Charitable Traveller - November-December23 - Issue19 by Charitable Traveller Magazine

50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful

50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaning November/December 2023

A breath of air

ISSUE 19

This winter, seek out destinations with far-flung horizons and plenty of space to explore

CONSERVATION IN KAZA

Africa's trans-frontier park is a place to be reckoned with

THE SOIL OF ST LUCIA

A charity is working wonders to empower its female farmers

WEST SWEDEN

Get to know this inviting part of Scandinavia

Where NEXT? FROM THE EDITOR

Rebecca Miles

At a glitzy industry trade awards event recently, there was one common thread running through the diverse crowd – ‘Where are you going to next?’ That hunger to see the best of the world is a powerful call, and unites all us travel lovers. In this, the latest issue of Charitable Traveller magazine, we answer that in a few ways. Firstly, with a feature by a brilliant writer, Mike Unwin, on KAZA – a ground-breaking and vast trans-frontier conservation area in Africa that spans five countries and is having a

KAZA is a ground-breaking and vast transfrontier conservation area in Africa that spans five countries and is a having a positive impact on the local communities and wildlife positive impact on the delicately entwined local communities and wildlife. Secondly, with a round up of our favourite alternative winter sun destinations; deliberately steering clear of places suffering from overtourism at certain times of year, these places deserve our support and deliver plenty of vitamin D. You’ll also find an innovative farmers’ charity in St Lucia, rest and relaxation in West Sweden, the smaller towns of Sicily and lots more besides in the following pages. Plenty of inspiration for when someone asks you where you’re going to next.

©CHARITABLE TRAVEL 2023. CHARITABLE TRAVELLER is part of CHARITABLE TRAVEL, Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, BR1 1LW, UK. Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes. Our animal protection policy can be viewed here. T: 020 3092 1288 E: bookings@charitable.travel W: charitable.travel While every effort is made to ensure accuracy, CHARITABLE TRAVEL cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. FRONT COVER: © Roger Borgelid/Westsweden.com ICONS: thenounproject.com & flaticon.com. CEO: Melissa Tilling; MARKETING: Ally Ware, Rosie Buddell, Adam Pedley & Maddy Foot; SALES: Ali Nicholls; MAGAZINE EDITOR: Rebecca Miles (editor@charitable.travel); MAGAZINE DESIGNER: Claire Gates

2 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

26 60 40 38

36 50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful

100% meaningful November/December 2023 50% travel, 50% charity, ISSUE 19

A breath of air

CONSERVATION IN KAZA

Africa's trans-frontier park is a place to be reckoned with

4 9 10 13 15 16 17 18

THE SOIL OF ST LUCIA

to A charity is working wonders empower its female farmers

Get the picture Win Lonely Planet’s Gourmet Trails of Europe Global good news Armchair travel Ask the expert We solve your travel dilemmas 4 Views Of... Germany Green traveller How to lower your carbon Alternative winter sun Our pick of unusual spots

INSIDE

this issue

with far-flung This winter, seek out destinations to explore horizons and plenty of space

WEST SWEDEN

Get to know this inviting part of Scandinavia

26 28

Get to know West Sweden Conservation in KAZA A huge transfrontier park in Africa, we take a tour 35 Postcard from Munich 36 Get to know Atlantic City 38 5 travel... towns in Sicily 40 St Lucia’s female farmers How the charity Helen’s Daughters is changing lives 48 5 charities... homelessness 49 Why I Donate to Crohn’s &

Colitis UK 50 Top 10 responsible hotels and resorts in Asia 55 Postcard from Key West 56 Girl About Travel goes to the Kent vineyards 62 Day in the life with Lia’s Wings’ medical director 60 Social enterprise Q&A with Naturesave 63 In numbers Diversity Role Modesls

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GET THE

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picture

4 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

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del Turisme Menorca © Fundació Foment

Menorca’s Stonehenge

This collection of Talayotic prehistoric monuments on Menorca, known as Trepucó, has been officially recognised for its cultural importance and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The exceptional number of well-preserved monuments demonstrate the different stages of prehistoric Menorca, and are unique to the island. They include funerary naves and circular houses, which show how Cyclopean architecture (ancient masonry made with irregular blocks) evolved over 1,500 years and give an insight into the Talayotic people during the Bronze Age and the Iron Age.

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Chris Scott

Get the picture

Go north for festive fun

For a change this festive season, why not head north to Edinburgh? The Scottish capital’s historic city centre is transformed into a Christmas wonderland for seven weeks from Friday 17th November, and visitors will find traditional Christmas Markets, classic funfair rides, lives events, and plenty of hot chocolate and mulled wine. Kick off your visit at this, the East Princes Street Gardens Christmas Market, with stunning views of Edinburgh Castle, the Scott Monument and the city’s higgledy-piggledy skyline. You’ll find 70 stalls featuring some of the best local and international producers, plus Scotland’s largest Ferris Wheel.

6 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

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Sustainable Holidays in Destination Germany

Tübingen

001 Productions, LLC

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Honouring and remembering

The city of San Antonio in Texas holds the grandest Dia de Muertos celebrations in the United States. A Mexican tradition, this time of year is filled with numerous events and festivities to remember the departed and share memories of loved ones. To celebrate their lives, families and friends join lively processions and parades, and embrace traditional dress and altar building, such as this one. In a city bursting at the seams with Latin heritage and culture, San Antonio provides many opportunities to commemorate this rich tradition, from the end of October to the beginning of November.

8 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

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Win!

LONELY PLANET’S

Joy of Wild Swimming The latest guidebook dives head first into the best spots to try wild swimming Covering 180 of the world’s most enticing wild swimming spots, this joyful book provides all the inspiration you need to jump in. Featuring fascinating insights from wild swimming expert Freya Bromley and real-life experiences from swimming writers and local voices including Jo Tinsley, Oral Thomas and Adam Skolnick, each page transports you to another place. In the Lonely Planet Joy of Wild Swimming, you’ll also find beautiful photography, maps and essential planning tips. Browse this delightful guidebook and you’ll discover the uplifting effect of water, how swimming in nature can bring joy to life and explore enchanting places to reinvigorate or simply relax. Covering some seriously special places across the globe, choose

from Lake Tanganyika in Africa or the sea of Monterey Peninsula in California, or closer to home pick England’s romantic River Wye, Constable country at Fen Bridge in Suffolk, or a swim around the sacred Welsh island of Llanddwyn. It’s the perfect book for mindfulness seekers, fitness enthusiasts, experienced swimmers, and those who are simply intrigued by the whole idea of wild swimming and want to give it a try.

Win!

We’ve got 10 co pies of Lonely Planet Joy of Wild Swimming to give away – to be in with a chance of winning one, visit charitable.trav el/lonelyplanet to ente r our competition

Lonely Planet Joy of Wild Swimming is out now in hardback for £19.99, available where all good books are sold.

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AN EIGHT-YEAR-OLD BOY HAS RAISED OVER £80K FOR THE CHARITY GRIEF

avel in sp e tr

m Get s o

good news

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GLOBAL

tion at cha ira

Conservation

BIODIVERSITY BOOST FOR THE MENDIPS Somerset’s Mendip Hills have been declared a ‘super’ National Nature Reserve (NNR), in a move that aims to protect some of the country’s most precious habitats. Spanning over 1,400 hectares and connecting 31 existing nature reserves, Natural England’s newest NNR includes

ENCOUNTER AFTER

the world-famous Cheddar Gorge and will conserve and help restore

THE DEATH OF HIS

wooded combes, spectacular gorges and rocky outcrops. It’s an area

FATHER. INSPIRED

skylarks, water voles and hazel dormice, as well as endemic plants.

steep limestone slopes, traditional wildflower grasslands, ancient that’s home to a variety of wildlife, including horseshoe bats, adders,

BY CAPT SIR TOM MOORE, HE RAN A SPONSORED 5K.

Conservation

CARIBBEAN ISLAND RESTORED TO GLORY Icons from www.flaticon.com - Megaphone speaker by Ayub Irawan; Web by Pixel perfect

A Caribbean island that was once overrun by rats and goats has been hailed as a leading light on how to restore biodiversity. Redonda, which is part of Antigua and Barbuda, resembled the moon’s barren surface – once mined for guano, operations ceased during WW1 and since then, the rats and goats left behind stripped it of its vegetation. Only seven years ago, conservationists removed them and once these invasive animals were gone, Redonda transformed itself and seabirds have returned.

10 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

CHEDDAR GORGE

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Global good news

Greener travel

TRAINS TO PARIS SET TO INCREASE The good news for train travellers continues this issue, as Evolyn, a Spanish rail company, has announced plans to launch a Paris to London high-speed train service to rival Eurostar. Intending to launch its first service in 2025, it has already reached an agreement to buy 12

Global tourism

AND THE MOST SUSTAINABLE PLACE IS... Gothenburg in Sweden has topped an index of cities, towns and regions that recognise the urgent need to regenerate in order for people and the planet to flourish. The Global Destination Sustainability Movement Index is a performance improvement programme to make tourism and events more sustainable, and identifies brave, bold and pioneering destinations. Cities in Scandinavia took the top seven spots, followed by Glasgow in Scotland in eighth and Bordeaux, France, in ninth. Stockholm, in Sweden, completed the top ten. The list of reasons why Gothenburg grabbed the top spot is long, but highlights include sharing its best practices freely with other destinations, being a forerunner to climate neutrality by 2030, and winner of a European Capitals of Inclusion and Diversity award.

high-speed trains from the French manufacturer, with the option to buy four more. This increased capacity follows the news that Eurostar has merged with the high-speed train operator Thalys and aims to carry 30 million passengers a year by 2030, up from a combined total of 18.9 million on Eurostar and Thalys services in 2019. It’s inline with the Austria rail firm ÖBB, which plans to double its overnight passenger count from 1.5 million to 3 million by 2030. ÖBB’s new generation trains include ‘mini cabins’ that allow solo passengers to close off their own pod within a couchette car.

WALES HAS BANNED THE USE OF ANIMAL SNARES AND TRAPS, AND IS THE FIRST NATION IN THE UK TO DO SO. THE BAN, WELCOMED BY RSPCA CYMRU, WILL HELP TO END THE INDISCRIMINATE SUFFERING OF ANIMALS CAUGHT IN THESE CRUEL DEVICES.

Cost of living crisis

WARMTH IN BOOKS Hundreds of libraries around the UK are set to again provide safe spaces for people to stay warm this winter, following last year’s successful scheme. Research by Libraries Connected found 93 per cent of libraries are preparing to offer free, heated spaces for visitors during the cold months.

