Trendmap by Charlotte Dudley-Smith

FASHION MAP

I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project. Signed:………………………… 2

Date:……………………. 3

Introduction 6

CONTENTS

Methodology 7 What is a Trend?

Role of the Media

Influences on Trends

Impact of Trends

Globalisation in Fashion

Trend Forecasting

Theories

Trend

Key Drivers

Shop Safari

Trend Tracking

Styling Shoot

Editorial

Conclusion 36

Word Count: 2745

Editorial Count: 85

References

Bibliography

Illustrations

Appendix

Charlotte Dudley-Smith

N0730041

The report will then focus on a specific trend that has been predicted for Spring/Summer 18. Researching and exploring aspects such as the trend’s history, relevant historical, social and cultural references, its key drivers and how it has been interpreted by consumers because of its presence on the market. A styling shoot at the end of the report will involve the chosen trend whilst following the style of ‘Dazed’ magazine.

Primary research: Shop safari Interviews Survey

This fashion map will study the context of a trend and its impact in the fashion industry before exploring the importance of trend forecasting and the purpose it serves in today’s fashion market. It will also consider all cultural, social and environmental influences trends have on today's society.

INTRODUCTION

D O O L H O T Secondary research: Articles Books Blogs Documentaries Magazines Social Media Websites

WHAT IS A TREND? A trend is a reflection of the spirit of the times. In the world they have a strong purpose as they show direction and change; having power over the way society, culture, economics and other sectors move. The fashion industry is shaped by trends which are influenced by three drivers; mega, macro and micro. These have different effects on the fashion industry, influencing different factors for different periods of times. Not only do these drivers have an effect which individual fashion items are popular at any time, they can be used to predict what will be popular amongst consumers in the near future and allow businesses to design and supply for the demand.

In todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s society, media and technology play a huge role when it comes to the subject of fashion. With the development of social media, sites such as Instagram have become popular platforms for users to share their latest outfits, which can be seen by millions of people. This can easily influence a growth in a trend as the popularity of a particular product increases with more people buying it and styling it because of one particular user. This encourages the Trickle-Up Theory due to trends starting with consumers and working its way up into higher society and designers. As the use of blogs and other social platforms are more evident in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s society, visuals of trends are more accessible to consumers rather than just seeing them in traditional forms of media such as magazines. Social media influencers are extremely powerful when encouraging consumers to adopt trends they follow or create. Their followers are more likely to buy from the certain brand they wear because they trust the opinion they are sharing online, influencing consumers on mass scale. Despite the obsession with technology and social media, magazines are still a popular source of information for the fashion scene. 8

INFLUENCES OF TRENDS

n today’s society, an increased number of consumers are becoming more conscious of where their belongings are being made and who by. This has caused for many retailers to be more transparent with where their goods are being made. Campaigns such as “Who made my clothes?” formed by Fashion Revolution encourages the uniting of retailers and their manufactures. During Fashion Revolution week, influenced by the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory, brands and producers are encouraged to respond with the hashtag #imadeyourclothes to demonstrate the transparency in the supply chain for consumers to see (Fashion Revolution, 2018).

The economy has great influence on fashion and where consumers chose to shop. During a recession, consumers will buy from more affordable shops due to having less disposable income to spend. Fast fashion retailers with affordable prices have an advantage during this time as the latest trends are being provided to shoppers at the low cost they desire.

The development of fashion mainly has three sources when referring to culture. The first source is Popular Culture which is heavily influenced by mass media and is viewed by a mass audience. Due to its accessibility, categories such as music, celebrities and films have great dominance on the influence of cultures, individuals and other categories such as fashion as consumers want to dress like influencers they are exposed to, therefore encouraging trends in society. High culture is the second source and is formed from elite activities and inspiration such as visual art, design and architecture. This will influence the way high fashion and designers’ partner with artist to form unique designs. Low culture focuses on local street activities for instants hip hop and graffiti. However these are often adopted by mass culture due to globalisation of the fashion market (UKEssays, 2013).

IMPACTS OF TRENDS

ast fashion revolves around the speed and low costs of frequent collections being delivered to retailers (Perry, 2018). These collections are inspired by catwalk looks and celebrity style in order to meet the needs of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s demanding consumers. As there is huge pressure to produce mass amounts of clothing overseas at such a reduced cost, the environment is negatively impacted, along with its workers and their welfare too. There are many factors that contribute to the environmental impact given by trends; pollution and toxins being just one of the factors. It has been recorded that the textile industry is the second most polluting industry after oil; with the current demand for fast fashion being bigger than ever before, this isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t surprising. Vivid colours, prints and fabrics are extremely appealing to consumers, however when they are created a supply of

toxic chemicals is needed (Perry, 2018). This is evidently harmful to the environment as chemicals often contaminate fresh water supplies, affecting the landscape, wildlife and civilians in developing countries.

