Inside OCMA, Orange County’s New Art Palace
Winter 2022 / 2023
Meet F California’s King A of Cashmere S H I O N
COOL VIBES
Cover
I S S U E
JESSICA CHASTAIN Is on Top of the World
A S TY
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URE C LT
IF OR NI
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PLUS KELLY WEARSTLER / BEJEWELED BLOOMS / NAOMI WATTS / C WEDDINGS
& CU
Bulgari
Bulgari
Bulgari
Bulgari
Prada
Prada
Cartier
Cartier
Valentino
VALENTINO.COM BEVERLY HILLS: 324 NORTH RODEO DRIVE 310.247.0103 SOUTH COAST PLAZA: 3333 BRISTOL STREET 714.751.3300 SAN FRANCISCO: 105 GRANT AVENUE 415.772.9835
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R EX MCKOW N 949.689.5018 | rex@mwaluxury.com | DRE 01275953 MA RCY W EINSTE I N 949.689.3550 marcy@mwaluxury.com | DRE 01094198 mwaluxury.com Crystal Cove Customs | Newport Coast | Premiere Parcel | Endless Ocean Views | 24/7 Private Security | Bespoke Compass is a licensed real estate broker (01991628) in the State of California and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information
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Winter 2022 / 2023
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STATEMENTS Kelly Wearstler expands her online gallery of fine wares........................................ 33
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Gold bags that shimmer this season....................................................................................... 36 Five diamond bangles to dangle.................................................................................................. 42 Caviar Kaspia brings its decadent dishes to Melrose Place.................................. 46 Happy 25th birthday to the Fendi Baguette....................................................................... 56
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FEATURES
TOC 1
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What Oscar-winner Jessica Chastain did next................................. 60
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The new-look Orange County Museum of Art, unveiled..... 70 Stems and gems collide in our seasonal jewelry portfolio.... 76
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The homes that exemplify canyon living at its finest................ 86
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Meet Greg Chait, California’s king of cashmere........................... 94
WEDDINGS Fantastical florals, aisle style, honeymoons and more.............. 101
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DISCOVERIES A trip to Germany’s new Lanserhof Sylt wellness retreat...... 127 The must-have products to get you through winter................... 132
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How Naomi Watts stays zen........................................................................... 134
127. MAGAZ I N EC.COM
Gucci
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren
D I G ITA L
C O N T E N T S
T H I S J U ST I N . . .
WHAT’S HOT ON MAGAZINEC.COM FEATU R I NG
EXCLUSIVE VIDEOS Behind the scenes with the Oscar winner who played Tammy Faye Messner and is about to take on Tammy Wynette
FASHION NEWS Our Golden State take on the hottest seasonal styles
TOC 2 JESSICA CHASTAIN DAZZLES ON SET
Haute homes from California’s foremost tastemakers
PLUS TH E L ATEST
CU LTU R E
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Graphic Designer
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Masthead
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Contributing Editors Caroline Cagney, Elizabeth Khuri Chandler, Kendall Conrad, Nandita Khanna, Stephanie Rafanelli, Diane Dorrans Saeks, Stephanie Steinman, Nathan Turner Contributing Writers Max Berlinger, Catherine Bigelow, Christina Binkley, Samantha Brooks, Alessandra Codinha, Kerstin Czarra, Peter Davis, Helena de Bertodano, Rob Haskell, Martha Hayes, Marshall Heyman, David Hochman, Christine Lennon, Ira Madison III, Martha McCully, David Nash, Jessica Ritz, Dan Rookwood, S. Irene Virbila, Chris Wallace Contributing Photographers Christina Anwander, Guy Aroch, David Cameron, Mark Griffin Champion, Gia Coppola, Roger Davies, Victor Demarchelier, Amanda Demme, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Adrian Gaut, Beau Grealy, Alanna Hale, Pamela Hanson, Rainer Hosch, Kurt Iswarienko, Danielle Levitt, Kurt Markus, Blair Getz Mezibov, Lee Morgan, Ben Morris, Pia Riverola, David Roemer, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jack Waterlot, Jan Welters Contributing Fashion Directors Chris Campbell, Petra Flannery, Maryam Malakpour, Katie Mossman, Samantha Traina
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F O U N D E R’S
L E T T E R
EDITORS’ PICKS This month’s wish list
ALEXANDER McQUEEN Jewelled hobo bag, $2,590, alexandermcqueen.com.
W
hen someone is truly passionate about what they do, you can see it in their work. Cover star and Best Actress Oscar winner Jessica Chastain exemplifies this day in and day out. Every project she picks is thoughtfully curated into a master class of a career. In our portfolio, she shines in the season’s brightest colors but can also switch on a dime and emanate sartorial strength in more somber tones. What can’t she do? Featured on C’s cover for a second time, six years apart, we find her as grounded as ever in her dedication to her craft. Speaking of craft, Greg Chait has spun quite a tale while following his passion for creating some of the most inventive and luxurious cashmere in the world. The Elder Statesman, born out of his imagination, could be considered the ultimate Golden State uniform—just add jeans! We profile Chait 15 years after his rise in the fashion world and find him happily ensconced in the rarified world of California cool. This issue, full of wish-list-worthy moments—such as our shoot pairing jewelry with blooms artfully created by The Unlikely Florist (whose creations are also on my wish list!) and a portfolio of unique homes captured by architectural lensman Roger Davies—all proves the point that when one creates with passion and purpose, beauty emerges in all its forms.
CHANEL Première Édition Originale watch, $5,500, chanel.com.
Founder’s Note
Founder, Editorial Director and CEO
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Empreinte boots, $1,690, dior.com.
ON THE COVER
Photography by GUY AROCH. Fashion Direction by KATIE MOSSMAN. Hair by RENATO CAMPORA at The Wall Group. Makeup by KRISTOFER BUCKLE at Crosby Carter Management. Manicure by ARMANI JE’TON at Star Touch Agency. JESSICA CHASTAIN wears GUCCI dress.
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ILLUSTRATION: DAVID DOWNTON.
JENNIFER SMITH
DIOR
Christian Dior
S O U T H C O A S T P L A Z A , F A S H I O N VA L L E Y
C
P E O P L E
ROGER DAVIES
SAMI DRASIN
Roger Davies’ interiors photography has been celebrated on the pages of Architectural Digest, Elle Decor and Vogue Living, and in the tomes of lauded architects and designers, from Tadao Ando to Nickey Kehoe. Now, the Laurel Canyon-based lensman has debuted his own book, Beyond the Canyon, which we preview in “Hillside Harmony,” p.86. The Englishman also captured the new Morphosis-designed Orange County Museum of Art building for “Orange Is the New Black,” p.70. MY C SPOTS • Hollywood’s Musso & Frank Grill • The Wende Museum in Culver City • L.A.’s New Beverly Cinema
Over the past decade, fashion and portrait photographer Sami Drasin has shot the likes of Billie Eilish, Justin Bieber, Taylor Swift, Timothée Chalamet and Florence Pugh, as well as campaigns for luxury brands including Dior, Tiffany & Co. and Prada. For this issue, the Los Angeles native focused her lens on The Elder Statesman’s Greg Chait for “California’s King of Cashmere,” p.94. MY C SPOTS • The six-course Tunisian-Moroccan meal at Moun of Tunis on Sunset • Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards in SLO • Humphrey Yogart in Sherman Oaks
REBECCA RUSSELL
SPENCER FALLS
Rebecca Russell has lent her talents as a stylist and fashion editor to C Magazine for more than seven years. For this issue, the London-born, Venice-based motherto-be did the fashion direction for our winter jewelry portfolio, “When Gems Met Stems,” p.76, in addition to curating the C Weddings Runway Report, p.112, and Statements trends. MY C SPOTS • Vidor Acupuncture in Santa Monica—see Carla for the most soulful healing experience • Shakti Sound Bath in Malibu • Carmel River State Beach for blissful emptiness and sea otter spotting
Born in New Zealand to an orchardist and a fine artist, Spencer Falls came to L.A. by way of Lake Tahoe and Maine. The actor and self-proclaimed “outlaw florist” is the virtuoso behind Venice-based studio The Unlikely Florist, where we photographed this issue’s jewelry portfolio, “When Gems Met Stems,” p.76. Naturally, Falls was responsible for the feature’s inspired floral designs. MY C SPOTS • Sierra at Tahoe is my favorite mountain resort in Cali • Pappy + Harriet’s for sweet gigs and unreal desert sunrises • Great White cafe in Venice
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REBECCA RUSSELL: CHLOE HAYWARD FOR CUUP
Contributors
Pomellato
E M B R AC E T H E SE A SO N
Country Mart
S ART HOUSE
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Interior maven Kelly Wearstler expands her online gallery concept with a collection of bespoke pieces
A T E
Statements - Opener
M E N
JOYCE PARK
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LESLEY McKENZIE
REBECCA RUSSELL
ANDREW BARKER
KELSEY McKINNON
VANESSA SHOKRIAN
ANUSH J. BENLIYAN
DAVID NASH
ELIZABETH VARNELL
STYLE
CULTURE
DESIGN
KELLY WEARSTLER takes stock of the limited-edition artworks from her eponymous gallery’s newest collections.
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DINING
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am always looking for artful and sculptural objects and furniture,” says designer Kelly Wearstler, who has a habit of collaborating with furniture designers on custom pieces for her projects (including Viceroy and Proper hotels and private clients including Cameron Diaz). Now, the multi-hyphenate creative is opening up her black book of sources with the expansion of her online gallery concept, featuring eight new collections of unique and limited-edition artwork, sculptural objects, furniture and lighting. Wearstler tapped new artists she discovered on Instagram, while others are longtime collaborators Wearstler has worked with for years. One enduring partnership is with Austrian furniture designer Felix Muhrhofer. For the new Gallery collection, Wearstler and Muhrhofer teamed up on a series of monolithic terrazzo tables comprised of stones that Wearstler collected from the beach in front of her home in Malibu and stones that Muhrhofer collected in Italy. Wearstler also tapped Amelia Briggs on sculptural inflated metallic mirrors; Grace Whiteside of Sticky Glass on glassware; and Israeli artist Hagit Pincovici on neon and stone sculptures. Each piece seems so different from the next, but part of Wearstler’s magic is finding common ground. She says, “We want to show our community how these seemingly contrasting pieces can live together harmoniously.” kellywearstler.com. K.M.
Clockwise from top left: Baobab Vessel I & II by EBITENYEFA BARALAYE. Bubble Collection glassware by STICKY GLASS. The designer and gallerist. Furnishings by FELIX MUHRHOFER .
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INTERIORS: THE INGALLS, PORTRAITS: JOYCE PARK.
Statements - Wearstler
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AMANDA GORMAN wears PRADA Eternal Gold drop earrings. Below: Eternal Gold pendant necklace. Prices upon request.
A T E M
STEEL MAGNIFICENCE
REWEAVE L.A. Aspen 18 bag, $1,000.
Cool watches to get your hands in
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GOLD STANDARD Finding modern, sustainable uses for existing materials is one way Prada continues to innovate. Case in point: its trademark nylon bags composed of reworked Re-Nylon, an initiative that launched in 2019. Now the centuryold Italian fashion house is launching fine jewelry created entirely of certified recycled gold. The debut Eternal Gold collection presents necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets created with precious metals from traceable sources verified by the Aura Blockchain Consortium, a platform which documents the authenticity of luxury goods. The brand’s first foray into fine jewelry takes inspiration from the Prada triangle, the now ubiquitous logo initially used by house founder Mario Prada. Resulting designs include a pair of puffed angular earrings, a snake bracelet with a triangular head, a heart necklace, earrings with angular points and even a super-sized choker with asymmetrical chain links, all riffing on the theme. prada.com. E.V.
CHIC & UNIQUE
4.
Designed and made in Los Angeles using fabrics and shearling from showrooms at the Pacific Design Center, ReWeave L.A.’s totes are among the season’s most sustainable winter-ready carryalls. Founders Julie Benniardi and Debbie Ouyang use durable interior design fabric samples to create their collections, repurposing thousands of pounds of textiles each year that would otherwise go to landfills. Roomy enough for a laptop and everyday essentials, each rectangular bag is one of a kind, edged in shearling and distinguished by unique patterns not repeated in subsequent designs. Two interior pockets secure keys or phones, and a magnetic fastener keeps each two-handled design closed. Cozy up. reweavela.com. E.V.
Statements - Fashion News 5.
1, CARTIER Pasha de Cartier chronograph watch, $9,750. 2. BULGARI Octo Finissimo Sejima automatic watch, $14,100. 3. TAG HEUER Carrera x Porsche RS 2.7 watch, $7,750. 4. VACHERON CONSTANTIN Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton watch, $146,000. 5. IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Pilot’s Watch Mark XX, $6,150. R.R.
GLITTER BAGS To shine through the season
3.
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5. 4.
1. VALENTINO GARAVANI Loco bag, $4,200. 2. CHANEL flap bag, $5,500. 3. JIMMY CHOO Callie bag, $2,995. 4. PRADA bag, $3,150. 5. POLO RALPH LAUREN Polo ID mini shoulder bag, $498. R.R.
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Buccellati
S S T T A A T T E E M M E E N N T T S S
S P OT L I G HT
D E S I G N
PARADISE FOUND Lensman Firooz Zahedi’s ode to the alluring interiors and architectural diversity of Montecito
A
fter Andy Warhol published Firooz Zahedi’s photographs in Interview magazine in the 1970s, Zahedi went on to become one of the top photographers in Hollywood—he was famously Elizabeth Taylor’s personal photographer (they met because she and Zahedi’s cousin were having an affair). For his latest project, he focused his lens on a much
different subject matter. In Montecito Style: Paradise on California’s Gold Coast (Monacelli, $60) Zahedi and writer Lorie Dewhirst Porter, both longtime residents of the area, offer an inside look at 20 distinctive homes. There are Spanish-style manses, including the first home that famed architect George Washington Smith designed in his storied career, along with architect William Hefner’s weekend getaway, interior designer John Saladino’s classicist abode and a brutalist
Words by KELSEY McKINNON 38
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FIROOZ ZAHEDI
Statements - Montecito Book
Statements - Montecito Book
From left: Inside a 19th-century carriage house in Montecito. A painting by CHARLES HINMAN hangs above a stone fireplace in a 1975 Mediterranean-style home—one of architect WALLACE NEFF’s last designs. A manicured garden features topiary balls and a sandstone-edged square fountain.