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DISCOVER

Belize

Join us on a visit to Belize on

Andrade, from the Turneffe Atoll

the eastern coast of Central

Sustainability Association, to talk

America. Just south of Mexico

about the Belize Barrier Reef,

and east of Guatemala, you’ll

the second largest in the world,

find the Caribbean Sea on

as well as the numerous wildlife

its eastern border and dense

sanctuaries, including the first

jungle on its western side.

jaguar preserve in the world.

With its mix of pristine beaches, lush rainforests and rich cultural heritage, this tropical paradise

LISTEN NOW

offers unparalleled experiences.

An epic barrier reef

Our guests this episode are Abil Castaneda, from the Belize Ministry of Tourism, and Valdemar

EXPLORE

ch a e B o n a Pomp

In this episode of the Travel

owner of the South Florida

Insider Podcast, we’re heading

Dive Headquarters. Hugely

to Pompano Beach on the

important to the destination is

south-east coast of Florida. Set

how accessible it is, as well as

between Fort Lauderdale and

the coral reef and fish sanctuary,

West Palm Beach, the city has

while on land there’s world-class

three miles of sandy beaches

dining and shopping, festivals,

lapped by some of the warmest,

concerts and vibrant nightlife.

clearest waters in the area.

LISTEN NOW

Insider knowledge

Joining our host Rebecca Miles to talk about the warm welcome visitors will receive are Rita Wells, tourism marketing manager at Pompano Beach, and Jeff Torode,

Listen, follow and subscribe - wherever you get your podcasts

TraPvOelDCInAsSidT er charitable.travel/travel-insider-podcast

NAPOLEON

Directed by Ridley Scott and written by David Scarpa, Napoleon is an epic historical drama telling the story of the French emperor’s rise to power, released in UK cinemas on 24 November. Starring Joaquin Phoenix in the title role and Vanessa Kirby as Joséphine, filming took place at several English locations, including Lincoln Cathedral and Blenheim Palace, while Fort Ricasoli, on the island of Malta was used to recreate Napoloen’s first victory in 1793 at the siege of Toulon.

Film

ACCIDENTALLY WES ANDERSON By Wally Koval

As fans of Wes Anderson’s films know only too well, the American filmmaker has a knack for capturing a very particular aesthetic, which this joyful book gleefully dives into. Telling the stories behind some of the most beautiful, idiosyncratic and interesting places on Earth, it identifies quirky landmarks and undiscovered gems, then relays them to the reader in a distinctive design, with stunning photography and unexpected A C C I D E N TA L LY narrative. WES ANDERSON Capturing the symmetrical, the atypical, the vibrantly patterned and distinctly coloured, AWA is a visual feast.

Book

WA L LY KOVA L

F O R E W O R D BY

WES ANDERSON

ARMCHAIR

travel time

This issue we head to Malta with Napoleon, travel around the world by bike, discover extinct species and see the surreal world of Wes Anderson

Icons from www.flaticon.com - Guide book by Freepik Travel graphic set from vecteezy.com

THE WORLD AT 15MPH...ISH By Naomi Johnson

Book

Aged 36 and ready for a change in her life, Naomi Johnson set off to cycle the world on the adventure of a lifetime, with a man she’d met only three times before. The author and social enterprise consultant is not your typical athlete – her early school reports noted Naomi would be better at sport if she at least turned up. Instead, this is a story of an ordinary person with a great opportunity and a can-do attitude, and covers almost 20,000 miles through 26 countries, including riding from Cairo to Cape Town, and crossing over the 5,416m Thorong La pass in Nepal.

LIFE ON OUR PLANET Netflix

The streaming giant is continuing its natural history coverage with the recently released Life on Our Planet series. Narrated by Morgan Freeman, the six-part documentary tells the story of life’s epic battle to conquer and survive on planet Earth, and chronicles the rise and fall of species. Incredibly, there are 20 million species on our planet, yet what we see today is just a snapshot in time – 99 per cent of earth’s inhabitants are lost to our deep past, so this series using the latest tech to bring long extinct creatures back to life.

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Travel advice

rf r pe e c t h

EXPERT

e.t abl rave l rit

Ask the

y at ch ida a ol

Bo o k

Kicking off our new regular feature, our team of experts answer your travel queries. In the hot seat this month, is Melissa Tilling, founder of Charitable Travel

On a recent European holiday, our return flight was cancelled while we were waiting to board the plane. At the time, the only guidance we were given by the airline ground staff was to go back through passport control, collect our bags and rebook our return flights on the airline’s app. We were left to find our own accommodation for the night and hope that the costs would be reimbursed. Having rebooked seats on the next available flight, we then suffered the same fate and were left stranded in the airport at midnight for a second night in a row. We eventually flew home two and a half days after we’d originally planned, having paid through the nose for a flight with an alternative airline. We’ve always booked our travel independently as we tend to book with short notice and dislike the idea of traditional ‘package’ holidays, but this experience has made us think twice. How might our experience have been different if we’d booked with a travel agent and what would be the advantages of booking with a travel agent in future? Clara Gillingham, Warwickshire

In the unfortunate event of a flight cancellation, EU Regulation 261/2004 outlines your rights with the airline. You have three options to choose from: you may request a refund for your ticket, opt for a return

flight to your original departure airport, or select a replacement flight to your final destination, provided the conditions match your initial booking. If you book your arrangements through a travel agent and in turn through a tour operator we can support you, ensuring the airline honours their obligations. If your flight is cancelled at the last minute and you are stranded you’re entitled to complimentary drinks and meals, with the extent depending on the duration of the delay, free hotel accommodation for overnight delays, and transportation to and from the airport to your designated hotel. It is true to say that the airline might not support you actually making these arrangements but your rights ensure you will be compensated so receipts and records are critical, and your travel agent and tour operator can support with these arrangements if you need that assistance. The idea of a ‘package holiday’ under that protected package does not mean the accommodation, travel and duration cannot be tailored to your needs, so forget the idea of package meaning a fixed one week on a sun bed. Instead, regard ‘packages’ as entrusting your plans to a professional and then benefiting from the support of that professional when things go wrong, which they can even with the best planning in the world.

My parents are celebrating their golden wedding anniversary next year and I’d love to treat them to a long weekend away to celebrate. They love Italy, France, good food and interesting, family-run places to stay, and I’d like to go somewhere we can ideally reach by train. It’d need to be during the school holidays – not necessarily the summer – as also joining us would be my sevenyear-old daughter, and my sister’s fiveyear-old daughter. In total, we’d be six adults and two children. Our budget for the whole party is £4,000 for travel and accommodation. What do you suggest? Richard Miller, Suffolk

Consider celebrating your parents’ anniversary in Provence, a picturesque region in south-eastern France. Here, you can explore historic towns like Avignon and Arles, indulge in Provençal cuisine, and enjoy family-friendly outdoor activities in the beautiful countryside. Accommodations in family-run guesthouses or countryside villas provide an authentic experience but equally charming hotels are an option. Accessible by taking the Eurostar to Paris and then a high-speed TGV train to Avignon or Marseille, the journey could be broken with a stay in Paris too. Alternatively, Tuscany, in Italy, would also be great. Explore cities like Florence, Siena, and Pisa, enjoy Italian cuisine, and visit local vineyards for wine tasting. Travel by train from the UK to Milan and then switch to regional trains taking you to various Tuscan cities. Family-run agriturismos or smaller friendly hotels in Tuscany offer charming and authentic stays. Train travel allows you to enjoy scenic views along the way, but Italy would most likely need an overnight en route to make the journey easier.

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REGIONAL FOOD The best way to discover the culture of Germany sustainably is through its food. Farmer’s markets, such as Viktualien Markt in Munich, are an old custom, selling fruit and veg, meat, fish and local goods. You’ll also find food trucks serving traditional German food, such as seasonal soups, stews or Bratwurst. At the weekends, locals come to do their food shop – all food sold is sourced locally – and meet up with friends for something to eat and a glass of wine.

16 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

Four views of GERMANY Taking great strides in sustainability, the country offers great food, culture and history, easily accessed by train

GREEN CITIES Many German cities are making huge efforts to become more climate friendly, and one of the leading lights is Bremerhaven, on the North Sea coast. A winner in Germany’s recent tourism sustainability competition, it was recognised for introducing climatefriendly transport to and throughout the city with hydrogen-powered buses, offers for rental bikes and a great variety of #greentravel accommodations. At the Climate Experience Centre, visitors can take a trip through the world’s climate zones and learn how to reduce their own carbon footprint.

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CLIMATE-FRIENDLY TRANSPORT Travelling through Germany is extremely climate-friendly when you use its public transport. Deutsche Bahn railway is powered by 100 per cent green electricity, connecting cities and the countryside. Once at a city, it’s not just more sustainable but often quicker to use public transport than a car. It’s great value too – buy a month’s travel pass in advance for €49, which covers local trains, buses and all transport within cities. And travelling to Germany? Western cities like Cologne can be reached by train from London in just a few hours.

UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE You can find 52 UNESCO heritage sites across Germany. These include historic town centres, architectural sites, churches, impressive landscapes, palaces and castles, such as the Sansoucci Palace in Potsdam. Maintaining the sites is a top priority as they’re hugely valued in terms of both tourism and German culture. In order to keep the sites relevant in the future, culture and sustainability are being merged together at the heritage sites.

