Charitable Traveller March/April 23 - Issue 15

Page 12

50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful March/April 2023 ISSUE 15 50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful LUXURY IN EVERY SENSE South Africa combines sustainability with quality GO HERE INSTEAD Springtime in Jersey is full of surprises LESSER KNOWN SPAIN Take a tour of its hidden riches – from nature to food
Why not make a change and enjoy the ride on a slow holiday – travelling by train, boat, bike and foot
All change please

Finding JOY

FROM THE EDITOR Rebecca Miles

Hello and welcome along to the 15th issue of Charitable Traveller magazine. As milestones go, it may not be the biggest (does it even have its own shiny element?) but I still think it worth marking as I’m all for small victories and celebrating everything that brings us joy.

And there’s lots of joy to be found in this issue. Starting as far south as we can, Jamie Lafferty reports from Antarctica, where the penguin antics provide plenty of amusement among the epic icebergs. Then head to South Africa to hear how the country combines sustainability with natural quality, before discovering the

lesser-known delights of Spain and revelling in the simple pleasures of slow travel. Interpret that as you wish, there’s a languorous holiday for you out there. Closer to home, we’re visiting Jersey in the Channel Islands and, as always, shining a light on the great work our charity partners are doing.

Our hearts and minds are with everyone in Turkey and Syria who have been affected by the earthquakes. It’s been heartening to see the fantastic rallying the travel industry has done to offer its support in anyway possible, as well as all the charities who have stepped up to provide essential aid during this tough time. Our thoughts are with the victims, their families and these beautiful countries.

©CHARITABLE TRAVEL 2023. CHARITABLE TRAVELLER is part of CHARITABLE TRAVEL, Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, BR1 1LW, UK. Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes. T: 020 3092 1288 E: bookings@charitable.travel W: charitable.travel While every effort is made to ensure accuracy, CHARITABLE TRAVEL cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. FRONT COVER: 123RF.com. ICONS: thenounproject. com & flaticon.com. CEO: Melissa Tilling; MARKETING: Ally Ware, Rosie Buddell, Adam Pedley & Maddy Foot; SALES: Ali Nicholls; MAGAZINE EDITOR: Rebecca Miles; MAGAZINE DESIGNER: Claire Gates (clairegatesdesign@gmail.com)

Discover the lesser-known delights of Spain and revel in the simple pleasures of slow travel. Interpret that as you wish, there’s a languorous holiday for you out there
2 MARCH/APRIL 2023

56 Luxury in every sense of the word in South Africa

63 Four views of... Finland

65 Travel begins at 40 Mark Jackson in Trentino, Italy

66 Top ten Luxury spa resorts

70 Girl About Travel in Leeds

72 Social enterprise Q&A with the founder of BillyChip

74 In numbers British Thyroid Foundation

INSIDE
50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful March/April 50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful quality Springtime LESSER food All change please Why not make change and enjoy the ride slow holiday – travelling by train, boat, bike and 4 Get the picture 11 Win Lonely Planet’s Where To Go When trip planner 12 Global good news 14 Armchair Travel 17 Day in the life Phanice Omondi from Pursue CBO 19 Why I donate Lucia Rowe, A-Rosa River Cruises 20 Take it easy 10 of the best slow holidays to book now 32 Get to know Jersey 37 Postcard from Athens 38 Where emperors rule the land Touring Antarctica 45 Postcard from Bath 46 A taste of lesser know Spain Exploring the hidden riches 53 5 new wildlife hotspots... in biodiverse countries 55 5 charities... doing good in Latin America
this issue
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picture

Turtle duo back in the ocean

A pair of rehabilitated sea turtles were released back into the Atlantic Ocean on Valentine’s Day, February 2022. The team at the Florida Keys-based Turtle Hospital had been caring for the juvenile green sea turtles, nicknamed Port and Starboard, for three months. Found in the water at Lower Keys and diagnosed with fibropapillomatosis – a debilitating tumour-causing disease that affects sea turtle species around the world – they’ve been treated with surgery, antibiotics and a healthy diet by the team at the hospital in Marathon. charitable.travel/north-america/ florida/florida-keys

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All flips, no flops.

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Captiva Island, FL

Celebrate the start of spring

Taking place in cities and villages across Cyprus, ‘Anthestiria’ celebrates the coming of spring and the renewal of nature and life. Inspired by the ancient festival that was held in Athens, Larnaca, Germasogeia and Paphos municipalities have flower festivities during May, including parades with beautifully decorated floats, flower markets and shows. charitable.travel/cyprus

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upLighting Uluru

Never-seen-before lights and sounds are set to come together in a breathtaking show at Ayers Rock Resort. In a first for Uluru in Australia’s Northern Territory, ancient Anangu storytelling will be combined with state-of-the-art drone and laser light technology. Called Wintjiri Wiru – which suggests a ‘beautiful view out to the horizon’ in the local Anangu language – the experience launches in May. charitable.travel/australia

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Steven Wei at Unsplash

BOOK

A HOLIDAY TO ORLANDO

and donate to charity for free!

— Charitable Travel

— Find Your Perfect Orlando Vacation —

Home to the world’s top theme parks, Orlando — Theme Park Capital of the World — is the No. 1 family vacation destination in the United States, and one of the most welcoming. No matter if you are a theme park enthusiast, bird watcher, foodie, water sports fanatic, sun worshipper, arts patron, serious shopper or anything in between, you will find the perfect adventure here.

Story time

The second edition of the Marrakech International Storytelling Festival took place from 12-19 February, and storytellers gathered from around the world to share their tales. Nearly 90 storytellers came to pay tribute to a tradition that goes back a thousand years and to inspire the next generation of tellers.

charitable.travel/ morocco

Cerebral palsy affects around 1 in 400 children in the UK – so around 1,800 children are diagnosed every year. It’s the most common motor disability in childhood and is a lifelong condition.

Every child with a neurological condition like cerebral palsy has unique potential, they have their place in the world and a full life to live.

At Pace, we make it happen

get the picture MARCH/APRIL 2023
the lives of children with neurodisabilities
© Omar Belaarej
Changing
out how YOU can help Visit charitable.travel/pace
Find

WHERE TO GO when

Lonely Planet’s latest release answers that perennial question, where’s the best place to visit during every season of the year?

The second edition of Lonely Planet’s Where to Go When is a fully updated travel planner that covers every corner of the globe and recommends the best time of year to visit.

Including 300 destinations split into 12 chapters – one for each month – it doesn’t just focus on the weather. Outlining what makes that country, region, island or city so compelling to visit at that particular time, Where to Go When includes details on everything from events and the best time to see wildlife, to culinary festivals and sporty activities.

Take your pick from island hopping in Croatia or Cape Verde, visiting Jamaica for the Reggae Sumfest, or choosing between Bali or Bolivia. Infographic flowcharts will make sure you visit the best place for you, according to your interests, and taking into account the climate, value for money and family friendliness.

“This is the second edition of this hugely popular book, with new locations and updated information.  It’s as much about the best time to travel as it is about the why and the how. It’s a great way to help start planning your next trip and learn more about the destination,” says Chris Zeiher, senior director at Lonely Planet Publications.

Lonely Planet’s Where to Go When is out now in hardback for £19.99, available where all good books are sold.

Win!

We’ve got 10 copies of Where To Go When to give away – to be in with a chance of winning one, charitable.travel/lonely-visit planet to enter competitionour

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Archaeology

ROMAN CITY RUINS

A complete Roman city has been discovered in Luxor, Egypt. Found on the eastern bank of the city by archaeologists, it dates back to the second and third centuries CE. The excavations uncovered not just pots, pans, tools and coins but also two pigeon towers, found for the first time. These towers would have served as nests to home carrier pigeons to send messages across the Roman Empire. Luxor, on the banks of the Nile, is also the site of Thebes, the ancient Egyptian city dating from 3,200 BCE.

GLOBAL good news

Communities

RWANDA REVIEW SHOWS COLLABORATION WORKS

The results of a 15-year review of the Rwanda tourism revenue sharing programme have shown how important it is to involve local communities when protecting conservation areas. It’s a great endorsement for communities to receive both tangible and intangible benefits from protected areas as it’s been shown to increase their support of any conservation work. Rwanda introduced a tourism revenue sharing policy in 2005, which has led to a positive link between the national parks and development.

THE FIRST EVER GREENWAY CONNECTING TWO AMERICAN NATIONAL PARKS IS SET TO OPEN IN FLORIDA, LINKING THE EVERGLADES TO THE BISCAYNE PARKS

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FOR ANYONE KEEN TO KNOW MORE ABOUT LIVING SUSTAINABLY IN 2023, THE UN HAS LAUNCHED AN ONLINE COURSE –SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLES. AND IT’S FREE TO JOIN
emosteG tar v e l inspiration at charitab l e . levart
Christian Ruehmer at Unsplash

Animal welfare

Wildlife BEAVERS BACK IN THE THAMES

To meet the UK’s ambitious re-wilding targets (halt species decline and protect 30% of the UK’s land by 2030), beavers are to be reintroduced to the Thames in West London. They’re a keystone species, capable of transforming landscapes and the aim is they’re revitalise the wetlands.

DOLPHINS IN THE BRONX

Well, in the Bronx River, and a great indicator that the decades-long effort to restore the water quality is paying off. A pair of bottlenose dolphins were spotted swimming near Starlight Park in New York City, for the first time in over five years.

NATIVE STORK OFF THE LIST

Twitchers rejoice – after balancing on the edge of extinction for nearly 50 years, North America’s only native stork is poised to fly off the endangered species list. The wood stork is now widespread across the southeastern US and more than 10,000 nesting pairs have been recorded, and is now found across Mississippi, Florida, Alabama, Georgia and the Carolinas.

Access to water

LIQUID SUCCESS FOR INDIA’S RURAL HOUSEHOLDS

India’s Jal Jeevan mission to provide millions of rural households with tap water has reached a huge milestone. In less than four years, almost 79 million rural households (or 56%) have been connected to running water. When the project started, just 32.3 million households had access, and the aim is to reach 100% by the end of 2024. Jal Jeevan is one of the great unsung stories of human development, and a huge feat in a nation that has such extremes of wealth and poverty.

Ethical tourism MODERN ETHIOPIA

Together We Learn, a charity working in Ethiopia to break the cycle of poverty through the power of education, is launching small group tours for travellers looking for adventure and authentic experiences in Ethiopia. One of Charitable Travel’s charity partners, its first tour is Modern Ethiopia: Food and Culture in May, and promises to show the country’s best sounds, tastes and sights. charitable.travel/ together-we-learn

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When it comes to responsible tourism staying current is key, which is why Intrepid Travel – one of the world’s largest and most reputable tour operators –has audited its 140-plus wildlife tours and removed any that fail to meet its strict ethical engagement standards.
Together we learn
Simone Wenth at Unsplash

SHELTERBOX BOOK CLUB

Not strictly a book, a film, or a TV series, the ShelterBox Book Club is a virtual book club that works to help some of the world’s most vulnerable people recover and rebuild their homes after disaster. Sign up to the £10 monthly subscription and you’ll receive a book every six weeks that’s inspired by people and places in the real world, where ShelterBox has helped in an emergency. Read the books, then take part in the online discussions and exclusive experiences, including Q&As with the authors. Visit shelterbox.org to sign up.

UNFORGETTABLE JOURNEYS EUROPE: DISCOVER THE JOYS OF SLOW TRAVEL

Whether you prefer to travel by foot, bike, boat, car or train, DK’s latest inspirational travel book (published on 2nd March) is a vibrant celebration of taking the scenic route. Covering some of Europe’s greats – the lakes of northern Italy, the tulip fields of the Netherlands – as well as more understated scenes that are just as stunning, evocative writing and lavish photography sit alongside more practical details, such as where to start and end, and how difficult each is.

