C California Style & Culture by C Magazine

F A S H I O N

Spring 2022

I S S U E

Cover

At Home with Nick Fouquet

A S TY

URE C LT

Dan Levy’s Hidden Talent

IF OR NI

The Sky’s the Limit for Zazie Beetz

PLUS MONIQUE LHUILLIER / SIXTIES STYLE / EVE BABITZ / FASHION HOTELS

& CU

Hermes

Prada

Saint Laurent

Miu Miu

Chanel

Bottega Veneta

Dolce & Gabbana

MaxMara

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BEVERLY HILLS / COSTA MESA

MaxMara

Cartier

Versace

Brunello Cucinelli

Van Cleef & Arpels

Valentino

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Pomellato

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Spring 2022 STATEMENTS Gucci goes to Hollywood with its new “Love Parade” collection................................................ 55

A gilded Guo Pei retrospective comes to the Legion of Honor.................................................... 57 A new exhibition celebrates Alexander McQueen and those who inspired him.......... 60

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Precious stones that will make you green with envy............................................................................. 62

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In memoriam: Eve Babitz, chronicler of L.A. cool.................................................................................... 70

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FEATURES

Fashion looks to the Sixties in the Roaring Twenties............................................................................................. 76 Netflix’s favorite funnyman, Dan Levy, has hidden talents................................................................................ 90 Zazie Beetz takes the Spring/Summer collections for a spin........................................................................ 98 Inside Nick Fouquet’s geodesic dome in Topanga Canyon............................................................................. 110

DISCOVERIES

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Meet the most fashionable hotels in the world........................................................................................................ 121 Chanel’s new clean and sustainable No. 1 de Chanel collection................................................................ 125 How designer Monique Lhuillier switches off............................................................................................................ 129

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Ralph Lauren

R ALPH

Ralph Lauren

L AUR EN

D I G ITA L

C O N T E N T S

T H I S J U ST I N . . .

WHAT’S HOT ON MAGAZINEC.COM FEATU R I NG

EXCLUSIVE VIDEOS

FASHION NEWS The latest from our favorite homegrown labels and international brands

TOC 2 DECOR & DESIGN Inside the Malibu weekend retreat of The Webster founder Laure Hériard Dubreuil

COVER STAR ZAZIE BEETZ ON THE ROLES THAT DEFINE HER

PLUS TH E L ATEST

TRAVE L

PROFI LES

CU LTU R E

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ZAZIE BEETZ: JACK WATERLOT. FASHION NEWS: FERRAGAMO. DECOR & DESIGN: THE INGALLS. TRAVEL: LENA BRITT PHOTOGRAPHY. PROFILES: MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION. CULTURE: DAVID ALLEN; CRAIG DIETZ; JIM FRANK; RICHARD YOUNG.

Behind-the-scenes interviews with our cover stars

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JENNIFER SMITH

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Editor & President Chief Content Officer ANDREW BARKER

Chief Creative Officer JAMES TIMMINS

Beauty Director

Senior Editors

Contributing Graphic Designer

KELLY ATTERTON

KELSEY McKINNON

DEAN ALARI

Contributing Fashion Editor

ELIZABETH VARNELL

GINA TOLLESON

Contributing Photo Editor

REBECCA RUSSELL

LAUREN WHITE

Copy Editor JEFF ANDERSON

Deputy Managing Editor ANUSH J. BENLIYAN

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Contributing Editors Caroline Cagney, Elizabeth Khuri Chandler, Kendall Conrad, Danielle DiMeglio, Nandita Khanna, Stephanie Rafanelli, Diane Dorrans Saeks, Stephanie Steinman, Nathan Turner Contributing Writers Max Berlinger, Catherine Bigelow, Christina Binkley, Samantha Brooks, Alessandra Codinha, Kerstin Czarra, Peter Davis, Helena de Bertodano, Rob Haskell, Martha Hayes, Marshall Heyman, David Hochman, Christine Lennon, Ira Madison III, Martha McCully, David Nash, Jessica Ritz, Dan Rookwood, S. Irene Virbila, Chris Wallace Contributing Photographers Guy Aroch, David Cameron, Mark Griffin Champion, Gia Coppola, Victor Demarchelier, Amanda Demme, Michelangelo Di Battista, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Adrian Gaut, Beau Grealy, Zoey Grossman, Pamela Hanson, Rainer Hosch, Kurt Iswarienko, Danielle Levitt, Kurt Markus, Blair Getz Mezibov, Lee Morgan, Ben Morris, Pia Riverola, David Roemer, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jack Waterlot, Jan Welters Contributing Fashion Directors Chris Campbell, Petra Flannery, Maryam Malakpour, Katie Mossman, Samantha Traina

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Alexander McQueen

F O U N D E R’S

L E T T E R

EDITORS’ PICKS This month’s wish list

y childhood love of telling stories through acting morphed over time into a passion for capturing narratives in printed publications, and while it’s through a different medium, I realize I am still doing what I love. To me, one of the secrets to a happy life is finding what moves and excites you and making that your life’s focus. The creatives we profile in this Spring Fashion issue have also uncovered that secret, and turned their dreams into professions. Take our cover subject, the extraordinarily talented Zazie Beetz, whose star-making turn in Joker and the hit TV series Atlanta only solidify that she is on the right track as she nails every role she takes on, whether in Westerns, dramas, comedies or comic-book adaptations. Emmy award-winning Schitt’s Creek creator and star Dan Levy, while loving his time behind and in front of the camera (he has many film projects in the works), has newfound excitement in relaunching his near-and-dear eyewear brand D.L. Eyewear. We profile the actor-writer-director-designer and his business partner Elena Doukas as they take their company to the next level. Nick Fouquet has truly made a name for himself designing hats for every cool kid, musician, cowboy and actor out there — not to mention special collabs along the way with Givenchy, Rochas and Borsalino. His line of chapeaus speaks for itself, but it is the world of Nick Fouquet that is really inspiring. His unique approach to fashion translates into the interiors of his newly renovated home, a geodesic dome in Topanga Canyon, which we explore in this issue. With recent forays into clothing and footwear, as well as a full in-house ready-to-wear line launching this fall, there really are no limits for where he will go. But it is at home, in his own magical wonderland and surrounded by his friends, decked out all in his creations, that we find him enjoying every moment — proving the point that when you follow your passion and honor your gifts, you are truly on the path to happiness.

CHANEL Fancy metal and resin belt, $1,800, chanel.com.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Heritage poppy silk foulard, $450, ferragamo.com.

Founder’s Note

Founder, Editorial Director and CEO

Star Trail sandal, $1,300, louisvuitton.com.

ON THE COVER

Photography by JACK WATERLOT. Fashion Direction by PETRA FLANNERY. Hair by Miles Jeffries at The Wall Group using Oribe. Makeup by Kara Yoshimoto Bua at A-Frame Agency using Chanel. Manicure by Emi Kudo at Opus Beauty using Chanel Le Vernis. ZAZIE BEETZ wears PRADA dress and DAVID WEBB earrings.

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JENNIFER SMITH

LOUIS VUITTON

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P E O P L E

DAN ROOKWOOD JACK WATERLOT With a client list that includes Tom Ford, Vogue, W and Numéro, lensman Jack Waterlot has photographed the likes of Anne Hathaway, Naomi Campbell and Priyanka Chopra. For this issue, the Paris-born, New York Citybased visual artist focused his eye on Zazie Beetz for our cover feature, p.98. MY C SPOTS • I used to live in L.A. for a while, and to this day my favorite place to hang out is Topanga Canyon • I love Malibu Seafood on PCH • The Great Frog jewelry store on Melrose

Dan Rookwood is a writer and former U.S. editor of Mr Porter and global editorial director of Nike. He is a lifelong glasses wearer with an eyewear collection to rival that of his interview subject, Dan Levy (“Who Framed Dan Levy?,” p.90). MY C SPOTS • I fantasize about staying at San Ysidro Ranch in Montecito on an extended writing residency to write the Great American Novel • Arcana Books is a destination bookshop in Culver City where I could spend an entire day and an entire fortune • Hardly a secret, but the pasta at Felix is worth the Abbot Kinney hype/wait

Contributors

KATIE MOSSMAN

GRAHAM DUNN Based in Los Angeles, photographer Graham Dunn spent his childhood growing up in Ojai and exploring Europe and the Southwestern U.S. with his travel-writer father and family — an upbringing that informs his work today. His nature- and nostalgia-inspired style can be seen in “Thoroughly Modern Mods,” p.76. MY C SPOTS • Prospect Coffee in Ventura. Try the espresso tonic on a hot day • Sunny Blue in Santa Monica is an omusubi (Japanese rice ball) spot — inexpensive and delicious • Ojai Meadows Preserve is beautiful and dog-friendly

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DAN ROOKWOOD: JON HUMPHRIES. GRAHAM DUNN: TYLER ASH.

Stylist Katie Mossman — who did the fashion direction for our ’60s-inspired fashion portfolio, “Thoroughly Modern Mods,” p.76 — has worked with industry legends including Patrick Demarchelier, Karl Lagerfeld and Peter Lindbergh. The New York-based creative’s work has been seen on the pages of Elle and Harper’s Bazaar. MY C SPOTS • Pierce & Ward in Los Feliz is a charming little shop with antiques, artworks and yummy cozy farmhouse tchotchkes. A feast for the eyes • L.A. Rose Cafe in East Hollywood for traditional Filipino food • Switzer Falls in the San Gabriel Mountains is an epic hike that leads to the prize at the end: a waterfall

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The GUCCI Spring 2022 show — aka Gucci Love Parade — was presented in front of the TCL Chinese Theatre in Hollywood.

