THE NATION ASIANEWS November 9, 2008
TRAVEL, FOOD & DRINK, STYLE, ARTS AND TRENDS IN ASIA
WHERE BEAUTY GETS BORN Hot!
Hello dollies!
Here comes Kylie
TRAVEL, FOOD & DRINK, STYLE, ARTS AND TRENDS IN ASIA THE NATION ASIANEWS
November 9, 2008
BRIDGE TO PATPONG
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FLICK OF THE CHIC
P7 CHILDHOOD IS BACK!
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COVER Where clothes are born p9-11 P h otog raph er: Nanth asit N itmath a, Model : MR Mannaru mas Yu kol , c loth : Senada, Cover: Cloth by Flyn ow
All over Asia HA NOI IS HOWLING
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TOKYO’S TRESSED OUT
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TAIWANESE ESCAPE
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team
Editor: Phatarawadee Phataranawik | Deputy Editor: Khetsirin Pholdhampalit | Photo Editor: Kriangsak Tangjerdjarad | Photographers: Ekkarat Sukpetch, Anant Chantarasoot, Thanis Sudto, Nanthasit Nitmatha | Writers: Sirinya Wattanasukchai, Lisnaree Vichitsorasatra, Manta Klangboonkrong, Pattarawadee Saengmanee | Designers: Nibhon Appakarn, Pradit Phulsarikij, Ekkapob Preechasilp | Copy editors: Luci Standley and Rod Borrowman | Sub editor: Paul Dorsey | Contact: www.nationmultimedia.com/ACE, e-mail: ace@nationgroup.com. (02) 338 3461-2 ACE is published by NMG News Co LTD at 1854 Bangna-Trat Road, Bangkok
What’s Hot
Udom shares his head noise
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f ter closing his ar t show with Japanese illustrator Kin Shiotani at J Galler y on Wednesday, popular comedian Udom Taepanich is going solo at Galerie N from November 14 to December 23.
In “Rapper”, Udom translates the noises inside his head, using mixed media, into lines, colours and forms. If you sit quiet, he says, you’ll hear a mumbling in your head. He calls that “rap”, so we’re all rappers. The gallery is on Wireless Road near the Lumpini subway station and it’s open daily except Monday from 10 to 7. Call (02) 252 1592 or visit www.GalerieNBangkok.com.
Got free tickets for the Manics
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e’re givin’ away tickets to the 100 Rocks Festival coming up on November 29 and 30. The Manic Street Preachers are headlining a bill at Royal Thai Army Stadium that boasts more than 50 other acts.
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Here comes Kylie
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ith dozens of dazzling c o s t u m e s i n t o w, Australian pop diva Kylie Minogue finally makes her Thai debut on November 23 at Impact Arena. She’ll roll out dozens of hits from 10 albums in a two-hour show, part of her world tour. Book a seat at www.Thaiticketmajor.com.
For a chance at one of five pairs of two-day tickets courtesy of RS Dream Promotion, answer this double question: How many foreign bands are booked for the festival and what are their names? Send your answer with your contact information and “Manic” in the subject box to ace@nationgroup.com by Monday at 6pm. The winners will be announced in our next issue. Meanwhile, see www.100Community.com. November 9, 2008
Trends
Greener sole
The Nike Zvezdochka, a modular-designed shoe
The guys at Nike are rethinking styles to cut their carbon footprint Amy Eagleburger Bloomberg Ne ws
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ike Inc, the world’s largest athleticshoe maker, is racing to reduce waste and cut back on energy usage by designing new lines of ecofriendly shoes and clothing. All shoes will be redesigned to meet certain standards by 2011, Nike CEO Mark Parker says. Clothing must meet new guidelines by 2015, while other products have a deadline of 2020. “We’re combining innovation and sustainability to create a better, more responsible and more profitable company,” Parker says, noting that waste reduction has
helped improve the company’s profitability. “It’s good for our consumers, it’s good for our shareholders and ultimately it’s good for our plan.” Nike is also seeking to reduce the use of toxic materials in adhesives and cut back water and energy usage as well as packaging. Shoes including the Air Jordan XX3 basketball shoe and its bestselling Nike Pegasus running sneaker, and a clothing line for athletes at the Beijing Olympic Games made from 100-per-cent recycled polyester are part of the company’s spring 2009 “Considered Design” collection.
Air Jordan XX3
The 25th-anniversary Nike Pegasus running shoe
Long Ball, a slip-on sandal-style shoe
The Nike Woven shoe
The Nike Soaker, a shoe with which drains water after getting wet
The Nike Considered Boot
P h o t o / B L OO M B E R G
Nike’s show of eco-friendly footwear
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November 9, 2008
Trends Nuts for You Nuts for Leather
Gone Fishing
Spark of genius The glint in volker Haug’s eyes kindles beautiful lamps from ugly scrap Phatarawadee Phataranawik
Rudolf
Brother and sister November 9, 2008
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P h o t o / v o lker haug
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erman designer Volker Haug has uncovered a flickering beauty in the ugliest industrial materials. His innovative lamps are created from cable, coils of wire, electric cords – even boxing gloves. Haug’s DIY aesthetic rubs raw minimalism against unexpected forms to conjure up punchy colours and kooky shapes. His “Rudolf ” and “Wall Antler” wall lamp collections switch between black and white lamp holders and red and white candle bulbs. The “Four and Two Arm Antler” ceiling lamp moulds the same clash into different shapes. In “Nuts for You, Nuts for Leather” Haug has bolted a boxingglove cover to airfreight cable and ceiling plate. His industrialstrength sense of humour also runs through “Gone Fishing”, a light bulb hanging from a metal stand fishing-hook style. It’s wrapped in black leather with a silver lamp-holder of burgundy antique-style cord. These bright ideas were on display at the “Australian Design” group show of the recent Bangkok Design Festival. Born in Berlin and brought up in Switzerland before moving to make a name in London, Haug has been based in Melbourne for the last eight years. “My inspirations come from travelling,” the 34-year-old reveals to ACE. He started early, creating his first lamps out of wood – two bedside lights, four kitchen spots and a ceiling light – on holiday in the Czech Republic. “Playing with materials, I discovered I could see beyond their original functions and turn them into new products,” he explains, adding that nowadays each piece is crafted at his home-cum-studio. Switched on, each Haug lamp lights up to reveal an artwork. “But when it’s turned off, it has a different mood and look,” he says. Seemingly easy to copy, his design style is a temptation for any DIY enthusiast. “I’m happy my designs inspire others to have a go. I think everyone can be a creator,” he says. Visiting Bangkok’s bright lights for the second time, Haug found inspiration in the colourful nightlife and the improvised lighting at food stalls. Look out for a line of garish fluorescent lamps in the near future. Check out the eye-opening tour at www.VolkerHaug.com.
Go SHOPPING
Hello dollies!
An adorable little monster is Bt2,650.