RED SAUCE BROWN SAUCE By

Cloake

ARMCHAIR travel time

A book club to help people in global disasters, a paean to slow travel in Europe, the humble breakfast in Britain, and Irish Oscar limelight

Following on from the delightful One More Croissant for the Road, Felicity Cloake turns her attention to the British Isles and the most important meal of the day – breakfast. As the Guardian’s taster-in-chief Cloake is well placed to extol the virtues, or otherwise, or ketchup versus brown sauce on our morning bacon sarnie as she travels the length and breadth of the country by bicycle. A freewheeling gastronomic tour like no other, it takes in everything from proper Scottish porridge to a desi breakfast in Birmingham and a Greggs Geordie stottie cake.

New Film

Book Book

THE BANSHEES OF INISHERIN

Nominated for Best Picture at the 2023 Oscars, The Banshees of Inisherin is set on the fictional, remote Irish island of Inisherin. So it makes sense that it was largely filmed on an actual remote Irish island – Achill Island, just off County Mayo and the Wild Atlantic May. Director Martin McDonagh wanted to create a mythical, beautiful place that was central to the film’s character, and with Achill’s mountains and deserted beaches – Keem Bay has a starring role, he achieved just that. The island of Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands in Galway Bay, was also used.

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LESSER-KNOWN Spain

In the latest Travel Insider Podcast, we take a look at the alternative side to Spain, a country that needs little introduction. As one of the most popular holiday destinations in Europe if not the world, it’s easy to assume we know all there is to see and do in this varied country on the Iberian peninsula.

Yet with a country as diverse as Spain there is always something new to discover and travelling off the beaten track is easy to do here.

Exploring the unusual

Our host Rebecca Miles is joined by two incredibly knowledgeable and passionate guests, Esther Rojo and Pedro Medina from the Spanish tourist office, who share their suggestions for a less obvious holiday to Spain.

Covering everything from vast national parks and delicious food, to arts and culture, vibrant cities and relaxing beaches, as well as a very efficient train network for getting around, this podcast episode will inspire you to spend an authentic, sustainable and memorable time in Spain very soon.

Queensland

The second largest state in Australia is home to a staggering 4,000 miles of coastline, off which lies its most famous landmark, the Great Barrier Reef – the world’s largest coral reef system. To the south of the state, you’ll find the vast sandy beaches of the Gold Coast and the Sunshine Coast, while in the north is the Daintree Rainforest, the oldest living rainforest in the world. And inland from all that are ancient landscapes and national parks teeming with wildlife. Join us to learn all about this incredible place.

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COMING SOON
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©Tourspain
In under an hour, you can immerse yourself in our saltwater pools Plan your getaway at visitguernsey.com charitable.travel/guernsey Our Spa never closes # ThatIslandFeeling

A day in THE LIFE OF...

Phanice Omondi, a school liason officer, with Pursue

A typical day...

As a school liaison officer, I’m based at the New Day Model School in Bulanda and my day starts with the reading intervention programme early in the morning once the learners have arrived in school. The programme aims to improve learners’ literacy skills and teaches the blending of sounds to help form words, which later leads to the formation of sentences and makes a learner able to read a story book. The flashcards, storybooks and other reading resources used in the programme are provided by the organisation.

Let’s teach!

We support teachers with development training and school leader training, plus run adult literacy classes. pursue.org.uk

I then visit different classes where I model some lessons to teachers for them to observe, then give them time to teach the lesson. While they’re teaching, I observe individual teachers using the Pursue Teacher Framework Tool and give them feedback, where we discuss their strengths, challenges and areas of improvement. I also set targets with them to help them remain focused in their teaching process.

Next I usually teach an adult literacy class, which is highly attended by the elderly in the community. I teach them literacy and numeracy skills, paying attention to them individually because of their varied abilities. Because of their age they need a lot of love and attention, and after the classes I’ll listen to them discussing their projects and support them. They’re currently running a project making and selling liquid soap to make themselves more self-reliant, and the skills they learn in class help them to communicate with customers and give back the right change when selling.

Later in the day, I meet the school’s young learners to

support storybook reading sessions, where we read books and I’ll encourage them to tell stories to their peers so we can all listen and ask questions.

I also meet the student council and guide them on leadership by ensuring positive discipline is implemented in the school, and supervise the teachers with their lesson planning.

The hardest thing...

Is when a 70-year-old student joins the adult literacy class and they don’t know how to hold a pencil yet have to learn how to read and write. I really feel for them but pray and believe that they will learn in time.

The best thing...

Is the happiness I feel seeing children as young as five reading stories and explaining what they have read to their peers as a result of the reading intervention programme. It’s nice when young children from a rural school express themselves in English, both at home and in school, and the programme has resulted in higher enrolment at the school. It’s also good to see that the teachers have improved their teaching skills as a result of the teacher development trainings on offer.

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PURSUE CBO is a community-based organisation working in Butere in Kenya. It helps support rural schools by providing teacher development and school leadership training, along with offering adult literacy programmes to community members. OUTDOOR LEARNING
moer erg a t causes at charitable .t r a lev

50

Five incredible locations. ONE EPIC ADVENTURE.

Run the River

Set yourself the ultimate running goal in 2023, and achieve it with personalised guidance from inspirational ‘Marathon Man’, Rory Coleman. Run ten kilometres a day over five unforgettable days, through the spectacular natural landscapes and beautiful cities of the Danube, totalling 50 kilometres of new discoveries, new friends and new feelings of remarkable personal achievement.

This incredible challenge is open to everyone, all you need is determination and commitment. The reward will be all yours.

OUR Secure Your Cabin NOW! Early Bird Pricing until 31 March 2023

EXPERT

Departs 25 October 2023, 6 Night Premium All-Inclusive
T&Cs: £1,099 for the ground package (does not include flights). The ground package includes: transfers, 1-night in Engelhartszell on B&B basis, cruise and the Run the River programme with Rory Coleman. DANUBE RIVER CRUISE FROM £1,099
VISIT CHARITABLE.TRAVEL/RUN-THE-RIVER FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK
kilometres.
you invest in this challenge, Rory will offer one-on-one guidance and tools to prepare you mentally and physically for success. 5% FROM EVERY BOOKING GOES TO THE CHARITY OF YOUR CHOICE

WHY I donate...

I never used to be a runner, and other than setting up random direct debits, I never used to do anything for charity. Now I run nearly 3,000km a year, annually raise £10-15,000 for several charities, including Cancer Research and the Family Holiday Association, and in October, with Charitable Travel, I’m launching A-Rosa River Cruises’ Run the River challenge on the Danube.

It all started when I was diagnosed, completely out of the blue, with Leukaemia. I’d started to run a bit and dreamt of running a half marathon, so I was really happy when I ran the Royal Parks Half Marathon. It felt great, and

Through my private healthcare provided through my job, I had the chance to take a health MOT. Feeling as good as I did, when the tests came back to say I had Leukaemia it was such a shock, it was horrendous.

smoked, I didn’t drink, and I’d only discovered running a year before.

I was diagnosed with Leukaemia early on in the Covid pandemic, when there wasn’t a vaccine and a common cold could have killed me, let alone

Covid. What kept me going when I was in hospital was the thought of being back out in the park and doing something for somebody else – other than my immediate family – and telling my story and inspiring people.

The moment I was off chemo and allowed to just go for a walk in the park I restarted my training, which was so hard! People had said to me, ‘Never mind running a kilometre or two, you won’t be able to walk,’ which I’d dismissed as rubbish, having regularly run 20km, but of course my body had been taken to a place where it needed a lot of retraining and healing.

To overcome this, I’d go out every single day and train in a mask – and not just one of those light ones but one of the proper full-on surgical ones – because I was at such high risk. As my strength returned I started to enter various short races, then bigger ones, but the turning point came when I got involved with the Family Holiday Association. I came across the

charity via A-Rosa’s connection with the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA). Our trade body works closely with this charity that helps disadvantaged families who haven’t had the luxury of even a day’s holiday in their life, and it quickly became very dear to my heart.

Less than eight months after my chemo I ran the London Marathon for the Family Holiday Association, and now run a big event each month, for them and for Cancer Research. Our Run the River challenge is the logical next step in helping others.

Take part

My illness is quite a tricky one. I’m in remission but every three months I have complex checks and I know I’m living on borrowed time. But running, raising money, and inspiring people to get out there to do what they need to do keeps me going.

I feel free when I’m running and after a run I feel like I can handle anything; it gives me a sort of superpower.

Join Lucia, A-Rosa and Charitable Travel on the Run the River cruise on the River Danube. The challenge? Run 10km a day, for five days in October. Find out more
charitable.travel/ run-the-river
here
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Lucia Rowe, the UK MD of A-Rosa River Cruises, used her Leukaemia diagnosis to inspire others and take her running to the next level

Take it easy

Slow travel is all about embracing the place you’re visiting and taking your time to explore its culture, history and food. Rebecca Miles picks 10 of the best slow holidays to book now for travel by foot, bike, train or boat

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MEKONG RIVER CRUISE, VIETNAM AND CAMBODIA

There’s only one way to experience the fabled, timeless Mekong River and that’s on it. Set sail on the only vessel to cruise this stretch of the Mekong, the Victoria Mekong (above), and you’ll travel in four-star comfort between the sumptuous greenery of Can Tho in Vietnam and the heart of Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh. With just 35 staterooms on board, all with private balconies for sundowners, as well as a spa, infinity pool, gym and impeccable eco-credentials, this is proper small-ship cruising. Details The Mekong River Cruise is a three-night downstream – or four-night upstream – cruise with Wendy Wu Tours.

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1 llA naceseht b e booked at charitable .t r a lev

WALKING AND WINE IN THE DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL

Could there be anything more pleasurable than ambling through Portugal’s UNESCOlisted Douro Valley? It’s rich with as many stories as it is vineyards, and is ideal for combining leisurely walks with visits to port- and vinho verdeproducing vineyards. Thought to be home to vines for over 2,000 years, the Douro Valley was once one of the world’s most dominant trading powers and remains a lush, captivating country. Details Exodus offers an eight-day walking tour with premium accommodation and lots of wine tasting with six trips running before the end of the year.

Your holiday could help fund surgery for a child like Jocy!

CURE children’s hospitals provide free world-class surgical care for children with disabilities in developing countries. With your help, we can ensure that every child has access to the life-changing healthcare they desperately need.

slow travel
2 charitable.travel/cure-uk
THE DOURO VALLEY

Slowdayssunny

NO-FLY MALLORCA BY RAIL AND SEA, MALLORCA

Have a sun-soaked week in balmy Mallorca without setting foot on a plane on this 10-night trip form Fred Holidays. Where the journey is as much a part of the holiday as the destination, travel by train from London St Pancras to Barcelona, changing in Paris, and spend 24 hours in the Catalonian capital before boarding an overnight ferry to Palma. Wake up refreshed in the largest island in the Balearics, ready for a week of sun-soaked fun.

Details Fred Holidays has a 10-night no-fly trip to Mallorca, including train travel, overnight ferry and seven nights four-star B&B accommodation.

slow travel CHARITABLE TRAVELLER 23 BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288 CHARITABLE.TRAVEL
3
LIGHTHOUSE OF CAP DE FORMENTOR

Waterfront living

A TRAIN TOUR OF FINLAND

Get under the skin of Finland on an eight-day tour of three of the country’s liveliest cities. Visit Helsinki, Tampere and Turku by train, and discover the important role these cities have had in the history of the country, as well as their modern-day significance. Turku, for example, is fast becoming a leading light in Nordic cuisine, Helsinki is full of cool and contemporary architecture and Tampere is home to Finland’s oldest operating public sauna.

