THE NATION ASIANEWS January 18-24, 2009
TRAVEL, FOOD & DRINK, STYLE, ARTS AND TRENDS IN ASIA
Hot!
WAT PHO BY NIGHT
BRIDGE TO THE BARD
DELICIOUS AURA
TRAVEL, FOOD & DRINK, STYLE, ARTS AND TRENDS IN ASIA THE NATION ASIANEWS
January 18-24, 2009
COVER
BANGKOK BY CYCLES
OLD GETS NEW
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SCRUMPTIOUS SAVOEY
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p9-11
ROYAL VILLAS AWAIT
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C o v er : K o rbp h u k P h r o mrek h a
Around Asia BOLLYWOOD BARBS
TIME FOR HOI AN
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P20
team
Editor: Phatarawadee Phataranawik | Deputy Editor: Khetsirin Pholdhampalit | Photo Editor: Kriangsak Tangjerdjarad | Photographers: Ekkarat Sukpetch and Korbphuk Phromrekha | Writers: Pattarawadee Saengmanee and Manta Klangboonkrong | Contributor: Pawit Mahasarinand and JC Eversol | Designers: Nibhon Appakarn, Pradit Phulsarikij and Ekkapob Preechasilp | Copy-editors: Luci Standley and Rod Borrowman | Sub-editor: Paul Dorsey | Contact: www.nationmultimedia.com, e-mail: ace@nationgroup.com, (02) 338 3461-2. ACE is published by NMG News Co Ltd at 1854 Bangna-Trat Road, Bangkok
What’s Hot
It’s Super-President!
“
Hope”, artist Shepard Fairey’s collage of Barack Obama, has just joined the collection of the National Portrait Gallery in Washington, and now the presidentelect is featured in a Spider-Man comic book for the second time. Issue 583 in “The Amazing Spider-Man” series went on sale on Wednesday. The story is set in Washington on inauguration day and involves one of Spider-Man’s oldest foes trying to prevent Obama from taking the oath of office.
Win Bacardi B-Live tickets
Abba musical on the way
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e’ve got the musical “Chicago” coming in mid-February, and BEC Tero Entertainment is following that up with another Broadway smash, “Mama Mia”, in August. A production team led by leading actress will jet into Bangkok in early March to do some advance work at the Muang Thai Rachadalai Theatre at the Esplanade.
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acardi and Club Culture are following up on the success of last year’s dance-music festival Bacardi B-Live Culture One on January 31. The line-up includes Seb Fontaine, Matt Darey, Slacker, Dub Pistol and Graham Gold, plus Sister Bliss from Faithless. The fun starts at 3pm at Lakeside at the Bitec complex in Bang Na. Click www.CultureOneBkk.com. ACE is giving away two pairs of VIP tickets courtesy of Club Culture. Just tell us: The name of Sister Bliss’ latest solo album Send your answer with “Bacardi BLive” in the subject line to ace@nationgroup.com by Wednesday. Don’t forget your with telephone and address. The winners will be announced in our next issue.
Januar y 18-24, 2009
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The starry ‘winter’ ahead Singapore gets in on this year’s ‘most important theatrical event in the world’ - Shakespeare by the Bridge Project Pawit Mahasarinand
B
ritish or American actors who’s better onstage? Hold that debate, because six celebrated actors - three from each side of the Atlantic have joined forces in the Bridge Project, a series of co-productions from New York’s Brooklyn Academy of Music, London’s Old Vic and Neal Street Productions. Each year a single British-American company presents a double-bill of classic works in Brooklyn and London and takes them on tour. “The Bridge Project represents many of the things that are most exciting to me about theatre,” says Kevin Spacey, the artistic director at the Old Vic, “not least the bringing together of extraordinary talent to offer audiences new readings of classic work. “It also celebrates theatre as an international language and as a bridge between nations.” This year’s bill of fare is a new adaptation of Chekhov’s “The Cherry Orchard”, performed by Sir Tom Stoppard, and Shakespeare’s “The Winter’s Tale”. At the helm is Oscar-winning film director Sam Mendes, a Briton |6|
who now calls New York City home and whose stage works, such as “Cabaret” and “The Blue Room”, have been highly acclaimed. He describes this double bill as “two plays about reminiscence, loss and regret. Two plays about time and how it can heal or destroy us. Two plays that begin and end in the nursery. Two plays that continue to confound and amaze in their bottomless complexity and mystery. And two plays that were written at the end of the careers of the two greatest dramatists who ever lived. “I’m particularly looking forward to reuniting with my friend and collaborator Simon Russell Beale for what will be our seventh Shakespeare production together,” Mendes says. The cast includes Tony Award-winner Richard Easton and veteran Shakespearean actress Sinead Cusack. Young viewers will be thrilled to see Ethan Hawke, in addition to Rebecca Hall of “Vicky Cristina Barcelona” and “Frost/Nixon” and Emmy-winner Josh Hamilton. “The project treats accent as many theatres now treat race,” says the New York Times, “as an opportunity to rethink great roles. In ‘The Winter’s Tale’ the actors’ backgrounds are exploited
for effect: Europeans play the urbane Sicilians, North Americans the rustic Bohemians.” After the New York shows in March, and before stops in New Zealand, Spain, Germany, Britain and Greece, the project will visit Singapore. The co-producers are the Singapore Repertory Theatre and the Esplanade, whose success in co-hosting the Royal Shakespeare Company’s “King Lear” with Ian McKellen in 2007 led to this new international partnership. Due to the tour schedule, though, only “The Winter’s Tale” will be staged. “It’s a major coup for Singapore to be the only Asian destination for this oncein-a-lifetime opportunity,” says the Repertory’s artistic director, Gaurav Kripalani. “This will be the most important theatrical event anywhere in the world in 2009.”
“The Winter’s Tale” will be at the Esplanade Theatre from March 26 to 31. But tickets for between S$40 and $325 (Bt980 and Bt8,000) at www.Sistic.com.sg. For more details see www.SRT.com.sg. January 18-24, 2009
Madrid’s museum masterpieces go under Google’s microscope
A P P h o t o / D aniel Oc h o a de Olza
The Prado in your home A detail of ‘Las Meninas’ on Google Earth.
(EPA)
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January 18-24, 2009
AFP
the same image quality as that provided by Google Earth, a virtual map programme that uses satellite information and photography. The Google Earth images have a resolution of 14,000 megapixels, about 1,400 times greater than a picture taken on a standard 10-megapixel camera. They where stitched together from thousands of high-resolution photographs of the paintings. To view the masterpieces people must first install Google Earth, which can be downloaded for free from the Google website, although more advanced versions must be bought. They will then be able to scan the surface of the canvases as if using a Onscreen at the Prado, an extreme close-up of one of the paintings. magnifying glass, capturing brush strokes as well as Olivier Thibault are Francisco de other details Goya’s “El Tres which would be asterpieces from Spain’s de Mayo”, Hieroimpossible to see Prado museum went on nymus Bosch’s if they visited the display in microscopic t r i p t y c h “ T h e gallery in person. detail on Google Earth Garden of Earth“A digital reon Tuesday, in what was ly Delights” and production canhailed as a first for a ma- p a i n t i n g s b y not substitute an jor international museum. Rubens, Titian, original work, “This technological advance will pro- Rembrandt and but it allows one vide access to the works to anyone from El Greco. to look at details anywhere in the world,” says Prado di“ T h i s i s t h e A screen shot of “The Third of May 1808” by that one could rector Miguel Zugaza. first time in the Francisco Goya, one of the 14 paintings available never see with in high resolution on the Google Earth website. Among the 14 canvases available for world that this the naked eye,” inspection online is Diego Velazquez’s is being done,” says Zugaza. “Las Meninas” depicting the Infanta says the head of The Prado disMargarita and her courtiers, regarded the Spanish branch of US Internet plays some 1,400 paintings, mostly by as his greatest work and one of the best- giant Google, Javier Rodriguez Za- Spanish masters. It is one of Madrid’s known paintings at the two-centuries- patero. top tourist draws, attracting more than old Prado. Other major museums like the Lou- two million visitors last year. Other works which art lovers can ex- vre in Paris allow Internet users to amine in detail from their computers zoom in on their works, but not with Agence France-Presse |7|
Go SHOPPING
Updated classic Dad’s got antiques. At the Living Art, daughter’s got antiques – and modern stuff too
A hand-made beaded lamp from India for Bt8,800.
Lacquer-coated Vietnamese bamboo bowls for Bt980 and trays for Bt850 to Bt950.
photo / e k k arat su k petch
A Bt44,000 coffee table from Indonesia made from coconut shells.
