CaLDRON Magazine August + September 2015

AVAILABLE ON THE WEB VIA ISSUU. AVAILABLE ON THE MOBILE AT GOOGLE PLAY STORE AND APPLE APP STORE (VIA MAGZTER AND ISSUU)

AUG-SEP 2015 DUAL ISSUE

PALEO: A DIET THAT WORKS! PAGE 38

5 7 15

CUP CAKE PLACES IN NEW YORK

CITIES COVERED THIS MONTH REVIEWS IN THIS ISSUE

5 4 22

IMMUNITY BOOSTING DRINKS

MAKE RESTAURANT GUESTS HAPPY!

KNOW YOUR PARSI FOOD

PARSI DISHES YOU MUST TRY!

GET TO KNOW YOUR DIM SUM

A WEEK SPENT IN LADAKH

BELLY WOES: GASTROENTERITIS!

2 STEP BY STEP RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE

DELICIOUS RECIPES!

CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015 | 1

Delhi/NCR • Mumbai • Bangalore • Kolkata • Chennai • Pune • Dubai • New York

CONTENTS 08 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36

48 64 84 88 100 136 176

REVIEWS Uzzuri Delhi & Bar, New Delhi Latest Recipe, Gurgaon Vintage 31 Bistro, New Delhi Tangerine & Salt, Gurgaon Biere Club, Bangalore Taj Vivanta Saturday Brunch, Bangalore Fenny's Lounge & Kitchen, Bangalore Absolute Thai, Chennai Quench, Mumbai Hoppipola, Mumbai Mejwani Thali @ Four Points by Sheraton, Vashi Afraa Restaurant & Lounge, Kolkata Cucina, JW Marriott, Dubai Ibby's Falafel, New York NY Restaurant Week, New York

Aug-Sep 2015

90 136

64

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ISSUE BONUS Correcting Guest Experiences Gone Wrong Good Food Equals Safe Food The Bengal Cookbook The Hundred Foot Journey Belly Woes: Gastroenteritis The Truth About Saturated Fat, Cholesterol and Heart Disease CaLMEET #1 @ The Piano Man

48

88 44 94 146 166

TRAVEL Heaven Descended: A Week in Ladakh Heart, In the Right Place A Legacy of Elegance: Lalit Great Eastern, Kolkata The Big Terrain Rider: Nissan Terrano 10

40 Finally, A Diet That Works

84

After reading about the many diets out there that promise health to their followers and experiencing quite a few of them, Charis Bhagianathan finally found one that works - the Paleo diet! Not only did she think it effective, but she also felt the basic premise to be simple and very do-able.

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FOOD & FLAVOURS 68 A Thousand Years of Fusion 82 Top 5 Cupcake Places in New York 90 You Dim Sum, You Lose Some MATTERS OF SPIRIT 80 Reinventing Like the Phoenix

72 74 76 78 86 89 106 108 110 112 114 116 118 120 122 124 126 128 130 132 134 162 164

54 56 58 60 62

RECIPES Boti ni Akuri Bhaji Dana Ma Gos Lagan nu Stew Maiwhalan Muri Ghanto The Hundred Foot Omelette Pesto and Chili Bacon Pull-Apart Rolls Cheese Gougeres Whole Wheat Atta Bread Kheema Stuffed Pao Pain au Chocolat Pomfret Rawa Masala Fry Goan Green Masala Fish Fry Coconut Masala Mussels Macchi ni Curry Illish Paturi Kesar Kaju Katli Zaffrani Sheer Khurma Atta Sooji ka Halwa Channar Malpua Hayagreeva Angel Hair Pasta with Shrimp Scampi Rose Smoked Pulled Chicken with Rumali Roti and Avocado Mint Chutney DRINKS & COCKTAILS Muskmelon, Bottle Gourd and Lemon Nectar Pineapple, Bell Pepper and Fennel Seed Nectar Apple, Beetroot, Carrot and Mint Nectar Wheatgrass, Cucumber and Coriander Nectar Orange, Celery and Ginger Nectar

68

Step by step recipe

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CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015 | 3

The Team

useful information

SID KHULLAR (Delhi/NCR) Founder

WEBSITE

sid.khullar@chefatlarge.in PARUL PRATAP SHIRAZI (Delhi/NCR) events editor

parul.shirazi@chefatlarge.in NATASHA ALI (Bangalore) associate editor

natasha.ali@chefatlarge.in JASWINDER SINGH (delhi/ncr) wine & beverages editor

jaswinder.singh@chefatlarge.in CHARIS ALFRED BHAGIANTHAN (New york) associate reviewer

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4 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

Cook at home partner

editorial

I

f you missed us in August and all of September, it probably means we're doing something right. We spent the last few weeks revamping our processes, training new folks who came on board and in essence, making Chef at LargeTM and CaLDRON MagazineTM even better for you. To make up for our disappearance, this issue is a whopping 180 pages stuffed full of the most brilliant recipes and articles and is bound to keep you busy for a few days, more if you decide to try the recipes.

As it turns out, this time, we're quite a bit about health. This month's cover story is on the Paleo diet, which is one of the few such out there that I find works. What's not to work? When you read the article you'll find yourself nodding in agreement and wondering why you didn't think of it yourself. Besides the Paleo diet, we also bring to you a quick reckoner to better understand gastroenteritis, which you'll agree us foodies are particularly susceptible to. We have also this time, included a very technical and very informative guide to better understanding the relationship between saturated fat, cholesterol and heart disease. This is one area where myths flourish and we believe this article will dispel many of those.

I'm also quite sure you'll enjoy reading about the journey of Parsi food and your families will love the included Parsi recipes.

If there was ever a time I felt truly connected to Chef at Large, it was this month. Processes needed revamping and there was no doubt it would be a month of hard work for all of us, including three very new team members. Each and every person in the team and I mean that, rose to the challenge and ensured everything in the system worked as well as it should. Some of us took on new roles and some of us shed older ones.

Everything's squeaky clean now and we're all set for future issues!

We've also begun Events that promise to be a load of fun for CaL members and which we're going to roll out in 10 cities by next year.

Don't forget to come!

Stay well.

Sid

CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015 | 5

BORN THIS MONTH

JOSEPH JOHNSON ■ BORN AUGUST 1ST, 1984

LIVING LEGEND studying West African cuisine, before returning to cook at several New York City restaurants, including Tropico, Jane, Tribeca Grill, and Centro Vinoteca.

PHOTO BY GARY DUFF • TEXT BY WIKIPEDIA

In 2011, Johnson (26) competed and won Bravo's Rocco's Dinner Party cooking competition, quickly catching the eye of restaurateur Alexander Smalls. Smalls invited Johnson to breakfast to introduce the concept of Afro-Asian cooking to him.

A year later, Johnson joined Smalls on a 16-day trip to Ghana, where they prepared a series of American-themed dinners.

Upon their return, Smalls and Johnson developed 36 different menus that would ultimately be narrowed down to one Afro-Asian inspired menu for The Cecil in 2013.

J

oseph 'JJ' Johnson is an awardwinning chef at The Cecil and Minton's in Harlem.

Johnson was born in 1984 in Long Island, New York, but spent his youth in the Poconos, where at the age of seven was inspired to become a chef.