Fast fashion puts pressure on each stage of the manufacturing process. Often short cuts will be taken where possible so that products can be produced on schedule. With this in mind, workers might be exploited, receiving a low wage and working in unacceptable conditions in order for retailers to keep their costs low. The Rana Plaza in Bangladesh is an example of this as the commercial building had a structural fail, however workers were told to return to work and continue sewing garments for fast fashion retailers. This led to the building collapsing and killing over 1000 people and injuring many more.

The vote of Brexit left the country unconfident and with an economy downfall. This was of benefit to fast fashion retailers as they were able to supply consumers with the latest trends at low prices, regardless to whether buyers had the confidence and disposable income to spend. Consumers would rather shop at cheaper, lower quality stores. Competition amongst the fast fashion retailers was high as the demand from consumers was apparent as they still wanted the latest trends to be in reach. Retailers such as Primark, H&M and Zara are still popular even with Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s confidence gradually rebuilding, proving a growth in the industry despite the economic downfall. 13

GLOBALISATION IN FASHION Globalisation of the fashion industry has formed one of the biggest employment sectors in the world as the majority of retailers use international suppliers to make their clothes. Cheaper labour and materials allow retailers to make larger profits at lower costs, but also have some benefit to countries effected by poverty. Under developed countries are given the opportunity to compete

in the global industry, helping to give civilians jobs, improve lifestyles and grow economies. Designs, patterns and trends can all be influenced by places around the globe. Fashion takes inspiration from all forms, culture being one of the most important. Without the connection between countries, much of the fashion that exists around the world would

not be apparent in multiple locations. Similarly, most fashion magazines are now produced internationally due to globalisation. They create specific content, designed for individual countries to cater for the target demographic in the geographical location under the same brand name.

TREND FORECASTING Trend forecasting involves forming predictions and pin pointing what target consumers desire from businesses in the future. These predictions are developed by forecasters purely by analysing current events happening around the world along with social and economic situations. These form the macro and micro trends which influence consumer trends or lifestyles, inspiring designersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; innovations to cater for what consumers want/need.

Trend forecasting is extremely important for any business. It allows them to plan ahead, effecting both long term and short term decisions in the company. Different roles within the company will use forecasts in different ways, proving their importance in many different positions. If a trend prediction is delayed, misinterpreted or it is forecasted wrong it will affect an aspect of the business or an employeeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s duty.

THEORIES

The Diamond Shaped Trend Model created by Henrik Vejlgaard is a system used by trend forecasters to allow them to calculate how long a trend will be relevant in the market for. Influences affecting a trend are taken into consideration when calculating the trend’s duration. The model also allows forecasters to see how the trend diffuses between the segregated groups in the diamond.

Trend Creators

Innovators 2.5%

Early Adopters 13.5%

Trendsetters Early Majority 34%

Late Majority 34%

Laggards 16%

Theories are used to explain how consumers respond to trends; causing many trends to run through what is called a “Lifespan”. The Diffusion of Innovation model created by Everett Rogers and later updated by Ryan and Gross, helps business’ to understand how consumers adopt and engage with new trends over time (Hanlon, 2013). The model suggests the popularity of a trend and is used to see which stage the trend is at through the indication of the model’s curve, also revealing the remaining consumer demand and the trends strength and duration.

Sales

FAD

Mainstreamers

Late Mainstreamers

Conservatives Time

Every product has a defined lifecycle, meaning nothing can exist forever (Jackson and Shaw, 2009). The Trend Lifecycle model shows the stages in the lifecycle of a particular product or trend, indicating whether the lifespan was a FAD, long term or dog/flop. In fast fashion, short lifecycles are expected however lifecycles can last for weeks or decades. 16

Early Mainstreamers

Original

Long Term

Flop

Trend Followers

Anti-innovators

TREND ALERT:

BUM BAGS ARE BACK

(Fox, 2017)

he bum bag has not been considered a trend since before 2000. In recent years, the bags were mainly used by holiday and festival goers as an accessory to carry their money and other small valuables, purely due to its practicality. With versatility of the bagâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s position on the body being highlighted in this new trend and the larger variety of styles being produced brands, consumers can see the bum bag as a completely new product; removing all previous â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;uncoolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; stereotypes associated with it. It is now seen as a fashion statement, still remaining as a casual style with its practicality however it is a trend that is incorporated into an outfit rather than just being an added accessory As high end brands have become involved with the trend again, this is different to ever before as anyone can take this accessory and incorporate it to their own outfit. Many different demographics and businesses take inspiration from high end brands and runway shows, this offers the updated trend to a wider audience.

