CaLDRON Magazine, September 2014 by Chef at Large

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September 2014

CaLDRON Magazine

Degustation menus with molecular gastronomy! / page 22

read reviews from delhi, mumbai and bangalore Irish beer and german sausages! CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

degustation menus

molecular LoTR Beer?? gastronomy recipes an uber-awesome burger discovered japanese cuisine transformed at harry's bar! kebab myths explained

food allergies explained

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

EDITORIAL & CREDITS

his is a month of numbers for us. By the time you read this we'll either be at 100,000 members in our Facebook group or we'll be a few hundred shy of that number. CaLDRON Magazine's readers have rocketed to 300,000 and the

number of times our issues have been read is a little short of 750,000 that's three quarters of a million! Yes, it's a bunch of firsts for us and we're quite proud and grateful

that you've stuck with us on our journey thus far. We've always been quite particular about the quality of our content and now we're putting an equal amount of focus on how our issues look. You may have noticed this in the August 2014 issue and hopefully, you'll feel the same about this issue too. Talking about issues, this one has a marked focus on degustation, within which there's a distinct spotlight on the explicit use of Molecular Gastronomy. What do you think about it? I'm not such a big fan of the term, considering we use chemical concepts every time we cook. When we sear meat before braising, we're firstly utilising the Maillard reaction and then we're working towards the liquification of tissue, which gives our gravies that meaty flavor. When we whip eggs, we're essentially trapping finer and finer bubbles into a mass of egg and also breaking down fibres into smaller strands. When we fold that beaten egg into a batter of flour, we're leavening the thick mass of flour with air trapped inside the beaten egg, which makes the final baked product fluffy. Some of us understand this and some of us do it because we've been told to do so. In either case, these aren't new concepts and making little balls of mango isn't going to change that. Rightly said therefore, that menus that incorporate the extensive use of Molecular Gastronomy aren't really meals, but culinary experiences. Let's let it be at that. :) Degustation menus however are a completely different animal and one that all of us must respect. It takes skill, patience and a great deal of hard work to come up with perfectly matched menus and then to make it all happen in the kitchen in order to deliver a seamlesss experience to the diner. I've partaken of more such menus than I can remember and can only marvel at the kind of vision chefs needs to be able to see it all in their mind's eyes and then translate that vision into culinary, on-table reality. Have you tried a degustation menu yet? If not, you really must do so. The experience is vital round off your culinary character and perhaps even expand your horizons. I hope you enjoy this issue and look forward to your feedback and comments. Stay well. Sid Khullar

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

Contents CaLDRON: A Year Older and Oh So Popular! / 8 Perennials Member Poll - How many cheeses have you tried? / 77 Editorial / 3 Remembered this month / 6 Faces in this issue / 7 Ask the Experts / 80 Listings - National / 96 Listings - International / 98 Reviews Delhi

Of Bootleggers and Basics / 10 A Burger that Awed in a Bar called Harry's / 12 Mumbai

Eat, Drink, Love, Repeat. / 14 Whimsey has a New Address / 16 Bangalore

When Desserts have the Floor / 18 Checks in All the Boxes / 20 Food & Flavors Salvation in the Form of Food / 36 Heavenly Morsels / 48 Trouble in a Teacup / 62 Food Allergies: Hiding Remarkable Allegories / 66 Take Deep Draughts with Gollum, Smaug and Bolg / 69 Events All Things Nice Wine Week: Lacking Fizz / 56 When Kids Play Superchefs / 58 Whiskey up a Storm / 60

Roaming Rover Soul Searching in Mulshi / 82 Spa Scape Knocking on Heaven's Door / 88 Spiritual Quest Cellar Speak with Shipra Jain / 70 Toasting the Stout Irish Spirit / 74 People you should Know A Transformative View of Japanese Food / 30 Knowledge that Empowers A Sausage for Every Plate / 43 Airfry your Way to Lean Cooking / 78 Inspirations: Molecular Gastronomy Cover Story Degustation: Down but not Out / 22 Recipes Pumpkin Cracker with Goat Cheese Mousse / 25 Sarson ke Galawat with Corn and Cheese Tostadas with Chaas Spheres / 29 Peach Candy / 32 Hare Dhaniya Mirch ka Murgh / 39 Dal Dhuan / 40 Sauerkraut / 46 Potato Salad / 46 Rajma ki Shammi / 51 Kalmi Kalander Kabab / 52 Saag aur Khumb ke Sheekh / 53 Jheenga Samarkhand / 54 Matar Khoye ka Sheekh / 55

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

The Chef at Large Team MANAGING EDITOR SID KHULLAR (Delhi/NCR) ASSOCIATE EDITOR NATASHA ALI (Bangalore) CONSULTING EDITOR VINITA BHATIA (Mumbai) EVENTS EDITOR PARUL PRATAP SHIRAZI (Delhi/NCR) SUBJECT MATTER EXPERTS SANDEEP SRINIVASA (Coffee) JASWINDER SINGH (Wine & Spirits) SPECIAL PROJECTS RITUPARNA MUKERJI SHRUTI ARORA CHARIS ALFRED BHAGIANTHAN SALES AND ADVERTISING QUERIES sales@chefatlarge.in

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CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

Remembered THIS MONTH

Vadilal Gandhi (February 15, 1925 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; August 2014) The founder of the well known ice creams and frozen foods conglomerate, Vadilal Group, died at the age of 89 in the second half of August 2014, stated a media statement released by the company. Mr. Gandhi was 89 years old and had been bedridden due to ill health for two year prior to his demise. The man who began his career by expanding on the soda business in Ahmedabad inherited by his father, left behind him, a family of seven children and their spouses, 15 grandchildren and 16 great grandchildren.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

CONTRIBUTORS

Faces in this Issue

Though Ajay Chopra, Executive Chef, The Westin Mumbai Garden City, has worked internationally, he has always been passionate about Indian food. He is particularly fond of the homely North West Frontier food, especially kebabs and hopes more people experiment with kebabs. He busts some myths about grilling kebabs with and without a sigree or tandoor. Trichologist Dr Mike Ryan is a member of the Institute of Trichologists (London) and the International Association of Trichologists. Over the past 30 years, he has headed national educational departments for leading hair care brands and is currently working with Clear Shampoo in Middle East. He believes that eating right is the first step to controlling hair loss and is the secret to lustrous tresses.

Anup Gupta, Executive Chef, The Gateway Hotel Ganges Varanasi believes that when in Rome, do as the Romans. And when in Benaras, cook like the locals. He specialises in the vegetarian Shudh Saatvik Brahmin style of cooking as well as the meat-heavy Muslim Gharana cuisine; both of which have their strong roots in the city. He prefers preparing the latter the traditional way, in all its rusticity rather than overwhelming it with spices and cream. Hans Hartmann, a German Charcuterie Chef and an expert in meat production, has nearly 45 years of experience and has consulted more than 20 companies, including Sheraton Lagos and the Sausage-King Factoryamong other known and proven names in the hospitality business. From cold cuts to sausages this meat connoisseur knows every cut in every animal well. Sadly, he reveals that sausages are little understood the world over and even in Germany, which is home to an astounding 500 varieties of the steak in a tube.

Oliver Schauf is always happy to pull a pint for beer lovers at Doolally Microbrewery in Pune. With over 10 years professional brewing and distillation experience spanning Europe and Russia, Oliver has graduated in brewing technology from the Technical University of Berlin and has worked in various capacities in the craft brewing industry. When not brewing, he likes to visit places that are, well, a little odd. He has taken a road trip from Berlin to Russia to visit an abandoned nuclear submarine base of the erstwhile USSR! CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

anniversary splash

CaLDRON: A Year Older, And Oh-So-Popular! “CaLDRON has managed to hit the right balance between being interesting and staying relevant. With features on casual and fine dining, gourmet foods and beverages as well as recipes from celebrated chefs, CaLDRON makes for a refreshing read. Highlighting what is happening throughout India with bits of international hospitality fare thrown in, it’s a one stop shop for one’s regular dose of all things culinary. With my fetish for the traditional magazine, I would love to see it in its printed avatar soon.” Chef Suprabhat Roy, Executive Chef, Eros Hotel “I have regularly read CaLDRON magazine. One article from the issue that has stuck to my mind is ‘Terra Farms Microgreens: Yet To Come Of Age’. Microgreens are something I have been waiting for a long time and it should have come of age in India and be easily available in the local markets. Microgreens lift up the presentation of food to a great degree and I used to work with it often when I worked overseas. What I like most about CaLDRON is that it is constantly innovative, yet in sync with times. It takes up issues faced by the food and beverage industry, and aptly communicates to the general public about what is happening in the food domain. All the best for future issues too.” Chef Sanjay Mitra, Executive Chef, Four Points By Sheraton, Pune 8

“CaLDRON is a serious effort from a discerning gastronome whose heart and mind are in the right place and decidedly bigger than his stomach! I have found the content is always engaging and contemporary; that is say, relevant to everyone, and not just the fantastical stuff we often hear of but never can first-hand experience. The writing is sharp and witty and the styling, memorably elegant. It is great to see CaLDRON is such a stunning success story online and, at the risk of playing Loki, how about going into print, guys?” Magandeep Singh, Sommelier at Wi-Not Beverage Solutions

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

anniversary splash “CaLDRON has established a very niche audience within a year of its launch. It has interactive content on food and hospitality that touches the basic nuance of ‘regular entertainment’ for its target group. CaLDRON also shares a holistic insight on food and beverage trend with professional content contributors, making new dining option an ultimate delight for epicureans. It has become a handy read for me to keep abreast with what is new in town. One of your articles, ‘Diners from Hell’, was an interesting topic since it provided an astute on expectation versus perception of the guests and service providers at hotels. Considering a large part of business success depends on guest experience and satisfaction, the story becomes a learning curve for every restaurateur to understand that the customer today is well-informed, well-travelled and experimental; hence the ideal way to win-over the patron is by delivering to their expectations. It was also interesting to read how city chefs, despite of facing difficult diners, use ‘food charm’ in building patronage.

“I have read some CaLDRON issues and I must say it has definitely carved a niche for itself. I distinctly recall two articles from the July 2014 issue. The first is ‘The Spot Of Sunshine On A Rainy Day’ because it talks about health foods that don't compromise on the taste. Being a beer enthusiast I thoroughly enjoyed the article on 'A Beer Pilgrimage Across Germany' in the same issue. It was insightful and a great read. What makes the articles in CaLDRON stand out and the magazine so different is the style of writing, something that Caldron team has perfected! You guys are doing great work – new story angles, beautiful pictures and overall the content is amazing! I hope to see a print version soon!” Rahul Singh, Founder, The Beer Café

Going forward, I hope CaLDRON has more interactive customer engagement with chef ’s cook-off, reviews on social media platforms, regular Q&A columns with specialists and hosting the niche food experiential for hand-picked readers. It will give the magazine further significant drive.” Chef Ajay Chopra, TV host and Executive Chef at Westin Mumbai Garden City Mumbai

"CaLDRON is a great magazine to read if you are interested in every aspect of food. From trends, new happenings and various food cultures, the magazine has it all. Vinita Bhatia's enthusiasm shines through in the publication and CaLDRON has successfully played its part in driving the food revolution taking place in India." Nikhil Agarwal, Sommelier and Director at All Things Nice CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

REVIEWS - DELHI/ncr

Of Bootleggers And Basics

and has space for live acts. So it is sorted in matters of all things ‘fun’. The bar island itself is spectacular; massive, well stocked and if I can go by the Virgin Mojito, has a relatively experienced bartender. This would be a good place to start an evening. A hop across to another room in the back of the bar leads you to an exclusive space for Sheesha flown in from Dubai. Do check out the Eiffel Tower shaped one; classic Moonshine Cafe & Bar at Hauz Khas example of Arab frills. So they Village is where the thread for this have the ‘smoking on premise’ piece began. It is dressed like a Speak- thing sorted too – the Sheesha easy in patches, but sadly, it isn’t one. Bar is open air! This is a standard watering hole that The barstool style seating for dinwishes to graduate to bar and cafe with a brand new menu. er’s tables weren’t too comfortable, not for a ‘high heel’ wearer PLACE FOR ALL THINGS FUN and someone who waltzed up To be fair to their target audience, two flights of stairs to avoid a which in Delhi begins at 25 years, shady elevator! But once you the bar is huge with over 100 covers settle, find the sweet spot on

s trends go, Speakeasys came and went. Well, some stayed but the general vibe of an era still hangs loosely in the air. The sole purpose of a Speakeasy was to accommodate tipplers at the time of prohibition in the US (1920 - 1930). The only way to find a cubbyhole like this was word of mouth and if you knew the right people, there was a chance you’d be holding a Gin Rickey by midnight!

Moonshine is for newbies, first jobbers, NRI students and groups looking for a place that would fit them on a weekend out in Haus Khas Village. It has all the basics and the advantage of space but given the competition in its vicinity, it makes sense to pitch lunch menu specials and sundowners to fill the venue during the day.

The Moonshine Vegetarian Platter is attractively laid out and has something for everyone.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

Thai Green Curry, With Shredded Chicken with Bokchoy and Tofu is beautifully presented.

the wooden stool/chair and you can occupy yourself with matters of food and drink! The menu is standard, though I never understood the reason for the inclusion of Thai curries! Beer batter, sliders, fritti and then out of the blue – Thai green curry. I guess it serves the purpose of a group, something for everybody. It’s harder to do justice though; this menu was happening enough with the above keywords and some Tex Mex thrown in for good measure!

Special mention for the Non Veg Mezze Platter with surprisingly well done Lamb Kibbeh, juicy Shish Touk (could do with more seasoning) but passable Fish Fatayers.

which were as the pricing suggests, sustainable! There were no desserts on the menu and I was appalled! The meal felt incomplete and the Manager’s suggestion to try an Oreo Milkshake instead went over deaf ears – there was no dessert! Apparently, they would feature cupcakes soon.

Moonshine is for newbies, first jobbers, NRI students and groups looksize of the wings! I prefer wing-ettes and drum-ettes to be separate, so that ing for a place that would fit them on was nice though blue cheese dressing a weekend out in HKV. It has all the on the side would have been perfect. basics and the advantage of space but given the competition in its vicinity, they had best pitch lunch menu speNO DESSERTS JUST YET We started with a Fuzzy Jim ‘n’ Coke Special mention for the Non Veg Mez- cials and sun-downers to fill the venue (INR 430) and a Moonshine Special ze Platter with surprisingly well done during the day. (INR 250) mocktail with a round of Lamb Kibbeh, juicy Shish Touk (could Quattro Formaggi Fries (INR 275). The do with more seasoning) but passable Parul Pratap Shirazi drinks were fine and so were the fries Fish Fatayers. I loved the Hummus as long as they remained hot, so eat and the Baba Ghanoush but the Muthem quick; once the cheese cools, it’s hammara was more chillies and red just a mess of carbs. bell peppers than Aleppo peppers. Price: INR 2000++ (meal for two)

The Moonshine Chicken Wings, Buffalo Our main course was the Moonshine style (INR 425), were small but well Tenderloin Steak (INR 525) and Moonseasoned and ‘Buffalo style’ meant shine Keema Pao (INR 425) both of tangy, pungent BBQ sauce and not the CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

Address: 230, Second Floor, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi - 110016 Phones: 9818102392, 9899828004 11

REVIEWS - Delhi/ncr

A Burger That Awed, In A Bar Called Harry's

elect CityWalk mall is always bustling with something or the other going on, injecting a bit of life into an otherwise unremarkable afternoons. When I reached Harry’s, I saw a room bereft of any kind of custom. Most restaurants I passed on the way to Harry’s were at least half-full. I was the only one there and based on the good things I heard about this chain, this was quite unexpected. The pleasantly interiors dim was a welcome change from the startlingly bright walkways of the mall. Rows of lounge, high tables and bar stools were available for the picking. I chose the high table/chair combo down the middle as I settled to try out the new lunch menu that I was told is aimed drawing in the lunch crowds. A bowl of unshelled, roasted peanuts quickly arrived; quaint, though not much in way of a statement. My Soup of the Day, a piping hot vegetarian Tom Yum (INR 149) followed with carrots, cauliflower, spinach, mushrooms, broccoli and Chinese cabbage in a spicy, tangy broth. With just enough oil to make it comforting, the soup was light, refreshing and whetted my appetite for the salad.