“There is no one Montecito style in this Valhalla of the West” MARC APPLETON
concrete home from the 1970s. Zahedi also opens the doors to the colorful midcentury residence that he shares with his wife, art collector Beth Rudin DeWoody, for a dose of Hollywood Regency in the heart of the American Riviera. “There is no one Montecito style in this Valhalla of the West, which continues to be a magical place in which to live one’s dream,” Marc Appleton writes in the foreward. “There are, in fact, many styles to reflect these different dreams.” X
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Clockwise: PHILLIPS LOS ANGELES. Mouth #14 (Marilyn) by TOM WESSELMANN. JEANMICHEL BASQUIAT’s To Repel Ghosts.
FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION
AUCTION STATIONS There’s a new kid on the auction block with the arrival of Phillips Los Angeles, the internationally renowned auction house’s new West Hollywood gallery. Designed by L.A.-based architecture and design collaborative Formation Association, the 2,600-square-foot space showcases traveling auction highlights from New York, London, Geneva and Hong Kong, in addition to site-specific installations, exhibitions, selling events, panel discussions and other artsy
happenings. “The West Coast has played an instrumental role, not only in the evolution of today’s art market but also in the trajectory of the entire postwar and contemporary art scene,” says Blake Koh, the company’s regional director of Los Angeles. With a significant increase in the number of local clients, the region has become an important market for buyers and sellers of art, design, jewelry and watches. 9041 Nemo St., West Hollywood; phillips.com. D.N.
The freshly minted Institute of Contemporary Art San Francisco is technically still under construction—but that’s precisely the point. Non-collecting and free to the public, the disruptive new nonprofit museum is devoted to modern-art-world values like transparency, equity and constant reinvention. It opened in October with Jeffrey Gibson’s “This Burning World,” a multimedia exhibition that invites dialogue with and about the natural world, incorporating both literal and figurative groundbreaking elements like openings in the floor that expose the earth (on view through Mar. 26). Come January, two more shows will join the inaugural lineup: “Resting Our Eyes,” a group show featuring the works of 20 multigenerational Black artists, and “A Weed by Any Other Name” by Oakland artists Liz Hernández and Ryan Whelan, which explores the symbolism of the humble blackberry. 901 Minnesota St., S.F., 415-226-9250; icasf.org. A.J.B.
Statements - Design Art News
DOODLE DECOR
From left: SHANTELL MARTIN. A limited-edition table created in collaboration with HOEK. Martin’s work at KENDRICK LAMAR’s Art Basel Miami performance in 2017.
Is there anything the Los Angeles-based British visual artist Shantell Martin cannot turn her hand to? Having completed large-scale public murals, set designs for Kendrick Lamar, choreography for contemporary ballet and prints for fashion brands (not to mention her own line), she already has a host of collaborators in California, including Google, The North Face and Kelly Wearstler. It’s no wonder she’s decided to move her studio here. Her latest team-up fuses her cartoonish characters and squiggly designs with the Brooklyn-based eco-conscious design company Hoek. The Shantell x Hoek range includes wall art, benches, side tables, desk tidies, puzzle coasters and oversized mouse and keyboard mats that will add style and elicit smiles in your home. hoekhome.com. A.B.
From top: ICA SF’s exterior. A still from JEFFREY GIBSON’s “This Burning World.”
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PHILLIPS: ERIC STAUDENMAIER (SITE); ICA SF: JEFFREY GIBSON (ARTWORK). SHANTELL MARTIN: MANOLO CAMPION (PORTRAIT), MICHEAL FERRARO AND CONOR COGHLAN (HOEK), BRYAN BEDDERF (LAMAR).
S S T T A A T T E E M M E E N N T T S S
How do you say Pink in French?
Photographer Iris Velghe - Conception Luma
Laurent Perrier
The Pink Champagne from Pinot Noir. Chosen by the best. champagnelaurentperrier www.laurent-perrier.com
P L E A S E E N J O Y R E S P O N S I B LY
S S T ysl.com T A A T T E E M M E E N N T T S S
GIVENCHY Shark Lock biker boots, $2,195.
Model DONOVAN GREEN photographed by JACK WATERLOT.
N EW S
S T Y L E
LOEWE Puzzle bag, $3,500.
SO SURREAL
SHARP SHOOTER Prodigious French lensman Jack Waterlot has been taking photographs since he was a teenager in Paris, growing up as the son of a set designer and a painter. In his early 20s he moved to Topanga Canyon, outside Los Angeles, where he honed his style and trained his eye before heading to the East Coast, where he began to shoot some of the world’s most iconic faces in fashion, music and film for global brands and publications, including Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli, Vogue, W, Numéro and C. At just 33, he has released a retrospective of his work to date. My Way (Snap Collective, $75) features shoots with Anya Taylor Joy, Nicole Kidman, Iggy Pop, Naomi Campbell and Machine Gun Kelly, not to mention two portraits of Julianne Moore from C’s Fall 2021 cover shoot. “I feel freedom when I hold a camera. To snap a shot and see what can come out of it. To this day I find it magical,” says Waterlot. jackwaterlotstudio.com. A.B.
Did creative director Jonathan Anderson’s car-shaped minidresses playfully tease the opening of the new Loewe boutique in automobile-obsessed Los Angeles? It certainly seems possible now that the bold Fall/Winter collection designs (including both men’s and women’s ready-towear) have taken over the brand’s artful Rodeo store. New monochrome Puzzle bag iterations, madcap Balloon pumps, dramatic Inflated sunglasses and all manner of leather goods (a house trademark since its launch in 1846 as a collective workshop in Madrid) round out the season’s whimsical looks. Home goods include candlestick-shaped candles and scents created with house perfumier Núria Cruelles. The 3,067-squarefoot space continues Anderson’s dialog between art, craft and design with works including a sculpture by Nairy Baghramian and Paul Pfeiffer’s painted wood depiction of Justin Bieber alongside furniture by Axel Vervoordt. 327 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-3886771; loewe.com. E.V.
Statements - Fashion News COLLAB OF COLOR Givenchy creative director Matthew M. Williams and his longtime friends Brick Owens and Dieter Grams of the streetwear label (B)Stroy are using all colors in a vibrant new collaborative capsule. Owens and Grams, Atlanta natives based in New York, previously designed denim for Virgil Abloh’s Off-White label and are riffing on some of their high-concept mainstays for the new Givenchy x (B)Stroy offering. Denim-draped boots with ankle zippers nod to the characteristic silhouette of (B)Stroy’s trompe l’oeil jeans, while the French house’s Shark Lock biker boots are adorned with a multihued optical print, a look echoed in kaleidoscopic Moon Cut Out shoulder bags and G-totes. Men’s knitted TK-360 sneakers have new gradient blue-green and red-yellow colorways, and graphic prints adorn oversized, draped T-shirts and jeans for men and women. Even (B)Stroy’s double-headed hoodie gets the Givenchy treatment. givenchy.com. E.V.
FOREVER DIAMONDS Pavé bracelets to treasure
1.
3. 2.
5. 4.
1. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Legend of Diamonds Entrelacement de Diamants bracelet, $311,000. 2. CARTIER High Jewelry bracelet, price upon request. 3. POMELLATO Sabbia bracelet, price upon request. 4. BULGARI Fiorever bracelet, $42,000. 5. HARRY WINSTON Winston Cluster bracelet, price upon request. R.R.
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David Webb
DAVIDWEBB.COM T: 310 858 8006
S S T T A A T T E E M M E E N N T T S S
TR E N D
S T Y L E GIVENCHY Mini Hobo bags, $1,650 each.
THE LOCK LOOK A Givenchy Mini Hobo is the key to a stylish winter
Statements - Givenchy
Photography by SAMI DRASIN Fashion Direction by VANESSA SHOKRIAN 44
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Spicy jackfruit “crab” inari at DEN MOTHER : CALIFORNIA IZAKAYA.
ALL IN THE FAMILY
Clockwise: PIZZERIA BIANCO at Row DTLA. Chef CHRIS BIANCO. A Margherita pie.
RISE OF THE PIES Pizzeria Bianco is something of a phoenix down at the Row DTLA. Chef Chris Bianco, who rose to fame with his original Arizona-based pizzeria, returns to the downtown Los Angeles retail and dining hub after his former eatery, Tartine Bianco, closed its doors in 2019. What started as a pop-up this summer is now one of the hottest reservations in town, thanks in part to Netflix’s Chef’s Table, which featured Bianco on its special pizza edition. Must-trys are the Rosa pizza with Santa Barbara pistachios, red onion, rosemary and parmesan, and the Wiseguy with wood-roasted onion, smoked mozzarella and fennel sausage. Bellissima! 1320 E. 7th Street, Ste. 100, L.A., 213-372-5155; pizzeriabianco.com. A.B.
One year ago, Heather Tierney— founder and creative director of Venice’s The Butcher’s Daughter—opened Den Mother next door to the fan-favorite vegetarian eatery. Located in a restored 1930s craftsman bungalow on Abbot Kinney, the healing space specializes in treatments that take cues from ancient traditions, from Nordic bathing rituals to Chinese herbology and reflexology. Now Tierney, who is also the mastermind behind the L.A. and NYC design firm Wanderlust, has expanded Den Mother with a new dining concept: California Izakaya. The alfresco lounge serves up Japanese-inspired, plant-based small plates, like spicy jackfruit “crab” inari, alongside a robust menu of small-batch sake, natural wine, and Japanese whisky and beer. Don’t miss the house specialty beverages such as the Silk Road, a seriously smooth concoction of espresso, condensed coconut milk, garam masala and your choice of milk, available hot or iced. 1209 Abbot Kinney Blvd., L.A., 310310-8905; denmother.com. A.J.B.
OOH LÀ LÀ, CAVIAR At the L.A. outpost of the Parisian restaurant Caviar Kaspia, even the chicest of the fashion pack break their no-carbs rule to feast on signature baked potatoes topped with caviar. Located at the former home of the French fine-dining spot Bastide, Caviar Kaspia brings European glamour to the Hollywood scene; day to night, summer through winter, the restaurant is set around a jardin terrace serving caviar-laden seafood including crab crostini, smoked salmon blinis and taramasalata toasts. The design conceived by couturier Alexis Mabille (see C’s exclusive interview on magazinec.com) appoints plush sofas and a fireplace, giving the feel of a private club, amid travertine floors and teal tablecloths aplenty. 8475 Melrose Pl., L.A., caviarkaspiala.com. A.B. The interiors of CAVIAR KASPIA’s new Los Angeles location takes inspiration from 1940s Hollywood.
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PIZZERIA BIANCO: ALEX BERLINER (PORTRAIT), DAVID LOFTUS (PIZZA), ASHLEY RANDALL (INTERIOR). CAVIAR KASPIA: PABLO ENRIQUE.
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Tiffany & Co. rounds out its lush Botanica high-jewelry assortment with a new bouquet of bold designs
nspired by the sculptural beauty of all flora, Tiffany & Co.’s highjewelry Blue Book Collection for 2022, Botanica, is capping off the year with one final installment that takes the form of wisteria, magnolias and orchids. The addition includes a bevy of transformable jewels and updated Jean Schlumberger works re-creating nature’s bounty through diamonds, colored gemstones and Tiffany’s quintessential savoir faire. The collection is an archival deep dive that delves far beyond the house’s trove of heritage jewelry to incorporate several of the company’s defining moments. The late Art Nouveau artist and designer Louis Comfort Tiffany’s most beloved works, including a 1901 leaded glass wisteria table lamp, introduce a painterly color palette picked up in wisteria necklaces, rings and earrings encrusted with subdued blue
Clockwise from top: TIFFANY & CO. Botanica 2022 Blue Book Collection platinum earrings with blue chalcedony, milky quartz, sapphires and diamonds. Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Vigne necklace in gold and platinum with rubellites, emeralds and diamonds. Tiffany & Co. platinum pendant with diamonds and an unenhanced sapphire of over 38 carats. Tiffany & Co. earrings in platinum with diamonds.
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Clockwise: Tiffany & Co. platinum earrings with unenhanced esteemed Sri Lankan sapphires and diamonds. Tiffany & Co. platinum necklace with hand-carved blue chalcedony, sapphires and diamonds. Tiffany & Co. transformable pendant in platinum with diamonds. All prices upon request.
Statements - Tiffany
chalcedony and milky quartz stones—a translucent nod to the artistry of house founder Charles Lewis Tiffany’s son. Custom-cut diamonds and sapphires arranged in an ombré gradation amplify the theme and capture nature’s irregularities. Designer John T. Curran’s vase depicting magnolias, made of silver, gold, enamel and opals and displayed at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair, inspire a necklace comprised of milky quartz hand-carved into magnolia petals with pink sapphires and diamonds nestled around a 43-carat morganite stone. Platinum diamond earrings and rings fashioned around a red spinel or ruby are also among the metamorphosed magnoliainspired designs. The lines of G. Paulding Farnham’s fluidly shaped enamel orchid brooches—created for Paris’ 1889 Exposition Universelle— are echoed in the custom-cut diamond offerings evoking petal silhouettes in the Orchid Curve range. Naturally, modern Jean Schlumberger florals with unexpected gemstone pairings round out the gardenready collection. tiffany.com. 2
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GREG LAUREN bomber jacket, $3,250, from the MR PORTER In America collection.
Los Angeles native Andrea Lublin, stylist and founder of Andrea’s Lookbook, is teaming up with Joe’s Jeans on a deftly considered capsule including three denim designs and the ideal trench coat for a coastadjacent climate. The Andrea’s Lookbook x Joe’s Jeans collaboration consists of classic silhouettes—15 in all—such as blouses and dresses adorned with ruffles or pussy bows and high-waisted wide-leg trousers created from lightweight denim in dark indigo or creamy ecru. Even sweatshirts are elevated with gigot sleeves. As for the trench, Lublin calls the coat her go-to for three out of the four seasons. “I wanted to create something that was functional, comfortable and warm on cooler days but also a layering piece,” she says, noting the design can be worn open or draped across shoulders. The edited staples make a strong case for a local take on elevated basics. joesjeans.com. E.V.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Atours Mystérieux necklace from the Legend of Diamonds collection, price upon request.
