LICHTING 2014 VOTINGCARDS
Anna Kathryn Gregor
Loeki Mulder
Anne van den Boogaard
Katrien Baaij
Anna Kathryn Gregor
Niki Milioni
Wenda Harmsen
HENRIETTE TLANUS
Anneleen Berkels
concept The concept of ‘Lichting’ is simple: the best academy graduates of one year in one central catwalk show. In the audience are the 700 most important people for the next step in their careers: fashion journalists and influential stylists, ready to spot the next big thing; CEO’s and design managers on the look-out for talent; and the all-important players-behindthe-scenes, all eager to see what the Dutch academies have brought forth. Lichting was founded in 2007 to bridge the gap between the academies and students on the one side and the talent-hungry fashion industry on the other. Lichting brings together the very best of each of Holland’s seven fashion academies. Both decision makers within the audience and a professional international panel of fashion connaisseurs will decide who receives the ‘G-Star RAW Talent Award’ in the year 2014 Lichting 2014, the sixth edition, is a project of HTNK Fashion Recruitment & Consultancy, The New Institute and G-Star RAW.
HENRIETTE TILANUS
1 let the dust settle My graduation collection ‘Let the dust settle in’ is inspired on the stylish world of Lady Edith Sitwell. An eccentric writer from the early twenties with an uncanny sense for drama and style. Cecil Beaton’s portraits of Lady Sitwell in her garden and house showcase her love of art but also shows a glimpse of loneliness. I envision this loneliness to be a consequence of her misunderstood beautiful creative mind. In my perception, the world needs these creative visionaries like water and air. My collection is a tribute to her and other kindred spirits. I collected imagery of the Lady’s outfits, interior, garden and society life and studied her poems. I imagined her in today’s time, sitting in her beautiful ancient house but part of a modern world. The prints of her outfit would have been bleached and partly devoured by moths. Her embroideries are frayed and all of it is covered in a small layer of dust. I started experimenting with textiles; I embroidered on plastics and hand painted checks, dots and bleached stripes on denim. I ripped out threads, knitted parts and created abstract flowers from stuff I found in my atelier and in the streets. These textile experiments I translated into a womens collection; modern but eccentric, original and outspoken but wearable and up-to-date. ARTEZ, INSTITUTE OF THE ARTS
ANNE VAN DEN BOOGAARD
2 infinity ‘n shit We do everything experimental till death is upon us. In our face mortality and lots of things seem futile. Love and music can save us, and do. While the giant grey monster grows more poisonous and volatile around us. Jaws clamping down and spewing ugly shit around. Everything is the same so we keep moving. This collection is about the element of surprise, about pushing the unexpected and being alive in every way possible. The urge to wake people up arose from my frustration that today’s society’s pretty dull. Most people don’t take risks or experience highs or lows. People live safe and colorless lives. With this collection I try to pinch them. It’s is about exploring boundaries within the aesthetics of ugliness in an anomalous way. Mocking conservative bridal dresses and ultraAmerican cheer outfits forms the foundation of this collection. Together with the sharp and progressive prints, the sweetness comes with anarchy. It’s soft and electric at the same time. AMSTERDAM FASHION INSTITUTE
DEWI BEKKER
3
‘I would like to drink beer high among the Aesir’ After reading lots of myths and fairy tales, I wondered what attracted me to these stories. Besides the fantasy elements, everyday life and humor are key ingredients as well. While designing, I love to play around with these themes. My menswear collection represents the ultimate balance of fantasy, everyday life and humor. I wanted to catch the feeling I get when reading fairy tales. This resulted in a collection full of experimental elements in classic garments. Surprising materials like tape, cork, felt and plastic beads add to the surrealistic mood of the garments. A bright color palette highlights my playful view on menswear. ROYAL ACADEMY OF ART, THE HAGUE
ANBASJA BLANKEN
4