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CONTRIBUTORS ANUSH J. BENLIYAN ALESSANDRA CODINHA KELSEY McKINNON DAVID NASH REBECCA RUSSELL ELIZABETH VARNELL

KEVIN TACHMAN

S. IRENE VIRBILA

STYLE

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STREET THEATER

Gucci stages its Spring 2022 Love Parade collection on Hollywood Boulevard

he double doors and copper facade of the 1927 movie palace built by Sid Grauman in partnership with Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks and Howard Schenck beckoned at the start of Gucci’s Spring 2022 presentation, shown beneath Hollywood Boulevard’s neon lights. As Björk’s “All Is Full of Love” began to pulse, models clad in creative director Alessandro Michele’s eclectic mix of screen-siren gowns and wide-lapel jackets, or skintight jumpsuits and street-style sneakers, walked between the two Ming-dynasty lions guarding the TCL Chinese Theatre’s entrance. His Gucci Love Parade runway show — with a cast including Kodi Smit-McPhee, Jared Leto, St. Vincent, Miranda July and Phoebe Bridgers — proceeded across the theater’s

CULTURE

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cement forecourt, with its yards of handand footprinted slabs, and along the gritty boulevard’s Walk of Stars. Grounded as much in contemporary Los Angeles as Old Hollywood, the presentation also included a donation to Los Angeles programs supporting mental health and the city’s unhoused through the fashion brand’s global Changemakers program. Michele’s 115-look collection, spun equally from his embrace of L.A. and his mother’s alluring stories from her work as an assistant at a film production company, celebrates his own escape from the outskirts of the Italian capital to the center of the fashion world. He describes his early interpretation of the word Hollywood as “nine letters dripping with desire,” a fitting definition for a place he filled with yards of lace, feathers, latex and silk for one glamorous evening. gucci.com. E.V. BEAUTY

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ROSANTICA x 120% LINO Monopoli tote, $545.

SHINE BRIGHT Sparkle purses

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NATURAL WORLD 120% Lino, the storied brand behind dresses, suits, jackets, trousers and knitwear made of breathable natural linen woven from organic flax fibers in Italy, is collaborating with Michela Panero’s jewelry and handbag label Rosantica on an earthy new collection of roomy bags crafted from natural materials. The new sustainable Rosantica x 120% Lino designs are made of natural and colored straw with wooden beads and wooden chains, linen details and linings, and bamboo handles. Panero says the Scalea, a statementmaking round Vienna wicker bag, evokes the “glamour and fun” of summers she spent in St-Tropez. Other soft and packable designs include the handwoven Monopoli holdall and the Ravello shopper that converts into an elegant backpack for stashing souvenirs. 73545 El Paseo, Palm Desert, 442-666-3297; 9533 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 424-3550119; 120percento.com. E.V.

ASHYA x MICHAEL KORS Saga Signature and leather Bolo bags, from $298.

Ashya co-founders Ashley Cimone and Moya Annece aim to help modern explorers move more thoughtfully through the world by researching cultural narratives and design as they create chic, unisex, hands-free travel accessories. This spring, the Jamaican Americans, who met at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, are collaborating with Michael Kors on a limited-edition Moya Multi belt bag and Ashley Bolo bag — two of Ashya’s signature silhouettes. Created to be worn in a variety of ways, the adaptable leather designs include lined compartments for essentials and credit card sleeves. Both bags are adorned in a custom print incorporating the MK logo into a new pattern inspired by West African weaving techniques. Cimone and Annece note that African textiles are conduits of stories passed down within communities, which makes them fitting for this crossgenerational partnership. michaelkors.com. E.V.

1. DRIES VAN NOTEN Pistache embroidered bag, $1,635. 2. DOLCE & GABBANA sequined bag, $2,145. 3. JIMMY CHOO Callie crystal bag, $3,095. 4. ALEXANDER McQUEEN mini jeweled bag, $2,390. R.R.

MAKERS MARKS The new volume Louis Vuitton Manufactures (Assouline, $95), featuring the artisans who produce the maison’s ready-to-wear clothing, leather goods, high jewelry, watches, shoes and fragrances — and exploring the ateliers where they work — is a behind-the-scenes look at the meticulous techniques and savoir faire carried forward from the French house’s founding. Images commissioned for the book depict traditional craft skills passed down through generations of artisans. The workrooms in France (Paris’ Place Vendôme, Grasse, Rhône-Alpes, Normandy, the Loire Valley and more), Switzerland, Italy and Texas, some of which are historic sites, also take center stage, illuminating the day-to-day workbenches where makers create the myriad collections designed each year and their environs. These spaces, points out Nicholas Foulkes in the introduction, “are a daily affirmation of the power and the continued relevance of the analogue and its place in our lives.” assouline.com. E.V. An artisan at work at LOUIS VUITTON's 11 Atelier d’Asnières in Asnières-sur-Seine, France, as seen in Louis Vuitton Manufactures.

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LOUIS VUITTON: OLIVER PILCHER. GUO PEI: LIAN XU, COURTESY THE ARTIST AND THE FINE ARTS MUSEUMS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

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FAVORITE DAUGHTER in Beverly Hills.

SISTER ACT Empire-building Erin and Sara Foster — the writers, producers and stars of the wry comedic hit Barely Famous, and the minds behind the year-old ready-to-wear line Favorite Daughter — just opened a Beverly Hills boutique. The sisters, whose father is composer and music producer David Foster (writer and producer of some of the greatest ballads, including Whitney Houston’s “I Have Nothing”), house their full line of closet staples, including sweaters, jackets, denim and dresses, in a 1,000-square-foot space designed by Fai Khadra in a riot of pastels. “Right away it feels unlike anything else on the street,” says Erin. The fashion venture is a partnership between the sisters and Centric Brands (the parent company of Los Angeles-based Joe’s Jeans), and the duo’s younger sister, Jordan Foster, serves as style director. 346 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, 323-215-2064; shopfavoritedaughter.com. E.V.

PEI IT FORWARD It’s a fashion first for celebrated designer Guo Pei, as the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco debut “Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy,” the inaugural career-spanning exhibition for China’s internationally recognized couturier. Over 80 ensembles highlighting her most iconic presentations from the last two decades — as well as many never seen before — will be set stylishly throughout the permanentcollection and special-exhibition galleries of the Legion of Honor. Among those on display are a gold-embroidered look from her 2006 “Samsara (Lifecycle)” collection which stands among French and Italian Baroque masterpieces, and several seminal pieces from her 2016 “Encounter” and “Courtyard” collections that dot the French and British painting and Decorative Arts galleries. Guo — a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture since 2016 — came into view for Western audiences a year earlier when Rihanna wore a monumental canary-yellow gown to the Met Gala, but it’s now the designer’s turn to take a bow. Apr. 16 through Sept. 5. 100 34th Ave., San Francisco, 415-750-3600; legionofhonor.org. D.N.

Statement - Style From top: GUO PEI's Alternate Universe Fall/ Winter 2020 show. A look from the Garden of Soul collection, 2015. A shoe from 2012's Legend of the Dragon collection.

SNEAKY BLINDERS Hot kicks for spring

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1. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI sneakers, $950. 2. GIVENCHY Giv 1 TR sneakers, $995. 3. FENDI Match sneakers, $930. 4. NEW BALANCE x MIU MIU sneakers, $695. R.R.

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T R E N D BOTTEGA VENETA blue bag, $3,600, and orange The Point bag, $5,500.

CLUTCH CONTROL Arm candy for a life in the fast lane

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Photography by GRAHAM DUNN 58

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DIVINE INSPIRATION A new LACMA show explores the influences behind Alexander McQueen’s oeuvre ee Alexander McQueen’s fantastical, intense and otherworldly fashion shows, a blend of performance art and avant-garde installation propelled by dramatic collection narratives, birthed silhouettes that remain distinctive a decade after the designer’s death. Now LACMA costume and textile curators Clarissa Esguerra and Michaela Hansen are exploring the parallels between McQueen’s themes and references and those tapped by a canon of artmakers whose work is in the museum’s permanent collection. Their new exhibition, “Lee Alexander McQueen: Mind, Mythos, Muse” (Apr. 24 through Oct. 9), is both a study of McQueen’s influences and a look at similar cycles of inspiration driving works by a range of artists from Francisco Goya to Andreas Gursky. “McQueen’s multiple sources and themes led us to the idea of contextualizing his works within art history across time, place and medium,” says Esguerra. The show, comprising McQueen looks compiled over

the past 25 years by Los Angeles collector Regina J. Drucker and gifted to the museum, draws attention to some of the most arresting ideas explored by the Savile Row-trained tailor. Beginning with pieces from 1996, when he arrived at the helm of Givenchy, the exhibition also includes digitally engineered prints from Plato’s Atlantis, conjured in response to rising sea levels, and selections from the Fall/Winter 2010 show Untitled (Angels and Demons), which was completed after McQueen’s untimely death by his womenswear studio under the direction of Sarah Burton, the label’s current creative director. Esguerra notes that in addition to McQueen’s body-conscious silhouettes (he loved Azzedine Alaïa’s work), the designer “drew a lot from historic European fashion, ranging from silhouettes, textiles and aesthetics of the Elizabethan era to the Victorian and Edwardian periods.” Due to his creative range, the show is full of inventive pairings, including a link between Plato’s Atlantis garments and the coastal land masses in Gursky’s “Ocean” series, made in the same year. Esguerra points out

Clockwise from top left: ALEXANDER McQUEEN’s Fall/Winter 2009 runway show. A dress from the Spring/Summer 2010 collection. Un Caballero español mata un toro despues de haber perdido el caballero, 1816, by Francisco de Goya y Lucientes. Portrait of Louis XIII, King of France as a Boy, circa 1616, by Frans Pourbus II. A look from McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2006 The Widows of Culloden collection.

parallels between the “undercurrents of eroticism and death” in McQueen’s matadorinspired Spring/Summer 2002 collection, The Dance of the Twisted Bull, and dramatic dichotomies of brutality and beauty in bullfighting series by Goya and Pablo Picasso. Soon the cycles of inspiration seem to play out endlessly, like a continuous M. C. Escher drawing — another favored McQueen motif. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323-857-6000; lacma.org. 2

Words by ELIZABETH VARNELL 60

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RUNWAY: PASCAL LE SEGRETAIN/GETTY IMAGES. ARTWORKS: MUSEUM ASSOCIATES / LACMA.

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EMERALD ENVY Green stones to covet and collect

Clockwise from top left: SAUER Luck ring, $2,560. TIFFANY & CO. Elsa Peretti Color by the Yard necklace, $5,650. KATKIM pearset ring, $9,400. BUCCELLATI Éternelle ring, $37,000. AZLEE Staircase earrings, $4,600. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Ludo Secret timepiece, $272,000. BULGARI Magnifica High Jewelry earrings, price upon request. POMELLATO La Gioia Gourmette Caméléon necklace, price upon request. CARTIER Panthère de Cartier ring, $22,800. R.R.

