NEWSPAPER #6
CLOUD OF FASHION
LES DEMAINS DE LA MODE Analyses & stratégies pour un monde inédit
N E W S PA P E R # 6
Première Vision. Laboratoire d’idées pour demain.
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Our new campaign by Khanh Nguyen A behind the scenes look at the Première Vision Paris S/S 21 image
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Societal Decodings An interview with Serge Carreira
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Portrait of the season
The shoe, a story of emancipation
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Can’t-miss events at the show
An interview with Olivier Theyskens
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An interview with Spencer Phipps
An interview with Jürgen Sailer, Dries Van Noten
S/S 21 Fashion Information
In February
Smart Creation
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Innovation
What if the solution were to be found in nature?
Leather
Maison d’Exceptions
Designs
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E-Business
Do you know what a DNVB is ?
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American Fashion
An interview with Steven Kolb, CFDA
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PV Around the world
Upcoming shows around the world
N E W S PA P E R # 6
Les Etats GĂŠnĂŠraux de la mode par Philippe Pasquet / Pascal Morand
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L E S É TAT S G E N E R A U X D E L A M O D E
How would you define the present moment? We are witnessing a real revolution that extends far beyond the world of fashion. It's a paradigm shift from a growth imperative to what is known as “inclusive prosperity�. It's not about decreasing growth but about taking into account new criteria - environmental, societal, etc. - together with traditional financial imperatives. The idea is to find an economically viable model that incorporates more than just financial elements. The model is no longer limited to performance alone.
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Today, there seems to be an overriding demand for eco-responsibility. How is this transforming the industry? It's a concern impacting our entire universe. Before, companies were interested only in their bottom-line performance, now they have to focus on sustainable development. This leads to limiting risks in terms of sustainability. It's a transformation that must influence all stages, from raw materials to manufacturing processes, from more rational production processes to more limited supply chains, especially in terms of reducing carbon footprints. The most prestigious companies now have a huge opportunity, because they've reduced the outsourcing of their production. Fast fashion has further to go, as its share of responsibility is larger in terms of both volumes and structures. There is a massive awareness. What's changed is that now we've entered a second phase, an action dynamic, following a period of reflection.
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L E S É TAT S G E N E R A U X D E L A M O D E
…/… There's talk of a risk of a slowdown in consumption, with the boom of upcycling and more reasoned purchasing decisions. Is this the trend of the future? It is not simply a trend, it is a groundswell, which goes hand in hand with a demand for novelty and immediacy. And there's a paradox here, a dual and somewhat contradictory expectation, at least on the surface. On the one hand, there is a hunger for something new and, on the other hand, a quest for authenticity, quality and sustainability. We want something new, but it has to be meaningful. What brings meaning? A
deep anchoring in lifestyles, with an openness to the world, an aesthetic and creative dimension. The craftsman helps to provide meaning in the same way a designer does. They both help address a need for transparency.
“ What's changed is that now we've entered a second phase, an action dynamic, following a period of reflection. ”
Yet in this context, fashion consumption continues to rise. Isn't that also paradoxical? New markets are opening up to fashion and driving consumer growth. But make no mistake about it, the problem in fashion isn't so much consumption as it is overproduction. Unsold stocks of clothing are huge, and are currently estimated at more than half of total production. This isn't just due to a gap between supply and demand, it's also due to production blindly meeting growth and margin requirements. Today, it's sometimes more profitable to produce 1,500 tee-shirts rather than 1,000, without a demonstrated ability to sell them. But here again, things are changing. The challenges being faced by some fast fashion chains are indicative of this changing approach.
What do you think of the boom in upcycling? Re-using raw materials is one of the industry's virtuous paths. The explosion of the second-hand market is highly indicative of a shift in consumer thinking. It represents a responsible commitment on their part. It also reflects a shift in their relationships to possessions. This is a major breakthrough. We are living in a moment of hedonistic immediacy. We want something now, but not necessarily to keep forever. These second-hand channels allow us to cede to temptation without guilt. How can brands best respond to this entirely new situation? It's not so much a matter of selling more, but of selling well, selling better. This new paradigm is disrupting the entire supply chain: raw materials, supplies, production facilities and distribution channels. Stores are becoming retail experiences, not just sales spaces. Because one answer to this search for meaning is to create an experience - an intangible but qualitative response that meets the need for well-being. There's an identity side to clothing. More than ever, consumers need to feel in tune with a fashion house's values. There has to be a certain harmony between the customer and the brand. There's a need to feel part of not just one community but a multiplicity of complementary communities. They all contribute to creating the person as a whole, their identity. This dimension is a response to profoundly changing ties to family, social class, religion, etc. There's less predestination and more self-determination.
Is the fashion industry aware of these issues? How is it approaching them? The success of Jacquemus is quite telling. It has created a universe and a fashion statement. It is a dense, plural, spontaneous and immediate universe. There's instinct and authenticity, but also a pertinent and coherent development strategy and risk-taking. In response to a fashion world that cultivates snobbery and elitism, Jacquemus evokes a popular culture, the countryside, the South of France, free of any artifice. It engages in an arresting manner with its audience without limiting itself to clichĂŠs. Today, otherness is essential but it also has to be open-minded, find favourable interest. We have to offer meaning and embody essential values. Beyond the new codes, the big question here is the "soul". That's what creates a certain specificity in the eyes of others. Fashion is ephemeral, but fashion houses can withstand the test of time if they are situated in an authenticity that embraces collective aspirations. In my view, this is the sole key to success, and it points up the limitations of a dialogue focused on know-how. Which is essential - but we're not looking for virtuosity for virtuosity's sake. We need to build relationships. We have to mirror our surroundings with a perspective that's both bold and relevant.
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N E W S PA P E R # 6
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“ Being eco-responsible is not an aim for the future, it's something we try to do better every day. �
Materiality.
Spring-summer 21 favours transparencies that are both light and dense, focusing on layering and a renewed desire for zero weights for featherlight garments. Volumes are more structured and rounder. It's an ode to generous pleats and suppleness - knits, leather, new viscoses produced in a reasoned and responsible way. This suppleness also applies to accessories, with rounded edges, softened corners, and to decorations as well, with a profusion of imposing motifs, especially florals.
Tactility.
The only rule is: no uniformity! Digital developers go for truly amazing designs, rising to the challenge of offering inspirations as fresh and fun as video games. 3D elaborations influence designs, seeking to showcase singularity, and enhancing materials with raw aspects: a grain to fabrics and leathers, neps and multilayers. We turn away from smoothness in favour of an
ultra-sophisticated, brutalistic spirit.
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+ For more trends decodings, make the most of the show in February by exploring: • The 12 fashion forums, where the most inspiring materials of the season are presented. • The film of inspiration • Our fashion seminars • The Première Vision colour range • Throughout the year on premierevision.com/ en/fashion and in the PV Newsletter
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