After seeing a commercial for The Culinary Institute of America,

Johnson told his mother that he wanted to become a chef. But, it was only after watching his Puerto Rican grandmother serve up butternut squash soup and other ethnic dishes, that he knew he had to.

After graduating from The Culinary Institute of America, Johnson spent time in Ghana

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Since its opening, the restaurant has garnered several awards including "Best New Restaurant in America (Esquire).

Johnson himself was ranked among Forbes’ 30 Under 30 in the Food & Wine category (2014), Zagat’s 30 Under 30 (2014) and Eater's Young Guns (2014). ■

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RESTAURANT REVIEW SID KHULLAR / DELHI UZZURI DELI & BAR

Close, But No Cigar Uzzuri Deli & Bar is off to a great start but needs to iron out some wrinkles. As long as you are willing to micro-manage your order and accept the odd goof up, it is one of the places you should earmark for a visit the next time you are in Connaught Place.

A fortnight ago, I found myself lunching at Uzzuri Deli & Bar and despite how unassuming it

SID KHULLAR

C

onnaught Place appears to have located its trousers and is donning them with vengeance.

A far cry from a time in the recent past when this brilliant commercial area was anathema for entrepreneurs due to its deserted corridors and nearly complete lack of leisure visitors, we are now witness to more and more new openings in Connaught Place. A most interesting section of Connaught Place, for me, is Janpath, and on Janpath are the triplets of Cafe Coffee Day, Beer Cafe and Uzzuri Deli & Bar, all three in a row, each representing a very different need and each seemingly well suited to fulfil it.

Cafe Coffee Day has good coffee and awful food. Beer Cafe has good beer and awful food. Uzzuri Deli & Bar is therefore ideally placed to fill that gap. Does it?

The Salmon Nicoise was superbly done and I couldn't ask for more.

looks from the outside, it’s just as spacious and brightly lit on the inside. Walking past the cold counter stuffed with baked good, I found myself in a 32 cover space, the whole done in shades of wood from blond to a light mocha. A cool, light and airy area, the dining room is at ground level while the bar is located upstairs. The bar menu was small, with what I thought were tasteful selections in multiple categories including

8 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

a neat cocktails and mocktails section, in addition to smoothies, shakes and other soft beverages.

The food menu at Uzzuri however is another animal and a splendid one at that. Most menus in the city display an overwhelmingly ingratiating temperament; were they people, they would have been the sort who have a perpetual ear to ear grin plastered on with their heads rapidly nodding

My plan was to ask for a soup, a salad, a vegetarian and nonvegetarian starter and a two main courses, vegetarian and non-vegetarian. Normal dining protocol states the dishes arrive in the order above though one could argue the position of the starter.

Things were a little different at Uzzuri. I started with the salad and ended with the soup, the starter and main course in between.

My first, a Salmon Niçoise (INR 525++), was superbly done and I couldn’t ask for more from a Niçoise. There’s something incredibly comforting about a Niçoise – is it the eggs or the potatoes or both? Perhaps the dressing? Maybe the crunch of the fresh leaves interacting with the softness of the eggs and potatoes?

I’m never sure. What I do know is that every texture in this salad complements the others and I tend to eat the lot together; a bit of egg, a bit of potato, a bean, a leaf and so on. This one had a piece of slightly overdone fried salmon perched atop the pile with a dollop of olive

tapenade crowning the lot, making an already interesting Niçoise even more so. Crisp salmon skin is so very good, isn’t it? Add to that boiled eggs, boiled baby potatoes, olive tapenade, crunchy lettuce and beans, and we have a winner.

Next were a pile of crunchy, oily, overfried vegetables fritters masquerading as the Vegetable Tempura (INR 275) I had asked for, followed by a platter of fish pakodas, each sporting a thick, soft and leathery coating of fried batter, instead of the Traditional Fish & Chips (INR 375) I thought I had ordered. The kitchen would do well to note that there exist different sorts of batters for different sorts of batter fried dishes. My vegetarian main course, Three Cheese Leek Soufflé (INR 375), couldn’t be served, my waiter citing a lack of moulds, which was strange. Considering individual portions of soufflés are baked in individual moulds of which a reasonable restaurant must at least own a set of 6, it is quite unlikely that the entire set would go missing.

Rohit Singh, a customer and corporate communications professional thought the Chili Lime Tilapia he had ordered during his previous visit and raved about on his social media account, would be a good choice for lunch that day too. Wrong choice apparently. “It was disappointing.”, he said, “The exotic vegetables I loved the last time, like baby carrots, were missing this time and the quantity of fish served is noticeably less too in addition to the fish not being as fresh as the last time.” I also observed his other

order, a cold coffee, being botched to the extent of an inedible product delivered to his table.

Lamb Shank (INR 475), my remaining main, was a good example of a brilliant winter dish.

A shank of lamb surrounded by crisp vegetables laid atop a smooth pile of potatoes mashed with wholegrain mustard, the lot drenched in possibly the meatiest brown gravy. Delicious, no doubt but better suited to a wintry evening than a summer afternoon.

I can’t wait for winters to arrive so I can return for Uzzuri’s delicious lamb shank platter. Finally, my meal ended with the soup of the day, Cream of Broccoli (INR 180), which was served with two slices of garlic toast and delicious too.

While it did need what nearly every other vegetable soup in the city needs, a good vegetable stock, it still was an example of one of the better vegetable soups I’ve eaten.

Uzzuri Deli & Bar is off to a great start but needs to start the process of ironing out wrinkles, which I’m sure they’ll do at the earliest. In the meantime, as long as you’re willing to micro-manage your order and accept the odd goof-up, Uzzuri is one of the places you should earmark for a visit the next time you’re in Connaught Place. ■

2/5

PRICE: INR 2500++ (Meal for two)

ADDRESS: 1/3, Scindia House, Next to Tribhuvandas Jewellers, Janpath, New Delhi PHONES: 011 436 56516, 17

CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015 | 9

RESTAURANT REVIEW

agreement to every request, heard or unheard. The Uzzuri menu on the other hand I would compare to Jeeves; good posture, confident and capable of delivering. Then again perhaps I spoke too soon, as I was denied two of my first choices from the menu, my waiter citing unavailability. Nonetheless, the menu was still a delight to behold – a well stuffed breakfast section complete with classic egg preparations like Eggs Florentine, an overflowing selection of appetizers in addition to some very tantalising sandwiches, burgers, pastas, pizzas, main and desserts.

RESTAURANT REVIEW PARUL PRATAP SHIRAZI / DELHI LATEST RECIPE, LE MERIDIEN GURGAON

S

The Latest Recipe for Lasting Memories

ome Chefs can do no wrong! And that’s a bold statement to make – I make it nonetheless. This update is a long time coming. For one thing, it is very easy to imagine this kitchen as one helluva fun place to be! I’m talking

about Le Meridien Gurgaon’s all day dining, Latest Recipe. Having retained most of the original staff, it is a pleasure to have access to the sense of awe, albeit with a different brand – it is the same delight even then! I suggest you consider the menu like a journey, across the

When Chef Tanveer designs a menu, you can picture a scene from Alinea's kitchen or the French Laundry's. It's not just very good food; its the thought, the planning, the flavour palates involved that make all the difference. span of Asia, a bit longer in the Far East and perhaps not long enough in the Middle. Nevertheless, this menu is revelation of flavours and a learning for the lovers of good food!

