Executive Destinations - Issue 2 by Demolition Hub Ltd

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SUMMER 2019 | ISSUE 2

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Executive Destinations

CALIFORNIA DREAMING Check out The Golden State, from tinseltown to national parks

MOROCCAN RETREAT

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Relax in style at Jnane Tamsna and explore the High Atlas mountains

Meet Sabrina Stocker, star of The Apprentice | Visit our top ten New York bars

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SUMMER 2019 | ISSUE 2

ED Executive Destinations

The art of getting lost Travel of all kinds has changed a lot in recent years. It’s easier than ever to get away, and at the same time, harder than ever to escape. It’s something of a cliche that we have become slaves to our smartphones and this is nowhere more apparent than at the point when we might previously have been free from the mundanities and responsibilities of everyday life. So, when was the last time you got lost? Can you even remember being lost and having to walk your way out until you found your bearings? We have lost the art of actively getting lost and as such the art of truly seeing the places we visit, still less stumbling upon them. Discovery cannot be preordained. Columbus did not “discover” the Americas by following a (correct) map and

Cook did not “discover” Australia by knowing it was there. One of the greatest joys of travelling is finding the hidden gem – which cannot be sought, only found. Attempts to find them invariably end in failure, although they may well result in the discovery of something entirely different – as was the case when Columbus sought a shorter route to India. So, with Executive Destinations as your guide, check out the places that lie within our pages and may I suggest just for once, skipping over the contents page (beautifully designed though it is) and diving straight in. And when you do visit our carefully chosen destinations, perhaps turn off your phone, go for a wander, get actively lost and see what you find. Or indeed, what finds you.

Toby Wilsdon Editor

Managing Director Ben Chambers ben@chambers.media Editor Toby Wilsdon toby@chambers.media Feature Writer Michelle Dunn michelle@chambers.media Head of Sales Luke Chaplin luke@chambers.media Sales Executive Charlotte Lane charlotte@chambers.media Production Assistant Aaron Lloyd aaron@chambers.media Designer Nicki Chambers nic@chambers.media Published by Chambers Media Ltd Suite 5 & 6, Chapel House, 1-6 Chapel Road, Worthing, West Sussex BN11 1EX Tel: +44 (0)1903 952 640 The information contained in this publication has been obtained from sources the proprietors believe to be correct. However, no legal liability can be accepted for any errors. No part of the publication can be reproduced without the prior consent of the publisher.

CEO INTERVIEW

Neil Edwards – Chief Executive of the Builders’ Conference trade body

COMPETITION

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CONTENTS

NEW YORK, NEW YORK After Hours: The 10 best New York bars

CALIFORNIA DREAMING With ocean, desert, mountains and metropolis, the Golden State has it all

EUROPEAN LUNCHEON Five fabulous lunch spots in Europe

SEARCHING FOR SEVILLE Discover what this unspoilt Spanish region has to offer

DOING BUSINESS IN SPAIN Culturewise gives the lowdown

CELEBRITY INTERVIEW Sabrina Stocker, star of The Apprentice, talks about her life, travel and business

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UK BEACH BOUTIQUES

Ditch the passport and discover what fabulous beach boutiques the UK has to offer

CARIBBEAN ESCAPE

NEW rope drop pendants Made from silver and climbing rope.

Five fabulous totally tropical hotels in St Lucia

LONDON’S FINEST

The best afternoon teas London has to offer

IN THE MAGHREB

Take a trip to the Sahara desert and a bespoke tour of the High Atlas Mountains

BUSINESS IN MOROCC0

All you need to know about doing business in Morocco from Culturewise

THE PALM OF HER HAND Meryanne Loum-Martin tells of her journey from high flying Paris lawyer to boutique hotellier in Marrakech’s Palmeraie

JNANE TAMSNA REVIEW

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Visit Meryanne Loum-Martin’s luxury retreat outside Marrakech

Take a photo of this page now, buy your favourite pendant later. New Stockists & Distributors, email billy@boingjewellery.com

2001 A BIKE ODYSSEY

Part two of Toby Wilsdon’s epic Stoke to Singapore ride: Ukraine to the Urals

SUMMER 2019 | ISSUE 2

Boing_Jul18_V2 NEW.indd 1

19/06/2018 12:32

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The CEO Interview

Neil Edwards – Chief Executive of the Builders’ Conference

What are the circumstances of your business travel?

My business travel revolves around visiting clients, speaking at events and visiting conferences and exhibitions around the UK. A mentor from my days as a management trainee at Wates Group instilled in me the importance of arriving at a meeting early and refreshed. Never be rushed and always remember the money you are spending on travel and accommodation is not yours unless you own the business. I have kept this understanding throughout my career and travel the best value way to all my destination.

What is the role of travel in your business?

We collect construction information on projects across the UK with one of our key priorities being to deliver accurate data and analysis via our platform, Serino. We predominately travel by train as I feel this is the most environmentally and cost-effective way to travel.

Why is business travel essential?

Our organisation is significantly based around digital technology, however,

making an impact and increasing the detail behind our data and analysis is currently best achieved by a physical presence rather than in a digital or virtual manner. No doubt this will change in the future.

What is the role of travel in business relationships?

It is always important to build relationships and meeting face-toface with clients is essential to this. Therefore travel does play a role in how we operate as an organisation. When speaking at events, being well refreshed when you start is essential as nobody wants to hear a rushed presentation.

What destinations do you travel to?

Do you have a preferred travel provider and can you tell us what keeps you going back? For business travel it will be national rail providers and for personal travel, either Virgin or British Airways. Having tried quite a few airlines, Virgin and BA come out the best overall, not only on the cost of the ticket but also the service you receive on the journey, which is very important on long haul flights.

How do you view business travel? Is it more chore or pleasure? Would you delegate it if possible?

‘I never mix business and personal travel’

For business it is based around UK destinations, whereas on a personal basis, my wife and I travel to many places around the world, normally with a tropical bias.

How often do you travel on business and for how long?

Probably about once a month. Business-wise it is only for a couple of days, however, personally it depends on how far we are travelling. The greater the distance, the more days we are away.

I don’t mind travelling in general. If you asked me that question just after a train or flight cancellation, however, it’s very likely that I would give you a different answer. I did live and work in the Turks and Caicos for a year, with all my travel having to go via Miami Airport and using American Airlines. If you think UK airports are frustrating, go and visit the USA to compare.

Do you tend to mix business travel with pleasure (bleisure)? I never mix business travel with personal travel as I prefer to have no

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distractions when working, or when on holiday. When on business I have specific elements of work I need to prepare before meeting clients or speaking at a conference, therefore I would rather be on my own when I am doing this.

Which destination has been your favourite and why?

The Maldives. I have been very fortunate to visit a number of Maldivian Islands and every one of them has been stunning. Whether you are in a land villa or water villa, the experience is fantastic and the resort staff cannot do enough to make your holiday the best ever. To top the whole experience, arrive by seaplane to view the many different atolls on the way from around 2,000 ft. If you are very lucky you might even see a whale shark.

What makes a good location to do business and why?

I recently stayed in Chester. It is a great city with a lot of history. The area

The Builders’ Conference

is an independent, not for profit trade body providing members and the construction industry with upto-the-minute sales leads, market intelligence, statistical data and networking opportunities. Established for more than 80 years, it has one of the most extensive and trusted digital data platforms of projects, clients, consultants and contractors in the UK. It handles more than 11,000 projects each year, worth in excess of £50bn. Members monitor, apply for and win work every day using the Builders’ Conference’s realtime data platform, Serino. The Builders’ Conference is totally independent, not affiliated

also has a healthy night-time economy with some fantastic places to eat. For me this is a worthy place for a business event, with great rail links across the country as well.

What are your personal preferences for hotels or other places to stay?

overnight. If there is some element of cultural experience available, this is always a benefit. My ideal leisure destination is tropical, with great cultural experiences available. We don’t have a preference on the type of accommodation and often flip flop from Airbnb to all-inclusive hotels.

‘It’s all about location, location, location’

For business travel I always look for hotels that have a good rating for facilities and cleanliness, while being close to the centre of the city or town. For pleasure trips it is all about location, location, location and obviously reading up on TripAdvisor. The actual experience of the hotel is essential to making a judgement, but some reviews can be a little harsh.

How does your ideal business destination differ from your ideal leisure destination?

Business destinations are more functional as I’m generally only there to or funded by any private sector organisation and is run solely for the benefit of its members. A dedicated team of researchers collects data on projects and opportunities and adds them to Serino, meaning members benefit from accurate, up to date information regarding the construction industry. In addition to in-depth statistical analysis and business data, the Builders’ Conference is a knowledge hub. It disseminates industry news and comment to members along with its extensive online directory, ensuring members can stay connected at the touch of a button. There are regular networking and social events throughout the year to enable and

How do you see your business travel habits developing in the future? Will its frequency, intensity or distance grow or scaled back?

With technology advancing every day, it is only right that more and more business meetings are carried out by live streaming to meeting rooms. This cannot be said for conferences and events, however, when having a physical presence in order to network with colleagues is essential. encourage members to meet and discuss matters pertinent to the industry. Some of the UK’s leading construction organisations rely upon the Builders’ Conference’s data and analysis across all sectors. This is used to create the BCLive league table of contract awards published every month by the online magazine, Construction Index. Builders’ Conference members include contractors, subcontractors, suppliers and consultants. The Builders’ Conference is of immense value to companies with turnovers ranging from under £1m to more than £1bn, operating right across the UK and in every sector. ED

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Executive Destinations has this first-class Gate8 Spin MATE Plus suitcase worth ÂŁ159 to give away

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We want to hear from you Email your travellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tales, destination or country reviews and experiences for publication in 500 to 1,000 words to the editor and the best entry will win the suitcase. The remit is broad and frankly, subjective. Judges will be looking for distinctive or unique experiences, good writing and suitability for publication. Including printable images will improve the chances of your entry winning.

NEW YORK

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After hours: New York’s 10 best bars

New York is a bar-hopper’s playground, but not all its watering holes are created equal, writes Michelle Dunn. Here, she reviews some of the city’s best places for a tipple, from neighbourhood wine dens to mixologist-manned cocktail haunts where the drinks are actually worth their price tag

The Parlour at the NoMad features dark oak, plush furnishings and an open hearth Image: Benoit Linero

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The Bar at Baccarat Hotel

The NoMad Bar

Where: 28 West 53rd Street in Midtown East

Where: 10 West 28th Street just east of Broadway

hat: Winner of the America’s Best Bar title (it also made the top 10 in The World’s 50 Best Bars), this swanky stomping ground just around the corner from the NoMad Hotel seduces with classically-focused cocktails, gourmet-inspired bar bites, a well-heeled clientele and a very cheery vibe. And the decor is just as attractive; a vaulted space with opulent embellishments, dark wood panelling and plush leather seating. There’s also a bi-level library with floor-to-ceiling bookshelves and an original spiral staircase imported from the south of France.

hat: Given that it’s housed in the first hotel from France’s centuries-old crystal brand, it’s no shocker that this beauty of a bar is shamelessly over-the-top. Taking its visual cues from old American long bars and blinged-up hotel ballrooms, it dazzles boozehounds with crimson velvet and merlotcoloured walls, leather seats on chequerboard floors, lashings of fine art and three enormous glittering chandeliers – the largest of which is worth $1m. Oversize French doors lead to a landscaped outdoor terrace that’s perfect for sipping bubbly under the stars.

ipples to try: Pull up a throne-like bar stool, browse the deep drinks menu (an $895 bottle of Dom Perignon Plentitude might grab your attention) and order at the 60-foot bar. All liberations (wines, cocktails, champagnes, rare spirits) are poured into Baccarat crystal vessels. Start with one of the Signature Touch cocktails (Petite Marie, Five For Five, Far Eastsider) – or go for the artfully-mixed L’Abricot Sour with a choice of Remy Martin 1738, Remy Martin XO, or Louis XIII.

ipples to try: Stick to draught beer, lager or cider – or play it safer still with one of the brilliant alcohol-free cocktails made with freshlysqueezed juices, tonics and tinctures. Alternatively, try one of award-winning bar director Leo Robitschek’s bolder and more potent offerings such as Start Me Up with bourbon, rum, strega, honey, ginger, lemon and orange bitters or Ringo with Japanese rice whisky, rye whiskey, aged aquavit, green apple, lime and mustard. www.thenomadhotel.com

∧

www.baccarathotels.com

NEW YORK

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Bar Goto

The Rum House

Where: 245 Eldridge Street in the Lower East Side

Where: Hotel Edison at 228 West 47th Street in Midtown

hat: With former Pegu Club barman Kenta Goto at its helm, this minimalist bar champions delicate cocktails, elevated snacks and a trailblazing menu inspired by Japanese comfort cuisine. Designed by Wilkinson Architects, it is housed in an intimate space on the ground floor of an old tenement building, the interiors are sleek and handsome. Expect blonde and dark woods, soft amber lighting, comfortable banquettes and an L-shaped bar. With a regular crowd that’s mostly creative types and Wall Streeters, this place is at its buzziest after office hours.

hat: Just a stone’s throw from Times Square, this 1970s-style watering hole lures Broadway showgoers and serious drinkers with house originals, classic cocktails and some of the city’s most extravagant rumbased libations. Owned by the genius team behind Tribeca’s cocktail haven, Ward III, the vibe is as atmospheric as it gets – leather banquettes, glowing candles, deep red walls and a wood and copper design theme throughout. There’s also a nightly pianist as well as superattentive bartenders who put on a show with every pour.

ipples to try: Kenta Goto’s highballs are sublime, especially Ume Fizz with Japanese plum brandy, Mirabelle and soda; Umami Mary with vodka, shiitake, dashi, miso, lemon, tomato and Clamato; and Bamboo Tonic with sherry, vermouth and tonic. Other winning combs include Improved Shochu Cocktail with barley shochu, bison grass and Douglas fir; and Sakura Martini with gin, sake and a salty cherry blossom. Wine, champagne, sake and beer are also available.

www.bargoto.com

www.therumhousenyc.com

ipples to try: Rum, rum, and more rum drives this swanky neighbourhood staple. Go for Daiquiri Your Way, Her Name Is Kiki Bridges, Tortuga, or Dark & Stormy – or order the Times Swizzle with Plantation 3 Stars rum, lime, demerara syrup, Two James Doctor Bird Jamaican rum, and ginger juice. There are also substantial bar bites (ham and cheese sandwiches or empanadas with beef, chicken, or Nutella) as well as a daily happy hour from 12pm to 6pm.

The Porchlight bar Image: Paul Wagtouicz

Porchlight

Where: 271 11th Avenue in West Chelsea

hat: Appealing to those keen to frequent a sleek haunt with a home-from-home vibe, this Southerninspired cocktail lounge is the vision of Danny Meyer – one of America’s preeminent restaurateurs. Set in a renovated 19th-century warehouse, authentic design touches, include a salvaged-wood bar, original exposed brick-lined walls, cast iron columns, industrial lighting and minimalist glassware. There’s also an indoor porch for live bluegrass and jazz performances and a back room for oldschool board games.