DIAMOND DAZE Classic white diamonds are headlining this season at Van Cleef & Arpels. After acquiring a rough stone, the traceably mined Lesotho Legend, the French house endeavored to create a complete collection around it named the Legend of Diamonds. The resulting pieces showcase a technique called the Mystery Set, wherein grooved stones slide onto their settings, reversing the traditional method of gem-setting with visible metal prongs. Jewelers, setters, lapidaries and polishers—the mains d’or (French for “hands of gold”)—spent more than 30,000 hours throughout four years finishing the gems with the aid of 3D software. The initial stone was carefully cut into 67 diamonds, which were used to create 25 stunning, versatile designs. What’s more, Van Cleef & Arpels also has a second high-jewelry offering: White Diamond Variations comprises 82 designs that update house themes from the last century. vancleefarpels.com. E.V.
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From Jack Kerouac and John Steinbeck to Jon Krakauer, the ethos of cross-country journeys toward enlightenment—or the next town with a great bar—looms large, and now online retailer Mr Porter is curating a capsule of designs to clothe a new generation of American pathfinders. Amid menswear exclusives from over 40 brands, including more than 600 ready-to-wear, footwear, accessory and fine jewelry designs, California creatives play an outsize role. It’s a fitting distinction given the state’s ubiquity in coast-to-coast travel. A slim suede jacket from Tom Ford and Greg Lauren’s upcycled bomber join tie-dyed cashmere sweaters from The Elder Statesman in the Mr Porter In America collection. Other standouts include vintage Rick Owens sneakers, Camp High trucker hats, Jacques Marie Mage x Yellowstone Dealan sunglasses, Napa Valley-inspired looks from Rhude, vibrant prints from Hillary Taymour’s Collina Strada and a pit crew puffer by Cherry LA. The workwear, streetwear, heritage and avant-garde designs all tap into the nation’s collective fabric. mrporter.com. E.V.
ANDREA’S LOOKBOOK x JOE’S JEANS Heather sweater, $218.
BUON VIAGGIO As we collectively resume our pandemic-delayed adventures, Gucci is celebrating our return to the skies, roads and seas with an ephemeral pop-up devoted to Gucci Valigeria, the brand’s travel selection of luggage, carry-ons and accessories. Open at South Coast Plaza through spring 2023, the 4,500-square-foot space is a testament to the notion that there is truly a Gucci bag or case for everything. The concept pays homage to company founder Guccio Gucci, who launched his Florentine luggage atelier in 1921 after finding inspiration in London, where he worked as a porter at The Savoy Hotel, surrounded by the international jet set. The new Gucci Savoy collection of heritage-infused, travel-ready pieces (featured in store) is proof the Italian house is still honing its ever-expanding offerings for globetrotters. The brand’s assortment of leather goods, including trunks, hatboxes, briefcases, backpacks, overnight bags, totes, wallets and purses, are a chic way to interpret the adage about enjoying the journey. 3333 South Bristol St., Ste. 1212, Costa Mesa; gucci.com. E.V. GUCCI Ophidia GG backpack, $2,500.
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Whitewall
Felix Brauner
„Helios Inc“, 2020 Fuji Crystal Archive Maxima | UltraHD Photo Print under Acrylic Glass | 59.05 x 41.73 in | Wood Frame Hamburg, Natural Oak
Bringing photography to completion When an image becomes visible as a print, it transforms from an abstract idea into reality. For WhiteWall, that means that a picture is only complete once it is hanging on the wall. We achieve perfection through craftsmanship, innovation, and use of the very best materials. Our award-winning gallery quality is always accessible to photo enthusiasts both online and in our stores.
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J E W E L R Y FromCAPTION top: DIOR here Sevilla Star ring, $620, Rêve d’Infini necklace, $780, Tribales bracelet, $990, and D-Renaissance cuff, $2,250.
MORE IS MORE Stack Dior fine jewelry from your head to your fingertips
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Photography by SAMI DRASIN Fashion Direction by VANESSA SHOKRIAN 52
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COCO REPUBLIC Navagio outdoor sofa, $3,295, and chair, $1,395.
THE STORYTELLER When Rosa Park launched the travel and style magazine Cereal in 2012 with her now-husband Rich Stapleton, little did she know that her work spotlighting artists on its pages would unleash her own passion for art. This led to her next boundary-pushing venture: the 2018 launch of her gallery, Francis, in Bath, England, followed by a stateside outpost in West Hollywood this fall. Park collaborated with L.A.-based studio BC on a reimagination of the space, which includes a modern take on a traditional Korean hanok courtyard. Francis debuted its inaugural group exhibition, “Morning Calm,” on view through Jan. 7, featuring six Korean and Korean American artists and their interpretations of their heritage. 8323 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323-413-2327; francisgallery.co. A.J.B.
AUSSIE STYLE For over four decades, Coco Republic has been one of Australia’s most influential arbiters of style and interiors, dominating the industry with its design-forward, laid-back yet sophisticated sensibility. Now—at long last—the Sydney-born brand is introducing its covetable contemporary furnishings and homewares stateside with the debut of its threestory, 40,000-plus-square-foot U.S. flagship in San Francisco’s Union Square. Peruse more than 2,000 pieces—from upholstery and lighting to rugs and art—while sipping a signature libation from the on-site mocktail bar, and don’t miss out on their full design services to help you realize the casual cool, Aussie-meets-Cali interiors of your dreams. 55 Stockton St., S.F., 415-820-4780; cocorepublic.com. A.J.B.
Sunrise/Sunset by MADELINE HOLLANDER . Right: JEFFREY DEITCH and DES PAIR’s ADDISON RICHLEY.
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DOUBLE DEITCH Gallerist, art advisor and one-time MOCA director Jeffrey Deitch has expanded his L.A. footprint with a second gallery, located a block north of his Orange Drive space. “I have long admired this historic building, the longtime home of the legendary recording studio Radio Recorders,” says Deitch of the venue, most recently occupied by the nonprofit LAXART. In addition to showing special projects and smaller exhibits, the building also houses a new branch of Des Pair Books, which will host book launches and talks. On view now through Dec. 23: “The Rhythm of Vision,” an exhibition by the godfather of funk, George Clinton, with a stage by Lauren Halsey. Though it’s Clinton’s inaugural L.A. show, it isn’t his first time in the space: “[Clinton] recorded some of his famous songs there with Parliament-Funkadelic.” 7000 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A.; deitch.com. L.M.
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COCO REPUBLIC: GAVIN GREEN. FRANCIS GALLERY: RICH STAPLETON. DEITCH: JOSHUA WHITE (ARTWORK).
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BALENCIAGA x ADIDAS Spring/ Summer 2023.
The trading floor of the New York Stock Exchange seemed lit from within as Balenciaga’s Spring 2023 line made its way down the runway. Exaggerated polished suiting, overcoats and wardrobe staples with oversized drop-shoulder silhouettes (a signature from creative director Demna) made up the new Garde-Robe collection, while eveningwear stunned with floor-length silk trenches, tuxedos and bodycon gowns. Closing out the show, Adidas’ unmistakable three stripes debuted across bright yellow, red and blue tracksuits, dresses, boxing robes and more. At first glance, the Balenciaga/Adidas collaboration—launching with a pop-up at Maxfield in Los Angeles—recalled the colored blazers worn by floor brokers who traded using shouts and hand signals before the adoption of computer software. The stripes and trefoil logos placed above the Balenciaga brand name (itself written in the German sportswear company’s lowercase typeface) demarcate the much-anticipated ready-to-wear, handbags, backpacks, duffels, jewelry and shoes. Let the trading begin. Maxfield, 8825 Melrose Ave., L.A., 310-274-8800; maxfieldla.com. E.V.
ARTY SMARTY Louis Vuitton is tapping a new roster of international artists for its latest Artycapucines Collection, now in its fourth chapter. The limited-edition handbag designs, each released in groups of 200, include Cannes-born Amélie Bertrand’s luminous study of light on surfaces, French artist Daniel Buren’s stark trapezoid-andcircle concept, New York architect Peter Marino’s black studded bag (inspired by a medieval lock box he spotted in a 14th-century Venice building), and Korean artist Park Seo-Bo’s striped offering derived from a painting of the intense red sunlight in a valley by Mount Bandai in Japan. Also tapped for the project are Swiss sculptor Ugo Rondinone (known for his Seven Magic Mountains installation in the desert outside Las Vegas), who created a textural work, and St. Louis native Kennedy Yanko, whose sheet-like paint-skin sculptures are reflected on a transformable bag that doubles as a clutch. louisvuitton.com. E.V.
Statements - Jewelry News BAGUETTE SET
BELLA HADID at the FENDI Baguette 25th anniversary runway show.
When Silvia Venturini Fendi designed the distinctly rectangular Baguette handbag in 1997, wallets, address books, writing implements and other essentials were on-the-go staples. Such necessities are digitized today, allowing Fendi and Kim Jones, the Italian house’s artistic director of womenswear, to dream up a new collection of pocketed clothing and accessories both supersized and miniaturized, in tribute to the utility and elegance of the original. According to Sarah Jessica Parker’s character on Sex and the City, who famously told a mugger, “It’s not a bag, it’s a Baguette,” the design transcends mere purses. Among the 25th anniversary editions, one style acknowledges Parker with her quote inscribed inside; Japanese luggage brand Porter added a masculine bent with its Bum Baguette; Tiffany & Co. created a robin’s-egg blue version; and Marc Jacobs has whipped together sequined designs to pair with his ready-to-wear jumpsuits, robes and tracksuits. fendi.com. E.V.
COIN OPERATED Among Bulgari’s most enduring emblems, ancient Greek and Roman currency are symbolic of the jeweler’s roots; the house was founded in Rome by a Greek silversmith. In celebration of the house’s arrival in America, the motifs have re-emerged in a trove of new yellow-gold Monete pieces commemorating the brand’s 50 years across the Atlantic. Coin collector Nicola Bulgari created the designs in the 1960s and ’70s, and the new line is inspired by his archival pieces individually mounted and worn by Elizabeth Taylor, Cher and Grace Kelly. Each coin is rare and unique, whether set in high-jewelry necklaces and bracelets or in fine sautoirs, gourmette chains, flip rings, tuboga cuffs and double coil bracelets. Contrasting hues of modern polished gold surrounding antique bronze or silver, a hallmark of the originals, look just as bold today. bulgari.com. E.V. BULGARI 50th Anniversary Monete necklace with Roman coin and pavé diamonds, price upon request.
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Altman Siegel, San Francisco, CA Andrew Kreps Gallery, New York, NY / Casemore Gallery, San Francisco, CA Anthony Meier Fine Arts, San Francisco, CA Berggruen Gallery, San Francisco, CA Crown Point Press, San Francisco, CA David Zwirner, New York, NY Demisch Danant, New York, NY Fergus McCaffrey, New York, NY Fraenkel Gallery, San Francisco, CA Friends Indeed Gallery, San Francisco, CA Galerie Chantal Crousel, Paris, France Gallery FUMI, London, UK Gladstone Gallery, New York, NY Haines Gallery, San Francisco, CA Hauser & Wirth, Los Angeles, CA
Hosfelt Gallery, San Francisco, CA
JANUARY 19-22, 2023 FORT MASON CENTER fogfair.com
Hostler Burrows, New York, NY
January 18, 2023 Preview Gala Benefiting the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art
KARMA, New York, NY
James Cohan, New York, NY Jenkins Johnson Gallery, San Francisco, CA Jessica Silverman, San Francisco, CA kurimanzutto, Mexico City, Mexico
Fog Design
Lebreton, San Francisco, CA Lehmann Maupin, New York, NY Luhring Augustine, New York, NY Magen H Gallery, New York, NY Marc Selwyn Fine Art, Los Angeles, CA / gió Marconi gallery, Milan, Italy Marian Goodman Gallery, New York, NY Matthew Marks Gallery, New York, NY Michael Rosenfeld Gallery, New York, NY
Modern Art, London, UK Nathalie Karg Gallery, New York, NY Night Gallery, Los Angeles, CA Nilufar Gallery, Milan, Italy Pace Gallery, New York, NY pt.2 Gallery, Oakland, CA R & Company, New York, NY Ratio 3, San Francisco, CA / Nonaka-Hill, Los Angeles, CA Rebecca Camacho Presents, San Francisco, CA Salon 94 Design, New York, NY Sarah Myerscough Gallery, London, UK Sprüth Magers, New York, NY Talwar Gallery, New York, NY Tina Kim Gallery, New York, NY Volume Gallery, Chicago, IL
BENJAMIN MILLEPIED L.A. DANCE PROJECT MAY 12 - 14, 2023
SEGERSTROM HALL SEGERSTROM CENTER FOR THE ARTS
PHOTOGRAPH JOSH S. ROSE FOR L.A. DANCE PROJECT 2018
ROMEO RRO O &JJULIET SUITE
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BUCCELLATI Unica necklace, $145,000. LOREM IPSUM
What Oscar winner Jessica Chastain did next p.60 / The new-look Orange County Museum of Art, unveiled p.70 / Stems and gems collide in our seasonal jewelry portfolio p.76 / A celebration of canyon living p.86 / Meet California’s king of cashmere p.94
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Feature - Chastain
RALPH LAUREN dress, $6,500. BUCCELLATI ring, $490.
