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WINTER 2018/2019

136

TOC 1

Features 114 THE NEW HEARSTS California’s tech elite and business brains are buying up the nation’s most esteemed newspapers and magazines with no guarantee they’ll ever turn a profit.

What’s in it for them?

122 BEING CINDY CRAWFORD

114

The mother, mogul and mentor reflects on her beloved Malibu and four decades on fashion’s front line.

136 FRIEZE IN THE FRAME What does it take to launch one of the most influential art fairs in the world in Los Angeles? We hear from the main players giving Hollywood a starring role.

142 TO BE AT SEA With its remote location and modernist rule book, The Sea Ranch continues to fascinate. As a new exhibition opens, we look back at its revolutionary origins, and what it means to live on hallowed land.

C 30 WINTER 2018/2019

122 On Our Cover CINDY CRAWFORD wearing a FENDI blazer and skirted trousers, and RAG & BONE boots. Photography by KURT MARKUS. Creative and fashion direction by ALISON EDMOND. Hair by CHRIS McMILLAN at Starworks Artists.

Makeup by JO STRETTELL at Tracey Mattingly. Nails by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty. Special thanks to Dusty and Jade Rhodes.

SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.150. “FRIEZE IN THE FRAME” (P.136): NOW I’M GOING TO TELL YOU EVERYTHING, SARAH CAIN; COURTESY OF THE ARTIST. “TO BE AT SESA” (P.142): RUSH HOUSE INTERIOR AND OCEAN VIEW, 2018; PHOTO © LESLIE WILLIAMSON. “THE NEW HEARSTS” (P.114): ILLUSTRATION BY GLUEKIT. “BEING CINDY CRAWFORD” (P.122): KURT MARKUS.

142

David Yurman

SOUTH COAST PLAZA

RODEO DRIVE

DAVIDYURMAN.COM

WESTFIELD VALLEY FAIR

THE AMERICANA AT BRAND

W E S T F I E L D T O P A N G A & T HE V I L L AG E

GOLDEN LOLLIPOP, JASMIN ANOSCHKIN (P.70): © JASMIN ANOSCHKIN, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST, PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERT J. LEVIN. CASA MAMI (P.96): CARLOS NAUDE. ATRIUM BAR (P.88): JAKOB LAYMAN. THE NOW (P.100): COURTESY OF THE NOW. EARRINGS (P.152): COURTESY OF FENDI. RUNWAY (P.75): COURTESY OF GIVENCHY. WATCH (P.84): COURTESY OF MICHAEL KORS. MANGANESE, DAMIEN HIRST (P.66): © DAMIEN HIRST AND SCIENCE LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, DACS 2018 COURTESY GAGOSIAN. SLIPPERS (P.52): COURTESY OF VERSACE. PITCHER (P.58): COURTESY OF TORY BURCH. NATALIE MARTIN (P.60): ASHLEY TURNER.

96

70

CONTENTS

Departments 36 FOUNDER’S LETTER An attitude of gratitude.

38 C PEOPLE Who’s who behind the scenes of C.

40 #CMYCALIFORNIA

100

88

A taste of Tyler Florence’s world.

47 C WHAT’S HOT Give and let give with our colorful wish list. Knead-to-know bakeries around the Golden State. Natalie Martin’s bohemian boutique lands in Los Angeles.

69 C CULTURE The can’t-miss shows of the season, up and down the coast.

75 C FASHION

152

Prints and pleats, straight off the runway. Pearls stand the test of time.

TOC 2

87 C MENU Bread winners Chad Colby and Elisabeth Prueitt expand their Tartine bakery empire.

93 C DESIGN RH moves into Yountville’s culinary haven. Block Shop plays with patterns in a new furniture collab.

84

99 C BEAUTY

52

Party-perfect looks. True Botanicals sets up shop in San Francisco.

CBD-infused treatments make their way to The Now’s massage mecca.

107 C TRAVEL

66

Chasing the winter sun.

150 SHOPPING GUIDE 152 WHEN IN Mammoth’s winter wonderland.

154 PHOTO FINISH Kathryn Newton has stylish ambitions.

C 32 WINTER 2018/2019

58

75

60

Gucci

Jennifer Smith Hale Founder, Editorial Director & CEO Jenny Murray Editor & President Chief Brand & Content Officer Andrew Barker | Chief Creative Officer James Timmins Executive Creative & Fashion Director Alison Edmond Lesley McKenzie Deputy Editor Beauty Director Kelly Atterton

Arts & Culture Editor Elizabeth Khuri Chandler

Senior Designer Gabrielle Mirkin

Fashion Market Editor Rebecca Russell

Associate Editor Anush Benliyan

Photo Editor Maya Harris

Assistant Fashion Editor Margrit Jacobsen

Copy Editor Marie Look

Graphic Designer Niki Sylvia

Masthead

Contributing Senior Editor Melissa Goldstein San Francisco Editor-at-Large Diane Dorrans Saeks | Contributing Editor-at-Large Kendall Conrad | Special Projects Contributor Stephanie Steinman Contributing Editors Danielle DiMeglio, Kelsey McKinnon, Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith, Andrea Stanford, Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson Contributing Writers Catherine Bigelow, Caroline Cagney, Kerstin Czarra, Heather John Fogarty, Marshall Heyman, Punch Hutton, Christine Lennon, Martha McCully, Degen Pener, Jessica Ritz, Lindzi Scharf, Khanh T.L. Tran, Elizabeth Varnell, S. Irene Virbila Contributing Photographers Christian Anwander, David Cameron, Mark Griffin Champion, Victor Demarchelier, Amanda Demme, Michelangelo di Battista, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Beau Grealy, Zoey Grossman, Pamela Hanson, Kurt Iswarienko, Mona Kuhn, Kurt Markus, Carter Smith, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jan Welters Contributing Copy Editors Nancy Wong Bryan, Lily Maximo Villanueva | Intern Taira Kanazawa

Renee Marcello Publisher Executive Director Southern California Crista Vaghi

Executive Director Fashion Debbie Flynn

Integrated Marketing Director Jillian DeMarche

Executive Director Northern California Autumn O’Keefe

Executive Director Jewelry & Watch Avery Travis

Sales & Marketing Associate Madison Dahlke

Executive Director Beauty & Lifestyle Office Assistant Heidi Kurlander-Kail Wendi Coto Information Technology Director Sandy Hubbard Finance Associate Troy Felker | Finance Assistant Lee Sultan Andy Nelson Chief Financial Officer & Chief Operating Officer C PUBLISHING 1543 SEVENTH STREET, SECOND FLOOR, SANTA MONICA, CA 90401 T: 310-393-3800 SUBSCRIBE@MAGAZINEC.COM MAGAZINEC.COM C-STATEOFMIND.COM

Harry Winston

FOUNDER’S LETTER

At this time of year, I like to take stock and set intentions for the new year ahead. For me, one of those intentions will be to care less about things that don’t really matter in the big scheme of things, while investing in people, experiences and things that do.

There is no greater source of perspective than the recent devastation by wildfires up and down our state. As we know too well, this isn’t the first time Californians have lost loved ones and homes to the forces of nature. As a resident of both Malibu and Montecito, in the past 12 months, I’ve seen my neighbors do what Californians do best: support one another in times of need and give thanks for the tremendous, if precarious, privilege of living here. Our hearts go out to all those who have lost so much, and we offer our deepest gratitude to the first responders and firefighters who risk their safety for our communities.

And so, I turn to the contents of this issue, because celebrating the state’s abundant gifts is one small way to pay tribute to all it has given me—most importantly, my own happy places—Malibu, Montecito, Big Sur and Napa, among them. For modernists and conservationists alike, The Sea Ranch in Northern California inspires such devotion. To coincide with a new show at SFMOMA and an accompanying book, we present a portfolio of images capturing this iconic spot and an excerpt by one of the exhibition’s curators, Joseph Becker.

Time with friends is among my most valued commodities. So, a day in Malibu with a friend, and the original supermodel, Cindy Crawford, is one I don’t take lightly. The first time she graced our cover was in our launch year of 2005, and it was a dream come true for me—a then-30-year-old starting a magazine celebrating the best of California—to have such a legend in our pages. Cut to 13 years later with Cindy starring again for her third C cover: This time around, she’s even more beautiful and more powerful.

Print has been the lifeblood of megawatt media businesses for more than a century, ever since William Randolph Hearst—who was famously bicoastal—forged his empire from his western perch. Life is very different for “The New Hearsts,” various tech-savvy left-coasters who are buying up beloved newspapers and magazines to preserve the publications’ legacies. What writer John Arlidge discovers is an industry in flux being reinvented for the digital age by some of the greatest brains in business and technology. We salute their ambition and are proud to be part of the West Coast’s burgeoning position as the thriving new epicenter of global publishing.

A westward expansion is on the books for famed British art fair Frieze, which is about to launch a Los Angeles edition of the celebrated event in February. The art world is looking left and waiting with bated breath to see how it will unfold on our coast. With Hollywood’s finest and the cultural set partnering to make this an unmissable moment, we are excited to report on what promises to be a brilliant addition to the city’s arts calendar.

And speaking of the finest, every year around this time our editors endeavor to curate an aspirational gift guide, the contents of which we ourselves would love to receive. And while my resolution is top of mind, I’ll be the first to admit that a bit of sparkle may not give you true happiness, but it is always welcome.

As the holidays blur with awards season, it seems the whole world descends on our beaches and back lots…and why not? Here, it is always 72 degrees, sunny and full of endless possibilities.

JENNIFER SMITH HALE

Founder, Editorial Director and CEO We’d love to hear from you. Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.

C 36 WINTER 2018/2019

DAVID DOWNTON

Founder’s Letter

Dior

S O U T H C O A S T P L A Z A - 714 . 5 4 9 . 47 0 0

C PEOPLE

Who’s who behind the scenes of this issue, plus their favorite California places

BY M A R I E LOOK

Kurt Markus

Margrit Jacobsen “Having worked previously on a shoot with Cindy [Crawford], I already knew what a class act she is,” says assistant fashion editor Margrit Jacobsen about being on set with the cover star. A Los Angeles native, the stylist got her start as a wardrobe assistant on shoots for Vogue and Vanity Fair, among other publications. C SPOTS • Scout Coffee in San Luis Obispo is delicious and serene • Renaud’s in Santa Barbara for the chocolate croissant • Aero Theatre in Santa Monica to see classic films

C People Elizabeth Holmes “I was struck by the way Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt think about food, and how it can be applied to any number of passions,” says writer Elizabeth Holmes, who interviewed the founders of San Francisco bakery Tartine ahead of its expansion to Los Angeles (and beyond) for “By Bread Alone,” p.90. Formerly a senior style reporter and columnist at The Wall Street Journal, Holmes also writes for The New York Times and Real Simple. C SPOTS • Hero Shop in San Francisco for the chicest fashions • Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden in Palo Alto for family portrait sessions • Cora’s Coffee Shoppe in Santa Monica for the orange pancakes with blueberries

Bettina Korek “It is amazing to bring the story of Frieze Los Angeles to life,” says Bettina Korek, executive director of the L.A. installment of the international art fair spotlighted in “Frieze in the Frame” p.136. She is also the founder of ForYourArt, which publishes a guide to the local art scene.

C SPOTS • The Underground Museum on West Washington Boulevard is a beautiful tribute to late founder Noah Davis’ vision • The Women’s Center for Creative Work in L.A. for incredible events • Otherwild on North Vermont Avenue for its curation of wares

Chris McMillan “Cindy [Crawford] and I have been pals forever, and I have learned everything I know about directing talent on set from her,” says hairstylist Chris McMillan, who expertly coiffed the supermodel’s tresses for this issue’s cover. With a namesake salon in Beverly Hills, McMillan has worked with stars such as Sandra Bullock and Nicole Kidman, and on covers for Vogue, Rolling Stone and Vanity Fair.

C SPOTS • Melvyn’s Ingleside Inn in Palm Springs for old-school glamour • A turkey burger with well-done bacon from Carneys in West Hollywood • The architecture tour at the Getty Center

MARKUS: SUSIE MCFADDEN. KOREK: JOHNNY LE. HOLMES: LINDSAY WISER. JACOBSEN: JULIAN TRAN. M C MILLAN: FRANK TERRY.

“From the very first frame, she put on a show I’ll never forget,” says Kurt Markus of photographing cover star Cindy Crawford for “Being Cindy Crawford,” p.122. The Montana native recently relocated with his wife, Maria, to Santa Fe, N.M., where a show of his Monument Valley images just closed at Obscura Gallery. In addition to six photography books, Markus has produced work for clients including Bogner and Banana Republic. Next he shoots Armani’s Spring/Summer 2019 campaign, assisted by his two creative sons, Weston Montana and Ian Nevada.

C SPOTS • Palm Springs after a long winter in Montana • Joshua Tree for filming • Coastal road trips from San Francisco to L.A. for the photo ops

Bally

#CmyCalifornia

SNAPSHOTS OF THE GOLDEN STATE, AS SEEN THROUGH THE EYES OF ITS BIGGEST FANS EDITED BY ANUSH BENLIYAN

Tyler Florence

As a celebrity chef who has captivated millions on the Food Network, Tyler Florence is no stranger to the spotlight.

In the aftermath of the 2017 Northern California wildfires, however, the South Carolina-born restaurateur and family man—who resides in Mill Valley with his wife and children—chose to turn the tables.

In his new documentary and directorial debut, Uncrushable, which will screen at the Palm Springs International Film Festival in January, Florence captures the resilience and bravery of the wine country community and his beloved adopted home. tylerflorence.com.

Golden Gate Bridge

“I never get sick of riding my Triumph over the bridge. Underneath, at Horseshoe Cove, we keep a sailboat that we take out on the Bay.”

Sir and Star at T he Olema

“The food is uber-local and always simple and delicious. Nobody is trying too hard here to impress, but somehow they always do.”

10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Olema, 415-663-1034; sirandstar.com.

PORTRAIT, BRIDGE (2): COURTESY OF TYLER FLORENCE. SIR AND STAR AT THE OLEMA: JAMES BAIGRIE.

CMYC

Marco Bicego

NEIMAN MARCUS, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE & YOUR NEAREST FINE JEWELER MARCOBICEGO.COM

Buckeye Roadhouse

“We love the cozy, lodgelike vibe and comfort food. The ribs and the s’mores pie are favorites.”

Northstar California Resort

15 Shoreline Highway, Mill Valley, 415-331-2600; buckeyeroadhouse.com.

“It’s where my wife learned how to ski when she was growing up, so it really felt full circle when we brought our kids. Summer or winter, Lake Tahoe is magical.”

5001 Northstar Dr., Truckee, 530-562-1010; northstarcalifornia.com.

Stinson Beach

CMYC “My family rents a house on the lagoon several times a year. It’s so peaceful and relaxing—some of our best family bonding time.”

Marin County.

Gospel F lat Farm

“A place to stock up on fresh vegetables and flowers. We also like to let our kids run and play there.”

140 Olema Road, Bolinas, 415-868-0921; gospelflatfarm.com.

Safari West

“They have over 1,000 animals, from rhinos to rare birds. The owner, Peter Lang, stayed up all night to save his animals during the 2017 wildfires.”

3115 Porter Creek Road, Santa Rosa, 800-616-2695; safariwest.com.

NORTHSTAR: COURTESY OF NORTHSTAR CALIFORNIA RESORT. STINSON BEACH, GOSPEL FLAT FARM (2): COURTESY OF TYLER FLORENCE. SAFARI WEST: COURTESY OF SAFARI WEST.

#CmyCALIFORNIA

CH Premier

RSVP

GRACE and ROSETTA GETTY. M CHOW and VANESSA RANO.

BO DEREK.

C Events - Getty KENYA KINSKI-JONES and WILL PELTZ.

With California’s abounding creative culture as its muse, C Magazine joined The Getty in October to host a grand fete at the Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades. Visionaries of art, film, fashion and design explored galleries after hours, sipped Champagne while being serenaded, dined alfresco and departed with a gift from Bottega Veneta.

ANDREW PERCHUK and JEFFREY DEITCH.

ERICA PELOSINI LEEMAN, ALEXA DELL, NICOLE AVANT, JENNIFER SMITH HALE, LUISA FERNANDA ESPINOSA and DANIELA VILLEGAS.

NICK FOUQUET, JENNIFER SMITH HALE, EZRA WOODS, ERIN WASSON and WANESSA MILHOMEM.

STEFANIE KEENAN

CAMILLA BELLE and ALEX ISRAEL.

ERIN WASSON and JEFFREY SPIER.

ANDREA LIEBERMAN, TOM BINNS and JUAN CARLOS OBANDO.

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE WH opener

That’s a Wrap

99 OF THE EDITORS’ FAVORITE GIFTS, INSPIRED

BY CALIFORNIA’S COLORSCAPE BRITT MERRICK FOR H. MERRICK SURFBOARDS, from $1,950, H. Merrick of California, 115 W. Ninth St., L.A., 310-424-5520; c-stateofmind.com.

GIFT GUIDE

1.

2.

3.

4.

The White Stuff

5.

6.

7.

WH gift guide 8.

17.

16.

9.

10.

15.

14.

13.

12.

11.

1. PRADA sneakers, $750, Prada, Costa Mesa.

2. SOHO HOME Barwell cut crystal martini shaker, $129, sohohome.com. 3. BANG & OLUFSEN Special Edition Beoplay M5 speaker with artwork by David Lynch, $750, bang-olufsen.com.

4. POMELLATO Nudo moonstone ring, $5,050, Pomellato, Beverly Hills.

5. MICHAEL KORS Jet Set Travel eye mask, $98, michaelkors.com.

6. MAJE Goyalu coat, $630, Maje, Beverly Hills.

7. RED VALENTINO Flower Puzzle tote bag, $1,150, Red Valentino, Costa Mesa.

8. VINCE Teddy Pom beanie, $125, vince.com.

9. PACO RABANNE silver Pastille dress, $3,350, Just One Eye, L.A. 10. OCULUS Oculus Go virtual reality headset, from $199, oculus.com.

11. RIMOWA X OFF-WHITE carry-on case, $1,700, Rimowa, Beverly Hills.

12. STELLA MCCARTNEY Spring/Summer 2019.

13. LOUIS VUITTON Spring/Summer 2019.

14. ROBERTO CAVALLI leather booties, $850, Roberto Cavalli, Beverly Hills. 15. THEORY Clairene jacket in Buttercream, $595, Theory, L.A. 16. OSCAR DE LA RENTA clear mini Alibi bag, $2,390, Oscar de la Renta, L.A. 17. EMBER Travel mug, $150, ember.com.

FASHION MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. BROAD EXTERIOR: HAYK SHALUNTS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.150.

SIMPLE IDEAS FOR CHICS AND GEEKS

Brahmin

3.

GIFT GUIDE

5.

4.

6.

2.

1.

Sunset Set

17.

WH gift guide 11.

16.

15.

14.

13.

12.

10.

9.

8.

1. BYREDO Rose hand wash, $65/450 mL, Barneys New York, Beverly Hills. 2. OLIVER PEOPLES Bianka Blush Crystal sunglasses, $455, Oliver Peoples, Malibu.

