C California Style

APPLE’S NEXT BITE IN THE STUDIO WITH NANCY RUBINS

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98 NOVEMBER 2018

TOC 1

Features 82 APPLE’S NEXT BITE The world’s most valuable company wants to swallow Hollywood—and your TV.

88 DON’T STOP HER NOW At just 21, Hailee Steinfeld is already an accomplished actor and megawatt pop star. But this is only the beginning, she tells writer Peter Davis.

104 88

98 DEFYING GRAVITY From her Topanga Canyon studio, Nancy Rubins conjures magic out of the mundane, her wondrous sculptures wowing crowds across the globe. Just don’t ask her why she does it.

104 TRUE COLORS Bold, bright and beautiful stones span the spectrum in the season’s finest jewels.

110 PERFECT SETTING How one jewelry designer found a hidden gem in historic Hancock Park and polished it to perfection.

C 18 NOVEMBER 2018

On Our Cover HAILEE STEINFELD wearing a MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION gown and POMELLATO ring.

Photography by BEAU GREALY. Creative and fashion direction

by ALISON EDMOND. Hair by GREGORY RUSSELL at The Wall Group using R + Co. Makeup by LOTTIE at Lowe and Co. using Shiseido. Nails by TOM BACHIK.

“PERFECT SETTING” (P.110): SAM FROST. “DEFYING GRAVITY” (P.98): CARMEN CHAN. “TRUE COLORS” (P.104): MOLLY CRANNA. “DON’T STOP HER NOW” (P.88): BEAU GREALY. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.119.

110

Gucci

CONTENTS

Departments 24 FOUNDER’S LETTER All that glitters.

38

26 C PEOPLE Who’s who behind the scenes of C.

65

Beautycounter founder Gregg Renfrew shares her local treasures.

35 C WHAT’S HOT Ken Fulk’s heavenly new private club in San Francisco. Scott Sternberg thinks global, acts local.

Marissa Hermer brings a dose of British whimsy to the Pacific Palisades.

73

45 C FASHION Coach goes grunge with The Viper Room on the Sunset Strip. Unleash your rhinestone cowgirl. Sparkling personalities on the California jewelry scene.

67

TOC 2

55 C CULTURE In conversation with Catherine Opie.

61 C DESIGN Weavers Sean Dougall and Andrew Paulson loom large. Heather Day makes meaningful artwork more accessible.

35

67 C MENU

64

All eyes on Thanksgiving pies. What Los Angeles newcomer Simone says.

55

73 C TRAVEL In search of Peruvian shamans with healer Colleen McCann.

50

77 C BEAUTY A guide to forest bathing. The House of Creed debuts in Beverly Hills.

119 SHOPPING GUIDE 120 WHEN IN Carmel’s enchanting outdoors.

122 PHOTO FINISH Samantha Thomas surfs, makes art and repeats.

C 20 NOVEMBER 2018

120 80

THE DRAYCOTT INTERIOR (P.38): JAKE AHLES PHOTOGRAPHY. INTERIOR FROM KERRY JOYCE: THE INTANGIBLE (P.65): ANTOINE BOOTZ. WOMEN WITH ALPACAS (P.73): AMY DICKERSON. EARRINGS (P.52): COURTESY OF JACQUEMUS. COCKTAIL (P.67): ROB STARK. RUNWAY (P.120): COURTESY OF R13. SURFBOARD (P.64): ST. FRANK. ST. JOSEPH’S ARTS SOCIETY INTERIOR (P.35): SHEILA GARVEY. SHOE (P.50): COURTESY OF CHRISTOPHER KANE. MIKE AND SKY (P.55): © CATHERINE OPIE, COURTESY OF REGEN PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES AND LEHMANN MAUPIN, NEW YORK AND HONG KONG. FOREST (P.80): SUZANNE CHRISTINE.

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28 #CMYCALIFORNIA

Dior

S O U T H C O A S T P L A Z A - 714 . 5 4 9 . 47 0 0

Jennifer Smith Hale Founder, Editorial Director & CEO Jenny Murray Editor & President Chief Brand & Content Officer Andrew Barker | Chief Creative Officer James Timmins Executive Creative & Fashion Director Alison Edmond Lesley McKenzie Deputy Editor Beauty Director Kelly Atterton

Arts & Culture Editor Elizabeth Khuri Chandler

Senior Designer Gabrielle Mirkin

Fashion Market Editor Rebecca Russell

Associate Editor Anush Benliyan

Photo Editor Maya Harris

Assistant Fashion Editor Margrit Jacobsen

Masthead

Graphic Designer Niki Sylvia

Contributing Senior Editor Melissa Goldstein San Francisco Editor-at-Large Diane Dorrans Saeks | Contributing Editor-at-Large Kendall Conrad Copy Editors Lily Maximo Villanueva, Nancy Wong Bryan | Special Projects Contributor Stephanie Steinman Contributing Editors Danielle DiMeglio, Kelsey McKinnon, Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith, Andrea Stanford, Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson Contributing Writers Catherine Bigelow, Caroline Cagney, Kerstin Czarra, Heather John Fogarty, Marshall Heyman, Punch Hutton, Christine Lennon, Martha McCully, Degen Pener, Jessica Ritz, Lindzi Scharf, Khanh T.L. Tran, Elizabeth Varnell, S. Irene Virbila Contributing Photographers Christian Anwander, David Cameron, Mark Griffin Champion, Victor Demarchelier, Amanda Demme, Michelangelo di Battista, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Beau Grealy, Zoey Grossman, Pamela Hanson, Kurt Iswarienko, Mona Kuhn, Kurt Markus, Carter Smith, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jan Welters Interns Taira Kanazawa

Renee Marcello Publisher Executive Director Southern California Crista Vaghi

Executive Director Fashion Debbie Flynn

Integrated Marketing Director Jillian DeMarche

Executive Director Northern California Autumn O’Keefe

Executive Director Jewelry & Watch Avery Travis

Sales & Marketing Associate Madison Dahlke

Executive Director Beauty & Lifestyle Office Assistant Heidi Kurlander-Kail Wendi Coto Information Technology Director Sandy Hubbard Finance Associate Troy Felker | Finance Assistant Lee Sultan Andy Nelson Chief Financial Officer & Chief Operating Officer C PUBLISHING 1543 SEVENTH STREET, SECOND FLOOR, SANTA MONICA, CA 90401 T: 310-393-3800 SUBSCRIBE@MAGAZINEC.COM MAGAZINEC.COM C-STATEOFMIND.COM

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FOUNDER’S LETTER

The phrase “diamond in the rough” is thrown around a lot, but with this issue, our annual jewelry and beauty special, it seems an apt metaphor for so much of what we focus on.

Take our cover subject, Hailee Steinfeld, as an example. We first photographed Steinfeld for the cover when she was 17 years old—already incredibly accomplished, having been nominated for an Oscar for best supporting actress at the tender age of 14! She was recognized for her role in True Grit, having famously beat out 15,000 girls in a worldwide search for the role—the ultimate expression of standing out from the crowd. She was just dipping her toe into music when we caught up with her back then, and now, at 21 she is a full-fledged pop star with tours around the world and some 10 million-plus Instagram followers to boot. What can’t she do? It has been a pleasure watching this homegrown, Thousand Oaks-raised girl flourish into a strong woman with a beautiful voice—both literally and figuratively.

Jewelry designer Jeet Sohal is adept at recognizing innate beauty and letting it shine, playing with rough diamonds and jewels and incorporating them into pieces that make up her line, Bare Collection. Far from minimal, however, is the house she and her young family inhabit in Los Angeles’ Hancock Park: A grand home from a grander time, Sohal’s space is populated with eclectic pieces from around the world which she mixes with jewel-toned colors and rich textures throughout for results that are anything but staid.

Equally unexpected and exotic, artist Nancy Rubins takes found objects, rough and worn, and turns them into monumental works of art in her Topanga Canyon studio. With a masterful eye, she can look at the mundane (old mattresses and televisions, for example) and see the potential for something that most of us could not envision. When she has transformed them, they are forever changed, as are we, having entered her dream world.

And, on the topic of escaped reality, the season’s most fantastical, bold and brilliant baubles star in our candy-colored still-life portfolio. Works of art in their own right, these epic jewels are perfect for your holiday wish list!

In highlighting the newest in makeup and skincare this issue, we were reminded yet again that in California, beauty is all around us—as is the case with Justine Kahn’s all-natural skincare line Botnia, whose powerful ingredients are sourced as close to home as it gets (from her Sausalito garden).

As ever, it’s a reminder to be open to discovery—because only then are we able to recognize the many gems in our midst.

Founder’s Letter

Founder, Editorial Director and CEO

We’d love to hear from you. Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.

C 24 NOVEMBER 2018

DAVID DOWNTON

JENNIFER SMITH HALE

Piaget

C PEOPLE

Who’s who behind the scenes of this issue, plus their favorite California places

John Arlidge Gregory Russell “Hailee [Steinfeld] is incredible to watch in front of the camera,” says Gregory Russell, who coiffed the cover star’s hair for “Don’t Stop Her Now,” p.88. Los Angeles-based Russell, who works at Andy Lecompte Salon in West Hollywood, has styled the likes of Chloë Grace Moretz and Alexa Chung. His clients include Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue and Jimmy Choo. C SPOTS • Yuko Kitchen in Downtown L.A. for the yummiest Japanese cuisine • Spellbound Sky in Silver Lake is the best crystal shop in L.A. • Painted Bird in Silver Lake is my favorite vintage shop—I always leave with something special

C People

Alexandria Abramian “I love how Jeet [Sohal] has created a place that listens to her home’s history and her family’s heritage,” says L.A.-based journalist Alexandria Abramian of the jewelry designer’s Hancock Park residence, which she captured in “Perfect Setting,” p.110. A former design editor for The Hollywood Reporter, Abramian writes for Architectural Digest and the Los Angeles Times. C SPOTS • Crystal Cove State Park’s cottage No. 16 in Laguna Beach has breathtaking views of the Pacific • Gjusta bakery in Venice is my happy place • Cooking classes at Eataly in Century City

C 26 NOVEMBER 2018

Molly Cranna “It was a great experience in trying some new techniques,” says Los Angeles-based photographer Molly Cranna of shooting the season’s most dazzling jewels against a backdrop of colored plexiglass for “True Colors,” p.104. Cranna’s client list includes Paper magazine, Wired, Puma and Target. C SPOTS • Heartbeat House in Atwater Village is my favorite place to work out in L.A. • Blair’s in Silver Lake for date nights • Public Assembly theater group in L.A. is top-notch, plus it has an open bar

Amy Dickerson “Peru stole my heart, and working at 16,000 feet in the Andes was one of the most challenging and rewarding projects of my career,” says Los Angeles-based photographer Amy Dickerson, who shot “Quest Love,” p.73. Dickerson contributes to The Hollywood Reporter and The New York Times, and she recently shot Colleen McCann’s book, Crystal Rx. C SPOTS • The Noah Purifoy Outdoor Desert Art Museum in Joshua Tree is a timely, layered and rich experience • At WoodSpoon in Downtown L.A., owner and chef Natalia Pereira creates mouthwatering dishes from her homeland, Brazil • Rim Rock Ranch in Pioneertown is an 11-acre hideaway where you can unwind under the stars with a Mexican beer

DICKERSON: COLLEEN M C CANN. CRANNA: JACKSON ADAIR. RUSSELL: COURTESY OF GREGORY RUSSELL/THE WALL GROUP.

“Apple did not make the first desktop computer, the first smartphone, the first tablet computer or the first smartwatch— but it has perfected them all,” says John Arlidge, who wrote about the tech giant’s bid to take on Netflix and Amazon in “Apple’s Next Bite,” p.82. “When it comes to entertainment, can it pull off the same trick?” Arlidge is a senior business writer for The Sunday Times in London.

C SPOTS • The Beverly Hills Hotel for a swim • Giorgio Baldi in Santa Monica for a special occasion • Tartine Bakery in San Francisco for the croissants

Michael Kors

#CmyCalifornia

SNAPSHOTS OF THE GOLDEN STATE, AS SEEN THROUGH THE EYES OF ITS BIGGEST FANS EDITED BY ANUSH BENLIYAN

When Santa Monica-based Gregg Renfrew founded Beautycounter in 2011, she set out to shift the focus of the personal care industry toward transparency and safety. Renfrew’s nontoxic skincare and makeup brand has since helped pioneer the national clean beauty movement, distributing its goods through 30,000-plus independent consultants. Here, the mother of three lets us in on what she does when she’s not advocating for updated federal regulations, guest lecturing at Stanford University, or partnering with nonprofits such as Healthy Child Healthy World. beautycounter.com.

CMYC

RENFREW PORTRAIT: CHELSEA PRESTIN. PIZZANA: DANE DEANER. WILL ROGERS STATE HISTORIC PARK: © KEVIN REESE, LICENSED UNDER CC BY-NC 2.0, CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/BY-NC/2.0.

Gregg Renfrew

“Best. Pizza. Ever.”

11712 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310-481-7108; pizzana.com.

“One of my most beloved parks in all of California.”

1501 Will Rogers State Park Rd., Pacific Palisades; parks.ca.gov/willrogers.

Pomellato

#CmyCALIFORNIA “Just north of Santa Barbara; this is where my family loves to go surfing.”

“They carry so many of my must-have home items, including plates that I have my eye on for my Christmas list.”

CMYC Côte

“My go-to for manicures and pedicures.

Their dedication to the cleanest nail polishes—and their beautiful shop in Brentwood—keeps me coming back.”

11714 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310-820-0906; coteshop.co.

“The perfect place for a relaxing dinner with friends, with the best views of the ocean in L.A.” 22716 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310-456-2400; littlebeachhousemalibu.com.

“One of my favorite stores, where I always find my newest obsession.”

2056 Fillmore St., S.F., 415-440-2100; elizabeth-charles.com.

HOLLISTER RANCH: COURTESY OF GREGG RENFREW. CÔTE NAILS: CÔTE. ELIZABETH CHARLES BOUTIQUE: MEGAN MURRAY. LITTLE BEACH HOUSE MALIBU: DAVE BURKE PHOTOGRAPHY FOR SOHO HOUSE.

225 26th St., Ste. 9, Santa Monica, 310-899-6711; turpanonline.com.

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Located in one of the world’s most dynamic cities, Waldorf Astoria Las Vegas and The Shops at Crystals usher in a new era on the Strip.

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WH opener

Divine Inspiration

The inaugural West Coast space of CARPENTERS WORKSHOP GALLERY, located on the second level of SAINT JOSEPH’S ARTS SOCIETY.

IN A FORMER CHURCH, KEN FULK UNVEILS HIS VISION FOR SAINT JOSEPH’S ARTS SOCIETY NOVEMBER 2018 C 35

Clockwise from above: Offerings from MR. FULK’S FLOWER FACTORY in the vestibule, which is also home to the first stateside outpost of French apothecary brand L’OFFICINE UNIVERSELLE BULY. KEN FULK. In 1980, the building was designated a National Historic Landmark. The choir loft lounge is available exclusively to subscribers.

WH turn By the time Ken Fulk set foot inside St. Joseph’s Church in 2015, the long-vacant historic landmark had, quite literally, gone to the birds. “It was filled with pigeons and it was raining inside,” he recalls.

Still, Fulk—who has orchestrated events and interiors for clients such as tech mogul Sean Parker—was undaunted. “It was all forlorn, but it was breathtaking.”

Built in 1913, the neo-Romanesque structure in San Francisco’s South of Market neighborhood was damaged during the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake and subsequently closed. After Fulk came on board, a new vision for the venue emerged: Saint Joseph’s Arts Society, a members club for those passionate about the arts. The society is limited to 400

invitation-only subscriptions. A portion of the annual fees underwrites arts programming that is accessible to the public. (Subscribers can nominate artists for membership, and their contribution comes through creative participation.)