After playing televangelist Tammy Faye Messner, Jessica Chastain won her first Oscar. Now, as she takes on country star Tammy Wynette, she reveals why winning doesn’t change a thing
JESSICA Feature - Chastain CHASTAIN’S LONG C GAME Photography by GUY AROCH Fashion Direction by KATIE MOSSMAN Words by CHRIS WALLACE
omedian Jon Stewart used to joke that fame in Hollywood is like a nightclub with increasingly exclusive VIP rooms, one after another, leading ultimately to the final velvet rope, beyond which Jack Nicholson sat alone, having a party all by himself. Jessica Chastain can relate, she says, at least in one way. After winning the Academy Award for Best Actress in The Eyes of Tammy Faye earlier this year, she went to a few parties but says, “Parties aren’t really my thing.” She would often just sit and people watch, which she loves to do. “I’m quite shy in groups of people,” she says. At one party where she had parked herself on a quiet couch for the duration, the host came over and asked her if he could introduce her to the other guests. “And I was like, I’m good here,” she says. “He was so sweet, and then he goes, ‘There’s one other person who comes to my party
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GUCCI gown, $70,000, and boots, $1,650. Opposite: SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO dress with top, $11,500, culotte, $490, and sunglasses, $420. POMELLATO cuff, $11,400, and bangles, from $3,650.
Feature - Chastain
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Feature - Chastain
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION blazer, $2,890, pants, $1,490, and belt, $390. BULGARI earrings, $10,300, and ring, price upon request. Opposite: ALEXANDER McQUEEN jacket, $3,190, and pants, $990. BUCCELLATI ring, $490.
Feature - Chastain
Feature - Chastain
Feature - Chastain
PRADA dress, $3,750. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN pumps, $1,195. POMELLATO necklace, $65,000. BUCCELLATI ring, $490. Opposite: GUCCI dress, $7,000, and sandals, $1,850. DAVID YURMAN ring, $1,975, and pavé ring, $3,950.
and sits exactly where you are, and they never moved: Jack Nicholson.’” Wallflower or not, Chastain has a majestic screen presence that made for a very splashy entrance to the collective consciousness in 2011, eight years after she had graduated from the acting school at Juilliard, with an incredible run of films including Terrence Malick’s Palme d’Or winner, The Tree of Life, and The Help, for which Chastain received her first Oscar nomination, for Best Supporting Actress. The following year, playing a fictionalized CIA analyst on the hunt for Osama bin Laden in Kathryn Bigelow’s Zero Dark Thirty, Chastain introduced us to the zeal and determination that have become signatures of her characters in the time since. Hers is a massive, concussive performance as the heroic and tarnished leader of Team America, effectively, for which she received a Golden Globe for Best Actress and her first Oscar nomination for the same category—in a film that has gone on to become one of the most talked about and second-guessed American films since 9/11. None of which is incidental to Chastain, who has said that filmmaking is a political act, a line she attributes to Jean-Luc Godard. And, incidentally, when I begin to ask how we ought to think about Zero Dark Thirty now—about whether the film should be diminished in our estimation by claims that it is an instrument of CIA propaganda and misrepresents the effectiveness (and so endorses the cost benefits of) torture— Chastain wants me to know that those lines
it,” she says. I also seem to remember the film being recognized as a watershed for women in Hollywood: produced by Megan Ellison’s Annapurna Pictures, directed by Bigelow, and with Chastain front and center. But, she says, “it wasn’t marketed that way at all. I wasn’t even on the poster.” This, of course, is astonishing now, especially knowing just how deep in the nesting club of fame and power Chastain is. It’s a position she has been using both to make the kinds of films she’d like to see and to center women in the kinds of movies that have historically ignored them (as stars and as an audience). This year we finally got to see The 355, a film Chastain co-produced that is not unlike the action thrillers Taken or John Wick, which created booming second acts for craggy middle-aged male movies stars—though The 355 stars Chastain, Diane Kruger, Fan Bingbing, Lupita Nyong’o and Penélope Cruz as the superspies. It, and they, kick a lot of ass, both on screen and, as Chastain says, in the real-life boardrooms behind the scenes. “I had the idea [for the film] right around the time of the MeToo movement and Time’s Up,” Chastain says now. “When this industry had been, for years, discarding women at a certain age and determining whether or not they were sexually desirable, and they were more ornaments than artists. And I was like, ‘Well, what happens if they’re actually the bosses? What happens if they are the ones in charge of the films?’ And by creating the structure of selling the film and making the film, I took the power out of some guy sitting in an office building somewhere
“I like to meditate, do yoga.-That to Feature Chastain me is a luxury, because in my job it’s the opposite of quiet” J E S S I C A C H A S TA I N of thinking were introduced to the discourse by a competitor in that year’s Oscars race, someone involved in a competing campaign who she says is no longer in the industry. “I know about the criticism, and I disagree with
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and put it in the artist’s hands. And it actually was an easy thing to do. I mean, it was a lot of work, but more movies can be made like that. And more actors and actresses in particular should be making movies like that—where they have ownership in their work.” To further illustrate the point, she brings up the example of Charlie Chaplin’s United Artists, a filmmaker-founded and -owned studio that became a powerful force in the industry, making and selling Chaplin’s films, among others. “They took [the power] and put it in their own hands,” Chastain says. “And any kind of coalition where you sell foreign rights, you are the studio then. Your value is your name and what you’ve done. And now you’re an owner of it. You haven’t just been a technician for hire. You are an owner.” Chastain’s company is bringing out Mother’s Instinct, a thriller in which she and Anne Hathaway co-star, and the miniseries George & Tammy, in which she and Michael Shannon play the country singers George Jones and Tammy Wynette. Known as the first lady of country music, Wynette in her prime had the kind of five-story-tall hairdo and massive persona that might have been the stuff of camp in television biopics of yore. But knowing just how humanely and intensely Chastain approached the last real-life Tammy she had portrayed, we reckon the singer, most famous for crooning “Stand By Your Man,” is in the best hands imaginable. (She is also the co-lead in a fictionalized account of the serial killer Charles Cullen, played by Eddie Redmayne, in The Good Nurse on Netflix.) The Eyes of Tammy Faye had been a passion project of Chastain’s for a decade, and her performance earned her a third Oscar nomination, and her first trophy, earlier this year. At my request, she takes a moment to think about that fact: that she is the reigning Academy Award winner for Best Actress. And quite quickly she waves it away, ready to get back to work—though she does allow that the award means a lot to her family. “Winning this year is so nice because my family has worked so hard,” she says. “They’ve seen me want to do this since I was a little kid. And to have that global recognition, especially for a project that I secured the rights for 10 years ago, it was a big deal. But in terms of my trajectory as an actress, it doesn’t really go, ‘Oh, now I have these new opportunities.’” She still gets the same scripts. She is still the little girl who wanted to be an actress as far back as she
“When this industry had been discarding women at a certain age, I was like, ‘Well,what happens if they’re actually the bosses?’” J E S S I C A C H A S TA I N
can remember, who, she says, felt she was in possession of a surplus of emotion or a facility to access them. And I like to imagine her as an elementary school student in the golden glow of California sun, rounding up her childhood schoolmates to put on performances… Chastain grew up in Sacramento. She characterizes her childhood as “tough” and later says, “We were very poor.” She does not elaborate, and the way she doesn’t speak seems to speak very loudly. It has been mentioned that she and her late father were estranged, that she and her siblings and mother struggled to afford food, and that she lost a sister to suicide nearly two decades ago—so maybe no more needs to be said. She speaks with some awe about how difficult it must have been for her mother, and says she is incredibly grateful for the experiences she’s had, for the perspective her life has given her. We wonder aloud about how her early life may have shaped her, both as a person and as an artist, tuning her instrument. And the way she describes it, her childhood, the austerity and challenges and her feelings of isolation then, she says, made her very sensitive to other people’s energy, the way you would be if others pose potential threats. Like an empath, or an actor, she is very absorbent of other people’s energy. And, she says, “I believe that porousness comes from a sense of … I go into a room and I’m immediately like, ‘Is there an element of danger in this room?’” Chastain remembers a time early in her
life when she was living in Santa Monica, near Third Street Promenade, when she felt so intensely her thrill at the work of acting, how much she wanted to make a living doing it, on stage and screen. And she talks about returning there some time later, when she could hardly go around on the street without being recognized, and standing in front of the building that she once called home. She could feel all the feelings come rushing back. There is a wonderful mix of humility and pride as she tells this story, a California girl made good. Really, really good. Chastain’s husband, Gian Luca Passi de Preposulo, with whom she has two children, is an Italian fashion executive (and an Italian count), and they regularly travel to Italy to see his family. But their home is New York, where Chastain has lived ever since winning the Robin Williams-funded scholarship to Juilliard, where she befriended, among others, her frequent collaborator and viral clip co-star Oscar Isaac. Her mother and stepfather have since moved away from the Sacramento area, and so when Chastain does come back to the Golden State, it is mostly to L.A. for work and to its surrounding mountains for relaxation. “I’m a huge fan of spas,” she says, “and I love hiking.” She has spent time at The Ranch Malibu, a wellness retreat, and similarly loves the health spa Lanserhof in Austria. “I love quiet,” she says. “I like to meditate, do yoga. That to me is a luxury, because in my job it’s the opposite of quiet. It’s chaos.” •
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VALENTINO cape, $6,600. BUCCELLATI rings, from $490. Prop styling by ISAIAH WEISS. Hair by RENATO CAMPORA at The Wall Group. Makeup by KRISTOFER BUCKLE at Crosby Carter Management. Manicure by ARMANI JE’TON at Star Touch Agency.
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Fourteen years and 17 designs later, the expanded Orange County Museum of Art is finally open. Architect Thom Mayne of Morphosis and director Heidi Zuckerman tell why California’s sublime new-look art institution is a world-beater Photography by ROGER DAVIES Words by STEPHANIE RAFANELLI
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n 2006, Richard Serra installed his site-specific, 65-foot-tall weatherproofed steel sculpture beside an empty 1.64 acre site—the only free lot left at the Segerstrom Center for the Arts in Costa Mesa, next to the Renée & Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall. It was prophetically entitled Connector, and only now can its meaning be fully understood. In October, the new Orange County Museum of Art building—14 years, 17 designs and $94 million in the making—finally opened on that adjacent lot donated by the Segerstrom family, the arts-supporting owners of South Coast Plaza. Designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Thom Mayne of Culver City’s Morphosis, the dynamic community-focused urban space promises to be a new connective center of suburban Orange County and a prototype for 21st-century museums. It also completes the plumb line of star architect-designed Californian art institutions: From the newly renovated Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego by Selldorf Architects to LACMA’s ongoing redesign by Pritzker Prize winner Peter Zumthor (set to be completed in 2024) to Snøhetta’s expansion of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art in 2016. “We fill in a geographic gap for
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ORANGE IS THE NEW BLACK
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Sitting adjacent to South Coast Plaza, the 53,000-squarefoot site was designed by MORPHOSIS to include a piazza for exterior exhibits— including SANFORD BIGGERS’ Of Many Waters sculpture (pictured)—and an undulating glass-and-terracotta-tiled facade so that some art is visible from street level.
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contemporary art and culture in California,” says Heidi Zuckerman, OCMA’s dynamo CEO and director, who since January 2021 has turbocharged the last phase of construction, after ground was broken nearly two years earlier. Like the final beam in an architectural topping-out ceremony, the groundbreaking upgrade of the historic Southern California institution is the final brick in California’s status as a world-class art destination, the culmination of a series of developments given critical mass by the launch of the international art fair Frieze Los Angeles in 2019. But the last piece is never easy to find—or build. The story of OCMA’s expansion is an episodic affair that runs parallel to the history of Orange County. Born as the Balboa Pavilion Gallery in the eponymous Newport Beach building (now a historic landmark) in 1962, the museum was founded by a group of 13 radical women who wanted to give a home to a new breed of postwar West Coast artists, many graduating from SoCal’s art schools. In 1968, it jointly showed pop artists Joe Goode and Ed Ruscha, graduates of Chouinard Art Institute (now absorbed into the California Institute of the Arts), where they studied under Robert Irwin of the Light and Space Movement. In 1977, the ever-expanding gallery, renamed the Newport Harbor Art Museum, moved to a new space on San Clemente Drive near Fashion Island—a shopping center developed
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“We fill in a geographic gap for contemporary art and culture in California” HEIDI ZUCKERMAN
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The 10,000-square-foot upper plaza space is reached by a grand, sky-lit public staircase. Opposite, from top: ORANGE COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART CEO and Director HEIDI ZUCKERMAN with architect THOM MAYNE of Morphosis. The interior houses a 4,500-strong permanent collection including works by CATHERINE OPIE, STERLING RUBY and JOHN BALDESSARI.