Originated from low culture.

The bag originated hundreds of years ago. It was then rediscovered and redesigned in the 1960s when ski patrols used them to carry around their first aid kits on the mountains. Skiers and hikers helped to popularise them with neon and synthetic fabrics. In the 2000s hipsters were the first to make the bag an iconic fashion statement. Mainstream fashion houses took another attempt to make the bag happen in the new millennium however the bags were committed to female festival goers and ravers. Popular at festivals and as a day and night time accessory.

The functional accessory that will never die

The 1980s was the transition of the bum bag. It transformed from hiking wear to street apparel, also heading towards athleisure. It was popular amongst roller skaters and hip-hop culture.

Always being popular at festivals due to their practicality, 2017 reintroduced bum bags to the catwalks for SS18. High fashion reinvents the design of the bag whilst most high street stores following the trend stick to the traditional single strap.

1990s previewed the bum bag in vogue. It was said to be popular with middle class, middle aged, convenience 21 orientated consumers.

The practicality of the bag being tied securely across the body has attracted the attention of young people such as students who have taken great pride in helping drive the trend whether this is at university, at festivals or on holiday.

KEY DRIVERS 22

After the growth of the trend, the bags reached catwalks. Celebrities and influencers have been seen styling the bags with their everyday wardrobe. Having celebrities approve of the trend encourages acceptance from people who may not like the trend otherwise. Kim Kardashian, A$AP Rocky, Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid are only a few well known icons who have been published both online and offline styling the accessory on the high street.

SHOP SAFARI

Urban Outfitters

Zara

Luvyababes

Topman

Skinny Dip

Primark

High street stores take inspiration from high fashion houses and catwalks and reinvent designs to make it their own and more affordable and suitable for their target demographic. To see how predominant the bum bag trend currently is on the high street, primary research was carried out in stores located in Nottingham. Research showed that the majority of stores targeting a student demographic had evidence of the trend.

Topshop

Topshop, River Island and Zara all had bum bags shown either in their window display, dressed on manikins or towards the front of the store making the product easily locatable. This highlights that the accessory is a trend this Spring/Summer due to the way stores are marketing and displaying the accessory, along with the mass number of designs and options which have not been supplied in stores before now. Prices ranged between ÂŁ5 and ÂŁ25 depending on the retailer and quality of the product, making the trend easily affordable and accessible due to the number of stores that stock the bags.

Topshop

River Island

“I find bum bags handy for nightclubs and things like festivals as you haven’t got the worry of someone pick-pocketing or stealing as its all in one space in plain view and I can feel it. I don’t have the worry about “what bag am I going to wear with this” as for an outfit for ocean/fancy dress/festival or night club attire is widely accepted for any occasion really. In my opinion I don’t use cheap ones as they crumble and get twisted really easily which is not good as they are not as secure.”

Sarah Evans

“I wear my bum bag on a daily basis and have done for about two years now after I discovered my Dad’s old bag when we were clearing out the attic. I love the fact that it’s a bit older than the more modern designs as I know I won’t see anyone else in the same one as mine. It is a part of my outfit, rather than just an added accessory. I love the fact the trend is accepted by many different groups, even though I like my individual style, I know I won’t be stereotyped and that makes me happy.”

Jessica Orsi

“I now own 4 different bum bags all which I use quite regularly, I just think not only are they practical and hassle free but also sometimes make a outfit look cooler. Personally none of the 4 I own I could use as everyday use but looking at the high end brands now producing them would make me definitely consider using it as a everyday look.”

Rebecca Isaacs

As Nottingham is predominantly a student-orientated city due to having two universities, this trend is likely to be popular due to the student culture of partying and wanting convenience and practicality when carrying their belongings. An interview carried out as primary research showed that the bags were especially popular amongst girls when going on a night out as they felt it was more secure than a clutch bag.

“I love wearing a bum bag, its an essential for me on a night out, I used to constantly use clutches and strap bags out which after awhile became annoying and a nuisance. Now that they are so popular and everyone wears them I have so many colours and am constantly using them with different outfits.”

Molly Haley

TREND TRACKING

INTERVIEWS

STYLING SHOOT

Although the bum bag has recent references to street culture/fashion, it will still be associated with its past due to its known stereotypes. In the photoshoot it was important to emphasise the new street style fashion in a stylish manner, whilst also incorporating a sense of the bags age into the location.

