents of Cristina Gamboa, an obstetrician interviewed in the film, were Mexican immigrants, and she studied medicine to return to serve a community similar to the one she grew up in. “We just fell in love with the clinic [Salud Para La Gente] because of her,” Turlington Burns says.

Turlington Burns is herself the child of an immigrant: Her mother, Maria Elizabeth, was born in El Salvador and moved to the States at the age of 8. She and Turlington Burns’ father, Dwain, an airline pilot, raised their three girls in Danville, Calif. The middle child, she didn’t grow up wanting to be a model, but an agent spotted her at age 13 in Miami, where her family had relocated for a few years, and she began modeling soon after.

“My sisters were always kind of grumpy when someone took a picture of us,” Turlington Burns remembers with a smile.

“But I was always a bit of a ham.”

Five years later, she moved to New York to pursue her career. At 25, she put modeling on hold to attend New York University, where she graduated cum laude with a bachelor’s degree in philosophy and comparative religion. In the early aughts, she launched two businesses—Nuala, a yoga clothing line with Puma, and the aforementioned Sundari skincare company. Around that same time, she met Edward Burns, an actor-filmmaker whose directorial features include Sidewalks of New York. They wed in San Francisco in 2003, while she was pregnant with their first child.

Turlington Burns has learned from firsthand experience that the postpartum period is a crucial time for not only mother-child bonding, but also as a time for mothers to set their own personal goals.

“I breastfed for a long time with both kids [her son, Finn, is 12], so I had to kind of sit still for a while, and so many of my creative juices were flowing, and that was when I started really plotting,” she remembers. “As a society, we don’t think of that time as a period of nurturing ideas, but for a lot of women in business today, especially those who are in this mommy space, their ideas came from having children. And I think those are the kinds of ways that businesses are being created more and more.”

Her own foundation, approaching its 10th anniversary, is what Turlington Burns is focused on nurturing, much like a mindful parent.

“We’re constantly asking ourselves how we could do better,” she says.

“We’re bringing voices from the decisionmaking side, the policy-making side, the providers and the patients, and putting them all on an equal platform where there can be a dialogue. I’m just trying to make sure that, as a founder, I can lead us in the right direction and bring the right people in at the right time.”

When it comes to modeling, she certainly seems to have figured it out. She believes her annual tally of work falls somewhere between 15 and 20 days, with the inclination to say “yes” often

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CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC jacket, $1,950, and skirt, $990.

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MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION sweater, $1,150, and shirt, $695.

SKIN WORLDWIDE briefs, $49.

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hinging on two fundamental questions: Can I work with a friend? (Case in point, this story was shot by photographer Pamela Hanson, whom Turlington Burns describes as a “family member.”)

And, can it benefit my cause? Take H&M, who tapped Turlington Burns to be the model for its 2018 Conscious Exclusive collection, and as part of the collaboration, donated to Every Mother Counts.

“Almost every company that I work with, whether it’s a longtime relationship like Calvin Klein or Maybelline, or even the newer ones like H&M, they know that I’m going to want EMC to be a part of it. I [also] think brands are looking for people who have initiatives that their customers would want to learn more about,” she says. “In some instances, it’s a really natural fit. In others, it’s forced.

And when it feels forced is when I don’t do it. I feel lucky. I’m turning 50, and I can still pick and choose.”

Not that her 20-something self would have foreseen entering her fifth decade as the face of fashion and beauty brands.

“I used to think, ‘I will never be Lauren Hutton.’ And I’m not her, of course, but I now recognize there’s a value in [all kinds of age diversity], and I also think it’s good for people to see women who are at different ages in their lives who aren’t manipulating themselves.”

Going under the knife remains a hard no. “You know how we look back at different periods and observe what was considered beautiful?” she says, cocking her head. “We look at the [ancient] Egyptians and think, ‘Wow. I can see how the long neck was considered a thing of beauty.’ But looking back at this time? Everyone’s going to say, ‘What the hell were these people thinking?’ I like a Georgia O’Keeffe way of aging.” •

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BALENCIAGA sweater, $1,790, and scarf, $1,250.

Hair by MIKI at Marie Robinson Salon. Makeup

by FULVIA FAROLFI for Chanel. Fashion assistant: SHEA DASPIN. Produced on location by JENNY LANDEY PRODUCTIONS + LOCATIONS: jennylandeyproductions.com.

Makeup: CHANEL Palette Essentielle, $60, Stylo Sourcils Waterproof eyebrow pencil, $33, Inimitable mascara, $32, and Les Beiges Healthy Glow lip balm, $20.

SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.118.

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Poolside at CHATEAU MARMONT (from left): KELVIN HARRISON JR., 24, HUGHIE NEWMAN, 17, SELMA SPATH, 19, SOPHIE SMITH, 19, WEST ADLER, 17, and BELLA NEWMAN, 19.

