the
must-have coats, bags &shoes Iconic
canadian
supermodel
liisa wiNkler is hotter than ever!
the
fall
fashion issue
Nostalgia
www.chanel.com
息CHANEL, Inc. CHANEL 速 COCO MADEMOISELLE 速
B速 CHANEL S. de R.L.
130 BOSS 0742/S HUGO BOSS CANADA INC. Phone +1 905 739 2677
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os
60s ELEGANCE, 7Os FREEDOM, 8Os EXCESS, 9Os GLAM
COVER
Canadian Supermodel liiSa Winkler iS Hotter tHan ever—a look BaCk on Her GreateSt Career momentS
FASHION
CultuRE
tHiS SeaSon’S moSt daZZlinG Haute Couture / tHe eleGanCe of tHe 60S returnS / exCluSive intervieW WitH felipe oliveira BaptiSta of laCoSte / tHe iConiC, Sexy BandaGe dreSS from Hervé léGer
an inSide look at Gloss: The Work of Chris von WanGenheim / “dior, tHe neW look revolution” exHiBition in Granville, franCe / in tHe life of Jeremy SCott
StYlE JEWElRY
everytHinG you need to Stay Current: fall trend report/ denim iS tHe neW poWer look / tHe BeSt CoatS of tHe SeaSon
fall in love WitH tHe SeaSon'S lateSt JeWelry
bEAutY
tHe neW Generation of Beauty: 90S minimaliSm / laSt Call Hair Story / noStalGiC SCentS tHat BrinG BaCk memorieS / fall’S BiGGeSt Beauty launCHeS
FItNESS AND HEAltH lIFEStYlE
fit tipS for fall / BaCk to our rootS: tHe farm-to-taBle ConCept iS Here to Stay
filled to tHe Brim WitH rare GemS: tHe BeSt vintaGe StoreS
On the cover: Dress DIANE VON FURSTENBERG at LYLA. Belt DIESEL.Tights HUDSON’S BAY. Sunglasses LOEWE at SSENSE. Photography RIcHARD BERNARDIN. Art Director SYLVAIN BLAIS. Assistant Photographer céSAR OcHOA. Fashion Editor AzAmIT. Assistant Stylist EmmA. model LIISA WINkLER at mODE-ELLE. makeup TRINIDAD RIVAS & ANA-mARIA cImPOIA at mAkE UP FOR EVER. Hair kEVIN HUGHES at mOROccANOIL. Hair Assistant EmmANUELLE cAmPOLIETI. Location HOTEL BONAVENTURE.
fall 2015 N˚31 President: Kathia Wendschuh C.E.O.: Shervin Shirvani Editorial Director: DTK MEDIA INC., Sylvain Blais Editor in Chief: Kathia Wendschuh Director of Operations: Félix Loiselle Digital Director: Miguel Delgado Editor at Large: Stéphane Le Duc PRODUCTION Production Editor: Bianca Taylor Copy Editor: Valérie Silva Credits: Marie-Ève Venne Intern: Julina Sillou FASHION Fashion Editors: Fritz, Cary Tauben, Azamit, George Antonopoulos, Yso, Nadia Pizzimenti ACCESSORIES Accessories Editor: Véronique Dubé LIFESTYLE Lifestyle Editor: Marie-Ève Venne BEAUTY Beauty Director: Bianca Taylor Beauty Editor: Frederika Raymond Fitness & Health Editor: Prana Ovide-Etienne ART DEPARTMENT Creative Director: Sylvain Blais Art Director: César Ochoa Graphic Designers: Sébastien Nicolas, Shair Arias WRITERS Véronique Dubé, Stéphane Le Duc, Prana Ovide-Etienne, Frederika Raymond, Valérie Silva, Bianca Taylor, Marie-Ève Venne, Megan West PR AND EVENTS info@dresstokillmagazine.com ADVERTISING Kathia Wendschuh - US & National 646-643-4053 kathia@dresstokillmagazine.com Paul McCallum - paul@dtkmedia.com WEB DEPARTMENT Editor in Chief: Miguel Delgado Advertising: Félix Loiselle - felix@dtkmedia.com Co-Web Editor in Chief: Riccardo Tucci SUBSCRIPTION info@dresstokillmagazine.com or store.dresstokillmagazine.com DISTRIBUTION info@dresstokillmagazine.com Director of Newsstands: Craig Sweetman CRS Media DRESS TO KILL MAGAZINE Canadian Office: 5555 Rue De Gaspé, Suite 215, Montréal, Québec, Canada, H2T 2A3, 514-272-6187 US Office: 35715 U.S. Highway 40, Unit D-102. Evergreen Colorado, 80439 DRESS TO KILL MAGAZINE is a DTK MEDIA INC. Publication We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage. PRINTED BY TRANSCONTINENTAL in Canada P.P. : 41883012 - ISSN 1923-0869 KILL - ISSN 1923-0877 Dress to Kill WWW.DRESSTOKILLMAGAZINE.COM Facebook: facebook.com/dresstokillmagazine Twitter: twitter.com/dresstokillmag Instagram: dresstokillmagazine In our last issue (summer 2015), “Blonde Ambition,” “Behind the Lens” was written by Alex Camara. In our last issue (summer 2015), “Blonde Ambition,” team credits for “White Standard” are as follows: Photography: Peter Tamlin Assistant Photographer: Hadi Mourad Fashion Editor: George Antonopoulos Model: Jessa at Sutherland Models Hair & Makeup: Greg Wencel at P1M Nails: Nargis Khan at P1M / Tips Nail Bar
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contributors
Maïna AsMilitza opportunities arise, Maïna
yso
evolves in different worlds, all converging towards her boundless curiosity. At a very young age, Maïna was introduced to drawing and painting. Her canvases are now the models and artists with whom she collaborates. Maïna’s inspirations evolve with her style, always punctuated by a unique touch and influenced by music and cinema.
Yso is a fashion stylist trained at Marie-Victorin College. His artistic sensibility links beauty with poetry in a way that is both timeless and innovative. He has worked in the artistic community, in contemporary dance, theatre, cinema, and visual arts.
What is your favourite era?
Nostalgia, for me, is about the loss of life’s most beautiful moments. My favourite era is that which I am in, because I am aware of this loss.
What is your favourite era?
It’s a hard choice, but I'm really into the 60s.
Trinidad rivas
Julina Sillou
Trinidad Rivas, National Education Manager for Make Up For Ever, has worked as a professional makeup artist and teacher for the last 20 years. Trinidad developed his expertise by working in different fields, such as television, theatre, cinema, music, and the fashion industry. Always dynamic and insightful, he continues to push the boundaries of red carpet looks.
What is your favourite era?
Julina is a fashionista born in the Ukraine, even if she doesn’t look like it. From a young age, fashion was a magical world that she wanted to be a part of. After moving to Montreal, she started studying fashion marketing at Marie-Victorin College. Now Julina is doing an internship at Dress to Kill magazine, because being surrounded by models, photographs, and beautiful clothes is where she wants to be.
What is your favourite era?
80s fashion was really cool!
The Romantic period is my favourite because of its tormented heroines and passionate characters. Their concept of beauty was the opposite of the usual standard. The icon of the tragic woman, with dark eyes and pale skin, was born.
Tamara Di Lullo Tamara Di Lullo is the primary nail artist and founder of Montreal’s Candy Nail Bar. She began studying Japanese-style 3D nail art while living in Hong Kong. She has revolutionized the Canadian nail art scene since opening her award-winning salon in 2009. Tamara was recently featured in FLARE magazine as Canada’s top up and coming nail artist.
What is your favourite era?
The 60s! When I was a kid, I was obsessed with the 60s... Twiggy, Paco Rabanne, Mary Quant. My mom was a model in that era, and I would love going through her old print work and Marielle Fleury dresses.
Stephane Scotto di Cesare Stephane, born in Paris, is the former director of a makeup and hairdressing school and of several salons. He has since dedicated himself to his designs and customized training as a “nomad hair designer.” He has won several contests, has big clients, like the Grevin Museum, and holds a position as Art Director. What is your favourite era? All eras inspire me, especially the Charleston era of the 1910s and 1920s.
FASHION
A GIFT
FOR YOU Receive an ELLE CZ Stick Pendant Necklace (a $79 value) with any ELLE purchase of $200* or more.
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editor’s note
S
ome may have missed the shockwave caused by the appearance of the first mini skirt back in the 60s. You might not know this, but back then, there was a guide for how to get out of a car elegantly when wearing the small piece of fabric. Others may have missed the music of the 80s, music on vinyls, the nightlife of the 90s, the time spent getting a look ready for the night, or even the glamorous movies of the 50s. We all grew up with these images and with this music burned indelibly into our imagination. When we create, we constantly refer to this imagery to nourish our inspiration. In this issue, we wanted to share some of this nostalgia with you. These pages contain nostalgia for great eras that are forever gone, but whose presence can still be felt. Our time exists as a mere shadow of former greatness. Through the lens of nostalgia, we see, so clearly, the risk that our current era will not measure up to those in our memories. Today, society moves very fast—faster than ever. We’re consumed with what’s on our LCD screens, more than
with what’s happening in the world around us. We’re assaulted by information and have barely enough time to digest it all. We have barely enough time to do anything. I sometimes wonder whether we will ever feel nostalgic for our current era—these very days in which time has become our most valuable commodity. As we look back in time in this “Nostalgia” issue, it seems clearer than ever before that what’s slipping through our fingers is time… And, it takes time to make things great and time to enjoy these things. Great times need to be shared collectively, so that someday we feel nostalgia for our own era. Our next issue, “Opulence,” will have everything to keep you dreaming.
KATHIA W.
Editor in Chief
dresstokillmagazine.kw twitter.com/dtk_kw
Style
Shirt and blazer BALMAIN at LA MAISON SIMONS. Jeans GENETIC DENIM. Necklace and handbag CHANEL. Long necklace, earrings, bracelet and belt CAROLE TANENBAUM VINTAGE COLLECTION.
Fall
Fashion special
Dear Normcore, After a couple of seasons of gracing us with your presence, we’re deeply saddened to see you disappear (not!). Who ever said jeans are basic? These looks are as luxurious as luxury gets. Gold chains and fur coats—paired with a killer 90s supermodel attitude, of course—make jeans the new emblem of GLAM. Photography Jean-Claude Lussier Fashion Editor Fritz
Coat PRABAL GURUNG at NATURAL FURS. Vest and jeans ALEXA CHUNG FOR AG JEANS. T-shirt MOSCHINO at LA MAISON SIMONS. Necklace OGILVY. Handbag CHANEL. Shoes ALDO. Earrings and belt CAROLE TANENBAUM VINTAGE COLLECTION.
This page: Top KLING STYLE at DBAPPAREL. One piece G-STAR RAW. Vest NATURAL FURS. Handbag MOSCHINO at LYLA. Shoes MANOLO BLAHNIK at BROWNS SHOES. Earrings and bracelets CAROLE TANENBAUM VINTAGE COLLECTION. Opposite page: Shirt MOSCHINO at LA MAISON SIMONS. Jacket TOPSHOP at HUDSON’S BAY. Jeans TJ. Belt MOSCHINO at LYLA. Earrings, necklaces, pins, and bracelet CAROLE TANENBAUM VINTAGE COLLECTION.
This Page: Vest and jeans NOISY MAY. Shirt TIGER OF SWEDEN. Sweatshirt LOVE MOSCHINO at LA MAISON SIMONS. Bracelet and necklace CHANEL. Earrings, rings, bracelets (right wrist) and belts CAROLE TANENBAUM VINTAGE COLLECTION. Opposite page: Necklace, bracelet, sweater, and coat CHANEL. Jeans RALPH LAUREN at HUDSON’S BAY. Shoes ALDO. Earrings and bracelet (right wrist) CAROLE TANENBAUM VINTAGE COLLECTION. Photography JEAN-CLAUDE LUSSIER. Assistants WILLIAM COLE & GUILLAUME SéGUIN. Fashion Editor FRITz at JUDY INC. Makeup/Hair NICOLAS BLANCHET at FOLIO. Model JESSIANN at MONTAGE MODELS.
style
BOHEMIAN
RHAPSODY This season is all about mixing. Wrap yourself in luxurious patterns, textures, and shapes for an unexpected, yet refined look. The only rule? There are none. Photography Felix Wong Fashion Editor Nadia Pizzimenti
Top, skirt, coat, and purse LOUIS VUITTON. Bracelet ALEXIS BITTAR. Earrings MALORIE URBANOVITch.
BotteGA VeNettA
Color is back!
Photo: Peter reid MiUMiU
BLUMAriNe
Classic Monogram Clutch with Lipstick Printed SAINT LAURENT by Hedi Slimane. Red leather Handbag SAINT LAURENT by Hedi Slimane. White gold Diva Earrings with Onyx, Turquoise and Pavé Diamonds BULGARI $16,000.
Fall in love
Have a look at our top picks for the season. Add a touch of colour to magnetize your look and vitalize your journey. We also think that you absolutely need a structured, camel coat and a vibrant red purse. By KW
TELL ME I’M PRETTY
MiUMiU
Fitted Batik Print Shearling Coat and Suede clutch with Fringe BURBERRY $11,500 and $2,195. Leather court shoes in nude MAXMARA $600. Eyewear CHRISTIAN DIOR $575.
PRADA
Ready to shine!
BOSS
DIOR
Sunglasses CHANEL 565. Bespoke handbag BOSS $2,795.
the boss is a woman Megaton Camelhair Trench Style Wrap Coat MAXMARA $2,590.
Fitted Tailor Wool Coat BURBERRY $4,595. Double Breasted Black Wool Coat SAINT LAURENT $6,100.
these boots are made for walkin Boots TORY BURCH $750. Shoulder bag Harnais HERMĂˆS $10,045. BOSS $1,895.
Top, skirt, coat, and shoes MIU MIU. Cuff EDDIE BORGO at HOLT RENFREW.