3. MARK & GRAHAM charging bracelet for iPhone, from $159, markandgraham.com.

4. BOY SMELLS Redhead candle, $29/8.5 oz., boysmells.com.

5. DRAGON ALLIANCE PXV goggles, $180, greenroom-oc.com.

6. CHANEL faded grainy handbag, $4,500, Chanel, Beverly Hills. 7. IRENE NEUWIRTH Fire and pink opal earrings, $23,220, modaoperandi.com.

8. BOSS Spring/Summer 2019. 9. LARQ selfcleaning bottle, $95, livelarq.com.

10. GIVENCHY Spring/Summer 2019.

11. JOHN HARDY Classic Chain Overlap ring, $1,295, John Hardy, L.A. 12. SUPERBRAND Siamese Twin surfboard, $640, superbranded.com.

13. STUART WEITZMAN Cassia clutch, $1,250, Stuart Weitzman, Beverly Hills. 14. CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ La Crème Holiday, $535/30 mL, neta-porter.com. 15. GUCCI Double G keychain, $250, Gucci, Beverly Hills.

16. STAR POWER: A SIMPLE GUIDE TO ASTROLOGY FOR THE MODERN MYSTIC (Quadrille Publishing, $17). 17. ISAIA floral swim trunks, $280, isaia.it.

FASHION MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. SUNSET: VIVIANA RISHE/UNSPLASH. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.150.

7.

PRESENTS SO PERFECT YOU’LL BE TICKLED PINK

Moncler

4.

GIFT GUIDE 2.

1.

3.

5.

6.

Hello, Yellow

7.

WH gift8. guide 15.

13.

9.

11.

14.

12.

10.

1. KBH JEWELS Bezel bangle, $1,950, kbhjewels.com.

2. NICK FOUQUET Oasis Zain gold hat, $1,325, Nick Fouquet, Venice.

3. SCOSHA Diamond Starry Signet ring, $1,180, Esqueleto, Oakland.

4. LEISURE SOCIETY

BY SHANE BAUM Lewitt frames in 24-karat yellow gold, $1,755, Fred Segal, L.A. 5. MIU MIU rider bag, $1,150, miumiu.com.

6. ETRO trousers, $910, Etro, Beverly Hills.

7. RH MODERN Cannele Task table lamp by Jonathan Browning, $746, RH Modern, West Hollywood.

8. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA X MASTER & DYNAMIC turntable, $3,795, Ermenegildo Zegna, Beverly Hills. 9. ACQUA DI PARMA Colonia Special Edition eau de cologne, $200/180 mL, Barneys New York, Beverly Hills.

10. LOUIS VUITTON Horizon Soft suitcase, price upon request, Louis Vuitton, Beverly Hills.

11. VERSACE I Love Baroque bath slippers, $125, Versace, Beverly Hills.

12. MAX MARA Spring/ Summer 2019. 13. COPALLI Barrel Rested Rum 88 Proof, $35, copallirum.com.

14. JIMMY CHOO Hurley 100 gold liquid leather boots, $1,795, Jimmy Choo, Costa Mesa. 15. MOTT50 X MARGHERITA MISSONI Lucia one-piece swimsuit in Vineyard Tribal, $175, mott50.com.

FASHION MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. MUSTARD FIELD: SUNDRY PHOTOGRAPHY. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.150.

BRIGHT IDEAS THAT WILL MAKE THEM BEAM

Sandro

2.

GIFT GUIDE 1.

3.

4.

Green Is Good EVERGREEN GIFTS GUARANTEED TO BE THE ENVY OF ALL

WH gift guide

6.

15.

14.

7.

8.

13. 11.

12.

10.

9.

1. DAVID WEBB Brocade bracelet with emeralds, price upon request, David Webb, Beverly Hills.

2. PREEN HOME Khaki Sketchbook cushion, $355, preenbythorntonbregazzi.com.

3. WONDERPLANTS 2: YOUR URBAN JUNGLE INTERIOR (Lanoo Publishers, $45).

4. SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO Niki Medium bag in vintage leather, $2,250, Saint Laurent, Beverly Hills. 5. TOD’S leather passport holder, $175, Tod’s, Costa Mesa.

6. EMU AUSTRALIA Mayberry slippers, $60, Ambiance, San Luis Obispo. 7. GRAFF emerald and diamond Carissa necklace, price upon request, Graff, S.F. 8. DIOR Lady Art bag by artist LEE BUL, price upon request, Dior, Beverly Hills. 9. DRIES VAN NOTEN Spring/Summer 2019.

10. DIPTYQUE Pine Tree of Light candle, $72/6.5 oz., diptyqueparis.com. 11. BURTON Fimbulvetr HIKR snowshoes, $269/pair, burton.com.

12. BALLY Galaxy leather sneakers, $475, Bally, Beverly Hills. 13. HERMÈS Parfums Eau de Pamplemousse Rose eau de cologne, $130/3.38 fl. oz., Hermès, Beverly Hills.

14. BOTTEGA VENETA Multicolor Double Suede Day tote, $3,500, Bottega Veneta, Beverly Hills. 15. PAUL SMITH emerald green print heels, $495, Paul Smith, L.A. 16. SANDRO high-waisted Jacquard trousers, $295, Sandro, Beverly Hills.

FASHION MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.150.

16.

5.

Salvatore Ferragamo

RODEO DRIVE FLAGSHIP BEVERLY CENTER WESTFIELD TOPANGA SOUTH COAST PLAZA FASHION VALLEY SAN FRANCISCO WESTFIELD VALLEY FAIR THE FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS THE GRAND CANAL SHOPPES WYNN LAS VEGAS FERRAGAMO.COM

GIFT GUIDE 2.

1.

4.

3.

Pure Orange

5.

WE ARE CRUSHING BIG-TIME ON THIS ZESTY BUNCH

14.

11. gift guide WH

13.

10.

12.

9.

8.

7.

1. HERMÈS Apple Watch Series 4 with leather double tour band, from $1,399, apple.com.

2. DOLCE & GABBANA Sicily bag in rubber, $995, Dolce & Gabbana, Beverly Hills. 3. WHISKEY COCKTAILS (Assouline, $50). 4. GUESS quilted velvet bomber jacket, $168, shop.guess.com.

5. MILLA CHOCOLATES candied orange chips, $20, c-stateofmind.com.

6. M MISSONI wool coat, $895, M Missoni, Costa Mesa. 7. FENDI Spring/Summer 2019.

8. CAROLINA HERRERA Spring/Summer 2019.

9. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Multicolor Graphic So Kate booties, $1,295, Christian Louboutin, Costa Mesa. 10. BRUNO MAGLI AirPods earbuds case, $45, brunomagli.com.

11. RHODE RESORT Berto pajamas in Black Blossom, $365, rhoderesort.com.

12. CHEMEX Classic Chemex, $44, drinktrade.com.

13. SUNDAY RILEY C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum, $85/30 mL, sephora.com.

14. TIMBERLAND BNY Sole Series Nubuck boots, $220, Barneys New York, Beverly Hills.

FASHION MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. ORANGES: ATOM WANG. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.150.

6.

Paul Smith

GIFT GUIDE 1.

4.

3.

2.

Teal Appeal

5.

6.

WH gift guide 8.

15.

7.

14.

11.

9.

13.

10.

12.

1. FURLA Metropolis Nuvola crossbody, $278, furla.com. 2. VOLCÁN DE MI TIERRA Blanco tequila, $45, wallywine.com.

3. CAMBRIA lazy Susan in Skye, $175, cambriausa.com.

4. MARCO BICEGO Paradise aquamarine necklace, $5,940, Shreve & Co., S.F. 5. TORY BURCH Spongeware small pitcher, $78, Tory Burch, Beverly Hills. 6. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI velvet blazer, $5,195, Brunello Cucinelli, S.F. 7. TIFFANY & CO. platinum earrings with aquamarines, price upon request, Tiffany & Co., Beverly Hills. 8. MAX MARA Lace Up heels, $870, Max Mara, Beverly Hills.

9. IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph watch, $12,000, IWC Schaffhausen, Beverly Hills.

10. MARTONE CYCLING CO. Bergen Diamond 3 speed bicycle, $1,600, martonecycling.com.

11. GIORGIO ARMANI Spring/Summer 2019.

12. VALENTINO GARAVANI espadrilles, $745, Valentino, Beverly Hills. 13. DENNIS HOPPER: PHOTOGRAPHS 1961-1967 (Taschen, $70).

14. DAVID YURMAN High Jewelry Gems oval ring, price upon request, David Yurman, Beverly Hills. 15. KISSWEH Ola embroidered pillow, $350, kissweh.com.

FASHION MARKET EDITOR: REBECCA RUSSELL. CALIFORNIA COAST: MICHAEL LUND. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.150.

BLUE IS THE HUE THAT SAYS I LOVE YOU

Mandarin Oriental

LOS ANGELES

FEELING Groovy When Natalie Martin decided to open a Los Angeles flagship for her namesake line of breezy, block-printed frocks, beloved by everyone from Busy Philipps to Barbra Streisand, Martin hoped the space would reflect both her personal aesthetic and the effortless sensibility for which her label is known. “I wanted customers to come in and feel comfortable and relaxed,” says the Australian-born Benedict Canyon resident who turned to interior designer Amanda Masters to bring her vision to life in a sun-dappled space on La Cienega Boulevard.

“We both love the ’70s and that Laurel Canyon feel,” notes Masters, who opted to create a neutral backdrop that would allow Martin’s color-saturated dresses, including the bestselling Fiore silhouette, to shine. Standout touches include Berber rugs, handcarved doors from Morocco (which lead to Martin’s adjoining studio), and a pair of midcentury chairs sourced from Bali, where the line is also made. 804 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 424-335-0566; nataliemartincollection.com. L ES L EY M c K EN ZI E

ALEXANDRA VON FURSTENBERG Ocean Aura bowl, $450.

WH bits

Clockwise from left: Designer NATALIE MARTIN. A pair of Balinese midcentury chairs flank the NATALIE MARTIN COLLECTION. A vintage dowry trunk and handcarved Moroccan doors, imported by Badia Design. Dressing-room curtains in Thai silk feature a leather trim.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

Perfect 10 To mark the 10th anniversary of her eponymous luxury acrylic furnishings collection, Alexandra Von Furstenberg has created new accessories that celebrate the company’s vibrant spirit.

Among the offerings for spring is the Aura print, available on bowls and trays, and “inspired by a bull’s-eye target—fitting for reaching our 10year mark,” Von Furstenberg says. The designer segued into accessories shortly after launching her furniture line in 2008 as a means of proffering her signature bold and bright style on a more accessible scale. “I don’t follow trends. I react to the market and what’s missing,” she says. 300 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310-777-0253; alexandravonfurstenberg.com. MAILE PIN GE L C 60 WINTER 2018/2019

NEW Wave

ROB MACHADO and KALANI ROBB share a wave in HBO’s MOMENTUM GENERATION.

In the 1990s, a crew of punk-rock-loving misfits, including now legendary Kelly Slater, changed the face of surfing from a SoCal adolescent pastime into the global professional sport it is today. Momentum Generation, a documentary by Emmy-winning directors Jeff and Michael Zimbalist, charts the rise, competitionfed splintering and ultimate reunion of the group including pros Shane Dorian, Rob Machado, Taylor Knox, Benji Weatherley, Kalani Robb, Ross Williams, Pat O’Connell and Kelly Slater. Premieres Dec. 11 on HBO; hbo.com. EV ELY N C R OW L E Y

NATALIE MARTIN (3): ASHLEY TURNER. MOMENTUM GENERATION: HBO.

WHAT’S HOT

IWC PILOT’S. ENGINEERED FOR ORIGINALS.

IWC Schaffhausen

Join the conversation on #B_ORIGINAL.

Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince”. Ref. 5010: The little prince tells the pilot he will give him a friendly laugh

the other hand, is guaranteed by the IWCmanufactured 52110-calibre movement with its seven-day power reserve. Time enough to

from the countless stars in the night sky. The sight this watch inspires similar sentiments, for every single detail is a joy to behold. The time-

forget time and follow the dream-like journey of the little prince. IWC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N .

piece is not only an imposing 46 millimetres in diameter but also impresses with classic elegance that sets off the midnight blue dial to perfect advantage. Technical perfection, on

Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement 52110 calibre · Pellaton automatic winding · 7-day power reserve · Power reserve display · Date display · Central hacking seconds · Soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields · Screw-in crown · Sapphire glass, convex,

antireflective coating on both sides · Special back engraving (figure) · Water-resistant 6 bar · Diameter 46.2 mm · Stainless steel · Calfskin strap by Santoni

WHAT’S HOT Blooming Genius When it comes to fashion, Vanessa Traina, executive creative director behind Assembled Brands and The Line, masterfully combines elegance with modernity. So it comes as no surprise that her makeup collaboration with venerable skincare brand Rodin Olio Lusso is as practical as it is chic.

“I think streamlining your beauty routine in today’s age of over-assortment is really exciting,” says the San Francisco native. Infused with the company’s signature nourishing oils, the assemblage of creamy lipsticks and lip and cheek oils comes in soft hues reminiscent of crushed petals.

Traina says, “My personal beauty style is effortless, so this collection was created to inspire women to embrace their natural beauty.” rodinoliolusso.com. C A R OL I N E C AG N EY CULVER CITY

Blanket Statement

From top: RODIN X VANESSA TRAINA COLLECTION Luxury Lip & Cheek Oil in Granatum, $35, and Luxury Lipstick in Dianthus, $38.

As sweater weather nears, antiquarian Ray Azoulay, founder of antique furniture and fine art gallery Obsolete, is introducing a new shop devoted to knits. A collaboration with Sean McNanney, of Williamsburg-based textile line Saved, Saved by Obsolete will stock everything from opera gloves embellished with embroidered rings to hats with a third eye to a Dorian Gray peacock-print throw— all created by McNanney from sustainably sourced cashmere, camel hair and Mongolian yak down.

The inventive range’s designs are customizable and, what’s more, they are helping to “rejuvenate an entire handcrafted business in Mongolia,” says Azoulay. 11270 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310-399-0024; obsoleteinc.com. EL I ZA B ET H VA R N EL L

SAVED Evil Eye cashmere throw collaboration with CELESTE MOGADOR, $1,425.

WH bits

BREADBLOK baguettes.

CLARK STREET BREAD seeded country loaves.

MANRESA BREAD Einkorn with ’nduja, ricotta and chestnut honey.

Thanks to the dedicated efforts of skilled

and brioche get snatched up. 3528 Larga

breakfast and lunch, along with bread,

bakers, as well as an heirloom grains

Ave., Atwater Village. 326 13th St., Manhat-

pastry and croissants. 331 Glendale Blvd.,

revival, California’s artisanal bread scene

tan Beach; breadblok.com. • L.A. native and

Echo Park; clarkstreetbakery.com. • Avery

is flourishing. With its range of exclu-

former musician Zack Hall found a follow-

Ruzicka mills most of the grains used to

sively gluten-free offerings, Breadblok (at

ing that included chefs Jessica Koslow and

bake magic at Manresa Bread, the casual

the Atwater Village Farmers Market on

Ludo Lefebvre soon after he started baking

operation that began in chef David Kinch’s

Sundays and Manhattan Beach Farm-

hearty, soulful loaves and baguettes out

legendary Los Gatos Manresa kitchen. The

ers Market on Tuesdays) widens access

of his West Hollywood apartment in 2014.

recently opened third location in Campbell

to nourishing breads and baked goods.

After maintaining a bread stand at DTLA’s

also boasts an all-day cafe with established

Design firm Commune masterminded

Grand Central Market, he’s now expanding

favorites like Ruzicka’s signature sourdough

the practical yet stylish market stands to

Clark Street Bread with its own brick-

levain and kouign amann. 195 E. Campbell

reflect owner Chloé Charlier’s Provencal

and-mortar base in Echo Park. The all-day

Ave., Campbell, 408-340-5171; manresa

roots. Arrive before the chestnut bread

café, slated to open this winter, will serve

bread.com. • J ESS I C A R I TZ

SAVED BY OBSOLETE: JESSE STONE AND ERIK BENJAMINS. MANRESA BREAD: ALYSSA TWELKER.

KNEAD TO KNOW

L O S A N G E L E S / N E W P O R T B E A C H / PA L O A LT O / PA S A D E N A / S A N D I E G O / S A N F R A N C I S C O / V I N C E . C O M

UNFOLD

Vince

WHAT’S HOT

HEIDI MERRICK sequin blazer, $575, skirt, $448, and white blazer, $426.

MALIBU

LOS FELIZ

SHOW Time

Los Angeles restaurateurs Beau Laughlin and Jay Milliken (Kettle Black, Sawyer, Scout) are known for creating community gathering spots that are also worthy of destination dining. The team has transformed a light-flooded, bow truss-ceilinged former theater rehearsal space in Los Feliz into Atrium, an expansive bar and restaurant with ambitious, seasonally focused dinner and weekend brunch menus by chef Hunter Pritchett (formerly of Melody) and pastry chef Gregory Baumgartner all in an atmospheric indoor and outdoor setting. Dishes such as the formidable pork chop katsu with burnt apple bulldog sauce and tangy slaw reflect Pritchett’s broad L.A.-based influences.

1816 1/2 N. Vermont Ave., L.A., 323-607-6944; atriumlosfeliz.com. J. R .

LOS ANGELES

WH bits

Coastmaster Los Angeles fashion designer Heidi Merrick is taking to the beach with an H. Merrick of California pop-up at Malibu Village that combines surf, style and art through January. The sensory-rich experience showcases her modern West Coast fashions alongside limited-edition SRF PCH apparel and accessories; a bespoke installation of Britt Merrick for H. Merrick surfboards; presentation by photographer Mona Kuhn and visual works by the likes of Joséphine Wister Faure selected by curator Yasmine Zodeh. 23357 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu, 424-235-2608; heidimerrick.com. M. L .

Arty Appetite In 1969, artist Allen Ruppersberg opened Al’s Café, an installation/restaurant in Downtown Los Angeles that served absurdist, inedible dishes and advanced the city’s growing reputation as hotbed for boundarypushing art. Now, 50 years later, a new retrospective of the pioneering artist, “Allen Ruppersberg: Intellectual Property 1968-2018” at the Hammer Museum in L.A., surveys the project alongside Ruppersberg’s straightforward yet conceptual works and explores his various modes of participatory art. Feb. 10May 12. The Hammer Museum, 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A.; 310-443-7000; hammer.ucla.edu. E.C.

Above: ALLEN RUPPERSBERG The Singing Posters: Allen Ginsberg’s Howl by Allen Ruppersberg (Parts I-III), 2003/2005 (detail). Left: Meals from Al’s Café, 1969.

Symbolic OFFERING

MAISON C Natura Morta wallpaper in ochre.

When two talented friends—who share a penchant for weaving female empowerment into their work—join forces, the result is bound to be beautiful.

