C California Style & Culture

Winter 2019/2020

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MARGARET QUALLEY PLUS BEHATI PRINSLOO / LAURA DERN / STUDIO C DEBUT / JOAN DIDION’S GOLDEN STATE

& CU

Hermes

Hermes

Cartier

Cartier

Prada

Prada

Tom Ford

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Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels

Michael Kors

Michael Kors

Kate Spade

Kate Spade

Ben Bridge

Ben Bridge

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Winter 2019/2020 STATEMENTS Step inside the world of C in Newport Beach................................................................................................. 41

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A chic roundup of noir home accents to cozy up to this winter....................................................... 46 Deep Frieze: What to expect at the international art fair’s sophomore L.A. show............ 48 The season’s opulent, jewel-encrusted accessories come cocktail-party ready ............... 56

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Gump’s, the storied San Francisco emporium, unveils a fresh new look................................. 58

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Screen test: Fashion-forward gifts for every genre....................................................................................... 69

FEATURES Dancing with the stars: Margaret Qualley opens up about her breakout year in Hollywood............................................. 82 A new tome on author Joan Didion’s enduring legacy holds a mirror up to The Golden State........................................ 98 In the wake of parity, the top female athletes in the World Surf League continue to make waves................................. 104

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Inside Kelly Wearstler’s redesigned manse, where artistic abandon meets old-school Beverly Hills glamour...... 112

DISCOVERIES Supermodel Behati Prinsloo returns to Namibia..................................................................................................................................................... 121

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How makeup artist Donni Davy lights up the night.............................................................................................................................................. 124 Brigette Romanek’s design-minded California.......................................................................................................................................................... 130

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JOAN DIDION: JOHN BRYSON/NETFLIX. SURFER: WSL/CESTARI. MARGARET QUALLEY: BLAIR GETZ MEZIBOV. FOYER: THE INGALLS. SHOE: MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION. BEHATI PRINSLOO: TRAVIS SCHNEIDER. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

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T H I S J U ST I N . . .

FEATU R I NG

EXCLUSIVE VIDEOS Behind-the-scenes interviews with our cover stars

DINING MUSTS What to order where, from those in the know

TOC ANA DE ARMAS IS CONQUERING HOLLYWOOD IN RECORD TIME

HOT TRAVEL DESTINATIONS Resort news, local guides and more

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EDITORS’ PICKS This month’s wish list

LILLIAN SHALOM

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Elle baroque pearl earrings with diamonds, $650, lillianshalom.com.

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Faubourg malachite watch with diamonds in rose gold, $15,000, hermes.com.

GIANVITO ROSSI Belvedere green satin sandals with crystal buckles, $995, gianvitorossi.com.

Winter 2019/2020

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@ccaliforniastyle

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MARGARET QUALLEY. Photography by BLAIR GETZ MEZIBOV. Creative & Fashion Direction by ALISON EDMOND. Hair by KYLEE HEATH at SWA Agency using R+Co. Makeup by KATEY DENNO at The Wall Group. Manicure by QUEENIE NGUYEN at Nailing Hollywood using Chanel Le Vernis.

QUALLEY wears SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO dress, hat and bracelet.

IRENE NEUWIRTH earrings and ring.

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ILLUSTRATION: DAVID DOWNTON. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

ON THE COVER

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t the end of the year, I find it helpful to focus on setting new intentions for what lies ahead. In this issue, inspiration abounds thanks to groundbreaking women (actors, designers, artists, entrepreneurs and surfers alike) who have found their voices, their strengths, their passions, and run with them — every single day.

Take the women of the World Surf League, athletes who are constantly in search of the perfect wave while also fighting for equal pay (and winning!). We profile six Championship Tour event winners photographed at Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch in Central California.

Interior designer Kelly Wearstler is another inspiration. We visited her at her iconic Beverly Hills home to see how she painstakingly redecorated it in her ever-evolving bold, whimsical style.

Our cover subject, Margaret Qualley, might be new to the scene, but it feels like she was destined for stardom — as evidenced by her standout performance in Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time in … Hollywood and her role in Fosse/Verdon, for which she earned her first Emmy nomination. Next year, there are more big things in store.

For many Californians, one trailblazer is eternal cool girl Joan Didion. The famous writer epitomized icon status back in the ’70s, and her reputation has only grown with time. We have our own ode to Didion in this issue, showcasing a new book of essays inspired by her.

As we make our goals for the future, we look to those who have cut paths before us and to those who are forging a way forward. And from our western vantage point, it seems like anything is possible.

Salvatore Ferragamo

BEVERLY HILLS BEVERLY CENTER WESTFIELD TOPANGA SOUTH COAST PLAZA FASHION VALLEY SAN FRANCISCO WESTFIELD VALLEY FAIR THE FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS THE GRAND CANAL SHOPPES WYNN LAS VEGAS FERRAGAMO.COM

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Photography duo Gemma and Andrew Ingalls — aka The Ingalls — shoot lifestyle and interiors for a range of clients, from Elle Decor to West Elm. They snapped interiors for the new book Kelly Wearstler: Evocative Style, featuring the designer’s own Beverly Hills home, as seen in “Personal Space,” p.112. The couple lives in Silver Lake with their two young children. OUR C SPOTS • Tortoise General Store is a Mar Vista shop of beautifully curated home goods • Botanica Restaurant in Silver Lake is our favorite lunch spot • Gold-Diggers is an 11-room East Hollywood hotel, bar and recording studio that our friends opened last year

New York-based fashion photographer and director Blair Getz Mezibov shot our cover subject, Margaret Qualley, for “Raw Talent,” p.82. His roster of clients includes The New York Times and Harper’s Bazaar, and labels Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren. MY C SPOTS • Park’s BBQ in Koreatown — the bulgogi is fantastic • Boot Star on Sunset for custom boots • Neptune’s Net in Malibu is a little touristy, but it’s the first place I head to after leaving the airport

Contributors

JAMES ROSS MANKOFF Splitting his time between L.A. and Manhattan, lensman James Ross Mankoff — who took portraits of the six trailblazing pro surfers profiled in “Title Wave,” p.104 — got his start learning from photographers Norman Jean Roy and Max Vadukul. Today, he works with The Wall Street Journal, Vanity Fair, BMW and more. MY C SPOTS • Mammoth in the summer — the lakes are beautiful • Leo’s Tacos Truck for the best al pastor in L.A. • The Angeles National Forest is a great escape just outside of the city for solitude and hiking

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STEFFIE NELSON Writer Steffie Nelson has reported on art, design and culture for The New York Times, W and more. Nelson, who calls L.A. home, recently edited and contributed to Slouching Towards Los Angeles, a collection of essays paying homage to Joan Didion that we excerpt for “California Dreaming,” p.98. MY C SPOTS • Casbah at DTLA’s Hotel Figueroa is a mirrored private dining room you enter through a secret bookshelf. It’s exquisite • Tavin Boutique in Echo Park is my favorite vintage shop • The Philosophical Research Society in Los Feliz is an amazing resource for esoteric study

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WORDS BY ANUSH J. BENLIYAN. THE INGALLS: MARK DURLING. BLAIR GETZ MEZIBOV: JENNA KLEIN. JAMES ROSS MANKOFF: MOANA HANA FERRY. STEFFIE NELSON: KEVIN SCANLON.

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S T A T E

MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION. HAIR AND MAKEUP: NATALIE VENTOLA AT OPUS BEAUTY USING ORIBE AND CHANEL LES BEIGES.

Statement Opener

M E Seven of the Californiabased makers that will be showcased at STUDIO C, the new concept boutique

by C at FASHION ISLAND.

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KELLY ATTERTON

ANUSH J. BENLIYAN

MARGRIT JACOBSEN

KELSEY McKINNON

BEST OF THE WEST

Shop like an editor at Studio C’s debut brick-and-mortar in Newport Beach, where the finest of California is on full display

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ince the very first issue of C Magazine nearly 15 years ago — with cover girl Carolyn Murphy frolicking on the beaches of Malibu — we’ve celebrated California’s top creatives, many of whom have flourished right alongside the publication. “We opened the same year and we have never been more than seven blocks away from the C offices,” says Kether Parker, brand director of the fine-jewelry line Hoorsenbuhs.

Now, C is doing a 180-degree turn and sharing a story of its own with the opening of Studio C, a permanent brickand-mortar boutique within Newport Beach’s Fashion Island that honors the best of The Golden State.

The new boutique concept, which follows a successful pop-up at Westfield Century City, felt like a natural next step after years of developing deep connections with our worldclass design community. “As the global authority on all things California style and culture, we spend our days seeking out the best in our beloved state, which is unquestionably at the forefront of fashion, tech, art, design and beauty innovation,” says C founder and editorial director Jennifer Smith. “It has put us in a unique position of understanding the market.”

Alongside a companion e-commerce destination, the goal of Studio C is to translate C’s defining ethos and style into a completely immersive experience.

“We spend our days seekingStatement out the best in our beloved state”

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MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION. HAIR AND MAKEUP: NATALIE VENTOLA AT OPUS BEAUTY USING ORIBE AND CHANEL LES BEIGES.

JENNIFER SMITH

Interiors mastermind Brigette Romanek, of the AD100celebrated Romanek Design Studio (whose clients include Jay-Z and Beyoncé), was brought on to oversee the design of the space. “The inspiration for the store is Cali itself, and all the culture that exists here. Sometimes the light in our state is pink, sometimes it’s yellow and pale blues. It’s ever-changing … it’s Cali dreaming,” says Romanek (see “My California,” p.130).

Inside the ethereal, pastel-hued space punctuated with marble, brass and wood accents, visitors can shop editorcurated luxury brands across every category, all proudly based in California. Hand-selected pieces from Rodarte and Rosetta Getty’s resort collections mix with staples such as Re/Done denim, Jacques Marie Mage eyewear and Ambre Dahan’s Sprwmn leather pants and diamond tennis bracelets. “I feel creativity is at its peak in California,” says Dahan, who notes a special kinship among the designers selected for the store. “It’s a family, we all help, we all support each other.”

Fine jeweler Daniela Villegas is crafting a custom gold vape-holder necklace, and there are beach-ready straw hats from Nick Fouquet along with Heidi Merrick’s highgloss surfboards and new Cali-chic ready-to-wear. “We all understand each other and we speak the same language,” Merrick says. Inspired by the blues of the Pacific in the distance, precious sapphire pieces from Hoorsenbuhs are on offer alongside the brand’s debut eyewear collection.

Rounding out the assortment are home-decor offerings including a curated art selection from Penske Projects and whimsy from the Haas Brothers, as well as cultfavorite products from Vintner’s Daughter, Régime des Fleurs and Vertly (among others) at the beauty counter.

It’s an exciting new chapter embracing the creative and progressive spirit of the west — and at its core, like all things C, it’s a true California story. 401 Newport Center Dr., Ste. A206, Newport Beach, 949-705-3130; shopstudio-c.com. K.M.

Above, clockwise from left: DANIELA VILLEGAS, HEIDI MERRICK , KETHER PARKER , ROBERT KEITH, AMBRE DAHAN, JEROME JACQUES MARIE MAGE and NICK FOUQUET. Right: Studio C shopping bags.

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Valentino Red

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The first-ever brick-and-mortar store from L.A.’s high-performance footwear brand Athletic Propulsion Labs (APL) is now open at The Grove, with 31-foot-tall ceilings, custom decor by artist Peter Gronquist, and at least one limited-edition APL style dropping quarterly. 189 The Grove Dr., Ste. J-25, L.A., 323-900-8080; athleticpropulsionlabs .com. A.J.B.

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AMERICAN IDOL Revered as one of the pioneers of American documentary photography, the late Dorothea Lange is being honored this winter by the Oakland Museum of California (OMCA) with a special exhibition that explores her medium’s crucial role in exposing and correcting social injustices. Lange, who settled in San Francisco at age 23 after leaving her native East Coast in 1918, spent her nearly five-decade career capturing pivotal moments in history, including plights of poverty and oppression from the Great Depression to the internment of Japanese Americans. With around 130 works from the photojournalist’s personal archive (which was gifted to OMCA), “Dorothea Lange: Photography as Activism” is an expansion on the institution’s much-admired 2017 Lange exhibit, and features her portraits of indigent children, laborers and former slaves as well as Migrant Mother, her most iconic work — all of which remain thorougly relevant today. February 2020. 1000 Oak St., Oakland, 510-318-8400; museumca.org. A.J.B.

News 2

From top: Photographer DOROTHEA LANGE circa 1935.

Manzanar Relocation Center, Manzanar, California, 1942.

From top: A range of ATHLETIC PROPULSION LABS footwear, $125$250. THE GROVE APL store facade.

The tranquil koi pond at DIVE PALM SPRINGS.

TIME TRAVEL Palm Springs is synonymous with vintage glamour, but Dive Palm Springs is taking things to the next level.

The private, 11-key auberge, which opened in the fall, nods to the elegance of 1960s Saint-Tropez thanks to coowner Dale Fox and designer Vanessa Schreiber’s singular touches, from a Christian Lacroix ceiling mural to an ornate Belle Epoque elevator turned canopy bed and a 1954 neon artwork of a girl diving that hangs above the koi pond and inspired the hotel’s name.

Features include a restored midcentury pool (surrounded by striped loungers, cabanas and Serena & Lily hanging chairs) and a velvet-clad lounge. Co-owner and general manager Abdi Manavi says, “Dive transports our guests to a romantic, forgotten world where it’s still safe to relax, play, explore and release all the trappings of modern life.” Rooms from $300/ night. 1586 E. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, 760-3232231; divepalmsprings.com. K.R.

MYTHOLOGY MAJOR Grecian-inspired draping for the goddess in you

From far left: TOM FORD. HAIDER ACKERMANN. BURBERRY. BALMAIN. BOTTEGA VENETA. All Spring/ Summer 2020.