Sweater and coat T BY ALEXANDER WANG. Pants and boots J. CREW COLLECTION. Ring ALEXIS BITTAR.
Top and pants MALORIE URBANOVITCH. Coat GUCCI. Necklace SHOUROUK. Bracelets STYLIST’S OWN.
Dress and coat PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI. Ring PAULA MENDOZA.
Opposite page: Top CÉLINE at HOLT RENFREW. Necklace ALEXIS BITTAR. Sweater and pants COS. Cuffs STYLIST’S OWN. This page: Left: Dress VALENTINO. Scarf STYLIST’S OWN. Boots COS. Cuffs ALEXIS BITTAR. Right: Dress and scarf COACH. Shirt MALORIE URBANOVITCH. Necklace SHOUROUK.
Eyewear
CHANEL
BULGARI
Serpentine shoulder bag $2,400.
Gucci Shoulder bag CHRISTIAN DIOR gold leather shoulder bag
Statement pieces that are sure to make you shine JIMMY CHOO Lockett handbag $2,965.
DIOR
Leather cuff with pearl CHRISTIAN DIOR.
Fur handbag
RUDSAK
D&G
Pink Leather Handbag with Charm DOLCE & GABBANA $3,245.
Marina boot in boho pink suede $1,250.
Booties
JIMMY CHOO
Opposite page: Full look CHANEL. This page: Top, skirt, coat, and shoes MIU MIU. Cuff EDDIE BORGO at HOLT RENFREW.
This page: Dress and coat PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI. Boots COACH. Ring PAULA MENDOZA. Opposite page: Top and pants MALORIE URBANOVITCH. Coat GUCCI.Necklace SHOUROUK. Bracelets STYLIST’S OWN. Photography: FELIx WONG at SEEN ARTISTS. Fashion Editor: NADIA PIZZIMENTI Model: ANTONINA PETKOVIC at THE SOCIETY MANAGEMENT. Hair: KIRI YOSHIKI. Makeup: NINA PARK at THE WALL GROUP FOR NARS.
SHOPPING NEWS By KW
Chopard
Get the superstar treatment while buying one of the most glamorous and luxurious watches. Jewelry maker Chopard is about to open its first store in Canada, in the renowned L'ORO jewelry store, this September. The new flagship store is located in Sherway Gardens mall, in Toronto.
DIor Vancouver is becoming the niche luxury destination of Canada, and Dior just opened its largest boutique in North America there! The original Paris Avenue Montaigne flagship boutique, designed by Peter Marino, inspires this super posh two-level boutique. You will feel like a real Cinderella in the shoe salon. This location also offers fine jewelry. The store is located in the Fairmont Hotel.
InternatIonal DOVER STREET MARKET x Gucci The concept store founded by Rei Kawakubo, designer of Comme Des Garçons and Dover Street Market, announced its first Gucci collaboration. The pop-up shop will be in all DSM locations (Tokyo, New York, London and Beijing), launching the first collection by Creative Director Alessandro Michele and the new Gucci vision. The New York opening is on September 10th, and it’s worth checking out if you happen to be in the city for NYFW. The store, located on the seventh floor and with a side street entrance, is also a great place to grab lunch.
Bestseller
If you don't know them yet you are about to; this Denmark multi-brand distributor is opening several Canadian stores, starting with four Quebec locations; Winnipeg will be next in Spring 2016. This unisex concept store is on a mission, keeping you on the pulse of the latest trends. Their simple mandate: to offer bestsellers season after season. Their brands include Selected, Vero Moda, Jack & Jones, Only & Sons, and YAS.
Seasons
422, avenue Mont-Royal Est, Montréal (Québec) H2J 1W1 514-844-4886 www.assaleh.ca
Fall for these jewels
alexis bittar campaign
jewelry
This season, clothes are bold, and all it takes is one look-at-me piece of jewelry to complement the look. Jewelry designers and luxury brands are making a style statement with antique designs and unusual or precious materials. They’ve shared with us how one moment can change your life. by Véronique Dubé
Deeply inspired by underground fashion and music and the antique collectibles he grew up in the presence of, Alexis bought some Lucite and began carving his collection in his one-bedroom apartment. Selling his one-ofa-kind pieces in Soho, he was discovered by Dawn Mello, Fashion Director of Bergdorf Goodman. By 1995, Alexis expanded his business with Saks Fifth Avenue, Harrods in London, and Isetan in Japan, among others. With fans including Michelle Obama and Cameron Diaz, Alexis is also known as the creator of custom designs for the girls of Sex and the City. He is the owner of eponymous boutiques all across the US, collaborator for Estée Lauder, Michael Kors, Dennis Basso, Michael Angel, Jason Wu, Jeremy Scott, and Thierry Mugler, and winner of many prestigious awards.
“
Get ready for this season! fall in love with these raven black feathers. find the playful side of costuMe Jewelry. or, adopt the iconic hand-painted lucite in a delicious Green colour.
“
Born in 1968 and raised in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn, Alexis Bittar started selling flowers from a hand-painted cart at age 10. He was 13 when his parents, both university professors and antique collectors, gave him $300 worth of antique jewelry as a birthday present. He sold it on St. Mark’s Street in New York City, and then spent the profit on more jewelry to sell. That was the debut of his commercial operations. In the following years, he juggled school, the New York City club scene, and the streets of lower Manhattan, where he partied hard and sold antique jewelry and vintage clothing. In 1997, at age 22, Alexis put aside his crazy clubbing days to focus on his career; he wanted to become a jewelry designer.
raven portrait cameo Feather clip earrings.
The Prince of coSTUMe Jewelry
alexis bittar
Alexis BittAr
Jelly belly poodle pin
lucite Fringe pyramid clip earring
everything is better with
diamonds Discover the watches from the Promesse collection by Swiss-made excellence Baume & Mercier. These iconic, elegant timepieces for women are set with 61 diamonds on a round 34 mm steel case. Want to add some sparkle to your most outstanding outfit? The Promesse 10199 silver-colored “drapé guilloché” dial, enhanced with a white mother-of pearl bezel, roman numerals, and diamonds, is the perfect feminine touch. Featuring a stainless steel polished bracelet, this watch fits the modern woman’s lifestyle. Looking to light up the night? The Promesse 10166—with a black-colored “drapé guilloché” dial, genuine black mother-of-pearl bezel, and glossy black alligator strap—is waiting for you.
Promesse - 10199
sweet as honey
Promesse - 10166
August 13th was the official opening of Myel Bijouterie. Located on 1090 Laurier Avenue West, Montreal, the store has been completely— and beautifully—renovated. Designer and President of Myel, Myriam Elie, presented jewelry inspired by nature’s master craftsman, the honeybee. Hexagonal latticework, which evokes the honeycomb, stars, marine cordage, and amazon designs complete the Myel collection. Fun fact: This all started during a trip to Germany, when Myriam’s jewelry had been stolen. To replace it, she started to handcraft her own pieces of jewelry. Self-taught, Myriam designs her creations as souvenirs of the many countries she has visited. Working with the Assaleh brothers, renowned jewelers in Montreal, Myriam creates pieces that are made of gold, sterling silver, and natural gemstones. Guests were treated to cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, and alveolus-shaped cakes, as they got an eyeful of jewels and enjoyed the festive atmosphere.
Amour-BlAnc eArrings
Bee ring
Étoile de Fès ring
FASHION
Haute Couture turns over a new leaf
The exclusive world of Parisian haute couture invited guests and journalists to discover the season’s most innovative creations. Over the course of four days, viewers admired the endless stream of luxury garments handmade to measure in the ateliers of haute couture’s permanent members. As per usual, Paris Fashion Week succeeded in dazzling its attendees. By Stéphane Le Duc
Chanel
Every season, Chanel’s haute couture runway is one of the most anticipated. What surprise does Karl Lagerfeld have in store for us? Since his début with the fashion house in 1983, Lagerfeld has led Chanel devotees to where they least expect. This time, he invited us to “Le Cercle Privé,” an Art Deco style casino installed at the centre of the Grand Palais. The show began in silence with the arrival of the croupiers to a circle of poker tables and slot machines. But, the true surprise was the arrival of fashion’s elite. First entered Geraldine Chaplin, followed by Vanessa Paradis, and then Rita Ora, Stella Tennant, Kristen Stewart, and, finally, the always-stunning Julianne Moore wearing a Chanel Comète necklace—a style first created by Coco
Chanel in 1932. Following Lagerfeld’s handpicked guests was a succession of silhouettes in quilted, matelassé, embroidered, matte, and glossy fabrics. Models clad in voluminous coats, traditional tweed ensembles, and elegant silk shoes, sported sleek bob cuts à la Louise Brooks. At the show, Lagerfeld unveiled the Chanel suit of the 21st century: a seamless piece created using revolutionary selective laser sintering technology. This complex technology uses a laser to sinter powdered material according to a model programed in a 3-D printer. And, no couture runway show is complete without a wedding gown. In this show, the “gown” was a pantsuit elegantly worn by model of the moment Kendall Jenner. With Lagerfeld, tradition is always brilliantly reinterpreted.
jean paul
Gaultier
Among the big stars in fashion, Jean Paul Gaultier always shines the brightest. In haute couture, designers are given the utmost liberty to innovate as they wish; Gaultier does so behind a façade of levity and humor. In tribute to Brittany, Gaultier revisits his iconic blue and white mariner stripes, characteristic of the seaside location, and celebrates the distinguished lace makers of the region. Mariner coats and pants become luxurious pieces that compliment the female figure—as do his crêpe-like circular skirts and white clogs. Meanwhile, Gaultier draws on traditional headdresses to create bold, fantastical forms that often incorporate models’ own hair. In this visual delirium, one may be slow to realize that Gaultier’s pieces are more than spectacle; they are also designed for admires who stand in fitting rooms around the world. A wedding dress made of lace and wild animal hides, worn by model Anna Cleveland, and a band of bagpipers, dressed in old-fashioned Breton garb, conclude the show. Thanks to Jean Paul Gaultier, we are free to shout, “long live Brittany, and long live haute couture!”
AlexAndre vAuthier
Among the couturiers who have modernized haute couture, Alexandre Vauthier is surely one of the most important. He manages to attract a new generation of women while respecting the skills of his predecessors. Although officially inducted into the exclusive inner circle of haute couture last December, the designer has been making his mark since the opening of his house in 2008. His designs of slim pants, plunging necklines, and asymmetrical cuts celebrate the body. Fringes adorn zipped leather dresses, the bottoms of skirts, and the sleeves of mini dresses, while gold tubing adds sex appeal to his pieces. With this collection, Vauthier, like Lagerfeld, proves his technological prowess; he embellishes muslin and silk dresses with gold-coated galvanized tubes that take over three months to create. The haute couture atelier, we must remember, is also a laboratory of research and exploration. Vauthier proves once again that it is possible to find the perfect point of balance between luxury, elegance, and sensuality. His first shoe line is set to launch in February 2016.
Schiaparelli Expectations were high for Schiaparelli, with new Creative Director Bertrand Guyon presenting his first couture collection for the brand. The house made a wise choice in trusting one whose mentors were none other than Givenchy, Lacroix, and Valentino. The designer explains, “I am at an important moment in my life. My past experiences, strengths, and passions have culminated in this project, putting me on centre stage for the very first time.” Guyon led us into “Le Théâtre d’Elsa,” where iris designs, constellation patterns, and shocking pink chiffon intermingle. Exceptional works of embroidery elevate Guyon’s straight and slender silhouettes. His materials are luxurious, yet light and airy. The future is assured for one, like Guyon, who has found the perfect balance between history and modernity.
elie sAAb
Opulence is a mainstay for Elie Saab, and it is no different this time around. The title of the collection, “Shades of Gold,” refers to the captivating colour used in the designer’s first collection in the 90s. The creator’s talent is displayed in his mastery of embroidery, which recalls the lavishness of the Byzantine robes in The Arabian Nights. Each dress exhibits the expertise of artisans whose pale pink, soft green, and sand-coloured embroidery intertwine with gold thread. The show ends with a fairytale dress embroidered in gold thread and paired with an antique gold, lace veil—homage to the designer’s 25th wedding anniversary. The masterpiece also concludes the love story between Elie Saab and haute couture.
Alexis MAbille
Recently awarded the prestigious medal of “Knight of Arts and Letters,” young couturier Alexis Mabille led attendees into the Palais Garnier, Paris’ most famous opera house, for a tribute to the 15 women who dotted his creative trajectory over the past ten years. His muses, including film icon Leslie Caron, actress Bérénice Bejo, dancer Marie-Agnès Gillot, and burlesque dancer Dita Von Teese, each inspired one of his designs. His creations are indebted to the eternal beauty of each of these women.
Cloak JEAN LUTÈCE FRANCE 1966. Dress ELGAR’S BAZAAR CANADA 1967. 18K Pink Long Mesh Earrings. Bullet Citrine and Caramel Diamonds. Lotus Root Set -18k Gold Bracelet. All jewelry by GLORIA BASS.
I put a spell on you Draped in classic vintage pieces from the 60s— plucked from the racks of the Museum of Costume and Textile of Quebec—she channels Holly Golightly’s romantic look. We’re overcome by a serious case of era envy. Photography Sylvain Blais Fashion editor Yso Makeup & nails Julie Saint Laurent Hair Stephane Scotto Di Cesare
Dress Clairette truDel 1960-1965, CanaDa. lotus root Set - 18k Gold necklace with Orange Sapphire (worn as headpiece). 18k Gold earrings. lotus root Set18k Gold Bracelet. all jewelry by GlOria BaSS.
Opposite page: Dress RAOUL-JEAN FOURRÉ, CANADA1950-1969. 18K Gold, Pearl, and Diamond Acorn Earrings. Oval Citrine and Diamond Ring. Wraparound Ring. All jewelry by GLORIA BASS. This page: Dress HEFTCO FOR EATON’S, CANADA 1966. Headpiece GERTRUDE NÉRON, CANADA 1960. Diamond Pavé Oval Hoop Earrings. All jewelry by GLORIA BASS.
