C California Style & Culture

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ANNIVE

September 2020

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ELLE NG I N N FA ia

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Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent

Prada

Prada

Cartier

Cartier

Miu Miu

Miu Miu

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Fendi

Fendi

Bulgari

Bulgari

MaxMara

MaxMara

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Valentino

Valentino

Ben Bridge

Ben Bridge

Four Seasons Lanai

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A S U PE R I O R R EA L ESTATE E XPE RIE N C E

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Compass is a licensed real estate broker (01991628) in the State of California and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdraw without notice.

McKown Weinstein

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REX MCKOWN 949.689.5018 rex@mwaluxury.com DRE 01275953

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10 reasons to love California right now.............................................................................................................................. 37 Layer it on with the ’40s-era pieces making a romantic revival..................................................................... 52 The Webster, Little Dom’s and Lucky’s expand their footprints in The Golden State................................. 56

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A Tom Ford alum trades stitches for stems with the groundbreaking Flowerbx.............................. 62

FEATURES How Elle Fanning’s dark new comedy forecasts the brightest of futures............................................................................................... 68 Paul Jasmin’s sultry photography creates art out of L.A.’s drifters................................................................................................................. 78

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Where better to discover the dramatic fall collections than the dry lakes of the Mojave?..................................................... 86 Reese Cooper’s utilitarian designs are putting California firmly on the fashion map............................................................... 102

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DISCOVERIES Refitted and road trip-ready, these hotels are closer than you think....................................................................... 109 Carolyn Murphy, C’s first cover girl, shares her California musts................................................................................ 114

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VICTORIA BRITO: BEAU GREALY. ELLE FANNING: GIA COPPOLA. REESE COOPER: LEE MORGAN. PAUL JASMIN: DIRK KIKSTRA. MODEL: MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION. LITTLE DOM’S: BLAKE BRONSTAD PHOTOGRAPHY. SAN LUIS CREEK LODGE: JONNY VALIANT. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.113.

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This season’s gloves may be the chicest way to go hands-free....................................................................... 58

Gucci

D I G ITA L

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FASHION NEWS The latest homegrown brands and international runway reports

TOC ELLE FANNING’S HOLLYWOOD HEROES

DECOR & DESIGN A look inside the most stylish homes and hotels, and the creatives behind them

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ELLE FANNING: GIA COPPOLA. FASHION NEWS: CHRISTIAN HÖGSTEDT AND ERIN WALSH. DECOR AND DESIGN: CHAD MELLON. PROFILES: STEVEN LIPPMAN/TRUNK ARCHIVE. SERVICES: STEPHANIE SCHUSTER.

Cover star Elle Fanning on Sofia Coppola, Nicole Kidman and the Hollywood women who inspire her

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JENNIFER SMITH

Founder, Editorial Director & CEO JENNY MURRAY

Editor & President Chief Content Officer ANDREW BARKER

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Chief Creative Officer JAMES TIMMINS

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ALISON EDMOND

Digital Content + Copy Editor

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LISA LEWIS

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GINA TOLLESON

JAKE HEDDAEUS

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GABE DOYNEL

CHARLOTTE BRYANT

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Deputy Managing Editor ANUSH J. BENLIYAN

Contributing Editors Elizabeth Khuri Chandler, Kendall Conrad, Danielle DiMeglio, Rebecca Russell, Diane Dorrans Saeks, Andrea Stanford, Stephanie Steinman Contributing Writers Catherine Bigelow, Christina Binkley, Samantha Brooks, Caroline Cagney, Kerstin Czarra, Peter Davis, Helena de Bertodano, David Hockman, Marshall Heyman, Christine Lennon, Nandita Khanna, Martha McCully, Stephanie Rafanelli, Jessica Ritz, Elizabeth Varnell, S. Irene Virbila, Chris Wallace Contributing Photographers Guy Aroch, David Cameron, Mark Griffin Champion, Gia Coppola, Victor Demarchelier, Amanda Demme, Michelangelo Di Battista, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Adrian Gaut, Beau Grealy, Zoey Grossman, Kerry Hallihan, Pamela Hanson, Rainer Hosch, Kurt Iswarienko, Mona Kuhn, Kurt Markus, Blair Getz Mezibov, Lee Morgan, Ben Morris, Bella Newman, Carter Smith, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jan Welters

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F O U N D E R’S

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ifteen years ago, this magazine was created, and that it is still here today despite all the trials and tribulations of the past decade and a half — from the 2008 financial crisis to fires, mudslides and a pandemic — says a lot about our commitment to the California dream. The idea of C was birthed out of the notion that our lifestyle is pretty close to perfect, and the creative citizens behind its style, culture, design, food and wine, deserve to be celebrated on every page.

We wouldn’t still be here if it weren’t for the amazing people who create every issue and every behind-thescenes video, social media post and event (when we could orchestrate those!), and, more recently, our endeavors with Studio C — and I wouldn’t have enjoyed the ride as much without such a talented team. The same can be said for our advertisers, who have supported us from the beginning. And just as important, our readers.

When some of the most worldly and sophisticated people I know say they still consider C Magazine their “bible of all things California,” it makes me smile.

Mission accomplished.

Take this issue as a case in point: Our cover subject is the charming Elle Fanning. Elle has had one of the more successful careers transitioning from a child actor to a respected artist in her own right. Starring in many a movie, she has now turned executive producer with her new Hulu series The Great, and has always been a darling of the fashion world. A California girl to look up to, for sure. The same can be said for the photographer who shot Elle for our cover: Gia Coppola, Hollywood royalty and already a much-lauded director (and past C cover girl) captured Elle in her full sartorial splendor from our Golden State point of view.

Speaking of resplendence, the fashion portfolio set in the dry lakes of the Mojave Desert embodies our state of mind perfectly — untamed natural beauty, raw in its most basic form but still radiating in its perfection.

The portfolio, styled by executive creative and fashion director Alison Edmond and shot by C contributor Beau Grealy, highlights the best of the season’s new

collections through our unique California lens.

The world is taking notice of our singular vantage point. Homegrown fashion talents have taken the spotlight in recent years (Rodarte, Brock Collection, Rosetta Getty and Amiri as examples), and in this issue, we look to the next generation: CFDA emerging designer nominee Reese Cooper. Our studio visit with Reese takes you to Glassell Park in L.A., where he first launched his label. And don’t miss a look inside the home of legendary photographer Paul Jasmin. With a retrospective in the works, the legendary lensman spoke to us about all things pictures and parties.

Since 2005, our stories have highlighted the dreamers, makers and creators who call these shores home. Because the real beauty of living here, in this mystical land of deserts, mountains, valleys and sparkling seashores, is the feeling that you are being gifted a veritable garden of Eden to enjoy, nurture and protect. For most people, it is a dream world, but for us, it is home.

Founders Note JENNIFER SMITH

Founder, Editorial Director and CEO

ON THE COVER

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ELLE G FAGiNaNIN by Coppola

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ELLE FANNING. Photography by GIA COPPOLA. Creative & Fashion Direction by ALISON EDMOND. Hair by JENDA ALCORN using L’Oréal Paris. Makeup by ERIN AYANIAN MONROE at Cloutier Remix using L’Oréal Paris. Manicure by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty using Dior Vernis.

FANNING wears CHANEL, ZOË CHICCO and ERINESS.

@ccaliforniastyle 32

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ILLUSTRATION: DAVID DOWNTON. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.113.

September 2020

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P E O P L E

GIA COPPOLA

BEAU GREALY

Photographer and filmmaker Gia Coppola has long been a contributor and muse of C, and even our May 2014 issue’s cover star. Most recently, Coppola photographed Elle Fanning for “Bright Future,” p.68, capturing the charm and style of the charismatic star.

MY C SPOTS • Right now I’m into finding local Los Angeles restaurants that need support and pop-ups for takeout, like the mobile La Morra Pizzeria • Moyosubi for rice balls • Found Oyster Overboard for seafood

Australian lensman Beau Grealy photographed this issue’s fall fashion feature, “Desert Storm,” p.86, in the Mojave Desert. In addition to contributing to magazines such as i-D and Vogue, the L.A. transplant has worked on brand campaigns for Adidas, Zimmermann, Esprit and others. MY C SPOTS • Mitsuwa Marketplace for a Japanese curry • Topanga’s Red Rock Canyon Park for a hike • Little Big Man Gallery in L.A. for art inspiration

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VICTORIA BRITO

DEREK CHARM

Beyond braving the heat for this issue’s fashion feature, “Desert Storm,” p.86, Brazilian-born model Victoria Brito has been photographed by Bruce Weber for W Magazine and appeared in campaigns for H&M, Steve Madden and Calvin Klein CK2. MY C SPOTS • Sanctuary Fitness in L.A. for when you want someone to kick your ass in the best way possible • I love staying at the NoMad Hotel whenever I’m in L.A. • The rooftop view at Soho Warehouse in DTLA is so amazing

Derek Charm, who illustrated “10 Reasons to Love California Right Now,” p.37, is an Eisner Award-winning comic artist and illustrator who has worked on projects for Marvel, DreamWorks Animation and Marc Jacobs.

MY C SPOTS • China Beach, a quiet little pocket beach in S.F. • Stuart Ng Books in Torrance for everything from European comics and art books to hard-to-find self-printed zines • Farmer and the Cook vegetarian market and cafe hybrid in Ojai

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DEREK CHARM: LEANDREW TABB.

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all, like spring, is a time of renewal: The change in seasons offers a new beginning, a blank slate on which to define ourselves and our world afresh. As nature undergoes its own metamorphosis, so, too, are we offered another chance at change. Hope springs in September, and nowhere more so than in this land of eternal optimism.

California, as we have come to know and love it, is perhaps less a place than a positive state of mind, forever forward-looking, striving for the new and improved. The seeds of the future are so often sown in our soils. And if there has been any loss of faith during these unprecedented and challenging times, there are still reasons to be hopeful. This fall, California is sprouting with the green shoots of change in the spheres of design, culture, sports, travel, diversity and conservation, bolstering our belief in ourselves again. Whether through nimble adaptations to our new present, preservations of our heritage, or radical technological breakthroughs that usher in the future, the innovative spirit of California is strong, always attempting to leave its positive imprint on the world — and now even the solar system — always reaching for a new and better age.

Statement Opener

Words by STEPHANIE RAFANELLI Illustrations by DEREK CHARM

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Life on Mars Starts in California The state has a new set of rock stars. They might be anonymous on the street, but the implications of their innovative efforts for the human race are the most profound and far-reaching to date — about 33.9 million miles far to be exact. This year, the first phase of NASA’s Moon to Mars initiative took flight. On July 30, the Perseverance rover embarked on a mission to Mars’ Jezero Crater, once an ancient lake, to collect biosignatures, fossilized signs of former microbial life. It carries with it the carbon-light Ingenuity helicopter, a pathfinder that will scout Mars’ surface for future human routes. The mission will take more than a little piece of California with it: Both robots, along with their predecessor, Curiosity, were built at NASA’s pioneering Jet Propulsion Laboratory in Pasadena.

In March, NASA also announced that it is tapping four California-based companies for its Artemis project, which will send the next man and the first woman to the moon by 2024; and will aim to have sustainable missions at the lunar south pole by 2028. Elon Musk’s Hawthorne-based SpaceX will resupply the agency’s Gateway in lunar orbit via cargo vessel Dragon XL and develop Human Landing Systems. Palo Alto’s Ceres Robotics and Mojave-based Masten Space Systems are also key collaborators. Artemis’ human team includes: Stanford and UCLA-educated Jessica Watkins, a postdoctoral fellow of the California Institute of Technology and chief NASA geologist; L.A.-born military pilot and flight surgeon Dr. Francisco Rubio; and native Angeleno Dr. Jonny Kim, a Navy Lieutenant at NASA who attended University of San Diego and later, Harvard Medical School.