From Italy, a leather armchair and stool on a wooden frame, priced at Bt40,800.
K he t sirin Pholdhampalit
S
unisa Attakanwong has added her own spin to her father Pornthep’s business. He’s sold oriental antiques out of his Lek Gallery on Charoenkrung Road for 30 years, and now 28year-old Sunisa has opened the Living Art on Bangna-Trat Road with antiques, art objects – and modern furniture. The furniture at the loft-style, two-storey showroom comes from Italy and the US, an inspiring contrast to her hand-made lamps from India, tables and chairs made from polished coconut shells from Indonesia and Vietnamese lacquer and bamboo ware. “In the past three years people other than the older crowd have become interested in antiques,” says Sunisa, a Silpakorn University decorative-arts grad. “A lot of young people are now mixing antiques
Chinese wooden tray, yours for Bt6,800.
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and modern furniture.” Most of the gear she sells is in black and white or beige and cream, with little in the way of funky looks. The sofas come primarily from Italy and are stuffed with 70per-cent goose down. “We’ve only been open for six th months, and we’re adapting all the A classic 19 century tiffin time to suit Thai tastes,” Sunisa carrier from says. “The sofa sets might be okay China for for large European homes, but Bt10,000. they tend to be too big for compact Thai spaces. Thais prefer daybeds to armOld, new, east, west chairs. The Living Art is on Soi Yu Thong Dee off “The lamps for the Bangna-Trat Road ceilings and walls are Km 9 near the Outer more popular than the Ring Road. It’s open floor lamps as well. weekdays from 11 to “And we plan to add a 8 and weekends from bit more colourful furni10.30 to 7.30. Call ture for the coming sea(02) 739 9570 or son to cater to women’s (02) 739 9572. tastes.”
This antique wooden stool from China is priced at Bt24,000. Januar y 18-24, 2009
Cover
The twowheel tour Bangkok’s history moves in cycles and, as it turns out, bicycles are one of the best ways to explore it Pattarawadee Saengmanee Wat Benchamabophit Dusitwanaram
January 18-24, 2009
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angkok, for all its gleaming malls and slick hotels, is still a place to luxuriate in history and heritage, and if you don’t believe that, said National Geographic, get on your bike and go see. The magazine’s challenge was dutifully accepted by a hundred hardy cyclists recently – they got out and explored history-steeped Rattanakosin Island.
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COVER
The Church of Immaculate Coneption
Wat Benchamabophit
The Thai Press Museum
If there was any scepticism about Bangkok’s surviving merits, it filtered away with every shift of gears. After an early-morning start at the King Chulalongkorn equestrian statue, Thanat Bhumarush of the city’s Tourist Division led the way, first to Wat Benchamabophit Dusitwanaram Ratchaworavihan. “The Temple of King Rama V”, better known as the Marble Temple, set the tour’s tone of architectural splendour with its ubosot designed in the European neo-classical style and Italian marble.
The Thai Press Museum
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Inside are the revered golden statue Phra Buddha Chinarat and beautiful murals that show the different kinds of stupas. Along a lengthy marble corridor are more than 50 Buddha images in the Sukhothai style. King Chulalongkorn was ordained in the wooden Song Phranuant Hall in 1873. You can see the bed in which he slept as a monk, and paintings of scenes from his life and Thai traditions. The next stop was Dusit Palace, where the cyclists admired the graceful Vimanmek Mansion, built on Koh Si Chang in 1868 as King Chulalongkorn’s
summer residence and moved to Bangkok in 1901. In the capital, the three-storey golden-teakwood mansion was refurbished in the Victorian-style by His Royal Highness Prince Narisranuvattivongse, the King’s half-brother. There are 72 rooms, although only 31 are open to the public as a museum. The walls in shades of blue, green, peach, ivory and pink enclose displays of rare collection of artefacts, art, handicrafts and royal portraits. The Hong Si Fah – the blue room – has 72 turtle-shaped black sapphires on view, created for His Majesty King Bhumibol’s 72nd birthday. In another room are lovely ceramic ware from Russia and the Netherlands and Shanghai-style silverware used to test food for poison.
Wat Benchamabophit January 18-24, 2009
In the Hong Si Nga Chang – the ivory room – are carved ivory pieces, elephant’s feet, crocodile skulls, antlers and buffalo horns and, in a weapons chamber, swords made over the decades of the early 20th century. Also on the ground floor is 200-year-old Japanes sasuma ceramic ware, Royal Copenhagen pieces from Denmark, tableware from Italy and a seven-hued tea set from England. In the toy room are miniature ceramics and silver and kitchenware, and next door is a shrine room, with Buddha images from the Sukhothai, U-Thong and Ayutthaya eras.
The Hong Si Khiew – the green room – has an old piano of mahogany with ivory keys. A third-floor octagonal hall above is where Rama V and his wives lived. The King’s living room contains an old pianoshaped desk and a bookshelf. The bathroom – the most modern in Siam at the time – had no water pumped in, but there’s a copper shower and a separate bathtub. An audience hall on another floor is filled with glittering glassware from Germany, Poland and Czechoslovakia. The bike parade pedalled next to the Thai Press Museum in the Press Association of Thailand Building on Rajsrima Road. Here’s where you find out how you ended up reading ACE, but in the course of the long history that brought us here there are the stories of many well-known journalists. You can also see a French newspaper that carried reports of Rama V’s travels in Europe and Siam’s first postage stamp, termed “Court”, which was issued as King Chulalongkorn began his reign. At the 17 th-century Church of the Immaculate Conception on Soi Mitrakham in Samsen district – the country’s oldest Catholic church – is a gorgeous
stained-glass mural. It depicts the lives of Jesus and other holy men. Also on view is a wooden sculpture of Cambodia’s revered Mother of Health. The terrific outing ended at Wat Rajathiwaswihan, which was built in 1276, in the early Ayutthaya period. Inside the ubosot are a sacred golden Buddha image called Phra Niruntrarai and a mural by Italian artist Rigolee, relating the tale of the 10th bodhisattva. The culmination of stirring Thai architecture may well be in the temple’s teakwood preaching hall. Inspired by Wat Yai Suwannaram in Petchburi, the hall is home to one of the country’s finest golden Buddha images, resting on Benja-style altars alongside candles placed there by King Rama V.
Make your own way Marble Temple is on Sri TfromheAyutthaya Road and open daily 8.30 to 5.30; (02) 281 2501; www.WatBencha.com. Vimanmek Mansion is at Dusit Palace and open daily 9.30 to 3; (02) 628 6300, extension 5120 or 5121; visit www. Vimanmek.com. The Thai Press Museum is at 299 Ratsrima Road in Dusit district; no admission charge; (02) 669 7124-6; www.ThaiPressAsso.com. The Church of the Immaculate Conception is on Soi Mitrakham in Samsen district; open 8 to 5 daily; (02) 243 0064. Wat Rajathiwaswihan is at 3 Samsen Road 9 in Dusit; open 9 to 4 daily; (02) 241 4679 or (02) 668 7988; visit www.WatRaja.org.
P h o t o s / K o rbp h u k P h r o mrek h a
Vimanmek Mansion January 18-24, 2009
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Hip Hangout
Cabernet with curry? Why not?