Details Regent Holidays offers a self-guided eight-day tour of Finland’s Golden Triangle.

slow travel Run, Walk, Swim, Cycle... How will you reach the finish line? Scan here to Sign up today! © 2023 Ben - Motor and Allied Trades Benevolent Fund. Lynwood Court, Lynwood Village, Rise Road, Ascot, SL5 0FG. A charity registered in England and Wales (no.297877) and Scotland (no.SC039842). A company limited by guarantee, registered in England and Wales (no.02163894). Registered with the Homes and Communities Agency (no. LH 3766).
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A line with a view

CANAL DE GARONNE BOAT HIRE, FRANCE

One of the finest pleasures in life is simply messing about on the river, and there’s few finer rivers to mess about on than the River Baïse and its connecting Canal de Garonne in the Aquitaine region in south-west France. Meander through meadows, orchards and medieval villages filled with historic churches and château, and stop often to sample some of the greatest French gastronomy, including wild mushrooms, local cheeses, and Bordeaux and Chablis wines. Details Le Boat offers boat hire from Le Mas d’Agenais from three nights to two weeks.

THE ALL-AMERICAN RAIL TRIP, USA

An epic way to see an epic country, this 17-day tour stretches from coast to coast and starts and ends in Chicago. Spending some nights on board Amtrak trains (upgrade options are available) and others in city centre hotels, you’ll visit New Orleans, San Francisco, Denver and New York, and have time to explore California’s Pacific coast, Colorado’s Rocky Mountains and New Orleans’ French Quarter. Details Railbookers offers regular departure dates for this 17-day itinerary.

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slow travel
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CANAL DE GARONNE THE CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR TRAIN

Most of all, we are here to help & support you & your family who are living with Epilepsy

slow travel RECENTLY DI AGNOSED? STRUGGLING WITH YOUR EPILEPS Y? NEED TO TALK?
charity tries to educate &
awareness on Epilepsy
Our
raise
THE� VOIC� FOR EPILEPSY The Voice for Epilepsy Registered Charity Number 1181756 I) charitable.travel/the-voice-for-epilepsy El info@thevoiceforepilepsy.co.uk D facebook.com/voice4epilepsy ml linkedin.com/company/voice4epilepsy � instagram.com/voice4epilepsy C twitter.com/voice4epilepsy
CAPE ST. BLAIZE LIGHTHOUSE

GARDEN ROUTE ADVENTURE, SOUTH AFRICA

Where else can you spend one day elephant spotting, the next wine tasting, and the next hiking the highlands? On South Africa’s Garden Route, where the road wends its way through the Addo Elephant National Park, the Hermanus Wine Region and the Lesotho Highlands, and is crying out to be enjoyed at a slower pace. Starting in Durban, Intrepid’s tour takes 14 days to arrive in Cape Town, and on the way you’ll be spending nights under canvas and the days simply taking it all in.

Details Intrepid offers a 14-day Garden Route Adventure through South Africa with regular departures through to 2024.

END SLAVERY. CHANGE LIVES.

Hope for Justice is a charity working in the UK and around the world to bring an end to modern slavery and human trafficking, and to protect the human rights of victims and survivors.

You can be part of PREVENTING EXPLOITATION, RESCUING VICTIMS, RESTORING LIVES AND REFORMING SOCIET Y.

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DIVING FROM A LIVEABOARD BOAT, THE CARIBBEAN

Slow down and take a look at the enchanting world beneath the surface of the Caribbean Sea. On a seven-night liveaboard dive holiday exploring the lesserknown northeastern Caribbean around the islands of St Kitts, St Maarten and Saba, the highlight is Saba’s Marine Park. Five miles wide, it encircles the volcanic island and its offshore pinnacles, volcanic sand and abrupt topography are a feast for marine life. Over in St Kitts, you’ll find finger reefs and recent wrecks, while St Maarten is surrounded by colourful coral reefs. Details Diverse offers sevennight dive holidays on board its specialist dive boat Caribbean Explorer II with weekly departures throughout 2023.

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CORAL REEFS Francesco Ungaro at Unsplash

EXPLORE THE ANCIENT NATIONS OF CHINA AND JAPAN

We don’t use the word monumental lightly here but it feels justified to describe this 16-day tour that travels from the Great Wall of China to the soaring heights of Mt Fuji. Starting in Beijing, and seeing the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square, you’ll then come face to face with the Terracotta Warriors, scale the Great Wall and visit Shanghai and Suzhou. Once in Japan, the highlights continue in Osaka, a moment of pause with the Buddhist monks at Kōyasan, then reflection in Hiroshima and the sacred island of Miyajima. There’s then time to visit Kyoto, Lake Ashino-ko and the natural hot springs before finishing up in Tokyo. Details G Adventures runs its 16-day Beijing to Tokyo: The Great Wall & Mt Fuji itinerary with regular departures through to 2024.

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THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA
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CYCLING IN THE PELOPONNESE, GREECE

It’s pedal power in the Peloponnese as you take in the greats of Greek myths and legends on a seven-night selfguided cycling tour around the peninsula. Follow in the tracks of Hera and Hercules and cycle through the astoundingly beautiful Arcadia region, with its thick pine forest and meadows, before reaching the coast and the first capital of Greece, Nafplio. Refuel on fresh seafood at tavernas that spill into the sea and ease aching muscles at carefully selected three- and four-star hotels. Details Headwater offers a seven-night self-guided cycling tour through the Peloponnese, with weekly departures through to October 2023.

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Get to know JERSEY

What’s it all about?

Welcome to the curiously Brit…(ish) island of Jersey, a place where you will truly feel on holiday. A place that’s familiar, but with a delightfully Continental twist. The sunniest spot in the British Isles is just a short flight or ferry ride away from the UK mainland. Visit this spring and you’ll find a whole host of activities and events, as well as ancient castles, beautiful beaches, stunning landscapes, the famed Jersey produce, bustling St.Helier, and so much more.

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A JERSEY DRIVE-THRU
JERSEY
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Local specialities

Jersey is bursting with flavour from abundant local produce. Get a real taste of the island through its local specialities that are famed across the world.

JERSEY ROYALS

Famed for their distinct nutty taste, Jersey Royal season – from April to August – is a cause of celebration on the island.

SEAFOOD

With all that coastline, it’s only natural that seafood should feature heavily on Jersey’s menus. Why not tuck into a fresh Jersey lobster, served up with a warm welcome and a dose of sea air.

ICE CREAM

Jersey’s famous cows have been making the creamiest, richest and smoothest ice cream in the world since 1763. This irresistible ice cream is best enjoyed with the sand between your toes, or as a sweet treat after a hard day’s exploring.

Events in spring

There’s so much more to Jersey than a summer holiday. Spring in particular, is an ideal time to uncover the Island’s story, savour the fresh food, explore nature, connect with locals and discover the true pride and passion of Jersey. Each spring, the Island hosts many events, festivals and challenges, with almost every interest covered. So whether you crave the great outdoors, love to dance, soak up the culture or immerse yourself in the history, there’s an event for you taking place among Jersey’s delightfully familiar landscape with its sparkly continental twist.

Highlights include Taste Jersey, a gastronomic celebration of island flavours from late March to early May. Enjoy specially crafted menus from leading local restaurants featuring the finest local ingredients. Food lovers can also look forward to the Eat Jersey Food Festival at the end of March, which sees five outstanding chefs from around the UK descend on the four-star Michelin-starred Atlantic hotel.

Those seeking culture will love La Fête du R’nouvé, Jersey’s annual celebration of spring festival on 14 May, with lots of chilled-out acoustic sounds, storytelling, poetry and good food in the grounds of the historic La Hougue Bie. Similarly, Genuine Jersey Artisans’ Market showcases goods from producers and craft workers. Beginning in April, this regular artisans’ market takes place in the picturesque harbour village of St. Aubin.

For anyone active, spring is a great time to visit this most Brit…(ish) of islands, as the Walk in the Park event runs throughout May and gives visitors the chance to explore the natural beauty of the Jersey National Park on regular guided walks. Or face the tough True Grit challenge at Ronez Quarry on 16 April, take part in the Durrell Challenge, a 13k race (with a family-friendly 2.6k option) through Jersey zoo on 14 May, or walk 48 miles of Jersey’s coastline on the Island Walk on 17 June.

Lastly, don’t miss Liberation Day on 9 May. Considered Jersey’s national day, it marks the end of the German Occupation during the Second World War and involves lots of celebrations based around Liberation Square, Royal Square and the Weighbridge in St Helier, with live music, great food and entertainment.

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LIBERATION DAY
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Why I love Jersey in the springtime

My first trip to Jersey was in March, over a decade ago, when I made the long journey to the island from my home in New York City. Within minutes of landing – after a remarkably short flight from Heathrow – I found myself on the beach in St. Ouen’s Bay surrounded by crisp sea air, sprawling sand dunes, and shimmering blue sea. There’s no question that Jersey shines bright in the summer (it is, after all, officially the sunniest place in the British Isles) but springtime is when the island truly bursts to life. From winding green lanes and fields of golden daffodils to the Victorian Central Market brimming with local produce, doe-eyed Jersey cows grazing in the fields (they’re out and about starting from March), briny oysters freshly plucked from the sea and

more, spring is an enchanting time to discover Jersey. As a long-time visitor who now calls the island home, I’m often asked by visitors and locals alike if I miss New York – and the truth is, I’m still amazed by everything on my doorstep in Jersey. On a beautiful spring day I can start my morning with an invigorating beach or cliff-path walk, stop for a delicious local crab sandwich or Jersey Cream Tea (The Hungry Man cafe is my favourite), visit a medieval castle (Mont Orgueil) or Neolithic passage grave that predates the pyramids (La Hougue Bie) and finish my evening with a Michelin-starred dinner in St. Helier – all without having to leave this 9x5-mile island.

St. Helier

No trip to Jersey is complete without exploring the harbour town of St. Helier. Pick up a croissant from the Victorian Central Market and discover stalls bursting with local produce, there’s everything from street food to smart brasseries for lunch, and after dark, relax in stylish cocktail lounges for a tipple or two. History and culture abound in its museums and art galleries, bustling markets and independent boutiques, and it’s the perfect size to easily explore on foot.

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CENTRAL MARKET
ASHLEY PROUDFOOT MONT ORGUEIL

Get outdoors

Nourish your soul and rejuvenate your limbs exploring this great Brit…ish island. From cold water swimming to stand up paddleboarding and kayaking the coves, it’s all about getting a daily dose of vitamin sea on Jersey. Hiking the National Park, which spans 48km of beautiful coastline, where country lanes open on to clifftop views and secluded bays, is also a must.

Discover Jersey’s past

From the Ice Age to the modern day, Jersey has always had a tale to tell. Visit the island and uncover the island’s curiously Brit...(ish) history –explore World War II bunkers, ancient burial grounds, Palaeolithic caves and impressive castles. Then make your own history by checking into one of the island’s unique island stays, such as the lovingly restored La Crête Fort on the water’s edge, or Hamptonne, a beautifully restored farm in the countryside.

The beaches

Pack you beach bags for the sunniest spot in the British Isles where you’re never more than 10 minutes from the sea. From the golden sandy bays of the south, the Atlantic waves of the west coast and the sheltered coves and hidden rock pools of the north and east, Jersey’s beaches are your playground to explore. The island’s personality changes from coast to coast, so find your ideal spot to revitalise and recharge.