After years of lunar living, the Artemis team will be assigned to the first manned — or more likely, “woman-ed” — mission to Mars before 2030.

10 Reasons

Our Wine Regions Are Expanding Wine harvest season is open in the Napa and Sonoma valleys. It’s reassuring to witness nature’s continuing bounty: Grapes fattened like buddhas on vines, the cleansing essence of white sage and chaparral wafting over the tobacco-scented terroir.

September is ripe for a staycation here, where gourmet tourism has proved to be as fecund and resilient as the soil. But this classic grape-to-glass idyll also has the thrill of the new as California’s wine regions continue to attract big luxury brands. Joining the golden triangle of Auberge properties is the forthcoming Stanly Ranch, followed by a new Four Seasons Resorts and Residence Napa Valley, which opens in Calistoga later this year. The latter, set amid 23 acres on a world-class cabernet sauvignon vineyard, boasts an in-house winery overseen by award-winning local vintner Thomas Rivers Brown. It’s a place to cocoon with a bottle fireside: The Truss restaurant, tasting rooms and 85 rustic, farmhouse-style rooms are encircled by the protective shoulders of the Palisades mountains. Later this fall, the Montage Healdsburg will join the Sonoma set with a 258-acre retreat and spa. Meanwhile, Santa Barbara’s Santa Ynez Valley is fast becoming L.A.’s very own Napa. The Auberge Resorts Collection is taking over clapboard institution The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern, a gold rush pitstop reincarnated as a Prohibition-era speakeasy, set to debut in 2021. As the chic Auberge Los Olivos, it will provide an authentic pastoral base for living out Wild West and Sideways fantasies (the 2004 movie was shot here) at local ranches and vineyards, with tannin-soaked tales to be told around the fire pit at night.

10 Reasons

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Our Condors Are Coming Home The Californian wilderness is tentatively creeping back, and with it, near-extinct animals integral to Native American culture that once filled the western skies and roamed open plains. According to the California Department of Fish and Wildlife, gray wolves, viewed as mythological spirits by most indigenous cultures, were almost entirely eradicated here in the 1920s. But, this past June, the Lassen Pack, identified in 2017 as the only known pack in our state, was spotted with a litter of eight pups, making the family now 14 strong. Meanwhile, California condors, endangered since 1967 — considered by some Native Americans to be great ancestors with shamanic power — are returning to their native nesting habitat in Sequoia National Park.

Six were spotted this spring at Moro Rock and the Giant Forest. The population of the largest flying birds in North America, which soar like ancient, winged priests over carrion, had dropped to 27 in 1987 due to lead poisoning from feasting on the remains of hunted animals. After captive breeding programs at the L.A. Zoo and San Diego Wild Animal Park, some were released back into the Los Padres National Forest in 1992. But for almost 50 years, they had yet to make it back home to the treetop safety of the towering Sequoias. Primordial nature is returning to its roots, reminding us of the respect our dignified predecessors once had for these lands.

10 Reasons

Interlude Home

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Clockwise from far left: KENNETH NICHOLSON Spring/ Summer 2020, 11 HONORÉ’s new private label, HARRIS REED Spring/Summer 2020 and designer MATTHEW WILLIAMS.

California Is Changing the Face of Fashion MATTHEW WILLIAMS Givenchy turns to West Coast skateboard culture with the appointment of Pismo Beach-raised Matthew Williams as its new creative director, injecting a jolt of Californian futurism into the Parisian house. The choice of the 34-year-old founder of 1017 ALYX 9SM promises more than a mere revival of Riccardo Tisci’s gothic streetwear (the Italian left in 2017).

Williams is a self-taught maverick who has designed for iconoclasts such as Lady Gaga and Kanye West (that robotic LEDthreaded jacket at the 2008 Grammys) and regularly collaborated with Dior Men’s Kim Jones, and Virgil Abloh as part of the Been Trill collective. Expect no dogma and thrilling cross-fertilizations within the LVMH stable.

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10 Reasons HARRIS REED

With alabaster skin and the long, titian locks of Rapunzel, 24-year-old avant-garde fashion designer Harris Reed doesn’t look typically Californian. But growing up in an artsy L.A. household nourished their theatrical imagination, fluid identity and West Coast commitment to positive change. While still studying at London’s Central St. Martins, Reed’s flamboyant yet gender-neutral creations — think Glam Rock meets Victoriana via Little Bo-Peep with 1-meter-wide brim hats — caught the attention of actor Ezra Miller, a dandified Harry Styles and Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, for whom Reed has since designed and modeled. Having just graduated, Reed ushers in a wilder, freer sartorial age.

KENNETH NICHOLSON Positive messages abound from L.A.-based designer Kenneth Nicholson, nominated this year for CFDA’s Emerging Designer of the Year Award, whose flowing silhouettes with military details are dramatically sweeping aside the straightjacket of masculinity. (He joined the U.S. Navy after graduating from San Francisco’s Academy of Art University.)

As Nicholson told Vogue in February, for him, fashion is “the ultimate version of

performance art,” mapped out with precise references to history and “struggle,” not the least of which is his self-confessed “difficult” upbringing in Houston. His Fall 2020 collection was fashioned from the point of view of his grandmother’s couch. Lil Nas X and Moonlight star Ashton Sanders are among his ambassadors. His frock coats are destined to be the uniform of the new-era renaissance man.

PATRICK HERNING In 2017, women all over America whooped for joy when ex-Silicon Valley executive Patrick Herning launched 11 Honoré, the L.A.-based luxury e-tailer stocking pieces from designers including Prabal Gurung, Christopher Kane and Marc Jacobs for the first time to women sizes 12 through 24 (which represents nearly 70 percent of our female population). Here at last was an upmarket business presenting at fashion week that celebrated body diversity.

This past July, there were more collective cheers, coinciding with the second drop of 11 Honoré’s own capsule collection: sleek loungewear arriving during lockdown equaled manna from heaven. With a third drop imminent, 11 Honoré’s arrival is as proud and as inclusive as a Lizzo anthem.

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The Getty Is the Global Guardian of Modernism Modernism is sacred in California, less a design ethos, more a founding philosophy. It’s no surprise then, given our equal conversationalist bent, that a campaign to save the world’s forgotten 20th-century buildings has come from our shores. Established in 2014, the Getty Institute’s Keeping It Modern fund continues in this, its final year, with a $2.2 million grant to rescue 13 global feats of experimental modernism and rebel engineering from dereliction or demolition.

Among this year’s grant winners is the Soviet-era futurist Buzludzha Monument (illustrated here), a cement flying saucer with a mosaic interior perched on a Bulgarian mountaintop in imminent danger of collapse. Others include: Kuwait City’s Abraj Al-Kuwait water towers (resembling three jousts piercing watery planets of blue mosaics), designed in 1976 by Malene Bjørn with a glass- and aluminumenclosed observation deck designed by American “space-itect” Buckminster Fuller; the CICES fairground, a shining, pyramidical example of post-Colonial African modernism in Dakar, Senegal; the 1966 Charles Correa-designed cricket stadium in India’s Ahmedabad; and seaside swimming pools designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Álvaro Siza in Portugal’s Leça da Palmeira. Hopefully, with the Getty Institute’s help, these weird and wonderful structures will be preserved for modernists’ bucket lists for decades to come.

10 Reasons

S T A T E M E N T S

10 Reasons

The Drive-In Revolution Speeds Up

The extermination by Tinder et al. of romance — the kind experienced by our grandparents, at least — has long been the main gripe of singletons. That was until this past spring, when they instead lamented the impracticalities of social-distanced dating and the forlorn months of solo Netflix-watching when movie theaters closed. But out of today’s lemons we make lemonade. And out of the kernels of our present we make … popcorn! This summer, a surge of pop-up drive-in theaters — the Baby Boomers’ preferred method of dating — across the state has provided a retro solution to social distancing and a joyful outlet for film nostalgists. The par exemplar?

Grease, which was screened recently at San Fernando Valley Summer Drive-In. Torrance’s Roadium returned to its original purpose: a drive-in, originally opened in 1948. Monterey and Alameda County Fairgrounds diversified into in-car movie theaters. The closed, indie Cameo Cinema in Napa’s St. Helena reopened, partnering with Gott’s Roadside burger joint.

Even Amazon jumped on the bandwagon, sponsoring a film series celebrating diverse voices at Vineland Drive-In Theater, curated

by Michael B. Jordan’s production company, Outlier Society. With programming continuing through fall, the drive-in is restoring oldfashioned romance to our viewing habits.

Versace

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10 Reasons It’s All Change

at San Francisco Opera When Icelandic composer Hildur Guðnadóttir won Best Original Score for Joker at the Oscars — only the fourth female ever to do so — women in classical music hoped it signaled a sea change. Now that hope has been consolidated by the appointment of 39-year-old South Korean conducting sensation Eun Sun Kim as music director at the San Francisco Opera — the first woman to ever hold the post. Kim is something of a Wonder Woman in the classical universe.

She has scored global breakthrough after breakthrough since being awarded the First Prize in the International Jesús López Cobos Opera Conducting Competition at the Teatro Real in Madrid in 2008. The New York Times called her “a major star” after her American debut with Verdi’s La Traviata at the Houston Grand Opera in September 2017. In July, she led the famed Concert de Paris under the Eiffel Tower, a triumphant and rallying return to national life illuminated by fireworks. This is just the shape of things to come for California, when Kim begins her directorship next year.

10 Reasons Finally ... Our Own Women’s Soccer Team Californian women’s soccer has found its patron saints in newly established entity Angel City.

The 33-strong ownership group of majority female power players from the worlds of sport, tech, finance and Hollywood are to debut an L.A.-based team. The diverse and formidable management includes Serena Williams, Natalie Portman, Jessica Chastain, Jennifer Garner, Uzo Aduba, Eva Longoria, America Ferrera, L.A. venture capitalist Kara Nortman, previous World Cup winners Mia Hamm and Abby Wambach, and 12 former national team players.

Williams’ husband, Reddit co-founder Alexis Ohanian, and their 2-year-old daughter, Olympia, are also listed as investors, with media consultant Julie Uhrman acting as founder and president. The team’s official name will be announced later in the year, but the goal is to be ready to compete in the National Women’s Soccer League’s 2022 season. Equality will be high on the agenda: Portman and Nortman met at a fundraiser and reconnected after the World Cup as the U.S. team fought for pay equal to their professional male counterparts.

(Female players can earn as little as $20,000 a year.) Diversity will also be prioritized: Angel City will partner with LA84 Foundation, part of the #playequity movement, in support of programs for young athletes, particularly those of color. With an all-female hierarchy, the team is likely to be a game changer in more than just soccer.

S T A T E M E N T S

10 Reasons Our Tech Gurus Are Saving the Planet After purchasing David Geffen’s Beverly Hills compound, Jeff Bezos is now one of our own — for better or for worse, some might say. But in February, even haters had cause to reconsider the controversial figure when the Amazon founder pledged $10 billion to combat climate change. The Bezos Earth Fund will work in partnership with climate activists, scientists and NGOs whose most urgent mission is the South American basin under escalating threat of deforestation from the

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Brazilian Bolsonaro presidency. Snappily put, it’s Amazon for the Amazon — home to about 10 percent of the planet’s known plant and animal species. There are skeptics, of course: In July, Bezos earned $18 billion from the stock market in a single day, and he has been under pressure from Amazon Employees for Climate Justice, who have condemned his support of the fossil fuel industries. However, according to The Guardian, his is the third biggest philanthropic donation this century. It also makes California one of the largest financial epicenters in the private sector’s contribution to saving the world’s rainforests, which are still one of the most efficient carbon-removal systems on the planet. Last year, HewlettPackard committed $11 million over the next five years to combat deforestation in Brazil and China, partly to offset its own paper production. And Apple ring-fenced 27,000

acres of mangrove forest in Colombia for protection — mangroves can absorb and store up to 10 times more carbon than other forests.