Case in point: artist Costanza Theodoli-Braschi and interior designer Chiara de Rege’s wallpaper line Maison C, a range of hand-drawn and painted esoteric motifs printed in eco-friendly fashion, whose fans include model/musician Karen Elson and author/filmmaker Liz Goldwyn (both of whom snapped up the figurative, Boticelli-inspired Coven pattern after the brand launched last year). New this winter is Natura Morta, a still life-themed collection incorporating veiled busts and black petals, available at West Hollywood’s Nicky Rising showroom in December. An “imaginary narrative,” as de Rege puts it, runs through the whimsical designs: “There is a joy in a little escapism,” says Theodoli-Braschi. Look for the duo to introduce fabrics this spring and, down the road, furniture. $68/yd.; maisonc.com. A N H - M I N H L E

ATRIUM (2): JAKOB N. LAYMAN. HEIDI MERRICK: HANNAH FAITH LORD. MEALS FROM AL’S CAFE: COURTESY THE ARTIST. HOWL POSTER: COURTESY THE ARTIST AND GREENE NAFTALI, NEW YORK; PHOTO BY ROBERT WEDEMEYER, COURTESY SKIRBALL MUSEUM, SKIRBALL CULTURAL CENTER, LOS ANGELES. MAISON C: COURTESY OF MAISON C.

The bow truss ceiling inside ATRIUM. Left: The Main Squeeze or Mistress cocktail.

R E D V A L E N T I N O . C O M - S O U T H C O A S T P L A Z A : 3 3 3 3 B R I S T O L S T R E E T, C O S T A M E S A ( 7 1 4 ) 5 4 0 - 6 0 0 0

Valentino Red

WHAT’S HOT Tastemakers

2.

3.

4.

Robert Keith & Kether Parker

5.

WH tastemaker

10.

When jewelry designer Robert Keith— founder, creative chief and designer of cult line Hoorsenbuhs—needs something, his first instinct is to figure out how to make it. “You get these creative bursts, they explode in your mind,” explains the former photographer, who imagined the label’s signature tri-link mark in 2005, now seen on everything from weighty unisex geometric rings to cashmere blankets and T-shirts. While based in a studio on Santa Monica’s Main Street, Keith and his business partner, Hoorsenbuhs brand director Kether Parker, debuted their gallery in New York in late 2016. Now Keith and Parker have moved to the other side of Main to install Hoorsenbuhs’ ever-expanding offerings, including an eyewear collection, in a new atelier and 5,000-square-foot boutique. “We’re on the sunny side of the street now,” says Parker. “No pun intended,” quips Keith. Here’s what’s catching the Hoorsenbuhs duo’s eyes this holiday season.

2217 Main St., Santa Monica, 888-692-2997; hoorsenbuhs.com. • E.V.

6.

8.

9.

7.

1. HOW TO READ THE AKASHIC RECORDS

by Linda Howe (Sounds True, $15).

2. SIMPLE SYMMETRY Plane Goes East album. 3. THE ELDER STATESMAN Dyed Palm Tree Sweater, $1,715, elder-statesman .com. 4. AESOP Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Facial Toner, $56/6.8 oz., aesop.com.

5. VETEMENTS X REEBOK Sock Pump High-Top Sneakers, $840, ssense.com.

6. DAMIEN HIRST Manganese, 2016.

Manganese 7. SAINT LAURENT

BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO wool blazer, $1,590, and trousers, $990, ysl.com.

8. HOORSENBUHS Cashmere Theater Blanket, $1,495, hoorsenbuhs.com.

9. ROLLS-ROYCE Corniche, 1973 model.

10. CROSSROADS 8284 Melrose Ave., L.A.

KEITH AND PARKER PORTRAIT: ROMAN BARRET. DAMIEN HIRST: DAMIEN HIRST MANGANESE, 2016, HOUSEHOLD GLOSS ON CANVAS, 59 X 59 INCHES, 149.9 X 149.9 CM © DAMIEN HIRST AND SCIENCE LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, DACS 2018 COURTESY GAGOSIAN. RUNWAY: GERARDO SOMOZA/INDIGITAL.TV. FOOD: COURTESY OF CROSSROADS.

1.

Chopard

L.U.C LUNAR ONE The 43 mm-diameter L.U.C Lunar One is a perpetual calendar model with a big date and an orbital moonphase. This 355-part self-winding L.U.C 96.13-L movement is powered by a micro-rotor. Proudly developed, produced and assembled in our Manufacture, it showcases the full range of watchmaking skills cultivated within the Maison Chopard.

Sou th Coa s t P l a z a : 7 1 4 . 4 3 2 . 0 9 6 3 w w w. c ho pa rd. c o m / us

JANUARY 17–20, 2019 FORT MASON CENTER fogfair.com

Almond & Co., San Francisco Altman Siegel, San Francisco Andrew Kreps Gallery, New York Anthony Meier Fine Arts, San Francisco Anton Kern Gallery, New York Berggruen Gallery, San Francisco Blain|Southern, London Blum & Poe, Los Angeles Casati Gallery, Chicago CONVERSO, Chicago Cristina Grajales Gallery, New York Crown Point Press, San Francisco David Gill Gallery, London David Kordansky Gallery, Los Angeles David Zwirner, New York Edward Cella Art+Architecture, Los Angeles Fergus McCaffrey, New York Fraenkel Gallery, San Francisco Gagosian, San Francisco Galerie Chantal Crousel, Paris Galerie Perrotin, New York Gavin Brown's enterprise, New York Gladstone Gallery, New York Haines Gallery, San Francisco Hauser & Wirth, Los Angeles Hosfelt Gallery, San Francisco Hostler Burrows, New York James Cohan, New York Jason Jacques Gallery, New York Jessica Silverman Gallery, San Francisco KARMA, New York kurimanzutto, Mexico City Lebreton, San Francisco Lévy Gorvy, New York Luhring Augustine, New York Magen H Gallery, New York Marian Goodman Gallery, New York Matthew Marks Gallery, New York Modernity, Stockholm neugerriemschneider, Berlin Nicholas Kilner, Brooklyn Pace Gallery, Palo Alto Patrick Parrish Gallery, New York Paula Cooper Gallery, New York Petzel Gallery, New York R & Company, New York Ratio 3, San Francisco Reform/The Landing, Los Angeles Sarah Myerscough Gallery, London Spruth Magers, Los Angeles Stuart Shave/Modern Art, London Tanya Bonakdar Gallery, New York Volume Gallery, Chicago

Fog Design + Art

January 16, 2019 Preview Gala Benefiting the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

EDITED BY ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER

AUBRIE PICK

Culture opener

“Every time I make a piece, I always try to convey a mix of emotions: happiness, fear, guilt, tenderness… connection,” says the artist who goes by the name KOAK.

The Unmissable List

SEVEN MUST-SEE ART HAPPENINGS TO MARK ON YOUR CALENDAR THIS WINTER WINTER 2018/2019 C 69

1

At her studio in the Mission District of San Francisco, the artist known as Koak sits surrounded by her pastel color-washed works depicting curvilinear women: women chopping, women dancing, women gnawing on things. It’s all from her upcoming show at Ghebaly Gallery in Los Angeles, for which Koak thought about a woman in the home, imagining that place as a heat trap, where “all this energy is building up and her spirit breaks that apart,” she says. The artist spent her teens in Santa Cruz and graduated from California College of the Arts with an MFA in comics. Picked up by dealer Claudia Altman-Siegal, the oeuvre of the artist— who is a recipient of the Liquitex Research Residency at Minnesota Street Project—incorporates an illustrative sensibility with painterly, Picasso-like compositions.

“Every time I make a piece, I always try to convey a mix of emotions: happiness, fear, guilt, tenderness… connection,” she says. “Koak,” Dec. 15-Jan. 19. 2245 E. Washington Blvd., L.A., 323-282-5187; ghebaly.com. E.K.C.

The artist Koak at work in her San Francisco studio.

2

More than a dozen prominent artists from around the globe will head to Coachella Valley for Desert X, a biennial showcase of site-specific works. Doug Aitken, Jennifer Bolande, Phillip K. Smith III and others contributed to the inaugural showcase in 2017, drawing on the unique social, political and environmental conditions of the surrounding desert landscape to inform their art. The 2019 edition of Desert X promises to add new names, locations, film projects and a special daily tour during Modernism Week (Feb. 14-24). Feb. 9April 21. desertx.org. M.L.

Curves and Zigzags, 2017,

by CLAUDIA COMTE.

Culture turn

3 Works by artists LARRY BELL and JASMIN ANOSCHKIN (right).

C 70 WINTER 2018/2019

Having drawn more than 12,000 visitors last year to its historic Fort Mason setting, San Francisco’s FOG Design+Art expands in 2019 to spotlight 50-plus international design and visual art galleries, including first-timers such as New York’s newly established Anton Kern Gallery, London- and Berlin-based Blain|Southern, and international mega-gallery Hauser & Wirth. The fair will feature panel discussions with leading figures in the industry in addition to the annual Preview Gala (Jan. 16) benefitting the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture, Jan. 1720. Landmark Building C, 2 Marina Blvd. Ste. 260, S.F., 415-345-7500; fogfair.com. M . L .

KOAK: AUBRIE PICK. DESERT: LANCE GERBER, COURTESY OF ARTIST AND DESERT X. FOG: KATHLEEN BRENNAN, COURTESY OF LARRAY BELL AND HAUSER & WIRTH; ROBERT J. LEVIN, COURTESY OF AND COPYRIGHT TO JASMIN ANOSCHKIN.

CULTURE

Medmen

4

An annual celebration of midcentury architecture and design in Palm Springs, Modernism Week returns with highlights such as the Modernism Week Show House, for which interior designer Christopher Kennedy recruits an all-star roster of collaborators, and a keynote from Israeli-Canadian architect Moshe Safdie. There are also perennial favorites, including tours of the historic A. Quincy Jones-designed estate Sunnylands. Perhaps most compelling is the chance to sip sundowners in masterpieces envisioned by the likes of interior designer Arthur Elrod, who will be honored this year on the Palm Springs Walk of Stars. Feb. 14–24. modernismweek.com. M .G .

5

The third Untitled, Art fair in San Francisco introduces a new venue—Pier 35—to accommodate a larger crowd, a growing roster of exhibitors and a retail section devoted to art books. Highlights include David Zwirner gallery’s presentation of photography by American Philip-Lorca diCorcia, and University of California, Berkeley, Art Museum adjunct curator Constance Lewallen’s selection of California conceptualism-driven works for Anglim Gilbert Gallery. Installations, performances and discussions curated by Juana Berrío reinforce diversity on the global contemporary art stage.

Jan. 18-20. Pier 35, 1454 The Embarcadero, 646-405-6942; untitledartfairs.com. M . L .

Culture bits

2018P-17 (Circle), by ANOKA FARUQEE and DAVID DRISCOLL.

6

New York-based conceptual artist Glenn Ligon returns to Regen Projects for the sixth time with new multimedia works that engage charged ideas of race, language and identity. While his "Debris Field" paintings dive deep into his interest in communication, Notes for a Poem on the Third World (a 7-foot-tall neon-sign outline of his hands) stirs discussion around who is and who isn’t on the margins of society.

Jan. 12-Feb. 17. 6750 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310-276-5424; regenprojects.com. M.L.

C 72 WINTER 2018/2019

Study for Debris Field #17, 2018, by GLENN LIGON.

From top: The Sara Berman's Closet installation. MAIRA KALMAN's Sara Berman on the Terrace in Rome with Bougainvillea, 2018.

7

A powerful selfreinvention story is hard to resist— especially when it involves a symbolic sartorial makeover, as is the case with Sara Berman. Belarus-born Berman (1920–2004) made a sudden bold shift to wearing white clothing and accessories exclusively when, in 1981, she left her 38-year marriage and moved to New York City from Tel Aviv. Her daughter, celebrated artist Maira Kalman, and grandson, Alex Kalman, carefully reconstructed Berman's closet for an exhibition called “Sara Berman’s Closet” that debuted at the Mmuseum in 2015, moved to The Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2017, and will now be on view at the Skirball Cultural Center, along with 12 new paintings by Maira.

Dec. 4-March 10. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310-440-4500; skirball.org. J. R .

MODERNISM: ANTON GRASSL FOR ESTO. UNTITLED: COURTESY OF ARTIST AND KOENIG & CLINTON. LIGON: RONALD AMSTUTZ, COPYRIGHT GLENN LIGON, COURTESY OF ARTIST, LUHRING AUGUSTINE (N.Y.), REGEN PROJECTS (L.A.) AND THOMAS DANE GALLERY (LONDON). SARAH BERMAN'S CLOSET (PHOTO): COURTESY MMUSEUMM. SARA BERMAN ON THE TERRACE IN ROME WITH BOUGAINVILLEA (PAINTING): © MAIRA KALMAN; COURTESY JULIE SAUL GALLERY, NEW YORK.

The Walker guest house replica for MODERNISM WEEK.

Stanford Shopping Center

South Coast Plaza

Maje

EDITED BY ALISON EDMOND

Fashion opener

Leaders of the Pack

STRIDE CONFIDENTLY INTO SPRING/SUMMER 2019 WITH C’S GUIDE TO WHAT’S TRENDING Clockwise from top left: ISABEL MARANT, MAX MARA, VALENTINO, TOM FORD, CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC, DOLCE & GABBANA, GIVENCHY, SONIA RYKIEL, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM.

FASHION Runway Report LONGCHAMP DOLCE & GABBANA

GETAWAY GETUP

Global influences inspire the perfect holiday looks MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION

PACO RABANNE

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

LOEWE

MARC JACOBS

VALENTINO

CAROLINA HERRERA

Fashion runway

RODARTE

GRANDE DAME

Eveningwear turns the volume up to max

GUCCI

GIVENCHY

ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

GUCCI

PLISSE PLEASE

Architectural pleats are the new modernity

VALENTINO

MARINE SERRE

BRANDON MAXWELL

BALMAIN

TO PA N G A PL A Z A

P L A Z A AT E L S E G U N D O

BCBG

FASHI O N VA L L E Y

FASHION ISL AND

B E V E R LY C E N T E R

SHOP BCBG.COM

FASHION Runway Report CHANEL

VERSACE

DUNDAS

SECOND SKIN

Slick leather makes a power statement TOD’S GUCCI BALENCIAGA

LOUIS VUITTON

DIOR

Fashion runway

NET WORTH

Layer it up in oversize fishnet and macrame SONIA RYKIEL

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

COACH 1941

STELLA McCARTNEY

MOODY BLUES

All shades of denim work it this season MIU MIU BALMAIN

DION LEE

ALTUZARRA

ISABEL MARANT

PROENZA SCHOULER

Oliver Peoples

D O R I A N G R I N S P A N , E d i t o r i n C h i e f , T A S Y A VA N R E E , A r t i s t L A W R E N C E VA N H A G E N , A r t C u r a t o r I N C O N V E R S AT I O N S E R I E S . D I S C O V E R M O R E AT O L I V E R P E O P L E S . C O M

OLIVER PEOPLES | SOUTH COAST PLAZA S U I T E 3 2 2 , 3 3 3 3 B E A R S T R E E T, C O S T A M E S A , C A 9 2 6 2 6 (714) 557-7000

FASHION Runway Report VERA WANG

HISTORY LOOK

Ornamental vintage details reign strong DOLCE & GABBANA

COACH 1941

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

SIMONE ROCHA

SAINT LAURENT

BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

PRADA

DOLCE & GABBANA

GIORGIO ARMANI

Fashion runway

FRILL SEEKER

Femininity knows no bounds for nighttime MARC JACOBS THOM BROWNE

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI

GIVENCHY

BLACK TIED

Twist the classic tux to suit any mood DOLCE & GABBANA

SAINT LAURENT

BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

TOM FORD BALMAIN

GUCCI

Ilori

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Knit Hit

LOEWE Mackintosh Collection Flared coat, $3,490, wrap skirt, $1,650, Puzzle bag, $3,190, and Derby shoes, $750.

Los Angeles has always been a starting point for Carlotta Oddi’s creative process. “I love wandering through local vintage shops in search of inspiration,” says the creative director of Milan-based knitwear brand Alanui. With her brother and co-founder, Nicolò, she’s found a kindred spirit in L.A. designer Greg Lauren. The trio combines Alanui’s jacquard cashmere with Lauren’s ripped denim and aged canvas, offering eight unisex styles, including belted cardigans, oversize fisherman’s sweaters and hooded coats.

Saks Fifth Avenue, 9600 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-275-4211; alanui.it.

GREAT Scot The influence of architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh resonates through Loewe’s latest collection, which incorporates the groundbreaking Scottish designer’s flower motifs and lattice work in a gamut of clothing, bags and shoes for men and women. Using cashmere, silk, mohair and leather in earthy tones accented with yellow and pink, the Spanish label balances craftsmanship with whimsy, transposing Mackintosh’s botanical paintings on plush blankets and screen-printing his photographic portrait on shirts. loewe.com. K .T. L .T.

K H A N H T. L . T RA N

Fashion bits From left: TOD’S X ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA leather coat, $5,045, and patent leather pants, price upon request. Suede loafers, $645.

Factory Tour For Tod’s Factory, the fashion house’s new series of collaborative capsule collections and limited editions with select creatives, Tod’s is kicking off the initiative with Neapolitan fashion designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua. Exuding effortless glamour, the 16-piece collection encompasses styles such as a trench coat, Gommino moccasins and ankle boots, enhanced with patent leather and velvet, in shades of black, powder pink and tan. 333 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-285-0591; tods.com. K .T. L .T.

From top: GREG LAUREN X ALANUI Icon Patch coat, $5,645.

Icon Patch kimono cardigan, $4,995.

LASTING Looks Los Angeles-based designers Alison Deutch (of Blumenfeld Interiors and an eponymous apparel line) and Fruzsina Keehn (who oversees her own fine jewelry and interiors business) discovered a shared devotion to polished daywear when they struck up a friendship three years ago.

Now they’ve launched Keehn Deutch, a timeless collection of elegant and locally made dress silhouettes in a range of natural textiles, plus trousers, blouses and corduroy separates. Looks are customizable during the pair’s traveling trunk shows and every pattern stays on file, ensuring these new classics will stay evergreen. keehndeutch.com; shopthesil.com. E.V.

KEEHN DEUTCH No. 27 sleeveless wrap top, $350, and No. 22 wide leg pants, $640.

LOEWE: PHOTOGRAPHED BY CRAIG MCDEAN; STYLED BY BENJAMIN BRUNO. TOD’S: COURTESY OF TOD’S. KEEHN DEUTCH: STEPHEN SCHAUER.

FASHION

BOTTEGA VENETA

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1. MVMT Signature Series watch, $125, mvmt.com.

2. MICHAEL KORS Maci watch, $195, Michael Kors, L.A. 3. CHOPARD Happy Sport timepiece, $20,800, Chopard, Costa Mesa.

4. BULGARI Divas’ Dream watch, $53,000, CH Premier Jewelers, Santa Clara.

5. TISSOT Lady Sport Chic Special Edition watch, $1,395, us.tissotshop.com.

6. CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Day & Night watch, price upon request, Cartier, Beverly Hills.

7. HARRY WINSTON Ocean Biretrograde limited-edition timepiece, price upon request, Harry Winston, S.F. 8. PIAGET Extremely Lady watch, $53,000, Piaget, Beverly Hills. 9. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons Poetic Complications timepiece, price upon request, Van Cleef & Arpels, Costa Mesa.

10. ROLEX Lady-Datejust 28 in Oystersteel, $19,150, Rolex, S.F. 11. VACHERON CONSTANTIN Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements Ottoman Architecture watch, price upon request, Vacheron Constantin, Beverly Hills.

Fashion jbox 11.