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DOROTHEA LANGE: THE DOROTHEA LANGE COLLECTION, THE OAKLAND MUSEUM OF CALIFORNIA, CITY OF OAKLAND. GIFT OF PAUL S. TAYLOR. DIVE HOTEL: BRIAN ASHBY.

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DARK MATTER From natural obsidian to lacquered and matte finishes, noir accents add a modern, moody touch

Design Trend

ANOTHER HUMAN: CHARLIE CHIPMAN. MARCH: BEN KIST. WAKA WAKA: TÊTE-À-TÊTE.

Clockwise from top left: ANOTHER HUMAN Vacation table, $2,150, anotherhuman .la. MARCH Brickett Davda bowl, $235, marchsf.com.

WAKA WAKA Double Cylinder rocker, $2,500, wakawaka.world. LOST & FOUND Cym vase, $320, lostandfoundshop.com.

BRENDAN RAVENHILL Ada 9 sconce, $495, brendanravenhill.com.

ATELIER DE TROUPE Champion lamp, from $1,600, atelierdetroupe.com.

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FRIEZE For the second time, the buzzy global fair blankets Los Angeles with unmissable art and events

B Above: Works by JUDY CHICAGO exhibited at the JEFFREY DEITCH booth at FRIEZE LOS ANGELES 2019. Right: (From left) VICTORIA SIDDALL, director of Frieze Fairs; BETTINA KOREK , executive director of Frieze L.A.; and Frieze co-founders MATTHEW SLOTOVER and AMANDA SHARP.

ursting with ever-expanding museums, new galleries and a population of local art stars, Los Angeles is officially one of the most important culture centers on the planet. The sophomore year of Frieze L.A. — the West Coast outpost of the celebrated international art fair started in 1991 by Amanda Sharp, Matthew Slotover and Tom Gidley with the launch of Frieze magazine — not only is set to break the astounding sold-out attendance (30,000 people) and sales records of last year’s show, but will also infuse the city with edgy exhibits, a groundbreaking film series, public art pieces and an influx of visitors from all over the globe.

“It’s a city that has always been incredibly important for art because of the art schools as well as the great museums and galleries,” says Victoria Siddall, the

director of Frieze Fairs. “With The Broad [and other] museums opening, we’ve seen an increase in energy and activity over the last five to 10 years. Big international galleries are opening in L.A. [Frieze L.A.] builds on that foundation.” Attracting serious collectors, artists, gallerists, critics and art lovers who come to windowshop, the fair has quickly evolved into a seven-day citywide art takeover known as Frieze Week, which is also the name of a publication dedicated to the occasion.

To promote the event this year, a campaign centered on Barbara Kruger’s Untitled (Questions) project will be up for months throughout the city on banners and near landmark locations. There will be numerous programs

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MARK BLOWER

Frieze Long Read

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HANNAH GREELY’s High and Dry, one of the public art projects featured at the fair’s inaugural L.A. edition.

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“L.A. is a city that has always been incredibly important art” FriezeforLong VICTOR IA SI DDALL

and off-site events in partnership with local museums and arts organizations. “We really want to make it feel almost like a festival across the city,” explains Siddall.

“A celebration of art and culture.” Don’t miss the many standout exhibits and gallery shows occuring now through the fair, including “Shirin Neshat: I Will Greet the Sun Again” at The Broad, “Betye Saar: Call and Response” and “Julie Mehretu” at LACMA, “Open House: Gala Porras-Kim” at The Museum of Contemporary Art and “George Rodriguez: Double Vision” at the Vincent Price Art Museum.

For the main event, Frieze L.A. will return to the iconic Paramount Pictures back lot on Melrose Avenue. The location makes sense: The fair has a solid partnership with powerhouse entertainment agency Endeavor, and staging the show on a movie-studio lot adds drama to the experience. “It’s an interesting metaphor for this city itself in that way,” muses Bettina Korek, the executive director of Frieze L.A. “There is a trope of people coming to L.A. to reinvent themselves.

I think for people who live here and for people who are visiting, having the fair on a working Hollywood lot captures some of that movie magic that people are

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looking for.” The setting creates countless organically cinematic moments — perfectly encapsulating Hollywood and, of course, offering endless Instagrammable moments.

“All the soundstages are active essentially while the fair is on,” says Korek. “So people are walking around while productions are being made and then when you step onto the back lot you have these fake New York streets with palm trees and the Hollywood sign in the background.”

More than 70 galleries are a part of the fair, with new additions to the roster this year including David Lewis, Gaga, Gavin Brown’s enterprise, Gladstone Gallery, Goodman Gallery, Skarstedt and Xavier Hufkens. Rita Gonzalez is curating what Korek refers to as the “L.A.focused section,” which will feature the city’s younger galleries (15 years old or less), and Venus Lau, the artistic director of the K11 Art Foundation, is curating the Frieze Film section. “Obviously we have these amazing theaters. We have the Paramount Theatre, which has incredible cinematics,” says Siddall. “So one of the things we thought about is: How do we really use that space?

And so Venus has been invited to curate the program with us. They’ll be screened every day and people can come and see them on the cinema screen.”

In addition to art, film and numerous openings and parties all week long, the fair is highlighting organizations on-site at Paramount. The Women’s Center for Creative Work, Artists for Democracy and Black Lives Matter are just three that will be featured prominently.

“The cities that we’ve chosen to do fairs in — London, New York and now Los Angeles — are key cultural cities,” says Siddall. “There is a huge appetite for culture there, but also a desire for people from all over the world to visit those cities. To see everything that they have to offer. … What I’m really passionate about is the degree to which we are laying a foundation for an annual moment that will encourage visitors and locals to experience art in Los Angeles.” February 14-16, 2020; frieze.com. •

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EXTERIOR: MARK BLOWER.

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PREP SCHOOL Campus chic with a touch of sorority style is the season’s new cool

MODEL: SOFIA ROMAY AT NEXT MANAGEMENT. MAKEUP AND HAIR BY DEE DALY AT OPUS BEAUTY USING DIOR BEAUTY AND ORIBE. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

Trend Sorority

Clockwise from top left: PRADA dress, $2,680, vest, $2,410, and socks, $170, GUCCI backpack, $1,980, and ROGER VIVIER pumps, $1,395.

MM6 MAISON MARGIELA coat, $1,545, top, $395, vest, $535, shorts, $660, necklace (worn as a bracelet), $450, and pumps, $660. Stylist’s own socks. THOM BROWNE jacket, $2,500, dress, $1,450, and boots, $1,190, CHAN LUU ring, $105, and FRAME bags, $350 (each). CHANEL top, $2,100, sweater, $2,300, cardigan, $4,900, bag, $5,500, and boots, $1,700. MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION top, $790, cardigan, $1,570, skirt, $990, and belt, $490, and DR . MARTENS shoes, $170.

Stylist’s own socks. MIU MIU sweater, $1,100, and dress, $3,270, MOSCHINO COUTURE bag, $1,795, JENNIFER FISHER earrings, $150, and ring, $195, and DR . MARTENS shoes, $170. Stylist’s own socks.

Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Styling by ALISON EDMOND 52

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US.SANDRO-PARIS.COM

BEVERLY CENTER, BEVERLY DRIVE,

@SANDROPARIS

WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY,

@SANDROHOMME

SOUTH COAST PLAZA

Sandro

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The new SUPREME store in San Francisco features a skate bowl and sculptures by artist Mark Gonzales.

COUNTER CULTURE

New York City-based videographer William Strobeck staked out Embarcadero Plaza and San Francisco’s vertical streets with an eclectic mix of brash skate tribes to gather footage teasing the Market Street arrival of cultish streetwear label Supreme. The worldwide brand, which James Jebbia first launched as a skate shop 25 years ago in New York, is known for its lack of promotion and IG Easter eggs (such as Strobeck’s films) that drive fevered quests for box-logo shirts, nylon bags, field jackets, limited releases and soonto-be-sold-out collabs. Expect to find the latest at Supreme’s new West Coast location, managed by skate legend Reese Forbes. Spread out over nearly 5,000 square feet, the S.F. outpost will also host the brand’s legendary Thursday product drops, which in the past have included everything from hysteria-inducing burner phones to Nikes inspired by hiphop or ’70s-era Dogtown design. 1015 Market St., S.F., 415-991-2929; supremenewyork.com. E.V.

IN BLOOM

FARMGIRL FLOWERS upcycles biodegradable coffee bags for its signature burlap-wrapped bouquets.

News 4

Christina Stembel’s upbringing on her family’s rural Indiana farm led her to the forefront of the flower delivery and e-commerce industry. Almost a decade ago, she founded Farmgirl Flowers out of her San Francisco home, delivering burlap-wrapped, hand-curated bouquets throughout the Bay Area. The self-funded concept has since grown to serve all of California (and 47 other states). Stembel recently debuted a line of custom candles and vases and, for the holidays, new garlands, wreaths and mini trees, all while continuing to support local NorCal farms. “San Francisco has a culture of not being afraid to root for the new guy, or farm girl, in this case,” she says. “The city really embraced us, and for that we’re forever grateful.” farmgirlflowers.com. M.J.

MADE YOU BLUSH

BLUSHINGTON’s Carte Blush Plus membership, $375/ month, allows for unlimited beauty and dry hairstyling services.

“Makeup, done correctly, is so powerful,” says Stephi Maron, founder of Blushington, the California-based makeup and beauty lounge that launched eight years ago. Now, with locations in Brentwood, West Hollywood, Dallas, New York and Philadelphia, the company’s expanded services include lash extensions, brow shaping, skincare treatments, makeup lessons, and a curated, product-tested boutique with brands that are 98 percent female-founded. Listening to clients’ requests is integral to Blushington’s growth strategy, so when the team was begged to add hairstyling, they delivered.

“Carte Blush Plus offers unlimited dry hairstyling, makeup and lash applications, brow maintenance, a makeup class and other exclusive perks,” Maron says about the new membership offerings, which have turned her operation into a one-stop shop before you hit the holiday party circuit. blushington.com. K.A.

ROYAL AFFAIR From Regency to Victorian, age-old style reigns supreme

From far left: ERDEM. DRIES VAN NOTEN. BURBERRY. ALEXANDER McQUEEN. BROCK COLLECTION. All Spring/ Summer 2020.

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HAIR MODEL: ARNEL HASANOVIC/UNSPLASH.

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David Webb

The Beverly Wilshire - 9500 Wilshire Boulevard • 310-858-8006 • www.davidwebb.com • @davidwebbjewels

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ROLLING STONES From jewel-encrusted bags to boots, opulence is everything for holiday accessories

SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

Trend Bejeweled

Clockwise from top left: ROGER VIVIER Brioche bracelet with crystals, $495.

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Marie Jane bucket bag with flower embroidery, $2,890.

JIMMY CHOO Lyja booties with crystal detail, $2,450.

MOSCHINO COUTURE jewel belt in pink, price upon request. ALEXANDER McQUEEN crystal Beetle box clutch, $4,790. VERSACE crystal cat-eye sunglasses, $1,615.

Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Styling by MARGRIT JACOBSEN 56

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Maje

Autumn / Winter 19 Beverly Center, Beverly Drive, Westfield Century City, South Coast Plaza us.maje.com @majeparis

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PRESENT COMPANY Gump’s, the storied emporium of delicate Mastoloni pearls, bespoke jade pieces and heritage decor from Lalique and Christofle — originally established in 1861 by two brothers as a mirror-and-frame shop — is back on San Francisco’s Post Street. Revived by investment banker John Chachas and his family after a year of closure, the new space includes Robert Kuo’s playful, large-scale lacquered penguins (in addition to his tables and drum stools) plus a revived Christmas Shoppe complete with blown-glass ornaments and letterpress cards. Additionally, tabletop, fine china, crystal and silver wares fit for holiday fetes now appear on the company’s new digital platform. In describing the boutique’s restored array of future heirlooms, Chachas’ daughter Anne, an executive vice president at Gump’s, says, “We’re trying to curate beautiful items from faraway corners of the world that last for generations.” 250 Post St., S.F., 415-338-9821; gumps.com. E.V.

OFF THE HOOK

Local sea bass crudo from LITTLE DOM’S SEAFOOD.

CAYLI CAVACO RECK inside her new KNOCKOUT BEAUTY outpost in Brentwood.

RING LEADER

From top: The reincarnation of GUMP’S features a special selection of one-of-a-kind fine jewelry. The revived original location of the historic San Francisco luxury retailer.

News 1

Warner Ebbink and chef Brandon Boudet, the pair behind Los Feliz mainstay Little Dom’s, MiniBar Hollywood and the retrostyle 101 Coffee Shop, are expanding their culinary empire with a seafood-centric eatery in Carpinteria. “From a culinary perspective, there are few better places to open a restaurant,” says Boudet, who owns a home in nearby Ojai; Ebbink now lives in Carpinteria full time. Two blocks from the beach, Little Dom’s Seafood features classic preparations of local bass and halibut (think piccata and marsala), Santa Barbara uni for crudos and pastas, wood-fired pizza, a raw bar, and Pixie tangerine icebox pie for dessert. Get cozy in one of the red leather booths or order takeaway for a picnic on the sand. “Our goal is to create a place that is immediately welcoming and reminiscent of old-school, red-sauce Italian joints,” Ebbink says. 686 Linden Ave., Ste. 2040, Carpinteria; littledoms.com. K.M.

California transplant Cayli Cavaco Reck, the founder of Knockout Beauty, has opened her largest location yet, an airy space in Brentwood complete with two treatment rooms and a registered pharmacist. The daughter of two iconic fashion editors — Paul Cavaco and the late Kezia Keeble — the self-made skincare expert has amassed an arsenal of knowledge and a loyal following. Her Instagram livestreams are virtual master classes, in which she shares her skincare routines and fields viewers’ questions. Knockout Beauty, a natural extension of her Instagram presence, first opened as a Hamptons popup, followed by a permanent Manhattan location. More than just a store, the company prescribes regimens to treat and conquer clients’ skin challenges, utilizing topselling brands like Environ, Lacrème Beauté, Agent Nateur and Evenswiss. Cavaco Reck explains, “We’re conscious beauty for the modern-minded.”