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Bemelmans Bar

Death & Co.

Where: The Carlyle at 35 East 76th Street in the Upper East Side

Where: 433 East 6th Street in the East Village

hat: The clue’s in the title at this star-studded stalwart housed in a Beaux Arts building dating back to the 1930s. Named for legendary illustrator and former hotel resident Ludwig Bemelmans (creator of the classic Madeline books), this low-lit bar features chocolate-brown leather banquettes, nickel-trimmed black glass table tops, a dramatic black granite bar, a 24 carat gold leaf-covered ceiling and murals galore (this is the only place in the world to showcase the artist’s work). It’s also the kind of place where drinks are served by waiters in white tuxedo jackets.

hat: It’s been over a decade since this deadly cool cocktail den was voted New York’s most influential bar for bartenders and drinkers alike. Nowadays, it’s still pushing boundaries with a speakeasy-esque vibe, killer cocktails and a strict first-come first-served door policy (the queue gets long so aim to arrive early). Once inside, you’ll find a super-dark space kitted out with wooden panels, suede banquettes, black granite tables and a marble bar. The staff are highly-trained and can make pretty much any shaken and stirred concoction you fancy.

ipples to try: “Our cocktails may not change the world, but we sincerely hope that, sip by sip, little by little, they will help transform your day.” And they certainly do. Order Gun Metal Blue with mezcal vida, blue curaçao, peach brandy, lime and cinnamon; Tommy Pickles with Absolut Elyx, cassis, pickled beet brine, lemon and Dale DeGroff’s Pimento Bitters; or Good Vibrations with plantation pineapple rum, Fernet-Branca, coconut, lime and canne syrup.

ipples to try: Stick to Martinis or try Prohibition-era cocktails such as Whiskey Smash or Old Cuban – a champagne mojito infused with Bacardi and rum, mint, lime juice and angostura bitters. Equally memorable is the Old Fashioned with Maker’s Mark bourbon, simple syrup, muddled orange, cherries and angostura bitters; and Tommy Rowles with rum, lime, tonic and Martell cognac. This one it was created in honour of the barkeeper who worked here for 53 years.

www.porchlightbar.com

www.rosewoodhotels.com

www.deathandcompany.com

ipples to try: Given this is the most significant institution to emerge from the contemporary craft cocktail movement, it comes as no surprise that the offerings fuse creative techniques and novel ingredients like nowhere else. Don’t dare to leave without ordering Blood Moon with Laird’s bonded apple brandy, buffalo trace bourbon, raspberry, calpico and lemon, or Greenbriar with Liistau Don Nuno Olorosso, dry vermouth, péche, mint and orange bitters. ∧

NEW YORK

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Slowly Shirley

Dear Irving

Upstairs at the Kimberley

Where: 121 West 10th Street in the West Village

Where: 55 Irving Place in Gramercy Park

Where: The Kimberly Hotel at 145 East 50th Street, Midtown

hat: Launched in 2014, this cocktail venue inspired by Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris has four themed rooms representing different historical eras. There’s Marie Antoinette’s decadent parlour with chandeliers, luxe settees and gilded mouldings; the JFK Room with 1960s Mad Men-style design and leather seating; the Gatsby Room for crystal curtains and Art Deco touches; and the Abraham Lincoln Room for velvet couches and a dark wooden bar. All tables have personal buzzers for speedy drinks. Reservations are advisable, but there is seating for walk-ins.

hat: For 360-degree views of midtown Manhattan and the Chrysler Building, this penthouse-level drinking space 30 storeys above the streets has three distinct areas, retractable glass ceilings and walls, a lively ambience and a mix of twinkling lights, cascading greenery and elegant leather seating. There’s also a small outdoor patio with a marble fireplace and redcushioned wicker cabanas, a striking hand-rubbed bronze bar and a 60-inch TV for private screenings. Guests are asked to respect the business casual dress code (no trainers or caps).

ipples to try: The highlights of this time travelling bar are the cocktails, all of which come with handcarved ice. Order Whiskey Business with rye, ancho chile, lemon, cinnamon and angostura bitters; Vice Versa with gin, grapefruit, pamplemousse and rosé cava; Season of Fortune with vodka, cordial, lemon and Earl Grey iced tea; and Butler Service with armagnac, amontillado sherry, port, crème de cacao, amaro averna and mole bitters.

www.dearirving.com

www.upstairsnyc.com ED

hat: Hidden beneath the ever popular The Happiest Hour, this subterranean speakeasy has managed to remain gloriously under-the-radar. With copious 1940s Hollywood-themed decor, it has a definite art deco feel; from customised mahogany tables, glamorous leather banquettes and palm tree wallpapers to cool lighting, creative glassware and faux golden Oscars. There’s also a dining area (the burgers are excellent), a well-curated jazz playlist and knowledgeable bartenders who oversee a commendable cocktail menu.

ipples to try: While the rare and vintage spirits, beers, ciders and wines are memorable, most are here for the cocktails. Order Village Bicycle with vodka or gin, blanc vermouth, kaffir lime, lychee, ginger, lemon and Dorothy Parker gin; Ingrid Bergman with cava, cedrat citron liqueur, Edelste Hopfenweisse beer distillate, lemon syrup, grapefruit bitters and absinthe; or Telegraph with cognac, Fernet Branca, gin, St. Germain, ginger, lime and mint. www.slowlyshirley.com

ipples to try: Worldrenowned mixologist Alex Ott’s house cocktails include Rum Service with spiced rum, nuances of honey, fresh pear, and zesty lime; The Chrysler with champagne, honey, Hennessy cognac, fresh lemon, and lime; Watson with ginbased cucumber martini, white cranberry juice, and fresh lime; and Midtown with bourbon, fresh raspberry and chamomile. There’s also a great selection of champagnes and wines by the glass.12pm to 6pm.

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Freeways are critical to getting around the Greater Los Angeles area Image: Sean Pavone

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California dreaming however. Sun, sea, snow and mountains can all be found in California, which is more than 1,240km in length and home to almost 40 million people. California is the ideal destination to rent a car and embark on a scenic road trip

Los Angeles International Airport is the best-connected airport in the state, with one plane landing every 55 seconds. Traffic is notoriously unforgiving in the city and public transport is sparse, but LA is well served by ride-sharing services such as Uber and Lyft. A 45-minute journey from the airport will take visitors to The Hollywood Roosevelt hotel, famed for once being home to Marilyn Monroe and the venue for the Oscars. The hotel offers authentic Hollywood glamour with a premium experience. It has a luxury swimming pool with cabanas for hire, cocktail lounge, game parlour with vintage bowling lanes and a 24-hour burger joint. Request a boulevard-facing room for views of the Hollywood sign. Just a short walk from the hotel is Runyon Canyon, one of the most popular hiking destinations in Los Angeles. Spanning 65 hectares (160 acres), the park offers easy paved hikes or, for the most adventurous, off-road

hiking that has visitors navigating the terrain on their hands and knees. Regardless of the route, the summit offers a panoramic view of the city in its entirety. If shopping is on the to-do list, there’s no better place to visit than The Grove. A mix of restaurants, retail and entertainment, The Grove is even home to its own farmers’ market, which offers fresh produce and quick bites to eat every day. When the retail therapy becomes too much, head to 189 by Dominique Ansel for the best cocktails in the city and dine at Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill for the most delicious California rolls – because what else would you eat? For the starry-eyed, the hilltop Griffith Observatory is another mustvisit. Experience a live show at the Samuel Oschin Planetarium or simply stargaze through the site’s ample telescopes. The observatory also offers the best view of the Hollywood sign, a well-kept secret among locals.

Los Angeles

∧

Nicknamed The Golden State, California is famed for its entertainment industry, the Hollywood sign and thriving wellness scene, writes Kirstie Pickering. There is much more to the state than famous residents and kale salads,

CALIFORNIA

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Santa Monica A trip to California isn’t complete without some time spent at the beach. Santa Monica is home to one of the most famous beaches in the world, with its pier one of the most photographed. Hotel Casa Del Mar offers the perfect beachfront accommodation to immerse visitors in the local culture. Offering surf lessons and yoga classes on the sand, the hotel prides itself on its wellness offerings, which include spa facilities. Rent bikes near Santa Monica Pier and cycle along the boardwalk

Night or day, the Golden Gate Bridge is a must-see on any visit to San Francisco

to Venice Beach, home of the original Muscle Beach gym where Arnold Schwarzenegger was once a regular. Venture inland to Venice Canals, a stretch of water created to mimic the famous layout of the Italian floating city. Refuel at nearby C&O Trattoria for a taste of traditional northern Italian cuisine and the best meatball sandwich the west coast has to offer, before heading to Abbot Kinney Boulevard to peruse the endless independent shops and cafes.

The Santa Monica walkway is one of the most referenced beaches in popular culture

San Francisco Regarded as America’s technology capital, San Francisco welcomed almost 26 million visitors in 2018. The expansive waterfront city is home to the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz Island and Fisherman’s Wharf, to name just some of its famous attractions. Stay near the water at the quirky Hotel Zephyr, which offers a dartboard in every room, shuffleboard and pool tables in the communal areas and a fire pit and breakfast van in the courtyard. Just a short walk from the hotel is Pier 39, famed for its huge congregation of sea lions. No visit to San Francisco is complete without a trip to the Golden Gate Bridge. Rent bikes from Basically Free Bike Rentals and cycle along the waterfront to the famous crossing. For the more

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Yosemite National Park among the mountain with a spa, games room and outdoor pool. How visitors approach their trip to Yosemite depends on what they want from the experience. For those simply wanting to enjoy the beauty the national park has to offer, embark on the easy hikes to Mirror Lake and Bridalveil Falls, or drive up to Glacier Point for the best views of the valley. Feeling more adventurous? The trail to Nevada Falls is one of the most demanding for an entry-level hiker and takes explorers to two giant waterfalls. Pack lunch and refuel at some of the most picturesque picnic spots imaginable. â&#x2C6;§

adventurous, pedal over the bridge and down to Sausalito, a small city in Marin County that is home to more than 400 houseboats. San Francisco is host to the USAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest and largest Chinatown, covering around 24 blocks. Away from the tourist trap that is Grant Avenue lies Stockton Street, which offers a taste of authentic Chinese culture. The seafood markets are particularly impressive, with tea tasting experiences available around every corner. Head to City View Restaurant for the best dim sum in town. If Chinese food leaves you craving something sweet, Ghirardelli Chocolate Factory is the place to go. The ice cream and chocolate shop is famed for its indulgent menu, where one giant dessert can easily be shared between two. Keep an eye on Ghirardelli Squareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website for a host of events happening year-round, including outdoor cinema screenings and the annual chocolate festival.

Nestled within the Sierra Nevada Mountains is Yosemite National Park, one of the most stunning valleys in the world. With waterfalls, sequoia trees and mountains aplenty, Yosemite offers visitors the opportunity to escape from the stresses of daily life and reconnect with nature. Hotels within the park itself are sparse, so early booking is essential. The most coveted is The Majestic Yosemite Hotel, which offers sweeping views of the valley and a pool to relax beside after a long day of hiking. For those happy to drive a little further to experience the park, Tenaya Lodge offers a taste of luxury Sheer on one side and curved on the other, Half Dome is a distinctive granite formation at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley

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McWay Falls are visible from close to, but not on the coastal highway

Big Sur Big Sur has a significant role to play in making the waterside drive along the Pacific Coast Highway (California State Route 1) one of the most scenic in the world. Bixby Creek Bridge is a popular site of interest with tourists and photographers alike and runs parallel to the coastline of the Pacific Ocean. There is more to Big Sur than the famous arched bridge. McWay Falls is a 25-metre waterfall nestled away on a small beach, accessible

The Transamerica Pyramid was San Franciscoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tallest building until 2018

only by keen hikers. Nearby is Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, which offers tourists the chance to see more natural wonders, such as the huge redwood trees that California is famed for. The Ventana Big Sur resort is the perfect base to explore the area. From glamping to suites with private hot tubs, this hotel is unique in its offerings and strives to blend high-end luxury with the best of nature. Book a table at the rustic on-site Sur House restaurant to sample the menu, which has been created using only sustainably sourced ingredients.

Built in 1932, the Bixby Creek Bridge made the Big Sur area accessible all year round

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Business in California California is home to San Francisco’s Silicon Valley, the world’s biggest technology hub. The area earned its nickname in the 1970s and ‘80s from the silicon chip and computer manufacturers that operate there. Today, Silicon Valley is host to the headquarters of some of the world’s biggest companies, including Apple, Tesla and Netflix. Given the number of technology companies that operate in Silicon Valley and the density of the area, the valley is regarded as offering some of the best opportunities for entrepreneurs, small businesses and startups to flourish. The area’s reputation means there is a concentration of tech experts waiting to get their next gig in the industry, helping local businesses recruit some of the best talent in the sector. Although there is always the chance that you might meet a director at Apple in the queue for coffee, Silicon Valley is one of the most expensive places to live in the whole world. Monthly rent for a studio apartment averages $2,000, with many resorting to long commutes from outside the city to ease the financial pressure of ED accommodation.

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Five fabulous lunch spots in Europe

City travel requires a lot of energy, writes Michelle Dunn, so it’s crucial to not waste time trawling the streets for somewhere decent to eat – especially when there’s an important meeting on the menu. Here she gives her roundup of the best European places to lunch with clients or colleagues

Amsterdam

The foodie scene in the Dutch capital is booming, with restaurants covering all manner of creative menus made with seasonal produce. For waterfront dining, industrial-chic surroundings, and terrific views, Café-Restaurant Stork (Gedempt Hamerkanaal 201; www.restaurantstork.nl) is a badlykept secret fish and seafood housed in an old warehouse on the northern banks of the River IJ. Start with the Stork’s Platter (North Sea crab claws, yellowfin tuna, mackerel rillettes, blini with smoked salmon) and follow with succulent lobsters, tasty oysters or generous portions of sea bream, sea bass, brill, plaice or sole (all fish is sustainably caught). The Meets (Cornelis Troostplein 3; www.themeets.nl) just off Ferdinand Bolstraat in the Pijp neighbourhood ups the ante for wholesome lunches made with locally-sourced and organic ingredients free from additives and refined sugars. Following the 80/20 rule (80 per cent plant-based, 20 per cent animal-produced), signature dishes include gluten-free pizza with a chickpea base, avocado toast with sourdough, spinach and roasted tomato, and a Mexican veggie burger with sweet potato, black beans, quinoa, avocado and vegan mayo.

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Image: Igor Vermeer

Image: Jan Bartelsman

There are also sandwiches, burgers and curries for meat-lovers and a selection of immune system-boosting snacks and salads for healthy eaters. Formerly Librije’s Zusje, Spectrum (Herengracht 542-556; www.restaurantspectrum.com) is the Michelin-starred dining space on the lower ground of the legendary Waldorf Astoria. Overlooking Amsterdam’s poshest canal, the main draw is executive chef Sidney Schutte’s intriguing global cuisine created with quality Dutch ingredients. Sample dishes from the tasting menu include slow-cooked eel; smashed carabinero; crispy duck; caramelised veal liver; sea buckthorn; sepia lacquered with coffee; and pure chocolate bros with lovage ice cream, mulberry, jerusalem artichoke and black truffle. Vegetarian options and wine pairings are available.