PHOTO NOT FROM ESTABLISHMENT

Starting with the Prawn Cocktail: Shrimps Get Wild (INR 650) was possibly an ace for Chef Tanveer.

This was the dish I call the ‘hook’ – the moment you know this meal is going to be fabulous! Apart from the expected freshness and balance, the key to this dish was the choice of mayo Chef chose to use, Japanese Mayo or some say, Kewpie.

Shrimp Cocktail 10 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

Being thinner and tangier, there is a whole different bouquet of flavours to play with here and the

consistency is perfect. Calm the palate with either the Charred Corn Tabbouleh with feta salad and falafel (INR 550) or the Quinoa Roasted Pumpkin Salad with Pine Nuts and Goat’s Cheese (INR 550), both of which do terrific justice to the vegetarian angle in this menu.

The charred corn is smoky and the Tabboulleh is corn-sweet and light, while the Quinoa brings in a fluffiness with a perfect caramelized sweetness from roasted pumpkin.

Don’t miss the Chard Bread with the salad. The nuttiness is all the texture you need to set off the pine nuts; it’s like drama you can taste!

Then things continue to get exciting! The humble sounding Cabbage and Onion Salad with plum, avocado, seaweed and tanuki (INR 550) ups the ante with the awesome Asian twist of Tanuki. These tempura crumbs are a perfect pick me up the for the limp but hugely flavourful seaweed and if you’re a meat eater gone vegetarian, this is going to bring back some amazing memories of the glory days!

So many textures, onion crunch, buttery beans, soft avocado, moist seaweed, intelligent – Tanuki, it was very chirashi like, this salad!

The menu goes on to become a vegetarian’s delight with Harra Moth ki Chaat (INR 550) and Dahi ka Cheela (INR 550) but the real stars would have to be the Blow Torched Salmon with Wakame salad and pineapple wafu dressing (INR 650) which tastes just as good as it sounds and has not a trace of propane to boot! Wafu is a Japanese vinaigrette of sesame oil, wasabi and rice vinegar. Add pineapple to that and you have the Japanese penchant for perfection at it’s best! The Salmon is served in rosettes, like a cousin of Sashimi, with a hint of green apple in case the pineapple isn’t tropical enough. The Chicken Oyster and

“

So many textures, onion crunch, buttery beans, soft avocado, moist seaweed, intelligent – Tanuki, it was very chirashi like, this salad!

Wild Mushroom Salad with wasabi aioli and tobiko (INR 650) complements the Salmon very well. fleshy mushrooms, rich with fish roe and peppery arugula leaves to make it more earthy. Also the aioli is bottle worthy. It has everything to do with the combination of mushrooms, shimeji, king brown and shiitake, beautifully done!

If you wish to bring in a bit of red meat instead, there is the Warm Vietnamese Shaking Black Pepper Lamb Salad with Lychee (INR 650); hot and cold at play, soft lamb with Japanese flavours, a lick of spice and then the cooling lychees.

You see how it works, almost like magic!

Don’t leave the fun part in all this food and I don’t mean dessert! Do try the Okonomiyaki (cabbage and corn or prawn and bacon) (INR 650). This super fun Japanese style savoury pancake looks like a pizza.

It is flour based with a variety of ingredients in the batter, which is then poured on hot skillets or pan grilled to make wholesome mini meals. I chose prawn and bacon, the combination of the sweet sea and the salty fat put this in my top three dishes of the day and those were some hard choices! Pair your meal with a variety of specially curated cocktails and mocktails, and enjoy! ■

3/5

PRICE: INR 5000++ (Meal for two)

ADDRESS: Le Meridien Gurgaon, Sector 26, MG Road, Gurgaon PHONES: 011 331 05305

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

PHOTO NOT FROM ESTABLISHMENT

Okonomiyaki

RESTAURANT REVIEW SID KHULLAR / DELHI VINTAGE 31

Counting Flowers on the Wall

T

From a certain perspective, there are two types of restaurants – those started by hospitality folks and those by amateurs. The former are bound to have the right processes in place, the right words to the right people in the right manner and quite likely, the same food and decor you’ve seen a hundred times before. The latter, I find progress slowly, stumbling and learning from each fall and to the experienced eye will have a dozen things out of place that could do with relocating. What’s

usually different however about restaurants led by amateurs, who haven’t given in to the mediocre visions of restaurant consultants, is the food and the overall look of the premises. There’s usually a refreshing quality about both, mostly because we probably haven’t seen them before. Such interiors cause us to do a doubletake every few paces and that’s what I did at Vintage 31. Started

by Vimi and K.D. Singh, an exIndian Air Force couple (he flew fighter aircraft), Vintage 31 is what I can never expect a professionally managed restaurant to be, and I mean that in the nicest manner possible.

he urge to become a restaurateur has never been more evident as it is today.

Combined with rising levels of income, overseas exposure, information access and dietary experimentation, more and The decor at Vintage 31 seems an more entrepreneurs appear to be attempt to recreate a Victorian choosing the culinary route than other traditional and possibly less risky alternatives. Is it perception of glamour that attracts or the (fictitious) promise of untold wealth? Perhaps it is the satisfying prospect of feeding people that appears? We can never be sure of any of this but for the fact that there are plenty of restaurant start-ups out there, most belonging to folks not from hospitality backgrounds. I visited one of these The Caramel Custard was light and delicious though I thought a little darker a few weeks ago; Vintage 31 at caramel would have been nicer.

Delhi’s Meher Chand Market.

Given it's provenance, Vintage 31 has a few rough edges to be rubbed away and a few wrinkles to be ironed out. The decor however is great, the food, honest making the whole experience quite quaint.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

We loved the caramelised shallots that accompanied the pork chops.

parlour, with classic dining room chairs used for most part at the tables, all-cushion wingback chairs and other furniture in the easily spotted Queen Anne style with the distinctively curved cabriole legs though the staircase could have used balusters to keep the theme going. Unlikely for the look were the stucco surfaced inside walls though I thought the handpainted roses adorning parts of nearly all the walls, quite breathtakingly beautiful. The look continues with the use of white porcelain jugs for water service and ends with the menu, which definitely isn’t Victorian.

Starting with a Seafood Chowder (INR 310) that Avanti thought had the right flavors but could have used the traditional thickening method, we continued our meal with a portion of Stuffed Mushrooms (INR 285), which we thought delightful, with their stuffing of cheese and yoghurt mixed with herbs. I’ve begun gravitating towards salads and other forms of food that feel healthier than my usual haunts and

chose the Boiled Egg Salad (INR 330) that afternoon along with a portion of baked Chicken Wings (INR 350). While the egg salad was filling and well made, with strips of ham and sliced boiled eggs in a forest of dressed greens, the wings were a bit of a surprise; abundantly crisp inspite of being baked. I’d love to know how they did it!

Given our shared memories of sweating vegetable cutlets in foil boxes on the Indian Railways, we couldn’t resist asking for a portion of Indian Railway Cutlets (INR 350) and the default main course if it exists on a menu – Pork Chops (INR 475). The cutlets, which needed better plating (potato cutlets with potato wedges) weren’t really reminiscent of the railways to me and I also thought the (unnecessary) flour binding changed the texture in an undesirable manner.