To transform the church, Fulk worked with architecture firm Page & Turnbull, which specializes in historic preservation. The addition of a mezzanine upped the square footage to 22,000, allowing for ample party and exhibition areas. Catherine Wagner’s large-scale photographic installation Sala degli Imperatori (Hall of the Emperors) and Dutch artists Darwin, Sinke & van Tongeren’s “The Angels Are Above,” an exhibit comprised of sculptures and photography, are currently on view, along with 34 pieces from Carpenters Workshop Gallery inside its debut West Coast space.

Beneath the 50-foot-tall dome, the apse has been reimagined as a stage for performances and dinners.

For the immersive dining experiences, Fulk plans to enlist past culinary collaborators such as Gary Danko, Jennifer Puccio and Tyler Florence. Also open to the public is the vestibule, devoted to retail spaces curated by Fulk, as well as outposts of Mr. Fulk’s Flower Factory, the Assouline bookstore and Paris’ L’Officine Universelle Buly apothecary.

In the nave, members can retreat to eight salons bedecked in hundreds of yards of Pierre Frey textiles. Although Fulk is involved in myriad high-profile projects, such as Miami’s Swan and Bar Bevy with Pharrell Williams and David Grutman, Saint Joseph’s “is certainly the most personal,” he says. “I dreamt of it as a place that would once again be about community and celebrations.” saintjosephsartssociety.com.

• ANH-M I NH L E

CHOIR LOFT AND MR. FULK’S FLOWER FACTORY (2): DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN. FULK PORTRAIT: SHEILA GARVEY. SJAS EXTERIOR: RICH STAPLETON.

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Max Mara ©2018 South Coast Plaza

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@SouthCoastPlaza #SCPStyle Photographed at The Getty Center

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Clockwise from left: Moules frites.

MARISSA HERMER on the restaurant terrace. The Gold Digger cocktail.

PACIFIC PALISADES

BRIT Wit Although Marissa Hermer is a California girl—she was raised in Newport Beach and Laguna Beach—she may be best known for her role on Bravo’s Ladies of London. The mother of three and her husband, Matt Hermer, own several restaurants and bars in the U.K., and, after making the move across the pond to Pacific Palisades last year, recently opened their first California restaurant and lounge, The Draycott (15255

DOVIMA PARIS for THE SIL Darby silk blouse, $660, and Aria overskirt, $1,395.

Palisades Village Ln., Pacific Palisades, 310-573-8938; thedraycott.com), in the tony new Palisades Village. We sat down with Marissa to chat Pimm’s cups, puddings and Palisades living.

What’s the creative vision behind The Draycott? I wanted to create a place where I would want to hang out, where I could meet girlfriends for brunch alfresco or have a great cocktail at the bar while my kids run around and play.

Would you say the restaurant has a British aesthetic? Absolutely. The design is inspired by our home in Chelsea, with

WH draycott

some of the same textiles. Tell us about the menu. The produce is sourced from the Wednesday farmers’ market, and the menu leans very British: The English pea dip is like a pea hummus with Moorish flavors. We’re also doing a traditional beer-battered cod and brasserie classics such as steak-frites. Should we order the sticky toffee pudding or Eton mess?

Get both! Otherwise, you’ll see the one you didn’t order at another table and have dessert envy. KA R EN PA L M ER

The LODGE AT THE PRESIDIO offers the closest accommodations in San Francisco to the Golden Gate Bridge.

BEVERLY HILLS

In the PINK Natalie Bloomingdale is wearing her love of The Beverly Hills Hotel on her sleeves. The founder of The SIL—a meticulously curated site for independently designed collections by such standouts as Tish Cox, Molly Moorkamp and Cassandra King Polidori—is launching a capsule collection of bags, caftans, shirtdresses, shorts and earrings with a twist. “Each designer pays homage to the legendary hotel using our shared palette of hunter green and blush pink,” says Bloomingdale. Fittingly, the designs debut on Nov. 14 and Nov. 15 at a bungalow trunk show. The Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills; shopthesil.com. E LIZA B ET H VA R N EL L

SAN FRANCISCO

Fort Nights The tree-lined Presidio now has a plush new perch: the elegant Lodge at the Presidio, a 42-room hotel inside reworked Colonial Revival-style barracks. The former mess hall and regimental offices have been adapted by designer Laura Cook, in partnership with the Presidio Trust, into a military-inspired lobby and guest rooms, with a courtyard overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge. A short ride on the hotel’s complimentary bikes offers a closer look at the city skyline and lush 300-acre forest just beyond the Lodge’s original brick walls. From $275/night. 105 Montgomery St., S.F., 415-561-1234; lodgeatthepresidio.com. E.V.

THE DRAYCOTT (4): JAKE AHLES PHOTOGRAPHY. THE SIL: MONROE ALVAREZ. LODGE EXTERIOR: KENTYN REYNOLDS. LODGE INTERIOR: PAUL DYER.

THE DRAYCOTT dining room and bar.

John Hardy

HANDCR AF T ED A A X JH COLLEC T ION

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WHAT’S HOT Studio Visit

Clockwise from above: Floor-toceiling windows offer sweeping city views.

Racks of clothes line the efficient space.

SCOTT STERNBERG’s Brussels griffon, General Zod. A sock design.

ENTIREWORLD organic cotton ballet top, $45. A selection of swatches. Sternberg stands in front of the stacks of books that serve as reference and inspiration.

WH studio

GLOBAL CITIZEN Scott Sternberg’s designs have always been woven with vibe. With his former clothing company, Band of Outsiders, the branding savant launched and photographed a vintage Polaroid campaign featuring stars including Michelle Williams and Frank Ocean. The line and its creative universe made such an impact on wardrobes and minds that when Sternberg stepped down in 2015, fans felt a collective heartbreak.

Now he’s hitting the reset button with Entireworld, a direct-to-consumer lineup of pared-down, cozy wares such as organic cotton T-shirts, cable-knit sweaters and heathered sweatpants. But just because it’s not fashion with a capital “F,” doesn’t mean it’s lacking in the hype of which Sternberg’s so adept. The brand’s Instagram feed has an art-school swagger,

C 40 NOVEMBER 2018

dotted with lo-fi, doc-style clips and a new cast of characters for the Fall campaign including Busy Philipps, Andrew Garfield and Hasan Minhaj.

Echoing the minimalism of Entireworld’s clothes, when choosing a spot for his studio, pragmatism reigned supreme.

“There’s something so great about the placard outside my office and a key to the bathroom and all that,” he says of the no-frills Koreatown space.

The environs are relatively free of decorative objects—the better to appreciate the view of the Los Angeles skyline. “I find myself fixating on the Griffith Observatory and the Hollywood sign,” says Sternberg.

“And there’s a brick wall that I fantasize about staging screenings [on] someday.”

Mood boards containing everything from

geodesic domes to Sesame Street characters hang amid mounds of books on subjects ranging from Bauhaus and Geoffrey Beene to Legos and surfing.

Sternberg’s rapport with his co-workers is what makes the office tick—most of his employees also worked at Band of Outsiders. “It’s a beautiful time when a company [has fewer than] 10 people,” says the entrepreneur. “Customer service is involved in design. Design is involved in marketing. It’s one big dialogue.” theentireworld.com. • B R EN N A P I ER OS E

ENTIREWORLD (6): CARMEN CHAN. BALLET TOP: GILLIAN GARCIA.

SCOTT STERNBERG TAKES MINIMALISM TO THE MAX WITH HIS NEW LINE, ENTIREWORLD

IWC PILOT’S. ENGINEERED FOR ORIGINALS.

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Join the conversation on #B_ORIGINAL.

Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince”. Ref. 5010: The little prince tells the pilot he will give him a friendly laugh

the other hand, is guaranteed by the IWCmanufactured 52110-calibre movement with its seven-day power reserve. Time enough to

from the countless stars in the night sky. The sight this watch inspires similar sentiments, for every single detail is a joy to behold. The time-

forget time and follow the dream-like journey of the little prince. IWC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N .

piece is not only an imposing 46 millimetres in diameter but also impresses with classic elegance that sets off the midnight blue dial to perfect advantage. Technical perfection, on

Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement 52110 calibre · Pellaton automatic winding · 7-day power reserve · Power reserve display · Date display · Central hacking seconds · Soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields · Screw-in crown · Sapphire glass, convex,

antireflective coating on both sides · Special back engraving (figure) · Water-resistant 6 bar · Diameter 46.2 mm · Stainless steel · Calfskin strap by Santoni

PLÚS HÚS dwellings, from $37,000, are available in three different configurations, including a full option with a bathroom and kitchen.

A selection of porridges from chef MINH PHAN.

The Fab Life Dreamed up by Tryggvi Thorsteinsson and Erla Dögg Ingjaldsdóttir— the husband-and-wife design team behind the eco-conscious Santa Monica studio Minarc—Plús Hús is a modern, green and cost-effective mini dwelling that simplifies the process of adding detached square footage to your property. (The timely offering comes just as the state’s regulations on accessory dwelling units have eased.)

Crafted from recycled steel and extruded polystyrene to ensure moldand termite-resistance, each unit is produced in Downtown Los Angeles by Minarc’s prefab company, mnmMOD, before being flatpacked and delivered on-site for easy assembly. The 320-square-foot customizable Plús Hús can function as a guesthouse, yoga studio and beyond. theplushus.com. A .B.

LOS ANGELES

PUFF Piece Much to the joy of fans who savored Porridge + Puffs’ inventive rice porridge bowls during its pop-ups in the former Hollywood restaurant Field Trip, chef Minh Phan opened the doors to a permanent Historic Filipinotown location in September. The menu features dishes that are “rooted in things that everyone knows,” with a twist. Her take on chicken and rice? A creation composed of soy-braised chicken, mushrooms, turkey, pickled celery and hibiscus-shiso soft egg. 2801 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 213-908-5313; porridgeandpuffs.com. J ESS I C A R I TZ

WH porridge

ARTIFACT EIGHT rubbercast Python waist pack, $250. Below: Alligator Belly toiletry case, $225.

PACK Leader

Fashioned in Los Angeles from rubber molds of exotic skins, Artifact Eight accessories have the look and feel of the genuine article and the durability of a highperformance material. artifacteight.com.

C 42 NOVEMBER 2018

VISVIM’s Hiroki Nakamura (right) and friends in the MR PORTER X VISVIM capsule collection.

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES

Great Heights Visvim Californian romance continues. Having Visvim’s just opened a store in Downtown L.A., the Japanese brand, which teams traditional garments with Americana fabrics, has released an exclusive 29-piece collection with Mr Porter inspired by Yosemite. More specifically, the madcap climbers of the ’50s and ’60s who first scaled El Capitan.

On display Nov. 14-21 in store; available for purchase on mrporter.com mrporter.com. A N D R EW BA R K ER

PLÚS HÚS: ART GRAY PHOTOGRAPHY. PORRIDGE + PUFFS: RICK POON. ARTIFACT EIGHT: SARAH ST. CLAIR RENARD. VISVIM: COURTESY OF MR PORTER.

WHAT’S HOT

Mandarin Oriental

Caruso Properties

EDITED BY ALISON EDMOND

COACH

Fashion opener

COACH Viper Room T-shirt with ruffled collar, $150.

Planet Hollywood

COACH TEAMS UP WITH THE VIPER ROOM IN LOSÂ ANGELES FOR A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE NOVEMBER 2018 C 45

FASHION With its neon green sign and louche logo of a smoking temptress attached to a snake’s tail, the infamous Viper Room nightclub shines like a beacon of glam-grunge style on the Sunset Strip. Its iconography syncs with Coach’s ’s current youthful motifs, inspired by band patches and rock music.

For pre-Spring 2019, Stuart Vevers, Coach’s executive creative director, is incorporating this rock ’n’ roll visual vocabulary—including dice, palm trees and neon—in the styling of 18 items for men and women.

The line includes a canvas tote that juxtaposes an image of the lady viper atop a field of pink flowers, as well as a green satin bomber accentuated with a glittering collar and the club’s moniker embroidered on the chest. Coach’s rich history in leather craftsmanship can be traced in the bag’s smooth but sturdy reinforcements and also a cool keychain of the viper vixen. And no concert is complete without merch, which Coach interprets as a slim T-shirt shimmering with sequins. 327 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-247-1309; coach.com. • KHA N H T.L. TRA N

Clockwise from above: Outside the renowned rock club on Sunset Boulevard. Viper Room Souvenir jacket, $795.

Viper Room tote, $150.

Fashion turn

SAN FRANCISCO

COLLECTOR’S Circle One of the foremost modern art collectors in the world, British jeweler Laurence Graff OBE distills his appreciation of contemporary masters Kazimir Malevich, Cy Twombly and Paolo Scheggi into his creations.

Designers at his namesake company, Graff, hand-paint gouaches of jewels before craftsmen transform their visions into miniature works of art, showcased in the brand’s renovated San Francisco store, which reopened this summer. Designed by architect Peter Marino, the 2,500-square-foot space in the Union Square district has been enhanced with elegant new displays and a space dedicated to bridal and engagement jewelry.

“I approach the acquisition of gemstones and collecting contemporary art with the same ambition: to only seek the best,” Graff says. 237 Post St., S.F., 415-926-7000. K.T. L .T. C 46 NOVEMBER 2018

PACIFIC PALISADES

In Her Shoes Tamara Mellon wasn’t planning to open the first brick-and-mortar outpost of her eponymous luxury shoe brand until retail developer Rick Caruso described his vision for Palisades Village. “I had to say yes,” says the co-founder and former chief creative officer of Jimmy Choo.

Designed by architect Michael Maltzan, the 400-square-foot boutique is inspired by Mellon’s unparallelled shoe closet. Being neighbors with other local female entrepreneurs, including Anine Bing and Rachel Zoe, at the Pacific Palisades shopping center is a bonus. “It’s truly a oneof-a-kind community,” she says.

15225 Palisades Village Ln., Pacific Palisades, 310-525-1380; tamaramellon.com. K .T. L .T. TAMARA MELLON Bonfire 90 boots, $695.

Above: The British fashion designer.

VIPER ROOM EXTERIOR: THE VIPER ROOM. MELLON PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF TAMARA MELLON BRAND.

From far left: The revamped GRAFF store. Ruby and diamond Luna earrings, price upon request.

Chopard

L’ H E U R E D U D I A M A N T C O L L E C T I O N

Sou th Co a s t P l a z a : 7 1 4 . 4 3 2 . 0 9 6 3 w ww. c ho pa rd. c o m / us

FASHION GIVENCHY Jaw sneakers, $825.

Prize Draw For its first artist collaboration, Michael Kors Collection turns to David Downton, a British illustrator whose portraits have enlivened the pages of Vanity Fair and Vogue. A quartet of Downton muses comprise the print for a nine-piece collection, including a supple leather satchel and an effortless silk georgette shirtdress.

360 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310777-8862; michaelkors.com. K .T. L .T.

ON THE GO

With chunky teethlike soles, Givenchy’s Jaw sneakers mark Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller’s first urban kicks for the house. Here, the women’s low-top style is presented in a mix of leather, neoprene and suede.

From above: MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Brooke Simone bag, $2,450, and portrait print dress, $7,995.

Fashion scout

givenchy.com.

SCOUTING PARTY

SHOP LIKE A LOCAL AT FOUR DESTINATION-WORTHY BOUTIQUES ZAK Thick Cat frames, $125.

ZAK

GORJANA

MCMULLEN

With its eighth store, which features on-site bespoke engraving, Laguna Beach-based Gorjana showcases signet rings and delicate jewelry designed for eclectic layering.

10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 424-303-7112; gorjana.com.

Beloved women’s fashion destination McMullen has reopened in a chic ’70s-inspired space on Oakland’s rejuvenated Broadway, offering in-house tailoring, same-day deliveries and Bay Area exclusives from Jacquemus, Ryan Roche and others. 2257 Broadway, Oakland, 510-508-0773; shopmcmullen.com. K .T. L .T.

LE BOX BLANC

A new take on one-stop shopping for optometric care, Zak stocks an array of modern frames (both sun and optical) in classic silhouettes, and also provides eye exams and contact lenses. Plus, sip on housemade carrot juice while you shop. 416 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323-866-2020; zakeyes.com.