Lille

The lively French metropolis of Lille flaunts a new wave of gastronomic hotspots that often channel Flemish tradition into the menus. One of the trendiest spots is Coke (30 Rue Thiers; www.brasseriecokelille.fr) – a chic brewery-cum-brasserie housed in the old headquarters of the Lens Mining Company. Owned by the Galliaerde family, who have kept the industrial spirit of the place gloriously intact, this 60-seater presents an ever-changing menu of local and seasonal cuisine. It’s worth succumbing to the Charcoal menu with either four or six services that are worked to precision. Given that you’re in Hauts-de-France, the wine list is exemplary. Le Broc Vieux Lille (32 Place Louise de Bettignies; www.restaurant-lebroc.fr) is heaven for those who like gourmet dishes, traditional northern favourites and a whopping selection of speciality French cheeses. A city staple for more than 10 years, indulgent offerings include tartiflette (Alsatian, traditional, mountain), 12 choices

of delectable fondues with raclettes, Welsh camembert, maroilles, as well as a creative selection of salads, homemade burgers and egg casseroles. The lunch menu is available from Tuesday to Saturday and includes a main course and dessert. There’s also a wide selection of cocktails, cheeses and charcuterie sharing plates. La Petite Cour (17 rue du Curé St-Etienne; www.lapetitecour-lille.fr) impresses with hearty homemade French dishes, an admirable selection of wines, champagnes and spirits and a cosy setting in a 17thcentury parish building steeped in history and Flemish tradition. The menu changes regularly depending on what’s fresh at market, but includes specialities such as vealmashed liver, ravioli with truffle, beef cheeks stew, mushroom casserole, market-fresh fish and steak and chips. The plates are plentiful and come with flavour-packed sides. Try to leave room for dessert – usually ice cream, sorbet, brioche or apple crumble. ∧

Cafe-Restaurant Stork

The Meets Restaurant aims for comfort and colour This image and left: Valentina Sommariva

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Copenhagen

Admiralgade 26 Image: Ulf Svane Photography

Søren Ledet (left) and Rasmus Kofoed, co-owners of Geranium

set menu of mostly artistic-looking vegetables and seafood in which every mouthful is gasp worthy. There’s also a lengthy wine list of approximately 1,900 labels stored in temperature-controlled rooms. The service is top-notch, with many of the attractive dishes delivered directly by the skilful chefs. The earliest you can book a table is 90 days in advance and a deposit for each diner is required. For perfect Nordic cuisine, Manfreds (Jægersborggade 40; www.manfreds.dk) is a casual neighbourhood joint that delivers a good value fixe prix menu with seven courses and a choice of sharing plates, all infused with raw ingredients such as biodynamic vegetables from Kiselgården and Birkemosgård and herbs from the forest. There are also snacks such as smoked almonds and pickled mussels, fantastic tartare with raw meat, and cress and crispy rye. An excellent selection of hard-to-find natural wines is available by the bottle and sometimes by the glass.

Manfreds Restaurant keeps a wide range of wines on display

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Image: Ulf Svane Photography

The gastro jungle that is Copenhagen moves at a fast pace; as soon as one culinary hotspot closes another opens its doors and grabs the crown. Currently, one of the hottest reservations is Admiralgade 26 (Admiralgade 26; www.admiralgade26.dk), a relaxed gourmet eatery from charismatic duo Christian Nedergaard and Sebastian Rind Nellemann who run the beloved wine bar, Ved Stranden 10, just around the corner. Executed with creativity and artistry, the appealing modern menu takes influences from Japan, the Middle East, the Mediterranean and Denmark itself. The wine list has 4,000-plus frequently changing labels, including a selection of biodynamic wines. With the national football stadium and home of FC Copenhagen as its backdrop, Geranium (Telia Parken; www.geranium.dk) is the city’s first and only three Michelin-starred restaurant. Accessed via a lift at ground level, it offers a multi-course

tailored quality

outstanding prices

www.samuel-windsor.co.uk

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Barcelona

Nobody struggles to eat well in the Catalan capital, but there are plenty of alternatives to tapas bars. For oldschool vibes, Can Culleretes (Carrer d’en Quintana 5; www.culleretes.com) is the oldest restaurant in Barcelona and the second oldest in Spain (it has a mention in the Guinness World Records). Complete with a traditional menu that doesn’t feel like it’s changed much since the restaurant opened as a bakery in 1786, there’s a slew of home-cooked delights that have stood the test of time including wild boar stew, pig’s trotter cooked in cava, oven-baked cod, Catalan stuffed pasta and the popular pica-pica (communalstyle plates of fish and seafood). Another classic is Casa Leopoldo (Calle Sant Rafael 24; www.casaleopoldo.es) which has been seducing diners with straightforward dishes and no cliches for decades. Signature offerings include oxtail stew braised in Priorat wine with garnish, squid and prawn

meatballs, prawn and Iberian-ham omelette with American sauce, whole grilled turbot with béarnaise or bilbaína (for two) and grilled beef steak from Oiartzun. Desserts include cheesecake, Crêpe Suzette with vanilla ice cream, and Mascarpone millefeuille with strawberries in Modena vinegar. La Burg (Passeig de Sant Joan Bosco 55; www.laburg.com) raises the steaks high for gourmet burger connoisseurs. Since opening in 2008, it ranks as one of the city’s top spots for its informal vibe, great service, and 100 per cent organic meat – beef is sourced from a breed of roaming grass-grazing Alpine cattle while lamb is from the Pyrenees. Choose from more than 13 juicy burgers as well as generous sides of fresh and homemade french fries, artisan breads and salads – all washed down with excellent beers and wine. There are also fancy desserts crafted by the talented in-house pastry chef. Vegetarian and gluten-free dishes are available.

Inside the House of Small Wonder This image and top and bottom right: Boaz Arad

Image: Vera Lair

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Berlin

Berlin’s culinary landscape has always been exciting and experimental. One of the most iconic spots is House of Small Wonder (Johannisstrasse 20; www.houseofsmallwonder.de) – a concept cafe where the all day menu takes a Japanese twist on classic American dishes. Kitchen favourites include the Biscuit Benedict with ham, soft-cooked organic egg and wasabi-hollandaise sauce; the croissant French toast grilled with béchamel sauce; and the Tex-Mexinspired Okinawan Taco Rice. There are also sandwiches such as mozzarella and tomato, fig brie and apple, or avocado and goat’s cheese served with soup and Mediterranean or spinach salad.

As the city’s most historic and glamorous delicatessen, Rogacki (Wilmersdorfer Street 145/46; www.rogacki.de) has cornered the market since the 1920s. Housed in an old stable, it’s cherished by Berliners for its sprawling food court, smoking chambers and counters filled with 150 kinds of cheese, 200 varieties of cured and fresh meats and fresh breads, salads and dips. But it’s the dizzying fish selection that gets the glory, especially the smoked freshwater eel mainly caught in the nearby lakes. This place gets extremely busy at lunchtime, but there’s indoor and outdoor seating as well as stand-up tables for oysters and a glass or two of Riesling.

Occupying the bottom floor of SOHO House Berlin, The Store Kitchen (Torstrasse 1; www.thestores.com/berlin) requires no membership: just bring your appetite and prepare to embrace an ultra-healthy menu. Those keeping things light can enjoy avocado and poached egg on toast; scrambled eggs with lovage, tomato and chutney; or baked eggs with jerusalem artichokes, carrots, potato and spinach. Alternatively, order the more filling roast chicken with celeriac, butterbeans, kale and green sauce; chickpea pancake with winter vegetables, spiced pumpkin and radicchio; or brown rice with sprouts, sweet potato and pumpkin seed. ED

SEVILLE

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Seville A conversation about a Spanish city break would lead to most tourists searching for trips to Barcelona, Madrid and Valencia, writes Kirstie Pickering. While each offers its own take on Spanish heritage, the less explored city of Seville encapsulates authentic Spanish culture. The southern city boasts a smorgasbord of culture and dining experiences that shouldn’t be overlooked

Seville’s Plaza de España

ttractions

The Royal Alcázar of Seville is a World Heritage Site and the city’s most popular destination. Regarded as the centre of power by kings of the past, the Alcazar is a royal palace with upper levels that are still used by today’s Spanish royal family as their Seville residence. Eager Game of Thrones fans will even recognise the halls and courtyards as the Kingdom of Dorne. The huge Alcazar Gardens are particularly popular with visitors, with opulent waterfalls and flowers displays aplenty. Jump the queues that are present year-round and book your tickets online in advance. The Plaza de España, built in 1929, is one of the most beautiful places in Spain and is popular with tourists looking to experience a taste of

authentic Spanish culture. Flamenco dancers and acoustic bands are always present to provide entertainment. Nestled within the Maria Luisa Park, a 515-metre canal runs parallel to the plaza and visitors can rent rowing boats for an alternative experience. The Plaza was even used as a filming location in Star Wars: Attack of the Clones. Spain is synonymous with flamenco dancing and visitors to Seville should schedule a show into their itinerary. There is a vast array of shows on offer with varying price points, but the Museo del Baile Flamenco (Flamenco Dance Museum) gives visitors an additional insight into the history of the form. The show is set in an intimate courtyard setting and seating is unreserved, so get there early to nab the best spot.

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here to eat

Cocome is also a great choice for lunch, with the restaurant priding itself in using only fresh, nutritious produce for its menu. Cocome has a design your own food concept, with sandwiches, salads and wraps made to customer taste. Dinner is a late night affair in Seville, with people rarely eating before 9pm. La Azotea is one of the city’s most popular places for tapas, creating a luxury spin on the traditional cuisine with lobster, foie gras and salmon tartar all featuring on the menu. Like a restaurant with outstanding aesthetics? Everyone wants a table at El Pinton, so booking is essential. Located near Giralda, the restaurant is popular

partly thanks to its ornate covered courtyard setting and rustic design. Menu highlights include the burrata, steamed mussels and marinated sardines. Leave space for dessert to sample the best lemon pie around.

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The food scene is a huge part of Seville’s culture and visitors are spoilt for choice with the range of eateries to choose from. Start the day with breakfast at Paradas 7, which offers eggs, toast, bagels and healthy bowls alongside an extensive fresh juice and coffee menu. For visitors who have specialist dietary requirements that are often difficult to cater for in mainland Europe, try Almazen Café Sevilla for a wide range of dairy and gluten free options. A popular lunchtime spot with locals is Bar Triana, where patrons stand outside at tall tables eating small plates of cured meats, croquettes and risotto.

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here to stay

Seville is home to a cornucopia of boutique hotels, from hidden gems residing down remote alleyways to lodgings boasting large suntrap terraces and spas. Luxury isn’t hard to come by when searching for accommodation and it comes at a reasonable price compared with other popular Spanish cities. Seville is a relatively small, walkable city, meaning visitors can book any hotel of their choice without worrying about being too far from the key attractions. Hotel Boutique Casa del Poeta is one of the top hotels in the city. With traditional Spanish decor and a quaint courtyard to sit and enjoy breakfast or an evening tipple, the hotel doesn’t disappoint and is perfectly positioned to explore the nearby Alcazar Palace. For a more modern take on Spanish hospitality, cross the bridge to Triana and stay at Hotel Zenit Sevilla. With spa services available and a rooftop bar and pool, this hotel is perfect for those hot summer months when visitors need a break from wandering the tiny alleys of the city. Tourists keen for a more luxurious experience should book at Hotel Palacio de Villapanes, a five-star hotel set within an 18th-century palace. The roof terrace features a pool and there is even a wellness centre on site.

Hotel Palacio de Villapanes

ey events

Spain is known as the land of festivals and fiestas and Seville plays host to unique and entertaining events throughout the year. Semana Santa takes place during Holy Week – Palm Sunday through to Easter Saturday – where large sculptures of Christ are carried through the streets of the city every day. Thousands of people flood the streets to watch the processions leave Seville’s churches in the direction of the cathedral. The presence of both the ornate sculptures and huge throngs of revellers is impressive to witness. Feria de Abril – translating as April Fair – is celebrated two weeks after Easter. The occasion is an opportunity for locals to wear

their finest traditional clothing to dance, socialise and eat. Many participate in special folk dances that are only performed during the annual festivities. During the final week of July, locals gather in Triana to celebrate the festival of Velá de Santa Ana in honour of Triana’s patron saint. Impromptu flamenco dancing, tapas served on the street and a constant flow of sangria makes the celebrations fun and welcoming for natives and tourists alike. Every September, Seville and Malaga alternate in hosting the biggest flamenco festival in the world. Bienal de Flamenco sees dancers and musicians congregate in the city to celebrate the dance form, which is thought to have been created in Seville. ED

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Spanish Business Culture Modern Spain is comprised of relatively autonomous regional ‘communities’, each of which enjoys a degree of local self-government. Many Spaniards derive their sense of identity as much from their region of origin as from the country. There is considerable political tension between the most independent-minded of provinces, Catalonia and the Basque Country, and the Spanish central government. The Spanish are often described as a highly individualistic nation. However, it is important not to confuse Spanish individualism with either American-style self-reliance or British eccentricity. Instead, Spanish individualism translates into a tendency to trust individuals over authorities or institutions. In other words, if you are an individual who is worth respecting, with personal honour and dignity, you will be respected. This is because you can be relied upon on a personal level, even if the institutions to which you belong are not. Your character, breeding and ability to keep your word are what mark you out. In the work environment, loyalty to an institution or ‘mission’ is rarely a motivating force for individual employees. Instead, loyalty is to other team members, or to trustworthy managers. While there is an expectation that management styles will be directive rather than consensual, such direction is expected to be given in a courteous fashion. There is an additional expectation that once a clear direction is given, individual employees will have considerable freedom in deciding how best to put the decision into practice. Thus, the Spanish concept of a team tends to be

S PA I N one of individuals working independently, but under a strong leader. Finding the right balance between expecting Spanish colleagues to conform to team norms and allowing them to resolve problems independently can be difficult. The Spanish are considerably more grouporiented than some other cultures. As a result, your Spanish counterparts may need to find out a more about your background than would be the case elsewhere. This helps them to understand who you are and how you fit in to your organisation. The Spanish affinity for groups can also be expressed in a certain suspicion of eccentricity or of individuals who do not overtly fit in to recognisable groups. One way around this is by making an extra effort to get to know colleagues and clients at a personal level and by treating them with warmth and respect. While data and facts are important in persuading others, personal rapport with your Spanish counterparts can also be vital. If they have a favourable impression of you and believe that you can be trusted, your chances of doing business increase considerably. Transparency and open flow of information is not generally a Spanish business characteristic. Even if counterparts seem friendly and encouraging, they may not be forthcoming with information they consider valuable or important, unless they are explicitly asked for it. Try to remain warm and personal during negotiations and avoid anything that might threaten your counterparts’ dignity. This implies using language that is diplomatic, courteous and discreet. Spain has the highest number of national and regional public holidays in Europe. Many occur mid-week and it is common to take a four-day weekend (called a Puente) during these periods. The Spanish traditionally take all of August as holiday. Punctuality has not always been assigned the same importance in Spain as in other cultures. While much has changed, do not be surprised if people arrive at appointments or meetings a few minutes late. This is not intended to be rude or disrespectful. ED