Dress HUBERT DE GIVENCHY 1964. Headpiece GERTRUDE NÉRON QUEBEC 1960.Tahitian Pearls. Tsavorite’s Necklace. All jewellery by GLORIA BASS.
Opposite page: Dress CLAIRETTE TRUDEL, CAnADA 1959-1965. Pink Opal and Tanzanite Earrings. Wraparound Ring. All jewelry by GLORIA BASS. This page: Dress HUBERT DE GIVEnCHY 1964. Headpiece GERTRUDE nÉROn, CAnADA 1960.Tahitian Pearls. Tsavorite necklace. All jewelry by GLORIA BASS.
Opposite page: Dress CHRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA, fRANCE 1960. Diamond Pavé Oval Hoop Earrings. 8 Strands of Natural Zircon and Diamond Necklace. Oval Citrine and Diamond Ring. Wraparound ring. All jewelry by GLORIA BASS. This page: Coat PIERRE CARDIN, fRANCE 1965. Dress CHRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA, fRANCE 1960. Bag fIESTA 1950-1965. Pink Opal and Tanzanite Earrings. Rose Quartz Necklace Twisted Toggle. Oval Citrine and Diamond Ring. Wraparound ring. All jewelry by GLORIA BASS. Photography SyLvAIN BLAIS. Assistant Photographer CéSAR OCHOA. fashion Editor ySO at fOLIO. Model MATHILDA at fOLIO. Makeup & Nails JuLIE SAINT LAuRENT at NExT. Hair STEPHANE SCOTTO DI CESARE. Retoucher MARIE-PIER TOuTANT.
All clothing is from the private collection of the Museum of Costume and Textile of Quebec. www.mctq.org 363 de la Commune Street East, Montreal, Quebec.
art
At the Origin Of CreAtiOn At the young age of one, Christian Dior’s parents purchased a magnificent villa at the top of a cliff in Granville, Normandy. It was in this fairy tale setting, with its gardens and terraces overlooking the ocean, that Dior developed the spirit and sensibility that would make him one of the most influential couturiers of his generation. In 1997, the villa, which had been bought by the city in the 1930s, officially became the Christian Dior Museum. On exhibit today is: “Dior, The New Look Revolution.” The exhibition explores the impact of his 1947 collection—one that would trouble the norms of a post-war society and make a legend of a timid man who dreamt only of beauty. By Stéphane Le Duc
A
ccording to Patrimony Project Manager Vincent Leret, the existence of this museum is essential to understanding the legendary couturier’s source of inspiration. In his autobiography, Dior, the fashion designer explains, “I have the most tender and amazed memories of my childhood home. I would even say that my life and my style owe almost everything to its site and architecture. The property directly overlooked the sea, stood behind a gate, and was exposed to atmospheric storms; it was an image of what my life would become— anything but serene. It was painted in a very soft pink, and its foundations were of grey stone; I continued to have
a predilection for these two colours in my couture.” Even if his family later moved to Paris, Dior returned each summer during his youth to maintain his garden and perfect his knowledge of botany. Leret points out the development of the water plan and pergola that Dior had designed at 20 years old with the encouragement of his mother who gave him the liberty to create the space as he wished. It contains exotic plants and palm trees that recall the Mediterranean, more than the region of Normandy. Leret explains, “this knowledge of flowers and landscaping inspired his collections, and a number of his pieces are named after different species of roses.” Leret is certain that Dior developed his superior sense of smell through his contact with flowers. His ol-
factory sense went on to directly impact his career as he forayed into the world of perfumes. Even if the villa contains few possessions from the period that the family lived in Granville, one will still find details to spark the imagination: a compass bezel on the ground, birds painted on the ceiling, and glass doors that frame the fireplace—the very ones that served as inspiration for the couture salons of Montaigne Avenue, Paris. Today, the space lends itself perfectly to the exhibition, which holds a selection of unique haute couture creations from 1947 to the present, as well as photographs, original designs, manuscripts, and, of course, the infamous Miss Dior perfume bottle crafted by Baccarat glassmakers and launched in the same historical year as Dior’s “New Look” designs. The exhibition goes to the source of the creative genius and allows viewers to appreciate the complexity of Dior clothing, as well as its lasting quality. What is sure to garner the most attention is a reproduction of the celebrated “Bar” suit. Of the 95 models presented on the 12th of February, 1947, in the couture salons of 30 Avenue Montaigne, history will only remember the one: the “Bar.” The afternoon look consists of a black, wool, calf-length skirt and a beige, silk shantung jacket. With this homage to the female form, Dior inadvertently sparked a revolution. He writes, “We were emerging from a period of war, of uniforms, of women-soldiers built like boxers. I drew flower women, soft shoulders, full
busts, willowy waists, and wide skirts like corolla flowers in full bloom.” The press exploded and the now famous words of Carmel Snow, Editor in Chief of Harper’s Bazaar, made the collection a legend: “It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian! Your dresses have such a new look!” Far from presenting a static moment in time, the exhibition shows that the influence of Dior’s work has lasted through the decades—especially through the Creative Directors who followed him. What’s more is that Dior’s legacy was formed over a mere 10-year period before his death. It is with great pleasure that we can see the works of John Galliano, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré and current director Raf Simons for whom the “Bar” is a timeless icon. Simons’ red, cashmere Dior coat can be admired as a sign of his mastery of the Dior universe. Visitors will exit this enchanted site fascinated by the aura of one who has forever changed the history of fashion. Our only desire is to return to Granville as soon as possible….
Dior, The New Look Revolution Until 1 November 2015. www.musee-dior-granville.com Christian Dior Museum in Granville, France.
valentino
chloé fall/winter 2015
beauty
The hoTTesT Fall launches Fall marks the start of a new year in fashion &beauty.
The little kid in me still wants to head to the mall to pick out a schoolbag, a shiny pair of shoes, and a new pack of “days of the week” underwear. The adult in me knows that with every change of season comes a new beauty regime. We’re going back to beauty school, and you’re coming with us. By Bianca Taylor VAlmont
clarifying Touch ($145).
This little tool packs a serious punch. Use the tip of the applicator brush to apply product locally, both in the morning and at night. This powerful formula works to erase stubborn dark spots and to unify skin tone. We like to think of it as the beauty equivalent of the “Magic Eraser.”
coVeRGIRl
intensify me! liquiD eyeliner By lAshBlAst ($11). This new marker paddle tip liner puts you back in the driver’s seat when it comes to eyeliner #struggles. The thick end helps perfect bold graphic lines, while the thin angle helps create a more demure and elegant look. You can get seriously creative with this artful pen.
chRIsTIan DIoR
DiorBlush Cheek stiCk in Cosmopolite rosewooD ($41).
This is the ultimate treat for lazy girls who want to look polished without having to spend the entire morning wrestling with complicated brushes and powders. Dab once or twice on your cheekbones, blend with fingers, and show off a lit-from-within glow that’ll last all day (this product has serious staying power).
lA prAirie
skin caviar concealer Foundation ($250).
Forget everything you thought you knew about foundation and concealer. The masterminds at La Prairie have once again upped the ante. This nifty contraption holds liquid foundation at its base and a concealer (half a shade lighter) in its bottle cap. The formula—infused with caviar extracts that shield the skin from aging factors— leaves you with a naturally dewy glow.
nArs
audacious Mascara ($34).
A wand designed with over 200 molded bristles and lengthening hooks (it’ll catch those stubborn outer corner lashes, I promise) meets a hardworking formula that stays soft and flexible all day long. Now that’s the true definition of a match made in heaven.
photo césar ochoa, make up & hair: ewa Bilinska
beauty news PHYTOKÉRATINE exceptional Mask ($54).
A mask that does for your hair what a meditation retreat does for your mind. This ultra rich repairing product—laden with Phyto’s renowned botanical keratin—envelops hair fibres and leaves hair feeling healthy, lightweight, and totally renewed. Therapy not included.
RIMMEl
nude Collection by Kate Moss ($8 each). Pale Nude, Apricot Nude, Tan Nude & Rose Nude
When the queen of nude lips creates custom-made nude lipstick shades, we listen. These ultra-pigmented nude shades (each catering to a different undertone) are sure to make you the coolest girl in the room.
MIu MIu
Miu Miu eau de Parfum ($100 for 50 mL).
I haven’t been this excited about perfume since I realized I could use it instead of showering regularly. This perfume has it all. With base notes of florals, intertwined with rich land scents, this perfume will be a top pick for all the fashion girls come fall.
saLLy Hansen
MIRAclE GEl IN cREAM Of THE cROP ANd MIRAclE GEl TOP cOAT ($12)
Save your dollars, and skimp out on your weekly trip to the nail salon with this miracle polish. The polish and topcoat duo mimic the look of a gel manicure by adding volume and a mirror-like finish.
cHANEl
lE WEEKENd ÉdITION dOucE ($125 fOR 50 Ml).
Even though your brain is turned off for the weekend doesn’t mean your skin gets to slack off. Le Weekend works hard when you don’t. It balances, hydrates, and soothes your skin in preparation for a brand new week.
beauty
every me,
every you
We’re taking you back to 90s minimalism. These kids are cool, free & rebellious. They reject all the adornments of fashion and redraw the boundaries of beauty. Dark lips, piercings, and shaggy cuts become an emblem of selfexpression; they don’t care whether you like it or not.
Photography Max Abadian Fashion Editor Emmanuelle Rochon Hair & Makeup Nicolas Blanchet
Prep: AVÈNE Thermal Spring Water. Skin: MAC CoSMETiCS Studio Face and Body Foundation. Eyes: BEN NYE Mediapro Eye Definer in Espresso. Eyes and Lips: ELiZABETH ARDEN Eight Hour Cream Skin Protectant. Hair: oRiBE Sculpting Cream. T-Shirt MiiYU at LA MAiSoN SiMoNS. Coat ViNTAGE at EVA B.
Foundation: MAC COSMETICS Studio Face and Body Foundation. Eyes: MAKE UP FOR EVER Artist Shadow Matte Finish in Black and MAC COSMETICS Extended Play Gigablack Lash. Lips: NARS Pure Matte Lipstick in Madère. Earrings ATELIER 24. Necklace VINTAGE at EVA B. Top VÊTEMENTS at CAHIER D’EXERCICES. Pants BALENCIAGA at CAHIER D’EXERCICES.
Skin: MAC COSMETICS Studio Face and Body Foundation. Eyes: MAKE UP FOR EVER Artist Shadow Matte Finish in Black. Lips: MAC Lipmix in Black. Foundation: LAURA MERCIER Secret Camouflage. Jean jacket VINTAGE at EVA B. Coat VINTAGE at EVA B. Panties CALVIN KLEIN at LA MAISON SIMONS. Ring EYLAND at LA MAISON SIMONS.
Prep: AVÈNE Thermal Spring Water. Skin: MAC COSMETICS Studio Face and Body Foundation. Hair: BUMBLE AND BUMBLE Brilliantine and L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Tecni.Art Super Dust. Tank top VINTAGE at EVA B. Pants LA MAISON SIMONS.Accessory LES CERISES DE MARS at LA MAISON SIMONS.
Prep: AVÈNE Thermal Spring Water. Skin: MAC COSMETICS Studio Face and Body Foundation. Eyes: BEN NYE Mediapro Eye Definer in Black and NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Portobello. Lips: NARS The Multiple in Copacabana and ELIZABETH ARDEN Eight Hour Cream Skin Protectant. Hair: BUMBLE AND BUMBLE Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil. Earrings ATELIER 24. Jean jacket VINTAGE at EVA B. Top VINTAGE at EVA B. Sports bra CALVIN KLEIN at LA MAISON SIMONS. Jeans VÊTEMENTS at CAHIER D’EXERCICES. Photography MAX ABADIAN. Assistant Photographer GREG BECK. Fashion Editor: EMMANUELLE ROCHON. Models MELIE at NEXT. SARA at NEXT. JULES at SAAD. PAMELA at MONTAGE. ARIEL at FOLIO. Makeup & Hair NICOLAS BLANCHET at FOLIO.
beauty
The Best of Organic Skincare You eat nutritious foods for their mental and physical health benefits. So, why not do the same for your beauty routine? Treat your skin well by using natural, organic, and chemical-free products. By Marie-Ève Venne
Pai
Roseship Bioregenerate Oil ($40).
earth Tu Face
Putting oil on your face is the best thing you can do to transform its appearance. With this rich concentrate, your skin will transition from dull to glowing and firm. It also helps boost the natural healing process of the skin by improving the appearance of fine lines and sun damage. Don’t be afraid of the idea of putting oil on your face; we promise you’ll end up with anything but greasy skin.
Exfoliant PowdEr Mask ($96).
This mask is like getting a facial without having to leave your home. It’s so gentle that it can be used daily. Made of clay, flower petals, and oats, this exfoliant formula will join your skin in its fight against dryness and clogged pores. The best part: this magic powder doesn’t require a spell.
shaManuti
activatEd charcoal clEansEr ($46). Charcoal has been used since Ancient Egypt to help with all kinds of skin problems. Shamanuti draws on ancient cleansing rituals to produce an effective treatment for acne. Its ingredients—activated charcoal, vitamins, and lemon—help absorb impurities. Your boyfriend can use it as a shaving cream, too.
The Detox Market Odacité
caMElina chaMoMillE sEruM concEntratE ($46).
This facial serum might just be the best thing to happen to those with sensitive skin. Made with pure essential and cold-pressed oils, this serum does not only smell divine, but it also boosts tired skin and reduces redness. This is skin therapy at its finest!
When I die, please scatter my ashes in The Detox Market (is that creepy?). They have a playground of specially curated products to help you achieve a “detoxed lifestyle.” Don't worry about running into any patchouli smelling hippies—this location is as luxe as green will ever get. Bonus: the owner’s own brand, Odacité, is so good that you’ll never want to use anything else (kiss your extra cash goodbye).