The Crusted Chicken with BBQ Dressing Salad (INR 229) turned up a few minutes later, a nicely presented blend of warm, crusted and mildly browned, breaded escalopes of chicken, cut into crisp triangles, blended with olives, lettuce, peeled chunks of orange and jalapenos; this was a fulfilling meal in itself this. A word of preference here – the dressing, although attractive, could do with a sour element as surprisingly the pickled jalapenos had none. A TRYST WITH THE BURGER The Six Ounce Burger (399) was next – a fairly tall version of a category that’s getting taller by the day. I am not sure I like this trend of quantitative one-upmanship, when it is the quality we should be looking to. The last burger I ate was an utterly horrible example of the Rotissier’s art; the patty was cooked to death, leaving behind mouthfuls of sawdust with memories of moisture. I wasn’t looking forward to this one. Grabbing the burger with all ten fingers, I thought the bun too fluffy; a little more denseness within would have been appreciated. I took a bite and my eyes opened wide in shock, awe and delight. The Harry’s Six Ounce Burger

The Six-Ounce Burger at Harry's is what every burger should aspire to and you should accept no less.

was a work of art! The (buffalo) patty just short of well done, which was perfect, incredibly juicy inside, dripping a mixture of juices and fat, complemented by the presence of tomatoes, melted cheese and bacon. I ate like a man possessed and imagined the staff making snide comments about the last time I ate. I frankly did not care. The burger was never more than 1-inch from my mouth as I chewed feverishly, reveling in the spurts of moisture released by the perfectly ground meat, enjoying the sudden, cool succulence of tomato every now and then, delighting in the globs of warm, soft cheese that found CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

The ‘Penne Pasta in a Creamy Cheese Sauce’ was exactly as described – creamy and cheesy – accompanied with a very well made portion of garlic bread.

The burger was never more than 1-inch from my mouth as I chewed feverishly, reveling in the spurts of moisture released by the perfectly ground meat... CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

their way into the bite. I did not care for the accompanying, crisp fries or the sauce on the side. All I wanted was to cram that utterly beautiful burger into my mouth and that was exactly what I did. Three minutes later, I looked up; whiskers dripping with juices and adorned with pieces of bread, cheese and beef. I released a satisfied sigh and smiled a happy smile. This is what every burger should aspire to and you should accept no less. The burger was so good that I’ve forgotten the rest of the great food,

including the awesomely crisp and spicy Pha Rad Prik made with a succulent filleted fish. The ambiance mattered no more. I have fallen in love and I will be back for more meetings to reacquaint myself with this lovely. Thank you, Chef Mohit Nautiyal. Sid Khullar

Price: INR 1200++ (meal for two) Address: S4, 2nd Floor, Select Citywalk, Saket, New Delhi Phones: + 91-9999407923 13

REVIEWS - MUMBAI

Eat, Drink, Love,

Repeat.

Terttullia is the Spanish word to describe a gathering of friends over wine, food and music - an apt name for the new 70-cover all-day diner that has opened on Dadar’s seafront. Cross its threshold and you feel like you have tumbled down the rabbit hole in ‘Alice In Wonderland’. The likeable clutter around this compact eatery ranges from vintage objects in wall niches to the quaint flowery upholstery of the quintessentially English chairs to myriad light fixtures.

Having enjoyed Pune Terttullia’s sangrias, we wanted to see if we could get the same here, and if the answer was in the affirmative, we intended to dash back to the bar to get immediate refills. Luckily for us, the TT’s Sunday Sangria (INR 385) was the perfection in a snifter we remembered. The good quality red wine, fresh orange juice, big pieces of vodka-marinated fruits together combine to make it one heck of a fruity drink. The Japanese Ginger ‘n Pear Martini (INR 425) has a profusion of pink ginger and fresh pear slivers demanding to be bitten into with every sip of this vodka drink. COMFORT FOOD ALL DAY We began our meal with the impressive Goat Cheese Salad (INR 295) with roasted beet, orange 14

Hidden in a nondescript Dadar bylane, Terttullia has an appealing Europeinspired menu. However, more than the food, we predict people will flock to it for its impressive cocktails. slices, crunchy pine nuts and arugula leaves with balsamic dressing that gives the palate a kickstart with many flavors bursting in the mouth with every bite. Amidst the starters, we tried Chicken Tapenade (INR 325), which had cubes of clay-cooked chicken with thin shavings of Parmesan cheese. The addition of capers helped break the creaminess with a twang. The Sauté Basa (INR 345) is marinated in cilantro and pesto and tossed with chunky garlic pieces. Thankfully, the garlic too was well sautéd so it does not leave a pungent taste in the mouth.

Our only grouse with the Sundried Tomatoes Rubbed Grilled Shrimps (INR 365) was the size of the crustaceans. In fact, the other seafood we tried did not work well either because they had a synthetic feel that could be attributed to the fact that they are frozen. Owner Imrun Sethi assured us that post-monsoons, Terttullia would source bigger shrimps locally and the menu will also feature other local seafood to ensure freshness of the fish. The Karari Roti (INR 155) is the only Indian dish on the menu and has an interesting story behind it. Apparently, the place where the Pune Terttullia is currently based, earlier had a popular Indian restaurant. For years, people would keep visiting Terttullia and be disappointed not to find the erstwhile Indian restaurant. Imrun therefore decided to retain the popular crispy roti on the menu for their benefit. The Bacon ‘n Parmesan Wrapped Dates (INR 395) is yet another signature dish of Terttullia served with mustard crème fraiche. The saltiness of the thick bacon rinds gently nudges the overwhelming sweetness of the dates, which explains the presence of the crème fraiche. Order this only if you have an entire set of sweet teeth. CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

REVIEWS - MUMBAI MAIN COURSES THAT THRILL Terttulliaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s focus on freshness is evident when you slurp the first spoon of the Tomato Soup (INR 195), perfectly seasoned with perfect sweet and salty notes. The Chicken Mushroom Soup (INR 225) was first-rate with a deep brown color and a grainy texture. Some dishes that did not catch our fancy were the Gunpowder Potato (INR 135) and Portobello Mushrooms Stuffed with Cheese with Feta and Olive (INR 315), simply because they have miles to go before they can catch up with their peers on the menu. The pig from whence the Pork Chops (INR 515) came was definitely not on the same diet as the one the Empress of Blandings was on! While perfectly grilled with a lovely glaze and crispy edges, we would have preferred a little more meat on the chops. The Creme Brulee Cheesecake (INR 245) is definitely novel, but torching the sugar layer on top made the cheesecake a little custardy. The Gooey Chocolate Cake slice is a better option, if you like your desserts rich, thick and fattening. For long, Dadar was a bastion of eateries that were too small to be noticed or were too rustic to grab oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fancy. Terttullia might be able to shake the face of this sleepy area and make it a neighborhood to be seen in. Vinita Bhatia

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

... arugula leaves with balsamic dressing that gives the palate a kickstart with many flavors bursting in the mouth with every bite.

Price: INR 2500++ (meal for two) Address: Hotel Parkway, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai Phones: 022-60020202 15

REVIEWS - MUMBAI

t is an ingenious idea to combine great fashion and art with good food. But it gets even better when you place it in the outdoorsy ambience of a quaint eatery like The Little Door (TLD) in Andheri. Fenny Ganatra is the mastermind behind a new project that makes the most of TLD's ample space and exhibits artifacts and collectibles for those who want quirkiness and don’t mind paying a pretty penny for it. And to make sure that it does not become another gallery, Chef Nikhil Kedar of TLD has created an entirely different menu for lunch that complements Fenny G’s flair for fanciness. Before checking out the merchandise from Selleti, Zisiska, Bean Therapy and Leff, we decided to fortify our stomach with some food. We started off with the summery Watermelon and Feta Salad (INR 237), which is as tempting and unique as it sounds. A scooped ball of watermelon was placed atop blocks of feta cheese with some caramelized onion in between. The combination of the

juicy watermelon with soft feta cheese won us over in the first bite, and made us want some more. FANCY PRESENTATIONS Chef Nikhil suggested we try the Two Roast Peppers (INR 387) and it was a fine choice indeed. Champagne infused spaghetti with mushrooms were stuffed in one bell pepper, while the other housed tangy vodka infused risotto. The spaghetti was a clear winner of the two given its creamy and earthy textures. While the Stuffed Chicken Roulade (INR 387) was good, we dug into the lemon butter caper sauce served alongside with far more relish. The Jalapeno Potato Burger (INR 327) was presented rather fancily with crispy potato wedges and burnt garlic aioli on the side. Tasting slightly on the spicier side, the burger patty was quite huge compared to the sesame topped bun, but making it a highly messy affair to partake in. The Aromatic Chicken (INR 327) served on lemongrass stalks is not for the chicken-hearted. The

chicken mince packs a walloping amount of green chillies and then some red chilli flakes, and you realize that the orange reduction is not for decoration, but the only way to eat the meat. HO-HUM DRINKS To wash down these spicy flavours, we opted some tea-infused drinks from Radhika's Teas. We were informed that the Mulberry Green Tea (INR 120) had several health benefits, and the Lavender Infusion (INR 144) had a soothing aroma – but it did not find favor with us, probably because there was too much ice in both for us to discern these qualities. The Butterfly Blue

Fenny G and Friends transforms The Little Door from a bar to an artsy hub during the daytime. You can eat, shop, eat, in loop mode, at your own leisurely pace.

y s m Has A New i h W Address 16

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

REVIEWS - MUMBAI

Pea Flower Tea (INR 120) was our favorite of the trio of floral teas, and we were charmed by its bluegreen shades in the martini glass. The best was inadvertently saved for last, when the chef presented us with the Nutella Banana Pancake (INR 237) with crushed nuts on top. It was an absolute delight to dig into, and was finished even before the chef could explain the making of the dish! With a tasty meal in our systems, we had a peek at the exhibits and found some interesting, although non-existential, works of art. From intricately carved lead pencils to 24-karat gold plated chunky jewelry to ingenious Italian dining sets, there is a lot for those with a discerning eye for aesthetics. There are also unusually flavored chocolates from Bean Therapy including bars with chilli and black pepper. Right from the tasty food to the picturesque artefacts, Fenny G and Friends sure has opened the Little Door to a unique place within itself. Give it a go, we say!

Clockwise from top left: Watermeleon Feta Salad, Stuffed Chicken Roulade, Nutella Banana Pancake

The Jalapeno Potato Burger (INR 327) was presented Hrishikesh Thakkar rather fancily with crispy potato wedges and burnt garlic aioli on the side.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

Price: INR 2000++ (per person) Address: B 31, Ground Floor, Shree Siddhivinayak Plaza, Andheri West, Mumbai Phones: +91 9920983836 17

REVIEWS - BANGALORE

Desserts Have The Floor

When

have visited ALiLA Bangalore a few times in the last couple years, but always at night. I decided to check out the Sunday brunch, which I had heard was very popular with Whitefield residents, and which included a dip in the pool. Though not that many floors up, the beautiful pool presents a relaxing sight. When it isn’t raining, people tend to sit poolside for brunch, unless the sun is a tad sharp, which is what happened to us. The space where the brunch is set up is quite large and you can sit near the spread, or by the Pasha Bar, where you can enjoy a view of the city in the distance and lush fields by a lake. Calling our meal a Sunday brunch is a misnomer, since the feasting goes on from about noon until after 4pm. There is a big room set up for the kids, under supervision

of hotel staff, and an artist to do tattoos/balloons and such. So, if you have little ones, they have their own entertainment and selection of foods that will appeal to them while you enjoy a cocktail or beer. From previous experience, I realized that the flavors of some of ALiLA’s cocktails don’t always gel. I stuck to a nice Earl Grey Iced Tea after partaking of a too spicy Lemongrass and Chilli vodka muddled drink. The Pomegranate Martini that came to the table was quite decent – I think it just comes down to luck with one’s cocktail choice! PERFECT BRUNCH FOOD The menu is a mix of made-toorder and served-on-the-table items as well as a buffet spread. The dessert spread looked very inviting, and after all those hours of eating, we realized that it had been the best part of the afternoon! But first, some of the highlights from our meal.

The Sunday brunch at ALiLA Bangalore is a nice way to spend a leisurely afternoon and hang out in the pool, while the kids have a separate room where they are entertained and served foods that will appeal to their palates. Egg Benedict (on a brioche rather than an English muffin) leaped out at us from the menu, and what arrived at our table is the best version of this very favorite brunch item that I’ve eaten for the longest while – I plan to try the Eggs Florentine the next time around. The Choco Chip Waffles made for an inviting picture, while the Tomato Olive Bruschetta was to our liking too. CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

REVIEWS - BANGALORE

The bread loaves were wrapped in cloth and left for people to slice; while there were also slices for those who did not want to make the effort.

Searching for the in-house cold cuts, grilled meats and salads, which is worth sampling at ALiLA spreads, we tried beef, chicken and prawn skewers with different marinades. However, since the meats were not marinated, but were rather doused in one’s preferred sauce and then grilled. The flavors were on the surface and did not meld with the meats. We also sampled some freshly baked breads, including Ciabatta and Fruit Loaf. I liked that the loaves were wrapped in cloth and left for people to slice (there were also slices for those who did not want to make the effort). One concern we had was that there were insects buzzing about around the open items – but since this is an open-air affair, it’s unclear how it can be addressed. DESSERTS DIVINE There were egg and pasta live stations and an assortment of Indian and Chinese mains kept heated. Truth be told, we stuck to the fresh stuff, but the variety is there, for those who want it. Of course, we ended with loaded plates of dessert. The Indian and Western selections were both top notch. The Fudgy Chocolate Skewers tasted deliCaLDRON Magazine September 2014

cious, the Brandied Fruit Pudding was reminiscent of an Xmas pudding, the cutely named Passionate Lemon Meringue Tart was the perfect tart that makes the mouth pucker and had I found some place in my tummy I would have eaten a second one! The assortment of pastries tasted fantastic, while the Kala Jamun and Shahi Tukda were better than the ones usually adorning a buffet table. While we were happy with

almost all we ate, my dining companion and I decided that on this day, the desserts had the floor! Natasha Ali

Price: INR 1500++ (per person, no alcohol) 2300++ (per person, with alcohol) Address: #100/6, HAL-Varthur Main Road, Whitefield, Bangalore – 560066 Phones: 080-71544444, 28544444 19

REVIEWS - BANGALORE

ports bars donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enthuse me. Noisy places, they have big screen TVs showing various games while patrons get drunk and cheer or boo at these screens; not places I generally associate with good food, much less great food. Moreover, I was not keen on braving Saturday evening traffic to Phoenix Market City Mall in Whitefield. After much hesitation, I lassoed a friend along for a Saturday night to check out United. We were definitely not prepared

The menu at The United Sports Bar & Grill, while heavily featuring appetizers and bar type food including burgers and pizzas, presents what could be pedestrian fare with a twist and finesse that is quite impressive.

Checks

In All The Boxes for supremely fun evening or the quality and innovative food and drink making a regular appearance at our table! COMFORT FOOD WITH FINESSE The menu, while heavily featuring appetizers and bar type food including burgers and pizzas, presented what could be pedestrian fare with a twist and impressive finesse. Befitting a sports bar, the drinks menu is extensive and with enough innovation to be happening and inspire revisits from those who want more than just a beer or three.

United Sports Bar & Grill is the renewed avatar of Manchester United Cafe, minus the Man-U tag. Sports memorabilia line the brick walls while a pool table and expected TV screens are omnipresent as is a DJ spinning good tunes to keep you happy. The revamped menu aims no longer to entice just thirsty sports enthusiasts, but also caters to families, working professionals and based on what we ate that night, people serious about their food! The al fresco seating is for those who want to people-watch, while there are lovely booths as well as bar stool style chairs and tables inside, apart from the usual seating.

We settled ourselves snugly into a booth, and watched as the place filled up over the next couple of hours, while we steadily made our way through a different starters and drinks. When we visited, two food festivals were in progress on sizzlers and Dim Sums, with five different combos (two types in one order) to choose from. What you got was a steaming bamboo basket of delicious Dim Sum with perfectly Asian flavors. A GAMBLE THAT PAID OFF Taking a gamble, I ordered the Lipsmacker (INR 425), which was scallops and Shitake dumplings

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

along with coriander and prawn dumplings. Since we polished those off in very short order, our next request was for the Heavenly Prawns (INR 425), which combination featured chive and prawn dumplings alongside prawn and crab meat. It was only the thought that we needed to sample more than this festival’s offering that got us to move on to the next round. To accompany our food, we enjoyed a bevy of flavored martinis,

The Lemon Drop Martini (INR 375), Watermelon Margarita (INR 450) and Pineapple and Bell Pepper Margarita (INR 450) remain in my mind, alongside the potent and must-try United 11, the ‘mother of LIITs’ with 11 spirits. CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

margaritas and mojitos. The drinks had balanced flavors and pretty presentations. The Lemon Drop Martini (INR 375), Watermelon Margarita (INR 450) and Pineapple and Bell Pepper Margarita (INR 450) remain in my mind, alongside the potent and must-try United 11, the ‘mother of LIITs’ with 11 spirits. It came in a tall glass, in pink hues, but don’t let the color fool you! My friend also enjoyed a special recommendation by the bar manager, a coffee and rum drink that tasted much fancier and more expensive that what went into it – which is the point, I think! Of the starters we tried, don’t miss the Curry Leaf Fish Tikka with moist and seasoned fish chunks that work really well with a cocktail. The Indonesian Chicken Satay with Tamarind Infused Peanut Butter Sauce (INR 375) took me

back to my Ayam Satay eating days in Jakarta, while the Grilled Mushroom Caps platter was possibly the best mushroom appetizer I’ve eaten in a long time – garlicky and with not a hint of batter in sight! The Chocolate Volcano (INR 300) is the dessert to end on at United, and we did so with great relish! I enjoyed myself and the food and drink so much, that I’m willing to hike it back to Whitefield to do so again, as long as I can find another friend to accompany me! Natasha Ali

Price: INR 2000++ (meal for two) Address: Phoenix Market City Mall, Whitefield, Bangalore Phones: 080-67266661, 67266662 21

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CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

It came, it saw, but it failed to conquer. That is the story of degustation menus in India â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a fad that many chefs banked on. But this trend has failed to click with the masses, though a few restaurants believe that a certain class appreciates it well enough.

