C California Style & Culture

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Summer 2022

Cover The Surfers Who Choose the Free Way Julian Schnabel’s Inimitable Eye

ELIZABETH OLSEN’s Life in Bloom A S TY

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STATEMENTS Happy 100th birthday to the Hollywood Bowl ............................................................... 47

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The NYC galleries setting up shop in L.A. ........................................................................... 54 Simple Feast’s food revolution comes to California ................................................... 62 Una Malan’s exquisite new showrooms ................................................................................ 66

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Introducing the new Weekend MaxMara collection .................................................. 70

TOC

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The Marvelous Mrs. Elizabeth Olsen ......................................................74 The surfers opting for the open road ..................................................... 86 Julian Schnabel’s life less ordinary ........................................................... 96 Jewels for summer inspired by the Pacific ......................................... 102 An alfresco master class from Dior Maison ...................................... 112

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C WEDDINGS Ivy Getty’s wondrous S.F. wedding ............................................................ 132 Wedding looks to be wowed by .................................................................. 134

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Nine rings to get the heart racing ............................................................. 136

DISCOVERIES The best spa treatments to get you summer ready..................... 151

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RH takes to the skies and the seas ........................................................... 156

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How influencer Chriselle Lim winds down ....................................... 158

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EDITORS’ PICKS This month’s wish list

HERMÈS Sabot Wicker bag, $6,200, hermes.com.

I

can already feel summer drifting in … not that the weather in the West ever changes that dramatically, but somehow the vibe starts to shift. Plans for travels are drawn up, long days beachside are a weekly staple and your body just starts to fall into the long, easy-breezy golden days. Nothing captures this idea of an endless summer mindset more than Matthew Brookes’ new tome Into the Wild, which looks at surf culture as a holistic way of life. Speaking of effortless ease, our cover subject, Elizabeth Olsen, exudes a rare kind of talent that just comes naturally. Her professional choices are always spot on and her next film, Doctor Strange in the Multiverse of Madness — in which she stars opposite Benedict Cumberbatch — is sure to be this summer’s blockbuster everyone is talking about. This issue is full of ideas of how to fill those long summer days, from concerts at the Hollywood Bowl as it celebrates its centennial to new museums and restaurants to upgrading your alfresco entertaining skills a la Dior Maison and its artistic director, Cordelia de Castellane, who jetted in from Paris to a heavenly garden in Montecito to show us how it’s done. Also, an example of how to eat more mindfully during this and every season comes courtesy of the team behind Simple Feast — a European company that has taken root here to present its plant-based-food philosophy to California. So if summer is a state of mind, it is important to live it every season — but particularly now — with days at the beach, time in the sun, and drives up and down PCH with the windows down, blasting great tunes. Life doesn’t get much better than that!

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Founder’s Note LOEWE Raffia Textured Viscose mules, $890, loewe.com.

Photography by JAMES WRIGHT. Fashion Direction by DEBORAH AFSHANI at The Wall Group. Hair by CLAYTON HAWKINS at A-Frame Agency using Dove. Makeup by PATI DUBROFF at Forward Artists using Chanel. Manicure by THUY NGUYEN at A-Frame Agency using Hermès. Location: The Huntington Library, Art Museum, and Botanical Gardens.

JENNIFER SMITH Founder, Editorial Director and CEO

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ELIZABETH OLSEN wears SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO jumpsuit and jewelry.

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P E O P L E

DEBORAH AFSHANI JAMES WRIGHT James Wright is co-founder of So It Goes, a magazine and creative agency run out of Los Angeles and London. Over the years, he has photographed and creative directed shoots with talent including Tilda Swinton, Cate Blanchett, Amy Adams, Adam Driver, Carey Mulligan and Andrew Garfield. For this issue, he focused his lens on Elizabeth Olsen in our cover feature, p.74. MY C SPOTS • Kensho Hollywood is the most intimate dining experience in L.A. • Above the Fold Larchmont is one of the last remaining newsstands in the city • Taking my golden retriever puppy to Leo Carrillo Beach

Deborah Afshani cut her teeth at Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue Italia and continues to work with an impressive roster of publications, photographers and clients. The L.A.-based stylist oversaw fashion direction for our cover story, “Marvelous Mrs. Olsen,” p.74. MY C SPOTS • Co showroom in Nichols Canyon — shop the most incredible basics (even furniture) in the beautiful Neutra House • Cedros Street in Solana Beach: Lofty Coffee, SoLo for gifts, Urban Remedy for snacks and juice • The UCLA Murphy Sculpture Garden is my favorite place of solace in the middle of the city

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RICHARD GODWIN

MATTHEW BROOKES

Having interviewed Elizabeth Olsen for “Marvelous Mrs. Olsen,” p.74, Richard Godwin is an English writer who spends most of his time dreaming of his former home in Venice Beach. His journalism has appeared in The Guardian, Sunday Times, Travel + Leisure and Vogue, and he has a sideline writing about cocktails, in his book The Spirits and weekly newsletter. MY C SPOTS • The Varnish in DTLA • A more dedicated application of free expression you will not find than Watts Towers • I love Cali’s indie, outdoor bookstores, like Bart’s Books in Ojai

Born in England, raised in South Africa, photographer Matthew Brookes recently published his second book, Into the Wild. A selection of these photographs is excerpted in “Riders on the Shore,” p.86. His portraits have been featured in Vanity Fair, Vogue and T Magazine, among others, and he works with a variety of brands, including Burberry, Cartier and Louis Vuitton. MY C SPOTS • Great White in Venice Beach for the salmon coconut curry • Flowerboy Project for the lavender boy coffee • Surf lessons from Glen Walsh in Venice

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DEBORAH: HENRI KEAY.

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T A T E

Statements Opener CONTRIBUTORS ANDREW BARKER

M

GOOD VIBRATIONS

ANUSH J. BENLIYAN DANIELLE DiMEGLIO LESLEY McKENZIE KELSEY McKINNON DAVID NASH GEMMA ZOË PRICE REBECCA RUSSELL

ARCHIVE PHOTOS/STRINGER/GETTY IMAGES.

ELIZABETH VARNELL

STYLE

Celebrating 100 years of epic concerts and stellar summer nights at the Hollywood Bowl

S

ince the Hollywood Bowl’s first official season began in July 1922, playing at the amphitheater carved into the Hollywood Hills has become a rite of passage in the music world. The Los Angeles Philharmonic inaugurated the venue that summer, its sounds amplified by the natural acoustics of the canyon. Over the last 100 years, a cavalcade of musical legends from all genres has taken to that same stage, from Ella Fitzgerald and Judy Garland to Elton John and The Beatles. Musicals have also become part of the regular programming of the venue, home to the Hollywood Bowl Orchestra and, in summertime, the L.A. Philharmonic. CULTURE

DESIGN

But beyond its celebrity-studded lineups, the Bowl has become a star in its own right: an architectural landmark distinguished by the graceful curves of its iconic white band shell. This summer, the Hollywood Bowl fetes its centennial season with a lineup featuring the likes of Diana Ross, Grace Jones, and Florence and the Machine, as well as the traditional July 4th fireworks spectacular and concerts paying tribute to past legends, such as a salute to Frank Sinatra and Peggy Lee featuring Billie Eilish and Debbie Harry. And no season is complete without the Philharmonic, which will take over the amphitheater for 34 nights, ushering in a new era of musical magic under the stars. hollywoodbowl.com. L.M. BEAUTY

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The revamped GIORGIO ARMANI boutique on Rodeo Drive.

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OCEAN SPRAY

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PRETTY IN PAISLEY

Likened to chapters in a summer novel, each of the fragrances in master perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud’s Cologne Perfume collection for Louis Vuitton evokes a perfect point in time on the West Coast. Beginning at daybreak with sunny morning-inspired scents, he’s already made his way through the afternoon and the sunset with previous launches. The line’s newest entry, City of Stars, chronicles nightfall, when a cacophony of lights emerges in the Los Angeles twilight. Cavallier Belletrud uses notes of citrus, sandalwood and tiare flower to capture the essence of a midsummer night in the city, while L.A.-based artist Alex Israel is again collaborating with the French house on the bottle’s hue, fragrance trunk and travel case, even creating an original painting with deep blues and fiery oranges specifically for the project. louisvuitton.com. E.V.

Fashion News

ETRO Crown Me Liquid Paisley handbag, $1,710, and shoulder bag, $2,090.

Etro’s bohemian prints, a staple of West Coast summers from music festival lawns to beach bonfires, are now splashed across its playful new leather bag. Ideally sized for a phone and lipstick — and available in a roomier version that will fit a paperback — the Crown Me flap bags, in an aptly named Liquid Paisley pattern, add a jolt of energy to crisp summer whites, bright color blocks and clashing prints alike. Available in candy pink or emerald green, the bag’s genderneutral, tattoo-inspired motif, driven by the Italian house’s all-in fluid approach to dressing, also appears on shirts, sweatshirts, pants and bucket hats this season. etro.com. E.V.

LOUIS VUITTON City of Stars cologne, $280/100 mL, with artwork by ALEX ISRAEL.

RODEO REFRESH If the walls inside Giorgio Armani’s Rodeo Drive boutique could talk, there would be quite a style story to tell, starting with the Italian designer’s polished approach to modern premiere looks worn by an unparalleled roster of stars — from Richard Gere to Cate Blanchett. Now the over 9,000-square-foot Rodeo Drive institution, initially opened in 1988, has undergone a renovation, beginning with its storefront facade newly emblazoned with stylized palm silhouettes. Inside, walls clad in Armani/Casa silk, floors in marble and onyx, and furniture in eucalyptus tones house women’s accessories, beauty and fragrances and a new Made to Order room. Men’s seasonal collections are on a mezzanine, and the boutique’s second floor includes evening dresses and men’s formal and Made to Measure designs in addition to a VIP room. Not to be missed is an exclusive new evening collection in honor of the opening. 436 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310271-5555; armani.com. E.V.

THIS AMERICAN LIFE The Polo shirt, Ralph Lauren’s masterfully simple design that debuted in 1972 and quickly achieved global ubiquity in its various incarnations — shrunken, supersized, patched, striped, printed, painted, weathered and tie-dyed — is celebrating its 50th anniversary with a new volume chronicling its rise from all-cotton sport shirt to all-purpose American staple. The new monograph, Ralph Lauren’s Polo Shirt (Rizzoli New York, $37), explores the cultural impact of the collared garment that evoked a lifestyle through an embroidered galloping horse and rider. A host of athletes, politicians, actors, singers, entrepreneurs and fans are pictured in their Polos and a timeline traces its storied evolution. ralphlauren.com. E.V. JAIMIE and ANTON LACSON sport RALPH LAUREN Polo shirts in Carson.

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RALPH LAUREN: COURTESY OF RALPH LAUREN/JAIMIE & ANTON LACSON (PORTRAIT).

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FINNEY Boyfriend shirt, $585, and Le Weekend boxers, $235.

SILKY, SMOOTH

ETHEREAL ESSENTIALS For sisters Margaret and Katherine Kleveland of Dôen, a new brick-andmortar location housing their light-as-air, prairie-printed frocks, blouses, pants and sweaters at the Montecito Country Mart is a homecoming. “Our collections are heavily inspired by a California of decades past, and growing up in Santa Barbara planted seeds for our creative energy,” says Katherine. “Seeing the colors of the ocean daily, smelling orange blossoms and being surrounded by old oak trees as a child offered us a magical landscape that lives on daily in our minds.” The collectively owned, women-run, online apparel label again collaborated with L.A. design team Nickey Kehoe to create its second shop, inspired equally by the area’s Spanish Revival architecture and midcentury design. Refreshingly simple organic cotton staples, including gingham dresses, printed shorts and poetic shirts, round out summer offerings inside the earthy space. 1014C Coast Village Rd., Santa Barbara, 877-7567353; shopdoen.com. E.V.

Fashion News

From top: The Wendelin dress, $268. DÔEN’s new MONTECITO COUNTRY MART digs.

Silk shirts and pleated pants in watercolor prints and jewel tones are the backbone of Finney, the luxury readyto-wear line with both women’s and men’s refined essentials that have already caught the eye of Kristen Stewart and Andrew Garfield. Founder Phillip Bodenham takes inspiration from London and Los Angeles, where he splits his time. “I love that louche, undone vibe that L.A. has,” he says, also noting that the addition of a tux jacket transforms the look for an evening in London. All of which is fitting for a company whose name, Bodenham says, is derived “probably from that insouciant, devil-may-care vibe of the Huckleberry Finn character.” The river-loving protagonist may also inform Finney’s reliance on natural fibers and small runs, eschewing plastics and ocean-harming microplastics for laidback looks that are at once effortless and sophisticated. finney-co.com. E.V.

BRIGHT IDEAS A Popsicle palette for hot summer days

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1. CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE Teen Cuir Triomphe bag, $3,400. 2. BOTTEGA VENETA Padded Cassette bag, $3,500. 3. FENDI Fuschia Peekaboo ISeeU Petite bag, $3,890. 4. CHANEL Mini Flap bag, $4,900. R.R.

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MAMI WATA Three Tone Banana shirt, $80.

FORZA FORTE FORTE!

FORTE FORTE's West Coast flagship features myriad textures like natural lime and brass.

Since its 2002 launch, Forte Forte has garnered a cult following for its anti-trend, ultrafeminine approach to fashion, dedication to craftsmanship and exquisite fabrics. The family-run Italian womenswear label, founded by siblings Giada and Paolo Forte, has a number of impeccably appointed international boutiques — including in Milan, Cannes, London, Madrid and Tokyo — and is sold through Farfetch, Elyse Walker and other multi-brand retailers, but had yet to make its U.S. brick-and-mortar debut. “California, with its sunny streets and delicate bohemian spirit was the perfect next step,” says art director Robert Vattilana. The highly anticipated Melrose Place flagship takes inspiration from the state’s desert landscapes and modernist architecture and stocks the new Spring/ Summer 2022 collection of breezy seaside staples. “The Los Angeles boutique expresses a desire for simplification,” Vattilana says. Ultimately, it’s simply “a unique place to discover a special wardrobe.” 8424 Melrose Place, L.A., 323-272-3895; forte-forte.com. A.J.B.