367 King Street West, Toronto, Ontario. 96 Scollard Street, Toronto, Ontario. By Bianca Taylor
fragrances
noStalgic ScentS
1 Have you ever had the misfortune of catching a whiff of your ex boyfriend’s cologne during an unexpected moment? Our olfactory experiences are so evocative that a certain scent may conjure a rush of long gone memories and emotions. Indeed, a good perfume can whisk you away to another time or place; the sense of smell is probably the closest we’ve come to time travel. With so many new perfumes being launched each year, we’ve decided to play homage to the classic perfumes that have withstood the test of time (with great reason, of course!). By Bianca Taylor
3 2 5
6
4
7 1.CHANEL N°5 , Eau de Parfum ($150 for 100 mL). 2. NINA RICCI L’Air du Temps, Eau de Toilette ($98 for 100 mL). 3. GUERLAIN Shalimar Extract ($150 for 7.5 mL). 4. CALVIN KLEIN ck one, Eau de Toilette ($42 for 50 mL). 5. CHRISTIAN DIOR Miss Dior, Eau de Parfum ($112 fo 50 mL). 6. JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Classique, Eau de Toilette ($103 for 50 mL). 7. THIERRY MUGLER Angel, Eau de Parfum ($138 for 50 mL).
BEAUTY
Controlled
Chaos
Remember beauty in the early millennium? There are few things more amusing than reminiscing about iron-straight hair and French manicures. Obviously, we’ve transitioned into a more elusive and laid-back aesthetic since then. Of course, the idea of “perfectly imperfect” beauty isn’t new and has been growing for quite a few seasons. While effortless beauty is still the most desired aesthetic, fall 2015 is all about making it a bit less obvious. When in doubt, just remember: beauty today is about eluding the idea of being too cool to care, while being too glamorous to ignore. By Megan West
MICHAEL KORS FW 2015
The Laid-Back Lip A cardinal rule is keeping your mouth toned-down when taking creative liberties with the rest of your hair and makeup. That doesn’t mean that things need to be boring. Try a deeply pigmented, rich formula like MAybelline new york Color Sensational The buffs in “nude lust” ($10). To evade any attention-seeking shine try CArgo Matte Top Coat ($24) for a suede-like finish. The final result will be a truly nude, yet richly textured, look.
VERSACE FW 2015
TheDeciDeDly
Dishevelled
Sombré
While we haven’t said goodbye to multi-tonal hair, we are shifting away from the classic ombré. "One of the top hair trends this fall is sombré (soft ombré). If you want these perfectly imperfect highlights, ask your stylist for a soft fusion of colour that can be achieved by creating freehand baby lights towards the face, resulting in beautiful face framing colour,” says Rossa Jurenas, Schwarzkopf Professional's North American Colour Director. Of course, pulling off a convincing natural-looking sombré is only the first step to effortless hair domination. Rossa takes the complication out of recreating a “messychic” look, insisting that it’s “not as difficult to achieve as you would think, as long as you're using the right products! A must-have is the OSIS+ Soft Glam Prime Prep Spray($21), which can be applied through the mid-lengths and ends, followed by OSIS+ Soft Glam Plumping Shine Mousse ($21) at the roots. Using both of these products in different areas of the hair will create a great foundation at the roots for definition and volume. After blow drying, use OSIS+ Dust It Mattifying Powder ($24) on the root area to create texture and volume, while slightly distributing it on the ends for a loose, messy-chic style."
The Modern day
Smokey eye
DVF FW 2015
According to James Vincent, Director of Artistry for Ardency Inn, when it comes to controlled chaos and eye makeup it’s “all about applying a look that has drama and excitement, but also understanding how to build in structure to keep eye makeup application looking purposeful and polished.” James suggests we “play with makeup and combine colours and textures for something new and different.” Keep things unexpected with a reverse cat eye. “Start with ARDeNCy INN Modster Smooth Ride Supercharged eyeliner in Black or Brown ($22) on the waterline. Next apply Modster Smooth Ride Supercharged
eyeliner in Gold ($22) on the lid from crease to lash. Let it set for it to be waterproof. With a soft brush apply ARDeNCy INN Modster Manuka Honey enriched Pigments in Copper ($24) from crease to lash and work it deeper into the crease back and forth like a windshield wiper. Generously apply Punker Unrivaled Volume & Curl Lash Wax ($27) to the top lashes, paying attention to the root. Finish with Modster Smooth Ride Supercharged eyeliner in Black ($22) on the bottom lash line, and give it a kitten flick on the end that is angled towards the eyebrow.
last call
Inspired by looks from different eras (Cher in the 70s, Michelle Pfeiffer in Scarface in the 80s, and Lauryn Hill in the 90s), these girls spent hours prepping their hair for a big night out. Feeling vexed after not having picked up potential suitors at the club, they head to their favourite fast food joint. Indulging in some comfort food will help them forget the lame crowd. Their hair is chic—and that’s the only thing that matters now. Photography Sylvain Blais Makeup Sabrina Rinaldi Hair Louis Hechter Nails Tamara Di Lullo Fashion Editor Cary Tauben
Eyes: MAKE UP FOR EVER Artist Shadow in Golden and Golden Brown ($25). Hair: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Hollywood Waves Sweetheart Curls. ($23). Sweater and overalls HERMèS.
Lips: MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua Lip in 8C ($23). MAKE UP FOR EVER Artist Plexi-Gloss ($23). Hair: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Dual Stylers by Tecni.Art Sleek & Swing ($26). L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Texturizing Powders by Tecni.Art Texture Dust ($19). Blouse and ring GUCCI.
Eyes: MAKE UP FOR EVER Lash Fibers ($25). MAKE UP FOR EVER Smoky Extravagant Mascara ($28). Hair: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Wild Stylers Crêpage De Chignon ($24). Hat ISABEL MARANT at TNT. Top DOLCE & GABBANA at HOLT RENFREW. Leather jacket ACNE STUDIOS at HOLT RENFREW. Bracelet HERMÈS. Photography SyLVAIN BLAIS. Assistant Photographer CÉSAR OCHOA. Fashion Editor CARy TAUBEN. Models NOEL at MONTAGE. GABRIEL at DULCEDO. MIyANDA at DULCEDO. Makeup SABRINA RINALDI at FOLIO. Hair LOUIS HECHTER for L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL at FOLIO and ORBITE. Hair Assistants MICHELE FORTIER and GABRIELLE PELLERIN at ORBITE. Nails TAMARA DI LULLO at FOLIO. Retoucher MARIE-PIER TOUTANT. Location MME. LEE.
Beauty
CHEAT SHEET:
get the perfect modern Hollywood
HAIR
We sat down with L.A. based Kevin Hughes, Moroccanoil Global Spokesperson/Creative Design Team, to finally crack the code to that perfect modern Hollywood wave. “Modern Hollywood hair is all about having a soft wave. It almost looks as if the hair is blown out and has all this bounce and volume to it,” says Kevin. Follow this step-by-step guide, and we promise you’ll be red carpet ready in no time (even if your carpet is Ikea and your award stage is a Cheetos stained couch).
Extra VolumE Shampoo & ConditionEr
By Bianca Taylor
Step 1: Wash Smart
STEP 2: PREP
“The first step is in the shower. If you have finer hair, I recommend starting off with an extra volume shampoo like Moroccanoil Extra Volume Shampoo ($27 for 250 mL). It’ll get volume into the hair without weighing it down. Thick and coarse hair gals should use a hydrating shampoo like Moroccanoil Smoothing Shampoo ($29 for 250 mL) to smooth out the cuticle for a perfect canvas.”
“Towel dry your hair well, and then add your favourite styling product. I always recommend the Moroccanoil Treatment ($47 for 100 mL). Apply it from the mid lengths to the ends of the hair, and then you can use a multitude of things; it really depends on your hair type. If you have fine hair, you’re going to want to use something like Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse ($30 for 250 mL) to add volume to the hair. If you have thick or coarse hair, you’re going to want to use Moroccanoil Styling Cream ($38 for 300 mL) to smooth out the wave.”
trEatmEnt
jessica aLba amy aDams
Step 3: Blow it out “Start your blow dry with a large round brush (if you have short hair, you should use a 35-millimetre brush. If you have long hair, you should use a 55-millimetre one). When you start to blow dry, you want to immediately lift the hair away form the scalp. If you're not great with a brush, turn your head upside down and blow dry it that way so the hair is automatically away from the scalp. Gravity will bring it down; so, don't worry about it being too big. For this type of look, you want to make sure you’re bending the ends. You don't want to leave them straight. That brings a casual sort of a feel to it. The key to modern Hollywood hair is that it’s smooth, and there’s a bounce at the end. Make sure it’s one hundred percent dry before moving on to the next step.”
Step 4: Curl
Luminous Hairspray Duo
“Get out your curling iron. If you have shorter hair, you might use a one-inch iron. If you have longer hair, you might use a one and a quarter inch. Work in sections starting at the top so it has more time to set. The sections are going to be the same size as your curling iron. So, if you're using a one-inch iron, you're going to take one-inch sections. Make sure you spray every strand with Moroccanoil Hairspray ($26 for 330 mL) before you curl it. That’s the key. So many people wonder why their curls don't last, and that’s really the key. Spray every strand and then take your curling iron.
do next—and this is really important—is take a duckbill clip or a pin curl clip, and hold that curl and pin it in place. When you do that it cools down in that shape, and it sets it. It’s very important. You’ll have a longer lasting, stronger curl, and more volume.”
Step 5: Brusha brusha brusha “After the hair is completely cooled down, you're going to remove all the pins in sections. Use a boar bristle brush to brush that out into a wave. You’re going to actually work in sections, and you're going to brush through the curl downwards. Follow the brush with your hand, and you're going to smooth and bring every section together. That’s what brings it from a curl into a wave.”
Step 6: part “For the top area: give a little tease at the very upper corner where your part is. You can part your hair wherever you'd like. I always recommend a very deep side part for an old Hollywood look—it’s a bit more dramatic. You can use a little bit of hair spray to keep it in place or away from your face. Tuck the light side behind your ear. With a modern Hollywood set, it is important that there’s always a light side and a heavy side. Push the light side back, and tuck it behind the ear. It gives a little more drama to the front.”
Place the iron closer to the head. You're slowly going to feed away from the root until you get the entire strand in. The reason that we do that is because you're setting the root area first. The ends curl really easily, and you don't want to have them in the iron for a very long time. You want the root area in there. The ends are going to be the last thing that’s fed through the iron. Make sure you hold your hand on the hair; that’s going to tell you when it’s done. If you can still hold your hand there and you don't feel the hot heat, it hasn't heated fully through all the hair. Once you feel the heat throughout, you can release it. You're going to open the clip of the iron and slowly pull it out, and you're going to support that curl. What you're going to HyDrating styLing cream
BEAUTY
Hair SalonS
ACROSS CANADA Call me cliché, but beauty salons are my happy place (movie makeover scenes are my guilty pleasure). There’s nothing more exciting than walking into a salon to get new highlights or a trendy haircut in hopes of magically transforming into Miranda Kerr. Unfortunately, it hasn’t happened yet, but the dream isn’t dead. Here are some of the hottest places to transform your look. By Bianca Taylor
Medulla & Co.
809 Queen Street West Toronto, Ontario
Medulla & Co. is one of those salons where you actually don’t mind spending hours sitting on a chair while you transform from caterpillar to butterfly. This boutique/salon hybrid on Queen West houses a variety of fun beauty, fashion, and lifestyle products to keep you busy. Owner Luis Pacheco is known for his artful mastery of colour— and the pack of fashion bloggers and editors flocking to his salon is proof.
Glam Salon Boutique
364 Saint Paul Street West Salon orBite
221 Laurier Avenue West Montreal, Quebec
What’s better than a good blowout? Nothing (except cheese fondue). Celebrity hairstylist Louis Hechter is the master of glam. For the ultimate luxe experience, head over to Salon Orbite, and you’ll leave with star worthy hair. A team of friendly and experienced professionals will warmly welcome you into this minimalist chic salon. They won’t judge when you can’t stop flipping your hair after Louis crafts his pièce de résistance.
Montreal, Quebec When Olivier Miotto and Veronique Noraz team up to open a salon, you know it’s bound for success. While Olivier is a master at cutting hair (he seriously gets it right every single time and has the awards to prove it), Veronique is a hair extensions specialist with the meticulousness of a scientist. Now, that’s what we call a balancing act.
Pony Salon
73 Cordova Street East
Vancouver, British Colombia Quietly tucked away in the heart of Gastown, this super cute and laid back salon does not try to distract you with any bells and whistles. Highly trained stylists keep things simple as they focus on what they excel at: haircuts, colours, and styling services. You won’t be leaving here with a modern art sculpture propped onto your head.
28 days, 672 hours, 40320 minutes, 2419200 seconds‌ TIME MASTER INTENSIVE PROGRAM, Cure Cellulaire Essentielle: to reverse the course of time. This intensive treatment combines technology, efficacy and precision and takes inspiration from the refinement of leading-edge Swiss watchmaking. In 28 days, this polyactive program regulates the mechanics of skin cells to reveal a skin vibrating with youth and freshness.
www.valmontamerica.com
beauty
2
Smooth Skin
Your skin is your body’s largest organ, and it deserves some extra TLC after the gruelling summer months. Take a few minutes every day to get your skin back on track. You will be thankful.
Exfoliate
Exfoliating is the key to great skin. You need to exfoliate at least once a week to get rid of the flaky, dead skin cells that accumulate on the top layer of your skin. Use a grainy scrub and good quality exfoliator to scrub your way to better breathing skin.
By Frederika Raymond
Hammam
Hammams have been an important part of Moroccan culture (and hygiene!) for ages. The deep cleaning process begins after spending at least one hour in a steam room. Apply a special pore-clearing Moroccan dark soap onto skin and wait a few minutes before washing with a rough mitten that will remove dead skin. Expect extremely soft and glowing skin afterwards.