Degustation:

Down, But Not Out?

f you have watched enough MasterChef television series, you will have heard the judges discuss degustation menus of some of the guest chefs visiting the sets. Later on, fashionable restaurants globally started offering degustation menus for their discerning clientele. To the layman this term of French origin sound-

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

ed fanciful and conjured images of impressive dishes. Spectacular though it may sound, degustation is just a culinary term to describe sampling portions of a chef 's signature dishes during one sitting. Early in 2013, Indian chefs too decided that they needed to feature degustation menus in their

fine dine eateries to add a bit of drama on the table. Chef Sandeep Pawar of The Metropolitan Hotel and Spa prefers to call it a culinary safari designed to excite and thrill, course after course, with its own high and lows. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Usually consisting of eight or more courses, it can go up to 23

cover feature twenty courses and more and it may also be accompanied by a matching wine degustation that complements each or most of the dishes,” explains Chef Sujan Sarkar of Olive Bar and Kitchen. THE RISE OF DEGUSTATION The concept of degustation took roots in fine dine and Michelin-starred restaurants like El Bulli, Il Palagio and later spread to cities like New York, London and Sydney. It helped chefs showcase their signature dishes at one seating, and even do the plating in full view of their guests. “While partaking of a degustation menu, the guest actually knows what food is coming, but is not aware in what form it will be served. This heightens the excitement, and the anticipation keeps growing course after course” - Sandeep Pawar, Executive Chef, The Metropolitan Hotel and Spa

“After El Bulli’s degustation menu got famous, most leading restaurants in the world only offer chef ’s tasting menu or degustation menu. For instance, Spain’s El Celler De Can Roca does a 19-course tasting menu, and Alinea Restaurant in Chicago has a 12-course and a 24-course menu. Other progressive restaurants like Gaggan at Bangkok and Fat Duck in London offer similar menus,” points out Chef Sujan. Chef Joshua D’Souza of Silverspoon Gourmet Culinary Studio adds the name of Tang in Dubai, which uses air, foam and vegetable caviars in their molecular cuisine degustation menu. He dds that a degustation menu refers to a sampling of an array of small dishes served one after the other, where you savour food with all the senses, by appreciating each ingredient and the chef ’s technical skills in bringing its inherent flavor. “These menus would often be paired with an array of select wines in the menu, which would make the meal an expensive affair,” he says.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

cover feature form it will be served. This heightens the excitement, and the anticipation keeps growing course after course,” he explains. Initially, this concept grabbed guests’ attention because they could try most of the chef ’s signature dishes at one go, especially with the more adventurous and epicurean clientele. “The downside of this concept is that it only works in high-end restaurants because its elaborate and needs better infrastructure, skilled manpower, consistency of standards,” adds Chef Sujan. “These menus would often be paired with an array of select wines in the menu, which would make the meal an expensive affair” - Chef Joshua D’Souza of Silverspoon Gourmet Culinary Studio

Chef Sandeep adds that this meal is more an experience, than something to fill the tummy. “While partaking of a degustation menu, the guest actually knows what food is coming, but is not aware in what

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

THE INDIAN ANGLE Several Indian restaurants dabbled in degustation menus, as dining out has become an indulgent experience. Besides Caperberry in Bangalore, Indian Accent, Smokehouse Room and Olive at Qutub in New Delhi as well as Ziya at Oberoi, Zodiac Grill and Masala Library in Mumbai. Chef Saurabh Udinia, Chef de Cuisine of Massive Restaurants claims that the response to

these places is huge. “Take the case of Masala Library; it is booked at least two weeks in advance. It is astonishing to see Indians, who generally hate table reservation system, wait this long to dine at Masala Library,” he adds. Silverspoon Gourmet Kitchen Studio too currently creates a lot of degustation menu for their clients. Joshua believes that though Indians like hearty meals that offer value for money when they dine out, eventually they will appreciate this trend and try it out frequently. Saurabh also opines that value for money is not the criteria if one keeps the variety and quality offered in mind. “The degustation menu prices in India are way lesser as compared with the western world,” he points out. GUESTS’ TAKE Not all guests share Joshua’s and Saurabh’s optimism about this trend. Bangalore-based Jaya Patnaik, who frequents tony restaurants regularly, lays the failure of

Pumpkin cracker with goat cheese mousse - recipe on previous page.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

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PUMPKIN CRACKER WITH GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE Serves: 2 • Preparation time: 4 hours • Assembly time: 10 minutes

Pumpkin Crackers Ingredients: • 700 gm flour • 200 gm butter • 20 gm salt

• 300 gm pumpkin puree • 3 drops edible yellow color • 80 gm pumpkin seeds

• 150 ml water

Method: 1. In a bowl, mix flour, butter, salt, pumpkin puree, yellow color and water. Knead it for 10-12 minutes till you have a soft dough. 2. Let it rest for 5 minutes. 3. Roll thin sheets of this dough, sprinkle pumpkin seeds and roll again. 4. Cut into desired shapes with a cookie cutter. 5. Preheat an oven to 150°C. 6. Bake these in a preheated oven for 1 hour. 7. Take out and let it cool. Store in airtight container and serve at room temperature.

Green Apple and Cucumber Water Ingredients: • 1 green apple • 1 cucumber

• 2 gm malice acid • Salt, to taste

Method: 1. Deseed apple and cucumber and roughly chop both. 2. Put it in a juicer to extract juice. Pass this through a fine strainer. 3. Add malice acid and salt to the water and store in a refrigerator.

Black Olive Powder and Tomato Petals Ingredients: • 50 gm good quality deseeded black

olives

• 1 tomato

Method: 1. Chop black olives into small pieces. Dry it in a food dehydrator for six hours at 65°C. 2. Powder it in a food processor and store it in an airtight container. 3. Remove the skin and seeds of the tomato. 4. Dry it under light for 4 hours.

Assembling the Dish Ingredients: • 2 pumpkin crackers • 10 gm soft goat cheese

• 2 gm tomato petals • 1 gm black pepper powder

• 1 gm black olive powder • 20 ml cucumber and green apple water

Method: 1. Take a pumpkin cracker and spread soft goat cheese on top. 2. Arrange chopped tomato petals on it. 3. Sprinkle black pepper and olive powder and serve immediately with cucumber and green apple water. Recipe courtesy: Chef Sujan Sarkar, Olive Bar & Kitchen

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

Photo on next page.

cover feature this concept on the doors of everyone getting into the act. “Earlier, only exclusive establishments featured degustation menus, making it an experience to be cherished. Soon, as customers became curious about it, restaurant owners of every genre tried to cash in on the trend and tried dumping all types of exotic food in the menu with a high price tag,” she explained. Today, if she wants to try something new, she informs the chef before hand and in most cases, her wish is accommodated. “The Masala Library is booked at least two weeks in advance. It is astonishing to see Indians, who generally hate table reservation system, wait this long to dine at Masala Library” - Saurabh Udinia, Chef de Cuisine of Massive Restaurants

Sushant Grover from Gurgaon adds that many Indian restaurants did not know how to execute a degustation menu, leading to its premature decline. “At a fine dine

New Delhi restaurant, which announced their degustation menu prominently, the gap between the courses was around 20 minutes. If it is a 10-course dinner, just imagine how long that meal would take and how weary you would be at the end of it,” he lamented. Unsurprisingly, many restaurants have dropped the degustation menu or have rephrased it to small plates, or tasting portions – something that the layperson can relate to better. Could this mean that degustation is the latest casualty in the fine-dining scene? Vinita Bhatia

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

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SARSON KI GALAWAT WITH CORN AND CHEESE TOSTADAS WITH CHAAS SPHERES Serves: 4 • Preparation time: 30 minutes • Assembly time: 30 minutes

Main Dish

Ingredients: • 200 gm saag • 50 gm spinach paste • 2 tbsp coriander seeds, crushed • 1 tsp cumin seeds

• • • •

3 tsp gm achaar masala 15 gm desi ghee 2 tsp ginger garlic paste 25 gm channa powder

• • • •

Salt, to taste 60 gm refined flour dough 30 gm corn, chopped 1 tsp coriander leaves, chopped

Method: 1. Heat ghee in a pan. Add coriander seeds and cumin seeds. 2. Once they sputter, add saag and spinach and cook on slow flame for a few minutes. 3. Add achar masala and salt. Keep the mixture aside to cool. 4. Add roasted chana powder for binding and make small patties. 5. Cook the Sarson Ki Gilawat on hot griddle to form a crust on Gilawat. 6. For Corn Tostadas, mix coriander and chopped corn and stuff inside small dough to make tostada.

Chaas Spheres

Ingredients: • 100 gm thick yoghurt • 1 tsp ginger, chopped • 1 tsp green chillies, chopped

• Salt, to taste • A pinch of roasted cumin seeds, crushed

• 5 gm sodium alignate • 1 ltr distilled water

Method: 1. Blend sodium alginate and water in a blender and rest overnight. 2. The next day, whisk the remainder ingredients in a bowl. Adjust seasoning and strain using a mesh sieve. 3. Using a teaspoon, pour the chaas mixture into the alginate bath carefully. 4. Leave the spheres in the bath for 1 minute, remove carefully and rinse in fresh water bath. 5. Serve it, as required, with Sarson Ki Gilawat and corn tostadas. Recipe courtesy: Chef Saurabh Udinia, Chef De Cuisine, Massive Restaurants

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

kitchen kin

A Transformative View Of

Japanese Food Traditional Japanese cuisine is given a sophisticated twist at the two Michelin star Tenku RyuGin restaurant in Hong Kong under the watchful eyes of Chef De Cuisine, Hideaki Sato. He offers culinary innovation on a platter to discerning diners, highlighting the natural flavors of ingredients with some help from molecular gastronomy.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

kitchen kin

ideaki Sato has something on his mind. He wants to serve traditional Japanese food but in a grand setting, while also adding a contemporary touch to the dishes to make them part of a memorable dining experience. What’s more, he has managed to do it. Walk into the two Michelin Star Tenku RyuGin, which is also amongst Hong Kong’s posh restaurants, and you can order from the

haute new version of Japanese cuisine, also called kaiseki – unknown dishes that its Chef De Cuisine, Hideaki Sato, has managed to give an exotic twist to.

be used in the dish. While some might label this as an ostentatious and obsessive trait, Hideaki prefers to describe it as paying extremely close attention to ingredients.

The Japanese cognoscenti have already given this restaurant a thumbs-up because each morsel is flawless and reminiscent of the food they get back in Japan. The reason behind this is that every ingredient is sourced from the country of origin and is personally approved by the chef before it can

“We often use local and western ingredients, but ours customer appreciate Japanese ingredients more. I believe that the pure taste of the ingredient is most powerful and memorable to any person. I always try to bring out the pure taste, so I choose simple ways of cooking and presentation,” he adds.

Black Egg Custard

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

kitchen kin It is this dedication to detail that has made Hideaki Sato become one of the chefs to watch out for. He has participated in leading global culinary events such as ‘Volant des Chefs 2013’ and ‘Omnivore World Tour 2014’ in France and was also a part of the 15th Annual World Gourmet Festival at Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok. LEARNING THE BASICS OF JAPANESE CUISINE Born in 1976 in the mountainous Nagano prefecture of Japan, Hideaki spent his childhood in nature’s lap exploring the rivers, waterfalls and forests near his home. After his schooling he decided that he wanted to see the big world out

there and figured that the best way to do that was to become a chef. That way, he could easily fit into any country and not worry about going hungry! He chose French cuisine as his specialty because it was so unlike his native food and also because it embodied fine dining; another thing that was entirely removed from the rustic Chabu cooking style that he grew up eating. “Choosing French cuisine for my specialization was also logical as there were not too many French restaurants in the country. Also, I found it easier to understand the method of western cuisine back then,” says Hideaki. Before he hit 25 years of age,

Hideaki had received his diploma in professional sommellerie and soon became the executive chef of a French restaurant situated in Nagano prefecture. He also worked in the kitchens of the famous ‘Hermitage de Tamura’ French restaurant in Karuizawa between 2003 to 2008, where he later graduated to becoming the head chef. His life changed when he got the opportunity to intern as an exchange chef at Tokyo’s Nihonryori RyuGin, one of Japan’s premier restaurants. There he watched the restaurant’s famous founder-chef, Seiji Yamamoto, whose approach to cooking went beyond the ordinary. Seiji once demanded that an

PEACH CANDY

Chef Hideaki Sato fills this peach candy with powder ice cream and serves it with some hot peach jam. Ingredients: For Peach Powder Ice Cream • 172gm fresh white peach • 30gm white sugar • 53gm yogurt • 2gm peach liquor • 4gm gelatin

For Peach Jam • 375 gm peach • 75gm Cusson Peach Aroma syrup • 9 gm Kuzko (Arrow root scratch) • 5.4 gm peach liquor

For Peach Syrup • 375 gm water • 84 gm sugar • 7 gm lemon

Method: For Peach Ice Mix 1. Mix all ingredients in a pot. Heat on a medium flame for some time. 2. Put the mixture in an Espuma bottle, then squeeze into liquid nitrogen until it freezes. 3. Blend it in a food processor. For Peach Jam 4. Mix all ingredients in a pan. 5. Heat till it solidifies a little. Take it off the heat and let it cool. For Peach Syrup 6. Mix all ingredients in a pan. 7. Heat till it the mixture thickens and gets one-thread consistency. Serving 8. For serving, break the powder ice cream in candy. Place the hot peach jam over the candy. Pour syrup around it. Recipe courtesy: Chef Hideaki Sato

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

kitchen kin

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

kitchen kin eel be sent for an MRI because he wanted to understand its anatomy better and figure out different ways to cook it! So impressed was Hideaki by Seiji’s style of merging the rigid kaiseki fare with revolutionary molecular gastronomy methods, that he decided to join Ryugin’s team in 2009. Soon he impressed Chef Seiji enough with his own culinary skills to help the latter design Japan Airlines’ first class in-flight meals. Later, Chef Seiji entrusted Hideaki to helm the kitchen when Ryugin opened its first international restaurant, Tenku Ryugin, in Hong Kong. That Hideaki has more than fulfilled this brief is evident from the fact that the restaurant has already got two Michelin stars

and seasonal. “These three words under its belt and Tenku RyuGin continues to be the place to be seen describe my cuisine best, as well as Japanese cuisine. All ingredients dining at in Hong Kong. have their peak season in which their tastes and flavours are the FOOD PHILOSOPHY While Japanese cuisine is simple in most powerful and therefore more unforgettable,” he points out. nature, when melded with molecular gastronomy techniques, every While the critics might vote that ingredient’s deceptively simple Hideaki’s culinary creations, like flavor is heightened. However, Chef Seiji does not believe in exthe Candy Peach or Sukiyaki, are perimenting with elaborate prepa- gastronomic perfection, he believes that he has a lot more to learn. He rations in a bid to stand apart. “I wants to present Japan’s culinary believe the pure taste of ingreditraditions and ingredients, and up ents is the most memorable and impressive. Too much preparation the ante of their acceptance by using modern-day techniques – all in and decoration alienates customers from that experience,” Hideaki a sophisticated fine dining setting. adds. Vinita Bhatia This is in sync with his own cooking philosophy, which is based on three words – pure, simple

While the critics might vote that Hideaki Sato’s culinary creations, like the Sukiyaki, are gastronomic perfection, he believes that he has a lot more to learn.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

kitchen kin

Seiji once demanded that an eel be sent for an MRI because he wanted to understand its anatomy better and figure out different ways to cook it!