Travel talk

HOW TO BE A

green traveller Many forms of mass transit burn fossil fuels that emit carbon dioxide, which contributes to climate change, so how can you , reduce these when you travel on holiday? editor of our new Green Traveller magazine that launched this summer, provides some tips for lower carbon travel

Icons from www.flaticon.com - Gravisio

Richard Hammond

It’s important to consider the whole life cycle of your holiday, not just what you do in the holiday destination, as travelling to and from a holiday is often responsible for at least 70 per cent of the carbon emissions of the entire trip. The easiest way to reduce these emissions is to reduce how far you travel and to travel in a way that burns fewer fossil fuels using lower carbon modes of transport. Alternatively, don’t travel in a petrol-fuelled vehicle at all, choosing instead to travel on foot, by bike or under sail. In practice, the most emphatic way to reduce your carbon dioxide emissions when travelling is, where possible, to seek low emission alternatives to flying, as there is a step difference in the emissions produced by air travel versus most other modes of mass transport. There are concerted efforts to decarbonise air travel using alternative fuels and methods of propulsion (such as via electricity and hydrogen), but even the most optimistic predictions support that this change is at least a

decade away for most airlines. In general, travelling by coach and train in the UK emits about five to six times less carbon dioxide than travelling by plane. Travelling as a foot passenger on a ferry has a carbon footprint that’s about half that again, though the carbon footprint of one driver taking a small petrol car on a ferry is several times that of taking the train. The ports on both sides of The Channel crossing are often well connected by public transport, so it’s easy to travel by bus or train to the ports in the UK, as well as disembark on the other side and continue the journey overland. For travelling to Europe, there’s even more of a difference as many of the trains on the continent run on electricity rather than fossil fuels. Travelling by Eurostar, for instance, emits up to 96 per cent less carbon dioxide than travelling by plane. To make the most of travelling overland, consider the journey as being part of the holiday. You can play cards, read the newspaper or a book, catch up on emails and text, watch a film, enjoy a meal from

the buffet carriage, or just gaze out of the window and enjoy the views as the landscape changes incrementally. When you arrive at the final railway station, instead of the hassle of baggage reclaim, you pass by bistros, buskers, and bike racks, as you emerge into the heart of city life. You already feel like you’re travelling like a local. The seamless connection of Eurostar with Europe’s high-speed rail networks means that you can reach many wonderful European cities within 24 hours of leaving the UK. Barcelona, for instance, is reachable in one day, so too are Geneva, Milan, and Munich. You can also use the high-speed rail networks to Nice and Marseille to connect with ferries to the Mediterranean Islands of Corsica, Sardinia, and Sicily; to Barcelona to connect with ferries to the Balearic Islands of Ibiza, Mallorca and Menorca; and to Algeciras and Tarifa to connect with ferries to Morocco. Happy Green Travelling! Next issue: where to find a wildlifefriendly holiday

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Winter sun

Ethan Bucher at Unsplash

OF THE BEST

winter sun wonders In search of some sunshine to warm your soul in the depths of winter? Take a look at our alternative suggestions, all bookable via Charitable Travel. It’s winter sun, but not as you know it, says

Rebecca Miles

CAP SAINT-VINCENT, SAGRES, PORTUGAL

18 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

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a ay

avel e.tr bl

Book y o

On the lookout

next holid

Winter sun

TAKE A SAFARI IN NAMIBIA

Visit Namibia in the northern hemisphere’s winter and you’re in for a treat. January is a particularly good month for birders, the vegetation is at its greenest and this time of the year is birthing season, so expect to see zebras and springboks with their newborns. Explore under your own steam on a 13-day selfdrive safari with Audley Travel, spending time in the Etosha National Park, the red-rock landscape of Damaraland and on the coast at Swakopmund. Included in the itinerary are some guided game drives, where you’ll likely spot lion, giraffe and elephant; by the coast, look out for chameleons, scorpions and snakes.

THE LITTLE-KNOWN CANARY ISLAND

Eschew the Canary Island crowds and make for the little known island of La Gomera. From the hotel Parador de La Gomera, above its capital San Sebastián, there are views to Tenerife in one direction, while in the other lies the Garajonay National Park covering a wildlife-rich ancient laurel forest. Winter in the Canaries is ideal walking weather so take a hike before returning to the Parador to relax among its subtropical gardens and pool followed by dinner of Gomera fish casseroled in a clay pot.

PARADOR DE LA GROMERA

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Winter sun

KICK BACK IN COSTA RICA

Santa Teresa might be tricky to get to, but when you do it’s well worth the effort. Located on Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula on the Pacific Ocean, it’s one of the world’s famed Blue Zones – its inhabitants live the longest, thanks to their effortlessly healthy lifestyle and diet. Tune into this yourself on a winter break, when the average temperatures hover around 30º and the sea is a balmy 28º, and check into the Hotel Nantipa, a 21-bedroom beachfront boutique hotel. The owners support other local businesses and guests get to benefit from waterfall swims, rainforest hikes and volunteering.

HOTEL NANTIPA

India’s state of Kerala is best visited during the cooler, drier months from October to February – ideal for anyone wanting to escape the damp British winter. So join Cox & Kings’ 14-day Passage through Kerala tour and you’ll experience the serene landscapes of Karnataka and Kerala, stopping in awe at the immense Maharajah’s Palace in Mysore, gazing in wonder at the tigers, leopards and monkeys in the Nagarhole National Park, and pottering through the backwater region of Kerala. You’ll also get to ride the scenic Blue Mountain Railway and follow a culinary tour of Mysore.

20 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

A TIGER IN KERALA

Lakshmi Narasimha at Unsplash

WILDLIFE AND WATER IN INDIA

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Winter sun

Surf’s up

MELLOW TIMES IN MOROCCO

TAGHAZOUT

Escape the hustle and bustle of the UK’s holiday season with a relaxing break on Morocco’s Atlantic coast. Our pick? The fishing village of Taghazout that’s transforming itself into a laid-back surfers’ paradise, thanks to its mild temperatures and huge crescent of beach. To its north is the Paradis Plage Resort, set on five kilometres of tranquil sands where you’ll find a surf school, beachfront yoga studio and a spa full of traditional treatments using local ingredients, such as argan oil and orange blossom. Book a room and relax, Paradis Plage is Morocco’s first Ecoresort.

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Winter sun

TAKE A HIKE IN TURKEY

Swerve the sweltering summer heat of Turkey’s Turquoise Coast and pay a visit in winter, when the temperatures linger around the mid teens and the crowds are but a distant memory. Fethiye, one of the oldest towns on this stretch of the Med, is set on a secluded bay that acts as a natural marina and is strewn with islands. Hike the Lycian Way in the cooler weather, ease into the thermal baths, explore the ancient Lycian rock tombs, and enjoy some fantastically good value accommodation. Our pick is the Hillside Beach Club, surrounded by pine-covered hills and overlooking the sand of its private Kalemya Bay.

THE LYCIAN WAY

FIND OUT MORE

A network of local foundations funding effective grassroots conservation initiatives to protect the environment, restore nature and safeguard against climate change

charitable.travel/conservation-collective @conservationcollectiveorg info@conservation-collective.org

Winter sun

CRUISING THE MEKONG RIVER

January and February are an excellent time to visit Vietnam and Cambodia – temperatures are in the high 20s and there’s not much rainfall. To see the best of the two countries, board Wendy Wu’s latest ship, the Victoria Mekong, and cruise from the lush green landscapes of Vietnam up to Cambodia’s enchanting capital, Phnom Penh, over eight days. On the way, stop at temples, markets and villages for fascinating insights into the culture.

THE HEIGHT OF LUXURY IN OMAN

ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT

Dramatically perched atop Jebel Akhdar (the Green Mountain) in Oman’s Hajar Mountains, Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort is one of the world’s highest resorts and has views to last for days over the canyons below. A destination in its own right, the architecturally delightful hotel offers every activity imaginable, from hiking and rock climbing to cooking and photography, as well as a sumptuous spa inspired by Omani culture and stargazing from the infinity pool viewing platform. And the best news for winter sun seekers? Oman is most comfortable to visit between October and March, when the heat is less intense.

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Winter sun

Mighty views

THE INCAS AND THE AMAZON IN PERU

January is the ideal time to visit the coast of Peru and surfers flock to the beaches near Lima. Head into the Sacred Valley of the Incas and north to Machu Picchu however, and it’s much quieter – February is the height of the rainy season, which deters many visitors. Yet with the rain, the flora flourishes and when the clouds clear, as they often do, Machu Picchu appears particularly striking. Join Latin Routes’ Andes to Amazon Adventure and spend 12 days travelling through not just the Sacred Valley but along the Amazon too, taking boats and trains where possible. Be sure to wake early for the dawn chorus of water-dwelling river birds the Communal Reserve of Yanayacu de Yacapana.

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Winter sun

HIKES AND TRAILS IN THE ALGARVE

Discover another side to the Algarve when you visit in winter. With temperatures hovering around the mid teens, it might be too chilly to laze on the beach but it’s ideal for exploring the many walking trails – both inland through rural towns and villages (for example, Rota Vicentina’s Historical Way) and along the coast past epic beaches (Rota Vicentina’s Fisherman’s Trail), starting from the most south-western point of the Algarve. Stay at one (or more) of the four Pousadas – historic hotels in charming places – that follow the Algarve coastline.

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WEST SWEDEN Lizzie Trimble

Jonas Ingman

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Take a stroll in Gothenburg

Compact and easy to explore on foot, stopping off at the many cafes and restaurants, get a different perspective of the city with a guided tour on the Paddan sightseeing boats that travel the canals and rivers. Next to the main station is a lovely hotel called the Clarion Hotel Post. Once the old post office headquarters, it’s now modern and trendy with a spa and rooftop pool. Lining the river are the grand old merchant houses, and you can follow the river through the beautiful Trädgårdsföreningen Park to the Opera House and on to the old part of the city, Haga.

Viggo Lundberg

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Getting around the region

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From Gothenburg, an extensive network of trains, buses and even ferries spreads across the region, making it easy to get around by public transport. Gothenburg’s train station, in particular, is impressive and the trains are efficient and punctual, so you could base yourself in Gothenburg and do day trips or overnight trips from the city. While the road system is superb, with wide, open roads and easy driving, hiking and biking instead is very much encouraged!

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Look at the region of West Sweden on a map and it seems pretty small, but in fact it covers a vast area 1.9 times the size of the UK. Stretching from Sweden’s Baltic coast in the west to half way to Stockholm in the east, its capital is Gothenburg. With miles and miles of unspoilt countryside, clean air and countless sporting activities, word is spreading that Sweden is a great holiday destination. It’s not as expensive as some other Scandinavian countries, and is a cooler alternative to the soaring summer temperatures found in many other parts of Europe.

Kavalenkava Freepi

What’s it all about?

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Thomas Lotter

3 great places to visit

LIDKÖPING, 1HR Visit the porcelain factory, then stroll into the main square and admire the church and the unusual town hall, before browsing the art galleries and gift shops. Lacko Castle is also close by. MARIESTAD, 2HR 30MIN From the train station, walk through the grounds of the magnificent cathedral and arrive at this picturesque port on the banks of Lake Vanern – it’s full of buildings dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries.

What to do?

For nature and active holiday lovers, West Sweden is a paradise. Hiking, biking, canoeing, kayaking, skiing and horseback riding are all on offer, to name a few. Make a beeline for the newly opened and flat cycle route along the Gota Canal to Lyrestad, where you’ll find plenty of picturesque locks and cafes along the route. Or hike the Biosphere Trail, a 138km trail hugging the vast Lake Vanern to the north of the region – and don’t miss the views of the fairytale Lacko Castle from the Roparudden Path.

What to eat and drink

The food in West Sweden is incredible, particularly the fish from the lakes and the shellfish along the coast. The emphasis is very much on farm to table, and restaurants and hotels grow as much fresh fruit and vegetables as possible themselves, buying in other ingredients from local producers. Vegetarians and vegans are well catered for with plenty of choices, and dairy alternatives are offered as standard. Make sure to leave space for fika, the practice of having coffee or tea with a sweet cake or pastry at any time of day – you’ll be offered fika everywhere you visit.