An artist brings her fantasy cartoon world to life with a bunch of cute and friendly figures Pattarawadee Saengmanee
P h o t o / K hetsirin P o lthampalit
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hey are playful, chic and unique – meet Mes Amis, a bunch of hand-painted teakwood figurines whose colourful, quirky designs stole the hearts of visitors to this year’s Baan Lae Suan Fair. Each is the brainchild of ex-videogame artist Atchara “Kay” Chomnamon, who packed up her joystick months ago to carve real-life cartoon characters. French for “my friends”, the label has inspired the slogan “Dolls you can make friends with at home”. At the moment you can meet the cool wooden buddies at the Warehouse store in Siam Square or online at www.Alibaba.com. But from next month the dolls are getting even more sociable, hanging out at www. MesAmie268.com, the Be Trend Zone at Paragon and at Emporium shopping mall. “I started out wanting to create my own cartoons and then got the idea for the handpainted dolls, which people snapped up through websites like Ebay and Alibaba,” says Atchara, who graduated in Digital Arts in Australia. “The figures are based on Japanese animation and feature characters and animals that are both cute and weird”. Mes Amis also produces a collection of comfy but playful pillows inspired by Sushi and other Japanese food. For more information, call (086) 086 8822. | |
Fork out Bt1,600 for a ‘devil doll’.
A girl who’s all eyes costs Bt1,000.
Cartoon character Buttercup from Power Puff Girls is Bt1,000.
A set of five superheroes costs Bt1,450.
A colourful vision of Bangkok, yours for Bt1,700.
Figurines with cool designs – each costs Bt1,000. November 9, 2008
Cover
INSIDE THE STYLE HATCHERY Siam Centre is where Thai fashion designers are born. It’s got quite a family now, with more on the way Phatarawadee Phataranawik
November 9, 2008
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COVER
Tango
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hen it comes to soaking up fashion trends, you want to be on the third floor of Siam Centre, where more than 30 of Bangkok’s best designers are woven together in a tapestry of shops. “I always catch up on what’s happening at Siam Centre,” says celebrity MR Mannarumas Yukol, who’s got a wardrobe packed with duds from Flynow, Senada and Soda. “Compared to the foreign brands, clothes by Thai designers are slightly cheaper, but their designs are just as good!” Bangkok may still have a ways to go before it becomes a global fashion hub, but in the meantime, Siam Centre is Bangkok’s fashion hub. It’s one of the oldest malls in town, yet it’s as hip today as it was for teenagers three decades ago. “We’ve promoted Siam Centre as Thailand’s fashion focal point ever since it opened in 1973,” says Chadatip Chutrakul, the president of the firm that owns the mall. And, since the country wanted chic fashion, it had to grow some designers of its own. Among the Thai style-tsars who’ve been based at the mall are Somchai Kaewtong of Kai, Duangta Nan| 10 |
Tipayaphongpoosanaphong
thakwang of Soda and Sirichai Taharanont of Theatre. At first these designers were making outfits just for Thais, but Siam Centre long ago became a hot spot for togs tourists as well. If they come to Thailand for the shopping, this is the prime destination. Dubbed “the Vivian Westwood of Thailand”, Soda’s Duangta does amazing things with vintage dresses, producing chic, feminine looks. She’s also got a line called Baking Soda for the younger set that’s more relaxed yet still smart. Flynow, meanwhile, can fit you up from head to toes with anything at all — hand-crafted hats, necklaces straight out of the Romantic era, punk T-shirts and elegant lace gowns. For the very ladylike look, check out Senada, where the beauty of the female form is celebrated with draped dresses, embroidered blouses, neatly tailored trousers and comfy high-heel shoes. Smart-casual printed clothes are the big draw at Greyhound, and if cool black and white are your favoured tones, this is the brand that can’t be missed. If there’s a party in your immediate future, head to Tango for colourful hand-made bags and see Tipayaphong Poosanaphong for dreamy accressories and shiny, embroidered evening gowns
Theatre
of the sort that cause sensations on red carpets. Hollywood stars do indeed wear his outfits, as do Thai celebs. The street-fashion sub-culture lurks at Head Quarter, Odyssey, Mathematics and Manchu. Confident young women will enjoy the party-time dresses at Manchu, all feminine prints, while Odyssey offers more sophistication in the details. Super-cool printed tees, punk pants, rock ‘n’ roll leather jackets and cuttingedge rings and necklaces are the lively attraction at Head Quarter and Mathematics. November 9, 2008
Tube Gallery 27 Friday
Head Quarter
Greyhound The Legend
Style incubator
Here’s something not every shopper appreciates about Siam Centre: It’s been the birthplace of so many designers and their “families” — whole communities have grown up around the place. “Siam Centre is like a delivery room for new Thai designers,” says Chanachai Jareeyathana, who was once one of them. After graduating from Silpakorn University two decades ago, he opened his first boutique there with friends, called Time’s End. It was instead, of course, just the beginning. The economic crunch in the late ‘90s floored Chanachai for a bit, but he stormed backed last year with a new brand, 27 Friday, selling semi-couture clothes, and customers pour in from across Asia and the Middle East. Next month he’ll open another boutique, called 27 Nov, offering clever, ready-to-wear street duds. The new line is cheaper, with items starting at Bt1,000, whereas you’re going to pay at
November 9, 2008
least Bt3,000 at 27 Friday. Chanachai praises Siam Centre for getting all the local fashion brands into the same zone, which he says boosts sales and solidarity. Chanita Preechawitayakul of Senada seconds the motion: “Grouping Thai brands together gives you the big picture in Thai fashion,” she says. “Being together, they all automatically compete with each other to see who can come up with the best designs.” “It’s like a community of Thai designers,” adds Jirawat Sriluansoi, the fashion editor at Lips magazine, who’s a partner in Mathematics. At that boutique, Jirawat sells the ready-to-wear brand Like Shadow Dark, Pongsuang “Note” Kunprasop proffers the Disco Fish T-shirt line, and Punsiri Siriwetchatun has made some great cutting-edge jewellery for Missile. They also carry outfits created by other young designers. A delight right from its debut at Elle Fashion Week, Head Quarter
was founded two years ago by Jirat Subpisankul, Chai Jeamamornrat and Patsarun Sriluansoi. Each of them offers a distinctive look, but they benefit from sharing the same space, and certainly the customers love the variety.
New species evolving There’s more on the way next March, when Chadatip will have 10 of the resident designers select clothing and accessories by the next generation to display across 1,000 square metres on the fourth floor. “This will be the showcase zone for students and other young talent,” she says. “It will be one-stop shopping for both local and foreign buyers searching for fresh ideas.” The mall already invests about Bt40 million a year in Bangkok International Fashion Week, held at Siam Paragon. This new show of support ought to be another big boost. When it was tried out a couple of years ago on a small scale, one of the rookie brands on view was Good Mixer. It was as good as its name, and has since taken off like a rocket. | 11 |
Hip Hangout
Divine rice curries – DIY! Toppings, portions, sauces, spiciness – there are so many decisions to make at Coco Ichibanya
dishes with egg toppings just for this branch. There’s a rice omelette with mushroom cream sauce, a rice omelette tomato curry with asparagus and a rice egg with chicken cream sauce. Or you could always have the curry rice gratin for Bt160, curry pilaf for Bt140 or meat sauce curry spaghetti for Bt140. The branch, designed by Japanese firm Nomura, has a spiral shape to it, with a sevenmetre-tall, four-tier chandelier over top. The tables are placed in curved rows like in a theatre. Coco Ichibanya has more than 1,000 branches in Japan, nine in China and four in the US. A n o t h e r 1 0 b ra n c h e s a r e expected to open in Bangkok next year. Hungry yet? Coco Ichibanya Curry House is on the ground floor of the Esplanade on Ratchadapisek Road. Use the Thailand Cultural Centre subway station. It’s open weekdays from 10.30 to 10 and weekends from 10 to 10. Call (02) 660 9283.