Mood: Serious and trendy, follows the style of Dazed Location: Oriental Mart, Hockley. Vibrant, retro looking location relates back to the trends past Models: Sarah Sutton, appropriate for trend demographic and publication audience (18-26 years old) Props: Brown paper bag, inspiration taken from photographer Nick Chard. Suitable for target audience and makes shoot more interesting Lighting: Natural lighting Clothing: Brightly coloured to make the bag stand out, range of bum bags

DAZED EDITORIAL

Bums the word.

The fanny pack is finally back and cooler than ever before; now might that something you never thought youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d hear. The bags entered the runway for fashion weeks of SS18 showing us what style really is.

Photography by Charlotte Dudley-Smith, Styling Uchenna Douglas Modelling by Sarah Sutton Top by Urban Outfitters, trousers by Bershka, left bum bag by Topshop, right bum bag by Primark

Top by Urban Outfitters, trousers by Bershka, shoes by Asos, coat by Depop Opposite page Bum bag by Topshop This page Bum bag by Luvyababes

TRIC

RY EO

P U T E H L

When looking at which direction the bum bag trend has moved in, the Trickle-Up Theory can be applied. This is a theory which focuses on different fashion leaders who start the trend before it moves into another socioeconomic group (Talekar, 2013). This trend can be associated with this theory as it essentially started on the street, in low-socioeconomic groups before reach high fashion and designers.

LIFECYCLE

CONCLUSION

From conducting in depth primary and secondary research, it appears that the bum bag trend is likely to transition into future seasons such as AW18 due to its practicality as well as its appearance. After an interview with a staff member at Topshop, it is said that the bum bag is one of their most common accessories sold this season. Being sold at a range of prices makes the bag affordable for many buyers and also for multiple occasions. The number of styles and designs sold shows its dominance and popularity in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion market which is unlikely to decline until after the festival season.

OVERALL SUCCESS As mentioned it is apparent that bum bags have a high frequency of sales as suggested by a Topshop employee. With ecommerce retailers stocking the product alongside high street retailers, the quantity of bags and designs currently available on the market shows the demand for the trend it there. From research it seems that no retailer has moved the product into the sale category to shift stock, suggesting the bag is still in incline or reaching its peak.

Media Coverage

The bum bag has been seen in multiple publications, the majority of them

Innovators 2.5%

Early Adopters 13.5%

Early Majority 34%

being online. Blog posts and social media exposure has helped to highlight the trend further to the targeted demographic for the trend. Vogue.co.uk published an article in August 2017, ‘Kim, Kendall and Bella’s Battle Of The Bum Bags’ which highlights the start of the trends transition into celebrities wearing them. In March 2018 another article was published stating ‘Bum Bags: The 10 Best To Buy Now’, giving what they believe to be the best 10 bum bags, ranging from high street to designer. This shows the trend has continued to grow since August the year before.

Late Majority 34%

Laggards 16%

Social Media Exposure

Pinterest shares hundreds of pins on the bum bag trend, many of them being street style outfits taken from recent fashion weeks. These images may inspire and encourage the ‘Early Majority’ to buy into this trend as it is introduced into the mass market. The hashtag #bumbag on Instagram has over 70,000 posts, involving both companies and individual people sharing their outfits. The majority of people who have share a photo wearing the bag will not attach the hashtag, which means there is likely to be thousands more images on the social site which promote the trend to their own followers alone.

REFERENCES

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Ellen, C. (2016). Trend Forecasting Part 2. [Blog] The Fashion Crowd. Available at: http://thefashioncrowd.com/trendforecasting-part-2/ [Accessed 17 May 2018].

Articles

Fox, D. (2017). The Complete History of the Fanny Pack. Men’s Health. [online] Available at: https://www.menshealth. com/style/g19544420/complete-history-of-the-fanny-pack-for-men-man-purse/?slide=8 [Accessed 21 May 2018].

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Books

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BIBLIOGRAPHY Broadcast

Clothes to Die For. (2014). [TV programme] BBC2: BBC. Living with Globalisation, Fashion. (2011). [TV programme]. BBC2: BBC. The Secret Life of Your Clothes. (2014). [TV programme] BBC2: BBC.

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The True Cost. (2015). [film] Directed by A. Morgan. Life Is My Movie Entertainment.

Websites

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Getty Images (n.d.). 1980s: The golden age of the fanny pack. [image] Available at: https:// www.menshealth.com/style/ g19544420/complete-historyof-the-fanny-pack-for-menman-purse/?slide=5 [Accessed 30 May 2018].

Filthy Rebena (2017). 90s fanny pack. [image] Available at: http://www.myfatpocket.com/ fashion/trends-style/how-to-stylefanny-packs-the-2017-way.html [Accessed 30 May 2018].

