Pia fernandez

The

OCT 2014

Needle YEAR 1 / Nº 1 / suscription only

A special edition from

The best shows at

The latest

spring

make up trends

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We won’t be wearing from LFW

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 2015

Elle Fanning

Index 5

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Editor Pía Fernández Roig Staff Writter Pía Fernández Roig Creative Director Pía Fernández Roig Group Art Director Pía Fernández Roig Advertising and Marketing Managment Pía Fernández Roig

Managing Director Pía Fernández Roig.

Thanks To Photographer Diego Zuko.

This issue is an special edition from © All rights reserved to Editorial Letras e Imágenes S.A.C. Calle Alcanfores 1262, Miraflores, Lima, Perú | www.cosas.pe

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TRENDS

Spring trends from

London Fashion Week

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Fashion insiders got a taste of spring style trends at London Fashion Week.

Here's a round-up of some of the hottest lo oks, from girly ballerina skirts to sporty sandals.

FLAT IS FAB

TULLE & TIERS

RETURN OF THE DENIM JACKET

Comfort is no longer the enemy of style.

London designers have collectively rebelled against the high heel. Sensible flat shoes — be they sneakers, sandals, rubber boots or brogues — were everywhere on the London catwalks.

Not the sporty type? Feel free to unleash your inner princess.

According to Burberry, the humble jeans jacket is the cover-up of choice come next spring.

Few dresses are more romantic than those at Burberry, which came in tiers of soft tulle and often sported a ribbon tied around the waist with a big bow.

While the luxury brand's famous trench coats highlighted its grand finale, Burberry opened its show with a dark-wash, slim-cut denim jacket with a white sheepskin trim.

Bows — fun, giant ones, worn on top of the head like Minnie Mouse — were the highlight at Sibling. Elsewhere, tiered or pleated skirts, frilly hems and ruffles were everywhere on the runway.

The brand also showed many other cropped jackets in a myriad of colors and details, worn over delicate cocktail dresses.

Burberry Prorsum favored lace-up sneakers and flat, Birkenstock-like sandals in colorful leather. Christopher Raeburn models sported similar sandals with Velcro straps.

Christopher Kane, who led the trend for plastic slippers — or "pool sliders" — this summer, updated them in black and burgundy leather.

And Temperley, the queen of ladylike glamour, launched her own sneaker line.

Too Barbie? Just pick something edgier — a leather jacket, a chunky heel — to tone it down.

SPORTY CHIC

INVASION OF THE NERDS Tech fashion is not quite a trend yet but it created more buzz than ever before at London Fashion Week, which this year partnered with Google.

Several editors were seen sporting Google Glass, the Internet-connected eyewear.

Even Net-a-Porter, the luxury online fashion retailer, was selling the glasses — a designer version with the Diane von Furstenberg brand at a hefty 1,250 pounds ($2,042) each.

The rise of the sneaker is just part of fashion's ongoing obsession with sportswear — even if none of those clothes are meant for the gym.

The past year has seen neoprene and scubainspired designer clothes fly off the shelves, and dressed-down chic is still going strong for spring.

Will the notoriously picky fashion crowd embrace tech accessories? Ah, we'll have to wait and see.

Preen took inspiration from cricket, while at Topshop Unique supermodel Cara Delevingne looked sassy in a frilly-hemmed tennis dress.

The latter brand also featured cycling jerseys, shorts and bowling bags.

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BEAUTY

Make Up Trends

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The Fashion Week circus has rolled into town and our roving beauty reporter is backstage to bring you the best make-up looks from the s/s 2015 shows. These are the stand-out looks you need to see and remember for next spring.

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1. Tom Ford - “Ultimate smoky eyes.” 2. Burberry Prosurm - “Rose petal lips” 3. House of Holland - “Disco ball eyes” 4. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi “Smattering of freckles” 5. Ashish - “Glitter bomb” 6. Michael Van Der Ham - “Spot on metallic” 4

DESIGNERS

Burberry Prorsum

“Bees and birds, textures and colors”

Burberry, whose vast greenhouse tent occupied most of the lawn today, is at heart a rural brand - and its designer, Yorkshire-born Christopher Bailey, always seems happiest when he finds a bridge between his label's Britpop attitude and a sense of soft countryside romance

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HRISTOPHER BAILEY loves to riff on a topper. In previous seasons he’s reimagined the biker, the aviation jacket, the gritty parka, the trench - of course - and this season, he turned his hand to the indigo denim jacket, that forever young wardrobe staple that’s imbued with good times and optimism.