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AUBRIE PICK

Menu opener

Sitting Pretty

The tasting room at VML features a custom bar and lighting by designer BECKY CARTER.

AN ENCHANTING TASTING ROOM MAKES ITS DEBUT AT HEALDSBURG’S VML WINERY VML, a sister property to Truett Hurst (known for its small-lot pinot noir, chardonnay and Russian River Valley flagship blends), has upped the tasting room ante with a new design by Oakland- and New York-based Becky Carter of her eponymous design firm. Carter crafted an inte-

rior that reflects “the magic of nature and astrology,” she says, noting the crystals, botany books and celestial chart-carved tables that adorn the greenhouse-like space, a former barrel storage room. “There’s a fluidity between the indoor and outdoor environments, whether seated at the bar

or strolling through the butterfly garden,” says CEO Paul Dolan, founding partner of Truett Hurst. “We hope visitors experience the relationship between soil, sky, plants, creatures and wine.” Reservations recommended. 5610 Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg, 707-431-4404; vmlwine.com. • M . P.

WINTER 2018/2019 C 87

MENU

Clockwise from left: The ALTA ADAMS chef’s counter. A Swing Thyme cocktail with blended rum, pomegranate and thyme. Chef KEITH CORBIN’s deviled eggs.

WEST ADAMS

LOCAL FLAVOR Alta Adams isn’t Michelin-starred Bay Area chef and restaurateur Daniel Patterson’s maiden foray into the L.A. area. Nevertheless, Patterson took one of the gems from his NorCal spots and first Los Angeles venture, LocoL in Watts, with him for his new restaurant and adjacent Adams Coffee Shop in the burgeoning West Adams neighborhood: chef and Watts native

Keith Corbin. At the Alta Group space designed in collaboration with Folklore— the design studio of West Adams local David Irwin—Corbin’s menu combines soul food mixed with a Southern California sensibility, from fall-off-the-bone oxtails to impossibly crisp fried chicken with house-made hot sauce to beautifully presented collard greens with just a kiss

of smoke. Patterson says, “From the beginning it was clear Keith had the heart and innate talent for cooking, as well as the drive to learn and grow with us.” 5359 W. Adams Blvd., L.A., 323-571-4999; altaadams.com. KA R EN PA L M ER

Menu bits

MISSION DISTRICT

Escape Room

Inspired by the excitement of traveling to faraway lands, Josh Harris and Morgan Schick of BVHospitality and The Bon Vivants created their new San Francisco bar, Bon Voyage! The watering hole is drenched in international ambiance, right down to the eclectic design touches (parrot-print wallpaper, zebra sculptures) and global flavors highlighted in the menu. Try the umami-loaded pork dumplings and fiery Sichuan green beens and wash it all down with a tropical cocktail or two. 584 Valencia St., S.F., 415-926-5465; bonvoyagebar.com. FLORA TSAPOVS KY LITTLE TOKYO

The upstairs mezzanine at BON VOYAGE!

C 88 WINTER 2018/2019

The interiors and menu at SAKE DOJO nod to modern Tokyo.

Few neighborhoods merge past and present as powerfully as DTLA’s Little Tokyo. Here, the team behind local favorite Far Bar opened Sake Dojo this past summer, reviving a space in the 100-plus-yearold Mikado Hotel building. Extensive craft sake, beer, whiskey and signature cocktail offerings complement the menu, which ranges from sushi and sashimi to Kurobuta porchetta. The dining room interior nods to cultural touchstones: “We were drawn to the intricate patterns and muted colors of Japanese body tattoos,” says Andrew Lindley of LAND Design Studio, who collaborated with architect David Wick of Wick Architecture & Design on the project, along with tattoo artist Horifuji and printer Michael Hill of AoSA to make an indelible impression on diners via a series of perforated plywood panels emblazoned with large-scale, artful imagery.

333 E. First St., L.A., 213-234-0957; sakedojola.com. J. R .

ALTA ADAMS (4): COURTESY OF ANDREA D’AGOSTO.

INK MASTER

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MENU

BY Bread Alone

TARTINE FOUNDERS CHAD ROBERTSON AND ELISABETH PRUEITT’S EMPIRE IS ON THE RISE At first glance, the concepts of “artisanal” and “expansion” seem like oil and water, an impossible mix of divergent goals.

But when you consider the cult-status bread from beloved San Francisco bakery Tartine, what with its taut, crunchy crust and its delectably chewy inside, it’s obvious founders Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson specialize in competing ideals.

After more than two decades of doing what they do so well in the Bay Area, Prueitt and Robertson are in the midst of a highly ambitious—they would prefer you not say the word aggressive, but it is that, too—expansion. Two new outposts opened in Seoul, South Korea, earlier this year and an epic new The Manufactory, about eight times the size of the San Francisco space on Alabama Street, is set to debut in early December in Downtown Los Angeles.

December will also see a new Manufactory Food Hall in SFO’s international terminal, and three more Tartines—one in San Francisco on Ninth Avenue, one inside the Graduate Berkeley hotel (formerly Hotel Durant) and one in Hollywood—all slated to open early next year. Preliminary plans for Japan are in the works, too.

“Having a really great bakery on the corner is nice and I love that and we’ve done it,” says Robertson. “Being in the business for now 20 years, we’re in a position to do something that we couldn’t do before,” he says of the perfect combination of new

C 90 WINTER 2018/2019

Menu tartine

partners, improved technology and outside investment which have made it all possible. “With the help of some great partner investors, we are currently building infrastructure to enable us to scale in a sustainable way without compromising quality or principles,” Robertson says.

Prueitt and Robertson’s own story is as

delicious as their pastries. The pair met in 1992 at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, seated next to each other because their names were in consecutive order on the alphabetical roster. They married two years later, joined by, among other things, an ambitious entrepreneurial spirit. “It was never a question of, ‘Gee, should we?’” Prueitt recalls of their plans to start a business. “We were like, ‘OK, now, how are we going to do that?’”

They spent most of 1995, the year after graduation, traveling France, reveling in their newlywed status, then ended up in the Bay Area thanks to renowned ovenmaker Alan Scott, who offered the couple room and board for help around the farmhouse and ranch. Prueitt and Robertson first opened Bay Village Bakery in Point Reyes Station later in 1995 before moving to San Francisco, where they still live, to launch Tartine in 2002. It garnered rave reviews and national acclaim, beloved by foodies and techies alike. “You know why there’s always a line?” reads the Bon Appétit review. “Because this place is always worth it.”

Together, their working relationship is one of dividing and conquering, in the name of efficiency but also as a means of survival. “We’re both very, very stubborn,” Robertson says. “We can step on each other’s toes pretty quickly.” Instead the two have mastered their own realms.

Prueitt handles the pastries; Robertson bakes the bread. She has taken the lead on the cocktail program (with Julian Cox, director of Tartine’s bar program); he sources the grain.

The Manufactory in Los Angeles is part of the Row DTLA project, a developing cultural destination that will feature a collection of 100 stores and 15 new restaurants at the edge of the Arts District.

At 40,000 square feet, it is Tartine’s biggest and most ambitious space to date.

Robertson recruited Arizona chef and fellow James Beard Foundation Award winner Chris Bianco, a friend for more than two decades, to help. There is an all-day restaurant called Tartine Bianco, plus there will be a coffee and ice cream walk-up window, a shopping market and a dinner-only restaurant called Alameda Supper Club. The space was designed by Studio BBA, the architects behind San Francisco’s Mister Jiu’s and Stonemill

TARTINE EXTERIOR, INTERIOR, FIG TOAST (3): TARTINE MANUFACTORY. ROLLS AND PORTRAIT (2): AUBRIE PICK.

TARTINE MANUFACTORY in San Francisco’s Mission District opened in 2016.

Below: Sweet potato buns that Tartine makes for HENRY’S chef CHRIS KRONNER. Fig and ricotta tartine.

Matcha. Led by Bonnie Bridges, the design firm is known for its sustainable practices, light-filled industrial spaces and interest in creating dining areas that pair with production facilities.

Prueitt and Robertson studied the shortcomings of the bustling San Francisco Manufactory, like traffic bottlenecks or a too-small bread room. The L.A. components will open in phases, to allow for adjustments. “There is a lot of orchestration,” Prueitt says. “You have to let the whole orchestra warm up,” Robertson adds. “It sounds like a mess—and then everyone gets in tune.”

Prueitt and Robertson have had their share of a few false starts. There was Bar Tartine, the experimental restaurant on Valencia in San Francisco which closed in 2016, as well as a partnership with Blue Bottle Coffee that never materialized.

The first successful extension of Tartine, back in 2016, expanded on the beloved San Francisco bakery’s original cramped corner in San Francisco’s Mission District with a light-filled, 5,000-square-foot warehouse less than a mile away. The new location made it possible to centrally prep Tartine’s viennoiserie, including their buttery, famously flaky croissants, and then deliver them to satellite locations for on-site baking—allowing Tartine to produce more but still serve up a fresh-fromthe-oven experience for its fans.

Initial runs, however, were disappointing. Something was amiss between the fermenting and the freezing processes, or the travel and baking. “From the outside you would be like, ‘There they go. They’re scaling. The quality is going down,’” Robertson says. “Even the team asked: ‘Why are we doing this?’” Robertson remained resolute.

Scaling wasn’t the problem, it was managing the various stages. It took three months of fine-tuning but now he says, “The viennoiserie is better than we’ve ever made in the history of our company.”

Scaling is a chance to make more— bread, obviously—but Prueitt and Robertson see it as a chance to do more, too. It has allowed them to start their own coffee business, in partnership with and under the direction of Chris Jordan, an alum of Starbucks and the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation’s TechnoServe nonprofit. Jordan is now Tartine’s chief operating officer and founder of the Coffee Manufactory,

and he works directly with African and Central American farmers to source the beans. Robertson has developed relationships of his own with grain farmers in Washington state, paying for half up front so farmers could buy the seeds. That sort

CHAD ROBERTSON and ELISABETH PRUEITT inside the GRADUATE BERKELEY hotel. Above: Inside Tartine Manufactory.

Menu tartine

of thing would have been impossible when they were smaller.

“These are choices for how we want to scale,” Robertson says. “I’m not abandoning one thing because I am embracing the other.” • EL I ZA B ET H H OL M ES

Casa de Perrin

EDITED BY MELISSA GOLDSTEIN

The wine vault at the historic Ma(i)sonry building at RH YOUNTVILLE.

COURTESY OF RESTORATION HARDWARE XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Design opener

Close to Home

RH STAGES ITS MOST AMBITIOUS MASTERWORK YET IN A WEST COAST CULINARY MECCA “I’ve always been drawn to the strength and serenity of the valley and vines,” says RH chairman and CEO Gary Friedman, whose new five-building, 20,000-squarefoot Napa Valley compound expands his

brand’s already formidable foray into hospitality. Craggy olive trees surround a restaurant, wine bar, barista bar and pair of furniture galleries at the tranquil indoor-outdoor RH Yountville on Wash-

ington Street, devised by architect James Gillam of lauded St. Helena firm Backen & Gillam Architects.

RH incorporated the Ma(i)sonry—an art- and antiques-filled wine vault and WINTER 2018/2019 C 93

DESIGN A pair of forged iron Camino Vintage Filament candelabras set the mood inside one of the new RH boutique design galleries.

MORE IN STORE

BLOCK SHOP founders HOPIE STOCKMAN and LILY STOCKMAN. Below: A bucket chair in salmon from the brand’s new collaboration with AMSTERDAM MODERN, $2,250.

Chicago restaurateur and RH Hospitality’s founding president, Brendan Sodikoff. The glass-roofed restaurant space, dreamed up

by Friedman (who grew up in neighboring Sonoma) and Sodikoff (who trained steps away at The French Laundry), makes a seductive case for pairing design with food and wine. • E.V.

Design bits Taking Shape If you’ve frequented the corners of Instagram curated by Los Angeles’ most style-conscious creatives, you’ll recognize Hopie and Lily Stockman’s Jaipur- and Atwater Village-based textile brand Block Shop, encompassing everything from flat-weave rugs to scarves. The sisters’ work has struck a cultural chord, thanks to their combination of scaled-up, modern geometric compositions that nod to Sol LeWitt, and the ancient block-printing process they employ, overseen by master printer Mukesh Chhipa. Now they’re infiltrating another category with a new capsule collection with midcentury design shop Amsterdam Modern—a series of vintage daybeds and bucket and cocktail chairs outfitted in pattern-happy handloomed khadi cotton and Belgian linen.

“We think of our textiles as art that you live with,” says Hopie of the offerings, which serve as a preview of their upholstery line, debuting this spring. blockshoptextiles.com; amsterdammodern.com. M .G .

C 94 WINTER 2018/2019

The Hollywood outpost of buzzy New York design studio Apparatus takes cues from Italian artist Giorgio de Chirico for its sunset-hued palette, and showcases the influence of creative director (and L.A. native) Gabriel Hendifar’s Persian origins in its new collection of lighting, furniture and objects, Act III. 1021 N. McCadden Pl., L.A., 310-935-4575; apparatusstudio.com.

Luxury home goods retailer Anthem has opened Anthem Design Lab in Presidio Heights, where shoppers can customize furniture pieces from brands such as Hancock & Moore and Vanguard Furniture and hand-select fabrics, trims and color combinations. 3252 Sacramento St., S.F., 415-440-6500; anthemsf.online.

Farrow & Ball is upending the experience of buying paint in its new showroom, whimsically designed by L.A.-based Isaac Resnikoff and Sandy Yum of Project Room (the firm behind Sqirl’s interiors), complete with a display of 132 design objects inspired by and painted in the British brand’s hues. 741 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 323-655-4499; us.farrow-ball.com. F.T. APPARATUS Shiraz Vide Poche bowl, $1,400. Above: SOLLOS Mush pendant

by JADER ALMEIDA, from $2,447, at LUMINAIRE.

RESTORATION HARDWARE: COURTESY OF RESTORATION HARDWARE. BLOCKSHOP PORTRAIT: LAURA DART.

tasting room set in a historic craftsman house—into the estate, updating its outdoor trellis-covered spaces with the brand’s Kelly Hoppen textiles, Toluca fire tables and Rococo crystal chandeliers. There, guests can enjoy single-vineyard wine flights before heading over to the new eatery next door for burgers and roast chicken by

Design pioneers since opening their Miami showroom Luminaire in 1974 and devoting it mostly to contemporary European wares, Nasir and Nargis Kassamali have a new 21,000-square-foot space in West Hollywood where offerings include the global debut of Brazilian designer Jader Almeida’s modernisttinged furniture for Sollos. 8840 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 323-579-2800; luminaire.com.

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DESIGN

INN STYLE AN IMMACULATELY APPOINTED

HOUSE NEAR JOSHUA TREE OFFERS A PLACE TO SLEEP AND SHOP With their latest project, a pueblo-like abode in Pioneertown, Whitney Brown and Carlos Naude of 2-year-old multidisciplinary creative studio Working Holiday have brought a global sensibility to the desert. Fusing Scandinavian, Mexican and Mediterranean influences, the husband-and-wife team’s two-bedroom Airbnb rental and design showroom Casa Mami takes immersive shopping to a new level. And while some retailers—such as The Apartment by The Line in Los Angeles and Casa Perfect in Beverly Hills—feature spaces intended to make guests feel like they’re at home, Casa Mami invites them to actually make themselves at home.

The couple has long wanted to merge hospitality with great design that is shoppable. “Every time I go to a hotel, I think, ‘Oh, these sheets are amazing but impossible to find,’ or ‘I like this light fixture—I wonder where they got it,’” explains Naude.

After relocating to L.A. from New York in 2017, he and Brown (who has traveled the world as a model and co-founded the lingerie brand Valentine NYC), moved forward with their idea, honing in on a solar-powered 876-square-foot house set on 5 acres near Joshua Tree National Park.

The pair partnered with a who’s who of independent furniture makers to source fixtures and furnishings that align with their own modern aesthetic. In the living room, a gray Marcel Wanders-designed Moooi sofa and a cylinder-back plywood Waka Waka armchair are joined by a terrazzo-topped Fish and Pink coffee table with a mustard-hued base. High-impact accents, including a monochromatic yellow hallway inspired by Mexican architect Luis Barragán’s bold use of color, punctuate an otherwise subdued palette.

About 80 percent of the items at Casa Mami, right down to the matte black Emtek doorknobs, can be purchased through its website. “It serves as a proof of concept to eventually develop a hotel,” Naude says of their grander ambitions.

“There’s nothing like experiencing and testing out the products for yourself. What’s better than living with it and in it?” From $250/night; casamami.co. • A . M . L .

Clockwise from above: The master bedroom, featuring a LOUISE GRAY Harriet Throw Quilt, $435. CASA MAMI’s lime-washed walls evoke the Mediterranean region. A sign welcomes visitors to the property’s Joshua Tree-adjacent neighborhood.

WORKING HOLIDAY’s WHITNEY BROWN and CARLOS NAUDE with their son, Rico. The living room is decorated with a chair by WAKA WAKA, price upon request, and a vintage fireplace by URBAN AMERICANA, from $1,595.

CARLOS NAUDE

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TRUE BOTANICALS offers skin consultations in its new San Francisco clinic.

ABRAHAM & PAULIN PHOTOGRAPHY

Beauty opener

Natural Instincts

ORGANIC BEAUTY APOTHECARY TRUE BOTANICALS MANIFESTS ITS RAW APPEAL IN THE CITY With a long line of devotees, including chief brand activist Olivia Wilde, the digitally native nontoxic skincare line True Botanicals is known for its use of organic ingredients, antioxidants, vitamins and essential fatty acids. Its premier retail outlet is keeping it real, too. The columns

and shelves of the 1,800-square-foot space, designed by Jeremiah Brent, are made from reclaimed Northern California barn wood and showcase the brand’s cult favorites alongside new aromatherapy blends infused with bay laurel, tarragon and chamomile to combat stress and boost immu-

nity. The store also features a skin clinic and on-site lab that will create small-batch exclusives. “The space turns our beauty rituals into moments for reflection and meditation,” says founder Hillary Peterson.

524 Washington St., S.F., 415-496-3023; truebotanicals.com. • K ER ST I N C ZA R RA WINTER 2018/2019 C 99

BEAUTY

MAESTRO PLAN Beauty and wellness entrepreneur Jasmine ScalescianiHawken (wife of environmentalist and Erewhon founder Paul Hawken) may have found the answer to the age-old problem of banishing cellulite. A longtime leader in rejuvenation therapy, Scalesciani-Hawken is behind the Olio Maestro system. “To treat weight, cellulite and overall health, you need to treat the skin and the lymphatic system together,” says Italian-born, Marin County-based Scalesciani-Hawken, who grew up watching her mother and friends prep for summer by drinking homemade herbal teas to release toxins and excess water weight, and to ensure leaner beach bodies.

They used fennel and dandelion—two of the herbs Scalesciani-Hawken now incorporates in her three-part system, which includes the Depurative Tea to flush out toxins and eliminate water weight; the Body Sculptor oil to wake up the lymphatic system; and the AntiCellulite oil to encourage circulation in combination with suction-cup massage. Trust us; it’s the most potent natural cellulite treatment around. oliomaestro.com. K . A .