T
Get a whole
New Aura The latest rooftop restaurant offers customers a bird’s-eye view of bustling Soi Nana Manta K langboonkrong
p h o t o / e k k arat s u k p e t c h
S
oi Nana is rarely a first choice for anyone thinking of eating, drinking and chilling out, but now, thanks to the new Aura Rooftop Bar & Restaurant, there is somewhere to enjoy a peaceful meal in this usually chaotic lane. Located on the third floor, Aura’s rooftop space is a chill-out bar and a restaurant rolled into one. Airy and spacious, the decor is simple, and while the view isn’t stunning, you are away from the craziness down below. The roof is retractable too, so don’t worry if the sun is too strong or it’s pouring – you can still enjoy the open air. If you’re here to drink and munch on some snacks, find yourself a seat the long bar. If you’re here for a full dinner, then opt for a table. Aura has an extensive list of cocktails, mocktails, | 12 |
wine and beer at affordable prices and the menu features a delectable range of tapas, pasta, salads and Western main courses plus desserts, along with Thai favourites, at prices that vary from Bt180 to Bt900. If you don’t like to dine in the open, air-conditioned seating is available indoors. Smoking is allowed in the open space. Starting off with soft, low-key house music, the beat revs up to funky house and more upbeat tunes later on. A DJ spins the grooves every day except Monday. Wi-fi access is provided, so feel free to get connected. Aura Rooftop Bar & Restaurant is open daily from 5pm till 3am. It’s on Sukhumvit Soi 4 near BTS Nana. Call (02) 656 4842 or visit www.AuraRestaurantBangkok.com. Parking is available.
wo topics regularly vex and intimidate average consumers as they try to select a wine for their enjoyment. One is the ever-expanding and increasingly arcane vocabulary employed by writers and critics to describe wine, a topic we’ll leave for another column. The other is the myriad of options and so-called rules relating to matching wines with food, a process not as perplexing as some would make it. Here’s some additional fodder to consider when making your wine choices. Tannins are compounds in red wines that give them structure and longevity. They’re also astringent – meaning mouth puckering – similar to strong black tea, and tend to accentuate the spicy peppers used in many Thai dishes. Look for either mature reds or those with lower tannins, like Beaujolais, pinot noir or New World merlot, as companions to spicy Asian dishes. Better yet, break your red-wine habit and try some of the exceptional rosé now gaining popularity on the market, or the increasingly well-made chenin blancs from our Thai wineries. Acids are essential to giving any wine balance and are more prevalent in many whites. Sauvignon blanc, with its crisp herbaceous character, is a natural with many Asian dishes. Whether from Loire Valley, the slopes of the Andes or the vineyards of the Cape region in South Africa, sauvignon marries well with Isaan larb and tom yum and most Thai-style seafood. Sweeter wines including Germany’s wonderful rieslings and Bordeaux’s unctuously rich sauternes can work well with main-course dishes like foie gras or a succulent goose, but desserts provide their primary stage. Make sure your wine is as sweet or sweeter than the dish being served, or it will taste flabby. As beauty is said to be in the eye of the beholder, the choice of a wine to complement a particular food is also a highly personal deduction. Sommeliers have a place in pointing a person in the right direction, but if you prefer a bigbodied shiraz with your kaeng nua, damn the conventional wisdom and enjoy yourself. Januar y 18-24, 2009
at
Savoury
Savoey A favourite Bangkok restaurant spreads it wings with a new branch in Bang Phli
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e r g r a n d f a t h e r S av o e y Thampirak opened the first branch in Rajdamri 30 years ago and named it Savoey after himself. Today, the well-known restaurant has outlets all over Bangkok and continues to please palates with its tempting menu of Thai, Chinese and seafood dishes. Now, it’s 25-year-old Ployprom who’s carrying on the tradition and she’s busy adding her own flavours while still maintaining the traditional charms of granddad’s business. Savoey’s latest branch is on the outskirts of Bangkok – at Bang Phli – and Ployprom has added modern twists that are guaranteed to appeal to both families and the young generation. The two-storey glass conservatory with about 200 seats is simple and clean and dominated by white upholstered chairs and oak and teak tables. Those popping in for a quick lunch will love the one-dish Thai,
Januar y 18-24, 2009
Chinese and Western menu with prices from Bt45 to Bt120. “Our location is surrounded by tutoring schools so we’ve added dishes like spaghetti, steak and salad to cater to the young set,” says Ployprom, a Bangkok University communication arts grad. “Their parents can still enjoy our signature dishes like rice topped with chicken brown gravy (Bt45) and spring roll stuffed with crab meat, vegetables and ketchup (Bt65).” The restaurant’s most famous dishes – khao mun som tam (papaya salad with steamed rice ,coconut milk and fried shredded pork) and ped guitar (roasted seasoned duck with delicious crispy skin) are also available here. Other signature dishes include steamed sea perch with soy sauce served with fried rice noodles for Bt320 and the lighter fruit salad with deep-fried shrimps in a taro basket for Bt170. A wide range of dim sum is also served and partygoers can have fun in one of the three karaoke rooms.
Savoey Bang Phli is at B Boulevard shopping mall behind Chularat Hospital on Kingkaew Road, Samut Prakan. It’s open daily from 11 to 10. Call (02) 325 0342-3. The Karaoke room rental is free for those spending more than Bt2,000.
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p h o t o / e k k arat s u k p e t c h
K he t sirin Pholdhampalit
Laid-back
The temple
Venerable Wat Pho proves even more enticing on the Phatarawadee Phataranawik
A
s familiar as you might already be with Wat Pho and all the glories that earned it World Heritage Site status, a night visit opens up whole
new vistas. The famed home of the Reclining Buddha and popular massages is hosting a small-scale light-and-sound festival every evening that beautifully illustrates its “9 Wonders”. A guide who speaks English will give you a two-hour tour, explaining Wat Pho’s origins during the Ayutthaya period. After establishing Bangkok as the capital of Rattanakosin era, King Rama I - who reigned from 1782 to 1809 renovated the 50-rai site and sanctified it as the city’s primary temple. The nighttime shows use lights to dramatically re-create the fantastic architecture of old - stupas, the main chapel and hundreds of Buddha statues. The tour starts at Viharn Phranorn to see the Reclining Buddha, also known as Phra Buddhasaiyas, which | 14 |
dates to the reign of Rama III. This is considered the Kingdom’s largest and most beautiful work of religious fine art, and no other image of the Buddha depicted entering nirvana comes close.
Satellite Pavilions, where there are murals explaining traditional massage in elaborate inscriptions, along with early Siamese proverbs and literary passages and depicting the Royal Kathin Procession.
Sala Kara Parien
The mother-of-pearl inlay on the soles of the Buddha’s feet is a compelling site in itself. Decorated in the ThaiChinese style, the soles feature the faith’s 108 auspicious signs in natural scenes of both Chinese and Indian influence. A few minutes’ walk away are the
Hermit Mount
Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajakarn comprises four beautiful pagodas built in succession by the first four rulers of the Chakri dynasty. There are Thai-Chinese gates decorated with glazed tiles and Chinese rockery guardians, plus the Phra Maha Chedi Song Phra Sri Suriyothai. JJaannuuaar ryy 1 181--2147,, 2 0 0 9
The Reclining Buddha
after dark
illuminated evening tours continuing through March K he t sirin Pholdhampalit
you come to Sala Kara Parien, celebrated as part of the Tourism Authority’s “Unseen Thailand” campaign. Built during the Ayutthaya era as a
Phra Buddha Deva Patimakorn Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajakarn
The folk tale is projected, with portrayals of the seven Nang Songkran, one for each day of the week. Outside Phra Monbod are the celebrated Wat Pho giants, and then Januar y 18-24, 2009
primary chapel, the building became a study hall for monks and remains so. Here Rama I once gazed out toward the Chao Phya River, a view that no photographer should miss. The same
goes for the reverse view from the monarch’s throne, where you can create an illusion of the Buddha statue at the back enthroned. By day this hall is closed to the public, so this is an excellent chance to peek inside. The masterpiece in the main chapel is the beautiful golden Phra Buddha Deva Patimakorn, in the pose of the seated Buddha, raised on a three-tiered pedestal called the Phra Pang Smardhi. The huge statue glows in the light. The atmosphere is tranquil. There are lovely murals all around. The contoured Hermit Mount is the last stop. Erected by Rama I, this was the centre of medical science and knowledge brought from razed Ayutthaya. Twenty-five hermits strike 24 yogic poses, showing the way to health and balance. Wonder walks If the tour wears out your feet, it’s a good thing Wat Pho is world-renowned for its massage, now available at night too! “The 9 Wonders of Wat Pho” continues until April 6, with six tours each evening between 6 and 9pm. The tours are limited to 50 visitors. Those conducted in English start at 7 and 8.30. The cost is Bt50 for Thais and Bt200 for foreigners. Buy a ticket at the gate, but advance booking is recommended. Call (02) 226 0335 or (02) 226 0369 or visit www.WatPho.com.
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P h o t o / Krian g sa k T an g j e rdjarad and K o rb p h u k P h r o mr e k h a
The Legend of Songkran is a highlight of the tour. Rama III had the story of Nang Songkran recorded on the inner walls of the porticos.