Serenaded with a live performance by James Bay, Malaika Firth opened the show (fellow Burberry girls, Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne sat front row, alongside Mario Testino) in a fitted waspwaisted jean jacket with white sheepskin erupting out from under its little peplum.

Varying versions were in never-ending supply. Some were lined in sprouting white ostrich feathers, others were fiercely cropped, another was clad in dusty pink mink, or rendered in grass green suede with a glossy plastic collar and breast pockets. You’ll be spoilt for choice. It wasn’t only those jackets that conveyed a young-at-heart appeal,

About Burberry was founded in 1856 when Thomas Burberry, a former draper’s apprentice, opened his own store in Hampshire, England. Nowadays. Burberry Group is a British luxury fashion house.

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every luxury house seemingly has a hit sneaker right now and Christopher Bailey debuted Burberry’s all-white style, the “field” sneaker with a bright striped foamy sole.

Under those jackets were tulle dresses as light as candy floss that were whipped around bodies in sensual swathes of bandaged twists or pleats.

The British countryside comes alive in spring and there were nods to that feeling, which arrive with the first signs of summer, rooted in this collection.

From those fluffy soft lambswool accents, to that particular shade of grass green, to the oversized butterfly prints and enlarged and abstracted bumble bee motifs and slogans that screamed “insects,” “flower,” and “sun” plastered over trench coats and printed dresses, and yes, all further enhanced by Bay’s The Clocks Go Forward, and the sunlight streaming through the Burberry tent in Hyde Park - as though right on cue.

A soft suede jacket in a classic denim shape. Cut in a slim fit, the jacket features high-gloss patent flap pockets, yoke and collar.

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Ruffles get reworked into this sleek and feminine burgundy outfit seen

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DESIGNERS

Christopher Kane

“Back to school”

Christopher Kane served a welcome ‘coming of age’ aesthetic, moving forwards as a brand but also revisiting some of the the tried and tested elements, that have shaped the labels past.

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in recent seasons rewired his brain towards a more commercial leaning.

With his flagship store set to open on Mount Street early next year, he’s right to think about what he’s going to fill it with. This will be the collection that he will open those shop doors with.

his is a designer who has no shortage of ideas, they all buzz around his head like a twinkling constellation before he whittles them down to a condensed seed of genius.

This season he went right back to those early ideas and to those pieces that were never shown or developed. His starting point was cord, rope and coils, which he embroidered onto dresses or threaded through hemlines and cuffs as drawstring details on terrifically modern silk skirt suits.

Although he only launched his first fully-fledged handbag line this autumn, t’s already a fast growing category (several buyers and editors are touting his plastic-clip bags around this week).

This afternoon he put the next round of leather goods on his runway. Remember that velvet collection of skater-skirted mini dresses with crystals the size of doorknobs? He downsized them and casted in brushed metal, employing them as hardware on structured totes and slip-on mannish loafers.

The collection developed into a series of silk dresses that erupted here and there with flutes of tulle, he called them “controlled explosion dresses.”

Then came those boasting tumbling panels of silk georgette, which were anchored down into place with shiny silver bars, while others had exposed boning and stemmed from Kane’s original drawings that went back to his college days.

Many of the things that Kane showed here this afternoon are born of ideas he had originally discarded, or simply ideas that he didn’t have the time or inclination back then to further explore.

One can’t help but wonder about what else he has lurking in hidden boxes, on the pages of old sketch books; at the back of that wonderful, creative mind.

The palette was explained as ‘back to school,’ inspired by the Bordeaux of the designer’s school uniform and it did feel wintery, and more than a little subdued – Christopher Kane has,

About Christopher Kane, born 26 July 1982, is a Scottish fashion designer based in London.

C.K. dedicated his collection to the professor, Louise Wilson, basing the collection on his earliest works when he was still under her tutelage.

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DESIGNERS

Simone Rocha

“Mix of reverence, tradition and laughter�

Simone Rocha’s SS15 collection does not disappoint. Starting off shrouded in black, the collection marches on into delicate tailoring in fresh peach tones, before exploding into an uncharacteristic riot of hot red floral print at the midway point.

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colors and evocatively childish details, a new sense emerged that she might -after all -- be designing for women as well as for girls.