OCMA features 25,000 square feet of connective gallery spaces with retractable walls and a mezzanine to accommodate traveling shows. Below: Surfing on Acid by MARY HEILMANN from the inaugural “13 Women” exhibition. Opposite: The piazza and light-filled atrium when viewed from the mezzanine bridge.
by The Irvine Company and opened in 1967, the same year that the Segerstrom family debuted South Coast Plaza, a premier mall built on a portion of their farmland. The appointment of 27-year-old Paul Schimmel—future chief curator of MOCA—in 1981 significantly raised the bar, expanding the permanent collection with contemporary West Coast artists like Robert Irwin, L.A. painter John Altoon, John Baldessari, Vija Celmins and James Turrell, as well as the introduction of what was then called the Newport Biennial (now known as the California Biennial) for newly emerging artists. After a problematic short-lived merger with the Laguna Art Museum, the gallery was renamed the Orange County Museum of Art
in 1997, and later helmed by director Dennis Szakacs and curator Elizabeth Armstrong. “Liz Armstrong explained to me that OCMA has been like a perpetual start-up,” says Zuckerman, who grew up in Palo Alto and later held a senior curatorial position at Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive. “When the museum was founded 60 years ago, Orange County itself was nascent.” By the time the Segerstrom family had deeded the land to the museum in 2008 and Morphosis won the competition to build a new OCMA, effectively doubling its exhibition space, the population of Orange Country was reaching 3 million and South Coast Plaza was (and still is) the biggest mall on the West Coast, with Chanel, Gucci and Prada among its luxury stores. But the ambitious project was blighted by a decade of delays, changes in leadership and therefore direction. Not too long after David Cameron became chief curator, Szakacs resigned from his post as director and CEO in 2013 and was later replaced by Todd Smith, who then departed in 2020, after which Zuckerman was courted as the person to finish the job. (She had previously transformed the Aspen Art Museum into a world-class institution and, as director, oversaw the ground-up construction of its new building, designed by another Pritzker Prize holder, Shigeru Ban.) It wasn’t until 2018, four years after the Aspen Art Museum was completed, that Mayne’s highly anticipated plans for the OCMA building were finally unveiled and the
Newport Beach site closed its doors. In the interim, the museum opened its temporary location, dubbed OCMAExpand—Santa Ana, in South Coast Plaza Village. By that time, Morphosis, founded by Mayne in 1972 at the intersection of urbanism and architecture, had evolved as a practice, and Mayne’s vision for the museum had shifted. “Those 14 years produced something that we couldn’t have produced otherwise, an opportunity to understand the nature of the work,” says the 78-year-old maverick architect. “[That had] very specific idiosyncratic notions of a museum, that was specific to this time, place, community and culture, specifically Orange County, which is a very young, dispersed place that doesn’t have a traditional center.” All this was placed within the set architectural context of the Segerstrom Center for the Arts campus, which includes the Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall by Argentine architect César Pell, the Argyros Plaza (redesigned by Michael Maltzan), and of course, Serra’s sculpture. “We were with Serra [on this idea that] it had to be about relationships and connectivity. Not another architectural object of desire, designed by particular chosen architects about Architecture with a capital A. [I have the] highest regard for buildings that seem inevitable, like they belong.” The game changers for the evolving design were Morphosis’ completion of New York’s 41 Cooper Square (2009) and the Perot Museum of Nature and Science in Dallas (2012)—both built as broad, public urban spaces with central atriums. “In some ways, we developed the OCMA project as a piazza, not even a building, with an energetic piece that activated [the gallery],” says Mayne. The 53,000-square-foot space features an undulating terracotta facade and light-filled atrium, above which hovers a dynamic sculptural education center designed to entice and inspire, not backroom, young art fans. The 10,000-square-foot upper plaza space is reached by a grand public staircase, “which is purposefully symbolic. It belongs to the Met, the New York Public Library; it’s urban.” Meanwhile, all traditional physical barriers to entry were removed to make the museum more accessible, some art visible from street level without the need to enter the building. The interior features 25,000 square feet of grand, connective Continued on p.133
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XXXXXXXXXXXXXX top, $1,590. JENNY BIRD earrings, $80. COURRÈGES sunglasses, $375. Opposite: ROBERTO CAVALLI dress, $5,295, and shorts, $575. JENNY BIRD earrings, $115. VHERNIER ring, $19,850. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN pumps, $795.
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The latest jewels from the world’s leading luxury houses spring to life when paired with the abundant wintertime blooms of California
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Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Fashion Direction by REBECCA RUSSELL Floral Design by THE UNLIKELY FLORIST 76
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BUCCELLATI (left hand) Coloured cocktail ring, $39,000, and Tulle watch, $93,000; (right hand) Coloured cocktail ring, $55,000.
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WHEN GEMS MET STEMS
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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Moments de Chance clip, $174,000, Perlée Couleurs rings, from $8,800, and Perlée Toi & Moi watch, $31,000. Opposite: BULGARI Divas’ Dream necklace, $89,000, and ring, $12,300.
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DAVID WEBB Asheville necklace, price upon request, and bracelet, $29,500. Opposite: POMELLATO (left hand, from top) Ritratto ring, $12,400, Iconia ring, $3,880, Nudo blue topaz and diamond bracelet, $10,300, Iconia brown diamond bangle, $16,500, and Nudo obsidian and black diamond bracelet, $8,500; (right hand, from left) Catene ring, $13,000, and Nudo ring, $7,400, Iconia rose gold bangle, $9,200, and Iconia diamond bangle, $25,000; and Nudo blue topaz and diamond necklace, $39,500.
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HARRY WINSTON Winston Candy rings and Emerald timepieces, prices upon request.
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CARTIER Clash de Cartier ring, $11,500, Pasha de Cartier watch, $22,000, and Clash de Cartier bracelet, $41,000. Opposite: IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Portofino Automatic 34 watch, $13,500. HEATHER B. MOORE rings, from $2,700. Model AMOT NAGEL at Closeup Models. Manicure by MERRICK FISHER at Opus Beauty using Chanel Le Vernis. Location THE UNLIKELY FLORIST in Venice, theunlikelyflorist.com.
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Along California’s undulating coastal canyons, these architectural marvels—designed in tune with their surroundings—are celebrated in a new book Photography and words by ROGER DAVIES 86
The Segel House on Carbon Beach, Malibu, designed by JOHN LAUTNER and built in 1979.
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Nature permeates the shell-like Segel House: plants grow along board-formed, wood grain-imprinted walls and sweeping windows bring in the ocean and sky. Opposite: In designing the interiors of the Segel House, decorator WALDO FERNANDEZ respected Lautner’s original vision.
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n a land of earthquakes, fires and mudslides, it’s dangerous to fall in love with a house—but houses can cast a spell on you. This is California, and of course there are surfers and sunsets and sports cars, but there is also a concentration of raw creative ambition and a passion for design unlike anywhere else. The homes in Beyond the Canyon: Inside Epic California Homes (Monacelli, $65) were created by artists of all kinds striving to push the limits, to live in extremes—of both architecture and landscape—and to experiment with ways of living in search of an idyll. Over time the rhythms of the Golden State have become familiar, closely recorded through my camera. I’ve learned how to anticipate whether the ocean’s morning marine layer will burn off; how to account for May Gray and June Gloom; that the best light in the harsh Palm Desert arrives, as if by the flick of a switch, just after the sun falls behind the mountains, and the gorgeous glow of the dusk lasts forever; and that the winds on the cliffs above Santa Barbara will whisk a
drone right into the Pacific. Though it’s fair to say that the weather near the Golden Gate Bridge is a mystery to all. Even after more than 20 years as a working photographer, things never get dull. I see all sorts of things—pictures with presidents, any number of Oscars (and even an EGOT), and once, sex toys left out in the bedroom. Art on opposing sides of a toilet door: a Frank Stella on one side and a de Kooning on the other. I’ve seen ex-Navy SEALs who are now private security guards suddenly emerge from the bushes. I’ve seen the Maltese Falcon, sniper rifles, live rattlesnakes, dinosaur skulls, doomsday bunkers and safe rooms but never enough cats—no one ever has cats. I’ve seen bulletproof cars, a Second World War Nazi Enigma cypher machine, and a steel briefcase with foam lining cradling a 1976 BASF cassette tape containing the original Apple operating system, with the handwritten inscription, “Good Luck.” When I photograph homes in California, more than anywhere else, every day is different, and no two houses are alike.
“... in California, more than anywhere else, every day is different, and no two houses are alike” R O G E R DAVI E S
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Clockwise from top: The original 1952 RICHARD NEUTRA-designed Serulnic House on the 6-acre Pittman Dowell property in La Crescenta sits atop a hill overlooking a thriving cactus garden. A 12-foot-tall HARRY BERTOIA Sonambient sound sculpture displayed in the front entry hall of The Shaw House in Big Sur. The only two doors inside the 2009 heptagonal Pittman Dowell Residence in La Crescenta, designed by MICHAEL MALTZAN, close off a powder room and a laundry room—otherwise privacy is ensured by the angles of the walls.
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The living room of the Shaw House in Big Sur, built by architect and conservationist WILL SHAW in 1967 from lumber reclaimed from the dismantled Dolan Creek Bridge.
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From top: Works by ANDY WARHOL, CHUCK CLOSE and DONALD JUDD are among the art inside Ca Tana, the home of interior designer ROGER THOMAS and his partner ART LIBERA. Opposite: Designed by Bay Area architect DANIEL SOLOMON, Ca Tana sits on a hillside in Marin County. Text and photographs excerpted from Beyond the Canyon: Inside Epic California Homes by ROGER DAVIES, out November.
“My job is to document a brief moment in the life of a home” R O G E R DAVI E S
A midcentury modern might be nestled next to a Craftsman’s bungalow, a Spanish colonial, or a Tuscarranean (my wife’s name for the unfortunate hybrid that pops up far too often). You see homes that are loved, homes with history, passion projects and follies, often in extremes. There are houses suspended on stilts and tranquil wooden masterpieces nestled into the hillsides, expansive glass windows cut into rock, columns of Mayan Revival carvings—designs that embrace very specific landscapes, microclimates and lifestyles. Often architecture, interior design, sculpture, art and environment merge in different ways, and the dreamy California weather blurs the boundary between inside and out even further. I’m in awe of the design-loving addicts whose devotion to interiors and architecture has led to them living in—and serving as custodians of—these masterpieces. My job is to document a brief moment in the life of a home. In time the houses will
evolve into something different from what they were in the instant I caught them. They will be redecorated and relandscaped, Grandma’s knickknacks will move in, and the teenager will paint their room black. They will be sold, torn down and, as in the case of one house in this book, lost to a wildfire, but for the blink of an eye that I get to spend in these astonishing homes, they are glorious. 2
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CALIFORNIA’S KING OF CASHMERE
For Greg Chait, being the founder of The Elder Statesman brand is more than a job, it’s a calling. Here he tells us about making clothes in the time-honored tradition and the importance of a product with soul
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Photography by SAMI DRASIN Fashion Direction by VANESSA SHOKRIAN Words by MAX BERLINGER 94
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GREG CHAIT wears THE ELDER STATESMAN Simple Crew sweater, $995 (other items his own).
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Dye master ARIEL MALMAZADA wears THE ELDER STATESMAN Zig Dye sweater, $1,695, and Classic Crop Pant, $995. Head linker TINA HONG CHEN wears Ultra Stripe Smoking Jacket, $2,290, and Classic Lounge Pant, $955. E-commerce assistant MICHAEL CAMPOS wears Jolly Stripe Crew sweater, $1,195, Heavy Shorts, $7 75, Ranger Beanie, $395, and OLIVER 96 sunglasses. PEOPLES
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The 1,600-square-foot store at 607 Huntley Drive opened in 2014 but this year had a refresh, with warm alder wood finishing added throughout the exterior and a complete overhaul of its gardens.
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n a previous life, when Greg Chait worked at the talent management company The Firm, he received a thank-you gift from a well-known luxury brand—a blanket. “It was just so elegant and cool,” he recalls one fall morning in The Elder Statesman’s warehouse-like studio near the Arts District. “I had never seen anything like it.” Chait, now 44, was intrigued and began working with a weaver in the Pacific Northwest on a few plush, patterned blankets for himself. He had no global ambitions at the time. “I thought I was going to have the most incredible blanket collection in the world,” he says, his face newly clean-shaven after 17 years of sporting a prodigious beard which his 12-year-old daughter Dorothy had been adamantly opposed to shaving—until, one day, she wasn’t. “People treat me completely differently,” he adds with a ruminative, zen’d out energy. “They just talk to me more.” But enough about beards, back to blankets. When the owner of the West Hollywood boutique Maxfield, where Chait
was a customer, caught wind of his side project, he asked if he could sell a few, despite the fact that they were Chait’s personal samples without a brand or even a price. Chait figured why not? And, to his surprise, the next day they had all been sold. “I thought, ‘Hm. That’s interesting,’” he says. Sure, he had “become obsessed with the fiber,” as he puts it, but he hadn’t realized that others, too, would intuitively recognize how inherently special an item made from hand-spun yarn is. Maxfield, meanwhile, asked how many more blankets he could make before Christmas. Those blankets gave birth to The Elder Statesman, Chait’s knitwear-centric fashion brand. Today, as it turns 15, it’s a full-blown lifestyle label, encompassing men’s and women’s clothing, accessories and home, including pillows, toys and, yup, those blankets. It has a whimsical, ever-soslightly woo-woo aesthetic, with plenty of freewheeling tie-dye and spiritual imagery like yin-yangs, palm trees, mushrooms and starbursts. With cashmere sweaters starting at $695, it’s sold at some of the most prestigious luxury retailers in the world, including Bergdorf Goodman and Mr Porter,
and The Elder Statesman has its own store in Los Angeles, a charming little beach bungalow off Melrose in West Hollywood, which just underwent a refresh this past summer throughout its garden spaces and exterior. It’s a simple wooden affair that’s the perfect mellow backdrop on which the fanciful product can live. Yet the brand remains an outlier in a globalized industry of overseas production done at mass scale, of bloated marketing budgets and dizzying supply-chain logistics. He has built a fully integrated business, which is just corporate-speak for saying his office is under the same roof as the factory in which the sweaters are made—you know, like how clothes used to be made before everything got so, well, complicated. (The models in the C shoot are all his employees.) The day we meet, two rows of yarn boxes stacked 6 feet high run down the center of the studio, creating a long hallway from the front of the building to the back. Chait’s office is a dark glass box on an upper level, and right outside lays an enormous, brightly colored knit snake on which a young employee sits hunched over a laptop. Connected to his office building is the
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factory. When we walk through, half-finished sweaters are on the handlooms, there are baker’s racks of dyed cashmere sweatpants and hoodies, and out back, two employees are dyeing under a tarp-covered tent. Most days, Chait says, the clothes are left to dry under the L.A. sun. Because of the way they’re made, each garment is unique; that’s no mistake, it’s core to the brand’s identity. In our increasingly industrialized and digitized world, clothes made by hand by trained craftspeople are becoming rarer and rarer. Restoring the humanity to a time-honored process is an act that’s held on a pedestal in the luxury clothing business, giving The Elder Statesman the edge over its competition. “It’s a product with a soul,” Chait says when asked how a novice like himself was able to come out of the blue and capture the attention of Vogue’s Anna Wintour (he took home the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2012) and some of the most prestigious retailers in the world. “I think that soul carries through.” Chait lives a compelling version of the California Dream. Based in what’s essentially the world’s most glamorous trailer park in Malibu, he resides close to the ocean so he can surf every day. But the surfing lifestyle, he says, holds many solutions for life on land—especially running a business, or starting one in the shadow of a recession, as he did in 2008, or pushing through the punishing challenges of an ongoing pandemic (more on that later). “It’s probably the greatest metaphor for life,” he says of surfing. “Every wave is a little different; you’re in the moment, you can get absolutely destroyed at a moment’s notice, but also the next wave could be the best wave of your life. The more hectic it is in the ocean and the more relaxed you are, the better. And with running a business or having a complicated life, if you can find a way to be as relaxed as possible, you’re actually going to make better decisions and it’s going to be a more elegant experience.” Chait’s career is dappled with kismet, like the time he went to work for Whitney Houston because his resume happened to be on the top of a nearby stack, or how, early in The Elder Statesman’s development, he booked a ticket to Italy, happened upon a factory with a sign that said “Cashmere” on the front and that’s how he learned how to buy high-quality yarn. Continued on p.133
“I was always intending to do well, in whatever field I went into” GREG CHAIT
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From left: Retail relations manager BEAU BIGLOW wears THE ELDER STATESMAN Italy Smoking Jacket, $2,195. Vice president of sales CHINA MOSS wears Gingham Long Decon Jacket, $2,495, GARRET LEIGHT sunglasses, $385. GREG CHAIT wears Simple Crew sweater, $995. MICHAEL CAMPOS wears Jolly Stripe Crew, $1,195, Heavy Shorts, $775, Ranger Beanie, $395, Yosemite Socks, $215, VINCE shoes, $275, and OLIVER PEOPLES sunglasses. TINA HONG CHEN wears Ultra Stripe Smoking Jacket, $2,290, and Classic Lounge Pant, $955, Yosemite Socks, $215, ALL SAINTS sandals, $101, VINCE T-shirt, $80, OLIVER PEOPLES sunglasses. ARIEL MALMAZADA wears Zig Dye sweater, $1,695, and Classic Crop Pant, $995. All other items stylist’s own. elder-statesman.com. Glam by VIVIANNE RAUDSEPP at The Wall Group. Location ELSEWHERE in Topanga, elsewherecalifornia.com.