Try this spa in Toronto for a truly magical experience!
THE BODY SHOP CaCtus sCruB Mitt ($7).
Made of natural sisal, this mitt is perfect for scrubbing skin. it will rejuvenate the skin, banish dullness, and even out skin complexion.
LA PRAIRIE Cellular Mineral FaCe exFoliator ($150).
This luxurious mineral enriched gel will polish your skin by removing dead cells.
TATCHA Polished ClassiC riCe enzyMe Powder ($81).
3
This water-activated enzyme powder will polish and instantly soften skin.
Hydrate
1
Miraj HaMMaM Spa By CauDalie pariS, Shangri-la Hotel, 188 university avenue, Toronto, Ontario. www.mirajcaudaliespa.com
Dry Brushing
Brushing the skin stimulates the lymphatic system (responsible for eliminating cellular waste and toxins), increases circulation, and reduces the appearance of cellulite. Ideally done once a day before showering, gently brush the entire body in the direction of the heart.
It is important to hydrate your body and face daily with a great lotion or natural oil. Hydrate your insides by drinking plenty of water.
CHANEL hydra Beauty MiCro séruM ($125).
Chanel’s water-light serum will keep your skin hydrated and glowing for hours.
LISE WATIER hydrasMart 3d hydration Gel-CreMe ($42). achieve silky smooth skin with this deeply hydrating face cream.
CLARINS hydraQuenCh CreaM-Gel ($50). THE BODY SHOP CaCtus Body Brush ($9).
Not only is this natural bristle brush sustainably produced, it scrubs away unwanted dead skin cells, leaving your skin with a silky smooth finish.
This hydrating face cream soothes and refreshes skin, giving you a smooth matte complexion.
Check out our website for the latest beauty news and product reviews.
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fitness
Pack a By Coach Prana
Punch
Summer is over, and Dress to Kill would like to congratulate you for having radiated this past season. Having followed coach Prana’s fitness and nutrition tips, you are likely at the top of your game; we’ve even heard that some of you have been dubbed “the body.” Don’t rest on your laurels just yet; let’s keep up the momentum.
Street Workout
is a callisthenic sport, which means it uses the body’s weight for resistance. Usually practiced in the outdoors, street workouts help develop strength, flexibility, and balance. Structures dedicated to the sport can be found in parks, beaches, and even forests. The sport has gained popularity in recent years, and competitions are also beginning to see the light of day. This activity works the entire body, does not require any personal equipment, and is sure to increase confidence levels. It’ll augment your dexterity and coordination, tone and strengthen the body, and improve your movement and body awareness. i v
Fit tiPS
Let’s focus on our lower legs this season! Place the front half of your feet on a step so that your heel extends off the end of the step. Rise up on the balls of the feet, like a ballerina. Stay in this position for three seconds before returning to position one. Repeat for a minimum of three sets of ten (This exercise also strengthens your core and improves your balance.) Walk down the stairs whenever you can. You’ve no excuse; it’s a lot less strenuous than climbing them! Stand on one leg, with the foot flat on the floor. Hop up and down. These are very small jumps, so this should be done very quickly. Repeat fifty times for each leg.
nutrition tiPS Instagram: La_Prana
Prepare your magic powders, girls!
Add herbs and spices to your dishes to boost their nutritional benefits without the added calories. Doing so is a good way of making a meal tastier and your body healthier. Many herbs and spices have ten times more antioxidants than fruits and vegetables. In addition to these antioxidants (anti-aging, anti-cancer, diabetes reduction, etc.), herbs and spices act as natural fat burners (by boosting the metabolism), antiinflammatories, and even antibacterial agents.
OOna by Ja SanTERI
iNspiraTioN Oona Kivelä
Oona Kivelä started doing gymnastics at the age of 9 and started pole dancing in 2008. She trains everyday. Instagram : oonakofficial, 30.8k followers
Nickname: OonaK Height: 164 cm Weight: 65 kg
Shoe Size: 6.5
Sports Practiced (before and presently): pole dancing, parkour, gymnastics, street workout, ballet, vogue Titles: Street Workout World Champion 2014 and runner-up in 2015, World Pole Sports Champion 2014
Top TeN Herbs and spices • Basil • Cinnamon • Cayenne • Pepper
• Cloves • Cumin • Turmeric • Rosemary
• Ginger • Oregano • Thyme
health
locavorism
is here to stay
—and why shouldn’t it?
At a time when trends catch on like wild fire, farm-to-table dining has become about something other than its humble, local roots. Like hippiedom in the 70s and celebrity feminism today, the integrity of the local food movement has been obfuscated—more appropriately used as a marketing tool or as a smoke screen for bad food. By Valérie Silva
E
ven fast food giant McDonald’s has ostensibly adopted the farm-to-table mentality, releasing a series of ads that cast the “real” farmers from which they acquire their produce. Is proving that food originates in a(ny) farm really the point? Doesn’t nearly all food originate in a farm? The pioneers of the movement focus, instead, on shortening the distance travelled from farm to table. The Canadian Food Inspection Agency recognizes “locally grown” food as that which originates within 50 kilometres from where it is sold and served. Benefits of local food sourcing practices include: supporting small local farms, ensuring the safety of food supply, avoiding genetically modified foods, encouraging the diversity of regional ecologies, and decreasing the carbon footprint caused by factory farms and international food distribution. And so, even if the frozen fries that McDonald’s employees throw into vats of oil were once potatoes picked in farms, they do not necessarily adhere to the strict standards delineated by farm-to-table advocates. Unfortunately, eating locally produced, sustainable, and non-genetically modified food is no longer the goal—instead bragging rights and increased profits are. With that said, there is no reason to eschew the gastronimical trend just yet. Like denim overalls and braided pigtails, some people really do pull it off! The key to successful farm-totable cuisine is balance; it is not only the chefs (or, ahem, fast food chains) that dictate the menu but also the land on which they stand. Rather than import from an international farm or
Fleur de sel
use genetically engineered produce, chefs adapt to a regional ecology. The result: a regional cuisine. As chef and author Dan Barber puts it, “We decide what we want, and then we demand that the land produce it. When in fact it should really work the other way around.” The goal is to let the land guide our palate. And, why isn’t that still a noble pursuit? Should we be over farm-to-table just because its message has been diluted? Or, should we stand proud behind the title and let the land set the standard? Of course, you know my position. What better way to celebrate the harvesting season than to pay tribute to culinary establishments that do the same? These restaurants toot the farm-to-table moniker for good reason. Check out the following spots that are still doing local the right way.
Fleur De Sel
lunenburg, nova scotia Lunenburg’s maritime history—it was a major centre for offshore banks fishery and a shipbuilding mecca in the 19th century—lives on in each dish served at Fleur De Sel. Chef Martin Ruiz Salvador fuses classic French techniques with locally sourced produce; think whipped Nova Scotia feta, sustainably caught albacore tuna, and scallops from Adams & Knickle, a century-old waterfront establishment. Housed in a traditional 19th century Lunenburg construction, Fleur De Sel is the ideal spot to revel in a time past. Be sure to sample from Martin’s repertoire of homemade goods, which includes house-cured charcuterie, smoked fish, and artisanal breads. Bon appétit! 53 Montague Street, Lunenburg, Nova Scotia.
The Wolf in the Fog
Tofino, BriTish ColumBia The Wolf in the Fog, enRoute’s best new restaurant in Canada for 2014, showcases local ingredients with an emphasis on sustainable sea fare. Be prepared to feast on Pacific oysters, Humboldt squid, and fresh salmon. Chef Nick Nutting explains, “We get all our fish from a dock that’s one block away from the restaurant. You can literally see the boats coming in.” Even the mushrooms that appear in many of the dishes are foraged in nearby forests on Vancouver Island. How’s that for fresh? les 400 coups
150 Fourth Street, Tofino, British Columbia.
the wolf in the fog
Les 400 coups monTreal, QueBeC
Arctic char from Gaspésie, Québec pecans, Montmorency cherries, and duck marget from La Canardière Farm are just some of the local ingredients featured on the menu at Les 400 coups. Chef Guillaume Cantin is not only committed to local ingredients but also to regional history, which he meticulously weaves into his carefully conceptualized dishes. The young chef explains, “I work with a culinary historian to find out about old Quebec recipes and forgotten ingredients that deserve to be known once again.” And, there is no better place to discover them than at this Old Montreal mainstay. 400 Notre-Dame East, Montreal, Quebec.
RGE RD
Edmonton, Alberta RGE RD uses only the best that Alberta’s land and prairie “range roads” have to offer—and, that is a lot! If you want the ultimate (read: authentic) farm-to-table experience, attend one of RGE’s weekly dinners held at Edmonton area farms. The dinner series celebrates local ingredients by eating them exactly where they are grown. Chef Blair Lebsack practices whole animal (a.k.a. nose-to-tail) cooking, thereby reducing food waste. Case and point: always on offer at RGE RD are the “Questionable Bits” of animals served that day. Sustainability aside, Lebsack offers up some of the most delicious and creative eats around. 10643 123rd Street Northwest, Edmonton, Alberta.
rge rd
fASHION FW 2015
RODARTE favourite BooK
SAINT LAURENT
Style file by
nadia
anna eWers image style.com
pizzimenti This season, I was drawn to the glam grunge looks seen on runways like Saint Laurent, Rodarte, and Alexander Wang. With the seventies carrying through into fall, flare denim,
printed blouses, updated leather pieces, and studded embellishments are great ways to moto shearling vest coach
channel that good girl gone rock star vibe. What’s more, each of these pieces is sure to be a wardrobe staple for years to come.
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On the left: Blazer SAINT LAURENT at MICHEL BRISSON. Shirt SAINT LAURENT at MICHEL BRISSON. Tie SAINT LAURENT at MICHEL BRISSON. Jeans LEVI’S. Belt DRIES VAN NOTEN at MICHEL BRISSON. On her: Top TOPSHOP at HUDSON’S BAY. Necklace DRIES VAN NOTEN. Skirt LAMARQUE. Tights MONDOR. Bag BROWNS COUTURE. On the right: Shirt DRIES VAN NOTEN at MICHEL BRISSON. Necklace HARAKIRI. Jeans ACNE STUDIOS. Belt DRIES VAN NOTEN at MICHEL BRISSON.
Forever
charlotte There is something about Charlotte Cardin’s voice that makes you feel a range of emotions that you didn’t even know you had. She is only 21 years old, but she sings with the melancholy of a woman way beyond her years. After appearing on the Canadian version of the TV show The Voice, she’s been working on original material while pursuing a career as a model. For this Dress to Kill shoot, she jumped into the skin of an artist from the 70s, adding her own sensibility to the story. By Marie-Ève Venne
Photography Sylvain Blais Fashion Editor Yso You just released your first single “Big Boy” and it’s already at the top of the polls in Quebec. How does it feel to receive such positive feedback from the public? It is incredible,
because we were not ready for that kind of reaction at all! We released it almost by impulse, after learning that I was about to open for Mika at the Montreal Jazz Fest. So, we decided to release it to give people something to listen to, especially for the public who discovered me at the festival. We didn’t have time to invest in a lot of promo. We were pleasantly surprised by the public reaction!
Is “Big Boy” a current representation of your life, and how do you feel about it going public? [Searching for words]
I don’t know how to explain it. Of course, I wrote that song from a personal situation, but I feel like a lot of girls can find themselves in it, too. I sometimes use personal experiences to write my songs, but I amplify the story. At the end, it is not even my story anymore.
Do you always use personal experiences to create your songs or is there something else that inspires you? Most of
the time, I don’t use experiences. I use my feelings to start a song. From a romantic relationship to a friendship, it’s all about how the person makes me feel. That explains why most of the time my songs are more like little stories. It might be a situation that didn’t happen to me, but if I felt touched by it, I will want to write about it. At the end, it’s a part of me without being too personal.
This page: Glasses TOM FORD. Earrings REBECCA MINKOFF. Top ETRO. Necklace GLORIA BASS DESIGN. Skirt TOPSHOP at HUDSON’S BAY. Belt DIESEL. Bag CHLOÉ. Tights MONDOR. Shoes STUART WEITZMAN. Opposite page: Glasses TOM FORD. Earrings REBECCA MONKOFF. Necklace GLORIA BASS DESIGN. Top EQUIPEMENT at HUDSON’S BAY. Vest LA MARQUE. Pants LAMARQUE. Shoes BROWNS COUTURE.
When I’m on stage, It’s lIke another versIon of me Is helpIng my everyday self deal WIth darker emotIons that I don’t thInk I Would be able to deal WIth In real lIfe. You mentioned earlier that you opened for Mika during the last Montreal Jazz Festival. How was that experience? Unreal! And, also a little bit crazy
since we learned about it three weeks before the show. I didn’t even have a band at that point. I had some songs that were ready, but that was pretty much it! I asked the guys I was usually playing with to be my band, and we started creating a show from A to Z. But, it ended up being a wonderful experience, and we had a lot of fun. Since then, I played other shows with them and everything is going amazingly well. I feel lucky to have found people with whom I connect. Especially since I didn’t have any before opening for Mika!
Does having your first show as a band on a main stage for an international singer make every other show after that super easy? Exactly! We had to
practice so many times in such a short lapse of time for our first show. Now, everything seems way more relaxed [short laugh].
You are also a professional model. Is it easy to mix your two careers since they both belong to the artistic world? It’s pretty easy, because I’ve been
doing both of them for a long time. I learned quickly how to manage it, and, these days, it is something that I can easily mix together. There are always surprises, and it’s not always easy to deal with the stress, but it always ends up being fun. On the left: Shirt DRIES VAN NOTEN at MICHEL BRISSON. Necklace HARAKIRI. Jeans ACNE STUDIOS. Belt DRIES VAN NOTEN at MICHEL BRISSON. On her: Glasses BALENCIAGA at HOLT RENFREW. Top REBECCA TAYLOR. Jeans FREE PEOPLE at HUDSON’S BAY. Belt RALPH LAUREN at HUDSON’S BAY. Bag BROWNS COUTURE. Shoes BROWNS COUTURE. On the right: Shirt SAINT LAURENT at MICHEL BRISSON. Tie SAINT LAURENT at MICHEL BRISSON. Jeans LEVI’S. Belt DRIES VAN NOTEN at MICHEL BRISSON. Shoes MODEL’S OWN.