November palate pleasers JC Eversole
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Khetsirin Pholdhampalit
Photo/ Kunlaphun Sirimamporn
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he world’s largest chain of curry houses, Japan’s Ichibanya, has just opened its first branch in Thailand, at the Esplanade mall. Expect Coco Ichibanya to quickly become a place of pilgrimage for true fans of Japanese curried rice. A joint venture with Fuji Group of Thailand, the 90-seat eatery offers more than 30 variations – have your rice with mixed vegetables, a pork cutlet, sausages, cheese, seafood or beef, at prices ranging from Bt110 to Bt180. Customising your curry is a great option. There are three kinds of sauce – original, mild or hashed beef – and if you want extra, grab another 100 grams [12]
of sauce for Bt45 or 200 grams for Bt90. A dish comes with 250 grams of rice, but the carbohydrate-conscious can ask for 150 instead and save Bt20 on the bill. On the other hand, people who crave carbohydrates can ask for more: It’s Bt30 for 350 grams and Bt90 for 550. Then you’ve got your toppings, more than 30 to choose from – boiled egg, kimchi, crispy chicken or squid, sausages and others. Now, how hot do you want it? Get mild curry or the spiciest, Level 5. Level 2 or 3 is pretty fiery if you’re used to hot Thai dishes. Pickled, sweet mixed vegetables are good for overcoming any oiliness. The Japanese chefs have created
or epicures, this is a month of varied treats. Supermarkets and restaurants pay homage to the American festival of Thanksgiving by promoting feasts focusing on the turkey, the native of North America that graced the tables of the first colonists. Reviled by some but revered by others, the turkey requires hours of a cook’s attention if it is to arrive at the table moist and succulent. Otherwise it may require sauceboats of gravy to revive its powder-dry and nearly tasteless meat. In either case this is the ideal circumstance to get the wine November 9, 2008
Take me to the Bridge An island of cool beats has pushed up through Patpong’s sea of sleaze
November 9, 2008
Manta Klangboonkrong
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on’t frown when I tell you there’s a cool club tucked away on Patpong. No, I’m not suggesting we all go pole dancing. Opened just a few months ago, the compact Park Bridge has given hip young things the chance to rise above the sleaze and get down to some serious electronic music. The joint is wedged three floors up between two buildings, hence the “Bridge” part of the name, and the high perch makes it feel exclusive and intriguing. You can’t see or hear anything from down below - you have to go inside to get the vibes. Park Bridge is open every night Once there, you’ll see that limited space has from 9 till late. It’s in Patpong Soi 2 (BTS: Sala Daeng). Call inspired clever planning: The bar has been (02) 236 5006 or visit planted in the middle, giving clubbers the www.TheParkBridge.com room to lounge in every corner. There’s not a table in sight, but benches and chairs have been scattered all over the place, encouraging you to join (or be joined) by fellow clubbers. Upstairs, the tiny VIP lounge that opens up to all on busy nights. But however packed it gets, don’t settle down in front of the DJ booth unless you want to get stomped. That spot’s reserved for the dance floor, which bounces to the sound of anything from standard to progressive house, minimal, techno, trance and drum ‘n’ bass. Resident and guest DJs are mostly Thai, with a sprinkling of European expats. No international big names have hit the decks yet, but club-night organisers and DJ collectives arrive with a new sound almost every evening of the week - who needs celebrity spinners? Drinks-wise, there’s a full bar serving reasonably priced drinks. Even more refreshing, there’s no dress code or cover charge. [13]
P h o t o / N u t t a p o n e T i pv a t ee a m o r n a n d t h a n i s s u d t o
flowing. White wine with white meat? Maybe, but turkeys also have dark meat so you can’t go wrong with a red. Enter November’s famed, and also sometimes maligned, beaujolais nouveau. Its fresh berry aromas, lighter body and simple but exuberant finish ought to please everyone at the table. Nouveau is traditionally released with great fanfare on the third Thursday in November just in time for Thanksgiving merriment. Nouveau beaujolais is always the first wine available from the most recent harvest. It’s made from gamay grapes that are fermented whole, rather than crushed, in a process called carbonic maceration. Much of the grape’s natural flavour is retained and its low tannin content makes it drinkable without the need for ageing first. It’s made to be enjoyed young and chilled. Look for Georges Duboeuf, Joseph Drouhin or Mommessin brands at your favourite wine shops.
Laid-back
Playthings of the past
With porcelain dolls and battery-operated robots, a new toy museum in Ayutthaya will delight visitors of all ages Khetsirin Pholdhampalit
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p h o t o / ekk a r a t s u kpe t c h
hether you’re a child or a child at heart, the newly opened Million Toy Museum in Ayutthaya has something for you. The white-painted, two-storey building on U-Thong Road is home to thousands of toys from all above the world and is an ideal place to relive your childhood memories and for children to discover the history behind the vintage toys. On the second floor, you can peer through glass cabinets and admire dolls, tin wind-up toys, action figures and battery-operated robots along with Micky Mouse, Hello Kitty and Doraemon. Downstairs is home to antique artefacts such as old photographs, radios, Buddha images, stamps and glassware. This museum is the brainchild of Krirk Yoonpun, a noted writer and illustrator of children’s books and art instructor at Srinakharinwirot University. He bought the two-rai property 10 years ago and has invested Bt9 million in the museum, which opened last month. “I was inspired by my visit to Japan’s Kitahara Toy Museum 30 years ago. Since then, I’ve collected toys and [14]
memorabilia from around the world. Whenever I travel, I search for toys, though most of my collection comes from Klong Thom market,” says Krirk. He’s particularly proud of his celluloid dolls produced in Germany in the late 1700s, his 100-year-old porcelain dolls from England and his wind-up tin jokers and Godzilla made in Japan in the 1950s. “Japan produces a variety of toys and their creations are the most fun. Toys from France, England and Germany are well designed but the colours are dull.” Next month, Krirk wil be holding art classes and story-telling activities on the weekends and is adding interactive toy corners. “Toys build up happiness, help muscle development and teach children about sharing. I hope this place will be a source of inspiration and imagination for people of all ages,” says Krirk. Million Toy Museum is on U-Thong Road (next to Wat Banomyong), Ayutthaya. It’s open daily except Monday, from 9am to 4pm. Call (035) 328 949 or (081) 890 5782 or visit www.MillionToyMuseum.com.