Clothing throughout by GUCCI. See Shopping Guide, p.118, for details.

and the

Gang

GEN Z PHOTOGRAPHER BELLA NEWMAN SNAPS HER CREATIVE CONTEMPORARIES IN GUCCI’S CHATEAU MARMONT-INSPIRED RESORT COLLECTION AT THE HALLOWED HOTEL

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CREATIVE AND FASHION DIRECTION BY ALISON EDMOND

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“IT FEELS LIKE WE’RE ALL ALESSANDRO’S YOUTH,” SAYS ACTOR KELVIN Feature - roth HARRISON JR.

Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele memorialized a visit to the Chateau Marmont a couple of years ago by posting a single image to Instagram: its aging courtyard fountain. Inspired by the historic property, Michele created a series of pieces in Gucci’s Resort 2019 collection depicting graphics of Pan, the Greek god of the wild (complete with goat horns) who presides over the Chateau’s spout of water. After a theatrical premiere of the resortwear inside a Roman necropolis in the French city of Arles earlier this year, C asked photographer Bella Newman to capture the jackets, sweatshirts, bags and trench coats emblazoned with the dancing faun and the name of Sunset Boulevard’s most storied hotel (rendered in a vaguely astrological font), on the grounds of the property.

On set with Newman as she trains her lens on her band of creative friends dressed in Michele’s looks, the photographer observes: “[The Chateau] is the quintessential old Hollywood place that still manages to remain what it is and doesn’t change to fit with the present. It hasn’t really been corrupted.” The Pennsylvania-born photographer who, at 19, has already shot reportage stories and portraits for both Vogue and Time while studying film at New York University (she was discovered via Instagram while in high school), counts the hotel’s lounge as her favorite late-night lair on the West Coast.

Like the Chateau itself, Michele’s designs fearlessly adhere to a moreis-more bohemian sensibility, replete with his trademark vintage-inspired androgyny that somehow manages to stay fresh season after season. Once again, Old World lace, velvets and brocades coalesce in a collection worthy of a French chateau built on a Hollywood hill in 1929.

“It feels like we’re all Alessandro’s youth,” says the 12 Years a Slave, Mudbound and just-released Monsters and Men actor Kelvin Harrison Jr., 24, modeling a tracksuit embellished with Michele’s trademark tiger.

In a pose reminiscent of Pan looking on from his fountain perch, Newman takes the final shot of the day, pronouncing, “I like to make people seem like divine creatures.”• ELIZABETH VARNELL

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“[CHATEAU MARMONT] IS THE QUINTESSENTIAL Feature - roth OLD HOLLYWOOD PLACE THAT STILL MANAGES TO REMAIN WHAT IT IS AND DOESN’T CHANGE TO FIT WITH THE PRESENT.”

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Hair by PETE LAMDEN. Makeup by ALEXA HERNANDEZ at Forward Artists using Clé de Peau. Photographed at CHATEAU MARMONT.

FRANK GEHRY HAS THE ANSWER CONTINUED FROM P.97

included me in everything. They all think of me as one of the artists.”

Larry Gagosian, Gehry’s longtime friend and art dealer, understands why Gehry is so attracted to painters and sculptors and not other architects. “Architects are extremely competitive,” he says. “It would be odd for all your best friends to be architects. I think he’s more comfortable with artists because it’s more refreshing to be around people who aren’t dealing with the same stuff you’re dealing with at the same time.”

Gehry’s most famous buildings—the NationaleNederlanden Building (aka “Dancing House”) in Prague, the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, the Walt Disney Concert Hall and the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao—are really large-scale, functional sculptures crafted from unexpected, visually exciting materials such as corrugated metal, chain-link fencing and titanium. The Guggenheim Bilbao was so successful in reviving the Basque city, that the building’s international draw has become known as the “Bilbao Effect.” Gehry remembers the first time he saw his nearly completed project in Bilbao. “It scared the s--out of me,” he confesses, and then laughs. “I came over the hill. I saw it there and I thought, ‘Oh, my God. What have I done to these poor people?’ I really did. There’s a kind of embarrassment—it’s your ego thing and you’re imposing it.” He pauses and smirks.

“I got over it.”

Gehry’s work extends beyond the realms of philanthrophy and architecture. Take his signature Fish Lamps, which have been exhibited around the globe since the 1980s, including at Gagosian galleries. He became obsessed with fish years ago when he gave a talk on the East Coast. “It was a time when architects were turning to historicism and they were calling it postmodernism. And I was upset with that.

It was like a disease. Everyone did it in what seemed like a week,” he recalls without a trace of irony. “I said, ‘Greek temples are anthropomorphic. Fish are [hundreds of millions of] years before that, before man. Why don’t we get excited about fish?’ And after that talk, it stayed in my head and I started drawing fish and I made the Fish Lamps.”