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

culinary flavors

Salvation In The Form Of Food

Religion, rituals and food – this is the holy trifecta of Benaras. Unknown to most, this sacred city is also home to the special Muslim Gharana cuisine, which is very different from its Awadhi counterpart.

he holy city of Benaras is sacred to most Hindus. Situated on the banks of River Ganga, piety is a commodity that exchanges hands everywhere, whether it is at the ghats where funeral pyres burn day and night, or at temples were every puja is accompanied to the sounds of cymbals clashing together in orchestrated cacophony. Navigating the streets of Benaras, or Varanasi as it was once called, is no easy task. Cows amble languorously while motorists dexterously avoid dashing into pedestrians, who in turn are blissfully unaware about their escape from imminent disaster. All because they are

too engrossed wolfing down Gol Guppas or Dahi Bhallas sold by the many street sellers dotting the cityscape! This is proof that just like any other Indian city, the people of Benaras too have a great appetite for good food. However, did you know that the predominantly Hindu city of Benaras has a strong Muslim influence that extends itself not just to local professions but also the regional cuisine? Hard as it is to believe, one third of Benaras’ population is Muslim, most of whom are traditionally involved in the business of weaving, carpet making and cooking.

THE MUSLIM INFLUENCE Muslims came to Benares in the 12th century during the reign of the Delhi Sultanate, when Mughals ruled a major part of northern India. In the 16th century, Emperor Akbar helped the city regain its position as an intellectual hub. As more people visited Benaras to gain knowledge, the local cuisine evolved to accommodate the dietary preferences of Mughals, Awadhis, Hindus and East Bengali travellers. Benarasi cuisine has two major components – the Shudh Satvik Brahmin food eaten by devout Hindus and the meat-dominated Muslim Gharana fare. The latter, CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

culinary flavors

In what is a significant departure from the Muslim culinary tradition, Gharana breakfast menus exclude meat to include dishes like Benarasi Kachori Bhaji, Channa Ghughani and Jalebi with Kullad Chai.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

culinary flavors

Biryani, ready to be served. The layers of meat are always hidden under layers of rice.

which is an offshoot of Moghlai cuisine, consists of several meat and rice preparations like Kebab, Kofta, Korma, Kheema, Pulao, Biryani, Parathas, Halwa, Firni, etc.

give it a distinctive aroma, rather than opting for the potli style (tying spices in muslin pouches), which is synonymous with Awadhi cooking.

Traditionally served in metal or ceramic crockery, diners would sit on the floor of an ornate dastarkhwan and use their fingers to polish off their meal of dishes like Gosht Biryani, Shammi Kebab, Haleem, Kheema Matar, Harey Dhaniya Mirch Ka Murg, Kanthal Ki Sabji and various home-styled chutneys of fresh produce.

Though spicy, the Benarasi Muslim cuisine has a lighter note when compared to its richer Awadhi counterpart. In fact, the Awadhi cooking styleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s importance is evident in this cuisine where the gravies are usually tomato and onion-based. But the local palate has equally inspired the cooking pattern at large. While rice-based dishes are usually cooked in the Dum style, gravies get the Yakhni treatment and are cooked with churned yoghurt and spices.

LIVING IN HARMONY The hallmark of this food is its rusticity in preparation and presentation, involving the use of fresh ingredients. Spices are freshly pounded to make masalas that are infused directly into the food to 38

Over the years, the Gharana cuisine has considerately reduced the inclusion of meat into its dishes, CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

culinary flavors

Harey Dhaniya Mirch Ka Murg Serves: 2 • Preparation time: 20 minutes • Assembly time: 20 minutes

Ingredients: • 50 ml refined oil • 30 gm ginger garlic paste • 500 gm chicken, in curry cut pieces • 500 gm fresh coriander leaves,

chopped • 25 gm green chilli, chopped • 1 tsp cumin seeds • 150 gm curd, beaten well

• Salt, to taste • 50 gm butter

Method: 1. Heat oil in a pan. Add ginger garlic paste to it and sauté. 2. Add chicken and mix well. Cover the pan and simmer on medium flame till chicken is half cooked. Set aside. 3. Puree fresh green coriander root and green chilli with adding to a smooth paste consistency. 4. Heat oil in another pan. Add cumin seeds. Once they sputter, add the coriander puree and cook it properly. Check the seasoning. 5. Add the sautéed chicken to it along with beaten curd. Let it simmer for some time. 6. Finish with butter and serve hot. Recipe courtesy: Anup Gupta, Executive Chef, The Gateway Hotel Ganges Varanasi

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

culinary flavors

DAL DHUAN

Serves: 2 • Preparation time: 20 minutes • Assembly time: 30 minutes Ingredients: • 250 gm whole green moong • 20 gm green chili, chopped • ½ tsp turmeric powder • 1 ½ tbsp garlic, chopped • 1 tbsp ginger, chopped • 2 medium tomatoes, chopped

• • • • •

¼ tsp asafetida Salt , to taste 2 tbsp ghee ½ tsp cumin seeds 2 medium onions, chopped

For Dhunwar (Process of infusing the flavours from smoke) • 1 pc live charcoal • 5-6 cloves • 1 tbsp fried brown onion • 1 tbsp ghee

Method: 1. Clean and wash green whole moong dal. Boil or pressure cook it in enough water and some salt, until fully cooked. 2. In another pan, heat ghee. Add asafetida, cumin seeds and turmeric powder and mix well. Add garlic and ginger and sauté till the garlic is brown. 3. Add onion, green chili and tomato to this and mix well. Let it cook till oil starts leaving the tomatoes. 4. Add the boiled dal and simmer till the spices are well infused. 5. Pour the dal in a handi and cover. 6. Heat the coal piece. Take a small heatproof bowl and place the coal in it. Top it with some cloves, brown onion and ghee. 7. Float it on top of the dal and cover the handi with the lid, so that the smoke is trapped within and the exotic flavours are infused in the dal. 8. Remove the bowl with the charcoal very carefully from the handi, before serving Dal Dhuan with garlic naan. Recipe courtesy: Anup Gupta, Executive Chef, The Gateway Hotel Ganges Varanasi

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

culinary flavors out of respect for Hindus who live cheek by jowl with Muslims in the crowded alleys of Benaras. In what is a significant departure from the Muslim culinary tradition, Gharana breakfast menus exclude meat to include dishes like Benarasi Kachori Bhaji, Channa Ghughani and Jalebi with Kullad Chai. So if you are fortunate enough to be the guest at a local Benaras Muslim home, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be surprised to find Shimla Mirch Masaley Ki Subzi, Lauki Ki Shammi, Suran Kebab, Dal Dhuan, Dum Biryani, Zarda Pulao, Shahi Tukda and Sheer Seviyan on the menu. It will be quite a revelation! One ingredient that is common to both Satvik and Gharana cuisine is desi ghee. Use of packaged ghee is frowned upon in most Benaras kitchens, where the ladies of the house either churn the ghee them-

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

selves or procure it from their milk vendor. Another interesting fact is that saffron, which is the spice of choice in most Muslim delicacies, is missing from non-vegetarian Gharana preparations, though it is used without restraint in desserts and sweetmeats. If you wish to savor this hitherto unknown cuisine in Benaras, your best bet would be to check out the smaller dhabas found in the Dal Mandi, Madanpura and Mehmoorgaj pockets of the city. However, if dining at a dhaba is not your thing, head to The Gateway Hotel Ganges at Varanasi, which specializes in Gharana cuisine. A taste will explode every theory you have harbored about Muslim cuisine. Anup Gupta Executive Chef The Gateway Hotel Ganges Varanasi

Traditional dish for Eid al-Adha. Almost always made with read meat pot-roasted for long hours with spices.

know your food

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

know your food

Sausage

For Every Palate Grease it, grill it, gobble it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is that how you have been eating your sausages? Chances are, you have been eating it all wrong, especially according to the Germans.

he Germans take their sausage and beer seriously. You do not want to walk into a pub in Germany and ask for sausages to accompany your pint without being specific whether you want a Bockwrust or Bratwurst (yes, these are not typos and these sausages are entirely different in taste, appearance and texture). The Germans can make a sausage from almost every part of the animal that has contributed its meat to this steak in a tube, which

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

probably explains why the country is home to over 500 varieties of sausages. German Charcuterie Chef Hans Hartman explains why his countrymen are so obsessed about sausages and accord it the reverence that he admits it truly deserves. TEXTURE MATTERS The most important thing about a sausage is its texture. It should be succulent and tender with a fine balance of the seasoning. This is where the choice of meat is critical while making sausages. If too

much lean meat is used, then the sausage will lose its juiciness and tenderness. Describing the sausage-making process, Hans states that traditionally charcuteries would get the entire animal from a butcher and then choose the cuts for the sausages. The rest of the animal would be cured, smoked and kept aside for other use. For the sausages, the charcuterie would finely mince appropriate portions of fat and meat in small 43

know your food batches and then add the required seasoning and flavors. “Making the sausages in small batches helped them correct any error in taste and texture before proceeding to make the next lot,” Hans states, adding that these would then be stuffed into natural casings from sheep’s intestines. However, most of these companies usually use mechanical food processors to grind the meat, which is why it lacks a distinctive texture and flavor. Additionally, these are machine wrapped into synthetic casing giving it a homogenous taste, lacking a characteristic flavor.

COOK ‘EM RIGHT Most people presume that all sausages should be grilled and eaten. That is not necessarily the case. According to Hans, the best way to cook sausages is definitely by grilling them, but one should poach them first before grilling. Poaching retains the water content of the meat and melts the fat within. When this sausage is grilled, it cooks in this internal fat from the inside out. Also, it is best to understand the water content in a particular type of sausage before deciding how to cook it. For instance, a Frankfurter should be boiled first and then

grilled, while the Munchner Weisswurst should simply be poached and eaten. Chorizo, Bratwurst, Andouille and Bockwurst do not need any special treatment and can be grilled and eaten with some mustard sauce, pickles, potato and sauerkraut. ALWAYS GO FRESH Most people pick up sausages without wondering what goes into them. Hans reveals that the packaged sausages usually have less of the real meat and more of mechanically recovered meat, which includes the animal’s offal, as well as preservatives and additives to keep them fresh and avoid

KNOW YOUR SAUSAGE

Frankfurter Origin: Germany Characteristics: This is the most common pre-cooked sausage that is popular in countries like USA and Canada, where it is often used in hot dogs. Since 1929, the Frankfurter Wuerstchen could be produced only within a 50 km radius of Frankfurt. Meat from a pig’s leg or shoulder is mixed with natural spices, salt and carefully smoked till it gets a golden brown colour and is then cooked in simmering water (78°C).

Beef Chorizo Origin: Spain Characteristics: The Spanish monks devised this sausage in the 16th century by mixing coarsely ground beef sausage with garlic, paprika and other spices, which is the reason behind its characteristic reddish colour. This should be cooked in simmering water and then grilled. Munchner Weisswurst Origin: Germany Characteristics: German for ‘White 44

Sausage’, Weisswurst is a delicate sausage made with veal, cream and eggs. It should be boiled and served with meat stock.

Fine Bratwurst Origin: Germany Characteristics: Made of pork and veal, this sausage is seasoned with a variety of spices including ginger, nutmeg, coriander or caraway. Though it is now available pre-cooked, Bratwurst is generally found fresh and must be well grilled or sautéed before eating. Thueringer Bratwurst Origin: Germany Characteristics: Invented in 1613 in Thueringian, this sausage is made of 70% coarse pork meat and 30% fine Bratwurst emulsion. It is spiced with marjoram, caraway seeds, garlic and salt and cooked in simmering water at 72°C and then packed in sheep’s casing. It can be eaten cold placed within a bread roll with mustard and potato salad or can be served with French fries and green salad.

Andouille Origin: French Characteristics: A spicy, smoked sausage made from pork chitterlings and tripe, Andouille sausage is characteristic of Cajun cuisine, where it is featured in traditional dishes such as Gumbo and Jambalaya. Bockwurst Origin: Germany Characteristics: Invented in 1889 in Berlin, it is made of ground pork meat and backfat that are mixed with fine emulsions and then flavoured with chopped parsley and chives, spices and natural salt. After smoking it, it is cooked in simmering water at 78°C, before being packed in sheep or pork casing. Generally sold raw, this sausage must be well cooked and is best enjoyed with a piece of brown bread, mustard, or potatoes, French fries or green salad. Hans Hartmann Charcuterie Chef

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

know your food

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

know your food discoloration. It is better to build a good relation with your butcher and ask him to procure fresh sausages for you, rather than have to pick the packaged variety. “However, if you must buy it, then check carefully before purchase. If the sausage is slimy, it has passed its use-by date,” adds Hans. The good news is that establishments like Sofitel Mumbai BKC now offer fresh sausages made in-

house. Bite into one of them and you will immediately know what you have been missing all these years. “Hans has trained our staff at Sofitel to make sausages from scratch and this is now available for purchase at the hotel. We plan to tie up with a distribution partner to make it available pan-India,” reveals Chef Indrajit Saha, Executive Chef of Sofitel Mumbai BKC.

Hopefully, other establishments will follow this example and customers will get the bang on their buck when they purchase their bangers! Vinita Bhatia

Sauerkraut and Potato Salad The two steadfast companions of any sausage.

SAUERKRAUT

Serves: 4 • Preparation time: 15 minutes • Assembly time: 15 minutes

Ingredients: • 7.5 ml oil • 125 gm bacon, chopped • 250 gm onion, chopped

• 12.5 gm Juniper berries • 1 kg cabbage, chopped • Salt, to taste

• 30ml white wine vinegar • 40ml white vinegar

Method: 1. In a deep bottomed pan, heat oil. 2. Add the bacon and onion and sauté for a few minutes. 3. Add the berries and cabbage. Season with salt. 4. Cover the pan with a lid and cook on low flame. 5. After the cabbage is cooked, add the white wine vinegar and white vinegar.

POTATO SALAD

Serves: 4 • Preparation time: 15 minutes • Assembly time: 25 minutes

Ingredients: • 500 gm potatoes, chopped in large pieces • 1 tbsp ground mustard • 2.5 gm parsley

• • • •

15 gm bacon, chopped 1 onion, chopped 1 gherkin, chopped 5-6 garlic cloves, chopped

• 5 ml oil • Salt, to taste

Method: 1. Preheat oven to 180°C. Bake the potatoes in this preheated oven for 20 minutes. Let it cool and then skin the potatoes. 2. Heat oil in a deep bottomed pan. Add garlic and bacon and sauté on medium flame for a few minutes. 3. Add onion and sauté till it turns translucent. 4. Add the potatoes and gherkin and mix well. 5. Add parsley, mustard and salt and adjust the seasoning to your taste.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

know your food

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

myth buster

Kebabs have tantalized the tastebuds of generations of people the world over and its lucre is still strong. You can have it as nibbles or stuff it into a roti or use it as filling for a sandwich. The options are limitless, once you get over some misconceptions about these tiny bites of bliss.

he world loves kebabs, there is no denying that. After all, who can resist some tender grilled meat covered with spices that exude an enticing aroma that just demands to be savored? Not many, we can bet! What is even more interesting about kebabs is that they canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be associated with a single country or culture. Their culinary influence spans from the Middle East to India to North Africa and the Mediterranean. Moreover, though the popular notion is that kebabs are synonymous with spitted meat, the truth is that one can make mouth watering kebabs from vegetables and dairy products too.

Ajay Chopra, Executive Chef of the Westin Mumbai Garden City debunks this and other myths about these wonderful nibbles. Myth #1: You cannot cook kebabs without a sigree or tandoor. Reality: Kebabs can be made in numerous ways and by using different cooking methods. You can use a heavy-duty grill pan or skillet to make kebab or deep fry some variants like the Shammi Kebab. You can also use microwave ovens with convection and grill mode. I prefer an OTG (Oven Toaster & Grill) to a microwave, since the latterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s magnetic waves interfere with the moisture in the food making it dry and chewy.

Myth #2: Using anything other than a tandoor is compromising on its taste. Reality: This is more of a dilemma than a myth. Cooking kebabs in a tandoor will give it a smoky flavor, which cannot be replicated in an oven or on a skillet. While there is no denying that a Tandoori Chicken cooked in a microwave on convection mode might not taste the same as when it is cooked in a tandoor, both taste equally good. At the same time, if you use a cast iron skillet for a Galouti Kebab it will retain its authenticity since traditionally this is the cooking technique of the kebab. If you cook a Galouti Kebab in a tandoor it will lose its melt-in-the-mouth texture.

Heavenly Morsels 48

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

myth buster

Seekh kebabs are a great example of the need for correct ratios, without which, this kebab would slide off the seekh!

The most common mistake people make is either over-marination or under-marination of the kebab.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

Myth #3: Any marinade can be used for just about any kebab.

Myth #4: Marinate for a few minutes and cook the kebab. Simple.

Reality: Marinade is the most important element of a great tasting kebab other than its cooking technique. The most common mistake people make is either over-marination or under-marination of the kebab. People over-marinate thinking that it will give it more flavor and make the kebab softer. Actually, this only makes the kebab mushy, robbing it of its texture. On the other hand if you under-marinate the kebab it will have no flavor and the meat will be tough, dry and stringy.