November 9, 2008
Down by the River Khetsirin Pholdhampalit
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verwhelmed by life in the fast lane? Then take a break in Ayutthaya and savour the slower pace, exploring the city on two wheels or enjoying a leisurely cruise along the Pasak River. When night falls, recharge your batteries with an overnight stay at Bann Kun Pra guesthouse, where you can bathe in the nostalgia of a bygone time without burning your pocket. The two-storey teak house was originally the retirement home of Kun Pra Dhebpreecha, the Chief of Ayutthaya Justice in the reign of King Rama VI and father of noted writer/translator Boonnueng Boonyanet, who is best known by her penname Nuengnoi Sattha. The property was converted into a guesthouse by Boonnueng’s son Decha and taken over by architect Narin Lertasawawiwat four years ago. The Pasak wing has five double rooms at Bt600 a night and a four-bed mixed dormitory for Bt250/bed. Each room is simply furnished with wooden bed, dressing table and red bed linens and cooled by a fan. There’s no TV but plenty to November 9, 2008
take in from the balcony overlooking the river. The front wing, with one twin room and two double rooms starting at Bt300, fronts on to U-Thong Road, tends to be noisy due to the constant traffic flow. Guests in both wings share four large bathrooms. Adjacent to the main house is a small, two-storey unit called Ruen Lek, which offers five double rooms, four with fans at Bt400 and one with air-conditioning at Bt800, all with ensuite bathrooms. Downstairs is a communal reading room. Internet connection is available in the lobby and costs Bt1 per minute. There’s also a corner offering everything from fisherman pants and sarongs to jewellery and books. Guests can rent bikes or motorbikes to explore the city and even book a river tour to take in the temples and the markets. Prices start Bt250. At night, Bann Kun Pra Bann Kun Pra is at 48 Moo 3, transforms into a romantic U-Thong Road. Ayutthaya. Call riverside eatery (035) 241 978 or visit www.BannKunPra.com. specialising in prawn dishes. [15]
p h o t o / ekk a r a t s u kpe t c h
Dream of Ayutthaya’s cultural heritage at this century-old guesthouse
Wellness Emergency back up
If your spine’s not straight, expect big trouble. Go to the Ariya Wellness Centre and expect a little pain
A Princess and her pets The loving nature of Her Royal Highness the late Princess Galyani Vadhana extended to her pet dogs. In memory of her kindness, Tippaya Insurance and DMG Books have produced a 2009 calendar of portraits of the Princess with her many dogs at Le Dix Palace. Available at all bookstores, it costs Bt199, with proceeds going to charities under the late Princess’ patronage.
Lisnaree Vichitsorasatra
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Photo/Nanthasit Nitmatha
lued to a computer? Sit up straight, for heaven’s sake. If you sit there folded up like a question mark, your spinal cord can’t properly do its job – which is helping your brain function efficiently. And if your brain doesn’t get what it wants, it’s going to give your body some even more serious problems. So says physical therapist Wanpen Kumfhoy of the Ariya Wellness Centre, where balance is restored to the muscles supporting the spinal column. Readjusting and stimulating the muscles puts the spine back in shape for maximum benefit to the whole nervous system. This isn’t simple: There are 13 separate processes involved in readjusting those muscles, says Wanpen. It takes about three hours. They start by taking full-body photos so the therapists can assess what’s wrong. Wanpen spots problems with my neck, which she says can cause dizziness because the nervous system is skewed and stopping a proper amount of blood from reaching my brain. I’ve also got a crooked back. Apparently I’m a mess. The next step involves a sauna in which infrared rays help with the detoxification. An ultrasound machine provides deep-muscle relaxation and alleviates any pain, so you’re ready for a particularly vigorous massage. The massage is a species of torture, digging into the back muscles along the spinal column. Wanpen says the more problems you have, the more it will hurt. Apparently my arms, legs and thighs are riddled with problems, because I’m in agony the whole time. Then it’s time for electrical stimulation of the soft muscle tissues of the back. You sense the electric waves radiating through your back as the muscles are given some “exercise”. A process of high-voltage muscle strengthening begins on the stomach, and the vibrations can hurt a little too. Finally, I’m given deep-muscle exercises to do at home, including ways to strengthen my legs and posture to get my back straighter. The whole treatment The Ariya Wellness Centre is on the first floor of the Life – which involves three Centre in the Q House Lumpini visits in a week – costs Building. Contact (02) 677 about Bt5,500. 7166-7 or visit www.Ariya-7.com for more information.
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Become an Olympian Pathumwan Princess Hotel’s Olympic Club is offering a 35-per-cent d i s c o u n t o n a y e a r ’s m e m b e r s h i p f o r tw o , covering a variety of sport activities for you and your b u d d y. C h o o s e f r o m aerobics classes at the gym, dips in the swimming pool, rooftop tennis and squash courts and many more. Call (02) 216 3700 extension 20805 or visit www.TheOlympic-club.com.
Man, life is tough! Guys in the grip of stress can check out Devarana Spa’s promise to ease their tension with a one-hour Swedish massage, followed by a facial to cleanse, exfoliate and restore the skin’s moisture balance. Foot reflexology finishes off the rejuvenating package. The cost is Bt3,900 per person and the treatment is available all through December. Call (02) 200 9999 or visit www.DevaranaSpa.com. November 9, 2008
THE STATESMAN
PHOTO ESSAY
The Festival Of Lights
THE STATESMAN
P H OTOS BY T H E STAT E S M A N, T H E STA R & TH E KAT H M A N D U P OST TEXT BY AS I A N EWS N E T WO R K
D Nar end ra Shr estha /The Kathmandu P ost
iwali, the Hindu festival of lights, was celebrated with pomp throughout India, Nepal and Malaysia. The festival, which is also celebrated by Sikhs and Jains, commemorates the victory of good over evil. Legend has it that on the day of Diwali, Lord Rama—who had returned home after 14 years in exile upon defeating ‘demon king’ Ravana—was welcomed with rows (avail) of lamps (deepa), thus the name Deepavali or Diwali. It is believed that the homecoming of Lord Rama also brought back goodwill and faith to Ayodhya, the land of Rama. The festival is celebrated by lighting up firecrackers, distributing sweets and worshipping Hindu goddess of wealth Laxmi.
Gopal Ch itrakar /Th e Kath mandu P ost
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November 9, 2008
Shaile ndra Khar el/ T h e K at h m an du P ost
THE STAR
Sail endra Kh arel /Th e Kath mandu P ost
THE STAR
Shruti Shrestha / Th e Kathman du P ost
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November 9, 2008
ARTS & CULTURE THE NATIO N (THAILA ND )
Farewell W
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November 9, 2008
With A Smile
In line with ancient beliefs, a royal cremation ceremony is a way to see a late royal off to heaven and is often accompanied by major entertainment programmes BANGKOK
Chularat Saengpassa The Nation (Thailand)
I
n Thai culture, a mourning period is traditionally followed by entertainment. Princess Galyani Vadhana, the sister of Thai King Bhumibol Adulyadej, remains in the hearts of all Thais even after her death on January 2 this year. The mourning for her has lasted much longer than the official 100 days. However, major entertainment programmes will be staged on November 15 and 16 as part of her cremation to show that the mourning is really over by then. In line with ancient beliefs, a royal cremation ceremony is a way to see the late royal off to heaven. “So it’s an appropriate time to celebrate,” Thai Khadi Research Institute director Anucha Thirakanont explains. The tradition for a royal cremation to be accompanied by major entertainment programmes can be traced back to the Sukhothai era. The entertainment serves to mark the end of mourning and also to honour the late royal. When the Rattanakosin period be-
November 9, 2008
gan, King Rama I followed the centuries-old tradition. At the king’s orders, various forms of entertainment such as khon (Thai classical masked drama), puppet shows and Chinese opera accompanied the cremation of his father. Entertainment at royal cremations continued until the reign of King Rama VI who decided to stop the practice because of the high cost.