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ESCAPE IN A MOMENT

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T A Artist ALEX PROBA paints a pool mural.

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A WOMAN OF HER WORDS Barbara Kruger’s direct — and inescapable — declarative phrases interrogating identity and power, writ large in Futura and Helvetica, were captivating viewers long before Twitter championed brevity. Now four decades of her groundbreaking conceptual work is on display at LACMA, in the most comprehensive presentation mounted in the last 20 years: “Thinking of You. I Mean Me. I Mean You.” (March 20 through July 17). From single-channel videos to eye-searing vinyl room wraps and soundscapes, photo and text collages to large-scale architectural interventions in public spaces, Kruger’s keen view of popular culture, mass media and advertising informs everything she produces. Also on display are recent explorations of the internet-accelerated flow of pictures and words compiled by the former Condé Nast graphic designer and UCLA professor emerita. Her aphorisms, including “Your body is a battleground” and “A corpse is not a customer,” continue to speak volumes. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323-857-6000; lacma.org. E.V.

From top: The artist's rendering of Untitled (That’s the way we do it), 2011, at the Art Institute of Chicago. Justice, 1997, by BARBARA KRUGER . Thinking of You. I Mean Me. I Mean You, 2019.

Bursting with abstract patterns, colors and textures, Studio Proba pieces are hard to miss. You’ll find the playful works of artist Alex Proba — who hails from Germany and splits her time between Portland and New York City — in the form of murals, tiles, sculptures and more across the globe. Still, there’s something about her distinct, dopamine-triggering aesthetic that makes it perfectly at home in sunny California, be it on the walls of Dropbox’s San Francisco HQ, Los Angeles’ Hotel June or, most recently, the interiors of private pools in Palm Springs. “The water brings my work to life,” Proba says. “It almost seems like it’s moving with us.” Expect to see more of her work around, including a secret project in May. “All I can say is it’ll be on Rodeo Drive,” she teases. studioproba.com. A.J.B.

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THE SECRET GARDEN When she acquired the 37-acre Cuesta Linda estate in Montecito in 1941, Polish opera singer Ganna Walska intended to turn the property into a retreat for Tibetan monks. But the monks never came, so over the next 43 years, the former singer, socialite and six-time bride transformed the majestic property into Lotusland — a living expression of her inimitable creativity and love for nature. Named after the sacred Indian lotus growing in one of the property’s ponds, the popular botanical garden is among the top 10 in the world. And it basically achieves cult status this April with the publication of Lotusland (Rizzoli New York, $60), a glorious 288-page tribute. With a foreword by architect Marc Appleton and photos by longtime C contributor Lisa Romerein, the hefty tome showcases many of the well-manicured landscape’s 3,400 types of plants and 35,000 specimens that have captivated visitors since the garden opened to the public in 1993. lotusland.com. D.N. LOTUSLAND pays homage to the lush Montecito botanical garden.

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BARBARA KRUGER: PHOTO COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND MARY BOONE GALLERY, NEW YORK (STATUE); PHOTO COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO (INSTALLATION); DIGITAL IMAGE COURTESY OF THE ARTIST (TEXT). LOTUSLAND: LISA ROMEREIN. MODERNISM WEEK DOG: NANCY BARON. MERCHANT EAST: KATE BERRY.

NORMAN ROCKWELL painted 321 Saturday Evening Post covers throughout his career.

PATRIOT'S PALETTE Lorem ipsum caption here.

MOD SQUAD Everything we love about Palm Springs — namely midcentury modern architecture, art, design and culture — finds its place in the sun with the highly anticipated return of Modernism Week (Feb. 17-27). This year’s edition includes hundreds of events across the Palm Springs area, from panel discussions and exhibitions to intimate tours of modern-design masterpieces like architect Albert Frey’s iconic Cree House, the Lautner Compound and Barry Berkus’ 1960 Park Imperial South modernist community. Designers and collectors also swoop in for the annual Palm Springs Modernism Show & Sale and the Palm Springs Modern Design Expo (which open simultaneously on Feb. 18) to be the first to see and shop the world-class collections of over 90 national and international vintage, decorative and fine-arts dealers. This year marks the first time that Burbank-based artist and designer Charles Hollis Jones will participate, showcasing new Lucite furniture designs alongside his iconic ’60s and ’70s creations. modernismweek.com. D.N.

The only thing possibly more American than apple pie is the paintings by Norman Rockwell depicting slices of life on the home front during World War II. In fact, the images from his “Four Freedoms” series remain some of the 20th century’s most indelible artistic expressions of patriotism. In celebration of the artist’s work — and the 80th anniversary of Santa Catalina Island’s time as a training center for the U.S. military — the Catalina Museum for Art & History presents “Norman Rockwell in the 1940s: A View of the American Homefront.” The exhibition opens March 5 and prominently features many of Rockwell’s recognizable Saturday Evening Post covers from that decade. “Norman Rockwell’s poignant portrayal of everyday heroism honors the American humanity and is a tribute to the island’s history and all the families who supported the efforts here and abroad,” adds Johnny Sampson, the museum’s deputy director and chief curator. 217 Metropole Ave., Avalon, 310-510-2414; catalinamuseum.org. D.N.

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From top: A parti poodle stands in front of a home designed by architect WILLIAM KRISEL in 1963. Inside the STILLMAN HOUSE.

MARVELOUS MERCH Denise Portmans and Sara Marlowe Hall, the mother-daughter duo behind Santa Monica’s Merchant (where designers like Tiffany Howell of Night Palm go for midcentury furniture, art, objects and vintage rugs), have a history of creating visionary spaces. Portmans, a former fashion stylist, raised Hall in an airy loft in Venice that was previously a Texaco station, and owned a vintage clothing store for two decades before eight years ago launching Merchant, which now has two awe-inspiring rental properties, an interior design arm and, most recently, a tony new location in Atwater Village packed with an edited array of apothecary, handmade ceramics, furniture, art and sculptures. “This area feels almost European — there’s a bakery, a record store, the usedbook shop,” says Hall, who is also an artist and lives a few blocks away. “It was important to find that kind of community and keep it going.” 3127 Glendale Blvd., L.A., 310-266-0572; merchantmodern.com. K.M. Like its sister store on the Westside, MERCHANT EAST supports local L.A. artists.

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David Webb

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DOUBLE DUTCH MOTHER WOLF in Hollywood.

FUNKE TOWN Evan Funke is obsessed. First it was sfoglia — hand-rolled sheets of pasta and all the shapes you can make with it — at Felix in Venice. Now, at Mother Wolf in Hollywood, the chef is zeroing in on the ancient Roman kitchen and its extraordinary simple dishes. First and foremost that means cacio e pepe, “a dish I go back to again and again purely because its simplicity belies the complexity hidden within,” he explains. Also on the menu: carciofi alla giudia (deepfried Violetta artichokes), supplì al telefono (deep-fried rice balls with guanciale and tomato) and oxtail meatballs in salsa verde. “I’m restraining my ego to the nth degree in order to tell the most authentic story,” says Funke wryly. Not to forget pizza. Wood-fired ovens turn out pizza tonda, “as thin and crispy as we can get, with toppings you’d find in any Roman pizzeria.” Set in the historic Art Deco Citizen News building in Hollywood, Mother Wolf seats 200 — which might make it just a bit easier to get a table at than Felix. 1545 Wilcox Ave., L.A., 323-410-6060; motherwolfla.com. S.I.V.

From top: A Burmese spread at THE DUTCHESS. The new all-day eatery is housed in a ’20s-era building.

When husband-and-wife restaurateurs Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan (Rustic Canyon, Cassia, Birdie G’s) moved their family to an Ojai ranch a few years ago, it seemed that a new restaurant was destined to follow. Their latest venture, The Dutchess, is a cafe, bakery and restaurant all in one, showcasing the best of local farms. Daytime, stop in for pastry chef Kelsey Brito’s sweet and savory oven-fresh goods or one of master baker Kate Pepper’s hearty loaves, all of which are made from local heirloom grains. Come evening, chef Saw Naing prepares his childhood Burmese cuisine with a California twist. “I can eat biryani [a rice dish] every single day,” he says with a laugh. “Everything I’m cooking is what I like to eat on a daily basis.” The classic Burmese tea-leaf salad is made with imported tea leaves that are then fermented in-house and mixed with cabbage, lettuce and greens from nearby farms. Naan, just like the ones he ate for breakfast in Rangoon, bakes in a searing-hot tandoor oven. He grinds the spices fresh for the garam masala blend he uses for tandoori chicken. 457 E. Ojai Ave., Ojai; 805-640-7987; thedutchessojai.com.

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Pozole of pork belly, aged kimchi and chile negro? Focaccia topped with kimchi marinara? How about blistered snap peas with everything-bagel seasoning? These are just a few of the eclectic dishes at DTLA’s latest Arts District deli. The menu at Yangban Society makes perfect sense, given that chef-owners Katianna and John Hong are both Korean Americans with extensive cooking experience in Michelin-starred kitchens. For their first solo project, the couple “wanted to do something that could include everyone with food that was authentic to us as Korean Americans,” says Katianna. “We’ve both always loved deli culture, whether it’s Jewish, Italian or Polish.” Take a number and pick up an array of cold banchan, salads and pickles or charcoalgrilled galbi. Items from the kitchen — that killer kimchi pozole, cold shredded rotisserie chicken, baked sea bream with chile-daikon paste — will change often. Upstairs is Super, the couple’s take on a typical Korean mini-mart, where they’ve gathered all their favorite drinks and snacks, both high and low. Add a few Korean skincare masks to your order and you’re good to go. 712 Santa Fe Ave., L.A.; 213-866-1987; yangbanla.com. S.I.V. YANGBAN SOCIETY 's egg salad, made with Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise and topped with trout roe.

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THE DUTCHESS (FOOD): ELISE FREIMUTH. YANGBAN SOCIETY: DYLAN + JENI.