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LOEFFLER RANDALL Indy Circle crossbody, $395.

GORJANA Cayne Crescent pendant necklace, $78.

Downtown L.A.’s Le Box Blanc personalizes the shopping experience, highlighting fresh looks from labels including A.L.C. and Iro, as well as sweetening the deal with same-day delivery and loyalty points toward purchases.

1100 S. Hope St., C1, L.A., 213-5193400; lbbofficialstore.com.

Inside the contemporary McMULLEN store.

THE Bling Ring

Beyond the Streets Fendi is mashing up its iconic logos across an all-ages capsule collection, aptly dubbed Fendi Mania. The concept is a progression from Instagram artist @hey_reilly’s clever logo teased in the Fall/Winter 2018 show, which combines Fila’s color-blocked “F” and Fendi’s world-renowned name. Along with the “FF” logo, the reimagined emblem covers more than 100 pieces, including women’s mink coats, men’s sweaters, kids’ tracksuits, cowboy boots and fanny packs.

201 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-6233420; fendi.com. K .T. L .T.

FENDI MANIA collection, prices upon request.

MADE and Crafted

After a decade at Rag & Bone, Lauren Bucquet launched the Los AngelesFashion based footwear label Labucq.

Look for Italian-made boots, mules and pumps made from materials such as kid suede and python-printed nappa leather.

FENDI: COURTESY OF FENDI. UGG: UGG.

For a limited-edition collection commemorating its 40th anniversary, Santa Barbara-based Ugg is connecting with influencers such as model Adwoa Aboah, who’s starring in a campaign heralding the reissue of 13 styles in the original sand color (including the classic pull-on sheepskin boot). After all, she says, “Ugg is an iconic California brand.”

Nordstrom, 189 The Grove Dr., L.A., 323-930-2230; ugg.com. K .T. L.T.

SYLVA & CIE Before starting Los Angeles-based Sylva & Cie in 2007, Sylva Yepremian trained under her father, a former master jeweler for The Maison Cartier in Paris. Creating mosaics with gemstones, she imbues the heart silhouette with contemporary flair in her new collection. sylvacie.com.

SONA WEAVER The Sublime earrings, $1,170.

LABUCQ Kati boots in Ivory Crocco, $375.

jeweler

labucq.com.

Endless Summer

SYLVA & CIE Double Wrap Heart Ten Table bracelet, $14,500.

UGG classic short 40:40:40 boots, $170.

SONA WEAVER Years of studying Renaissance art and admiring vintage fashion influences the way Angeleno Nina Collins works with textured gold and bright gemstones to design timeless and expressive pieces in the inaugural collection for her jewelry brand, Sona Weaver. sonaweaver.com.

SETHI COUTURE Simple Elegance Stack rings, from $1,150.

SETHI COUTURE Sethi Couture designers Pratima and Prerna Sethi meld their Californian sensibility and Indian heritage in their artisanal, eclectic line. Their latest collection is emblazoned with intricate carvings and sandblasted finishes, a nod to the Maharaja’s Palace in Jaisalmer, India. sethicouture.com. K .T. L .T.

NOVEMBER 2018 C 49

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FASHION Trend 2.

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Fashion crystals 14.

MARCO PANCONESI for MUGLER Fall/Winter 2018.

13.

CRYSTAL Gaze

12.

1. CHRISTOPHER KANE Crystal Drip heels, $1,195, christopherkane.com. 2. ROGER VIVIER evening diamondembellished Boîte de Nuit clutch, $3,850, Roger Vivier, Costa Mesa.

3. HERMÈS Heure H timepiece, $9,250, Hermès, Beverly Hills.

4. FOREVERMARK BY NATALIE K Spike diamond drop earrings, price upon request, forevermark.com.

5. ALCHIMIA DI BALLIN Ruta satin booties, $895, Barneys New York, Beverly Hills. 6. GUCCI crystal hat, $5,500, Gucci, Beverly Hills. 7. EMMANUEL TARPIN Seashell one-of-akind earrings with diamonds, $130,000, modaoperandi.com.

8. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA Rising Star platform sandals, $1,110, charlotteolympia.com. 9. OSCAR DE LA RENTA embroidered Billiard clutch, $1,990, Oscar de la Renta, L.A. 10. VHERNIER Pirouette ring with diamonds, $65,000, Vhernier, Beverly Hills.

11. TOM FORD Disco quilted crystal small Natalia bag, $3,250, Tom Ford, Beverly Hills.

12. ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER nappa boots with Swarovski detail, price upon request, Just One Eye, L.A. 13. DENA KEMP rhodium cuff with diamonds, price upon request, denakempjewelry.com.

14. AQUAZZURA Disco slingback pumps, $1,150, aquazzura.com. 15. SONIA RYKIEL small chain handbag, $2,910, Just One Eye, L.A. 16. SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO Smoking Twisted torque bracelet, $1,495, Saint Laurent, Beverly Hills.

6.

BASK IN THE BRILLIANCE OF THIS SEASON’S RHINESTONE ACCESSORIES

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FASHION MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. MUGLER IMAGE: ARNAUD LAJEUNIE. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.119.

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Stanford Shopping Center

FASHION Jewelry Box 1.

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14.

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Fashion jbox VERSACE Fall/Winter 2018.

1. CHANEL FINE JEWELRY Sous le Signe du Lion cuff, $27,700, Chanel, Beverly Hills. 2. TACORI X WHO WHAT WEAR Swords Pair earrings, $390, tacori.com.

3. JACQUEMUS Yasmin earrings, $440, jacquemus .com. 4. FOREVERMARK BY RAHAMINOV DIAMONDS tag pendant, price upon request, forevermark.com.

5. CHAN LUU Petite Hammered Cymbal earrings, $145, Chan Luu, L.A. 6. LAUREN WOLF JEWELRY Stingray signet ring, $1,150, Esqueleto, Oakland.

7. SHERYL LOWE square chain bracelet, $3,050, sheryllowejewelry.com.

8. AZLEE Aurum Nugget charm, $2,150, azleejewelry .com. 9. EFFY JEWELRY yellow gold and diamond ring, $2,097, effyjewelry.com.

10. LARISA LAIVINS handcarved California ring, $1,820, larisalaivins.com.

11. GORJANA Lightning Charm stud earrings, $35, gorjana.com. 12. ANNIE COSTELLO BROWN Mika XL earrings, $334, anniecostellobrown.com.

13. ELLERY De Woody chain necklace, $350, us.ellery.com.

14. KATKIM Petal ring, $1,600, katkimfinejewelry.com.

6.

GILTY Pleasure

12.

MAKE A GRAPHIC STATEMENT IN FALL’S GOLDEN HITS

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FASHION MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. RUNWAY: COURTESY OF VERSACE. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.119.

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Kate Spade

teamLab, Continuous Life and Death at the Now of Eternity, 2017, digital work, 9 channels, edition of 10 + 2 APs © teamLab

Pace Gallery

teamLab Continuous Life and Death at the Now of Eternity November 15, 2018 – January 6, 2019

229 Hamilton Ave

PALO ALTO

EDITED BY ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER

Shock Value

© CATHERINE OPIE, COURTESY OF REGEN PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES AND LEHMANN MAUPIN, NEW YORK AND HONG KONG

ARTIST CATHERINE OPIE MADE HER NAME BY HOLDING A MIRROR TO HERSELF. NOW SHE’S EXPOSING LOS ANGELES

Culture opener

CATHERINE OPIE’s Self Portrait/Cutting, 1993.

NOVEMBER 2018 C 55

CULTURE

Clockwise from left: Opie’s Idexa, 1993. Frankie, 1995. 700 Nimes Road, Andy Warhol to Elizabeth (Self-Portrait Artist), 2010-2011. A still from Opie’s film The Modernist.

Culture turn

“I don’t want to make easily digestible art. It has to ask harder questions,” says photographer Catherine Opie. Over the course of 30 years, that’s exactly what she’s done: catching the art world’s attention at the 1995 Whitney Biennial with a series of self-portraits evoking Hans Holbein’s Renaissance paintings—albeit with bloody queer-centric carvings etched into her skin. The arresting images at once referenced gay unions, the AIDS crisis, her marginalized leather community and her longing for a family of her own.

Having documented a vast swath of California, her adopted home, from desolate freeway interchanges and verdant national parks, to warrior-faced

C 56 NOVEMBER 2018

football players and pensive surfers, to urban mini-malls and sprawling mansions, the 57-year-old still sits squarely in the art world’s crosshairs. As the selfdescribed news junkie shuts off CNN for a freewheeling, civic-minded conversation about housing, fake news, democracy and identity, it quickly becomes clear how Opie—whom the Los Angeles County Museum of Art is honoring alongside filmmaker Guillermo del Toro at its Art+Film Gala in November—earned her nickname, “Mayor of L.A.” “I watch all the news channels. I’m really interested in this idea of a democratic process,” says Opie, who collects a diverse array of magazines to study American society’s current fracture lines.

Her fascination is stoked by a Midwestern childhood spent in Ohio, followed by a move to suburban San Diego, a bachelor of fine arts at the San Francisco Art Institute and a master’s earned at California Institute of the Arts in Valencia. Over the years, Opie’s lived in multiple Los Angeles neighborhoods, including West Adams and her current home in Hancock Park, with her wife, painter Julie Burleigh, and 16-year-old son, Oliver. The unique ideologies of each place fascinate her, and she points out that sitting on the boards of The Museum of Contemporary Art, The Andy Warhol Foundation and The Mike Kelley Foundation for the Arts fosters a certain bipartisanship. Opie’s longtime gallerist, Shaun Caley Regen, recognized these qualities early on. “What was immediately apparent was that Catherine had

From top: Opie’s Untitled #1 and Untitled #27, both from the series Freeway. The artist. Untitled #4 (Surfers), 2003.

© CATHERINE OPIE, COURTESY OF REGEN PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES AND LEHMANN MAUPIN, NEW YORK AND HONG KONG. OPIE HEADSHOT: HEATHER RASMUSSEN, COURTESY OF REGEN PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES.

that the film, complete with manipulated Los Angeles Times front pages tweaked in Photoshop, introduces artistic prototypes of fake news. She created front pages with images of flames liberated from pictures of California fires pasted onto her shots of the architectural masterworks. “I wanted to reflect on [the 24-hour news cycle], but obviously through print, through the local newspaper,” Opie explains. “It’s about the physicality of the news and how it can be remade by simply collaging. I was making this at the time of the [presidential] election. Fake news wasn’t this barrage that we hear now. So I think it’s always interesting how art begins to an engagement with her community that was so crystal clear, and an engaging world view that was incredibly broad and generous,” she says.

Michael Govan, LACMA director and CEO, calls Opie an “overachiever” who volunteers her work and rare spare time for community causes. “So many of my friends struggle to have housing,” observes the photographer, who counts herself lucky to have landed an arts professorship at UCLA for the past two decades. “I wanted to reflect on that,” she adds, referring to her first film, The Modernist, which premiered last winter at L.A.’s Regen Projects. The work, recently acquired by LACMA and set to be shown at New York’s Lehmann Maupin gallery this month, is a series of digitally shot still images, Opie’s dystopian homage to Chris Marker’s 1962 film La Jetée. Marker’s work imagines a postnuclear Paris while Opie’s follows an artist-turnedarsonist who sets fire to some of L.A.’s most iconic midcentury modern designs.

The juxtaposition is especially salient, given that houses like John Lautner’s Chemosphere command stratospheric prices—even as the work of midcentury architects, including Lautner and Richard Neutra, was rooted in utopian ideals of mass-produced, affordable homes. Opie’s protagonist, a trans man, dramatically confronts the politics of exclusion, affordability, aspiration and equality with a gas can and match.

Stephanie Barron, LACMA head of modern art, says the film immediately struck her as “a remarkably ambitious portrait of Los Angeles.” Opie dryly observes

“HER WORK HAS ALWAYS BEEN INFLUENCED BY HER IMMEDIATE COMMUNITY, Culture turn BUT SHE IS ALSO A PERIPATETIC WANDERER AND A GREAT CITIZEN OF THE WORLD.” —SHAUN CALEY REGEN

reflect the times we live in and we don’t even know we’re making something that’s so poignant.”

En route to her Downtown L.A. studio, Opie passes homeless encampments she counts as communities that are as unique to the city as Bel Air and South L.A., places where she’s shot mansions (including Elizabeth Taylor’s) and strip malls.

“I appreciate the city in all of its ways of being,” she says. Blocks away from the encampments, Opie’s massive pigment prints of Yosemite Falls hang in the Skidmore, Owings & Merrill-designed federal courthouse. “I think California is a place of natural extremes, not only from ocean to desert, but also the political extremes make it one of these states that you can’t stop thinking about or reflecting on. It’s a vast place that encompasses so many ideologies that reflect American politics.” All of which make it an ideal microcosm for Opie’s lens. • E.V.

NOVEMBER 2018 C 57

CULTURE

LOS ANGELES

JWAN YOSEF’s Hafez, 2018.

Right: The artist.

There’s a commonality to conceptual artist Jwan Yosef’s new works—portraits depicting propaganda shots of Syrian dictator Hafez al-Assad, glorified publicity stills of closeted actor Rock Hudson, and youthful images of the artist’s Kurdish Muslim father. “They emphasize rejection and disruption,” explains the 34-year-old Syrian-born, Stockholm-raised painter.

Throughout his childhood, Yosef says, each figure played a pivotal role in forming his identity. Inside his Beverly Hills studio, steps from the midcentury house he shares with husband Ricky Martin and their twin boys, Yosef says his family’s departure from Syria, Hudson’s transcendence of his cinematic idol status to become the face of AIDS, and al-Assad’s power grab (and that of his son, Syria’s current leader, Bashar al-Assad) all profoundly impacted him.

“They’re part of my search for heritage,” says the artist, whose rapid rise includes three international solo shows this fall, including an exhibition at Los Angeles

Culture bits

gallery Praz-Delavallade. For years, Yosef avoided oil and canvas—the materials of the old masters—as precious, “heavy with art history,” too “holy” to use. Now that the artist, who earned his master’s in fine art from London’s Central Saint Martins, embraces the hallowed medium, he yanks the finished canvases from each handmade frame, effectively destroying what he painstakingly creates. “I still need to portray my rejection of the material,” he quips.

Nov. 10-Jan. 12. “A Gathering of Eagles” at Praz-Delavallade, 6150 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323-917-5044; praz-delavallade.com. E .V.

SAN FRANCISCO

ZOE CROSHER’s Transgressing the Pacific: Where Norman Maine Disappeared at Laguna Beach, 2010.

Set in Stone A new Legion of Honor exhibition, “East Meets West: Jewels of the Maharajas from the Al Thani Collection,” pays sartorial homage to the next-level ornamentation of Mughal dynasty emperors and maharajas, complete with a profusion of jewels, ornate swords and daggers. Nov. 3-Feb. 24. 100 34th St., S.F., 415-750-3600; famsf.org. E.V.

The Nizam of Hyderabad necklace, 1850-1875.

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SANTA MONICA

LA-LA LAND

Photographer Zoe Crosher’s Los Angeles obsession continues with her new show, “Sunlight as Spotlight,” which captures the essence of the city, both real and imaginary.

Oct.19-Nov. 24. Patrick Painter Gallery, 2525 Michigan Ave., Ste. B2, Santa Monica, 310-264-5988; patrickpainter.com.

JWAN YOSEF’S HAFEZ AND PORTRAIT (2): COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND PRAZ-DELAVALLADE, LOS ANGELES, PARIS. NIZAM OF HYDERABAD NECKLACE: © THE AL THANI COLLECTION. PHOTOGRAPHY BY PRUDENCE CUMING ASSOCIATES LTD. COURTESY OF LEGION OF HONOR. TRANSGRESSING THE PACIFIC: WHERE NORMAN MAINE DISAPPEARED AT LAGUNA BEACH: COURTESY OF ZOE CROSHER AND PATRICK PAINTER INC.