The ancient tradition was later revived by the current monarch, King Bhumibol Adulyadej. One of his daughters, Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, suggested having entertainment at the cremation of her grandmother, Princess Sri Nagarindra the Princess Mother, in 1996. The suggestion came because the Princess saw how sombre without any entertainment the atmosphere was at
the 1985 cremation of Queen Rambhai Barni, wife of King Rama VII. In response to Princess’ suggestion from, the 1996 cremation of the Princess Mother was accompanied by khon, stage plays, shadow plays and Thai puppet shows. Similar performances will be a part of the cremation of Princess Galyani Vadhana. Bunditpatanasilpa Institute’s fine arts department director-general Kriengkrai Sampatchalit has confirmed that some 2,000 artists from the department and from other private institutes will perform shadow plays, khon, music and Thai puppet shows as part of the Princess’s cremation. From 7pm on November 15, the shows will run until 6am the next day. Because the Princess was a key patroness of Thai arts and culture, many performing groups at the royal cremation will have deep ties with the late Princess herself. The Thai Youth Orchestra, for example, was under her patronage and many of its members have had the opportunity to hone their musical talents thanks to scholarships from the Princess. The Nattayasala Hun Lakorn Lek traditional Thai puppet-theatre troupe, previously known as Joe Louis, was also invigorated by the Princess’s help. | 21 |
ENTERTAINMENT
LOVING THAI, FILIPINO SONGS Artists from Thailand and the Philippines are finding their tunes in Singapore as their fan base gets bigger and album sales skyrocket SINGAPORE
Eddino Abdul Hadi and Cara Van Miriah The Straits Times
S
unday evenings are hardly a popular time slot for clubbing. But pop down to The Arena Live at Clarke Quay in Singapore and you will find the nightspot is often packed to the brim. Up to 1,000 partygoers are there weekly to catch Filipino bands such as Bamboo and Kamikazee. And forget those old-fashioned house bands specialising in covers of Top 40 hits. These musicians are a new generation of popular artists, playing mostly original tunes, who fly here especially to hold concerts. These popular Filipino artists are gigging in Singapore with increasing frequency. Two weekends ago, jazz-lite singer Aiza Seguerra and alternative band Parokya ni Edgar played in two separate shows. Just as contemporary Filipino music is gaining an audience here, Thai artists too are seeing a similar surge in popularity. Club Nana in Central Mall near
| 22 |
Havelock Road held its first Thai music concert featuring rock band Da Endorphine last month, and about 1,000 hipsters turned up for the 1 1/2-hour show. And it is not just the expatriate crowds grooving to the music. At Da Endorphine’s concert, half the audience were Singaporeans, says Club Nana’s operator John Lee. Arena entertainment director Freddy Dodwell estimates that about 5 per cent of the people who turn up for the weekly Sunday concerts at his venue are also locals and their numbers are rising. “These are the elite performers from the Philippines, not the lounge or regular Orchard Tower bands,” he says. The popularity of such acts from the Philippines and Thailand was sparked by the changing demographic of their respective expatriate communities. Dodwell says the demand at The Arena Live is fuelled by the “larger professional Filipino community here
MAKING WAVES: (clockwise) Aiza Seguerra, Lani Misalucha, Chito Miranda of Parokya ni Edgar, Thai band Cash and Da of Da Endorphine.
November 9, 2008
in Singapore—the engineers, computer programmers, nurses and doctors”. Dean Augustin, sales and marketing manager for S2S, the label that distributes Filipino artists Seguerra and Lani Misalucha, agrees that Filipino music is getting bigger here, thanks to the increase in the number of white-collar Filipino workers. Across Singapore, about 10 Thai nightspots have mushroomed in locations such as Ming Arcade, Chijmes and Central Mall, kilometres away from the usual locale of Thai discos in the Golden Mile Complex aka Little Thailand. Such venues helped boost the awareness of contemporary Thai music here. Lee of Club Nana says: “We had Da Endorphine perform here last month as they are one of the most popular groups in Thailand. Their music is well-received by our local patrons.” Club Nana is planning a second show in December featuring the popular five-piece Thai rock band, Clash. The increased demand for contemporary Thai and Filipino music can be seen in the healthy
November 9, 2008
album sales figures. Seguerra’s CD, Open Arms, went gold in Singapore after selling 9,000 copies in a few months. Misalucha has sold 3,000 copies of her new album, Reminisce. In comparison, an international star such as Kylie Minogue sold 10,000 copies of her latest album. A popular home-grown artist such as Taufik Batisah can sell up to 36,000 copies. Colin Yam, merchandising manager of Sembawang Music Centre, says interest in Filipino and Thai music is certainly growing. “We see a decent number of Filipino and Thai artists and compilations doing well in our charts, for example, Aiza Seguerra and Eric Guansing, who is also Filipino. Bird Thongchai and Palmy, both Thai, also do very well when they release new CDs,” he adds. He says their chain of music stores is stocking an estimated 15 to 20 per cent more Filipino and Thai CDs in the last five years and more Singaporeans are picking them up. Thai music fan Doreen Lee says: “It is as good as Western music. I don’t understand the Thai language, but I am drawn to the infectious melodies.” Augustin points out that the albums his company distributes are targeted at the local and Asian markets. He sees potential for a crossover because these artists sing mostly in English. Other record companies are also catching on. Singapore label Ocean Butterflies Music (OBM), which has groomed Singapore singers JJ Lin and A-do to regional fame, has tied up this year with GMM Grammy, the biggest record label in Thailand. It manages over 400 Thai artists. The collaboration will see the two promote Thai and crossover music in
Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore. Filipino and Thai bands are also making their presence on television. A spokesman for Channel (V) says the channel is featuring about 200 per cent more Filipino and Thai bands compared to 10 years ago. These acts appear on their televised programmes and an online platform, AMP, for regional talents to upload and share their music. Channel V has flown in Filipino bands like Rivermaya to perform at their events here and used their music for television trailers. One Filipino singer, Joyce Suraya Alberto, has even decided to base her singing career here. A permanent resident, she has been singing in Singapore for over a decade and recently released her debut album comprising original jazz pop tunes in Tagalog, English and Malay. It is currently only available here and has sold almost 1,000 copies. Almost 60 per cent of the shows that she plays here are for locals, while the rest are for the Filipino expat community. Barbara Gonzales, a 33-year-old account manager and a permanent resident, says these newer acts from the Philippines are of international standards. “Their music is universal. Any person of any culture in any country can relate and appreciate these original Filipino songs.” The artists themselves are understandably chuffed that they are getting more support here. Seguerra, 23, says of her local sales success: “This is my first time doing an international album and I wasn’t expecting that it would turn gold in such a short time. I hope more Filipino artists can penetrate the international market.” These artists have become a gateway for Singapore music fans to discover other acts in the Filipino scene. Take, for example, 19-year-old student Sharifah Nursakinah Syed Isha, a fan of Alberto’s music. She says: “Joyce’s music exposes her fans to an entirely new musical experience. I have never heard Filipino music before and from what I’ve heard from her, it’s really good.”
| 23 |
LIFESTYLE
Vietnamese rock band Ngu Cung.