Laid-back
Down by the river
Escape the hustle and bustle of the city with a stay in Bangkok’s most elegant private apartments Phatarawadee Phataranawik
P hoto / Kriangsa k T angjerdjarad
O
ne of Bangkok’s best-kept secrets, the tranquil Chakrabongse Villas have the soothing effect of taking the weary traveller back in time to the slower and more elegant days of the early Rattanakosin era. Hidden behind Chakrabongse Palace on the banks of the Chao Phya River and surrounded by lush gardens, the private villas that make up this boutique hotel were formerly used to house the guests of the palace’s owner, MR Narisara, a great-granddaughter of King Rama V, after she moved to Bangkok from England in the early 1980s. The hotel, which opened four years ago, offers suite-style accommodation in three Thai teak pavilions and one contemporary Chinese-style villa that’s ideal for two couples or a family. The Thai pavilions along the river’s bank are often full, so we stayed in the two-storey Chinese Suite that once served as the home and music studio of Chulachak or Hugo, MR Narisara’s oldest son, frontman of the now-defunct | 16 |
rock band Sib Lor. Hugo moved back to London two years ago and it’s now been converted into a two-bedroom suite complete with kitchen, living room and reading corner. Chinese-style sandstone sculptures, wood carvings and ceramics set an oriental tone, while modern ceiling lamps and comfortable arm chairs provide the contemporary touch. In the evening we enjoy a traditional meal straight from the palace kitchen of
pomelo salad with shrimp and spicy shrimp soup at the elegant riverside restaurant, which offers a wonderful view of Wat Arun. Speed boats as well as longtail boats are available for guests to explore Bangkok from the river while those wishing to take it easy can arrange for a masseur from Wat Pho to knead the knots away. Just ask the helpful reservations manager, Bhusnisa Uthayanwuthikul. Four B&B rooms in colourful Indian and Moroccan styles are also available.
Chakrabongse Villas is at 396 Maharaj Road in Tatien (near Pak Klong Flower Market). Prices range from Bt25,000 (Chinese Suite) to Bt4,500 (B&B rooms). For Valentine’s Day, the hotel is offering a very special romantic interlude costing Bt200,000 for a couple choosing to stay in the Chinese Suite. Benefits include a luxury Italian dinner.
Januar y 18-24, 2009
Wellness Why hits are healthy
You will ‘love’ this spa! Throughout February, Le Spa at Pullman Bangkok King Power has Valentine’s treats for couples. Included is a three-hour spa session with a rose milk bath or an herbal steam, jasmine-rice body exfoliation, a relaxing aroma massage with warm oil and a facial with essential aromas and flower buds. Every couple gets a bottle of sparkling wine with they’re soaking in the Jacuzzi too. The price is Bt12,960 net per couple. Call (02) 680 9999.
Your favourite music gets the blood flowing, researchers confirm
Get better in the hills Enjoy yoga and other soul-stirring activities in the secluded Mae Taeng hills of Chiang Mai. You’ll live the simple life, in a clean and comfortable tent, while replacing your body’s toxins with fresh organic and vegetarian food. Yoga classes are taught by Preenun Nana, while Morakot Piyakesin leads the meditation. The outing is from February 7 to 9 at Dr Tui’s organic farm, and the price is Bt5,000 with a shared tent or Bt5,600 on your own. Only 10 people can sign up, so call (084) 636 2642.
Agence France-Pre sse
Januar y 18-24, 2009
sation to the emotions they felt, the participants were instructed to avoid listening to their favourites for at least two weeks before the test. “The idea here was that, when they listened to this music that they really enjoyed, they would get an extra boost of whatever emotion was being generated,” says Miller. His team found that the diameter of the average upperarm blood vessel increased by 26 per cent after listening to joyful music, while listening to music that caused anxiety narrowed blood vessels by 6 per cent. The physiological impact of music may also affect the activity of the “feelgood” brain chemicals called endorphins, the study suggests. The results, says Miller, signal yet “another preventive strategy that we may incorporate in our daily lives to promote heart health”.
‘Back’ in top shape
P hoto / nanthasit nitmatha
L
istening to your favourite music may be helpful to maintaining a healthy heart. Researchers at the University of Maryland School of Medicine in the US have shown for the first time that the emotions aroused by the music we enjoy are good for the blood function. “I was impressed with the highly significant differences both before and after listening to joyful music, as well as between joyful and anxious music,” says head researcher Michael Miller. In the study, 10 healthy, nonsmoking volunteers listened to music that gave them a sense of joy, and it was found that this caused the inner-lining tissues of blood vessels to expand, which increased blood flow. The response matched the result of the same team’s 2005 study on the cardiovascular benefits of laughter. To minimise their desensiti-
Spa Botanica at the Sukhothai Hotel focusing on back and shoulder treatments through February. It’s a powerful revitalising experience, utilising a seaweed extract to give you healthy skin. You begin with a marine body scrub to exfoliate, and then thick layers of mineral-rich seaweed and marine algae deep-clean and rejuvenate the skin. Finally, an invigorating deep-tissue massage consolidates the impact. The 90-minute treatment costs Bt3,900. Call (02) 344 8900, extension 5910 or 5911, or visit www.Sukhothai.com. | 17 |
PHOTO ESSAY
| 18 |
January 18-24, 2009
Flights Of Fancy Text by I n a m A h m e d P hotos by Sye d Za k i r H oss ai n / Th e Dai l y Star
I
t looks like a vast wasteland. As far as eyes could stretch, there are hardly any signs of human habitation. This is Baikka Beel, one of Bangladesh’s most amazing wetlands, located in Hail Haor near Srimongol. Tourists flock
January 18-24, 2009
here mostly for bird watching. These winged creatures—purple moorhens, eagles, jacanas and teals—are all there. There are times when the sky gets almost blanketed by the flying birds. Just watch in wonder.
| 19 |
ENTERTAINMENT
The Khan War
The heart-throbs of Indian film industry trade barbs to drum up publicity for their films NEW DELHI
P Jayaram The Straits Times
AFP Photo
T
he war of words among Bollywood’s reigning Khans —Shah Rukh, Aamir and Salman—is escalating as younger actors have started snapping at the heels of the ageing trio. The barbs invariably intensify ahead of the release of their films, as the Khans nervously watch the response of their legions of fans. Aamir, 43, fired the latest salvo when his romantic action thriller, Ghajini, and the romantic comedy, Rab Ne Bana Di Jodi (God Made This Couple), starring Shah Rukh, were released recently. Shah Rukh is seven months younger than Aamir. “I’m sitting under a tree. A cool breeze is blowing ... Shah Rukh is licking my feet and I am feeding him biscuits every now and then. What more can I ask for?” Aamir wrote in his blog. Shah Rukh, by the way, just happens to be the name of his caretakers’ dog. “When I bought this house, it came with the caretakers and their dog,” he said. Obviously, such words are seized upon by the newspapers and magazines, producing instant reams of free publicity for a film. Indeed, Ghajini has become a blockbuster, grossing US$18 million in the first week of its release, the highest in the history of Hindi films. And a box-office hit is reassurance | 20 |
that a star continues to reign over the Hindi film industry. A flop would raise doubts about his popularity and marketability. And it could put a dent in the astronomical sums—conservative estimates put it at 100 million rupees ($2 million) per film—that each of the three Khans is said to command. Thus, it is not surprising that Shah Rukh, also known as SRK, quickly hit back with a snide remark about the buff figure that Aamir shows off in Ghajini, the product of a gruelling 10-month exercise regime. Shah Rukh himself had already displayed six-pack abs in another film, and noted in a chat with journalists: “I think it’s a good strategy. You take the biggest brand in the country, that is SRK. “The problem is that I cannot use another brand because there is no one bigger than me.” Aamir was quick to respond. “People who are No 1 don’t state the obvious,” he said. “For me, Amitabh Bachchan is No 1. Does he ever make claims about that? “Does (singer) Lata Mangeshkar make claims about it?” he went on. “Superstars don’t need to say anything about their status.” Meanwhile, Veer, starring Salman, 43, as an Indian warrior fighting British colonialists, is due to be released this year. So he could not resist tapping the publicity with a few choice words of his own. Taking a dig at Aamir, he said it would be difficult for the actor to maintain his ‘Ghajini’ look. “Next time when he takes off his shirt, he will have (nothing) to show,” he said in a TV interview.
Aamir Khan
Aamir Khan January 18-24, 2009
Aamir responded by saying he is an actor, “not a bodybuilder”. Salman, the ‘Rambo’ of Hindi films, and Shah Rukh have been exchanging barbs ever since their spat at a birthday party for leading lady Katrina Kaif last year. Some media reports said the two traded insults and almost came to blows over Shah Rukh’s refusal to make a guest appearance in a Salman film. “You don’t stop the car and start reacting to the dog. You don’t! There’s no point. I don’t wish to
react. I don’t have the time for it,” Salman wrote in his blog, reacting to the episode. Of course, beyond the gossip magazines and behind the scenes, the three Khans are friendlier. “We have high regard for each other. I have no hesitation in saying that I’m charmed by SRK,” Aamir said in an interview with bollywoodhungama.com. “It’s just that media takes an extreme stand; it pits us as either enemies or as best friends. As for all our
back-and-forth talks, it just shows that both of us have a good sense of humour,” he added. Shah Rukh, in turn, commended Aamir’s work in Ghajini. He even teased Aamir by suggesting that they do a movie together and let the audience compare their sixpack abs. “I was scared as I had lost my sixpack and wanted Aamir to say no,” said Shah Rukh. “Luckily, he said he has lost his pack too, so let’s give a chance to some other actor!”