11724 Barrington Court, L.A., 631-899-3401; knockoutbeauty.com. K.A.

TROPICAL THUNDER Go green with whimsical flora and fauna

From far left: DOLCE & GABBANA. VERSACE. VALENTINO. FENDI. DRIES VAN NOTEN. All Spring/ Summer 2020.

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GUMP’S: DREW ALTIZER PHOTOGRAPHY. KNOCKOUT BEAUTY: MICHAEL CLIFFORD.

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OUTLIER Hotel Californian MEET INSIDER.

SANTA BARBARA

WELCOME TO THE CALIFORNIAN thehotelcalifornian.com

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FORMAL AFFAIR A modern take on the tuxedo reinterprets black-tie style

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Clockwise from top left: SACAI jumpsuit, $2,250.

Stylist’s own bow tie.

CHANEL jumpsuit, $3,200, GIORGIO ARMANI cummerbund, $425, and GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI mules, $750. OSCAR DE LA RENTA blouse, $2,190, and pants, $1,790. STELLA McCARTNEY jacket, $1,730, and pants, $675, and GIORGIO ARMANI tie, $225. MAX MARA coat, $1,990, and pants, $745, SPLENDID T-shirt, $48, and JIMMY CHOO pumps, $795.

ADAM LIPPES top, $1,190, and JIMMY CHOO clutch, $3,995, and pumps, $1,395.

Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Styling by ALISON EDMOND 60

MAGAZ I N EC.COM

MODEL: SOFIA ROMAY AT NEXT MANAGEMENT. MAKEUP AND HAIR BY DEE DALY AT OPUS BEAUTY USING DIOR BEAUTY AND ORIBE. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

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The women behind local mainstay One Gun Ranch are forging new ways forward in Malibu

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ALICE BAM FORD

From top: RANCH AT THE PIER. The shop is stocked with local lifestyle goods and delicacies. ALICE BAMFORD and ANN EYSENRING at ONE GUN RANCH.

Words by ELIZABETH VARNELL 62

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STOREFRONT AND INTERIOR: ANN EYSENRING.

“We don’t sell anything that we wouldn’t want to take home”

or One Gun Ranch’s Alice Bamford, Malibu is “a wildly elemental, incredible vortex.” The city is home to both the biodynamic farm she and partner Ann Eysenring own and the two-story general store called Ranch at the Pier they opened at the end of Carbon Beach’s landmarked jetty. Since Bamford and Eysenring planted roots here in 2008, they have constantly discovered new ways to nourish their community.

On Sundays, Bamford and Eysenring, who live on their ranch, load up a vintage airstream and ’74 Ford truck with fresh produce. “Once a week, the ranch comes to the pier,” quips Bamford, who stocks crates with seasonal goods like avocados, grapefruit, limes, shishito peppers, jalapenos and a host of herbs and spices, all grown in the ranch’s signature Super(ior) Soil.

Raised amid her family’s sprawling organic farms in the Cotswolds, Bamford quietly disseminates her soil-first philosophy while selling seeds and even her trademark compost (a biodynamic mix of manure and alfalfa layered with yarrow, chamomile, stinging nettle, oak bark, dandelions, horsetail and valerian flowers) at the outpost on the pier.

Among the harvest is a new show of L.A.-based artist Jade Antoine’s drawings of rural homesteads, farms, cowgirls and prairie life that runs through January. “Her work is happy and uplifting, reminding us of living in the moment and connecting with nature,” Bamford says. A year after the devastating Woolsey fires, for them, finding creative ways to connect back to the land is vital.

Beyond garden-grown offerings and Antoine’s artwork, Eysenring, who grew up in Malibu, has curated an assortment of beach-inspired goods, from Bay Areacrafted It’s-It ice cream sandwiches to Santa Cruz skateboards and the Bamford apothecary line.

The couple supply restaurants including Spago and Little Beach House Malibu with seasonal produce and create weekly farm-fresh boxes. They also find themselves explaining to rapt admirers the fundamentals of biodynamic farming: following moon cycles for planting, creating alkaline compost for crops and constantly regenerating and revitalizing soil. And lately they’ve been fielding inquiries about their goats, which munch brush to reduce the ever-present fire risk. At the end of a long day, the pair watch the herd roam through the hillsides protecting their slice of heaven. 23000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310-456-8031; ranchatthepiermalibu.com. •

ANDREA BOCELLI

with the SF Symphony and Chorus at Chase Center

DEC 5

Concert is sold out, but VIP Plus Experience packages are still available to get invited to an exclusive rehearsal and private pre-concert cocktail reception with one reserved floor seat in the first 11 rows.

To buy tickets, visit sfsymphony.org/bocelli

NEW YEAR’S One EVE Colorado WITH SETH MACFARLANE and the SF Symphony

DEC 31

Celebrate in style with Grammy award-nominated singer, actor, and director Seth MacFarlane. Watch him light up the stage with the SF Symphony in a performance of holiday favorites.

Elevate your New Year’s Eve experience with a preperformance dinner, premier concert seating, and champagne at intermission.

Explore the full lineup of Holiday concerts by visitng sfsymphony.org/holiday!

SECOND CENTURY PARTNER

sfsymphony.org/ holiday

SEASON PARTNERS

Box Office Hours Mon–Fri

415.864.6000

10am–6pm, Sat Noon–6pm, Sun 2 hours prior to concerts.

Walk Up Grove Street between

Inaugural Partner

Official Airline

Van Ness and Franklin.

BUY TICKETS

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ACT IV Lip Duet tint and balm, $50, by DANIELLE LAUDER for ESTÉE LAUDER .

T A T E M

N T S WATER FEATURES Just north of the hustle and bustle of Downtown Santa Monica are charming, palm-lined residential streets boasting historic Mediterranean Revival dwellings and landmarked Craftsman residences. It’s here that the beachfront, ivy-clad Oceana hotel reopened this fall following a nearly $30 million refresh with almost every conceivable luxury from home. Centered around a freeform pool, 70 suites are outfitted with Frette linens, Loro Piana bedding and Bottega Veneta bath products. With coconut-fig facials on the spa menu and Pelotons in the gym (plus beach cruisers out front), plus customized meals by chef Raphael Lunetta at the guests-only restaurant and thoughtful touches like in-room lavender bundles, it might be even better than home. 849 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 800-777-0758; hoteloceanasantamonica.com. K.M.

News 3 From top: Oversize daybeds surround the pool at Santa Monica’s OCEANA. The hotel’s 70 luxury suites are outfitted with handtufted rugs from Nepal and original works by local artists. The property is peppered with nods to silver-screen icons.

This January, Estée Lauder’s great-granddaughter, rising actor Danielle Lauder, is launching — in conjunction with the iconic brand — a limited-edition makeup range called Act IV, a cinematic nod to Danielle’s fourthgeneration Lauder heritage.

While studying acting at Northwestern University, Danielle taught herself makeup techniques for auditions and performances, inspiring her to “create a makeup collection that looked beautiful in any light.” The seven products were designed for the red carpet (“I tried to find a modern feminine way to capture that film noir quality with soft yet striking colors”) and for the well-appointed home. “We created pieces you’d want to display on your vanity or bedside table — almost like an accessory or artwork,” says Danielle, who now resides in L.A. She adds, “It was really special, learning firsthand the ins and outs of creating a collection and bringing it to life from concept to counter.” esteelauder.com. K.A.

FRESH SQUEEZE Shades of yellow add zest to the catwalk

From far left: CELINE. VALENTINO. OSCAR DE LA RENTA. LOEWE. LOUIS VUITTON. All Spring/ Summer 2020.

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OCEANA: LISA ROMEREIN.

BEAUTY MARK

E

Discover

Fashion Island

your best

life.

D I S C O V E R T H E F I N E S T R E TA I L , D I N I N G A N D E N T E R TA I N M E N T, I N A N U N M AT C H E D C O A S TA L S E T T I N G .

Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Macy’s, AG, Alice + Olivia, Anthropologie & Co., Apple, Drybar, FIG & OLIVE, Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, GARYS, Hyde Park Jewelers, Lilly Pulitzer, Louis Vuitton, Nespresso, Peloton, Rebecca Taylor, RED O Mexican Cuisine by Rick Bayless, Restoration Hardware, Rolex, St. John, SUITSUPPLY, Tesla Motors, THE LOT, Tommy Bahama Home, True Food Kitchen, Urban Decay, Vince, Voluspa, Zadig & Voltaire. Partial list.

Fashion Island © 2019 The Irvine Company LLC. All Rights Reserved. Fashion Island is a registered trademark of Irvine Management Company.

S H O P FA S H I O N I S L A N D.C O M

@ FA S H I O N I S L A N D

C HOLIDAY GIFTS

Hoorsenbuhs

Oliver Peoples

Prima

Big Daddy’s Antiques

Microdame SK 18-karat gold pavĂŠ diamond ring featuring linked Hoorsenbuhs and Spinelli Kilcollin bands, $10,900. spinellikilcollin.com; hoorsenbuhs.com.

OP Aspen snow goggles in matte tortoise, blue-brown and gray-silver, $390. oliverpeoples.com.

Gift Guide

Night Magic intensive facial oil with 150 milligrams of broadspectrum hemp CBD, $88. prima.co.

Custom natural agate side table, price upon request. bdantiques.com.

MedMen

Esqueleto

[statemade] max pre-roll pack, $65/pack of 10. medmen.com/stores; medmen.com/delivery.

Lauren Wolf Jewelry 14-karat hand-carved gold chain-link drop earrings, $1,200. shopesqueleto.com.

Scandia Home

Variance Objects

Luxurious Scandia Down sleep pillows, $138-$1,481. 332 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills; 855 El Camino Real, Palo Alto; scandiahome.com.

Topaz large-stone stud earrings in 14-karat rose and white gold and 18-karat yellow gold, $334. varianceobjects.com.

PROMOTION

200+

CONNECTING YOU TO

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DESTINATIONS ACROSS CHINA & SOUTHEAST ASIA

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Fly Nonstop to Shanghai from LAX & SFO with China Eastern

H A P P Y H O L I D AY S

Country Mart

BARBER LANE • BED BATH & BEYOND • BELCAMPO • CLIC • COPPERFIELD’S BOOKS • COOPER ALLEY SALON • THE CUSHION SHOP • DESIGN WITHIN REACH • EL HUARACHE LOCO ERICA TANOV • FARMSHOP • GEORGE • HEROSHOP • HUDSON GRACE • HUTCHINSON INTERMIX • INTERNATIONAL ORANGE • JAMES PERSE • JOHNNY DOUGHNUTS • LARK SHOES & REPAIR • LARKSPUR LANDING OPTOMETRY • LIVE & LOVE BY FLORA & HENRI • MALIA MILLS MARIN BREWING • MIETTE • POPPY STORE • PRESSED JUICERY • ROLLER RABBIT • RUSTIC BAKERY • SARAH SHEPARD GALLERY • SHAKE SHACK • SOULCYCLE • SPACE NK • STARBUCKS SUGAR PAPER • SUNLIFE ORGANICS • SUSHI KO • THA SIAM • THREE TWINS ICE CREAM • TOY CRAZY • TUTU SCHOOL • URBAN REMEDY • US POST OFFICE & TRADING POST • WELL MADE HOME • WISE SONS BAGELRY • YOGAWORKS COMING SOON: THE GARDENER • PERMANENT COLLECTION

HOLIDAY EVENTS ALL THROUGH DECEMBER marincountrymart.com

L.A. CONFIDENTIAL: MARY EVANS/WARNER BROS/RONALD GRANT/EVERETT. BULLITT: MOVIE STILL. THE GRADUATE: ALLSTAR PICTURE LIBRARY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. VERTIGO: ALLSTAR PICTURE LIBRARY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. REBEL WITHOUT A CAUSE: EVERETT COLLECTION.

For C’s annual gift guide, we celebrate Hollywood’s cinematic history and find inspiration in the silver screen. From Hitchcock’s San Francisco-set thriller Vertigo to the L.A.-backdropped Rebel Without a Cause, we shine a spotlight on five classic films that star the most iconic character of all: California.

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Gift Guide Opener

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Indigo hues for your ride or die

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1. LEICA camera, $2,195; leicacamerausa .com. 2. HERMÈS watch, $7,650; hermes .com. 3. BAXTER OF CALIFORNIA razor, $65; mrporter.com. 4. TAMARA MELLON boots, $795; tamaramellon.com. 5. LEVI’S jacket, $90; levi.com. 6. VRAM earrings, price upon request; vramjewelry.com.

7. REBECCA TAYLOR skirt, $375; rebeccataylor.com. 8. BURBERRY heels, $790; us.burberry.com. 9. MONASTERY serum, $118; monasterymade.com.

10. TRUE BOTANICALS lip balm, $28; truebotanicals.com. 11. JUNIPER book set, $200; juniperbooks.com. 12. COACH 1941 boots, $450; coach.com. 13. RIMOWA suitcase, $1,280; rimowa.com.

14. GIVENCHY bag, $1,990; givenchy.com.

15. SMYTHSON cards, $70; mrporter.com.

16. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO sunglasses, $440; ferragamo.com. 17. LORO PIANA boots, $1,895; loropiana.com. 18. KATE SPADE bag, $248; katespade.com.

19. OFF-WHITE Spring 2020.

20. HOUSE OF MORRISON vase, $30; houseofmorrison.com.

21. STELLA McCARTNEY Resort 2020.

FASHION EDITOR: MARGRIT JACOBSEN. MOVIE STILL: BULLITT. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

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FASHION EDITOR: MARGRIT JACOBSEN. MOVIE STILL: EVERETT COLLECTION. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

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NATALIE WOOD, BEVERLY LONG and JAMES DEAN, in REBEL WITHOUT A CAUSE.