HA NOI
Helen Clark Inter Press Service
Viet Nam A
Rocks In a country where pop, techno and karaoke have dominated the music scene for years, rock is slowly making inroads
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recent rock concert in Viet Nam’s capital Ha Noi attracted 1,600 fans and unusually, half were Vietnamese. With headlining Australian band Regurgitator—one of the very first international acts for Ha Noi—and the new star power of some of the country’s up-and-coming groups, change was discernible in this communist capital. Ticket prices were a very low 30,000 Vietnamese dong (US$1.80) and the presence of respected home-grown bands such as Ngu Cung and Holy Red Cross were as much, if not more, of a draw card as the Australian band. Ngu Cung won Tiger Beer’s countrywide Rock Your Passion band competition at the beginning of this year, earning the honour of supporting US rockers My Chemical Romance on their one-off concert in Ho Chi Minh City, which traditionally has hosted larger events than its northern sibling. Holy Red Cross were runners up. This, coupled with a number of other large-scale events this year, such as the multi-disciplinary ‘Artport’ held in early August, is seen by some as progress for Ha Noi’s live rock scene, long an underground phenomenon in a country where pop music, techno and karaoke have ruled. “There are a lot of activities in town now. Big companies have money for sponsorship,” Bui Thanh Ha, the commercially-minded manager of Ngu Cung, told IPS. “It’s developed a lot, the quality of bands has improved; they are sponsored by brands. Though a love of rock doesn’t depend on economic factors,” he was quick to add. This is true. Viet Nam’s rapid economic growth has led
November 9, 2008
to rapid social change in some quarters. Youth activities and interests, from elaborately decorated bicycles, to hiphop and even kissing in public are often ascribed to as Westernisation that comes with more money and big brands. But the rock scene in Ha Noi has a history. Though initially banned in 1975 after the communist nation’s reunification, rock music gained a toehold post-doi moi in 1986, when the government opened the centrally planned economy to market forces. Though the economy shifted quickly, day-to-day life remained largely traditional. “After 1975, rock and roll was considered a type of music that encouraged negativity. They thought it made you crazy, insane, a freak, that it would destroy the order of society,” former drummer Vo Anh Tuan told IPS. Now a salaryman, Tuan once played for the legendary rock outfit The Wall, leaving in 1999 after becoming disillusioned with the more commercial tact the band was taking. His drumming idol is Ian Paice of Deep Purple. The burgeoning scene quickly ran into difficulties. Around 1993, there was a clampdown after an event marking the anniversary of John Lennon’s death held at central Hoan Kiem Lake went awry. Combined with a concert where the audience clashed with police—problems were inevitable. “Newspapers wrote bad things about those events. The subject was, ‘Let’s Say No to Rock!’. Everything to do with rock in Ha Noi was given a hard time in public,” said Pham Ngoc Quan, 30, lead singer in a local death metal band. “But nobody forced any of the rock cafés to close.” Ha Noi’s rock scene has largely remained within those cafés, which are often little more than bare rooms with some scattered wooden stools and tattered posters of stillpopular idols like Ozzie Osbourne and Jimi Hendrix (music from the Viet Nam War era remains steadfastly popular
among musicians in Ha Noi). “There’s always been this latent sense that the students are gonna revolutionise everything, but it never happened,” said Giles Cooper, a corporate lawyer who’s lived in Ha Noi for nine years. “Live music hasn’t really developed in a decade. Now maybe it has a bit, because Tiger Beer (sponsors of the concert) is pushing things.” Though the scene may have stayed small and often informal, greater freedom has been granted. According to Tuan, “10 years before you needed a lot of permission for a performance. Now the authorities are more open”. Ha Noi’s musical censorship has extended beyond rock. Trinh Cong Son (1939-2001), a singer and songwriter, often referred to as Viet Nam’s Bob Dylan, spent four years in a re-education camp post 1975. Since death he has been honoured by the authorities and his music lives on in Ha Noi’s quieter music cafés. Though permission from authorities is still important, Regurgitator were, inexplicably, not required to submit their lyrics for prior approval. “I’m really surprised there was no censorship,” said guitarist and vocalist Quan Yeo-
mans. “We’ve heard stories about government shutdowns”. When asked whether the strong corporate backing that keeps the band so busy might create its own form of censorship, Ngu Cung’s manager Ha paused and said, “They invite us (to play) because they love our music. They put their logos up and we do what we want.” Ngu Cung does not play in Ha Noi’s grimy rock clubs; they’re strictly a large event band. This was evident during their wellpolished performance. The smoky, doit-yourself atmosphere of clubs such as Heresy, which are furnished with simple wooden stools and host guitarists who sometime have to play to their own backing tracks, lacking competent band members, are a world away from Ngu Cung’s dramatic rock star act, with wailing, multi-octave vocals, smoke machines and the occasional very long drum solo. The young crowd, all in black pants and shirts with band logos or Che Guevara screen prints, went wild, thrashing and cheering at the foot of the stage. Reguritator received a similarly rapturous response from the crowd, though many had never heard of them. “I think it was really good,” said Trang, 20, after the concert, as she and her friend passed a beer back and forth. “I never heard of Regurgitator before but I enjoyed it. I like Ngu Cung a lot.” “It was really great, amazing, really fun,” said Regurgitator’s bassist and vocalist Ben Ely after coming off stage and being greeted by a new legion of fans eager for photos and autographs. “I think it’s a very good beginning if they keep inviting great bands like Regurgitator from overseas. If that happens we’ll see a big change in Vietnamese bands. Meanwhile there’s a little bit of Vietnamese music,” said a smiling Quan as the young crowd Australian band quickly cleared out to beat Regurgitator, which curfew time. recently performed in Ha Noi.