ST

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JERSEY’S FRESH OYSTERS BRELADE’S BAY HIKING THE JERSEY NATIONAL PARK
Jersey has the perfect conditions to grow the tastiest oysters in the world. Put on your wellies and walk out to Seymour Oyster beds for the finest shellfish, with champagne to match
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Step back in time

A weekend in Athens in the low season is highly recommended, not least because the city’s most famous monument – the Parthenon – is nowhere near as crowded as it is in the summer. We walk up the hill to the Acropolis, which has towered over Athens since 447BC, to marvel at the epic Doric columns in the daylight, before retreating to the rooftop bar of our hotel, the Moon and Stars, to take in the view of the incredible monument at night (rooftop bars are a common feature of many city-centre hotels). With a drink in hand, it sparks thoughts of ancient Greece and the civilisation that lived here all those years ago.

We’re within walking distance of Monastraki Square, where we gaze at the ruins of the Roman Forum of Athens and Hadrian’s Library, before heading to Syntagma Square, which is home to the parliament building and where we catch the ornate changing of the guard (it takes place on certain Sundays at 11am;

Postcard fromATHENS

check online for dates).

Between the two, we spend a very enjoyable few hours browsing the Monastiraki flea market, a warren of shops and stalls selling everything from souvenirs to silverware, porcelain and bric-à-brac,

as well as food and drink. We’re spoilt for choice on where to have dinner but settle on a place called A Little Taste of Home, about five minutes from our hotel. The beef short ribs had been in the oven since 9.30 that morning and fell off the bone into delicious strands in a gorgeous gravy.

The next day we head to the coast – the Athens Riviera, easily accessed on the red metro line. I love being by the waterfront, and there’s a small beach here as well as a couple of marinas. I could sit and watch the boats come and go all day.

All too soon it’s time to head home, but we pack olive oil, salt and herbs in our suitcase to remind us of our #greekend – an Athens city break.

For more of Heidi’s travels, visit her blog: kitchentalkandtravels.com

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The temperature in Athens in spring is around 20°C and it typically only rains four days a month
As well as hot and cold meze don’t miss trying fritters of all flavours, served at tavernas
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A truly timeless view
MONASTIRAKI FLEA MARKET THE PARTHENON Nomadic Julien at Unsplash Victor Ajayi at Unsplash

Where emperors rule the land

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A landscape of extremes inhabited by whales, penguins and icebergs, Antarctica has a magnetism like nowhere else.

Jamie

reports from the frozen continent

The emperor did not appreciate being disturbed, especially not by one so much smaller than he. The regent had been lying down on the edge of some fast ice, keeping half an eye on a nearby crabeater seal, when an Adélie penguin shot from the water and landed next to him with a soft bump. The emperor – the largest of all penguins – was momentarily startled, took a second, then pulled himself up to his full height. At 120cm, he’s twice as tall and more than 10 times the weight of the intruder, who wisely waddled off into the white beyond.

Adélie and emperor penguins are two of the world’s 18 penguin species, but they are the only two that nest exclusively in Antarctica. Visitors come to the icy continent for all sorts of things – the abundant whales, the impossible landscapes, the ludicrous history – but whether they are willing to admit it or not, penguins are almost always the most beloved prize. Record numbers of tourists come this far south these days, but since the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration, penguins have left visitors with a smile. Writing in his seminal book The Worst Journey

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EMPEROR PENGUINS StudioPONANT, Olivier Blaud StudioPONANT, Olivier Blaud

In The World, Aspley CherryGarrard said of the birds: “We saw the little Adélie penguins hurrying to meet us. ‘Great Scott’, they seemed to say… full of wonder and curiosity, and perhaps a little out of breath, they stopped every now and then to express their feelings.” Serious naturalists will tell you that personification is a bad business and not helpful for understanding animal behaviour, but even the most battle-hardened struggle not to look at the behaviour of penguins and see something of ourselves. As CherryGarrard put it: “They are extraordinarily like children, these little people of the Antarctic world.” I have never tried to resist the daft calls of the penguins. In 2022 I was able to return to Antarctica on writing and photography assignments on three occasions. On each, I saw penguins in such numbers and confusion that it was hard to document with my camera, let alone my pen. On South Georgia the mighty kings covered the island in their hundreds of thousands, occasionally

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Serious naturalists will tell you that personification is bad, but even the most battle-hardened struggle not to look at the behaviour of penguins and see something of ourselves
GENTOO PENGUINS
A WEDDELL SEAL LE COMMANDANT CHARCOT StudioPONANT, Olivier Blaud StudioPONANT, Olivier Blaud StudioPONANT, Olivier Blaud

Up close with the ice

interspersed with gregarious gentoos. On the Falkland Islands, Magellanic penguins wandered newly landmine-free beaches just outside of the town of Stanley. Down on the Antarctic Peninsula, chinstrap penguins, with their black tongues and ugly calls, looked like little goths next to more colourful birds. The emperors were out of range though. To access their frozen territories requires dedication (and

money) that keeps them out of most itineraries.

EXPLORING THE ICE

So popular has tourism become in Antarctica that the Peninsula is now close to capacity for cruise ships. Each must abide by strict rules defined by the Antarctic Treaty and those laid out by the International Antarctic Association of Tour Operators (IAATO), but nonetheless, with an estimated

100,000 tourists in the 2022/23 season, landing sites are being booked months in advance, and no ship is likely to sail without seeing others around the icy coasts. However, as the industry expands and newer, greener, tougher ships are launched, so the continent opens up a little more. Currently standing above all other options is Ponant’s new hybrid-fuelled Le Commandant Charcot, and it has emperors comfortably

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StudioPONANT, Olivier Blaud

within its range. While virtually all polar ships have reinforced hulls, this 135-berth ship is the only official icebreaker currently carrying passengers. Put simply, this allows it to reach places no other company currently can. The Marseille-based company have not been shy in its deployment.

In January 2023 I boarded Le Commandant Charcot for its first transcontinental cruise from Ushuaia, Argentina, all the way along the vast Antarctic coast, to Lyttleton, New Zealand. This was the port from which CherryGarrard, led by Captain Scott on his doomed mission to the South Pole, set sail in 1910.

If their mission was defined by hardship, ours could hardly have been more comfortable. On board there are features so decadent as to seem inappropriate in the environment: a cigar lounge, a spa, a personal trainer in the gym, a finedining restaurant with a menu from Alain Ducasse, limitless champagne available from breakfast – and plenty of passengers willing to take up that offer.

Some of these elements definitely feel more like a cruise than an expedition, but despite all that tinsel, what really matters are the decisions being made on the bridge by Captain Stanislas Devorsine. He’d been captain of a French Antarctic icebreaker for a decade before joining Ponant. The chance to take charge of this new vessel was irresistible. “This ship is really amazing,” he tells me in his office one evening after a long day of bumping and crushing our way through pack ice. “There are many things I think she cannot do, but she does. For me it allows maximum flexibility.”

Also on board is a helicopter, which I initially feared might be used for gratuitous sight-seeing flights. In fact, it’s used exclusively to scout out ice conditions ahead. The ship may be reinforced, but when pieces of tabular ice are not only longer but taller than her, the captain has to give them a wide berth.

Between the pilots, the captain, and weather so favourable I could spend afternoons reading on my balcony, we push on to some extraordinary latitudes, leaving

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Despite all that tinsel, what really matters are the decisions being made on the bridge by Captain Stanislas Devorsine. He’d previously been captain for a French Antartic icebreaker
THE DAY
PENGUINS ON THE ICEBERG SPA THE BAR StudioPONANT, Olivier Blaud PONANT, Giles Trillard PONANT, Giles Trillard

the crowded Antarctic Peninsula far behind. IAATO provides ships with briefings on what to expect and how to behave at landing sites, but on places like Sims Island – a dramatic, Mordorian black rock – they have no information.

On the Brownson Islands, deep into the Amundsen Sea, charts are useless – many of the islands haven’t even been named. No tourist ship had ever visited before, nor seen any of the 6,000 emperor penguins thought to nest here in winter. The Antarctic skuas and hardy little Adélie penguins living there in the austral summer were unlikely to have ever seen humans before, either. As I slide out of the motorised Zodiac and on to the unnamed shore, expedition leader Florence Kuyper offers me a firm

antarctica
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Retail therapy

As I get my shoulders under the warm mineral waters of the rooftop pool at the Bath Spa Thermae, it’s easy to see why so many period films and TV shows are filmed in Bath –there’s barely a 21st century addition in sight. Higgledy piggledy roofs dotted with stubby chimney stacks sit atop limestone Georgian houses, and with its seven surrounding hills in the near distance, I get a great sense of just how compact this World Heritage city is.

I’m visiting with a group of girlfriends and an afternoon at the Bath Spa Thermae is highly recommended. From £38 for two hours access to not just its rooftop pool but a series of saunas and steam rooms plus a larger thermal pool, we’re taking in the same mineral-rich waters as the Celts and Romans did over 2,000 years ago.

Next on our weekend here is some retail therapy. Bath’s narrow streets, many of them pedestrianised, are full of independent shops and

Postcard from BATH

small chains (highlights include Thirsty Meeples, a board game cafe, and the smart boutiques Boho and Bibico), and when we’re there the Christmas markets are in full swing too. It’s shopping heaven, and well worth booking some accommodation for in advance as it’s busy in December.

– most weekend nights they have live music

Those views!

Wandering through the squares around and behind the Gothic late medieval Abbey and the 18th century Pulteney Bridge, we stop for mulled wine and pastries at the Abbey Deli, which has a starring role in Netflix’s Bridgerton series (further proof of Bath’s alluring Georgian architecture). The weather is playing ball so we take a stroll through Royal Victoria Park, clocking the impressive Royal Crescent, before getting agreeably lost in the Botanical Gardens. If the weather hadn’t been so good, the Roman Baths, Mary Shelley’s House of Frankenstein, the Jane Austen Centre and the Holburne Museum all look enticing.

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PULTENEY BRIDGE
Expect a buzzy dinner at Green Park Brasserie
Local food and drink is a big deal in Bath – the city is surrounded by some great producers
Spring time in Bath
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THE ROYAL CRESCENT GEORGIAN BUILDINGS BATH SPA THERMAE

There’s so much more to Spain than the obvious. Isabella Noble takes us on a tour of its hidden riches, from the culture and nature to the art and food

Spain A taste of LESSER KNOWN

Ablissfully quiet, sanddusted cove where the Mediterranean ripples under a flaming sunset. A wellworn tapas bar overlooking a centuries-old church on a buzzy village plaza. A spine-tingling walking trail set against a silent backdrop of snow-dusted peaks. Welcome to Spain – the lesserknown side.

Since tourism kicked off back in the mid-20th century, Spain has grown into one of the world’s most-loved destinations, and in 2022 welcomed around 70 million visitors. But beyond the beachy hotspots, the busy headliner cities and the book-ahead famous galleries, vast pockets of the country remain little-explored by foreign travellers. Simply visiting

outside the peak summer months of July and August can completely transform a destination, while diving into an underrated region can throw a whole new light on Spain’s endlessly varied beauty. With a raft of new rail routes launched in recent years, everimproving train links mean it is now easier than ever to step into Spain’s lesser-known corners while keeping your environmental impact low, too; the journey itself is half the fun, watching the changing landscapes roll by as you zip along at a slower pace.

From remote hidden valleys and far-flung beaches to on-theup wine regions and curiously underrated cities, here’s a taste of where to venture beyond the crowds on a Spanish adventure.

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FOODIE FLAVOURS

Expertly sliced jamón, salty Padrón peppers, the perfect tortilla de patatas – there’s a reason why Spanish cuisine is adored all over the world. The secret is that cooking here has always been rooted in fresh, seasonal, on-the-doorstep ingredients, from pungent caveaged cheeses in Asturias to justgrilled seafood along Andalucía’s sunny shores. Big-hitter foodie cities like Madrid, Barcelona and San Sebastián might steal the gastronomic spotlight, but every pocket of the country has its own irresistible specialities, age-old culinary traditions and distinctly local flavours.