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The Bridal Bar
Weddings Cover
NICE DAY FOR AN L.A. WEDDING PLUS A GRAND GREYSTONE MANSION RECEPTION AND TYING THE KNOT IN THE DESERT
David Yurman
CARLYLE COLLECTION
David Yurman
davidyurman.com
Four Seasons - Lanai
cd: ROBB AARON GORDON
- An Island Sanctuary like no other
Four Seasons - Lanai
LOVELANAI.COM
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CONTRIBUTORS ANUSH J. BENLIYAN DANIELLE DiMEGLIO LESLEY McKENZIE KELSEY McKINNON
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JENNY MURRAY REBECCA RUSSELL ELIZABETH VARNELL
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AT FIRST LUSH Peer inside Louesa Roebuck’s sublime world of eco-luxe florals
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ouesa Roebuck got her start designing floral installations at Chez Panisse and quickly garnered the attention of California’s creative cognoscenti (clients have included Todd Selby, Carolyn Murphy and the late John Baldessari). In her new book,
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Punk Ikebana: Reimagining the Art of Floral Design (Cameron Books, $60), the renegade Ojai-based creative takes a transcendental journey along the West Coast, stopping along the way to create in situ arrangements for friends and fellow artists. The pages are a fairy tale of foraged, micro-seasonal, organically grown flora styled in upcycled, salvaged
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and cherished heritage vessels—offering endless inspiration for the visionary, eco-conscious couple. From California’s native kit-kit-dizze to rootstock roses, western star flower, dogwood and salmon datura, Roebuck effortlessly shows that the components of a beautiful arrangement are all around us if we simply open our eyes to see them. K.M.
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IAN HUGHES; CAMERON BOOKS, A CALIFORNIA HERITAGE PUBLISHING HOUSE, A DIVISION OF ABRAMS
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An installation of foraged flora by LOUESA ROEBUCK. Left: The artist in her element.
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TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany Edge Circle pendant, $20,000.
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EDGE OF GLORY
INTO THE WILD
THE SEA RANCH LODGE x SHELTER CO. one-night wedding packages start from $65,000 for up to 50 guests.
Diamond jewelry takes a modern turn in Tiffany & Co.’s new Tiffany Edge collection. Rows of round, brilliant-cut gems set in platinum are accented by a thin 18-karat gold bar, a motif that’s picked up in a suite of cascading earrings, delicate bracelets, cylindrical bands, solitaire rings, petite hoops, thin necklaces and even motherof-the-bride-worthy pendants. Fancy yellow diamonds also make an appearance in sleek earrings, a necklace and a ring—a flash of color for brides looking to stray from a one-hue palette. All the sharp designs’ clean architectural lines add a touch of the avant-garde to aisle style. tiffany.com. E.V.
Weddings News
Nature-loving couples dreaming of tying the knot and spending their wedding night under the stars can look to The Sea Ranch Lodge, Northern California’s idyllic 53-acre retreat. Nestled along the Sonoma County coast, the historic property (fresh off a multimillion-dollar renovation and clad in red cedar) has teamed up with beloved outdoor events company Shelter Co. to create a personalized luxury glamping experience for couples and their wedding guests. An ocean-view ceremony at the Bluff and an open-air reception on the Meadow lead seamlessly into a night spent in bell-shaped tents sprawled across grassy acres. Accommodating up to 100 guests in all, the two-person tents are equipped with stylish furnishings such as beds covered in Egyptian cotton sheets, leather lounge chairs, romantic lanterns, cowhide rugs and cozy wool blankets. In true glamping style, luxury restrooms and showers are also provided. While the great outdoors are certainly the focal point, don’t forget to peep the newly minted bar, lounge, cafe, dining area, general store and post office on the property. 60 Sea Walk Dr., Sea Ranch, 707579-9777; thesearanchlodge.com. D.D.
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Edge bracelet, $69,000.
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1. TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany Novo yellow diamond ring. 2. ALEXANDRA JULES aquamarine ring. 3. DAVID YURMAN DY Capri emerald ring. 4. GRAFF ruby ring. 5. HARRY WINSTON sapphire ring. All prices upon request. R.R.
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SEA RANCH: SARAH FALUGO. LAURENT-PERRIER: LEIF CARLSSON.
RINGS OF POWER Colored stones are a strong statement
CHIC FEET
Shoe ins for a first dance
Fresh blooms at PRETEND MALIBU.
1. MAKE-BELIEVE MAGIC
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The Royal Suite at THE LANESBOROUGH.
LONDON CALLING For the ultimate royal treatment, venture across the pond to West London’s historic five-star hotel The Lanesborough, a stately white-glove retreat that has drawn dignitaries and stars from former U.S. presidents to Madonna, Cher and Leonardo DiCaprio. Framed by majestic columns and charming lampposts, the pearly Neoclassical manor holds pride of place on Hyde Park Corner, a stone’s throw from the famed Harrods department store and Buckingham Palace. Gold-leaf gilding, crystal chandeliers, dramatic high ceilings and ornate furnishings transport you to the 19th century with a Regency-style design that carries through its 93 rooms and newly debuted The Lanesborough Grill, a modern British restaurant helmed by Michelin-starred chef Shay Cooper. Fit for a queen or king, the Royal Suite offers nearly 5,000 square feet of decadence with seven impeccable bedrooms and views of the Buckingham Palace Gardens, along with a chauffeur-driven car and personal butler. Those on honeymoon may never want to leave. From $22,000/night. oetkercollection.com/thelanesborough. D.D.
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Pretend Plants & Flowers cofounders Ezra Woods and Michael Woodcock are known for letting their imaginations run wild, especially when it comes to their highly stylized floral creations, defined by what Woods calls “psychedelic and baroque moments of decadence.” Since the 2018 launch of their floral studio, the L.A.-based duo’s whimsical sensibility has expanded to include interior and garden design and, as of August, the interdisciplinary gallery-like concept Pretend Malibu. In addition to fresh flowers and plants, the space features contemporary art by the likes of Nate Lowman, as well as Courtney Applebaum Design homewares, clothing from Simone Rocha, jewelry by Loren Nicole and more—all displayed like artifacts. “We really resonate with [the] coastal lifestyle the way it is now: fun, high/low, relaxed and down to earth,” says Woods. Malibu Village, 3862 Cross Creek Rd., Malibu; pretendplantsandflowers.com. L.M.
Weddings News
4. 1. AQUAZZURA Aura Plexi sandals, $1,850. 2. JIMMY CHOO Bing sandal, $1,695. 3. MANOLO BLAHNIK Lurum mule, $1,395. 4. SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO Cassie sandal, $1,150. R.R.
ROYAL PAIRING Looking to toast your wedding festivities with first-class bubbly? Long championed by King Charles III and even granted the Royal Warrant in 1998, Laurent-Perrier has quite a reputation. The storied, family-owned French purveyor has been producing Champagne since the early 1800s, and the legacy continues with its aromatic Cuvée Rosé. With notes of raspberry, redcurrant, strawberry and black cherry, the sparkling rosé—made of 100 percent Pinot Noir grapes sourced from 10 different vineyards across Montagne de Reims—offers a palate sensation likened to plunging into a basket of freshly picked red fruit. Whether for an intimate rehearsal dinner or a grand reception, the deeply hued wine serves perfectly alongside an elegant meal (grilled prawns, prosciutto and red fruit desserts are some pairings of note) or to toast the bride and groom. laurent-perrier.com. D.D. LAURENT-PERRIER Cuvée Rosé, $100/bottle. MAGAZ I N EC.COM
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W E D D I N G S KAMPERETT hand-beaded bow, $1,450.
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The hand-sewn bead patterns across headbands made by Kamperett are “inspired by a celestial sky, the irregular spray of stars in an inky universe,” says Anna Chiu, who along with Valerie Santillo founded the San Franciscobased womenswear line. The duo has introduced made-to-order beaded velvet accessories with lengthy ribbon ties—to be worn loose, tied behind the head, under the chin or around a hairstyle—and beaded silk crepe de chine bows set on gold combs, all hand-sewn in Paris. Chiu says the richness of velvet and grosgrain inspired Kamperett’s new pieces, which can be paired with a veil or worn in lieu of one. Tonal pearl beads on the bows “resemble the imperfect yet perfect patterns found in nature,” Chiu adds, evoking the central role played by the earth and sky in the new designs. 3686 20th St, S.F., 510-945-0880; kamperett.com. E.V.
From top: The lily pond at SAN YSIDRO RANCH. New offerings include a California Wine Country package.
PRECIOUS PEARLS From the sea to your lobes
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1. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Bella Maniera earrings, $92,000. 2. IRENE NEUWIRTH earrings, $26,420. 3. COMPLETEDWORKS earrings, $273. 4. DAVID YURMAN earrings, $3,200. 5. KATKIM Pearl Crescendo earrings, $1,680. R.R.
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SAN YSIDRO RANCH: IVANA MILENKOVIC. KENDALL KNOX WEDDING PHOTO: @TACOBAIL..
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It’s famously one of the most romantic hideaways in one of the most idyllic places on earth. In 1940, at a secret midnight ceremony, Katharine Hepburn witnessed Vivien Leigh and Sir Laurence Olivier marry at Montecito’s San Ysidro Ranch. A little more than a decade later, Jacqueline and John F. Kennedy honeymooned in one of the storybook cottages. Celebrating its 130th anniversary in 2023, San Ysidro Ranch remains a lauded venue for intimate weddings and celebrations. The 550-acre property at the base of the Santa Barbara foothills continues to elevate its magical appeal with additional vine-covered guest cottages—each with a four-poster bed and a private hot tub—as well as a luxury salon and spa and Michelin-prized dining beneath ancient oaks. From $2,495/night. 900 San Ysidro Ln., Montecito, 805-565-1700; sanysidroranch.com. J.M.
HARRY WINSTON Precious Emerald timepiece, price upon request.
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Post-elopement essentials for easy living
EMERALD CITY
2. After Kendall Sargeant and Ben Knox—the merchants behind the imported antique furnishings and decor of Olive Ateliers—went to Kendall’s hometown of Sydney this past February, they returned home to Venice Beach engaged and ready to embark on their next chapter. While their grand nuptials will take place in Australia in 2023, the pair decided to elope at the Santa Barbara Courthouse over the summer. The intimate affair was stylish and simple: The bride wore a 1950s dress from Gossamer Vintage, held a posy of peonies and olive branches by Pigsty, and hit the road with her beau in a 1974 Alfa Romeo Spider from Hollywood Classic Cars. Here, the trendsetting bride shares her registry wishlist. oliveateliers.com. A.J.B.
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Referencing Harry Winston’s fondness for octagonal silhouettes, the house’s new high jewelry watch collection is also a master class in diamond cuts. The petite-sized Precious Emerald tickers evoke the delicate look and flexibility of platinum tennis bracelets but are set with 146 brilliantand marquise-cut diamonds, closed with a hidden clasp. Emerald-shaped watch faces are made with iridescent mother-of-pearl and groupings of 10 marquise diamonds form fan shapes positioned at 5 and 10 o’clock, re-creating the house’s cluster motif developed in the 1940s. Beyond white mother-of-pearl, the watch face is available in pink, red, green, yellow and two different shades of blue. Implicit in the minimalist dial, limited to hour and minute hands, is a promise to get a bride and her attendants to the ceremony on time. 310 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-2718554; 200 Post St., S.F., 628867-1100; harrywinston.com. E.V.
Weddings News
4. 1. SMEG espresso machine, $529. 2. 1STDIBS Willy Guhl planter, $3,800/set of two. 3. PARACHUTE Linen Venice bedding, from $469. 4. OLIVE ATELIERS antique Olive pots, from $245.