When you create songs, you have complete control over every step of the process. When you are modelling, you have to follow the creative vision of someone else. Is that something that can be difficult for you? No, I actually like it. I see being a
model like playing a character, and it adds some novelty to my life. When I write music, it’s 200% me. So, it can be refreshing to be someone else for a moment.
Coat BCBGMAXAZRIA. Top DENIM & SUPPLY at HUDSON’S BAY. Skirt DOLCE & GABBANA at HOLT RENFREW. Belt RALPH LAUREN at HUDSON’S BAY.Tights MONDOR. Bag BROWNS COUTURE. Shoes BROWNS COUTURE.
For this shoot, we are travelling in time. Is there a specific period of time that you would love to live in?
I was born in the 90s, but I was too young to totally experience it. So, I think it’s the period of time that is the most fascinating to me, especially regarding style. I also like the 1920s, for the freedom of thought of the time and the way they enjoyed every part of life. The dance, the music, it was madness!
Is fashion important to you? I like it, but I don’t live for it [laughing]. Like every girl, I love a good shopping session and beautiful pieces created by designers. It also helps with my career as a model. What are your favourite fashion designers? From here, I like the work of UNTTLD. Their creations are very edgy, and they have dressed me many times for red carpet events. At the international level, I'm a fan of Isabel Marant and Acne Studios. Their fits are amazing!
There is a strong melancholic tone to your voice, as though you were way older than your age. Is that something that has always been there? I don't know
where it comes from. My speaking voice is so different from my singing voice. I started singing at a very young age, and I took classes from 7 to 17 years old. It might have influenced my musical style, but I don't know about my voice. Of course, I listen to jazz and blues, but not only that. It's a good question. When I'm on stage, it's like another version of me is helping my everyday self deal with darker emotions that I don't think I would be able to deal with in real life.
What are your upcoming projects? I am working on my first album. I am in the studio most of the time. We will release other songs before the launch of the album, and we are hoping to go on tour. For more information: www.dresstokillmagazine.com
Glasses TOM FORD. Earrings REBECCA MINKOFF. Coat TOPSHOP at HUDSON’S BAY. Top TOPSHOP at HUDSON’S BAY. Necklace GLORIA BASS DESIGN. Pants LAMARQUE. Shoes BROWNS COUTURE. Photography SYLvAIN BLAIS. Assistant Photographer DEENA ROTH. Fashion Editor YSO. Model CHARLOTTE CARDIN at FOLIO, MATHIEU SéNéCHAL & BENjAMIN COUCY. Makeup & Hair MAïNA MILITzA at FOLIO using CHANEL and TRESEMMé.
it girl
AzAmit
Azamit is a beautiful and unique fashion stylist, art director, and business lady, who loves to create and help others do the same. She has the passion of someone who is doing his or her career for the right reasons. Once you begin talking to her, you can only admire the respect she has for Montreal designers and every artistic soul she has ever worked with. Her flare for everything trendy makes her one of the best in the profession. By Marie-Ève Venne
How did you jump into the fashion world? I worked very hard to be where I am today. When I was younger, my mom and my grandmother were both very stylish. They would dress me up in the most colourful and stylish ways possible. Clothes made from beautiful fabrics always surrounded me. So, for me, it was natural to want to work in fashion. At first, I wanted to be a designer. I went to LaSalle College and left to study at the Duperré School of Applied Arts in Paris. I ended up at Nina Ricci for a two-month internship and that is when I realised what being a fashion designer really meant. I was in love with the creative energy required for the work, but I wasn’t sure about having to be captive of a brand, of a signature style. I came back to Montreal and took a gap year to figure out what I really wanted. After a moment, I started working as a model to at least be working in fashion. For one of my first professional shoots, I saw this guy coming on set with racks full of clothes. I didn’t know at the time that a stylist was a real job. That is when I realised what I really wanted to do. I went to my modelling agency, and I told them I wanted to be a stylist. That is when everything started. When did you become a stylist? At the time, everyone was left to his or her own devices, and I had to create my own connections. During six months, I called Elle Quebec almost every week, asking to assist on a shoot. In the end, I asked if I could simply watch what was going on during a shoot. They said yes, and I had a chance to show them my book. Two hours after I left, they called me back to offer me a job as assistant stylist. It was the best education ever, and it’s where I learned everything that I needed to know. When did you realise that you had made it in the profession? When you start working somewhere, you have hopes and dreams, and after a moment you have to catch up with reality. At first, I never asked myself too many questions, since I had to work as hard as I could to be able to at least pay my bills. It was very rough, and I didn’t know what was real and what was just part of the
photo Fred tremblay
Is that why you started souk @ sat (a bazaar that takes place in a loft-style space, each year around Christmas, where you can find contemporary creations by Montreal designers)? We started souk photo Shayne laverdière
dream. I started doing more and more editorial shoots on my own. I was working all the time, barely taking time to catch a breath. After seven years of hard work, I realized that I didn’t have to introduce myself anymore and that people weren’t questioning my work. My work had become enough.
What do you think about the current state of the fashion industry in Canada? I think that we are so used to
doing the same things that we stop thinking of ways to change, ways to evolve. But with the expansion of the Internet comes many novelties, and the manufacturers started realising that they have to move in the same direction. But, I think they are still afraid of the change. It takes money, but also a lot of time to adapt. If you take brands like Zara and Cos, they are doing fast fashion, so their product is different almost every week. The industry is moving crazy fast. We cannot repeat the same things we were doing. The buyer wants something new and exciting. And, I think that some retailers have stopped providing that excitement. Retail is dying, so we need passion more than we need money.
from nothing but passion and a lot of love for the designers and the people who wanted to buy local. It is really popular, but I still try to find ways of evolving. My team and I have the energy to always deliver something new and exciting. We are constantly seeking new ideas. That is how you keep a project from dying. You cannot just sit on your success.
What attracts you to the creative universe of local designers? I
don’t like to drop names, because I think each designer is producing something so unique! But, I’m a big fan of what UNTTLD is doing. I like every little detail of their creations. It is refreshing and different. Tavan & Mitto creations are also pretty amazing. They understand how to work the fabric to flatter the female body in a beautiful way. I also think that what Denis Gagnon, Pedram Karimi, Travis Taddeo, and Rad Hourani are doing is beautiful in its own way. These designers are very talented!
I get the impression that you are working on a multitude of things at the same time? Any new projects? I’m trying to put together
all the knowledge that I have accumulated over the past 15 years in the business into starting a new project for Montreal artists. I want the project to be able to showcase everything that is inspiring and exciting here. I’ve been working on this for more than a year, and I still have time. To be clear, I am not leaving fashion, but I have other interests in mind.
Instagram : @azapopuphome
fashion
still super:
hervé léger turns
Who can forget the sight of Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, and Naomi Campbell on the Hervé Léger catwalk in the 90s? It is at this time that the designer’s iconic bandage dress became a legend. Thirty years later and it is still a favourite amongst celebrities and the top models of today. By Valérie Silva
H
ervé Peugnet (now Hervé L. Leroux) founded the brand in 1985, naming it Hervé Léger, after long-time friend and fashion muse Karl Lagerfeld reasoned that “Peugnet” was far too difficult to pronounce for the targeted American clientele. The brand was then acquired by BCBGMAXAZRIAGROUP in 1998; this was the first time in fashion history that a French couturier was absorbed by an American brand. Chief Creative Officer Lubov Azria led the design team for the subsequent years, during which she perfected the signature bandage design. The updated version was launched in 2008 at New York Fashion Week. Lubov has since managed to strike the perfect balance between innovation and timelessness; she has introduced daywear and separates to the brand, all while preserving the integrity of Hervé Peugnet’s seminal vision. The signature bandage dress is still at the centre of Hervé Léger, and it continues to sculpt and enhance the female body into a sensuous hourglass
form. An advocate for women’s empowerment, Azria has dedicated her life and work to making women look and feel their best—her commitment to the curve-hugging design is evidence of her appreciation of the feminine form. Despite the prominence of stick figure bodies and waif culture in the 2000s, the brand has not wavered on its commitment to real, everyday women. In 2011, Léger famously said, “If I had to go back to catwalk presentations I would be in a panic because today people are so out of touch with the reality of everyday life. Already the models I find are too skinny, too sad. And I knew the age of the super top models,
It is with a similar dedication to the supermodel era that Lubov brings back a capsule collection of iconic collectible pieces to commemorate the brand’s 30th anniversary. These collectibles include the Cindy (originally worn by Cindy Crawford in 1996), the Christensen (originally worn by Helena Christensen in 1992), and the Nadège (originally worn by Nadège du Bospertus in 1992). The pieces, eponymously named after the supermodels who first donned them, were created using the original jacquard stripe bandage technique seen on the runway in the early 90s. The material—now a staple in sexy “body-con” fashion—had, until that point, been associated with covert shapewear (and related feelings of embarrassment and insecurity). Harking back to 90s supermodel style, Lubov Azria’s collection features plunging necklines, punchy reds and edgy blacks, and form-fitting micro minis that accentuate the female form. Indeed, many may argue that the reign of the supermodel is a thing of the past, but with Azria’s capsule collection we are, at the very least, free to revel in the glory days. After all, what better way to celebrate an anniversary than with the signature looks that defined an era? BCBGMAXAZRIA available at: Yorkdale Mall 3401 Dufferin Street, Toronto, Ontario
“
I knew the age of the super top models, lInda evangelIsta and CIndy Crawford, who were always lIvely and smIlIng.
“
Linda Evangelista and Cindy Crawford, who were always lively and smiling.”
CULTURE
Gloss
get inspiredBy Bianca Taylor
Need some serious fashion inspiration for fall? We’ve got the perfect book for you. GLOSS by Roger Padilha and Mauricio Padilha is the first complete monograph of fashion photographer Chris von Wangenheim. GLOSS tells the story of von Chris von Wangenheim’s iconic fashion images—produced between 1968 and 1981—stood up against the norms of the time. In the 70s, he was closely associated with the glamorous world of Studio 54—where hedonism and self-indulgence prevailed. During a time when fashion was not nearly as risqué as it is today, von Wangenheim explored a world of sex, violence, and extreme opulence by infiltrating the world of fashion’s elite. His dark, enigmatic work has appeared in some of the most influential magazines— including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Interview. He has produced some of the most iconic advertising campaigns of his time—including the Dior jewelry ad featuring a model whose wrist is locked up in a dog’s mouth.
Wangenheim’s life by intertwining interviews with models, editors, art directors, and friends with over 200 provocative images from von Wangenheim’s career, including unpublished images from famous shoots of supermodels, such as Christie Brinkley, Lisa Taylor, and Gia Carangi. The Padilha brothers go on to trace the photographer’s influence in contemporary fashion. From Tom Ford’s work at Gucci to Steven Klein’s inspiration, von Wangenheim’s influence is still deeply felt and celebrated by the fashion industry today.
GLOSS by Roger Padilha and Mauricio Padilha, Rizzoli New York ($85).
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heart
glass of
Iconic canadian supermodel Liisa Winkler
is hotter than ever.
Photography Richard Bernardin Fashion Editor Azamit
liisa Winkler is an industry veteran. she began modelling in the late 90s and had a career breakthrough When she earned a seal of approval from mr. tom ford during the gucci era. she’s had a WhirlWind career, but her future looks just as bright. You were discovered at the age of fifteen. What was it like to grow up with the pressures of the fashion industry? My career didn’t really take off until I was closer to twenty, so I have rather unglamorous, but super fun memories, of living in Paris youth hostels, New York model apartments, and sharing bunk beds with fleeting 16 year old models who sometimes turned into successful supermodels! I was on the verge of going back to school when Tom Ford booked me for Gucci. I truly owe him my career! After that, there was a lot of pressure to attend parties and socialize (they would sometimes fly me in first class to attend them!). Things changed almost overnight. I started working every day and travelling a ton. Keeping close to family and friends was always important to me, but this might have held me back a bit.
“
“
You have to grow up pretty fast and not be afraid to be yourself. I remember my agents joking (not joking) that we needed to fake a scandal to create some “bad girl buzz!” As I grew into myself, I started to feel more comfortable with that side of the job, but I still craved a more stable family life (although my “bad girl” side was obviously out of control!). So, I took a break for a bit, got married, had kids, and felt so much more balanced.
Models have the opportunity to becoMe celebrities once More, but in a different way— in a More well-rounded, real person type of way.
Were you always interested in fashion or was it something you learned to love? I attended a professional ballet
school during high school and always hoped to join a ballet company. So, no, fashion did not interest me much growing up. It seemed to be a business for supermodels, and I was just a skinny kid from Belleville! Having worked with so many talented people, I grew to understand and appreciate how artistic and inspiring fashion really is. I love how creative it feels to be a part of that, and I am so grateful to have such a fun and interesting job that gives me new experiences every day.
What was it like working in the late 90s versus right now? Has the industry changed for the better or for the worse?
Things are very different now; the 90s were full of supermodels and champagne at every show. Socializing backstage and at parties was the real life “social media” of that time. Nothing was public unless you wanted it to be, unless you put it out there. Now, everything is online for everyone to see. I did a job when I was 19 years old for Gucci’s Envy Perfume with Tom Ford and Mario Testino. I was pretty much naked, and it looked very sexual, but I can barely find it online. If I had done that job today, it would be all over the place. I often worry about young models today, and I wonder what they truly feel comfortable with. But, on the flip side, I am also envious of models today, because they have more control over their careers. Today, it is about the whole person, inside and out, and clients are starting to book girls based on who they are and what passions they have. Models have the opportunity to become celebrities once more, but in a different way—in a more well-rounded, real person type of way.