Surprisingly, the planet’s most innovative tech firms are backing primarily natural-based climate solutions. This follows the model of private land protection set out by adventurer Douglas Tompkins and his wife, Kris, former CEO of Patagonia, when they purchased more than 2 million acres in Chile and Argentina, helping to establish 14 national parks.

Restoring forests, wetland or terrestrial, combating deforestation and supporting sustainable indigenous practices could cut 7 billion tons of carbon emissions annually, The Nature Conservancy has suggested. According to a more recent study, a decade’s worth of human emissions could be absorbed by the planting of 1.2 billion trillion trees. California, it’s not too late to turn back the clock.

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We Are the Home of Clean Beauty This summer, the California Assembly passed groundbreaking legislation regulating the use of harmful chemicals in cosmetic products.

The Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act, A.B. 2762, bans 12 toxic ingredients commonly used in beauty products, making California the first state in the nation to move toward enforcing clean beauty regulations. It’s no surprise, as The Golden State was instrumental in the birth of the clean beauty movement, largely thanks to Santa Monica’s Beautycounter (2013), which has continually pushed Congress to pass more laws protecting consumers from toxic ingredients, and San Francisco-based Credo Beauty (2015), which, in the absence of a written standard, created its own definition to address ingredient and product quality, as well as ethical and sustainable sourcing. For savvy consumers seeking even more transparency, Northern California-based Codex Beauty, which launched its first product last spring, is on the cutting edge of ingredient innovation (its food-grade preservation system is microbiomefriendly), clinical trials and sustainability. This is just the beginning. As clean beauty reverberates across the country, changing the personal products landscape, leave it to California to lead the way.

Kelly Atterton

10 Reasons

COZYCHI C COMFO RT

Barefoot Dreams

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RETRO ROMANCE

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Clockwise from top left: DOLCE & GABBANA jacket, $5,345, skirt, $6,745, boots, $3,695, and bag, $2,695, VRAM earrings, $3,200, and socks, stylist’s own. FENDI sweater, $1,690, and skirt, $5,900, IRENE NEUWIRTH earrings, $3,150, and CH CAROLINA HERRERA clutch, $465. VINCE dress, $445, and sweater, $365, JIMMY CHOO shoes, $695, IRENE NEUWIRTH earrings, $3,150, CH CAROLINA HERRERA bag, $1,755, and socks, stylist’s own. BURBERRY jacket, $3,050, shirt, $1,450, skirt, $1,990, and belt, $660, and IRENE NEUWIRTH earrings, $9,750.

Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Styling by ALISON EDMOND 52

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MODEL: LEXI BHARDWAJ AT FREEDOM MODELS. HAIR AND MAKEUP: DEE DALY AT OPUS BEAUTY USING ORIBE AND CHANEL LES BEIGES. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.113.

1940s elegance holds its own in 2020

Flexform SF

www.flexform.it

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JIMMY CHOO silver metallic block-heel mules with crystal drape, $995.

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SHINE BRIGHT Put your best foot forward in Jimmy Choo’s diamante mules

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.113.

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Photography by BEAU GREALY Styling by ALISON EDMOND 54

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Š2020 Ojai Valley Inn

Ojai Valley Inn

An authentic California moment has never been more desirable than at Ojai Valley Inn. Come experience the crisp autumn air, wide open spaces, and the harmony of being together. This is the place where precious memories are made, connections are renewed and where life itself is restored.

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844.486.6552 OjaiValleyInn.com

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RETAIL THERAPY, RIVIERA STYLE

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Born in Miami in 2009 — and with an 11,000-square-foot space opening in the Beverly Center this year — chic multibrand boutique The Webster has chosen Montecito’s Rosewood Miramar Beach hotel for its eighth location. Setting up shop in the old Manor House, opposite the entrance’s grand staircase, the prime-positioned store stocks a mix of the finest European fashion houses, including Jacquemus, Celine, Loewe and Bottega Veneta, alongside U.S. brands Rosie Assoulin and Proenza Schouler. 1759 S. Jameson Ln., Montecito, 305-6747899; thewebster.us.

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THE WEBSTER’s first permanent resort outpost at ROSEWOOD MIRAMAR BEACH.

As the basis for his decorating style, Mark D. Sikes distilled the classic homes of his Southern and Midwest upbringing down to their quintessence, then drew heavily on the tastes of the legendary figures whose style he admired, such as designers Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass, and style icons Jackie Kennedy and Marella Agnelli. More Beautiful: All-American Decoration, his second book, looks at the homes he has designed across the U.S., both coastal and country, including a whole section on the designer’s own Hollywood Hills residence. A veritable coffee-table tome, it also takes a leaf out of the scrapbook with annotations and quotations to inspire the readers to up the glamour of their interior game.

From top: Craft cocktails served alongside fresh oysters, grilled artichoke and margherita pizza at LITTLE DOM’S SEAFOOD. The new Carpinteria storefront.

More Beautiful (Rizzoli New York, $45)

by MARK D. SIKES.

BIG SOFTIES Comfort rules as you step out in style

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UGG

Cloud slippers, $130.

Fluff Yeah slides, $100.

ROGER VIVIER

VINCE

Hotel Vivier slippers, $1,595.

Loni slippers, $150.

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WORDS BY ANDREW BARKER. MARK SIKES: AMY NEUNSINGER. LITTLE DOM’S: BLAKE BRONSTAD PHOTOGRAPHY. THE JAMES HOLLYWOOD: JONNY VALIANT. LUCKY’S MALIBU: ALEXANDRA DEFURIO.

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A NEW CLASSIC

STAYCATION MODE

RAVIOLI ALLA RINCON

Extended-stay hotels were around before the pandemic, as evidenced by Villa Carlotta opening on Franklin Avenue two years ago. It is now joined by The James of Hollywood, a 1920s Mediterranean Revival-style building with 9-foot-tall ceilings and spaces kitted out by Nil Erbil of StyleMood Design (Montauk’s The Surf Lodge, New York’s members-only clubhouse Habitas) and L.A.based creative director Brian McGrory. Together, they installed extra-large closets, leather headboards and velvet sofas. Amenities take the form of Peloton bikes, Marshall speakers and Byredo products and robes that will make it very hard to leave this home away from home in Hollywood’s historic heart. Rates upon request. 1830 N. Cherokee Ave., L.A., 213-460-5751; thejameshollywood.com.

For its second SoCal outpost, Little Dom’s chose the sleepy, surf town of Carpinteria. But who opens a restaurant in the middle of a pandemic? Lucky for chef Brandon Boudet and restaurateur Warner Ebbink, the sister outpost of their Los Feliz favorite boasts a breezy outdoor dining patio only blocks from the beach. The menu is heavy on locally sourced seafood, with new arrivals such as a cast iron-seared fish sandwich, Santa Barbara live uni and market fresh crudo appearing alongside mouthwatering modern Italian mainstays of the original, like chicken parm and cacio e pepe.

686 Linden Ave., Carpinteria, 805-749-7400; ldseafood.com.

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The library designed by NIL ERBIL and BRIAN McGRORY at THE JAMES OF HOLLYWOOD.

The signature Mr. Lucky cocktail — Hornitos Blanco Tequila, St. Germain and fresh-squeezed lime juice — at LUCKY’S.

LUCKY ’BU! Twenty years after it opened, storied Montecito locale Lucky’s Steakhouse opens a second home at the Malibu Country Mart this September. Its surf and turf menu of shrimp cocktail and filet mignon, and daily changing plats du jour, will be a hit with the oceanside community, adding to Malibu’s short roster of higher-end dining options. 3835 Cross Creek Rd., Ste. 18, Malibu, 310-317-0099; luckysmalibu.com.

BELT UP It’s a cinch with brass and buckles HERMÈS

GIORGIO ARMANI

GIVENCHY

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belt, $495, and buckle, $290.

belt, $1,795.

belt, $395.

belt, $840.

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GLOVE LOVE Show of hands: Who wants to try the accessory of the season?

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Clockwise from top left: BALMAIN bustier and pants, prices upon request, and AMATO gloves, similar styles available. CHANEL bustier, price upon request, pants, $3,450, and gloves, $1,400.

RODARTE dress, gloves and earrings, similar styles available. GUCCI dress, $5,980, leather corset, $1,980, and gloves, $430.

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Handcrafted Cooking Ranges & Suites, Steel Cabinetry, Fine Wood Working & Appliances NEW YORK • MIAMI • LOS ANGELES • PARIS www.LeAtelierParis.com • 1 800 792 3550

L’Atelier

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CODE RED Scarlet, ladies, is the color of fall’s best bags

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.113.

Clockwise from top left: BOTTEGA VENETA clutch, $1,980.

ALEXANDER McQUEEN bag, $2,890. MIU MIU bag, $1,950. VALENTINO GARAVANI bag, $2,995.

Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Styling by JAKE HEDDAEUS 60

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Fashion Island

NEIMAN MARCUS BLOOMINGDALE’S NORDSTROM MACY ’S AG ALICE + OLIVIA ANTHROPOLOGIE & CO. APPLE CHANEL FR AGR ANCE AND BE AUTÉ DRYBAR FIG & OLIVE FLEMING’S PRIME STE AKHOUSE & WINE BAR G A RYS H Y DE PA R K JE W ELERS LILLY PU LI T ZER T H E LOT LOU IS V U I T TON N ESPR ES SO PELOTON R EB EC CA TAY LOR RED O MEXICAN CUISINE RESTORATION HARDWARE ROLEX ST. JOHN SUITSUPPLY TESLA MOTORS TOMMY BAHAMA HOME T R A V I S M AT H E W T R U E F O O D K I T C H E N V I N C E V O L U S PA W A R B Y PA R K E R Z A D I G & V O LTA I R E P A R T I A L L I S T FASHIONISLAND.COM

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FROM THE FRONT ROW TO THE FLOWER SHOP

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Tom Ford’s former right hand reinvents the florist model with her eyes on the West Coast

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hitney Bromberg Hawkings has Tom Ford to thank for her fondest-ever floral delivery. “Every year on my birthday, he’d send me 100 long-stemmed tuberose,” she recalls. In 2016, after working for the designer for 18 years, most recently as his SVP of communications, Hawkings stepped out on her own to run Flowerbx, a direct-to-consumer delivery business that cuts out the middleman by working directly with growers to offer simple, single varietal arrangements.

In true startup fashion, Hawkings operated Flowerbx out of a small warehouse in Park Royal, London, not far from the South Kensington home she currently shares with her husband, Peter (Ford’s long-serving senior VP of menswear), and their three children. Since then, the company has taken up much more real estate on the same industrial property and has expanded internationally to cities like Paris, Amsterdam and New York. This September, a West Coast hub opens in Los Angeles so it can deliver seasonal varietals like hydrangeas and peonies in brown paper or vases (onyx, stone, ceramic, glass, brushed metal) up and down the coast within 48 hours.

Given Hawkings’ black book, it’s no surprise brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dior and Tory Burch are clients.

The Beckhams rely on Flowerbx’s subscription services to fill their home and the VB studio with a dash of flora. Ford, too, an early customer, gives Flowerbx subscriptions as gifts. His go-to order? A sea of dahlias, peonies, hydrangeas or ranunculus, depending on the season. “Always white, no greenery and never mixed,” she says.