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L.A. WOMAN Remembering Eve Babitz, chronicler of Los Angeles cool and the city’s curious creatures

ve Babitz was not famous in the way that people in Los Angeles are usually thought to be famous — which is to say, globally, and with a boxoffice score attached. But she was a pivotal person in the mythology of the city (the fun parts, anyway), and she would have told you that was even better. Babitz, who died in December at age 78, was a rare breed: a born observer who was also a scene-stealer; a genius writer who moonlighted as an It girl; the sunbaked bard of the city’s hedonistic creative class and its cavalcade of curious creatures; an inveterate Angeleno in love with her sexy, smoggy city. Babitz wrote in her 1974 essay collection Slow Days, Fast Company: The World, The Flesh, and L.A. that she got near enough to fame to “smell the stench of success,” and she wasn’t convinced: “It smelt like burnt cloth and rancid gardenias, and I realized that the

truly awful thing about success is that it’s held up all those years as the thing that would make everything all right.” Her father was a baroque musicologist and a violinist with the Twentieth Century Fox studio orchestra, and her mother was an artist; family friends were illustrious and generous and included the likes of Edward James, Eugene Berman, Jelly Roll Morton and Marilyn Horne. Igor Stravinsky was her godfather, and future starlets and the children of L.A.’s success stories peopled her classes at school. “I think I’m going to be an adventuress,” she wrote that she said as a child to her mother. “Is that all right?” It was. Babitz developed early, and she didn’t miss much. At 20, she wrote to the novelist Joseph Heller: “Dear Joseph Heller, I am a stacked eighteen-yearold blonde on Sunset Boulevard. I am also a writer. Eve Babitz.” That was it. That was the entire message. Heller introduced her to his editor. It didn’t result in anything much, but it sure set the tone.

Words by ALESSANDRA CODINHA 70

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PHOTO STRIP: COURTESY MIRANDI BABITZ. SUNSET BOULEVARD PORTRAIT: LOS ANGELES TIMES.

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All this might sound glamorous — and it was. But Babitz was an L.A. girl who grew up idolizing Marilyn Monroe and Colette: She saw the structures that glamour buffeted, the people who used it and the people who benefited from it, and she knew that glamour wasn’t the end of the story. She took beauty seriously as a topic. “In most high schools, you learn social things along with the rest of it,” she wrote in her first book, 1974’s Eve’s Hollywood. “In mine, I learned irrevocably that beauty is power and the usual bastions of power are powerless when confronted by beauty.” This was partly because her former classmates included bombshells Linda Evans, Tuesday Weld and Yvette Mimieux, and partly because, as she’d be the first to tell you, she wasn’t an idiot. Babitz understood the importance of surfaces, of scenes, of the right scripted line or styled shag, and her effect on the Los Angeles scene of the 1960s and ’70s went deep. She introduced Frank Zappa and Salvador Dalí, she styled Steve Martin in his first white suit, she designed rock album covers for Buffalo Springfield, the Byrds and Linda Ronstadt. And when she became a writer, in her late 20s, she also became a full-throated defender of L.A., laying waste to East Coast character assassinations of the city as a cultural wasteland. Babitz was published in titles like Vogue, Esquire and Rolling Stone, the latter with the help of Joan Didion, another Californian genius whose legacy is inexorably tied up with where she was from. (Though if Didion, in her extreme thinness, cardigans and perfect sentences, was aiming at surreptitiously blending into the background of the scenes she covered, the Rubenesque Babitz, in her short skirts and shag haircut, was the life of the party who also somehow managed to remember the most minute details the next day.) Babitz turned out a series of thinly veiled novels and essay collections — Eve’s Hollywood; Slow Days, Fast Company; Sex and Rage; I Used To Be Charming: The Rest of Eve Babitz — chronicling the beautiful and the powerful and the strange and the self-possessed with unfailing wit and shameless vigor, and nearly always with her beloved Los Angeles as the setting. “As Duchamp himself said,” she later wrote, “it is the

spectators who make the picture.” In her New York Times obituary, the paper of record notes that in her extensive dedication to Eve’s Hollywood, Babitz thanked “her orthodontist, her gynecologist, the Chateau Marmont, freeways, sour cream, Rainier ale (an aid to losing her virginity) and ‘the DidionDunnes, for having to be what I’m not.’” That last part was typical Babitz, a little catty, a lot heartfelt. It was also true: The Didion-Dunnes were respected East Coast-aligned journalists and intellectuals known for their laser-like precision. Babitz’s style was looser, broader, a party to which everyone was invited, if they could make it through the jungly murk and woozy miasma of the 1970s Los Angeles scene to where the action really was. And why not? “Because we were in Southern California — in Hollywood, even — there was no history for us,” she wrote in I Used To Be Charming. “There were no books or traditions telling us how we could turn out or what anything meant.” For a while that meant erotic entanglements that proved Babitz to be as seductive as the slow pace of the city she championed. She had taste: Some of these partners included Harrison Ford, Jim Morrison, Ed Ruscha, Paul Ruscha, Stephen Stills, Warren Zevon, Annie Leibovitz and Steve Martin. As Earl McGrath, former president of Rolling Stone Records, Continued on p.127

“It takes a certain kind of innocence to like L.A., Statement Babitz anyway” EVE BABITZ

EVE BABITZ on Sunset Boulevard in 1980. Above: I Used To Be Charming: The Rest of Eve Babitz (NYRB Classics, $19). Opposite: A young Babitz in a photo booth.

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T R E N D ALEXANDER McQUEEN Mini Four Ring bag, $1,390, and sunglasses, $315.

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Leila (left) wears BOTTEGA VENETA wrap dress, $2,250, bodysuit, $5,100, necklace, $920, and bag, $8,500. Emily wears BOTTEGA VENETA dress, $12,000, hat, $2,100, necklace, $2,850, and shoes, $2,500.

The mod style of the Sixties is back for the Roaring Twenties Netflix’s favorite funnyman, Dan Levy, has another hidden talent: designer For her next role, Zazie Beetz takes on the Spring/Summer collections

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Nick Fouquet and friends gather in the geodesicdome home he restored in Topanga Canyon California Style & Culture 75

Emily (left) wears DIOR dress, earrings and ring, prices upon request. Leila wears DIOR dress, bracelet and ring, prices upon request.

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High hemlines and graphic prints hail the return of the Sixties siren. Beehive optional Photography by GRAHAM DUNN Fashion Direction by KATIE MOSSMAN

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Leila (left) wears TOD’S dress, $2,475, shoes, $995, and bag, $2,245. DAVID WEBB earrings, $36,500. POMELLATO rings, from $2,360. Emily wears HERMÈS top, $5,750, skirt, $41,600, and shoes, $1,000. CARTIER earrings, $17,700, and bracelet, $21,500. Opposite: BOTTEGA VENETA dress, $12,000, hat, $2,100, and necklace, $2,850.

Feauture - Fashion

Emily (left) wears MIU MIU top, $1,430, sweater, $1,430, jacket, $4,550, skirt, $1,100, and belt, price upon request. DAVID WEBB earrings, $6,800. TIFFANY & CO. bracelet, $20,000. Leila wears MIU MIU top, $1,430, skirt, $845, and belt, price upon request. TIFFANY & CO. necklace, $62,000. DAVID WEBB ring, $27,000.

Feauture - Fashion

CHANEL top (worn as dress), $5,900, bag, $4,800, shoes, $1,275, cuffs, $1,600 each, and bracelets, $800 each. Opposite: GIVENCHY top, $1,190, and skirt, $1,190.

Feauture - Fashion

Leila (left) wears LOUIS VUITTON top, $4,450, and shorts, $1,390. ANNA KARIN KARLSSON sunglasses, $790. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS earrings, $27,100. DAVID WEBB ring, $57,000. Emily wears VALENTINO dress, $4,200. ROGER VIVIER bag, $3,350. ANNA KARIN KARLSSON sunglasses, price upon request. BUCCELLATI earrings, $12,000. BULGARI bracelet, $8,900.

Leila (left) XXXXXXXXXXXXXX wears ETRO top, and top,shorts, $1,590. $1,830/set,JENNY jacket,BIRD $1,810,earrings, and shoes, $80.$1,190. BUCCELLATI COURRÈGES necklace, $26,000. sunglasses, TIFFANY $375. & CO. bracelet, Opposite: $20,000. ROBERTO Emily wears CAVALLI ETRO top, dress, $1,050,$5,295, skirt, $870, and shorts, shoes, $1,190, and bag, $850. $575.BUCCELLATI JENNY BIRD earrings, $13,000. DAVID $115. VHERNIER WEBB ring,ring, $19,600. $19,850. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN pumps, $795.

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Leila (left) wears OSCAR DE LA RENTA top, $1,090, and skirt, $990. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI shoes, $995. ALEXANDER McQUEEN sunglasses, $315. BUCCELLATI bracelet, $41,000. Emily wears MAX MARA top, $550, skirt, $645, bandeau, $150, and bottoms, $395. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI shoes, $895. ALEXANDER McQUEEN sunglasses, $315. BUCCELLATI earrings, $4,300. DAVID WEBB bracelet, $43,000.

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MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION top, $590, and skirt, $970. Opposite: VERSACE dress, price upon request, shoes, $1,225, bag, $1,495, and ring, price upon request. Model LEILA GOLDKUHL at Next Management. Model EMILY ROESCH at Ford Models. Stylist assistants MELINETTE RODRIGUEZ and NIKI RAVARI. Hair by FRANKIE PAYNE at Opus Beauty using Oribe. Makeup by SILVER BRAMHAM using at Atelier Management Sarratt Beauty.

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HeFeauture did. After signing on Schitt’s - off Dan L Creek, Dan Levy has not only landed a new Netflix deal — the Canadian polymath is relaunching his eyewear brand with a distinctively L.A. point of view

Words by DAN ROOKWOOD Photography by BRAD TORCHIA Fashion Direction by MARYAM MALAKPOUR 90

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XXXXXXXXXXXXXX $1,590. SACAI blazer, price upontop, request. JENNY BIRD shirt, earrings, $80. LOUIS VUITTON $820. sunglasses, $375. Levy 'sCOURRÈGES own CARTIER watch, seen Opposite: CAVALLI throughout. All ROBERTO eyewear seen dress, $5,295, shorts,, throughout is D.L. and EYEWEAR $575. JENNY BIRD earrings, $135/pair. $115. VHERNIER ring, $19,850. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN pumps, $795.