the shakhinah glory ‘The SHAKHINAH glory’ is based on the symbolic and spiritual value of mystical light. Ever since one could speak of ‘cultures’ light has always played a symbolic role in rituals and religions. In some cases, light was attributed supernatural, divine and spiritual powers. Hence the term ‘enlightened’ women that refer to those who enlighten the spiritual routes of others through their veils. These women have the power to lead humanity to a higher state of consciousness and represent the highest state of holiness. Traditional craftsmanship shows an organic consistency in my collection of pants, veils and slim bodies. Sculptural circular shapes emphasize the waist and create an elegant feminine silhouette. UTRECHT SCHOOL OF THE ARTS
ANNA KATHRYN GREGOR
5 keep distance! A text of Arthur Schopenhauer in which he compares the behavior of porcupines with human society inspired my collection concept that reflects on human behavior in private and public spaces. Schopenhauer describes the human need for both affection and protection. People avoid getting hurt by trusting only their inner circle with their deepest wishes, dreams and feelings. “Keep your distance! Because I’m not willing to divulge myself because I don’t know if you are worth it.” The natural armor of the porcupine inspired my collection of deformed body shapes and the usage of elements of safety clothes. The process of metamorphosis of the porcupine is depicted in layers of clothing. Layers of wool, silk, cotton combined with big sculpted fake fur showpieces, build a layer of safety around the body. More layers equal more protection. My colour use is an exact copy of the colourful illustrations that are part of my inner core fantasies and emotions. Special thermal ink responding on body heat adds to the transitional character of the collection..
ACADEMY OF FINE ART / ZUYD UNIVERSITY, MAASTRICHT
KATRIEN BAAIJ
6 dinky boys Current shifts in youth culture inspire a new take on fashion. Global problems cause a sense of impotence on youth that results in action or at least a shift in values or desires of this generation. My ‘Dinky Boys’ collection is a representation of this new youth living in a meta-modernist time. It showcases a group of boys that found a new truth in a world where truth was lost. They turn to celebrating day-to-day happiness and their carefree childhood. Au contraire of other youth movements, they display their protest in subtle detail celebrating vulnerability as part of their male strength. Oversized silhouettes in transparent materials represent this new boy-man. The memories of dinosaurs and dad’s warm coat are translated in prints and soft colours. This positive nostalgia provides them grip for everyday life. WILLEM DE KOONING ACADEMY, ROTTERDAM
NIKI MILIONI
7
orama In the midst of creating my previous collection a radical turning point occurred. I realized that what I felt was missing was joy, satisfaction and additionally the personal and human relation to my realms of fashion. The necessity and responsibility had outgrown sole aesthetic reasoning. Being partly Greek, Greece’s current poignant situation has made me feel armourless. The context in which I wanted to reach out to was therefore naturally set. In the heart of Athens I encountered through Praksis, a Greek human rights organization, eight beautiful children from Afghanistan, refugees. Having a lovely playful time I got to know their lifestyles and preferences, which were important for my decisions on color, details and finishings as part of my design process. The collection is titled ORAMA, derived from ancient Greek language and meaning ‘vision’. All garments are made personally for each child, using natural materials, hand dyed and able to grow as they grow with incorporated Velcro tailoring. I simply want to share the joy and love of dressing, enforcing and transcending their inner visions. GERRIT RIETVELD ACADEMY, AMSTERDAM
MAY I HAVE YOUR VOTES PLEASE?
COME AND GIVE YOUR VOTE AT LICHTING 2014 MAY THE BEST DESIGNER WIN!
LICHTING 2014 AMSTERDAM | LONDEN
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HENRIETTE TILANUS ANNE VAN DEN BOOGAARD DEWI BEKKER ANNA KATHRYN GREGOR ANBASJA BLANKEN KATRIEN BAAIJ NIKI MILIONI
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HENRIETTE TILANUS ANNE VAN DEN BOOGAARD DEWI BEKKER ANNA KATHRYN GREGOR ANBASJA BLANKEN KATRIEN BAAIJ NIKI MILIONI
Wende Harmsen
Henriette Tilanus
Dewi Bakker
Jazz Kuipers
Niki Milioni
Maartje van Hooy
Niki Milioni
Anbasja Blanken
Loeki Mulder