Take León, for example, a dynamic northwest city with a simmering old-town tapas scene that draws in-the-know Spaniards with its rich regional flavours, such as Valdeón cheese and salted cecina (a cured beef). Or the Basque Country’s powerhouse Bilbao, whose always-buzzy pintxo bars (many of them family-owned for generations) are some of Spain’s finest spots to eat, both in the cobbled Casco Viejo and beyond. Further west along the dramatic north coast, the wild Picos de Europa mountains (a national

park since 1918) conjure the ideal conditions for producing prizewinning blue cheeses matured in mist-shrouded caves in Cantabria and Asturias. Drop by for a tour and tasting with a local quesero (cheesemaker), or visit in late August for the Feria del Cabrales, which celebrates one of the world’s finest blue cheeses.

Down south, as any food-loving Spaniard will tell you, the Cádiz area of Andalucía unveils one of Spain’s most thrilling food scenes, fuelled by fresh ingredients from the Atlantic Ocean, the rugged Grazalema mountains and the fabled Sherry Triangle around Jerez de la Frontera. A tortillita de camarones (shrimp fritter) or a tapa of local payoyo cheese, paired with a glass of crisp dry sherry, ranks among Andalucía’s most unforgettable flavours. In 2022, Ángel León’s three-Michelin-star Aponiente, in the sherry-making town of El Puerto de Santa María, bagged a Michelin Green Star for its sustainability-driven cookery (one of 39 restaurants in Spain to receive this new award).

Then there’s the tantalising world of Spanish arroces (rice dishes). While paella has become

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PICOS DE EUROPA MOUNTAINS TAPAS BILBAO Daniel Uvegard at Unsplash Kaja Kadlecova at Unsplash

all its traditional, season-fired glory, head to rice-growing La Albufera in Valencia, paella’s fabled birthplace.

ART AND CULTURE

Over the last few years, the buzzing city of Cáceres in Extremadura has been quietly making a name for itself as a lively cultural hub, thanks to its splendid Unescoprotected Ciudad Monumental (old town) and the 2021 arrival of the respected Museo Helga de Alvear (devoted to contemporary European art). Beyond the city itself, the whole of Extremadura is an uncrowded joy. Here, among the sprawling meadows and cork forests, jamón-production has been elevated into one of the nation’s most prized art forms; dive in anywhere, but especially in celebrated Monesterio. And don’t miss the little-visited Parque Nacional de Monfragüe, just northeast of Cáceres, for some of the best birdwatching in Spain (including rare black vultures).

Or how about elegant Zaragoza? Aragón’s capital was once the playground of the unrivalled

birthplace in Fuendetodos. There’s also the mesmerising, Alhambraechoing Aljafería (Spain’s greatest Moorish monument outside Andalucía), not to mention the dazzling baroque Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar and one of the nation’s most drool-worthy tapas trails. Throw in a sidetrip to the majestic Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido for outstanding hiking.

And while Andalucía’s great cities – Granada, Seville, Córdoba – pull in countless visitors each year, few travellers make it to the underrated twin towns of Úbeda and Baeza in Jaén province. Both towns host a string of spectacular, Unescolisted Renaissance buildings, some recently reborn as tempting hotels. This landlocked region also happens to produce some of the world’s finest olive oil, which you can learn all about on an ownerled olive-mill tour. There’s more olive-oil heritage to uncover nearby in the off-the-beaten-track Sierras Subbéticas, between Córdoba and Granada, where a clutch of charming, sustainability-driven

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hotels make the perfect base for hikes between ancient pueblos blancos (white villages).

CITY THRILLS

For some of Spain’s most exciting yet undertouristed urban hubs, head to the wonderfully green northwest. Galicia’s capital Santiago de Compostela might be well-loved as the final stop on the Camino de Santiago, but it’s also a thriving modern city with a fired-up food scene, as a quick spin around the always-festive Mercado de Abastos shows. Atlantic-side A Coruña, meanwhile, rewards visitors with superb seafood, a cliff-edged coastline and a deliciously unspoilt historic centre; for 2023, the city is stepping into the spotlight with a line-up of fresh exhibitions and events for the international Picasso Year (the great Málagaborn artist Pablo Picasso lived here as a teenager). Also worthy of exploration on any Galician adventure is lively Pontevedra, with its plaza-filled old town and the fabulous albariño wineries of the Rías Baixas right on the doorstep. Or seek out Oviedo, the graceful Asturian capital, known for its

entirely unique pre-Romanesque architecture; this year sees the arrival of brand-new high-speed AVE trains to and from Madrid. The remote Parque Natural de Somiedo, an untouched mountain wonderland just southwest of Oviedo, makes the ideal add-on; head out hiking around high-altitude lakes and sweeping green-clad valleys, and you might just spot a rare brown bear.

BOUNTIFUL BEACHES

While the most popular sweeps of sand do get busy, there are plenty of lesser-known pockets where you can find your own patch of beachy bliss. Often, all it takes is exploring outside peak season (July/August) or venturing a little beyond the crowds – perhaps hiking or kayaking to a hidden cala (cove).

Over in the bewitching Balearics, jewel-like Menorca makes an irresistibly slow-going island escape and a quieter beach alternative to its busy neighbours Ibiza and Mallorca. The beautifully contrasting pinefringed coasts are defined by silken white coves in the south and rugged red-sand strands in the north, and you can stay at chicly reimagined farmhouses or thoughtfully

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converted historical mansions. In efforts to protect the island’s natural spaces, many beaches have been kept free of road access, and most are now linked by the recently restored Camí de Cavalls walking, cycling and horse-riding trail.

Strung along Andalucía’s southeast coast, Cabo de Gata is another uncrowded delight and a protected parque natural (natural park). Pair its pristine coves, sleepy whitewashed villages and dramatic desert-like landscapes with a stop in Almería city, known for its formidable Moorish Alcazaba, palm-dotted historic centre and unstoppable tapas scene.

Elsewhere, Spaniards love the wild, cliff-edged northern coastline that ripples all the way from the Basque Country to Galicia, but somehow remains largely off-radar among foreign travellers. This is a laid-back, surfloving shoreline, where the deepblue Bay of Biscay washes on to golden-white strands tucked at the foot of sheer sea cliffs. Perhaps most heavenly of all are Galicia’s Illas Cíes, a paradise of Caribbeanfeel beaches and Atlantic-view walking trails protected by the Parque Nacional das Illas Atlánticas (you’ll need to book permits and boat tickets ahead).

Even in the distant Canary Islands (one of Spain’s most popular holiday playgrounds), there are plenty of secluded sands worth seeking out. You could start with dreamy La Graciosa, a tiny, isolated island reached only by ferry from Lanzarote. And all over the Canaries, twinkling volcanic sea pools are a speciality, too – particularly on the remote, undertouristed island of El Hierro, declared a protected Unesco Geopark in 2014.

MAGICAL PLACES TO STAY

What better way to dive into Spain’s long, multi-layered history than by spending a night (or several) at a medieval monastery, a fairytale castle or a 500-year-old hotel? Across the country, from grand urban plazas to hidden-away mountain valleys, the unique state-owned

Paradores hotels are set within sensitively converted historical buildings, where you’ll be sipping your morning café con leche under original-stone arches, slumbering in evocatively designed rooms that tell their own stories, and dining in wonderful, smart restaurants showcasing typical regional dishes. At the Parador de Granada, for example, you’ll wake up in a 15thcentury convent within the grounds of one of Spain’s most enchanting monuments, the Alhambra. In remote northwest Extremadura, the Parador de Jarandilla (a peaceful 15th-century castle) puts the littletouristed, paprika-producing La Vera valley on the map. And just outside the Andalucian capital Seville, the Parador de Carmona throws open the door to the historycrammed town of Carmona with stays in a reincarnated 13th-century alcázar (fortress).

WINE ROUTES

There’s a whole lot more to the tantalising, boundary-pushing world of Spanish wines than famous Rioja and Ribera del Duero, and hunting down a few intriguing wineries can be the perfect excuse to delve into a lesser-known region – whether you fancy a tapas-and-wine tasting session, a leisurely cycling excursion through vineyards or a stay in a stylish architect-designed bodega-hotel. Wine has been made in Spain since Phoenician times, and the richly varied grape offerings (some of which have only recently been recovered) mean there are now over 70 Denominación de Origen (DO; Denomination of Origin) regions sprinkled across the country. Seek out, for example, the up-and-coming Ribeira Sacra wine region in Galicia; the less-famous sherry-like wines of Córdoba’s Montilla-Moriles DO; the off-thebeaten-track Sierra de Francia vineyards near Salamanca; or the delectably rich volcanic wines of the Canary Islands. Time your visit for August or September and you’ll inevitably stumble across a raft of riotous wine-harvest festivals too.

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Spain

THE MALDIVES

A vividly colourful reef fish, the rose-veiled fairy wrasse, Cirrhilabrus finifenmaa, is subtly but significantly different to the already-known rosy-scaled fairy wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubrisquamis) and is the first newto-science species described by a Maldivian scientist. Named after the local Dhivehi word for rose by Ahmed Najeeb, a biologist from the Maldives Marine Research Institute (MMRI), the discovery off the coast of the Maldives was part of the California Academy of Sciences’ Hope for Reefs initiative.

Five new WILDLIFE hotspots

New species are discovered all the time yet scientists estimate we have only described 10% of the planet’s wildlife, and indigenous people often know about a species long before it’s ‘discovered’ by western science. Here are five of our favourite finds from 2022, and the countries that are brimming with biodiversity

MADAGASCAR

Giving a boost to Madagascar’s already high biodiversity (more than 90% of the flora and fauna is endemic to the island) is the latest discovery of eight new species of small geckos (Lygodactylus fritz). Each no longer than an index finger, they live in the wetland forests of the coastal lowlands in the northern central east region of Madagascar, alongside other reptiles, amphibians and plants.

THAILAND

In northern Thailand’s high hill forests a new genus of tarantula has been found by JoCho Sippawat, a wildlife YouTuber with over 2.5million subscribers. He went on to describe and name Taksinus bambus, in collaboration with arachnologists Dr Narin Chomphuphuang and Chaowalit Songsangchote, and is so named because it lives inside a bamboo plant that is only found at an elevation of about 1,000m. “It is not an exaggeration to say that they are now Thailand’s rarest tarantulas,” says Dr Chomphuphuang.

COSTA RICA

In a rewilded cattle ranch in the north of Costa Rica that’s now the Tapir Valley Nature Reserve and next to the Tenorio Volcano National Park, Donald Valera-Soto has spent the past 18 years creating a home for Baird’s tapirs, peccaries and jaguars. And now, a dinky (just 2cm-long) and colourful frog – the Tapir Valley Tree Frog, or Tlalocohyla celeste) can be added to that list. Visitors are welcome to join a guided walk in the 220-acre reserve, which is fully owned and managed by community leaders.

INDONESIA

Several new species of sunbirds have been found by a group of researchers in the tropical Wakatobi Islands in central Indonesia. The discovery of Cinnyris infrenatus gives further weight to the call for the tiny archipelago and the wider Wallacea region to be protected as an endemic bird area. Much remains unknown about the area and many scientists call it ‘a living laboratory’ for the study of evolution.

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Five charities DOING GOOD IN LATIN AMERICA

HEALING VENEZUELA

An apolitical charity that helps deliver the best possible medical assistance to the people of Venezuela, Healing Venezuela provides medical supplies, sponsors junior doctors, improves infrastructure in hospitals and feeds children at risk of malnutrition.