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Looming Large

SEAN DOUGALL AND ANDREW PAULSON ARE PROVING THERE’S NO “I” IN WEAVE

MONICA NOUWENS

Design opener

A man-size view of DOUGALL PAULSON’s Moontide 2.

Clockwise from above: ANDREW PAULSON (left) and SEAN DOUGALL in their weaving studio, situated in the great room of their San Bernardino home. Moontide 1.

The artist couple.

Dougall at work in the ceramics studio. The spacious outdoor patio, replete with drought-resistant plants, is just one of the things that attracted the couple to their home, originally built as a doctor’s residence.

A cluster of silverplated enameled jewelry wire.

Design turn “You know how a master sushi chef doesn’t get to hold the knife for 10 years?” asks Sean Dougall, half of the design duo Dougall Paulson. “That’s like me with weaving. I finally started doing it earlier this year, because we had so much work to do. It was all hands on deck!”

That creative push came from one of the world’s most respected tastemakers, architect Peter Marino, who tapped Dougall and his partner in life and work, self-taught weaver Andrew Paulson, for 10 largescale weavings crafted from silver-plated enameled jewelry wire to be installed in the Chanel flagships in Beijing and Paris.

“We’re so, so honored,” says Paulson.

The career milestone coincided with a move in December from their apartment in Watts to a 1920 Spanish Mission Revival home in San Bernardino. “It had all of this original charm—very Old World and romantic,” says Dougall.

Known for their conceptual editioned furniture and ceramics—Dougall’s first calling—the pair has been working

C 62 NOVEMBER 2018

together since 2013. (Previously, Paulson had been a literary agent, and Dougall was a production designer on Super Bowlscale events.) Their debut collection, Dark Matter, with its otherworldly furniture forms and decadent materials, was feted by the likes of industry insider Joel Chen of JF Chen. Since then, they’ve released three

more collections, including the recently unveiled Moontide, a series of handwoven art textiles inspired by the shimmering effect of moonlight on the ocean’s surface.

In between fielding orders (they’re working on a triptych for of-the-moment designer Alex P. White), they’re slowly settling into their new digs. Throughout the house, any decor that isn’t equipment is usually one of their prototypes—that is, if it’s not work from artist friends including Lisa Bartleson, Monica Nouwens and Nike Schroeder. “We enjoy living with our work because we work all the time,” says Dougall. Paulson adds, “Everything is a launchpad for new concepts.” • M.G .

MONICA NOUWENS

DESIGN

Snyder Diamond

DESIGN PACIFIC PALISADES

STUDY IN Contrasts Adobe-style dwellings inspired the latest outpost of Christina Bryant’s ethically sourced home goods boutique, St. Frank. Her newly opened Pacific Palisades shop, a vibrantly patterned oasis dubbed “The Hacienda,” showcases several debuts (among them Gary Linden surfboard designs in St. Frank’s textile prints)—but perhaps most notable is the brand’s first tabletop collection. “We’re known for pattern and color, but with our tabletop pieces we’re showing a more neutral palette,” says Bryant of the made-in-Mexico black clay, red clay, glass and ironwood offerings. 15259 Palisades Village Ln., Pacific Palisades, 424-268-7200; stfrank.com. E.V.

ST. FRANK Blue Otomí tablecloth, $1,250, set with black clay dinner plate, $45, and red clay flat serving platter, $120. GARY LINDEN X ST. FRANK Amber Stripe Kuba Cloth Fishboard, $1,295.

DesignOutside frank Chance A pair of neoclassical oak veneer accent chairs flank an AMY MEIER COLLECTION Kerylos table set with hand-blown Italian hurricane chimneys. An assortment of terra-cotta vessels by ANK CERAMICS.

After staying at a Palm Springs rental where the poolside furniture left much to be desired, Los Angeles-based designers Rachel Bullock and Molly Purnell knew there was a market for their indoor-outdoor line Laun (the name is a play on lawn furniture as well as their original headquarters—the laundry room in Purnell’s home). The pair, who met while earning their master’s degrees in architecture from the University of Texas at Austin, launched Laun this past spring with the stainless steel DeMille dining chair and terrazzo Confetti table and matching planter. November brings new releases: the Bacall dining chair, plus small and large sizes of Confetti. launlosangeles.com. A. L .

RANCHO SANTA FE

RARE Finds With the recent opening of her eponymous shop in Rancho Santa Fe, interior designer Amy Meier is further ensconcing herself in the charming yet relatively off-the-radar community she has called home for the past eight years. Her 650-square-foot outpost abounds with furniture, art and home goods that are one-of-a-kind or exclusive collaborations (such as artist Carol Leskanic’s Constantin Brancusi-inspired, hand-gilded lamps). Meier’s travels serve as a source for hard-to-find treasures, including sumac wax candles from Japan, as well as a spark for her in-house label, which spans a collection of art deco-style tables and a forthcoming range of Italian-made bedside decanters.

16903 Avenida de Acacias, Rancho Santa Fe, 858-848-4151; amymeier.com. A . L .

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LAUN large Confetti planter, $5,200. Above: Bacall dining chairs, $2,100 each, and small Confetti table, $3,200.

DESIGN

Clockwise from left: HEATHER DAY at work on her PROVENANCE VINEYARDS mural. The final result. The artist in her studio.

ST. FRANK (2): ST. FRANK. AMY MEIER (2): AMY MEIER. LAUN (2): LITTLE LEAGUE STUDIO. HEATHER DAY PAINTING AND PROVENANCE VINEYARDS MURAL (2): GRACE SAGER. DAY IN HER STUDIO: MARGARET AUSTIN PHOTOGRAPHY. FIVE | SIX TEXTILES: BRANDI WELLES. THE INTANGIBLE: ANTOINE BOOTZ.

DAY Trip “It’s important for everyone to have access to meaningful artwork,” says artist Heather Day. And the San Francisco-based talent is doing her part—recently leaving her mark at YouTube in San Bruno, where dripping electric-blue ribbons and directional pink zigzags activate the concrete

hallways (a follow-up project for the company is also in the works).

Her full-time art practice, comprising expressive works on canvas, paper and walls, has been booming since she left a job as a sales associate at Janus et Cie in 2014. “The creative obstacle is balancing the visual harmony between the artwork and the existing architectural forms,” she says of her murals. Last year, she debuted an augmented reality installation—visible only via smartphone—outside Mark Zuckerberg’s office at the Facebook headquarters in Menlo Park. In August at Provenance Vineyards in St. Helena, she unveiled a 60-foot-long piece that responds to the local terrain, punctuated by swaths of sky blue and moss green.

“It’s not about a great backdrop for a selfie,” says Day, who is prepping a solo exhibition with S.F.-based Hashimoto Contemporary for the Art on Paper fair in New York City this spring. “My hope is that people will slow down and observe.” heatherday.com. FLORA TSA P OVS KY

Design heather Common Thread

Right: The KERRY JOYCEdesigned interior of a Manhattan townhouse previously inhabited by ANDY WARHOL.

CLASS Act

Kerry Joyce: The Intangible (Pointed Leaf Press, $90) unpacks the Los Angeles-based interior designer’s philosophy of visual harmony through his projects, spanning Andy Warhol’s onetime residence and an art moderne redux.

Having worked as a researcher at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Five|Six Textiles co-founder Emma Wingfield brings an expertise in Central and West African design to her home goods brand, produced by a collective of master artisans in rural Côte d’Ivoire.

This holiday season, Venice-based Wingfield and her partner Laine Henry are expanding the tabletop range (as well as adding placemats) with textiles derived from techniques “that have taken hundreds of years to perfect,” she says. fiveandsixtextiles.com. J. R .

FIVE | SIX TEXTILES Kourou Kourou Marron table runner, $85, and Cari Cari napkin, $75/set of four.

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China Eastern

It’s your journey. It’s our passion. flycea.com

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ROB STARK

Menu opener

Burrata with plum confit, nigella, purslane and mint at SIMONE.

Star Power

SIMONE’S AWARD-WINNING CHEF AND FILM DIRECTOR BACKER MAKE THEIR DEBUT IN L.A.’S ARTS DISTRICT NOVEMBER 2018 C 67

MENU

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Menu turn

ROB STARK

At Los Angeles’ new Simone, pole beans— yellow, green and dark smoky ones—are heaped beside a lake of brilliant purple tomatillo sauce. Soft pillows of ricotta gnudi come blanketed in grated tomato zapped with guanciale and basil. Fresh sturgeon is wrapped in a fragrant hoja santa leaf, served with roasted corn and blistered shishito. And tender pork collar with baby bok choy is garnished with crazy delicious braised fresh peanuts and lovage.

The menu at the 75-seat Arts District restaurant from chef Jessica Largey is casual and contemporary, but hardly simple.

The formidable technique she wielded as chef de cuisine at the three-Michelinstarred Manresa may be tucked away out of sight, but it’s there in every bite of Largey’s bold, polished cooking at Simone.

This is the restaurant she’d been planning (with Avengers: Infinity War codirector Joe Russo) even before the accomplished 32-year-old won the James Beard Rising Star Chef award in 2015.

After Manresa, she gave herself a sabbatical—time to travel, cook with friends and discover what she loves to eat and what she wanted to cook at Simone.

Up to then, her entire career had been in fine dining, first at Providence in L.A. (under the watchful eye of Michael Cimarusti) and then at Manresa in Los Gatos (with David Kinch). “I wanted to make food that was more accessible and fun— food I could have afforded as a cook and which doesn’t require tweezers to plate,” Largey says. She’s not ready to give up her fine dining roots entirely though: At some

point, she’ll offer a tasting menu a few days a week at the six-seat chef’s counter.

It’s walnut, of course, like the svelte dining room’s brass-edged tables, just one of the industrial deco details in Deirdre Doherty’s design for the 1921 building.

Lighting fixtures are brass and bespoke.

Banquettes are cushy velvet. A private dining room is swathed in hand-painted wallpaper. And a 25-seat bar up front, with its leather chairs and antique mirrors, is pretty swell (and serves the full menu, too). Within Simone, Duello’s eccentric cocktails are from mixologist Iain McPherson, discovered by Russo in Edinburgh, Scotland. (Anyone for a Kimchi Gibson?)

As for those tweezers, they’re right at home poking out of Largey’s chef’s jacket. “Sometimes,” she explains with a shrug, “they’re just so much faster.”

449 S. Hewitt St., L.A., 424-433-3000; simoneartsdistrict.com. • S . I RENE V IR B ILA

Clockwise: Private dining room. Chef JESSICA LARGEY. Booth seating in the main dining area. Charred squash with nectarine, celery root and macadamia salsa macha. Rose Derby cocktail.

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THE UPPER CRUST

FIVE NEW BAKERIES ARE DISHING OUT PERFECT PIES FOR YOUR THANKSGIVING FEAST

Menu pies At her bakery’s new second location in Beverly Grove (the original is in Brentwood), Brianna Abrams sells pie—and only pie—made with a superflaky all-butter crust. Grab a slice of her not-too-sweet cherry, or pick up signature mini PieBites as a quick treat. What to order: Abrams’ Southern-style Cranberry Orange Chess Pie is made with freshly squeezed orange juice, fresh cranberries and topped with candied orange slices for a one-two citrus punch. 8366 W. Third St., L.A., 323-925-4743; winstonpies.com.

REAL PIE COMPANY After a 10-year hiatus, Kira O’Donnell Babich reopened her from-scratch bakery this past spring. She works with a host of local farmers to create fruitforward pies—and even buys (or swaps pies for) Meyer lemons, figs and the like from locals through her Backyard Fruit Project. What to order: C 70 NOVEMBER 2018

The seasonal favorite, a free-form Pear Galette. 2425 24th St., Sacramento, 916-838-4007; realpiecompany.com.

MILK BAR Christina Tosi has brought her playful sweets emporium to Los Angeles, complete with signature items such as Birthday Truffles, cereal milk soft serve and Compost Cookies. Around Turkey Day, keep an eye out for a Pumpkin Dulce de Leche Cake and her popular Thanksgiving croissant. What to order: Tosi’s now-infamous Crack Pie, an ode to making something out of nothing, was first made for a staff meal at New York City’s wd~50. A toasted oat crust encloses the pie’s buttery filling, which is topped with confectioners’ sugar. 7150 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323-297-3250; milkbarstore.com.

THEORITA The offshoot of San Francisco’s Italian hot spot Che Fico is a dinette and pie shop

named for chef Angela Pinkerton’s grandmother, who taught her how to make pies.

The restaurant’s rotation of six or seven pies are available all day, even at breakfast. What to order: Sweet Potato-andCoffee Cream Pie. Pinkerton creates a roasted sweet potato filling, then tops that layer with whipped coffee cream and adds a garnish of candied citrus peel. 834 Divisadero St., S.F., 415-416-6980; theorita.com.

FIONA Gjusta alum Nicole Rucker’s long-awaited all-day restaurant and bakery serves pies (whole and by the slice) daily on Fairfax Avenue. Rucker has won multiple awards for her pies—which here include a classic apple made with crème fraîche, and a lemon chess. What to order: Rucker calls her Pumpkin Pie a “unanimous kitchen favorite.” It’s made with roasted kabocha and red kuri squash sweetened with a hint of maple and caramel. 339 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323-852-3210; fionabakeryla.com. • K . P.

ANDREW BECK

WINSTON PIES

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Travel opener

AMY DICKERSON

The contents of a shaman’s medicine bag, including rocks, shells, crystals, coca leaves and other talismans.

Quest Love

ENERGY HEALER COLLEEN MCCANN HEADS TO THE PERUVIAN ANDES ON A MYSTICAL JOURNEY NOVEMBER 2018 C 73

TRAVEL amethyst, lapis lazuli and rose quartz at her Style Rituals studios in Venice and New York, and at Golden Door immersive retreats. The former stylist’s new volume, Crystal Rx: Daily Rituals for Cultivating Calm, Achieving Your Goals, and Rocking Your Inner Gem Boss (Dey Street Books, $26), is a road map to mental, physical and spiritual realignment through minerals.

Los Angeles-based crystal reader Colleen McCann’s wanderlust and reverence for mysticism and ancient cultures compelled her to become a shamanic healer. She maps out the restorative powers of, say, citrine,

On an airplane, you can turn on electronics at 10,000 feet. My destination, the 200-year-old hut of a Q’ero shaman in the mountains of Peru, is well above that mark. That’s one way to wrap your mind around the idea of life at 16,000 feet. I sought out Peru for its power spots and for the stones in the ground: pyrite, pink opals, tektite, a dark gray limestone with a white quartz streak through it in the shape of a lightning bolt and more all came back with me.

Machu Picchu, one of the cradles of civilization, is a city built on quartz-rich

Clockwise from above: COLLEEN McCANN hiking along the Incan Trail at MACHU PICCHU. Chumpi stones are placed on McCann’s chakras at the ancient and sacred site of SACSAYHUAMAN (elevation 14,500) at the base of the Ausangate Mountain. McCann enjoys the PACCHANTA HOT SPRINGS. McCann getting her coca leaves read by a Q’ero shaman.

terrain. The towering southeastern Andes looming above the ancient city are home to the Q’ero, a vibrant indigenous community with shamans who are still very connected to the land and spirits of their Incan ancestors.

Getting acclimated to the region’s higher altitudes is crucial, so flying into Lima and on to Cuzco to journey through Peru’s Sacred Valley is the ideal prep for ascending into the Andes. Cuzco is 11,000 feet above sea level, so the air is thin enough.

You’re already in a dreamlike state when you land. Locals recommend chewing on coca leaves or sipping on coca tea to tame the jarring effects of lighter air. Here—I quickly learned—the leaves double as medicine, currency and hostess gifts; shamans even use them for prayers and readings.