Fashion News

COSTA MESA STYLE

Surfboard, $9,300, and rash guard, $3,575, both at the new HERMÈS boutique in Costa Mesa.

The colors and textures of sea, sand, sky and mountains inspired the earth tones and lush natural materials inside Hermès’ new 7,100-square-foot South Coast Plaza boutique. Silk scarves float in wooden grid-like frames inside the newly expanded Costa Mesa space — appropriately designed in a horseshoe shape by Parisian architecture agency RDAI — while fine jewelry and the leather salon beckon with the brand’s coveted Kelly and Birkin bags. Ties, shoes, timepieces, crystal, porcelain tablewear and all manner of equestrian designs are here, as are perfumes and the Hermès beauty line, including limited-edition lipstick shades. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s spring women’s collection of precisely crafted leather dresses and Véronique Nichanian’s pared-back menswear join store exclusives, including a surfboard design from Maori tattoo artist Te Rangitu Netana and the pièce de résistance: a portable vinyl boom box with a vertical turntable. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-437-1725; hermes.com. E.V.

SURF'S UP Known for designing vibrant made-to-order surf boards with African motifs, Mami Wata (which means mama water in West African pidgin English) was introduced to the U.S. market late last year. Born out of South Africa, the lifestyle brand’s core motivational message is to generate thriving communities on the continent by creating jobs, using local materials and driving humanity together with the power of African surf. Manifesting the brand’s ideology to broaden community spirit all around, this summer Mami Wata’s tides will be coming in to Venice, with a pop-up through July to celebrate all things afrosurf. Speaking to the culture it derived from, the bold-toned, unisex offerings range from swim to accessories ready to accompany you to the beach. 1508 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; mamiwatasurf.com. R.R.

THROWING SHADE Oversize frames to shield from the sun

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1. TOM FORD sunglasses, $520. 2. DOLCE & GABBANA sunglasses, $427. 3. GUCCI sunglasses, $1,100. 4. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO sunglasses, $325. R.R.

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RALPH LARUEN HOME Hailey leather baskets, from $395, Kara pillow, $255, Baycrest throw pillow, $200, Marlie throw pillow, $285, Henley throw pillow, $255, Hadley beach blanket, $125, Payge throw blanket, $595, Collin Stripe throw blanket, $295, Wyatt bar tool three-piece set, $95, Ethan glassware, $35 each, and Macomber catchall, $295.

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RL Home BEACH, PLEASE Introducing Ralph Lauren Home’s California-ready summer collection

Photography by SARA PRINCE Styling by BRITINI WOOD 52

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STATE OF THE ART

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Los Angeles is in the midst of a gallery boom as New York’s finest make themselves at home on the West Coast

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Long Read

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ast summer, Thomas Kelly started scouting spaces for a Los Angeles branch of New York’s Sean Kelly Gallery. He looked at about 15 buildings before landing on the perfect spot in prime art-world territory: a three-story building on Highland Avenue a stone’s throw from fellow heavy hitters such as Regen Projects, Jeffrey Deitch and Tanya Bonakdar Gallery. “We don’t represent any Los Angeles artists, so that affords us a unique opportunity,” says Kelly, who plans to relocate from New York with his family in July to head up the L.A. location. It’s a chance to connect with new artists, visit

studios and establish new relationships, he says, not to mention the ability to provide some of the artists on his gallery’s roster — the likes of Kehinde Wiley and Marina Abramović — with Los Angeles representation. While the pandemic didn’t spur the decision, it didn’t hurt either, says Kelly. The space, a one-time ultra-hip yoga and wellness center, “wouldn’t have been available to us if the pandemic hadn’t happened … but we weren’t looking for a quick grab on a cheap space,” he clarifies. “What the pandemic did afford was a chance to see opportunity if one was looking for it, and the possibility of growing a business if it was the right

time. And it felt like the right time.” New York’s art dealers have always watched Los Angeles out of the corner of their eye, taking notes on a flourishing homegrown artist community, deeppocketed collectors and relatively affordable real estate. Some, including Matthew Marks, Tanya Bonakdar and Michele Maccarone took the leap within the last decade, opening West Coast branches of their already established New York galleries. But a surge of New York galleries to the West Coast — blue-chip names Lisson, Sean Kelly and Pace among them — prompts the question, why now? “Los Angeles has a lot of energy and, most importantly, a lot of artists. It is

Words by LESLEY McKENZIE Illustration by DEREK CHARM 54

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critical to be somewhere that artists are congregating so that you can be a part of that conversation,” says Allegra LaViola, owner and director of Sargent’s Daughters, which shares its space on the Lower East Side with Shrine. Come fall, the two New York galleries will continue their collaboration on the West Coast, opening a joint gallery on Western Avenue in Los Angeles. “The time was right and the opportunity was there — it seems like other people feel the same way given the recent wave of East Coast transplants,” she notes. Case in point: In February, New York’s Danziger Gallery touched down in Los Angeles with a space in Bergamot Station Arts Center. That same month, Kathy Grayson’s gallery The Hole made its West Coast debut with an 8,000-square-foot space on North La Brea Avenue after two years of pandemic-induced delays. Lisson Gallery is also putting down roots in Los Angeles, taking over an 8,000-square-foot former nightclub in the Sycamore District slated to open in the fall. And David

Zwirner finally put the rumors to rest, confirming an East Hollywood location, set to open in 2023. It’s not just newcomers who are on a land grab. International powerhouse Hauser & Wirth, which planted its Los Angeles flag in 2016 with a location in DTLA’s Arts District, is expanding to a

“There’s an ability to take risks here in Los Angeles ” M A G G I E K AY N E

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second spot in West Hollywood later this year. An L.A. presence has already put the gallery on home turf for many of its artists, including Mark Bradford and Paul McCarthy, and has enabled the gallery to expand its local roster, too. “Many of our internationally based artists also consider L.A. to be a major art destination and we have been able to give a number of them their first shows here,” says Stacen Berg, partner and executive director of Hauser & Wirth. “Opening a second location will allow us to further integrate ourselves and provide the opportunity to engage with a different community.” Meanwhile, Pace has taken a more plug-and-play approach, taking over Kayne Griffin and its 15,000-square-foot space on La Brea. The acquired gallery’s founders, Bill Griffin and Maggie Kayne, were brought on to help lead Pace as managing partners. The merger is a result of a long-standing collaboration between the two galleries, who share Light and Space artists such as James Turrell and Robert Irwin. “Pace continued on p.157

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THE ALCOVE • ALMA MATER /VIBAE • BROAD STREET OYSTER CO. • CATCH SURF • FRED SEGAL • HIGHER STANDARDS • JOULES & WATTS COFFEE ROASTERS MALIBU EYE • MARMALADE CAFE • THE MINDRY • TERESSA FOGLIA • PURSE REHAB • RES IPSA • SURFING COWBOYS • SUMMER SOMEWHERE WINES • WITTMORE


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GOOD EGGS is now offering meal kits in addition to organic groceries.

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From left: The KEN FULK-designed bar at Little Saint. Mokum carrots and shaved red cabbage with crunchy rice, sunflower sprouts and XO sauce. Koshikari rice pudding with amaro baba and candied citrus.

Food News

COMMUNAL TABLE Little Saint — an outpost of creative director Ken Fulk’s San Francisco-based nonprofit Saint Joseph’s Arts Foundation — fittingly opened in Healdsburg on Earth Day in April as wine country’s new farm-forward, community-minded gathering place for art, music and plant-based cuisine. Alongside permanent installations from local artists, Fulk has curated warm, inviting spaces within the award-winning modern grange building. Vintage pieces and custom textiles herald the venue’s agrarian roots, from the farm stand and provisions to dining spaces and lounge areas where guests can enjoy live music and film screenings. Kyle and Katina Connaughton, co-owners of SingleThread Farm (Sonoma’s only restaurant with three Michelin stars), oversee Little Saint’s wine shop, bar, cafe and plant-based restaurant through their hospitality group, Vertice. “The hope is that it becomes a real gathering place for the community,” says Fulk. 25 N. St., Healdsburg, 707-433-8207; littlesainthealdsburg.com. G.Z.P.

The Bay Area’s revolutionary online grocer Good Eggs is now in Los Angeles, offering Beverly Hills, Santa Monica, West Hollywood and beyond same-day delivery of fresh, quality groceries that are ethically, sustainably and locally sourced. So local, in fact, that more than 70% of Good Eggs’ organic products come from within 250 miles (in contrast to the 10% to 25% of most grocery stores), directly from California’s hardworking producers. In addition to goods like Masumoto Family Farm peaches, strawberries from Harry’s Berries, smallbatch pasta from Semolina Artisanal Pasta, Sweet Laurel paleo baked goods and Fly By Jing’s famous Sichuan Chili Crisp, the sustainable food platform also sells meal kits and ready-to-eat foods developed with the help of leading chefs like Samin Nosrat. And the kicker? It’s all available subscription free. goodeggs.com. A.J.B.

CLUB SANDWICH Is it a private members’ club? Is it a hotel? The Aster on Vine Street is both, combining the generous hospitality of your favorite lodging with the sophistication and exclusivity of a club. Launching in June, the indoor-outdoor amenities of the six-story building will include a pool, lounges, bars and a yet-to-be-named rooftop restaurant with views stretching from the Hollywood Hills to DTLA, plus a recording studio, screening room, cabaret lounge and 35 suites of over 700 square feet each. The adults-only club and hotel comes from Salt Hotels (of Hotel Greystone in Miami Beach and Hutton Brickyards in Kingston, N.Y.) and is named after California’s native aster flower. It promises a club “where creative connections come naturally, [where] members are invited to plug in or unplug.” 1717 Vine St., L.A.; theasterla.com. A.B. A sketch of The Pool Room at THE ASTER .

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LITTLE SAINT: EMMA K. MORRIS (FOOD), BRENDAN MAININI (BAR).

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“Yolanda López: Portrait of the Artist,” on view at MCASD.

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Alonzo King Lines Ballet, a contemporary company based in San Francisco since 1982, opens its 40th anniversary season with the world premiere of an eight-show series in May featuring Grammy-winning vocalist Lisa Fischer, who performs live alongside dancers to a newly commissioned score by jazz pianist and composer Jason Moran. It’s the second time Fischer and King — a celebrated choreographer and the company’s lauded founder and artistic director — have collaborated. King first learned of Fischer’s work in the 2013 documentary

GENERAL ASSEMBLY

Twenty Feet from Stardom, but realized he’d been hearing her voice for years; in addition to her solo releases, Fischer spent four decades singing backing vocals for Luther Vandross, The Rolling Stones and Aretha Franklin, among myriad others. “For anyone who doesn’t believe in miracles, please go listen to Lisa Fischer,” says King. “I was struck by her overwhelming vocals, the beauty of her voice and being, plus the humility, intuition and genius that drive it.” May 13-22 at Blue Shield of California Theater at YBCA. Tickets $40-$115; linesballet.org. G.Z.P.

Culture News Works by SAMUEL LEVI JONES and CHRIS CORALES at SFMOMA.

Pieced together from the museum’s permanent collection, all the works in SFMOMA’s exhibition, “Art of California: Greater than the Sum,” are themselves mostly composed of common objects — inherited keepsakes, scraps of fabric, household goods and scavenged cardboard boxes. As the museum explains, “such humble, unexpected origins belie the alchemies that occur in the process of making — and result in artworks inestimably greater than the sum of their parts.” The artists represented in the show (closing May 29) all have their roots firmly planted in the Golden State, like Noah Purifoy, Mark Bradford, Betye Saar and Samuel Levi Jones, whose work Purloin was one of 31 pieces gifted to the institution in 2021 by Pamela Joyner and Alfred Giuffrida. 151 Third St., S.F., 415-357-4000; sfmoma.org. D.N.

In 1916, architect Irving Gill built a modernist home at the edge of the Pacific for philanthropist and journalist Ellen Browning Scripps. South Molton Villa, as it was called, later became home to the San Diego Museum of Contemporary Art (MCASD). Now, the property is in the spotlight again for its cutting-edge design following a stunning $105 million, multiyear renovation by star-chitect Annabelle Selldorf. Long hailed as the art world’s go-to talent, with projects ranging from New York’s The Frick Collection to David Zwirner’s West Chelsea gallery, Selldorf has more than doubled the structure’s existing square footage to make room for its expanding collection. The result is a modernist study in concrete, travertine panels, aluminum brise-soleil and glass with soaring 20-foot-tall ceilings and unparalleled ocean views. 700 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858-454-3541; mcasd.org. K.M.

SHRED THE NORM Growing up in Australia, stylist and former marketing exec Lara Einzig recalls being told that “surfing wasn’t really for girls.” It wasn’t until she moved to Venice Beach in 2014 that she picked up a board and realized that notion couldn’t be further from the truth. The empowering female surfers she encountered along her journey go against the status quo and ultimately inspired her to write Women Making Waves: Trailblazing Surfers in and out of the Water (Ten Speed Press, $35). The 29 extraordinary women featured — from big-wave record holders and world champions (including Malibu-based Stephanie Gilmore) to doctors, mothers and activists — redefine surf culture through candid interviews about the power of the sport, and prove surfing isn’t just for the boys. D.D. From far left: WOMEN MAKING WAVES comes out June 28. Seven-time world champion STEPHANIE GILMORE.

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BALLET: RJ MUNA (DANCERS), FRANCK THIBAULT (PORTRAIT). MCASD: @JULY17_. SURF BOOK: NICOLE SWEET (COVER), CAIT MIERS (SURFING), REPRINTED FROM WOMEN MAKING WAVES COPYRIGHT © 2022 BY LARA EINZIG. PUBLISHED BY TEN SPEED PRESS, AN IMPRINT OF RANDOM HOUSE.