1. CELINE Spring 2020. 2. FERNANDO JORGE earrings, $13,570; fernandojorge .co.uk. 3. LAPIMA sunglasses, $469; gogosha.com. 4. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI bag, $4,195, Brunello Cucinelli, Beverly Hills. 5. SAINT LAURENT RIVE DROITE lighter, $14; yslrivedroite.com. 6. VINCE top, $695; vince.com. 7. PAUL SMITH lamp, $215; paulsmith.com. 8. T.W. HOLLISTER & CO. vermouth, $37; twhollister.co. 9. RED VALENTINO pumps, $525, Red Valentino, S.F. 10. LOEWE card holder, $265; saksfifthavenue.com. 11. CELINE perfume, $320; celine.com. 12. SKEEM DESIGN matches, $48; skeemshop .com. 13. SOPHIE MONET x NANUSHKA earrings, $210; shopstudio-c.com.

14. BANG & OLUFSEN headphones, $500; bloomingdales.com. 15. FENDI bag, $6,200; fendi.com. 16. FASHION IN LA (Phaidon, $80). 17. PRADA sneakers, $650; prada.com. 18. PRADA Resort 2020. 19. FEALS CBD oil, 2,400 mg, $245; feals.com. 20. OLIVIA VON HALLE eye mask, $200; oliviavonhalle.com.

Studio C From the pages of C Magazine comes a new California concept store STUDIO C OPENING DECEMBER 2019 NEWPORT BEACH The best of The Golden State Editor-curated fashion, accessories, beauty & home

Follow us @shopstudio.c Shop online shopstudio-c.com F A S H I O N I S L A N D , 4 0 1 N E W P O R T C E N T E R D R I V E , S U I T E A 2 0 6 , N E W P O R T B E A C H , C A 9 2 6 6 0 P. 9 4 9 -7 0 5 - 3 1 3 0

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ANIMAL INSTINCTS

Wild one-offs guaranteed to seduce

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1. MAJE necklace, $85; us.maje.com.

2. BALENCIAGA sunglasses, $380; balenciaga.com/us. 3. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN bag, $2,290; christianlouboutin.com. 4. BULY 1803 comb, $44; mrporter.com. 5. LOUIS VUITTON sleep mask, $1,010; louisvuitton.com. 6. RH pendant, $1,346; restorationhardware.com. 7. LISA EISNER necklace, $4,550; shopstudio-c .com. 8. VICTORIA BECKHAM BEAUTY eye shadow, $36; victoriabeckhambeauty.com. 9. MIKOH surfboard, $850; shop.mikoh.com.

10. AESOP fragrance, $95; aesop.com/us.

11. NICKEY KEHOE card case, $50, Nickey Kehoe, L.A. 12. TOM FORD boxers, $295; tomford.com. 13. PRO-JECT turntable, $390; sonos.com. 14. GREATS sneakers, $189; greats.com. 15. ARMAN SARKISYAN earrings, $10,300; OK, L.A. 16. NICK FOUQUET hat, $1,275; nickfouquet.com. 17. VERSACE Spring 2020. 18. THE COMMON KNOWLEDGE bag, $395; thecommonknowledge.us.

19. GIORGIO ARMANI Resort 2020.

20. KRISTIE STREICHER grooming kit, $225; shopstudio-c.com. 21. LE MONDE BERYL mules, $585; lemondeberyl.com.

MAGAZ I N EC.COM

FASHION EDITOR: MARGRIT JACOBSEN. MOVIE STILL: ALLSTAR PICTURE LIBRARY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

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1. GRAY WHALE GIN, $43; reservebar.com. 2. MAX MARA bag, $630; us.maxmara.com. 3. JACQUES MARIE MAGE sunglasses, $610; jacquesmariemage.com. 4. OSCAR DE LA RENTA earrings, $290; oscardelarenta.com. 5. ROGER VIVIER mules, $1,200; rogervivier .com. 6. LONGCHAMP backpack, $985; us.longchamp.com.

7. SANDRO sweater, $295; us.sandro-paris.com. 8. CERTAIN STANDARD umbrella, $95; certainstandard.com. 9. EDDIE BAUER power bank, $40; eddiebauer.com. 10. MONCLER scarf, $440; moncler.com.

11. TURQUOISE COAST (Assouline, $85). 12. MYRIAM SCHAEFER bag, $5,350; myriamschaefer.com.

13. SERGIO ROSSI pumps, $750; sergiorossi.com. 14. CHANEL bracelet, $1,750, Chanel, Beverly Hills. 15. TORY BURCH cardigan, $398; toryburch.com. 16. WILLIAM & SON backgammon set, $3,565; mrporter.com. 17. HERETIC perfume, 50 mL, $165; hereticparfum.com.

18. DSQUARED2 Resort 2020.

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6. TIFFANY & CO. necklace, price upon request; tiffany.com. 7. LA PERLA robe, $1,226; laperla.com/ us. 8. T3 MICRO hot rollers, $119; t3micro.com. 9. DIOR lipstick, $38; dior.com. 10. STUART WEITZMAN boots, $875; stuartweitzman.com.

11. ERDEM belt, $695; net-a-porter .com. 12. TOD’S shoes, $845; tods .com. 13. MIU MIU bag, $1,420; miumiu.com. 14. MARSHALL speakers, $399; marshallheadphones .com. 15. AZLEE earrings, $9,600; azleejewelry.com. 16. LEIN gown, $2,350; leinstudio.com. 17. LE LABO aftershave balm, $35; lelabofragrances.com.

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THE YEAR OF MARGARET QUALLEY AT HOME WITH KELLY WEARSTLER JOAN DIDION’S ENDURING INFLUENCE Feature Opener

THE INGALLS

A NEW WAVE IN WOMEN’S SURFING Winter 2019/2020 81

RAW TALENT Feature Qualley

Despite growing up far from the Hollywood spotlight, Margaret Qualley was destined to be in it. The star opens up about her breakout year — from Tarantino to an Emmy nod — and how acting brought her back to her first love Words by ROB HASKELL Photography by BLAIR GETZ MEZIBOV Creative & Fashion Direction by ALISON EDMOND 82

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GUCCI top, $550, and skirt, $9,800. IRENE NEUWIRTH earrings, $11,180.

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BOTTEGA VENETA dress, $5,190, and sandals, $1,270. MARCO BICEGO ring, $560.

SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO dress, $10,500. VHERNIER earrings, $15,400.

Opposite: VERSACE coat, $9,925. GUCCI vest, $2,200. ADINA REYTER earrings, $2,498. IRENE NEUWIRTH ring, $1,760. MIRON CROSBY boots, $1,295.

Hair by SYLVIA WHEELER at Forward Artists using Bumble and Bumble. Makeup by KATE LEE at The Wall Group using Chanel. Manicure by MILLIE MACHADO.

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O

f the myriad small dissonances that lend Quentin Tarantino’s summer blockbuster Once Upon a Time in …

Hollywood its sense of foreboding, perhaps none is as charged as the image of a pair of dirty feet pressing against the windshield of a lemon-ice 1966 Cadillac Coupe de Ville.

“Dance feet,” explains Margaret Qualley, whose turn as Pussycat, a coquettish Manson acolyte opposite Brad Pitt’s stoic stuntman, was among the film’s revelations. “Feet that are just mangled and bad looking and painful and will never go away. Quentin of course knew exactly what he wanted in terms of the setup, with my feet on the windshield, and the last thing I wanted to do was argue with his idea, but I was like, ‘Yo, though.

Let’s just be real here. These are my biggest insecurity in life. I don’t wear sandals. I wear Converse on the beach. You really want to showcase these guys? Isn’t there a footdouble option?’” (For the record, Qualley follows in a long line of Tarantino’s leading ladies — from Uma Thurman to Bridget Fonda — whose feet have taken center stage.)

On a crisp morning in late October, as we sit on the bank of Echo Park Lake under a blue sky, that always-a-dancer sense about Qualley persists. She wears leggings and sneakers and an oversize, threadbare Pink Panther T-shirt, and her limbs flop freely in the grass.

Although she possesses screen-siren looks that bring to mind Isabelle Adjani and Eva Green — the genetic legacy of her modelturned-actor mother, Andie MacDowell — in person Qualley, 25, conveys a goofiness that softens her cheekbones (just as Pussycat’s blunt drollery in Once Upon a Time in …

Hollywood provides a counterpoint to the selfconscious glamour of Margot Robbie’s Sharon Tate). She laughs loudly and loves to poke fun at herself. “People hear my voice and say, ‘Oh! She’s really not cool at all!’ But they think I’m nice, and I’ll take that.”

After our meeting, she will make her way to Sweaty Sundays, the dance class taught by famed choreographer Ryan Heffington in his Silver Lake studio. The class is akin to church for its weekly congregants, and everyone who knows Qualley knows that when she is in Los Angeles, midday Sunday is spoken for. “I love Sweaty Sundays because it’s a low-pressure environment,” she says. “The dance world is very competitive, and I think that the pressure that I put on myself as a young dancer is part of the reason that I ultimately quit.”

“As a dancer, I was a really hard worker, but I was never going to be the best” MARGARET QUALLEY

Qualley was born in Montana but grew up in Asheville, N.C., where her mother has family. Her parents separated when she was 5.

As a child, Qualley never thought of acting, which was her mother’s thing. Dance provided a natural outlet for her perfectionism, and at 14 she left home to board at the University of North Carolina School of the Arts. Her plan was to drop out of high school at 16 and join a small local ballet company, but before her 11th-grade year she moved to New York for a summer intensive. “I was dancing Monday through Saturday, six to eight hours a day,” she recalls, “and then on Sunday I would go to Steps” — the iconic Upper West Side dance studio — “and take open classes. Those open classes are great because it’s very mixed: New York City Ballet principals and people who could be your grandmother. I think it was my second class of the day, and there was this woman in a wheelchair whom I was really struck by. We were in the middle of barre, and I just started watching her. She was so happy, really listening to the music and taking it all in. Obviously she’s not going to be a dancer.

She can’t even stand up, and she’s not getting anything out of this class other than the joy it brings her to watch ballet, to listen to the music, to learn these combinations. I was like, ‘OK, why am I here? I’m not having fun, I’m not enjoying myself. I’m tired, my body hurts, but I don’t want to give myself a day off because I’m competitive and I just want to be perfect.’ That’s not the reason to do something. I started crying, and then I left.

And I never went back to class.”

Her parents, who had tirelessly supported her dance career with car rides and money and applause, were relieved. “It’s such a difficult life,” Qualley says. “Best-case scenario, you still don’t really get paid, your job’s over by your mid-30s, you end up teaching in a small studio.” At the time, there was not much left for her in Asheville: Her older brother, Justin, and sister, Rainey, were in college; her father, Paul Qualley — a former model himself who became a home designer and builder — had moved to Panama; and her mother was on location. She took over an apartment that her sister was vacating in New York, got herself a modeling job, and found a school for working kids. But modeling didn’t suit her. She recalls a month-long stint in Paris as a 16-year-old, amazed but lonely, too shy to make her way into any social scene. There was a moment when, realizing that she had not spoken in about 10 days, she lay in her bed talking to herself just to make sure she could remember how to form words. “Modeling was easy, and I was fortunate enough to be able to capitalize on the way that I looked in a society that will pay you to look that way. But after about four months I was like, ‘I’m lucky and I’m privileged and I’m an asshole, but this is making me very unhappy.’ So I quit.”

Back in New York, her actor boyfriend at the time convinced her to accompany him to an improv class, where she found her calling.

Both ballet and modeling are silent cultures, but acting was an art form in which people seemed to be waiting to hear what she had to say. When she was 18, Qualley landed a role on the HBO series The Leftovers. She has worked steadily since then, and this year she received an Emmy nomination for her role as Ann Reinking in Fosse/Verdon, the miniseries that explores the tumultuous relationship between the choreographer Bob Fosse and his wife, dancer-actor Gwen Verdon.

Reinking, the legendary Broadway dancer and star of All That Jazz, was also Fosse’s romantic partner through much of the ’70s.

“There are only so many dance movies, and I had seen All That Jazz a thousand times,” Qualley says, “but I had never played a real person before.” In order to do justice to Reinking’s famous smoker’s rasp, she listened to every interview she could find, practically memorizing them. Reinking couldn’t bring herself to watch Fosse/Verdon, but she was Qualley’s constant guide throughout the production. They spoke on the phone weekly

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Opposite: VALENTINO gown, $29,000.

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MIU MIU sweater and skirt, prices upon request. THE LAST LINE ring, $1,695 (left).

IRENE NEUWIRTH ring, $1,280. MIRON CROSBY boots, $895.

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CHANEL top, $2,100, and skirt, $5,150. IRENE NEUWIRTH earrings, $7,790.

MISSONI dress, $2,865, and earrings, $475.

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Feature Qualley

and developed a true friendship. “Ann talked about everyone with such love and kindness and admiration. These were very complicated relationships, and the memories were painful for her. But I think she has real love and respect for Bob and Gwen, and that’s what I took away from those conversations.”

After a breakout year, Qualley is “chilling” for a few months — something she admits she isn’t terribly good at — before shooting a couple of indies in January. My Salinger Year, co-starring Sigourney Weaver and based on Joanna Rakoff’s memoir about her time at a literary agency, is scheduled for a spring release, while several larger projects are still under wraps. “Honestly, if people think of me as the girl who dances, I’m happy with that pigeonhole,” Qualley says. “I’ve thought about this a lot. As a dancer, I was a really hard worker, but I

“I’m lucky and I’m privileged and I’m an asshole — but modeling was making me very unhappy. So I quit” MARGARET QUALLEY

was never going to be the best. It was my identity for so long, and it took me a while to figure out who I was apart from it. But the amazing thing is that I wouldn’t have had the opportunities in dance that I have now if I hadn’t left it.” Qualley was the star of a Spike Jonze-directed commercial for a Kenzo perfume, choreographed by Heffington, that went viral in 2016; it was the first time she had danced in five years.