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n the six allconsuming years that Dan Levy spent as co-creator, showrunner, producer, director, writer, sweater wearer and lead actor on the universally beloved sitcom Schitt’s Creek, there wasn’t much time for anything else. Like a social life. Or sleep. Some weeks, he says, between the 5 a.m. call times and all-night rewrites, he didn’t get more than eight hours’ sleep in seven days. Exhaustion was part of the reason he called an end to the show in 2020, even as it was at the very height of its late-blooming adulation. But also, he had other ideas. Plans. Projects. Plotlines. They filled up a journal he’d scribbled in during the odd moments when he wasn’t totally preoccupied with running the show. And he was desperate to act on them — and in some cases, in them. But first, he needed to settle somewhere. “I’ve relaxed a lot since I’ve found my place here,” says the 38-year-old, looking rested as he dials in from his house in Los Feliz — a place he can finally call home. “As a Canadian, I grew up spending a lot of time in Los Angeles and never liked it. I didn’t even know where to start. It’s so big. It’s intimidating. “[Then] I realized that I was looking at Los Angeles as this total experience, as opposed to loving the fact that L.A. is made up of small, incredible neighborhoods. “You can’t go about loving the city as a whole, you have to find your way into it through a neighborhood that suits you. At the time I was spending a lot of time on the Westside: My parents live in Pacific Palisades, and it wasn’t my vibe, it wasn’t my speed. “I eventually ended up having dinner at Little Dom’s in Los Feliz. And I remember sitting in that restaurant and thinking, OK, well, this feels like something I could get into, this feels more community based. It’s a full 180 from where I started.” As for life after Schitt’s Creek, Levy wasn’t exactly short of options after the final season’s historic clean sweep at the Emmys in 2020. In a single year, not only did the show become the first comedy to scoop every major award

direct and star in. Another pot on the boil is The Big Brunch, a food show for HBO Max that will give a platform to deserving but unsung and underrepresented cooks from all over the country. Levy is the creator, exec producer and host. Maybe — Schitt’s Creek reference alert! — he’ll finally learn how to fold in the cheese in the process. Levy is a wearer of many hats (metaphorically) and statement sweaters (literally). But he’s also famous for his frames. “I collect eyewear and knitwear,” he says. “I share that with my character on the show.” And right now he’s focusing on the recent relaunch of D.L. Eyewear, a company he started in his hometown of Toronto about 10 years ago. “But when the show happened, I realized that I didn’t have the energy or manpower to continue to build this business,” he explains. “The website was still up, we just stopped making more frames. But as the frames started to appear on the show, we were selling a pair, two pairs a day, pretty much for the six years that the show was on TV. … I realized when the show ended that there was an appetite to continue this brand, now that I have the time and the resources and the ability to put a team together to really do it properly.” Levy recently recruited highly respected eyewear designer Elena Doukas from Garrett Leight California Optical as president and co-creative director. The pair met a while back through a mutual friend, and it was love at short sight. “A few years ago, I was in Japan to meet some eyewear suppliers, and Dan happened to be in the country at the same time,” Doukas recalls. “We went vintage eyewear shopping for fun; both of us just loved exploring and trying things on. He explained to me the workings of D.L. Eyewear and how he wanted to relaunch the brand after putting it on hold for years.” “I’ve always loved fashion,” adds Levy. “I’ve always wanted to participate in it, in some capacity. I’m not a designer, I can’t draw, I’m very much aware of my limitations within

Levy’s philosophy? Feauture - Dan L “Try everything, nothing’s off limits”

(they left the night with nine total), but also Levy himself became the only individual ever to win Emmys for all major disciplines — producing, writing, directing and acting. Now that he finally has the time, his main problem has been deciding which opportunities to pursue first. “It’s been an incredibly inspiring couple of years,” he smiles. Netflix, the streamer that distributed Schitt’s Creek’s medicine to the masses when we needed it most, recently snapped up the multitalented multihyphenate on a rumored eight-figure deal to bring several of those ideas to life through his own unique lens. He’s currently writing a rom-com that centers on a gay love story, which he reportedly intends to

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Elena Doukas wears HYKE dress, $480. PRADA shoes, $1,150. Dan Levy wears ZEGNA XXX jacket, $3,695, and pants, $3,695. KUON sweater, $225. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO shirt, $620. CONVERSE sneakers, $60. Opposite: The words “See With Love” are engraved on every pair of D.L. EYEWEAR glasses.

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XXXXXXXXXXXXXX top, $1,590. JENNY BIRD earrings, $80. COURRÈGES sunglasses, $375. Opposite: ROBERTO CAVALLI dress, $5,295, and shorts, $575. JENNY BIRD earrings, $115. VHERNIER ring, $19,850. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN pumps, $795.

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SACAI blazer and pants, prices upon request. LOUIS VUITTON shirt, $820. Opposite: (Top left and bottom left) PAUL SMITH sweater, $595, shirt, $295, and pants, $420. LOEWE sneakers, $690. Levy 's own bracelet, seen throughout. (Middle right) ZEGNA XXX jacket, $3,695. KUON sweater, $225. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO shirt, $620. (Top right, middle left and bottom right) KUON sweater vest, $225. LOUIS VUITTON shirt, $820.

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Dan Levy wears PAUL SMITH sweater, $595, shirt, $295, and pants, $420. Elena Doukas wears PRADA shirt, $1,200. PRUNE GOLDSCHMIDT pants, $1,019. Opposite: Levy first launched D.L. Eyewear in 2013. Stylist assistant SARAH NEARIS. Grooming for Dan Levy by JOHNNY HERNANDEZ using Kevin Murphy and Dior Backstage. Hair and makeup for Elena Doukas by DIANE DUSTING at Opus Beauty using R+Co and Chanel Le Beiges.

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that world. But glasses were something that I felt like I had a really fundamental knowledge of — not just what I look for in glasses, but also how I want them to fit.” Levy has worn prescription lenses since the age of 8. “There was a time where I hated it,” he says. Back then they were for function, not fashion. “As a kid I had one pair of glasses that would get swapped out every three years or until I broke them. But being a kid that loved to express themselves through clothes, the glasses were the thing holding me back, because I remember being very young and trying on a sweater and thinking to myself, Well, this would look much better if I had a different pair of glasses, but I don’t.” When, “at the height of hipster culture” in the mid-2000s, he landed one of his first jobs in front of the camera — as a VJ for MTV Canada — statement glasses became part of his signature look. He recalls, with a raise of the Levy family eyebrow, a particularly bold pair of white Ray-Bans. “I would kill for the confidence of the guy that [wore them] on national television. It was a look.” His collection grew. “Kids who were watching MTV would stop me on the street and ask me where I got my glasses from. And at the time, I felt uncomfortable telling them to invest 400-plus dollars in a pair of Cutler and Gross or Tom Ford. Beautifully made glasses, but [not usually affordable] for young people.” So he cold-called a glasses manufacturer in Toronto to see if they’d help him develop his own range at a more democratic price. “And we’re still working with them today.” Levy estimates that he has around 100 pairs of glasses in his personal collection, some of which are too old to wear but freeze-frame specific chapters in his past, so they cannot be thrown away. “I like the idea of having times in my life documented by the glasses I was wearing,” he says. But he also has many current pairs in rotation. “I always just inherently like to have options. I never like to be in a situation where I don’t have a pair of glasses that can match either a mood or an occasion.” Frames for fashion as well as function. At a very reasonable $135 a pop, the range is inclusive in terms of price as well as gender and age. “There’s no gender assigned to any of the frames, and when we photograph them, we photograph them on everybody, because for us, you should feel free to try on any shape you want. It feels kind of silly in the optical world — and generally

“I’ll continue to tell stories Feauture - Dan L about people that are not in the spotlight” DAN LEVY

speaking — to put parameters on what people should or shouldn’t wear.” Levy’s philosophy: “Be fearless in terms of what you try. Try everything, nothing’s off limits.” Sounds a little bit like the famous “I like the wine, not the label” analogy from Schitt’s Creek, I say. “I mean, a little bit, yeah! There’s a lot of rules that somehow have crept into our society that have stopped a lot of people from living authentic and free and inspiring lives. I feel like anything we can do to kind of remove those barriers for people...”

Levy and Doukas shot their recent Fall/ Winter collection on a diverse group of teachers, as a way of honoring their contribution through the pandemic. Each one shared what it means to be a teacher and what inspires them to teach. “We thought, why not celebrate the teachers who have been on the front lines of this whole thing and have gone to extraordinary lengths to continue to educate this generation of kids?” Levy says. Each pair of D.L. Eyewear is engraved with the purpose-led brand’s ethos “See With Love” inside the right arm: a universal inscription with every prescription. “It’s been the motto from the very beginning, and I think it’s just a nice life philosophy, a little reminder to just be nice to your fellow humans,” explains Levy. That mission also comes through in the company’s give-back commitment through donations to LISC (the Local Initiatives Support Corporation). “It was important for Dan to be able to help other small businesses grow, and this organization does great work in creating economic opportunities for businesses in underserved neighborhoods,” says Doukas. “If you follow the brand, I think you feel Dan’s voice in a lot of what we put out,” she continues. “‘See With Love’ serves as a mantra for how we strive to operate, and I’ve seen firsthand how our community has embraced this Continued on p.127

Seven years ago, Zazie Beetz was broke and waiting tables. Now she is a bona fide scene-stealer who can turn her hand to any genre, and there is no stopping her

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Words by MARTHA HAYES Photography by JACK WATERLOT Fashion Direction by PETRA FLANNERY 98

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO dress, $3,800. PIAGET earrings, $7,250. BUCCELLATI bracelet, $130,000. BULGARI rings, from $3,950.

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SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO jumpsuit, $1,790. DAVID WEBB earrings, $8,800. CARTIER bracelet, $86,500, and ring, $6,750. Opposite: DOLCE & GABBANA blazer, $3,595, and skirt, $995.

Feauture - Zazie

FENDI dress $4,700. DAVID WEBB necklace, price upon request. Opposite: LOEWE dress, price upon request. LANA earrings, $4,880. POMELLATO ring, $5,400.

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BALENCIAGA dress, $5,950. LANA earrings, $4,880. DAVID WEBB bracelet, price upon request.

Feauture - Zazie

RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION dress, $2,790. BULGARI bracelets, from $17,100. Opposite: VALENTINO dress, $12,500. BUCCELLATI earrings, $12,500. DAVID WEBB bracelet, $43,000. POMELLATO ring, $7,800.