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Simple Feast SIMPLE PLEASURES Born in Copenhagen and inspired by California, an innovative fooddelivery company takes plant-based meals to new heights

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wenty years ago, doctors advised Jakob Jønck that his peak fitness days were numbered. “That’s a rough sentence to get put down on you when you imagine you’re going to be physically active for the rest of your life,” says the former professional ski instructor, then in his mid-20s. He was told that he had 10 years left as an athlete given the injuries he had sustained. It was a wake-up call for Jønck, who soon realized that a plant-based diet was a way to optimize his health. Not only was it key to less inflammation in his body, but it also allowed him to have more energy

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“We’re not targeting vegans, we are targeting everybody” JAKOB JØNCK and bounce back faster from injuries. What’s more, a plant-based diet would benefit the planet. “There’s this moment in time that it dawns on you, why are we actually killing all these animals?” says the entrepreneur, who spent four years in Silicon Valley working primarily with fitness startup Endomondo (which Jønck co-founded in 2007 and sold to Under Armour for $85 million) and MyFitnessPal, along with 10-plus years working in health tech in the Nordic countries and California. Fast-forward to present day, when Jønck’s personal approach to health is the cornerstone for Simple Feast, an organic, sustainably minded, whole-food innovation company Jønck co-founded in his native Denmark in 2014. Originally conceived as a recipe app to promote healthy eating, Simple Feast broadened its mission in 2017 to include pantry staples and plant-based meal kits crafted with real ingredients. Last year, he decided the U.S. market expansion would begin in California. “What people don’t realize about Denmark and Scandinavia is we are big meat eaters,” says Jønck, who also serves as the brand’s CEO. “We figured, OK, if we can make something real that works in this country — and we’re not targeting vegans, we are targeting everybody — we have something that probably can be successful elsewhere as well.” In 2018, Simple Feast expanded into neighboring Sweden, and three years later, Jønck moved with his wife and three children to Santa Barbara, where the company has a test kitchen and a larger production facility near Oxnard. Currently available in Los Angeles and Santa Barbara, Simple Feast has its sights set on San Diego and Northern California next. “From a culinary perspective, we are super inspired by the California kitchen,” says Chief Innovation Officer Anders Vald, the chef-turned-entrepreneur tapped by Jønck early on to lead the innovation team

Simple Feast

Clockwise from bottom left: Prepared eggplant and chickpeas. The SIMPLE FEAST team shares a meal. Organic artichoke. Spices in the Santa Barbara test kitchen. Chief Innovation Officer ANDERS VALD prepping vegetables.

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“We talk about our kitchen philosophy as CoCal — Copenhagen/California” JAKOB JØNCK

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and formulate and launch the brand’s offerings. Together with a team of Michelin-trained chefs from the likes of Copenhagen’s Noma and The French Laundry in Napa Valley, and product developers in California and Copenhagen, Vald formulates a global menu for all markets. “Occasionally we will swap out a side dish due to seasonality, but the overall profile of the dish is the same,” explains Vald. Taking cues from 100% organic local (and when possible, biodynamic) produce, recipes range from shiitake vegetable potstickers with citrus ponzu sauce to cauliflower, carrot and bell pepper korma. Retail products such as Simple Feast’s black garlic ketchup will soon be introduced to the U.S. “Internally we talk about our kitchen philosophy as CoCal — Copenhagen/California — and how we mix those two worlds and how they inspire each other,” says Jønck. Available by subscription, and chosen via an app, the chef-prepared meals are easily assembled and warmed up in about 20 minutes. They are delivered each week in packaging that is biodegradable, reusable or compostable. What you won’t find on your plate: any overprocessed foods or meat substitutes. As for that dire prediction doctors gave Jønck 20 years ago? “I feel the best I’ve ever felt,” he says. “That’s pretty awesome.” simplefeast.com. X

Clockwise from top left: (From far left) Simple Feast’s Global Creative Director MAJ HENRIQUES, Co-Founder and CEO JAKOB JØNCK , Chief Innovation Officer ANDERS VALD and VP of Business Development FREDERIK HENRIQUES. Spaghetti puttanesca. Dinner is served. Eggplant gyros.

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D E S I G N UNA MALAN was the West Coast director of The Rug Company before opening her own showroom.

TREASURE HUNT

COOL CASAS Since opening her first interiors showroom in the heart of La Cienega’s design quarter in 2017, Una Malan has become the go-to source for in-the-know design devotees seeking luxury contemporary pieces by the likes of Gabriel Scott, Joseph Pagano and Rose Uniacke. Having outgrown her former digs, Malan is now opening a gleaming new space down the street. “It was home to [antiques dealer] Richard Shapiro for several years. ... It’s so light, bright and open. It has a wonderful energy,” says Malan. She is also set to open Una Casa Privada, an experiential show house in the hills where she’ll be able to display pieces in situ and host events. That is, until she inevitably outgrows that too. 800 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310-734-7077; unamalan.com. K.M.

Design News

SEA CHANGE

INTERLUDE HOME Coastal Collection Arabella swivel chair in Surf, $4,647.

Interlude Home has launched the Coastal Collection, an edit of chairs, couches, dressers, and bedside and accent tables in neutral tones and azure blues that echo the lapping shores of the Pacific as they hit the California coast. The 58-piece strong collection comes in 9 different fabrics. With this collection, founder Wendy King Philips sought to make life as easy as possible while lounging by the sea. “I looked to the sea, salt and sand for inspiration.” How Californian is that? interludehome.com. A.B.

San Francisco-based Maja Lithander Smith scours the world for the incredible and colorful pieces that fill her boutique, Found by Maja. Her selection of home accessories, art, textiles, furnishings and vintage finds are always expertly curated, and now — since taking over the former de Gournay showroom up the road from her original Presidio Heights location — there’s even more space to create the inspiring vignettes she’s known for. Pop by or shop online to discover items like rare 1960s Gucci boar motif wall hooks, Jean Roger Paris artichoke basins, Edwardian matchstick strikers, Jacques Adnet bar carts and Milo Baughman chairs upholstered in malachite-printed velvet. 3681A Sacramento St., S.F., 415-593-5321; foundbymaja .com. D.N.

FRENCH CONNECTION Interior and furniture designer Pierre Yovanovitch has once again teamed up with Dior Maison, this time to create a refined, 15-piece desk accessory collection inspired by both Monsieur Dior’s Château de La Colle Noire and his own castle, Château de Fabrègues, in the South of France. From a cigar box, candlesticks and trays crafted of oak to a mirror made of hornbeam, each of the sculpturally exquisite items is handcrafted in France. “I wanted to design a collection following a narrative in which the beauty and unpredictability of natural materials play with the rigor of the lines,” Yovanovitch explains. dior.com. D.N. Pieces in the DIOR MAISON x PIERRE YOVANOVITCH collection range from $370 to $5,300.

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The Parisian salon-inspired entrance to FOUND BY MAJA.

UNA MALAN: ACE MISIUNAS.

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Whitewall

Karén Khachaturov from the series “Self-Destruction” Fuji Crystal Photo Print under matte Acrylic Glass | Slimline Case | 26 “ x 40 “

Bringing photography to completion When an image becomes visible as a print, it transforms from an abstract idea into reality. For WhiteWall, that means that a picture is only complete once it is hanging on the wall. We achieve perfection through craftsmanship, innovation, and use of the very best materials. Our award-winning gallery quality is always accessible to photo enthusiasts both online and in our stores. Print on display at the Circulation(s) festival at 104 in Paris from April 2nd to May 29th, 2022.


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Jewelry News JIMMY CHOO JC rings, $215-$250. Far left: JC Star stud, $250/pair.

CHOO CHOO CHAINS Jimmy Choo stilettos — leg-elongating staples for over two decades — and the line’s Bon Bon handbag with its bracelet-like handle, are inspiring new spinoffs this season. The brand is expanding its footprint with a new line of jewelry to adorn ears, necks, wrists, fingers and ankles in baubles echoing its house codes. Swarovski crystals embellishing shoe designs since the company’s launch are now strewn about earrings shaped to resemble the company’s trademark star. Pearls, another elegant brand mainstay, accent cuffs, studs and earrings with lustrous spherical shapes. The interlocking JC monogram, visible across rings and enamel bangles, is another collection standout. In all, the striking new pieces make a case for a coordinated head-to-toe look this summer. jimmychoo.com. E.V.

The shimmering facade of PIAGET in Beverly Hills.

The storefront of Piaget’s new immersive boutique on Rodeo Drive is a glittering addition to the growing list of Instaworthy backgrounds around town. Created to mimic the house’s Milanese Mesh — precious metals woven into bracelets and bands by its artisans — the facade catches and reflects sunlight and lamplight in equal measure. Inside, a digital mirror renders reflections into silhouettes comprised of gold particles to print or share. Altiplano timepieces with the brand’s signature ultrathin movements are on offer alongside Piaget’s other luxury watch collections, as is a unique high jewelry suite created especially for the new boutique. As an ode to Los Angeles’ blue skies, the exclusive Magic Hour set is showcased in glimmering sapphires, aquamarines and diamonds. 465 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 424-332-4280; piaget.com. E.V.

WRISTS ASSURED Swoon over diamond-encrusted steel and white-gold timepieces

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1. BULGARI Serpenti Tubogas watch, $9,300. 2. CARTIER Indomptables de Cartier watch, price upon request. 3. CHANEL J12 Baguette Diamond Star watch, price upon request. 4. TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany 1837 Makers watch, $6,500. 5. HARRY WINSTON Avenue Classic Moon Phase watch, price upon request. R.R.

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CONNECT FOR TAG Heuer’s reworked Connected Calibre E4 smartwatch is ready to monitor an evergrowing ecosystem of activities, including guided workouts, running, precise altitude, cycling metrics, golf-shot distances, pool-lap totals and interval breakdowns, all without connecting to a phone. The next-generation, sporty 45 mm face and slimmed-down 42 mm model — inspired by elegant chronographs and worn by tennis champ Naomi Osaka and track gold medalist Sydney McLaughlin — have a longer battery life and high-contrast screens visible even in strong sunlight. But beyond the specs, they’re an elegant addition to the genre. Mechanical watch faces are based on classic TAG timepieces while more digital-leaning versions are inspired by the 160-year-old company’s sports timers. tagheuer.com. E.V.

TAG HEUER Connected Calibre E4 timepieces, from $1,800.

BULGARI’s monochromatic Serpenti Viper bracelets in ethically sourced rose gold and yellow gold.

SCALING UP

Jewelry News Coiling Serpenti Viper bracelets, rings and necklaces — pared back to the fabled Bulgari design’s most radically modern form — are debuting in monochromatic shades of 18kt yellow, rose and white gold from traceable ethical sources. Geometric scales mounted one by one on an internal gold spine create flexibility for the line’s trademark second-skin architecture. Neck-encircling snakes, set with 40 carats of diamond pavé, round out the fresh additions to an ever-evolving collection’s increasingly angular incarnations. bulgari.com. E.V.

From top: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Frivole bracelet, mini model, $2,110. Two Butterfly Between the Finger ring, $21,900.

IN BLOOM French jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels just opened its first stand-alone San Francisco boutique steps from Union Square in the florid beaux arts Sachs building. The 3,000-squarefoot space, built in 1908 and designed by Lansburgh and Joseph, Architects, with telltale green terracotta columns, now houses the maison’s fanciful baubles inspired by wild blooms, bouquets, butterflies and enchanted gardens. Murano glass chandeliers and goldleaf-painted walls illuminate Frivole emerald-encrusted earrings and necklaces, similar sets with rose gold and rubies, and a ring mixing a nosegay of both stones. Also on hand are the whimsical Two Butterfly designs now available in a rich turquoise stone with yellow gold and diamonds. Each piece seems ready to alight on all of the natural-world-inspired, diamondencrusted flora inside the boutique. 140 Geary St., S.F.; vancleefarpels.com. E.V.

FANCIFUL FLORA Timeless floral motifs from Tiffany & Co.’s heritage designs are reemerging as transformable jewels in the house’s new Botanica collection. Riffs on orchids, dandelions and thistles are abstracted and recreated with diamonds and colored gemstones, a genius evolution of the house’s savoir faire. Innovative mechanisms allow the dimensional garden-party-ready jewels to reconfigure diamond rings, necklaces, earrings and brooches into various styles. Jean Schlumberger’s fanciful floral designs are reimagined including his Fleurage bracelet, initially sketched as a candidate for the Tiffany diamond and now set with over 48 carats of cushioncut aquamarine framed by diamond flower petals. Louis Comfort Tiffany’s dandelion hair ornaments inspired a new necklace with two interchangeable pendants that can be worn five ways. G. Paulding Farnham’s orchid brooches, created for the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle, are even curvier and newly accentuated with round rose-cut, modified rose-cut and round brilliant diamonds. tiffany.com. E.V.

TIFFANY & CO. Botanica bracelet in platinum with diamonds, price upon request, from the latest Blue Book collection.

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SAINT LAURENT Icare Maxi Shopping bag in quilted lambskin leather, $3,990.

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LOUIS VUITTON Unlocked silk square, $485, and Moon Square sunglasses, $675.

SUN BLOCK

An oversize tote for every occasion

Fashion News TO THE MAX “Everything was about color, print and shape,” says editor and stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, describing the 1970s, the decade she found herself gravitating toward while designing a vibrant, print-defined Weekend Max Mara capsule in collaboration with the Italian house. The collection of separates and accessories, called Family Affair, took shape as Karefa-Johnson — who views her relatives’ style as an endless archive of inspiration — flipped through pages of photo albums containing images of her mother and diplomat grandparents wearing “pieces that sing” as they traveled the world or casually gathered over a weekend. “I often say style is my inheritance,” she says. Her clashing prints on cotton dresses and pants, interchangeable silk-twill skirts and shirts, silk scarves, wooden clogs, washed denim baker boy hats and damier macrame cotton versions of the house’s Pasticcino bag were captured in portrait-style photographs for the Signature Collection campaign by California-raised model Gigi Hadid. us.weekendmaxmara.com. E.V.