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l e v a CELEBRITY r t life & Sabrina Stocker, one of the star performers of The Apprentice 2018, talks to Toby Wilsdon about her experience of TV exposure, setting up a business, education, travel and inspirations

Sabrina Stocker

CELEBRITY When I meet her on the rooftop garden of a distinctive west London private members’ club, Sabrina is looking supremely relaxed, despite her hectic schedule running her tennis events business, which conducts coaching and tournaments for children aged five to 18. Perhaps a little more laid back than she might be were she drinking her favourite espresso martini, which she used in a metaphor for her personality in the interview stages of last year’s season of The Apprentice – “trying to be classy and sophisticated on the outside and a little wacky and wonderful on the inside.” Sabrina is just as she says, an energetic and bubbly character and “you do get that after a lot of coffee,” she explains. Having been a contender on The Apprentice, Sabrina is getting on with getting down to business with My Tennis Events, drawing inspiration from diverse influences in family, business and the wider world. But before drawing on who Sabrina Stocker is, where she comes from and where she’s to, I ask just what it was like to be a contestant on Alan Sugar’s show. “Lord Sugar is an absolute teddy bear, he really is,” she says. [I hope we are not giving away state secrets here]. “When we had the interview I couldn’t stop smiling and they had to edit it out. He was saying, ‘Sabrina, take this seriously.’ I said, ‘I am,’ but I couldn’t stop smiling.” There was clearly no harm done as she says she’s due to be playing doubles with Sugar very soon. Looking back, the roots of Sabrina’s business seem in almost equal measures to be in enterprise and tennis, with a touch of pedagogy thrown in. Her first money-making bid came aged 14, when she took the opportunity offered by a Young

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The pursuit of social good fits into the mix as well for Sabrina. “With an obesity epidemic, not enough kids being active and spending so much time on their phones, making kids feel comfortable and secure means they get that social element as well.” It’s a win-win situation: kids come back, they are physically active, gain real world social skills and business thrives. Interestingly, when asked about earliest career ambitions, Sabrina says she once wanted to present the BBC children’s TV programme, Blue Peter. “I’d say Blue Peter would be 100 per cent up my street. That would be a lot of fun.” The conversation turns to role models and aside from her obviously motivational parents, Sabrina cites a number of strong women who have inspired her. The first she mentions is

‘Lord Sugar is an absolute teddy bear’

the actor Emma Watson, who played Hermione Granger in the Harry Potter series. “She is an amazing actor who grew up in the best film [series] ever,” she says but her wider body of work post-Harry Potter is what is truly inspiring. Watson studied English literature at an Ivy League university (Brown, on Rhode Island), with a year as a visiting student at Worcester College, Oxford. “She’s a very strong feminist and campaigner and has the motivation to be so successful but so down to earth and she genuinely wants to learn about things.” It’s all about learning again. Also on Sabrina’s list is powerful actor, businesswoman and, in her own words, “Chief Family Officer” (loving mother, fierce wife, loyal friend), Elena Cardone. Perhaps this should not be too surprising as Sabrina says, “She gets to travel around the world and run her business, which is amazing. She is a super mum, but also a super savvy businesswoman.” ∧

Enterprise scheme to sell retro sweets. She’s not sure this would have worked long term however, saying, “I definitely could not make sweets, I’d just end up eating them.” Her love of tennis goes back further. She started playing when she was seven, reaching county level in Middlesex, travelling the country with her father and then she was coaching by the age of 14. Her dad, who had been a professional snooker player before moving into academia, had encouraged her to pursue a sport that she loved and with both parents in teaching, she’d taken a wide range of extracurricular activities at school. Her mum and dad were motivational, but not tiger parents, she says. Sabrina’s business clearly mirrors her parents’ careers as well as their interest in sport. She coaches children, with a clear sense of their welfare at heart and sound pedagogy in her method. “A lot of the reasons why my company does well is because it’s structured around kids’ learning and the mindset of children, all of our staff build on positive reinforcement. Having teachers as parents influenced that because we understand the learning process.” There is sound business behind this as well as sound education. “We massively encourage sportsmanship, because in a tennis tournament, you could have 16 kids and only one of them is going to win.” Clearly if only the winner and closest rivals are motivated, you’ll only get a handful of return customers. Besides, she says, “If you’re winning every single tournament, you’re in the wrong event.”

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This strikes a chord with Sabrina’s ambitions. “I never wanted a nine to five job. I wanted to create a business where I was able to travel and work anywhere in the world, which is what I’ve done. I can have my laptop and work where I want to work, because I’ve got the flexibility and funds to do that.” On the subject of travel, Sabrina is spontaneous and open minded. She books two or three days in advance, using Kayak.com to randomly search the web for worldwide destinations and takes her pick of what’s available. She says she’ll book a hotel for three nights to allow herself to settle in and then “just go with the flow. That way you get out of your comfort zone,” she says. Confident and adventurous, Sabrina says she loves travelling on her own. “The best bit is meeting everyone in hostels, or different hotels. When you’ve got similar interests then you just merge together somehow. And you get to meet diverse people that you wouldn’t usually have the opportunity to. “I think that’s the best bit about travelling. The number of adventures that I’ve had travelling on my own that I’m not going to share...” One that she is prepared to share is when she was island hopping in Fiji. “I met the Fijian rugby team and I ended up taking everyone in the place we were staying to do zumba on the beach. They asked me to stay so that I could be a zumba teacher.” ED

Bucket list activity

Explore the Amazon rainforest. Or climb a major mountain. All very high adrenaline things.

Bucket list country to visit

Cuba. I’m a Cuban salsa dancer and it’s so remote and has such an amazing history.

Your greatest virtue

Optimism. If there’s ever something that I have to overcome, I see it as a challenge rather than a problem.

Virtue you admire in others

Energy. If someone’s got good energy, a good aura, you can tell straight away.

The most underrated characteristic

Being grateful for your circumstances. We’re are in a tiny percentage of the world that is very, very lucky – an income of £25,000 a year puts you in the top one per cent globally.

Favourite word Biblioteque

Favourite band

Anyone who saw The Apprentice will know…. AC/DC. We had to pick a song for an airline advert, promoting the airline, and I picked the song Highway to Hell just because I liked AC DC.

Business opportunities

I would love to go into kids or sports presenting. It’s something I’d do really naturally and I think it’s right up my street.

Thoughts on Wimbledon

It’d be amazing if Serena and Andy won (doubles). Andy’s gone through so much and Serena hasn’t won a grand slam since she gave birth. Playing the Australian Open when she was pregnant – I have so much respect for her.

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YACHTS

VILLAS

NIGHTLIFE

BEACH CLUBS

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RESTAURANTS

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UK BEACH BOUTQUES

The UK’s Best Beach Boutiques For sparkling golden sands, bright blue skies, picture-perfect towns and villages and all the fresh air you can muster, nothing beats the UK’s coastline, writes Michelle Dunn. Here’s our edit of some of the best beach-chic pads, all of which are perfect for when the warm weather rolls around

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The Scarlet, Cornwall www.scarlethotel.co.uk

Setting: For luxury-hunters whose passion for comfort is matched by a passion to save the planet, this just-forgrown-ups eco-hotel is a game changer. Complete with far reaching views of Mawgan Porth Beach and the Cornish coastline, at just two miles from Newquay Airport and a short drive from the A39, the location is spot-on. You’ll also be just 25-minutes from Padstow and roughly an hour from the golden sands and too-cool surfing action at Watergate Bay.

Hot tubs and dramatic sea views at The Scarlet

Stay: With so many cliff paths right on your doorstep, embracing the outdoors life is very much in order. Head to sandy Mawgan Porth to marvel at the wealth of marine life, pedal the South West Coast Path (you’ll be within easy reach of national Cycle Route 32) and spend time kayaking, horse riding, surfing, coasteering, walking, fishing or rock climbing. Alternatively, stay put and take part in the yoga, tai chi, stretching, breathing and meditation classes that run daily in the hotel’s light-filled studio. All are free, but pre-booking is required. Tredragon Road, Mawgan Porth, Newquay, Cornwall TR8 4DQ

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Scene: Given that it’s built into the clifftop, wave-watching is guaranteed from pretty much everywhere. In addition to high-design aesthetics that cleverly bring the outside in, you’re met with sunlounger-lined terraces for daytime snoozing, a classy bar for anytime cocktails and a stone-lined outdoor pool for summer swimming. There’s a fabulous restaurant championing Cornish cuisine created with ingredients sourced from organic and sustainable growers. A holistic spa with a pool, sauna, steam room, wood barrel hot tubs, meditation room and a relaxation area with cocoon-like hanging pods and lantern-lit treatment rooms top things off nicely.

Sleep: With floor-to-ceiling windows designed to make the most of beach, sea, sky, garden or cliff views, the 37 luxe rooms and suites are spread across five levels. Available in five categories (Just Right, Generous, Unique, Spacious, Indulgent), all have comfortable king-size beds dressed with deep mattresses and crisp white linens, underfloor heating and an outdoor space (courtyard garden, terrace, or balcony). Bathrooms have freestanding oval baths, rain showers, fluffy bathrobes and aromatherapy toiletries.

Sumptuous freestanding bathrooms at The Scarlet

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UK BEACH BOUTQUES The George in Rye, East Sussex www.thegeorgeinrye.com

Setting: Having bagged the best spot in the middle of the high street, this extended 16th-century coaching inn made a glamorous addition to the picture-perfect town of Rye when it opened in 2006. As central locations go, it doesn’t get better; just a couple of minutes from the medieval castle, Rye train station and Lamb House – the former home of novelist Henry James. Best of all, you can reach the dune-backed beaches of Camber Sands in just 15 minutes. Scene: A wealth of ultra-chic renovations has made this boutique

The Bull Hotel, Dorset www.thebullhotel.co.uk

Setting: Ideal for stressed-out urbanites seeking respite near the world heritage site Jurassic Coast, this 16th-century coaching inn sits in the heart of Bridport – the handsome West Dorset market town that shot to fame as a filming location for ITV’s Broadchurch. The nearest stations are Dorchester and Axminster, both a 20-minute drive away. You’ll also be 30 minutes from Weymouth, 45 minutes from Exeter and an hour from Bournemouth Airport. Scene: The heart-stirring decor will lure you in from the get-go: think original fireplaces, stripped-down wooden floors, carefully-selected antiques and bold on-trend wallpapers. There’s an outdoor terrace, a Victorian ballroom with minstrels’ gallery and, for clandestine cocktails, the tucked-

away Venner Bar, named after a colonel who murdered a lieutenant at the inn during the Monmouth Rebellion. For lunch and dinner, the informal restaurant offers a mostly British menu with a nod to traditional hearty pub favourites such as battered haddock and triple-cooked chips, ribeye or sirloin steak and lamb. Room service is available during kitchen hours. Sleep: Varying in size and layout, the 19 uniquely-styled rooms tempt with shabby-chic decor, tasteful period and retro pieces, arty fittings, plush fabrics by Zoffany and Designers Guild and comfortable beds with Egyptian cotton sheets. The en-suite bathrooms are equipped with Bramley toiletries and while the double rooms offer upgraded amenities and glamorous signature wallpapers, the smaller snug

and single rooms are on-point for those not planning to spend much time holed up indoors. Stay: You’ll be just a mile from the sea, so squeeze in plenty of breezy midday walks and sunset strolls. Mustdos include working your way around Bridport’s hip cafes and vintage shops, stocking up on fresh produce at the local market (Wednesdays and Saturdays), watching the boats at West Bay harbour and hunting for fossils along the Jurassic Coast. Also factor in a visit to the Bridport Museum on South Street to learn about the town’s famous net and rope making industry, especially the hangman’s noose, also known as the Bridport Dagger. 34 East Street, Bridport, Dorset DT6 3LF

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one of the most visually stunning on the south coast. There’s a secluded garden courtyard for sundowners, a stylish bar for knocking back Rye Smile whiskey cocktails and offerings from Kent and Sussex wineries and an on-site shop selling everything decorative used in the hotel, from bedspreads and mohair throws to bespoke headboards and roll-top baths. Dining is an equally decadent affair with a cracking menu that focuses on European brasserie cuisine with Mediterranean accents, we suggest going for one of the seafood or steak dishes. Round-the-clock room service is available.

Stay: Once you’ve worked your way around the museum sites, climbed the tower of St Mary’s Parish Church and admired the 550-plus artworks at the Rye Art Gallery, hit the beach at nearby Camber Sands – the region’s standout spot that’s famous for its two-mile stretch of golden sands and dunes. For sporty types, this is one of the best places to kitesurf in the south of England and there’s a centre located on the beach’s eastern end that runs kite surfing lessons and kiteboarding

courses almost daily between March and November. 98 High Street, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7JT Note: After a fire on 20 July, The George hotel and restaurant is temporarily closed but will be reopening as soon as possible. For information about the refurbishment go to www.thegeorgeinrye.com. ∧

Sleep: Attention to detail is everything in the 34 individuallystyled rooms, all of which have customised Vi-spring beds with Frette sheets and lavish throws and a pleasing mix of classic and contemporary decor. En-suite bathrooms have chrome power showers or freestanding roll-top baths, fluffy bathrobes, soft towels and REN toiletries. For the extra wow factor, the luxury rooms and the junior suites feature king-size or four-poster beds as well as upgraded room facilities.