Ford is known for his assiduous attention to detail.

Hawkings operates Flowerbx with a similar eye for consistency and quality after spending years on the job putting out fires caused by unreliable florists. “I was on the receiving end of one too many bad surprises,” she says of what led her to start the company.

When it comes to floral design at home, Hawkings still relies on a guiding principle from her years in fashion: “Keep it tonal,” she says. Her go-to gift is hydrangeas for their wow factor, or dahlias when they’re in season; even mums, although not her favorite flower, look sharp next to long-stemmed roses. “There are a million ways for a mixed bouquet to go wrong,” she says. “But with single bloom, we’re making it nearly impossible.” flowerbx.com. •

Clockwise: WHITNEY BROMBERG HAWKINGS HAWKINGS. The FLOWERBX founder’s pro tips. A 10-stem skyblue hydrangea bouquet, $135, and large apothecary vase, $60. The Flowerbx range includes scented home sprays and candles.

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Remove foliage be all the water.

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When in doubt, ke

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WHITNEY BROMBERG HAWKINGS: ALEX BRAMALL.

Flowerbx

THE ALCOVE

TERESSA FOGLIA

MARINE LAYER

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MASH IT UP Vinyl with velvet? Track with tulle?

Anything goes in a 1980s revival

Clockwise from top left: PRADA coat, $3,700, dress, $2,480, collar, price upon request, bra top, $555, leggings, $495, shoes, price upon request, and bracelet, $975. VERA WANG tulle top, $4,200, and shorts, $950, KATE SPADE NEW YORK faux jacket, price upon request, JIMMY CHOO pumps, $950, and earrings, stylist’s own. SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO blazer, $3,590, dress, $6,190, and pumps, $895, OSCAR DE LA RENTA earrings, $420, and gloves, stylist’s own.

LOUIS VUITTON jacket, price upon request, top, $1,280, skirt, price upon request, boots, $1,630, and necklace, price upon request.

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MODEL: JAE UNGER AT PHOTOGENICS. HAIR AND MAKEUP: DEE DALY AT OPUS BEAUTY USING ORIBE AND CHANEL LES BEIGES. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.113.

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P H OTO : E T HER & S MI T H

Malibu Beach Inn

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FALL FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEAU GREALY. CREATIVE & FASHION DIRECTION BY ALISON EDMOND. MODEL: VICTORIA BRITO AT MUSE, NEW YORK. HAIR AND MAKEUP: JO STRETTELL AT TRACEY MATTINGLY AGENCY USING @SMASHBOXCOSMETICS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.113.

TOM FORD kaftan, $6,450, sweatpants, $1,450, socks, $280, sandals, $1,390, and earrings, $890. ÉLGÉ bracelets, from $5,500.

Feature Opener ELLE FANNING’S RISE AND RISE TO GREATNESS PHOTOGRAPHER PAUL JASMIN ON 50 YEARS CREATING ART OUT OF SUBCULTURES THE MOJAVE DESERT PLAYS HOST TO THE SEASON’S NEW COLLECTIONS REESE COOPER IS PUTTING L.A. FIRMLY ON THE FASHION MAP September 2020 67

BRIGHT FUTURE

Elle

Elle Fanning’s

darkly comic portrayal of a young Catherine the Great could be the role that defines her. With a second season in the works and a burgeoning career as a producer, things are heating up for fashion’s favorite polymath Words by MARSHALL HEYMAN Photography by GIA COPPOLA Creative & Fashion Direction by ALISON EDMOND 68

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Elle

GIVENCHY gown, $3,690.

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FENDI blouse, $2,100. OLIVER PEOPLES sunglasses, $393.

Opposite: MAX MARA gown, $1,190. BIRKENSTOCK slides, $130. KENDALL CONRAD ear cuff, $60.

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ince she started working in the movie business a whopping 20 years ago, Elle Fanning, who turned 22 earlier this year, has collaborated with some of Hollywood’s most exciting directors. Among them: David Fincher for 2008’s The Curious Case of Benjamin Button; Sofia Coppola for 2010’s Somewhere and 2017’s The Beguiled; J.J. Abrams for 2011’s Super 8; Mike Mills for 2016’s 20th Century Women; and Alejandro González Iñárritu for 2006’s Babel.

But Fanning’s first major role in television may wind up being her career-defining moment. In The Great, she stars as Catherine the Great, Russia’s longest-ruling female leader, opposite Nicholas Hoult as the dastardly Peter III. Alongside Normal People, the series became one of Hulu’s biggest streaming successes during the pandemic, and the platform says it will commission a second season.

As viewers gleefully discovered, this is not your average, run-of-the-mill Catherine the Great — nor anything at all like the

Elle

one portrayed last year by Helen Mirren in HBO’s limited series. No, this is Tony McNamara’s Catherine the Great. You might know McNamara because he co-wrote 2018’s The Favourite, which won Olivia Colman an Oscar. The Great is very much in the mold of that film, meaning it’s hilarious and absurd, offering a side of Fanning we haven’t gotten to see much during the last two decades.

“I’m not a dramatic actress, but I tend to do more drama,” Fanning explains over a bowl of Italian wedding soup at Little Dom’s in Los Feliz, just as COVID-19 begins to turn Los Angeles upside down. (She was actually scheduled to go to Budapest a few days after this interview to co-star opposite her sister, Dakota, for the first time on screen in The Nightingale, a World War II drama that has since been put on hold.)

McNamara wanted Fanning specifically for The Great. “I just found it bonkers and incredible. It was so special,” she says, describing her thoughts after reading the script for the first time. “Tony’s writing is so against sappy or cliche. He’s very dry. We’ll have this romantic scene and snot will be

coming out of Catherine’s nose. It’s with a bit of a wink.”

Fanning thinks the show is actually a good match for her personality. “There’s a very dark side to me that is irreverent and weird, that really likes to go there and push people’s buttons, that kind of likes to toe the line of what’s questionable,” she explains. “Making it felt cathartic, because it felt like I finally got to show that side.”

Indeed, critics have tended to agree. The New York Times called her performance “terrific.” Salon said: “[Fanning’s] performance is everything a viewer wants from an empress in ascent: confident, sharp, funny and luminous.” Rolling Stone wrote that she “nails every beat of it, and is never less than intensely watchable. It’s a hell of a calling card as she gets deeper into the adult phase of her acting career.”

Fanning plays opposite the equally lauded Hoult, who is almost a decade her senior, though they’ve played spouses before, in Jake Paltrow’s Young Ones, when she was 14. “It was supposed to be a child bride situation,” she recalls.

VALENTINO dress, $2,890.

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As Peter in The Great, Fanning says, “Nick does such horrible, evil things, and you can’t help but wonder, ‘Am I supposed to like you?’

Catherine is the audience in that she doesn’t know, really. She hates his guts, but it’s kind of endearing. She’s a beautiful character, because she’s very curious, and she always has a second plan and a third and fourth and fifth plan. She makes mistakes, and she’s a great manipulator.”

When asked if she spent time researching the historical figure for the role, Fanning laughs. “Not so much,” she says. “When I got the part, I was thinking, ‘I’m going to have to do all this reading and blow dust off these giant books.’ But Tony has sprinkled in historical aspects. Just hearing about [Catherine] overthrowing [Peter], you can tell what type of lady she is. And she also apparently invented the roller coaster.”

Besides exhibiting incomparably empathetic acting skills, Fanning has also proven to be an arbiter of very good taste, especially when it comes to cinema. (The Neon Demon was especially divisive, though at one point, Fanning thought it was the

Elle “There is a dark side to me that is irreverent and weird” E L L E FA N N I N G

best movie she’d ever made. “I love it,” she says.) In 2016, she skipped her senior prom at Campbell Hall in the Valley for the picture’s premiere at Cannes Film Festival. Just three years later, she returned to Cannes as part of the festival’s jury panel, making her the youngest member in history. “I learned a lot,” she says. “Young people watch movies too.”

That said, her favorite sequel is Pixar’s Monsters University, and she binged the trashy reality series Love Is Blind on Netflix, but who didn’t?

Fanning grew up in a particularly athletic family that didn’t go to the movies much, so she credits her refined palate to many of the filmmakers and actors she’s worked with over the years. “A movie set is such an intimate experience,” she says. “You’re sharing emotions you might not share with the closest family members. I’ve learned a lot from them. You feel that energy. That’s why they are who they are, and make the movies they do.”

Fanning and Coppola have tea on occasion; she and Mills have an annual dinner at Café Stella in Silver Lake. While reflecting on filmmakers she’s worked with in the past, the

PACO RABANNE dress, $4,800. KENDALL CONRAD ear cuff, $60.

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GUCCI shirt, $3,500, skirt, $3,900, and bracelet, $980. ERINESS ear cuff, $575.

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Makeup: L’ORÉAL PARIS Revitalift Triple Power Day Lotion SPF 30 sunscreen, $25, Magic by Studio Secrets Skin Beautifier BB cream in Fair, $11, Summer Belle Makeup Blush Please! in Blushin’ in Riviera, $10, Infallible 24 HR eye shadow in Perpetual Purple and Eternal Sunshine, $8 each, Voluminous Lash Paradise mascara, $11, and Summer Belle Makeup Glowing lip gloss in Tropic Like It’s Hot, $10.

Associate Fashion Editor MARGRIT JACOBSEN. Hair by JENDA ALCORN using L’Oréal Paris. Makeup by ERIN AYANIAN MONROE at Cloutier Remix using L’Oréal Paris. Manicure by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty using Dior Vernis.

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Makeup: L’ORÉAL PARIS Revitalift Triple Power Day Lotion SPF 30 sunscreen, $25, Magic by Studio Secrets Skin Beautifier BB cream in Fair, $11, Summer Belle Makeup Blush Please! in Blushin’ in Riviera, $10, Infallible 24 HR eye shadow in Perpetual Purple and Eternal Sunshine, $8 each, Voluminous Lash Paradise mascara, $11, and Summer Belle Makeup Glowing lip gloss in Tropic Like It’s Hot, $10. Hair by JENDA ALCORN using L’Oréal Paris. Makeup by ERIN AYANIAN-MONROE at Cloutier Remix using L’Oréal Paris. Manicure by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty using Dior Vernis.

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.113.

Elle actor says, “They treat me like I mattered, or they cared about my opinion. The person I am today is because of those people. They really kept my imagination alive and cared about my weird ideas. These people don’t have to care, but it means a lot.”

In addition to her interest in great filmmakers (whenever Hollywood starts production again, she’d like to work with the Safdie brothers, Josh and Benny; and The Favourite director Yorgos Lanthimos), Fanning has also become known for her sense of style.

Though today she’s wearing a soft vintage T-shirt and “mom” jeans, she insists, “I’m not usually the T-shirt and jeans type of girl. But I have a Gucci sweater that I can wear over it and Chanel loafers, so that’s OK.” Her love of fashion was apparent even at a young age. When I interviewed 6-year-old Fanning for one of her first movies, 2004’s The Door in the Floor, she said she wanted to be a fashion designer. That didn’t quite happen, she recognizes, but a love of clothes has always been part of her life. “When I was young, I was allowed to be eccentric. My

mom would let me put on crazy outfits and go to school,” she recalls. “I think I had an appetite for it more than Dakota did. There are things that I would wear, and she would say, ‘That looks insane.’ Kids definitely made fun of me, but I didn’t care.”

Working with Coppola in 2010 also got her noticed by the fashion industry. “They wondered, ‘Who’s the girl that Sofia picked in that movie?’” Fanning says. She met the Rodarte sisters and wore white sparkly pants they gave her on the local bar mitzvah circuit. “The fashion community really accepted me, whereas the kids in school didn’t always accept me. But I knew these top designers liked what I wore, so I continued to do that. I knew all the references, and I knew all the models, and I would look on Vogue Runway. When I get obsessed with something, I get obsessed.”