Louis Vuitton’s silk squares and oversized sunglasses are the season’s ultimate dayto-evening multitaskers. Precisely knotted scarves — screen printed and hand rolled in France and Italy — protect necks from midday rays and shelter lush locks from convertible-driven gusts. Once the sun sets, the brightly hued accessories, awash in monogram patterns with chains and cords, luggage tags, hot air balloons, or vintage trunks, can be elegantly wrapped around wrists or bag handles for a night on the town. Available in three sizes, the silks pair seamlessly with the house’s new oversized square, rectangular or cat-eye frames in black or cream acetate rimmed with metal carved with monogram flowers — a nod to a similar pattern emblazoned on the Coussin bag’s chain. True to form, the bold shades cut the glare both poolside and underneath neon city lights. louisvuitton.com. E.V.

The WEEKEND MAX MARA x GABRIELLA KAREFA-JOHNSON Signature Collection.

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SAINT LAURENT: RAINER HOSCH.

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SUMMER 2022 THE HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART MUSEUM, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS.

Well Opener The Marvelous Mrs. Elizabeth Olsen at The Huntington Library The surfer tribe opting for the open road and living on four wheels Artist-auteur Julian Schnabel reflects on his life less ordinary

JAMES WRIGHT

Jewels and watches for summer inspired by the Pacific Ocean An alfresco master class from Dior Maison’s Cordelia de Castellane California Style & Culture 73


BALENCIAGA gown, $12,535, and boots, $2,390. ALEXANDER McQUEEN earpiece, $650.

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From home decor to biodiversity, Elizabeth Olsen’s interests are rooted in the glorious nature of the Golden State. Here, the bona fide star of big and small screens tells C about her ambitions beyond the Marvel multiverse

MARVELOUS MRS. OLSEN Feature - Olsen

Words by RICHARD GODWIN Photography by JAMES WRIGHT Fashion Direction by DEBORAH AFSHANI


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FENDI dress with belt, $2,390, and pants with skirt overlay, $3,890. JENNIFER FISHER earrings, similar styles available, and chain link cuff, $795. CARTIER bracelet, $38,800, and ring, $5,450. Opposite: CHANEL jacket, $6,300, skirt, $3,150, earrings, $1,200, and bracelet, $850. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ring (left), $3,050. BULGARI ring, $4,500.

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VALENTINO gown, $15,000. HARRY WINSTON ring, price upon request.

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PRADA dress, $3,050. Opposite: LOUIS VUITTON cape, price upon request.

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Y

ou think you know Elizabeth Olsen. A fixed star in the Marvel Cinematic Universe. The younger sister of the identical ubercelebrities Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. Heart-stoppingly beautiful on any red carpet, charmingly relatable on any talk show, about as close to a natural-born celebrity as you can get, having made her screen debut at age 5 in the Olsen TV movie, How the West Was Fun. And yet nothing about Elizabeth Olsen is quite as you expect. A few minutes into a conversation that was supposed to have something to do with the new Doctor Strange movie in which she stars, we have somehow moved on to the evils of pesticides and the importance of cover crops. Yes, Hollywood is all very well, but Olsen still dreams of studying agriculture and starting a progressive farmstead. “You know, monocrop culture is so damaging to the planet,” she says. She has been inspired by the “closed ecosystem” they’ve got going at the forward-thinking

Hanzell Vineyards near her home in Sonoma. “They incorporate so many different kinds of crops in order to feed the people who work there, but also to encourage the proper kind of nutrients for the soil.” This

“We just eloped. Traditions aren’t very important to me” ELIZABETH OLSEN

stands in marked contrast to the miles and miles of single-crop fields that line so many Californian freeways, where all life is exterminated to make one thing grow. “I just think it is really wild that we keep thinking we need to become vegetarians and vegans to save the planet. But, like, really the best thing to save the planet is biodiversity.” I didn’t expect to be talking about the perils of Big Ag quite so soon into our conversation — and neither, I suspect, did Olsen, who suddenly cuts herself short, wary of being cast as some sort of pollinator spokeswoman. “You can’t say too much about anything anymore because then you become part of a platitude that you never signed up for, you know?” But a fear of monoculture becomes a running theme. Why concentrate on one thing to the exclusion of all else? Why do we expect everyone to be the same? I had started out by complimenting Olsen on the stylish floral blazer she’s wearing, sitting in a pool of light in the kitchen of her newly renovated other home in the San Fernando Valley. It’s a fixer-upper just off Mulholland Drive dating from 1972. She and her husband, the musician Robbie Arnett, took it “down to the studs” and fully reimagined it. The kitchen and garden in particular are her “happy space,” a sentiment that has rung true long before cooking and planting became the go-to lockdown activity. “What I thought was so funny was everyone discovering how to make bread,” she laughs. “No one’s been wanting to eat bread for decades!” But her favorite room is the bathroom adorned with chartreuse tiles and green marble. Property is the other Olsen family business — her mother, Jarnie, was a dancer, and her father, David, was a real estate agent. Olsen actually has a real estate license herself, dating back to a summer job when she was a drama student in New York. And she has one of those curious minds that will take the intellectual route to any given subject. Whenever something catches her interest — growing citrus trees, regrouting a bathroom, method acting — she will study for it. “I’ve already thought about going to school either for design or to get a contractor’s license just to understand better how things need to function.” Still, I doubt she will need to head to college anytime soon. Right now, her acting career is looking rather lush and fertile, thanks in large part to her starring role in

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DIOR top, price upon request. Opposite: TOM FORD top, $1,390, jacket, $3,490, and pants, $2,850.

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“There’s a lot of advice my sisters have given me that I didn’t listen to” ELIZABETH OLSEN

the delightfully creepy Marvel miniseries WandaVision. Airing in early 2021, it became one of the huge hits of lockdown, admired even by those who usually see Marvel as a malign monoculture. Its success even surprised Olsen and her co-star, Paul Bettany, who plays her on-screen husband, Vision. “We really thought that we were like this awkward cousin to the Marvel movies and we didn’t really know if it was going to work or not,” she says. “[It’s] very rare to be a part of something that kind of sparks. In hindsight, I’m kind of in awe of it.” It also created a new set of opportunities for her. She is used to some negative reactions from directors who pin her down as someone who does “that Marvel thing or whatever.” Now, an array of options are before her. She is just back from Texas, where she has been shooting the HBO Max series Love and Death. She plays Candy Montgomery, the real-life Texas housewife who, in 1980, killed the wife of the man she was having an affair with by hitting her 41 times with an axe — but successfully pleaded self-defense. “She’s like the ultimate optimist, caretaker, nurturer, who’s caught in a bad situation,” Olsen says, rather breezily. There is also Doctor Strange in the Multiverse of Madness, her seventh Marvel project but a first for her character Wanda Maximoff aka the Scarlet Witch as the lead antagonist. Filming took place in England during successive coronavirus lockdowns. Living by the deer

park in Richmond-upon-Thames seems to have accelerated Olsen’s Anglophilia. “There’s not many more beautiful places I think in the world than Richmond, England,” she says. She also had the chance to spar with Benedict Cumberbatch, fresh from his multi-Oscarnominated film Power of the Dog. “I’m a huge fan of his and the work he does and so I was really curious to get to see his process,” she says. However, there was more physical interaction in front of green screens than verbal exchange. (“It’s more posturing, more image based.”) But such is the nature of the Marvel beast — and really what made WandaVision, with its mash-up of styles and genres, such a refreshing change — a “playground” for an actor. It arrived at a time when Olsen was beginning to reassess her career and admit to herself that, perhaps, she had been coasting, perhaps getting a little comfortable being a small cog in a big machine. Her CV is hard to get a handle on, split as it is between CGI behemoths like Godzilla and dark and challenging roles like her lead debut, Martha Marcy May Marlene, in which she played a woman recently escaped from an abusive cult. In fact, it was the 10th anniversary of Martha Marcy May Marlene, together with the experience of producing the black comedy Sorry for Your Loss, for the now defunct Facebook Watch, that reconnected her to why she is doing all of this in the first place. “I got so excited to just work for a period of time, but then also there was a time where I got lazy. You just have to kind of admit that to yourself at some point.” She did not, after all, take the easy route to acting, and she easily could have done. Olsen doesn’t remember her infant screen debut at all (“It was my sisters’ work and it was just basically being babysat by the set”), but far from riding on any family coattails she went to every drama class and camp she could and made sure she had proper training before she dared call herself an actor. She ended up studying acting at the highly competitive NYU Tisch School of the Arts, where she became known as the “rehearsal Nazi” for her insistence on doing things with due rigor. She also found time to spend a semester in Russia, studying at the Moscow Art Theatre, where Konstantin Stanislavski pioneered his famous method acting and Anton Chekhov debuted all his plays. “It was really a profound three continued on p.157

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GUCCI dress, $12,000, and gloves, $690.

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Hair by CLAYTON HAWKINS at A-Frame Agency using Dove. Makeup by PATI DUBROFF at Forward Artists using Chanel. Manicure by THUY NGUYEN at A-Frame Agency using Hermès. Location: The Huntington Library, Art Museum, and Botanical Gardens.


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RIDERS ON A tribe of Californians has eschewed the security of a fixed abode to chase the surf in their homes on four wheels. A new book by photographer Matthew Brookes follows in their wake

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JOSHUA ISAAC PEREZ owns a 2001 Dodge Ram Van 1500. He learned to surf at Carpinteria and Leo Carrillo. Based in Malibu, he loves to explore the empty breaks of the Central Coast. Opposite: A Ford Econoline camper.


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North Carolina native “FAIRY MARY” WEDELL lives in a 1979 Dodge school bus. Now based in Venice Beach, where she works in a bar, she previously lived in Costa Rica. Opposite: ZIAN MATEO BOYD lives in a 2002 Ford Econoline with his father and both are part of the Malibu surfer community. They bought the van from their board shaper.


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Feature - Surf Clockwise from top left: ZIAN MATEO BOYD. JOSHUA ISAAC PEREZ. JACK “BLACKFOOT” HILL. Hill with his 2006 Dodge Sprinter van. A surfer in Malibu.

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“FAIRY MARY” WEDELL and her friend Jane, whom she describes as her “soul sister.”

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inding inspiration in the back of a van parked by the beach may sound unusual for a photographer primarily known for his work with the world’s foremost actors and models as well as luxury clients like Armani, Cartier and Louis Vuitton, but for Matthew Brookes, it was part of a mid-pandemic escape. “I moved to Venice Beach from Paris at the beginning of 2021,” the Britain-born and South Africa-raised Brookes says. Once he arrived, Brookes quickly started photographing local skaters and surfers he bumped into, and soon saw that many of his subjects lived in tricked-out vans equipped to house a person or two (and the occasional pet). He was fascinated. “I love to discover people or groups that live a lifestyle which is opposite to mine, or that I know very little about,” he says. “I’m always on the lookout for little subcultures or tribes of people that are not widely documented.” After a few key introductions, the photographer spent the next six months traveling up and down the California coast, capturing itinerant surfers from Malibu to San Diego and learning about their lives. The resulting book, Into the Wild (Damiani, $50), is a beautiful expression of an alternative lifestyle, the kind readers may have spent their own lockdowns dreaming about. Brookes believes that many of the surfers he photographed for the book started electing to live out of their vans — a trend now frequently marketed across social media and beyond as #vanlife — during the pandemic. Some, like Bob Badonic, Lucas Milan Ucedo and David Robert Vizulis, are or were recently teenagers, newly out on their own; others, like Zian Mateo Boyd and Aion Boyd, do it as a family. Some are California born and bred, while others emigrated here from across the globe. All are in pursuit of the same things: perfect waves and the freedom to pursue whatever else they want to do, however else they want to do it. “The lockdowns forced people to analyze their lives and what is important to them,” Brookes says. “I think young people had it especially hard. It’s understandable that they would explore every possibility to have a sense of freedom.” Southern California’s particular take on van life appeals for its possibilities of living off the grid, with less pressure and more room to explore. “When you’re in the water all you’re worried about is what’s happening two feet in front of you and two feet behind you. It’s a really clear headspace. Nothing else matters,” Samuel James Mallos told surf journalist Zack Raffin, who conducted the Into the Wild interviews. “I hope I’m able to surf forever.” It’s a common refrain in the book’s pages. “What struck me the most about the young people I met was how happy they were,” Brookes says. “They seemed to shine with an inner peace. I asked them about it and one common answer kept coming up: ‘We go with the flow and we live for the flow.’ That was their secret motto.” Looks like the secret’s out. X

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KANDAI OTSUKA, who grew up in Japan learning to surf from his father, on top of his 1975 Ford Econoline 250 HP. He sells fruit at farmers markets for a living. Opposite: DAVID ROBERT VIZULIS practices longboarding and shortboarding out of his 2005 Dodge Sprinter van.

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I’VE GOT ALL SORTS OF STUFF TO SAY ABOUT THESE PAINTINGS... MAYBE I DON’T REALLY WANT TO... PEOPLE OUGHT TO LOOK AT THINGS... I DON’T WANT TO CHEW Feature - Schnabel

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When he’s not surfing, Julian Schnabel has been busy mounting a new L.A. show, fathering his seventh child and planning his next movie. C sits down with the prolific polymath who lets his art speak for itself Words by ALESSANDRA CODINHA Photography by AMANDA DEMME 96

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JULIAN SCHNABEL photographed at PACE GALLERY in Los Angeles.