West Sweden aims to create economically viable businesses and tourism that have positive environmental impacts and are appreciated by residents and visitors alike. In practice, it means encouraging fewer visitors to stay longer and travel by public transport where possible

Lay your head

There are some amazing and unusual places to stay in West Sweden, from lovely little inns and former lock house keepers’ or station masters’ houses, to farm stays in traditional red wooden buildings and manor house hotels. The most memorable, however, has to be staying in a Glass House on the shores of a lake. These houses, in secluded spots by lakes or in the forest, allow you to be completely at one with nature. Cosy and fitted with high-end bed linen and duvets, you can relax and gaze at the stars, the lakes and the forest, with only the sound of the birds to entertain you. Breakfast is delivered to your little private campsite, and you can light a fire in the evenings and cook and dine al fresco.

Jonas Ingman

ALINGSÅS, 26MIN A really cute city with cobbled streets and charming wooden houses, Alingsås is known as the capital of fika, with 30 cafes offering tea, coffee and delicious cakes. The scent of freshly ground coffee and cake fills the air.

Jonas Ingman

BY TRAIN FROM GOTHENBURG

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Conservation in KAZA

Room to roam

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Conservation in KAZA

Finally starting to get the recognition it deserves, the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Park – KAZA – is a bold conservation project spanning five African countries. Wildlife photographer and writer takes us on a tour

Book y o

Mike Unwin

HIPPOS IN THE ZAMB EZI

n hour into our morning game drive and we’ve come to a halt. Moments ago, the hoarse alarm bark of a baboon suggested a predator was in the vicinity – a suspicion confirmed when others joined in, quickly ramping up the outrage. Now we sit tight, straining eyes and ears. What? Where? “Lioness,” mouths Lucius, our guide, nodding to our right. Sure enough, here comes the cause of the commotion, padding out of the thickets and across the dusty track in front of us. Close behind comes her golden-maned suitor. He pauses to give a sapling his territorial dousing, fixes us with an amber glare, then pads on after his mate. The bush closes behind them, leaving just the subsiding protests of the baboons and our own unspoken awe. I’m in the little-known Nkasa Lupala National Park, a small reserve in Namibia’s Zambezi province – that narrow strip of land, formerly called Caprivi, in the country’s far northeast. This park is one of those classic ‘best-kept secrets’: most safari-goers to the region visit the more famous reserves of Botswana, just over the Kwando River immediately to our south. But in less than 24 hours here, we’ve seen elephants, buffalos, zebra, hippos and numerous antelope, not to mention a pageant of birdlife. Last night, I’d even heard the rasping grunt of a prowling leopard outside my safari tent. Truth be told, it wasn’t always this way. The parks of Zambezi province had long been neglected, the victims of regional instability, heavy poaching and conflict with a burgeoning local community. Wildlife – especially larger mammals – had become thin on the ground, and with

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Conservation in KAZA

few facilities, it took a resourceful traveller to seek it out. Today, things have changed, thanks to the birth of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Park – otherwise known as KAZA. Nkasa Lupala is one of 36 national parks contained within this vast transnational conservation area, which incorporates contiguous slices

of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Others include such world-famous reserves as Chobe and Hwange, plus celebrated World Heritage Sites such as the Okavango Delta and Victoria Falls. Between and around them are multiple smaller pockets of protected land. Altogether, this amazing

wilderness jigsaw forms one expanse of 520,000 square kilometres; the size of France. That makes it the world's second largest conservation area on land.

CREATING SPACE

KAZA launched in 2011, with a mission to restore the region’s natural landscapes and depleted wildlife by linking existing protected areas, thus allowing elephants and other animals to

KAZA's mission is to restore the region's depleted wildlife by linking existing protected area, thus allowing animals to resume time-honoured migration routes resume time-honoured migration routes, unfettered by national boundaries. Through sustainable tourism and development, it also aims to improve the wellbeing of the local communities who depend upon this land. Today governments, NGOs, community members, scientists and conservationists from all five countries are on the case. Our lions this morning offer

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Conservation in KAZA

An elephant at Botswana's Okavango Delta

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Hello reedfrog!

Conservation in KAZA

impressive proof of progress. Sightings of these big cats, plus other large predators, are already on the up in Zambezi Province. What’s more, tracking has established that many are moving back and forth across the Botswana border, some even continuing north across this strip of Namibia into southern Angola. Elephant and buffalo have been following similar cross-border routes. I talk to community leader Lembo Lameck about the new Kwando Carnivore project. He explains how local people, understandably, worry about animals living alongside that might trash crops or kill cattle. But this project is making a difference. For every tourist lion sighting, Nakasa Lupala lodge donates a fee to the community, which WWF matches. Meanwhile, KAZA has

helped the village build 11 mobile lion-proof kraals (enclosures), which have both reduced attacks on cattle by 90% and fertilised the ground for planting crops. Camera traps also help alert the community to lion movements outside the park. “Before, people were fighting lions like nobody’s business,” Lembeck tells me. “Now we’ve got a solution.” Two days earlier and roughly 300 kilometres to the south, I was standing beside Botswana’s Boteti River hearing a similar story. There, cattle farmer Kelelo Aobakwe showed me the new solar panels that powered an electric fence around his property. “9.9 volts is enough to keep the elephants away,” he smiles. I asked him about lions. “When I see a lion, I see tourism.” The Boteti Riverfront borders Botswana’s Makgadikgadi Pans

We watch the herds mass along the river GREEN-SPOTTED DOVE

valley, joining wildebeest, giraffe and a scattering of elephant bulls in a sunset tableau that is pure timeless Africa

227,900 ELEPHANTS

(44% OF AFRICA’S TOTAL)

36 EXISTING

PROTECTED AREAS

IN 5 PARTNER COUNTRIES

ANGOLA . BOTSWANA . NAMIBIA . ZAMBIA . ZIMBABWE

PARK OPENED 15 MARCH 2012

197 SPECIES OF MAMMAL

ANGOLA ZAMBIA ZIMBABWE NAMIBIA

TOTAL PROTECTED AREA

520,000 km

(200,000 SQ MILES)

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BOTSWANA

601 SPECIES OF BIRD (524 BREEDING)

24% OF AFRICA’S WILD DOGS 128 SPECIES OF REPTILE 3,000+ SPECIES OF PLANT

(INCLUDING 100+ ENDEMICS)

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Conservation in KAZA

at KAZA’s southernmost edge. Here, the arid thorn scrub and blinding white salt pans are a world apart from the lush waterways of the Zambezi Region, but after the rains, this region attracts thousands of zebra from the north in one of Africa’s greatest migrations. That evening, from the gorgeous Leroo La Tau lodge, we watch the herds mass along the river valley, joining wildebeest, giraffe and a scattering of elephant bulls in a sunset tableau that is pure timeless Africa.

ACROSS THE FALLS

Three days after leaving Nkasa Lupala, I’m on a forest trail getting drenched to the bone. The rainy season is still months away: this is simply the soaking afforded any visitor to Victoria

ZEBRA IN THE MAKGADIKGADI PAN

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Conservation in KAZA

Falls when the river is in full spate. Retreating to a sheltered viewpoint, I gaze out across the cataract’s thunderous 1.7km extent. I’m standing in Zimbabwe but looking into Zambia. It's another reminder that this region’s natural heritage transcends national boundaries; that the mighty Zambezi, which two days ago carried us by boat from Namibia into Zambia and is now crashing over the cascade in front of me, carries no passport. Neither do the 250,000 elephants that inhabit KAZA’s wilderness areas, some 44% of Africa’s total. Plans for a KAZA ‘uni-visa’ may soon mean that tourists can also traverse the region border-free. Victoria Falls – known in Lozi as Mosi-oa-Tunya, ‘the smoke that thunders’ – is KAZA’s tourist hub, offering everything from booze cruises to bungee-jumping. To get an idea of what KAZA is doing behind the scenes, I explore on

both sides of the river. In Zambia, I visit a sustainable agriculture project and patrol a township with a wildlife conflict team. In Zimbabwe, I enjoy the Vulture Culture Experience at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, where these threatened raptors drop from the skies for their daily meal of bloody scraps, and visit the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust, where scientists are using DNA forensics to combat wildlife crime across the region. Our final morning has me drifting downriver on a dawn breakfast cruise. I reflect on how inspiring I have found KAZA; how, despite the sobering problems southern Africa faces, it offers a vision in which visitors to any of its magnificent parks will be putting something back for the entire region. But then, when you have a champagne cocktail in hand, hippos around your boat and the sun rising over the Zambezi, inspiration comes easily.

Spotting cheetahs

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Neuschwanstein

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air, windows display towering pyramids of syrupy baklava, and animated groups smoke shisha outside gold shops that dazzle like Aladdin’s Cave. Elsewhere I admire regal mansions and the Secessionist landmark Villa Stuck in Bogenhausen, pay tribute to the anti-Nazi White Rose group in bohemian Schwabing and sample

Visiting Neuschwanstein Castle? Autobus Janknecht

Oberbayern runs hassle-free trips to this

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The Alte Utting

©München Tou

rismus, Thies

and other Bavarian destinations

Haidhausen

Held in September and October, Munich’s Oktoberfest sees around six million annual revellers consume over seven million litres of beer

©München Tourismus, Sigi Muller

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Munich always yields surprises, from gorgeous gardens to architectural jewels and off-beat indie boutiques. Strolling around is a pleasure, and I’m relishing getting off the standard tourist trail. Ok, I do spend some time in the Old Town: a honeypot of pastel facades, stepped gables and cinnamon-scented cobblestone streets. I dine at Hofbräuhaus, an insanely popular tavern complete with lederhosen-clad waiters and jaunty Bavarian band; visit attractions such as the onion-domed cathedral and twin town halls; and marvel at jaw-dropping interiors in Asam Church and the Residence palace. And yes, I take a trip to Neuschwanstein, the worldfamous castle that inspired Disney’s Cinderella castle. But my time in Munich is largely spent beyond the main visitor hotspots, discovering the city’s diverse patchwork of neighbourhoods. For a start, I’m staying in Westend, a multicultural district that many just get a glimpse of during the two-week-long Oktoberfest beer festival held here in autumn. Wafts of sizzling kebab fill the

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some of Maxvorstadt’s multiple museums. Schlachthofviertel, the meatpacking district, is another highlight, with former shipping containers and slaughterhouse grounds transformed into quirky cultural hubs. Over in Haidhausen, meanwhile, wisteria-laden cottages evoke a fairy-tale hamlet. Dining is equally varied. Most unusual snack? A scoop of beer ice cream from Alice-in-Wonderlandthemed parlour Der Verrückte Eismacher. As for my favourite meal, that would be sultry Japanese restaurant IZAKAYA – not cheap but oh its cocktails, the snow crab rolls, that bamboo chocolate pot. What surprises still await in this enigmatic city? I look forward to finding out…

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Discov er

In the mid-19th century, the sea breezes and wide beaches of New Jersey inspired local physician Jonathan Pitney to develop a health resort on the barrier island of Absecon, and Atlantic City was born. It became as famous for its lively boardwalk as its beach bathing and, during the summers, holidaymakers flocked here from New York, Philadelphia and Washington DC – particularly during the 1920s when ‘The World’s Playground’ flouted prohibition laws. In 1977 casinos were legalised, and it is now known as the East Coast’s premier gaming resort – though there’s plenty more to this town than tables and slots.