The pork chops however were quite nice and the stroke of genius with this platter were the caramelised shallots. Caramelised onions I’ve eaten with pork

chops though I never thought caramelised shallots would make so much of a difference! Roughly mashed potatoes and a mild demi glace completed the job to an end most memorable. We finished up with a well made Caramel Custard (INR 225).

Given the non-hospitality backgrounds of its owners, Vintage 31 has a few rough edges to be rubbed away and a few wrinkles to be ironed out. The decor however is great, the food, honest making the whole experience quite quaint.

You’re likely to have a good time when you visit and if you brush up against any of those rough edges, do seek out and let the owners, Vimi and K.D. Singh, know.

They’re happy to listen. ■

3/5

PRICE: INR 2000++ (Meal for two)

ADDRESS: Shop -31, Mehar Chand Market, Lodhi Rd, Lodhi Colony, Delhi 110003 PHONES: +91 98738 17391

CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015 | 13

RESTAURANT REVIEW PARUL PRATAP SHIRAZI / DELHI CAFE TANGERINE & SALT

No Tequila Required!

G

urgaon is spreading and for the lack of a better term, it’s quite like wild fire!

The good part is that what comes with the expansion is a new set of strip malls and stand-alone restaurants that make weekend binges easier both on the wallet and the palate. Yes, there are pockets which attract crowds but if you know where to get good food and good value you won’t

be stuck grappling for parking or tables. That’s how we found Café Tangerine & Salt. I personally love the name; I once did Tequila shots where the lemon wedge was substituted with a tangerine wedge and it’s an awesome memory to relive - that’s what cafes should do, bring back something good or create something better!

the tables were a bit too close, it tends to create a sense of camaraderie which comes with a café that has a thriving bar. The bar is a big talking point; it holds court by the back wall and takes up most of it, adorned with quirky number plates that have names of local

Check out Café Tangerine and Salt for great deals on liquor, a family brunch, good service and the chance to win a discount if you play darts!

The café itself is pretty big, over 70 covers and even though I felt villages and alpha numeric names of popular drinks. I wanted to take home the Old Monk one! There are mason jars converted into light fixtures, bird cages that twinkle and 80/90s retro music, which is more than enough to have me hooked! As much as it seems like a typical beer, burger, Caesar salad sort of place, it turned out to be way more than that, considering the menu is massive and it’s hard to imagine a kitchen pull off that much!

Start with the Shish Taouk (INR 325), juicy, well cooked chicken

14 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

RESTAURANT REVIEW (which is hard to do with a lean meat!), Indian spiced (probably to keep with the local palate) but accompanied with excellent hummus and house baked pita. Follow it up with the Pizza Diavola (INR 415). I love all things devilish and in food it always translates into super hot, which the pizza wasn’t but it was hot enough. What was better was the base, perfect thin crust! I had to squeeze in a Caesar Salad (INR 275) – I believe it is the simple things that are most telling of a kitchen and even though the chicken in my salad was warm, I enjoyed the warm and cool sensation in each bite and found the dressing to be sans any artificial after taste; very appreciable.

There were two dishes I ordered rather hesitantly but it had to be done – the Braised Belgium Pork Belly (INR 695) which turned out to be great, crackle and all, and the Seafood Platter (INR 895) which could have been better. There is nothing particularly Belgian about

the belly but it is very well made for the price point and as much as I liked the Lebanese Chilli Fish and the Prawns in the seafood platter, the Calamari Rings needed a bit of work!

The meal was duly completed with a round of Chocolate Mousse Cannoli (INR 130). I loved it, it could be have been more crisp but then the filling was so perfect I can’t complain. This is the only café I have found in town that serves Cannoli! I didn’t care much for the Panna Cotta (INR 150). I found it a bit heavy and strangely enough, a bit buttery too, nothing another Cannoli couldn’t fix!

Do check out Café Tangerine and Salt for great deals on liquor, a family brunch, good service and the chance to win a discount if you play darts! They also have board games which are way better over beer than coffee and my all time favourite concept, all day breakfast! ■

“

The café itself is pretty big, over 70 covers and even though I felt the tables were a bit too close, it tends to create a sense of camaraderie which comes with a café that has a thriving bar.

3/5

PRICE: INR 2000++ (Meal for two)

ADDRESS: Good Earth City Center, Sector 50, Gurgaon 122002 PHONES: +91 99108 06727

CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015 | 15

RESTAURANT REVIEW NATASHA ALI / BANGALORE BIERE CLUB

There's More To Love At Biere Club Now! I admire and applaud The Biere Club’s efforts to keep innovating and trying different things. It adds that element of something new to try, it means new items to add to your favorites list, and of course, you’re always assured of a choice of half a dozen beers on tap to accompany your meal.

A

s Bangalore’s oldest microbrewery/brew pub, The Biere Club on Lavelle Road is a well recognized spot in town. In my four years as a resident of the city, I’ve frequented it many a time – from choosing it for birthday bashes to farewell parties and you know, just because!

In fact, there are times in the warm weather when I yearn for not just a beer, but a brew from Biere Club.

PLEASING THE LOCAL PALATE The food menu contains the old standards, of (yummy) flatbread pizzas, various kebab and mezze platters and the like, and has a whole host of new inclusions, which have been created with an eye to be crowd pleasers and cater more to the local palate than before. The Biere Club was earlier what I would term Mediterra-

The beers here are consistently good and we always have a good time. A couple of months ago, they brought out a new menu and of course, we had to see what had changed (and remained constant, too!). Thus, a pleasurable Sunday afternoon was spent, trying rather too many of the items off the new menu, enjoying some cold brews, and a wayward game of pool. (wherein my date bested me in a resolute fashion!)

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nean in its offerings, whereas now there’s quite a number of Indian flavors, as well as pastas and a few Asian dishes amongst the mains, and the ubiquitous burgers. Starters that are of the South Indian bar food styling have a place, as do the more pub grub offerings like fries, cheese platters and sliced meats.

There is a leaning towards the non vegetarian guest, but enough to

The Fish and Chips at Biere Club are nice presented and deliicous to boot

RESTAURANT REVIEW The interiors are a little busy but in a good way

keep the meat abstainers uncomplaining, too. This is an establishment that knows its way equally well around a hummus or three (Three Hummus, INR 260) as a Chilli spicy coriander chicken (INR 280). If you are a fish fan, then don’t miss out on the Rava fried fish (INR 350) or the Mini fish and chip cones, served with sea salt and malt vinegar (INR 350).

When it comes to salads, I find they do a good job with them all and though it may seem a bit of an oxymoron to have a salad with your pint, I always do here. Meaty mains run the course from English style chicken tikka (INR 400) and Chicken Massaman curry (INR 400) to Beef Stroganoff (INR 460) served in a jar and steaks, pork and lamb chops. Other than the Stroganoff, which came cutely served in a mason jar, but was not great in taste, we liked all the other offerings. I was almost scared to take a look at the desserts, fearing my two favorites would be absent, but breathed a sigh of relief! they, the sticky toffee pudding (INR 200), the warm chocolate stodge cake (INR

220), remain, as has another crowd favorite, the Knickerbockerglory sundae (INR 220). To this already decadent list has now been added, amongst others, Deep fried bounty bars with vanilla ice cream (INR 200), an ode to Elvis and State fairs, I dare say.