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t’s 36 hours before the opening of his new show, “For Esmé — with Love and Squalor,” and Julian Schnabel needs some new rocks. Sheets of gravel line the base of his over 15-foot-tall sculpture, ESMÉ, in the ivy-lined courtyard of Los Angeles’ Pace Gallery. However, something about the gravel’s sun-bleached gray isn’t working with the whitewashed, cast silicon bronze. It isn’t exactly a small patch of gravel, either — roughly enough to cover a basketball court. But you don’t become America’s arguably most famous living painter by loosening your standards. So out went the old rocks and in came the new, noticeably upping the maestro’s mood. “Well the rocks were gray, and it was kind of abysmal,” Schnabel says when we meet the day before the opening, as hot-pink bougainvillea blows across the newly earth-toned gravel. “Now it looks like we’re in Rajasthan or something like that,” he adds. “You know how they make a red dirt path for you?” Not really, no. “Now it’s more inviting.” Schnabel, 70, pauses to admire his monumental construction: ESMÉ tilts up

toward the sky on an angle, and has something of a flak-gun silhouette; the artist says he was thinking of Francisco Goya’s The Disasters of War — namely the dismembered heads and headless torsos hung on branches. Until recently, he says, this sculpture read INRI, the Latin acronym found on crucifixes meaning “Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews,” but then he emblazoned it with the name of his 5-monthold daughter instead. The sculpture is a reconstitution of several prior Schnabel sculptures, some of which were found objects. It’s a method he began 40 years ago when he went to the foundry he uses in New York, saw the leftover molds and thought they looked better than the objects they were used to cast. Some molds previously used for strangers’ heads appear on ESMÉ as bellshaped protrusions; so does an upturned base of a sculpture named for Schnabel’s eldest son, Vito, a gallerist in his own right with locations in New York and St. Moritz. Right on cue, Pace President and CEO Marc Glimcher wanders over to say the red rocks were the right decision, before slipping away for a phone call. “I’m kind of a frustrated interior designer,” Schnabel says of the

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successful swap. It’s another addition to an already extensive resumé. Julian Schnabel is synonymous with a certain vision of a glamorous, bohemian New York — a place of big personalities and bigger appetites. His huge, million-dollar-plus-selling works made of crushed crockery and painted tarps, and his award-winning films Basquiat, Before Night Falls, and The Diving Bell and the Butterfly, have given him icon status in the art and film milieux. He is deserving of his eccentricities, from the pink West Village palazzo where he meets his famous friends to his decades-preferred uniform of silk pajamas, worn regardless of setting or season. It’s almost disconcerting to see as iconic a New Yorker as Schnabel surveying a show in Los Angeles, like coming across the Chrysler Building in the middle of La Brea. “[Schnabel] changed the idea of what it meant to be an artist,” Glimcher says. “It’s undeniable that there was an art world before Julian Schnabel and an art world after.” Here we are, in the after. “For Esmé” takes its name from the beloved 1950 J. D. Salinger story, in which a shell-shocked World War II sergeant finds hope in a passing encounter and act of generosity from a precocious kid, the sort of deeply wise preteen girl the author was famously fascinated by. Esmé is also, of course, the name of the newest addition to Schnabel’s prolific brood. Her mother is Louise Kugelberg, a Swedish interior designer who co-wrote and co-edited Schnabel’s 2018 film At Eternity’s Gate, set during the last months of Vincent Van Gogh’s life and starring Willem Dafoe. “She’s not a writer, but who’s stopping her?” Schnabel says, quick to note that she’s no slouch in design either. “When I had the show at the Musée d’Orsay she designed all the walls, and when the show was gone and they put the Van Gogh and Gauguin paintings back, they left the walls the way she designed them.” But back to these paintings. An exchange while walking in large slow arcs through the gallery goes something like this: “Well, I mean I’ve got all sorts of stuff to say about them but maybe I don’t really want to.” Why not? “Well, I think people ought to look at things, and I don’t want to chew their food for them. I think you get more out of it if you don’t have the Cliffs Notes.” But Schnabel can’t help it. He loves art, which, for better or worse, usually means talking about it. He’d certainly prefer to talk about painting than his recent shoulder

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XXXXXXXXXXXXXX top, $1,590. The artist stands with his JENNYover BIRD15-foot earrings, $80. sculpture, COURRÈGES ESMÉ. sunglasses, $375. Opposite: ROBERTO CAVALLI dress, $5,295, and shorts, $575. JENNY BIRD earrings, $115. VHERNIER ring, $19,850. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

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surgery (the result of “big paintings and surfing”), or his appearances in the hit Netflix series The Andy Warhol Diaries, or specifics on whether he has plans for any more films — he does, things he’s been writing with Kugelberg. “I’ll make more movies. I’ve got about four things I’d like to do before I die,” he says, without further elaboration. The thing about painting is you don’t have to rely on other people, he says, you don’t have to have all these meetings, you don’t have to ask people for money, or deal with other people’s schedules. The 13 works in “For Esmé” –– many of which take their titles from lyrics in Bob Dylan’s “Chimes of Freedom” — were completed at entirely his own pace over the past two months as news of the war in Ukraine spread across the globe and seeped into his studio. He absorbed the onslaught of news and responded by applying vivid slaps of color and texture on velvet in ways he’d prefer

not be described too precisely. He does say, however, that he likes to make paintings that make other painters wonder how he did the things he did, and tells a story about Albrecht Dürer and a paintbrush with only one hair at the end, or maybe two hairs, given the way paintbrushes work. Why paint on velvet? “There’s no material that’s really like it. It’s extremely saturated. It’s nice to get a given instead of getting a blank canvas,” he says. “You select a color and it’s already factory made, and it’s kind of perfect. And then you can decide. And in that sense, they’re kind of like monochromatic paintings: The color determines. I’m reacting to the material. I’m reacting to the color.” The first time he made velvet paintings was 40 years ago. “What happens as you make art, you don’t want to repeat yourself but you want to learn from what you did and go somewhere else.” He pauses to admire his handiwork, a thickly

painted curve whose layers have been scraped back. “I mean, have you ever seen anything that looks like that?” He says he recently spent an afternoon teaching the director Paolo Sorrentino (The Great Beauty, Youth, The Hand of God) how to paint. He used the same Velázquez-inspired technique as with Dafoe on the set of At Eternity’s Gate, using a finger and the brow bone and bridge of an interviewer’s nose to demonstrate: “Just paint the light.” The finished painting took around 45 minutes and is quite good, he reports. It now hangs in Sorrentino’s house somewhere, and the Italian director “is over the moon. ... He had the most fun he’s ever had with his clothes on.” Schnabel’s been spending the past few weeks on the road. A strike at the port in Málaga delayed the opening of his show “Schnabel and Spain: Anything Can Be a Model for a Painting” at CAC Málaga. The only works that were there while he was in town were four borrowed from some of his Europe-based collectors, including Miuccia Prada and Albert Oehlen. It could have been worse, he says. “I was very happy to be there with just those four paintings. If you only have four paintings for people to look at, they spend more time looking at those paintings than if there were 25 paintings.” His son, Cy, wrote the show’s catalog and sent him a video of the full opening once it was installed. Many of Schnabel’s adult children work in the art world or in close proximity; all of them do if you define movies as art. Was that his preference? “I think whatever they’re doing is fine as long as they’re not in jail and they’re not hurting anybody,” says Schnabel. “One [Olmo, 28] is a really good movie director. His twin brother [Cy, 28] has a gallery and he writes about art, but he’s not a merchant; he’s more of an art historian. Vito [35] is obviously more of a businessman-type person and now he’s acting in his own movie. Lola [41] is a painter. She lives in Sicily. Stella [38] acted in some of my films but I don’t know what she’s doing exactly now. And I have an 8-year-old son named Shooter who lives in New York with us. And we have this little daughter named Esmé.” He pauses. “I like little people better than grownups.” Salinger might say that they often are better. “Yes. Then I don’t know what happens.” For Schnabel, art is “kind of like the antigravity machine. I’m 70. And so between surfing and painting it’s sort of a different mindset. Gravity’s gonna get you somehow,

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but I think I’ve been free of a lot of things. It’s a miracle that I don’t have to cook in a restaurant. It’s a miracle, believe me, every day that I don’t have to work somewhere or do something else. I know the difference.” The artist stops to consider Pinocchio’s Last Ride, a dark-purple velvet painting interrupted by slashes of light, a small explosion at its center. Has making art changed, five-plus decades since he first erupted on the scene? What inspires him now? “I like the freedom of it. I like the fact that nobody expects it. Nobody wants it. I like to make it,” he says, and recounts the scene in At Eternity’s Gate when Mathieu Amalric’s character asks Van Gogh why he paints. Van Gogh responds that he does it to stop thinking, because when he paints, “I feel that I’m a part of everything outside and inside of me.” “I once heard that, not from Vincent Van Gogh, but from an aborigine painter,” says Schnabel. “I always thought that was a good explanation for the feeling. But I guess the way I do it is sort of like playing jazz. You’re hitting these notes and you don’t really know, you’re trusting your instinct. … I want to paint what I don’t know, and if in the process I discover something that I think looks like a surprise to me then I’m good with that.” The anti-gravity machine shows no sign of letting him down anytime soon. X

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Three recent works by Schnabel on view at Pace Gallery (from left): Pandora and the Flying Dutchman; Wild Cathedral Evening or Second Painting for Mickey Rourke; and First Painting.


TREASURES In our summer jewelry and watch portfolio, we dive deep into the Pacific Ocean for inspiration

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Photography by RAINER HOSCH Fashion Direction by KATIE MOSSMAN


POMELLATO Catene necklace, $75,000, cuff with diamonds, $108,000, cuff with brown diamonds, $70,700, gold ring with diamonds, $6,850, silver ring with diamonds, $7,100, and ring with brown diamonds, $24,200.

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TIFFANY & CO. HardWear gold link bracelet, $8,900, necklace, $14,500, Tiffany T T1 gold hinged bangle, $6,500, Tiffany Knot Double Row hinged gold bangle, $7,600, and gold and diamond bangle, $22,000. Opposite, clockwise from top: DAVID WEBB rubellite and polished gold ring, $36,000, cabochon coral, diamond, gold and platinum ring, $25,500, aquamarine, diamond, gold and platinum ring, $38,000, sapphire, diamond, white gold and platinum ring, $68,000, and pink faceted kunzite and gold ring, $15,000.

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BUCCELLATI white pearl ring, $19,500, and gray pearl ring, $11,000. Opposite: IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Pilot’s Chronograph 41 watch, $7,305.

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POMELLATO Stacked Nudo gemstone rings, from $3,600, and Classic Iconica Colour 20-gemstone rings, $5,500 each. DAVID YURMAN Châtelaine pavé bezel ring with tananite and diamonds in white gold, $5,900, ring with Hampton blue topaz and diamonds in gold, $1,950, ring with citrine and pavé diamonds in gold, $1,850, ring with prasiolite and diamonds, $695, Stax chain link ring with pavé diamonds and emerald, $3,500, and Modern Renaissance ring with blue sapphires and diamonds in gold, $2,500.

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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Perles de Tiaré clip, $375,000. Opposite: JAEGER-LeCOULTRE Polaris Chronograph watch (right), $12,400. CHANEL J12 Caliber watch, $6,900, and quilted-motif bracelets and rings, from $3,550. DAVID YURMAN Cable bracelet with gold and black onyx (top right), $975, Pyramid band ring, $395, and Modern Renaissance Pyramid ring in gold, $1,950. Prop styling by BRITINI WOOD. Models CHRISTINA NGUYEN and JACQUES at Body Parts Models. Manicure by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty using Chanel Le Vernis.

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ALFRESCO, Feature - Dior

An intimate garden table adorned with DIOR MAISON’s new lily of the valley tabletop pieces.

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A LA DIOR Feature

Who better than the artistic director of Dior - Maison, Dior Cordelia de Castellane, to give us a master class in outdoor summer dining with the brand’s latest collection celebrating Mr. Dior’s lucky bloom?

Words by KELSEY McKINNON Photography by SARA PRINCE 113


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ordelia de Castellane, the glamorous artistic director of Baby Dior and Dior Maison, was just 31 years old when she began her tenure at the legendary French fashion house. Of course, she never met Monsieur Dior, but she senses his presence. “I feel quite close to him,” she says. “Not about his creativity — I don’t dare to say that because he’s above all — but we both have the same sensibilities. He liked the same things as me: flowers, nature, the way he was when he was young, the way that he had to make some choices that were not the choices of the parents. [He makes me] feel less alone in my career.” Perhaps nothing is more emblematic of de Castellane and Monsieur Dior’s shared passion than the house’s latest Maison collection celebrating lily of the valley. For Dior, who was famously superstitious, the bloom was a lucky charm that was embroidered inside his couture gowns and tucked into his own lapel every day of the year. In the new collection, de Castellane unveils hand-painted tablecloths, water pitchers, wine glasses and woven napkin holders featuring the delicate white bells alongside a series of gardening accessories and baskets displaying another favorite keepsake, the four-leaf clover. The pieces feel equally at home in her elegant apartment in Paris or at her enchanting country house just north of the city, a place that she says reminds her of the beauty of Montecito. De Castellane’s flower garden, which blooms year round, is half English,

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half French, with bulbs imported from Belgium. “My garden is my shrink. It’s my escape. It’s my fifth baby,” says the designer, who is mother to four children. De Castellane grew up in the mountains of Switzerland and hails from a pedigreed background of European aristocrats and aesthetes. As a young girl, she was a frequent figure in the Chanel ateliers, observing her uncle Gilles Dufour, Karl Lagerfeld’s studio director and longtime collaborator. She spent a summer in California as part of an exchange program in her youth. When she was 16, she was taken under the wing of Emanuel Ungaro and continued working at the house under Giambattista Valli. After several years, she took some time away to focus on family and launched her own children’s line, CdeC, before Dior came calling. Now, whether she’s designing a story for Baby Dior or Dior Maison, or working on special projects such as the new Monsieur Dior restaurant in Paris or the opening ball of the Venice Biennale, no two days are alike. “As soon as you give me a routine, things will get boring for me,” says de Castellane. The same philosophy applies for how she sets her own table, which she rotates every two to three days with different textiles, flowers and little surprises, be it animal figurines or fresh fruits. “Of course, certain things will always be there. … You will never find candles at lunchtime or you will never find plastic, but for the rest, I have no rules.” X

Lily of the valley and clover items from Dior Maison. Opposite: CORDELIA DE CASTELLANE, artistic director of Dior Maison and Baby Dior, wearing an apron from the garden collection.