Feauture - Zazie

t’s not unusual for an actor to have a plan B, but Zazie Beetz has mapped out a plan B, C and D. “Recently I was looking into med school,” confesses the 30-year-old, who rose to fame in Donald Glover’s Golden Globe award-winning TV comedy Atlanta. “I’m obsessed with childbirth; it’s a fascinating transition of identity. I really want to get involved in women’s health in general. … I’m also very crafty and I like to paint. … And I love languages. I take classes in my free time.” Hanging out in her New York apartment in a maroon hoodie, her hair piled on top of her head and her face free of makeup, the German-American actor continues. “I feel like I’m not great at anything, I’m OK at a lot — which isn’t a great feeling,” she says with a nervous laugh. “I’m a jack-of-alltrades, master of none.” If her burgeoning film career is anything to go by, Beetz won’t need a backup plan. “Jack-of-all-trades” may be a stick she beats herself with, but in Hollywood it’s serving her rather well. With scene-stealing performances in the box-office superhero smash Deadpool 2 (2018), the Oscar-winning psychological thriller Joker (2019) and the Netflix Western The Harder They Fall (2021) — as well as her 2018 Emmy nomination — Beetz is carving out a name for herself as a performer who can successfully turn her hand to any genre. Not bad for someone who was broke and waiting tables for a year before being cast in Atlanta in 2015. This spring, season three of the fanfavorite show — which follows protagonist Earnest “Earn” Marks (Glover) as he manages his rapper cousin in the Atlanta music scene after dropping out of college — premieres on FX and Hulu. For Beetz, returning to the place where it all began for a “wonderful reunion” with a group of people who “feel very much like family” was a life-affirming experience. Starting out in the role of Vanessa “Van” Keefer (Earn’s ex-girlfriend and the mother of his child) in her early 20s, Beetz recalls “having so much anxiety and being so scared.” But now, “coming back to the show I was like, ‘I’ve really grown! I’m so much more comfortable in myself and less fearful.’” Beetz is very open about her anxiety. What you see is what you get. In fact,

she is as open and engaged in person as she is on social media, where she regularly shares her passions (she records in-depth conversations about climate change) and innermost thoughts (on everything from periods to her first kiss). She’s currently busy writing scripts with her actor-writer partner of eight years, David Rysdahl. “It’s very outside of my comfort zone but I want to push myself,” she says. “I don’t like that feeling — nobody does — but I’m trying to get used to it, to build my confidence and expand.” The goal? “I’m trying to break out of what is expected of me,” she explains. “I think I’m often seen as this strong, grounded individual, and so I get cast in strong-women parts, which is great. But I also have a lot of vulnerability that I want to explore.” Most recently, she was inspired by Maggie Gyllenhaal’s The Lost Daughter. “I’m not a mother, but I find that journey interesting. I read a quote that said, ‘Once you become a mother, you’re no longer the picture, you’re the frame,’ and I was like, ‘What?! That’s ridiculous.’ So I’m enjoying exploring womanhood and how we can be all these different things at the same time even if

they’re contradictory and counterintuitive.” Does she feel that opportunities in Hollywood have changed for the better in the last decade? “I firmly believe that my career wouldn’t have been possible 10 years ago,” she points out. “Would a TV show like Atlanta have been made? I don’t think so. Changing times have allowed me to have the career I have right now.” Is there a trajectory in the industry she’d like to emulate? “I find Zendaya’s ambition very interesting. I can be very guided by fear, and I really don’t want to be. I want to go out there and throw stuff at the wall but it takes effort and emotional acrobatics to do that. So I really respect the grace with which she seems to be going at it. I draw a lot of inspiration from that.” Beetz credits Rysdahl and her manager for their mentorship — “My default is to think I’m not good enough, but that is not their default for me, and so I appreciate that!” — along with her parents, a Black American social worker and a German cabinetmaker, who have supported her since acting was just an after-school hobby. “I find it special that my parents didn’t ever challenge that part of me or make me do something that was going to be lucrative or successful,” she says. For high school, they sent her to New York’s Fiorello H. LaGuardia performing-arts school (where the 1980 cult film Fame was set). “They were beautiful in making me feel that things were possible.” Growing up between her native Berlin and New York’s Washington Heights, and spending childhood summers with her German grandparents, laid the foundation for a command of languages (as well as speaking German, she has a bachelor’s degree in French). “I’m so glad my dad spoke German to me at home, because at no cost to me I was able to get another language out of it,” Beetz quips. Today, she feels as much a German citizen as she does a New Yorker — anything other than a Hollywood star. “I haven’t spent enough time in L.A., but I find the sun kind of aggro,” she laughs. When she does visit, she eschews fancy hotels in West Hollywood for Airbnbs and samples the eclectic eateries the Eastside has to offer. “I enjoy Kismet for Mediterranean and Speranza for Italian. I used to love Porridge and Puffs [now shuttered]. I took a pickling class there once.” Of course she did; she’s a jack-of-all-trades. And master of anything she puts her mind to. X

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“I’ve really grown. I’m more comfortable in myself. Less fearful” ZAZIE BEETZ

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GUCCI jacket, $3,600, pants, $1,300, and top, $5,800. BUCCELLATI necklace, $29,500. DAVID WEBB rings, from $25,500. Hair by MILES JEFFRIES at The Wall Group using Oribe. Makeup by KARA YOSHIMOTO BUA at A-Frame Agency using Chanel. Nails by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty using Chanel Le Vernis.

Feauture - Zazie

Feauture - Nick F

As he moves his brand into ready-to-wear, the quintessentially Californian designer who made his name with hats kicks back with his friends and neighbors in his home in the Santa Monica Mountains Words by KELSEY McKINNON Photography by WE ARE THE RHOADS Fashion Direction by REBECCA RUSSELL 110

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Milliner NICK FOUQUET stands outside his 1970s geodesic-dome home in Topanga Canyon. Opposite: Fouquet (center) in good company with friends (from left) Zen Nishimura, girlfriend Sarni Rogers, Tashia Fierce Roberts and Max Robinson — all wearing pieces from his collections. 111

The designer plays cards with friends in the light-filled living room. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Exploring the wilds of the backyard. The kitchen features tiles from HEATH CERAMICS. A Fall/Winter 2022 hat. In the loft, he lounges on a custom STAHL + BAND sofa. Relaxing by the freeform pool. Neighbor Nishimura and his daughter, Alchemy. Fouquet in Spring/Summer 2022. LUCCHESE x NICK FOUQUET loafers. The LA Royal Palm hat from his Jungle Illuminations Spring/Summer 2022 line. The Window Pane hat, from the same collection.

Feauture - Nick F

hen milliner Nick Fouquet was looking for a new place to hang his hat, his only requirement was that it have high ceilings. His search led to a rare geodesic dome deep in Topanga Canyon with a three-story cupola that certainly fit the bill. Never mind that the structure bears a striking resemblance to a classic chapeau, with its soaring arch and wraparound decks — to Fouquet, it felt like the tree house he had always fantasized about. Perched on the deck in a linen Charvet shirt with a rainbow beanie in hand, the 39-year-old designer muses, “Remember those childhood dreams that you had when you were little, about living in a tree house, Swiss Family Robinson–style? I was like, ‘When I’m older, I’m gonna have that.’” Spend a few minutes with Fouquet and it becomes almost unthinkable that he ever lived in a square instead of a circle, confined by four walls and 90-degree angles like most people. He says he’s always been a bit unpredictable. “If someone’s like, ‘Oh, purple is gonna be the

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“The house was Flintstones. I said, ‘We gotta make it Jetsons’” NICK FOUQUET

new color next year,’ I’m like, oh really? Cool. I’ll make sure not to do purple in anything,” he says with a laugh. “I’ll say, ‘Guys, we’re gonna do yellow.’” Raised in southwest France, Fouquet got a degree in environmental science and sustainable development before following in his father’s footsteps as a professional model (his father, Bernard Fouquet, fronted campaigns for Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger). He bounced between South America, Europe, Australia, New York and Colorado before landing in Los Angeles in 2009, where he started his eponymous business out of his garage in Venice. Fouquet revitalized the ancient craft with an artistic approach: Sustainable beaver-felt fedoras are shaped and distressed by hand, then variously patchworked, embroidered, splattered with bleach or tie-dyed, before he adds painterly grosgrain ribbons, charms, chains or feathers and his signature single matchstick. He quickly garnered a cult following with celebrity clients ranging from LeBron James and David Beckham to Madonna and Cara Delevingne. In recent years, he’s collaborated

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Feauture - Nick F

Fouquet and friends overlook the expansive canyon behind his serene property, where California oak trees abound.

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“Clients would say, ‘I have the hat, now what’s the rest?’” NICK FOUQUET

“I said I’d never do it. Everyone does that and there’s too much of it. And then at one point I said, ‘I just don’t like anything out there,’” he remembers. At the same time, clients had been asking for years for a more stylistic experience. “They would always say, ‘Cool. I have the hat, now what’s the rest of the look?’” This spring, those questions are answered in his second collaboration with Italian designer Federico Curradi of men’s ready-to-wear, alongside a highly anticipated partnership with Lucchese, the iconic American footwear company, that includes unisex hats, scarves and reimagined cowboy boots — think ’70s-inspired black-cherry croc loafers and suede boots embroidered with a golden desert sunset. “The jelly to the peanut butter of what I do is cowboy boots, in a way,” Fouquet says. And come fall, he’s putting all his cards on the table with the launch of a full in-house RTW line. Pairing his dueling sensibilities — the rugged American West and the romance of southwestern France — the 80-piece menswear collection is a panoply of autumnal plaids, shearling coats, denim on denim, oversize knits and old-school corduroy trousers fit for a cultured cowboy (although many of the pieces are meant to be unisex). With the staggering amount of creativity that’s pouring out from the Venice studio, along with regular travel to Aspen and Italy (where the RTW line is being produced), Fouquet’s tranquil retreat in the canyon begins to make even Continued on p.127

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with European houses including Borsalino, Rochas and Givenchy and upgraded to a gallery-like boutique and workshop on Abbot Kinney in 2019. Last year he opened a seasonal shop in Aspen that fortuitously came with a tiny apartment above it. (“I can’t believe I’m one of those people that are like, ‘I like Aspen better in the summer than the winter.’ It sounds so bougie, but it’s so dope. I have a dirt bike and rip around town.”) Fouquet’s Spring/Summer 2022 hat collection, called Jungle Illuminations, is chockablock with tropical, Peter Beard-esque

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flora and fauna. Fouquet’s father stars in the campaign alongside Fouquet’s friend, legendary actor Anjelica Huston. (Fouquet and Huston happened to both be staying at their mutual friend Jimmy Buffett’s house in the Hamptons over the summer when the idea took root. Fouquet and Buffet are longtime friends from Palm Beach, Fla., where Fouquet’s mother lives and where he also spent a lot of time growing up.) While the pandemic forced many to slow down, Fouquet did the opposite, deciding it was the time to expand into ready-to-wear.