“It reminded me of all the stuff I loved in the first place,” she recalls. “It was so joyous, and it was intentionally messy. The goal was not to be perfect in any way.” She has also made a short film inspired by Romeo and Juliet with the acclaimed contemporary ballet choreographer Benjamin Millepied.

“And then to play Ann Reinking, someone I grew up idolizing. All these things were fulfilling my childhood dreams in a way that never would have happened had I just pursued dance. I thought I was quitting and saying goodbye to that world, and ultimately the path I took led me to such rewarding experiences in it.”

Qualley recently bought an apartment in New York’s East Village, which she is in the process of renovating. She loves to visit Los Angeles, where she stays in Eagle Rock with Rainey, who performs as a singer-songwriter under the name Rainsford. Their mother has also moved to the east side of L.A. Qualley confesses that she hasn’t yet fallen in love with the city. “There are so many great things about Los Angeles, but to me it’s a bit like Disneyland. I like visiting, but you don’t want to live at Disneyland, you know?”

There are moments when she wonders whether the destiny of any Hollywood actor mirrors that of Once Upon a Time in …

Hollywood’s Rick Dalton (played by Leonardo DiCaprio): fading into oblivion on a floatie in his pool in the hills. “Are we going to be making movies in 20 years?” Qualley asks. “Is the world even going to be habitable? Who fricking knows. Maybe I’ll be at my family’s ranch in Montana doing doomsday prep. But the landscape of Hollywood is shifting right now, and I hope it continues to shift as far as opportunities for women and for older women go. Being the person that I am, with every job I get, in the first two weeks I’m sure I’ll be fired, that I’ll never work again.” She laughs her giant, generous laugh. “I only feel confident once I realize that they don’t have the budget to replace me.” X

OpBALMAIN dress, $7,060. MARCO BICEGO earrings, $1,280, and ring, $1,130. Opposite: MISSONI dress, $2,865, and earrings, $475.

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

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SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO dress, $10,500. VHERNIER earrings, $15,400.

Hair by SYLVIA WHEELER at Forward Artists using Bumble and Bumble. Makeup by KATE LEE at The Wall Group using Chanel. Manicure by MILLIE MACHADO.

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Balenciaga

A new generation of writers fall for the allure of Joan Didion’s Golden State-inspired prose and pay tribute to the literary icon’s life and work in the forthcoming essay collection, Slouching Towards Los Angeles

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CALIFORNIA Words by STEFFIE NELSON

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“JOAN DIDION held California up like a diamond, revealing each facet (and flaw),” says author and editor STEFFIE NELSON. Opposite: Didion at home in Hollywood in 1970.

DIDION SEATED: COURTESY OF NETFLIX. DIDION GROUP: JULIAN WASSER/NETFLIX.

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DREAMING Palaris, ut gra, or publissatis, nos, Palii se iam potilicia ius, ex meis conlost atiacer acto peri senimis in vid comnore, compert emoltuam ilinte

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It was as if I’d been handed a psychic map pointing west STE FFI E N E LSON

Haight-Ashbury, after the hippies.

For my own essay “Dark Mirror: Reflections on the Golden Dream” (and the title of this tribute), I turned to the pages of Didion’s seminal 1968 book, Slouching Towards Bethlehem.

The collection grapples with the cultural values of California, and the connection between identity and place — subjects that remain every bit as compelling today.

•••••

“This is a story about love and death in the golden land, and begins with the country.”

Those words, the first sentence of the first essay in Joan Didion’s Slouching Towards Bethlehem, struck me as vividly as the sunshine-yellow and Day-Glo-orange cover I found tucked into my mother’s bookshelf one summer after college. I was an aspiring magazine journalist with a creative writing

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Didion and her husband, JOHN GREGORY DUNNE, at work in their library in Malibu. Opposite: The writer in her Franklin Avenue dwelling.

JOAN DIDION’S TIMELINE

1934 Joan Didion is born in Sacramento — a fifthgeneration Californian.

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1956

1963

Didion graduates from UC Berkeley with an English degree and is hired at Vogue in New York City as a copywriter before becoming an editor.

She works at the magazine for approximately 10 years.

She publishes her first novel, Run River — a haunting portrait of a California family with underlying commentary on the history of The Golden State.

1964 Didion marries fellow writer John Gregory Dunne — whom she met in New York — in San Juan Bautista, Calif. They move to Portuguese Bend in Palos Verdes.

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DIDION AND DUNNE: HENRY CLARKE/CONDÉ NAST/GETTY IMAGES. DIDION SMOKING: JULIAN WASSER/NETFLIX. RUN RIVER: VINTAGE BOOKS. PLAY IT AS IT LAYS: FARRAR STRAUS & GIROUX.

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n The White Album, Joan Didion famously wrote that “a place belongs forever to whoever claims it hardest, remembers it most obsessively ... loves it so radically that he remakes it in his image” — criteria that made California hers for all time. Slouching Towards Los Angeles: Living and Writing by Joan Didion’s Light is a celebration and an investigation of Didion’s ongoing claim on California and its writers — because she, in turn, belongs to us.

Joan Didion grew up in Sacramento, went to college in Berkeley, and then, after a stint in New York City during which she worked at Vogue and met her husband, John Gregory Dunne, she returned to California in 1964 to live for 24 years in Los Angeles. These years were ones of radical change — from the rise of the counterculture through the Reagan era — and in that time Didion became the city’s most important public intellectual, elevating L.A. beyond Hollywood and Hollywood beyond itself. She held California up like a diamond, revealing each facet (and flaw) through meticulous and surprising detail, startling psychological insights and prose so clean it’s incandescent.

Slouching Towards Los Angeles is a love letter and thank-you note, personal memoir and social commentary, cultural history and literary critique. It offers a portrait of a writer and her readers that is as multifaceted as the work that inspired it. Each author finds a unique entry point.

Some meet Didion on the L.A. freeways or Franklin Avenue. Others are more connected through inner landscapes. Some gaze at a photograph — a fleeting instant captured in Hollywood or Malibu — until it speaks its truth. A few enter through side doors like Didion’s recipe collection and the Sacramento state archives. Still others share personal histories that take us to Brentwood’s Mandeville Canyon and San Francisco’s

degree, but Didion had eluded me until that moment, like so many things that don’t appear until we’re ready for them. I’d studied Yeats, though, and I recognized the nod to his poem “The Second Coming,” in which a sphinxlike beast turns its “blank and pitiless” gaze, and slowly moves its thighs. ...

So it was actually the Irish poet — and the acid hues of that 1979 edition, which currently sits on my bookshelf — that led me to this woman whose writing lit up some nerve center in me, speaking to me in a language I’d never heard before, about a California where the sun’s gaze was as pitiless as a beast’s. Somehow I didn’t read futility in her words; I felt desire, and a willingness to risk everything for the prize. Teetering on the edge of adulthood, it was as if I’d been handed a psychic map pointing west.

Love. Death. The golden land. The country.

That opening line of “Some Dreamers of the Golden Dream” is so simple yet so loaded with meaning, it’s almost a mantra. It reveals nothing but promises everything, and puts us in the driver’s seat — because in a flash, epic crimes and passions and landscapes unfurl like teaser reels across our minds. You might even call it lazy, leaning as it does on the reader’s imagination, but that’s the territory of the essay, anyway: the chasm between the glittering projection and what pans out.

We’d like to believe that the dream will send us directly over the rainbow, reinvented and renewed, with pockets full of shiny nuggets and a suntan, too. But of course, the odds are against us. In this land, despair is bred at the same rate as hope, and Didion places her bets on the former. In fact, when this essay was originally published in The Saturday Evening Post in 1966, it was titled “How Can I Tell Them There’s Nothing Left?”

On the surface the tale of a marriage gone sour, an illicit affair and a murder, Didion

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1966 The couple adopts an infant daughter; they name her Quintana Roo. The family moves into an old Greek Revival-style house on Franklin Avenue in Hollywood.

frames this exurban tragedy as the Golden Dream running its inevitable course and, in so doing, flips the narrative so that the dream is more defined by its end than its beginning.

Without the flameout (in this case Lucille Miller’s literal incineration of her husband, Gordon, in the passenger’s seat of their Volkswagen in Bakersfield), we only know half the story.

“Of course she came from somewhere else,” we are told about the 35-year-old mother of

a teenage daughter, “for this is a Southern California story.” From the start, it’s obvious that nothing good can happen in this place just an hour east of Los Angeles, where the winds blow hot and women cobble their aspirations from movies, newspapers and the radio. According to her father, Lucille Miller “wanted to see the world.” In this setup that was her fatal flaw.

What she did get to see was the 1-acre lot through her picture window, and it

1968

1970

Slouching Towards Bethlehem, Didion’s collection of essays largely about California in the 1960s, is published to critical acclaim.

Didion publishes her second novel, Play It as It Lays. The story of a Hollywood starlet who descends into madness, it exposes the dark side of the California dream.

1971 The family moves to Malibu. The Panic in Needle Park, starring Al Pacino and co-written by Didion and Dunne (the couple’s first screenplay), is released.

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wasn’t enough. Didion visited the California Institution for Women at Frontera, where Miller was incarcerated after being convicted of murder in the first degree, and found it to be populated by “murderesses ... girls who somehow misunderstood the promise.” This was already clear about Miller, she implies, from the high lacquered hairdo she’d worn in the courtroom: as ready for her close-up as Norma Desmond ever was.

Didion shows no compassion for Lucille Miller, but I find it hard not to pity this woman who was self-aware enough to realize that she’d settled for a life that would never fulfill her, and foolish and corrupt enough to think she could change her fate by burning her husband alive — an idea that came to

her after watching Double Indemnity. The question is, when and where did the schism happen? Recounting the boilerplate B-movie dialogue exchanged by Miller and her lover, who’d promptly abandoned her once she was accused of murder, Didion asserts, “the dream was teaching the dreamers how to live.” But was it fiction dictating the script, or was this the glass Didion herself was looking through?

She’s such a master at manipulating the tension between utopia and dystopia that many L.A. writers — most of us from somewhere else, too — have internalized this queasy balance as our geographic destiny. But I’ve lived in Los Angeles for more than a decade, and I still don’t know if I’ve been to that pitiless place. I believe I’ve

“The dream was Feature Didion teaching the dreamers how to live” JOAN DIDION Slouching Towards Bethlehem

1979 1978 The family moves to Brentwood.

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Didion releases a second book of essays, The White Album, featuring works that previously appeared in The Saturday Evening Post, Life and The New York Times, among other publications.

1988 Didion and her family leave California for New York City, where she still lives today.

2003 Daughter Quintana Roo falls seriously ill after developing septic shock from pneumonia. While she is comatose in the hospital, Didion’s husband suffers a fatal heart attack at the age of 71 at their dining room table.

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FAMILY PORTRAIT: JOHN BRYSON/NETFLIX. DIDION PORTRAIT: MICHAEL O’NEILL/CORBIS/GETTY IMAGES. THE WHITE ALBUM: SIMON & SCHUSTER. THE YEAR OF MAGICAL THINKING: VINTAGE BOOKS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

Thecouple and their daughter, QUINTANA ROO DUNNE, in Malibu in 1976. Opposite: Didion has lived on the Upper East Side of New York City since 1988.

shielded my eyes against the same slanting sun and heard the Santa Anas rustling through the eucalyptus like snakes, but are those actual memories or just impressions left by language? They are like phantom experiences, in which sensations exist without physical cause.

“The future always looks good in the golden land, because no one remembers the past,” Didion famously claimed in this essay. However, looking at the now iconic portraits of the young writer, I see a woman who is reluctant to smile for the camera, as if happiness or hope were somehow naive, given all that she knows. By any account she actually was living the dream during this time, but the passionate gratitude her fans have for Joan the person can be explained, I think, by our certainty that she never bought into the myth. She had seen the world and accurately gauged its promise. And then she made her place in the sun anyway — defying her own odds. There she will remain, plain and uncompromising, arms crossed — nobody’s fool, nobody’s victim. The fact that her darkest human dread was borne out, decades later, makes her youthful vigilance seem that much more exacting.

I’ve often wondered whether Didion, an avowed atheist who has stated her belief in “geology” over a personal God, knew about Yeats’ dedication to mysticism and the occult when she borrowed the title of her collection from him. His language brilliantly lends itself to the explosive creativity and chaos of the late 1960s — like the “sages standing in God’s holy fire” from his second most famous poem, “Sailing to Byzantium” — but “The Second Coming” also alludes to a pagan awakening that definitely suits the era but may not have suited Joan. Still, I’d like to think that somewhere within her solemn heart — maybe in the part of her that walked onto airplanes

barefoot and gave her daughter the impossible, romantic name of Quintana Roo — she found space for a golden dream to drift in, and a center that would hold. • Excerpted from Slouching Towards Los Angeles: Living and Writing by Joan Didion’s Light, edited

by Steffie Nelson (Rare Bird Books, $27), available February 2020.

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2005

2011

The Year of Magical Thinking, Didion’s memoir about her marriage and the year of grief that followed Dunne’s death, is published and is named a Pulitzer Prize finalist. The same year, her daughter, Quintana, tragically dies from acute pancreatitis at the age of 39.

Didion publishes Blue Nights, a memoir about her daughter’s adoption, parenthood, aging and Quintana Roo’s untimely death.

2013 President Barack Obama awards Didion with a National Humanities Medal.

2015

At age 80, Didion stars in a Celine ad campaign.

2017 Joan Didion: The Center Will Not Hold, a documentary directed by Didion’s nephew, Griffin Dunne, is released on Netflix. In it, the literary icon reflects on her personal life and nearly 60-year career.

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Seven-time WORLD SURF LEAGUE champion STEPHANIE GILMORE.

WSL/DORSEY.