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TABACARU Carolina black-tie swimsuit, $265, now also available for purchase through Over the Moon.

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CONTRIBUTORS ANUSH J. BENLIYAN

LESLEY McKENZIE

JENNIFER BLAISE KRAMER

REBECCA RUSSELL

CAROLINE CAGNEY

ELIZABETH VARNELL

DANIELLE DiMEGLIO

S. IRENE VIRBILA

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PARADISE CALLING Bridal swimwear gets a major makeover

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hether you’re jetting off to the Amalfi Coast for a beachside honeymoon or setting sail to a far-flung island with your bridesmaids for an unforgettable bachelorette weekend, your bridal swimsuit should feel just as special as the rest of your wedding wardrobe. Enter Beverly Hills-based designer Stefana Tabacaru, who has expanded her eponymous swimwear line to include a collection of dreamy styles featuring traditional bridal techniques like embroidery and applique, along with fanciful details like linen flowers and playful oversized bows (both of which detach from the swimsuit for practicality). “I love the fantasy around weddings,” says Tabacaru, who cut her teeth working for British Vogue, Moda Operandi and New Zealand-born, ready-to-wear designer Emilia Wickstead, through whom she met her now illustrator, Milly Jean Wall, who hand paints everything for the brand, including botanic watercolor patterns. The designer also fosters a greener approach to her business by using recycled fabrics and biodegradable packaging and offers an option to offset carbon emissions when placing an order. “Weddings are no longer a single event,” says Tabacaru. “They’re two or three days long and brides have opportunities to showcase different looks at different times, so with that in mind, these pieces can work for your warm-weather trips or can be worn as a bodysuit with a skirt for your bachelorette.” tabacaruswim.com. C.C.

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Author and entrepreneur Alexis Swanson Traina is giving texting a stealth makeover. Her new messaging app, HiNote, is upping our collective digital etiquette by providing a platform to customize, compose and send whimsical, elegant, personalized text invitations, reminders, thank yous, greetings, zingers, far-flung postcards and — launching in May — wedding notes, through the standard messaging and social media apps we all use. HiNote is collaborating with Alexandra Macon’s website Over the Moon to create the Wedding Planner capsule featuring personalized digital stationery with clever, captivating designs and a selection of monograms befitting all of the parties, events and conversations involved in planning and celebrating a marriage. With just a few clicks, everything from fittings and tastings to celebratory happenings on the big day can sport a uniquely personal, eyecatching look. hinoteapp.com. E.V.

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With so many forthcoming nuptials set in gardens — an elegant way to sidestep floral supply chain challenges — Dior Men designer Kim Jones’ Birkenstock collaboration seems not only timely, but ideal for aisle walkers and guests alike. The suede Milanos and felt Tokio mules, created in homage to house founder and avid gardener Christian Dior, include rubber details and buckles that are both functional and elegant. Available in the house’s trademark gray as well as dove, black and fossil, each contains an anatomically shaped cork latex footbed and shoe soles combined with the French brand’s Oblique motif and the storied German line’s bone pattern. For those looking to deepen their commitment to ceremonial blooms, one version of the Tokio is embroidered with intricate flowers and leaves by Dior’s Vermont Atelier in Paris. dior.com. E.V.

DIOR x BIRKENSTOCK footwear, from $1,040.

SOMETHING BLUE Coveting sapphires and navy straps

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1. CARTIER Coussin de Cartier watch, $32,800. 2. CHANEL Première Flying Tourbillon watch, price upon request. 3. HARRY WINSTON Ultimate Emerald Signature watch, price upon request. 4. JAEGERLLeCOULTRE eCOULTRE RendezVous Dazzling Star watch, $75,500. 5. VACHERON CONSTANTIN Malte watch, $34,900. R.R.

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ATELIER SAUCIER cocktail napkins, $28/set of 4, placemat, $28, and runner, $72.

TIARAS OF DREAMS, DREAMING OF TIARAS is composed of 10 ornate, laser-cut, pop-up pages.

CROWNING ACHIEVEMENT Novelist and literary critic Michèle Gazier and illustrator Kristjana S. Williams are ushering in a regal addition to jewelry suites just in time for an extended wedding season that promises to be both lavish and lengthy. Their new volume, Tiaras of Dreams, Dreaming of Tiaras (Rizzoli New York, $35) follows 240 years of Chaumet-crafted headpieces in 10 colorfully rendered tableaux, each featuring one design the French jewelry maison created for a particular era. Beginning with an earthy version shaped to resemble sprigs of entwined wheat ears for Napoléon’s wife, Empress Joséphine, and passing through the Roaring ’20s when gold, silver, pearls and diamonds fashioned as feathers topped a flapper’s head, the volume concludes with curving minimalist loops of white gold and diamonds for a modern bride. Laser-cut dioramas pop up before the enchanting tale of each handcrafted tiara, making the case for heady baubles one elegant era at a time. E.V.

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ARTISTIC LICENSE

Atelier Saucier elevates any tablescape with its impossibly chic napkins, placemats and tea towels, all custom designed and stitched in Culver City from 100% premium, reclaimed, surplus fabric (sourced from Los Angeles fashion houses). The team works closely with event planners and brides to create anything from a couple’s custom monogram to bespoke linen combinations based on the desired color palette using methods like silk screening, dying and embroidery. “When we have the opportunity to design something unique and meaningful for the ‘I do’ moment, it can truly take a celebration to the next level,” says co-founder Staci Inspektor, who started the brand with her best friend, Nikki Reed, in 2018. “And how sweet is the concept of knowing that the couple will have linens from their big night to cherish and enjoy for a lifetime?” ateliersaucier.la. C.C.

BROWS AND VOWS Ready for a long-term commitment? Consider eyebrow microblading, which deposits pigment in the skin to create semi-permanent, realistic hair strokes. Cosmetic and restorative tattoo artist Shaughnessy Otsuji, who recently opened a sleek DTLA outpost of her Studio Sashiko with a team of nine artists, specializes in natural-looking brows. Otsuji employs extensive knowledge of color theory and the Fitzpatrick skin-type scale when choosing the right pigments for each client. “I love the challenge of creating the perfect mixture to match my client’s existing brow hair and suit their skin tone,” says Otsuji. Most clients need two sessions, around eight weeks apart (it typically takes 10 to 14 days for the area to heal). “I always recommend planning your tattoo appointment around a month or two before a wedding to be on the safe side,” she says. studiosashiko.com. L.M.

STUDIO SASHIKO in DTLA, founded by SHAUGHNESSY OTSUJI (left).


W E BAYOU WITH LOVE lets you customize your engagement ring with a sustainably created diamond of your choice.

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In downtown Santa Barbara sits a 1903 Queen Anne-style home that was originally among a row of Victorian vacation dwellings. Now, fully renovated by spouses Jen Huang Bogan and Elihu Root Bogan, the Santa Barbara House hosts intimate, residential-style weddings. “It’s for the right type of bride. You have to have a love for old homes and backyard weddings,” says Jen, a wedding photographer and stylist. With four suites, a caterer’s kitchen, and a front lawn for ceremonies and cocktails, the home is primed for 30-person parties with dinners served in the sunken garden — complete with roses, Italian cypress and ancient olive trees. Says Jen: “It has a European, villa-like feel and it’s downtown, so afterward you can really take the party anywhere.” sb.house. J.B.K.

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1. IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Portofino watch, $7,100. 2. JAEGERLLeCOULTRE eCOULTRE Reverso Classic Monoface watch, $7,100. 3. PANERAI Luminor Due watch, $6,500. 4. TAG HEUER Carrera watch, $2,950. 5. VACHERON CONSTANTIN Historiques American 1921 watch, $36,800. R.R.

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SANTA BARBARA HOUSE: JEN HUANG.

From top: A charming event setup in the SANTA BARBARA HOUSE garden. The restored Victorian house.

Brides searching for meaningful jewelry that’s both stunning and eco-friendly can look no further than Los Angeles-based BaYou With Love. An unwavering voice in the world of ethical fashion, co-founder Nikki Reed creates stunning bridal jewelry rooted in sustainability, all consciously sourced and handcrafted in the company’s DTLA studio. Diamonds are grown above ground using solar energy in California, while precious metals are recycled from electronic waste (with the help of tech company Dell) and refined into something beautiful. Think a brilliant round lavender sapphire ring illuminated with smaller gemstones and a constellationinspired gold band encrusted with star-like diamonds. Now, BaYou With Love is further committing to its mission of giving back to mother nature with a new initiative of planting one tree per order or 100 trees per engagement ring purchased. bayouwithlove.com.


— LUSH GARDENS AND SWEEPING OCEAN VIEWS OFFER THE IDEAL VENUE FOR YOUR WEDDING OR CELEBRATION.

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NATURAL BEAUTY When it comes to dreaming up a bridal hairstyle, many look to extensions or wigs, but Scandinavian haircare clinic Harklinikken offers a healthier alternative for hair loss or thinning. The Denmarkbased company has empowered individuals to unlock their hair’s full potential through a regimen of natural, nontoxic products for 30 years — the results of which have garnered the praise of celebrity hairstylists like Chris McMillan and Tracey Cunningham. Now, with global locations from Germany to Dubai, Harklinikken expands its footprint with its first West Coast clinic in Beverly Hills. Book a consultation with a specialist to assess your scalp and hair quality, determine the best products and create a fully customized, hand-blended Extract — the cornerstone of the holistic regime. 9024 Burton Way, Beverly Hills, 877-657-0100; harklinikken.com. D.D.

5. 1. DIOR J’Adior slingback pump, $1,450. 2. JACQUEMUS Les Carre Rond mules, $465. 3. CHLOE GOSSELIN Kasia mules, $605. 4. ETRO Crown Me sandals, $900. 5. SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO La 16 mule, $695. R.R.

WEDDING CRASHERS The Last Line disrupted the fine jewelry space with its modern, often quirky heirlooms crafted with conflict-free precious and semiprecious gemstones and recycled gold. Now, the Los Angeles-based brand is taking on fine dining. Its whimsical new Party collection of tabletop accessories ranges from linens to glassware and ceramics, all produced by hand. Rainbow colors, retroinspired details like scalloped edges, and charming motifs like mushrooms and zodiac signs — embroidered in golden thread or painted on by hand — make it easy to add a dash of personality to any fete. thisisthelast.com. A.J.B. From left: THE LAST LINE’s mix-and-matchable Party range. Candy etched-glass champagne coupes, $525/set of 6, and Rain-Bow cocktail napkins, $215/set of 6. MAGAZ I N EC.COM

FLORAL PROVISIONS: NAOMI MCCOLLOCH.

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Wedding South Coast Plaza is the ultimate destination for brides and grooms. Discover designer gowns, tuxedos, suits, fine jewelry and special occasion wear for each part of the celebration.

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MARRIAGE MATERIAL Richly textured home accents and furnishings to add to your wishlist

Design Registry

YELLOW PLANTER: BEN KIST FOR MARCH.

Clockwise from top left: WEST HAVES vintage ceramic lamp with paper shade, $650, westhaves.com. MAISON BALZAC Jai Soif carafe and glass set, $89, nordstrom.com. JAKE ARNOLD x PARACHUTE oversize alpaca bouclé throw, $289, parachutehome.com. LAWSON-FENNING x CB2 Soujourn Oat melamine bowls, $10 each, cb2.com. MARCH yellow gloss hex planter, $3,250, marchsf.com. MARTIN & BROCKETT Lillian chair, $3,950, martinandbrockett.com. HOUSE OF LÉON Sofita marble coffee table, $2,150, house-of-leon-furniture.com.

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1. BLISS LAU Minimalist Arc ring, $8,855. 2. BULGARI Serpenti Viper ring, $7,550. 3. DAVID YURMAN DY Lanai ring, price upon request. 4. TIFFANY & CO. Schlumberger Rope ring, $52,800. 5. DAVID WEBB Crossover ring, $21,500. 6. ALEX SEPKUS Candy ring, $5,200. 7. BEA BONGIASCA Baby Vine ring, $8,500. 8. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Perlée ring, $21,700. 9. MISH Why Knot? ring, $3,100.

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Having a Ball

Weddings Feature - Getty

Ivy Getty and Tobias Engel tie the knot with a fairytale wedding in San Francisco

IVY GETTY and TOBIAS “TOBY” ENGEL depart from San Francisco City Hall after the wedding. Ivy wears a pale pink lace gown by JOHN GALLIANO FOR MAISON MARGIELA HAUTE COUTURE.

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Clockwise from top left: Amanda greets guests at the pool party. The bride with childhood friends Paris Hilton and Nicky Hilton Rothschild at the CHATEAU MARMONT. Wedding guests enjoying Neptune Pool. Opposite: Amanda wears an Oscar de la Renta gown made from upcycled materials.

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Clockwise from top: Ivy and friends celebrate in the pergola rose garden. A “sweet” study designed by Ann Getty, Ivy’s late grandmother, continues the Getty party tradition of candies, cakes, truffles and petits-fours for guests to enjoy or take home. The newlyweds depart city hall. A Peña Pachamama dancer performs in the Getty residence atrium. Opposite: The San Francisco City Hall beaux arts rotunda, where Nancy Pelosi married the couple, was transformed by event designer STANLEE GATTI with silk velvet curtains trimmed with gold bullion fringe and thousands of pink dendrobium orchids.