KEEP ON INNOVATING A lot of people might go with the 'don’t fix it if it ain’t broke' philosophy, but like their 1st floor experiment with The Chophouse (sadly now defunct), I admire and applaud The Biere Club’s efforts to keep innovating and trying different things. It adds that element of something new to try at every visit, it means you have new items to add to your favorites list, and of course, you’re always assured of a choice of half a dozen beers on tap to accompany your meal (or maybe the reverse, and some new nosh to accompany your cold brew!). However you slice it, there’s a reason The Biere Club remains a favored spot, and that has not, and will not be changing for me! ■

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The café itself is pretty big, over 70 covers and even though I felt the tables were a bit too close, it tends to create a sense of camaraderie which comes with a café that has a thriving bar.

4/5

PRICE: INR 1800++ (meal for two)

ADDRESS: No.20/2, Vittal Mallya Rd, Sampangi Rama Nagar, Bangalore PHONES: 080 421 24383

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RESTAURANT REVIEW NATASHA ALI / BANGALORE AZURE, VIVANTA BY TAJ, YESHWANTPUR

Yay For Saturday Brunch!

The vibe was of a Souk, Channapatna wooden toys for the kiddies, cheeses, sauces and potted plants for sale, and of course, a very delectable spread - that's Saturday Brunch for you at Azure.

Fast forward a quarter of a century and brunching is still a favourite pastime. However, Sunday seems to be de rigueur for this activity, and after a late Saturday night, sometimes one isn’t quite in the mood. Plus you know, Sunday: day of rest and all that. But Saturday is the start of the weekend, one is peppy, bright eyed and bushy tailed, looking for something fun to do. Vivanta by Taj, Yeshwantpur decided it was time to step into the breach and present Bangalore resi-

dents with a new option – Saturday brunch at their Mediterranean Cafe Azure. Named Mou Taverna, the vibe was of a Souk – a little marketplace, that included Channapatna wooden toys for the kiddies to buy and play with, cheeses, sauces and potted plants for sale, and of course, a very delectable spread.

We kept returning for the perfectly fried, crunchy and very delicious prawns.

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AN IMPRESSIVE SPREAD There is a lot of food, arrayed across three spaces, so make sure you take the time to walk around and get a good look, else you’re sure to miss out on some deliciousness. The outside area has live grills, including Shawarma and crunchy fried shrimp that you’re unlikely to stop after just one of.

These items, along with a few

PHOTOS BY SUDHAKAR PRABHU

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runching is something we’ve all come to adore as a weekend activity. I have fond memories of Sunday brunches that my mum made – it would vary, from paranthas and anda bhurji to bacon, sausages and eggs or farmer’s omelettes. It was something to look forward to, especially since she always rounded the meal off with one of her superb desserts.

RESTAURANT REVIEW These poached pears must not be missed when you visit!

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The outside area has live grills, including Shawarma and crunchy fried shrimp that you’re unlikely to stop after just one of.

other starters were brought to our noisy table of children and adults.

There was a bar set up in the middle of the room, with Chandon sparkling wine (avoidable if like me, you are a bit of a champagne snob), good Jacob’s Creek wine, a range of cocktails, and a lovely bartender who will happily whip up a drink to suit your palate and mood. He offered up a lemony, fizzy concoction for us when we asked for something non sweet.

Our walkabout had shown us apart from hot mains, a salad selection that was so beautifully presented that it almost seemed a sin to eat!

In particular was this Italian sushi (no not really, but that’s the most apt way to describe the look and feel of it.) prawn dish that we went back for seconds of, and as befitted a Mediterranean feast, dolmas, hummus (carrot hummus – new to us and lovely), babaghanoush, mutabbal, moutawmeh and tabbouleh. Another standout from this section was the poached pears – so good we all attacked and probably could have kept eating had there not been so much more to try.

DESSERTS HAVE THE FLOOR My brunch date dragged me to try the desserts long before we had hit mains, and a good idea it turned out to be. The spread, set up in a separate room, looked enticing and tasted delectable. The gateaux and puddings were rich and decadent, and there were a couple of lemony/ raspberry laced ones that were tart and hit the spot. After this we headed to main course, which included a pasta station, beef, chicken, jambalaya and more – the standout here was an incredible pork belly. And then we made our way back to the by now gutted dessert section to sweeten the experience before we left, the last ones to do so, too! We are all thrilled to finally have a worthy Saturday brunch to go to, and it was well worth the travel to Yeshwantpur to partake in it! ■

4/5

PRICE: INR 1600++ and 1800++ (per person, without/ with alcohol)

ADDRESS: 2275, Tumkur Road, Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore 560022 PHONES: 080 669 00111

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RESTAURANT REVIEW DR. GITA MOHAN / BANGALORE FENNY'S LOUNGE & KITCHEN

The Goan Susegado Spirit In Bangalore Warm Goan hospitality coupled with an elaborate Mediterranean and European menu that suits the Indian palate makes Fenny’s Lounge and Kitchen a popular choice in Bangalore.

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n a festive Friday afternoon, I decided to venture out for lunch in the busy neighbourhood of Koramangala in South Bangalore, a locality that offers a multitude of choices for the diehard foodie. Restaurants old and new, low-priced, mid-range and the high-end were chock-full of diners. I quickly hopped across the busy road near Forum Mall to a 3rd-floor Goan-themed restaurant, Fenny’s.

Charming Interiors Fenny’s Lounge and Kitchen is a delightful dining option with seating at various levels. The interiors are very much in tune with the Goan theme – with pub benches, mosaic chips in the flooring, ornate mirrors, low thatched doorways, and plenty of wooden beams that are the hallmark of the Portuguese style of architecture in

traditional Goan homes. There are a couple of seating arrangements at a higher level, accessed by wooden stairways, while an entire upper floor is dedicated to larger parties.

A surprising element were the Penny Farthings converted into high tables with a single round block of wood! The two nearly-century-old Bonsai trees add to the greenery in this rooftop venue. Much has been said and written about Fenny’s award-winning, record-breaking “wine bottle chandelier,” and the Limca National Record is proudly displayed at the entrance.

Though sans reservation on a busy Friday afternoon, the hostess was quick to find me a table. Almost every table was occupied, with the bar area half-full, while the woodfire pizza chef was kept on his toes throughout. The 20-feet Pizza Tower deserves special mention, because Fenny’s tower is constructed using traditional Goan laterite

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stones, along with local bricks.

This attention to detail adds to the charm of Fenny’s.

F&B to suit all palates The beverage list is long and its cocktails and mocktails are always a hit with diners. Other than the usual suspects, the Classic cocktails, there are innovatively named specialties, such as Tina Maka Dina, Ann’cestral Recipe, Maldai Mango, London Sour and others.

This time, I settled for a rather simple Fresh Lime Water.