November 9, 2008
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ARTS & CULTURE
e u g o V n I e u Vag
Bad hair days don’t seem to happen in Tokyo TOKYO
S Indramalar The Star
R
ain or shine, it seems the streams of men and women who fill the bustling streets of the metropolis are always perfectly styled, permed and coloured; and we aren’t even talking about the outrageous and trendy Harajuku area. With more than 16,000 hair and beauty salons strewn across Tokyo (particularly in city districts like Shibuya, Harajuku, Aoyama and Daikanyama), it is as obvious as a bouffant how seriously the Japanese view grooming. A survey conducted by a major hair and beauty product manufacturer last year revealed that the Japanese use more shampoo than any other nationality, washing their hair an average of 6.4 times a week. Another survey showed that close to 70 per cent of Japanese women colour their hair. Japanese celebrities like singer Hamasaki Ayumi, model Ebihara Yuri and even the handsome actor Kimura Takuya determine what’s hot and what’s not when it comes to hairstyles. An article in the International Herald Tribune reported, “If Ayumi changes her hair colour from chocolate blonde to teddy bear brown, you can bet there will be a rush the next day.” In Tokyo, a carelessly tied ponytail, fading highlights or flat hair will certainly set you apart; but not in a good way. Trends are closely followed; new styles continuously conceived. To showcase the 2008-2009 Autumn/Winter trends, a team of hair and make-up experts from the Shiseido Beauty Creation Centre— | 26 |
Masa—took centre stage at the auditorium of the Shiseido Academy of Beauty and Fashion in Itabashi, Tokyo. Attended by more than 200 hairstylists, salon operators and media from Malaysia, Thailand, South Korea and Singapore, the Masa team of seven prominent Japanese stylists unveiled Vague, the hairstyle of the coming season. Lead Masa creator Hirofumi Kera and the six other master stylists (Kazunori Miyasaka, Tadashi Harada, Miki Terunuma, Yoshiko Jinguji, Kenji Toyota and Yuka Ishizuka) demonstrated how to execute the ‘vague’ look on models. It was like a runway fashion show complete with runway stage and mood lighting, except that this was hairstyles. With a mix of Western rock and pop music playing in the background, the stylists fashioned a range of looks, from everyday styles to avant-garde dos in front of the mesmerised audience. Kera explained that the Vague style was essentially wavy and airy, “as if it (the hair) was lifted by a breeze from below”. The look was achieved by perming a medium to long layered
bob. “The word vague refers to the state of being ambiguous or unclear. What we at Masa had in mind was the idea of a mysterious, elusive and alluring woman,” said Kera. Twice a year (for Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter), the Masa team announce the ‘seasonal look’, which they conceive. “These (seasonal looks) draw a lot of industry attention because they represent the cool look for the upcoming season,” shared Kera. She said trends in hairstyles go hand in hand with fashion trends. For Autumn/Winter 2008, Kera noticed that fashion trends have moved from feminine styles to an elegant, cool look. Colours are monotone with a lot of black and greys. “As such, our proposed hairstyles have also shifted from feminine to cool.” A huge influence when forecasting trends, added Kera, was the every day person on the street. “Apart from fashion shows, we also observe women in the street and from our impressions, we make our predictions,” he said. MODEL HAIRSTYLIST: Hirofumi Kera left a possible career in music to become a hairstylist. He has styled hair for major fashion shows in Japan as well as in Milan, Paris and New York.
November 9, 2008
New forum focusing on the diasporas in Commonwealth countries How do diasporas influence the economic development of their new settlement countries and the old home nations? How can we ensure that the many immigrant diasporas are included, engaged and integrated? How do we best realise people’s potential in the diasporas in the Commonwealth?
The 5th Diversity Matters forum is organised by the Australian Multicultural Foundation, in partnership with the Monash Institute for the Study of Global Movements, the Commonwealth Foundation, Monash University Campus Malaysia, The Statesman of India and the Asian Strategy and Leadership Institute
The forthcoming Fifth Diversity Matters forum will be held in Malaysia on 19-20 November 2008. It will examine a rarely-considered topic: the role of diasporas in helping achieve the Commonwealth’s vision and mandates, and the part diasporas can play in shaping and implementing Commonwealth programmes. The two-day intensive conference will examine the size, scale and location of the many diasporas in the Commonwealth and how they are constructed, the faith connections and the education imperatives. This important new conference offers an exciting program of international speakers, allows for the interchange of ideas and experiences, and provides a timely opportunity to influence the Commonwealth’s agenda. For more information on the program, speakers and registration, please visit www.diversitymatters2008.com
Trends SEOUL
Shin Yong-bae The Korea Herald
RACING
FOR THE
SKIES South Korean cities are trying to outdo each other in having the tallest building in the country
W
ithin 10 years, Korea may have more than 10 high-rise buildings with over 100 storeys. The construction of some of the planned skyscrapers is underway in Seoul, Incheon and Busan. In Seoul, there will likely be four or five 100plus-storey skyscrapers, including Dream Tower with 150-155 storeys at a height of 620 metres in Yongsan. If the building is completed as originally planned, it will become the world’s second-tallest structure after Dubai’s Burj Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. Other planned 100-plus-storey high-rise buildings in Seoul include the second Lotte World building with 112 storeys in Jamsil and the International Business Centre (IBC) to be built in Sangam-dong. The IBC building is expected to be a 133-storey structure with a height of 580 metres. The Lotte Group plans to break the ground for
Dream Tower Yongsan 150-155 floors 620 metres
International Business Centre Sangam-dong 133 floors 580 metres
Lotte World 2
Jamsil 112 floors in Jamsil
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November 9, 2008
the construction of the second Lotte World early next year. It said the building, if completed, will become Seoul’s landmark structure. Busan, South Korea’s second-largest city, is likely to have at least four skyscrapers with over 100 storeys. The 107-storey Busan Lotte Tower and the 102-storey Suyong Bay Tower will be constructed in the port city. Busan officials said many buildings with more than 40 storeys are also under construction near Haeundae Beach. If the construction of all high-rise buildings is completed, Busan is expected to have a new skyline like Hong Kong. Incheon is also joining the race to build skyscrapers. In the Songdo free economic zone, a twin building called Incheon Tower will be constructed. The tower will have 150 storeys with a height of 610 metres, becoming the world’s third-highest building. It will house hotels, condominiums and offices. Such construction of high-rise buildings in Korea may attract tourists and develop neighbouring areas. But there are concerns that they may be hazardous in the face of natural or human disasters, such as earthquakes and fire.
Busan Lotte Tower
Busan 107 floors
Suyong Bay Tower Busan 102 floors
For Subscription, call 02-338-3000 #1 email: subscription@nationgroup.com
Incheon Tower
Incheon 150 floors 610 metres
People
h ar dk au r .co.u k
India’s Gangsta Girl The spunky lass, who grew up watching Bollywood movies, is now a part of it SINGAPORE
Eddino Abdul Hadi The Straits Times
S
he is the first-ever female Sikh rapper and her songs are featured in hit Bollywood movies such as Singh Is Kinng. But Britain-based Hard Kaur had to overcome a mountain of objections to get where she is today. “Some of the Asian community was not happy as this has never been done before by an Indian girl, but I wanted to prove that we women were not here just to cook, clean and make babies,” the 29-year-old Indian tells The Straits Times in an e-mail interview. The spunky lass, whose real name is Taran Kaur Dhillon, was born in Uttar Pradesh, India. She relocated to England with her mother after her father was killed in the riots triggered by the assassination of former prime minister Indira Ghandi in 1984. “I hardly knew how to speak any English and was bullied at school,” she recalls of her early days in Birmingham. But her poor grasp of the language did not stop her from falling in love with hip-hop culture and the works of her favourite rap stars such as Nas, Guru and KRS1. “The rappers were saying what they wanted to, wearing what they wanted to, and I thought it was great. It was a form of street art and it gave rappers a voice to tell stories of people’s struggles. I wanted to challenge myself to see if I could do the same,” she says. | 30 |