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vy Getty and Tobias “Toby” Engel’s wedding celebrations were among the most glittering ever in San Francisco. The many months of COVID-related travel delays made the elaborate celebrations that much sweeter for the couple. “The whole week was pure bliss, starting with the early arrival of John Galliano and his assistants and seamstresses for my gown fittings,” recalled Ivy of the dazzling parties and ceremony last November. “Our guests — family and friends from all over the world — arrived, and our year of planning came together.” The heiress and model became engaged to photographer Toby in the summer of 2020, three years after they met at a party in London. The New York-based couple’s

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dream for their nuptials was to be surrounded by childhood friends and many cousins in her hometown of San Francisco. Gordon Getty, Ivy’s grandfather, hosted the reception at the palatial Getty family residence in Pacific Heights, designed by Ivy’s late grandmother, Ann Getty. Event designer Stanlee R. Gatti created an Italianate pergola in front of the residence, with a dance floor, rose garden, bars and pink rose arbor photobooth. Ivy’s diaphanous, glittering ceremony gown, pink reception dress, and 12 bridesmaids’ and two junior bridesmaids’ gowns were all created by John Galliano for Maison Margiela Haute Couture. With fittings finalized with the designer, Ivy was free to spend spa days with her girlfriends (including actor Anya Taylor-Joy) and prepare for the wedding week, which included a mod British Invasion party (a nod to Tony’s mom’s side of the family), a rehearsal dinner at Quince, picnics overlooking the bay and evening frolics at the Fairmont San Francisco hotel penthouse. The wedding ceremony in the palatial beaux arts rotunda of San Francisco City Hall was superbly designed by Gatti, a longtime Getty family friend. Galliano embroidered Ivy’s personal story into his veil design with loving symbols of her late father and grandmother, so they could be with her on her wedding day. “The mirrored gown sparkled like Ivy herself and also reflected all the love in the room surrounding the couple,” noted Vanessa Getty,

Weddings Feature - Getty

Ivy’s aunt. “It was a true family affair, with my daughter Veronica a junior bridesmaid and my sons Nicholas and Alexander and their cousins as groomsmen.” She adds, “With all the excitement surrounding her, Ivy was vividly very present and enjoyed every moment. They were truly joyful and immersed themselves in the whole experience. She navigated the week beautifully with Toby by her side.” Denise Hale, who first met Ann Getty, Ivy’s grandmother, in the ’70s, was one of the 450 guests in attendance, along with Galliano, Talita Von Fürstenberg, Rickey Thompson, Olivia Rodrigo, Mark Ronson, Marc Quinn, Balthazar and Rosetta Getty, Marie-Chantal, Crown Princess of Greece and other notables. “Without a doubt, this was the most beautiful wedding ceremony ever at city hall,” Hale pronounced. “It was exquisite, from the string

quartet playing quietly, to Stanlee Gatti’s sumptuous decor and the roses on the landing framing [the officiant] Nancy Pelosi.” Hale especially applauded the carefully planned rich colors of velvet chairs for guests, and the golden late afternoon light illuminating the bride and groom. “Ann adored Ivy and wanted her to have the most beautiful wedding,” said Hale. “The interior of the rotunda is very grand, but the ceremony felt intimate and very private. And Ivy and Toby looked so happy.” X

MAKEUP Pat McGrath Team • BRIDE’S HAIR Bobby Elliot • PLANNER Arelt Events • STATIONERY A Day in May • CAKE Flour & Bloom • DRINKS Rye Bar • GROOM’S TUX Tom Ford

From top: Ivy and Toby arriving at a rustic picnic in the Presidio. Ivy wears a custom ALEXANDER McQUEEN dress. Ivy wears a FACTORY NEW YORK BY PAUL BURGO gown.

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“My grandmother always said the best times are spent with family Weddings Feature Getty and friends” IVY GETTY

Clockwise from top left:Ivy and her bridesmaids wearing custom silk MORGAN LANE pajamas at breakfast in the penthouse of the FAIRMONT SAN FRANCISCO. Toby and his groomsmen. Shoes by CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. The bridal party, including ANYA TAYLOR-JOY to Ivy’s right. The bride’s ring, custom-crafted with Getty family diamonds and a sapphire from Toby’s mother.

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Made With Love For their Malibu nuptials, Sharan Keswani Weddings Keswani and DeepakFeature Ramanathan-create an elegant celebration steeped in Hindu and Sikh traditions

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SHARAN KESWANI and DEEPAK RAMANATHAN exchange custom rings during the anand karaj ceremony.

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haran Keswani and Deepak Ramanathan first laid eyes on each other at Manhattan Beach restaurant Little Sister after connecting via dating app The League. “I remember thinking he had the cutest smile with just one dimple on his right cheek,” recalls Sharan, director of retention marketing at clean beauty brand Skylar. “We talked about anything and everything, laughing in between, and ended up being the last two people at the restaurant while they were putting the chairs up to close.” Fast-forward two years to another special evening in May 2019, when Deepak, a director at a private equity firm, proposed to Sharan on the beach at Point Dume. Honoring their respective cultures and traditions, the couple decided to have two ceremonies and employed Smita Mohindra of Ethnic Essence to carry out their vision. While the couple’s original plan was to wed in Palm Springs, the pandemic forced them to postpone and ultimately choose a venue closer to home so that local family and friends could attend. With that, on a Friday morning in February, eight guests gathered at the Malibu Hindu Temple for an intimate South Indian ceremony, with Deepak’s parents Zooming in from Australia. On Sunday, the celebration continued at Calamigos Ranch in Malibu, with 50 guests, for a traditional Sikh wedding ceremony, called anand karaj. The bride surprised her car-loving groom with a convertible Ferrari for the grand baraat (the groom’s wedding procession) with loved ones dancing alongside him to his favorite ’90s and ’00s hip-hop songs mashed with Bollywood hits. The natural surroundings informed many of the enchanting design elements, including the palki sahib (the structure that houses the Guru Granth Sahib, the holy book of Sikhism), which was surrounded by a canopy of intertwined greenery and pastel-colored roses. During the reception, guests enjoyed Indian fusion cuisine, including tikka ravioli and achari paneer tacos prepared by Mantra Indian Cuisine, alongside drinks like mango lassi. “It was truly a momentous day for us to see so many of our family and friends after a year-long quarantine,” says Sharan. “That extended separation only made this celebration sweeter.” X

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.XXX.

Weddings Feature - Keswani

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Weddings Feature - Keswani

MAKEUP AND HAIR Andrea Vlaovich (temple ceremony); Nida Gazi (anand karaj) • FLOWERS Ethnic Essence • MUSIC AND LIGHTING 3D Sounds • CAKE AND CATERING Mantra Indian Cuisine Clockwise from far left: The happy couple after the ceremony at MALIBU HINDU TEMPLE. A Midsummer Night’s Dream inspired the lush reception design. The bride wore a traditional lehenga from ASTHA NARANG for the anand karaj. ”We focused heavily on embroidery and subtle floral motifs,” says Sharan of her custom gown and veil.

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Grace Gates and Ryan Dobosh make it official in the lush Los Olivos countryside

Family Style

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Words by CAROLINE CAGNEY Photography by ALI BECK

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XXXXXXXXXXXXXX top, $1,590. GRACE GATES, wearing JENNY BIRD earrings, $80. CAROLINAsunglasses, HERRERA,$375. COURRÈGES and RYAN DOBOSH say “I Opposite: ROBERTO CAVALLI do” at REFUGIO RANCH dress, $5,295, and shorts, in Los Olivos. $575. JENNY BIRD earrings, $115. VHERNIER ring, $19,850. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

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race Gates knew Ryan Dobosh was the one the moment they kissed: “It was electric,” says Grace, who met Ryan in 2015 when they were both on the opening team of Austin, Texas, restaurant Emmer & Rye. That evening, the two went to a karaoke bar where Ryan sang Prince’s “Purple Rain.” “I sat in the back of the bar with my hands over my face in awe of his confidence,” recalls Grace, a Los Angeles native. Four years later, while the couple was visiting her family in Carpinteria, Ryan popped the question at sunset. Soon after moving to the Santa Ynez Valley in March 2021 to work with Companion Hospitality, where Ryan is general manager of Michelin-star restaurant Bell’s in Los Alamos and Grace is general manager of sister restaurant Bar Le Côte in Los Olivos, they began planning their fete. “We are so inspired by the food and wine in this region, so I wanted dinner to be a focal point,” says Grace, who decided on Refugio Ranch for the venue and compiled a menu that consisted of their favorite meals from several local spots. Set at a long communal table by a pond, their 100 guests dined family style on robust salads, cheesy arancini and calamari from Valley Piggery, wood-fired pizzas from Bettina and

Pacific Gold Reserve oysters from a raw bar set up by Bar Le Côte’s chef Brad Mathews. Also carefully considered was the bucolic setting: “It was all about highlighting the natural beauty of that space and making sure that everything felt like it was meant to be there,” says Grace, who enlisted Jenn Sanchez to create a sea of bright-yellow wildflowers, including foraged wild mustard and locally sourced Solidago, which formed the aisle for Grace to walk down before exchanging vows under an oak tree. The affair continued with a first dance to “Purple Rain” (of course) and an afterparty that went well into the morning, followed by a magical honeymoon in Hawaii. X

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MAKEUP AND HAIR Blushing Beauty • EVENT PRODUCTION Array Creative Design • FLOWERS Jenn Sanchez • STATIONERY The Vintage Inkwell • RENTALS Table Method; Bright Event Rentals; Folklore; Catalog Atelier • LODGING Skyview Los Alamos • COCKTAILS Simply Cocktails • CATERING Bettina Pizzeria; Valley Piggery • DESSERT Via Gelateria

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Weddings Feature - Los Olivos

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO dress, $4,300. VHERNIER earrings, $9,400. Opposite: GIVENCHY dress, $2,865. NATASHA MORGAN visor.

From top: The tablescape highlights organic-looking floral arrangements by JENN SANCHEZ. The newlyweds take a stroll. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The happy couple. Grace wore a KAMPERETT hair bow. Chef BRAD MATHEWS of BAR LE CÔTE set up a raw bar featuring a selection from MORRO BAY OYSTER COMPANY. The bride wore cowboy boots. ARRAY CREATIVE DESIGN 149 created a charming alfresco reception.


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FAIRMONT CENTURY PLAZA After a whopping $2.5B renovation, the iconic Century Plaza has reopened, debuting a completely reimagined spa experience in 14,000 square feet of luxe, minimalist heaven. The immersive space delivers the ultimate holistic wellness gallery dedicated to health, beauty and fitness, not to mention exclusive offerings from world-renowned experts and international brands. The spa’s signature facial treatments feature Australian cosmeceutical brand Ultraceuticals, whose Century Plaza launch marks the brand’s flagship debut in America. Try the Ultra Azyme Peel for a fast-acting, results-driven experience that uses retinol and bromelain for immediate results — leaving you with smooth, luminous skin. $395/60 minutes. 2025 Avenue of the Stars, L.A., 310-424-3030; fairmontcenturyplaza.com.

FARMHOUSE INN In celebration of its 20th anniversary, this landmark hotel opened the Wellness Barn, a new spa that offers an assortment of holistic experiences, ranging from massages with warm basalt stones and cool gems to sensory treatments with Pacific sea salt exfoliation. Experience wild mustard seeds and purifying clays in a warm wrap infusion, along with an alfresco shower and coastal redwood mist. Enjoy spiritual experiences with healing sound therapy, energy balancing and meridian point massage. Especially popular is the 90-minute Celebration session, a head-to-toe, custom treatment that leaves you feeling grounded, refreshed and giddy, with a glass of local sparkling wine. $355/90 minutes; 7871 River Rd., Forestville, 707-887-3300; farmhouseinn.com.

FARMHOUSE INN: PAUL FERRADAS.

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eady to explore a new city? Seeking to disconnect from the world? Want to relax in style? A luxury getaway that doubles as a rejuvenating resort is the ideal way to refresh and revive. Check out California’s latest spa offerings.

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THE MAYBOURNE BEVERLY HILLS A serene immersion pool with soaring mosaics and sky-lit ceilings, soothing steam rooms and sauna amenities are all part of this stunning, 20,000-squarefoot space. The spa menu offers some of the most exotic and exclusive treatments in Beverly Hills.

Among them, I Am Beautiful, the ultimate facial experience. It begins with microdermabrasion to lightly exfoliate the skin, prepping for optimal absorption of the pure bio collagen mask that follows. Then comes a session of relaxing muscle toning using light therapy combined with a hydrating oxygen treatment. The facial uses exclusive products from Evidens de Beauté, a Japanese-French fusion collection. $1,400/105 minutes; 225 N. Canon Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-860-7800; maybournebeverlyhills.com.

Travel

Top: The rooftop pool at THE MAYBOURNE BEVERLY HILLS. Below left and right: The FAIRMONT CENTURY PLAZA is the first U.S. location to feature the Australian cosmeceuticalgrade skincare brand. Opposite, from top: The Maybourne also offers spa memberships, pricing upon request. A treatment room at the FARMHOUSE INN’s new Wellness Barn.

STANLY RANCH This new Napa Valley well-being resort has what you need to refresh and revamp your life. There’s Fieldhouse for fitness, Springhouse for pre-treatment and post-workout recovery, and Halehouse for total well-being and restoration. The treatments offered at Halehouse deliver scientifically backed results with therapeutic bodywork, aesthetics and movement therapies tailored to each guest. Try the Cryo Body Contouring treatment — Cryo T-Shock offers noninvasive, results-driven body sculpting, utilizing freezing temperatures to collapse fat cells, help tighten skin, and increase collagen and elastin production. Despite the cold, it’s quite relaxing. $375/60 minutes, 200 Stanly Crossroad, Napa, 866-421-5122; aubergeresorts.com/ stanlyranch. 2

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B E A U T Y MOJAVE DESERT SKIN SHIELD Organic Nourishing Oil, $127.

SOUND OF SILENCE

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Beauty

NEEN subscriptions start at $10/month.

SIGNED, SEALED, DELIVERED

Jeanine Lobell, who founded beauty brand Stila (and sold it to Estée Lauder in 1999), has now created Neen, a direct-to-consumer cosmetics line with 11 products, based on a subscription model. Each month (for a fee), you can receive a postcard highlighting five diverse models wearing the same, newly available shades of eye shadow, cheek and lip colors in varying looks. Postcards include product samples and QR codes that launch Neen’s voice-activated app, with a split-screen feature that opens your camera alongside the makeup tutorial so you can follow along. Once your look is complete, you can post a selfie or video to connect with the Neen community — and purchase the full-sized products, ranging from $18 to $25. weareneen.com. K.A.