What’s it all about?

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ATLANTIC CITY

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Boardwalk empire

Often claimed to be the world’s first and longest boardwalk, the 5.8 milelong oceanside promenade dating back to 1870 is the jewel in Atlantic City’s crown. Stroll or roll along it – you can hire a bike, or even be pushed in the stately splendour of one of AC’s iconic Rolling Chairs – to discover beaches and breakers to one side and attractions to the other. Drop in at the high-rise hotels, casinos, restaurants, bars, piers and amusement parks.

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Shore thing

While many other Jersey Shore beaches charge admission, the wide, soft sands and sparkling waters of Atlantic City’s beach come for free. The caster-sugar sand is perfect for building castles and creating a mattress-soft base for lounging, and the waves beckon you in for jumping, splashing, boogie boarding and even surfing. There are showers, changing rooms, and during the summer, lifeguards – plus, it couldn’t be easier to access, stretching alongside the famous Boardwalk.

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HARD ROCK HOTEL AND CASINO

And another thing... Pick a pier to experience your favourite beachside entertainment CENTRAL PIER From retro coin push and pinball to the latest video games, the arcade at Central Pier is

Show time

When the sun goes down, Atlantic City just keeps on going. All the casinos have performance venues – Ovation Hall at Ocean Casino Resort has welcomed everyone from Beyoncé to Barry Manilow – and Jim Whelan Boardwalk Hall hosts comedy and sporting events as well as music. Built in 1927, it’s a National Historic Landmark, and its pipe organ is the world’s largest musical instrument. Bars abound too, with rooftop and beach options, or more unique choices such as the rotating Carousel Bar at Bally’s Casino or Bar 32 Chocolate in the Orange Loop, which pairs craft cocktails with sweet treats.

family heaven. will love the giant, overand-under style go-kart track. STEEL PIER With carousels, dodgems and coasters, Steel ABSECON LIGHTHOUSE

to choose for amusement park aficionados. You’ll get great views down the Boardwalk from the 227ft-tall Big Wheel.

There are nine casinos in Atlantic City, offering a heady combination of slots, poker tables, baccarat pits and sportsbooks. But chasing Lady Luck isn’t the only thing to do at these glamorous addresses. At Hard Rock Hotel & Casino you can see Slash’s guitar and Elvis’ Rolls Royce, alongside live events from bands to boxing. Tropicana has an IMAX movie theatre plus a nightly Sound and Light Show. Get a treatment at Caesars’ Roman Baths-themed spa, or lounge by Harrah’s pool – an oasis-like affair in a glass dome with tropical foliage and private cabanas.

Spending time

Speed demons

Pier is the one

All a-flutter

There’s plenty to discover during the day, too. Climb the 288 steps of historic Absecon Lighthouse, the tallest in New Jersey, and learn about the town’s past at The Atlantic City Experience in Jim Whelan Boardwalk Hall. Take a dolphin-watching cruise from Gardner’s Basin, or delight in the city’s creative scene at the Noyes Arts Garage, home to galleries and the African American Heritage Museum. You’ll also find more than 70 murals dotted around the city streets. If shopping is your weakness, head for Tanger Outlets Atlantic City for designer goods at discount prices.

In the original US version of Monopoly, which dates back to 1935, it’s Atlantic City’s street and station names that appear on the board

Tasting notes

Atlantic City’s cuisine is something to write home about. You’ll find food from famous name chefs – there’s a Nobu at Caesars, and a Gordon Ramsay Steak at Harrah’s – plus a host of local restaurants. Make like the late, great Jersey boy, food writer Anthony Bourdain and have seafood at Dock’s Oyster House, steak at the Knife and Fork Inn, pizza from Tony’s Baltimore Grill and classic candy at James Original Salt Water Taffy.

JAMES SALT WATER TAFFY DOCK’S OYSTER HOUSE

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5TOsmall towns VISIT IN SICILY Sian Meades-Williams

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ERICE There’s really only one way to get to the mountain town of Erice: the cable car from the port city of Trapani. You’ll find an abundance of churches to explore as you wind up the tiny alleyways to the main square. Less than 30,000 people live in the town and most days you’ll find them in the queue for Maria Grammatico’s famous sweets. Maria learned her trade at a local convent in Erice after the Second World War and now they’re famous the world over.

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There’s no slow seduction from Sicily’s large cities. Palermo, Catania and Agrigento will lovebomb you with fine architecture, rich food and balmy evenings that carry on into the early hours. But there is a softer side to the island and it can be found in its smaller towns and villages. Here are five of Sicily’s finest

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MARZAMEMI If you love seafood then Marzamemi, on Sicily’s southernmost tip, is the village to visit. Famous for its tonnara (tuna), Marzamemi’s fishery itself is no longer active but fish still play a starring role in village life. The fisherman’s huts around the main square have been repurposed for local crafts, restaurants and ice cream parlours and local produce is a real source of pride in Sicily so expect to sample plenty of seafood. When you’ve eaten your catch, settle in for the international film festival that takes place every summer.

ENNA Life moves very slowly in Enna, and that’s exactly what makes it such a wonderful stop if you’re travelling across the island. It is a place to take in the landscape with a glass of something cold, or take a stroll up towards the castle for an even better view. Make sure you visit nearby Lake Pergusa in the Erean Mountains, which can sometimes have a red hue. Going car free? Buses are usually more regular than trains and – crucially – air conditioned.

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CEFALU Cefalu is actually a city, but it’s a very tiny one. Take the train along the coast from Palermo and you’ll be as close to the water as it’s possible to be. You might even be lucky enough to see a pod of dolphins travelling alongside you. When you arrive you’ll be welcomed by pretty alleyways to nip down through the old town, delicious ice cream on every corner and a beautiful beach. Sicily’s beaches aren’t celebrated as much as they should be, but this one is incredibly popular.

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ORTIGIA If you’ve got an interest in archaeology and Ancient Greece then Sicily is a veritable playground. Agrigento on the south coast will no doubt tempt you with its incredible Greek temples, but don’t miss out on Ortigia – the historical heart of Syracuse – where you’ll discover the ancient temples of Apollo and Athena. Ortigia is actually a tiny island just off the coast of the mainland, but there’s a bridge across. Hop on a bus, the town is almost entirely car free.

Female farmers in St Lucia

GETTING

into the soil OF ST LUCIA The future is brighter for female farmers in St Lucia thanks to Helen’s Daughters WORDS BY

“L

Yasemen Kaner-White

and in St Lucia is so fertile, you simply plant something and it soon sprouts up” says Sylvanus Lewis, head gardener at the desirable all-inclusive East Winds hotel, which boasts beautiful gardens showing off the vibrant flora and fauna found on the island. Guests can book a tour with him to learn about the medicinal values held by the medley of indigenous plants, and his tours are renowned for lasting a good few hours due to the inquisitive visitors wanting to know more. To be in St Lucia is to feel the diverse nature that surrounds

you. It’s entwined in daily life, whether it be sea-side, hiking the Pitons or doing as the St Lucians do and swimming under a waterfall and soaking in natural mud baths and hot springs. The land provides a life for St Lucians beyond pleasure, however. It’s also economically important, with farming playing a big role in the community. Women have always contributed to the local agriculture but it’s long been unacknowledged, so I’m here to meet Keithlin Caroo, a woman who is helping to give recognition and support to St Lucia’s many female farmers through her

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Female farmers in St Lucia

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Female farmers in St Lucia

charity, Helen’s Daughters, which she founded in 2016. The charity, like the country itself, is aptly named after a woman. ‘St Lucia’ derives from Saint Lucy of Syracuse (AD 283 – 304) and Helen’s Daughters is so named because Helen is often the nickname for St Lucia, which was seven times British ruled and seven times French. So St Lucia, like Helen of Troy, was fought over. Caroo comes from a farming background on both sides of her family, and the idea for Helen’s Daughters came after her grandma passed away. She was sorting through paperwork and noticed that, although both her grandparents equally worked on the farm – Caroo distinctly remembers both her grandparents waking at 3am to work on their land – only

her grandfather was named as a farmer on her mother’s birth certificate. Her grandmother was referred to as a housewife, a common occurrence locally. “If half of the people in the agricultural sector are not recognised and supported and seen as equals, then that is a huge issue,” says Caroo. Caroo graduated from the University of Puerto Rico with a BA in political science before going on to gain an MSc in international relations. From there, she worked at the UN for five years, covering gender inequality in peacekeeping and political affairs, yet her ambition was always to develop work in farming in small island states. Back and forth between work in the USA and her home in St Lucia, she noticed that tourism had replaced

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agriculture as the main income for the economy, so a lot of rural communities were suffering. Historically, the UK had given preferential treatment to St Lucia to supply bananas, and many farmers had made a lot of money and created a strong middle class. But when that trade declined, so did their wealth and they became some of the poorer members of St Lucian society. With 80 per cent of St Lucia’s land being rural, it became a very pronounced problem. Caroo started to see the myriad of problems with St Lucia’s agriculture, including its aging population and the fact there isn’t a recovery strategy to reignite its agriculture sector. She also noticed that the agriculture was based on export as opposed to feeding its own nation. Thinking about women like her grandmother, who weren’t

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Female farmers in St Lucia

Caroo set up the charity Helen’s Daughters in 2016 to help educate women on best farming practices, including climate reilience and how to preserve crops

KEITHLIN CAROO

certified farmers, Caroo soon realised that supporting and empowering smallholding farmers would increase yields. So she set up the charity Helen’s Daughters in 2016 to help educate women on best farming practices, including climate resilience, the benefits of reducing the use of pesticides, and knowing how to prevent wastage by finding ways to store and preserve crops. The charity also helps its members, aptly named FarmHers, with business planning, including creating business plans, financial literacy and seeking financial investment. It gives the members group health insurance and even fun getaways such as an annual health and wellness retreat, so they have much needed time out from tending to their farms. The charity is having a positive impact and growing in strength. In 2022 it doubled its membership

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Female farmers in St Lucia

to nearly 100 and 94 students graduated from its Women’s Farmers Academy. It also hosted 14 events throughout the year and had 736 beneficiaries.