AMY DICKERSON

Travel turn

LLAMAS AND ALPACAS ARE EVERYWHERE; THEY WEAR POMPOMS AND JEWELRY, AND THE WOMEN WALK WITH THEM. Wandering through the nearby Maras salt plots, llama-filled Písac textile markets and the Incan ruins of Ollantaytambo readies your body for the towering staircases of Machu Picchu. To rest up for each day trip—and fuel them—El Albergue Ollantaytambo hotel (elalbergue.com) has balcony rooms overlooking the train station and also houses a coffee roasting facility, farm, herb garden and distillery.

Chef Gabriel Velázquez’s pachamanca lunch of chicken, potatoes and herbs, all cooked in a traditional Incan underground earth oven, is an essential restorative. Panoramic PeruRail Vistadome trains (perurail.com) with glass ceilings for breathtaking mountain views run daily to Machu Picchu, where the Treehouse Lodge (treehouselodge.com) hovers above the Amazon rainforest. The spiritual

Travel turn

power of Machu Picchu is intense. Temples, living quarters and gardens all have different energy.

A daylong climb up Waman Lipa Mountain culminating on horseback and on foot finally brought me to the indigenous Q’ero villages, where the weather shifts every five minutes and huts appear out of the mists. There, a shaman threw down coca leaves, asked me to blow on them, then ran his hand through them for my reading.

Hannah Rae Porst, founder of nonprofit Willka Yachay (meaning sacred wisdom in the native language Quechua; willkayachay.org), which is helping to build schools for the village children, translated his personal words about my future as a condor soared above. • AS TOLD

TO EL I ZABET H VARNEL L

Clockwise from left: Baby alpaca between two Peruvian women in the SACRED VALLEY. McCann tries on her signature hot pink alpaca shawl— handmade, dyed and woven by the woman helping her adjust the fit. A Peruvian woman sitting in a doorway in the town of MARAS wearing a tall hat; hats dictate the region where the women are from.

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Roger’s Gardens

BRINGING BEAUTY INTO YOUR HOME & GARDEN

EDITED BY KELLY ATTERTON

PRODUCT: ROBERT MALMBERG. PLANT: ARYANA SUAREZ.

Beauty opener

From above: Plant extracts used in BOTNIA skincare products.

Flowering kale, grown on JUSTINE KAHN’s microfarm.

From the Ground Up

HOMEGROWN AND HARVESTED IN SAUSALITO, BOTNIA IS BOTTLED WITH THE PUREST INTENTIONS NOVEMBER 2018 C 77

After being dissatisfied in the quest to find the perfect organic ingredients for her all-natural skincare line Botnia, Justine Kahn found herself running a microfarm out of her Sausalito home.

Founder of San Francisco spa Skin Remedy Remedy, Kahn, who has training in cosmetic chemistry, enjoys complete control over the distillation and blending of her products, focusing on herbs and flowers with well-known healing properties (such as geranium and lavender).

She now grows the majority of her own ingredients for Botnia, supplemented by local farmers when necessary. Kahn’s products, while made of plants and flowers, are not loaded with essential oils, which are strong topically and can irritate the

skin. “We employ hydrosols, a diluted byproduct,” she explains. “They contain terpenes (hydrocarbons) and flavonoids (phytochemicals) that can heal the skin.” New for November: a limitededition chamomile hydrosol designed to calm acne and skin irritation of any kind.

In the treatment rooms at Skin Remedy, there’s a back bar of elements which Kahn and her associates pull from to create the perfect custom facial. Kahn, a professional aesthetician, quizzes her clients (no matter how many years they’ve been going to her) about their skin, then pinpoints specific, beneficial cocktails of botanicals to treat immediate issues, as well as working toward long-term goals.

“I love the term ‘slow beauty,’ ” she says.

“It takes time to build up the health of our clients’ skin and to see dramatic results.”

Skin Remedy, 3638 Sacramento St., S.F., 415-795-3252; skinremedysf.com; botniaskincare.com. • K . A .

JUSTINE KAHN at SKIN REMEDY with her botanical back bar. Left: Botnia Daily Face Wash, $35.

Beauty turn

BEVERLY HILLS

Perfume Genius Beverly Hills is now home to the fourth North American boutique for The House of Creed.. “With many influential West Coast clients, a maison, steps from Rodeo Drive, was essential,” says Erwin Creed, a seventh-generation House of Creed perfumer. Relying on an exclusive, ancient infusion technique to capture the raw and rare materials of each perfume, Creed has created a legacy of unrivaled scents. The shop opening coincides with the launch of its latest fragrance, Floralie, a delicate floral mix.

9533 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 424-355-0002; creedboutique.com. K.A .

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CREED‘s new Beverly Hills boutique. Below: Floralie, $415/2.5 oz.

DOC BLOCK Body Essential Sunscreen Lotion Broad Spectrum SPF 30, $39.

RAY Ban

Plastic surgeon Dr. Garth Fisher’s Doc Block line of suncare products combines UV filters with botanical butters to create a rich, moisturizing sunscreen that nourishes and protects. garthfisherbeauty.com. K . A .

KAHN: NANCY NEIL.

BEAUTY

Medmen

Clockwise: Forest bathing includes connecting with nature through sensoryopening activities.

Smelling flowers is part of the process. GAIGE HOUSE + RYOKAN’s off-site experience at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. Members of the FOREST BATHING CLUB gather at Lands End in San Francisco.

INTO THE WOODS Tree hugging was an affectionate Californian cliche in the ’60s. Fastforward 50 years, and the Japanese practice of shinrin-yoku (also known as forest bathing) is reuniting people with nature all over again. Made popular in the ’80s, forest bathing is all about utilizing your senses to become one with the outdoors. • Gaige House + Ryokan, a Japanese-inspired inn in Glen Ellen, offers it as an off-site activity at nearby Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. thegaigehouse.com. • In San Francisco, the Forest Bathing Club organizes guided nature walks and forest bathing events in Mill Valley and Ojai, among other locations. forestbathing.club. • The Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanic Garden presents sessions with certified

forest therapy guide Ben Page, who encourages participants to smell, listen and touch their surrounds. arboretum.org.

• Looking for even more inspiration?

Founded by Page, Shinrin Yoku L.A. lists forest bathing experiences in places such as Monrovia Canyon and Angeles National Forest that can be booked through Airbnb. shinrinyokula.com. F.T.

Beauty face BEVERLY HILLS

HEAD Space Light and Shades Beloved Japanese beauty brand Shiseido has reimagined its makeup range with 19 new products in 115 shades, focusing on vibrant colors, innovative textures and lasting performance. The collection has four categories: dews, gels, inks and powders. “Everything feels lightweight, while impactful with color,” says Patrick Ta, a celebrity makeup expert and Shiseido Global Color Artist. He recommends Aura Dew in Solar, a multidimensional color with a transparent base, which can be worn on face, lips and eyes. shiseido.com. K.A. Clockwise: SHISEIDO ModernMatte Powder Lipstick in Watermelon, $26. Daiya Fude Face Duo brush tool, $40. Minimalist WhippedPowder Blush in Chiyoko, $29.

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Located behind a hidden private entrance in the back alley of Camden Drive, Totalee on the Alley was designed for a more intimate experience for celebrity stylist Lee Rittiner and his clients, including Mila Kunis, Molly Sims and Chrissy Teigen. The jewelbox atelier’s debut coincides with the launch of Rittiner’s superfood-charged product line, Totalee, designed to deliver cleansed and coiffed hair in four steps. 420 N. Camden Dr., Unit A, Beverly Hills, 310-850-8503; totaleehair.com. K . A .

Inside TOTALEE ON THE ALLEY.

BEAUTY

FACE Off

ALCHEMY MARIN: JOSEPH ANTONETTI. TOMOKO SPA: TESSA NEUSTADT. LORI HOLLINGWORTH: PASCAL SHIRLEY. BOTANICA BAZAAR: MARC PATRICK/BFA. (OPPOSITE) FOREST BATHING FEET, FLOWERS AND WALKING (3): SUZANNE CHRISTINE. FOREST BATHING CLUB: DIANNA KANE. TOTALEE: COURTESY OF TOTALEE.

From massage to medical-grade treatments, here’s who to know, and where to go for glowing skin. Lori Hollingworth pulls from an arsenal of high-end tools (CACI nonsurgical facelifts, Intraceuticals Oxygen Treatment) and products (Biologique Recherché and Marie Veronique) to create custom

facials, splitting her time between a long-standing Brentwood location and her new space in Ojai. Starting at $195/90 minutes. Glo West, 306 E. Ojai Ave., Ojai, 310-990-8498; 11608 Chayote St., Unit 5, Brentwood; lorihollingworth.com.

Tomoko Spa in Beverly Hills recently added The Harisienne Facial Massage

to its beloved treatment menu and it’s sure to become a cult favorite. The service utilizes a head- and faceshaping technique (toganseibi) to deeply stimulate and massage all of the 31 muscles on the face and scalp, promoting serious lifting and anti-aging results (plus, it feels heavenly). $250/75 minutes. 141 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-205-7300; tomokospa.com.

Alchemy Marin’s loft space is a one-stop shop for medispa and wellness services.

Choose from a menu of the finest in highend, medical-grade treatments such as fillers, photofacials, peels and more. 925 Fourth St., San Rafael, 415-295-7953; alchemymarin.com. After a decade in Santa Monica, Arcona Studio has moved to a new Beverly Hills location, kitted out with a store and additions to the service menu including the Sculptural Deep Tissue Facelift Massage, which combines three techniques (sculpting facelift treatment, lymphatic drainage and buccal massage) to promote visibly lifted and plumper skin. $175/75 minutes. 236 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-458-3800; arcona.com. K . A .

Clockwise: Inside TOMOKO SPA. A CACI microcurrent treatment at LORI HOLLINGWORTH. The entrance to ALCHEMY MARIN.

Beauty creed Fuzz Buzz

PACIFIC PALISADES

Au Naturel

BOTANICA BAZAAR co-founders BETHANY MAYER (left) and LEILANI BISHOP.

Palisades Village is now home to beloved East Coast natural beauty boutique Botanica Bazaar. The light, airy space is loaded with carefully selected health and wellness products from coast to coast, spanning Vintner’s Daughter serum to Rahua haircare. 15203 Palisades Village, Pacific Palisades, 424-268-7791; botanicabazaar.com. K.A.

Dermaplaning, using a small, sharp blade to remove dead skin and peach fuzz, has long been an aesthetician’s tool. But doing it yourself?

Unfathomable, until Dermaflash, a revolutionary at-home facial exfoliation device that uses subtle, sonic vibration to remove dead skin cells and slough off builtup debris, while painlessly sweeping away unwanted hair. It’s similar to shaving, and despite common belief, the hair does not grow back thicker or darker. The device is now available in a chic, white version in collaboration with Violet Grey. violetgrey.com. K.A.

DERMAFLASH, 2.0 Luxe, $189.

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Apple’s Next Bite

THE WORLD’S MOST VALUABLE COMPANY WANTS TO SWALLOW HOLLYWOOD — Pre-Well AND YOUR TV All eyes were on the Steve Jobs Theater in Cupertino last September for the launch of Apple’s aptly named $1,500 iPhone XS Max—but the long-term future of the world’s most valuable company was being decided 350 miles away in Culver City, near Los Angeles. It’s there that Apple is gambling on the next big thing: an attempt to dominate Hollywood and the TV industry with it.

Apple is late to the movie and TV streaming party, which has already catapulted Netflix to the gilded status of the most valuable media company in the world and helped Amazon become the second company in history (after Apple) to reach a $1 trillion valuation. So Apple boss Tim Cook has been sparing no expense to make a splashy entrance: signing a multiyear deal with Oprah Winfrey for new programs, tapping Steven Spielberg to make a 10-episode series reboot of the science-fiction fantasy show Amazing Stories, and recruiting Jennifer Aniston and Reese Witherspoon

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apple

to star in a reported $12 million-anepisode drama set on a morning TV chat show. The makers of Sesame Street will create children’s programs.

Cook is ultimately in charge but has hired two top Sony Pictures Television executives, Jamie Erlicht and Zack Van Amburg, who oversaw series such as Breaking Bad and The Crown, to run his streaming

business. Also on board are Charlie Day and Rob McElhenney of another Netflix favorite, FX’s It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, who are making a new half-hour scripted comedy series. Damien Chazelle, Oscar-winning director of La La Land, is creating a new drama. Cook is said to have approved a budget of more than $1 billion for original video content this year, rising

ANDREW BECK

Pre-Well apple

to more than $4 billion in 2022. That’s less than Netflix and Amazon but a healthy enough start. And Apple has plenty more it could add to the pot: its cash pile totals more than $240 billion.

It might seem odd for Apple to make such a bold move just as it launches three new models of the most successful product of modern times: the iPhone. But the muted

response to the new XS phones—most reviewers have urged users to wait a year for fully new models, not simply tweaked and uprated versions of last year’s X— illustrates Apple’s predicament. Revenue from laptops and iPads, but most notably iPhones, is slowing down. Between April and July, it sold 52.2 million iPhones—a meager 3 percent increase on that same

period last year. Apple needs to find new income streams. That means content. The firm wants content and other services to generate $50 billion a year by 2021.

Apple has been famously late to each of the sectors it now dominates. It did not make the first desktop computer, the first smartphone, the first tablet computer or the first smartwatch. But it has become

NOVEMBER 2018 C 83

the most successful company in the history of modern capitalism by learning from the mistakes of the trailblazers and perfecting the user experience. There are signs it intends to pull off the same trick in TV. Apple—as it likes to do—is trying something new. It doesn’t plan on selling subscriptions to its video services through a separate app, as most other streaming services do. Instead, it will sell them directly via its TV app, alongside all other content apps, including those from third parties. Currently, its TV app aggregates content from other providers but consumers have to go to each provider’s app to watch shows.

Cook hopes seamless access to shows, coupled with “must watch” exclusive content, will give Apple the edge over other media players and also encourage Apple users to stick with their iPhones, iPads and Apple

were uninspiring. The longer Carpool format was too long for many fans used to snackable bites. It had hoped that Ryan Murphy’s new One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest-inspired series, Ratched, starring Sarah Paulson as the diabolical nurse, would be among its first shows.

The trouble is bold work is what newcomers need to get noticed in Hollywood, especially when they are playing catch-up. Netflix built its original-content business on House of Cards, a drama about an ethically bankrupt politician, and Orange Is the New Black, a comedic drama about a women’s prison. Both featured robust language, shocking set pieces and plenty of sex. Amazon has supported ambitious original series, such as The Romanoffs by Matthew Weiner, creator of Mad Men, and Mozart in the Jungle.

Apple has big rivals—for once, it finds itself a bit of a minnow—and they are investing heavily. Netflix, which now serves 125 million subscribers (a 25 percent increase from last year), is sinking $8 billion into content this year alone, more than twice as many as any other studio. It will make 700 original TV shows

TV boxes, instead of switching to other devices and hardware providers.

Can it work? Apple starts with a tailwind.

It already enjoys a huge audience on iTunes and Apple Music. Its commercial proposition is attractive to program makers. It does not want to own all its content, in contrast to Netflix and Amazon, which want total control, copyright and ownership.

But there are some big challenges.

Apple’s attempt to break into media content creation with the Apple Music radio station, Beats 1, hasn’t really worked.

Company executives claimed Beats 1 would become “the biggest radio station in the world,” but Apple hasn’t given any solid listener numbers. When Beats host and “face” Zane Lowe, who can pull in interviews with the biggest artists from Lady Gaga to Kendrick Lamar, was recently asked about ratings in an interview with the Los Angeles Times, he dodged the question.

Apple had early setbacks in TV, too.

The two projects it released in 2017, Planet of the Apps and Carpool Karaoke,

C 84 NOVEMBER 2018

But it was outbid by Netflix, which also recently landed producer Shonda Rhimes, whose ABC hits include Grey’s Anatomy and Scandal, in a pact reported by The New York Times to be worth $150 million over five years. It also signed Murphy, co-creator of American Horror Story, Pose and 9-1-1, to a five-year deal estimated to be worth up to $300 million.