She’s worked with the stylist Samantha McMillan since she was 14; earlier this year, they decided she should wear black for the first time.

So they chose an Armani number for the Berlin Film Festival. “I really liked it,” Fanning says. “I usually think, ‘Why wear black when you can

wear a color and stand out?’ But there are a lot of different sides to me. I love being a Grace Kelly on the red carpet, but I also love The Row and want big, oversized suits.”

Lately, Fanning, who still lives with her sister in the Valley, has moved into producing, which certainly gave her a place to channel some energy during the statewide quarantine.

(In April, she celebrated her 22nd birthday with a Strawberry Shortcake-themed cake that featured the cartoon character in a face mask, of course.) She has a producer credit on The Great as well as on the Netflix movie All the Bright Places, and she says producing has been an eye-opening experience for her.

“It’s a process. Your emails are flooded. You’re cc’d on a lot of things,” she explains. “I’m still finding my voice in it, but you learn that nobody has the right answers. You have to try so many things.”

And though she’d like to try her hand behind the camera, she admits: “I can’t think of not acting. Every day, they’re still picking me for jobs, and there are so many things I haven’t done.” •

BOTTEGA VENETA jacket, $1,650, and pants, $1,170. Opposite: PRADA dress, $2,110. ZOË CHICCO ring, $535.

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CALIFORNIA DREAMER Jasmin Paul Jasmin spent the ’70s and ’80s rubbing shoulders with Andy Warhol and Anjelica Huston. But it’s his decades spent photographing L.A.’s drifters and subcultures that have made him a star in his own right

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VALERIA: PAUL JASMIN. PAUL JASMIN SITTING AT DESK: DIRK KIKSTRA.

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Photographer PAUL JASMIN at home in Los Angeles.

Opposite: Valeria, Lancaster, 2008.

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aul Jasmin was watching Mutiny on the Bounty again recently. “I think it could have been my 500th time, because I’m always looking at those damned Turner Classics,” he tells me. Curled under a library table nearby was Jasmin’s cat, Jack. “My steadfast companion in these uncertain times,” says Jasmin, whose friends call him Jazz. The two of them — Jazz and Jack the Cat, living together like Old Hollywood bachelors in their RKO Pictures-era complex on Wilshire Boulevard in Los Angeles — make “a magnificent pair,” according to Jasmin. “I’m OK with Jack’s antisocial behavior, and Jack doesn’t judge my movie infatuations.”

After 50 years photographing galleryworthy dreamscapes around L.A., and a short spell as a successful New York fashion illustrator and Warhol acolyte, Jasmin has every right to Spartacus and chill. Between teaching photography at ArtCenter College of Design in Pasadena (Sofia Coppola was his student) and surfacing with iconic images of his own (he got his start shooting

Jasmin “I’m definitely a bit of a starf**ker.

None of these newer stars ring my gong” PA U L J A S M I N

the stills for American Gigolo), Jasmin built a following as glam as the covers he shot for Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. Anjelica Huston, Richard Gere, Liza Minnelli, Judy Garland — they all turned to Jasmin for gossip and titillation.

I was on my way to see him when the COVID-19 virus first unleashed its insidious barbed droplets upon the people of Southern California. His manager thought a phone call would be safer than a sit-down, given his age (Jasmin is a youthful 85) and his propensity for animated chatter. But he was actually out shopping at Ralph’s when I tried calling. “They said they weren’t delivering, so I went to stock up on crackers and flowers and all those good things,” he tells me. Millions were panicking, but Jasmin sounded quite buoyant. “Being in quarantine in L.A. isn’t particularly unsettling for me, to be honest. It’s not like New York.

You can isolate yourself here and never feel like you’re missing anything. It’s one of the things I love most about this city.”

It helped that Jasmin has a stellar lockdown situation. The Los Altos Apartments where he lives were built in the 1920s as a Mission

Jasmin’s ’20s-era abode, part of the historic Los Altos Apartments.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Tatjana and Mike, Paris, 1995. Clarence, Los Angeles, 2003. Ben and Josh, Ojai, CA, 2000. Whitley Avenue, Los Angeles, CA, 1999.

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HOME OFFICE, WHITLEY AVENUE, TATJANA AND MIKE, CLARENCE AND BEN AND JOSH: PAUL JASMIN.

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CLINT, CHARLOTTE AND OLIVER: PAUL JASMIN.

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Revival-style haven for stars like Clara Bow, Mae West and Douglas Fairbanks. “It was kind of a tryst pad for William Randolph Hearst and Marion Davies, because he was married at the time, and they needed a place to crash,” Jasmin says. He loves that the building is not “phony L.A.” Phony is a word that comes up frequently with him. It’s almost a kind of trigger word that propels him. “I wanted all the pictures I ever took to look like the embracing pictures of Elizabeth Taylor and Montgomery Clift from A Place in the Sun,” he tells me at one point. “To me that was realism.

Theirs were the least phony embraces of all.”

A collection of Jasmin’s most indelible images — raw, raucous and definitely un-phony — will be exhibited this fall on Fahey/Klein Gallery’s website celebrating Jasmin’s 50 years among L.A.’s heartbreaking romantics. (Depending on the pandemic, the gallery is also considering by-appointment visits.) Remarkably, it’s his first solo show in this city. Topless starlets in repose. A Velveetayellow Porsche creeping up an incline off Sunset. Rippled young Adonises who could be cowboys if they weren’t stretched out on stripped Hollywood motel beds. “Lost Angeles” radiates with nostalgia for a city that never really existed and yet is somehow as true to L.A. as a midnight stroll down La Brea.

“Jazz embodies a [time in] Los Angeles when there was still a Schwab’s, when the Chateau was full of grifters and drifters, and prostitutes were everywhere along Sunset Boulevard,” says Lisa Love, the former West Coast editor at Vogue and Jasmin’s friend of more than 30 years. “It’s a romantic notion of a worn and sticky side of L.A. life. It’s not Beverly Hills. It’s the Los Angeles with the lone palm tree bending behind chain-link over a vacant concrete pool.”

Jasmin describes his work to me as “stark reality with just a hint of glamour.” As a painter, an illustrator, a photographer, an arts teacher and a consummate bon vivant (“I’m definitely a little bit of a starfucker,” he admits; he’s on a home-phone basis with Sofia Coppola, Richard Gere and Bruce Weber), Jasmin brings to life a slice of vintage Los Angeles that’s drop-dead magnetic and yet completely unvarnished.

Imagine Gloria Swanson hanging with the

Clint, Charlotte, and Oliver, Big Bear, CA, 1998.

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pool hall hustlers and whores of a Tom Waits ballad.

“I think of all the parties I’ve been to at Jazz’s, and how that remarkable vibe spills over into his photography and reflects his life,” says Weber, who met Jasmin in New York back in the ’70s and first urged Jasmin to pick up a camera. “His circle of interest encompasses an incredible mix of people from every dimension. You’d see babies and people in their late 90s and surfers and young actors and students who adore him and somebody you recognized from a magazine, and Jazz somehow helps everyone feel at ease and at home.”

Photographer Dewey Nicks, another

former student, says, “What makes Paul a great photographer is what makes him a great teacher and an interesting force in general.

It’s this giant embrace of his surroundings. He never stops shooting, never stops engaging, never stops collecting people and ideas.”

Jasmin almost could have turned out ordinary. Born and raised in Helena, Mont. — “a typical small western town with only one movie theater,” as he put it — he lived with his head in big-sky clouds and his mind on glitzier capitals. He saved money by dressing windows at the local department store and decamped to Paris as soon as he could afford the steamer passage. A “Paul Bowlesian adventure across North Africa” followed, then he eventually

made his way to L.A. The glam life suited the dashing flaneur who charmed his way around town. Anthony Perkins liked him so much he got Hitchcock to make him the voice of Norman Bates’ mother in Psycho. Later, during a short stint in New York, Jasmin was a “walker” for Judy Garland. “She didn’t have money in the end,” he explained. “So, she lived out of her MGM wardrobe trunks, and we got very good at playing a high-class version of ‘dine and dash’ at places like The Plaza and The St. Regis.”

As hunker-down spring turned into quar summer, I checked back with Jasmin, who remained nearly unchanged by the most tumultuous times in recent memory. His

Above: Inside Jasmin’s study, which houses his collections of books, magazines and his coveted prints

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HOME OFFICE, MARY, HARMON AND CAMERON: PAUL JASMIN. PORTRAIT OF PAUL JASMIN: DIRK KIKSTRA.

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gallery show is still scheduled to debut; he and Jack the Cat remain a noble match, and he’s gradually weaned himself off cable news and “updates from our nincompoop-in-chief.”

He’s reading a biography of Stalin’s daughter, enjoying un-phony views from his apartment, and spending more time than he should on those Turner Classics.

“What can I say? I have a rich fantasy life,” he says. “Marlon Brando. Jimmy Dean. Kirk Douglas. None of these newer stars exactly ring my gong, you know? I’m perfectly happy with the space and time to reflect on what was. A lot of people are going crazy right now being stuck at home. Not me. I always knew I was fucked up, so I’m kind of enjoying it.” 2 From top: The lensman outside his home in Central L.A. Mary, Hollywood, CA, 1989. Harmon and Cameron, Malibu, 2016.

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DESERT

Fashion’s most powerful looks for fall breeze into the Mojave’s dry lakes

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BOTTEGA VENETA coat, $9,450, dress, $3,980, boots, $1,950, and leather bag, $4,500. JENNIFER FISHER hoops, $295, and ring, $325.

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TOD’S peacoat, $6,145, bag, $1,945. FENDI bra and brief, $390 (sold as pair), socks, $150, and sandals, $1,050. MYKITA + MM6 MAISON MARGIELA sunglasses, $505. DANIELA VILLEGAS ring, $22,000, and earrings, $13,000.

Opposite: MIU MIU jacket, $5,800, and skirt, $1,900. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN boots, $2,995. SYLVIE CORBELIN ring, $5,800. OSCAR DE LA RENTA earrings, $450. Belt, stylist’s own.

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Photography by BEAU GREALY Creative & Fashion Direction by ALISON EDMOND

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GIORGIO ARMANI coat, $7,450, and trousers, price upon request. JIMMY CHOO yellow bag, $1,995, and black bag, $1,995. ROAM slippers, $130. ROXANNE ASSOULIN bracelet, $225. MYKITA + MM6 MAISON MARGIELA sunglasses, $505. Opposite: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO coat, $6,700, and dress, $1,990. STELLA McCARTNEY boots, $975. VRAM earrings, $4,800, and ring, $5,600.

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CHRISTIAN DIOR dress, bra top, panties and socks, prices upon request. JIMMY CHOO boots, $950. IRENE NEUWIRTH earrings, $4,690. ÉLGÉ bracelets, $5,500 each.

Opposite: VERSACE jacket, $1,925, sweater, $1,750, miniskirt, $925, boots, $1,450, and bag, $1,925. JACQUES MARIE MAGE sunglasses, $600. ELIE TOP ring, $8,202.

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MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION pullover, $2,290, scarf, $1,590, and skirt, $2,990. VRAM ring, $4,200. KENDALL CONRAD backpack , $590.

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GIVENCHY coat, $6,120, scarf, $4,820, bag, $2,650, and gloves, $1,250. ROAM slippers, $130. IRENE NEUWIRTH earrings $7,240. Opposite: BALENCIAGA coat, $2,990, and skirt, $995. ELIE TOP earrings, $13,956, ring (right hand) $5,742, and ring (left hand) $8,202. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN boots, $1,295.