Founded in 2016, the charity’s impact – so far – includes supporting over 400 junior doctors and providing more than 200,000 meals for children. You can support the charity by not just raising funds but also asking your local health centre if it has any medical equipment in good condition they’d be willing to donate. charitable.travel/ healing-venezuela

JUST A DROP

HOOP UK

Standing for Helping Overcome Obstacles Peru, HOOP’s mission is to eliminate poverty in the community of Flora Tristán near Arequipa in Peru. Founded in 2012, the charity is doing this by teaching English, which gives children an extra life skill and increases their chances of better employment; thereby breaking the cycle of poverty. But it’s not just aimed at children – Hoop believes education is for everyone, so it provides strategic educational programmes to give people of all ages the opportunity to advance their education and better their quality of life. charitable.travel/hoop-uk

THE GALAPAGOS CONSERVATION TRUST

As natural wonders go, it’s hard to beat the Galápagos Islands. Yet this unique and pristine ecosystem is also an incredibly fragile place, so the Galapagos Conservation Trust supports pioneering stewardship projects that work to protect species, restore habitats and find sustainable solutions. You can help protect the Galápagos by donating to the Trust, adopting a Galápagos animal or attending one of the charity’s inspiring events, which regularly feature talks by experts in their field. galapagosconservation.org.uk

THE LATA FOUNDATION

Set up by the Latin America Travel Association, which represents tourist boards, airlines, tour operators, hotels, ground handlers and more across Latin America, the LATA Foundation supports a range of social and environmental projects run by local NGOs. Currently helping many communities to recover from the Covid pandemic, the LATA Foundation’s focus is on supporting areas connected to tourism, and does so by supporting grass-roots organisations making a significant difference. charitable.travel/ lata-foundation

Taken for granted by so many, a drop of water is a basic human right, so Just A Drop works to bring sustainable, safe water, sanitation and hygiene projects to communities in need. By doing so, they help transform lives. Working on several projects around the world including one in Nicaragua, where around 20 per cent of the rural population doesn’t have access to safe water or adequate sanitation, Just A Drop constructs water distribution systems to bring water directly into households. justadrop.org

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eroM erg a t causes at charitable .t r a v e l

LUXURY IN EVERY SENSE OF THE WORD

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THE WINELANDS

Could South Africa be the world’s most rewarding travel destination?

From its wildlife-rich bushveld and vineyard-carpeted mountains to Cape Town’s dining scene and miles of golden beaches and diverse cultures, landscapes, people and wildlife, it’s clear to see why Desmond Tutu christened South Africa the Rainbow Nation.

But not only does it offer better value than Western countries, travellers support an industry that employs more than a million people, with many jobs helping impoverished families and communities. Factor in the conservation projects, educational programmes and social upliftment schemes run by lodges and hotels, and it’s clear that a visit to this culturally and naturally abundant country is a win-win for travellers and locals alike.

Safari lodges and wildlife viewing

South Africa’s famous wildlife is the main draw for many first-time visitors, who appreciate both the abundance and the accessibility of the renowned Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and African buffalo). Tarred roads lead into Kruger National Park, the epic chunk of bush along the Mozambique and Zimbabwe borders, which makes spotting warthogs and wildebeest as easy as picking up a hire car. That said, it’s well worth booking your first safari experience through one of the private reserves fringing Kruger and dotting the country, where you will be guided by a ranger who knows their leopard spoor from their hyena tracks. As well as allowing you to embark on dawn and dusk wildlife drives with a passionate expert, visiting a luxury lodge – such as MalaMala Game Reserve’s riverside camps – funds conservation projects, provides employment and supports the upliftment of impoverished

rural communities. Follow MalaMala guide Mrisho Juma on Instagram (@ mrisholuge) for a taste of the big cat encounters you can expect at this 33,000-acre reserve bordering Kruger. Three hours’ drive north of Johannesburg, Limpopo province’s Waterberg range is a UNESCObiosphere reserve and the home of Lepogo Lodges’ stunningly situated Noka Camp. Perched on a 100ft cliff with views down the winding Palala River, it offers open-air Sky Beds, hikes to KhoiSan rock art and safaris by riverboat or foot. Combining

wildlife with an experience of Zulu culture, Thanda Safari offers a lodge, tented camp and Afro-chic villa on a 35,000-acre reserve in KwaZulu-Natal province’s subtropical Elephant Coast.

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In South Africa, you don’t need to compromise in order to do good – James Bainbridge finds the country effortlessly marries sustainability and conservation with quality at every turn
THANDA SAFARI
Visiting a luxury lodge funds conservation projects, provides employment and supports impoverished rural communities

High-end city lifestyle

There’s as much diversity and cultural richness in South Africa’s urban scene as there is with its wildlife, exemplified by the glamorous city at the foot of Table Mountain. Cape Town takes many first-time visitors to Africa by surprise, offering a scarcely believable backdrop of contemporary villas and umbrella pines climbing mountain passes above beachfringed bays teeming with marine life. Between the city towers and Table Bay, the V&A Waterfront is one of Africa’s most popular tourist attractions, a pedestrianised complex of craft markets, boutiques, restaurants and bars.

Staying in one of the area’s landmark hotels is a treat, placing the busker-soundtracked plazas, cruise boats and cocktail menus on your doorstep, and One & Only Cape Town ’s rooms and suites built on artificial islands at the waterfront are prime marina property. Guests can explore the waterways by stand-up paddleboard, dine on Nobu’s signature black cod miso at Africa’s only branch of the Japanese-Peruvian chain, and join township-born sommelier Luvo Ntezo for an introduction to Cape wines. Meanwhile the

nearby Silo Hotel is becoming a global icon with its 28 rooms and suites atop the Zeitz MOCAA (Museum of Contemporary Art Africa), a grain silo reimagined by visionary British architect Thomas Heatherwick to house 80 galleries of multimedia creativity. South Africa’s 370-year-old Mother City may be the country’s oldest city, but it’s in bustling Johannesburg that you can feel Africa’s exhilarating 21st-century pulse. Like the continent’s answer

Between the city towers and Table Bay, the V&A Waterfront is one of Africa’s most popular tourist attractions

to New York, the City of Gold attracts migrants from far and wide as it once did prospectors, while well-heeled locals patronise glitzy nightspots and malls. Among the jacaranda-lined avenues of the wealthy northern suburbs, Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa is a luxury haven of plush suites, gardens full of native plants and languorous afternoon teas in the Piano Lounge.

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NOKA CAMP ONE & ONLY CAPE TOWN

Luxury reserves

Conservationists invented the Small Five (the elephant shrew, antlion, rhinoceros beetle, buffalo weaver and leopard tortoise) as a reminder that show-stealing predators aren’t the only interesting aspect of South Africa’s natural world. In this spirit, some of the country’s finest luxury reserves

protect not hefty carnivores, but significant tracts of nature.

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is a world leader in sustainability for its 8,650 acres of fynbos on the Cape Overberg coast, which has yielded seven new plant species. While staying in a contemporary lodge or villa, you can spot the Marine Big Five (shark, whale, dolphin, penguin and seal) on a Walker Bay boat tour and experience the biodiverse Cape floral kingdom by mountain bike, horseback or light aircraft.

Tswalu conserves the very

different environment of the semi-desert Kalahari with its secluded safari camps amid 250,000 acres of grassy savannah and ochre dunes. Watch meerkats emerge from their burrows, sleep beneath the stars, spot a black-maned Kalahari lion on safari and taste Northern Cape cuisine at celebrity chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen’s Restaurant Klein JAN.

Many of the finest reserves are found in the northern veld, but there are also wildlifewatching options if you’re flying straight to Cape Town. The NGO-owned Sanbona Wildlife Reserve covers a chunk of semi-arid Little Karoo almost the size of Singapore, with lions, cheetahs, rhinos and elephants among its dry koppies, while upmarket reserves cluster around Addo Elephant National Park in the Eastern Cape. One of the best is Shamwari Private Game Reserve, which has the Big Five alongside wildlife rehabilitation centres, luxurious lodges and a wilderness camp.

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TSWALU MALAMALA GAME RESERVE

World-class food and drink Topculturalfive experiences

Cape Town and the neighbouring towns of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek have taken their place as world-class gastronomic destinations, building on the growing reputation of their wine. The Dutch East India Company was quick to recognise the suitability of the Cape’s Mediterranean

company Coffeebeans Routes’ The Colour of Wine Safari highlights the growing legion of black winemakers. A great place to start exploring Cape Town’s rich culinary culture, with its influences from Africa, Europe and Asia dating to its days on the maritime trade routes, is Makers Landing food market at the Cruise Terminal. The fertile region’s hamper of produce, coupled with opportunities to uplift locals and mount creative projects in the dynamic environment of post-apartheid South Africa, has attracted such international chefs as Luke Dale Roberts of The Test Kitchen, alongside Mmabatho Molefe from the Zulu-inspired Emazulwini Restaurant. As diners discover at Irishborn Liam Tomlin’s Chefs Warehouse restaurants, a tasting menu of exquisite contemporary cuisine costs a fraction of London or Paris prices.

Throughout South Africa, food is a big part of local culture and visitors eat well – from Cape Malay dishes and steaks in rustic restaurants to tastes of coastal foraging, such as Paternoster’s Wolfgat and the Veld & Sea workshops at Cape Point.

Ask your accommodation to organise these immersive activities.

BUSH CRAFT

Learn the tracking and foraging skills employed by the Khoisan people.

GALLERY TOURS

Art-focused boutique hotels, such as Cape Town’s Silo Hotel and Ellerman House, offer guided tours of galleries and studios.

PROJECT VISITS

Look behind the safari scenes by visiting the lodges’ conservation centres, community programmes and local villages.

CRAFT WORKSHOPS

climate for viticulture, planting vines and oak trees for barrels soon after it founded Cape Town as a maritime refreshment station in 1652.

You can taste this heritage and learn some local history on grand Cape Dutch wine farms, such as Groot Constantia, Babylonstoren and Vergelegen. Many estates provide a complete day out, offering restaurants, gourmet picnics, children’s activities and hiking or biking trails through the vineyards, including Constantia Uitsig, Boschendal, Spier and Joostenberg

Craft beer and fynbos-infused gin are also booming, while cultural tour

Take part in Xhosa beadwork with Iphupho Creative Designs in Knysna, Venda woodcarving at Limpopo’s mountaintop Leshiba Wilderness, and more.

TOWNSHIP TOURS

The best visits, offered by the likes of Coffeebeans Routes, focus on a theme such as jazz, political history or cuisine.

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Many estates provide a complete day out, offering restaurants, gourmet picnics and trails through vineyards
LUNCH AT BABYLONSTOREN

Adventure activities

South Africa rewards intrepid travellers with immersive views of its diverse environments, whether you venture into the bush, underwater or – on the Cape Canopy Tour – high above the remote kloofs of the Hottentots Holland Mountains. This zipline adventure allows you to fly like an African fish eagle, learning about the Cape floral kingdom en route,

The Garden Route is a hub for adventurous activities, including the 709ft bungee jump from Bloukrans Bridge, kayaking tannin-stained lagoons and following bygone woodcutters, gold prospectors and elephants into Knysna’s old-growth forests. Cross Storms River Mouth on a 250ft-long suspension bridge or take to the water below on a Blackwater Tubing expedition through the fern-clad canyons of Tsitsikamma

National Park

and it’s one of seven Canopy Tours nationwide, found in areas from the Drakensberg range to the Garden Route’s Tsitsikamma Forest.

Climbers relish the challenges of Cogmanskloof (near Montagu in the Little Karoo), the Cederberg range and Emgwenya (aka Waterval Boven) on the Drakensberg Escarpment

You can appreciate the latter’s

SUPERTUBES

vertiginous landscape, where the mountains crash into the lowveld on the clifftop drive alongside the dramatic Blyde River Canyon and at Graskop Gorge – home to a glass elevator ride, a suspension bridge and the Big Swing freefall above dense forest. Another scenic way of taking to the cobalt sky is on a Cape Town Tandem Paragliding flight from 2,195ft at Lion’s Head or Signal Hill to the Atlantic beaches below.