The lamps—made with Formica ColorCore and steel frames on wooden bases—first gained momentum at a party with a lot of heavy hitters, after someone unwrapped one of the pieces as a gift. The next morning, S.I. Newhouse called asking to buy one, as did Philip Johnson and Jasper Johns. “It was hilarious. I didn’t know what to do with all this. Larry Gagosian was around and I showed him this stuff. And Larry, God bless him, said, ‘Make a bunch of them and I’ll show it.’ And he did and he sold it out in a couple of weeks—and that started it.”

Gagosian remembers that first show well. “I had a vision of displaying these in a darkened gallery space and you walk in and you see these lamps glowing in the space—I thought it would be a very seductive presentation and it certainly was,” Gagosian says.

“They are really beautiful. They’ve worn well over time, which is one of the most important tests of art.

How does it look five years later, 10 years later, 20 years later? They are as captivating now as when he first made them.”

Gagosian recently approached Gehry about doing a show of historical Fish Lamps in Paris, timed with the Fondation Louis Vuitton’s opening, but Gehry decided to make new stuff instead. He made a bear, a crocodile and a special horse for LVMH. And, of course, lots of fish, but designed in new ways.

Though he has an iPhone by his side and an Apple

C 118 OCTOBER 2018

Watch strapped to his wrist, Gehry prefers to avoid computers and starts projects by sketching, often at home, then building countless models with his team.

He has a 60,000-square-foot warehouse in Carson filled with models. “The Getty just acquired a bunch of stuff from us,” he says with relief. “We still have more. I don’t know what to do with it.” Gehry likes making models because it’s a way to collaborate with his team, many of them young architects. “You can feel when it’s not going right so you can derail it and start and stop and then it clicks somehow.”

“The kind of work Frank does is almost like play,” Gagosian says. “New challenges and new buildings pull him forward and energize him.” In addition to the L.A. River project and numerous other buildings, he is working on a real estate development on Grand Avenue, across from the Walt Disney Concert Hall, that will literally create a new neighborhood with lots of public space. “It was hard, because you can’t talk to developers about the art of architecture,” he groans. “It took a while. But the staggering [in securing funding and having the project approved] helped us get to know the people and feel more comfortable.

And the developers are starting to see that cultural thing, so they’re starting to look at it that way.” Like his now-iconic Disney Hall, Gehry hopes to include another concert venue in the ambitious project. Just this year, after a battle with local preservationists, his mixed-use project at 8150 Sunset Blvd. got the green light and will replace the zigzag-roofed Lytton Savings bank building, which was designed by modernist Kurt Meyer. Once again, Gehry’s vision will change the skyline of Los Angeles.

After more than an hour and a half of talking about his life and career, Gehry starts to shift in his seat.

He gets up and again leans over the iron railing that overlooks his massive, buzzing studio, walls covered with art, workers on laptops or building models. “It’s time to get back to work,” he announces, with a smile, and bolts down the stairs. •

Runover

SHOPPING GUIDE

COVER Balenciaga red-and-black wool crewneck sweater, $1,790, and red-and-black wool ribbed knit scarf, $1,250, Balenciaga, Beverly Hills, 310-854-0557.

Jennifer Meyer 18-karat white gold diamond mini triangle studs, $1,075, 18-karat white gold circle ring, $250, and 18-karat white gold diamond circle rings, $500; jennifermeyer.com.

STITCH IN TIME p.52 Edie Parker Aliza Brocade bag in Forest, $1,695; edie-parker.com. Weekend Max Mara Signature Collection Trophy Day mules by Richard Saja, $325, Weekend Max Mara, Costa Mesa, 714-754-7900.

Erdem Mathilde mules, $830; erdem.com. Rochas square frame bag in leather and brocade fabric, price upon request; rochas.com. Giorgio Armani brass tassel earrings, similar styles available, Giorgio Armani, Beverly Hills, 310-271-5555; armani.com. & Other Stories patterned clutch, $85, & Other Stories, Beverly Hills, 424-359-3218. Aquazzura Powder Puff mule 45 in black jacquard plumes, $795; aquazzura. com. Oscar de la Renta chenille jacquard small Alibi bag, $2,190, Oscar de la Renta, Costa Mesa, 714-7549044. Jimmy Choo Sonia 100 in Viola suede with silver bird embroidery pointed-toe pumps, similar colors available, Jimmy Choo, Beverly Hills, 310860-9045; jimmychoo.com. Adina Reyter Folded Fan necklace with pavé diamonds, $625; adinareyter.com. Dries Van Noten green cotton and viscose shoes, $880, Barneys New York, Beverly Hills, 310-276-4400. CH Carolina Herrera Metropolitan Insignia clutch handcrafted in satin with Ronda passementerie and beads, $2,235, Carolina Herrera, Beverly Hills, 310-276-8900.

Attico blue velvet pouch with decorations, $464; matchesfashion.com. Chloe Gosselin crepe satin pumps with buckle detail, $905; chloegosselin.com.