ANIMAL KINGDOM The designs of David Webb’s Artful Animal collection—including enamel horse, zebra and giraffe bracelets, leopard brooches and coiled snake cuffs—are elegant additions to a modern trousseau, particularly for ceremonies held in shaded gardens and coastal woods. Webb designed the creatures at his desk in New York surrounded by leafy plants, drawing on the Ashville, North Carolina, hills of his upbringing as inspiration. A 1967 Vogue profile once described his apartment as “two-thirds garden, one-third living quarters,” and Webb had commissioned a 1964 film, A Walk in the Woods, which the house recently re-created, to show the jewels in verdant environs. Naturally, tiny gold and bejeweled frog brooches perched on floating leaves are a mood to build a wedding around. 9500 Wilshire Blvd., B.H., 310-858-8006; davidwebb.com. A.J.B. DAVID WEBB Artful Animals Kingdom frog brooch with diamonds, $22,000. MAGAZ I N EC.COM
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the modern wedding Baccarat · Breitling · Brunello Cucinelli · Buccellati · Burberry · Bvlgari · Cartier · Christian Louboutin · Crate & Barrel David Yurman · Dior · Dior Men · Dolce&Gabbana · Frette · Gianvito Rossi · Giorgio Armani · Givenchy · Harry Winston Hermès · Hublot · Hugo Boss · Jimmy Choo · John Varvatos · La Perla · Mikimoto · Monique Lhuillier · Oscar de la Renta Pottery Barn · Prada · Ralph Lauren · Rimowa · Roger Dubuis · Roger Vivier · Saint Laurent · Salvatore Ferragamo Sur La Table · Thom Browne · Tiffany & Co. · Tudor · Tumi · Valentino · Williams Sonoma · Wolford · Zegna · Zimmermann partial listing
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Hollywood Royale REBECCA REARDON and EVAN RICHTER conjure glamour among the gardens of the Greystone Mansion
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Photography by SAMUEL LIPPKE STUDIOS Words by KELSEY M C KINNON
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REBECCA REARDON and EVAN RICHTER , posing amid the French lavender and Italian Cyprus, were drawn to GREYSTONE MANSION’s formal yet intimate gardens.
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ven after years of dating and discussion over the ring, financier Evan Richter still managed to surprise Rebecca Reardon on a trip to Napa Valley when he got down on one knee and held up a magnificent emerald-cut diamond surrounded by emerald-cut baguettes. (“I told him I wanted an ’80s twist on Angelina Jolie’s engagement ring,” Rebecca says. “Thankfully, Evan’s family is in the jewelry business and helped make the ring.”) The pair didn’t waste any time and set a date just three months later. The bride, a doula, cleared her calendar to plan the event relying heavily on advice from her future mother-in-law, an interior designer. Rebecca’s vision for the day started with the dress. “I would describe my personal style as tomboy chic—a young Diane Keaton—and I imagined myself hating all wedding dresses,” she says. But when a friend serendipitously spotted a romantic couture gown at the Galia Lahav boutique in Los Angeles, Rebecca rushed right over, sans appointment, and bought it on the spot. “Once I had the dress, I knew I could build an event around [it],” she says. The couple fell in love with the manicured grounds of the Greystone Mansion in Beverly Hills, which is not too far from their home in West Hollywood. The Orthodox Jewish ceremony, which took place in the historic rose and boxwood garden, was followed by a raucous hora and a formal dinner. “It’s funny: my wedding was actually the first Orthodox wedding I’d ever been to,” says Rebecca, who had converted to Judaism prior to the wedding. Afterward, the couple decamped to the Sunset Tower Hotel for a Hollywood-style ending. X
Clockwise from top left: The wedding rings were made by the groom’s family’s jewelry company. Rebecca had a jacket made for the Orthodox ceremony. The marathon hora lasted an hour and a half. Dinner was served in the mansion’s courtyard. Husband and wife under a botanical chuppah. A petite, peach and pink bridal bouquet. Opposite: Rebecca credits her romantic couture GALIA LAHAV gown as a primary source of inspiration while planning her nuptials. “I knew that I wanted something that felt like it belonged in an English garden with old architecture,” she says.
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EVENT PRODUCTION International Event Company • MAKEUP Paige Pelfrey • HAIR Sienree • BRIDAL STYLIST Dear Maradee • FLOWERS Mark’s Garden • STATIONERY Paper Occasions • RENTALS Luxe Linen • CATERING Culinary Creations by Chumie • LIGHTING MJ Lighting & Decor
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Inspired by Joshua Tree’s desert landscape, ALEXANDRA BROWN and DEANDRE GLOVER dream up an oasis at a modern minimalist retreat
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Photography by BROOKE MILLER PHOTOGRAPHY Words by CAROLINE CAGNEY
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Newlyweds ALEXANDRA BROWN and DEANDRE “DRE” GLOVER . “Dre’s dream car is the 1970 Lincoln Continental with suicide doors,” says the bride. “ We loved the idea of incorporating this into our wedding photos and found one to rent for the119 day.”
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elebrity hairstylist and salon owner Alexandra Brown met DeAndre “Dre” Glover, a welder and founder of the lifestyle brand Mustard Grain, through the dating app Hinge in 2018, while Dre was in Chicago for a month-long job. “Our first date was a Chicago Bears versus New England Patriots football game,” says Alexandra, who previously lived in Los Angeles for three years, cutting her teeth assisting hairstylist Jen Atkin, and now calls Chicago home. The rest, as they say, is history. In 2020, Dre proposed at Starved Rock State Park in Illinois with an intimate picnic at sunset. Soon after, they began planning their October wedding for the following year at Le Chacuel in Joshua Tree, a four-bedroom retreat tucked away in the middle of the desert with sweeping views of Yucca Valley. “We had fallen in love with the desert when we traveled to the area a few times while dating,” says Alexandra. When it came to planning, the couple was hands-on. “We made our own ceremony programs from a template on Etsy,” the bride says. “We cut holes in the fold to tie a thick ribbon on the edge to dress them up a bit.” For all else, they enlisted Southern Californiabased event planner Fetelle Designs, which
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helped incorporate modern furniture and decor in neutral, earthy hues and textures “to tone down the total bohemian feel the desert can give off,” says Alexandra. Large pillar candles along with pampas grass and dusty pink, terracotta and cream flowers by florist Joy of Bloom festooned the ceremony and reception areas. Set under the night sky, 55 guests dined poolside on tacos made with homemade tortillas (courtesy of Soho Taco) while sipping on spicy margaritas and mezcal old fashioneds before dancing the night away. “There was a moment during dinner when we sat back and really looked at everything and everyone together in awe,” Alexandra says. “It was a moment we will never forget.” X
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From top: The happy couple. The desert ceremony setup with views of the Yucca Valley. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The groom’s SAINT LAURENT boots and accessories. A mezcal old-fashioned and a spicy margarita. The bride wore a gown by DANIELLE FRANKEL. The newlyweds enjoy cake by HEY THERE CUPCAKE. A quiet moment at the reception. Invitations, written vows and the bride’s accessories, including a JACQUEMUS mini bag.
MAKEUP Lyndsay Zavitz • HAIR Carly Bethel • GROOM’S TUX Provenance by Diana Michelle • RENTALS Archive Rentals • ENTERTAINMENT Adi Ben Yehuda; DJ T-Roc • ENGAGEMENT RING Vladdys Diamonds • WEDDING BANDS HauteCarat
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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO dress, $4,300. VHERNIER earrings, $9,400. Opposite: GIVENCHY dress, $2,865. NATASHA MORGAN visor.
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House PartyFeature - Ressler SAMANTHA RESSLER and JASON BORG created a stunning fête at the bride’s Los Angeles family estate Photography by LARA PORZAK & JAY CLENDENIN Words by CAROLINE CAGNEY
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SAMANTHA RESSLER , wearing ZAC POSEN couture, and JASON BORG, wearing TOM FORD, are pronounced husband and wife. “Jason has an old tattoo that says ‘Feels Good to Be Home,” which Lorem ipsum credit here: we both made fun of quite a bit and Cursus euismod quis turned into the theme of our wedding,” viverra nibh cras pulvinar says Sam. “Because we found each other, mattis nunc sed. because we got married at my childhood Nec ullamcorper sit amet home, because it all felt so right.” risus nullam eget felis eget.
Words by XXXXXX Photography by XXXXXX
Clockwise from top: A dreamy alfresco dinner. Says the bride of her gown’s inspiration: “I sent Zac a photo of the dress Audrey Hepburn wears in the ball scene in War & Peace.” The newlyweds cut into a cake by FANTASY FROSTINGS. Sam wears a sequined VALENTINO dress at the after-party.
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he day Jason Borg moved from New York to Los Angeles, he happened to run into an old friend from college, Max Winkler, and his sister Zoe, who immediately texted Max’s best friend, Samantha Ressler, to ask if she could set her up with Jason. “I wrote back ‘no,’ but she gave him my number anyway,” recalls Sam, an actor and producer who founded the theater and production company We The Women and also co-owns the Hollywood restaurant Gigi’s. Sure enough, Jason—who runs his own commercial real estate business—called her that very evening. Four months after their first date, when the couple joined Jason’s best friends on a trip for his birthday, Sam had a feeling: “I knew on that trip that if I ever married anyone, it would be him,” she says. The two moved in together that August and planned to wed just six months later. With the bride’s Coldwater Canyon family home as the starting point, they enlisted event planner Mark Seed, who constructed a greenhouse on the lawn for the reception displaying five long tables, each in a different color scheme, draped in exotic Italian prints courtesy of designer Lisa Corti, with vibrant Missi Flowers floral arrangements and candles atop. “I wanted it to feel like you were coming to our house for a party or dinner,” says Sam. After the “I do’s,” for which the bride wore a custom couture gown created by dear friend and designer Zac Posen, she changed into a sequined Valentino dress—the better for dancing to tunes curated by DJ Allie Teilz. “Our siblings partied all night with us,” says Sam, who took the after-party indoors to what is normally Sam’s father’s office, which was transformed into a dance space with disco balls abound and mylar-covered walls. “We were the last men standing!” X MAKEUP Pati Dubroff • HAIR Mara Roszak • STATIONERY Andie Dinkin; Jonathan Wright • RENTALS The Ark Rentals; Town & Country • BRIDE’S SHOES Manolo Blahnik • CATERING Savore • ENTERTAINMENT West Coast Music
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BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOGRAPHY BY LARA PORZAK. COLOR PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAY CLENDENIN.
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From top: The couple’s mutual friend Max Winkler officiated the wedding. MARK SEED INC created a greenhouse-like structure for the reception.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO dress, $4,300. VHERNIER earrings, $9,400. Opposite: GIVENCHY dress, $2,865. NATASHA MORGAN visor.
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D Designed by architect Christoph Ingenhoven, Lanserhof Sylt has 55 modern rooms and suites beneath the largest thatched roof in Europe.
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Pristine, peaceful and completely personalized, a visit to Germany’s Lanserhof Sylt medi-spa resort clears the head and the gut
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Travel Guests receive a unique schedule of naturopathic therapies and medical testing Cure Classic (also referred to as “The Cure”), overseen by medical director and cardiologist Dr. Jan Stritzke. “We have a diet for the sports guy who wants to increase muscle mass, and we have a diet designed for patients who want to lose weight. But this is just the beginning of what we offer,” he says. Upon arrival and meeting with a physician, guests receive a unique schedule involving a mix of naturopathic therapies (such as meditation, supplementation, oxygen treatments, infusions, sleep therapy, exercise, hypnotherapy) and comprehensive medical testing
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estled on the serene German island of Sylt lies the newest edition of the world-renowned Lanserhof Resorts, Lanserhof Sylt. Catering to a diverse clientele, the medi-spa is a premiere destination for those in the know, from supermodels and CEOs to health enthusiasts and those in need of holistic recovery. It’s easy to see why Lanserhof chose the island of Sylt (pronounced “zuhlt” if you want to fit in with the locals) for its expansion. The setting is frequently compared to the Hamptons and Martha’s Vineyard (it served as a convincing stand-in for Roman Polanski’s The Ghost Writer), not only for the tall grassy dunes, white sandy beaches and bracing sea air, but also for the wealthy inhabitants, tony stores and Michelin-starred restaurants. Located on the site of former military dwellings, on the edge of the Wadden Sea, the 55 rooms and suites are housed in a modern structure designed by renowned German architect Christoph Ingenhoven. Built with sustainable materials, the continuous glass facade rests beneath Europe’s largest thatched roof. Each room features human-centric lighting (mimicking natural daylight to keep guests in harmony with their circadian rhythm), a private balcony and access to personalized climate-controlled FreshBed technology to ensure a comfortable stay. The core philosophy and base program is a gut reset called
Clockwise from far left: Large windows look onto the Wadden Sea. Indoor and outdoor saltwater pools. A path to miles of beach. The island’s Frisian houses inspired the design. Rooms feature spacious bathrooms and private balconies.
Travel (colonoscopy, cardio check, urine testing, 3D skin analysis and more). “Next year we will establish a diagnostic center with CT scans, MRIs, dentistry, eye care and more space for mental health support,” shares Dr. Stritzke. While each guest’s daily schedule differs, the uniting factor is mealtime. Everyone does some form of fasting and/or restricted diet; some may exist on only broth and herbal teas, others eat low-calorie combinations of yogurt, grains, cooked vegetables and protein. Then there’s the much-envied “active eaters,” with beautifully plated, hearty meals that are the top topic of discussion at every table. Before the first meal of the day, guests are given a bitter Epsom salt drink to help with elimination and detoxification. The
combination of modest eating and potentially explosive bathroom moments means more time in your room than you anticipate, plus a few uncomfortable days before the sugar and caffeine withdrawals subside and the euphoria of the renewal process begins—usually around day four. Especially during this time, it’s advised to take advantage of the state-of-the-art facilities: heat therapy in the multiple saunas, cold therapy in the cryo chamber, gentle cardio and relaxing yoga in the gym, and swimming in the indoor and outdoor saltwater pools. It isn’t easy to get there from California, but if you’re passionate about health and are ready to make lasting changes, a visit to Lanserhof is worth the time and investment. lanserhof.com. X
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STELLA MCCARTNEY Reset Cleanser, $60.
Beauty
The foldable FRAME REFORMER is compact enough to slide under a queen-sized bed.
CLEAN CONSCIENCE Trendsetter Stella McCartney first entered the beauty world 14 years ago with an organic skincare line in need of a more educated consumer. Now she’s back with a collection that places her renowned vegan and crueltyfree principles at its core. Contained in refillable bottles made from recycled glass, the minimalist range, infused with a scent by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, includes the Reset Cleanser, Alter-Care Serum and Restore Cream. Each formulation works in harmony with the skin to regenerate and protect. stellamccartney.com.
REFORM SCHOOL
The benefits of Pilates are undeniable. Now, with the Frame Reformer by Frame Fitness, it’s possible to access hundreds of home sessions taught by expert trainers on demand. The foldable, easy-to-store device is digitally connected to a monitor, earning it the
nickname “the Peloton of Pilates.” Lowimpact, core-burning workouts focus on precise movements to avoid injury and optimize results—all in the comfort of your home. Available for pre-order, $3,499, with a $39/month subscription. framefitness.com.