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Words by JAKE HOWARD Portraits by JAMES ROSS MANKOFF 104

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TITLE WAVE

One year after the World Surf League mandated equal pay for women, six of the sport’s leading female competitors meet at Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch to talk about riding in this new era

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n September 2018, the Santa Monica-headquartered World Surf League (WSL) announced that for the first time in the sport’s turbulent history, the prize money for male and female surfers across all WSL events, including the Championship Tour, would be equal.

The road to pay equality has been long and at times gut-wrenching. In 1976, six female surfers set out on the first-ever women’s world tour. Their initial stop was the Women’s Chapstick Pro in South Africa. Two days before the event, the sponsor came to them and conceded that they didn’t have the prize money because they didn’t think the competitors would even show up.

Instead, contest organizers proposed holding a nationwide raffle to raise the prize money — with the winner of the raffle getting a date with one of the surfers. The women immediately said no. Ultimately, they were forced to settle for splitting a $1,000 prize purse that was cobbled together at the last minute.

Today, with world champions like Carissa Moore and Stephanie Gilmore leading the charge in this new era, the true impact of the move toward equality is just starting to come into perspective, from the upper ranks of the Championship Tour to the lowest tier of the Qualifying Series and everything from big-wave contests to longboard festivals.

Gilmore, Moore, and their fellow competitors Lakey Peterson, Courtney Conlogue, Caroline Marks and Sally Fitzgibbons marked the first anniversary of the WSL’s momentous decision with a roundtable discussion at the Freshwater Pro competition, held at Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch in Lemoore. Between equal pay and surfing set to debut at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, the sport is having a banner year. Here are the women to keep your eyes on in the lineup.

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CAROLINE MARKS

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t the start of the 2019 WSL Championship Tour season, 17-yearold Caroline Marks came out throwing haymakers. Her win at the Boost Mobile Pro Gold Coast was a groundbreaking moment in surf history, because it made her the first woman to receive equal prize money as her male counterpart — a check for $100,000.

“I think Caroline was so fitting for the 106

first athlete to win, just because it was like a changing of the guard,” explains fellow competitor Stephanie Gilmore.

Raised in Melbourne Beach, Fla., Marks now makes her home in San Clemente. The move allows her to work closer with her sponsors, and traveling out of LAX is a big plus for somebody who is on the road 10 months out of the year for international contests. Plus, she

loves the waves at nearby Trestles.

Marks is currently ranked third on the tour and is in contention for her first world title at the final event of the year, the Lululemon Maui Pro. In only her second full season on tour, her powerful approach to riding waves has already had an impact on the sport, and she is poised to be a world champion in years to come.

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ourtney Conlogue is a force to be reckoned with. Her exuberance and gritty determination make the 27-yearold regular-footer one of the women on the WSL Championship Tour who truly match power against power when the ocean starts pumping.

Growing up in landlocked Santa Ana, she would often bike nearly 20 miles to Huntington Beach to surf. The dedication and sacrifice paid

off: Conlogue finished runner-up for the world title in 2015 and 2016, and after dealing with a foot injury in 2018 she came back this year to win the prestigious Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach for the third time — one of the oldest events in professional surfing.

“You look at the legacy that happened generations prior,” Conlogue says, “the women, a lot of the first winners, didn’t have Bells or

prize purses or anything. And every time I win that Bell, it’s special.”

There’s also a soft side to the fierce competitor. She is a skilled artist with a knack for nature-inspired paintings. “It’s something that provides me with an escape from all the pressure and gives me an outlet that I can really get lost in and have fun with,” she explained during the 2018 Vans U.S. Open in Huntington Beach.

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anta Barbara’s Lakey Peterson has always thrived on competition. From cutting her teeth on the perfect point break waves at Rincon to competing on the junior circuit, she’s consistently pushed herself to be the best.

Currently ranked second, this year the 25-year-old has a very real shot at capturing 108

her first world title. And she admits that equal pay may have something to do with the fire she’s got burning. “It has maybe switched the focus a little bit from, I guess, appearance-based things to just wanting to be the best surfers that we can be, and it’s very contest-driven and performancedriven,” she says.

Renowned for her progressive approach, the California-bred athlete is just as apt to bust an aerial move as lay down a powerful carving maneuver. And now with the same financial opportunities as her peers on the men’s tour, she’s able to chase her dream and concentrate purely on her athletic performances.

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he consummate, highly tuned Sally Fitzgibbons might just be the hardest working surfer on tour. At age 18, she set a new record when she secured the Qualifying Series championship faster than any woman before her. Besides her well-refined act in the water, the 28-year-old Australian is a seasoned distance runner and

endurance athlete who thrives on pushing the physical envelope.

“I feel like there’s been a lot of shift changes, even in my 11 years on tour,” says Fitzgibbons, who recently clinched a spot at the 2020 Olympics. “In the lineup, no one really bother[s] you when it’s your turn anymore.”

She charges big waves, and when she’s not

competing she mixes things up on all kinds of different boards. Her spot in the lineup, as for many women of a similar caliber, is not dismissed like before.

She continues, “All these little things have accumulated to be something pretty momentous. I think it’s a special chapter, for sure.”

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efore Carissa Moore was even a teenager in Hawaii, she was blazing a radical new path for surfing with recordbreaking wins. She broke the sponsorship mold, inking deals with big-name brands including Nike, Target and Red Bull. To date, she’s earned three world titles.

When she’s not striking fear into the hearts of her competitors, she’s bubbling over with 110

the aloha spirt. She’s taken a group of Hawaiian girls under her wing to mentor them. And last year she launched a broader program called Moore Aloha to empower young girls through surfing. “It’s great to see that these girls have a career path to look forward to, and just with the coverage that the WSL has provided, it’s something for the girls to watch and aspire to be,” she says. “I think that’s awesome.”

Currently ranked No. 1 on the tour with one more stop on the 2019 schedule, the 27-year-old has already won two contests this year, and her track record at the Maui Pro, held at the iconic point break at Honolua Bay, is impressive: Since 2014, she’s won the contest three times. And while Moore’s clearly living in the moment, she also has her eyes on the future — especially the next generation of talent from Hawaii.

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hen seven-time world champion Stephanie Gilmore first learned that the WSL was offering equal prize money for men and women, she admits, she got teary-eyed.

Behind all of the winning, it’s been a long road for the 31-year-old Australian icon. Since claiming her first title in 2007, she’s endured injuries and an international profile that still

overwhelms her from time to time.

She grew up surfing Australia’s premier point break at Snapper Rocks, and these days when she’s not on the road chasing waves, she splits her time between back at home on the Gold Coast and living in L.A. A lover of art and music, she’s just as likely to be found exploring art museums in L.A., taking in a concert on Sunset Boulevard or surfing at Point Dume.

Perhaps it’s her proximity to Hollywood’s Time’s Up movement that’s shaping what she believes is the next step for gender equality in surfing. “I think the biggest change moving forward is getting the stories told,” Gilmore says. “That’s how you inspire the new generation and grow the sport and grow the audience, so I think that’s really the next step.” • 111

PERSONAL SPACE After two years of paring down her famously maximalist Beverly Hills manse, Kelly Wearstler reveals her most evocative project yet

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In the butler’s pantry — painted in PRATT & LAMBERT PAINTS’ Blue Spruce — KELLY WEARSTLER preps for a fete at her Beverly Hills house.

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Originally designed and built in 1957 by architect JOHN AUGUST REED, the San Diego home was recently updated by STUDIO SHAMSHIRI. The clients have a view of the ocean framed by the landscape, including the podocarpus tree.

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his is my lab,” says Kelly Wearstler of the 1926 Georgian-style house she has famously slathered in vibrant Technicolor paint, wallpapered in strikingly clashing patterns, and filled with miles of metals and marble in the 14 years she and her husband (real estate developer Brad Korzen) and their two teenage sons have lived here.

But over the course of two years, the Los Angeles-based interior designer, known for her fearlessly irreverent juxtapositions (think elements of Hollywood Regency glamour, streamlined midcentury design, layered Tony Duquette collages, David Hicks’ graphic patterns and moody brutalism), entirely reworked the Beverly Hills residence. Gone are the bold vermilion and wisteria pieces documented in her vibrant 2009 volume Hue and the heavy metals of 2012’s Rhapsody.

Floor-to-ceiling white walls now draw the eye to the house’s intricate wood moldings, and Wearstler reveals that the millwork throughout the residence is a single shade.

“It’s not a rule,” she quickly clarifies: “I totally mix whites.” But with all the natural light bouncing off the newly cleared walls, she

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From top: ART LUNA’s manicured landscaping helped jump-start Wearstler’s minimalist reinvention of her family’s 1926 property. One of the Dutch ’80s sculptures that flank the revamped pool house.

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British artist FAYE TOOGOOD’s minimalist Puffball pendant illuminates Wearstler’s Fractured Racetrack dining table and brass Elliott chairs.

LOUIS DUROT’s Spiral chair (left) sits below TOBIA SCARPA’s Foglio sconce.

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“With a more minimal design, each piece truly has its own voice” K E L LY W E A R S T L E R

finds the uniformity calming. “It feels like heaven: grounding and relaxing,” says the South Carolina native.

Over the past 24 years, her eponymous firm has put its mark on private residences (Gwen Stefani and Cameron Diaz are clients) and on hotels in Korzen’s portfolio — from boutique locations (namely the Avalon Beverly Hills and a number of Viceroy properties, which launched Wearstler as the West Coast’s authority on modern glamour) to, more recently, historic buildings in San Francisco and Santa Monica repurposed into Proper Hotels with chef-driven restaurants (with Austin, Texas, opening this winter and Downtown L.A. slated to launch in the new year).

So what prompted her latest pivot? Its origins can be traced to when her landscaper, Art Luna, took to the grounds of her 3.2-acre estate — originally concepted by architect James Dolena — after a pool redesign. The hairstylist turned garden designer, who uses his precise approach to tame foliage for Lisa Eisner and a host of other high-profile clients, brought new order to the property.

“This whole thing started with the pool and Art,” says Wearstler. Once the rectangular white-tiled swimming hole was complete, Luna’s manicured topiaries arrived.

Boxwood globes and oversize platforms filled with the shrub cut to a height of precisely 18 inches added site-specific structure to the garden. “We kept it simple

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A newly installed black marble fireplace takes pride of place in a living room framed by Wearstler’s Tuxedo sofas and filled with vintage pieces spanning multiple decades, from the ’50s to the ’80s. A pair of Dutch designer ROB ECKHARDT’s Dolores chairs sitting opposite the mantel add an angular element to the light-filled space.

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“Kelly and I both have a tendency not to follow the rules”

and low and it ended up being minimalist,” says Luna. “If you’re just conscious of the negative space and allow sky and light to come through, that’s half of design.”

The open spaces between the greenery surrounding the pool and the house’s interior courtyard struck a chord for Wearstler and her older son, Oliver, who was lobbying for a clean break inside too. “He asked for an all-white room,” Wearstler says, “and painting it made the architecture sing. Two years later, the entire house is white.” She still loves the residence’s former maximalist look and the process of gathering art and furniture from years of travel, but both boys’ reworked rooms spurred her to unify the rest of the house with a “more pared-down approach.” Work on interiors for a client’s modern house pushed the new aesthetic even further. “With a more minimal design, each piece truly has its own voice,” she says.

The new austerity heightens Wearstler’s trademark off-kilter style. White walls make a blobby Louis Durot resin mirror in the rotunda, hallway neon light fixtures and a downright quirky Acetone Erosions chair

by Susan for Susan in a powder room all even more striking.

The latter — sculpted from cement and sand — is truly a case study in Wearstler’s enduring aesthetic.

“That powder room is pretty spot-on to how it looked when we bought the house,” she says; she changed only the floor. But the space seemed to cry out for a new spirit, “something unusual to create interesting tension.” Now the seat, which looks as though it could have been recovered from the bottom of the sea (barnacles and all), stands in stark contrast to the rest of the room. “The architecture is refined and classic, this chair is the total opposite,” she says triumphantly.

Through it all, Wearstler continuously revisits her design approach: “Opposites attract and you have to evolve with time.” X

From top: The Cipollino marble-clad powder room.

A pair of GERRIT RIETVELD Utrecht chairs upholstered in Wearstler’s geometric District fabric add a rare splash of color. JOE COLOMBO’s modular Tube chair is paired with a ROSS HANSEN table in a sitting room just off the master bedroom.

Photos excerpted from KELLY WEARSTLER: EVOCATIVE STYLE (Rizzoli New York, $55).

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.128.

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ART LUNA

A combination of 1960s chairs from a Paris flea market and Wearstler’s Sonnet design upholstered in textural goat hair surround a vintage ceramic table lit by ENTLER STUDIO’s plaster chandelier. British designer LEE BROOM devised the space’s deftly-sliced Split mirror.

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The Proper Hotel

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BEHATI PRINSLOO sits in front of a spectacular acacia tree in Namibia’s Abu-Huab riverbed.

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BEHATI PRINSLOO IS ON A MISSION The Namibia-born supermodel recently returned to her TRAVIS SCHNEIDER

home country to raise awareness and experience firsthand the work being done to save the magnificent rhinoceros

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From top: Prinsloo rests at MOUNT ETJO SAFARI LODGE, a sanctuary for orphaned black and white rhino calves.

The crew in the field beyond WILDERNESS SAFARIS’ Desert Rhino Camp, with SAVE THE RHINO TRUST trackers, looking for an elusive black rhino.

Prinsloo with SRT trackers and Conservancy Rhino Rangers.

rowing up, I remember going on safari, going camping — we were always going somewhere.

My life was filled with adventure and, especially, animals. After leaving Africa, I realized rhinos were kind of the stepchild in the world of conservation (playing second fiddle to other animals like elephants and big cats), and right now they’re in a critical place. Two subspecies of rhino have recently gone extinct.