Reality: On the contrary, it is important to marinate the kebabs twice. The first marinade is for exposing it to acid that penetrates the meat and makes it tender. For this, use ingredients like ginger and garlic with salt in the first marination, to allow the meat to have its own flavor. The second marinade is equally important as it defines the kind of flavor and spices that should infuse within the kebab. Vinita Bhatia with inputs from Chef Ajay Chopra

Kebabs without Borders

The sizzle of marinade dripping on hot coals, the heady scent of spices being grilled â&#x20AC;&#x201C; there is poetry in kebabs, if you pay close attention to it. As the monsoon gives way to chilly months, treat your family to an array of kebabs that are finger licking good! 50

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

recipe corner - kebabs

Rajma Ki Shammi

Iron-rich kidney beans can help slow down aging and are good for the heart. So why not make this nutritious appetizer, which is healthy to boot? Serves: 4 • Preparation time: 30 minutes • Cooking time: 30 minutes

Ingredients: • 500 gm rajma (red kidney beans) • 2-3 bay leaves • 10 gm black peppercorns • 15 gm jeera • 3 black cardamoms • 6 green cardamoms • 150 gm ghee • 20 gm Deggi chilli powder

• • • • •

Salt, as per taste Few strands saffron 40 gm roasted chana dal powder 10 gm jeera powder 10 tbsp ginger, chopp ed • 20 gm mint leaves, chopped

For Stuffing • 80 gm hung curd • Salt, to taste • 1 tsp ginger, chopped • 3 green chillies, chopped • Few mint leaves, chopped

Method: 1. Wash and soak the rajma overnight. 2. Next day, boil the rajma in a pressure cooker until well done. Mince it through a mincer and keep aside. 3. Make garam masala powder by grinding bay leaves, black peppercorns, jeera, cardamoms. 4. In a flat tray, put the mashed rajma. Add all spices with chana flour, chopped ginger, chopped mint leaves and half the ghee. 5. Rub the kebab mixture roughly by hand and check the seasoning. 6. Mix all the ingredients for the stuffing. 7. Divide the rajma mixture into small balls and place the stuffing. Close it to make medium-sized patties. 8. Heat ghee in a deep bottomed frying pan. Shallow fry the patties on both the sides. 9. Serve hot with mint chutney and thinly sliced onion rings seasoned with lime juice and chaat masala. Recipe courtesy: Chef Ajay Chopra / Image by Kunal Khanna

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

recipe corner - kebabs

Kalmi Kalander Kebab

Succulent, yet crispy, meat stuffed with spiced cheese – every bite of this kebab reveals a lovely surprise. Serves: 4 • Preparation time: 20 minutes • Cooking time: 20 minutes Ingredients: • 16 chicken drumsticks (without skin) • 2 tsp salt • 60 gm ginger garlic paste • 1 tsp yellow chilli powder • 20 ml lemon juice • 100 gm hung curd

• • • • •

80 ml mustard oil 1 tsp jeera powder 1 tsp Deggi mirch 10 gm mixed spice powder 2 tsp kebab masala powder

For Stuffing • 100 gm cheese batons • 8 gm green chilli • Butter

Method: 1. Clean and wash the chicken drumsticks on a clean chopping board. 2. Marinate first with salt, lemon juice and ginger garlic paste. 3. Make marinade of hung curd, mustard oil, Jeera powder, Deggi mirch powder and smear it over chicken drumsticks. 4. For second marinade, place the spice mix and kebab masala in a bowl. 5. Heat mustard oil in a pan until slightly hot and pour over second marination masala and mix well. 6. Add the chicken drumsticks into this marinade and leave it for two hours under refrigeration. 7. Stuff the cheese baton and half slit green chilli into drumsticks. 8. Cook in moderate-hot tandoor at 250°C for 15 minutes until crisp and reddish in color and cooked well. 9. Serve with spiced onion rings and lemon wedges. Recipe courtesy: Chef Ajay Chopra / Image by Kunal Khanna

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

recipe corner - kebabs

Saag Aur Khumb Ki Sheekh

The goodness of spinach, the richness of mushrooms and the aroma of spices make this vegetarian sheekh kebab a healthy and colorful accompaniment to any meal. Serves: 4 • Preparation time: 15 minutes • Cooking time: 20 minutes Ingredients: • 2-3 bay leaves • 2 tsp black peppercorn • 1 tbsp cumin seeds • 3 black cardamoms • 6 green cardamoms

• • • • •

500 gm spinach 50 gm fresh fenugreek leaves Water, for blanching 150 gm ghee 150 gm button mushrooms, chopped

• • • • •

40 gm roasted chana dal powder 20 gm yellow chilli powder 30 gm green chillies, chopped 50 gm ginger, chopped Salt, to taste

Method: 1. Make garam masala powder by grinding bay leaf, black peppercorn, cumin seeds and cardamoms. 2. Clean and chop the spinach and methi leaves together. Boil water in a deep vessel and blanch spinach and methi for a couple of minutes. Strain and place them in another vessel with ice water to retain their green colour. After a few minutes, squeeze the leaves and chop finely. 3. Heat ghee in a deep-bottomed pan. Add spinach, methi and mushrooms along with garam masala powder. Sauté till the moisture is gone. Keep aside and let this mixture cool. 4. Add chana flour, yellow chilli powder, green chilli, ginger and salt mix it well. 5. Divide the spinach mixture into small portions and apply on skewer. Grill in a heated tandoor for few minutes. 6. Serve hot with mint chutney. Recipe courtesy: Chef Ajay Chopra / Image by Kunal Khanna

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

recipe corner - kebabs

Jhinga Samarkhand

The beauty of this dish lies not just in its taste or presentation. It also lies in the ease of its preparation. Serves: 4 • Preparation time: 60 minutes • Cooking time: 15 minutes Ingredients: • 250 gm prawns, cleaned and deveined • 1 tsp lemon juice • 20 gm ginger garlic paste • 20 gm garlic paste • Salt, to taste

• • • • •

50 gm yoghurt 1 tsp green chilli paste 2 tsp yellow chilli powder 1 tsp dry Anardana powder 40 gm brown onion paste

• 2 tsp Punjabi garam masala • 2 tsp roasted chana dal powder • Oil, for basting

Method: 1. Mix lemon juice, salt and ginger and garlic paste for marinade in a bowl. Add prawns to it and let it rest for half an hour. 2. Make a second marinade with the remaining ingredients and mix well. Mix in the prawns and let it rest for another half hour. 3. Arrange the prawns on skewers. Cook on a sigri or an open char grill over glowing embers. You can also cook it in a microwave by grilling it for 10 minutes at 180°C. 4. Serve hot with mint chutney. Recipe courtesy: Chef Ajay Chopra / Image by Kunal Khanna

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

recipe corner - kebabs

Matar Khoye Ka Sheekh

This creamy sheekh kebab is such an approachable and no-fuss preparation that you will find yourself making this often for snacks and as an accompaniment to your meals. Serves: 4 • Preparation time: 15 minutes • Cooking time: 20 minutes Ingredients: • 800 gm green peas • 1 tsp black salt • 2 tsp Kitchen King masala

• 200 gm khoya • 1 ½ tbsp garam masala powder • 200 gm roasted chana dal powder

• Salt, to taste • 1 tbsp ghee

Method: 1. Heat ghee in a pan and sauté green peas in it. Add black salt, Kitchen King masala, salt and garam masala powder. 2. Cool and roughly grind the mixture. 3. Add khoya and roasted chana powder and mix well. 4. Paste them on a skewer and baste with a little oil. Cook in a charcoal oven or sigri. 5. Serve with mint chutney. Recipe courtesy: Chef Ajay Chopra / Image by Kunal Khanna

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

events

All Things Nice Wine Week:

Lacking Fizz

hough I'd like to believe I frequent high-end restaurants regularly, I had never heard about All Things Nice Wine Week during the last two years. When I learnt that the wine weekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fourth edition would be held between 25th and 31st August, 2014, being fond of sipping wine, I figured this was too good an opportunity to miss. The idea of an entire week dedicated for wine promotion, especially international brands, sounded like a great way to be introduced to newer brands at 30% less cost. One thought that occurred to me was the timing of Wine Week. It was smack during the popular Ganpati festival, when most people do not drink out of religious sentiments. To get better acquainted with this wine campaign, I visited the Mumbai outpost of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pizza Metro Pizza to try out their set wine dinner menu at INR 1300. I expected the restaurant to be crowded with the ongoing All

Things Nice Wine Week promotion and was surprised to find only one other table occupied. Roberto, the gregarious manager of Pizza Metro Pizza, who likes to regale guests by loudly singing the Italian songs streaming from the speakers, stated he was equally surprised with the low turnout and blamed it on the Wine Week endorsement! LIMITED WINE BRANDS With these not-so-laudable comments about the promotion ringing in my ears, is it any surprise that I perused the menu with a little trepidation? The 3-course set menu comprised a choice of any one antipasti, either a pasta or a pizza, and a dessert. I could choose from one glass of Castel Greve Toscano Rosso or LeMire Rosso red or white wines to accompany the first two courses. Strangely, sparkling or rose wines were not an option in the set menu, though one could order them separately.

The set menu at Pizza Metro Pizza during the All Things Nice Wine Week lacked wine options. This undermined the very objective of the wine promotion initiative, which was to encourage guests to try out different international wine brands. Roberto claimed that Pizza Metro Pizza has a reputation of serving authentic Italian fare, but in my opinion, his claims fell short. The food was decent but it was neither rustic nor flamboyant enough to be classified as fine dining. The Gamberoni Al Aglio had too few king prawns for my taste, CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

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while the Carpaccio Di Manzo had way too many rocket leaves that made the beef taste bitter after a few bites. On our serverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recommendation, my dinner companion and I opted for Le Mire Bianco white wine. For the main course, we chose the Scialatielli Pesciosa pasta and Murgante pizza that were paired with Castel Greve Toscano Rosso and LeMire Rosso red wine. I did not care for the pairing of heavy red wine with these two dishes, and I felt it was offered on the menu merely to give a change from the white varietal. Sadly, no dessert wine was offered with the last course. CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

MY JUDGEMENT During the All Things Nice Wine Week, the wine brands are available at 30% lesser prices. I felt that this is a smart business idea for

For INR 1300, I was looking for an opportunity to indulge, experiment and savour a wider selection of wines during the Wine Week, but felt left down.

premium restaurants, where guests like me usually order local wine brands or stick to a single glass because of the prohibitive prices. For INR 1300, I was looking for an opportunity to indulge, experiment and savour a wider selection of wines during Wine Week, but felt left down. I hope that the next time around, the wine promotion week features more fortified wines like port, sherry or Madeira, in addition to sparkling and dessert wines. Jaya Khanna

events

When Kids Play

SUPERCHEFS! There is never a good age to teach kids to eat healthy. What better way to get them to inculcate this habit than to get them to cook some yummy and nutritious food? That is what Westin Hotels and Resorts attempted to do, as part of its Wellness Movement campaign.

ids love cooking! It’s fun, it’s messy and it’s by far one of the safest experiments they can enjoy with you. This was evident at The Westin’s Kids cook-off at New Delhi and Mumbai as a part of its Wellness Movement campaign. At the event, the kids were first quizzed about what they liked to be part of their school lunch boxes. Then the chefs, Kapil Dubey in New Delhi and Ajay Chopra in Mumbai, involved them in a discussion on how they could prepare their favourite foods with healthier ingredients. As an advocate for wellness and healthy eating, Westin teamed up with SuperChefs, a group of doctors, dentists, dieticians, chefs and other experts

dedicated to educating kids on the importance and the fun of eating smart, to create The Westin Eat Well Menu for Kids. Knowing that kids like dishes that are high on taste and colorful to boot, lot of these dishes are those that are omniscient in a breakfast spread, for instance, fresh juices and smoothies. Since it is equally important to get them to eat nutrition-packed vegetables and fruits, the other SuperFoods included asparagus, walnuts, oranges, honey, lemon and even some decadent dark chocolate. CATCHING THEM YOUNG While the Westin Culinary Academy is a weekend feature, a cooking session for kids is a new initiative

by the hotel chain. Held in New Delhi and Mumbai on separate dates in August 2014, the event was well organized. It helped that chefs Kapil and Ajay are indulgent dads themselves who also know how invaluable it is for growing children to eat the right kinds of food. They therefore created a format that would be interesting for children and would encourage their trying their hands in the kitchen. Completely at ease around the little team of sous-chefs, they had the kids revved up for the four dishes they were to cook. In Delhi, this included pizza from scratch, Chicken Pasta, Chicken Fingers and Pancakes. This is CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

events

what dream menus are made of, and this was the opinion of Ally, the cute 8-year old who mastered these four dishes so well that it is part of the weekend menu at her home now! In Mumbai, the kids made the fresh Herbal Fare juice, Walnut Papaya Pie and a Pin Roll Sandwich. The recipes were easy; the substitutions, like using honey instead of sugar, did not make a great difference to the essential nutritive value of the meal. But it did put healthier alternatives into perspective. The kids seemed most curious about various ingredients like buttermilk in chicken fingers and pineapple as topping for a pizza as well as baby spinach and different types of cheese. Chefs helped the CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

This was followed by a lunch at Seasonal Tastes, which made for a great weekend afternoon! Kids usually veer towards the pasta stations, but this time a lot of them were seen tucking into salads, Dim Sum and grills too.

The recipes were easy, the substitutions, like using honey instead of sugar, did not make a great difference to the essential nutritive value of the meal. Kids are constantly under the kids make their own whole-wheat pizza bases, which was another new for some of them. The fact that the kids were engrossed for the hour and half long sessions was a feat in itself! The cook-off concluded with a tasting and the kids flitted around with their wares, oblivious to how learning ran parallel with fun for a change.

influence of their environment and small experiences can make a large difference to how they see themselves and their world. For us, this session further cemented our childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wish to cook for a living. How that pans out, we shall see! Parul Pratap Shirazi and Vinita Bhatia

events

WHISKEYing up a STORM W

e may not have won as many gold medals at the Olympics, but when it comes to drinking up more than half of the world’s whiskey, Indians sure come out on top. The landscape is littered with self-proclaimed whiskey experts much like the Middle Ages when there was a flood of self-proclaimed god men. Each one will tell a different story of how whiskey is enjoyed best. We drink it at home, at parties, serve it at weddings, and we do all that in the most atrocious way and for one reason only – to get high real quick. No one is complaining, because if it wasn’t for the getting high real quick business, how drab would the wedding videos be without that one distant relative killing it on the dance floor?! Have you wondered why more Indians are turning towards whiskey? It could be partly due to the fact that more choice is available

in the Indian market, all the way from the so-called whiskey made from molasses to the good stuff purchased at the duty free shops. It is also partly due to the inherent need to get hammered with the first drink. Another factor that adds to the purchase consideration is the cost. A good whiskey may set you back by the same amount, perhaps even more than a good wine, but it offers more punch for the spent buck. ENJOYING WHISKY, A DROP AT A TIME Although there are no rules set in stone about drinking whiskey, how many of us really know how to enjoy whiskey, scotch or single malt and make that special occasion really special? Not many, I bet. With the wedding season on the anvil, Diageo’s experts at the Vogue Wedding Show at Taj Palace in New Delhi set out to educate and entertain some young brides and

grooms-to-be in the art of choosing the right whiskey for their big day and the right way to enjoy the drink. Zbigniew Zapert, Diageo’s brand ambassador hosted The Whiskey 101 session. Oh, how I envy these ‘brand ambassadors’. I know their job is not all glamour and glitz. At the end of the day, it is very serious business knowing the finer nuances of the drink. For example, the eastern coast of Scotland gets less rainfall than the western coast resulting in the peat used for distillation being drier and hence less smokey, resulting in a mellower appeal to the finished drink. Distilleries situated closer to the coastline that use the water from the same creek as used by upriver distilleries tend to produce spirits that are briny as the water near the delta is richer in salts and minerals, thus lending a briny palate. CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

events

As Indians travel the world over, opinions and choices about alcohol are evolving. Wine still rules the roost when it comes to the drink of choice at weddings, but in an amazing turn of events, more people are opting for whiskeys. Diageoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s experts at the Vogue Wedding Show at Taj Palace in New Delhi tried to educate and entertain some young brides and grooms-to-be in the art of choosing the right whiskey for their big day and the right way to enjoy the drink.