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Rogers and Fouquet stand atop the glass railing of their three-story abode. Opposite: The former model sporting looks from his Spring/Summer 2022 ready-to-wear collection, as friends repose on the home’s wraparound decks.

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A carefree day at Fouquet’s retreat in the Santa Monica Mountains. Pieces from the designer’s past collections have been carefully integrated into the design of the home. Of note: An aquatic textile used in a past season covers the steps of a spiral staircase. Hair by BERENZ using Oribe. Makeup by DIANE DUSTING using Chanel Les Beiges. Special thanks to DONNI.

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CHRISTY TURLINGTON BURNS: PAMELA HANSON.

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The Painter’s Room at CLARIDGE’S in London, designed by BRYAN O’SULLIVAN STUDIO.

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Travel

E R TIME FOR AN UPGRADE

Just in time for the return of international travel, the world’s favorite fashion hotels have been smartening themselves up JUSTIN DESOUZA

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Room 208, decorated by MARIO SCHIFANO, at GALLERIA VIK MILANO. Below: The LE BRISTOL PARIS colonnade.

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GALLERIA VIK MILANO

Travel

What could be more Milanese than culture, art and fashion colliding in one place? A hotel housed in the most jaw-droppingly beautiful luxury mall in the world, perhaps? With its vaulted arches and central glass dome, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II was built for the king of the same name in the late 1800s. Today it is the first city location from the Uruguay-born Vik Retreats hotel group, which gained popularity over the past decade or so with its art-focused properties in South America. Galleria Vik Milano has 89 individually designed rooms with stucco Veneziano walls, site-specific installations and artworks sourced from around the globe. Across the hotel you’ll find old and new peacefully coexisting, whether that’s handpainted frescoes and a cast of Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker in the lobby or the rooftop pizzeria, offering red and white varieties that are woodfired the Neapolitan way. There’s no better place to pick up some new-season Prada, since you can even pop over in your slippers. galleriavikmilano.com.

LE BRISTOL PARIS Right on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and within skipping distance of the flagships lining Avenue Montaigne — you couldn’t plot a better location for a fashion hotel, and this one has completed a decade-long renovation just in time for its upcoming centennial. During the pandemic, work was underway on updating rooms and

suites as well as a new courtyard garden, entrusted to renowned landscape designer Arabella Lennox-Boyd, who has selected narcissi and tulips for springtime and white bougainvillea and pink roses for summer — all blooms native to Paris. What really makes this hotel unique, though, is the introduction of three on-site ateliers: There’s a cheese-aging cellar, an in-house chocolate factory and even a flour mill in the basement so that Michelin-three-starred chef Éric Fréchon has fresh pastries, pralines and perfectly ripe cheeses for his diners. Deserving of a final mention is Socrate, the resident white cat, who’ll greet you in the lobby with a haughty meow as if he owns the place. oetkercollection.com.

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Guests of THE CARLYLE in New York can now stock up on their skincare essentials at the new LA MAISON VALMONT. Right: Le Jardin Français at Le Bristol Paris.

THE CARLYLE, NEW YORK

A new courtyard garden features blooms native to Paris including Travelnarcissi and tulips

LE BRISTOL PARIS LE JARDIN FRANÇAIS: CLAIRE COCANO. LE BRISTOL PARIS COLONNADE: ÉRIC DENISET. CLARIDGE’S: JAMES McDONALD.

In the historic Upper East Side, with the flagships of Madison Avenue on its doorstep, The Carlyle has delighted native New Yorkers with its unbeatable hospitality, moreish martinis and live jazz for decades. Now it has a spoiling spa to match its illustrious Bemelmans Bar. Opened at the end of last year, the Valmont Spa uses cosmetics by the Swiss brand of the same name, which has offered antiaging treatments since 1985. Its creams are made with ingredients sourced in the Alps, and the wellness offerings, primarily focusing on rejuvenation, include a 90-minute treatment featuring an Oxylight for the face and a regenerating collagen mask that leaves harried faces feeling nourished and beaming. Moreover, there is a new La Maison Valmont boutique next door, with art on the walls by Sol LeWitt and custom Murano glass light fixtures, where you can stock up on the cult skin products you just experienced, not to mention fragrances from sister brand Storie Veneziane. rosewoodhotels.com.

A one-of-a-kind Mayfair Suite at CLARIDGE’S.

CLARIDGE’S, LONDON It’s all go at Claridge’s, the Mayfair hotel that has seen fashion greats including John Galliano and Diane von Furstenberg conceive everything from its suites to its Christmas trees, and counts Anna Wintour and Carolina Herrera among its regulars. But while work continues on its basement spa, it has recently opened a new cocktail bar, new suites and an art gallery. The Painter’s Room arrives under the hand of Bryan O’Sullivan Studio, with a centerpiece hewn out of pink onyx and a wall mural and stained-glass window by British artist Annie Morris. Order a Saint Remy — a spin on a martini inspired by Van Gogh’s Almond Blossom — and a waiter will deliver it wearing a jacket in the trademark blue of the original street-style photographer Bill Cunningham. The plays on the hotel’s Art Deco design heritage continue upstairs in the sumptuous new Mayfair Suites — all mirrors and marble, with scallop-backed furniture, also by Bryan O’Sullivan. And the ArtSpace, which opened in time for the Frieze art fair late last year, will return again this spring with a new show following the success of an inaugural Damien Hirst exhibition. claridges.co.uk. X

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JEREMY SCOTT and AGATHA RELOTA LUCZO.

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GLOSSY POSSE Glossier, the beloved digital-first beauty company, recently opened permanent digs in West Hollywood just blocks from their former spot on Melrose Place. The expansive space was created to do more than just sell products. “Through design, we want to foster connections, play and discovery,” explains Adriana Deleo, Glossier’s deputy creative director. The amphitheater-style communal seating, fully mobile display units, even a surrealist fountain designed by the Haas Brothers — all foster a new kind of in-person shopping experience. Next up: Glossier’s newest product drop, After Baume, a moisturizer for very dry skin or anyone whose moisture barrier needs some serious love. 8523 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323-978-0550; glossier.com. K.A.

From top: The flagship’s facade is ensconced behind GLOSSIER’s logo in giant pink letters. A gigantic prop of Boy Brow grooming pomade.

Beauty

Launched just over two years ago, luxury skincare brand Furtuna Skin, known for potent, farm-to-face formulations, is staking a claim. “The interplay between fashion and beauty — when the two collide — is when the magic happens,” says California-based co-founder Agatha Relota Luczo. In collaboration with Luczo’s longtime friend Jeremy Scott, Moschino’s creative director, the premiere of Furtuna’s keepsake Collector’s Edition sets joins artistry with high-performance natural skincare. First up? A limited-edition set ($310) including four of their bestsellers — Micellar Essence, Face & Eye Serum, Biphase Moisturizing Oil and Replenishing Balm — and a furry pink bag, designed by Scott to be worn as a clutch. We could see the next drop as early as late spring, as well as new products to lust after. furtunaskin.com. K.A.

When Gwyneth Paltrow, Jessica Seinfeld and Amy Schumer love a burgeoning wellness brand so much they invest their own money, people take notice. Meet Kroma Wellness — a five-day premium cleanse, focused on nourishment over starvation. “We have a perfectly balanced macronutrient profile of protein, fats and fiber while staying low carb and very low sugar,” explains founder Lisa Odenweller. “Most everything is powder-based, comprised of over 150 superfoods including maca, turmeric, ginger, collagen and spirulina.” There are numerous products in the lineup, from porridge to broths, elixirs to lattes, and fan-favorite OMG cookie butter. “We help guide you through one of three protocols — Lean, Lifestyle and Active.” kromawellness.com. K.A. KROMA WELLNESS 5-Day Reset, from $395.

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KROMA: AMBER D’AMBROSIO.

SUPER POWDERS

CHANEL No. 1 de Chanel lip and cheek balm, $45.

DESERT DELIGHTS We Care Spa, situated adjacent to Palm Springs in the heart of the California desert, is about connecting with your personal power via its life-changing protocol of fasting, colonics, yoga, meditation and spa treatments. The go-to spot for high-profile names like Heidi Klum, Tom Ford and Oprah, the institution, founded in 1986, has had a major glow-up. Renovations include the addition of Executive Suites (featuring a circadian light system to regulate natural sleep cycles), a new pool and lounge area, an outdoor juice bar, a yoga studio, a steam room and a state-of-the-art gym. “It’s all about thriving,” says president Susan Lombardi. “I wanted our clients to enjoy the best experience in a luxury environment.” From $1,525. 18000 Long Canyon Road, Desert Hot Springs, 760-251-2261; wecarespa.com. K.A.

FIRST AMONG EQUALS Beauty

From top: Every WE CARE SPA treatment is designed to be an aid to detoxification. The 20-acre campus features several healing installations.

With the launch of No. 1 de Chanel, the luxury brand has emerged as a force in the clean and sustainable beauty conversation. This new collection of products is their first to span all beauty categories: fragrance, skincare and makeup. The hero ingredient? Camellia. Not the white variety synonymous with Chanel, but the lesser-known red camellia, which contains a high concentration of protocatechuic acid, a powerful antioxidant that helps with the appearance of wrinkles and promotes radiant, glowing skin. There are nine items in the line, including face cream in a refillable jar, a fragrance mist, a powder-to-foam cleanser, a revitalizing serum, lip and cheek balms and a buildable foundation. Exclusively available at chanel.com and ulta.com. K.A.