GETTING INVOLVED

It’s great to hear about the work that Helen’s Daughters is doing behind the scenes, but how can holidaymakers play a part? For starters, visitors can book medicinal garden tours with members of Helen’s Daughters to learn first-hand the traditional knowledge of which herbs can be used as alternative medicine. It’s an element Caroo is keen to nurture, so book a medicinal garden tour with Helena Thomas, from In Bloom-Mother Nature’s Way, and you’ll get an insight into the role women play in the production of food and how women farm differently. You’ll also plant your own seedlings,

Visitors can book tours with members of Helen’s Daughters to learn first-hand the traditional knowledge of which herbs can be used as alternative medicine take a look at flora and fauna endemic to the island and learn how to make local spices and jams, before tasting some light refreshments f rom the farm in a relaxing spot by the nearby river. Helen’s Daughters also works to help its members sell their produce – and two channels it focuses on are local markets, and local hotels. Time your visit to coincide with the monthly FarmHers Saturday market and you’ll find fresh

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Female farmers in St Lucia

produce including dasheen, aubergine, calaloo, seasoning pepper, plantain, passionfruit icicles and fresh coconut water. Items to savour at a later date include coconut fudge, herbal teas, jams, tamarind balls and local seamoss products, such as seamoss spice rum, as well as beauty products like handmade soaps, beauty oil and scented candles. Eating local is always interesting and the market is perfect for this. For breakfast there’s cocoa tea, coconut bakes with saltfish, fried bakes with cheese, spice tea, breadfruit fishcakes, fresh local juices, while at lunchtime there’s pigtail bouillon, baked chicken stew, pork, fish, breadfruit salad and delectable fried plantain. More than simply a collection of stalls, at the FarmHers market there’a a host, live music,

Also make time to visit Hotel Chocolat’s Rabot Estate, where Helen’s Daughters have an apprecntice programme running an organic farm that’s open for tours tutorials and demonstrations, including home gardening tips and wellness talks. While in St Lucia, also make time to visit Hotel Chocolat’s Rabot Estate, where Helen’s Daughters have an apprentice programme running an organic farm. Open for tours, I was shown round by Biann Best, who received one of the charity’s two annual scholarships to study agricultural science and is a part-time apprentice at the farm. As we walk through the cacao groves, Best shows me the biodiversity cacao needs to thrive – coconut, mango and citrus trees abound. The organic produce grown at the farm is sold to the BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288

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Female farmers in St Lucia

Honouring the past while looking to the future remains central to Caroo’s work; she shares her plans to create a Creole garden based on her grandmother’s hotel and used in the Hotel Chocolat restaurant, which I highly recommend visiting to sample all the innovative chocolate-infused dishes, such as white chocolate mashed potato, cocoa roti stuffed with chicken and, of course, the in-house chocolate sweet treats. Visitors can also make their own chocolate bar, and a proportion of all sales goes towards stipends for the charity apprentices. Honouring the past while looking to the future remains central to Caroo’s work and I end my time with her by hearing about Helen’s Daughters plans to create a Creole garden based on her grandmother’s. The

charity has secured land from the government and as well as being open to tourists, there’ll be community composting, a café to try the food they grow and make, a gift shop and further markets. There’ll also be land for 10 landless women in an effort to create some balance – currently 70% of St Lucia’s farmland is owned by men. However you decide to spend your time in St Lucia, whether it’s mainly relaxing on the private beach at East Winds hotel or strolling through Soufrière, be sure to make some time for Helens’ Daughters to support the FarmHers of the now and the future. BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288

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THE HOMELESS

A host of charities across the country are working hard to make life that little bit easier for anyone dealing with homelessness and the issues it creates

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THE GATEHOUSE OXFORD Supporting adults in Oxford who are homeless, vulnerably housed, on low income and/or looking for company and community, the Gatehouse Oxford provides both sanctuary now and support for the future to the local homeless community. Running a drop-in community centre on Woodstock Road, the Gatehouse offers its free services and activities on an open-door basis, meaning people don’t need to prove anything to access its support. Activities include everything from computer access sessions and counselling, to free food and drink, shower provision and board game nights. charitable.travel/ homeless-people-andthe-oxford-churchesgatehouse

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AYLESBURY HOMELESS ACTION GROUP Offering support and advice to anyone worried about losing their home or in unsuitable housing, Aylesbury Housing Group helps people secure appropriate accommodation and/or prevents them from becoming homeless in the first place. AHAG works towards reducing the impact that homelessness and insecure housing has on both the individual and the wider community, and does this by providing one-to-one advice sessions, a weekly benefits surgery, mental health support and a pilot legal clinic. charitable.travel/aylesbury-homeless-actiongroup

BHT SUSSEX Providing housing as well as support, specialist advice and guidance to people in East Sussex, BHT Sussex is both a housing association and a homeless charity. Covering a broad range of services, the charity sees its role as to challenge the causes of homelessness, poverty and marginalisation, as well as to deal with the consequences. It does this by providing support with work, learning and employment, mental health and well-being, addiction services, legal advice and housing services. charitable.travel/bht-sussex

SINGLE HOMELESS PROJECT A Londonwide charity, the Single Homeless Project works towards its vision – of a society where everyone has a place to call home and the chance to live a fulfilling life – by helping single Londoners at every stage of homelessness. From supporting people in crisis to helping people take the final steps towards independence and employment, the Single Homeless Project makes a difference to 10,000 lives every year. It also works to tackle the underlying causes of homelessness and social exclusion, and makes the case for prevention and systemic change. shp.org.uk

CRISIS The UK national charity for people experiencing homelessness, Crisis offers year-round education, employment, housing and well-being services from centres in 11 areas across Scotland, Wales and England. Crisis’ main aim is to relieve the huge pressure of homelessness by helping people to find safe and affordable homes as quickly as possible, but the charity also provides support to help people access benefits, healthcare services and employment opportunities, and prioritises supporting people who find it difficult to access or are excluded from services that should be there to prevent or end their homelessness. charitable.travel/crisis BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288

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WHY I

donate... Tricia Birmingham is a director at Fred Olsen Travel and spent the month of September running 60 miles to raise funds and awareness

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for Crohn’s & Colitis UK. Here, she shares why When I signed up to run 60 miles in the month of September to raise money for Crohn’s & Colitis UK it didn’t sound too bad – I could run those miles at any point during that time. But then when I broke it down and realised that I had to run two miles every day for 30 days, it became more of a challenge! I wanted to do something to help Crohn’s & Colitis UK as the charity is very dear to me personally. I’ve got two sons and in 2021 my oldest started at naval college to follow his dream of becoming a ship’s captain. But it wasn’t long after his 18th birthday when he was away at sea and he got really poorly. To begin with, we just thought there must be a virus going round. But as time went on his symptoms got worse and he was eventually hospitalised and diagnosed with a condition called ulcerative colitis, which is an inflammatory bowel disease (IBD). It was such a shock to us, particularly at such a young age, and there’s

no cure for IBD – it simply has to be managed, supported and it becomes a way of life. It was an enormous burden for him to take on, particularly just as he was starting out on his career – there was a lot of uncertainty around if he’d be able to continue at naval college. Two years on from the diagnosis, it’s been a relief that he was able to continue at college and has just spent a year at sea. His medical licence was restricted so he could only be in UK waters, but his company have supported him throughout and found a ship just off the coast of Grimsby for him to complete his apprenticeship. It was a bit different to the Caribbean seas he’d been expecting! It was around the time of his diagnosis that I came across Crohn’s & Colitis UK, and started to investigate how they could help my son not just learn to physically manage the condition but also develop the mental health to have that resilience and determination to not let this diagnosis impact the rest of his life. At the time I was a director of a large travel company and I realised I had a bit of Crohn’s & Colitis UK a platform works towards improving to help raise lives today and a world free from Crohn’s and awareness Colitis tomorrow. of hidden crohnsandcolitis.org.uk disabilities within

Here to support

the organisation. I’m now director of tour operations at Fred Olsen Travel and am continuing to raise awareness there too – figures show one in five of the UK population are disabled and of these, 80 per cent are hidden disabilities, so that’s over 10 million people with a hidden disability. When it came to running in September, I started off really well and had every intention of doing two miles a day. That quickly went out the window as I was travelling a lot for work during the month, so I ended up running not just at home in Liverpool but in Ipswich and Felixstowe too, then also overseas on board a number of cruise ships! I’d be lapping the deck, determined to get my miles in, but it was confusing at times as Strava would mistake the ship’s movement for me, and tell me I’d run 10 miles in 30 minutes. I don’t know what’s next for me in terms of challenges, but I do know I want to keep raising awareness of hidden disabilities. In my new role at Fred Olsen Travel, I hope I can inspire other people to feel empowered to do whatever they put their mind to, too.

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Top ten

RESPONSIBLE HOTELS

in Asia

These resorts and lodges are leading the way in sustainable efforts, says Charitable Travel’s

Ali Nicholls

50 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

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BUAHAN, BANYAN TREE ESCAPE, BALI, INDONESIA Located near the small village of Buahan, a 40-minute drive north of Ubud, Bali’s Banyan Tree Escape is hidden among many layers of flora in the heart of the Balinese jungle with views of the mountain peaks. Banyan Tree Escape has a ‘no walls, no doors’ concept, encouraging guests to reconnect with nature. Follow a local farmer on a tour of his land, foraging for native fruits and edible plants. See how winged beans and peppercorns grow in the wild, taste raw coffee cherries and try raw honey from stingless bees, before rounding off the experience with traditional delicacies hand-made by the farmer’s wife.

GAL OYA LODGE, SRI LANKA Immerse yourself in nature, soak up the local culture and discover an ancient land untouched by time at this eco-lodge that spreads across 20 acres of private jungle in the east of Sri Lanka. Nearby is Gal Oya, one of Sri Lanka’s most remote and least visited national parks – it’s rich in wildlife and home to the Vedda people, Sri Lanka’s forest-dwelling indigenous people. Explore this natural paradise through the experiences on offer, including a walk with Vedda chieftains and boat safaris to spy elephants.

CARDAMOM TENTED CAMP, CAMBODIA A three-way initiative between Minor Group, YAANA Ventures and the Wildlife Alliance, the Cardamom Tented Camp is an eco-tourism project located in the remote and biodiverse Botum Sakor National Park, created to ensure the land and its biodiversity don’t fall into the hands of loggers, poachers and sand-dredging operations. There are just nine safaristyle tents, with simple facilities but a good level of comfort, and guests are encouraged to explore the local area, accompanied by knowledgeable ranger guides to learn about the ecosystem and the valuable work being done to protect it.