You’re quite the cat-walker. You’ve appeared in countless fashion shows. Do you still remember your first major show and how it felt? My first big show was for
Gucci with Tom Ford. I had been doing “looks” with him for three to four weeks, while he designed and styled the collection with Carine [Roitfeld]. It felt like a big family, and they were all so supportive. I was pretty excited to open and close the show, but I lost my left shoe in all three looks. Mario Testino brought them all backstage to me afterwards and told me it was the most graceful “shoe losing” he had ever seen. I was simultaneously proud and embarrassed.
What have your career highlights been so far? Gucci
campaigns, working with Steven Meisel, the Italian Vogue Cover, Vogue with Grace Coddington and Arthur Elgort, working with Mario Testino and Carine Roitfeld, French Vogue, the British Vogue Cover, and the weeklong trip to South Africa! The Calvin Klein underwear campaign, the Ralph Lauren campaign, the Hugo Boss campaign, the Valentino campaign. The day I got to shoot
Dress DIANE VON FURST-ENBERG at LYLA. Belt DIESEL.Tights HUDSON’S BAY. Earrings LAUREN RALPH LAUREN at HUDSON’S BAY.
Dress LA PERLA at LYLA. Fur coat MUSI FURS. Earrings LAUREN RALPH LAUREN at HUDSON’S BAY.
gucci campaign 1999
gucci 2000
proenza scHouLer campaign 2015
the Estée Lauder campaign with Carolyn Murphy— even though they picked Carolyn in the end and my images didn’t get used, it was an honour to be considered! The Proenza Schouler campaign, the Balenciaga campaign.
You’re often referred to as the Canadian supermodel that conquered the international scene. Was this difficult to do?
I started doing well at a time when Brazilian girls were the only models that clients wanted to see. I did “looks” with Gisele at Calvin Klein before she became “GISELE.” Being from Canada didn’t really mean anything to anyone, and so I was just Liisa. I don’t think anyone really knew where I was from at the beginning; they just knew that I was NOT Brazilian!
What’s your model off duty uniform? I don’t really have one? I love vintage/used things. I have a bit of a denim and hat addiction, and I love my converse, combat boots, men’s vests, and flannel shirts! Is that a uniform? What are the biggest upsides and downsides to being a model?
Travel is an up and a down. Sometimes it can be too much travel all squished together, and you are kind of living on an airplane. Other times, it’s beautiful! I love that it takes you outside of yourself, and I love the feeling of playing around with an aspect of your personality on set.
What inspires you? Sounds “hippieish,” but the earth. I love learning about earthquakes and volcanoes (I should have been one of those “storm chaser” people). It reminds me that I am living on a planet, not just in a corner of a city. It connects us to something
Crop top and skirt HERVÉ LÉGER by MAX AZRIA. Shoes JIMMY CHOO. Earrings LAUREN RALPH LAUREN at HUDSON’S BAY.
bigger than ourselves, and it reminds us to appreciate every moment. Keeping that connection during everyday life inspires me to endlessly try to live in the moment, dream big, and treat others with unconditional kindness.
You seem to be an inspiration for many designers (e.g. Nicolas Ghesquière when he was at the helm of Balenciaga, Tom Ford at Gucci). How do you feel about being called a muse? What makes a muse “a muse”? I guess a muse is someone or something that makes a person want to create. I’m not sure that I am really a muse… I think I just happened to embody the feel of what these designers were going for at the time.
Tell us about being featured in three consecutive Gucci campaigns. It was an honour to be a part of such
a creative team for so long. They became my “fashion family,” and that is such a luxury in this business where usually every day you work with a different set of people and on an entirely different job. I really learned a lot about how a collection comes together, and I got to know all the talented people behind the scenes. Once, after a long day of trying on clothes in super high heels, the sewing ladies (and men) all got together and gave my feet a gift basket! It was sad to move on, but, in the end, it’s better to diversify a bit!
You’ve worked with some of the greatest designers and most talented people in the fashion industry (including Steven Meisel and Mario Testino). What is the energy like on set? There aren’t many people who have
as much passion for what they do as Mario Testino. He is literally always taking photos! I was on a trip with him and every day he would have at least two cameras hanging around his neck, in addition to the one he was shooting the job with. He loves women, and it comes through in his photos. I love shooting with him, because he is always pushing boundaries and wanting “more,” never missing a moment! Steven Meisel is incredible, too. I often find myself pretending I am shooting with him just to get a certain feeling/look on set. He has this way of making you relax into things and find a moment to explore in a “still” but “alive” kind of way. Does that make any sense? It is very much like acting. Every new girl should shoot with Steven!
You were working very intensely over a nine-year period and then you took a break to start a family and enjoy life. Do you miss the adrenaline rush of travelling the world for your job? I do, sometimes, but I think that I have a great balance. I truly love working and spending time with my family! I look forward to combining the two a bit more by bringing my kids with me while I work and spending a few extra days exploring. I am so grateful for both of these parts of my life!
How do you stay healthy? I eat pretty well—lots of green stuff. I use a lot of herbs and teas, too; I’m studying herbology. I also do yoga, walk the dog, run around with my kids, and spend as much time outside as I can.
Dress GUCCI. Bra and panties ERES. Shoes JIMMY CHOO. Earrings LAUREN RALPH LAUREN at HUDSON’S BAY.
This page: Bra LA PERLA at LYLA. Pants ACNE STUDIOS. Belt DIESEL. Shoes JIMMY CHOO. Headpiece OPHELIE HATS. Earrings LAUREN RALPH LAUREN at HUDSON’S BAY. Opposite page: Blazer MOSCHINO at LYLA. Skirt TAVAN&MITTO. Shoes JIMMY CHOO. Earrings LAUREN RALPH LAUREN at HUDSON’S BAY.
Top, skirt, coat and shoes MIU MIU. Cuff EDDIE BORGO at HOLT RENFREW.
What's on your iPod right noW? Milky Chance, Eddie Vedder's Ukulele Songs (I’m teaching myself to play from YouTube tutorials)
Last book you read? Aldous Huxley’s Island
Favourite cocktaiL?
Vodka/Soda/Lemon OR Tequila (helps me make good decisions)
Favourite induLgence?
Dark chocolate/mom’s sticky toffee pudding
Favourite designer?
Don’t have just one…
best boutique?
Vintage shops in Brooklyn
heeLs or FLats? Flats
Favourite beauty Product? Mèreadesso All-In-One Moisturizer
Favourite city?
Toronto because it’s home
sexiest quaLity in a man? Sense of humour, passion
of Bodysuit CHANTAL THOMASS. Trench coat RED VALENTINO. Shoes STUART WEITZMAN. Earrings LAUREN RALPH LAUREN at HUDSON’S BAY. Photography RICHARD BERNARDIN. Assistant Photographer CéSAR OCHOA. Fashion Editor AZAMIT. Assistant Stylist EMMA. Model LIISA WINkLER at MODE-ELLE. Makeup TRINIDAD RIVAS & ANA-MARIA CIMPOIA at MAkE UP FOR EVER. Hair kEVIN HUgHES at MOROCCANOIL. Hair Assistant EMMANUELLE CAMPOLIETI. Retoucher PATRICIA SINCLAIR. Location HOTEL BONAVENTURE.
o emotional Colours radiate heat. Can you handle it?
Photography Peter Tamlin Fashion Editor George Antonopoulos
of
Opposite page: Jacket VINTAGE AZZEDINE ALAÏA at SHRIMPTON COUTURE. Cuff VINTAGE. Sunglasses 3.1 PHILLIP LIM at HOLT RENFREW. This page: Top ALEXANDER WANG at HOLT RENFREW. Skirt MOSCHINO at HUDSON’S BAY. Shoes NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD at HUDSON’S BAY. Earrings ALEXIS BITTAR at HOLT RENFREW.
of
Opposite page: Dress THIERRY MUGLER. Earrings VINTAGE CLAUDE MONTANA. Shoes GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI. Fishnets tights WOLFORD. This page: Necklace SILVIA ROSSI. Sunglasses KAREN WALKER.
Jacket MOSCHINO at HUDSON’S BAY. Slip and body wrap SHAPEWEAR. Earrings VINTAGE GIVENCHY. Cuff SAINT LAURENT at HOLT RENFREW. Ring ALEXANDER MCQUEEN at HOLT RENFREW.
Opposite page: Blouse ROBERTO CAVALLI at HOLT RENFREW. Pants and belt VINTAGE. Boots HUGO BOSS. Ring ALEXANDER MCQUEEN at HOLT RENFREW. Earrings CÉLINE at HOLT RENFREW Sunglasses PRADA at HOLT RENFREW. This page: Dress THIERRY MUGLER at SHRIMPTON COUTURE. Earrings VINTAGE GIVENCHY at SHRIMPTON COUTURE. Cuff JENNIFER FISHER at HOLT RENFREW.
Opposite page: Jacket MOSCHINO at HUDSON’S BAY. Pants ISSEY MIYAKE at HOLT RENFREW. Shoes BRIAN ATWOOD at HUDSON’S BAY. Earrings CÉLINE at HOLT RENFREW. Necklace H&M. This page: Suit VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL. Necklace VIVIENNE WESTWOOD. Earrings H&M. Photography PETER TAMLIN. Fashion Editor GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS. Model SENAIT at ELMER OLSEN MODELS. Makeup GREG WENCEL for P1M.CA using CHARLOTTE TILBURY. Hair MATTHEW COLLINS for P1M. CA / BRENNEN DEMELO STUDIO using L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL. Nails NAOMI MISU for P1M.CA / TIPS NAIL BAR.
Neo Noir
They have no soul, but they have impeccable taste. Welcome to a dystopian world run by fashion fembots. Photography Richard Bernardin Fashion Editor Fritz
Dress HUGO BOSS. Fishnet stockings DIM. Belt EVA B. Necklace CRÉATURES.
Top, skirt, coat and shoes MIU MIU. Cuff EDDIE BORGO at HOLT RENFREW.
of This page: on the left: Top LANVIN at HOLT RENFREW. Leggings VINCE CAMUTO at HUDSON’S BAY. Shoes ALDO. Necklace CRÉATURES. On the right: Coat VIVIENNE WESTWOOD at LA MAISON SIMONS. Gloves LACRASIA. Shoes STUART WEITZMAN. Opposite page: on the left: Dress and shorts GUCCI. Necklace CRÉATURES. Bra LA PERLA at LYLA. Bag VALENTINO at HOLT RENFREW. On the right: Coat VIVIENNE WESTWOOD at LA MAISON SIMONS. Gloves LACRASIA. Boots STUART WEITZMAN.
This page: on the left: Dress THOMAS WYLDE. Gloves LACRASIA. On the right: Coat, dress & shoes CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION. Opposite page: Necklace CRÉATURES. Top DIESEL. Skirt THOMAS WYLDE. Belt CRÉATURES. Tights DIM.
This page: Top, skirt and necklace CRéATURES. Coat EVA B. Bra and garter belt LA PERLA at LYLA. Tights DIM. Boots X20. Opposite page: on the left : Coat, top, & skirt LOUIS VUITTON. On the right: Dress THOMAS WYLDE. Shoes ALDO. Photography RICHARD BERNARDIN. Fashion Editor FRITz at JUDY INC. Models JENNA at MONTAgE & FRED at FOLIO. Makeup &Hair NICOLAS BLANCHET at FOLIO using MAC COSMETICS, BUMBLE AND BUMBLE and NAILS INC. Makeup Assistant NISHA gULATI. Retoucher PATRICIA SINCLAIR. Location JUDY STUDIO. Props DéCOR DEUXIèMEMENT.
Top, skirt, coat and shoes MIU MIU. Cuff Coat LYSA LASH. Dress and eye mask AGENT PROVOCATEUR Jewelry VINTAGE CAROLE TANENBAUM COLLECTION.
in the still
night of the
Coco Chanel once famously stated, “before you leave the
house, look in the mirror and take one thing off,” but she never specified what. In the mIdst of the nIght, our flâneuse decides to slip out of her dress and wander the city streets.
Why invest in designer lingerie If no one wIll see It, rIght? Photography Max Abadian Fashion Editor Cary Tauben
Opposite Page: Coat LYSA LASH. Bra and panties AGENT PROVOCATEUR. Shoes MANOLO BLAHNIK at BROWNS SHOES. This page: Top and rings GUCCI. Earrings VINTAGE CAROLE TANENBAUM COLLECTION. Bracelets (on him) CARTIER.
of
Opposite page: Coat LYSA LASH. Bra, panties and garter belt AGENT PROVOCATEUR. This page: Coat LYSA LASH. Necklace OSCAR DE LA RENTA at HOLT RENFREW. Underwear FEU DE VÉNUS. Boots STUART WEITZMAN.
This page: Coat LYSA LASH. Bra, panties and garter belt AGENT PROVOCATEUR. Stay Ups WOLFORD. Shoes CHANEL. Jewelry OSCAR DE LA RENTA at HOLT RENFREW. Opposite page: Bra and panties AGENT PROVOCATEUR. Coat LYSA LASH.Necklace CAROLE TANENBAUM VINTAGE COLLECTION. Stay Ups WOLFORD. Photography MAx ABADIAN. Fashion Editor CARY TAUBEN at Folio. Model FREDERIqUE JUNEAU at Folio. Hair & makeup SABRINA RINALDI at P1M/ Foli. Hair & makeup assistant MORGAN CHINx at Folio. Nails TAMARA DI LULLO at Folio.
travel
Kristen
stewart Diary in Seoul Kristen Stewart travels to Seoul, Korea, for Chanel’s Resort 2015/16 show and shares her exclusive travel diary with Dress to Kill.