OLIO MAESTRO Body Sculptor oil, $90/100 mL, $249/six-week multiproduct system.

Needle Work

STACKEDSKINCARE Microneedling Tool 2.0, $125.

Beauty bits

Aesthetician Kerry Benjamin, founder of StackedSkincare, has created the game-changing Microneedling Tool 2.0. This stainless-steel device with surgical-grade needles on a replaceable roller head creates “micro-injuries” to stimulate collagen production and drive active ingredients into the skin to keep our visages looking younger and plumper.

Benjamin’s tip for best results: “Dull needles tear the skin. Switch out the roller head monthly and properly clean your device after every use.” stackedskincare.com. K . A .

SOOTHE MOVE

Following the success of its four massage boutiques in Los Angeles, The Now has released an all-natural peppermint CBD balm, the first offering from Nourish, its new beauty line.

WITH LOVE ULTIMATE GIFTS FOR THE GLAMOUR ENTHUSIAST

TOM FORD Fucking Fabulous gift set, $380.

The Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous fragrance is a sensual blend with warm amber undertones; the lip color is a vibrant, true red. Together they are intoxicating. tomford.com.

SKINCEUTICALS Custom D.O.S.E., $195.

SkinCeuticals’ new service combines highpotency ingredients with professional expertise to create a personalized corrective serum. In other words, couture skincare has arrived. Cassileth Plastic Surgery, 436 N. Bedford Dr., Beverly Hills, 310909-8187; drcassileth. com; Potozkin MD Skincare Center, 600 San Ramon Valley Blvd., Danville, 925-838-4900; mybeautymd.com.

Newly launched, the Dyson Airwrap styling tool is in a category all its own—it curls, straightens and smooths wet and dry hair, using minimal heat to create maximum results. dyson.com.

thenowmassage.com. K.A .

DYSON Airwrap complete set, $550.

Minimalist-meets-Zen interiors at THE NOW. Left: Nourish peppermint CBD balm, $58/3 oz.

Creed

C R E E D B O UTI Q U E S N EW YO R K • L AS VE GAS • M IAM I • B EVE R LY H I L LS C R E E D B O UTI Q U E.C O M

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CAROLINA HERRERA Fall/Winter 2018.

1. MIRIAM QUEVEDO Black Baccara Dynamic 30% Vitamin C + 24K Gold Booster serum, $275, miriamquevedo.com.

2. CHARLOTTE TILBURY Bar of Gold highlighter palette, $58, charlottetilbury.com. 3. DOLCE & GABBANA The Only One fragrance, $118/100 mL, available in February, macys.com.

4. IN FIORE Fleur Vibrante Solution Botanique serum, $175, infiore.net. 5. CHANEL Stylo Ombre et Contour in Contour Sombre, $34, chanel.com.

6. SHHHOWERCAP The Revel, $43, shhhowercap.com.

7. GLOSS MODERNE Clean Luxury Masque, $65, neta-porter.com. 8. KRISTIE STREICHER Essential Eyebrow Grooming Kit, $225, striiike.com.

9. TATCHA The Kissu Lip Mask, $30, tatcha.com.

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11. RMS BEAUTY Wild With Desire Mini Lipstick, $35/set of five, rmsbeauty .com. 12. FOUNTAIN OF TRUTH Youth in Hand Cream, $28, fountainoftruthbeauty .com. 13. DR. MACRENE 37 Extreme Actives High Performance AntiAging Cream, $295/ 50 mL, drmacrene.com.

14. VINTNER’S DAUGHTER Limited Edition Active Botanical Serum, $305, violetgrey .com. 15. DRUNK ELEPHANT A-Passioni Retinol Cream, $74, sephora.com.

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NOW

ROGER’S GARDENS Christmas at Roger’s Gardens is a seasonal celebration of light and laughter. The aesthetic is fresh and modern, capturing the beauty of nature juxtaposed with sparkling metallics. Twinkling lights mingle with seasonal greens and delicate handblown glass baubles sparkle in a magical palette of color. Spark your holiday spirit and decorate your home for the holidays with a visit to the Christmas Boutique at Roger’s Gardens, open daily from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. An enchanting festive wonderland awaits you. 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, Corona del Mar, 949-640-5800; rogersgardens.com.

THEORY Situated just steps away from the Ace Hotel in Downtown Los Angeles, Theory’s new 1,600-square-foot boutique serves as a creative playground for the fashion brand’s latest collaborations, events and collections. The space, designed

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MANDARIN FAIRMONT SAN JOSE ORIENTAL Fairmont San Jose offers elegance and sophistication set amid the magnificent backdrop of Silicon Valley. The iconic hotel is located in the heart of downtown San Jose, immersed in a unique cultural hub and surrounded by some of the city’s most popular attractions.

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WHETHER YOU’RE AN ART, CULTURE OR NATURE LOVER, HERE ARE THREE EXCUSES TO GET OUT OF TOWN

COURTESY OF THE LINDIS

Travel opener

THE LINDIS lodge, set in the Ahuriri Valley of New Zealand’s South Island.

NATURE IN NEW ZEALAND Arrive in time for summer in New Zealand, in December, when long sunny days sweeten the South Island’s rugged, natural beauty. Then go remote at The Lindis, a new highcountry lodge with a dramatic undulating roof, ensconced on 6,000 acres of the Ahuriri Valley known as Ben Avon Station.

Built on a site formed by a retreating glacier, the minimalist

structure’s interiors are wrapped in warm wood walls that give way to expansive views via floor-to-ceiling windows.

Five suites, a lavish wine cellar, spa pool and restaurant keep life decidedly intimate and simple, so guests can indulge in comforts like high tea and pre-dinner cocktails and charcuterie while feasting on the wild world outside. The lodge is flanked

WINTER 2018/2019 C 107

TRAVEL

Views of the rugged landscape from The Lindis.

by three conservation areas, offering ample opportunities to revel in natural wonders like the ancient, jagged Clay Cliffs and a nightly blanket of starry skies, as well as local life in the nearby township of Omarama, population 400.

What to do: With its headwaters on the Southern Alps, the Ahuriri River winds 43 miles, nurturing pockets of wetland, grassland and forest that make the landscape a hiker’s, mountain biker’s or even bird watcher’s dream.

But perhaps the main draw is fly-fishing: It’s widely considered to be one of the top 10 places on earth to partake in the sport. Rooms from $1,370/night; thelindis.com. M A RT I N E B URY

CULTURE IN MARRAKECH

A Victorian Suite at THE FIFE ARMS, BRAEMAR, featuring antique furnishings and original artworks.

North Africa escapes the bite of Siberian winter winds with temperatures in the 70s and 80s. After haggling in the heat for hand-knotted jute carpets in the souk, there is nothing better than retiring to the Four Seasons Resort Marrakech to recharge. Two palmfringed pools, outdoor hot tubs and tennis courts await—plus a hammam offering wraps and scrubs that will leave you ready to channel your inner Talitha Getty. Morocco demands to be explored by night, with tagines and mint teas aplenty to be sampled at the city’s liveliest restaurants, including Comptoir Darna and Le Grand Café de la Poste.

What to do: The concierge can arrange special access to the Villa Oasis, Yves Saint Laurent’s private residence, where he would seek respite as he conjured his fanciful new collections. Inside the walled gardens you can wander past the mosaic fountains before marveling at the libraries and lounges inside.

The new Saint Laurent museum is another of the highlights of the Red City. Rooms from $450/night; fourseasons.com/marrakech. AN DRE W BARKE R

Travel turn ART IN THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS

FOUR SEASONS RESORT MARRAKECH is situated just five minutes from the medina.

Renowned gallerists Iwan and Manuela Wirth have masterminded a four-year renovation of The Fife Arms, Braemar, in the Scottish Highlands, which now now boasts a blue-chip art collection. Reimagined by interior decorator Russell Sage, the 19th-century former coaching house showcases more than 12,000 artworks, objects and antiques, while rooms nod to the region’s storied past—including quarters that pay homage to Robert Louis Stevenson, Lord Byron and eccentric Vogue editor turned Highland society maven Frances Farquharson.

What to do: Ros Evans, The Fife Arms’ concierge tailors one-of-a-kind itineraries for guests, from traditional field sports and wildlife viewing, to visiting nearby castles and sampling Highland malts from the area’s world-renowned distilleries. During the winter months, catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights, if you’re lucky.

Rooms from $325/night; thefifearms.com. M. B.

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Hudson Grace

The New Hearsts WRITTEN BY JOHN ARLIDGE ILLUSTRATION BY GLUEKIT

Publishing power players of today (from left): LAURENE POWELL JOBS, MARC BENIOFF, JEFF BEZOS, PATRICK SOON-SHIONG and JAY PENSKE.

PreWell Hearst

POWELL JOBS: MATT BARON/SHUTTERSTOCK. BENIOFF: ERIC RISBERG/AP/SHUTTERSTOCK. BEZOS: CLIFF OWEN/AP/SHUTTERSTOCK. SOON-SHIONG: REED SAXON/AP/SHUTTERSTOCK. PENSKE: TODD WILLIAMSON/VARIETY/SHUTTERSTOCK. TIMES BUILDING: JIM WINSTEAD, LICENSED UNDER CC-BY-2.0. VARIETY BUILDING: KEN WOLTER.

CALIFORNIA’S TECH ELITE AND BUSINESS BRAINS ARE BUYING UP THE NATION’S MOST ESTEEMED NEWSPAPERS AND MAGAZINES WITH NO GUARANTEE THEY’LL EVER TURN A PROFIT. WHAT’S IN IT FOR THEM? Every self-respecting Californian billionaire needs a side hustle. Larry Page, Google’s co-founder, is personally funding secretive flying-car startup Kitty Hawk. Oracle co-founder Larry Ellison’s passion is “life extension.” Want to live forever? Click here. Jeff Bezos, Amazon’s founder, who is the world’s richest man, worth $157 billion, is investing about $1 billion a year in Blue Origin, his space exploration company. Elon Musk also has his own rockets, which he wants to use to help mankind conquer Mars.

Other West Coast whizzes have ambitions that are a little more down-to-earth— trying to figure out how to make money in one of the oldest and most troubled industries: print media. San Francisco’s serial investor and the founder of Salesforce, Marc Benioff, worth nearly $6 billion, and his wife, Lynne, bought one of the greatest historic media brands, Time magazine, in September from Meredith Corporation for $190 million. He now joins the ranks of new barons whom observers have dubbed “the new Hearsts”—after William Randolph Hearst, who inherited The San Francisco Examiner from his father in 1887 and went on to build the world’s first modern media empire, becoming the inspiration for Charles Foster Kane in Orson Welles’ film Citizen Kane.

Among this new Californian cadre are part-time L.A. resident Bezos, who bought The Washington Post with $250 million of his private fortune in 2013; L.A.-based biotech entrepreneur Patrick SoonShiong, who snapped up the Los Angeles Times and The San Diego Union-Tribune for $500 million from the Chicago-based Tribune Media Company this past June; Palo Alto-based Laurene Powell Jobs, the philanthropist and widow of Apple’s co-founder, Steve Jobs, who took a majority stake in The Atlantic magazine in 2017; and Venice’s Jay Penske, scion of the Penske automotive dynasty, who has Rolling Stone, Variety and fashion industry bible WWD in his collection.

PreWell Hearst

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Wealthy people have a long history of investing in newspapers. Fortunes have been made. Reputations have been won—and lost. But for the new technology moguls, the benefits are not immediately obvious. Tech is the essence of modernity—the newest of the new, new thing. To many in Silicon Valley, newspapers and magazines are relics of an ancient business landscape that they have done so much to sweep away and replace with something more dynamic and consumer focused. What’s driving the interest?

Kyle Pope, editor-in-chief and publisher of the Columbia Journalism Review, argues: “Rich people seeking to scrub their legacies have always been interested in big media brands. It’s been around since there has been money and news.

Now, the people with the money are in tech. The irony, obviously, is that many of them have spent their careers building companies determined to put print journalism out of business. So we have come full circle. And, given the business pressures of print, publishers are happy to hold their noses and take the cash.”

Rohan Silva, a tech investor based in L.A. and London, says the investments chime with the billionaires’ “problem-solving mindset, desire to do good, and ego, too.

They’ve built their businesses by setting ambitious goals and using an engineering mindset to achieve them. Right now, media faces a host of problems—and these entrepreneurs feel they can solve them.”

Print titles present a monumental challenge. Circulations are shrinking. Advertising dollars continue to migrate from paper and ink to the web. Accountancy

PwC forecasts print advertising revenue for newspapers will fall to $6.9 billion in the United States by 2022, less than half the $17.6 billion they generated in 2013.

Media titles are also battling for credibility when high-profile critics—notably the most visible man in the world, President Donald Trump—are quick to accuse them of publishing fake news.

Silicon Valley is in part to blame for these problems. News is widely available online for free. Google and Facebook are the world’s largest advertising companies and Facebook and Twitter have become a platform for critics who accuse journalists of “fakery.” In these partisan times, politics are at work too. Many tech billionaires are Democrats and regard traditional media as a bulwark against the Republican digital onslaught driven by POTUS, aka the Tweeter-in-Chief. The Democrats’ retaking of the House of Representatives in the midterm elections offers encouragement to Silicon Valley opponents of the president.

In September, Bezos called out Donald Trump’s criticism of the media as “dangerous” in a rare public comment on politics.

Bezos said the president should be “glad” to receive coverage: “What the president should say is: ‘This is right. This is good.

I am glad I am getting scrutinized.’ It’s really dangerous to demonize the media.

It’s dangerous to call the media lowlifes.

It’s dangerous to say they’re the ‘enemy of the people.’” Benioff has been an outspoken critic of Trump in public appearances and through his Twitter account. Powell Jobs donated to Hillary Clinton’s presidential election campaign in 2016, as did Soon-Shiong.

The Benioffs may find their acquisition of Time draws the scrutiny of Trump, for better or worse. Trump is fascinated by Time, and particularly by whom the magazine chooses to feature on its covers and as its annual Person of the Year. The publication has asked Trump to remove fake covers from several of his golf clubs showing him as Person of the Year. Benioff has done more than support liberal media. He has donated $500 million to good causes, including $100 million to build the new University of California, San Francisco Benioff Children’s Hospital as well as $10 million toward the Heading Home Campaign, a charity dedicated to helping 800 homeless families in the Bay Area get off the streets. “Business does not exist in a bubble. Companies can truly thrive only when our communities succeed as well,” he wrote in a New York Times editorial in October.

He told New York Times columnist Kara Swisher he plans to give Time “as much investment as it needs” to succeed.

Whatever the motivation, the largesse of a wealthy new owner can seem like manna from heaven to hard-pressed editors. But critics worry that the “new Hearsts” are assuming an unhealthy influence on the press. “They are buying up the free press, which is meant to hold them accountable,” says Anand Giridharadas, author of Winners Take All, a new book about the global elite. Joanne Barkan, who has long been a critic of big tech, warns the new owners can use titles “to mold public policy to an extent not possible for other citizens.”

PreWell Hearst

HEARST IN CALIFORN

1863 William Randolph Hearst is born in San Francisco—the only child to Phoebe and George Hearst.

1885

Expelled from Harvard University.

His most notorious prank: gifting his professors personalized chamber pots.

1887 Moves to Sausalito, begs his father for The San Francisco Examiner. The 24-year-old Hearst is given full control of the daily.

1906 After a four-year stint in the House of Representatives, Hearst runs for governor of New York and loses. Three years later, he is defeated in the mayoral election.

1919

Hearst inherits a sprawling ranch in San Simeon, which he dubs La Cuesta Encantada, meaning The Enchanted Hill.

Construction begins on Hearst Castle.

1926 As Hearst’s relationship with his mistress, actor Marion Davies, becomes more and more public, his wife of 23 years, Millicent, becomes estranged and moves to New York City.

The old press families of America of the National Security Agency’s covert see it differently. The Grahams—who surveillance of Americans and others bought The Washington Post in 1933 and won a Pulitzer Prize. The Post now earns whose support for editor Ben Bradlee and around $100 million annually from digireporters Bob Woodward and Carl Berntal subscriptions. stein was crucial to the title’s greatest At the Los Angeles Times, biotech scoop, the Watergate scandal that brought entrepreneur Patrick Soon-Shiong is down President Nixon—paint Bezos investing a chunk of his $8.6 billion as a benefactor from a new Gilded Age. fortune in the paper. He has long lived Bezos, who owns two neighboring properties worth a total of $50 million on the same street in Beverly Hills that was once home to Jimmy Stewart, Walter Matthau and Donna Reed, certainly has many of the attributes of the newspaper barons of an earlier age, including Hearst.

He is secretive and ambitious, but as his Trump criticism shows, he values the role of a free press. Since buying the title, he has invested heavily in the newsroom, in developing and promoting a subscriptions model, and in technology, —KYLE POPE, COLUMBIA building a content-management JOURNALISM REVIEW product, Arc Publishing, that numerous other newspapers have since licensed.

His approach appears to be working. in Brentwood with his wife, former Pope of the Columbia Journalism Review actor Michele B. Chan. The couple has says the quality of the Post’s journaldrawn the ire of neighbors for buyism is as good as ever, thanks largely to ing up properties in the area to create scrappy, old-school editor Martin Baron, an ever-expanding family compound, the man who spearheaded The Boston encompassing 13 lots valued at $64 milGlobe’s Pulitzer Prize-winning investilion. He also owns multiple properties gation into sexual abuse in the Catholic in Malibu and one at Laguna Beach. He Church, popularized in the film Spotbought a piece of the Lakers in 2010— light. At the Post, his reporters’ coverage Magic Johnson’s 4.5 percent—and so

“THE PEOPLE WITH THE MONEY ARE IN TECH...

PUBLISHERS ARE HAPPY TO HOLD THEIR NOSES AND TAKE THE CASH.”

gained a seat (four, actually) on L.A.’s most visible celebrity perch: courtside at the Staples Center.

The Los Angeles Times, the largest metropolitan newspaper in the nation and the winner of 44 Pulitzer Prizes, was once the bastion of the West Coast media scene. But after years of painful, protracted decline, the paper has recently descended into chaos. The blame falls largely on Michael W. Ferro, a Chicago-based tech investor who bought a majority stake in the company in 2016 for $44.4 million and mystified media commentators and Wall Street analysts with a strategy to turn the paper into a “global entertainment brand” that would have seen it covering the “Nollywood” film industry in Lagos, Nigeria, among other places.

Staff revolted.

In the run-up to Soon-Shiong’s acquisition of the title there were three editors-in-chief in less than six months and the paper’s publisher, Ross Levinsohn, was suspended after allegations of sexual harassment and “frat house behavior” at some of his previous jobs.

Earlier this year, the newsroom staff, mired in fear and uncertainty at the publication’s future, voted to form a union— the first in the paper’s 136-year history.

Within days, reports emerged that Ferro was trying to bust up the union by creating a separate entity called the Los Angeles Times Network.

PreWell Hearst

IA

BY ANU SH BENL IYAN

1929 Winston Churchill visits Hearst Castle, where he meets and befriends Charlie Chaplin. Other guests include Greta Garbo, Cary Grant and Calvin Coolidge.

1932

On New Year’s Eve, Hearst and Davies host a celebrity-studded masquerade at Davies’ beachfront mansion in Santa Monica.