The Benson Room at The George in Rye Image: Anneli Marinovich

Junior Suite at The George in Rye Image: Anneli Marinovich

UK BEACH BOUTQUES

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Escape Boutique B&B, North Wales www.escapebandb.co.uk

This image and below: The Escape Boutique B&B in Wales

Setting: A desirable base for staying and playing on the North Wales coast, this converted 1850s villa is located off the main shopping street in Llandudno – the Victorian seaside resort cherished for its sweeping bays, towering headlands, interesting ancient sites, classic afternoon teas and long-running Punch and Judy shows on the waterfront promenade. You’ll be five-minutes from Llandudno railway station and a 15-minute drive from Colwyn Bay. Scene: As Llandudno’s first contemporary boutique B&B, the designer-loving owners nailed the concept with eclectic decor, a lounge with love seats, an honesty bar and a homely vibe throughout. There’s an attractive dining room for breakfast; choose from continental, full Welsh, vegetarian or cooked-to-order dishes. When hunger calls later in the day, the management recommend Osbornes Cafe and Grill for its brasserie cuisine, The Seahorse Restaurant for its outstanding fish dishes and Hickory’s Smokehouse in nearby Rhos-on-Sea for its slowcooked meats and BBQ delights. Additionally, the entire place can be hired out exclusively. Sleep: Individually-designed with a different contemporary theme, all nine double rooms feature wooden or carpeted flooring, seating areas and funky curios such as vintage chairs, retro light fittings and imaginative artworks. Each has Blu-ray DVD player, Bose sound

system and beds with pillow top mattresses and fine Egyptian cottons. PlayStations are available on request. En-suite bathrooms have large walk-in showers or copper bathtubs. Stay: Snowdonia National Park is just 30 minutes away for those active types keen to get stuck into mountain biking, rock climbing, canyoning, castle-hopping and hiking. Nine mountain ranges cover approximately 52 per cent of the park and include many peaks that are more than 1,000 metres high. Further thrills

include photographing the chunk of limestone known as the Great Orme, visiting the Bronze Age copper mines and hitting either of Llandudno’s awardwinning beaches, the buzzy North Shore Beach and the quieter, sand-duned West Shore Beach. 48 Church Walks, Llandudno, Gwynedd, North Wales LL30 2HL

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The Cary Arms, Devon www.caryarms.co.uk Setting: Once you’ve mastered the single-carriage, white-knuckle steep access road, this New Englandstyle inn at the bottom of a hill on the South Devon coast rewards with dropdead-gorgeous views over Babbacombe Bay and the English Riviera. Not only will you have the South West Coastal Path within rolling-out-of-bed distance, but the colourful fishing port of Brixham and the historic quayside town of Dartmouth are both close by. Scene: This laid back boutique has all the markings of an upscale seaside escape; think relaxed lounge, billiard room, decked sun terrace with outdoor fire and six moorings where you can charter a boat or hire kayaks for watery fun. There’s a great restaurant for Devon beef, Lyme Bay lobster, line-caught seafood and posh pub classics. The bar has a log-burning stove and there is a glassfronted spa with waterfall hydrotherapy pool, relaxation area, exotic experience shower, steam room, sauna, gym and three private treatment rooms.

Sleep: There are 10 characterful sea-facing rooms and suites at the inn, three restored angler’s cottages and eight newly launched and very quirky double-decker beach huts and beach suites. Practically all accommodation assures views of Babbacombe Bay and the South Devon coast from a private balcony or patio. Further amenities include oversized beds dressed with crisp white linens and hot water bottles at turndown during the winter months. Bathrooms have soft towels and cosy waffle bathrobes. Stay: While amazing vistas up the Devon coast may keep you rooted to the spot, the surrounding area is worth a visit. You’ll be a 30-minute drive from Dartmoor National Park, an area of outstanding natural beauty characterised by bleak and beautiful moorland, rugged windswept tors and archaeological sites galore. There are also countless towns and villages for cream teas, real ales and artisan shops – head to Widecombe-in-the-Moor, Ponsworthy, Buckfastleigh, Bovey Tracey, Chagford, Ashburton, Sticklepath and Drewsteignton. Beach Road, Babbacombe, Devon TQ1 3LX ED

ST LUCIA

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Five fabulous hotels in St Lucia This year marks the 40th anniversary of independence for St Lucia, the teardrop-shaped eastern Caribbean island cherished for its palmfringed beaches, lush rainforest and mountain peaks. Here’s our pick of its five best fly-and-flop hotels worth checking into, writes Michelle Dunn

LADERA

The setting: Views of the UNESCO World Heritage-designated Gros and Petit Piton dominate at this eco-luxe retreat set on a volcanic ridge line at the southern end of the island, roughly 330 metres above sea level. You’ll be a 45-minute drive from Hewanorra International Airport (alternatively, arrive by boat to the coastal town of Soufrière) and just five minutes from the Sulphur Springs – the world’s only drivein volcano. There’s no shoreline, but a shuttle to the white sands of Sugar Beach leaves daily at 9am and 12pm, returning at 2:15pm and 4:45pm.

Suite pools at The Ladera offer stunning vistas at all times of day

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The stay: Formerly part of the Rabot Estate, one of Soufrière’s oldest cocoa plantations, the look is one of rustic chic; think tropical greenheart hardwoods, timber, stone, rock, terracotta tiles and customised mahogany and cedar furniture hand-carved by local artisans. There’s a spa for blissbringing treatments with Sothy’s products, a well-equipped gym for cardio and strength training machines and an outdoor pool for sunloungers. An award-winning restaurant for local dishes and a cellar housing more than 2,000 bottles from some the world’s most famous vineyards top things off nicely. The daily activity schedule makes it impossible to get bored; take your pick from mixology classes, sunrise mediations, chef ’s demos, market tours and sunset cruises. The rooms: All of the 37 unique suites have a missing wall – an intentional architectural feature leaving the west side open to expose the dramatic views of the Pitons and Caribbean Sea (this is just stunning at sunset). All accommodation has a private heated or non-heated plunge pool, four-poster kingsize bed, minibar stocked with local speciality liquor, Nespresso machine and luxury bathroom with Molten Brown toiletries and cosy bathrobes. There are also open-air living rooms, outdoor showers and complimentary Ladera’s Necessaire Kits complete with binoculars, eye masks, slippers and star charts for sky-gazing. ∧

www.ladera.com

ST LUCIA

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Get pampered at Jade Mountain in your bedroom or in the spa Image: Joe McNally Al fresco dining with a view

Guests can taste and participate in the making of chocolate in Jade Mountain’s Chocolate Laboratory

JADE MOUNTAIN

The rooms: Accessed by a network of bridges and walkways, the 24 technofree “sanctuaries” constructed from stone, concrete, steel and wood are available in four categories: Star, Moon, Sun and Galaxy. All have 4.5-metre-high ceilings, sweeping indoor-outdoor spaces, private infinity pools, king-size beds and an entirely absent fourth wall to maximise the views. There are five additional sky suites but these come without a private pool. Bathrooms have digitally-controlled LED chromotherapy whirlpool tubs, rain showers, porcelain sinks, Frette bathrobes and Molten Brown toiletries. Doting butlers (known as Major Domos) are available aroundthe-clock. www.jademountain.com

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The setting: Facing the 240-hectare (600-acre) Anse Chastanet estate in St Lucia’s south-west, this “resort within a resort” enjoys an enviable setting poised high above the emerald-green Pitons and the Caribbean Sea. You’ll be a 10-minute walk from the sandy beach (quicker by shuttlebus), a short drive from Soufrière and within easy reach of the award-winning Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens. There’s also an abundance of pristine coral reefs surrounding the estate, making it ideal for snorkellers, scuba divers, birdwatchers and those who want to play castaway.

The stay: The architect and owner Nick Troubetzkoy attributes much of his success to the synergy between the spectacularly scenic setting, the philosophy of building in harmony with Caribbean nature and his exceptional resort team. There are on-site activities galore; jungle biking, snorkelling, scuba diving, non-motorised water sports, sailing, hiking and sunset cruises on the resort’s yacht. A superb restaurant, a spa with otherworldly pampering rituals and a fitness studio also cater to residents. Further thrills include free-to-use Cannondale mountain bikes, an organic farm a 20-minute drive away and a chocolate laboratory where you’ll get to take part in chocolate sensory tastings, educational estate trips and truffle making classes.

Only 25 minutes away from Faro International Airport, centrally located in the South of Portugal, itÂ´s easy to reach and stay at Hilton Vilamoura. Whatever your occasion, plan it with us. Please contact us at vilamoura_events@hilton.com or call +351-289-304-000.

Terms & conditions apply. Visit www.hiltonvilamouraresort.com for full details.

ST LUCIA

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The stay: Given that Troubetzkoy was committed to environmentally conscious development before its true importance was recognised, everything here is designed to make the most of the natural surroundings. There’s a marine reserve protecting miles of colourful coral reefs teeming with tropical fish, a casual beachside bar and restaurant for upscale wining and dining, a panoramic hillside lounge and two treehouses for candlelit soirees. You can tap into your spiritual side with yoga and meditation classes or relax in the spa – a peaceful space complete with five air-conditioned treatment rooms and an open-air cabana overlooking the Anse Chastanet reef. The hotel doesn’t have a pool, but that matters not a lot when the glistening Caribbean Sea is just below. The rooms: Forty-nine rooms tucked behind the coconut palms lining the beach and spreading up a hillside guarantee great views from louvered windows, wraparound terraces or flower-draped balconies

Image: Justin Foulkes

The setting: Overlooking the twin Pitons on the island’s south-western coast, this Nick Troubetzkoydesigned hillside hideaway captures everything that is great about St Lucia. Set on a 240-hectare (600acre) lush tropical estate, which it shares with Jade Mountain, it borders two silver-sand beaches – both of which are backed by bathtub-warm waters. You’ll be a short walk from Soufrière and have heaps of activities, including walking, hiking, jungle biking, sailing, scuba diving and snorkelling just minutes from your front door.

Light and airy, the Superior Room Anse Chasanet

Dining room with a view, Anse Chasanet Image: Larsen Collinge International

while some have the fourth wall entirely open. All accommodation types feature king-size beds dressed with luxe linens, electronic safes and customised furniture made with island woods such as teak, mahogany, green heart, red cedar and wild breadfruit. Bathrooms have bathrobes, slippers, hairdryers and Molton Brown amenities. www.ansechastanet.com

Image: Norbert Probst

ANSE CHASTANET

CAP MAISON

The stay: Unlike plantation-style design preferred by other resorts, this place favours Spanish haciendastyle architecture; think fountains, courtyards, arches, whitewashed

buildings and terracotta roof tiles. There’s a two-tiered pool; exciting watersports including kayaks, Hobie cat sailing, paddle boarding wind surfing and snorkelling on the house reef; and a heavenly spa and gym with cross-trainers, free weights, resistance machines, TRX equipment and more. Other facilities that make this place splurge-worthy include a handsome 14-metre “Sea Ray” luxury motor launch available privately and exclusively for guests, two excellent restaurants for West Indian and British cuisine, a walk-in wine cellar and a champagne zip line to deliver bubbly.

tropical plants surrounding the grounds. All have balconies or terraces for outdoor lounging and al fresco dining, king size beds with cool white linens, and luxurious bathrooms. For extra tranquillity, the villas, ranging from one to three bedrooms, are worth paying extra for, not least for their stainless-steel kitchens and separate living and dining areas, while some have a private pool, Jacuzzi, or roof terrace. www.capmaison.com

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The setting: High above a crescentshaped beach, this family-owned boutique is set in the grounds of Cap Estate – a 600-hectare (1,500acre) former sugar plantation near St Lucia’s northern tip. You’ll be a 90-minute drive from Hewanorra International Airport and only 10 minutes from Rodney Bay Village – a buzzy hub with a man-made lagoon, horseshoe-shaped bay and enough nightlife to satisfy. You’ll also be mere steps away from Smuggler’s Cover and just down the coast from the Pigeon Island National Landmark – one of the island’s most important monuments.

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Garden view room at Cap Maison

The rooms: Housed in eight buildings, the 49 rooms and suites delight with stylish SpanishCaribbean decor, dark cedar-wood furniture, local artworks and bright colours inspired by the Pool with a view – Cap Maison’s infinity pool and restaurant look out over the Carribean Image: Mike Toy

ST LUCIA

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plantation, everything is as sweet as you’d imagine – aquatic perks such as boating, diving and snorkelling; landscaped grounds; brilliant white sands at Sugar Beach; and the Caribbean Sea. The closest international hub is Hewanorra Airport, a 45-minute drive away.

Grand Luxury Villa at Sugar Beach

SUGAR BEACH, A VICEROY RESORT

The setting: Flanked by the twin peaks of the Pitons in 40 hectares (100 acres) of pristine rainforest, this coastal stunner makes the most of the island’s natural beauty. Set on a former 18th-century sugar

The stay: With one Piton looming to the north and the other to the south, the scenery alone is worth the price tag. Deal breakers include the rainforest spa with treehouse treatment rooms, state-of-theart gym, on-site dive centre, two floodlit tennis courts, scheduled yoga and fitness classes, watersports – windsurfing, sailing, kayaking, hobie cats and pedalos – and several bars, lounges and restaurants. The hotel runs signature excursions, including in-depth island tours, hikes on Gros Piton (allow three to four hours), visits to the Soufrière volcano and whale watching. Kayking trips to Coral Garden Reef at the Gros Piton are also available. The rooms: The 59 villas, eight beachfront bungalows and 11 sugar mill rooms dotted up the hillside have exquisite all-white decor, colonial-era design touches and private plunge pools while some have walled gardens and four-poster beds with high-thread-count Egyptian cotton linens and voile draping. Amenities include free-to-use iPads with docking stations and butlers who will assist with everything from unpacking your luggage to sorting your laundry. Beyond all the facilities you would expect of a first-rate hotel, bathrooms have magnified mirrors, bathrobes and full-sized ROIL and Natura Bisse goodies. www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com ED

London’s 10 Best Afternoon Teas London never fails to put on a great afternoon tea, the ritual started by the 7th Duchess of Bedford in the early 1800s. Here’s our roundup of the city’s crème de la crème, where you can devour liberal sprinklings of jazzed-up scones and finger sandwiches, writes Michelle Dunn

The Wolseley The Setting: A much-cherished institution that combines British heritage with European glamour, London’s first grand cafe opened its doors in 2003 (the building was formerly a car showroom for Wolseley Motors Limited in the 1920s). Ticking the boxes for A-listers and high flyers who like things decadent and divine, it wows with culinary excellence, efficient service and grandiose decor in blacks, creams and golds. Reservations are recommended, but there are tables for walk-ins.

Afternoon Tea (£40) comes with a glass of Pommery Brut Royal NV. The patisseries are also exceptional, The Menu: While the Cream Tea especially the eclairs (chocolate, lemon (£12.75) satisfies sweet cravings with handmade fruit scones along with jam meringue, caramelised banana), the and clotted cream and a choice of teas, dark chocolate orange truffle torte and the signature Wolseley Battenberg. the Classic Afternoon Tea (£29.75) ups the ante with all the basics plus 160 Piccadilly, London W1J 9EB scrumptious finger sandwiches. For www.thewolseley.com deeper pockets, the Champagne This image and above, Grandeur at the Wolseley

Image: Simon Brown

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The Lanesborough

The setting: This timeless Knightsbridge treasure overlooking leafy Hyde Park serves afternoon tea in two classy dining spaces. The majestic Michelin-starred Céleste has a domed glass roof, softly-lit chandeliers and resident pianist while the elegant Withdrawing Room comes with gold foiling and hand-painted trompe l’oeil marbling. Complete with attentive service from tea sommeliers, both do posh without pretension, although you are required to scrub up well – jackets for gents. The menu: The Themed Afternoon Tea (£56) includes freshly-baked scones with hefty dollops of velvety Devonshire clotted cream and homemade fresh fruit preserves,

Afternoon tea at Browns Image: Janos Grapow

handcrafted pastries and traditional British heritage cake. There are also finger sandwiches including egg mimosa, salmon and yuzu, cucumber and lovage, coronation chicken, comté and onion compote and blow-thediet cakes such as pine nut tart, soft cotton cheesecake and blackberry bauble. If you’ve cancelled meetings for the rest of the day, wash everything down with a couple of glasses of Irroy champagne. Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA www.oetkercollection.com

Browns

The setting: Founded by Lord Byron’s former butler in 1837, Browns has always had a roll call of impressive guests – it was where Alexander Graham Bell made the first ever telephone call. Nearly two centuries later it pulls in the crowds for its award winning English Tea Room – a beautiful wood-panelled space with antique fireplaces, a Jacobean detailed plaster ceiling, fashionable fabrics, contemporary artworks and Paul Smith floor lamps.

taking your seat at a school-style desk and choosing from loose-leaf tea, coffee or pumpkin juice. The tea itself includes sandwiches – roast chicken dinner, honey roasted ham or ploughman’s; miniature yorkshire puddings with roast beef and horseradish; and creamy leek and potato pie. For sweet treats there are rock cakes with clotted cream and homemade jam; knickerbocker glories; and Cutter and Squidge’s famous Butterscotch Biskie.