Pinterest (n.d.). 80s rollerskate. [image] Available at: https://www. pinterest.co.uk/ pin/250723904230791456 /?lp=true [Accessed 30 May 2018]. Simon’s JamJar (2014). 80s ski onesies. [image] Available at: http://www.simonsjamjar. com/2014/02/skiing-in-zillertal-exploring-mayrhofen.html [Accessed 21 May 2018].

First Aid 4 Sport (n.d.). first aid bum bags. [image] Available at: https://www.firstaid4sport.co.uk/first-aid-kits-c1/ empty-bags-c8/first-aid-bumbags-p999 [Accessed 30 May 2018]. Jade, A. (2018). Coachella bum bag. [image] Available at: https://sporteluxe.com/7-beltbags-all-the-it-girls-were-wearing-at-coachella/ [Accessed 30 May 2018]. Mckean, E. (2017). RETURN OF THE BUMBAG: THIS SEASON’S IT-GIRL ACCESSORY. [image] Available at: http://stylemagazines.com.au/fashion/bumbag-returns1/ [Accessed 30 May 2018].

ILLUSTRATIONS Dudley-Smith, C. (2018). Topshop Display 1. [image].

Douglas, U. (2018). Urban Outfitters Display Table. [image].

ILLUSTRATIONS Douglas, U. (2018). Primark Bum Bags. [image].

Douglas, U. (2018). River Island Dipslay. [image]. Mull, A. (2017). Is Kendall Jennerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Vintage Louis Vuitton Fanny Pack Fake: An Investigation. [image] Available at: https:// www.purseblog.com/celebrities/ kendall-jenner-fake-louis-vuittonfanny-pack/ [Accessed 30 May 2018].

Dudley-Smith, C. (2018). Zara Display. [image].

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Dudley-Smith, C. (2018). Primark Red Bum Bag. [image].

Dudley-Smith, C. (2018). Topman Display. [image].

Douglas, U. (2018). Skinny Dip Bum Bags. [image].

Dudley-Smith, C. (2018). Outside Location. [image].

Dudley-Smith, C. (2018). Luvyababes Display. [image]. Dudley-Smith, C. (2018). Inside Mart. [image].

Douglas, V. (2018). Molly Haley Ballet. [image].

Dudley-Smith, C. (2018). Topshop Display 2. [image].

Dudley-Smith, C. (2018). Topshop Display 4. [image].

Douglas, U. (2018). Arcade Location. [image].

Dudley-Smith, C. (2018). Sarah Headshot. [image].

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Chard, N. (2017). Paul Smith AW18 2. [image] Available at: http://www. julianwatsonagency.com/ news/kei-terada-paul-smithaw17 [Accessed 18 May 2018].

Dazed (n.d.). Dazed & Confused Magazine Subscription. [image] Available at: https:// www.magazinecafe. co.uk/Dazed-&-ConfusedMagazine-Subscription. cfm [Accessed 18 May 2018].

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Dudley-Smith, C. (2018) Own image, magazine front cover. [image].

Douglas, U. (2018) Own photoshoot, double bum bag. [image].

Youinfashion (2017). London Fashion Week SS 2018. [image] Available at: https:// youinfashion.com.ua/ fashion/accessories/ sumka-na-poyas-glavnyjaksessuar-novogomodnogo-sezona/ [Accessed 30 May 2018].

Bazan, K. (2017). How to style fanny packs. [image] Available at: http:// www.myfatpocket.com/ fashion/trends-style/howto-style-fanny-packs-the2017-way.html [Accessed 30 May 2018].

Dudley-Smith, C. (2018) Own image, paperbag 1. [image].

Dudley-Smith, C. (2018) Own image, paperbag 2. [image].

23% 77%

APPENDIX

Consent Forms

APPENDIX

Instagram Survey Results- Answers from 253 respondents 35% NO.

65% 35%

65%- YES Question 1: Do you think the current spring/summer 18 bum bag trend will continue after this fashion season? 65%- YES. 35% NO.

78% NO.

23% 77%

23%- YES 23% 77%

23% 77%

Question 2. Do you own a bum bag?

29% andInstagram Survey Results Continued- Answers from 58 respondents 65% 71% 35% 65% 35% 65% 29%- DAILY 35%

Question 3. If you own one, do you use it daily or for special events e.g. going out, festivals, holiday etc? 71%- EVENTS

and 5% 95 and 5%

nd 5%

29%- DAILY Question 4. Is your bum bag from a high end brand or a high street brand? 71%- EVENTS

In Store Interview