Fenny’s prides itself on specializing in Mediterranean and European cuisine that suits the Indian palate. Fenny’s food options are wide-ranging, from soups and salads, to vegetarian and non-vegetarian starters, main courses, pastas, sizzlers and their in-house specialty – the wood-fire thincrust pizzas. Vegetarian choices were aplenty, and I settled for

an old favourite – Crispy Potato Wedges (INR 125). Other starters on the menu included Tikki Bruschetta, Ginger Pineapple Strikers, Lyonnaise Mushroom, Boiled Egg Croquette, Chicken Quesadilla, Crab Piccanta Sticks, Batter Grilled Fish and even Potato Beef Bolognese. The wedges were perfectly fried and seasoned, and an absolute delight to dig into while taking in the balmy afternoon breeze.

All of the main course options appealed to me, so it was a tough choice. Since the wood-fire oven chef was busy, I chose not to go for a signature pizza. I can vouch for them, as on a previous occasion, I had tried their Farm House Pizza, and it was spot-on. This time, I was intrigued by an unusual lasagne – the Bread Lasagne (INR 275). The Fenny’s employee assured me it was a popular dish.

He also did add that it was rather heavy for an afternoon meal as it contains too much cheese! It was

definitely a humongous portion – meant for not one, but two persons! The wonderful aroma triggered my olfactory senses instantly. It had a couple of layers of bread, instead of lasagne sheets, and roasted vegetables and cottage cheese in alternating layers. Two crisp slices of Garlic Bread complimented it perfectly. The lasagne was seasoned beautifully and just melted in the mouth. The Bread Lasagne is also available with beef, instead of vegetables.

Other interesting Main Course options included Veg Newberg, Chicken Mexicano, Rosemary Baked Beef, Beef Stick Steak, and Pasta dishes such as Penne Alfredo, Tagliatelle Arrabbiata and Sizzlers in Vegetarian, Chicken and Lamb versions. Moving on to the desserts, again, I was stumped as all of them appeared equally appetizing.

The Sticky Toffee Cake with Butterscotch Sauce (INR 170) won against the Chocolate Brownie.

One of the best I’ve tasted in India, it was artistically presented and extremely flavoursome.

Time and again!

What draws me to Fenny’s every time is not just their food and beverages, but also the attention paid to all customers. It is rare to see a restaurant/lounge treating a lone diner as well as Fenny’s do! It is not always nostalgia for my school and college days in Goa that draw me to Fenny’s – their hospitality means a lot more than nostalgia, though the latter also lends to the wonderful, warm feeling that envelops diners here. ■

4/5

PRICE: INR 1400++ (meal for two)

ADDRESS: 115, 3rd Floor, Opposite Raheja Arcade, 7th Block, Koramangala PHONES: 080 412 82428

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

The Bread Lasagne was delicious, cheesy and so very filling!

RESTAURANT REVIEW KUKI RAVINDRAN / CHENNAI ABSOLUTE THAI

Absolute Thai...

Sawadeeka!

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or one of the most popular cuisines in the world, it’s surprising that in Chennai, Thai cuisine has had only singular representation in the form of an exclusive restaurant all these years.

Fortunately the monopoly is all set to be broken this week, when Absolute Thai moves out of softlaunch phase and opens its doors to hungry Thai-food lovers in the city.

From the Foodies Kitchen, the boys who brought you Sushi in a Box (home-delivered sushi), comes their second and more ambitious venture, Absolute Thai. A stand-

alone, exclusive Thai restaurant located in the heart of town, Absolute Thai ticks all the boxes in terms of location, décor, and menu. abundant fare Within seconds of being shown to our table, two shot-glasses of an interesting, liquid amusebouche (literal translation– mouth amuser) were placed in front of us. The slightly spicy, somewhat sweet, ginger and lemon drink was a tasty, refreshing palate-tickler. The pictorial menu makes choosing both easier and tougher as everything looks good, so to avoid unnecessary debate and

decision-making, we settled on the Absolute Thai Combo Platter (INR 750) which had 4 pieces each of Royal Money Bags (vegetarian), Thai Fish Cakes, Chicken Spring Rolls and Prawn Tempura.

Served piping hot with a sweet chilli Sauce, each appetizer was fresh and flavoursome. The Royal Money Bags were little pouches of delicate pastry encasing a finely minced and beautifully seasoned filling of crisp but tender veggies.

The Tempura Prawns were crumbfried rather than tempura-battered, but the perfect marriage of crisp, crunchy coating with tender, juicy prawn was delicious! The Chicken Spring Rolls were good, compe-

The second, exclusive Thai restaurant to open in the heart of the city. The menu with all the old-favourites, the more-than-competent execution, the pleasant service and the cosy interiors, all make it a joy to visit.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW tently executed, but not memorable. The piece de resistance of the platter however were the Thai Fish Cakes - they were light and bursting with flavour.

paired with a creamy coconut icecream made a sublime dessert. I enjoyed the water chestnut dessert more though- the perfect, soothing end to a spicy, delicious meal.

By now, we were pretty full but decided to soldier on and order dessert - Thai Coconut Pumpkin Custard (INR 225) and Water Chestnuts in Coconut Milk (INR 175). The custard was smooth and

Absolute Thai showcases the best of Thai food - spicy, sweet, sour and savoury experiences in a multitude of fresh and colourful dishes. It is a long overdue second option for Thai food lovers in the

city and I look forward to going back soon. â–

4/5

PRICE: INR 2000++ (meal for two)

ADDRESS: 24, Cenotaph Rd, Teynampet, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600018 PHONES: 044 476 01000

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RESTAURANT REVIEW SACHI KUMAR / MUMBAI QUENCH ALL DAY

Quench All Day Bar and Café has pimped up the bar food with so much cheese almost all the food tastes the same. It’s still a favourite with regulars who come for its well-priced drinks and retro music.

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tarting a bar in Mumbai is a big gamble, given how many there already are, and flexible customer loyalty.

While many are openand-shut cases, others survived and built a decent clientele for themselves. Quench All-Day Bar and Café falls into the latter category.

Its USP is the viable costs of the drinks and un-intimidating food, so patrons can focus on having fun with their friends rather than on what’s on their plates.

The Labneh marinated Labna Mushrooms were delicious!

The walls are adorned with ghetto-inspired paintings of The Beatles, Jim Morrison, Elvis Presley, etc, which add a spunky vibe to the dimly lit bar. The other high spot is the red chequered glass window overlooking the busy street below, and the beer bottle chandeliers.

(INR 429). Staying true to its name, Snake Bite was a deadly combination of Tequila, orange liqueur, lime cordial, topped with red wine. However, the wine overpowered the taste of all others, lending it a slight bitter taste. We could barely discern any tequila in the Monkey on the Island or vodka for that matter, whilst the Duke’s lemonade played a blink-and-miss-it role in the cocktail.

FARE FRAUGHT WITH CONFUSION After a quick glimpse at the drinks menu we settled on the Snake Bite (INR 449) and Monkey on the Island

Quench’s food menu is largely influenced by typical bar food, making it easy to pick out the appetizers like the Labna Mushrooms (INR 209). Labneh is a yoghurt

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

dip that is a staple in most Middle Eastern meals. Our server informed us that button mushrooms were marinated in this dip, which was also infused with basil. The pungent taste of garlic elevated the taste of the dish, and our plate was empty within minutes, even though the flavour of yoghurt was conspicuously missing.

The Grilled Chicken Olive (INR 239) was dressed in a thick pine nutty sauce and bursting with flavours of basil. We devoured the grilled chicken olive, partially because of the overload of cheesiness – the first of many to come. We were glad we did not miss out on the popular Herb Paprika Chicken (INR 249) especially since chicken and paprika is considered a winning combination and we were won over by this creation.