OCEAN STATE p.54 Aron Hirsch Omo three-charm necklace in 18-karat yellow gold with white diamond ring pendant with three detachable charms, horn with pavé diamond bail, natural shell with bezel-set white diamonds, and yellow gold shell with full white diamond coverage, $12,580; brokenenglishjewelry.com. Washed Ashore Lorelei cuff in silver, $120, washedashore.co.

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Fishbone earrings in brass and strass, $1,995, Saint Laurent, Beverly Hills, 310-271-5051; ysl.com. David Webb Octopus brooch with coral, faceted amethyst, brilliant-cut diamonds, cabochon rubies in 18-karat gold, and platinum, price upon request; davidwebb.com. Graff Wave necklace with round and pear-shaped diamonds and round sapphires, price upon request, Graff, S.F., 415-926-7000; graffdiamonds.com. Bulgari High Jewelry bracelet in 18-karat white gold with aquamarine, tanzanite, moonstone and diamonds, price upon request, Bulgari, Beverly Hills, 310-858-9216.

Aurélie Bidermann Aurélie single 18-karat-goldplated Turtle earring, $95; aureliebidermann. com. Mizuki 14-karat triple white freshwater pearl and diamond earrings with ear wire, $2,495; net-a-porter.com. Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Two Fish bracelet in 18-karat gold with sapphires, rubellites and diamonds, price upon request; tiffany.com. Gucci charm with shark tooth motif in 18-karat yellow gold, $970; gucci.com. Bibi van der Velden Mermaid 18-karat gold bangle with sterling silver, diamonds and Tahitian pearl, $7,360; bibivandervelden.com. Loquet 14-karat medium Heart ring with rainbow, anchor and rose quartz charms, $2,680; loquetlondon.com.

Buccellati cocktail pendant earrings in white gold set with diamonds, price upon request; buccellati. com. Cartier Coloratura High Jewelry ring in 18-karat white gold with opal, aquamarine beads and diamonds, price upon request, available by appointment only, Cartier, Beverly Hills, 310275-4272.

MATERNAL SUNSHINE p.91 Givenchy silver beaded black dress, similar styles available, Givenchy, Costa Mesa, 714-5452185. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat white gold diamond mini triangle studs, $1,075; jennifermeyer.com. p.98 Miu Miu multicolor tweed coat, $4,395; miumiu. com. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat white gold diamond mini triangle studs, $1,075; jennifermeyer.com. p.100 Gucci macro bird’s eye wool jacket in Avena White, $3,700, and macro bird’s eye wool pants in Avena White, $1,200. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat white gold circle ring, $250, and 18-karat white gold diamond circle rings, $500; jennifermeyer.com. p.101 Bottega Veneta Poppy wool jacket, $2,580, and Poppy wool pants, $1,180, Bottega Veneta, Beverly Hills, 310-858-6533. p.102 Prada tweed top, $1,060, and tweed skirt, $2,340, Prada, Beverly Hills, 310-278-8661. p.105 Calvin Klein 205W39NYC single-button jacket in steel blue check, $1,950, and wrap pencil skirt in steel blue check, $990, Neiman Marcus, S.F., 415-362-3900; calvinklein. com. p.106 Michael Kors Collection camel argyle cashmere sleeve tie sweater, $1,150, and camel tattersall poplin shirt, $695, Michael Kors, Beverly Hills, 310-777-8862. Skin Worldwide Aja briefs, $49; skinworldwide.com. p.108 Balenciaga red-and-black wool crewneck sweater, $1,790, and red-and-black wool ribbed knit scarf, $1,250, Balenciaga, Beverly Hills, 310-854-0557. Makeup: Chanel Palette Essentielle, $60, Stylo Sourcils Waterproof eyebrow pencil, $33, Inimitable mascara, $32, and Les Beiges Healthy Glow lip balm, $20; chanel.com.

COOL AND THE GANG p.110 From left, all wearing Gucci: Kelvin wearing jacquard Heritage jacket, $4,500, pink muslin printed shirt, $980, pink-black printed denim pants, $1,500, and sandals with gold-printed Chambre des Squelettes script, $1,150. Hughie wearing shamrock jersey jacket, $1,980, sweatshirt with Chateau Marmont and gothic flower print details, $1,100, shamrock jersey jogging pants with ribbon details, $1,380, and low-top sneakers with metal GG ornament, $870. Selma wearing Admiral tweed