The session was aimed at the wedding hoopla that will hit the Indian landscape a few weeks from now and make weddings seem like itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a national past time for Indians of all ages. Despite the comic relief that weddings, or marriages (as they are incorrectly referred to) afford, CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

they are just as serious a business as any other, especially for the bride and the groom. No wonder then that a large percentage of the audience at the whiskey session was composed of young men and women on the verge of tying the knot. As a commentator, I always

profess that there is far more to learn about the drinks business than meets the eye, and the session sure was an eye-opener for many of these youngsters! Jaswinder Singh 61

perspective

TROUBLE in a TEACUP

A Greenpeace investigation slammed leading tea brands claiming that their products contained traces of pesticides. Even before customers could gulp down this bitter news, the tea companies came out with all guns blazing, stating the study was incorrect and baseless. 62

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

perspective

ike every other morning, Bangalore’s Shreya Kotian settled down to read the newspaper while sipping on some hot tea. A minute later, she sputtered the tea out as she read the screaming headlines on the front page of the daily, ‘Pesticides In Indian Tea, Says Greenpeace’. She rushed to pour the contents of her teacup down the drain before perusing the article carefully. She read that an investigation carried out by Greenpeace India found residues of hazardous chemical pesticides in a majority of samples of the main brands of packaged tea produced and consumed in India. The survey results, which were released in August 2014, sampled 49 branded packaged teas from eight of the top 11 companies that dominate the branded tea market in India and which also export to countries like Russia, Britain, the US, the UAE and Iran.

‘A large number of the samples tested positive for a cocktail of toxic pesticides. DDT was present in almost 67 percent of the tea samples even though it is no longer registered for use in agriculture in India and was banned in such applications as long ago as 1989’ – the survey claimed. TEA COMPANIES DISPEL DOUBTS Following the widespread outrage sparked by the release of this survey’s results, leading tea companies, including Hindustan Unilever Ltd (HUL), Tata Global Beverages and Wagh Bakri Tea, went on a war footing to convince customers that their products were safe and pesticide-free. HUL issued a statement that extensive data from testing done at external laboratories show that it fully complied with the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) stipulations. “HUL does not own any tea plantations

in India and procures tea for its domestic and exports businesses from auctions conducted by the Tea Board of India as well as directly from producers. We have now commissioned a research project, in consultation with other industry players, with CABI, an international independent expert agency, to investigate the feasibility of growing tea in India through non-pesticide management methods and have even engaged with Greenpeace in this regard,” reads an official release from the company. Tata Global Beverages also stated that its tea meets standards set by its overseas buyers and is safe for consumption. It has also commissioned its sister companies Tata Chemicals and Rallis India to find natural methods to reduce or replace chemicals used to control pests in tea estates.

“An avid tea lover can choose certified organic tea. A certified product should carry the organic logo of the certifying agency on the pack” – Radhika Shah, Radhika’s Fine Tea

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

perspective

SOME POINTS FROM THE GREENPEACE INQUIRY • A total of 34 pesticides were found in 46 samples of branded tea. • 59% (29 of the samples) contained ‘cocktails’ of more than 10 different pesticides, including one sample which contained residues of 20 different pesticides. • 59% (29) of the samples also contained residues of at least one pesticide active ingredient above the Maximum Residue Levels set by the EU (EU-MRL), with 37% (18) of the tea samples exceeding these levels by more than 50%. • 68% of the 34 pesticides found in the various samples appear not to be registered for use in the cultivation of tea. The Tea Board of India (TBI) reviewed the findings of the Greenpeace study and later confirmed that all the samples tested by Greenpeace complied with the Indian laws and regulations, designed to protect consumers. “The Indian tea industry led by TBI has been constantly taking steps to make tea cultivation even more sustainable and reduce reliance on synthetic plant protection products to ensure that Indian tea continues to meet the high standards consumers expect. This includes the launch of ‘trustea’, an initiative that will have certified at least 50 mil64

lion kilograms of tea by December 2014, as well as the development of the Plan Protection Code to aid best practice in tea cultivation. It is also identifying, and advocating for, higher standards by partnering with the industry on a scientific pilot that will ascertain the feasibility of non synthetic plant protection products for tea cultivation,” this apex body stated. CONFUSION AMONGST CONSUMERS While Greenpeace and the tea companies battle it out to prove and refute the presence pesticides

in tea, how can the large majority of tea drinkers in the country sip their favorite brew without any fear? During tea cultivation, tea leaves absorb most pesticides that have been sprayed on the plant. So is there any way to cleanse the leaves of any residual pesticides? Neetu Sarin of Tea of Life says that washing fruits and vegetables well can reduce the amount of pesticide on the surface. “It is difficult to wash regular teas. The Chinese always pour hot water on tea leaves and throw the first water away. CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

perspective

This could help if you want to be extra-cautious about the tea you brew daily,” she adds. Radhika Shah of Radhika’s Fine Teas, on the other hand, notes that it is difficult to segregate any existing pesticides in the tea, especially when the consumer is brewing it. “However, it is important to protect any further contamination to the tea by using clean storage utensils,” she advises. However, both agree that if a tea lover wants to enjoy a cuppa without worrying about the damning presence of pesticides in it, they can opt for organically grown artiCaLDRON Magazine September 2014

sanal tea. Elucidating why this is a better alternative, Radhika explains that under organic agriculture practices, pesticides make way for compost and natural organic matter. Hence, organic tea has the lowest levels of chemical residues. “An avid tea lover can choose certified organic tea. A certified product should carry the organic logo of the certifying agency on the pack,” she adds. Neetu says that her brand, Tea of Life, uses high altitude spring teas for their blends. “There is very little need for pesticide on these teas

due to the high altitude and spring harvest, which was something I discussed at length with my supplier before I started buying several years ago. These artisanal teas are produced in the orthodox way in very small quantities,” she remarks. So, if you can’t stay without your daily brew of tea, and don’t want to risk imbibing chemicals at the same time, shift gears to artisanal tea brands. However, be prepared to pay a premium for these organic varieties. Vinita Bhatia 65

health faq

Food Allergies:

Hiding Remarkable Allegories Till a few decades ago, food allergies were unheard of. Today, there are many who are lactose, nut or gluten intolerant. Have you ever wondered why our forefathers rarely suffered from food allergies while a growing number of members from the current generation are falling prey to it?

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

health faq

shmit Shah was a normal 10-year old; playful and curious, until one day, his inquisitiveness landed him in a hospital. After sharing a classmate’s lunchbox at school, he started gasping for breath and had to be rushed to a hospital. After the doctors stabilized Ashmit, they informed his panicked parents that he suffered from a food allergy that brought on the attack. Ashmit is now one of the many children visiting medical nutritional consultants to learn how to avoid future food-related allergy attacks, besides keeping a constant eye on every morsel that is allowed into their mouths. While talking at the Nestlé Nutrition Institute in Delhi, Dr Pankaj Vohra, Diplomate American Board of Pediatric Gastroenterology, Pediatric Gastroenterology, Hepatology and Nutrition of Max Hospitals noted that allergy rates are rapidly increasing all over the world and 54% of Americans have allergy to at least one substance, while 10% of Australian children have challenge-proven IgE mediated food allergy. What could be the cause behind these alarming figures? Actually, the answer lies in your refrigerator. UNHEALTHY LIFESTYLES Until a few decades ago, people would buy produce from local neighborhood markets on a daily basis. This nutrient-dense food was consumed fresh making the use of preservatives redundant, which reduced food-related anomalies. This aside, infants were reared on breast milk, rather than formula,

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

which gave them the necessary probiotics to develop a strong immune system. Today, children are exposed to food riddled with pesticides, antibiotics, preservatives and other chemicals. As they grow up, their food choices meander around processed or pre-cooked food, which contain a variety of food colorings, flavors, preservatives, and additives. “These are pitfalls of a lifestyle that focuses on convenience rather than nutrition and have led to the development of immune cellular reactions, which manifest themselves as food allergies,” says Dr Kalpana Shekhawat, a Medical Nutrition Consultant.

GENETIC MODIFICATION OF FOOD While talking about food allergies it is impossible not to touch upon genetically modified (GM) food. And who can explain the ill effects of GM food better than Robyn O’Brien, a Real Food Evangelist? She points out that in 1994, the dairy industry started using a genetically engineered growth hormone, rBGH (recombinant bovine growth hormone) on cows in order to increase milk production. However, this resulted in higher rates of disease in the treated livestock. To counteract the ill effects, dairies had to use more antibiotics, which is one of the driving factors behind the rise in antibiotic-resistant superbugs in humans. 67

health faq

Until a few decades ago, people would buy produce from local neighborhood markets on a daily basis. This nutrient-dense food was consumed fresh making the use of preservatives redundant, which reduced food-related anomalies.

“In the mid 90s, new food proteins were engineered and introduced in food supply, yet no human trials were ever conducted to see if these genetically engineered proteins were safe for human consumption,” she explains. This is why she advises that one should avoid processed non-organic foods and instead stick to buying fresh produce from local farmers. SEASONAL PRODUCE AND BALANCED DIET “Till a few years ago, mangoes could be enjoyed only in the summer, while carrots were available between August to November and we would gorge on Gajar Halwa in those months. Now, these are available year round, yet nobody wonders why?” marvels Chef Varun Inamdar, who holds workshops on healthy eating for kids. 68

He adds that fruits and vegetables grown during ideal climatic and soil conditions contain three times more natural nutrients than those that are cultivated throughout the year. And when consumed within a couple of days, their nutritive value in a balanced diet is not compromised. In fact, a balanced diet is key to a healthy lifestyle. These days, there is lot of pressure on youngsters to look cool (read ridiculously thin) and they resort to crash diets. This plays havoc with their immunity systems because the body requires various micro and macro nutrients in appropriate balanced quantities to function. “Deficiency of any of these nutrients or trace minerals can initiate a series of chain reactions, which cause abnormal immune responses such as devel-

opment of various food allergies and can also lead to many other chronic lifestyle disorders,” says Dr Kalpana Shekhawat. Learning about food allergies after being diagnosed with one is akin to bolting the stable door after the horse has bolted, as in Ashmit’s case. However, look at it this way – Ashmit’s parents can now adopt a healthier lifestyle so that he does not succumb to any other ailments brought on by damaging food habits. Vinita Bhatia

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

quick bytes

Take Deep Draughts with

Gollum, Smaug And Bolg The final edition of Hobbit will hit movie screens in December. But if the anticipation of the action has you on edge already, drink to the health of characters from JRR Tolkien’s classic novel, courtesy Washington state-based Fish Brewing Company.

ill Bilbo Baggins be able to help Thorin defeat Smaug? Will the dwarves finally make Misty Mountain their home? Can’t handle the suspense till December 2014, when the movie finally hits the screens? While you wait for Bilbo Baggins to come to the rescue of Thorin and his gang of merry dwarves in the last edition of the Hobbit trilogy series, how about chilling out with some Hobbit beer? Yes, you read that right.

Washington state-based Fish Brewing Company has partnered with BevLink, Warner Brothers and New Line Productions to create three beers that pay tribute to the unforgettable characters from JRR Tolkien’s classic novel. The first beer to be introduced in September will be Gollum Precious Pils, followed by Smaug Stout and Bolg Belgian style Tripel. The Gollum Precious Pils is a strong Imperial Pils with smooth flavors, while the Smaug Stout is styled after a classic Russian

Imperial Stout, with subtle hints of Habanero chilis and notes of coffee and chocolate. The inclusion of Northwest Hops adds a touch of heat to this imperial stout. The Bolg Belgian Style Tripel ale is strong and flavorful – definitely not for the weak-hearted. All three contain 9.5 percent alcohol by volume or ABV. Fish Brewing Company is an award-winning handcrafted brewer with distribution throughout the Pacific Northwest. Company officials stated that each of the beers in the Hobbit trio collection have been “selectively tailored to emulate popular Hobbit characters.” Whether you are appalled or riveted by the crafty Gollum or enthralled by the gigantic Smaug, now you can drink your Hobbit beer while watching repeats of the first two editions of the trilogy. And await the launch of the final chapter. Team CaLDRON

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

cellar speak

“I want people around me to drink good wines, not cheap wines, at a good price” – Shipra Jain Every now and then, someone comes along and challenges the status quo of this universe. They refuse to give up and give in to the norms. Then there are spectators who stick to the sidelines, marvel interacting with these luminaries and writing about them. One such fine person, whom Jaswinder Singh met by sheer happenstance at one of the many wine tastings he attended, is Shipra Jain. And he had a chance to understand what makes her tick.

t is no secret that India consumes half of the world’s whiskey. Would you believe it if someone said that they woke up one fine day and decided to import wines in a country that is dubbed as the focal point of whiskey consumption? Very unlikely, right? But that is exactly what Shipra Jain did. Coming from a very traditional business family of Dehradun, she decided long ago that she will write her own rules and make the

world around her follow them. In her maiden interview with Chef at Large, she shares the story of her journey from being a techie to a wine importer and creating her own company called Reseda Buying Agency. Jaswinder Singh (JS): How would you describe Shipra Jain and what she does? Shipra Jain (SJ): I belong to a traditional business family of Dehradun, where I grew up and did my schooling. My family is in the met-

al business, so frankly there were no links at all with either fashion or wines. Despite this, they never discouraged me from choosing my own path. I graduated with two degrees, English and Computers and ended up with a job in one of the largest technology companies in India. While working there, my mind wandered to the domain of fashion and lifestyle so, I decided to go after a degree in fashion designing. Once I had armed myself with CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

cellar speak

this degree, I switched gears, quit the technology sector and jumped straight into fashion, working as an agent for the European market. That was nearly 10 years ago. During that time, I met with lot of people from Europe and it was in 2004 that I had my first glass of wine. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s when I knew I will be working with wines soon.

mination to pull through because I never felt dispirited at the lack of finances or experience.

JS: Did you face resistance from your family? SJ: They were not very happy in the beginning, being a very traditional set of people, but they never discouraged me either. In a way that gave me confidence and deter-

JS: How did the transition from fashion to wines happen? SJ: Though I had made up my mind that I want to be in the wine industry I had absolutely no clue how to go about it. Internet searches did not throw up rele-

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

I continued working as an agent for foreign buyers at a garment export house. At the time, I had no clue about imports and exports. I practically learned everything on my own, taking a step at a time.

vant information. In 2006, I met Subhash Arora who told me I was too young to be importing wines. Nonetheless, he introduced me to the wine events where I met people from the industry, without any groundbreaking results. Then I got caught up with the fashion business for a while and wines went on to the back burner. Eventually, I met with Magandeep Singh and some good information started flowing in my direction. Finally, in 2013, I took the plunge and imported the first batch of wines from Rhone valley.

ASK THE EXPERTS

JS: How about from within the wine industry, did you face resistance there? SJ: Not really. People did warn me about the many policy restrictions in the wine imports industry. But, everyone has to go through the phases of business, of investment and returns on that investment. And there are many people in every industry as are in wine, they are all doing their jobs, so why not me? Luckily, I never faced any overt face-off of any kind with anyone from the industry. JS: Why this label, La Chasse? SJ: The only label that I import currently, La Chasse, is from Rhone valley in South France. No winery from that region was exporting to India at the time, so it made good business sense to import something that I knew Indians would appreciate and would be a good product to sell in the local market. The wines are excel72

lent and only after tasting through a long list of wines, I decided to import La Chasse. JS: Which varietals from the label are available in the Indian market?

“There is a demand from consumers for good French and Spanish wines, and I wanted to do both, but decided to start small with just the one label from France.” – Shipra Jain

SJ: We have three varietals from La Chasse, the Syrah, Merlot and a Chardonnay-Viognier blend. They have other high-end wines as well, but just to study the market and the response, I decided on the mid-level wines of the label, in a rather small quantity by industry standards, just 50 cases per year to begin with. The response from the consumers has been good, very encouraging. The wines are very easy drinking wines that you can enjoy with Indian food, continental cuisines, South East Asian cuisines. There is a demand from consumers for good French and Spanish wines, and I wanted to do both, but decided to start small with just the one label from France. Spanish wines will be my next stop. I want people around me to drink good wines, not cheap wines, at a good price. CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

ASK THE EXPERTS

JS: Having been in the business for almost a year now, what is your comfort level with the rules and regulations surrounding the wine and alcobev industry? SJ: My god! There are so many rules, regulations and policies and one has to navigate through them, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never easy. Things are very different from when I started, so I have much more clarity now. There are a number of restrictions in the Indian market, which is CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

affecting business. Lot of exporters are wary of entering the market because of this reason, leaving the consumer bereft of some of the finest products available in the global markets. It gets prohibitive sometimes but learning the ropes of the game is half the battle. JS: What other challenges apart from policy restrictions, according to you, are there for wines in India that you would like to change?

SJ: I would like to begin with the mindset of a majority of the people. Most people think wine is a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s drink, just like fashion is a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prerogative. Things are changing, people are traveling more and trying to understand wine better, but the change is slow, something I would like to see happen sooner. Jaswinder Singh

beer chronicles

Toasting The Stout

Irish Spirit The Irish add an element of rusticity to everything they touch â&#x20AC;&#x201C; be it their poignant poetry, their fervour for contact sports or their passion for their brew. This country gave birth to Stout beer that resonates with craic or bonhomie, bravado and camaraderie; just like the Irish!