Photography Leïla Smara Clothing CHANEL & Kristen Stewart’s personal clothes Makeup CHANEL
First Day in seoul
What was your first impression of Korea? I found Korea to be immediately hospitable and warm. The weather, the people. There was an openness and spirit that was instilled in the whole experience. What were your impressions of the locals and their sense of style? When we walked around, I wanted to check out the street style and see what kids were wearing. There was a preppy-ness to their style, all buttoned up and clean, but intentional and cool. It's like, in Tokyo, every era and trend has been cycled through perennially, and everyone is really trying to always do something new... These guys are discovering stuff and being influenced in a new way by styles and tonal approaches to clothes from the 50s and 80s. It feels awesome and rebellious in this sort of fresh-faced liberated way. There was an innocence and a playfulness to it. What did you think of the CHANEL show and its venue? Any best memory? The show was like walking into a film or a board game from your childhood, mixed in with a sort of futuristic Studio 54 Seoul, Korea, vibe. If you can call that a vibe. It's thrilling to see designs and mainstays of CHANEL in such neon lights. The crops. The colors. It was sweet but fun and with a snarl. I loved it. Definitely a collection that's fun to play with. What were some of the highlights of your trip? A highlight would have to be watching Isabelle Huppert and Tilda Swinton tearing up the dance floor in a trippy Seoul drag bar after the show. I'm so envious of people who dance. I didn't. I was like “Get your ass up. Dance.” But I could only stand and watch—and marvel. Did you take any souvenirs back with you? I brought home a pair of CHANEL sneakers :) And some hot sauce. Reeeeally hot.
First Day in seoul
“
The show was like walking inTo a film or a board game from your childhood, mixed in wiTh a sorT of fuTurisTic sTudio 54 seoul, korea, vibe.
Do you have any funny anecdotes from your trip? One funny and coveted memory of mine is coming back from a run with my whole team. We ventured into this beautiful park, wearing CHANEL running shoes and crew necks like it was the most natural thing in the world. We emerged out of breath and enlightened... On the corner of the street across from the hotel was a little stand that sold crunchy insects to eat. When someone took a picture, we were reprimanded and put in our place. It was amazing.
“
PROFILE
Fall Collection
Lacoste DTK was at NYFW and had a chance to meet with Felipe Oliveira Baptista, designer of Lacoste. While waiting to meet with him at the Lacoste New York headquarters, I had a brief conversation with Francis Pierrel, CEO of Lacoste North America. I was curious to find out why a French company would present in New York instead of in Paris. He explained, “the sportswear industry is prominent in the US, and it makes more sense for us to present in New York. The exposure is greater for us, and we are featured among other sportswear brands like Ralph Lauren and DKNY.” We were probably Mr. Baptista’s last interview of the day, but we found him satisfied with his work, in great spirits, and wearing his “René did it first” sweater. By Kathia W
“There is no better way to present clothes than on the runway”
because the clothes are all the same size. But, with the stylist, we really try to personalize them. It’s great when they don’t just look like a bunch of hangers! When we make the casting, we look for models who look credible wearing our clothes.
What is the most stressful part of presenting at NYFW? Maybe the scale; this kind A day like today must be quite overwhelming. How are you feeling right now? Relieved.
It’s always a bit tricky to make sure that everything goes according to plan; it’s six months of work for a tenminute show. There’s a lot of tension until the last moment. You work on the clothes for months and then the music and the scenography; the whole thing is brought to life. There is no better way to present clothes than on the runway. It’s good to see them on people, moving.
How do you choose your models? I’m interested in diversity; I like for everyone to have a different character. Obviously, that is an incoherence,
of backstage has 500,000 people. Today, after the show, I was taking pictures with a Chinese celebrity, and someone just fainted next to me. It’s just insane. I got used to it, but, in the first season, I was so overwhelmed. Before, I was in Paris with a small team and in a smaller venue. I usually like to work in a quieter environment, but I got used to this.
What is the best part about showcasing at NYFW? Being in New York, it’s such a
great city. I always manage to take a couple days before or after the show to go to a gallery or to a museum and to do some shopping.
What is your favourite style era? It’s
hard to pick just one; I often mix them. In this collection, there was a lot of the 30s, the beginning of tennis, the flavour of the 70s, and the headbands and tracksuits from the 90s. I like fashion that passes the test of time and stays relevant. Aesthetically, there is something really beautiful and timeless about the 30s. The 70s are fun, and I think that is why they are back. And, I love the 90s because I grew up in them.
What emotion did you try to evoke with this collection? I tried to keep things fun,
artsy, chic, but not stuffy. It’s a feelgood collection.
Is it challenging to design for both men and women at the same time? It’s a very
interesting exercise. It’s not like we are designing separate collections for men and women; together, they form one story. When we choose a colour pallette or a fabric, it’s for both. Dress
codes between men and women are very diluted; the crossing has never been so open.
Do you have a muse in mind for this particular collection? It’s more about an attitude, a
look, an odd combination of people— not just one person.
What is your favourite part of designing?
I love the beginning, when everything is possible. I also like the end of it, when the music and show come and add another layer—it becomes more of a story. I also like the middle part, when you work with a textile designer or a pattern cutter to bring the idea into shape. What is great about this job is you never get bored; there is always space for creativity.
What is the best way to wear Lacoste?
I wear it nearly every day, and it’s not a corporate requirement! It’s definitely nice to mix it with other brands; I rarely wear it head-to-toe. It’s not just a sport or a leisure thing. I go to work, and I go to meetings wearing it. It is a challenge to incorporate a brand that has its root in sports and leisure into a more urban environment, but I think we are making that turn. We are looking forward to Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s next collection! We can only imagine what a creative person like him will accomplish in the years to come.
culture
Jeremy Scott The People’s Designer Directed by young filmmaker Vlad Yudin, Jeremy Scott: The People’s Designer explores the unique personality of one of the most provocative designers of our generation. Deeply rooted in pop culture, American designer Jeremy Scott dares to deconstruct codes, destabilize cultural norms, and, above all, redefine the meaning of luxury. A film crew followed the designer, over the course of 2014, as he surrounded himself with the likes of Katy Perry, Rihanna, Rita Ora and Miley Cyrus. By Stéphane Le Duc
T
he film traces the rise of Jeremy Scott—Moschino’s newest Creative Director and creator of an eponymous line—in the fashion industry. Scott first gained recognition in 2014 for his first collection for the Italian brand. He now enjoys the respect and admiration of other names in the profession, Hollywood’s biggest stars, and the public—all of whom have embraced the designer for his whimsical personality and creative genius. Naturally, director and producer Vlad Yudin was equally charmed by the designer. He explains, “I reached out to him to make this film, because I really believe that Jeremy is the voice of a new generation when it comes to fashion. He’s definitely somebody that is outspoken, and his fashion is moving the whole industry forward. When I heard where he came from and what he had to overcome in life, I became even more interested in making the film.” From the farms of his childhood in Missouri to the biggest runways in Milan, the film retraces the atypical life story of the talented designer. The documentary also chronicles the difficult periods in his personal and professional life—notably, his time in Paris, without a penny, during which he had to sleep in a metro station. Yudin elaborates, “This is not just a fashion
film. It’s a story about him, about his life, his struggles, and his creative process. I wanted to make something that would stand out. With Jeremy Scott as its subject, the film is anything but your usual fashion film.” Scott refuses to abide by convention when he creates. The documentary brings to life his first runway show with Moschino, which brought together graffiti, McDonald’s, and SpongeBob SquarePants. The show marked the start of a new era for the designer, as well as for pop culture and consumer culture more generally. Yudin followed Scott for an entire year as new projects abounded. Yudin explains, “Originally, I did not want to take that long, but so many things kept on happening. He was appointed as the Creative Director for Moschino, and it became interesting to follow the new journey in his life. He had something to achieve for this big brand in
Milan. The premiere of the collection was a big milestone for him, and we followed him all the way. But, the most important part for me was going with him to Kansas City, where he grew up, to meet his family and really know where his journey began. It was a long process, and it took over two years to complete.” According to director Vlad Yudin, the documentary will speak to anyone; “it’s a story that will inspire you. It’s the real story of an underdog who is achieving what he wanted to do in the field he wanted to pursue. You don’t have to be a fashion fan to appreciate the film.” Its message is universal; dreams do come true—no matter how humble one’s beginnings.
Jeremy Scott: The People’s Designer Coming out on September 18, 2015, at Cinéma du Parc, in Montreal, and elsewhere in Canada. www.cinemaduparc.com
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Acne Studios at Holt Renfrew Addicted Creations at Creatures Boutique,
171 Avenue du Mont Royal East, Montreal, Qc
Agent Provocateur at Holt Renfrew Aldo
aldoshoes.com
Balenciaga at Cahier d’Exercices Boss
hugoboss.com
By Malene Birger
bymalenebirger.com
Calvin Klein at La Maison Simons Calvin Klein Collection
654 Madison Avenue NY, NY
Camilla and Marc at La Maison Simons Carole Tanenbaum
caroletanenbaum.com
Cartier
cartier.com
Chanel
chanel.com
Chantal Thomass
chantalthomass.com
Diane Von Furstenberg at Lyla Diesel in stores and online diesel.com
Dime
dimemtl.com
Dolce & Gabbana at Holt Renfrew Eres
eres.fr
Eva B
2015 Saint Laurent Boulevard, Montreal, Qc
Eyland at La Maison Simons Feu de Vénus
feudevenus.com
Hervé Léger by Max Azria
bcbgmaxazriagroup.com
Hudson’s Bay
thebay.com
Isabel Marant at TNT Jimmy Choo
jimmychoo.com
LaCrasia
lacrasiagloves.com
La Perla at Lyla Lanvin at Holt Renfrew Lauren Ralph Lauren at Hudson’s Bay Les Cerises de Mars at La Maison Simons Loewe at SSENSE Louis Vuitton
louisvuitton.com
Lysa Lash
lysalash.com
Manolo Blahnik at Browns Shoes Moschino at Lyla Musi Furs
9250 Parc Avenue, Montreal. Qc
Ophelie Hats
3868 Saint Laurent Boulevard, Montreal, Qc
Oscar de la Renta at Holt Renfrew Red Valentino
redvalentino.com
Stuart Weitzman
stuartweitzman.com
Tavan&Mitto
5334 Saint Laurent Boulevard, Montreal, Qc
Thomas Wylde
thomaswylde.com
Vetements at Cahier d’Exercices Vivienne Westwood at La Maison Simons
Gucci
Wolford
Hermès
X2O
gucci.com hermes.com
wolfordshop.com x20.com
beauty
AVÈNE at drugstores and mass-market retailers ARDENCY INN at Sephora BEN NYE bennye.com BUMBLE AND BUMBLE at Sephora CALVIN KLEIN at Sephora CHRISTIAN DIOR at Christian Dior counters COVERGIRL at drugstores and mass-market retailers CARGO at Murale CHANEL at Chanel counters CLARINS at Department Stores and Drugstores ELIZABETH ARDEN at department stores EARTH TU FACE at earthtuface.com GUERLAIN at Guerlain counters JEAN PAUL GAULTIER at Hudson’s Bay La Prairie at Holt Renfrew Lise Watier at Drug Stores L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL at professional salons MAC COSMETICS at maccosmetics.com MAKE UP FOR EVER at Sephora MIU MIU PARFUM at Holt Renfrew MAYBELLINE NEW YORK at drugstores and mass-market retailers MOROCCANOIL at professional salons; moroccanoil.com NARS at Sephora NINA RICCI at Hudson’s Bay ORIBE oribe.com Odacité at The Detox Market PHYTO PARIS at drugstores PAI paiskincare.com RIMMEL LONDON at drugstores and mass-market retailers SALLY HANSEN at drugstores and mass-market retailers Schwarzkopf at professional salons Shamanuti shamanuti.com THIERRY MUGLER at Hudson’s Bay; Sephora TATCHA at tatcha.com The Body Shop thebodyshop.ca VALMONT at selected spas across Canada; valmontamerica.com
MUSTS
The Best
addresses Shopping for vintage clothing is eco-friendly
and one of the best ways to surf the retro mania wave. With the 70s still going strong this fall, you will want to find that perfect boho dress and oversized puffy jacket; be ready to look like a model off the Saint Laurent runway. Since there are many options to satisfy your retro shopping needs, we’ve created a list of upscale vintage stores to guide you during your quest. By Marie-Ève Venne
Montreal
E.R.A. Vintage Wear
(999 du Collège, Suite 44)
This is the place to go to find one-of-a-kind, beautiful vintage pieces. From the ball gown of your dreams to that perfectly oversized jacket, your options are endless. Elaine, the owner of the shop, is the sweetest, and she will help you make the perfect choice. If the item that takes your breath away needs any alterations, she will fit it for you, making sure you leave her boutique satisfied.
VANCOUVER
TuRnAbouT (3109 Granville Street) Don’t be put off by the not so chic appearance of this store. After five minutes of going through their racks, you will realize that you are in thrift junkie nirvana. This is your go-to boutique if you are crazy about designer handbags—think Chanel! You may end up leaving with way more than initially planned.
Calgary Vespucci
(8244 Elbow Drive SW) Forget everything you know about cute little vintage shops. This place may be bigger and may look like your average retail store, but it has aisles full of vintage clothing and an amazing selection! Shopping here is like hunting for treasure; they have everything from Dolce & Gabbana dresses to Burberry trench coats and Fendi shoes. Welcome to every shopaholic’s dream boutique!
TORONTO Thrill of the Find (1172 Queen Street East)
Once characterized as“fashion museum meets boudoir,” this vintage store carries designer goods and more accessible second-hand pieces. It’s a paradise of European labels, like Thierry Mugler, but also the place to find all-American classics like J. Crew. The owner used to live in France, and you can sense her European flare in her selections.
B® CHANEL S. de R.L. ©CHANEL, Inc. CHANEL ®
www.chanel.com
CHANEL Calgary (403) 232-6240
Montreal (514) 842-7318
Toronto Bloor (416) 964-1085
Toronto Flagship (416) 925-2577
Toronto Yorkdale (416) 784-0990
Vancouver (778) 329-0338