Salman Khan Salman Khan
January 18-24, 2009
Shah Rukh Khan | 21 |
ARTS & CULTURE
BEIJING
Gan Tian China Daily
CHINA DAI LY
Staging A Revival Producing Peking Opera photos has become trendy in China these days | 22 |
C
hen Kaige’s Peking Operathemed movie Forever Enthralled about Chinese icon Mei Lanfang has given the traditional art form a new lease of life and even photographic studios are profiting. Hu Shuxue, 23, an advertising executive recently spent half her weekend and 980 yuan (US$143) dressing up in Peking Opera costumes and being snapped, after watching the movie. “After seeing my ‘traditional photo album’ all my colleagues want to take photos dressed as Peking Opera characters like Madame White Snake, Du Liniang or Yu Ji,” Hu says. Producing Peking Opera photos has become trendy. Currently, in Beijing, there are around 10 studios catering to customers who want Peking Operathemed photos. Yang Shaoduo set up Shaoduo Peking Opera Photography Studio seven years ago. In the beginning, Yang shot just professional performers, but this changed dramatically in mid-December when Forever EnJanuary 18-24, 2009
AFP
thralled came out. “The number of ordinary people who want these kind of photos suddenly increased after the movie was released,” Yang says. “They are all about 27 years old or so, and most of them are females.” Hu thinks the most obvious attraction is the dramatic Peking Opera make-up. It takes nearly two hours to complete the process, during which time professional performers teach some basic skills, such as expressions, movements and poses. “I got a really good lesson in this art taking these photos,” Hu says. Hu also paid a visit to Mei Lanfang Memorial Museum, in Beijing’s Xicheng district, where Mei spent his last 10 years. Ruifu Xiyuan, a Peking Opera house, collaborates with the Beijing nightclub Yugong Yishan. “It is funny to enact a traditional art form in such a modern place,” says Li Ruishui, 24, a Peking Opera beginner. There is a regular party for the city’s Peking Opera fans from 2 to 5 pm every Sunday. Twenty or so amateurs go on stage and sing several pieces for the first one and half hours. Then, six or seven professional performers will sing during the final half hour. Most of the attendees know little about the art. Li has learned several famous Peking Opera pieces—such as Farewell My Concubine (Bawang Bieji) and Drunken Beauty (Guifei Zuijiu)—that he performed at his company’s year-end party. Zou Weici, the event planner of Ruifu Xiyuan, says he enjoys meeting young people who know nothing about the art and introducing them to professional performers. Mei Lanfang Theatre and Chang’an Grand Theatre are the most popular places for Peking Opera, but are “too expensive for young people”, says Su Yi, a Peking Opera fan. But there are other options. Changheyuan, an experimental theatre of the China National Peking Opera January 18-24, 2009
Company, is one of them. “First it is very cheap. We students can afford 50 yuan ($7) each time. Second, it has some famous pieces, like Havoc in the Heaven (Danao Tiangong), Farewell My Concubine (Bawang Bieji) or Yang Silang Visits His Mother (Silang Tanmu), that are very easy to understand. This is very important for young people—we are fed too many fast-food style performances,” Su says. Mei Wei, 26, Mei Lanfang’s greatgrandson, now works at the Mei
Lanfang Memorial Museum. Though specialising in Peking Opera, he also loves rock and roll music. He even tries to combine the two art forms. Peking Opera emerged during the 1790s in Beijing and at its peak featured 15 major schools. The art form began to lose its popularity in the 1960s. Over the past decades, the government has tried to preserve Peking Opera and encourage its development, but it can be a difficult sell to the young. “They can try some classical pieces,” Su suggests, and advises them to check out Changheyuan. “Peking Opera is an art that people like if they try it,” says Yang Shaoduo from Shaoduo Peking Opera Photography Studio. “Though it requires concentration, more young people are becoming interested.” “They gradually turn their focus from Western fast-food culture to our traditional culture,” Yang says. “Every time I am here,” Li says. “Listening to their thin and high voices, I feel that is what I need. Not rock and roll, not McDonalds, not Harry Potter. “The young generation also has the responsibility to carry on our traditional culture,” Li adds. SNAP: A photographer takes pictures of a customer dressed as a Peking Opera character in the Shaoduo Peking Opera Photography Studio in Beijing.
Cou rt e sy o f S h ao duo P eking Opera P h otog raph y Stu dio
| 23 |
ARTS & CULTURE
Lurik Looms
The indigenous Javanese handwoven fabric, was all but forgotten several decades ago. It’s now experiencing a revival thanks to community projects, cottage industries and a few fashion designers who are anxious to preserve this bit of their heritage YOGYAKARTA
Linda Hoffman The Jakarta Post
I
t’s high time that Yogyakarta let the rest of the world in on yet another of its mysterious secrets. There’s an indigenous handwoven cloth here that predates the popularity of batik. Who knew? The striped cloth of the jackets worn by Keraton (palace) officials in both Yogya and Solo, called lurik, was once fervently handwoven in villages throughout Java. But by the 1970s, lurik had fallen out of fashion, to be replaced by cheaper, more modern factory-made fabrics. Many traditional weavers turned to other ways of earning their livelihoods, leaving behind centuries of culture. Today, | 24 |
thanks to a new generation actively cultivating their heritage, lurik is experiencing a renaissance in several interesting ways and one day may be as identifiable with Yogya as batik is. For young entrepreneurs Ibus Endang and Eci, owners of Lurik Lurik in Yogya, the traditional cloth became the focus of their business because they like what it represents. “Lurik is for everyone,” they say. “Unlike batik, which originated in the palace, lurik always belonged to the people. Even though some motifs were worn only by the Keraton it was always a cloth worn by regular people in their daily lives.” Lurik Lurik is doing its part to preserve this ancient tradition by designing and producing modern products made from lurik—bags, sandals, a few clothing items and toys
— that appeal to today’s shoppers. They sell through craft shows, particularly in Jakarta, which has an abundance of foreign visitors who appreciate traditional fabrics. Endang and Eci buy lurik from the only workshop left in Yogya that still weaves traditional motifs, along with contemporary ones. Renowned for the high-quality cloth his weavers and dyers produce, owner Pak Dibyo designed a special motif in celebration of Yogyakarta’s 200th anniversary at the request of the city’s sultan. Setting up pedal-driven, non-mechanical looms before weaving is a tedious task performed by one of Pak Dibyo’s long-time workers. A mindboggling 2,100 threads are threaded through complex apparatus to produce a textile 70cm wide. His main dyer is elderly and although people can be January 18-24, 2009
trained to weave, the fear is that these two specialties—which some aficionados say is the heart and soul of weaving-–are not being sought out by the younger generation. Nobody really knows when weaving began in Indonesia or how it came here, but it is documented that the archipelago has a long history in this particular art. Skillful weavers, always women, once had a particularly high social status; in some areas of the country, only noblewomen were permitted to weave. References to a horizontal striped cloth are made in ancient Javanese Hindu inscriptions dating back to the Mataram Empire in 851–852 AD; folklore and shadow puppet plays also contain legends referring to weaving. Alternatively, according to Threads of Life in Bali, an internationally recognised organisation dedicated to sustaining Indonesia’s textile arts, batik probably originated in Java with a rice-paste technique but did not begin to develop until the invention of the canting (the wax ‘drawing’ tool) in the 17th century. Initially, all Indonesian textiles were woven on back-strap looms, so named because the tension on the threads is controlled by a strap fitted across the weaver’s back. The back-strap loom was replaced by the more efficient pedal-driven, non-mechanical loom at the beginning of the 20th century, so today the back-strap variety is seen only in isolated villages. As in days gone by, today’s village women still January 18-24, 2009
weave to make clothing for their families or to earn extra income only when the household chores are done, the crops are harvested and family duties allow free time. Frequently they are forced to sell their cloth to middlemen for a pittance because they cannot afford trips to the nearest market, where they could get a better price. So what makes lurik unique amid all the other types of weaving? The answer, as with all things Javanese, is multifaceted: What you see on the surface is not exactly all there is to the story. While the ikat cloths woven in eastern Indonesia are distinctive because of a special technique of tying the threads to form motifs before the threads are dyed, they are nevertheless woven in the same manner as lurik. The songket of the Minangkabau in Sumatra is also woven similarly, except it has supplementary weft threads in silver or gold. Is it the striped motifs that make a fabric lurik? Not really. Although stripes are most readily identified as lurik, there are other motifs, such as a checkered pattern, more contemporary, regional designs such as raindrops and a plain cloth with no design at all, that are also called lurik. Here’s where the Javanese complexity comes into play. According to Yogya-based Ninik Darmawan, a top Indonesian fashion designer who has been instrumental in reviving the fabric, lurik-making is a culture in and