Besides female empowerment and partying, she also tackles social issues such as women’s rights and domestic violence in English, Punjabi and Hindi songs. She built her reputation by performing at open-mic events and challenging other rappers in ad-libbed freestyle ‘battles’. In 1995, she started releasing her own singles, which were warmly received by the Asian music fraternity in England. Last year, she released her debut album, Supawoman, which a BBC reviewer described as “an energetic offering from a gifted singer/songwriter”. Not long after that, she played at major festivals like Glastonbury and opened shows for pop stars such as Justin Timberlake and superstar producer Pharrell of The Neptunes. Bollywood came a-calling last year and the producers of the movie Johnny Gaddaar used her songs in the soundtrack. Other movies such as Kismat Konnection, Ugly Aur Pagli and Bachna Ae Haseeno also featured her songs, boosting her popularity among Indians around the world. “I grew up watching the Bollywood films and admiring the stars. And now being a part of it and being respected is the biggest buzz. Especially for my mum, now that she sees me hanging out with the stars themselves,” she says. November 9, 2008
Explore
The Heart Of Alishan F CHIAYI
Enric Donate Sánchez The China Post
Green mountains and tea farms make up the beautiful landscape of one of Taiwan’s famous tourist destinations
| 32 |
rom the tropical coast to snow-covered peaks in one hour? A motorbike ride along the Provincial Highway 18 (PH18) from Chiayi City to Alishan Forest Recreation Area shows the beauty of changing landscapes from sea breeze to chilly wind. In Chiayi train station it is easy to hire a bike. Some shops are flexible about accepting foreign driver’s licenses for 50cc scooters, but a Taiwanese or international driver’s license is a must for the biggest bikes up to 125cc. The prices are around NT$400 (US$12) a day, insurance included. The city of Chiayi is placed over the Tropic of Cancer. Alishan National Scenic Area starts at the exit of the town by the PH18. The road, a bit curvy, is kept in good shape, with amazing views of the valley, although it might be a bit crowded on weekends. Patience must be our leitmotif as we enjoy the ascent from the packed city to find rice fields and betelnut plantations mixed with subtropical forest. Slim palm trees line the mountainside until we reach the tea plantations. There, hundreds of women harvest the leaves that make Alishan a famous location for the finest tea. The scent of natural drying oolong tea leaves fills the warm air when we pass in front of the scattered farms. Old women move between the bushes picking November 9, 2008
leaves while they sing traditional songs and get together at the end of a hard working day for a snack in a simple food stall beside the road. Just past the tea plantations, we find bamboo forests blowing in the wind, inviting us to get lost in images of Ang Lee’s movies. At this level we find Fencihu, a tiny village turned into a strategic stop for the Alishan train 1,400 metres above sea level. The little station was used for maintenance, which attracted many people from the valley to relocate to this site. The actual 800 inhabitants, mostly Hakka and Han, moved here to work in the train station. On weekdays, this is a very relaxed village organised around Old Street, a 7-Eleven and some restaurants and souvenir shops. But on weekends, it might be sizzling with activity and visitors. The local farmers bring famous mountain vegetables such as bamboo shoots and mountain cabbage to the road borders, and the small alleys are crowded with a street market where we can find anything from coffeeflavoured mantou to barbecued pork or fine tea leaves from the surrounding producers. Most visitors choose to eat mountain vegetable hot pot in restaurants, but the convenience store also sells all kinds of meals. Fencihu is famous for ‘train station cakes’, now sold in several shops in addition to
the train station. After dinner, Fencihu is ready to unveil its secret. Following the railway into the darkness, after approximately 500 metres, we start seeing little sparks here and there. Every night some adventurous visitors dive into the deep blackness of Alishan forests in search of the gathering of hundreds of fireflies. The flickering lights from the small insects create a unique atmosphere. Fencihu’s fireflies are the most accessible in Alishan lands, and they make the already magnificent mountain range appear even more magical. The main attraction of Fencihu, though, is its hiking paths. Early risers can hike up to Datongshan (1,976 metres) to see one of the most beautiful sunrises of Alishan. Some hotels will arrange a jeep ride to the starting point of the track, and from there, it’s an hour hike to the top. From the village, the hike is about four hours. Those wanting to enjoy nature in a less crowded scenario can take some interesting hikes around the Tiger Spot Cliffs and the Bat Shrine. The Taiwanese
government is trying to improve the path signs and replace the steepest parts with wooden steps to make the walk more comfortable. Another choice is visiting the flat valley of Laiji village. This aboriginal Zhou town is not far from Fencihu and the lonely road cuts through beautiful bamboo forests. Most of the aboriginals work for tourism in handicrafts and other services. Guided hikes with an overnight stay in the forests can be hired here. Traditional handicrafts and wood carvings are sold in the shops and if we are lucky, we can join a mess with the local community. Over Highway 169 we find the village of Taihe where the plum trees blossom with incredible
beauty. On the way back, we could take the Road 162 and stop in Ruili and Ruifeng, two agricultural spots surrounded by thick forests. The flavours and smells of Alishan will surround us when we haven’t yet reached the peak. If we have more time we should go on with our journey up. But if the weekend comes to an end, we can take the Road 159 back to Chiayi, not as comfortable as the PH18, but more charming, with the last tiny villages hanging from the slopes and the last tea plantations and their scent of drying tea leaves floating on the lazy evening breeze, before we reach the restaurant-packed entrance of Chiayi City. November 9, 2008
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DATE BOOK THA NIS SUDTO/THE NATIO N (THAILA ND )
BA N G KO K
Loy Krathong
L
oy Krathong is Thailand’s biggest annual event held on the night of the full moon in November to worship the goddess of water. Krathong is a buoyant bowl traditionally made of banana trunk and decorated with beautiful flowers, a candle and three sticks of incense. Each person has one krathong and floats it into the river at night. The floating of a krathong is intended to float away ill fortunes as well as to express apologies to Khongkha or Ganga, the river goddess. Some believe the ritual is meant to worship Buddha’s footprint on the bank of the Narmada River, while others say it is to pay respect to Phra Uppakhut, one of Lord Buddha’s great disciples. The event is generally accompanied with flying lanterns and fireworks. When: Nov 12
TAKACHIHO-GAWARA FURU MIYAATO
Fire God Festival
T
he festival commemorates the descent of the fire god, Niniginomikoto, son of Amaterasu (the sun and head god in Shinto belief). During the festival, Shinto priests in white robes start praying at sundown. With taiko drums playing in the background, the priests set fire to ‘Holy Firewood’ in order to help the gods find their way back to earth. The festival is celebrated at around the time when the gods landed on earth, and at a place believed to be around where they landed—the Kirishima Jinja Shrine in Kagoshima Prefecture. When: Nov 11 Where: Kirishima Jinja Shrine, Kagoshima Prefecture
HA NOI
Viet Nam Fashion Fair
T
he fair, organised by the Viet Nam National Textile & Garment Group, Vinatex, aims to spotlight the latest trends in the country’s fashion sector. This year’s VFF is expected to attract hundreds of Vietnamese and international textile and garment manufacturers, accessory suppliers, leather and footwear companies as
PHNOM PENH
Bon Om Touk
B 1862 painting of the Fire God Niniginomikoto
well as the fashion designers. The fair includes the Spring/Summer Fashion Week where several famous designers from different textile and garment companies will introduce their latest collection for the Spring/Summer 2009 Season. When: Nov 19-24 Where: Friendship Cultural Palace Info: www.vinatex.com.vn www.vietfair.com.vn
on Om Touk (Water Festival) is the most extravagant and exuberant festival in Cambodia, outdoing even the new year celebrations. It is celebrated every year in November to honour the victory of the Cambodian naval forces in the 12th century and as thanksgiving to the Mekong River for providing the country with fertile land and abundant fish. Up to a million people from all over the country flock to the banks of the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers in Phnom Penh to watch traditional boats where up to 60 people will be in each boat racing. Over 150 sleek, brightly painted boats will race in pairs while being presided over by Royalty and various dignitaries. When: Nov 11-13 Where: Tonle Sap River