A CHEESY AFFAIR When it comes to innovation, the chef might not win any awards. In the Thai Basil Fish (INR 239), the only sign of the basil was a solitary basil leaf atop the fish. The Pesto Penne (INR 329) was hardly inspiring and very sweet for our taste buds, because of the cashew nuts in the pesto, which made it evident that this was the poor man’s pesto.

The Prawns Newburg (INR 419) were supposed to be spicy marinated grilled prawns with mushrooms and red yellow bell pepper served with pimento rice. It was spicy, check. It was grilled, check.

There was no trace of wine that ought to have gone into its making to give it a nice glaze and a tangy flavour. The rice it was served with did not have pimento. Perhaps calling it Grilled Prawns served

with a side of spiced rice would have been more accurate.

Our self-proclaimed gluttonous appetite could not do justice to the heavily piled up dish of Hakka noodles tossed with spicy chicken, topped with crispy noodles, with a fried egg in the Triple Schezwan Fried Rice (INR 309)! And that is saying a lot.

We just about saved some space for dessert, and our server suggested we try the Quench Special Sizzling Brownie (INR 209). It surely would not win brownie points for originality, but the brownie base, which we were told was infused with beer, was definitely not rock hard as we have had in other places and could even soak the gooey syrup poured over it.

Quench does not harbour any pretensions about being a gourmet destination, so the no-frills food does not come as a surprise.

What however comes as a bit of a disappointment is that it follows a four-gravy system, where each of these gravies are overladen with cheese, which after a point just numbs your palates.

So, if you are looking for a bar to have a quiet conversation, Quench might not work for you. But for hipsters who want some easy grub and unpresumptuous drinks (not high street beverages, mind you!) with some good retro music blaring from the speakers, without pinching their pockets, Quench has an undeniable lure. ■

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Quench does not harbour any pretensions about being a gourmet destination, so the no-frills food does not come as a surprise.

3/5

PRICE: INR 1200++ (Meal for two)

ADDRESS: 4th Floor, Tian Building, 48 Gulmohar Road, Juhu, Mumbai – 400 056 ADDRESS: 022 301 51959

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RESTAURANT REVIEW VINITA BHATIA / MUMBAI HOPPIPOLA

When You're Hoppi And You Know It

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o you have memories of getting whacked on the back of your head for playing with your food as a child? Well, the good folks at Hoppipola, Powai encourage you to do exactly that.

They believe that eating out should not be about plonking your behind on a cushy cushion, ordering from a menu, having a subdued conversion with your dinner companion, fumbling with your mobile phone to catch up on what’s happening

on your social media networks or mails, eating your meal, paying your bill, and heading out the door.

Once you push the heavy wooden swinging door to enter the restaurant, you are tempted to pick comics from the wall mounted book stand at one end of the room, or doodle on the chalkboard that doubles as a table top, or challenge your friends to a round of Scrabble or Jenga that the staff is happy to

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We thought so. Especially when we trooped in to Hoppipola’s Powai outlet on what we thought was early for a Friday evening, but were PHOTO NOT FROM ESTABLISHMENT

Tired of fine-dining?

Try fun-dining at Hoppipola, Powai where mealtimes go beyond ordering, eating, paying, and exiting a restaurant; it's more about entertainment, entertainment, entertainment!

provide you with – basically do more than just walk in, eat, pay and leave. The idea is to get people to stop staring into their smartphones while out for a meal and actually engage with each other, of course with some food and drinks thrown into the hubbub. Now isn’t that a recipe for happiness?

IT’S RAINING MEDIOCRITY The nub of our visit was to check out the Monsoon Menu, which will be available till the end of August, 2015. This adjunct to the main menu is all of six dishes, with three vegetarian and three non-vegetarian options. Like everything else in this establishment, the titles and descriptions on the menu are quirky enough to raise a chuckle as you peruse through it.

The Tempura Tamarina (INR 180) was fairly run-of-the-mill and something you would get at any Mumbai street side vendor under the pedestrian name of Kanda Bhajia. Yes sir, it was onion fritters in a pimped-up guise. Had the Nuke-A-Zuke (INR 180), or zucchini fritters, not been so oily or salty, it would have gone very well with the accompanying dry and spicy burnt chili garlic chutney.

It appears that by the time menu writers reached writing the description for the Crack-A-Cheese (INR 190), their creativity dried up so they succinctly summed it up as Chilli Paneer, which is exactly what it was. This unspectacular tangle of cottage cheese, capsicum and onions tossed in a concoction of cornflour, soy sauce and ketchup is something you could share with your friends over drinks, if

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The pulsating vibe of the place rubs off on you and we urge you visit Hoppipola more to soak in that feel, than to tuck into the food. you are unfussy about what’s on your plate. Having sampled the vegetarian variants, we realised that the first half of the Monsoon Menu does not even try to take baby steps towards reaching gastronomic heights. Luckily, we had ordered a round of fairly well concocted beverages, which kept our spirits from deflating.

It was easy to see why many tables at Hoppipola had glasses of Long Island Ice Tea (INR 295). The bartender had mixed this wicked cocktail perfectly well –potent enough to make you forget the travails of the week gone by whilst bolstering you for the hectic week coming ahead. Our taste buds were equally grateful for the lush flavours of the Vodkatini (INR 195), which had the right proportion of vodka.

FINALLY GETTING IT RIGHT The Kheemo-Therapy (INR 270) was lamb mince served alongside crispy garlic bread slices and pita bread. The mince had a well-rounded flavour, sans too much spiciness, despite its looks; when lathered on the bread slice made for a pleasant DIY bruschetta of sorts. The Indoo Shahkuti (INR 195) is a re-imagined omelette on buttered pav, with Chick-

en Xacuti thrown in to keep things interesting.

The best choice on the limited Monsoon Menu was the innovative Aapdo Chorizo (INR 285). Imagine a finger sized green Bhavnagari chilli. Next, imagine a mixture of Goan chorizo and prawns in a spicy and sweet tomato salsa.

Then, imagine the latter stuffed into the former. Now, imagine biting into this pile of spiciness, sweetness and tanginess in a single chew! Let’s just say it makes for a fascinating mouthful.

Hoppipola might not win any awards for the food, but then again, we don’t think it was angling for any in the first place. Seeing how the place was mobbed on the day we visited – from women on a girls’ nights out, colleagues letting down their hair, to guys drinking in bonhomie – food is the clasp that binds the geniality of time well spent and is not the focal point of the evening.

Also, the menu prices do not make you whip out a pocket calculator and frantically calculate what the damages to your pocket comes to on a night out. The pulsating vibe of the place rubs off on you and we urge you visit Hoppipola more to soak in that feel, than to tuck into the food. ■

3/5

PRICE: INR 1200++ (meal for two)

ADDRESS: 136 & 138 A, Galleria Shopping Centre, Hiranandani Gardens, Powai, Mumbai PHONES: 022 401 50436

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

surprised to find the bar packed to its high ceilings. Not many seemed interested in playing the sedate games mentioned above, but some were quick to jump off their high chairs and shake a leg, while the DJ belted out tracks from the 90s that not many in the crowd related to, but nonetheless danced enthusiastically to.