EL NIDO RESORTS, PALAWAN, PHILIPPINES The northern part of Palawan province is blessed with crystal-clear waters, pristine beaches, and a wealth of flora and fauna, and it’s here you’ll find El Nido’s four island resorts. Set among spectacular ancient limestone cliffs that tower over marine sanctuaries teeming with innumerable species of tropical fish and coral, as well as five species of endangered sea turtles, check into one of El Nido’s resorts and enjoy experiences and services that promote respect for El Nido’s local people and culture. Take your pick from eco-adventure, ecodiscovery, eco-sanctuary or eco-luxury. BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288

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Luxury top ten

GAYANA MARINE RESORT, SABAH, MALAYSIA Set on Gaya Island’s crescent Malohom Bay off the coast of Sabah, Gayana Marine Resort is a picturesque destination that balances ecology and indulgent luxury. Its 52 overwater tropical villas boast vistas of the aquamarine sea, mangrove forest or tropical jungle, and each one is designed to make the most of the lulling sounds of the surf beneath the villa. At the heart of the resort is the protection and regeneration of the island’s precious marine environment at the on-site Marine Ecology Research Centre. The only one of its kind on an island resort, it propagates endangered giant clams and coral reefs.

THE DATAI, LANGKAWI, MALAYSIA Nature sits at the very core of The Datai Langkawi’s DNA, and when you’re surrounded by some of the best, it’d be foolish not to let it shine. Set on a 46-acre site among 10-million-year-old virgin rainforest that stretches to a perfect crescent of sand, each of the 121 rooms, suites and villas look out on the lush canopy. Expect all the services of a luxury hotel, but with additional experiences centred on its location, including a Nature Centre with mini laboratories to encourage families to learn about ecology, rainforest treks with naturalists and permaculture-garden tours sharing insight into The Datai’s sustainability commitments.

AS GOOD AS IT GETS

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Whether you’re dreaming of a silky beach on a private island, a stylish hotel in a vibrant city or a jungle trek to spy exotic wildlife, Charitable Travel Luxury will help you plan your ideal holiday and donate 5% of the price to a UK charity of your choice at no extra cost. Wherever it is, a luxury holiday always centres on discovering unique destinations and enjoying authentic experiences. With over 25 years’ experience in luxury travel and Charitable Travel’s #TravelForGood ethos at heart, our expert Lizzi is waiting to craft a trip that is your kind of luxury.

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Luxury top ten

KEEMALA, PHUKET, THAILAND Hidden among a canopy of lush tropical trees in the hills of Phuket, Keemala is a luxury resort inspired by the values of Buddhism and designed to respect nature. Built around what was already there, the resort is an evergreen wonderland and has been carefully designed to protect the ecosystem. Guests are encouraged to meet the rescued residents of Keemala, such as the water buffalo, goats and peacocks, and learn about their significance in Thai culture, while on the menu you’ll find no shortage of vegetarian or vegan meals.

SIX SENSES CON DAO, VUNG TAU, VIETNAM As a tiny archipelago off the southern coast of Vietnam, Con Dao allures intrepid travellers to its shores to enjoy sandy beaches, coral reefs, and marine life. Inland, much of the island is covered by the jungly Con Dao National Park; the resort is where the two meet with dreamy vistas of both Dat Doc beach and the Lo Voi mountains. A protected spot for turtles, they nest on the beach from May to October, and guests can join Con Dao’s conservation efforts to help hatchlings. From February to July is the best time to visit for diving in Con Dao’s marine protected area.

SONEVA FUSHI, MALDIVES Soneva Fushi is a natural treasure. One of the largest islands in the Maldives, it’s in the country’s only UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Baa Atoll. Since opening in 1995, no plastic has been used at Soneva Fushi – all amenities are in reusable ceramic bottles and every guest is given a cotton bag to take home their empty plastics for proper disposal. Designed with natural materials, the resort has its own vegetable garden, solar power plant and recycling centre and has put sustainability at the heart of everything it does.

NIHI SUMBA, SUMBA ISLAND, INDONESIA On the remote island of Sumba in south-eastern Indonesia lies Nihi Sumba, a resort that’s setting the benchmark for combining luxury with sustainable tourism. Operating solely on biofuel, it puts considerable effort into its recycling, organic farming, smart composting and water-recycling system. Each of the 27 private villas has been built with sustainable materials and has dreamy views of the turquoise sea and isolated beach, while further afield guests can explore the beauty of the island on horseback, discover unspoilt waterfalls, snorkel the preserved reef and experience the island’s world-famous surf break. Profits from the resort go towards the Sumba Foundation, which provides humanitarian aid through village-based projects. BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288

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Secrets® Tulum Resort & Beach Club Experience stunning jungle-luxury near the heart of Tulum. Complete with an exclusive private beach club, this all-suite resort features boho-elegant décor, cenote-inspired courtyards and our signature Unlimited-Luxury® inclusions for a picturesque escape with lush, exotic surroundings. Visit charitable.travel/ hyatt-inclusive-collection for more information and to book. Terms and conditions apply. See website for details.

Head south as far as you can down the eastern coast of America and at the end of US Route 1 is the surprising city of Key West. It’s the largest city of the Florida Keys, the long, thin archipelago that stretches south of Miami and splits the Gulf of Mexico from the Atlantic Ocean. But why surprising? Because this city, as the crow flies, is closer to Havana in Cuba than Miami on the Florida mainland and is heavily influenced not just by that island but the rest of the Caribbean too. It’s a welcoming inclusive enclave – very LGBTQ+ friendly – and surrounded by coral reefs. The sea plays a huge part in both its history and its presentday appeal, with lots of activities to get out and about on the water.

out mor e nd

above lobsters hiding under boulders, sting rays disguised against the sand and even a moray eel, poking its head out from a little cave. Back on land, I take a cycling tour of the small city with Key Lime Bike Tours, where our tour guide James gives a thoroughly entertaining

Colourful Duval Street

Fresh fish is a big deal on the menus here, and the Half Shell Raw Bar on the waterfront

K ey L ime Bike

serves some of the best

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KEY WEST By Rebecca Miles

charitab l

vel tra e.

Postcard from

it’s got the largest pool in Key West and is a 10-minute shuttle from the old town To do that, I join a snorkelling and dolphinspotting tour with Honest Eco, which runs Key West’s first electric catamaran. Within 15 minutes of leaving the Historic Seaport marina, a couple of dolphins appear on the bow then at a sponge garden we snorkel

At sea with Honest Eco

potted history of the past 200 years, including cameos from Ernest Hemingway, President Truman, the US Navy and Cuban cockerels. Key West is compact, so is easy to walk or cycle around and its streets are lined with great places to eat and drink. I find plenty of independent businesses – highlights include Books & Books, owned by the author Judy Blume, dinner and Randy Roberts’ drag show at La Te Da, the centre of Key West’s nightlife, and inventive vegan food at Date & Thyme on Fleming Street. Spending a few days here it’s clear to see why such a colourful cast of characters have made the journey to Key West over the years.

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RAISE A TOAST TO THE

Wine Garden of England! Katy Mason

Girl About West Kent, , shines a light on some of the premium vineyards for wine lovers to visit in the Garden of England, as well as highlighting four of the best tour experiences in the area

F CHAPEL DOWN

orget Tuscany or Champagne – if you’re looking to sip wine in the vines, Kent is the place to be. It’s an exciting time for English wine – with new vineyards popping up yearly and a wealth of fine wines being produced, the South East of England is fast becoming one of the world’s most interesting wine regions. Sharing similar soil, terrains and climate as many of the prime grape-growing spots in France, the Kent countryside is bursting with an abundance of sun-kissed vineyards for wine enthusiasts to enjoy. With so many to choose from, it may seem impossible to know where to start, so here’s my guide to some of the top luxury wineries in Kent and the best ways to explore them.

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Chapel Down

Perhaps the most well-known of Kent’s award-winning wineries, the only way to kick off an English wine pilgrimage has to be with a day at the iconic Chapel Down. Leaders and frontrunners in the production of English wine, Chapel Down has made a prolific name for itself as a luxury brand thanks to its partnerships with the English & Welsh Cricket Board and the Oxford & Cambridge Boat Race. Now, Chapel Down is the undisputed home of world-class

still and sparkling English wines, paving the way for others over the past 20 years. Located near the picturesque market town of Tenterden, visit Chapel Down’s lush, sprawling vineyards for guided tours, tastings and experiences, before exploring its beautiful on-site herb garden and well-stocked shop. To complete the ultimate gourmet day out, I highly recommend soaking up the spectacular views and wine at its fabulous two AA Rosette and Michelin Bib Gourmet restaurant the Swan, which offers two and three course menus full of delicious local produce.

THE FAMILY BUSINESS

Balfour Winery

Another great producer of English sparkling wine in Kent, Balfour Winery on the Hush Heath Estate is famed for its award-winning wines, along with Jake’s beer and cider. A family run estate near Staplehurst, there is a strong focus on the preservation of wildlife, orchards and woodlands on the estate, along with its production of highlyacclaimed still and sparkling wines. Created by wine-loving estate owners Richard and Leslie BalfourLynn, their first vine was planted in 2002 when they turned their hand to winemaking with a view to producing a pink English sparkling wine to rival those from

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Girl About Travel

Girl Abou t Travel is a unique created b online pla y travel in tform dustry ex and a tou p er ts – a journ rism marke alist ting and co and provi mms spec des conte ia list – n t for women amazing who wan memorie t to make s with thei UK or over r loved on es, either seas. A tru in the sted partn Girl Abou er of Char t Travel’s itable Trav content is el, created b of female y a networ writers, A KA the Gir k l A bout Blog – the offici Squad al Girl Abou ts in their counties. cities and Follow th em on Inst agram. charitable .travel/gir l-about

How to get around the vineyards WINE TOURS OF KENT

Set up in 2019, Wine Tours Of Kent is all about exploring and discovering Kent’s finest wineries in a fun, relaxed and informative way. It offers exceptional full day tours and mini breaks via minibus for private groups and individuals wanting to try some of Kent’s awardwinning and up-andcoming wines.

CYCLE THE VINEYARDS

If you’re looking to make a weekend of it, Cycle The Vineyards offers two- and three-day cycling tours to allow time to soak up the Kent countryside and enjoy the extensive gourmet food and drink on offer.

VINE + COUNTRY TOURS

Run by local expert wine guides Steph and Jamie, Vine + Country Tours offers full- and half-day tours which include vineyard visits, tutored tastings and its signature ‘vineyard feature lunch’.

UK ELECTRIC BIKE CENTRE

For a more independent day out, cycle Kent’s awardwinning vineyards on an electric bike. Start from Headcorn Aerodrome with either a full- or half-day hire to experience some of the wonderful country pubs and vineyards.

The Kent countryside shares similar soil, terrains and climate as many of the prime grape-growing spots in France Champagne. No less than five years later, the team’s Brut Rosé became the first English wine to win a gold medal at the International Wine Challenge, and they went on to provide the official English wine for the 2012 London Olympics. Balfour Winery runs guided tours all year round, as well as hosting Dining Clubs and Tasting Masterclasses. Its on-site restaurant, the View, certainly lives up to its name, offering spectacular panoramas and serving fresh, local and seasonal platters.