of itself. “It’s a process of the mind and heart,” Ninik says. “Weaving lurik requires discipline, patience, neatness and dedication. It cannot be done carelessly; it must be done properly to get good results.” Ninik believes that high-quality lurik is a reflection of good community culture and that re-establishing traditional lurik weaving can even rebuild that culture. She cites an example of a village in the Yogya region that is producing lurik with earthquake relief aid money to provide jobs for local women. The weavers were given the chance to freely express themselves so are using modern colours and non-traditional motifs. They are now exporting this contemporary lurik, so the project is considered an economic success. But, according to Ninik, the quality is not good: Dyes run, patterns are not even and edges of the cloths are not straight. Ninik says this is because the village did not incorporate the ‘spirit’ of lurik: patience, discipline, dedication and neatness. She believes that if the weavers had been instructed in the cultural aspect of lurik first, they would produce a better quality product. Ninik expands her explanation of what lurik really is by adding, “It’s actually a reflection of Javanese life: cool, not too showy, simple, down-toearth. The primary motif—stripes— isn’t too complicated.” | 25 |
WILDLIFE
Just The Bear Necessities China’s charming baby polar bear has a sad story to tell
| 26 |
January 18-24, 2009
BEIJING
Kang Shu China Daily
T
aotao, a 10-month-old polar bear sways and waves his paws in the air as if saying hello to his visitors. But behind the antics is a sad story. Like Knut, the polar bear from Germany, Taotao was abandoned by his young mother shortly after birth, according to Li Li, a keeper at Laohutan Ocean Park in Dalian, Liaoning province. Li says that Taotao is one of the first generation of polar bears born and raised in China since this rare species was introduced. He was in such a vulnerable condition at first that he had to be kept in a special incubator for weeks. “We sat beside the incubator 24 hours every day to monitor his temperature and breathing, help with his urination and defecation, and even smell his waste to tell if he was healthy,” Li says. During the first few weeks, keepers had to wipe their hands and clothes with Taotao’s diapers in order to smell familiar to Taotao, or it would not let keepers come close, according to Sun Shijia, one of Taotao’s keepers at the park. As the days went by, Taotao grew more attached to its keepers. “He sucked our fingers like a nursing infant and purred like a gentle cat being caressed,” January 18-24, 2009
says Li Ping, another of Taotao’s keepers. Taotao often bit them tenderly, according to Li, a way of showing affection and happiness during play. Even so, the keepers’ hands and arms were black and blue. After meticulous care for 10 months, Taotao grew quickly from several hundred grams at birth to the present 35 kg. Sun says the helpless baby with
light pink skin and fine soft hair has grown into a vigorous child with snow-white fur and an air of charming naivety. Taotao swims in his special swimming pool every day. On hot days he lingers in the pool for hours, paddling in the water and splashing. Sometimes the keepers have no alternative but to carry him out, according to Li Ping. There is a long story behind Taotao’s birth. Keeper Li says that Taotao’s parents were from Finland and were presented by the Finland National Park as ambassadors of friendship between China and Finland in 2001, settling in Laohutan Ocean Park. Taotao was not born until seven years later. According to Li, the reason for this was that the male bear is 16 years old this year, or over 40 in human terms, while the female bear is only 9, still quite young, in comparison. Taotao was born on March 9, 2008. Sun says the inexperienced mother was at a loss, confused by the birth of this poor little creature and left him on the cold ground. Taotao survived thanks to his human nannies, who spared no effort in taking care of him. “We have given Taotao more care than our own children,” Sun says. | 27 |
People
Zhang Ziyi Exposed While Chinese actresses have appeared nude in films, Zhang is believed to be the first major star to be caught undressed by the paparazzi BEIJING
Peh Shing Huei The Straits Times
M
ore than 80 pictures of well-known Chinese actress Zhang Ziyi sunbathing topless and frolicking on a beach have appeared online, sending netizens in China wild. The photos first appeared on the Internet on January 5—the same day that the Chinese government sent out stern warnings to 19 top websites over issues of pornography and vulgarity. The photos, taken by a Los Angelesbased paparazzi agency, showed Zhang on the Caribbean island of St Barts with her fiancé, Israeli investor Vivi Nevo, on January 2. The star of the Hollywood film Memoirs Of A Geisha was shown taking off her red bikini and lying face down, with her
buttocks exposed. Nevo was shown stroking and nuzzling her buttocks. Zhang was also shot lying on her back, with her breasts clearly revealed. There were also less revealing pictures of her strolling along the beach with Nevo, who reportedly has a private beach on the island. The pictures were posted on numerous Chinese websites, attracting a flood of comments from netizens on the star, who was recently named by The Beijing News as China’s most beautiful person in 2008—edging out fellow celebrities Tony Leung Chiu Wai and Zhou Xun. The website operators quickly deleted many of the revealing pictures and, in a sign of caution amid the official crackdown on pornography, some forums even took down comments left by netizens
AFP PHOTO/FRED DUFOUR
Zhang Ziyi and her fiancé, Vivi Nevo
| 28 |
on the issue. Sichuan province’s Huaxi City newspaper said its reporter had exchanged text messages with Zhang’s representatives and the actress was shocked and furious when she learnt of the pictures. The Beijing-born star is in the United States. Zhang’s manager did not dispute the authenticity of the pictures in her statement to the media. She said: “Ziyi and her fiancé were holidaying on a beach as a part of normal life and as a matter of personal privacy. “I sympathise with all celebrities whose privacy is invaded. It is difficult for them to enjoy vacations and ordinary, everyday life.” While mainland actresses have appeared nude in films—including Joan Chen, Bai Ling and Tang Wei recently in Lee Ang’s Lust, Caution— Zhang is believed to be the first major star to be caught undressed by the paparazzi. Her exposé comes a year after the Edison Chen photo scandal, when the Hong Kong-based actor’s collection of intimate shots with various female stars shook the Chinese entertainment industry last January. Chinese netizens were not sympathetic towards Zhang, slamming her for her modest assets and for being a shameless exhibitionist. Some even accused her of bringing shame to China and staging the shoot to generate publicity for herself. “Her figure is really poor and she really showed off her weaknesses. She should be more considerate towards the sentiments of the public,” said one netizen. “What a disgrace to the Chinese people,” said another. But there were a few who spoke up on behalf of the actress, whose recent film Forever Enthralled banked more than US$14.6 million in China. “It is very normal for Western magazines to shoot actresses sunbathing nude on beaches. Zhang is not the first. She is just the first Chinese actress,” said one. January 18-24, 2009
Believer In Good Things Warm, funny and easy-going, Korean-Spanish supermodel Ana Rivera is a hit wherever she goes KUALA LUMPUR
William KC Kee The Star
E
ven amidst the madness, you can’t miss her. My first sighting of Ana Rivera, better known as Ana R, is at the backstage of a fashion show during the Malaysia-International Fashion Week (M-IFW) last November. As models, designers and make-up artists noisily jostle for space, Ana R, 27, is seemingly oblivious to the behind-thescenes melee. The porcelainskinned Korean-Spanish beauty is relaxed and lounging on a sofa, her attention fixated on her iPhone. As Ana stands up to greet me, her face noticeably free of makeup, she looks fresh despite having just arrived from Hong Kong after a whirlwind of modelling jobs. Perhaps the only tell-tale signs of her hectic lifestyle are the eyebags. The 178cm-tall Ana is currently considered one of the top models in Hong Kong where she is now based. Since her catwalk debut in her teens, Ana has appeared on countless Hong Kong magazine covers and is in demand as a clothes-horse at fashion shows and events. Her profile peaked when she posed for a calendar, clad in nothing but a pair of Diesel jeans; it was to help raise money for the Hong Kong Breast Cancer Fund. Ana was invited to grace M-IFW in Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur as a January 18-24, 2009
celebrity model, opening and closing several choice designers’ runway shows. Throughout the event, Ana was a huge hit with local photographers who chronicled every outfit she wore. However, the attention is nothing compared to what she goes through on a daily basis in Hong Kong where,
having achieved supermodel status, she is closely watched by the paparazzi. As she relates in a magazine interview: “I didn’t realise that so many people are watching, no matter what I do. There were a few occasions when I accidentally exposed my boobs on the catwalk so the HK media nicknamed my breasts ‘Pink Panthers’.