East coast dive spots make the most of the balmy Indian Ocean, while Jeffreys Bay is famous for the Supertubes surf break, but the best-known ocean activity is cage-diving from Gansbaai (near Hermanus) to meet great white sharks in Walker Bay. Hiking adventures range from walking safaris to long-distance slackpacking routes, such as the five-day Whale Trail through De Hoop Nature Reserve and the Kruger Wilderness Trails

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East coast dive spots make the most of the balmy Indian Ocean, while Jeffreys Bay is famous for the Supertubes surf break

Live authentic, immersive and high-end experiences whilst giving back to the community and meeting our friendly locals. Plan your trip to South Africa today!

Find out more on Charitable.Travel/South-Africa

AUTUMN

Visitors are often surprised to find out that autumn is a great time to view the Northern Lights. And in Finland, there are plenty of extraordinary places to stay to view them from, including aurora domes, snow castles, glass cabins, wilderness lodges and tree houses.

SPRING

Home to an estimated three million saunas, it’s a way of life for Finnish society. Visit in spring to feel revitalised and sample a sauna at your accommodation or find a public one in the city. In Helsinki, Löyly is one of the most iconic and well-known public saunas, or take a dip in the icy lake or Baltic sea to make your sauna experience truly Finnish.

SUMMER

The Lakeland area – in Central and eastern Finland – has 180,000 lakes. Great to visit throughout the year, it comes into its own in summer, when the weather is mild and the days are longest. Recharge and reconnect with nature and, depending on the time of year, enjoy everything from cruises and fishing to stand up paddleboarding and swimming.

viewsFour of FINLAND

Nature thrives in every season in Finland, making it ideal to visit at any time of the year

WINTER

Finland is a proper winter wonderland, and the season kicks off in November in Lapland (a bit later in the south). With all that snow and ice around, there are plenty of activities to enjoy, including skiing, snowmobiling, fat biking, ice-skating, husky and reindeer safaris, visiting Santa and Christmas markets.

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Discover the past and the present in Vilnius

In 2023, Vilnius is celebrating its 700th anniversary. Yet, exploring the Lithuanian capital can be a true revelation for travellers searching for new experiences. Exciting artistic, cultural, and gastronomic adventures await around every corner of the city throughout this and next year. Book your holiday today and embrace an array of exceptional discoveries in Vilnius.

charitable.travel/go-vilnius

At 5.45am Arild pokes me in the arm to tell me the stars are out. At first I was at a loss as to why my morning slumber had been so rudely disturbed. Then I remembered expressly demanding that I wanted to woken should the clouds that had obscured the stars the previous night lift.

By the time I stagger from our room, Roberta Silva, who manages the Rifugio Roda di Vael in the Dolomite mountains where I’m staying has come to collect me – clearly I had been adamant that I must see the stars the previous evening.

To both Arild and Roberta I will be eternally grateful. Using the telescopes that stargazers Alberto and Andrea had demonstrated to us the previous evening I can clearly see Orion’s Belt and Mars. It’s an incredible experience, and not that we needed any telescope to appreciate the twinkling early morning sky.

The day before we had taken the cable car from Vigo di Fassa, a small commune in the Trentino region to Conca del Ciampedie. From there

SEEING STARS IN Trentino IN THE ITALIAN

ALPS

we hiked 4.5km to Roberta’s refuge at an altitude of 2,283 metres.

Arriving at Conca del Ciampedie, the weather was against us. Clouds had engulfed the mountains and I feared the worst. But our guide Cesare assured us that soon we would ascend above the clouds and that there would be amazing views of the jagged Dolomites from the refuge.

The hike started with a steep climb but then flattened out along a plateau and soon we could distinguish Marmolada, the highest peak in the Dolomites at 3,343 metres.

After a couple of hours we reached Roberta’s refuge and settled down for some lunch, including the most amazing beetroot dumpling stuffed with gorgonzola, and a beer or two.

Roberta has managed Roda de Vael since 2005. Previously a snowboard instructor, running a refuge was a dream she shared with her husband, who sadly passed away a few years after they took over the refuge.

Despite the personal tragedy, this extremely impressive woman has raised her family here and become

the president of the Mountain Hut Association of Trentino.

There are some 145 huts in the region, some belonging to the Alpine Club and others privately owned. Traditionally, managing a mountain hut was seen as a male job, but now Roberta says there are about ten women running the refuges. Clearly she feels at home here.

“The mountains are my family,” she says. “I belong to the mountains.”

In recent years she has seen an increase in the number of people visiting the area, adding that everyone is trying to do their best to reduce the damage to nature. She has introduced solar panels to reduce their own carbon footprint. She advises everyone who comes here to “slow down and respect nature.”

charitable.travel/travel-beginsat-40

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marks by Elias Bikbulatov
Mountain refuges provide an essential life-line at high altitude. Mark Bibby Jackson discovers they work in many ways –benefitting more than just the hikers
ROBERTA SILVA

Top ten EUROPEAN SPA RESORTS

Charitable Travel’s Ali Nicholls shares her 10 best spa resorts in Europe. Book into one of these exclusive hotels and be sure that your well-being, in every sense, will be put first and foremost

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ÉVIAN RESORT, ÉVIAN-LES-BAINS, FRANCE

Within an estate of over 245 acres, the Évian Resort sits among the foothills of the Haute Savoie mountain peaks at the gateway to the Alps. Much more than a luxury hotel complex, the Évian Resort is a village of its own, with two stunning hotels each with their own spas plus, of course, the Évian® thermal spa; a Kid’s Resort; the Évian Resort Golf Club; and the Grange au Lac, one of the most beautiful concert halls in the world. The resort, named after its home town on the shore of Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) and the source of the eponymous bottled mineral water is, despite its glitziness, really somewhere for the whole family to relax.

MAS SALAGROS, BARCELONA, SPAIN

What is now Mas Salagros EcoResort was formerly an old farmhouse dating from 1497, just outside Vallromanes, 30 minutes from Barcelona. Its location, together with the history of the estate and the area, inspired the owners to create the first 100% ecological destination on the Iberian peninsula, set in a stunning natural environment – the protected park of the Serralada Litoral. In Mas Salagros two restaurants serve organic, seasonal produce and the AIRE Ancient Baths spa is set in a candlelit 15th century farmhouse.

D-RESORT, ŠIBENIK, CROATIA

D-Resort Šibenik is a stylish, design-led hotel that blends with the beautiful landscape of the Central Dalmatian coast and combines the old world with the sleek, modern elegance of the new. Only 30 minutes from some of Croatia’s most beautiful national parks and less than an hour’s drive from Split and Zadar, it is the perfect starting point for discovering Croatia’s hidden treasures. Enjoy a world-class, tailor-made spa experience provided by highly qualified experts and therapists in the most peaceful of settings, or opt for a full-body sculpting workout, all with views of the Adriatic sea.

COQUILLADE RESORT, PROVENCE, FRANCE

Picture it now. An enchanted village of six residences, veiled behind the surrounding vineyards and olive trees, set to the sultry serenade of the south of France’s eternal cicadas. Deep in the Provençal hills, five-star nights are tinged with the evocative fragrance of lavender and pine.

Replenish heart, body and soul amid the vines and explore the wellness centre, sink back into the indoor pool, and work up a gentle sweat at the yoga studio, before unwinding in the sauna, hammam, or jacuzzi, where the very latest hydrotherapy facilities await.

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Drew Dizzy Graham at Unsplash

CASTILLA TERMAL MONASTERIO DE VALBUENA, VALLADOLID, SPAIN

Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena occupies Europe’s best preserved 12th century Cistercian monastery sitting in the Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s 11 ‘quality wine’ regions. Check into one of its 79 exquisite rooms, and discover a complete wellness experience in the innovative spa’s mineral-medicinal waters. The resort’s signature Contrast Circuit is perfect for relaxing and stimulating all your senses with contrasts of cold and heat to purify your body, decongesting the respiratory tract and stimulating the blood.

ELEVEN DEPLAR FARM, TROLL PENINSULA, ICELAND

The Troll Peninsula of Iceland embodies untamed purity; a stark ruggedness marked by the realness of the elements. Eleven Life inspires guests to integrate nature’s cadence into their own rhythm and connect with the realest part of themselves. In the summer, wilderness walks, fat biking, and sea kayaking are marked by intense sensory awakenings, while winter brings cross country skiing and snowshoeing excursions designed to exhilarate the body. For an holistic approach throughout the year, functional fitness classes and yoga complement the outdoor adventures.

AS GOOD AS IT GETS

Whether you’re dreaming of a silky beach on a private island, a stylish hotel in a vibrant city or a jungle trek to spy exotic wildlife, Charitable Travel Luxury will help you plan your ideal holiday and donate 5% of the price to a UK charity of your choice at no extra cost.

Wherever it is, a luxury holiday always centres on discovering unique destinations and enjoying authentic experiences. With over 25 years’ experience in luxury travel and Charitable Travel’s #TravelForGood ethos at heart, our expert Lizzi is waiting to craft a trip that is your kind of luxury.

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luxury@charitable.travel / 020 3092 2558 charitable.travel/luxury mihtiander at 123RF

LEFAY RESORT, LAKE GARDA, ITALY

Lefay Resort & SPA Lago di Garda beautifully combines luxury, wellness and nature. Set on the western shore of Lake Garda – the Riviera dei Limoni – and above the town of Gargnano, Lefay Resort is surrounded by 11 hectares of parkland and natural terraces rich in olive groves and with a spectacular view of the lake. The Lefay SPA has created an innovative wellness method that blends classical Chinese medicine with western scientific research to rebalance the energy of body and mind.

MARBELLA CLUB HOTEL, MARBELLA, SPAIN

A special corner of the world, the Marbella Club Hotel enjoys a gentle micro climate, sea air and mountain views. Set by the beach, this storied finca is rich in traditions that embrace the Andalusian spirit. Learn meditation from a master or try a dynamic new exercise in this soul-stirring setting as you practice high-energy fitness or wind down with mindfulness, and don’t leave without harnessing the power of the sea at the Thalasso Spa through their seawater pool, treatments and rituals.

ALPINA RESORT, DOLOMITES, ITALY

Set on Europe’s most beautiful and largest highaltitude plateau – the Alpe di Siusi, or Seiser Alm, depending if you want the Italian or German name – a stay at the Alpina Resort provides total immersion into a marvellous natural environment. Designed according to eco-friendly concepts and harmoniously integrated into the surrounding environment, the Alpina Dolomites offers a wide range of activities for sports and nature lovers, as well as refined hospitality and genuine expertise for stays dedicated to overall wellbeing.

SANTA BARBARA RESORT, THE AZORES, PORTUGAL

Along the picturesque northern coast of São Miguel in the Azores, the unique, almost magical, green pastures and mountain hues that contrast with the azure blue oceans are the ideal backdrop for a calming resort retreat. Overlooking the grand beach of Santa Barbara, this is the Azores’ first ecologicallyfriendly beach resort. With a privileged view over the 3.3 acre property, the wellness centre is dedicated to relaxing the mind and stimulating the body, providing a wide-range of exclusive services and treatments, such as their signature rituals, relaxation massages, alternative therapies and supportive yoga classes.

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IN THE

lead

Join us for Leeds 2023 as the city throws itself, heart and soul, into a year of culture and creativity, the likes of which have never been seen in the city before. The city’s response to the cancellation in 2017 of the UK’s participation in the European Capital of Culture competition was to ‘do it anyway’, and Leeds 2023 is the result.