Rocha's label is still, to a large degree, a family affair: mother Odette helps on the management side, and brother Max curated the soundtrack of Hammerhorror organ strains and stuttering drum The mix of reverence, tradition and beats. And father John (who retired from laughter was the perfect keynote for London's schedule earlier this year) Rocha's latest show. It built on her watched proudly from the front row, as trademark wistful fabrics and boyishly Simone continues to evolve a language feminine silhouettes. But it was quieter which both continues and challenges the -- in color and shape -- than her previous ethereally mundane Irish aesthetic he collections, with an emphasis on just- established decades ago. below-knee-length shapes, and a palette dominated by white, black, nude and Today felt more about continuity than challenge: the clumps of crochet and flame red. blossom-embroidered sheers that were That sombre quietness allowed Rocha's spattered through the collection were construction greater visibility than usual: intriguingly reminiscent of his aesthetic under the runway lights, the delicate in recent years -- as were the gracefully boning of tulle coats and dresses, and the drooping necklines and tulle veils. It was surreal sheaves of fine hair which fringed still identifiably, indubitably, a Simone Rocha hemlines and footwear, had a new collection: it just reiterated (quietly) that she prominence. And without the fluorescent is very much her father's daughter. aiting for the Simone Rocha to start in the nave of St. Andrews Church, a voice from the camera pit suddenly boomed out a fragment of 'Ave Maria'-and then tailed away, embarrassed, as the photographers and audience collapsed into giggles.

About Simone Rocha was born in Dublin, Ireland in 1986. In 2008 she graduated with a BA in Fashion from The National College of Art and Design in Dublin in 2010.

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Flowers, flowers and flowers.

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“New version of Maria Antoinette’s fantasy.”

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DESIGNERS

Marchesa

“Modern-gipsy Wo odstock spirit”

The American label, so adored by silver screen starlets, made a oneoff appearance on the LFW schedule, punctuating day two with stateside sophistication and sparkle.

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t’s been ten years since Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig started their label in London, and while the pair has since become synonymous with a certain type of glamour on the other side of the pond, they decided it was time to bring it home for their anniversary. “We wanted to have all our friends and family here for the occasion,” said Craig, sipping on a celebratory glass of champagne backstage after the show.

Staged at the prestigious banqueting halls on Whitehall, within spitting distance of 10 Downing Street, the show was located at the very heartland of all things British, and the Baroque fresco overhead by painter Peter Paul Rubens is one of the last vestiges of the Palace of Whitehall, Charles I of England’s former residence.

With its latest collection, Marchesa looked to celebrate a different idea of British royalty, namely the one forged in the late sixties and early seventies. And it’s hardly surprising that Georgia May Jagger, the

divinely beautiful daughter of an English rock god and a Texan beauty queen, opened the show. “She really embodies the spirit of the new collection,” said Chapman. “It’s a little bit gypsy, a little bit Woodstock and a little bit rock ’n’ roll.”

Dressed in a column of tiered white tulle and white lace that was dotted with floral embroidery, Jagger floated down the runway as a modern flower-child muse.

She was followed by another beloved British beauty, Jacquetta Wheeler, in an off-the-shoulder look with billowing sleeves. That romantic silhouette spoke to a more polished take on bohemia, and a look that modern It girls might want to wear once they’ve left the music festival field. British songstress-of-themoment Rita Ora has had her fair share of red-carpet Cinderella moments in Marchesa, and you could see her making mental notes of many looks on the front row. Clearly this whimsical approach to evening is likely to resonate with fans on both sides of the pond.

About British born Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig. The duo met at Chelsea College of Art and Design in London. Their friendship esulted in a business partnership and the establishment of Marchesa in 2004.

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DESIGNERS

Topshop Unique

“Pleasure Beach in Blackpo ol”

No beach scene is complete without a dancehall on the pier. Come night, a Topshop girl will dazzle in knife pleated silver lame skirts and ruffled, slip-of-nothing dresses decorated in a smattering of Swarovski crystals.

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pretty, models had an alluring, slightly aloof boyish quality. Some managed a cheeky smile halfway down the runway.

The story was truly about chasing that youthful utopian dream rich with allnight dancing.

wo things stood out at Topshop: one, that it is an unstoppable machine and two, that Britannia cool is alive and well. Topshop Spring Summer 15 show brought the esteemed audience to the heady seaside weekends from Brighton to Pleasure Beach in Blackpool. Current season campaign girl Cara Delevingne opened the show — which also explains her absence from Mulberry this morning — in a retro cycling jersey inspired dress. Arguably that was strongest thread running through the collection, with a mild nod to 60’s mod especially through the tennis stripe cuffs and sportswear tricolour blocking knits.