I can’t believe they came up with this. When I first heard it, I was in shock. I started getting teased by my friends but I just laughed it off.” It is a surprising revelation that Ana—who obviously excels at her job—still finds modelling a challenge. “I was a very shy kid. So being photographed and doing runway shows was very hard for me. When I was working, I would pretend to be someone else, like I was playing dressing up,” explains Ana whose Spanish dad was a military man and Korean mum a homemaker. She considers herself a “very lucky girl to get the chance to model” and travel the world and make friends wherever she goes. When she is not strutting her stuff on the runway, Ana relaxes by watching Cartoon Network on television. “I can’t help it. I am a kid at heart,” says Ana with a girlish grin, adding that her classic favourites are Scooby Doo and Tom and Jerry. She also likes to spend time at home with her two beloved dogs, Gucci and Angel. Asked whom she looks up to in the modelling world, Ana cites Kate Moss. “She is of the old-school supermodels, truly unique in her own ways. Nowadays, all these reality modelling shows—coupled with plastic surgery which is easily available—make it hard for people to tell who’s a real beauty and who’s not.” Ana’s advice to aspiring models is simple: Be yourself. Finally, great news for guys vying for Ana’s heart. The recently single Ana (who broke up with a Panama-born model) says she doesn’t ask much from her significant other. “I just want him to love and respect me, as much as I love and respect him. I like someone whom I can have a good conversation with, and who knows how to be a man without being bossy. I’ve had my heart broken twice. And from each heartbreak, you learn something new about yourself. My philosophy in life is to do to others as you want them to do to you, and to believe in good things so that good things will come to you.” | 29 |
Explore
Wish You Were Here
Vacations are a time to rejuvenate but sometimes the holidays are just filled with too much adventure sagada
Revathi Murugappan The Star
| 30 |
Revath i Mu rug appan/Th e Star
W
hen our holiday plans to Japan fell through, my aunt and I purchased flight tickets to the Philippines. After all, this is a land where ancient rice terraces lie concealed in thick mountains and thousands of far-flung islands await the intrepid traveller. Armed with the Lonely Planet guidebook, we boarded the plane expecting another great adventure. In our previous travels, we had— among other things—been hospitalised, chased by hunks, offered gigolo services and found ourselves stranded in our country of destination. We fully expected to have another unforgettable trip this time around. Following the Filipino maxim bahala na or “go with the flow”, we made do without an itinerary. Upon landing in Manila, we scouted around and chose our hotel in the touristy area of Malate. The room had a basic set-up and was clean. However, I had an issue with the toilet. When you close the toilet door, it hits the toilet seat. Pray tell, how does one sit and not grind one’s knees on the door? With my long legs, I had to straddle uncomfortably on the seat. After a day, we decided to check out. Manila is as cosmopolitan as any
Asean city but two extremes of lifestyles continued packing in passengers. I had are obvious—the filthy rich and the people sit on my armrest and on the malnourished homeless. Aunt com- floor. The locals carried livestock and mented how amazing it was that the boxes of groceries. poor lived in cardboard boxes on the In Bontoc, we negotiated for a jeepstreets and yet were able to produce so ney, the main mode of transport in citmany children who turn to begging for ies and between regional centres. These a living. The American influence is ob- vehicles are modified army jeeps left vious in every corner and the locals are behind by the Americans after the war. a gregarious bunch. They have been givA week did not en a Filipino touch give us enough time with coloured headto see much. An offilights, paintings of cer at the Philippines the Virgin Mary and Tourism Authority neon-coloured advised us to take a scenes from the trip to the mouncomic books. tains—to Banaue Along with two (starting-point for other male passenthe surrounding rice gers, we got in. The terraces), then to old driver had probBontoc and Sagada. lems starting the Apparently, buses jeepney and he only leave at night shouted something for Banaue so we in Tagalog (the nabought tickets for tional language of that very night. the Philippines). After an hour into Ten people ran from A HELL OF A RIDE: It’s very common to our journey, our see adults, children, cargo and even live- all directions and driver decided it stock up on the roof of a jeepney. gave his vehicle a wasn’t worth making push. It chugged the trip with only five passengers. He along. What a bumpy four-hour ride it breezily let us off by the roadside and was on dirt roads. another bus picked us up. Now, if you knew your vehicle had Now, the Filipino express buses are problems starting, would you turn off not like Malaysian ones. You can flag it the engine? At the ‘comfort stop’, our down, anywhere, anytime. The journey driver did just that. When the jeepney to Banaue takes 10 hours and the bus failed to start again, the poor male was already overloaded. But, the driver passengers had to get down and push. January 18-24, 2009
come to do that. I won’t mind.” Right. I chose not to get pneumonia. So we began our journey back and, thankfully, we found my aunt silently sitting in the same spot where we had left her.
Safe at home ... or not
The scenic Banaue rice terraces
I offered to help but was turned down. One Filipino told me later that the local men don’t like women to do manly duties. We finally reached Sagada, battered, bruised and filthy. Sagada is a laid-back village where there are more chickens and cicadas than cars. It’s home to the Igorot mountainfolk and is set amidst jagged rock formations that slice through fir forests. Since Sagada is a haven for outdoor lovers, we explored our options.
Waterall in Sagada
Sumaging Cave
Cave exploring
Sumaging Cave, created by water erosion, is possibly one of the most popular caves in Sagada. It takes three hours to explore. Thousands of visitors trek down to see the magnificent display of stalactites and stalagmites. Historically, the cave also served as a hiding place for Filipino soldiers and guerillas during World War II. Prior to the war, it was a burial ground for the indigenous people in the area. With Robert, our guide, we began our journey at 5pm—the last group to enter the caves. The initial part was filled with sharp rocks, and the guano proved extremely slippery. Wearing designer flip flops is not a good idea, as we painfully found out. Not only did our feet sustain cuts, they were covered in guano! Unlike other caving guides, the ones in Sagada carry a huge kerosene lamp and discourage tourists from bringing torches.
January 18-24, 2009
“You’ll need your hands all the time,” said Robert. Hence, for safety reasons, the authorities limit four tourists to one guide. Halfway in, fear got the better of Aunt and she decided to quit exploring. Robert handed her a lighter and joked, “Don’t worry, the ghosts here are all friendly. Just don’t follow them.” She plunked herself on the guano. The two of us continued, and soon, we had to take our footwear off. The rocks were flat and rough but submerged in water. Ooh, it was cold as I tread waist-deep in water. We squeezed through small openings, abseiled and, at the end, found a small waterfall and deep pool. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a swimsuit on. Robert grinned, “Most Caucasian tourists are very liberated. They take off their clothes and jump in. You’re wel-
A few days later, we hit the road home and arrived at the low cost carrier terminal. We hopped on a budget taxi and, as luck would have it, our taxi driver decided to drive at a deathly slow speed. “We had a good trip. Neither of us fell sick and no one fleeced us. Soon we’ll be home for some nice tea,” I hummed cheerily while looking out the window. In a split second, the taxi driver decided to speed up a ramp. Perhaps he was also longing for a cup of teh tarik. When he reached the top, holy cow, there was a massive traffic jam ahead. Unable to brake in time, he slammed into the car in front, which in turn knocked into another car ahead. Shards of glass flew outside but thankfully, our driver emerged unscathed. My aunt suffered bruises on her cheek while I had bumps on my shins. “It’s my first accident since I started driving in 1973,” the taxi driver said defensively, as he called his daughter to pick us up. My aunt and I stood smiling at passers-by hoping someone would offer us a ride home. A tow truck swung by and our driver’s face lit up momentarily. Alas, it was pulling a police car with two cops having a snooze in the back. Two hours later, we were reciting our tales to all at home. The next day, I discovered I had whiplash. It took a week to recover. What a way to end our holiday, but it was another exciting adventure nevertheless. | 31 |
Explore
A Walk Back In Time A government sign in the quaint Vietnamese town of Hoi An says: ‘This town is for walking and primitive vehicles only’ HOI AN
Yen Feng The Straits Times
D
ressed in an eye-catching green dress with a red flower in her hair, a laughing Lauren James is hard to miss. Along the Thu Bon River in Hoi An, the 28-year-old Australian tour guide and her entourage are especially striking. In this coastal town of central Viet
Nam, groups of white men and women still raise an eyebrow or two, not to mention voices. Every night, hundreds of bony, tanned Vietnamese line this stretch of river attending to tourists with their lively chatter. Next to rickety stalls and shopfronts spilling with merchandise, | 32 |
they hawk everything from lanterns and handmade shirts (made to measure in 24 hours or less) to opium pots and squawking ducks. Impressively, scraggy kids on bicycles zip in and out of the adjacent Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, dodging piles of blueand-white china teetering over peppery pots of cao lau beef broth. In one corner, young men trade smokes while playing football with a crushed cigarette packet. Under the Japanese Covered Bridge at the end of Tran Phu Street, small wooden boats deliver the day’s haul of tra and basa fish and other sea critters for sale at the nearby Thanh Nam fishing village. In a moment, James stops under a street lamp and turns to face her group with a practised flourish. “This,” she tells them, “is the most authentic experience of Southeast Asia.” That may or may not be true, but there is no arguing that Viet Nam, a relative newcomer to capitalism, is the hottest ticket on the international tourist map today. And here in Hoi An, a south-central coastal town famous for its tailors, fresh seafood and pan-Asian architecture, seasoned travellers are saying this is Southeast Asia’s latest undiscovered gem.