BACK AT THE RANCH

Home for Mojave Desert Skin Shield is a rejuvenated 1969 Spartan, situated on a 20-acre desert property in Pioneertown. The trailer, lined in Douglas fir and birch, was designed to be the perfect vessel for silent Tao Tea Meditation, and a serene space where founder Patricia Vernhes performs her signature Fascial, a 100-minute healing treatment that targets fascia, the body’s connective tissue. Attached is a shaded, 400-square-foot deck that acts like an outdoor speaker, amplifying the resonance of the 22 tuned bowls it houses for Sound Therapy Sessions. “The three treatments work well together,” says Vernhes. “We connect through the skin, then a sound rinse, like a cellular massage.” All products are made from indigenous, organic and wild-crafted ingredients that are blended in a living biodynamic lab. mojavedesertskinshield.com. K.A.

The Ranch Malibu, a celebrity-loved health and wellness retreat, is refreshing and expanding its offerings. Known for its immersive, results-oriented programs that are designed to recalibrate the mind and body through an intense fitness program (epic hikes and traditional gym training) and wellness regimen (yoga, massage and device detox), paired with a plant-based, nutritionally dense diet, the luxury retreat is now launching its first permanent international program: The Ranch Italy at Palazzo Fiuggi. Just 50 minutes from Rome, the hideaway is nestled in an area famous for its healing natural springs. And if Italy or Malibu isn’t an option, The Ranch now offers at-home programs — The Ranch Integrative Health Plan and The Ranch 360, led by functional nutritionist and holistic health practitioner Bridgette Becker — that promote physical and mental well-being while uncovering and addressing the root causes of health concerns rather than simply treating symptoms. theranchmalibu.com. K.A. THE RANCH MALIBU’s new Barn, a 3,000-squarefoot fitness center.

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SUNSHINE DAYS

WELLNESS WONDERLAND

Products that level up your California summer vibes

ALLEVEN Colour Shield Glow, $52, alleven.com.

JONES ROAD Miracle Balm, $38, jonesroadbeauty.com.

AUGUSTINUS BADER The Leave-in Treatment, $50, augustinusbader.com.

RÉVIVE Intensité Volumizing Serum Ultime, $600, reviveskincare.com.

SALTAIR Serum Body Wash in Exotic Pulp, $12, saltair.com.

BYREDO Flora Kalahari Palette, $96, byredo.com.

PHLUR Not Your Baby Fragrance, $96, phlur.com.

DUNE SUNCARE The Life Guard (out this June), $23, dunesuncare.com.

CHANEL Le Vernis nail polish, $30, chanel.com.

ZUVI Halo Hair Dryer, $349, zuvi.us.

Beauty

VACATION Classic Spray SPF 30, $20, vacation.inc.

U BEAUTY The Plasma Lip Compound, $68, ubeauty.com.

Ditching Wall Street to pursue an entrepreneurial path in health and wellness, Shizu Okusa built a successful cold-pressed juice company while running a side hustle called Apothékary. “Herbs have been used for over 5,000 years, from Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine to Japanese Kampo medicine and more. I wanted to create the world’s first ever ‘farmacy’ offering clean alternatives to overthe-counter supplements full of synthetic ingredients and, ultimately, coupling modern-day Western ailments with Eastern remedies.” Apothékary features over 35 different blends and herbs, one-on-one consultations, monthly Dosing 101 classes and now, a real-life “farmacy” at The Line Hotel in Los Angeles. “We’re creating preventative health care,” Shizu says. “We give tools, products and education to our customers so they can take back control of their own health.” apothekary.co. K.A.

From top: APOTHÉKARY founder SHIZU OKUSA. You Dew You and Chill The F* Out herbal supplements, each $23/ bottle of 12 servings.


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From top: RH One — a 12-passenger Gulfstream G650 — in flight over San Francisco. The cabin features linenupholstered lounge chairs and hand-tufted floor coverings. The RH Three luxury yacht will also be available for charter.

S P O T L I G H T

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limb aboard RH One — a custom-designed Gulfstream G650 with a metallic exterior and the words “Carpe Diem” inscribed just below the cockpit window. It’s a phrase that RH Chairman and CEO Gary Friedman lives by. Now, after more than 20 years with the luxury home brand, Friedman has set his sights on turning the California interiors company into a fully integrated global travel and hospitality power player. “[We started] at the bottom … and made the climb to the top.

… It’s where the air gets thin and the odds get slim,” says Friedman, the visionary behind RH’s experiential retail galleries and restaurants. RH One and its twin, RH Two, will be available for charter through the World of RH concept launching this year, along with RH Three, a 130-foot explorer yacht originally designed by Vripack that’s kitted out with three tenders and an assortment of action water-sport amenities. The trio of luxury toys was given the RH treatment — think warm minimalistic interiors with organic materials, including Italian leathers, European white oak and brushed stainless steel. Importantly, the company’s jets can easily make the nonstop trip from California to RH’s debut international gallery, a 17th-century estate in Oxfordshire, and forthcoming locations in Paris, London, Dusseldorf, Munich and Brussels. Stateside, the brand is about to launch its hotel concept, RH Guesthouse, in New York’s Meatpacking District as it readies an entire “ecosystem” in Aspen, comprising an RH Bespoke Gallery, RH Guesthouse, RH Bath House & Spa, RH restaurants and the first RH Residences. But no matter how far Friedman takes RH, California will always be home base. Says Friedman, “I’ve been lucky enough to travel the world, and every time I return, I feel blessed.” 2

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PLANE IN FLIGHT: GREG WILSON. INTERIOR: JOHN VOGLER.

Home furnishing and lifestyle giant RH is taking the world by storm


Continued from p.56

STATE OF THE ART has such a future-forward direction and momentum in the marketplace,” says Griffin. “Artists are just that much more happy about the potential because we as a single gallery, with the Pace relationship, now have a truly global platform to work with.” Griffin partly attributes the latest growth spurt to the city’s strong museum culture, as well as the influx of tech from Palo Alto, and collectors and artists coming in from the Pacific Rim — but the momentum in Los Angeles has been building for decades. “There’s an ability to take risks here in Los Angeles and I think that shows through the institutions, as well as with what [Michael Govan] is doing with the programming at LACMA,” says Kayne. “There’s a flexibility and nimbleness of the institutions here which is slightly different than more established cities.” “In L.A., I would say the art scene has been expanding for decades but just did a mega jump at the end of the pandemic,” says bicoastal art advisor Lisa Schiff of SFA Advisory, who has operated in Los Angeles since 2005. Years of being in the shadows of cities like New York has been a good thing for the city, argues Joanne Heyler, founding director of The Broad. “It allowed the city to build a contemporary art scene that feels less insular, rigid and pressure cooker-like.” She also points to the youth of the city’s art landscape, with institutions such as The Getty Center opening its doors in 1997 and The Broad in 2015. “What you’re seeing now is an inflection point where significant arts institutions are being embraced by young crowds seeking access, education and involvement, and many institutions are responding in kind. It’s very fertile ground.” In 2019, Frieze seized upon that ripe opportunity. The inaugural Los Angeles edition of the international art fair arrived with great fanfare at Paramount Pictures Studios, drawing everyone from local museum directors to mega collectors from as far away as Asia, and a star-studded guest list, including Brad Pitt, John McEnroe and Leonardo DiCaprio. “Frieze Los Angeles has been incredibly successful and that’s proof of concept of the viability of Los Angeles,” says Kayne. Following another sold-out affair in 2020, the fair returned from a pandemic-driven

hiatus for its equally popular third edition, this time at a new Beverly Hills location. “It’s the Golden Globes of the art world, with the VIP entry turning into a red-carpet event where big-name collectors are hobnobbing with celebrities and entertainment moguls,” says Schiff. “Not to mention that European galleries actually had their owners on the booth! [Austrian gallerist] Thaddaeus Ropac and [founder of London’s White Cube] Jay Jopling among others were present on the sales floor. That doesn’t usually happen in L.A.” Could the influx and increased spotlight on Los Angeles become too much of a good thing? “The once-ugly stepsister city of any good art fair is now the new Miami Basel, but worse, because in addition to the entire international scene descending upon L.A., you already have tons of artists, galleries, museums, nonprofits and other institutions to visit concurrently,” Schiff says. “It’s a lot to do in a spread-out city that requires a lot of driving.” X Continued from p.84

MARVELOUS MRS. OLSEN

Runover

months,” she says. “The theater was the best theater I’ve ever seen anywhere.” But she is clearly proud of her sisters’ rather more American approach too; they have, after all, been working professionals since the age of 9 months old. “I mean I’m in awe of it all the time when I actually see my friends’ kids,” Olsen laughs. “They created a whole different kind of lane for themselves that wasn’t an obvious choice — and they did it with a lot of taste and were really reserved and smart about it.” What they impressed most upon her was the need to keep public and private separate — not that Olsen was always receptive. “There’s a lot of advice they’ve given me that I didn’t listen to and then I eventually listened to it and they were right,” she says. “It’s really annoying when you try to make your own decisions and you’re like, oh f**k it! They were right.” She abruptly deleted her Instagram account in 2020, saying at the time that she hated the “narcissistic cycle” of having to share her thoughts on every issue. But in many ways her instinct is to be open — just in a low-key sort of way. She mostly used social media to post baking and gardening projects. She likes to walk around L.A. as much as she can and seeks anchor

in her favorite local spots (she raves about The Joint, a fish market and coffee shop in Sherman Oaks), though, again, she has to watch out. There are always paparazzi at the local farmers market, so she tends to drive to other neighborhoods to pick up her heirloom tomatoes. That must be annoying, I say. “It is so f**king annoying!” It’s also one of the reasons she and Arnett are now spending more time at their place in Sonoma. “That’s not a thing there and not a place my mind ever goes to,” she says. “If I think about, you know, building a family, I don’t want that to be a part of the life experience of a child.” Not that she is necessarily thinking of building a family, just to be clear! She and Arnett married in secret in 2019; she only let slip when she accidentally referred to him as “my husband” in an interview. “We just eloped, the two of us, and yeah, it was something that we wanted to do just the two of us.” She doesn’t seem too fussed about ceremonies or parties. “Traditions aren’t very important to me.” We talk about how strangely old fashioned the whole idea of marriage still is, likewise the decision whether to have children or not. “I find it weird having children should be a default. It should be the opposite,” she says. We’re not really at that point yet where we must continue making babies, you know? I feel like there’s plenty of us on the planet!” But this is the other reason she deleted her Instagram. She couldn’t bear the pressure to conform, to advertise the correct opinions, to agree on everything. “When has this planet ever functioned like that and why are we assuming it should?” she laughs. “I just think that’s odd. Like, we all come from different places and have different struggles and different experiences of life.” We are back to monocultures again, the need for biodiversity in all its forms. Social media, she is convinced, is the ruin of culture. “It just creates a world that looks like one thing and that’s not what’s interesting about this world.” Let many flowers grow. X

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all the gunk out of my pores after traveling. I also love seeing Iván Pol of The Beauty Sandwich. He makes your face snatched without needles!

S C O

Where do you take visiting friends? You can never go wrong with Nobu Malibu.

V E

What’s in your cosmetics bag? Nars blush in Orgasm; Make Beauty multiuse Pink Matter balm and Blade Line brow pencil; Clé de Peau Beauté’s concealer; Gucci bronzing powder and long-lasting kohl liner; Laura Mercier’s Caviar Stick in Wild Rose; Dior’s Dior Forever Cushion Powder.

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CHRISELLE LIM The influencer is riding high with the relaunch of her fragrance brand Phlur

Where do you live? Los Angeles. Where do you feel most zen? Strangely, on my Peloton after the kids are down for bed and I can focus on me. Favorite park/hike? Abalone Cove Shoreline Park and trail in Palos Verdes. Beautiful scenery on the cliffs and easy enough for the whole family. Favorite beach? Malaga Cove Beach in Palos Verdes Estates. It’s small and quaint and it has a great view.

Zen Moments Favorite health-food fix? I’ve been drinking something called R’s Koso. It is 100% natural combining probiotics, prebiotics and postbiotics plus over 100 different fruits, vegetables and plant-based ingredients.

Do you follow a diet? I try not to eat carbs and sugar after 7 p.m. Favorite hotel? Le Meurice in Paris is my second home. It has a Michelin-star restaurant by Alain Ducasse and the world’s best pastry boutique by Cédric Grolet. Plus there’s the Valmont spa. Favorite gym/class? In L.A. I do Orange Theory every other day and RockIt Body Pilates. Favorite spa? Treatment? Shani Darden gives me the craziest glowy skin and gets

Interview by KELLY ATTERTON 158

Favorite skincare? Clé de Peau Beauté’s The Serum; Caudalie Beauty Elixir; Naturium Purple Ginseng Cleansing Balm; SkinCeuticals’ Silymarin CF; Chanel No.1 de Chanel Revitalizing Cream Au Camélia Rouge; Darphin L’Institut Youth Resurfacing Peel; La Mer’s The Treatment Lotion. Hair products? Kevin Murphy’s Ever Thicken blow dry spray; Christophe Robin’s Regenerating Serum; Sachajuan’s dry shampoo; Ouai’s hair mask. Favorite home items? Le Labo’s Santal 26 candle and Diptyque’s Paris candle; Jimmy Choo house slippers; and Anissa Kermiche boob vases. Favorite flowers? Why? Classic white roses elevate a room and remind me of the Améline scent from Phlur. Favorite podcast? Besides my own podcast (Being Bumo), We Can Do Hard Things with Glennon Doyle; Hidden Brain; and Affirmation Pod. 2

PORTRAIT: KARLA TICAS. INTERVIEW BY KELLY ATTERTON.

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SUMMER 2022


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