Namibia is the only country in the world that has freeroaming black rhinos remaining, and Save the Rhino Trust (SRT; savetherhinotrust.org) asked if I would be interested in seeing them. So, with a few friends, including photographers Hugh Lippe and Travis Schneider, I went for a whirlwind 10-day trip, starting with a visit to conservationist Annette Oelofse at Mount Etjo Safari Lodge (mount-etjo.com). She’s incredible — she raises orphan rhinos whose moms have been poached, and she puts them back into the wild.

One had her eighth calf while we were there, which is just an awesome story about saving one rhino and ending up with eight babies.

We really studied these white rhinos — they’re much bigger than black rhinos, but it struck me how curious and gentle they are; if you’re still, they’ll come smell you out. These animals who are killed for their horns — which is literally just keratin — still trust humans.

Then we went on to Wilderness Safaris’ Desert Rhino Camp (wilderness-safaris.com), where SRT trackers are based. It was so cool to see how they track a rhino in this hot, arid desert that looks like the moon. They put in

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amazing dedication in difficult conditions every single day — there hasn’t been a poaching in that area for about two years now! It can take all day to track a rhino here, and sometimes you don’t succeed, but we walked a couple hours with trackers to find a black rhino sleeping under literally the only bush for miles. There’s nothing more grounding. I was enamored with the beauty of these massive animals roaming around freely.

We drove a few hours to Wilderness Safaris’ Damaraland Camp, where we were lucky to see desert elephants, which I’d never found while I was growing up! The food and hospitality at these eco camps made me so happy — the staff sang us songs every night. My parents met us at Ongava Game Reserve (ongava.com), outside Etosha National Park (close to where I grew up), where we stayed at Little Ongava and Anderssons.

The reserve has custodianship of black rhinos (originally there were six animals, but now there are 10 generations) relocated from an overpopulated area, but I noticed drought was causing herbivores, especially, to suffer.

Between poaching and global warming, I really saw what humanity is doing to the planet and animals. We all need to make a change.

I want my girls to grow up in a world that has rhinos and elephants and lions in the wild. We have a responsibility to keep them on this planet. This trip was so emotional, I finally found my second calling. Africa feels so untouchable until you go there, then it steals your heart and a part of you will always stay. It really feels like a love affair. •

Clockwise from left: Prinsloo with a girl from the De Riet village community.

A 2-year-old female white rhino at Mount Etjo. The vast plains of northwestern Namibia.

The supermodel seeks shade in the 105-plusdegree desert heat.

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MODEL: TAYLOR JEWELL FOR MARC JACOBS BEAUTY. OLIO E OSSO: BRIAN LINCOLN.

THE GLITTERATI Finding inspiration in the bold, sparkling maquillage looks of Euphoria that took New York Fashion Week by storm Donni Davy’s story-enhancing makeup for HBO’s Euphoria has everyone talking, both on and off the runway, about her use of lightreflecting glitter, color and design. And when one of the hottest makeup artists in the business lets us in on her favorite products, we take note. Here’s what is in Davy’s cosmetics bag.

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CREDITS GO HERE

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BECCA LUSH LIP COLOUR BALM

COLOURPOP GLITTER GEL

TRI AEROGEL HAIRSPRAY

“I’ve used these on every skin tone.

Transparent, but moderately pigmented, they nourish lips with jojoba and chamomile oils.” $22, beccacosmetics.com.

“For an extra pop of glitter, dab a little on the center of your lids, just above your upper lash line, or [line] your entire upper lash line.” $8, colourpop.com.

“Lightly mist this strong, scentless spray directly onto a mascara spoolie brush, then comb eyebrows up and out for a fuller effect.” $10, trihaircare.com.

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Wellness GLOSSIER STRETCH CONCEALER

VAPOUR BEAUTY AURA MULTI STICK

OLIO E OSSO LIP AND CHEEK BALM

“I can’t stand when concealer cakes and looks dry. This product comes in a full range of hues, and its dewy, creamy finish looks just like skin.” $18, glossier.com.

“I like to put this directly on cheeks and blend. Oil-based, but not oily feeling, with a dewy finish, they play well with all foundations.” $36, thedetoxmarket.com.

“These quench dry skin and provide a beautiful glow. The color is very subtle, so choose a darker shade than you think.” $28, olioeosso.com.

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STILA SHIMMER & GLOW LIQUID EYE SHADOW

MAC COSMETICS SHAPE + SHADE BROW TINT

L’ORÉAL PARIS VOLUMINOUS ORIGINAL MASCARA IN BURGUNDY

“Great to use on the entire lid, up into the crease and beyond, or just as a highlighter accent along the lash line.” $24, stilacosmetics.com.

“These function like pens to individually draw in eyebrow hairs, allowing for a natural, airy, filled-in brow.” $22, maccosmetics.com.

“I love using a little something different than black. Give lashes a good curl before applying a couple coats of this deep burgundy.” $9, ulta.com.

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Try small, soul-nourishing exercises that yield life-altering results over time

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R I E S GET GROUNDED Jacqueline Smith-Leonardini and Kasey Crown, founders of WellSoul, believe how we deal with past trauma determines our future success. Their credo: “Becoming the best version of ourselves takes work and daily practice. Healing underlying trauma is our primary objective,” Crown says. WellSoul teaches meditative and energy-healing exercises, such as a two-minute practice in which you sit, eyes closed, and take several cleansing breaths. You’ll visualize your connection to the earth and tap into “the supreme universal energy that surrounds us all,” Crown says. It’s an easy way to create meaningful change in your life in just a few minutes each day. Next workshop held Feb. 21-23, Ojai Valley Inn; wellsoulworkshops.com.

Wellness

WRITING RELIEF “Our digital sponges are so full, and journaling provides a way to wring it all out,” says L.A.’s AllSwell Creative founder Laura Rubin. “Journaling connects us to our internal voice — no judgment, no ‘likes,’” she says. A 2007 study out of UCLA confirms that putting feelings into words produces therapeutic effects. So grab a notebook and get writing. Rubin’s recommendation? “Four by four by four: Journal four minutes a day, four days a week, and aim to stick with it for four weeks straight. Fall off the wagon? Don’t beat yourself up.

Journaling guilt is not necessary. Just open up your notebook and try again.” allswellcreative.com.

ALLSWELL CREATIVE notebook No. 3, $23.

Above: The Indigo pool at OJAI VALLEY INN.

MORNING MANTRAS Los Angeles-based life coach and spiritual consultant Ryan Weiss knows it’s all about intent.

According to him, our first moments each morning “set the tone for the rest of the day” as well as our lives. His fundamental message? “Meditate to recharge. Practice gratitude.

Do the hard stuff first — get it off your list. Serve someone else (take the focus off yourself daily). Forgive — remember, hurt people hurt people.” Most importantly, he believes in developing a daily practice of introspection. “A morning meditation and an early evening bath are my favorites,” he says. wakingupwithryan.com.

After more than three decades in the business, Laura Dern’s career has reached a fever pitch. The Big Little Lies star will next appear in Noah Baumbach’s Marriage Story on Netflix, and in Greta Gerwig’s Little Women, to be released Christmas Day. Additionally, after sending a letter to Hillary Peterson, the founder and CEO of True Botanicals, Dern joined her favorite clean beauty line’s “band of activists.” After a long day on set, she likes to unwind with aromatherapy oils in the tub, where she meditates, reads or chats with her daughter about her day.

“I love organic lavender, grapefruit, bergamot, rose, rosemary and eucalyptus — I ... love to play and see what I need in the moment,” she shares. Dern is also a multihyphenate activist. “In a day, I’m looking at the next election, protecting voter registration rights, working with the NRDC, Oceana and the Surfrider [Foundation] ... and working with Everytown about gun safety. And that’s in a day!

I think it’s easy for people to feel guilty when there’s a lot to do,” she says, emphasizing the importance of taking time for yourself. “[Self-care] helps focus your energy toward making things better — it’s important to remember that.”

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OJAI VALLEY INN: MYLES MCGUINNESS.

LAURA DERN

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SHOPPING GUIDE ON OUR COVER Margaret Qualley wears Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Harem chain mesh dress, $8,200, cowboy hat with feathers, $895, and square cuff bracelet, $495, Saint Laurent, Beverly Hills, 310-271-5051; ysl.com. Irene Neuwirth diamond pavé triple circle drop earrings, $14,820, and one-of-a-kind tourmaline ring with diamonds, $5,300, Irene Neuwirth, West Hollywood, 323-285-2000; ireneneuwirth.com.

Christian Louboutin Marie Jane Bucket PVC bucket bag with multicolor flower embroidery, $2,890, Christian Louboutin, Brentwood, 424-354-4199; christianlouboutin.com. Jimmy Choo Lyja 100 black stretch satin booties with crystal necklace detail, $2,450; jimmychoo.com. Moschino Couture jewel belt in silver and pink, price upon request; moschino.com. Alexander McQueen crystal embroidered Beetle box clutch, $4,790, Alexander McQueen, Beverly Hills, 323-7824983. Versace crystal cat-eye sunglasses, $1,615, Versace, Beverly Hills, 310-205-3921; versace.com.

FORMAL AFFAIR

TABLE OF CONTENTS p.28 Margaret Qualley wears Dior dress, $11,000, Dior, Beverly Hills, 310-859-4700. Brixton Piper fedora in Heather Wine, $68; villagehatshop.com. Irene Neuwirth Kingman turquoise crescent hoops, $4,380, Irene Neuwirth, West Hollywood, 323-285-2000; ireneneuwirth.com. Moschino Couture PVC heels with crystal pendants, price upon request; moschino.com.

PREP SCHOOL p.52 Prada knit vest, $2,410, white dress, $2,680, and striped socks, $170, Prada, Beverly Hills, 310-278-8661; prada.com. Gucci blue velvet GG backpack with black leather trim and metal double G detail, $1,980, Gucci, Beverly Hills, 310-278-3451; gucci.com. Roger Vivier Top of the Viv silver leather pumps with embellished pearl buckles, $1,395, Roger Vivier, Costa Mesa, 714435-0015; rogervivier.com. MM6 Maison Margiela green checkered trench coat, $1,545, beige oversized vest, $535, purple oversized polo shirt, $395, green checkered Bermuda shorts, $660, silver brass necklace, $450, and white Paper and PVC square-toed heels, $660; maisonmargiela.com/us. Thom Browne striped dress, $1,450, striped Varsity jacket, $2,500, and white booties, $1,190; thombrowne.com. Chan Luu silver signet ring, $105; chanluu.com. Frame Les Second mini bag in Lipstick and Field Green, $350 (each); framestore.com. Chanel striped sweater, $2,300, striped cardigan, $4,900, white top, $2,100, denim handbag, $5,500, and short boots, $1,700, Chanel, Beverly Hills, 310-278-5500. Michael Kors Collection crimson and black argyle cashmere cardigan with stud embroidery, $1,570, black and crimson stripe poplin shirt, $790, Banker mélange tropical wool skirt, $990, and black grommeted leather oversized waist belt, $490, Michael Kors, 310-777-8862. Dr. Martens Ramsey Monk Tartan creepers, $170; drmartens.com/us/en/. Miu Miu black dress, $3,270, and sweater, $1,100, Miu Miu, Costa Mesa, 714-617-6927; miumiu.com. Jennifer Fisher 2-inch thread hoop earrings, $150, and tube ring, $195; jenniferfisher.com. Dr. Martens Sidney platform creepers, $170; drmartens.com/us/en.

p.60 Sacai embroidered lace jumpsuit, $2,250; sacai.jp. Chanel jumpsuit in cotton toile, $3,200, Chanel, Beverly Hills, 310-278-5500. Giorgio Armani cummerbund, $425; armani.com. Giuseppe Zanotti Hanna heeled mules with silk bows, $750; giuseppezanotti.com. Oscar De La Renta Ivory blouse with asymmetrical front embroidery, $2,190, and Ivory high-waisted straight-leg pants with chain detail, $1,790; oscardelarenta.com. Stella McCartney jacket in tuxedo tailoring, $1,730, and trousers in tuxedo tailoring, $675, similar styles available, Stella McCartney, West Hollywood, 310-273-7051. Giorgio Armani pure silk tie, $225; armani.com. Max Mara double-breasted tuxedo coat, $1,990, and wide-leg trousers, $745, Max Mara, Beverly Hills, 310-3859343. Splendid Cass crop T-shirt, $48; splendid.com.

Jimmy Choo Love/JC Latte Kid pointed pumps, $795, similar styles available, Jimmy Choo, Beverly Hills, 310-860-9045; jimmychoo.com. Adam Lippes oversized tunic with bib, $1,190, similar styles available; adamlippes.com. Jimmy Choo Cloud black velvet clutch with dark green crown jewels, $3,995, and Love 100 black velvet pointed pumps with crystal necklace details, $1,395, Jimmy Choo, Beverly Hills, 310-860-9045; jimmychoo.com.

bag in Oil Blue, $1,990; givenchy.com. Smythson two-pack playing cards, $70; mrporter.com. Salvatore Ferragamo light gold and black aviator frame sunglasses, $440, Salvatore Ferragamo, Costa Mesa, 714-979-7654; ferragamo.com. Loro Piana Laax Active Walk Technowool boots, $1,895; loropiana. com. Kate Spade Nicola bicolor metallic chain bag, $248; katespade.com. House of Morrison ceramic glaze egg vase, $30; houseofmorrison.com.

RETRO ACTIVE p.72 Fernando Jorge Signal earrings with diamonds, wood, tagua seed and mother-of-pearl, $13,570; fernandojorge.co.uk. Lapima Vera Oliva sunglasses, $469, Gogosha Optique, L.A., 323-660-1122; gogosha. com. Brunello Cucinelli racket duffle bag, $4,195, Brunello Cucinelli, Beverly Hills, 310-724-8118.