Cook, whose favorite TV shows are relatively tame fare (Friday Night Lights and Madame Secretary), insists Apple content cannot be too edgy. Company insiders say he is worried that a negative reaction to a series could spark a consumer boycott of Apple’s core business. As The Wall Street Journal reports: He recently vetoed what would have been the firm’s first scripted drama, Vital Signs, a dark, semibiographical tale of hip-hop artist Dr. Dre, because it featured characters taking cocaine, an extended orgy and an abundance of guns.

Sex, violence and religion are out, he told Dre and his business partner Jimmy Iovine (the two co-founded the Beats headphones brand, which Apple acquired in 2014).

and 80 movies this year. It is also investing in more original kids’ programming and animated features.

Amazon’s Prime Video is a potentially vast up-and-coming competitor.

The streaming service had a total content budget of around $4.5 billion last year, and some have speculated it will outspend Netflix by 2021. It has enjoyed top ratings with series such as Transparent, and awards-friendly features such as Manchester by the Sea and The Death of Stalin. Amazon’s boss, Jeff Bezos, the world’s richest man, worth $150 billion, has a strong incentive to outbid his rivals—and not just because he can. New Prime Video customers do not simply generate new subscription revenue for Amazon. Prime members spend more on Amazon’s core e-commerce site. Bezos has already started flashing the checkbook. He recently paid $250 million to acquire the rights to create a multiseason TV prequel to J.R.R. Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings.

Disney, which is in the midst of its $71 billion takeover of Continued on p.118

ANDREW BECK

APPLE HAS BECOME THE MOST SUCCESSFUL COMPANY IN MODERN CAPITALISM BY LEARNING Pre-Well apple FROM THE MISTAKES OF THE TRAILBLAZERS.

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NOVEMBER2018

Feature opener

Don’t Stop Her

Feature Hailee

Now

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEAU GREALY CREATIVE AND FASHION DIRECTION

BY ALISON EDMOND

AT JUST 21, HAILEE STEINFELD IS ALREADY AN ACCOMPLISHED ACTOR AND MEGAWATT POP STAR. BUT THIS IS ONLY THE BEGINNING, SHE TELLS WRITER PETER DAVIS C 88 NOVEMBER 2018

BALMAIN top, $23,134.

POMELLATO earrings, $9,000. PIET HEIN EEK Zinc table, $5,500.

Opposite: SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO jumpsuit, price upon request, tank top, $490, and earrings, $1,995. ALEXANDRA JULES ring, $2,500.

Photographed at CASA PERFECT in Beverly Hills.

Feature Hailee

Feature Hailee

PACO RABANNE jacket, $520, and dress, $7,000. Opposite: ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER dress, $5,500.

ADIDAS jacket, $75. SERGIO ROSSI pumps, $695. BEN & AJA BLANC Meret Composition 3, $3,600.

Feature Hailee

At only 21, actor/pop star/campaign model and soon-to-be television star Hailee Steinfeld already has a master plan—one that could make her one of the most successful and famous entertainers of her generation.

She’s fresh off a summer tour as the opening act for Katy Perry in the U.K. “I was trying to take everything in and also trying not to cry and trying not to freak out,” Steinfeld says when she shows up for breakfast at Manhattan’s Public hotel in a black bodysuit and black pants with zippers racing across her legs. The outfit may look like she’s heading to a music video set, but she is actually on her way to a fitting for her first television series, Dickinson, a comedy directed by David Gordon Green and shot in New York, in which she plays the reclusive young poet Emily Dickinson, for the soon-to-launch Apple TV streaming platform (see our story on p.82).

“It’s a grind,” Steinfeld admits of her hectic schedule. “I would love to take a couple of months off and just live at home and clean my house and walk my dogs— stuff I never do. Just be with my family and maybe go on a vacation.”

Since she beat out 15,000 girls to win the role of Mattie Ross in the Coen brothers’ True Grit (2010) at age 13, which led to an Academy Award nomination for best supporting actress, Steinfeld has not stopped working. She’s run the gamut of movie genres, from big-budget sci-fi (Ender’s Game, 2013) to Shakespeare (Romeo & Juliet, 2013) to her Golden Globe-nominated role as Nadine Franklin, a teen who says she wants to commit suicide, in the indie The Edge of Seventeen (2016).

She is ambitious beyond her years, and it seems every career step has been shrewd and calculated: For one, rather than just deciding to become a pop singer on a whim, she made it her mission to land a role in Pitch Perfect 2 (2015) to both hone her singing skills and show audiences that she had the chops to actually be a singer. Like Barbra Streisand used Broadway musicals to launch her singing career, Steinfeld utilized film to achieve the same goal. “I was able to use [the film] as the perfect segue into music,” she says. “I signed with Republic Records and it all just happened from there.”

Feature Hailee

Feature Hailee

SPORTMAX dress, $2,745.

DAVID WEBB ring, $38,000.

Feature Hailee

OSCAR DE LA RENTA gown, $12,490. ADIDAS leggings, $40. PINCH Pendel sofa in PIERRE FREY Le Couple fabric, $6,280. Opposite: GUCCI dress, $6,500.

ALEXANDRA JULES sapphire ring, $1,850, and emerald ring, $2,550. GREATS slides, $89.

CHRISTIAN WOO Column bench, $6,000. ERIC ROINESTAD lamp, $12,000/pair.

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“WHEN IT COMES TO SOCIAL MEDIA, IT’S VERY EASY TO GET CAUGHT UP WITH WHAT PEOPLE ARE SAYING.” without you, yeah” she sings breathlessly). “Self-love is so powerful. When it comes to social media, it’s very easy to get caught up with what people are saying. You post it. You’re putting it out into the world to get some sort of reaction. If it’s something you love and that you’re confident with and not looking for validation through, then who cares what people are saying? And that plays a huge role in why that song was written.”

She uses Instagram sparingly. Sure, she will upload the occasional poutylipped glamour photo or goofy candid, but her feed predominantly consists of red carpet and on-set images, shots of her performing on stage and magazine covers—her strategy is to maximize social media to promote the Hailee Steinfeld brand to her 10.6 million followers.

Steinfeld has been photographed in Los Angeles with her rumored boyfriend, 25-year-old Niall Horan, one of the singers in the boy band One Direction and now a solo artist. Steinfeld won’t comment on her love life and she’s never posted a photo of herself with Horan.

But he makes an appearance on the set of our cover shoot. “When you see people getting photographed coming out of their doctor’s office, it’s as invasive as knowing who they are dating,” she reasons. “I feel lucky to have fans that are interested in who I am. But I keep my personal life very private. I always have because there is very little I have control over in that aspect and when it comes to my personal life, my family, my home—all of that— that’s for me.”

So back to business. For now, the music is on hold as she starts filming Dickinson in Brooklyn. She’s also about to promote her new film, the sixth Transformers installment, Bumblebee, which will be released on Dec. 21. Steinfeld stars as Charlie Watson, a fearless teen who takes in Bumblebee, a huge, but

friendly robot, then goes on the lam to protect Bumblebee from a government agency ominously known as Sector 7.

From the start, director Travis Knight was dead set on casting Steinfeld in the lead. “During my very first meeting with Paramount, I mentioned only one actor: Hailee Steinfeld,” Knight says. “In my mind, Hailee was Charlie. She is the true heart and soul of the film. She was so open, bringing her life experiences, observations, imagination and exceptional talent to all of her choices. Hailee has no fear.

Without uttering a word, she can break our hearts or lift our spirits.” Bumblebee is yet another example of Steinfeld showing off her range—moving from a big-budget sci-fi blockbuster to serious award season bait like Dickinson. Steinfeld’s master plan is all about proving that she can do it all.

Her unbridled spirit and drive were evident as a pre-teen growing up in Thousand Oaks, Calif., the daughter of Cheri, an interior designer, and Peter, a personal fitness trainer. The actor’s striking features—thick, dark hair; high cheekbones; and wide-set brown eyes— are the product of an eclectic background: She’s Jewish, Filipino and AfricanAmerican. Her father reads every script his daughter considers and her mother is always by her side—at breakfast she sits a few tables away. She has one older brother, Griffin, a race car enthusiast who has driven in NASCAR races and attends almost all of his younger sister’s premieres and awards shows alongside the whole family.

Steinfeld started acting in short films and commercials at the age of 10, but not before her parents insisted she take a year of acting classes before auditioning for a single role. “I think back to the moment when I went into my mom and dad’s office at home and said I wanted to be on TV. My mom said, ‘If you take acting classes for a year Continued on p.118

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.119. LOCATION: CASA PERFECT, BY APPOINTMENT ONLY 323-202-2025; THEFUTUREPERFECT.COM/LOS_ANGELES.

The list of successful singers-turnedactors is long (Madonna, Cher and, more recently, Lady Gaga), but actors who have become successful singers—think Jennifer Lopez and Donald Glover as Childish Gambino—are a rarer breed.

Steinfeld isn’t dissuaded by the Herculean task of becoming a performer who can literally do it all. She even plans to tackle theater. “I’ve always looked at that as the ultimate challenge. Theater in general, but musical theater would be pretty cool,” Steinfeld says.

In between making movies, she put out a single in 2015, the self-empowerment ballad “Love Myself,” which quickly hit platinum and left her millions of fans craving more. “Music had always been part of my plan,” she declares, sitting up straight like a young CEO addressing a board of directors.

“Music happens so fast. You come up with an idea, it turns into a song, then it turns into another song, then you have a single, then it’s on the radio, then you’re on tour.”

She debuted Haiz (2015), an EP which was titled after a nickname fans had given her online, and released more singles in the three years that followed, including the hit “Most Girls.” A fulllength album is still in the works— something her legion of fans beg for on social media. The original plan was to release an album this fall, but then Dickinson came along and now Steinfeld says she is going to take her time before releasing her debut record. “It’ll be worth it when I’m so ready and secure and confident—and every single song that’s on there I’ve taken my time with,” she explains assuredly. “That’s what I need to do. Slow it down and make it perfect. It’s the first time and I want it to be right.”

“Love Myself” turned the child star into a pop sensation and became an anthem for self-love, connecting her with young fans struggling for acceptance in a social media-driven world where likes have become a powerful currency. “That was definitely part of it,” Steinfeld says of the song’s message, despite some people believing the lyrics were about masturbation (“When I get chills at night/ I feel it deep inside without you, yeah/ Know how to satisfy/ Keeping that tempo right

Feature Hailee

TOM FORD jacket, $11,500, and trousers, $6,750. DAVID WEBB ring, $42,000. Tank, stylist’s own.

Makeup: SHISEIDO Minimalist WhippedPowder Blush in Eiko, $29, Kajal InkArtist in Birodo green, $25, MicroLiner Ink eyeliner in black, $22, and ImperialLash MascaraInk in black, $25. BEAUTYBLENDER Bounce liquid foundation, $40. CHANTECAILLE HD Perfecting Powder, $75. FRESH Tinted Lip Treatment in Sugar Honey, $24.

CAUDALIE Beauty Elixer, $49/100 mL. AUGUSTINUS BADER The Cream, $265/50 mL. Hair by GREGORY RUSSELL at The Wall Group using R+Co. Makeup by LOTTIE at Lowe and Co. using Shiseido.

Nails by TOM BACHIK.

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NANCY RUBINS stands between a small-scale model of Monochrome for Austin and one of her drawings in progress, which Rubins is making by taking unusually shaped pieces of paper, putting down layers and layers of graphite, and then pinning them to the walls, creating great clouds of shiny gray-blue paper.

FROM HER TOPANGA CANYON STUDIO, NANCY RUBINS CONJURES MAGIC OUT OF THE MUNDANE, HER WONDROUS SCULPTURES WOWING CROWDS ACROSS THE GLOBE. JUST DON’T ASK HER WHY SHE DOES IT PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARMEN CHAN WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER

Defying GRAVITY Feature Nancy

Halfway to Nancy Rubins’ studio in Topanga Canyon, the Uber driver starts to freak out. We are deep into westside wilderness, navigating hairpin curves on a steep, single-lane road that teeters on the edge of a shrub-scattered abyss.

After several forks, we pass through an electronic gate up a lane flanked by oaks and fruit trees to a large studio with garage doors on each side. Inside, a small-scale model from her Monochrome for Austin canoe piece sits in one corner, the bows pointed in different directions, like a star bursting. One of Rubins’ signature drawings is pinned to another wall in billowing waves. Outside, a mob of aluminum children’s play structures forms a huge 17-foot-tall arc that you can walk under. You get the feeling a typical studio with a roof and four walls would impede her fantastical ideas. She needs this perch atop a hill with its wide-open sky to allow her mind to travel, unencumbered.

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“Hello!” says Rubins, bounding over, her sparkling blue eyes framed by trademark fringe bangs. She’s dressed all in black with a jean jacket. Her hands are large and useful; you can tell she uses them for a living. “I’m a simple speaker,” the artist warns. And she isn’t wrong.

Over the hour we spend together, Rubins avoids talking about the meaning behind individual pieces or her place in the wider firmament that is the art world.

“How I contribute to the community?” she asks. “I do it by making art. You know what I mean?” It’s that simple for her. So I don’t take Rubins’ evasiveness as an affront. This is just her M.O. Even though she’s 65, Rubins hustles like a teenager. She’s recently been obsessed with playground figures and garden animals. She finished a major sculpture show in London at Gagosian entitled “Diversifolia,” which featured upside-down clusters of said animal statues, held together by wires; she installed Crocodylius Philodendrus, another pile of larger-than-life versions of the animals in brass, bronze, iron and aluminum, next to Norman Foster’s Gherkin building as part of London’s 2018 Sculpture in the City. She’s just installed a permanent sculpture, Monochrome II, one of

Clockwise: Rubins walks in front of Our Friend Fluid Metal.

She believes that the aluminum from the playground structures in Our Friend Fluid Metal may have been part of a fleet during World War II. Each artwork has an engineering playbook.

When Rubins is creating, she starts with the form, and the engineers help her turn it into a reality.

Feature Nancy

“YOU ARE GETTING A VISUAL PHYSICS LESSON IN A FUNNY WAY, YOU KNOW? YOU ARE SEEING THE EXACT AMOUNT OF STRUCTURE NECESSARY TO KEEP THAT IN SPACE AND IN PLACE.” her exploding starlike structures made of canoes, at the new Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in Arkansas.

And in November she will be honored at Manhattan’s MAD (Museum of Arts and Design) Ball.

Closer to home, in the courtyard above Los Angeles’ Museum of Contemporary Art, her sculpture made of 1,000 pounds of stainless steel and pieces of retired aircraft is on display. (She also has public works installed at the Whitney Museum of American Art and the FRAC Bourgogne in Dijon, France.) Her art is in the permanent

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collections at the world’s major art museums, from New York’s Museum of Modern Art and the Albright-Knox Art Gallery to Université Paris Diderot. To say she’s prolific is an understatement.

From the beginning, Rubins has been playing with objects with a past, amassing vast quantities, piecing them together and turning them into something lively and Lazarus-like. She started out in an industrial building south of Market Street in San Francisco in the late ’70s. In addition to sculpting, she was teaching painting at the San Francisco Art Institute and

waitressing. She even started a house painting company to make ends meet. It was a hardscrabble, hectic time. “I would get thousands of dollars of parking tickets,” she says, laughing.

Trawling the Goodwill with friends who were looking for vintage clothing, she eyed some old televisions that cost between 25 and 50 cents a pop. Some 300 TVs later, Rubins started building walls of them in the warehouse she called home. “I wasn’t very happy with them,” she admits.

“They never transcended their TV-ness.

There was a rigidity and formalism, and

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that wasn’t really the direction I was interested in going.” When an earthquake hit around the same time in San Francisco, and the walls of her studio were left rippled and undulating, she became fascinated. “In the right circumstances, something so strong and hard and rigid could behave like this fluid, graceful thing,” she says. She turned to cement mixed with expanded metal and then started adding in appliances.