1935

Hearst’s empire peaks with 28 newspapers and 18 magazines, plus radio stations, news agencies and film companies under his umbrella.

1941 Orson Welles’ masterwork Citizen Kane is released. The megalomaniacal title character is unofficially based on Hearst.

Hearst bans all mention of Citizen Kane in his publications.

1951

At 88, Hearst expires in his Beverly Hills home with Davies and his five sons at his side. Hearst Castle remains unfinished after 30 years and is donated to the state of California.

For many at the paper, Soon-Shiong’s

ownership

likes of Hunter S. Thompson and Tom Wolfe, was called “the bible” during the ’60s and ’70s for its combination of in-depth reporting and coverage of popular culture.

But in recent years it has struggled to keep up with a digital environment and was considered “dead on arrival,” according to an anonymous senior music executive quoted by Vanity Fair. Penske plans to restore the publication to its former glory by rebranding it for a millennial audience. He has invested an estimated $8 million to $10 million in a complete digital and print overhaul which went into effect in 2018, switching the print edition from a weekly to a monthly. Like the Los Angeles Times, Penske is courting controversy by refurbishing Rolling Stone’s iconic curvy, blue-walled, pattern-carpeted headquarters at 1290 Avenue of the Americas in New York to something more in keeping with the magazine’s new direction. He’s also bringing in fresh talent, letting go of roughly 20 Wenner Media employees in order to make room for big names like Ryan Lizza, The New Yorker’s former superstar political correspondent, whose contract was not renewed by Condé Nast.

Is it too much to hope that the “new Hearsts” represent a re-emergence of the public-spirited model of benevolent newspaper ownership? That they will inject legacy titles with new energy and free them from the pressures of short-term profits, while preserving editorial independence? As they come under greater public scrutiny, it would be the ultimate challenge and the ultimate achievement. •

time and social media is a

“RIGHT NOW, MEDIA FACES A HOST OF PROBLEMS— AND THESE ENTREPRENEURS FEEL THEY CAN SOLVE THEM.”

form of metastasis. We need

—ROHAN SILVA, ENTREPRENEUR

of the Los Angeles Times is a stabilizing force. His first move was to make Norman Pearlstine, who has worked for Time, Bloomberg and The Wall Street Journal, executive editor. Soon-Shiong has

pledged

to

dedicate

the publication to combating fake news and clickbait and upholding independent journalism. “I believe fake news is the cancer of our

to change that,” he wrote in an open letter published in the Times earlier this year.

He plans to make Washington reporting a priority and expand the paper’s foreign coverage. He has also moved the paper from its historic art deco building downtown to the suburban city of El Segundo, where he is working on a state-of-the-art studio to extend the

is not Powell Jobs’ first foray into media companies: in 2016 she bought Anonymous Content, the Hollywood studio behind films like Spotlight and The Revenant and TV shows that include Mr. Robot. So far, Powell Jobs has earned high marks for her work at The Atlantic, which has become something of a battleground for America’s intellectual elite, with the likes of James Fallows, Jeffrey Goldberg and Ta-Nehisi Coates penning cover stories.

Jay Penske—of the automotive and racing car dynasty—has a talent for turning around big-name entertainment and fashion publications that have struggled to adapt to changes in the marketplace.

His acquisition of Rolling Stone and ARTnews in 2018 added to a collection that already includes fashion trade bible WWD; Variety, the Hollywood grande dame; and luxury magazine Robb Report. Penske lives in Venice with his wife, supermodel Elaine Irwin, and their daughter. Rolling Stone, once home to the

PreWell Hearst

paper’s video and podcast divisions.

Powell Jobs, who inherited her late husband’s $20 billion fortune in 2011,

becoming the sixth-richest woman in the world, meticulously avoids the

spotlight. She rarely gives interviews and lives quietly in her family’s seven-bedroom Palo Alto home along with her three children. But they vacation at her $16.3 million equestrian property in Los Altos Hills and will soon have the run of a new complex built on a $60 million plot at Paradise Cove in Malibu. And then there’s the $20 million 16,000-square-foot compound in Woodside where she plans to build the dream home her husband started designing before his death. The Atlantic

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PHOTOGRAPHED BY KURT MARKUS. CREATIVE AND FASHION DIRECTION BY ALISON EDMOND. HAIR BY CHRIS MCMILLAN AT STARWORKS ARTISTS. MAKEUP BY JO STRETTELL AT TRACY MATTINGLY. MANICURE BY EMI KUDO AT OPUS BEAUTY. SPECIAL THANKS TO DUSTY AND JADE RHODES. CINDY CRAWFORD WEARING A SALVATORE FERRAGAMO DRESS, PRICE UPON REQUEST, KENDALL CONRAD EARRINGS, $230, AND BRACELET, $195. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.150.

WINTER 2018/2019

Feature opener

WINTER MONTH 2018/2019 2018 C 121 00

Feature cindy

LOUIS VUITTON dress and earrings, prices upon request. TORY BURCH boots, $498.

Being Feature cindy THE MOTHER, MOGUL AND MENTOR REFLECTS ON HER BELOVED MALIBU AND FOUR DECADES ON FASHION’S FRONT LINE WRITTEN BY ROB HASKELL PHOTOGRAPHY BY KURT MARKUS CREATIVE AND FASHION DIRECTION BY ALISON EDMOND

Feature cindy

C 124 WINTER 2018/2019

FENDI blazer, $3,390, and skirted trousers, $2,590. RAG & BONE boots, $495. Opposite: BOTTEGA VENETA dress, $4,650. KENDALL CONRAD rings, $85-$130, and earrings, $155. CHLOÉ boots, $1,490.

Feature cindy

PREEN THORNTON LOUIS BY VUITTON dress and earrings, BREGAZZI dress, $1,615. prices upon request.

Opposite: MELISSA JOYdress, MANNING GIVENCHY $1,720, earrings, earrings, $75.

ADELINE $480, and boots, $2,195. ring, $55. TORY BURCH boots, $498.

Feature cindy

On the day the Woolsey Fire breached in Malibu, Cindy Crawford woke up alone in the oceanfront house she shares with her husband, Rande Gerber, and their two children. She unlocked her phone, where the message—in fact, a torrent of messages—was clear: Get out. She was, she recalls, dumbstruck. “I’m not one to hang back with a fire hose. You think, what do I need? I grabbed passports and birth certificates, some of my jewelry, a painting that my daughter had just done, and got on PCH. I saw what looked like a tsunami of smoke coming over the mountains. It was ominous.” Six hours later, Crawford arrived at the home she and Gerber purchased recently in Beverly Hills, which typically serves as an in-town crash pad for her kids. The next day she learned that their Malibu home had been spared, and that many of her friends were less lucky. “We know at least 20 people who lost their houses. It’s a close community.

Fortunately our friends are safe, and I think it’s a reminder to all of us that you are not the stuff you own. But stuff contains memories—that favorite Christmas dish you don’t know you were missing until you look for it.”

In moments of tumult, there is some comfort to be found in symbols of the enduring. One such symbol may be Crawford herself: There she is on a giant billboard hanging over Sunset Boulevard—in red leather, her chestnut tresses approaching their 1986 bigness—and here she is in person, on the roof of Soho House West Hollywood, where the presence of one of the world’s most recognizable faces creates a teacup-rattling charge in a room full of jaded Angelenos usually more adept at pretending not to notice.

No small amount of news has swirled around Crawford of late, though most of it has concerned those proximal to her: last June, Gerber sold the tequila company he founded with George Clooney and real estate heavyweight Mike Meldman for a billion dollars; in the ensuing months, their daughter, Kaia Gerber, 17, became one of the world’s most in-demand models. And now it’s Crawford’s turn (again), in a major campaign for the Swedish label Acne Studios, shot by Sam Abell, who photographed the original Marlboro Man back in the 1980s. She plays a sort of Marlboro woman, replete with cowboy

hat and boots—an icon exploring the idea of iconicity.

“Now here’s a place where I asked Kaia for advice,” Crawford says. “I was like, ‘Should I do this? Is it cool?’ She said, ‘Definitely. Do it.’ At my age, I always like to look at the photographer’s lighting to see how they shoot other women.

That’s not what Sam does—he’s famous for his work in National Geographic. He only uses natural light, dawn or dusk. I thought, this will be either amazing or a disaster. But it clicked. I love the campaign. And I’m kind of owning it, saying, ‘Hey, I’m a 52-year-old woman, but I can still look and feel a certain way.’”

(Kaia evidently approved of the results too, taking to Instagram to comment on the photo, “When your mom is hotter than you.”)

Unlike most of her supermodel peers, Crawford has chosen to live away from the New York-Paris-Milan fashion nexus.

like, ‘Oh, I can be in Milan while my daughter’s there? Perfect, because then she doesn’t feel like I’m stalking her.’

Even if, secretly—this is what I think— she might like it a little bit.” Crawford wears a white linen Tom Ford tuxedo jacket over jeans. Her intense brown eyes counteract the softness of her voice. “I want to make sure she’s not getting overwhelmed. This wasn’t her first season, where everything’s shiny and new. It does start feeling a little more like work.

And I know it can be lonely: there are nights when you don’t have anything to do and you’re sitting in a strange hotel room. I’ll cancel any plans if she wants to hang out with me.”

With the kids launched precociously into the wider world, this is a time of transition for Crawford and her husband.

Although Gerber still runs Casamigos, his tequila brand, they sold their house in Cabo San Lucas, where the family

“I KEEP REMINDING PRESLEY THAT EACH RELATIONSHIP Feature cindy HELPS YOU GET CLOSER TO WHAT YOU DO WANT.” She has built two successful brands— Meaningful Beauty, her skincare line that has sold to over 4 million customers, and the Cindy Crawford Home collection, which is available in more than 500 showrooms across the country—that rely on her fashion bona fides but haven’t prevented her from raising her children in Malibu, where the family has lived for the past two decades. Modeling was always a job and never an identity for Crawford, the valedictorian of her high school in DeKalb, Ill., who landed a scholarship to study chemical engineering at Northwestern University before the runway absorbed her. But with Kaia and her 19-year-old brother, Presley, now commanding runways of their own, Crawford’s relationship to fashion is shifting again.

“I’ll say yes to certain things that will put me in the same city as Kaia during fashion week that maybe I would have passed on before,” she says. “Now I’m

has traditionally spent Christmas holidays alongside the Clooneys and other friends. They would celebrate Christmas early, at home in Malibu, so that gifts didn’t have to be hauled on a plane to Mexico. “My mom loved Christmas, and I love Christmas,” Crawford says. “But our life is very different than the life I grew up with, so trying to establish the same kinds of traditions was hard.” They still pick out a tree as a family and decorate the house together. When the kids were small, Crawford would have them set out a beer for Santa Claus, explaining to them that he was probably sick of all that milk. Crawford invariably makes her mother’s monkey bread for the family to eat while opening presents. (Though Gerber was raised Jewish, they don’t celebrate Hanukkah. Passover is a different story, however; Crawford is extremely proud of her brisket.)

“Our family life has never been busier,” she says. “Malibu was such a great

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO dress, price upon request.

KENDALL CONRAD earrings, $230, and bracelet, $195.

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place to raise the kids. There are fewer distractions, and it fosters a connection to nature—the sunrises, the sound of the ocean, clean air. For my son, who surfs, it’s a respect for a power greater than yourself. But as the kids have gotten older,

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it’s started to feel small for them. They’re in and out. Presley’s entrepreneurial, like his father, and he’s working on a couple of ideas. For Kaia I think it’s hard to come home in some ways. She’ll be in Paris for a week on her own, and then she’s back

in her old bedroom in Malibu and we’re like, ‘What time are you going to be home tonight?’ I’ll always be a mom, checking in.” Kaia was working in Europe when a man opened fire in a bar in Thousand Oaks, a few miles from the Gerbers’ home,

LOUIS VUITTON dress and earrings, prices upon request.

Opposite: GIVENCHY dress, $1,720, earrings, $480, and boots, $2,195.

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killing 12 people. “I’m so sad for this generation of kids that they have to hear about gun violence on a weekly basis. I can’t imagine how their brains process it.

We haven’t sat together yet and discussed it all as a family. It feels weird here—the

energy is off in L.A. right now. We need to have that family dinner.”

Someone once told Crawford never to give advice unless it’s asked for, and she has tried to follow this wisdom even though the mothering instinct sometimes

contravenes it. “Kaia will get mad if I don’t like her outfit,” Crawford explains.

“And I’ll say, ‘You should dress for yourself, honey. But if you ask me, I’ll tell you.

And by the way, if I ask you, I would want you to tell me the truth.’” Collectively,

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reminding Presley that each relationship helps you get closer to what you do want.

The only advice I give, really, is that hopefully in a relationship, you’re both bringing each other up, making each other better people. If you can tick that box, you’re in the right place.”

Of course, in the special case of Crawford’s household, career advice is actively sought and duly valued. While Kaia has not yet picked through her mother’s clothing storage (except for an old Alaïa leather jacket she pinched for Paris last fall), she has certainly picked her mother’s brain.

“What’s been really fun is your teenage kids are usually like, ‘You don’t know what you’re talking about, you don’t get it.’ But in this one area they listen to me,” Crawford says. “At the same time, I understand that even though I know a lot, it’s a different business today. The act of modeling isn’t different, but the extra layer of digital and how to navigate that. I have my opinions, but Kaia has a definite opinion of her own about social media and how she wants to portray herself. What’s been interesting to watch is how quick the trajectory is now for someone like her, with that daily exposure through Instagram.

If I had a fan and they saw me in Vogue one month, they’d have to wait another month to see me again. Now it’s every day, every second. My concern about that is that the use-up rate is going be faster. So as a mother, I’m asking myself, how do I help Kaia have the option of longevity, if she wants it, when people are like, ‘What’s next?’”

Crawford’s own longevity owes in part to the careful protection of her assets. She was never a party girl. She has recently added Pilates to a fitness regimen that includes a personal trainer and regular hikes with girlfriends. (She does not surf, since one of her requirements for a good workout is never to get hurt.) When it comes to her diet, she is, she says, “80 percent good 80 percent of the time,” notwithstanding two small squares of dark chocolate after dinner. “I’ve never wanted to be that mom who said, ‘No, I can’t have ice cream,’” she explains, “because I wanted Kaia, especially, not to equate being pretty with depriving yourself.”

She is a true believer in the products from her Meaningful Beauty line, along with regular facials and Continued on p.150

“RANDE AND I ARE WONDERING, WHAT ARE WE GOING TO DO WHEN THE KIDS REALLY DO LEAVE?” Presley and Kaia have enough tattoos to decorate a sailor’s arm, but here Crawford picks her battles. “I’m not sure that when you’re standing up at your own daughter’s wedding in your 50s they’re as cute as they might have been when you’re 17 and everything’s firm and tight,” she says. “But for them it’s a form of self-expression.”

Crawford feels that Kaia has entered the modeling arena at a time when the #MeToo movement has made it a safer environment for teenage girls. She was never the victim of any abusive behavior during her own heyday. “I have good boundaries, and if someone said something, I had my own tools to defuse the situation. But I do feel

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that Kaia won’t even be put in some of the situations that I had to defuse because everyone is much more cognizant. It used to be that backstage, the second the show was over they let everyone in, and we’d be halfway changed, our pants down. Fortunately that doesn’t happen anymore.”

Though Kaia is not dating yet, where Presley is concerned, prospective paramours are welcomed; Crawford believes it’s a mistake to deny her children the dramas of adolescence, to try to save them from every hurt and heartbreak.

“Sometimes we learn that lesson the hard way,” she says. “I didn’t get it right the first time. I was married before. I keep

SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.150.

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CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC coat, $3,500, and boots, $1,490. GORJANA earrings, $45. ADELINE ring, $55.

Opposite: DIOR jacket, $7,500.

JOSEPH skirt, $515. MELISSA JOY MANNING earrings, $75.

GORJANA bracelet, $125.

LUCCHESE boots, $895.

Hair by CHRIS McMILLAN at Starworks Artists. Makeup

by JO STRETTELL at Tracey Mattingly. Manicure by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty.

Location: Special thanks to DUSTY and JADE RHODES.

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Balenciaga

Balenciaga

BETTINA KOREK, executive director of FRIEZE LOS ANGELES and ALI SUBOTNICK, director of L.A.’s Frieze Projects on the PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIOS back lot. Opposite: The iconic Paramount Pictures Studios water tower.

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Frieze Feature

WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO LAUNCH ONE OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL ART FAIRS IN THE WORLD IN LOS ANGELES? frieze WE HEAR FROM THE MAIN PLAYERS GIVING HOLLYWOOD A STARRING ROLE

WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARMEN CHAN

schools, encyclopedic museums such as LACMA, the envelope-pushing Hammer Museum, the slick new Broad, old-world masterpieces that rarely travel outside Europe at the J. Paul Getty Trust, plus a slew of international galleries and the

“I HOPE THIS MOMENT WILL CATALYZE THE GENERAL Feature CONSCIOUSNESS ABOUT THE ART COMMUNITY.”

world-class contemporary collectors that frequent them, the news that Los Angeles has arrived as a thriving art center is, quite simply, old news. Most importantly, L.A. is a city with thousands of artists living and producing work inspired by their hometown.

But perhaps the last legitimizing star in the glittering constellation that is the L.A. art world is an internationally renowned fair, which is where the latest installment in the Frieze franchise comes in. “It’s exciting. Many fairs are looking to Asia or the Emirates to expand,” says Tatiana Maratchi Legrain, an art advisor to Silicon Valley collectors and European clients, who moved to California by way of Barcelona, Geneva, Boston and New York City. “It’s interesting that Frieze is going to give L.A. a shot.”

Opening February 14 between the Grammys and the Oscars, the timing couldn’t be better: everyone in the global entertainment industry will be in town, as will New York art world players desperate to escape the biting winter weather.

Frieze fairs are places for discovery, discussion and debate as well as the buying and selling of art, and the spectacle promises to be fun, immersive and reflective of L.A.’s unique art landscape.

Spread over four days, 68 galleries from all over the world will be presenting their wares in a Kulapat Yantrasast-designed tent at Hollywood’s storied Paramount Pictures Studios. The $15 million New York Street backlot—46 facades decorated in red brick and black wrought

frieze

—BETTINA KOREK

From top: CAYETANO FERRER’s digital video projection on a wall relief for “Made in L.A.” 2012, Quarter-Scale Grand Entrance, 2012. SARAH CAIN’s two day painting, 2018; “I like to go in and attack the space,” she says. HANNAH GREELY’s sketch for her High and Dry project; she will also be participating in Frieze Projects. A view of the NEW YORK STREET LOT at Paramount Pictures Studios.

Opposite: Korek and Subotnick on the back lot.

QUARTER SCALE GRAND ENTRANCE, CAYETANO FERRER: JOSHUA WHITE. TWO DAY PAINTING, SARAH CAIN: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST. HIGH AND DRY SKETCH, HANNAH GREELY: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND PARKER GALLERY, LOS ANGELES.

“If I have to answer another question about why L.A. is finally on the art world map I’m going to be sick,” one industry insider confides over lunch.

Indeed, that question has lacked relevance for years now. With five major art

CREDITS

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LISA ANNE AUERBACH’s Readings By Dorothy, 2014. Below: A still from TRULEE HALL’s film Serpent Dance for the Red Witches, 2018.