PALATIAL FACIALS In 1923, Charlie Chaplin commissioned a cluster of storybook-style bungalows in Hollywood. Today, one of his dreamt-up spaces has been transformed into an exclusive beauty destination. “Studio Flora Mirabilis feels like stepping back in time,” founder Jordan LaFragola says. Light from leaded-glass windows pours onto the Saltillo tile floors as LaFragola performs her signature facial (from $200), focusing on intense facial massage. The treatment uses her plant-based Flora Mirabilis Face Oil, made from a combination of luscious natural oils. 1328 1/2 N. Formosa Ave., L.A., 323-451-9177; floramirabilis.com. K.A.

FLORA MIRABILIS Face Oil, $120, is housed in a spill-proof, opaque glass bottle with a hand-finished wood cap.

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The California-bred brand uses only locally sourced, natural ingredients. Bottom, from left: Founder RASHEEN SMITH. FLEXPOWER Soothe Lotion with arnica and CBD, $52.

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How one homegrown company is changing the pain-relief game

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hen the elite wellness retreat Golden Door decides a range of wellness products is worthy of its illustrious clientele, it’s a sign that that brand has stepped beyond the locker room and been welcomed into the inner circle of the wellness community. Flexpower, founded in 2000 by former Cal Berkeley athlete Rasheen Smith, has seen its reach grow from professional athletes and trainers to anyone looking to embrace a brighter, healthier, more actively engaged life. Originally formulated to steer fitness enthusiasts away from oral pain medication, Flexpower is now embraced by people of all ages and

lifestyles. It focuses on active, natural, topical substances to treat pain at its source, using liposome technology to deliver ingredients deep into muscles and joints. Not to mention it’s the only pain-relief cream that is scent-free — no heavy, medicinal odor. “We are both proactive and reactive pain relief. Most pain relief is geared towards relieving pain while you’re experiencing it (which we do), but Flexpower Warm and Flexpower Soothe also prepare your joints and muscles pre-activity to help you prevent ever experiencing pain in the first place,” explains Smith. The Soothe line of creams and bath salts is formulated with all-natural ingredients, featuring age-old remedies like arnica, CBD and eucalyptus, blended in a proprietary manner that maximizes their effects. There’s also a healthy dose of vitamin E in every product to ensure well-nourished skin. And now they’ve revamped their bath salts to include 50% more natural oils. Flexpower is committed to making feeling good an active, conscious and easy choice for everyone. “The feel-good ethos comes from our sunny California roots, and it infuses not only everything we make, but how we make it,” says Smith, whose line uses only sustainably sourced local ingredients, and recycled and reusable packaging and materials. “We’re not here to tell you what to do or how to do it, we just want to help you feel good doing whatever you love doing.” flexpower.com. 2

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THAYER GOWDY

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Continued from p.71

WE ARE THE RHOADS

L.A. WOMAN famously put it: “In every young man’s life there is an Eve Babitz. It’s usually Eve Babitz.” And so it is not altogether surprising that despite her myriad talents as a writer and a visual artist, for a long while her most indelible cultural output was a Julian Wasser portrait of her nude, playing chess with Marcel Duchamp. (She later said she posed for the photo to piss off her married lover, Ferus Gallery founder Walter Hopps, who hadn’t invited her to a scene-y Duchamp opening.) She got an agent, she moved to New York, she worked a little, she came back. Nowhere made as much sense for her as L.A. “It takes a certain kind of innocence to like L.A., anyway,” she wrote in Eve’s Hollywood. “It requires a certain plain happiness inside to be happy in L.A., to choose it and be happy here.” And later, in Slow Days, Fast Company: “I long for vast sprawls, smog, and luke nights: L.A. It is where I work best, where I can live, oblivious to physical reality.” Obliviousness wasn’t always a positive. After a fallow period in the late ’80s and early ’90s, she nearly burned to death in 1997 when she accidentally dropped a lit cherry-flavored Tiparillo on her lap while driving. The effects of the third-degree burns, which covered her body from the waist down, cemented her desire to avoid the limelight. But all the while, she was being rediscovered by a new generation, championed largely by young women who recognized something fierce in the funny girl with the great rack and the beautiful prose, the sex symbol who refused to be a sex object rather than the subject of her own story. “It used to be men who liked me,” she later joked to Vanity Fair; “now it’s only girls.” Babitz remained mostly in retreat for the remainder of her life, though she released a few more essays, most notably the titular piece from I Used To Be Charming in 2019, in which she detailed the cigarillo accident and her recovery in her own trademark fashion, a tale both wryly recounted and brutally gruesome, unfurling before the glowing backdrop of Los Angeles. It wasn’t quite the Hollywood ending that anyone would have hoped for, but it fit some versions of the script: A writer uniquely steeped in the champagne fizz of Hollywood knew what things were like when the bubbles went flat. (She had often said — and at least once written — that she was surprised to live past age 25, let alone 50.) “That strange mixture that’s

always been a major part of Hollywood — selfenchantment mingled with the ever-present fear of total disaster (earthquakes, fires, random murders) — lies beneath the physical reality of Hollywood,” she wrote in 1993’s Black Swans, “which sometimes looks too good to be true, as though we must have sold our souls to the devil for all those swimming pools and orange trees and young hopefuls basking in the sun.” She wouldn’t have had it any other way. X Continued from p.97

WHO FRAMED DAN LEVY? force of positivity. On our social channels, customers help one another with launch details, as frames have been known to sell out fast. I’ve even seen a customer buy frames for another customer who couldn’t afford them.” You don’t need glasses to be able to see the unifying vision behind Levy’s different ventures, be they Hollywood rom-coms, food shows or eyewear. “See With Love” is the lens through which he views the world and transmits his creative output. “What I learned through Schitt’s Creek is that the stories that you tell really have the potential to impact people in far more fundamental and meaningful ways than I had ever thought,” he says. “That’s not to say that everything I do has to come with this mandate of changing people’s lives, because I don’t think you can intend to set out to do that. But I hope I’ll continue to tell stories about people that are not necessarily front and center in the spotlight, that we can continue to expand conversations and open people’s eyes to the fact that there are a lot of stories to be told that are not just about one thing.” X

Runover

footprint. As Fouquet puts it, “When I first got it, the house was Flintstones. And I said, ‘We gotta make it Jetsons.’” Today, the clean, intimate space is filled with ceramics, books and Post-it notes. Fouquet shares the home with his girlfriend, Sarni Rogers; his sister lives down the street; and neighbors have become friends who drop by for coffee and hang out on the custom sofas by Jeffery Molter from Stahl + Band (who happens to be Fouquet’s neighbor on Abbott Kinney). In the downstairs master bedroom, the headboard, bench and cushions are swathed in a psychedelic garden fabric from Fouquet’s spring collection last year. Likewise, steps on the spiral staircase are covered in an aquatic textile used in a past season. The barometer installed at the top of the banister is further evidence of Fouquet’s playfulness. “I feel like a big kid. If I could have put in a slide at the top of the dome or a fireman’s pole, I would have,” he says. Sitting down on a bench where he does his daily meditation, overlooking the rolling hills that extend for miles beyond his property, Fouquet says, “I had a client come into the shop recently and we were talking about meditation. I told her I always come and sit here for 10 or 15 minutes and close my eyes. Then she blew my mind, she said, ‘Why close your eyes? Why don’t you look at the birds and clouds?’ I was like, ‘Oh my God, she’s right.’ Why close your eyes when this is so beautiful?” X NICK FOUQUET and friends bask in the natural light of his Topanga Canyon home.

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A DAY IN TOPANGA WITH NICK FOUQUET more sense. The mini compound includes the main 1,800-square-foot dome, an ebonized Shou Sugi Ban pool house and a freeform pool, a stand-alone infrared sauna, a galvanized surf shed and quiet cobbled paths that wind through lemon and oak trees. Like his business, he saw the house as an opportunity to express himself. He posted up in the pool house for nearly two years while he modernized and expanded on the original

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ZEN

M O M E N T S

D I

Favorite gym/class? I like to work out with Gregg Miele at Heart & Hustle. Favorite spa? Treatment? Carasoin Day Spa and Skin Clinic for the most incredible facials by Lena Bratschi and lymphatic drainage from Detox by Rebecca Faria. Where do you take visiting friends? The San Vicente Bungalows — a cool, cozy private club in the heart of West Hollywood. It gives you the quintessential L.A. feeling.

MONIQUE LHUILLIER The dress designer to Hollywood’s finest celebrates her eponymous label’s 25th anniversary

Where do you live? Los Angeles. Where do you feel most zen? I feel most zen in my bathtub with relaxing music, lighting and GOOP bath salts. Favorite park/hike? Westridge Trailhead — it’s a challenging hike with spectacular views. I feel like I can get a great workout and I love being outdoors. Favorite beach? Broad Beach in Malibu is a further-out, remote beach. I like to take long walks and

take in the views. It is one of my favorite spots. The sunsets are spectacular!

S C O V E R I E S

What’s in your bathroom cabinet? The Cream by Augustinus Bader, Active Botanical Serum by Vintner’s Daughter, Hyaluronic Serum by Dr. Barbara Sturm, body scrub by C & The Moon, Magic Myst by In Common and Dry Texturizing Spray by Oribe.

Zen Moment

Favorite relaxing getaway? I love going up to Montecito. It’s such a cozy town, with amazing dining, antique shops and beaches. You can feel time slowing down.

Favorite health-food fix? I just finished the Kroma Reset 5-day program. I felt great after and never felt deprived. Do you follow a diet? I don’t follow a specific diet but I stay away from dairy, desserts, processed foods and sugar. I make sure to drink a lot of water throughout the day, and intermittently fast. Favorite hotel? The Beverly Hills Hotel is iconic. It’s in the heart of Beverly Hills with fantastic service, a great pool and the legendary Polo Lounge.

What do you wear to relax? I love to wear a tank top and cutoffs with a cardigan and comfy slides. What do you wear to work out? I love Alo Yoga gear and my Adidas sneakers. Favorite crystal? Quartz crystal — I have a collection in my home. What’s your mantra? My positive thoughts guide me to new heights. Favorite home items? My new Lily of the Valley glassware from my home collection with Pottery Barn. I also love Our Place cookware. Favorite podcast? We Can Do Hard Things with Glennon Doyle. It’s fun and real. moniquelhuillier.com. 2

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Givenchy

Gucci

C MAG A Z I N E

SPRING 2022