Launched with a huge Awakening celebration in Headingley Stadium, thousands of Leeds residents enjoyed a spectacular show, hosted by former Commonwealth gymnast Gabby Logan MBE and BBC broadcaster and former Leeds United footballer Sanchez Payne. Performances from Opera North, poet laureate Simon Armitage with his band LYR, and a heart-warming appearance from young presenter George Webster and his father kept the crowd buzzing despite the January weather, and the event closed with a fantastic finale from Corinne Bailey Rae. That evening, something really did ‘awaken’ in the heart of the city.

There’s a jam-packed programme of events throughout the year, with so many huge venues involved. Opera North, Northern Ballet, Leeds Art Gallery, the Henry Moore Institute, the Royal Armouries and the Tetley, to name a few, are all playing their part.

Plus there are plenty of outdoor installations, such as a Finnish sauna experience, ‘Making a Stand’ – a huge representation of the Forest of Leodis (from which today’s city arose) in the City Square, and even a new Leeds sauce, flavoured with ale from every single pub on the infamous two-mile pub crawl, the Otley Run.

The year is divided into three stages: January to April is ‘The Awakening’; May to August is ‘Playing’; and September to December is ‘Dreaming’.

“Our Year of Culture is designed to wake up our senses and reveal our city in brand new and surprising ways; in ways perhaps that you never expected or noticed previously,” says Kully Thiarai, Leeds 2023’s creative director and CEO.

“We know that when this city speaks it has a proper story to tell. And it is our ambition to be the spotlight and foghorn for all the glorious creativity that is behind every door, in every home: broadcasting the brilliance of Leeds beyond the region and to all of us who live and work in the city.”

MY HIGHLIGHTS

During ‘The Awakening’, I’m looking forward to A Barn Raising. Leeds 2023 is recruiting 300 women, girls, and non-binary people from the city and beyond

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Ilham Fitrotul Hayat.
Calling all culture vultures! There has never been a better time to visit Leeds than 2023, says local expert Sally Bendall, aka Girl About Leeds
CORRINE BAILEY RAE GABBY LOGAN WOW – WOMEN OF THE WORLD FOUNDATION

with an interest in architecture and engineering, and they plan to ‘raise’ a barn in just 24 hours. This is a partnership with WOW – Women of the World foundation, a London based movement that believes a gender equal world is urgently needed, possible and desirable. The barn will then be used to house the first ever WOW Festival to be held outside of London.

In ‘Playing’, I can’t wait to get involved with ‘The Smeaton 300’, a stunning and magical mobile observatory, inspired by Leeds-born engineer John Smeaton, that’ll tour the city from June. Visitors will be encouraged to get playful and explore the role of science in art.

Lastly, during ‘Dreaming’, I’m looking forward to ‘All That Lives’, a

city-wide, nine-day celebration of those we’ve loved and lost in true Mexican Day of the Dead style. On a personal note, this will coincide with the first anniversary of losing my dad, so I have big plans to create a colourful ‘Ofrenda’ display with photographs, candles and colourful things as an act of remembrance. Not a sombre moment, but a celebration of love remembered.

There really is a buzz in the city, an excitement about what the year holds for us, what creativity is in store, and I for one can’t wait to find out, so come and join us for Leeds 2023 and follow me on Instagram (@girlaboutleeds) for all the latest.

Girl About Travel

Girl About Travel is a unique online platform created by travel industry experts – a journalist and a tourism marketing and comms specialist –and provides content for women who want to make amazing memories with their loved ones, either in the UK or overseas. A trusted partner of Charitable Travel, Girl About Travel’s content is created by a network of female writers, AKA the Girl About Blog Squad – the official Girl Abouts in their cities and counties. Find and follow them on Instagram.

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“Our Year of Culture is designed to wake up our senses and reveal our city in brand new and surprising ways”

LET’S CASH in the chips

WHAT IS BILLYCHIP?

BillyChip is a safe currency to support homeless people. Customers can buy a BillyChip from supporting businesses for a £2 donation then gift it to a homeless person as an alternative to cash. Creating a secure way to provide help and support if you don’t carry cash, it also removes the fear that your donation could be used to support a harmful addiction; the recipient can redeem the BillyChip token in any participating outlet for, at least, a hot or cold takeaway drink of choice.

WHERE DID THE IDEA FOR BILLYCHIP COME FROM?

As the name suggests, it was Billy’s idea. Billy Abernethy-Hope was a 20-year-old ambulance driver who was disappointed at the lack of direct donations the public

gave to people on the streets. Billy recognised the isolation rough sleepers felt and wanted to create a scheme that would overcome the barriers the public saw to giving cash and interacting with homeless people. Tragically, Billy lost his life in a motorbike accident while travelling in Thailand in 2018 so his family continued with his scheme and launched it in his memory.

HOW CAN PEOPLE HELP?

BillyChip needs more outlets –coffee shops, restaurants and takeaways to adopt the scheme and start offering chips locally. To support this, we need more volunteers to spread the word or develop links with outlets in towns and cities across the UK. To find out more about BillyChip or to sign up as an outlet or volunteer, visit www. billychip.com

WHAT IS YOUR IMPACT?

Many homeless people and rough sleepers describe themselves as invisible and often feel rejected by society. The BillyChip is a safe way for people to directly donate to someone sleeping rough. Homeless people report that having a BillyChip donated to them has a positive impact on their mental health, as asking for change is humiliating and degrading. Having the choice to use the BillyChip token when and where they choose and to be able to meet their own dietary requirements is empowering. Such simple choices are typically removed from those facing life on the streets; choice provides dignity which equals positive change.

WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE CHANGE IN YOUR AREA?

We are disrupters and champions of change and we are working

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Jon Hope, co-founder of BillyChip, tells us how they’re empowering homeless people and encouraging more people and businesses to easily offer support
JON HOPE

tirelessly to get the BillyChip scheme into every coffee shop chain on the high street. Our scheme is free to operate, we pay outlets for the hot or cold takeaway drinks they provide, and all our profits go to homeless charities. This means big businesses who operate our free scheme can connect communities, support homeless people, and deliver their CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) at no cost to their business. It just makes sense, and we’d love to see more businesses recognise the benefits.

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGE?

The BillyChip is a completely unique business model. Billy has created a circular social economy which creates wealth, but it will take a certain level of investment and time to get the scheme to a place where it is selffunding and generating money for charities, as well as providing sustenance for homeless people. We are a small team and don’t have the resources to fund raise, operate the scheme, market ourselves, attract new outlets and apply for largescale funding all at the same time. So our biggest challenge is securing funding. Big charities have the resources to apply for significant funding while fledgling enterprises are often left with the scraps, which makes scaling up your social enterprise all the more challenging. But we are young,

enthusiastic and passionate about making a global change and we will continue regardless of the challenges we face.

WHAT IS A SOCIAL ENTERPRISE TO YOU?

We never set out to create a social enterprise, we were gifted this concept as a legacy from a visionary young man whose kindness, generosity and compassion was a lesson for us all. If everyone did one kind thing a day to benefit a stranger, we would live in a very different world. All businesses should be social enterprises, all workers should be stakeholders in a co-operative. Excessive wealth and greed, which is always connected to exploitation somewhere along the line, should not be something we celebrate

or aspire to achieve, but we live in a capitalistic economy where extreme wealth is celebrated and is recognised as an achievement, regardless of the cost to others.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR BILLYCHIP?

It has been an amazing journey for us and we’ve achieved incredible things in a very short period. If you throw in a global pandemic and all the other challenges we’ve overcome I’m very positive BillyChip has a bright future ahead. We have interest from across the world for BillyChip – sadly, communities everywhere recognise the tremendous hardship people are facing with the cost-of-living crisis. Pretty much every town and city in the UK has both coffee shops and homeless people so we are rolling out with a number of nationwide high street brands this year and continue to put plans in place to take BillyChip global, so we can share the kindness and deliver compassion, connections and choice to people across the world, as Billy envisioned.

A little chip...

...can make a big difference. To find out more about how to support BillyChip, visit billychip.com

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THE BRITISH THYROID FOUNDATION in numbers

Thyroid disorders are up to 10 times more common in women

Being diagnosed with a thyroid disorder can greatly impact people’s lives. The British Thyroid Foundation (BTF) provides information and support to help people live better with thyroid disease, and also funds vital research to improve outcomes for people living with thyroid disorders.

UP TO 1 IN 20 PEOPLE IN THE UK HAS A THYROID DISORDER

£540,000 HAS BEEN INVESTED INTO THYROID RESEARCH OVER THE PAST 25 YEARS

30,000-PLUS FREE PATIENT LEAFLETS ARE DISTRIBUTED TO HOSPITALS EACH YEAR TO HELP PATIENTS UNDERSTAND MORE ABOUT THEIR CONDITION

2,000-PLUS HOURS OF TELEPHONE PEER SUPPORT ARE OFFERED ANNUALLY TO HELP PEOPLE FEEL LESS ALONE

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THYROID DISEASE IS OFTEN AN ‘INVISIBLE ILLNESS’ – SYMPTOMS CAN BE CONFUSED WITH OTHER CONDITIONS

AROUND 3,900 PEOPLE ARE DIAGNOSED WITH THYROID CANCER EACH YEAR

ONE CHILD IN EVERY 2-3,000 IN THE UK IS BORN WITH THYROID DISEASE AND WILL NEED TO BE ON LIFE-LONG MEDICATION

3,000-plus thyroid patients are assisted by BTF’s medical query answering service each year, getting help with questions they’re struggling with

Over 10,000 people visit BTF’s website each day to find out more about thyroid disease

A TINY GLAND, THE THYROID HAS A HUGE

EFFECT ON BOTH OUR PHYSICAL AND EMOTIONAL HEALTH

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Registered Charity Nos: 1006391, SC046037

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Plus, when you book with Charitable Travel you can donate 5% of your holiday cost to a charity of your choice… completely free!

charitable.travel / 020 3092 1288 / bookings@charitable.travel Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, Kent BR1 1LW ALL PACKAGE HOLIDAYS ARE ATOL AND TRUST PROTECTED. Book with confidence #TRAVELFORGOOD WITH CHARITABLE TRAVEL 2023 IN
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THE BRITISH THYROID FOUNDATION in numbers

0
pages 74-75

LET’S CASH in the chips

3min
pages 72-73

IN THE lead

3min
pages 70-71

AS GOOD AS IT GETS

1min
pages 68-69

Top ten EUROPEAN SPA RESORTS

2min
pages 66-68

SEEING STARS IN Trentino IN THE ITALIAN

1min
page 65

Discover the past and the present in Vilnius

0
pages 64-65

Adventure activities

2min
pages 61-63

World-class food and drink Topculturalfive experiences

1min
page 60

Luxury reserves

1min
page 59

High-end city lifestyle

1min
page 58

Safari lodges and wildlife viewing

1min
page 57

LUXURY IN EVERY SENSE OF THE WORD

0
page 57

Five charities DOING GOOD IN LATIN AMERICA

1min
page 55

Five new WILDLIFE hotspots

1min
page 53

Spain A taste of LESSER KNOWN

7min
pages 46, 48-53

Postcard from BATH

0
pages 45-46

Up close with the ice

3min
pages 41-45

Where emperors rule the land

1min
pages 39-40

Postcard fromATHENS

0
page 37

Events in spring

4min
pages 33-35, 37

Local specialities

0
page 33

END SLAVERY. CHANGE LIVES.

1min
pages 27-31

A line with a view

1min
pages 25-27

Slowdayssunny

0
page 23

Take it easy

1min
pages 20-22

WHY I donate...

2min
page 19

A day in THE LIFE OF...

2min
page 17

LESSER-KNOWN Spain

1min
page 15

ARMCHAIR travel time

0
page 14

GLOBAL good news

2min
pages 12-14

WHERE TO GO when

1min
pages 11-12

upLighting Uluru

1min
pages 8-10

Finding JOY

2min
pages 2-3, 5-7
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