Well, not quite. A town of about 90,000, Hoi An was listed by Unesco in 1999 as a World Heritage Site. From the 16th to 19th century, this trading port was a magnet for Southeast Asian commerce, drawing European, Chinese and Japanese merchants, who sailed down the Thu Bon to trade silk, paper, porcelain, oils and spices. Four hundred years later, the ships are gone. But their one-time masters had stayed behind to build homes, temples and assembly halls in their native styles. Some even married Vietnamese women. The result is an impressive m?lange of Chinese ancestral homes with Japanese-style roofs and an occasional Catholic chapel. Even today, Hoi An has magically retained that old-world character and remains determinedly homespun. None of the locals carry cellphones. The Internet, when available, is dialup and ATMs work for only 12 hours, from 9am to 9pm. The roads fill with the tinkle of bicycles day and night. Freshly slaughtered produce are stacked, hooked and sold without a January 18-24, 2009
whiff of refrigeration. The town’s unpolished charm is a sign of local pride, literally: A government-installed notice in Le Loi Street reads: “This town is for walking and primitive vehicles only.” All these suit James just fine. The more untouched and underdeveloped a place is, she says, the more her clients are willing to pay to get a glimpse of a forgotten era.
Tourist de force
Hoi An’s suburbs, however, have not been as impenetrable to modernity. In 2001, two years after Unesco’s discovery, foreign investment around central Viet Nam kickstarted a building boom aimed to attract Southeast Asia-bound tourists who are tired of the usual stops between Bali and Bangkok. Because the local government wanted to preserve Hoi An’s architectural heritage, development concentrated instead around Danang, Viet Nam’s fourth largest city and whose airport is a 20minute taxi ride from Hoi An.
Adventure in the streets
A mid-range hotel in downtown Hoi An costs about US$30 a night. The tourism boom has helped boost the economy as well as provided the locals with new jobs and skills in the hospitality industry.
January 18-24, 2009
Restaurant owner Duc Tran, who owns a Mexican-stylé cafe, Mango Rooms, on Hoi An’s riverfront, said that in 2004, he served only about 20 diners a night. These days, he gets more than 200 every night. An entrée costs about $20. His staff has doubled and by the end of the year, he will open a second restaurant across the river. For some locals, a new job is an opportunity to break out of the poverty cycle. Nam Hai’s director of sales Christian de Boer says the area’s development has doubled its residents’ average income per person from $50 to $90 a month. Nguyen Huu Y is a 26-year-old working in Nam Hai’s kitchen. Last year, he was selling newspapers in the streets and making less than $1 a day. Today, he earns $90 a month and knows how to rescue a broken Bechamel. His new skills will be indispensable in the changing landscape of central Viet Nam, once shunned and overlooked by tourists in favour of Ha Noi and Ho Chi Minh City, the country’s more popular cities in the north and south. In fact, the Viet Nam National Administration of Tourism says tourist arrivals in central Viet Nam are among the fastest-growing in the country. By the end of this year, the number of visitors to Danang, Hoi An’s closest major city— mostly from China, South Korea and Taiwan—will have surged 30 per cent, up from 315,000 last year. Visitors to the neighbouring Quang Nam province surpassed 600,000 in the first six
months of this year, compared to just over 1 million last year, and 800,000 in 2006. Overall tourist arrivals in Viet Nam last year is still small at 4.2 million, compared to Thailand’s 14.5 million, but industry experts say figures should go up, barring any political upset.
Tailored to fit
Inside A Dong Silk at 62 Tran Hung Dao Street, James’ tourists are admiring Vietnamese silk that covers the walls in lush rolls. They will have a hard time deciding what to get and where to get it. Locals estimate there are more than 400 tailor shops in Hoi An. Such intense competition generally means costs are low and quality decent. Prices range dramatically from $30 to $300 for a handmade two-piece suit. Customers generally get what they pay for. When buying multiple items, ask for at least a 15 per cent discount. Many of these shops are alike: They’re fronted by winsome adolescent girls and their tailors earn a living by copying designs from major Western fashion labels. Inside, tables are strewn with catalogues, fabric and pattern books marked ‘Armani’, ‘Versace’ and ‘Prada’.
Meals on wheels
To the untrained eye, rolling wagons of headless chickens and glazed pigs’ snouts can be a stomach-turning display. Look away if you must, but even though Hoi An’s restaurant culture is growing, the town’s most exciting cuisine is still local—and mobile. Many makeshift stalls that operate in alleyways and street corners offer great grub for around $1 a meal. | 33 |
DATE BOOK PHIMAI
Wimaya Nattakan Light and Sound Show
T
his Thai cultural presentation depicts the past glory of ancient Phimai and the Khmer empire. The first half of the performance features choreographic creations inspired by the bas-relief of the Phimai sanctuary itself. Vignettes depicted include Buddhist religious processions, the ancient ritual dance of the boxers and the Phimaipura or Vimayapura dance. Folk and traditional dances such as the Bai Sri Su Kwan dance, Manohra Len Nam dance, the Dung Krok and Dung Sak mortar and pestle dance are featured in the second half of the presentation. When: January 31 Where: Phimai Historical Park
ILOILO C ITY
Dinagyang Festival
T
his festival, marked by spectacular street merrymaking, is an annual event held on the fourth Sunday of January to commemorate the birth of Christianity in the area and to honour the Holy Child Jesus, Santo Niño. It culminates in a very colourful parade coupled with a dramatisation in honour of the patron Saint Santo Niño as the object of dramatised offerings and prayers amidst the beating of drums and shouts of “Viva Señor Santo Niño”. The thundering of “Hala Bira” by tribe members in colourful costumes makes the celebration a lively one. When: January 16-25
TOKYO
Daruma Ichi
T
he Daruma Ichi ( Fair of Dharma Dolls ) is held in Jindai-ji Temple of the Tokyo Chofu city every year. Daruma doll is a popular wishfulfillment charms for Japanese. People fill one eye on a daruma doll when they set up a goal or wish, then the other when it is realised. The form of a Dharma doll is round. It means that it gets up even if it is down. When: February 3
VIENTIANE HA NOI
Tet
T
et is the most important festival of the Vietnamese people. This sacred festival is held sometime between late January or early February (depends on the Lunar Calendar). Vietnamese, wherever they may be, are all thrilled and excited with the advent of Tet, and feel an immense nostalgia, wishing to come back to their homeland for a family reunion and to join Vietnamese festivities. Although officially a three-day affair, festivities may last for a week or more. It is also a time for family reunions, and for paying respects to ancestors and the elders. Gifts of food are made to friends, neighbours and relatives in the days before Tet. When: January 15-25
Marha Puha
T
his festival is a commemoration of an inspiring speech delivered by the Buddha himself to 1,250 enlightened monks who came to listen to him without prior notice. In his speech, Buddha predicted his own death and laid down the rules regarding monkhood. Chanting and offerings mark the festival, culminating in the candlelit circumambulation of temples throughout the country. It is celebrated most in Vientiane and at the Khmer ruins of Wat Phu, near Champasak. The people rejoice and worship fervently during this festival. When: February where: Throughout Laos
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