jacket, $3,980, Admiral tweed dress, $2,980, brass chain belt, $890, fuchsia lace tights, $265, maxi tote bag in floral printed canvas, $2,980, and white, red, blue and green Elaphe snakeskin pumps with GG ornament with pearls, $1,290. Sophie wearing denim vest with embroidered appliqué details, $12,000, black and yellow T-shirt with Chateau Marmont print, $550, Almond Flower linen canvas skirt with all-over floral embroideries, $9,500, black felt hat with feather, $1,250, Cobra gloves, $1,750, and pink slippers with natural fur and horsebit detail, $995. West wearing Orange-Yard multicolor muslin jacket, $4,500, Crocodile-Melon Kingdom printed shirt, $980, black and red printed skinny denim pants, $1,800, and red patent leather booties, $1,250. Bella wearing vintage camel Pervinca GG printed long-sleeve parka, $4,700, white Magnolia shirt with ruffled neck and bow, $980, pink multicolor GG printed technical jersey pleated shorts, $1,980, natural straw visor, $590, and rubber-sole sandals in white leather with mesh details and crystal stones, $1,250. p.112 Clockwise from top left, all wearing Gucci: Bella wearing vintage camel Pervinca GG printed long-sleeve parka, $4,700, white Magnolia shirt with ruffled neck and bow, $980, and pink-multicolor GG printed technical jersey pleated shorts, $1,980.

Sophie wearing denim vest with all-over multicolor embroidered appliqué details, $12,000, black and yellow T-shirt with Chateau Marmont print, $550, Almond Flower linen canvas skirt with all-over floral embroideries, $9,500, black felt hat with feather, $1,250, and Cobra gloves, $1,750. Selma wearing Gardenia GG flower linen broderie anglaise dress with Chateau Marmont print, $7,200, Sand cape, $1,900, and mid-heel boots in green leather with embroidery, $2,950. Selma wearing the same outfit; medium hobo bag in light yellow crystal GG fabric with Chateau Marmont appliqué, $2,200.

Hughie wearing natural-black sweatshirt with Chateau Marmont and gothic flower print details, $1,100, coral cotton gabardine over shirt, $980, blue-multicolor printed cotton pants, $790, and low-top sneakers with metal GG, $870. Sophie wearing black-multicolor soft leather oversize biker jacket with hand-painted Gucci and mushroom details on the back, $7,500, red-black Intrigue Placé printed silk twill top with crystal and pearlembroidered Trompe-l’œil necklace appliqué on the front, $4,800, red-black Intrigue Placé printed silk twill loose pants, $1,890, natural canvas tote with drawstring closure and Laundry Chateau Marmont print, $790, and low-heel pump in black leather with studs, bow and GG detail, $1,250. Sophie wearing blue and orange shimmering jacquard dressing gown, $3,800, black felt hat with feather, $1,250, ivory tulle gloves, $490, and white leather pumps with bow with mirrored GG detail and studs, $1,150. Selma wearing dusty sage green glove nappa leather dress, $8,500, Sunkissed-Black stone-washed Chateau Marmont printed T-shirt with Flora bouquet print on the back, $550, brass chain belt as necklace, $890, and citron green lace tights, $550. Bella wearing Yard dress with pleated skirt with ruffle details on the top (sold with on-tone leather detachable GG belt), $4,980, red and green women’s elastic belt with GG buckle in green Plexiglas, $720, and mid-heel boot in green leather with embroidery, $2,590. Selma wearing Admiral tweed jacket, $3,980, Admiral tweed dress, $2,980, brass chain belt, $890, fuchsia lace tights, $265, and white, red, blue and green Elaphe snakeskin pumps with GG ornament with pearls, $1,290. Kelvin wearing jacquard Heritage jacket with embroidery details, $4,500, pink muslin printed shirt, $980, pink-black printed denim pants, $1,500, and sandals in black leather with gold printed Chambre des Squelettes script, $1,150. Kelvin and Selma each wearing same outfits. p.113 Clockwise from top left, all wearing Gucci: Kelvin wearing ivory-multicolor Flora printed tracksuit jacket with Chateau Marmont appliqué, $3,200, black-yellow T-shirt with Chateau Marmont print, $550, ivory-multicolor Flora printed tracksuit pants, $1,400, and low-top sneaker in lightblue suede, $750. Sophie wearing blackmulticolor soft leather oversize biker jacket with

hand-painted Gucci and mushroom details on the back, $7,500, red-black Intrigue Placé printed silk twill top with crystal and pearl-embroidered Trompe-l’œil necklace appliqué on the front, $4,800, red-black Intrigue Placé printed silk twill loose pants, $1,890, and low-heel pump in black leather with studs, bow and GG detail, $1,250. Hughie wearing natural-black sweatshirt with Chateau Marmont and gothic flower print details, $1,100, coral cotton gabardine over shirt, $980, bluemulticolor printed cotton pants, $790, and low-top sneakers with metal GG, $870. Hughie wearing shamrock jersey jacket, $1,980, sweatshirt with Chateau Marmont and flower details, $1,100, and shamrock jersey jogging pants with ribbon details, $1,380. Sophie wearing white leather pumps with bow with GG mirrored detail and studs, $1,150.