It has been many years since Topshop Unique launched, and it continues to prove season after season that it has outgrown the notion of a vanity fashion show simply to fuel the brand's more commercial High Street business. With Geoffrey Finch of Antipodium now at the helm of design alongside the existing Topshop team, the show affirmed its position at the top of the fashion chain, influencing trends as opposed to appropriating them. It is quite fascinating to witness Topshop Unique coming into its own and maintaining the attention of key opinion leaders of the highest calibre after all these years.

True to form, the youthful spirit of Topshop never gets old.

A nightgown satin ruffle dress coupled with the unapologetic salt-in-hair styling, and an after-thought strong red lip, conjured an image of the sweet morning after on the pier. Silver lamé accordion pleats and see-through Swarovski crystal dresses added titillating movement destined for the seaside clubs. Though

About We started out life way back in 1964. Since those humble beginnings in the basement of a department store we’ve grown up and now have over 300 stores in the UK alone! We ship to more than 100 countries and our eclectic British style is known all over the world.

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Sportswear tricolour blocking knits

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Clinical lilacs and mints 16

DESIGNERS

Richard Nicoll

“Two different kinds of magic”

Nicoll abandoned androgyny at his London Fashion Week show in favour of a look that was markedly more feminine than we’ve seen before. pastel palettes were broken up with shimmering iridescent panels and paisley motifs; and eveningwear came in long halter-neck satin dresses.

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therworldly. That was probably the only link that could be made between the two women who anchored Richard Nicoll's collection this morning: Laurie Anderson and Tinkerbell.

Anderson's flatly ethereal voice provided the spoken-word soundtrack; Tinkerbell suggested the metallic fairy silhouettes that dangled from bags and the dress made of ice-blue, shimmering fibre-optic strands, which opened the show.

linings and dip-dyed colour; on the other, second-skin activewear came wrapped in scaled-up handknits, and zip-slashed gingham shirts were paired with utilitydetailed separates in clinical lilacs and mints. It was the same kind of tension the designer had explored in his recent topsy-turvy, inside-out menswear show.

And the idea of escape - from uniformity, from dress codes, from rules in general was an intriguing one.

They represented two very different kinds of magic, and two different kinds of escape. And in his collection, which evoked the potent shadow of turnof-the-millennium minimalism, Nicoll seemed to want a bit of both. On the one hand, delicate slip dresses (suspended by barely-there webs of spaghetti straps) unfurled to reveal pastel paisley-print

Inevitably, it meant the collection wasn't as calmly coherent as Nicoll's shows usually are, except for the closing sequence, where his delicate palette switched to seductively assured violets and blacks. But it's clear Nicoll is chafing to move into a different direction: when he came out to take his quick bow, he already had his rucksack strapped to his back.

About Richard was born, in 1977, in London and grew up in Australia. Gaduated from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 2002 with a MA in Womenswear, he is best known for his work on modernist classics with day-to-night versatility.

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STREETSYLE

London Streetstyle Straight from the streets: off the catwalks, London Fashion Week is delivering a riot of colour, texture and print. Happy days. Diego Zuko is on hand to capture all the best style outside of the shows.

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1. Olivia Palermo 2. Alexa Chung 3. Yasmin Sewell 4. Elena Perminova 5. Susie Lau 6. Isabel Austin 7. Portia Freeman 8. Carmen Kot 9. Kannayo Okolie 10. Charlotte Qin 18

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S.O.S

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Things we won’t be wearing from LFW

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From a tampon earring to Kim and Kanye in sequins, there were some real frock horrors amongst the many beautiful clothes to grace the catwalks during the spring/summer 2015 collections

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BY BIBBY SOWRAY

1. Call us old fashioned, but we don’t 5. Next time we want to look like we’ve really think wearing a used tampon as put our clothes on in five seconds flat and pay lots of money for the pleasure an earring is socially acceptable.

- we’ll turn to J.W. Anderson.

2. We already see enough of Kim and Kanye without them being dodgily 6. Bridesmaid’s dress lilac, a child’s tutu sequin-embellished onto our sweatshirt. and a see-through top do not a nice dress make.

3. We’d like to make a ruling that nothing with the word ‘Ass’ on it ever 7. Shoes under tights. Tights over shoes. What are earth could we call this be worn. look? Oh yes: shights 4. Strategically placed gems do not 8. This student from the Swedish equal appropriate coverage.

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School of Textiles went a bit too far with this lobster-candy cane-wrestling mask hybrid.

9. Don’t you just love a man in dungarees? No? OK, what about a man in guinea pig- and rabbit-print dugarees?

10. With those dangling shiny satin ribbons we’d recommened you take the stairs, not the escalator.

11. Why wear traditional, inoffensive wellies when you can wear these?