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SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO blazer, $3,390, blouse, $1,790, latex pants, $890, gloves, $495, belt, price upon request, earrings, $595. Opposite: MONCLER 8 BY RICHARD QUINN catsuit, $660, and jacket, $3,665. BOTH boots, $580. MYKITA + MM6 MAISON MARGIELA sunglasses, $505.

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Makeup: SMASHBOX Be Legendary lipstick in Mandarin, Panorama Pink and Legendary, $21 each. BEAUTYBLENDER Glass Glow Shinelighter highlighter, $25. CHANEL Les Beiges Soleil Tan bronzing cream, $50. TOM FORD Cream and Powder Eye Color in Naked Bronze, $65.

CHANTECAILLE Philanthropy Cheek Shade blush in Grace, $40. GLOSSIER Boy Brow, $16.

Model VICTORIA BRITO at MUSE MANAGEMENT, NEW YORK. Hair and makeup by JO STRETTELL at TRACEY MATTINGLY AGENCY using @Smashboxcosmetics.

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LONGCHAMP coat, $5,505, belt, $290, boots, $1,220, and bag, $1,035. KENDALL CONRAD ring (pinkie), $320, ring, $360, and hoops, $180. Opposite: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI cardigan, $9,700. KENDALL CONRAD bangles (right wrist), $220 each, bangle (left wrist), $350, ring, $250, and hoops, $180.

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REESE COOPER’S FASHION REVOLUTION The 22-year-old designer’s hyper-relevant collections blend historic workwear with California’s abundant nature, capturing the survivalist spirit of our times

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ne morning, a few weeks into L.A.’s shutdown, Reese Cooper woke up with a very specific impulse. “I need to swim in fresh water today,” he declared to his roommate, Charlie. “How do we make that happen?” This is a common follow-up question of the 22-year-old designer — the youngest to ever receive a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nomination (in 2019) — whose bleach-blond hair is sprayed aloft, as if held up with the static electricity of a sudden idea. The pair set out on an off-the-cuff road trip driving out an hour north of the city. “We found this magical creek. There were no people around.”

And, as is Cooper’s way, he dived in.

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Designer REESE COOPER dons his eponymous label’s shirt, $185, and bandanna, $48, with vintage pants and cap. Opposite: Model Emilia wears the Reese Cooper jacket, $885, shirt, $185, and pants, $625, while model Floyd sports the shirt, $500, and pants, $480, with SEASON THREE boots, $345. Previous spread (p.102): Floyd wears the Reese Cooper varsity jacket, $1,495, shirt, $185, pants, $360, and belt, $50, with Season Three boots, $345; Cooper wears the bandanna, $48, sweatshirt, $375, and pants, $540, with Season Three boots, $345, and a vintage cap; Emilia dons the varsity jacket, $1,020, shirt, $185, and jeans, $595.

(All looks seen throughout.)

“The best ideas are the impulse ones.

You have to execute them while they are still fun in your brain” REESE COOPER

From that mental spark-turned-moment came the Spring/Summer 2021 collection of his reinvented workwear, entitled River Runs Through, and its pro-active tagline — “If you do something, something will happen” — a credo to manifesting. Unable to show on a watery set in a Parisian school as planned in June, Reese improvised, turning a stream in Thousand Oaks into a runway for Fashion Week Online; male and female models waded barefoot along the currents in fishing vests, scout-ish patches, skirts and jackets painted with bucolic scenes and camouflage created by scanning Californian wildflowers collected on hikes. His friends, seated on the bank, constituted the disheveled front row; and Compton-born rapper Vince Staples of Cutthroat Boyz provided free-styled, spoken-word narration to the video presentation, referencing our wavering relationships to nature and positive action. The whole thing couldn’t have been more on brand.

Since Cooper moved at 18 to L.A. from London to found his eponymous label, he has experimented with, elevated and rewilded urban workwear, releasing it back into its natural habitat of the great American outdoors.

Nominated this year for the CFDA’s American Emerging Designer of the Year Award (alongside Californians Kenneth Nicholson and the duo behind Staud), Cooper’s utilitarian designs seem to define the survivalist spirit of our times. Simultaneously, they reach out to a golden age of rural America that perhaps never truly existed, creating more of a psychic landscape. His modern heritage menswear and, now, womenswear collections (he doesn’t like the term “streetwear”) under the titles Lone Pine, Hitchhiking, Big Sky, Wind Chill and If A Tree Falls recall the communion of the lone

Reese

human spirit with the elemental wilderness.

But Cooper’s vision is personal — an ongoing story of himself in a mythological wild America that, as a boy, he left behind when his mother, Leah, a lawyer, moved the family from Atlanta to London’s overwhelming metropolis.

“My grandparents lived on a lake in the middle of Georgia,” he explains. “Then I lived in a very rural part of Colorado for nine months before moving [to London] when I was 11.” At 14, already captivated by the structure of things, Cooper was drawn to menswear on Tumblr, discovering BAPE (with whom he interned at 15), and the kind of streetwear whose genesis can be traced back to vintage Americana. “Once I was 17 or 18, I was curious to know what

life would have been like if I hadn’t gone to live in the inner city,” he says. “So my work is completely an exploration of a parallel self.”

With this in mind, he eschewed fashion school for a nondidactic DIY approach (he dropped out after six weeks), absorbing everything he learned in double-quick time from two embryonic collections — one a hoodie collaboration with Flint Child Health and Development Fund. When he moved to California to harness L.A.’s historic workwear manufacturing, setting up his label in the aforementioned Charlie Giannettis’ Glassell Park textile factory, it was as if Cooper had been born at 18 as a full-fledged designer. He had the long-lensed vision of a film director,

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Above: Looks from the Spring/Summer 2021 collection. Below: Cooper on the makeshift runway of his Thousand Oaks show. Opposite, clockwise from top right: Floyd and Emilia sport aforementioned looks from Cooper’s collection. Boxed samples at the factory in Glassell Park.

The designer marries urban workwear with nature. Cooper wears the puffer jacket, $1,950, shirt, $185, and bandanna, $48, with vintage pants.

Model: Emilia Schmier at Vision Los Angeles. Model: Floyd Zion at Q Management.

Hair and Makeup by Dee Daly at Opus Beauty using Oribe and Glossier.

friends in the same place,” he says. “But I don’t like how seriously everyone takes it, because at the end of the day, all we do is make clothes for wealthier people. Nothing is that deep. … I resonate most with people like Heron [Preston] and Virgil. I’d rather hang out with people that have the same energy, rather than gatekeepers.”

Cooper’s version of fashion is, by contrast, democratic and inclusive. During lockdown, he debuted RCI-DIY, selling DIY pattern kits for chore jackets and ready-to-dye T-shirts to benefit youth charities. “I thought: I’m just going to make a playbook for people and hope they freestyle it from there,” he says. Sustainability was part of his production process from the get-go, using techniques like garment-dying to reduce fabric waste. “I never look at these things as an afterthought. No one has to convince me of this shit. … It’s a question of right or wrong.”

The pandemic, according to Cooper, has brought about a needed reality check for the fashion industry. Meanwhile, unable to travel as before, he’s created a more permanent home

in L.A; he’s moving into a new apartment and office in downtown to nest as the Giannetti factory is relocating nearby. After clearing out, he donated around 200 T-shirts; he doesn’t buy them anymore, he’s only tempted these days by vintage options from L.A. dealer Moth Food.

He’s also getting a car, though in the absence of an electric Ford Bronco, he’s uncharacteristically torn about what he wants.

“I also want a practical pickup truck,” he says.

“But I also don’t want to be the guy that has a pickup truck that people call.” He’s leaving that decision — and others related to his future — to his instincts. “I’m not like: ‘One day I want to design for this or that house.’ That doesn’t really excite me,” he explains. His goals are much less starry, more aptly pragmatic and utilitarian: “What I want next is a full-time production manager, and I need a bookkeeper, that’s where my head’s at right now.” He chuckles again. “I’m so sick of scanning receipts.” Right now, in this age of reality checks, we can all relate to that. X

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delivering his seasons as chapters of an ongoing narrative (“It’s damn near like styling a scene that doesn’t exist,” he says) in addition to a 24/7 work ethic similar to that of his friend Virgil Abloh, and the confidence to follow his instincts on the spin of a dime that only experience or youthful gumption brings.

“The best ideas are always the impulse ones, and you have to be able to execute them while it’s still fun in your brain, otherwise you’re going to lose that momentum,” Cooper says. “I just grew up with my mum believing that this could work if I just went out and faced the whole sink-or-swim moment.” Creatively directing and managing the label solo, with Leah dealing legal emails from London, he was signed up by Barneys New York, Mr Porter and London’s Selfridges.

More recently, for Harrods, he designed the Greyhound capsule collection, featuring jackets emblazoned with camouflage and hunting dogs.

“There’s the illusion that I’m a much bigger company, which was something I worked toward, so that stores would take my brand more seriously, rather than just ‘this kid making stuff,’” Cooper says. “I got an email two days ago with a resume from someone applying for ‘a job in the finance department of the Paris office.’ I don’t even have a finance department, let alone a Paris office!” He’s only taken on an assistant in the last three months.

But Cooper hopes to never be taken too seriously. His experimental approach to the construction of practical clothes in humble, workaday fabrics is at odds with the carved ivory towers of fashion. “Fashion week has been like a summer camp to me. Just all your global

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ROAD TRIP READY Five new and refreshed

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hotels within driving distance of major hubs

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I E Ocean views from the POST RANCH INN’s Pacific Suite private deck in Big Sur.

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fter months of shutdowns, quarantines, and intermittent beach and hiking trail closures, it is natural that we are pining for the great outdoors. And with exotic islands and the enchanting Mediterranean still out of reach, a handful of hotel happenings makes staying close to home that much easier.

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POST RANCH INN, BIG SUR

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145 MILE S FROM SAN FR ANC ISCO

The acclaimed Post Ranch Inn — the 100-acre, 40-room, no pets, no kids, no outside visitors boutique resort that defined California-rustic style ever since it debuted in 1992 — reopened mid-July post-COVID-19 closure with a slew of sustainable cleaning and disinfecting solutions developed by a specialized Danish firm.

Toxic or harmful chemicals with an ammonia or bleach base are shunned in favor of Premium Purity, which exposes surfaces pretreated with CleanCoat to light, using photocatalysis as a disinfectant. The process decomposes microorganisms — including bacteria, molds and viruses — following CDC guidelines. Along with the new cleaning processes, other enhancements include new outdoor dining experiences, an expanded spa menu, outdoor yoga classes, a larger chef’s garden and the introduction of falconry as a guest activity.

Unchanged? The stunning views of the tranquil Pacific from an elevation of 1,200 feet above sea level. From $925/night; postranchinn.com.

Travel

From bottom left: The Post Ranch Inn perched above the Pacific Coast. The interior living space in a HOTEL JUNE guest room designed by Venice-based STUDIO COLLECTIVE.

HOTEL JUNE, LOS ANGELES 3 MIL E S FROM L A X

Instead of thinking of Hotel June as just north of the airport, think of it as just south of Venice, a mere 4-mile bike ride from Abbot Kinney. This 250-room property from Proper Hospitality group opened in summer with coastal-influenced interiors by Venice-based Studio Collective in a midcentury building originally designed

by Welton Becket. All dining on property is overseen

by Steve Livigni of nearby Scopa Italian Roots, and highlights include the two-level, open-air Caravan Swim Club, which acts as a restaurant and bar serving California- and Baja California-influenced fare. Check out the Kumamoto oysters, plant-based cauliflower nachos, and bar program with over 100 agave spirits.