Feature frieze iron, variously used in films such as The Artist and music videos including Jennifer Lopez’s “Ain’t Your Mama”—will be taken over by L.A. artists for site-specific works. Talks and programming include a conversation with this year’s Hammer

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Museum Gala honoree Glenn Ligon hosted by LAXART executive director Hamza Walker at Regen Projects. Bigname sponsorship comes from Deutsche Bank and BMW, and the fair is supported by a star-studded host committee including household names Salma Hayek, Serena Williams and Tobey Maguire alongside art world royalty, the uber-collectors Eli and Edythe Broad and philanthropist and contemporary-art hound Nicolas Berggruen, the “homeless billionaire”.

With the encouragement of Frieze, like-minded organizations and galleries around the city are putting on their own splinter events, creating an art week the city has never seen before.

“I hope this moment

will catalyze the general consciousness about the art community,” says Bettina Korek, the event’s executive director. “I want Frieze to be a place where people feel comfortable acquiring something for the sake of being part of this moment and what it represents for Los Angeles.”

Korek, with her 15-plus years of experience running the arts advocacy nonprofit ForYourArt and being a member of the Los Angeles County Arts Commission, is the ultimate insider. She knows everyone. “This past year she has been actively sitting down with all the people who have a stake in this arts community to make sure that they understand what her vision is and to bring people together. That kind of diligence makes her a valuable asset,” says collector, author and nonprofit founder Angella Nazarian, who is also on the inaugural host committee.

“L.A. is just a different ecosystem and it requires a different language, as well as a different approach,” Korek says. She

READINGS BY DOROTHY, LISA ANNE AUERBACH: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND GAVLAK, LOS ANGELES AND PALM BEACH. STILL FROM SERPENT DANCE FOR THE RED WITCHES, TRULEE HALL: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST. WALKER: ESTEBAN PULIDO. SLOTOVER AND SHARP: LINDA NYLIND, COURTESY OF FRIEZE. SIDDALL: KUBA RYNIEWICZ.

references the book Los Angeles: The Architecture of Four Ecologies by Reyner Banham. “There is an idea presented there that you have to find the language that is specific to the geography to really understand a place, I feel that this is something especially true for a place as unique and diverse as Los Angeles.”

Korek’s in charge of all the moving parts, from the mechanics of running a major event to getting the right people in the door—that includes galleries, advisors and collectors. And Korek thinks even bigger. “We want to invite all Angelenos to participate in the art community,” she says. “It should be a place where people can learn about galleries that they can visit all year long.

I want to build a community around it and establish a foundation so that it can grow and become an annual civic moment. That’s my dream.”

Announced in February, Korek’s appointment is an interesting move in a city with a recent pattern of hiring male outsiders for high-profile art roles—with varying degrees of success. “The L.A. landscape is so decentralized,” says Nazarian. “Anyone who comes to L.A.— it takes them so long to get the lay of the land and to understand who is who and who has the muscle and power to make things happen.”

Add to that, in 2016 Frieze was partially acquired by William Morris Endeavor agency, bringing in capital, star power and vast experience with producing large events, and it sounds like a winning combination. “It put the organization on a level playing field with other fairs, says Victoria Siddall, the London-based director of Frieze Fairs.

Frieze has been smart when looking at the curatorial side of the fair. It hired Chicago art fair veteran Walker to run the talks and programming, and California native Ali Subotnick as curator for Los Angeles’ Frieze Projects. Subotnick has been curating work in the city for the past 12 years and provides the perfect foil to Korek’s vision. One of the curators behind “Made in L.A.” and the Venice Beach Biennial, Subotnick has commissioned L.A.-connected artists to create new work to

THE KEY PLAYERS BETTINA KOREK Her connections via her nonprofit ForYourArt have helped amass a formidable list of 68 galleries and partners for the fair.

ALI SUBOTNICK Ater 10 years at the Hammer Museum, she has been tasked with helming both Frieze Projects and Frieze Film.

ARI EMANUEL The Endeavor CEO purchased a portion of Frieze in 2016, providing access and financial support.

display on the backlot, away from the galleries section, which goes back to the roots of Frieze, “as a place for artists, a platform for a continuous dialogue about art and artists,” says Subotnick.

“The Projects are outside of the market and also offer visitors a different way to engage with and appreciate art—as something to view and interact with, not just as a commodity.” Subotnick has wrangled established artists such as collage icon Barbara Kruger, as well as younger up-and-comers including immersive painter Sarah Cain and sculptor and co-founder of The Underground Museum Karon Davis.

Usually, commissioned work at art fairs is presented in a gallery space or in a tent, but Subotnick wanted to follow the model she used at the Venice Beach Biennial in 2012: ask local artists to play around with the space. “Because the site has such a context of its own, to layer on another theme would be too heavy,” she says. The resulting works are there to be experienced and explored, creating an interplay between artist and the public, a goal that all the players cite as supreme.

“I like using these real-world situations, because art presented in a white cube can be so intimidating and separate from reality and daily life, and when you see it in a familiar environment you have a different experience with it.”

For her piece, Cain selected a faux Victorian brownstone that reminded her of her years living in the Mission District of San Francisco. “It looks like a bombed-out building that someone would inhabit illegally,” she says.

In place of a canvas, she will paint the ceiling, walls, and floor of the interior, adding a sofa, and replacing one of the windows with a stained glass piece hewn by the 121-year-old Judson Studios. Adding to the immersive quality of the installation, Cains is partnering with Beverly Hills-based chocolate company AndSons to hand out Earl Grey-infused dark chocolates in celebration of her two favorite vices.

Meanwhile, Lisa Anne Auerbach, who is known for her comic and wry satirical knitted works and “megazines,” selected a domestic Continued on p.150

Feature frieze VICTORIA SIDDALL A longtime player for Frieze, Siddall oversees all of the global fairs and launched Frieze Masters in 2012.

HAMZA WALKER The legendary programmer and current executive director of LAXART is curating the talks and programming at the fair.

AMANDA SHARP & MATTHEW SLOTOVER Since 1991, the duo has grown Frieze into three magazines and four fairs.

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Aerial view of THE SEA RANCH’s Condominium One, 2015.

IWAN BAAN

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WITH ITS REMOTE LOCATION AND MODERNIST RULE BOOK, THE SEA RANCH CONTINUES TO FASCINATE. AS A NEW EXHIBITION OPENS, WE LOOK BACK AT ITS REVOLUTIONARY ORIGINS, AND WHAT IT MEANS TO LIVE ON HALLOWED LAND

TO BE

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Like Georgia O’Keeffe’s Abiquiú home in Santa Fe, or Donald Judd’s compound The Block in Marfa, the planned community north of San Francisco known as The Sea Ranch is more than a design destination: it’s a mecca for modernist pilgrims.

The story of how the 5,000 acres of rugged coastal Sonoma County land on which The Sea Ranch sits came to be a cult architectural attraction begins in 1964—when Oceanic Properties, a subsidiary of a Hawaiian real estate developer, purchased the unspoiled property from a sheep-ranching family.

Architect Al Boeke was at the helm of what would become a pioneering study in ecological planning, and he recruited an A-list cast to create an idealistic community where people would happily sacrifice such suburban staples as streetlights, lawns and anything-but-neutral drapes to inhabit a 10-mile stretch of land where nature would be front and center.

Landscape designer Lawrence Halprin worked with architectural firm Moore, Lyndon, Turnbull and Whitaker and architect Joseph Esherick to conceptualize the development, governed by a sacred set of design principles providing

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for, among other things, uninterrupted views of the sea and abundant communal space. Every detail of the timber-clad redwood residences, from the angled plank roofs to the slanted towers, was chosen to coexist in harmony with the elements.

From its inception, The Sea Ranch appealed to conservation-minded people who relished a challenge, prized a thoughtful life over a convenient one, and enthusiastically signed The Sea Ranch “covenant,” promising to preserve the place’s character for the present and future in all of their actions.

Having influenced legions of progressive architects, The Sea Ranch is now the subject of a new exhibition at SFMOMA (“The Sea Ranch: Architecture, Environment, and Idealism,” Dec. 22, 2018Apr. 28, 2019; sfmoma.org) co-curated

by Jennifer Dunlop Fletcher and Joseph Becker, who also co-edited a companion title by the same name, featuring archival and modern-day images as well as the development’s iconic graphics (designed

by Barbara Stauffacher Solomon) while exploring its lasting legacy. Here, we excerpt an essay by Becker, in which he

examines the enclave’s beginnings and its enduring appeal. MELISSA GOLDSTEIN

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*******

“The California architectural monument of the 1960s”— so the architectural historian David Gebhard described The Sea Ranch’s Condominium One some twenty years after its construction. From its founding, The Sea Ranch captured the attention of the local and international architecture world, through featured articles in Progressive Archi-

“THE WIDE-RANGING INFLUENCE OF THE SEA RANCH LAUNCHED A NEW ERA...” tecture and Global Architecture—and beyond, in newspapers and publications like Newsweek—not only for the irrefutable allure of its dramatic coastal location or its pioneering use of graphics. More importantly, it was heralded for its unique approach to its site and careful attention to materials, informed by progressive ideals uniquely rooted in

HEDGEROW HOUSES: LAWRENCE HALPRIN COLLECTION, THE ARCHITECTURAL ARCHIVES, UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA; © LAWRENCE HALPRIN. CONDOMINIUM ONE SKETCH: COLLECTION SFMOMA, GIFT OF WILLIAM TURNBULL; © MLTW. MOONRAKER ATHLETIC CENTER BUTTRESSES: PHOTOGRAPH BY MORLEY BAER, 1968; © 2018 THE MORLEY BAER PHOTOGRAPHY TRUST, SANTA FE; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; USED BY PERMISSION; COURTESY SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, UNIVERSITY LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA CRUZ; MORLEY BAER PHOTOGRAPHS, 1951-1989.

JOSEPH ESHERICK AND ASSOCIATES Hedgerow Houses, 1966. Below: MLTW Sketch for Condominium One, 1964. Opposite: Moonraker Athletic Center buttresses, 1968.

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Bay Area history and a sensitivity toward both social and environmental concerns.

In 1965, with only a handful of structures completed on a development site intended to hold thousands, the architecture of The Sea Ranch signaled a new era in building that attempted to hold emerging countercultural impulses and

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developer-driven financial imperatives in a sympathetic balance. So transformative was this initial phase of The Sea Ranch development that it set off a wave of inspiration in form and typology, radiating well beyond Northern California, and set in place a system for the sensitive occupation of a precious landscape that

acknowledged the past while operating from a distinctly modern perspective… …Flying over the Pacific line in 1962, Al Boeke was struck by the beauty of the land. He had been looking for a site with “identity,” and found it in a unique combination of location and terrain, from the ocean cliffs and flat bluffs to

LAWRENCE HALPRIN COLLECTION, THE ARCHITECTURAL ARCHIVES, UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA; © LAWRENCE HALPRIN

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Landscape architect LAWRENCE HALPRIN and his wife ANNA HALPRIN’s ”Experiments in Environment” workshop at The Sea Ranch, July 1968.

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the redwood ridges and Gualala River.

Operating as a developer, his intentions of building on the site were clear, but given his background as a practicing architect, he was also attentive to the impact that the development would have on the landscape. Boeke saw an opportunity to combine the Bay Area’s history

of responsiveness and respect for landscape conditions with a modern agenda, including the development of a new condominium typology that would increase housing density while preserving open space. Crucially, Boeke’s foresight was in assembling an ideal team to contribute to the overall project.

Boeke had worked for Neutra on Mililani Town in Hawaii and was profoundly aware that architecture’s success depended upon synergy between building and site. Key among the collaborators he brought together to realize this vision was the landscape architect Lawrence Halprin, who had worked with

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taming of a majestic coast as represented in the marketing photographs called to a free-spirited generation to sublimely settle in uncharted land. And crucially, it was the manifestation of that vision, the placement of these structures in reverence to the much larger scheme of

Halprin’s Sea Ranch Ecoscore, that earned it so many early accolades and made good on Mumford’s pledge of “that native and humane form of modernism which one might call the Bay Region style, a free yet unobtrusive expression of the terrain, the climate, and the way of life on the Coast.”

CONDOMINIUM ONE, UNIT 9: PHOTOGRAPH BY MORLEY BAER, 1966; © 2018 THE MORLEY BAER PHOTOGRAPHY TRUST, SANTA FE; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; USED BY PERMISSION; COURTESY SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, UNIVERSITY LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA CRUZ; MORLEY BAER PHOTOGRAPHS, 1951-1989. MOONRAKER ATHLETIC CENTER: © LESLIE WILLIAMSON.

Boeke in Los Angeles. Halprin had studied under Gropius at Harvard University, and yet the core tenets of International Style modernism he had absorbed there gave way to an approach inspired by a visit to Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin studio in Wisconsin. Halprin directed his practice toward analyzing regional tactics and material contexts and developing an ecologically driven, holistic vision. In negotiating these concerns, he established a master plan with Boeke, which included hiring a group of consultants from an “unprecedented wide range of disciplines: foresters, grassland advisors, engineers, attorneys, hydrologists, climatologists, geologists, geographers, demographers, graphic artists, public relations and marketing people,” to gain a full understanding of the site and to determine how it would be represented to the public.

The Sea Ranch embodied a vision of progress that was in dialogue with the long history of its site. The early phases were marked by graphic representations of both, from Larry Halprin’s Ecoscore, which charted the land along a timeline of human, geological, and biological history, to Barbara “Bobbie” Stauffacher Solomon’s Swiss rational graphic design for the logo and related graphic materials set in the cleanly modern Helvetica typeface that Solomon had brought back to California from her time in Basel with Armin Hofmann.

The wide-ranging influence of The Sea Ranch launched a new era of Bay Area architecture, with increased recognition of its contributions to a particular aesthetic and to a richer philosophy of “place making.” As Moore and Lyndon observed: “A house is in delicate balance with its surroundings, and they with it.” The Sea Ranch represented not only this distinctive aesthetic, it also blended social interest and ecological sensitivity.

From its origins in the architectural history of Bay Area regionalism and extant vernacular structures came a synthesis with emerging issues of modernism and progressive ideals for how to occupy a landscape. The early phase of The Sea Ranch aimed to lay the groundwork for a new community in partnership with a physically and visually dominant setting. The new frontierism and lonely

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A version of this essay was published as “Building in Place” in The Sea Ranch: Architecture, Environment, and Idealism (San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and DelMonico Books-Prestel, 2019), edited by Jennifer Dunlop Fletcher and Joseph Becker. •

Clockwise from above: Condominium One, Unit 9/ CHARLES MOORE residence interior, 1965. BARBARA STAUFFACHER SOLOMON supergraphics inside The Sea Ranch’s Moonraker Athletic Center, 2018. A copy of Halprin’s organizing design ideas, agreed upon by common consent within the community, 1981.

BEING CINDY CRAWFORD CONTINUED FROM P.132

microdermabrasion, and when she accepts a fashion job these days it’s because she believes it will support her other businesses. But she admits that one of the joys of her furniture line is that it does not depend upon age-defying sleights of hand: “In my Cindy Crawford Home commercials, I can be the woman who has teenage children,” she says.

Crawford says that for years she has flirted with taking on less. But she knows herself: as soon as she dials something back, she’ll get antsy. Though she and her husband have lately ascended to the ranks of the fabulously wealthy, their life is more or less unchanged. “We were already doing the things we wanted to do,” she says. “We’re not about to run out and buy a boat or a plane. But at the same time, Rande and I are wondering, what are we going to do when the kids really do leave? We don’t know yet.”

In May, they celebrated their 20th wedding anniversary. Their friend Kid Rock threw a weekend party for them in Nashville, and Gerber and the kids bought Crawford a trio of Harry Winston eternity bands, which she has scarcely taken off since she unwrapped them. There is no need for Christmas presents this year. “I’m so fortunate,” she says, shaking her head gently, as if a part of her still can’t believe it. “I’m afraid to wish for anything.” •

FRIEZE IN THE FRAME CONTINUED FROM P.141

space to place a “psychic art advisor” who will provide complimentary readings; Kruger is painting a series of signs leading you to the back lot, based on a project she did for Subotnick for the Venice Beach Biennial; Cayetano Ferrer is playing with a corrugated wall and adding flashing neon lights. Trulee Hall will be crafting a giant worm to wind its way in and out of a wrought-iron SoHo-style building. “It’s interesting to see when an artist has limitations and restrictions, what they come up with,” notes Subotnick.

“The roots of Frieze in editorial have informed the way we do fairs, and the curated aspects have always been central to the experience,” adds Siddall. The magazine Frieze, which predates the fairs, will launch its 200th issue at the same time as

C 150 WINTER 2018/2019

Frieze Los Angeles. This blend of commerce, editorial and curatorial focus has been one of the secrets to Frieze’s success.

First published in 1991, it expanded into art fairs in 2003 with Frieze London, then in 2012 with Frieze New York and Frieze Masters (also in London), which focuses on art ranging from ancient to modern.

Ultimately the fair needs to be a financial success, and the definition of financial success from a gallery perspective is that the majority of galleries (if not all) sell enough art to warrant them returning year after year. That means not only locals in the city should come, but also international and U.S. collectors will need to visit and buy. “All of us who live in Los Angeles need to make sure that we promote it.

It is our responsibility,” says Nazarian.

A few quiet critics hint at the risk of fair fatigue as competition comes in the form of FOG Design+Art, Untitled, San Francisco and Zona Maco in Mexico City.

But others counter that this will be the most international event of all of them.

“Everyone I know in New York is coming,” says Cain. “It’s always the time when I get my most studio visits because everyone wants to leave New York.”

“For people in California it’s a no brainer,” adds Claudia Altman-Siegal, whose gallery is the only one from Northern California invited to participate. She knows several art buyers who will make the trip. Many of her tech world clients work full time or have very recent liquidity events. “This world is new to them, and they are interested, but not quite committed enough to drop everything and go to Art Basel for a week,” she says. “They don’t have the time.”

Art advisor Maratchi Legrain, who also teaches art investment and the business of art at the continuing studies program at Stanford University, agrees. She is bringing her local clients from Palo Alto.

“When we heard about L.A. we thought, we will jump on a plane for sure,” she says. “I’m excited. Fairs are less intimidating than galleries for new collectors. And it’s an established-enough fair to become its own destination.”

And for the Angelenos, traffic permitting, it’s an even shorter hop. After all, posits Nazarian: “Why should I be traveling to London or New York to buy art, when it could be right here at my doorstep?” •

Runover

SHOPPING GUIDE COVER Fendi Blue Summer check wool blazer, $3,390, and Blue Summer check wool trousers with pleated skirt attached, $2,590; fendi.com.

Gorjana silver Taner mini hoops, $45, Gorjana, Newport Beach, 949-662-6101. Rag & Bone white Westin boots, $495, Rag & Bone, L.A., 424-245-4816.

THE WHITE STUFF p.48 Prada sneakers, $750, Prada, Costa Mesa, 714-338-2200. Soho Home Barwell cut-crystal martini shaker, $129; sohohome.com. Bang & Olufsen Special Edition Beoplay M5 speaker with artwork by David Lynch, $750; bang-olufsen.com.