The menu: The Standard Afternoon Tea (£49.50) is a two-hour experience that requires donning a black cloak,

20 Brewer St, London W1F 0SJ www.cutterandsquidge.com

33 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4BP www.roccofortehotels.com

Cutter & Squidge

Image: Colette Smith

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The setting: It has no affiliation with JK Rowling, but once you venture underground into the Harry Potteresque Potion Room at this Soho concept bakery it’s all waving wands and bubbling cauldrons inspired by the magical world of witches and wizards. Served by a “potions teacher” who remains charmingly in character throughout, you’ll be surrounded by all manner of beakers, test tubes, mysterious concoctions, fascinating edible surprises and sugar highs.

The menu: The fabled Traditional Afternoon Tea (£55) offers a choice of 17 teas (including Browns’ own blend), finger sandwiches on white, brown, malt or onion bread and freshly baked plain and sultana scones served with homemade strawberry jam and Cornish clotted cream. There are also tempting cakes such as the pear and lemon eclair, pineapple and valrhona dark chocolate tart and white chocolate mousse with blood orange jelly. For those on a health kick the Tee-Tox (£55) comes with gluten-free options, seasonal fruits and far fewer calories.

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The Zetter Townhouse Marylebone The setting: A nod from Vogue as one of the best afternoon teas in London has given this oh-so-trendy Georgian townhouse even more kudos. Named for the hotel’s fictitious owner, Seymour’s Parlour is just like your front room – only posher. Inspired by Sir John Soane’s architectural

collection, you can expect deep velvet sofas, wine-red walls, antique wooden tables, walls adorned with frames, and trinkets, curios and objects d’art everywhere you look. The menu: You can choose from two tea menus, both at £35.50. Order Aunt Wilhelmina’s with finger sandwiches of honey roast ham, smoked chicken, smoked salmon and cream cheese, or egg mayonnaise; or Uncle Seymour’s with signature pastry, free-range devilled egg, truffled sausage roll and mini croque

Sketch London

The setting: Probably one of London’s quirkiest venues, this playful threestory Georgian townhouse turned restaurant to the stars continually grabs headlines for its Michelinstarred cuisine, eye-popping artworks by Turner Prize winner David Shrigley and Instagrammable loos. For afternoon tea bliss, the fun

begins in the Gallery – a powderypink space with velvet chairs, quirky crockery, outstanding service and a groundbreaking selection of yummy treats. The menu: The Classic Afternoon Tea (£59) and the Champagne Tea (£73) are the perfect sweet and savoury combos. Served in triple-layered towers, there are finger sandwiches of

monsieur. Both are accompanied by freshly-baked plain and raisin scones with Cornish clotted cream and strawberry jam, a selection of cakes and pots of English breakfast tea, Earl Grey, or herbal infusions such as peppermint or lemongrass. 28-30 Seymour Street, London W1H 7JB www.thezettertownhouse.com

salmon and Jacob’s cream; coronation free-range chicken; cucumber and ricotta; foie gras tartelette; and eggs truffle gougère. Warm sultana or plain scones are served with Cornish clotted cream and strawberry or poppy jam and too-pretty-to-eat petits gateaux. Leave room for Victoria sponge cake from the trolley. Should you fancy second (or third) helpings, there are no restrictions. 9 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XG www.sketch.london

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Ham Yard Hotel

The setting: Compete with a 1950s-inspired bowling alley, cinema room, serene spa and rooftop garden, interior designer and co-owner Kit Kemp’s bold and beautiful Piccadilly hotel is one of Soho’s go-to spots for a chic cuppa. Afternoon tea is served in the glass-ceilinged Orangery – a light and airy space with a sandstone fireplace, comfy sofas and Kemp’s eclectic handpicked works of art. Unlike at many of its competitors, the Ham Yard’s menu changes weekly.

The menu: Presented on Wedgwood bone china from Kemp’s own Mythical Creatures collection, the Ham Yard’s Afternoon Tea (£22) includes a selection of savouries – sliders, flatbreads, toast; a commendable assortment of cakes; and scones with clotted cream and preserves. Alternatively, order the Healthy Afternoon Tea with reduced sugar and gluten-free or vegan options. Both varieties offer a choice of hot chocolate, coffee, breakfast tea, Earl Grey, Darjeeling and herbal infusions. Seasonal cocktails are available. 1 Ham Yard, London W1D 7DT www.firmdalehotels.com

The Ham Yard Image: Simon Brown

Fortnum & Mason The setting: Fortnum’s has been serving tea since 1707, so they know a thing or two about the perfect brew. The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, opened by the Queen in 2012 to mark the 60th anniversary of her accession, is a divine setting complete with Georgian-inspired furnishings, shades of duck egg blue, crisp white, turquoise and pale green, a grand piano, seriously comfortable chairs and tables that thankfully aren’t on top of each other.

181 Piccadilly, London W1A 1ER www.fortnumandmason.com

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The menu: Served with Fortnum’s Famous Blends (£52.50) or Rare Tea (£56.50), you can enjoy finger sandwiches of rare breed hen’s egg

mayonnaise with English cress; cucumber with mint cream cheese; Suffolk ham with English mustard; Fortnum’s smoked salmon with tartare dressing; or coronation chicken. Plain and fruit scones come with clotted cream, strawberry jam and lemon curd and there are patisseries from the cake carriage. If you’re flying solo, a special Tea for One menu is available from Monday to Saturday between 3pm and 4:30pm.

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Millie’s Lounge at The Ned

The setting: Opulent surroundings are to be expected at this £200m hipster hotel and members’ club opened in 2012 by Nick Jones, founder of Soho House. The building’s vintage-style Millie’s Lounge is no exception, making it a glorious setting for afternoon tea. Set in the southwest corner of the main atrium, this cosy space has velvet armchairs, low tables, soaring emerald-green pillars, softpink booths and bespoke Burleigh china tea sets. The menu: Afternoon tea (£30) includes cakes, buttery scones with seasonal jam and clotted cream, and a selection of perfectly-made finger sandwiches that can be replenished on request. A glass of Perrier-Jouët NV Champagne is an extra tenner and other add-ons include a great selection of English sparkling wines, craft ales and seasonal cocktails. Don’t leave without trying a slice of the amazing Battenberg cake washed down with a cup of tea poured from a green and white pot. The full Burleigh range is available to buy at Soho Home. 27 Poultry, London EC2R 8AJ www.thened.com Millies Lounge Image: Simon Brown

The Goring

The setting: Adored by the royals – the Duchess of Cambridge famously stayed here the night before her wedding, London’s only five-star family-owned and managed hotel is as close to Buckingham Palace as you can get. Afternoon tea is served in The Dining Room, a stunning space where you can down unlimited cups of tea while admiring the regal decor – Swarovski chandeliers, heavy gold curtains and an open fire for the winter months. The menu: As holder of The British Tea Guild Council’s Top London Afternoon Tea Award and Award of Excellence, the food and drinks live up to expectation. Afternoon Tea (from £50) includes a seasonal and ever-

changing menu of finger sandwiches, scones with fruity homemade jams and Devonshire clotted cream, highquality tea blends brewed to your liking and cakes, bakes, fancies and tarts. For more indulgence, add Bollinger Special Cuvée Champagne or Bollinger Rosé Champagne – both come with sweet handpicked strawberries. 15 Beeston Place, Westminster, London SW1W 0JW www.thegoring.com ED Image: David Cotsworth

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MOROCCO

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Mint tea is a ubiquitous part of Moroccan culture

Morocco, where Africa’s Atlantic coast meets the Mediterranean, derives its name from al-maġhrib (‫)ةيبرغملا ةكلمملا‬, meaning the kingdom of the west or place the sun sets. With camel rides and luxury camping in the golden sands of the Sahara, this is an apt name. The country has had a wide range of cultural influences over the centuries, with Arab-Berber being the predominant in the modern day. However, the Romans, Sephardi Jews, French, Spanish and sub-Saharan Africans have all left their mark. In the current day, the most evident foreign influence in Morocco is French, due to the country’s colonial ties. The French have left their mark on business, leisure and culture, making some grasp of French very useful, whether for reading menus or undertaking negotiations. Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé had close ties to the country and spent time at their Marrakech retreat, the Jardin Majorelle, for many years, from 1980 until the designer’s death in 2008. The Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent exists to preserve their physical legacy; organise exhibitions and events and to promote education and culture. Among other things, it runs the one-hectare (two-and-a-half-acre) Majorelle Garden, containing the Islamic Art Museum of Marrakech, the Berber Museum and adjacent, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent. Focusing mainly on Marrakech and the surrounding area, we take a trip into the Atlas Mountains and nearby Atalay desert, showcase companies running luxury Sahara tours and review the exclusive Jnane Tamsna boutique hotel. ED

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Berber business Atlas and Sahara Tours is a familyrun business offering a wide range of adventures in the mountains, deserts and surrounding cities and sea in Morocco. The company operates out of Marrakech but its heart is in the Berber villages of the High Atlas mountains, where its associated hotel, Riad Jnane Imlil lies just below the highest mountain in north Africa, Jebel Toubkal, in the village of Imlil, 65km south of the city. If you are a star-gazer, here is the place to luxuriate in the sharpest, brightest views of the Milky Way against a background of the deepest black night skies. Working together, the two companies offer single and multiday private tours such as trekking, mountain bike excursions and overnight desert tours which include camel riding and staying in luxury desert camps. In the winter,

excursions include ski treks of up to eight days, taking in mount Toubkal and the highest ski resort in Africa, Oukaimeden at 2,600 metres. Atlas and Sahara Tours can source all necessary equipment for your tour and the company is able to advise individuals on which options suit them best. The company can arrange transport from the city of Marrakech and its international airport. The company offers guided light walks around the valley, which can include cultural outings to Berber villages where guests have the opportunity to drink the local mint tea and eat lunch with the residents. The ascent of the 4,167-metre mount Toubkal is usually done over the course of three days although it is possible to complete it in two. The mountain itself is a non-technical but moderately difficult climb in summer,

requiring sturdy boots and warm, wind and waterproof layers. Hiking poles are also useful on the scree. In winter and spring, crampons and an ice axe are necessary and the latter may still be needed in early summer. Atlas and Sahara Tours and Riad Jnane Imlil’s ethos is epitomised by the fact that they are family businesses employing people from the local community, everyone being from Imlil and the surrounding villages. Mohammed and Mustafa run the business along with a number of other family members including their uncle, Omar, the chef, who worked at the prestigious Zalagh Kasbah luxury hotel and spa for 16 years. “Our business is based on local knowledge,” says Mustafa. “All of our guides are local, experienced and highly skilled. Because we live here, we walk here all the time, we know the summits, it’s our world and we love it. “We always clarify things before people take a booking because we don’t want them to make a wrong decision. If you are not satisfied or not happy, it hurts us as much as it hurts you – we don’t want people to be unsatisfied.” With ever increasing numbers of tourists taking advantage of lavish tours in the Sahara desert, Atlas and Sahara Tours has plans to extend its luxury excursions into new locations where there are currently no camps, offering a unique experience to the more adventurous traveller. atlasandsaharatours@gmail.com www.atlasandsaharatours.com ED

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Berber hospitality is to be found in the Agafay desert Image: Toby Wilsdon

From Atlas to Agafay On the doorstep of Marrakech, the Atlas Mountains are a popular tourist destination. Attractions include camel riding; local crafts and cuisine; hiking and for the more adventurous, climbing the highest mountain in north Africa, writes Toby Wilsdon It is eight in the morning and my wife and I are waiting at our hotel in the Marrakech medina to be picked up for a chauffeur-driven excursion. Our driver easily finds us in the labyrinthine lanes of the medina and takes us to the luxury Toyota Land Cruiser that will convey us to the Atlas mountains and Agafay desert. We are visiting at new year and at this time the difference in temperature between day and night can be significant. It is a little chilly outside and will remain so for a few hours so we are glad when our driver shepherds us to the comfort of the

SUV, opens the doors for us and we get on our way. There is naturally quite an industry in Atlas tours out of Marrakech and it would be impossible to say which is the best, however Astara Tours, the small operation we have chosen, does come highly recommended. The company, whose name has the double meaning of a musical or literary segue and an extended journey, is owned and run by Omar, a Berber who was born in the Sidi Fares Valley not far from Imlil. After completing his university degrees, he returned to his roots and set up a business leading bespoke tours in the Atlas mountains and Sahara desert. We drive from the city to the base of the mountains, which seem to rise almost directly out of the plain, and almost immediately we stop across the valley from a Berber village called

Tahenaout, where our guide points out the architectural features of the houses clinging to the hillside and explains the terraced agriculture. The village had been there for at least 300 years, he says, telling us that before that time the Berbers had been mostly nomadic. Across the road is an artisan centre where the Moroccan speciality argan oil made from the nuts of the tree of the same name is on sale. Inside, a line of women sit carrying out various parts of the extraction process. It’s a lucrative business, with the precious oil selling for as much as £500 per litre. Once we have had the oil extraction process explained, the owner ushers us up to the roof to be served with the ubiquitous mint tea and bread dipped in oil. Niceties completed, we rejoin the Land Cruiser and make our way to our next point of call, beneath Moulay Brahim, where we have the opportunity to ride horses or camels. Having previously ridden a camel (albeit the Asian Bactrian variety) but never ridden a horse, we choose the latter. I’m a little unsteady at first, feeling that perhaps I’m not a natural. Omar is well in control of the horses, which must have had riders far more apprehensive than me. For 40 minutes he leads us up the valley on tracks close to the river, through apple orchards and olive groves which, at 1,150 metres above sea level, are still productive. Eventually, it is time to cross the river and return to the road, whereupon our guide urges our steady mounts to clamber down the banks and cross the rocky riverbed through fast-flowing water to where our transport awaits.