Saint Laurent Rive Droite City lighter, $14, Saint Laurent Rive Droite, Beverly Hills, 310-271-4110; yslrivedroite.com. Vince leather shirt, $695, Vince, L.A., 323-782-1007; vince.com. Paul Smith Angelpoise type 75 mini desk lamp, $215; paulsmith. com. T.W. Hollister & Co. Oso de Oro dry vermouth, $37; twhollister.co. Red Valentino polka dot Bon Bon glitter slide heels, $525, Red Valentino, S.F., 415-5434900. Loewe Puzzle plain card holder in khaki green and Ochre, $265; saksfifthavenue.com. Celine Haute Parfumerie Eau de Californie, $320, Celine, Beverly Hills, 310-888-0120; celine.com. Skeem Design fireplace match cloche in violet, $48; skeemshop. com. Sophie Monet x Nanushka Columbo earrings, $210, Studio C, Newport Beach, 949-705-3130; shopstudio-c.com. Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H9i Bluetooth headphones with active noise cancellation in pine, $500; bloomingdales.com. Fendi pink scalloped Peekaboo handbag, $6,200; fendi.com.

Fashion In LA, edited by Tania Fares and Krista Smith (Phaidon, $80); phaidon.com. Prada sneakers, $650, Prada, San Diego, 619-294-6710. Feals 2,400 mg extra-strength CBD oil, $245; feals.com. Olivia Von Halle luxury Scorpio star sign embellished silk eye mask, $200; oliviavonhalle.com.

Shopping Guide

ROLLING STONES p.56 Roger Vivier Brioche black leather bracelet with crystals, $495, Roger Vivier, Costa Mesa, 714-435-0015.

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MOODY BLUES p.70 Leica TL2 silver anodized camera, $2,195; leicacamerausa.com. Hermès Slim d’Hermès watch with blue alligator strap, $7,650, Hermès, Beverly Hills, 310-278-6440; hermes.com. Baxter of California silver razor, $65; mrporter.com. Tamara Mellon Cinch knee-high boots in Pavone, $795; tamaramellon.com. Levi’s Trucker jacket, $90; levi.com. Vram one-of-a-kind Chrona chandelier earrings with blue sapphires and diamonds, price upon request; vramjewelry.com. Rebecca Taylor vegan leather skirt in Wave, $375; rebeccataylor. com. Burberry silver heels, $790; us.burberry.com.

Monastery Flora botanical cream serum, $118; monasterymade.com. True Botanicals Moisture Lock lip balm, $28; truebotanicals.com. Juniper Books Influential Women Authors set, (Everyman’s Library, $200); juniperbooks.com. Coach 1941 chain platform Chelsea booties, $450; coach.com. Rimowa blue Original Cabin Twist luggage, $1,280; rimowa.com.

Givenchy Women’s Leather Goods medium ID shiny

ANIMAL INSTINCTS p.74 Maje Balance necklace, $85, Maje, Beverly Hills, 310-271-2428; us.maje.com. Balenciaga yellow and black metal sunglasses, $380, Balenciaga, Beverly Hills, 310-854-0557; balenciaga.com/us. Christian Louboutin Elisa small handbag with leopard-print chain detailing, $2,290; christianlouboutin.com.

Buly 1803 tortoiseshell acetate pocket comb, $44; mrporter.com. Louis Vuitton mink sleep mask, $1,010, Louis Vuitton, Beverly Hills, 310-8590457; us.louisvuitton.com. RH Sirene Pendant lighting structure, $1,346, RH, S.F., 415-865-0407; restorationhardware.com. Lisa Eisner California nameplate necklace, $4,550, Studio C, Newport Beach, 949-705-3130; shopstudio-c.com. Victoria Beckham Beauty Lid Lustre crystal-infused eye shadow in Mink, $36; victoriabeckhambeauty.com.

MAGAZ I N EC.COM

Nickey Kehoe Puebco brass card case, $50, Nickey Kehoe, L.A., 323-954-9300. Mikoh surfboard in Safari, from $850; shop.mikoh.com. Aesop Marrakech Intense eau de toilette, $95; aesop.com/us. Tom Ford leopard silk boxers, $295, Tom Ford, Beverly Hills, 310-270-9440; tomford.com. Pro-ject Essential III turntable in black, $390; sonos.com. Greats Royale leopard sneakers, $189; greats.com. Arman Sarkisyan gold and silver ball earrings with diamonds, $10,300, OK, L.A., 353-653-3501. Nick Fouquet Lynx felt hat in Leopard, $1,275, Nick Fouquet, Venice, 310-3102315; nickfouquet.com. The Common Knowledge Marrakech bag in brown embossed croc, $395; thecommonknowledge.us. Kristie Streicher Essentials eyebrow grooming kit, $225, Studio C, Newport Beach, 949-705-3130; shopstudio-c.com.

Le Monde Beryl kitten-heel mules in Leopard, $585; lemondeberyl.com.

NAUTICAL OR NICE p.76 Gray Whale gin, $43; reservebar.com. Max Mara alpaca teddy bear belt bag, $630, Max Mara, Beverly Hills, 310-385-9343. Jacques Marie Mage Fitzgerald Clear 2 sunglasses, $610; jacquesmariemage.com.

Oscar De La Renta red Carnelian octagon link earrings, $290, Oscar De La Renta, L.A., 323-6530200. Roger Vivier red lacquered wood clogs with embellished strass buckle, $1,200, Roger Vivier, Costa Mesa, 714-435-0015; rogervivier.com.

Longchamp 3D color-block backpack in blue, $985; us.longchamp.com. Sandro sweater with contrasting stripes in white and blue, $295, Sandro, Beverly Hills, 310-281-0083; us.sandro-paris.com. Certain Standard Large Hackney umbrella in Poppy, $95; certainstandard.com. Eddie Bauer travel power bank in blue, $40; eddiebauer.com. Moncler dark blue scarf, $440; moncler.com. Turquoise Coast,

by Nevbahar Koç, Irem Kinay and Oliver Pilcher (Assouline, $85); assouline.com. Myriam Schaefer flag bag, $5,350; myriamschaefer.com. Sergio Rossi sr1 turquoise patent pumps, $750; sergiorossi.com.

Chanel gem bracelet, $1,750, Chanel, Beverly Hills, 310-278-5500. Tory Burch color-block cashmere cardigan, $398, Tory Burch, Beverly Hills, 310-2742394. William & Son leather backgammon set, $3,565; mrporter.com. Heretic Parfum Blood Cedar perfume, 50 mL, $165; hereticparfum.com. Kosas wet lip oil gloss in Jaws, $27; kosas.com. Parachute scented candle in Salt Water, $49; parachutehome.com.

Beverly Hills, 310-860-9045; jimmychoo.com. Krug 2006 Champagne, $285, The Wine House, L.A., 310-479-3731; winehouse.com. Balenciaga black brass Crush bracelet, $680, Balenciaga, Beverly Hills, 310-854-0557; balenciaga.com/us. The Impossible Collection of Cigars, by Aaron Sigmond (Assouline, $995); assouline.com. Tiffany & Co. A Masterful diamond necklace of over 42 carats, price upon request, Tiffany & Co., Beverly Hills, 310-273-8880; tiffany.com. La Perla silk Maison robe, $1,226, La Perla, Costa Mesa, 714-754-7500. T3 Micro volumizing Luxe hot rollers, $119; t3micro.com. Dior Rouge Dior Happy 2020 #999 lipstick, $38; dior.com.

Stuart Weitzman Lisbeth 80 Chile mini printed croc boots, $875; stuartweitzman.com. Erdem crystalembellished silk bow belt, $695; net-a-porter.com.

Tod’s black velvet double T loafers, $845; tods.com.

Miu Miu red velvet bag, $1,420, Miu Miu, Beverly Hills, 714-617-6927; miumiu.com. Marshall Tufton speakers, $399; marshallheadphones.com. Azlee dangle rare cut earrings, $9,600; azleejewelry.com.

Lein double-breasted gown, $2,350; leinstudio.com.

Le Labo aftershave balm, $35; lelabofragrances.com.

Hermès calfskin leather gloves in deep red, $960, Hermès, S.F., 415-391-7200.

com. p.90 Chanel plaid top, $2,100, and plaid skirt, $5,150, Chanel, Beverly Hills, 310-278-5500. Irene Neuwirth one-of-a-kind earrings with bicolor tourmaline and diamonds, $7,790, Irene Neuwirth, West Hollywood, 323-285-2000; ireneneuwirth. com. p.92 Missoni fringe halter dress, $2,865, and multicolor fringe earrings, $475; missoni.com. p.94 Balmain long sleeveless fringe embroidered dress, $7,060; balmain.com. Marco Bicego Africa Boule earrings in malachite, $1,280, and Africa Boule ring in malachite, $1,130, Shreve & Co., S.F., 415-4212600. p.95 Missoni fringe halter dress, $2,865, and multicolor fringe earrings, $475; missoni.com.

CALIFORNIA DREAMING p.98 Slouching Towards Los Angeles: Living and Writing

by Joan Didion’s Light (Rare Bird Books, $27).

RAW TALENT p.83 Gucci azure-multicolor spaghetti-strap top with Mickey Mouse print detail, $550, and Mimosa flower silk Georgette long tiered skirt with sequin and crystal embroideries, $9,800, Gucci, Beverly Hills, 310-278-3451; gucci.com. Irene Neuwirth one-of-a-kind earrings with boulder opals and diamonds, $11,180, Irene Neuwirth, West Hollywood, 323-285-2000; ireneneuwirth.com. p.84 Versace suede western coat, $9,925, Versace, Beverly Hills, 310-205-3921; versace.com. Gucci black-multicolor vest with sequin-embroidered floral details, $2,200, Gucci, Beverly Hills, 310-278-3451; gucci.com. Adina Reyter large pavé diamond stripe hoop earrings, $2,498; adinareyter.com. Irene Neuwirth chrysoprase and emerald ring, $1,760, Irene Neuwirth, West Hollywood, 323-285-2000; ireneneuwirth.com. Miron Crosby Lorene boots, $1,295; mironcrosby.com. p.85 Bottega Veneta dress in stretch plonge, $5,190, and BV Lido sandals in nappa, $1,270; bottegaveneta. com. Marco Bicego Jaipur color ring with citrine, $560; Shreve & Co., S.F., 415-421-2600. p.87 Valentino multicolor sequin gown, $29,000, Valentino, Beverly Hills, 310-247-0103; valentino.com. p.88 Miu Miu sweater and skirt, prices upon request, Miu Miu, Costa Mesa, 714-617-6927. The Last Line diamond Teddy flower ring with diamonds and yellow sapphire, $1,695; thisisthelast.com. Irene Neuwirth fine aquamarine ring, $1,280, Irene Neuwirth, West Hollywood, 323-285-2000; ireneneuwirth.com. Miron Crosby Meredith Coral boots, $895; mironcrosby.

Shopping Guide

CULT CLASSICS p.78 Cartier Baignoire watch, small model, with diamonds, $30,800, Cartier, Beverly Hills, 310275-4272; cartier.com. Jimmy Choo Odette black embroidered swan lace wraparound pointed pumps with feathers and crystals, $2,995, Jimmy Choo,

PERSONAL SPACE p.112 Kelly Wearstler: Evocative Style (Rizzoli New York, $55).

C Magazine is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 Seventh St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone: 310-393-3800. Fax: 310-393-3899. Email (editorial): edit@magazinec.com. Subscriptions: Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year; orders outside U.S. and Canada, add $49 postage; rest of the world, add $69. Single copies and subscriptions: shop.magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 1339, Santa Monica, CA 90406.

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MY

C A L I F O R N I A

I

Favorite store? JF Chen.

It’s a designer’s dream.

This store takes me on a journey every time.

And if Joel [Chen] is there, you get stories about the pieces.

S C O V

Favorite museum? The Getty Center — the location, the surroundings, the art, the building, the history, the stories.

E R

Favorite California vineyard? St. Helena’s Orin Swift.

I E

Where do you take visiting friends? To the Hollywood Bowl for outdoor concerts.

It’s magical.

S

BRIGETTE ROMANEK The in-demand interior designer behind our California concept store, Studio C, shares her Golden State musts Where do you live? Laurel Canyon. I love the history, the vibe, the community.

Where did you grow up?

Culver City, Studio City, Palos Verdes and Hollywood.

130

My CA

feels like another time and place. Thacher House is so serene. The owner makes you fresh foods picked from his garden for breakfast and lunch.

Favorite restaurant? Sushi Park. I order the chef’s choice every time.

Favorite hotel? Chateau Marmont — the bungalows.

It’s relaxed, cool, fun and has a homey vibe.

And you always run into friends there and have an impromptu drink or meal.

What’s your daily uniform?

Right now, all I care about are dresses. A good dress can make me feel feminine and strong, and that sets the tone.

What do you wear in the evening? Rodarte, Rosetta Getty, Gucci and Jenni Kayne. An eclectic mix — just like my interiors.

Favorite beauty products?

Dr. Barbara Sturm, Chanel Beauty, Moon Juice’s Beauty Shroom, Shiva Rose and oils from Whole Foods.

Favorite candle? Terre Noire by Mad et Len. It’s divine, with a warm, heavy scent.

Favorite beach? Carmel Beach — and that 17-Mile Drive. I’ve been going since I was a kid. It never gets old.

Favorite bar? The Wolves in Downtown L.A. It’s beautiful, with an Old World feel, but fresh at the same time. It’s a great place to unwind.

Favorite spa? Olympic Spa in Koreatown for a good old-fashioned scrub down.

Favorite getaway? Ojai.

It’s 90 minutes away and

Favorite drink? Vodka martini with a lemon twist.

Favorite drive? Any road that leads me home. •

Which car do you drive?

A Tesla Model S. MARK ROMANEK

D

Santa’s coming.

So is your family. .com/Delivery Delivery available in California and Nevada.

MedMen

Beverly Hills | Las Vegas | Chicago | Miami | New York For a full list of locations near you, visit MedMen.com Keep out of reach of children. For use only by adults 21 years of age and older.

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