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SENSEI: TANVEER BADAL. MANICURIST: DAVID UZZARDI PHOTOGRAPHY.
CRÂNE salon in Beverly Hills. Right: AARON KING.
“It feels like you’re in our home,” says stylist and men’s groomer Aaron King of Crâne, the new Beverly Hills hair salon he has co-founded with celebrity colorist Cassondra Kaeding. “The design is warm, and the ‘factory’ element of what was once the salon standard has been eliminated,” adds Kaeding. With high ceilings and 10-foot mirrors, the space is flooded with natural light, shining over a 17-foot olive tree that complements elements of wood, stone and clay. Keeping intimacy in mind, the number of chairs is limited to a minimum—only six. Between the two of them, King and Kaeding count Miley Cyrus, Leonardo DiCaprio, Frank Ocean and Hailey Bieber among their loyal clientele. When asked what’s trending for winter, Kaeding shares, “Red … from strawberry blonde to deep, golden copper, and lots of auburn.” From $175 for styling and $225 for color, 134 S. Robertson Blvd., B.H.
PERFUMEHEAD Cosmic Cowboy extrait de parfum, $425.
FRENCH FLAIR
SCENT CITY Founder and beauty industry veteran Daniel Patrick Giles envisioned Perfumehead as a love letter to L.A. Each scent in the collection of seven hand-poured luxury extraits de parfum—the most concentrated form of perfume—is like the establishing shot in a film. “For me to create and build the fragrance, I have to have a movie playing in my mind. [I imagine] who the characters are,” Giles shares. The Chateau Marmont-
inspired “Room No” has notes of bergamot, orris butter, black tea, palo santo, vanilla and musk, formulated to evoke the decadence of the storied hotel’s guests from the 1920s through the present. Perfumehead is available exclusively at Violet Grey, where Giles regularly visits so he may personally guide customers through all seven scent stories. 8452 Melrose Pl., L.A., 323-782-9700; violetgrey.com.
Beauty
The world-class 18-hole golf course at SENSEI PORCUPINE CREEK.
OM SWEET OM With just 22 accommodations on 230 secluded acres along the foothills of the Santa Rosa Mountains, Sensei Porcupine Creek recently debuted as the second outpost of the wellness and hospitality company founded by tech magnate Larry Ellison and physician Dr. David Agus. (The first location, Hawaii’s Sensei Lānai, Four Seasons Resort, opened in 2019.) The Rancho Mirage resort hosts customized well-being, tennis and golf retreats which require a minimum five-night stay, incorporating technology and one-on-one counsel with nutritionists and sports experts. The programs showcase chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s guests-only restaurant and spa offerings like the 90-minute Abhyanga four-handed massage. From $1,225/night. 42765 Dunes View Rd., Rancho Mirage, 760-477-4767; sensei.com. A.J.B.
Capturing French-girl style in California just got easier. Hailing from Paris, Manucurist is finally debuting its plant-based nail products stateside. Founder Gaëlle LebratPersonnaz wants to introduce Americans to a clean alternative to gel polish with the brand’s Green Flash range. Available in more than 50 shades, it bridges the gap between traditional nail polish and gel polish, without sacrificing the glossy finish. The easy, three-step application (base coat, color, top coat) dries instantly when cured under an LED light after each step. Formulated to last as many as 10 days, the polish wipes off with an acetone-free remover. For inspiration, Manicurist opened an invitation-only salon studio in Beverly Hills where nail artists like Kim Truong (Kim Kardashian and Kerry Washington’s manicurist) create looks on influencers. Kits from $169, individual shades $19, us.manucurist.com.
The invite-only MANUCURIST salon. Above: Green Flash nail polish, $19.
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NAILBERRY Breathable Nail Polish, $21, violetgrey.com.
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LIFE OF THE PARTY
KJAER WEIS Iconic Edition Euphoria Lipstick, $48, kjaerweis.com.
Holiday season essentials for effortless glam
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Les Beige Water-Fresh Blush, $50, chanel.com.
Flower Acid Serum, $74, themarabeauty.com.
Brow Sculpt, $24, us.refybeauty.com.
Beauty
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Paradoxe Eau De Parfum, $142, prada-beauty.com.
Gold Power Pin, $77, dayratebeauty.com.
True Skin Serum Foundation, $54, iliabeauty.com.
On Stage Liner, $32, dior.com.
In addition to its popular workouts, THE CLASS studio will host yoga and breath-work programs.
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After a sold-out stint on the Santa Monica Pier, cult-status fitness phenomenon The Class has opened a Westside outpost. Devotees such as Jennifer Aniston and Alicia Keys relish the combination of mindfulness, Pilates, yoga, meditation, cardio and dance that result in a cathartic journey that strengthens the body and releases the mind. The new studio features design elements centered around the lunar phases, with intentionally placed crystals to infuse grounding energy. $30/class, 2433 Main St., Santa Monica, 310-392-3393; theclass.com. K.A.
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EYE: YUNONA URITSKY/UNSPLASH. THE CLASS: SAM FROST.
CLASS IS IN SESSION
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ORANGE IS THE NEW BLACK gallery spaces with plenty of airflow, retractable walls and a mezzanine to accommodate world-class traveling shows and the more than 4,500 works of art in the permanent collection: A diverse range of sculptures, paintings and installations from Andy Warhol’s Mao to Chris Burden’s giant sand-laden sculpture A Tale of Two Cities to anarchist installation artist Richard Jackson’s neon sign Ain’t Painting a Pain. The space is ready for whatever the 21st century may bring. “The notion was to be open to any future possibility, including scale. We gave them basically a large room and access to that room, a total neutrality of space. And we gave them a piazza for exterior exhibits. I was thinking of Anish Kapoor’s enormous inflatables shown at the Grand Palais [in Paris in 2011]. You want to be able to open to characters like Kapoor,” says Mayne. All this coming together “was both an artisanal and a high-tech process,” says Brandon Welling, Morphosis’ partner-in-charge, of the project. “We built the building first in a computer; everything from a panel to a bolt is modeled in advance to see if it fits. We 3D printed all the tiles in advance, and we shipped the forms to New York.” The group also adhered to high environmental standards, many of which had been set by the Smithsonian to comply with guidelines such as temperature controls for rare works of art. “From the outset, this museum wanted to bring in the highest-level shows. The way to control temperature architecturally is to create hermetically sealed chambers, but we wanted to have these large open connective spaces and so it was a challenge in hot, humid Southern California, requiring very robust mechanical systems.” Welling credits Anton Segerstrom, art collector and South Coast Plaza heir, for pushing the project forward all these years. But it was Zuckerman who supercharged it to its conclusion, raising the last $40 million needed, and reconfigured the museum’s post-pandemic role as a public sanctuary “by acknowledging that we live in a time of high anxiety and knowing that art can be a salve,” she says. As the museum’s newly appointed director, she also made design tweaks, such as removing every switch and sensor off the walls and moving it to the floors and ceilings, “so that the walls could be a sacred space for the presentation of art.” In addition, thanks to a generous sponsorship deal she brokered with Newport Beach-based Lugano Diamonds, there will be free entry for the next 10 years, fulfilling OCMA’s credo of being “a 21st-century museum that welcomes everyone by removing barriers to entry.” “Looking back to look forward,” her overarching vision for OCMA means both reclaiming its
disjointed narrative and filling in collection gaps, whether historical or in terms of diversity. She overdelivered on her acquisitions initiative, 60 for 60 (in time for the museum’s 60th anniversary), by bringing in 80 new works, including two pieces from Catherine Opie’s Surfer Series, “that could be the [iconic] images of Orange County.” These will feature in the Zuckerman-curated opening show “13 Women,” a tribute to the gallery’s founders, alongside works by Joan Brown of the Bay Area Figurative Movement and Barbara Kruger. Meanwhile, the California Biennial returns after a five-year hiatus under a curatorial team led by Liz Armstrong alongside Essence Harden, visual arts curator of the California African American Museum, and Gilbert Vicario, the Phoenix Art Museum’s chief curator. Zuckerman tips San Francisco-based Clare Rojas (“I love the notion of a contemporary hieroglyphic”) as one to watch alongside abstract “spiritual” painter Lily Stockman, who works between L.A.’s Frogtown and the Mojave Desert. “I think there’s something about abstraction that taps into a place into your brain that opens up portals for consciousness.” Also opening is an exhibition on Venice Beachbased Fred Eversley, the only black artist in the Light and Space Movement, a former rocket scientist and NASA engineer known for his reflective resin “lens” sculptures, whose first solo show took place at OCMA in 1978. Meanwhile, a large, outdoor, site-specific horizontal figurative sculpture with steel sequins by L.A.-born artist Sanford Biggers has been installed as an answer to Serra’s Connector. Zuckerman concludes: “We’ve [finally] built the museum that Orange County deserves.” •
Runover
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CALIFORNIA’S KING OF CASHMERE The first time he went to Paris Fashion Week, he figured he’d just show up. While waiting for his room at the hip Hotel Costes, he sat in the lobby sipping coffee and struck up a conversation with the owners of the revered Newport Beach luxury boutique A’maree’s. “I had pulled out a tear sheet of [theirs] from a magazine and said, ‘I’ve been looking for you!’” Chait had brought three men’s sweaters with him in addition to the blankets. “But I left with orders from 12 women’s stores. You can’t make this shit up!” he adds. It was almost as if some invisible, cashmeregloved hand were leading him toward where he needed to be. But writing it all off as luck would also be underselling Chait, who grew up in Arizona, the son of a doctor and an artist. It’s telling that Chait used to read the biographies of successful people,
like David Geffen, analyzing how they were able to achieve so much. “I was always intending to do well, in whatever field I went into,” he says. And, of course, it takes a huge amount of grit and drive to build a successful operation like his with no formal training or experience, and especially to remain so dedicated to making as much as he can in-house, when so many others would just offload that work for pennies on the dollar and much less of a headache. It’s this very setup that served him better than most during the pandemic, while many other businesses were dealing with factory closures across the globe. In January 2020, a close friend, the Australian-born Margaret Zhang (now the editorin-chief of China’s edition of Vogue) told him of a deadly, highly contagious disease circulating there. Chait heeded her warning, and as COVID-19 started spreading to the West, causing mass lockdowns, he loaded up his looms and linking machines into cars, sending them into the homes of around 40 employees across the city. “We had people dropping off the yarn and different pieces across the city, out front, because we were definitely concerned about people’s health and safety,” he says. “But people were also worried about their livelihoods. … We never stopped producing.” For his Resort 2021 collection, Chait used the same sort of problem-solving for his lookbook, which was photographed on employees like Michael, his wholesale director; Benjamin, his senior knitter; Ariel, who oversees dyeing; and Tina, the head of linking. Even Dorothy made a cameo. It was, in part, a love letter to the people who kept the brand humming in the face of adversity. Still, talk with Chait long enough and you’ll eventually come back to talking about what he lovingly calls “the fiber.” His fascination struck early and hard. “I often think that it would be more interesting and cooler if I just picked up guitar,” he says. “But sometimes a thing comes along and just hits you and you’re like, I get it.” That’s because, while a signature of a The Elder Statesman piece is its loopy, vibrant design and cozy, cocooning shape, what really sets it apart is how it feels on your body. “You know, coming to fashion without any formal training, I got to the fiber and the yarn in my own way,” Chait says. “I realized from day one that it’s the key for what I wanted to do, which, at the time, was make blankets, and blankets are all about weight and texture. I was fascinated by the process. “After 15 years, I’ll be walking around the factory, walking outside and just seeing things drying in the sun, and it just looks so cool,” he continues. “I mean, it just doesn’t get old for me. It feels like it’s the first time. It’s pretty freaking cool.” •
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Hot Springs for a classic Korean spa experience.
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Where do you take visiting friends? Hiking is always something I want to share with friends in L.A., along with a meal at Locanda Portofino in Santa Monica. In New York, the West Village is a must-see with visiting friends.
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What’s in your cosmetics bag? Beauty counter lip balm; Kosas eyebrow pencil; Relevant sunscreen; Gucci Westman blush stick; Rose Inc lipstick.
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Favorite skincare? I swear by The Power Move by Stripes, jam packed with ectoine, mushroom extract and hyaluronic acids.
NAOMI WATTS We catch up with the actor, producer, and CCO and founder of Stripes skincare
Where do you live? I’ve lived all over Los Angeles. I had a house in Brentwood, and lived in West Hollywood and Hollywood Hills, but I’m a New Yorker now. Where do you feel most zen? Definitely in a bath. The works— candles, salts, a podcast. Favorite hike? Whenever I’m in L.A., I love to hike Franklin Canyon Park. Favorite beach? Sydney beaches for the nostalgia and the views. In California, Point Dume in Malibu.
Zen Moments Favorite relaxing getaway? Nature in any port! The sound of trees and grass, salty water—I’m a sucker for nature. Favorite health food fix? Crunchy salads win the race, always. Do you follow a diet? No restrictions for me, or I’ll just end up craving things. So I just moderate. Favorite hotel? Shutters on the Beach is a perfect place to stay in L.A. But, my favorite hotel in the world is Le Pavillon de la Reine in Paris. Favorite gym/class? I like Pilates, The Class by Taryn Toomey or Yoga Sculpt. Favorite spa? Treatment? Nothing relaxes me more than a good facial massage. Onda’s are the best! And I love Beverly
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Hair products? I’m loving the K18 Hair line, which is great because I still color my hair (although I’ve reduced it). Favorite home item? Costa Brazil’s candles. I have them everywhere. Favorite flowers? Peonies. Daisies and sweet peas remind me of a wild English garden. I also love Ranunculus. What book are you reading? Everything related to menopause. Kelly Casperson’s You Are Not Broken and Amanda Thebe’s Menopocalypse. Favorite musician/album to help you relax? Anything David Bowie. Favorite podcasts? I like to bounce around between On Being with Krista Tippett, Making Sense with Sam Harris, The Peter Attia Drive and Unlocking Us. 2
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