It was in the early ’80s that the art world took notice. Her first public commission, Big Bil-Bored, a giant gunlike structure made from cement and studded with ancient appliances, was voted “Ugliest Sculpture in Chicago” in a radio poll. Rubins was tickled by the reaction. “The client was delighted because it showed his shopping center on the national news,” she recalls. “People went out of their minds.” She pulls up another controversial early work on the computer. Worlds Apart (1982) was a giant, 40-foot-tall, thought-bubble-shaped mass of cement and appliances that was positioned in front of the Watergate complex in Washington, D.C. Since then, most of her works are tasked by museums or installed in

public places after they are created. I suspect that the traditional process of working with multiple committees, getting buy-in, and explaining the meaning behind a work of art does not seem like the way she prefers to do things.

“She’s the ultimate formalist,” says Stephanie Barron, senior curator and department head of modern art at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. “Nancy is interested in formal qualities—the engineering, the balance of the objects. Looking at the sculptures, you have to wonder, ‘Is it going to fall down?’

That tension between the viewer and the sculpture mirrors the tension in the wires that hold up the elements of the sculpture.”

When Rubins moved to Los Angeles in 1982, living on Sixth and San Pedro streets, she started rethinking her work. While some artists might have toned down their oeuvre, Rubins focused on larger shapes, looking for new, exotic forms to play with. She flips through images of works hewn out of trailers, water heaters and airplane parts.

“They look like big…swollen…appliances,” she says with intensity. Half of the job, she admits, is tracking down these unusual materials. It’s not a problem. She describes herself as a “tenacious person.”

“There’s always a guy,” she says. “They are happy to see me.” But the rigor of scavenging for retired appliances and the ardor behind their assembly fades into the background when you see the finished works firsthand. The quotidian objects and industrial materials coalescing into largescale abstract shapes are what can only be described as beautiful cacophonies.

Critics cite the California assemblage tradition and collage as an influence, along with sculptors such as Robert Rauschenberg and John Chamberlain. There’s also a hint of the absurd in her foundobject creations, a nod to Simon Rodia’s Watts Towers. Continued on p.118

“ABUNDANCE HAS ALWAYS BEEN IN MY PLAYBOOK.”

From top: A box of the graphite pencils Rubins uses for her drawings.

Mattresses and Cakes, 1993. Rubins used a machine that bales hay to turn the mattresses into abstract forms.

Rubins. Opposite: One of her signature drawings that take on a sculptural form.

MATTRESSES AND CAKES: ©NANCY RUBINS; COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND GAGOSIAN.

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Feature Nancy

Clockwise from top left: PIAGET tourmaline ring, $30,500. DAVID YURMAN kunzite and pink and white diamond earrings, price upon request.

DE BEERS yellow diamond bracelet, price upon request.

BUCCELLATI tsavorite and brilliantcut diamond ring, price upon request.

Opposite: DAVID WEBB cushion-cut kunzite ring, $38,500.

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BOLD, BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL STONES SPAN THE SPECTRUM IN THE SEASON’S FINEST JEWELS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MOLLY CRANNA STYLING BY REBECCA RUSSELL C 00 NOVEMBER 2018

CREDITS

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Feature Jewelry From top: POMELLATO bracelet, $7,100.

TIFFANY & CO. necklace, $110,000. Opposite: BULGARI necklace, $64,000. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS necklace, price upon request.

From top: CARTIER rubellite and diamond necklace, price upon request. BULGARI tanzanite and blue topaz necklace, $64,000. Opposite, from top: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS pink and mauve sapphire necklace, price upon request. TIFFANY & CO. pink tourmaline necklace, $110,000.

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MONTH 2018 C 00

Feature Jewelry

POMELLATO emerald bracelet, $7,100.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: GRAFF yellow diamond ring, price upon request.

HARRY WINSTON pink sapphire earrings, price upon request. MARCO BICEGO semiprecious gemstone bracelet, $10,270. JOHN HARDY smoky quartz ring, price upon request. HARRY KOTLAR yellow diamond earrings, $43,810.

CHOPARD emerald and diamond earrings, price upon request.

SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.119.

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MONTH 2018 C 00

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Perfect Setting

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JEET SOHAL, her husband, ERIC ANDERSEN, and their three boys—Kieran, Simran and Taran—on their Victorian-style porch.

HOW ONE JEWELRY DESIGNER FOUND A HIDDEN GEM IN HISTORIC HANCOCK PARK AND POLISHED IT TO PERFECTION PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAM FROST

WRITTEN BY ALEXANDRIA ABRAMIAN

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Jeet Sohal’s Bare Collection jewelry is a study in simplicity: Her understated necklaces, rings, earrings and bracelets, which count Beyoncé and Anne Hathaway as ardent admirers, offer a quiet reprieve from eye-blinding bling. Enter Sohal’s home, however, and one thing becomes immediately apparent: Less is

definitely not more inside this historic Hancock Park house, where art and furnishings in a profusion of eras and materials keep lively company in the 6,000-square-foot compound.

“I think I’m a minimalist without possessions, but the truth is, I cannot go past an antique store without going in,” says Sohal, sitting at her dining room table, where brass Italian midcentury chairs converse with a pair of antique Thonet chairs, a carved African ceremonial seat and vintage, hand-painted Stakmore folding spare chairs. The walls behind her feature intricate wood paneling and handpainted, pressed-leather relief work. Not exactly the stuff of a Spartan sanctuary.

Call it a case of contrasting aesthetics.

In her home studio, located in a converted laundry room behind the house, she crafts 14-karat and 18-karat gold jewelry featuring precious and semiprecious stones, which she sells at the likes of Des Kohan and Saks Fifth Avenue. Built by designercontractor Tracy McCormick, the space’s exposed brick, unfinished wood and concrete floors make for an almost entirely blank canvas upon which Sohal can create.

Enter the main house, however, and the environment explodes with color, shapes and textures. In the living room, verdigris green walls are adorned with gilded ornamentation and layered with vintage and contemporary art; brocaded silk draperies festoon windows; and a pile of oversized pillows from Jaipur, India,

A HORCHOW cabinet with built-in fridge functions as an easy-access bar for entertaining. Opposite, clockwise from top: The sunroom features original BATCHELDER floor tiles. Sumptuous draperies inherited from previous owners are used in the living room. Original handcarved mahogany wood paneling keeps its luster in the foyer and stairwell.

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Feature house

In the living room, verdigris green walls set the backdrop for a mix of color and pattern that includes a pair of vintage chairs from ARREDAMENTI CORALLO and a painting by artist DANVY PHAM above the fireplace.

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A piece by artist NELSON DE LA NUEZ provides pop in the dining room. Opposite, clockwise from top: In the master bedroom, Sohal selected FARROW & BALL Down Pipe blue for the walls, a pair of ROBERTO GIULIO RIDA sconces and a DOUGLAS BROTHERS photograph. The property’s former laundry room now functions as Sohal’s home studio for making her BARE COLLECTION jewelry.

(Her other studio is located in Downtown Los Angeles.)

The greenhouse is filled with succulents and other plants.

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are stacked in front of the fireplace. One of the room’s few neutral pieces—a curved, gray wood-and-wool tweed sofa created by Danish designer Arne Jacobsen—will soon be upholstered in bejeweled Indian textiles made from wedding saris. “I am inspired by craftsmanship,” says Sohal.

Which may explain why she and her husband, investor Eric Andersen, purchased the property for themselves and their three sons in the first place. Known as Windsor Estate, the Mediterranean Revival home is built on land originally owned by the Janss family (credited with

developing UCLA, Westwood Village, Yorba Linda and more). Built exactly 100 years ago, it stands as a stunningly maintained testament to architectural skill. Previous owners of the property include silent film actress Dolores Costello (grandmother to Drew Barrymore).

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Yet beautiful bones and a storied pedigree weren’t the property’s only selling points. There was also its location, with Sohal’s parents, brother and sister in various homes, all just a few blocks away.

“This is where I grew up,” says Sohal, who went to nearby Marlborough School in Los Angeles and later attended Dartmouth College in Hanover, N.H., where she earned a degree in political science.

After purchasing the home five years ago, the couple gradually filled it with furniture and art, mixing antique, vintage and contemporary pieces with a fortuitous emphasis on midcentury Italian.

“I like furniture that looks like sculpture, but it has to be functional. With three boys, I can’t buy anything that’s too precious,” she says. Case in point: the sunroom’s Marco Zanuso chairs, which the children—Kieran, 9, Simran, 7, and Taran, 5—regularly position in full recliner mode, the better to lie back with a book. “[Those chairs] are next for reupholstery,” says Sohal.

The balancing act of honoring the home’s provenance, while updating it to function as a modern retreat in which to entertain and raise a family, was particularly important for the outdoor areas. The couple enlisted landscape architect Julia Schmidt to transform a semicircular driveway into a kids’ play space and edible garden by enclosing part of the property with a wall made to match the original facade.

“That mindfulness in anything we change is really important in this house,” says Sohal. “For a lot of home projects, I take a normal to-do list and make it about a thousand times longer.”

When it came to the question of repairing and replacing the original stripping of some of the windows, Sohal kept the project in-house and headed straight to her own studio. “The weather stripping in this house is copper and brass strips.

Since I am a jeweler and a maker, I was able to do that myself,” she says. “It’s fair to say I’ve never met a glittery surface that I didn’t love.” •

APPLE’S NEXT BITE CONTINUED FROM P.82

21st Century Fox, is pulling its top content from Netflix and other streaming services and starting its own service. The megastudio’s ESPN+ sports streaming service has already lured 1 million subscribers since it debuted last April. Disney will soon launch its own drama-streaming network, withdrawing its films—including the Marvel Cinematic Universe—from Netflix.

There are new series based on characters, likely to include Loki and Scarlet Witch, in the offing. The Marvel shows will join a slate that includes a Star Wars vehicle, created by veteran Marvel and Disney hitmaker Jon Favreau, which will be set in the time between Return of the Jedi and The Force Awakens. It is rumored to cost around $100 million, rivaling the cost of Netflix’s most lavish creation, the multi Emmy-winning drama The Crown.

Spotify and Hulu, patrons of the awardwinning drama The Handmaid’s Tale, have teamed up to create a rival multiservice platform. For the same subscription fee, users can access both services: Spotify’s catalog of 40 million-plus songs and Hulu’s 75,000 TV show episodes across 1,700 titles. Facebook is also softly launching Facebook Watch, an entertainment service that features stars including Bear Grylls.

Small wonder the B plot at the Emmys in September was the race to see whether HBO would keep its title as the nation’s leader in prestige television. That night Netflix beat HBO, taking home seven statuettes to HBO’s six. Amazon and FX tied for second in the broadcast with five wins each.

The message was clear. The streaming studios have finally reached equal footing with their network and cable peers—and they’ve done it in a 10th of the time that the old-school big boys have been around. By the 2020 Emmys, could it be Apple knocking Netflix off the top of the tree?

Tune—sorry, sign in to find out. •

DON’T STOP HER NOW CONTINUED FROM P.96

and you stay with it, then we will look into it,’” she remembers, adding that her childhood passions changed frequently.

“Up until that point, it was a new thing every week and my parents would fully

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support whatever it was. It was horseback riding and they would buy the three months worth of lessons and the gear—and then it was dance. It was just something new all the time. She put her foot down and said, ‘If you want this, you have to show us.’ And, sure enough, a year later I was still doing it.”

It was Cheri who found out about True Grit and searched tirelessly online for the audition sides (script excerpts) for her daughter to study. Miraculously, Cheri found the lines and helped her daughter master them. Steinfeld was preparing to put herself on tape when her agent managed to score her a last-minute audition.

“Thank God I had been preparing because had I not, I would have had less than 24 hours notice,” she recalls, her eyes widening. “I went in and had three auditions over the course of a month and after my last one, a week later, I was on a plane. It was unreal.”

Instant stardom followed and an Oscar nomination. The whirlwind of acclaim and attention was overwhelming for a 13-year-old who had only made one feature film. “Every person I encountered in that year of the awards season would say to me, ‘This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.’ When I was 13, that went in one ear and out the other,” she admits.

“I understood that it was the highest honor that you could receive. That was about it. And I understood that you got to wear a lot of really fun things.”

Cheri helped keep her daughter grounded and focused, and she has been a guiding force in both life and career.

After sixth grade, Steinfeld was homeschooled so she could continue to make films. “The whole classroom setting wasn’t for me,” she confesses. “It was always about who else is in the class and who finishes the test first and who’s wearing what. It was just too much for me.” Cheri became her professor, not only teaching her daughter academics, but also maneuvering her career carefully. “My mom is superwoman,” she enthuses, glancing lovingly over at her across the room. “I would not be here without her. It’s crazy to see how far we’ve come. She’s incredible. She’s my everything.”

When Steinfeld is not working— yes, she fits in a day or two off—she’s

Runover

recharging at her place on the west side of L.A. For her, California, like life itself, is about the possibilities it presents. “Having access to anything you want is a beautiful thing,” she says. •

DEFYING GRAVITY CONTINUED FROM P.102

These spacelike forms push the limits of what you expect from materials.

Of course, she won’t comment on any influences. Instead she wants to show me the nuts and bolts of how these pieces come to life and queues up a time-lapse video of Big Pleasure Point being built in New York’s Lincoln Center in 2006. After working with airplane parts, Rubins had gotten turned onto boats, thanks to admiring a canoe belonging to her late husband, artist Chris Burden. “I remember saying, ‘Oh, it looks like my airplane parts,’ and he said, ‘You know, it’s made

by Northrop Grumman (the aerospace and defense company).’” (Beehive Bunker, a 2006 work of art by Burden, is atop one of the neighboring hills in Topanga.)

Something clicked and she started playing with the pointy, parabolic shapes.

The name Big Pleasure Point came from the rental place where she had picked up the obsolete materials. In the video, which is largely filmed at night, you watch as 60 kayaks, canoes, rowboats, surfboards, windsurfing boards, motorboats, sailboats and even paddleboats are hoisted up and cabled to a 28-foot-high steel armature over a period of one week.

For Rubins, it’s the dimensions of the raw materials that propel her to work at such a scale. “It’s not going to work if you use 10 or 15 of them; you need a lot of them,” she explains. “Abundance has always been in my playbook. And that’s part of what makes California so attractive to me.”

“I have a great engineer,” she adds as we walk outside. Rubins has worked with the same team of five technicians (who wear gear and climb over the sculpture like it’s a big tree) for decades. And she needs them. The pieces are made almost like suspension bridges, with multiple layers of redundancy.

In front of us is Our Friend Fluid Metal, the aforementioned 17-foot-tall arc from her eponymous New York series that

glistens in the afternoon light. The cantilevered sculpture seems to hover over the concrete courtyard, casting a long shadow. “You are getting a visual physics lesson in a funny way, you know?” she explains. “You are seeing the exact amount of structure necessary to keep that in space and in place.”

The finished work is so dense and painterly, you get lost inside it. In particular, the works from the Our Friend Fluid Metal series and “Diversifolia” evoke a certain pathos, a childhood gone awry, calling to mind the works of Mike Kelley or Paul McCarthy. With the playground animals, she’s transformed figurative elements into abstraction. “I was kind of concerned about them,” she says, thoughtfully. “They were kind of cartoony, and they are super thick.

I’m used to working with airplanes, boats, mobile homes.”

Rubins squints, focusing on the form.

“You know what I love most?” she asks.

“The tendrils that you see when you stand under it…delicate tendrils that fly out in space above your head.” And whatever else you make of it is totally up to you—Rubins’ orders. •

SHOPPING GUIDE

270-9440; tomford.com. Alexandre Vauthier black nappa low boots with Swarovski detail, price upon request, Just One Eye, L.A., 323-969-9129.

Dena Kemp 18-karat black rhodium cuff, price upon request; denakempjewelry.com. Aquazzura Disco slingback pumps in white calf hair and black suede, $1,150; aquazzura.com. Sonia Rykiel small chain handbag with velour pouch, $2,910, Just One Eye, L.A., 323-969-9129. Saint Laurent

by Anthony Vaccarello Smoking Twisted torque bracelet in silver-tone metal with black enamel and white crystals, $1,495, Saint Laurent, Beverly Hills, 310-271-5051.