Locals can soon purchase public passes to the pool deck, which plays host to everything from firepit gatherings to creative meetings. From $250/night; thehoteljune.com.

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POST RANCH INN: KODIAK GREENWOOD PHOTOGRAPHY. HOTEL JUNE INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR : THE INGALLS. HOTEL JUNE FOOD: DYLAN + JENI. CAPRI HOTEL: YOSHIHIRO MAKINO.

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Italian ’60s and ’70s meets midcentury.

Travel There’s even a suite with a private hot tub CAPRI HOTEL, OJAI

Clockwise from top left: A full bar at Hotel June in Los Angeles. The terrace views from the Ocean House at Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur. Chilled wine and charcuterie boards served at Hotel June. The pool at Ojai’s CAPRI HOTEL. The bedroom suite at Capri Hotel.

7 7 MIL E S FROM LOS ANGEL E S

Originally built in 1963, this 30-room retro motel has slowly been undergoing a transformation by Shelter Social Club (Ojai Rancho Inn, Alamo Motel, Sama Sama Kitchen) since early 2019. Come this fall, expect the final product to blend the Italian ’60s and ’70s with a Californian midcentury aesthetic. Striking original pastel oil abstracts from artist Mattea Perrotta decorate each room as well as the lobby; handmade custom ceramic wall sconces and desk lamps in each room are courtesy of Queens-based Eny Lee Parker; and bed frames, headboards, side tables and desks are from Dusk Work.

A restaurant and bar are planned in the next phase of the hotel, but you can currently find a shimmering pool and Jacuzzi surrounded by loungers, and rooms with refrigerators and 42-inch flat-screens. There’s even a King Suite with a private hot tub for two. Off property, check out the region’s hot springs, hiking trails and wine tasting rooms. From $199/night; hotelojai.com.

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The chic boutique inn is one part surf shack, one part modern farmhouse

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the laid-back sophistication of the Central Coast town and infused the property with her signature bohemian charm. The result is one part surf shack, one part modern farmhouse, and entirely young and fun. The 25-room property is spread over four buildings and offers three unique room styles, each incorporating tones of blue, green or black that reflect the region’s natural beauty.

From $249/night; sanluiscreeklodge.com.

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WHITE WATER, CAMBRIA 35 MIL E S FROM SAN LUIS OBISP O

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SAN LUIS CREEK LODGE, SAN LUIS OBISPO 95 MILE S FROM SANTA B ARB AR A

SAN LUIS CREEK LODGE: JONNY VALIANT.

Clockwise from top left: Seating in a NINA FREUDENBERGERdesigned room at SAN LUIS CREEK LODGE in San Luis Obispo. Inside a coastal cottage-inspired guest room at WHITE WATER in Cambria. The farmhousestyle exterior of the San Luis Creek Lodge.

A pair of chic boutique inns open this fall from PRG Hospitality (The Prospect Hollywood; Casa Laguna Hotel & Spa; and Sparrows Lodge in Palm Springs), which worked with acclaimed designer Nina Freudenberger of Haus Interior for her first-ever hospitality projects.

For the first, San Luis Creek Lodge, located in the heart of San Luis Obispo, the Los Angeles-based designer took

Located north of San Luis Obispo, Cambria exudes coastal cool, combining the terrain of Big Sur with the style of Santa Barbara, offering wineries, surfing and relaxation. Freudenberger combined two existing inns to create this new 25-room property along Moonstone Beach. The dark facade gives way to whitewashed interiors, where the designer combined elements of ’70s Scandinavia with unconventional accents inherent to the region. Look for vintage board games and copies of National Geographic from the ’70s in the library, and don’t miss the lobby’s general store or the daily happy hour — the hotel is the only one on Moonstone Beach with a liquor license. From $299/night; whitewatercambria.com. 2

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SHOPPING GUIDE

McQueen, Beverly Hills, 323-782-4983. Miu Miu bag, $1,950; miumiu.com. Valentino

boots 975; Stella McCartney, Beverly Hills. Vram Chrona 18-karat yellow gold

Garavani Atelier Petal bag, $2,995; valentino.com.

hoops, $4,800, and Chrona 18-karat yellow gold ring, $5,600; vramjewelry.com. p.92

MASH IT UP

ON OUR COVER

Versace denim jacket with red quilted lining, $1,925, blue sweater with white zipper, $1,750, quilted satin miniskirt, $925, black leather high hiking boots, $1,450, and

p.64 Prada tweed coat, $3,700, black organza dress, $2,480, beaded pleat collar,

red and blue top-handle Virtus bag, $1,925; versace.com. Jacques Marie Mage Nova

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2020 Look 21 virgin wool tank, $1,400, Chanel, Beverly Hills.

price upon request, blue knit bra top, $555, blue knit tights, $495, black lace-up

Ultra pink sunglasses, $600; jacquesmariemage.com. Elie Top Mecaniques Celestes

Eriness double diamond ear cuff, $575, eriness.com. Zoë Chicco 14-karat gold ear cuff

shoes, price upon request, and silver pill box bracelet, $975; prada.com. Vera Wang

Scaphandre onyx ring, $8,202; elietop.com. p.93 Christian Dior long tasseled and

with small baguette diamond, $225, zoechicco.com.

sand handsculpted Italian tulle top with leather strap detail and gray wool tailored

embroidered tulle dress, logo bra top and panties, and crochet black knee socks,

sleeves with varsity trim detail, $4,200, and black wool shorts, $950; Vera Wang,

all prices upon request, 800-929-DIOR; us.dior.com. Jimmy Choo black leather

991 Madison Ave., New York, 212-628-3400; farfetch.com. Kate Spade faux leopard

biker boots with gold buckles, $950; us.jimmychoo.com. Irene Neuwirth flat gold

p.26 Givenchy V-neck long coat with checked back and hook, $6,120, long scarf

jacket, price upon request; katespade.com. Jimmy Choo western-style black

18-karat rose gold drop large circle earrings, $4,690; ireneneuwirth.com. Elgé (4)

with faux fur patchwork, $4,820, Antigona soft medium bag, $2,650, and long wide

and silver pumps, $950; jimmychoo.com. Earrings, stylist’s own. Saint Laurent

The Six / Rose Gold, $5,500 each; elgejewelry.com; Just One Eye, L.A. p.95 Michael

gloves made of lambskin in Oxblood red, $1,250; givenchy.com. Roam black faux

by Anthony Vaccarello tartan blazer, $3,590, vinyl frilled dress, $6,190, and Kika

Kors Collection leather laced aran pullover, $2,290, leather laced scarf, $1,590, and

fur Cloud slippers, $130; roamwears.com. Irene Neuwirth Gumball 18-karat rose

slingback pump with velvet ankle strap ribbon, $895; Saint Laurent, 326 N. Rodeo

tiered fringe skirt, $2,990; michaelkors.com. Vram Echo ring in 18-karat yellow gold,

gold earrings, $7,240; ireneneuwirth.com. Reese Cooper Hunting Division varsity

Dr., Beverly Hills; ysl.com. Oscar de la Renta large resin Impatiens earrings, $420;

$4,200; vramjewelry.com. Kendall Conrad The Girona backpack black napa leather,

jacket, $1,495, T-shirt, $185, and care label strap belt, $50; reesecooper.com. Reese

personalshopper@odlr.com. Lace gloves, stylist’s own. Louis Vuitton ski jacket, price

$590; kendallconrad.com. p.96 Balenciaga black faux fur swing cocoon coat, $2,990,

Cooper camo cargo pants, $360; saksfifthavenue.com. Season Three Ansel boots,

upon request, monogram-print long-sleeved turtleneck top, $1,280, mix-material

and black cotton denim front kick skirt, $995; balenciaga.com. Elie Top Mecaniques

$345; seasonthree.com. Reese Cooper deer crest cotton bandanna, $48, crewneck

tiered skirt, price upon request, matador ankle boot, $1,630, and diamante baguette

Celeste Pluton long earrings, $13,956, Cosmogony Secrete Chevaliers ring, $5,742,

sweatshirt, $375, and herringbone cotton cargo pants, $540; reesecooper.com.

necklace, price upon request; louisvuitton.com.

and Mecaniques Celestes Scaphandre onyx ring, $8,202; elietop.com. Christian

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Season Three Ansel boots, $345; seasonthree.com. Reese Cooper women’s varsity

Louboutin black boots with perspex sectioned heel, $1,295; christianlouboutin.

jacket, $1,020, collegiate T-shirt, $185, and pleated denim jeans, $595; reesecooper.

BRIGHT FUTURE

com. Louis Vuitton ski jacket, price upon request, monogram-print long-sleeved

p.69 Givenchy long cape dress in Flamingo, $3,690; givenchy.com. p.70 Maxmara

with faux fur patchwork, $4,820, Antigona soft medium bag, $2,650, and long wide

turtleneck top, $1,280, mix material tiered skirt, price upon request, matador ankle

Fern gown with ruffle detai, $1,190; Max Mara, 451 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills,

gloves made of lambskin in Oxblood red, $1,250; givenchy.com. Roam black faux fur

boot, $1,630, and diamante baguette necklace, price upon request; louisvuitton.com.

310-385-9343; maxmara.com. Birkenstock Madrid Big Buckle slide in Ochre

Cloud slippers, $130; roamwears.com. Irene Neuwirth Gumball 18-karat rose gold

nubuck, $130; birkenstock.com. Kendall Conrad gold ear cuff, $60; kendallconrad.

earrings, $7,240; ireneneuwirth.com. p.98 Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello

com. p.71 Fendi yellow nylon jersey shirt, $2,100; fendi.com/us. Oliver Peoples

purple wool blazer, $3,390, mustard chiffon tie neck blouse, $1,790, ruby red latex

p.52 Dolce & Gabbana embroidered jacket, $5,345, beaded skirt, $6,745, lace-up boots,

Rayette special edition in soft gold metal and yellow, $393; oliverpeoples.com/

leggings, $890, black patent leather belt with gold buckle, price upon request,

$3,695, and black leather handbag, $2,695; dolcegabbana.com. Socks, stylist’s own.

usa. p.72 Valentino creamy berry micro faille dress with puffy sleeves, maxi

purple leather gloves, $495, and blue and black square clip earrings, $595; ysl.com.

Vram Nocturne 18-karat white gold, 1.01-carat gray diamond and black rhodium

bow and V-neck, $2,890; valentino.com. p.73 Paco Rabanne orange pampilles

p.99 Moncler 8 by Richard Quinn black and white printed nylon catsuit, $660, with

earrings, $3,200; vramjewelry.com. Fendi pink oversized wool sweater, $1,690,

assemblage dress, $4,800; pacorabanne.com. Kendall Conrad gold ear cuff, $60;

matching hooded puffa jacket, $3,665. Both Gao high-heel zip boots, $580; both.

green pleated leather skirt, $5,900; fendi.com. CH Carolina Herrera Victoria

kendallconrad.com. p.75 Gucci sparkling rose lamé all-over crystal embroidered

com. Mykita + MM6 Maison Margiela black solarized visor sunglasses, $505; mykita.

Insignia American wallet, $465; chcarolinaherrera.com. Irene Neuwirth Super

long-sleeve shirt, $3,500, violet multicolor silk satin georgette all-over sequins

com; maisonmargiela.com. p.100 Brunello Cucinelli alpaca and cashmere cardigan,

Bloom 18-karat yellow gold 20 mm flower post earrings set with 11 mm pink opal

embroidered long skirt with high slit at the side, $3,900, and bracelet with double

$9,700, and tailored trousers, $1,395, Brunello Cucinelli, Beverly Hills, 310-724-8118.

cabochons, $3,150; ireneneuwirth.com. Vince lace dress, $445, and brown cashmere

G detail in purple resin aged gold finish metal and crystals, $980; gucci.com.