Pomellato Nudo moonstone ring, $5,050, Pomellato, Beverly Hills, 310-550-5639. Michael Kors Jet Set Travel snake skin eye mask, $98; michaelkors.com. Maje Goyalu coat in silver crinkle nylon, $630, Maje, Beverly Hills, 310-2712428; maje.com. Red Valentino Flower Puzzle tote bag, $1,150, Red Valentino, Costa Mesa, 714-540-6000. Paco Rabanne silver round Pastille dress, $3,350, Just One Eye, L.A., 323-969-9129.

Vince Teddy Pom wool and cashmere beanie, $125; vince.com. Oculus Go virtual reality headset, from $199; oculus.com. Rimowa x OffWhite Carry-on case, $1,700, Rimowa, Beverly Hills, 310-888-8686. Roberto Cavalli calf leather booties, $850; Roberto Cavalli, Beverly Hills, 310276-6006; robertocavalli.com. Theory wool and cashmere Clairene jacket in Buttercream, $595, Theory, L.A., 213-270-0034. Oscar de la Renta clear mini Alibi bag, $2,390, Oscar de la Renta, L.A., 323-653-0200; oscardelarenta.com. Ember Travel mug, $150; ember.com.

SUNSET SET p.50 Byredo Rose hand wash, $65/450 mL, Barney’s New York, Beverly Hills, 310-276-4400.

Oliver Peoples Bianka Blush Crystal and brown sunglasses, $455, Oliver Peoples, Malibu, 310456-1333. Mark & Graham charging bracelet with a rose gold finish, $159; markandgraham.com.

Boy Smells Redhead candle, $29/8.5 oz.; boysmells.com. Dragon Alliance PXV goggles, $180; greenroom-oc.com. Chanel faded grainy leather handbag with ribbon and metal, $4,500, Chanel, Beverly Hills, 310-278-5500. Irene Neuwirth Fire and pink opal earrings in 18-karat rose gold, $23,220; modaoperandi.com. Larq The Larq self-cleaning bottle in Himalayan Pink, $95; livelarq.com. John Hardy Classic Chain Overlap ring in silver with pave garnets, $1,295, John Hardy, L.A., 310-203-9690. Superbrand Siamese Twin surfboard, $640; superbranded.com. Stuart Weitzman Cassia clutch in blush crystal, $1,250, Stuart Weitzman, Beverly Hills, 310-860-9600.

Clé de Peau Beauté La Crème Holiday, $535/30 mL; net-a-porter.com. Gucci Double G keychain, $250, Gucci, Beverly Hills, 310-278-3451; gucci.com. Star Power: A Simple Guide to Astrology for the Modern Mystic (Quadrille Publishing, $17); chroniclebooks.com. Isaia floral swim trunks, $280; isaia.it.

HELLO, YELLOW p.52 KBH Jewels Bezel bangle with diamonds, $1,950; kbhjewels.com. Nick Fouquet Oasis Zain gold felt hat, $1,325, Nick Fouquet, Venice, 310-310-2315; nickfouquet.com. Scosha Diamond Starry Signet ring in 10-karat yellow gold, $1,180, Esqueleto, Oakland, 510-629-6216; shopesqueleto.com. Leisure Society by Shane Baum Lewitt frames in 24-karat yellow gold, $1,755, Fred Segal, L.A., 310-432-0563. Miu Miu Rider bag, $1,150; miumiu.com. Etro trousers, $910, Etro, Beverly Hills, 310-248-2855. RH

Modern Cannele Task table lamp by Jonathan Browning, $746, RH Modern, West Hollywood, 424-281-1326; rhmodern.com. Ermenegildo Zegna Master & Dynamic turntable, $3,795, Ermenegildo Zegna, Beverly Hills, 310-2478827. Acqua Di Parma Colonia Special Edition eau de cologne, $200/180 mL, Barney’s New York, Beverly Hills, 310-276-4400. Louis Vuitton Horizon soft suitcase, price upon request, Louis Vuitton, Beverly Hills, 310-8590457; louisvuitton.com. Versace I Love Baroque bath slippers, $125, Versace, Beverly Hills, 310-205-3921; versace.com. Copalli Barrel Rested Rum 88 Proof, $35; copallirum.com.

Jimmy Choo Hurley 100 gold liquid mirror leather boots, $1,795, Jimmy Choo, Costa Mesa, 714-327-0644; jimmychoo.com. Mott50 x Margherita Missoni Lucia one-piece swimsuit in Vineyard Tribal, $175; mott50.com.

GREEN IS GOOD p.54 David Webb Brocade bracelet with emeralds and diamonds, price upon request, David Webb, Beverly Hills, 310-858-8006; davidwebb.com. Preen Home Khaki Sketchbook cushion, $355; preenbythorntonbregazzi.com. Wonderplants 2: Your Urban Jungle Interior (Lannoo Publishers, $45); lanoopublishers.com. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Niki Medium bag in vintage leather, $2,250, Saint Laurent, Beverly Hills, 310-271-5051; ysl.com. Tod’s leather passport holder, $175, Tod’s, Costa Mesa, 714-556-0239. EMU Australia Mayberry sheepskin slipper-slide, $60, Ambiance, San Luis Obispo, 805-540-3380; emuaustralia.com.

Graff emerald and diamond Carissa necklace, price upon request, Graff, S.F., 415-926-7000; graffdiamonds.com. Dior Lady Art bag by artist Lee Bul, price upon request, Dior, Beverly Hills, 310-859-4700. Diptyque Pine Tree of Light candle, $72/6.5 oz; diptyqueparis.com.

Burton Fimbulvetr Hikr snowshoes, $269; burton.com. Bally Galaxy leather sneakers, $475, Bally, Beverly Hills, 310-247-1012.

Hermès Parfums Eau de Pamplemousse Rose eau de cologne, $130/3.38 fl. oz., Hermes, Beverly Hills, 310-278-6440. Bottega Veneta Multicolor Double Suede Day tote, $3,500, Bottega Veneta, Beverly Hills, 310-858-6533.

Paul Smith emerald green print heels, $495, Paul Smith, L.A., 323-951-4800. Sandro high-waisted Jacquard trousers, $295, Sandro, Beverly Hills, 310-281-0083; sandro-paris.com.

drinktrade.com. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum, $85/30 mL; sephora.com. Timberland BNY Sole Series Nubuck lace-up boots, $220, Barneys New York, Beverly Hills, 310-276-4400; barneys.com.

TEAL APPEAL p.58 Furla Metropolis Nuvola mini crossbody, $278; furla.com. Volcán De Mi Tierra Blanco tequila, $45; wallywine.com. Cambria lazy Susan in Skye, $175; cambriausa.com. Marco Bicego Paradise necklace with aquamarines and hand-engraved in 18-karat yellow gold, $5,940, Shreve & Co., S.F., 415-421-2600. Tory Burch Spongeware small pitcher, $78, Tory Burch, Beverly Hills, 310-274-2394. Brunello Cucinelli Liquid Velvet blazer, $5,195, Brunello Cucinelli, S.F., 415-982-1200. Tiffany & Co. platinum earrings with emerald-cut aquamarines and diamonds from the 2018 Blue Book Collection, price upon request, Tiffany & Co., Beverly Hills, 310-273-8880. Max Mara Lace Up leather heels, $870, Max Mara, Beverly Hills, 310-385-9343.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph stainless steel watch, $12,100, IWC Schaffhausen, Beverly Hills, 310-734-0520; iwc.com. Martone Cycling Bergen Diamond 3 speed bicycle, $1,600; martonecycling.com.

Valentino Garavani espadrilles, $745, Valentino, Beverly Hills, 310-247-0103. Dennis Hopper: Photographs 1961–1967 (Taschen, $70); taschen.com. David Yurman High Jewelry Gems Oval ring in platinum with tanzanite and diamonds, price upon request, David Yurman, Beverly Hills, 310-888-8618; davidyurman.com.

Kissweh Ola embroidered pillow, $420; kissweh.com.

upon request, Vacheron Constantin, Beverly Hills, 310-598-2026.

BEING CINDY CRAWFORD p.121 Salvatore Ferragamo knit dress, price upon request, Salvatore Ferragamo, Beverly Hills, 310-273-9990. Kendall Conrad small Oblique hoop earrings, $230, and Naked cuff bracelet, $195; kendallconraddesign.com. p.122 Louis Vuitton V-neck dress with fine pleats and twist knot, and Infinity single-plate brass earrings, prices upon request, Louis Vuitton, Beverly Hills, 310-859-0457. Tory Burch Brooke riding boots, $498, Tory Burch, Beverly Hills, 310- 274-2394. p.124 Bottega Veneta Dark Mustard silk dress, $4,650, Bottega Veneta, Beverly Hills, 310-858-6533. Kendall Conrad thin rounded ring, $85, Oblique cuff ring, $120, Esfera ring cuff, $130, and large Essential hoop earrings, $155; kendallconraddesign.com. Chloé Vinny leather boots, $1,490, Chloé, Costa Mesa, 714-481-0308. p.125 Fendi Blue Summer Check wool blazer, $3,390, and Blue Summer Check wool trousers with pleated skirt attached, $2,590; fendi.com. Rag & Bone white Westin boots, $495, Rag & Bone, L.A., 424-245-4816. p.126 Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Stephanie dress, $1,615; preenbythorntonbregazzi.com.

Melissa Joy Manning silver hexagon hoop earrings, $75, Esqueleto, L.A., 213-947-3508.

Adeline silver Crag ring, $55, Esqueleto, Oakland, 510-629-6216. Tory Burch Brooke riding boots, $498, Tory Burch, Beverly Hills, 310-274-2394. p.128 Salvatore Ferragamo knit dress, price upon request, Salvatore Ferragamo, Beverly Hills, 310-273-9990. Kendall Conrad small Oblique hoop earrings, $230, and Naked cuff bracelet, $195; kendallconraddesign.com. p.130 Givenchy Orchid Purple long-sleeve short dress in Zig Zag pleated jersey, $1,720, gold Gem hoops earrings, $480, Lookbook soft leather over-the-knee boots, $2,195, similar styles available, Givenchy, Costa Mesa, 714-5452185. p.131 Louis Vuitton V-neck dress with fine pleats and twist knot, and Infinity Single Plate brass earrings, prices upon request, Louis Vuitton, Beverly Hills, 310-859-0457. p.132 Dior leather Diorodeo lion motif button-up jacket, $7,500, Beverly Hills, 310-859-4700.

Joseph Ward crepe satin skirt, $515; joseph-fashion.com. Melissa Joy Manning silver hexagon hoop earrings, $75, Esqueleto, L.A., 213-947-3508. Gorjana silver Elea cuff, $125, Gorjana, Newport Beach, 949-662-6101.

Lucchese Summer western boots in black ranch hand leather, $895; lucchese.com. p.133 Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Oversize Uniform coat in dark red, $3,500, and Tex harness ankle boots in black, $1,490; calvinklein.com. Makeup: Dior Backstage Brow Palette, $35, Backstage Contour Palette, $45, Backstage Glow Face Palette, $45, Backstage Eye Palette in Warm Neutrals, $49, Diorshow Mascara, $30, Dior Addict Lip Maximizer, $34, Dior Lip Glow in Ultra Pink, $34; dior.com.

Shopping Guide

PURE ORANGE p.56 Hermès Apple watch Series 4 with leather double tour band, from $1,399; apple.com. Dolce & Gabbana Sicily bag in orange rubber, $995, Dolce & Gabbana, Beverly Hills, 310-888-8701; dolcegabbana.it. Whiskey Cocktails, by Brian Van Flandern (Assouline, $50), Assouline, L.A., 424-249-3879. Guess quilted velvet bomber jacket, $168; shop.guess.com. Milla Chocolates candied orange chips, $20, Milla Chocolates, L.A., 323-515-2346; c-stateofmind.com.

M Missoni wool coat, $895, M Missoni, Costa Mesa, 714-641-3170. Christian Louboutin Multicolor Graphic So Kate booties, $1,295, Christian Louboutin, Costa Mesa, 714-754-9200.

Bruno Magli leather covered AirPods earbuds case, $45; brunomagli.com. Rhode Resort Berto pajamas in Black Blossom, $365; rhoderesort.com. Classic Chemex, $44;

PEARL JAM p.84 MVMT Signature Series gold pearl watch with polished gold-toned stainless steel case and strap and a pearl dial, $125; mvmt.com.

Michael Kors Maci watch, $195, Michael Kors, L.A., 310-286-0337. Chopard Happy Sport timepiece featuring a self-winding mechanical movement, white mother-of-pearl dial and case in 18-karat rose gold, $20,800, Chopard, Costa Mesa, 714-432-0963. Bulgari Divas’ Dream watch with 18-karat rose gold case with brilliant and round-cut diamonds, round-cut rubellites and mother-of-pearl elements, $53,000, CH Premier Jewelers, Santa Clara, 408-664-2729. Tissot PR 100 Lady Sport Chic Special Edition, $1,395; us.tissotshop.com. Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Day & Night watch in 18-karat rose gold with leather and diamonds, price upon request, Cartier, Beverly Hills, 310-275-4272. Harry Winston Ocean Biretrograde limited-edition automatic 18-karat white gold timepiece, price upon request, Harry Winston, S.F., 628-8671100. Piaget Extremely Lady watch in 18-karat rose gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds, with a mother-of-pearl dial, $53,000, Piaget, Beverly Hills, 424-280-3018; piaget.com. Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons Poetic Complications timepiece featuring diamonds set in 18-karat white gold, price upon request, Van Cleef & Arpels, Costa Mesa, 714-545-9500; vancleefarpels.com. Rolex Lady-Datejust 28 in Oystersteel with yellow gold and diamonds, $19,150, Rolex, S.F., 415-974-1846. Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements Ottoman Architecture watch in 18-karat white and rose gold with pearls and diamonds, price

PHOTO FINISH p.154 Chanel coat, price upon request, and shorts, $5,850, Chanel, Beverly Hills, 310278-5500. Tiffany & Co. Tiffany T wire ring in 18-karat white gold, $800; tiffany.com. Jimmy Choo Anouk pump in silver Mirror leather, $650, Jimmy Choo, Beverly Hills, 310-8609045; jimmychoo.com.

C Magazine is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com, Subscriptions Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., Canada add $49 postage, Rest of world add $69. Single copies and subscriptions available at shop.magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 1339, Santa Monica CA 90406.

WINTER 2018/2019 C 151

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MAMMOTH ICY BLUES AND ELEVATED TRACK STYLE TAKE ON CALIFORNIA’S SNOWY SIERRA NEVADA SLOPES EDITED BY ANUSH BENLIYAN AND REBECCA RUSSELL 1. BALENCIAGA Track sneakers, $850, Balenciaga, Beverly Hills.

2. HEATH CERAMICS Studio mug, $30, Heath Ceramics, S.F. 3. OAKLEY Jawbreaker Crystal Pop glasses, $213, oakley.com.

4. MARINA B one-of-a-kind Thana ring, $15,500, Just One Eye, L.A. 5. BRAHMIN Leah bag, $265, brahmin.com.

6. 2 MONCLER 1952 Dervaux jacket, $1,685, moncler.com.

7. PERFECT MOMENT Aurora flare pants, $387, farfetch.com.

8. PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI Resort 2019.

9. MIU MIU Resort 2019.

10. TORY SPORT Performance Merino Ski sweater, $248, Tory Burch, Beverly Hills.

11. JIL SANDER beaded nylon Market bag, $780, barneys.com. 12. KANGOL Patch beanie, $38, kangol.com.

13. CHANEL printed bag, $5,600, Chanel, Beverly Hills.

14. BOBBI BROWN Ultra-Violet eye shadow palette, $39, sephora.com.

15. PACO RABANNE Resort 2019.

16. PRADA bag, price upon request, Prada, Beverly Hills.

17. LANEIGE Water Sleeping Mask, $25, us.laneige.com. 18. BURTON Feelgood women’s snowboard, $550, burton.com. 19. OSMIA ORGANICS Recovery Salt Bath, $29, thedetoxmarket.com.

20. FENDI blue metal F hoop earrings, $590, fendi.com.

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CHLOE KIM

MOUNTAIN: MICHAEL LAUFFENBURGER/ SHUTTERSTOCK. OSMIA: COURTESY OF OSMIA.

MAMMOTH MOUNTAIN.

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After finishing first in the women’s snowboarding halfpipe at the 2018 Winter Olympics, Chloe Kim— consequently the youngest woman to ever win an Olympic medal in the sport— brought home the gold to her native California. The Torrancebred athlete, now 18, spent the past decade frequenting Mammoth Lakes and honing her skills at the nearby namesake mountain—the highest ski resort in the state.

“It really feels like a second home to me,” says Kim, who would make the roughly 325mile journey to the town with her father every weekend. “It’s my type of paradise.” Here, the champion’s favorite Mammoth hangouts and nearby musts.

• Black Velvet Coffee is owned by former pro snowboarder Matt Hammer and has a cool L.A.-meets-the-mountain vibe. blackvelvetcoffee.com.

• Unbound Terrain Parks for the halfpipe—duh. mammothmountain.com.

• Mammoth Mountain Inn is my go-to when I’m training. themammothmountaininn.com.

• Dessert’d Organic Bake Shop for delicious organic treats. dessertd.com.

• June Lake is a tiny nearby town with gorgeous lakes and great places to explore with my dog, Reese.

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PHOTO finish

KATHRYN NEWTON

CHANEL coat, price upon request, and shorts, $5,850. TIFFANY & CO. ring, $800. JIMMY CHOO pumps, $650.

Necklaces, Kathryn Newton’s own.

C 154 WINTER 2018/2019

Photofinish PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION STYLING BY REBECCA RUSSELL

Kathryn Newton is discovering the perks of playing Reese Witherspoon’s daughter on HBO’s Emmy award-winning drama Big Little Lies. “I just came back from my first haute couture Dior fashion show,” says the 21-year-old actor, whose resume includes Blockers, Lady Bird and Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri. Meanwhile, she admits she became “obsessed” with collecting vintage jewelry while filming Big Little Lies in Northern California. “Foxy Couture in Monterey has some really amazing Chanel pieces.”

The Los Angeles-based actor isn’t home much these days, which makes wardrobe changes more challenging. “I’ve been wearing the same sweatpants for, like, a year,” she jokes, adding she’s currently shooting a new not-yettitled Netflix series from writerproducer Chris Keyser in Boston.

In addition to filming the second season of Big Little Lies, Newton spent time in upstate New York for December’s family-themed drama Ben Is Back alongside Julia Roberts and Lucas Hedges.

She recently wrapped 2019’s live-action Pokémon Detective Pikachu with Ryan Reynolds in Scotland, where, as an avid golfer, she had the chance to practice her golf swing. “I play in tournaments all the time for charity events,” says Newton, who dreams of having her own tournament one day, and is currently designing a line of golf attire. “I want cute golf clothes that are still appropriate,” she says. “When you feel good in your outfit, you play better.”

• L I NDZ I SCH ARF

HAIR: PETE LAMDEN. MAKEUP: JO STRETTELL AT TRACEY MATTINGLY USING JILLIAN DEMPSEY. NAILS: EMI KUDO AT OPUS BEAUTY USING CHANEL LE VERNIS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR CREDITS, P.150.

Actor

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