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

beer chronicles

t is said that an Irishman is never drunk as long as he can hold onto one blade of grass and not fall off the face of the earth. And since there are no confirmed news reports of an Irishman falling off the face of our planet, this can only mean that no one can beat the Irish at the drinking game. If you like your beer, the place to savour its different varieties is definitely Europe. However, the rich, dark Irish stout is the crowning glory of beers across the continent. And it holds place of pride in pubs across Ireland. In fact don’t be surprised to walk into a pub and see the locals drink their beer as if it were a liquid supplement to their dietary requirement.

THE OMNISCIENT PRESENCE OF GUINNESS Guinness is synonymous with Irish beer and you can almost hear it flex its strong muscles to welcome you with a warm hug the moment you step into any Irish bar. Its dark hue notwithstanding, this is

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

a surprisingly light beer and will not weigh you down – depending of course on how many pints you have downed! But don’t let this classic brew overawe you, because there are several other equally stellar beers you can try. The other popular Irish brews include Harp, a crisp, light lager and Murphy's Amber, a light ale. If you are adventurous, then sip on the Kilkenny, a red ale that has a distinct sweet malty taste.

in a way that you can spare a few days to visit the various microbreweries in the country. Many of these boutique breweries organise beer appreciation tours where you can sample their local brews.

Of course, the Irish know that not everyone likes beer, but who can say no to cider? That is why most Irish watering holds have Bulmers Cider, a sweet and hard cider that is served with copious amounts of ice.

The best place to begin your beer trail would be Guinness Storehouse in Dublin. Located in the heart of the St. James's Gate Brewery, it has even found a place on Ireland's must-visit tourist spots. A visit to the brewery itself is not possible, but a guided tour of the storehouse will shed an interesting light into the country’s beer culture and history. Since no beer tour is complete without tasting, chug down some of their beers at the Gravity Bar while taking in the panoramic view over Dublin.

GETTING TO THE ROOT OF THE BREWS The Irish are justified in being proud of their beer, they also take immense pride in showcasing the preparation of the brew. If you truly want to appreciate the culture of beer in Ireland, plan your itinerary

You can then go southwards to the small, but busy, Carlow Brewing Company in Carlow. You will need to call them in advance and request for a tour that coincides with their production schedule. If you are lucky to get this opportunity, you can sample several of

beer chronicles their beer varieties, including a stout, wheat beer and red ale that are brewed using traditional Celtic methods. Further south is the St. Francis Abbey Brewery in Kilkenny. Probably the oldest brewery started by monks in medieval times, you can sign up with Smithwick, which offers exclusive brewery tours of this brewery. Not only can you get a chance to see the Brewhouse where Smithwickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is actually brewed but you can also visit the stunning 13th century St. Francis Abbey, which sits on the site of the brewery. These are but some of the famous breweries in Ireland, and every city boasts of its own microbreweries with their own craft beer. Research well before you plan your visit to Ireland. It will be a shame if you miss out on visiting these landmarks of the brewing industry, that have received critical acclaim the world over. Oliver Schauf

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

Mozzarella Parmesan Processed Cheddar Paneer / Cottage Cheese Feta Cheese Goat Cheese Gouda Cream Cheese Ricotta Blue/Bleu Brie Emmental Haloumi Mascarpone Gruyere Camembert Edam Monterey Jack Pecorino Romano Gorgonzola Stilton Leicester Grana Padano Roquefort Yak's Milk Cheese Cracker Barrel Bocconcini Asiago Manchego Churpi Gloucester Havarti Bandel (West Bengal) Queso Fresco Munster Burrata Jibneh Formaggini Wensleydale Apetina Scamorza Kalimpong Cheese Dubliner Limburger Anari Kashkawan Provolone Gjetost Appenzeller Romanian Bryndza

MEMBER POLL

How many types of cheeses have you tried?

Cheese, apart from the mildest ones, have flavors that are considered alien to the Indian palate, or so we thought, when we asked readers how many cheeses they had tried. The answer tells us that the Indian palate is more sophisticated than we thought!

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Original question: How many cheese have you eaten? Respondents: Four thousand three hundred and sixty two (4362)

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

hands on

Airfry Your Way To Lean Cooking The Philips Air Fryer can become an addictive gadget in your kitchen. Provided you have space for this big appliance on your kitchen counter.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

hands on

he Philips AirFryer is the newest kitchen gizmo on the block! It’s becoming a favourite amongst the health and calorie conscious, which is slightly surprising, because it isn’t cheap (as kitchen gizmos go). And it’s pretty bulky. However, it makes a promise that garners plenty of attention. The Philips AirFryer states its “unique Rapid Air Technology lets you fry with air to make food that is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Little or no oil is needed to ensure perfect texture and delicious results.” We decided to put this to test. BIG AS THEY GO As far as first impressions go, the size is a bit of a concern, given the kitchen sizes of newer apartments. However if you’re likely to do justice to a machine like this by cooking in it regularly, then the bulkiness really doesn’t matter. At this price point, it is hard to gauge how much saving there will be in terms of justifying this expense, but yes, if you and your family enjoy fried foods often, then of course, the cost of buying cooking mediums will go down in the long run. Though bulbous, the appliance can be lifted easily. The more time you spend with it, the more you get hooked to it. You can grill, fry and even bake in this machine but not saute or stir fry, so it can prepare part of a typical meal but not entirely, since there is no way you can make curries or lentils or anything with gravy in it.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

TECHNOLOGY AT WORK The Philips Airfryer fries food using a combination of hot air circulation and a grill element to cook food, reducing the need for a cooking medium considerably. It is fairly silent and fries around 300 gm of French Fries in about 5 + 7 minutes – 5 minutes to preheat and 7 minutes to cook. The basic elements of the machine include a cooking basket with a handle that’s easy to slide out, remove and clean. It has a large dial timer and graded temperature control, but it is imperative to read the instructions to make sure you don’t overcook the food being prepared in the machine. The plastic body is easy to wipe; use a moist kitchen towel and then wipe dry and do the same for the surface under the basket where bits of cooked food tend to fall. The general look and feel of the machine is sleek and sturdy but it can be a bit tricky to clean. As a matter of principle, I wouldn’t leave this for the domestic help to look after. The cooking basket and the area around it is best maintained by the wipe and clean method. During the six weeks I used the Philips AirFryer, I didn’t feel the need to wash it. Since the usage of oil is zero or minimal, it doesn’t get greasy anyway. I made Chicken Tikka, Cheese Samosas, Zucchini Chips, Lamb Chops, Chicken Nuggets and Fried Fish in the device. What cooked very well was a range of ready-toeat frozen snacks; instead of deep frying or baking, all I had to do was brush very lightly with olive oil and Airfry for about 6 minutes.

FINAL OPINION Though bulky, the Philips AirFryer does hold up to the promise of zero or minimal oil/cooking medium. The results though are not the same as food cooked by traditional methods like deep frying, shallow frying, grilling or baking. Also, you can cook around 300-400 gm at a time, which can be inadequate for a family of four. The taste and texture might be compromised a little, as I realized with fried fish, lamb chops and samosas. The Airfryer works very well with ready-to-eat and frozen foods. A batch of Seekh Kebab turned out perfect in terms of taste and texture; though the Shammi Kebab wasn’t as fine as I expected it to be. Parul Pratap Shirazi Product: Philips AirFryer Model: (HD9220/20 2.2) Price: INR 10,995

USER RESPONSES Nitu Bajwa Malladi, Pune: I have cooked Tandoori Chicken in my Philips Airfryer. The proof that what I cooked was good was that my kids made me prepare a second batch! This is a healthy cooking option, and is easy to operate. It is a good investment from health’s perspective. Suhan Mahajan, New Delhi: I have tried many dishes in my Philips Airfryer like Tikki, Samosa, Kurkuri Bhendi, Brinjal Fry, Pizza, etc. The Kurkuri Bhendi turned out brilliantly. 79

ask the expert

ASK THE EXPERT Cooking might seem like a daunting affair, what with shopping for the right ingredients, cleaning them, chopping them and following recipes to the T. And then there is the stress about the dish turning out as expected. Let us help you! Send us your questions about food and cooking and we will get chefs of leading hotels to share their wisdom on how to make that dish, perfect. “What can I make with leftover chapatti, preferably something savory and tangy?” Asma Haidery, Ranchi Chef Vivek Kapoor: “Why don’t you try making crispy crackers from the chapatti and serve it with some salsa? Cut the leftover chapatti into triangles and sprinkle a mix of garlic and cumin powder over it. Arrange these on a baking tray and brush them lightly with oil. Place them in a preheated oven at 180°C and bake, until they turn crisp. You can serve these with some indigenous salsa with chopped ripe tomatoes, chopped onion, green chillies and coriander. Or you can give it with some melted cheese flavored with oregano.” “I would like to get the recipe for Rava Khichdi.” Priyanka Saha, Kolkata

Chef Vivek Kapoor: “Heat 4 tsp ghee in an iron skillet. Temper with 1 tsp mustard seeds, ½ tsp cumin seeds, a couple of curry leaves and 1 whole red chilli. Add 150 gm rawa and sauté till it is coated with the ghee. Add ½ tsp of turmeric and salt, as per your taste. Pour enough water (preferably warm water) to cover the rawa. Cover the pan with a lid and cook on medium flame till the rawa is cooked. Garnish with grated fresh coconut or coriander leaves and serve hot.”

Chef Vivek Kapoor: “The texture depends on the dish you are baking. A short crust biscuit cannot have a spongy texture, but it is expected in a sponge cake. Please remember that the baked products available in the market have artificial emulsifiers that give an even spring to the food. If you want to get the same springiness you can use cake gel available in certain stores that stock baking products. It will help your sponge cake batter rise evenly and will yield a moist soft product.

“Whenever I bake something it becomes sticky and does not have the melt-in-the-mouth texture like the ones that you get from the market. Why does this happen? And how can I get the soft spongy texture?” Suhani Bansal, Chittorgarh

In the meantime, you can also play close attention to the mixing of the batter. Over-mixing will lead to hardened texture, while under-mixing will make it lumpy.”

Chef Vivek Kapoor started his culinary journey as an apprentice with iconic personalities from The Oberoi for eight years. He went on to join Radisson in New Delhi for seven years as Bakeryin-charge and later worked with various Taj Hotels & Resorts properties including Rambagh Palace, Vivanta by Taj Chandigarh and Taj Gateway, Jodhpur. Chef Vivek was also part of the pre-opening team of a luxury resort in Gulmarg, called Khyber. His latest assignment is as Executive Chef of ITC’s My Fortune in Bengaluru, where he demonstrates his flair for innovation and creativity in the most mundane dish. 80

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

ask the expert “My 4-year old daughter has a children’s cooking competition at school. Could you please suggest some vegetarian recipes that she can make all by herself?” Shilpi Khera Minocha, New Delhi Chef Vivek Kapoor: “To be on the safer side, I suggest you concentrate on cold preparations and ensure no knives are used in the preparation of the dish. Get her to practice making a Triple-Decker sandwich with peanut butter and fresh fruit jam between three bread slices. Another healthy option is a salad of fresh vegetables with a sprinkle of lemon salt, olive oil and English mustard.” “Is it possible to make a baked cheesecake without eggs?” Shreya Ravi Prakash, Bangalore Chef Vivek Kapoor: “You can substitute eggs with some starch in the form of corn flour. However, the texture will be slightly denser.” “I have lot of plums in the fridge. Can you tell me how I can make the Bengali preparation of plum chutney?” Anju Kapahi, New Delhi Chef Vivek Kapoor: “On a grinding stone, grind red dry chili with garlic with a dash of gondhoraaj lime and plums. Season this with black salt, sugar and salt.” “Recently, I was at a vegetarian bakery and I saw eggless French macaroons on the menu. The person at the counter claimed these were made from an egg replacer. I find that difficult to believe, because the only two ingredients in macaroons are egg whites and almonds. Was he bluffing or is CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

there something like vegan macaroons?” Rutvika Charegaonkar, Mumbai Chef Vivek Kapoor: “There are many chemicals that act like stabilisers and replace the lecithin found in egg. These are often used in baked products that use egg, including macaroons. Incidentally, you can also make a natural egg substitute at home without using chemicals, with icing sugar and moist almond flour with optimum amount of moisture. Of course, if you make macaroons with this, it might not be as feather light as the macaroons made with egg whites.” “I often crave for Mysore Masala Dosa. I want to understand what 'Mysore spice mix' is used in this type of dosa. Can you also help me with that recipe?” Herbie Her, California

Chef Vivek Kapoor: “Grind garlic, red chilly and tamarind with a little water in a stone pestle. This is the Mysore spice mix. Smear this on a regular dosa and then spread a mixture of boiled potato and peas above it to get the Mysore Masala Dosa.” “During a recent trip to Kashmir, I picked up some special green tea. This is not the kahwa. Lookswise, it appears to be same as the CTC tea leaves most of us have daily. I would like to know what the best way to brew this green tea is.” - Chitra Haldia, New Delhi Chef Vivek Kapoor: “The best way to brew green tea is by dipping it in steaming hot, natural spring water. This water will extract the maximum goodness (anti-oxidants) while tap water or the regular packaged water might have traces of magnesium and chloride.” 81

roaming rover

Soul Searching in Mulshi Our first impression of RutuParna Farms was awe and delight. Pictures cannot do justice to the peace and calm we felt in the standalone cottages set amidst the lush mountainside alongside the Mulshi river.

t is a pity maps only tell directions, not the condition of the roads you have to drive on. Driving down from Pune to Mulshi, I cursed the roads as they got narrower, the potholes bigger. But as the traffic got sparser and everything around me transformed to a lush, green landscape, the curses were replaced with sighs as I realized that I was well and truly in the countryside. After driving through winding roads in the mountains, parallel to the Mulshi Dam, I finally found myself at RutuParna Farms at Bha-

das Road. This farmstay may not offer its guests everything to bond with nature, yet provides enough to soothe one’s jangled city nerves. At RutuParna Farms, Mrs. Swati Pawar, owner of the farmstay, and her daughter Nikita welcomed us. After parking the car, our luggage was carried away silently to our independent cottage by the eager beaver resort staff. RutuParna Farm has seven individual cottages with a bathroom, private balcony and other creature comforts like cable TV sets and top-of-the-line split air condi-

tioners, to help you relax during the scorching summer. And yes, power backup generators to ensure that you remain comfortable at all times. Part of the bathroom’s ceiling is made of glass, which is an ingenious piece of architecture, since one did not require artificial light until it was dark outside. Earthy décor accentuates the surroundings of the resort and one can find many recycled materials redesigned to serve as functional showpieces, which showcases the creativity and practicality of the CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

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resort owners. A distinctive installation at the resort was a lineup of over 100 Lord Ganesha idols. Each idol was unique. I spent a good hour just walking around and admiring these beautiful palm sized idols. LUSH ENVIRONS After the refreshing welcome drink and a hot shower, we headed out to explore the resort and its surCaLDRON Magazine September 2014

roundings. Breathtakingly lush in myriad hues of green, it enjoys abundant sunshine during summers, and torrential rain, thanks to Mulshiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heavy annual monsoon. We walked along the road outside the resort, and time literally flew while we were admiring the farming activity of the locals and the sound of rain hitting small puddles along the hilly path.