Kendall Conrad Naked square bangles (right wrist), $220 each, Naked square

sweater, $365; vince.com. Jimmy Choo Thandi tan slingbacks, $695; jimmychoo.com.

Eriness double diamond ear cuff, $575; eriness.com. p.76 Prada yellow ruffle-front

bangle III (left wrist), $350, Gyro ring III, $250, and Naked square hoops in solid,

CH Carolina Herrera Doma Insignia satchel shoulder bag, $1,755; chcarolinaherrera.

dress, $2,110; prada.com. Zoë Chicco 14-karat half round wide band ring, $535;

hand-polished bright brass, $180; kendallconrad.com. p.101 Longchamp embossed

com. Burberry camel Harrington jacket with draped back, $3,050, soft fawn check

zoechicco.com. p.77 Bottega Veneta women’s polyester jacket, $1,650, and

patent lambskin leather coat with shearling collar, $5,505, patent calfskin leather

shirt, $1,450, multicolor pleated print skirt, $1,990, and juniper green double BB belt,

women’s polyester pants, $1,170; bottegaveneta.com.

high-heeled boots, $1,220, patent calfskin leather Le Pliage Cuir travel bag, $1,035,

RETRO ROMANCE

com. p.97 Givenchy V-neck long coat with checked back and hook, $6,120, long scarf

Shopping Guide

$660; burberry.com. Irene Neuwirth Super bloom 18-karat yellow and white gold 20

mm to 22 mm flower earrings set with full cut diamonds, $9,750; ireneneuwirth.com.

SHINE BRIGHT

DESERT STORM

p.67 Tom Ford vermillion orange Shibori double silk georgette tie-dye kaftan, $6,450, gray and white Melange cotton jersey oversize sweatpants with drawstrings,

and patent calfskin leather belt, $290; longchamp.com. Kendall Conrad Cresta ring II in sterling silver, $320, and Gyro ring in sterling silver, $360; and Naked square hoops in solid hand-polished bright brass, $180; kendallconrad.com.

p.54 Jimmy Choo silver metallic nappa leather block-heel mules with crystal drape,

$1,450, gray luxury cotton knitted socks with TF logo, $280, silver laminated

REESE COOPER’S FASHION REVOLUTION

$995; us.jimmychoo.com.

stamped python disco platforms, $1,390, and chartreuse and pale gold feather and

p.103 Reese Cooper hunting division varsity jacket, $1,495, T-shirt, $185, and

brass earrings, $890; tomford.com . Élgé (2) The Twelve yellow gold bracelets,

care label strap belt, $50; reesecooper.com. Reese Cooper camo cargo pants,

$8,500 each, (2) The Twelve rose gold bracelets, $8,500 each , The Nine rose gold

$360; saksfifthavenue.com. Season Three Ansel boots, $345; seasonthree.com.

p.56 Roger Vivier broche strass Hotel Vivier slipper, $1,595; rogervivier.com. R0AM

bracelets, $6,800 each, and The Six rose gold bracelets, $5,500 each; elgejewelry.

Reese Cooper deer crest cotton bandanna, $48, crewneck sweatshirt, $375, and

Cloud beige slippers, $130; roamwears.com. Vince Loni slippers, $150; vince.com.

com; Just One Eye, L.A. p.87 Bottega Veneta shearling coat, $9,450, viscose dress,

herringbone cotton cargo pants, $540; reesecooper.com. Season Three Ansel boots,

UGG Fluff Yeah slides in vibrant coral, $100; ugg.com.

$3,980, nappa leather boots, $1,950, and leather bag, $4,500; bottegaveneta.com.

$345; seasonthree.com. Reese Cooper women’s varsity jacket, $1,020, collegiate

Jennifer Fisher 2-inch Drew hoops in 10-karat gold-plated brass, $295, and triple

T-shirt, $185, and pleated denim jeans, $595; reesecooper.com. p.104 Reese Cooper

tube ring in 10-karat yellow gold-plated brass, $325; jenniferfisherjewelry.com. p.88

herringbone wool cropped jacket, $885, coyote T-shirt, $185, and herringbone wool

p.57 Giorgio Armani belt, $1,795, similar styles available; armani.com. Hermès

Miu Miu faux fur belted jacket, $5,800, and leopard print skirt, $1,900; miumiu.

cargo trousers, $625; reesecooper.com. Reese Cooper bandanna patchwork button-

women’s leather belt, $495, and Ceinture belt buckle, $290; hermes.com. Givenchy

com. Christian Louboutin black print skin boots with diamante tassels, $2,995;

down shirt, $500, and corduroy pants, $480; reesecooper.com. Season Three Ansel

Double G leather belt, $395; givenchy.com. Dior 30 Montaigne belt, $840; dior.com.

christianlouboutin.com. Sylvie Corbelin LDG Confie Adamante Initiee silver ring,

boots, $345; seasonthree.com. p.105 Reese Cooper deer crest cotton bandanna, $48;

$5,800; sylviecorbelin.com. Oscar de la Renta embroidered crystal and ostrich

reesecooper.com. Reese Cooper T-shirt, $185; mrporter.com. p107 Top row, left to

feather earrings, $450; personalshopper@odlr.com. Belt, stylist’s own. p.89 Tod’s

right: Reese Cooper color-blocked puffer jacket, $1,950; reesecooper.com. Reese

p.60 Balmain red leather bustier and black velvet pants, price upon request; balmain.

brown leather shearling peacoat, $6,145, and yellow leather Hobo bag, $1945; tods.

Cooper T-shirt, $185; mrporter.com. Reese Cooper crewneck sweatshirt, $375, and

com. Amato long black velvet gloves, similar styles available; amatonewyork.com.

com. Fendi beige knit bra and brief, $390, brown gingham cotton socks, $150, and

herringbone cotton cargo pants, $540; reesecooper.com. Reese Cooper hunting

Chanel black suede gauntlet gloves with pearl, bow and chain detail, $1,400, Fantasy

Canary yellow platform slingbacks, $1,050; fendi.com. Mykita + MM6 Maison

division varsity jacket, $1,495; reesecooper.com. Reese Cooper camo cargo pants,

check tweed bustier, price upon request, and gray wool pants, $3,450; 800-550-0005;

Margiela camel visor sunglasses, $505; mykita.com; maisonmargiela.com. Daniela

$360; saksfifthavenue.com. Reese Cooper varsity jacket, $1,020, collegiate T-shirt,

chanel.com. Rodarte red velvet dress with ruching details, gold dangle earrings with

Villegas Chameleon ring, $22,000, and Rain earrings, $13,000; info@danielavillegas.

$185, and pleated denim jeans, $595; reesecooper.com. Middle row, left to right:

scarlet Swarovski crystal stud detail, and off-white glove with hand-beaded siam

com. p.90 Giorgio Armani black cashmere marabou feathers effect knit coat, $7,450,

Reese Cooper crewneck sweatshirt, $375, and herringbone cotton cargo pants,

crystal and pearl tassels, similar styles available; rodarte.net. Gucci cumin powder

gray balloon knit trousers with detail on the hem, price upon request; armani.

$540; reesecooper.com. Reese Cooper bandanna patchwork button down shirt,

multicolor silk light embroidered organdy mini dress with contrast lace bib collar

com. Jimmy Choo yellow smooth calf leather bucket bag with fringing and studs,

$500, and corduroy pants, $480; reesecooper.com. Season Three ansel boots, $345;

and bottom lace details and flower-embroidered details at the chest, $5,980, black

$1,995, and black smooth calf leather bucket bag with fringing and studs, $1,995;

seasonthree.com. Reese Cooper herringbone wool cropped jacket, $885, coyote

shiny leather belted corset, $1,980, and crochet gloves, $430; gucci.com.

us.jimmychoo.com. Roam black faux fur Cloud slippers, $130; roamwears.com.

T-shirt, $185, and herringbone wool cargo trousers, $625; reesecooper.com. Bottom

Roxanne Assoulin bracelet, $225, available December 2020; roxanneassoulin.

row, Reese Cooper deer crest cotton bandanna, $48, crewneck sweatshirt, $375, and

com. Mykita + MM6 Maison Margiela white visor sunglasses, $505; mykita.com;

herringbone cotton cargo pants, $540; reesecooper.com.

BIG SOFTIES

BELT UP

GLOVE LOVE

CODE RED p.60 Bottega Veneta BV Whirl clutch, $1,980; bottegaveneta.com. Alexander

maisonmargiela.com. p.91 Salvatore Ferragamo Lipstick red shearling coat, $6,700,

McQueen Welsh red leather oversized quilt story shoulder bag, $2,890; Alexander

multicolor lurex dress, $1,990; ferragamo.com. Stella McCartney brown Emilie

C Magazine is published 8 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 Seventh St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone: 310-393-3800. Fax: 310-393-3899. Email (editorial): edit@magazinec.com.

Subscriptions: Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year; orders outside U.S. and Canada, add $49 postage; rest of the world, add $69. Single copies and subscriptions: shop.magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 1339, Santa Monica, CA 90406.

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D

MY

C A L I F O R N I A

I Farmer and the Cook in Ojai; “glamping” at El Capitan [Canyon] in the cabins.

S C

Which car do you drive? A vintage Land Rover or 1983 Mercedes wagon, biodiesel.

O V

Favorite drive? Between Santa Barbara and Goleta, or from Carmel to Big Sur.

E R

What do you wear in the day?

I mostly wear vintage Levi’s with Enza Costa or Ceres pieces, and if I’m feeling more dressy, I love Christy Dawn or Dôen.

I E S

What do you wear in the evening? Vintage dresses from YSL, Gucci, Yohji Yamamoto, Chloé and the Victorian era.

The model and first-ever C cover star shares her Golden State favorites Where do you live? Secret spot between the mountains and the sea.

Favorite beach? I love surfing Rincon, but my favorites are in Big Sur — Pfeiffer Beach in particular because of the ruggedness, and the surrounding area is a giant playground.

Favorite takeout? I love Gjusta in Venice for their breads and smoked fish.

I’m a food snob.

Favorite hotel? Post Ranch Inn. Mickey Muennig is a genius architect, integrating

114

My CA

structures with the land [and using] native plants as roof coverings.

Favorite cocktail? I like the occasional “salty dog” in summer, which is grapefruit juice with a splash of vodka and a salted rim.

Favorite market? The Ojai Certified Farmers Market is the best. For vintage furniture I love exploring Summerland or Santa Paula.

Favorite Californian wine?

Someone recently gave me a bottle of pinot noir from Scribe Winery in Sonoma, and it was super yummy.

Where do you take visiting friends?

Cruising up the coast: tacos in Santa Barbara;

Favorite skincare? I can’t live without my Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair, I’ve used it for over 25 years.

I love the Rosewater and Glycerin spray from Heritage Store and Weleda body cream.

Go-to facialist? Terri Lawton for 20 years now!

She is more than a facialist, she’s a healer.

What book are you reading?

At the moment, Essential Mary Austin and Braiding Sweetgrass.

Last TV show you binged? Down to Earth With Zac Efron. •

C MAGAZINE’S SEPTEMBER 2005 COVER: BRIAN BOWEN SMITH.

CAROLYN MURPHY

What’s in your cosmetics bag?

I use Double Wear concealer and Sumptuous mascara from Estée Lauder, and if I’m feeling dressy, Pure Color Classic Red for my lips.

In every vintage, there are a few wines that rise above the rest.

PLATINUM COLLECTION

BY HALL WINES

Hall Wines

HALLPLATINUMWINES.COM

Christian Dior

S O U T H C O A S T P L A Z A 714 . 5 4 9. 470 0 D I O R .C O M