West wearing Sweet Pecan curly eco fur coat, $6,900, skinny denim pants with all-over sequins, $5,000, and rubber sole sandals in mixed materials and Gucci Sega detail, $890. Sophie wearing black-yellow T-shirt with Chateau Marmont print, $550, Almond Flower linen canvas skirt with all-over floral embroideries, $9,500, and Cobra gloves, $1,750. Hughie wearing same outfit. Bella wearing white Magnolia shirt with ruffled neck and bow, $980, pink-multicolor GG printed technical jersey pleated shorts, $1,980, and rubber sole sandals in white leather with mesh details and crystal stones, $1,250. Kelvin wearing jacquard Heritage jacket with embroidery details, $4,500, pink muslin printed shirt, $980, pink-black printed denim pants, $1,500, and sandals in black leather with gold printed Chambre des Squelettes script, $1,150. Sophie wearing denim vest with embroidered appliqué details, $12,000, black-yellow T-shirt with Chateau Marmont print, $550, Almond Flower linen canvas skirt with all-over floral embroideries, $9,500, black felt hat with feather, $1,250, Cobra gloves, $1,750, and pink slippers with natural fur and horsebit detail, $995. Gucci footwear as mentioned before. p.114 Clockwise from top, all wearing Gucci: Bella wearing light pink soft tweed puff coat, $2,890, light pink soft tweed skirt, $1,500, citron green lace tights, $265, black leather spherical mini shoulder bag with spikes with metal GG, $3,980, and mid-heel slingback pumps in black velvet with topaz crystals, $1,290. Hughie wearing natural-black sweatshirt with Chateau Marmont and gothic flower print details, $1,100, coral cotton gabardine over shirt, $980, and blue-multicolor printed cotton pants, $790. Sophie wearing black-multicolor soft leather oversize biker jacket with hand-painted Gucci and mushroom details on the back, $7,500, red-black Intrigue Placé printed silk twill top with crystal and pearl-embroidered necklace appliqué on the front, $4,800, red-black Intrigue Placé printed silk twill loose pants, $1,890, natural canvas tote with drawstring closure and Laundry Chateau Marmont print, $790 and low-heel pump in black leather with studs, bow and GG detail, $1,250. Selma wearing Gardenia GG flower linen broderie anglaise dress with Chateau Marmont print, $7,200, and mid-heel boots in green leather with embroidery, $2,950. Kelvin wearing ivory-multicolor Flora printed tracksuit jacket with Chateau Marmont appliqué, $3,200, black-yellow T-shirt with Chateau Marmont print, $550, ivory-multicolor Flora printed tracksuit pants, $1,400, and low-top sneaker in light blue suede, $750. West wearing Sweet Pecan eco fur coat with patch details, $6,900, classic stripe shirt, $700, skinny denim pants with all-over sequins, $5,000, and sandals in mixed materials with Gucci Sega detail, $890. p.116 Clockwise from top left, all wearing Gucci: Bella wearing light pink soft tweed puff coat, $2,890, sunkissed-black stone-washed Chateau Marmont printed T-shirt with Flora bouquet print on the back, $550, light pink soft tweed skirt, $1,500, citron green lace tights, $265, black leather spherical mini shoulder bag with spikes with metal GG, $3,980, and mid-heel slingback pumps in black velvet with topaz crystals, $1,290. Selma wearing Gardenia GG flower linen broderie anglaise dress with Chateau Marmont print, $7,200, and medium hobo bag in light yellow crystal GG fabric and

Chateau Marmont appliqué, $2,200. Bella wearing white Magnolia shirt with ruffled neck and bow, $980, and pink-multicolor GG printed technical jersey pleated shorts, $1,980. West wearing Sweet Pecan eco fur coat with patch details, $6,900, classic stripe shirt, $700, skinny denim pants with all-over sequins, $5,000, and sandals in mixed materials with Gucci Sega detail, $890. West wearing Crocodile-Melon Kingdom printed shirt, $980, black-red printed skinny denim pants, $1,800, and red patent leather booties, $1,250. Selma and Bella each wearing same outfits. Selma wearing an Admiral tweed dress, $2,980, fuchsia lace tights, $265, and white-red-blue and green Elaphe snakeskin pumps with GG ornament with pearls, $1,290. West wearing natural-red sweatshirt with Chateau Marmont and gothic flower print details, $1,100, black-red printed skinny denim pants, $1,800, and red patent leather booties, $1,250. Bella wearing Yard dress with pleated skirt with ruffle details on the top and (sold with on tone leather detachable GG belt), $4,980, red and green women’s elastic belt with GG buckle in green Plexiglas, $720, and mid-heel boot in green leather with embroidery, $2,590. Sophie wearing black-multicolor soft leather oversize biker jacket with hand-painted Gucci and mushroom details on the back, $7,500, red-black Intrigue Placé printed silk twill top with crystal and pearl-embroidered Trompe-l’œil necklace appliqué on the front, $4,800. Kelvin wearing blue and orange shimmering jacquard dressing gown, $3,800, and sandals with gold-printed Chambre des Squelettes script, $1,150. Hughie wearing shamrock jersey jacket, $1,980, sweatshirt with Chateau Marmont and flower details, $1,100, shamrock jersey jogging pants with ribbon details, $1,380, and low-top sneakers with metal GG, $870. p.117 Clockwise from top left, all wearing Gucci: Kelvin wearing jacquard Heritage jacket, $4,500, pink muslin printed shirt, $980, pink-black printed denim pants, $1,500, and sandals with gold printed Chambre des Squelettes script, $1,150. Hughie wearing bronze-brown GG flannel jacket, $4,500, orange-black-yellow vintage wool shirt, $1,700, vintage camel-black crop GG original pants with ribbon detail, $1,700, and low-top sneakers with metal GG, $870. West wearing Sweet Pecan eco fur coat with patch details, $6,900, classic stripe shirt, $700, skinny denim pants with all-over sequins, $5,000, and sandals in mixed materials with Gucci Sega detail, $890. Sophie wearing denim vest with embroidered appliqué details, $12,000, blackyellow T-shirt with Chateau Marmont print, $550, Almond Flower linen canvas skirt with all-over floral embroideries, $9,500, black felt hat with feather, $1,250, Cobra gloves, $1,750, and pink slippers with natural fur and horsebit detail, $995.