Soaking in the joy of being one with nature, we realized we had walked a few kilometers, and decided to walk back to the resort. A handsome Doberman Pinscher greeted us with a few friendly barks at the entrance, while the delightful whiff of yummy food wafting from the kitchen gave us the signal that it was lunch time. The wholesome Maharashtrian fare was served in steel utensils 83

roaming rover and one could enjoy unlimited portions. We ate the scrumptious food to our heartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s content since the food was simply prepared and thankfully served sans fanfare. Owing to the small size of the property, gradually folks got to know everyone else and conversations revolved around traveling and food. Incidentally, kids can enjoy the on-demand bullock cart rides, and a visit to a nearby greenhouse is arranged on request. All you need to do is plan these excursions in advance and inform the hotel staff who will arrange for it. AMBLING ALONG WITH NATURE The next day, I set out for an early morning walk along the resort road where I helped a young boy coax his herd of goats to stay on the road, and even waded through a meandering stream racing down a mountain slope. This area was so virgin that I could not see traces of humanity for miles, except for the winding, butter-smooth tar road. I felt I had traveled through time to a period when mankind had not yet discovered this place. Later that evening, we took a half hour drive down to the Mulshi dam to see the swollen river barely being contained in the manmade structure. It makes you realize the ferocity of nature, which we humans try to tame, though not always with success! RutuParna Farms comes alive at night when the lights within the earthen lamps glow. This is as rustic as rustic gets. Dinnertime was an event we were beginning to enjoy and look forward to, on account of the conversations to be had with our newfound friends. 84

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roaming rover That night, the delightful dinner was based on the distinct flavors of Kolhapur and later some resort residents settled down for a game of carom. I decided to chat with Mrs. Swati Pawar to learn more about the resort. LEARNING ABOUT THE PLACE She told me that RutuParna Farms

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

started out as a family getaway, and taking heed to the suggestions by friends and family, they decided to go commercial. However, it is quite evident that the primary approach to the business was not to make money, but to share the delights of farmstay with the world. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our idea is to be happy first, before we can make others happy,â&#x20AC;? Swati said. The food is sourced locally from

the neighboring villages, while some produce, like cabbage, aubergines and lime, are actually grown on the property. She showed us how we too could grow our own fruits and veggies right in our backyard the next day! Swati revealed that RutuParna Farm is affiliated to the Maharashtra Agri Tourism initiative, and

roaming rover helps promote Maharashtra as a rich, cultural state, with a vision to keep the world clean, green and sustainable for our future generations. She is now keen to take the resort a step further, by getting the resort ISO 9001 and ISO 14002 certifications in the near future. The staff comprises locals from surrounding villages. Owing to the seasonal nature of their farming occupations, they use their off-season time to work at the farm, and tend to the farm animals there. That also explains the personal attention they lavish on guests with effervescent smiles on their faces. RutuParna Farms might not be a star-rated property with a swimming pool or spa. Neither do they boast of crystal silverware and all the bells and whistles of a star experience. But they succeed in taking you back to the days when life was simpler and sustainable, and happiness was not just a word, but a way of life. Shreenivas Gadewar

DAILY TARIFF • AC room – INR 6,000 per couple; INR 2,000 extra for additional person • Non-AC room – INR 5,000 per couple; INR 1,500 extra for additional person

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

spa scape

Knocking on

HEAVEN'S DOOR Tired? Stressed? Irritable? Schedule a Heavenly Spa therapy at The Westin Pune Koregaon Park and rejuvenate your exhausted muscles in the soothing confines of their tranquil rooms.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

spa scape

o stay in a hotel is ever complete for me without indulging in at least one therapy at its spa. My excuse is that this is the only way I can retain my stance like the Greek hero Atlas without any inconvenient shrugging. During a visit to Westin Pune Koregaon Park, after checking into my room, I immediately headed

to its spa. Before selecting the right spa treatment for me, I had a consultation with the spa manager, Dr Darshana Sawale. I was keen to try something new and hearing that Westin's Heavenly Spa was its award-winning offering I decided to give it a go. For the uninitiated, the Asia Spa Awards - 2013 nominated Heavenly Spa for the Best Spa interiors (Hotels and Resorts). Dr. Sawale added that the Heavenly Spa treatments are a signature of Westin hotels globally and include Aspire massage, Energize scrub, Revive facial, Renewal ritual and the Heavenly signature massage. This 60-minute treatment is from shoulder to toe while the CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

90-minute covers the entire body from head to toe. Sold with all this information, I opted for it and was escorted through a cavernous path to the treatment room. Each therapy room thankfully has an attached steam-cumshower room and a washroom. After changing into the velvety soft robes, my therapist, Apuii, served us a Blood Orange Elixir

to detoxify. Sadly, the drink came from a bottle, while we would have much preferred some freshly brewed white tea or evenly freshly squeezed lime juice instead. Apuii then asked me to pick my troubled thoughts and place them in a small wicker basket â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just like Harry Potter did with the Pensieve. I thought it was too small for my world weariness, but went with the program anyway. Next she asked me to choose from three stones each of which were engraved with a word: Hope, Love or Gratitude. Since the elixir of love was sloshing in every part of my being already, I chose Hope.

SOOTHING WAVES OF RELAXATION The treatment begins, and ends, with a quick ring on a Buddhist prayer bowl to fill the room with tranquility. I think it is also an astute way to clock the start and end of the massage. Apuii asked me to lie down on the spa bed that had a heated quilt containing rice, orange peel, clove and all-spices. Interestingly, after being heated in

a microwave, this quilt emits moist heat that relieves stress and soreness of back, neck and shoulder muscles and acts as a painkiller by reducing the Vata from the body. The warm sensation spread all across my entire back and I tried to nestle as deep as the bed would allow, while sniffing deeply of the orange peel emanating from it. The lights dimmed, the soothing music started straining through the hidden speakers as Akuii started slathering white tea aloe oil lavishly on my person. Later Dr. Sawale informed us that this is a signature oil of the Heavenly Spa brand and even the bath amenities 89

The treatment begins, and ends, with a quick ring on a Buddhist prayer bowl to fill the room with tranquility. I think it is also an astute way to clock the start and end of the massage. and diffuser oil used at the spas contain white tea aloe essence. The soothing fragrance of this oil relaxes the mind and nourishes the skin. Akuii gradually massaged it throughout the body beginning with the head, then the torso, hands, legs and ending at the back. I dozed off intermittently during the treatment listening to the chirping of the birds courtesy the relaxing music. After an hour of massaging, Akuii guided me on the use of the steam room and left me to sweat it out there. A quick shower later, I headed out with a goofy satisfied grin plastered on my face, prepared to deal with anything the world and its aunt threw at me. One thing that I appreciated at Westin spa was the overwhelming sense of calmness pervading the space. Most spas, while silent havens, still have some ambient sound emanating from somewhere. Westin's spa was in its own zone of soothing white noise! The obvious choice at most spas are the traditional Thai or Ayurvedic massages. I am glad I chose the Heavenly Spa - because clichĂŠd as it sounds, we did slip into heaven on earth - if only for an hour and half. Vinita Bhatia 90

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

Inspirations

From the art and science of molecular gastronomy.

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

LISTINGS - NATIONAL

Pukka Tea launched in India Pukka Herbs, UK’s largest organic tea company, entered the Indian market with an exotic range of black, green and fruit teas, imbued with flavour and organic goodness. Discerning Indian consumers can buy from a range of 10 signature teas including Vanilla Chai, Peppermint & Licorice, Love, Three Ginger, Revitalise, Detox, Relax, Three Mint, Cleanse, and Night Time. The company will add more flavors and blends in the upcoming months. Courtyard by Marriott, Bhopal introduces Bay Leaf Courtyard by Marriott, Bhopal has introduced ‘Bay Leaf ’, the city’s first and only fine dining restaurant where guests can enjoy progressive preparations like delicately marinated Scottish Scallops, Crisp Fried Soft Shell Crab, Potato Cheese and Chilly Galette, Mint and Coriander Spiced Rajasthani Pithaud and Pan Seared Chicken Tikka Pate. Those who prefer traditional Indian dishes can try Makkai Aur Khoye Ki Seekh, Bhuney masaley ka paneer, Booraani jhinga, Tulsi murgh ki chap, Cheena ‘qasar e pukhtan’, Subz ka muzzaffar, Murgh hare masala ka korma, Sarson machli, Zaffrani murg biryani and much more. Chefs Ratan Kumar and Ajay Chaudhary said they designed a contemporary menu giving different dimensions to traditional Indian dishes for their guests who have tried various cuisines during their travels worldwide. Elton Hurtis, GM of Courtyard by Marriott Bhopal added that Bay Leaf will offer a culinary delight which will most definitely relate to a total dining experience; a very fine one. “We have continued to innovate and have created our own local address in Bhopal and I do hope our guests relish what we have on offer at Bay Leaf,” he stated.

Started in 2002 by co-founders Sebastian Pole and Tim Westwell with just three varieties of teas, Pucca Herbs has over 35 different varieties of organic herbal, green and black tea blends. Since its inception in the UK, the company has been working with Indian farmers to source the quality organic herbs and spices, under strict quality controls. Pukka only uses medicinal grade herbs to optimize health and wellbeing. Talking about why India is special to them, Tim said, “We have been heavily inspired by Ayurveda that has its roots in India and we practice ‘the art of living wisely’ in everything we do at Pukka – from formulating teas to our choice of herbs, to the principles we adopt in managing our business. We chose the name ‘Pukka’ because of its meaning – top quality, authentic or genuine.” Pukka Tea is available at leading organic and retail stores like Food World Gourmet, Godrej Nature’s Basket and Spencer’s retail as well as online stores like BigBasket. com. The teas have a price bracket of INR 375 to INR 400 per box, comprising 20 tea bags each.

McDonald’s Happy Meal now comes with books McDonald’s is offering books with its Happy Meals for the first time in India. Under the initiative, it will offer almost 7.5 lakh books throughout August and September 2014, which will include limited edition books that feature fun and playful themes to make Family Time, a Happy Time. The books, sold as part of Happy Meals, were developed in partnership with Dorling Kindersley (DK) and Scholastic Inc. The brand aims to distribute nearly 2 million distinctive, educational books over the next three years in the country. This is part of McDonald’s commitment to provide children with entertaining books that also enhance their knowledge through fun. 96

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LISTINGS - NATIONAL

DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel now in Ahmedabad Hilton Worldwide has signed an agreement with Hirise Hospitality Pvt Ltd for setting up DoubleTree by Hilton in Ahmedabad. This structure will be located in the central business district just off Sarkhej - Gandhinagar Highway, near Satellite Road, which is a short distance from the city centre. It will offer easy access to prime business and commercial hubs as well as a range of dining, shopping and entertainment options. The 174-room hotel will feature three dining outlets, an outdoor swimming pool, 24-hour fitness centre and a full service spa. The conference and event facilities at the hotel will include a versatile 9,000-square foot space ideal for mid- sized business events and social gatherings, and a 24-hour business centre. Guests at DoubleTree by Hilton Ahmedabad will be greeted with the characteristic chocolate chip cookie at check-in and an array of upscale amenities and guest services and the ‘Create A Rewarding Experience’ culture. “We are delighted with the opportunity to partner with Hirise Hospitality for our foray into Ahmedabad, a city renowned for being home to some of the largest industries along with its rich cultural background in music and the arts,” said Daniel Welk, VP-Operations – India, Hilton Worldwide. CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

Myra Vineyards launches Two-Headed Bird brand Bangalore-based Myra Vineyards has announced the launch of an entry-level wine brand under the name Two-Headed Bird. This Indian single varietal wine will initially be introduced across the states of Karnataka and Maharashtra for INR 330 for a 750 ml bottle. The Two-Headed Bird wines will be available in Shiraz (red) and Sauvignon Blanc (white) varietals. The straw yellow-coloured Sauvignon Blanc wine with herbaceous hints gives a taste full of character - fresh, semi-dry and harmonious. This easy-going wine has a light medium body with a round taste and should be served at 10°C temperature and goes best with medium-spicy food, especially lightly-flavoured Asian fare. 97

LISTINGS - INTERNATIONAL Renaissance Beijing Wangfujing brings style and comfort to Beijing Renaissance Hotels has debuted its second hotel in Beijing with the introduction of Renaissance Beijing Wangfujing, a 329-room stylish hotel that overlooks the famed Forbidden City on historic Wangfujing Street. The two-sided building faces the Forbidden City on one side and Wangfujing Street on the other The lobby design reflects the 24/7 work patterns of the modern business traveller, while each contemporary designed guestroom and suite offers an expressive style with a soothing colour palette, complemented by an artful blend of luxury amenities including plush bedding, flat-screen televisions and complimentary wireless high-speed internet. Destination dining includes Hutong Place, an exclusive venue for private dining and entertainment, with imperial Qing Dynasty Palace cuisine; authentic Cantonese cuisine at residential-style signature Chinese restaurant Wanli; signature cocktails and live music at R Bar; fresh open kitchen fare at all-day restaurant Food Studio. Distinctive guest programming include the 24-hour Navigator service – a lifestyle hospitality concierge featuring hotel Ambassadors specially trained to bring the local destination to life for guests, and live entertainment events showcasing emerging music, culinary, art and more. Churrasco Night at The Address Dubai Mall Dine at The Address Dubai Mall’s Cabana and you can figure out just how much spice your taste buds can handle. Try the fiery Churrasco fiesta feast, serenaded by Latin guitar at the exclusive poolside restaurant every Thursday night. For the uninformed, Churrasco is a South American specialty for barbecuing meat fillets wood or charcoal fire. For AED 220 per person with soft beverages and AED 320 per person with selected beverages, you can sample unlimited skewers of succulent beef, lamb and poultry. What’s more, these will be sizzled to perfection and carved ‘rodizio-style’ at your table. Now isn’t that a great way to start your weekend! Bacardi brings Cuban heritage to life Bacardi has released ‘The Spirit of Bacardi’, a graphic novel that tells the stories behind the Bacardi family and the company’s origins in Cuba. Created by legendary graphic novel talent, this is a unique collaboration between writer Warren Ellis and artist Michael Allred and is available for free download on the brand’s website. The Spirit of Bacardi focuses on Emilio Bacardi, son of founder Don Facundo Bacardi Massó, and his tireless work for Cuban independence in the late 1800s. Emilio Bacardi was repeatedly imprisoned and exiled for his belief in an independent Cuba, but persevered, eventually becoming the first freely-elected Mayor of Santiago de Cuba. The graphic novel also touches upon early challenges the Bacardi family faced and overcame – including an earthquake that destroyed their city and a fire that ravaged their distillery – and ends with the creation of the original Cuba Libre cocktail in 1900. “Working on this project gave me the chance to bring to life a time and a place I’ve never worked with before – Cuba in the late 19th century,” said Allred. “I loved the idea of adding Bacardi rum to the ink to make it a real part of the graphic novel’s DNA. It’s something I have never done before and makes the artwork unique.”

CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

LISTINGS - INTERNATIONAL

Debut of St. Regis, Chengdu

Aloft Cupertino showcases the hotel industry’s first robotic butler Aloft Hotels announced the appointment of A.L.O. as the hotel brand’s first Botlr (robotic butler). This cyber associate made his debut at Aloft Cupertino in August, making Aloft the first major hotel brand to hire a robot for both front and back of house duties. In this role, A.L.O. the Botlr will be on call as a robotic operative where it will be assisting the Aloft talent in delivering amenities to guest rooms. Professionally ‘dressed’ in a custom shrink-wrapped, vinyl collared uniform and nametag, A.L.O. will modestly accept tweets as tips as its wheels whizz from task to task. Brian McGuinness, Global Brand Leader, Starwood’s Specialty Select Brands said, “A.L.O. has the work ethic of Wall-E, the humor of Rosie from The Jetsons and reminds me of my favorite childhood robot, R2-D2. We are excited to have it join our team.” Prior to its role at Aloft, A.L.O. studied at Savioke — a new company which the robotics community has been eagerly anticipating for this first class of robots — where it double majored in rudimentary tasks and hospitality. Transitioning to its new role as Botlr, A.L.O. will now facilitate and prioritize multiple guest deliveries, communicate effortlessly with guests and various hotel platforms, as well as efficiently navigate throughout the property – including the elevator – with ease. The appointment of A.L.O. represents yet another forward-looking milestone for Aloft, known for its industry-first smart check-in program, ‘Cool Concierge’ program and piloting Apple TV inroom services. CaLDRON Magazine September 2014

The newly opened St. Regis, Chengdu is ideally located at the intersection of the city’s business and luxury retail districts, and steps away from Tianfu Square and Chun Xi Road. As the capital of Sichuan province in Southwest China, Chengdu is often referred to as ‘the Silicon Valley of China’ and is home to more than 252 Fortune 500 companies. The 279 luxuriously appointed guestrooms and suites are artfully designed to blend the residential Art Deco style of the 1920s with traditional elements of Sichuan culture and discreet state-of-theart technology. In a nod to the city’s epicurean pedigree as UNESCO’s first City of Gastronomy in Asia, the hotel will feature six distinct restaurants and lounges. These include the all-day diner Social; Yan Ting, a specialty Chinese restaurant; Yun Fu, with four private dining rooms; Decanter, Chengdu’s only dedicated wine bar; Vantage XXVII, an outdoor sky bar with spectacular city skyline; and The Drawing Room, offering the signature St. Regis afternoon tea and champagne sabering ritual as well as the Chuan Mary, a spicier version of the famous St. Regis Bloody Mary cocktail, re-imagined for Chengdu with Sichuan peppercorn oil and pickled chili. The Iridium Spa, exclusive to St. Regis Hotels & Resorts, offers a blissful experience including nine treatment rooms, sauna and steam rooms, and a modern fitness center. The luxury hotel also offers indoor and outdoor swimming pools for in-house guests and St. Regis Athletic Club members. Richard Deutl, GM of The St. Regis Chengdu said, “We will offer our guests the highest level of personalized service delivered by our signature St. Regis butlers, who have traded in their silver trays for smart phones to cater to a new generation of luxury travelers.”

Awww.. did it have to end?

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CaLDRON Magazine September 2014