‘We are ushered to the roof and served mint tea’

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A couple of minutes down the road is the market town of Asni, where people from the surrounding valleys coalesce once a week to procure those items not available higher in the mountains. Taking the left turn towards Imlil, we decide to move quite rapidly, stopping only for a few stunning photo opportunities both directly up the valley floor and panoramas taken from where the road rises high above the river. Skipping Astara Tours’ regular two-hour hike due to pressure of time, we drive directly to the village of Aroumd, to eat a traditional, home cooked Berber lunch. As the route to the village becomes a steep unmetalled road, the Land Cruiser is surefooted and inspires confidence. As an appetiser, we are again offered mint tea, and flat bread with olives and oil. From the roof where we are served, we see far across the valley. Following the entrée, we eat the regular local tagine (vegetable in my case, lamb for my wife) with salad as a main course followed by a wide array of fruit. Omar is clearly proud of his Berber heritage and the landscape he was born into. As we eat, he describes Berber culture, history and architecture. Leaving us for a while, he makes a business call – despite its remote location, at 2,000 metres above sea level the 4G signal was actually better than in my home, in a medium sized town in south east England. Having eaten we return to the SUV for the next part of our day. After descending to Asni, we take the turning to Moulay Brahim, diverging from our earlier route into the mountains. We are heading for Lalla Takerkoust, a town and reservoir of the same name between the Atlas Mountains and the Agafay Desert. Passing the lake, we turn directly off the road onto one of the many rough

desert tracks. Unlike the Sahara, the Agafay is a stony desert that comes to life with a carpet of flowers in the spring. For the autumn and winter, however, it is desolate, crisscrossed with paths made by quad bikes and SUVs. Our Land Cruiser takes the terrain in its stride, climbing gradients that feel incredibly steep – the five-litre vehicle has a maximum rated climb of 42 degrees, although the inclines were probably a little way off that. Sitting in the back, only able to see sky, I feel complete confidence in our driver and the vehicle to negotiate the slopes. Late in the afternoon we come to an encampment from where quad bike parties are setting off. We are served mint tea once more by a local man dressed in bold colours, who seems to be in charge of the operation. An open sided tent for pre-ride briefings stands to one side, while we sit around a wooden table where the tea is served. Behind us is a large clay oven which, we’re told, can bake an entire sheep. At this point, Omar suggests we round off our day by driving to high

ground from where we can watch the sun set. We return to the Land Cruiser, which expertly crawls up and then down a few steep mounds before coming to a plateau with a scattering of cairns and a fantastic vista. In the distance are luxury camping settlements that cater to every need of those seeking both comfort and adventure. The four of us sit in the meditative silence as the sun sinks behind the horizon and it’s no hyperbole to describe it as a magical moment. With the sun set, we cross the remainder of the desert and return to the metalled road leading back to Marrakech. My wife and I had set out in the morning not entirely sure what to expect. At the end of the day, we’d had a fantastic experience that was a mixture of relaxation and exertion, exposure to local culture and natural beauty and effortless luxury transport. The personal service provided by Omar couldn’t have been better and we parted back in Marrakech feeling like friends who would be welcome to return. ED

‘Quad bikes set off from a desert encampment’

A Berber village clings to the hillside beneath mount Toubkal

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C U LT U R E W I S E

Morocco Business Culture

Morocco has benefitted from its proximity to Europe and relatively low labour costs to work towards building a diverse, open, market-oriented economy. Key sectors include food, tourism, aerospace, automotive, phosphates, textiles, apparel and subcomponents. A diverse mixture of Arabic, Islamic, Berber and French cultural influences impacts on business etiquette, business practices and business culture in Morocco. Morocco’s status as a former French protectorate meant that many of its business practices are based on the French system. French civil servants, colonists and the French government promoted economic development, particularly the exploitation of Morocco’s mineral wealth, the creation of a modern transport system and the development of an agriculture sector geared to the French market. French is often required in negotiations and you may need to recruit a reliable interpreter to get things done. Social class is very important and people are respected if they are wealthy or happen to be related to those with powerful positions. Class can affect the hiring process – it is difficult to not give a good position to someone who comes with connections to a high profile family. Strong hierarchy and close personal relationships are the key characteristics of Moroccan business culture. Decision-making is often top-down and employee participation is limited in comparison with northern Europe. Junior employees may be consulted, although senior managers usually have the sole responsibility for the ultimate decision. Decisions are rarely reached quickly and may require several rounds of negotiations. Moroccans, even those with a network of global business contacts and experience, can be reluctant

MOROCCO to do business with individuals or companies they do not know. Consequently, personal relationships play an important role in selling to Moroccan customers and it’s important to make a good impression. During a first meeting, Moroccan partners may ask questions that Europeans feel are personal or irrelevant. This allows them to gauge your status, education and how connected you are with people they may know or respect. Moroccan business contacts have a looser sense of time than in most western countries. Moroccans are often late for meetings by up to 30 minutes. Nevertheless, your arriving on time to meetings is important even though you may be kept waiting. Build in an expectation that partners may not arrive on time and find other work to do while waiting. Agendas are rarely timed in advance and meetings can start and end much later than scheduled. Saving face is important and Moroccans are likely to play down any disagreements in negotiations. If you are not getting the clarity you need, double check and look for subtle references to disagreements or problems. Hard selling and confrontation are not good approaches. More than 90 per cent of Moroccans are Muslim. There are devout Muslims who never miss a prayer session and there are non-practising Muslims who drink alcohol and do not follow all the practices of the religion. It is important to show deference and respect to the principles of Islam, whoever your Moroccan business contact is. Most Moroccan Muslims observe the month of Ramadan, which means they may be quite tired during working days at that time. You are expected to respect all the people you come across who are fasting; smoking, drinking or eating in public or on public transport may provoke a very negative reaction. Some Muslims will avoid shaking hands with someone of the opposite sex. In that case, a nod and a smile will do instead. Moroccan business partners may invite you to dinner either at their home or in a restaurant. In both cases, it is important to dress smartly and build rapport with everyone at the table. If invited to dinner at a private home, take off your shoes and greet everyone. Avoid eating with your left hand. Dining can be done around a communal plate. If that is the case eat from the portion of the plate closest to you. ED

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Meryanne’s Moroccan retreat

Meryanne Loum-Martin

MOROCCO Meryanne Loum-Martin has been serving discerning guests in and around Marrakech since the late 1980s, graduating from private villas to the gorgeous boutique hotel, Jnane Tamsna. She tells Toby Wilsdon of her journey from Parisian barrister and winner of the prestigious Prix des Secrétaires de la Conférence, to Moroccan boutique hotelier “My passion has always been in architecture and design,” Meryanne says. “It was Morocco that gave me the opportunity to do what I love. It opened a whole path for me and I realised that there was something other than being a stressed lawyer in Paris.” Imagination, optimism of spirit and determination, were key to making the change. “People thought I was nuts because it was going very well for me in Paris as a lawyer. But I never thought it was impossible. It didn’t even cross my mind.” When she first came to Morocco, it was as a visitor, however, looking for a holiday home for her parents. This developed into the private villa, Dar Tamsna, meaning House of Tamsna, the local village. “I was creating beautiful houses to rent with a cultural experience. You had a sense of the extraordinary culture of Morocco when you entered my first properties. That is why people loved it so much. “To my astonishment, the house was published in magazines, all around the world,” she says. These included The Wall Street Journal, Architectural Digest, French, Italian, British and German Vogue, Condé Nast Traveller, Elle Decor and Coté Sud.

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boutique hotel designed and furnished by her, set in gardens following her husband’s principles of ecological and cultural sustainability. The site for Jnane Tamsna was carefully chosen. “My husband’s an ethno-botanist – a mix of anthropology, ethnology and botany – so we needed space where we could create a beautiful garden. “We would visit plots and Gary would tell me, for example, ‘We’re not buying this because if this plant is growing here that means there’s salt in the earth and we will never be able to have the kind of garden we want.” Loum-Martin waxes lyrical about how they came to their chosen site. “I always loved the Palmeraie. It looked like a biblical image with only dirt roads. “There were regal old palm trees in the middle of an extraordinary oasis; earth villages with shepherds and their sheep and fields of alfalfa, looking much greener than now. “When we found this plot we fell in love with it because it’s not flat, you can walk up and down on the property. It had the most beautiful palm trees, the largest density of palm trees we’d seen.” With the Tamsna brand well established, Loum-Martin and her husband had always planned to call their oasis hotel Jnane Tamsna, meaning big garden Tamsna. When they registered their purchase, the notary asked them what they would be calling it. They gave their chosen name and he said, “That is what it has been called forever.”

“Serendipity doesn’t get any better than that,” Loum-Martin says. Building of Jnane Tamsna began in earnest on 6 January 2001 and was completed in 11 months and three weeks. “The last three weeks were key,” says Loum-Martin. “It went from a finished shell to a house with a soul. “My vision was clear from day one. I started working on textiles, designing furniture and buying everything I needed. “I did the floorplans myself, I designed everything, so I knew, this room would be like this and that room would be decorated in that colour. “It’s the difference between an empty shell and a house lived in, with books and paintings and everything.” Loum-Martin’s design philosophy is similar to that of her husband in the garden. “The biggest compliment is when people say, ‘When did you restore the house?’ They think I bought an old house and restored it, but I built it from scratch.” Similarly, she says her husband feels most satisfied when Moroccan people visit and say it reminds them of their grandparents’ garden. “Then he feels, ‘OK, I really got it,’” she says. What exactly is the attraction of Jnane Tamsna, I ask her. “We are only 20 minutes from the gorgeous, exotic chaos of the Medina, with all the hustle and bustle. But what can you hear? The birdsong and a lone call to prayer. You have all these trees and you can walk in the garden. There’s a sense of freedom.”

‘I always loved the Palmeraie, it looked like a biblical image with only dirt roads’

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The rich and famous soon flocked to her properties, to the extent that she had to turn world famous movie stars away when fully booked. One of the biggest names who visited was Giorgio Armani. “I’d always heard that he was a demanding person, because his taste was so exquisite. When he came the first time I thought, ‘I hope he will like it.’ And he just loved it.” The word spread and with visitors from the worlds of fashion, show business and royalty Loum-Martin says, “I realised I had created a place that matched the fantasy people had about Marrakech. “Back then you only had big hotels and big hotels cannot give a cultural experience. You cannot cater to a guest in room number 154 the same way as if he is part of a tiny group.” Following the success of Dar Tamsna, Loum-Martin decided to open a concept store in Marrakech’s walled city, the Medina. The name was derived from Riad – meaning a traditional house with internal courtyard or garden – plus the now established brand, Tamsna. “It was like visiting an extraordinary house, but each room was a shop in itself. In the sitting room all the furniture and the paintings were for sale; in the library all the books were for sale; in the bedroom all the home accessories were for sale; in the dressing room all the clothes were for sale. I designed all the objects that were there.” The shop too had glowing media coverage. “I had the front cover of Departures, the Amex Gold and Platinum card magazine. It was titled ‘The Essence of Chic Marrakech’.” By now well established in Morocco, Loum-Martin and her husband, Dr Gary Martin, decided to pursue their dream – a luxury

MOROCCO

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“When you’re in a hotel, even the most beautiful hotel, your only personal space is your room. As soon as you get out of your room, you’re in a corridor. This distinction is embodied in Jnane Tamsna’s drawing room. Other hotels may use the word lounge, but drawing room somehow seems more appropriate in this case. “The spirit of the drawing room is that it is a place to withdraw; with a fire, soft furnishings, books and magazines available on the shelves and drinks from a bar,” says Loum-Martin. The bar owes more to an extensive domestic drinks cabinet than anything you’d find in a saloon or pub. She sums up the ambience, saying, “It’s about having a country house in Marrakech.” The couple are now deeply embedded in Marrakech but despite her emphasis on local influences she is determined to create objects that cannot be found elsewhere – whether high end store or in the souk. Inspiration and transformation are key. Loum-Martin and her husband are passionate about making a positive impact on the city and treating its heritage with due respect. She speaks warmly about the influence that British travellers have had. “Vanessa Branson, for example, brought an incredible cultural energy

to the city by creating an art Biennale, which I had the honour to be a board member on. By bringing a buzz, it was not just about enjoying yourself but about building things for the city and attracting more people.” It’s not just the British. The most famous immigrants to Marrakech must be Loum-Martin’s compatriots, Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé. “I will be eternally grateful to Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé,” she says. “Their legacy is enormous and through the foundation, it will continue. The number of things it supports, that people wouldn’t even know about, it’s extraordinary. “Yves Saint Laurent constantly paid tribute to his cultural and ethnic inspirations, whereas there are other designers who just steal ideas from indigenous people. They never pay tribute to anything, they don’t even build a school. “Maybe it’s my background as a lawyer, but I think it’s just a matter of fairness. If you’re going to make money out of ideas that don’t belong to you, you should share the profits.” Home-from-home luxury, design, culture, justice and sustainability; these values sum up the Tamsna approach. ED

Jnane Tamsna’s homely drawing room, with log fire, drinks-cabinet-style bar and library

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Jnane Tamsna experienced

Toby Wilsdon reviews Meryanne’s boutique palm grove hotel

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Twenty minutes’ drive from the city of Marrakech, away from the hustle and bustle of the Medina, lies the 14,000-hectare (34,600-acre) Palmeraie oasis, with its 100,000 date palms and olive groves. Set amidst a biblical scene of dirt roads and palm trees is the walled compound containing boutique hotel Jnane Tamsna and its threeand-a-half-hectare organic botanical gardens, from which much of the fruit and vegetables are sourced. The hotel is frequented by figures from the global elite of the worlds of fashion, the arts, finance, Hollywood and those

on more down-to-earth incomes who simply prioritise spending their money on luxury. Its semiremote location makes it perfect for those seeking sanctuary from the stress of their high pressure lives, or simply an oasis of calm in contrast to the “gorgeous, exotic chaos” of the city. We arrive mid-afternoon and are greeted by the helpful and courteous staff before being introduced to the owner, Meryanne Loum-Martin, interviewed on page 68. After a quick chat we are shown to our accommodation, one of the garden rooms, with veranda and west African inspired decor. Entrance is through the traditional “wicket door” within a door common in

MOROCCO

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Morocco, closed by a padlock. The room has all the features you would expect including two sofas, armchairs, desk, writing paper, digital safe and air conditioning. Further down the list of essentials, but finishing it off nicely is a real fire for Morocco’s cooler winter months. The bedroom and bathroom walls are finished in the traditional, waterproof lime plaster called tadelakt, which has excellent thermal properties for both winter and summer, as well as being durable enough to be formed into curves, washbasins, shower units and work surfaces. Having settled in, we make our way to the drawing room, a gorgeous space with book-lined walls, a roaring log fire and a combination of armchairs, chaises longues and sofas, including one recessed into a high arch. Guests are relaxing before dinner and whereas some wish to quietly read a book – of their own or borrowed from the shelves – others are keen to talk about their time in Marrakech and broader topics of conversation. There is a bar akin to a domestic drinks cabinet on the wall and we are soon served by an attentive member of staff, all charged direct to the room, accentuating the relaxed luxury home from home feel. Dinner is a set menu – as one would be served at a private dinner party – all cooked by Jnane Tamsna’s chef, Bahija Lafridi, who is very personable and has been on television in countries such as the US, UK, Germany and France. The quality of the ingredients is superb, hardly surprising since many of the vegetables are grown to high botanical standards on site. The main course is relatively simple, relying on these top-quality ingredients, cooked to perfection and assembled in a subtle way.