Selma wearing Gardenia GG flower linen broderie anglaise dress with Chateau Marmont print, $7,200, medium hobo bag in light yellow crystal GG fabric and Chateau Marmont appliqué, $2,200, and mid-heel boots in green leather with embroidery, $2,950. Bella wearing white Magnolia shirt with ruffled neck and bow, $980, pink-multicolor GG printed technical jersey pleated shorts, $1,980, and rubber sole sandals in white leather with mesh details and crystals stones, $1,250. All wearing same outfits throughout page. All available at Gucci, Beverly Hills, 310-278-3451; gucci.com.

Shopping Guide

PHOTO FINISH p.122 Dolce & Gabbana denim pants with embroidery, $4,395, and black leather logo belt, $395, Dolce & Gabbana, Beverly Hills, 310-888-8701. Levi’s cropped denim Trucker jacket, $98; levi.com. Tiffany & Co. Tiffany T smile pendant in 18-karat gold with diamonds, $3,650, Tiffany HardWear ball ring in 18-karat gold, $800, and Tiffany T square ring in 18-karat gold, $1,300; tiffany.com. Cartier Love bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $5,300, Cartier, Beverly Hills, 310-275-4272; cartier.com.

Giuseppe Zanotti Ayda patent leather pumps with cylindrical heel, $795, Giuseppe Zanotti, Beverly Hills, 310-550-5760; giuseppezanotti.com.

C Magazine is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com, Subscriptions magazinec.com/subscribe. Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., add $65 postage. Single copies available at get.magazinec.com.

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MID-CITY L.A. LUMINOUS HUES, PAINTERLY PRINTS AND ARCHITECTURAL SHAPES APT FOR AN ARTFUL JAUNT

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EDITED BY ANUSH BENLIYAN AND REBECCA RUSSELL 1. GEORG JENSEN X SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE Halo hoops, $1,200, georgjensen.com. 2. STAUD Murray skirt, $205, staud.clothing.

3. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA Alex Bruce sneakers, $550, charlotteolympia.com. 4. Grace Jones A to Z by Steve Wide (Smith Street Books, $15).

5. BRIGHTLAND Awake olive oil, $37, brightland.co. 6. PAUL SMITH coat, $695, Paul Smith, L.A. 7. CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC Geometric tote, $1,690, calvinklein.com. 8. PRADA Fall/Winter 2018. 9. BALENCIAGA Fall/Winter 2018. 10. EAMES molded fiberglass dowel-leg armchair, from $675, dwr.com.

11. FLESH Proud Flesh matte liquid lipstick in Courage, $20, fleshbeauty.com. 12. DRIES VAN NOTEN X LINDA FARROW sunglasses, $345, Linda Farrow, L.A. 13. GIVENCHY scarf, similar styles available, Givenchy, Costa Mesa. 14. POIRET mules, $1,550, modaoperandi.com. 15. PREEN

BY THORNTON BREGAZZI Fall/Winter 2018. 16. JEREMY SCOTT Fall/Winter 2018.

17. CREED Original Vetiver fragrance, $395/100 mL, Creed, Beverly Hills. 18. ATTICO all-over printed silk shirt, $2,103, net-a-porter.com. 19. BALMAIN bag, price upon request, Balmain, L.A.

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C Insider

UNDERGROUND MUSEUM: PAUL VU, COURTESY LOHA. DAVIS PORTRAIT: PHOTOGRAPHY AND FASHION, TATIANA SCHABELNIK; CREATIVE DIRECTION AND HAIR, MAKSIM LEONOV; MAKEUP, PEDRO G CURIEL; RETOUCHING, DMITRIY PIROZHNIKOV.