THE SPARKLING GEM

Gusbourne

Though the Gusbourne Estate dates back to 1410, it wasn’t until 2004 when South African orthopaedic surgeon Andrew Weeber saw potential in the land that it became a prime growing spot for English wine. Now, Gusbourne produces a wide range of still and

sparkling wines that continue to win prestigious international awards every year. Just six miles from the South Coast in the pretty village of Appledore, Gusbourne’s vineyards are perfectly positioned and provide an idyllic escape from the everyday. They even credit the ‘distinctive salty tang’ of their wines to being so close to the sea. Enjoy tours and tastings across its expansive hillside vineyards, and a seasonal meal at its picture-perfect tasting room, the Nest. It also hosts special events throughout the year, including theatre performances and pizza evenings.

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October/November 2023 Issue 2

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autumn Discover England’s coast and other car-free adventures across the UK

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A day in

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THE LIFE OF...

Dr Lee Collier is medical director of Lia’s

Wings, a charity that provides hospital air transfers for critically ill babies and children

A typical day...

I pick up any new requests for transfers, speak to medical teams at the hospitals involved and review the medical reports provided. I also arrange meetings between the charity team, flight platform and the NHS teams to discuss previous flights and make sure we are always reviewing our work to see where we can develop and Lia’s Wings is the improve the service. UK’s only air ambulance equipment to monitor oxygen We fly two or three patients each charity, transforming lives through hospital air transfers levels, heart rate, blood pressure month, but this isn’t uniform across for children. It provides holistic and temperature. For babies, their the year as we tend to have busy care for the whole family to ensure temperature is very important which patches across school holidays. I’m improved outcomes. is why most babies will travel in always involved in planning each charitable.travel/lias-wings/ our flight incubator. We also have a mission and am very hands on with handheld lab that can do blood tests in the family involved. Often families flight if needed. have been stuck in the wrong place We have an amazing team to raise for many weeks or even months. For funds and awareness of what we do. families abroad they may not have had Amanda, our PR and events manager; much information about their child’s care due Rebecca, our head of engagement; and Eloise, our to language and cultural barriers, so speaking to me as a British doctor might be their first opportunity to really fundraising assistant, work tirelessly to represent the charity and build support alongside the CEO Charlotte. explore and understand what has been happening to I get to join some fundraising events, sometimes their child. Even for transfers within the UK, parents will just for the fun of it and sometimes to give a speech have a lot of questions about how the flight will work or presentation. A recent highlight was when we and what will happen on the day. announced the charity’s new name and vision at an When a baby has been born prematurely abroad, event hosted in an aircraft hangar in Bristol with Capital there is a process to request emergency travel Air Ambulance. documents in lieu of a passport. The process is complex and frustrating, so we provide practical support with this. Parents often need an emotional sounding board, so I share this responsibility with the charity CEO Charlotte Young, who is brilliant at supporting parents. Is telling parents that they’ll need to wait We will typically have many phone calls and messages longer to come home. This might be because their in the time leading up to a flight. child is too unwell to fly, but usually it comes down to I do carry out a lot of the flights myself alongside a fundraising or needing to complete more paperwork specialist nurse, but I’m trying to learn to delegate for travel documents. and we have a great team of consultants and nurse practitioners who are extremely capable! I get a lot of support from our partners at Capital Air Ambulance to arrange the logistics of each flight and make Is meeting a child and their parents in the sure the equipment is prepared and ready to go. hospital and seeing their look of relief when the Lia’s During the flight, the specialist team use medical Wings team arrives to take them home.

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The hardest thing...

The best bit...

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for Life

the future

Naturesave is having a positive impact on climate change, says its head of marketing and sustainability, Nick Oldridge

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WHAT IS NATURESAVE INSURANCE? Naturesave is an ethical insurance broker in the UK that was founded to help create a more sustainable insurance industry. We have been awarded the top rating and Best Buy Status by Ethical Consumer, for both home and travel insurance. We provide home and travel insurance for individuals and business insurance for some of the UK’s greenest businesses, and plant a tree for every insurance policy we issue, via our partner, Trees for Life. Last year we joined the Benefact Group, a group of financial services businesses that gives all available profits to charities and good causes.

WHERE DID THE IDEA FOR NATURESAVE INSURANCE COME FROM? Naturesave was founded in

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TREES FOR LIFE VOLUNTEER

1993 by former Lloyds insurance broker, Matt Criddle. Matt realised that not only was the insurance industry not taking the climate crisis seriously, it would also be on the front line in dealing with the consequences of climate impacts when it came to paying out claims. At the same time, it was clear that the industry possessed an almost unparalleled potential to reduce the impact of climate change in two main ways. Firstly, due to its underwriting activities – no fossil fuel project can get the go ahead without insurance, so the industry has serious influence over how quickly the world decarbonises. Secondly, insurers invest our premiums to guarantee they can pay any potential claims, and as a result the industry is one of the world’s largest institutional investors. Again, this gives the

industry significant influence over tackling the climate crisis as currently, the insurance industry has over $1 trillion invested in fossil fuels!

WHAT IS YOUR IMPACT? We have two areas of impact. The first is to influence the insurance industry itself. We do that by highlighting the potential insurers have to stop fossil fuel expansion and instead to drive the transition to renewables. We achieve this by lobbying the insurers we work with to make further changes. We also educate consumers and business owners about the issue and find them insurance options that are the most sustainable. The second area of impact is via our charity, the Naturesave Trust. Since our company was founded 30 years ago, we have donated over £1 million into the Trust.

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The Trust acts independently of Naturesave and provides grants of between £500 and £5,000 to smallscale, grassroots environmental projects across the UK, pictured here. The diverse range of over 500 funded projects covers renewable energy, low carbon transport, nature conservation, community agriculture, recycling and sustainable fashion.

WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE CHANGE/IMPROVE IN YOUR AREA? Tackling the climate crisis is becoming a race against time, especially as the UK is predicted to significantly miss its next carbon budget target and is currently expanding fossil fuel production. The insurance industry has the power to change this. We would like to see fossil fuel free insurance offered to consumers and businesses. Some insurers are making changes in this direction, a couple are even getting close. However, many are still underwriting new fossil fuel projects and still carry large investment holdings in oil and gas. It’s time for the industry to have a red line on supporting any new fossil projects. Consumers can help make this happen, by asking this question of their current insurer and at renewal, choosing a provider who is doing the right thing. Alternatively, they can talk

to us, and we will find the most sustainable insurance option that meets their needs.

CAN YOU GIVE AN EXAMPLE OF HOW YOU’VE HELPED A COMMUNITY? So far this year the Trust has focused on plastics, river pollution and sustainable fashion, and have had more than 150 applications from organisations working in their communities to combat these problems. We are proud to have pledged more than £40k towards these projects so far.

climate crisis, and shift to more ethical alternatives. It’s now time to shift that spotlight to insurance, as our industry has possibly more influence than most when it comes to the challenge of urgently decarbonising our economy.

WHAT IS A SOCIAL ENTERPRISE TO YOU? To us, this means an organisation with a primary purpose that is more about people, planet and communities than about making money.

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGE?

WHAT’S NEXT FOR NATURESAVE INSURANCE?

We have seen a big shift in awareness in banking and pensions, as many consumers move away from organisations funding and investing in the

We are currently developing an Ethical Insurance Manifesto, which sets out how we think insurers should now be behaving in relation to fossil fuels and the energy transition.

Ian Strachan

AND HOW DO YOU HAVE THAT IMPACT?

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Naturesave exists to provide more sustainable insurance options for consumers and businesses covering everything from travel insurance and home protection to liability and cyber insurance naturesave.co.uk

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86%

DIVERSITY

ROLE MODELS

OF PUPILS REGULARLY HEAR PHRASES SUCH AS ‘THAT’S SO GAY’ OR ‘YOU’RE SO GAY’ IN SCHOOL

in numbers

Diversity Role Models (DRM) is a dynamic LGBTQ+ anti-bullying charity. Founded in 2011, DRM is at the forefront of promoting diversity and inclusion in schools and communities across the UK, and is dedicated to ending homophobic, biphobic and transphobic bullying. DRM helps create a more compassionate and inclusive society by empowering the next generation with the knowledge, empathy, and courage to embrace differences and respect all individuals, regardless of their background, gender, sexual orientation, or identity. Through in-person and online workshops, DRM provides young people with the opportunity to engage with inspiring Role Models who share their personal stories of being LGBTQ+ or an ally, which challenge stereotypes and foster understanding. DRM also offers valuable resources and support to educators, schools, and communities to create safe and inclusive environments for all.

25%

OF SECONDARY STUDENTS THINK SOMEONE WHO MIGHT BE LGBTQ+ WOULD FEEL COMFORTABLE COMING OUT AT THEIR SCHOOL

(Embracing Difference, Ending Bullying Impact Report 2023)

100%

OF PRIMARY STAFF THINK DRM’S STUDENT WORKSHOPS WILL HELP STUDENTS TO RESPECT EACH OTHER AND THEIR DIFFERENCES (Embracing Difference, Ending Bullying Impact Report 2023)

95%

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OF PRIMARY STUDENTS WILL RESPECT PEOPLE WHO ARE DIFFERENT TO THEM AFTER ONE OF DRM’S PRIMARY SESSIONS

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ALMOST THREE-QUARTERS (70%) OF LGBTQ+ YOUNG PEOPLE QUESTIONED SAID THEIR MENTAL HEALTH HAS WORSENED DURING THE COVID OUTBREAK; ONLY HALF OF NON-LGBTQ+ YOUNG PEOPLE SAID THE SAME (BBC News, 2021)

45%

of LGBTQ+ young people have experienced homophobic, biphobic or transphobic bullying

64%

of LGBTQ+ young people never tell anyone when they are bullied for being LGBTQ+

ALMOST HALF (46%) OF LGBTQ+ SCHOOL STUDENTS IN ENGLAND DO NOT FEEL SAFE TO BE THEMSELVES AT SCHOOL, A STUDY HAS REVEALED (Pink News, 2020) DRM DELIVERED

1,179

LGBTQ+ ANTIBULLYING WORKSHOPS TO 32,553 PUPILS (From Sept 2022 to July 2023)

DRM MOBILISED MORE THAN 300 TRAINED VOLUNTEER ROLE MODELS, COMMUNICATING DIRECTLY WITH STUDENTS OF ALL AGES (From Sept 2022 to July 2023)

FIND OUT MORE AT CHARITABLE.TRAVEL/ DIVERSITY-ROLE-MODELS

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