We have a Moroccan cooking class with the chef scheduled for 12 o’clock so I decide to take a walk outside the complex beforehand to get a sense of space. For myself, this was the one let-down. If you’re someone who likes to explore and interact with what is beyond the immediate horizon or compound wall, you may find the hotel a little isolated. Of course, you can go for walks in the Palmeraie or take taxis to restaurants at nearby resorts but there is little of human interest within short walking distance. Having established this, I return to Jnane Tamsna (a little late) and find my wife and Bahija waiting patiently in the garden. Laid out on a long table are a couple of tagines, earthenware pots with conical lids sitting on a charcoal fire. Next to these is a bowl with the washed vegetables, pots containing spices and oils and for my wife, the pre-prepared fish under cover. We are taken methodically through the process, adding the vegetables, spices and fish in the correct order before replacing the lid and leaving

it to stew until done. Finally, we are led to our dining table in the shade of the palm trees and presented with the finished dish. After lunch there is just time for my interview with co-founder Meryanne Loum-Martin (page 68) before we take a taxi back to what she describes as “the gorgeous chaos of the Medina”. ED Bahija Lafridi, Jnane Tamsna’s chef taking the cooking class Image: Toby Wilsdon

One of Jnane Tamsna’s five pools Image: William Carey

ADVENTURE

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2001 a bike odyssey In June 2001, Toby Wilsdon set out on a cycle odyssey, crossing Europe, Siberia and China to Singapore, then the farthest and most southerly point possible to ride to on the Eurasian continent. With four complete strangers, he undertook a journey that was both remarkable and a simple choice open to most reasonably fit people. We pick up as Rory discovers on the Ukrainian border that his visa is not valid

Rory was getting ready to make a phone call to Victor, a new friend we’d made in Chisinau. All the while, we’d been sitting trying to forge a plan. Would Rory head back to the capital alone in the hopes of getting a new Ukrainian visa? Just as Rory was preparing to make his ‘statutory call’, the Transdniestrians seemed to have a change of heart. They’d been making phone calls of their own and, out of the blue, they said, “Go,” and waved us through to take our chances on the other side. Perhaps the Ukrainian guards would be expecting us and deem

to let us through if they happened to be in a good mood. This time we were prepared. We carefully arranged our passports with Andy and my burgundy UK passports on top. Rory’s, a third British passport, came third and Scott’s blue US passport came last, inviting the guards to flip past Rory’s, onto the more interesting American one lurking at the bottom. There was no acknowledgement of the issue when we got there, although the guards did show a subtle interest in our watches. We played dumb, hoping the situation would work its way out. The border guards were friendly and were delighted when Scott offered to swap his watch for one of their Soviet-issue timepieces. Remarkably, we were soon on our way. Later, a young man we got to know would say that the guards would have been amazed not to have found a collection of dollar bills slipped into our passports. Playing dumb had done the trick and we were in Ukraine, on the road to Odessa.

All images: Toby Wilsdon

The cyclists reach Donetsk Oblast (Donetsk region); Ukraine. Left to right: Toby Wilsdon, Rory James, Scott Zentack, Andy Ganner

Washing in a canal; Ukraine. Left to right: Scott Zentack, Rory James

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closer inspection of the crumbling concrete meant even an overconfident cyclist was not keen to hang around. Instead, Andy went out to find a little liquid refreshment. When Rory and I found him, refreshed, in the park later, he was drinking Ukrainian ‘champagne’ and claiming it was up there with the best in the world. We continued across southern Ukraine, skirting north of the Berezan estuary towards Mykolaiv. The heat was becoming suffocating again, at times reaching the mid 40s, and in the middle of the day we sought refuge in any way we could. One day, close to a minor settlement, this came by way of an abandoned cinema, like so many places, frozen in time on the day the doors last closed. After eating our regular bread and cheese lunch, we ventured inside and found it littered with strips of film, like a cutting room floor. Holding one to the light, we could tell nothing more than that the film had some military element, with a Soviet officer standing to attention. Ten years after the demise of the Soviet Union, statues of Lenin were

still common and it was in Ukraine that we first came across some serious Soviet hardware. At the side of the road was a Mig 17 fighter jet, pointing skyward on a star-shaped plinth and begging to be climbed over. The shade of its wings seemed a perfect place to eat and take stock. Before long we were joined by a wiry old man who appeared to be wending his way between towns with a dog in tow. With no language in common, we made the usual small talk using select monosyllables, hand gestures and maps before he continued on his way. The intense heat was taking its toll on me once again and I was overcompensating with short term sugar highs and their associated lows. We’d been supercharging ourselves on litres of Pepsi ‘sugarwater’ and Snickers bars but I was now slowing the others down. It was affecting their attitude and mine. Returning from the necessary ‘walk in the woods’ when we camped one night, I overheard someone say, “He has a bad attitude,” and “He thinks the world is out to get him.” Perhaps

∧

It was July, the weather was hot and the trucking routes we rode were littered with corn from the recently collected harvest. The roadkill we encountered had differed from place to place and in Ukraine it was mostly birds that had swept down to feed off the sun-warped tarmac. It was not too far to Odessa, the Russian imperial city founded by Catherine the Great in 1794. We rolled into town in the late evening, navigating via the train tracks that could only lead to the centre. Looking for a hotel where we could recharge, repair our bikes and wash ourselves and our clothes, we found a classic, the Hotel Spartak. What had once been an opulent, imperial hotel had now seen better days – as had many of the buildings we saw in the former Soviet Union. We hauled our bikes up three flights of stairs and into our spacious rooms, which had tall windows and small balconies. These were not meant to be used. Unconcerned, Andy was the first to force the window and climb out onto the balcony, though

A Soviet Mig 17 fighter; Ukraine

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I did – I certainly felt surplus to decision making regarding targets and cafe stops. Feeling physically weak and emotionally frail, I cooked up my instant noodles but spilt them on the ground as I prepared to eat. Miserable, I went to bed. We were approaching the Russian border so, with Rory in the country illegally, we were anticipating trouble. We stopped at a cafe close to the frontier and discussed what to do if the Ukrainians spotted that his visa was out of date. We rehearsed our mock surprised looks and passport order from the other side of the country. When we reached the border, we handed in our documents and the Ukrainian guards disappeared off into another room – more than a just cursory glance then. When they returned, the officials’ response was curt. “James, Rory. Problem.” We crowded round and feigned surprise yet again. “We were stamped in, couldn’t you just let us go through?” we asked. They said firmly, “No. Trouble.”

Then they asked what our bikes were worth, were we carrying any dollars and would we like to change any at a ‘special’ rate? We stonewalled and they wandered off, presumably to call Kiev, refer to rulebooks, consult superiors. After about an hour they finally returned and said simply, “Go.” No bribes, nothing. The Russian side was relatively simple, all visas correct this time. I was not overly sorry to see the back of Ukraine. The heat had been demanding and the landscape relatively monotonous, though the people were as friendly and welcoming as everywhere else. After our celebratory border beer, we made our way to find somewhere to camp. Coming over the top of a hill, we were greeted by a remarkable sight. An enormous factory complex was silhouetted against the evening sky, looking like something out of a science fiction dystopia such as Blade Runner. The complex filled the vista, churning out smoke and turning the sky a deep red. It only revealed its

The Gerhardt Mill at dawn, memorial to the Battle of Stalingrad; Volgograd, Russian Federation

true scale at close quarters and it went on for what seemed like miles, each section belching its own particular fumes. We took another classic Soviet hotel in Rostov, sometimes described as the father of all bandit cities. Minutes after checking in, the phone rang and on answering it, we received a very simple message. “Sex yes, sex no?” We assumed they were professionals. Even if any of us had been so inclined, it’s doubtful whether our bodies would have been up to anything much after the exhaustion of the past few days. Besides, they may not have been very keen on plying their trade to a bunch of cyclists who’d not seen a shower in a week. After a rest day in Rostov, we set out and within hours my body was failing me again. A couple of days later, I was showing no sign of recovery, however much energyrich food I ate and rest I took. I felt wretched. With the same reasoning I’d used previously, I decided I had to allow my body time to sort itself out rather than running it into the ground. The others left me at a station in a nearby town once we were sure I could catch a train from there. I soon discovered that queues were not quite the same thing in Russia as the UK. An amorphous mass of people stood around the ticket window and one by one, they were served. Eventually, I managed to get myself a ticket to Volgograd (aka Stalingrad) and wait for the overnight train. I’d been told that if I could “make bike small” I could take it on the train. The best I could do was take the wheels off but with a bit of perseverance, ‘niet’ could usually be turned into ‘da’ in Russia. The train turned up eight hours later than I’d expected it, so I spent the afternoon

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The Motherland Calls; Volgograd, Russian Federation

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writing my diary and chatting to the girl who served me in the station bar. I had reserved two bunks on the sleeper train, one for me, one for my bike and bags. Once onboard, I locked the bike to the bedpost and had a look around. It was gone 10pm by the time the train was on the move and a young lad from the next compartment knocked on the door and invited me to come and play cards and drink vodka with him and his mates. I badly wanted to take part, but at this stage of the trip, I was still cautious enough of the Russian bear to think twice. A few weeks later, I would have joined them like a shot (almost literally). There was plenty of time to enjoy Russian vodka parties yet though. The train arrived at 6am and with little to do for a few hours, I went for a wander. The memory of â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Great Patriotic Warâ&#x20AC;? runs deep in Volgograd, the five-month battle of Stalingrad having taken close to half a million Soviet lives, with almost two million casualties in total. Eternal flames burned on nearly every street corner, statues of Lenin were more prominent than elsewhere and down by the river I found a monument to the siege. Alongside a modern museum, the Gerhardt Mill stood as it was at the end of the war, bombed out and bathed in red light. On a hill a short way back from the river stood The Motherland Calls, a statue of Mother Russia which, at 85 metres from the feet to the tip of the sword (the figure herself being 52 metres), is taller than the Statue of Liberty. As part of a wider memorial complex, steps led up the hill via The Hall of Military Glory, containing a five-metre sculpture of a hand holding an eternal flame with guard of honour. Later in the day, I took my time exploring the complex and paying my respects to the millions of war dead.

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Once the other guys caught up, we took stock. It was 1,000 miles to Chelyabinsk, where we would meet Rory’s father and family friends and there were 10 days until he was due to arrive. As ever, it was Andy who had something to prove, being utterly determined to cycle every inch of the way to Singapore. I had nothing to lose, having already broken my journey. Scott was relatively relaxed, but Rory found it hard to make the break. The ideal of cycling from Stoke to Singapore was a powerful one, but the choice was stark. Ride 10 consecutive 100-mile-days to get to Chelyabinsk on time, or take the boat up the Volga as far as Samara. Scott, Rory and I said our goodbyes to Andy as he left on his mammoth trek and we went down to the docks. The mid-sized riverboat, the Komárno, was about 40 years old and we took a four-berth cabin just above the waterline in the bow. With two openable portholes, this gave plenty of opportunity for fun. We’d stocked up on beers, so once we were on our way we sat back, cracked them Russian roads, fractured by serial extremes of temperature

open and thought of Andy on the dusty and at times unmetalled road. The Volga was truly enormous, with the shore on the far horizon it felt more like a lake than a river. At a massive hydroelectric plant, we passed through a number of locks large enough for ocean-going vessels before the going became less dramatic. We settled in and it was not long before we met Fyodor, a student in his early 20s who had much to say about post-Soviet Russia, politics, economics and corruption. It was him who told us how amazed the border guards on either side of Ukraine would have been not to have been offered a discreet bribe. We disembarked at Samara and as we were cycling through the town when we first encountered the British Council, an organisation sponsored by the British government to promote British language and culture around the world at arm’s length. Seeing this outpost far from home, Rory and I were keen to go in and ask what they were all about. The young women who ran the centre

were pleased to see us and told us all about their activities, in large part the teaching of English, as well as running the English language bookshop. We didn’t have long but they told us there was another British Council in far-away Irkutsk (4,300km or around six weeks on the road). They would contact the British Council there and tell them to expect us. The reception we would receive in Irkutsk was far beyond anything we could have expected, but that’s a story for another day. After taking the opportunity to email home, we were back on the road. The landscape had become more interesting than in Ukraine – greener, with more rolling grassy hills than dusty cornfields, but it was nothing to write home about. It was on this road to Ufa that we had one of the standout experiences of the trip. In the late afternoon, we pulled into a truck-stop cafe for our evening meal. At around 80 miles, we’d made a good distance so, fairly relaxed, we ordered food and beer. Sitting at a table outside was a group

Being taught the fine FSB); north of Sam

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of four guys. As we were eating, it was clear they were watching us, and to a lesser extent, us them. Eventually, they made their move, leaning over and offering us vodka from one of the ring-pull bottles that were standard in Russia. We felt we’d got the lie of the land by now, so accepted. Turns out, they were KGB (technically FSB these days), on a 4,000km trip to Moldova. We could only guess why. They taught us the art of drinking vodka. One healthy shot of at least 100ml was followed by a hunk of bread or cheese and then a wait of 20 minutes before the next one. We chatted about our lives, jobs and families and theirs. And after the first one and a half bottles, Rory was feeling confident so asked to drive their car, a classic Lada, probably made down the road in the company’s Samara factory. After another couple of bottles of vodka, they decided they should be on their way and not long after that, we wobbled off to find the nearest available field.

er arts of vodka drinking by the KGB (now known as mara, Russian Federation. Scott Zentack second left

By now, we were well on the way to the Ural mountains and considering how we would meet up with Andy. We had not yet developed a regular technique for when we were apart so we just tried chalk messages on the road. Andy would either see them or he would not. The slow but steady climb of the forested Urals made very pleasant riding, but for Rory this wouldn’t last. Mid-afternoon he began to mention knee problems – which with his stubborn target-mindedness probably meant he’d been feeling them for some time, hours, if not days. In the late afternoon, it became severe and he cried out in pain. Determined not to stop, he even tried one-legged cycling using his cleats to pull the pedals round while his bad leg rested on the pannier behind. “Don’t be a dick, Rory,” I said. “You’ve got to stop, now.” He was in no position to argue, so we stopped, pitched camp in the pine forest and turned in. We were only about 100km from the somewhat arbitrary Europe-Asia divide and we were conscious of the

fact that one of us, the de facto leader inasmuch as there was one, was not with us. Andy had planned the trip, he was the oldest and had the most cycle touring experience. None of us liked to think of it that way, but outsiders looking in would usually see him as the leader. And he was not there. We stopped for lunch, trying to calculate how far it was to the Asian milestone and then to Chelyabinsk on the other side, where we would meet Rory’s dad and their Russian friends Natalya, Victor and family. We believed it was about 100km to Asia and then about the same to Chelyabinsk – all downhill we hoped. And then, as we were examining our maps, Andy rode into view. Within a stone’s throw of our next target, we were excited to be back together so did what came naturally and had a beer while we exchanged tales. We made the boundary in the late afternoon and crossed it together, took photos standing astride the continental divide (below) and then settled into a few further beers at the inevitable border cafe. ED On the boundary of Europe and Asia. Left to right: Scott Zentack, Rory James, Toby Wilsdon, Andy Ganner