KARON DAVIS

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THE UNDERGROUND MUSEUM’s colorful glass entrance, created

by LORCAN O’HERLIHY ARCHITECTS and artist DIANA THATER.

When In

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“I feel at home here,” says artist Karon Davis of Los Angeles’ Mid-City and adjacent West Adams communities. “This neighborhood is full of black history, culture and resilience.”

The New York native, celebrated for her figurative sculptures, co-established Mid-City’s The Underground Museum (theunderground -museum.org -museum.org) with her late husband, painter Noah Davis, in 2012, as an alternative exhibition space for artists of color. Here, Davis—whose show “Muddy Water” is on view at L.A.’s Wilding Cran Gallery through Nov. 4—shares some of her beloved haunts in this longstanding pocket of the city. • World on Wheels is a neighborhood treasure.

Nipsey Hussle helped save this legendary roller rink from extinction. wowskatela.com.

• Try the shrimp and grits at My Two Cents Cents. mytwocentsla .com. • Peace Awareness Labyrinth & Gardens is a converted mansion and meditation space with a little taste of old Hollywood. peacelabyrinth.org. • Founded by local hero Jewel ThaisWilliams (the former owner of Jewel’s Catch One nightclub), Village Health Foundation offers acupuncture and herbal-medicine counseling. villagehealthfoundation.org.

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“Peopleimint Faccat are always atur, quae like, ‘You’ve veris susanimin had a lot of es breakups,’ etum es”dit, saysvent delent ad quis mod singer-songwriter Rozzi queCrane sinulpa volora (aka Rozzi)parcia with aero laugh, blaborrum exerem “and I’mvollaborum like, ‘No. It’srestias the as dem lab same breakup.’ idit, offici It was aut really as raepudit, con nobisi inspirational.”

Undoubtedly, torese es essint.Bori utisautaspe heartbreak a strongdiscimus influence posaepellit in the 27-year-old’s dolorem work, nametur, as is voluptatius the late Amyad Winehouse. que nonsectem “Amy ullaceat eribus. changed my life because Et et autI aut always et at quid to wanted quibeaceprep a soul singer, udandusae but Iadi wrote adionecae pop songs,” vercianiendi the San blam undaerum, Francisco native explains. asperis arum “I laborrum was like, ‘How quidist do ipsam, I do both? offictur, es Oh! Amy! untiThat’s ilia dus how.’ dem ” Crane’s que ped quisit debut album, quo Bad mossund Together, aectur is alis earum being rolledrem out res onequibus song at et a quiaeriae. time, starting Et with labore “Never solectota Over sam eatiustiae You” and “Uphill sedBattle,” ut aped with ma volo quuntsongs additional rerio.available Ut rem reiciis for mo expe volest, download each month conserem through quia cuptas the endeos of the in year. eliatus “It’s dolupvery tium aut aut personal,” sheapeliam says of the quirecord, con ped quatemq which has been uatur, in thequiatibeworks rati utshe since faccaep was discovered elitatem denis by quam ipidit Adam Levineanditatem as a 19-year-old quat laboraestudent college num andelec at the University tiberum volorias of Southern nonsectem California ullaceat in 2011. eribus.Et classes, (Between et aut aut Crane et atwas quid also qui acepas working rep a backup udan dusae singeradi for adlabHenley Don orrumand quidist Sérgio ipsam, Mendes.) offictur, That year,esthe unti Los ilia Angeles-based dus dadlab orrumsigned talent quidist with ipsam, Levine’s offictur, label, es unti then went iliaon dus to tour dem and queperform ped qui sit quothe alongside mossund Maroon aectur 5 frontman. aliswas “It earum totally rem fairy-tale-like, res dolu ptium but aut aut apeliam ultimately, I needed quito con go ped through aquatemq lot of stuff...to uatur, find quiatiberati myself asut faccaep an artist,” elitatem says Crane, denis which quam ipidit anditatem included being dropped doluptium by that aut aut label and apeliam signingqui with con a new pedone, quatemq Small Giant uatur, Records. quiatiberati “It’s ledut me faccaep to write songs elitatem thatdenis I’m soquam proud ipidit of because anditatem they really quatreflect laborae me tiberum volorias living—which I hadn’t idemolor ever really sitiori debis done.”

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C 122 OCTOBER 2018

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HAIR: PETE LAMDEN. MAKEUP: JO STRETTELL AT TRACEY MATTINGLY USING JILLIAN DEMPSEY. NAILS: EMI KUDO AT OPUS BEAUTY USING CHANEL LE VERNIS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.118.

Singer-Songwriter

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION STYLING BY REBECCA RUSSELL

ROZZI CRANE

DOLCE & GABBANA pants, $4,395, and belt, $395. LEVI’S jacket, $98. TIFFANY & CO. necklace, $3,650, ball ring, $800, and square ring, $1,300. CARTIER bracelet, $5,300.

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI pumps, $795. T-shirt, stylist’s own.

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