GILTY PLEASURE p.52 Chanel Fine Jewelry Sous le Signe du Lion cuff in 18-karat yellow gold, $27,700, Chanel, Beverly Hills, 310-278-5500. Tacori x Who What Wear Swords pair earrings in 10-karat yellow gold, $390; tacori.com/lovelosangeles. Jacquemus Yasmin earrings, $440; jacquemus.com.

Forevermark by Rahaminov Diamonds diamond tag pendant set in 18-karat yellow gold, price upon request; forevermark.com. Chan Luu yellow gold Petite Hammered Cymbal earrings, $145, Chan Luu, L.A., 424-313-8505; chanluu.com.

Lauren Wolf Jewelry 14-karat gold stingray signet ring, $1,150, Esqueleto, Oakland, 510-629-6216; shopesqueleto.com. Sheryl Lowe 14-karat square chain bracelet, $3,050; sheryllowejewelry.com.

Azlee Aurum baguette diamond Nugget charm, $2,150; azleejewelry.com. Effy Jewelry 14-karat yellow gold and diamond ring, $2,097; effyjewelry.com.Larisa Laivins 18-karat yellow gold and diamond hand-carved California ring, $1,820, Sunroom, Malibu, 310-317-0944; larisalaivins.com. Gorjana Lightning charm stud earrings, $35; gorjana.com. Annie Costello Brown Mika XL earrings, $334; anniecostellobrown.com.

Ellery De Woody chain necklace, $350; us.ellery. com. Katkim Petal ring, 18-karat yellow gold, $1,600, The Celect, L.A., 949-500-5073; katkimfinejewelry.com.

bench, $6,000. Eric Roinestad lamp, $12,000/ pair; thefutureperfect.com. p.97 Tom Ford Candy Red Jaguar velvet embroidered menswear jacket, $11,500, and trousers, $6,750, Tom Ford, Beverly Hills, 310-270-9440; tomford.com. David Webb Sugarloaf cabochon coral, sapphires, diamonds and 18-karat gold ring, $42,000, David Webb, Beverly Hills, 310-858-8006; davidwebb.com.

Makeup: Shiseido Minimalist WhippedPowder Blush in Eiko, $29, Kajal InkArtist in Birodo green, $25, MicroLiner Ink eyeliner in black, $22, and ImperialLash MascaraInk in black, $25; shiseido.com. Beautyblender Bounce liquid foundation, $40; beautyblender.com. Chantecaille HD Perfecting Powder, $75; chantecaille.com.

Fresh Tinted Lip Treatment in Sugar Honey, $24; fresh.com. Caudalie Beauty Elixer, $49/100 mL; us.caudalie.com. Augustinus Bader The Cream, $265/50 mL; augustinusbader.com.

TRUE COLORS p.87 Harry Winston pink sapphire earrings in platinum, price upon request, Harry Winston, Beverly Hills, 310-271-8554. p.104 Piaget Limelight Cocktail Party tourmaline ring, $30,500, Piaget, Costa Mesa, 714-361-2020; piaget.com.

David Yurman High Jewelry Gems earrings with kunzite and pink and white diamonds, price upon request, David Yurman, Beverly Hills, 310888-8618; davidyurman.com. De Beers yellow Aura oval bracelet with yellow diamonds and set in 18-karat white gold, price upon request; debeers.com. Bucalletti Botoletta cocktail ring in 18-karat yellow, white and rose gold with kunzite, tsavorites and diamonds, price upon request, Bucalletti, Beverly Hills, 310-276-7022. p.105 David Webb Vienna ring with cushion-cut kunzite, baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds, faceted rock crystal, 18-karat gold, and platinum, $38,500, David Webb, Beverly Hills, 310-858-8006; davidwebb. com. p.106 Cartier High Jewelry platinum necklace with rubellite, onyx and diamonds, price upon request, Cartier, Beverly Hills, 310-275-4272.

Bulgari Divas’ Dream necklace in 18-karat white gold with tanzanite, blue topaz and diamonds, $64,000, Bulgari, Beverly Hills, 310-858-9216. p.107 Van Cleef & Arpels Folie des Prés necklace with diamonds and pink and mauve sapphires set in 18-karat white gold, price upon request, Van Cleef & Arpels, Costa Mesa, 714-545-9500. Tiffany & Co. pendant in platinum with a pink tourmaline, $110,000; tiffany.com. p.108 Graff fancy intense yellow diamond ring, price upon request, Graff, Saks Fifth Avenue, Beverly Hills, 310205-2400; graffdiamonds.com. Harry Winston pink sapphire earrings in platinum, price upon request, Harry Winston, Beverly Hills, 310-271-8554. Marco Bicego Jaipur bracelet hand-engraved in 18-karat yellow gold with mixed semiprecious gemstones, $10,260, Saks Fifth Avenue, S.F., 415-986-4300. John Hardy Women’s Classic Chain silver Dome ring with smoky quartz, price upon request, John Hardy, Costa Mesa, 714-549-2356. Harry Kotlar Arabesque earrings with light yellow diamonds in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold, $43,810, Shreve & Co., S.F., 415-421-2600; harrykotlar.com.

Chopard Precious Collection earrings with emeralds and diamonds set in 18-karat white gold, price upon request, Chopard, Costa Mesa, 714-432-0963. p.109 Pomellato Tango rose gold and emerald bracelet, $7,100, Pomellato, Beverly Hills, 310-550-5639.

Shopping Guide

COVER Michael Kors Collection black sequin stretch jersey gown, $12,995, Michael Kors, Beverly Hills, 310-777-8862. Pomellato Iconica rose gold and diamond ring, $6,550, Pomellato, Beverly Hills, 310-550-5639.

CRYSTAL GAZE p.50 Christopher Kane Crystal Drip heels, $1,195; christopherkane.com. Roger Vivier evening diamond embellished Boîte de Nuit satin clutch with embellished strass bow crystals, $3,850, Roger Vivier, Costa Mesa, 714-435-0015; rogervivier.com. Hermès Heure H timepiece with half-set case, extra-wide grained white calf strap, $9,250, Hermès, Beverly Hills, 310-2786440. Alchimia di Ballin Ruta satin boots, $895, Barneys New York, Beverly Hills, 323-761-5255.

Forevermark by Natalie K Spike diamond drop earrings in 18-karat white gold with black rhodium finish, price upon request; forevermark.com. Gucci crystal hat, $5,500, Gucci, Beverly Hills, 310-278-3451; gucci.com. Emmanuel Tarpin Seashell earrings in 18-karat yellow gold and colored aluminum with white diamonds, handmade in Paris, one-of-a-kind piece, $130,000; modaoperandi.com. Charlotte Olympia Rising Star black platform sandals, $1,110; charlotteolympia.com. Oscar de la Renta black embroidered Billiard clutch, $1,990, Oscar de la Renta, L.A., 323-653-0200; oscardelarenta.com.

Vhernier Pirouette ring in 18-karat white gold and diamonds, $65,000, Vhernier, Beverly Hills, 310273-2444. Tom Ford Disco quilted crystal small Natalia bag, $3,250, Tom Ford, Beverly Hills, 310-

DON’T STOP HER NOW p.88 Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello satin embellished and beaded jumpsuit, price upon request, black cotton tank top, $490, and fishbone earrings, $1,995, Saint Laurent, Beverly Hills, 310-271-5051. Alexandra Jules diamond Forever ring, $2,500; alexandrajules.com. p.89 Balmain palm tree embroidered top, $23,134, Balmain, L.A., 323-230-6364; balmain.com. Pomellato Tango blue zircon earrings, $9,000, Pomellato, Beverly Hills, 310-550-5639. Piet Hein Eek Zinc table, $5,500; thefutureperfect.com. p.90 Paco Rabanne fleece faux fur jacket, $520, and dress with round aluminum pastilles with mirror effect, $7,000, Barneys New York, Beverly Hills, 310-276-4400; barneys.com. p.91 Alexandre Vauthier red crystalized dress, $5,500, Just One Eye, L.A., 323-969-9129. Adidas SST track jacket, $75; adidas.com. Sergio Rossi Milano red crackle leather pumps, $695; sergiorossi.com.

Ben & Aja Blanc Meret Composition 3, $3,600; thefutureperfect.com. p.92 Sportmax sleeveless sequin embroidered tank dress, $2,745, Max Mara, Beverly Hills, 310-385-9343. David Webb emerald, diamonds, black enamel and 18-karat gold ring, $38,000, David Webb, Beverly Hills, 310-858-8006; davidwebb.com. p.94 Oscar de la Renta sequin Fish Scale embroidered tulle gown, $12,490, Oscar de la Renta, L.A., 323-653-0200. Adidas 3-Stripes legging, $40; adidas.com. Pinch Pendel sofa in Pierre Frey Le Couple fabric, $6,280; thefutureperfect.com. p.95 Gucci iridescent blue-green Cady Lurex dress with oversize puffed sleeves and self-fabric bows on the front, $6,500, Gucci, Beverly Hills, 310-278-3451. Alexandra Jules square sapphire Skinni ring, $1,850, and square emerald Skinni ring, $2,550; alexandrajules.com. Greats Blanco slides, $89; greats.com. Christian Woo Column

PHOTO FINISH p.122 Brunello Cucinelli denim jumpsuit, $3,695, Brunello Cucinelli, S.F., 415-982-1200. Cartier Love ring in 18-karat white gold, $1,770, Cartier, Beverly Hills, 310-275-4272. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat white gold square studs, $425, Jennifer Meyer, Palisades Village, 310-230-1271. Christian Louboutin So Kate black patent leather pump, $725, Christian Louboutin, L.A., 310-247-9300.

C Magazine November 2018 is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 460248, Escondido, CA 92046. Subscriptions Telephone 800-775-3066 or E-mail subscribe@magazinec.com. Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., add $15 postage. Single copies available at newsstands and other magazine outlets throughout the United States.

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CARMEL A CITY BY THE SEA, DOTTED WITH COTTAGES AND CYPRESS TREES, INSPIRES A RELAXING WEEKEND AWASH IN MOSSY GREENS AND CAMO

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A Monterey cypress tree on a beach in CARMEL.

EDITED BY ANUSH BENLIYAN AND REBECCA RUSSELL 1. MARNI platform sandals, $990, Marni, L.A. 2. HAYWARD Mini Shopper in Venetian silk jacquard, $790, haywardluxury.com.

3. LA LIGNE X REFORMATION Never Let Me Go sweater, $228, thereformation.com. 4. THEORY Plaid Cardinal trousers, $395, Theory, L.A. 5. CHANTECAILLE Protect the Wolves Eye Shade Trio, $70, chantecaille.com. 6. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Liquid velvet jacket with monili and belt, $4,495, brunellocucinelli.com. 7. BASSIKE one-shoulder one-piece, $250, Bassike, Venice. 8. CHRISTIAN DIOR Fall/Winter 2018. 9. FRANK FAMILY VINEYARDS Blanc de Blancs, $55, frankfamilyvineyards.com. 10. ETRO leather belt with embroidered jeweled buckle, $700, etro.com.

11. BARNEYS NEW YORK backgammon set, $995, barneys.com.

12. DRIES VAN NOTEN Forest leather bag, $1,305, barneys.com.

13. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Ostrich over-the-knee boots, $5,900, Salvatore Ferragamo, Beverly Hills.

14. IENKI IENKI Poodle printed nylon jacket in classic camo, $1,440, barneys.com. 15. RALPH LAUREN Fall/Winter 2018. 16. R13 Fall/Winter 2018. 17. STAUB castiron round cocotte, $285/4 quarts, williams-sonoma.com. 18. ATELIER SYLVIE SAINT-ANDRE PERRIN platter, $795, johnderian.com.

19. BRABBU Gerard Ocean pillow, $330, 1stdibs.com. 20. BURBERRY The Large Leather Belt bag, $2,590, us.burberry.com.

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C Insider CARISSA DUNCAN

“It wasn’t until I traveled the world and came back to the Monterey Peninsula that I truly appreciated this place for the natural wonder that it is,” says designer Carissa Duncan. After spells in Napa Valley and San Francisco, she returned in 2014 to her hometown of Carmel to launch her integrated design studio, Salt + Bones (salt-bones .com). Duncan’s moody, earthy aesthetic can be seen at Big Sur’s Esalen Institute and the recently renovated Casa Madrona Hotel & Spa in Sausalito, in addition to private residences across the country.

Here, the principal shares her musts in and around Carmel.

• The Stationaery is a great new café and creative space owned by power couple Anthony and Alissa Carnazzo. thestationaery .com. • Downtown’s Akaoni for an authentic Japanese sushi experience. Mission Street and Sixth Avenue, Carmel.

• Garland Ranch Regional Park is a great hiking spot on the way to Carmel Valley. • Tancredi & Morgen is my favorite familyowned home goods and apparel shop. tancrediandmorgen.com.

• Tassajara in the Ventana Wilderness is a Buddhist monastery with natural hot springs and amazing vegetarian food—the ultimate retreat. sfzc.org/tassajara.

• I gravitate toward the historic Weston Gallery for its purity and beautiful black-and-white photography. westongallery.com.

PHOTO finish BRUNELLO CUCINELLI jumpsuit, $3,695.

CARTIER ring, $1,770. JENNIFER MEYER earrings, $425. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN pumps, $725.

SAMANTHA THOMAS

C 122 NOVEMBER 2018

Photo Finish PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION STYLING BY REBECCA RUSSELL

Don’t be fooled by Samantha Thomas’ seemingly chilled-out disposition. “Internally, I’m obsessive,” the contemporary artist insists, “but it’s a good dichotomy, because it comes through in the work.” While Thomas grew up with an easel in her mother’s art studio in Texas, the 37-year-old didn’t embrace her own creativity until the age of 18, when she decided to forgo a golf scholarship at Oklahoma’s University of Tulsa in favor of pursuing art, which led her to the ArtCenter College of Design in Pasadena. She then then worked worked for seven for seven yearsyears as abstract as abstract expressionist expressionist Ed Moses’ Edstudio Moses’ studio manager manager before focusing before focusing on her on her own paintings. own paintings.

Thomas’ Thomas’ work work has since has since been featured been featured at the at the Museum Museum of Contemporary of Contemporary Art, Art, Anat Anat EbgiEbgi and Maccarone and Maccarone in Los in Los Angeles, Angeles, and in and November, this month, she’ll she’llherself find find herself in Mexico in Mexico City for Cityexhibition, an for an exhibition, later followed followed by a by a residency residency in Oaxaca. in Oaxaca.

Of her Ofthreeher three-dimensional dimensional pieces, composed pieces, composed of deconstructed of deconstructed traditional traditional painting materials, paintingThomas materials, says, Thomas “I’m always says,trying “I’m to always subvert trying the to subvertsothe material, when material, people solook when at people it and think look it’s at itplastic, and think rubber it’s or plastic, rubber latex—it’s just canvas or latex—it’s and paint.” just canvas She adds and that paint.” she’s She “trying saystothat she’s “trying create desire to forcreate the viewer desiretofor the viewer want to touch to want the work.” to touch She the work.” She laughs, thenlaughs, clarifies, then “I don’t clarifies, “I don’t actually wantactually anyonewant to touch any-it.” one to Thomas’ While touch it.”studio WhileisThomas’ based in studioMid-City, L.A.’s is based in she L.A.’s callsMidMalibu City, she home.

“Acalls goodMalibu day is home. bookended “A good surfing,” with day is bookended she says. with “The surfing,” water is the sheonly says.place “Thewhere water I can is the only release my place thoughts where andI process can release what I’ve mydone thoughts during and theprocess day.” what • L I NDZ I’ve I SCH done ARF during the day.”

• L I NDZ I SCH ARF

HAIR: PETE LAMDEN. MAKEUP: JO STRETTELL AT TRACEY MATTINGLY USING JILLIAN DEMPSEY. NAILS: EMI KUDO AT OPUS BEAUTY USING CHANEL LE VERNIS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.119.

Artist

Alzheimer’s

Prada