RESTAURANT REVIEW RHEA MITRA-DALAL / NAVI MUMBAI MAHARASHTRIAN MEJWANI THALI PROMOTION AT FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON

Majedaar Maharashtrian Mejwani

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avi Mumbai is generally perceived as a place starved for good food with not much beyond run of the mill ‘Indian’ or Chinese joints. You couldn’t be more wrong! These days Navi Mumbaikars are spoiled for choice and the Four Points by Sheraton hotel is making a concentrated effort to give patrons a taste of cuisines from India and abroad via special food festivals focused on a single cuisine.

Mukul Jha, Executive Chef at the Four Points explained how the on-going month of Shraavan (where locals turn strictly vegetarian abstaining even from alcohol)

was a major factor in influencing the decision to do a completely vegetarian festival showcasing local Maharashtrian food. Saee Koranne Khandekar, restaurant consultant and food blogger, pointed out how most people perceive Maharahstrian cuisine to be all about Malvani curries, over spiced versions of Kolhapuri food, or batata vada – completely unaware of the flavourful, complex, sometimes rustic and sometimes sophisticated Brahmin food of the Desh and the Konkan.

The Kokanastha Thali had whole wheat puris, brinjal and onion fritters or bhajjis, an amla and coconut chutney, cabbage and moong koshimbir or salad.

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PHOTO BY RHEA MITRA-DALAL

The Mejwani Thali at Four Points by Sheraton had two vegetarian, yet sumptuous meal options that showcased Kokanastha and Deshastha Brahmin cuisine from Maharashtra; a rare chance to enjoy home cooked food at a starred property in Navi Mumbai.

Now such food festivals are hardly unique but the most recent one they had caught my attention for two reasons – the first was that it was a purely vegetarian menu, and the second was that this menu was curated by a food blogger – not a chef.

The Kokanastha Thali had whole wheat puris, brinjal and onion fritters or bhajjis, an amla and coconut chutney, cabbage and moong koshimbir or salad. It also had batatyachi (potato) bhaaji, tomato che saar - a tomato and coconut soup-like light preparation, alu cha phadphada – colocasia leaves and stems spiced and cooked to a thin puree, vaalacha birda – bitter field beans in coconut, and tondli masale bhaat – spiced rice with ivy gourd. A bowl of fresh curd to soothe the tummy and a bowl of ghavlyachi kheer rounded off the meal perfectly. Ghavlya are a sort of rice shaped whole wheat pasta traditionally made in Kokanastha households commonly used in kheer and also in savoury preparations.

This incredibly elaborate meal was an adventure for me from start to finish. The biggest plus point was that the food did not have

Saee Koranne Khandekar, restaurant consultant and food blogger, pointed out how most are unaware of the flavourful, complex, rustic and sometimes sophisticated Brahmin food of the Desh and the Konkan.

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the ubiquitous ‘red/brown/white gravy’ that one sees in restaurants serving Indian food these days.

From the chutney to the koshimbir, and from the birda to the saar, each dish had its own distinct taste. They looked different too – in consistency and colour – and this amazing variety of flavours and textures made this one of the best vegetarian thalis I have ever eaten. So many flavours in a single plate!

The Deshastha Thali was quite different in appearance and flavours. A more robust cuisine with a limited arsenal of ingredients, it was quite a revelation how varied and interesting the Brahmin cuisines of Maharashtra are. This one had the same whole wheat puris, a raw mango and chilli chutney that was just lip smacking, green chilli pickle, koshimbir of cabbage, carrots and moong daal, and crisp

on the outside and jelly on the inside sabudana wadas. I could have munched on a dozen of these babies without complaint! The mains on this thali included the same dry batatyachi bhaaji as in the Kokanastha thaali, bharli vaangi – baby brinjals cooked in a spicy coconut and peanut masala, whole masoor usal, shevgyachya shengachi aamti – toor daal cooked with tender drumsticks and spiced with goda masala (made following Khandekar’s great grandmother’s recipe), and masale bhaat with green peas. For dessert this thali had a unique offering called ratalyache kaap - sweet potatoes caramelised in clove scented jaggery.

An incredibly simple dessert but oh so sophisticated, I was floored.

I’m not a great fan of dessert but the ratalyache kaap was simply irresistible. Ghavlyachi kheer was also served with this meal and that was a lovely bonus which made my husband very happy indeed!

Both thalis included plain curd, and a basket of kurdai (wheat milk papads) and mirgunda (poha papads), and at the end we were served vida (paan), and dried candied amla.

Priced at a mere INR 375 + taxes, the thali cost less than INR 500, which I thought was an absolute steal considering the sheer variety of dishes on these thalis. ■

4/5

PRICE: INR 375++ (per thali)

ADDRESS: Plot 39/1, 6 To 15, Sector 30A, Vashi, Navi Mumbai, Mumbai PHONES: 022 615 87777

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

The Mejwani Thali was a two week event organised by the Four Points in association with PRestaurants, a company that does focused food events, and Saee Koranne Khandekar showcasing Kokanastha and Deshastha Brahmin cuisines, popularly known as KoBrah and DeBrah cuisines. The two are quite distinct and reflect the produce and ingredients of their regions. While the Konkan is abundant in fresh produce, vegetables, etc., the interior regions of the Desh (or mainland) have a relatively frugal selection of fresh produce and therefore rely more on spices and dried ingredients, pulses, peanuts, etc. This contrast was clearly visible in the two thalis that were served.

RESTAURANT REVIEW POORNA BANERJEE / KOLKATA AFRAA RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE

A Taste of Tuscany Afraa Restaurant and Lounge in City Center I dreamt up the Taste of Tuscany festival, featuring food from that delicious Italian region and Poorna Banerjee thought the world of it. despair, looked at me with baleful eyes, and then munched on a slice as well.

There were also pretty triangles of Lavash bread, studded with seeds, and thin grissini sticks, but we had promised ourselves to not fill up on bread, so we reluctantly left the bread alone. Meanwhile, the Chefs

had come over, and after a brief tussle about the meal, we settled for a light repast of the non-vegetarian antipasti platter, and some chicken to follow.

The Antipasti Platter was much larger than we had expected. There were wafer thin slices of pepperoni on crispy flat bread, slices of boc-

We both decided on a glass of Folonari Leggero Bianco, a light new white with a soft floral nose, which is off-set by tones of mild sweetness that complement the semi-dry finish. It is a good choice for those who like a wine which is not too sweet or too warm on the palate, and is great for fish, chicken, pizza, or light pastas. As I initially thought of ordering a pasta or the fish, I was all for it. However, then the bread basket came, and before I knew it, I was tucking into the crisp, warm slices of toasty garThe breads, which included a crisp and tasty lavaash, were well made and I lic bread, and D groaned briefly in think we ended up eating more than our fair share.

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PHOTOS BY POORNA BANERJEE

A

fraa Restaurant and Lounge in City Center I is currently celebrating its 'A Taste of Tuscany' food festival, and although I was invited a while back, call it divine intervention, or a twist of fate, I could not go there any earlier, but, at the very last weekend, suddenly, D asked me what I was up to, and as we were both thinking of eating something meaty and catching up, we decided to meet up at Afraa.

RESTAURANT REVIEW Their anti-pasti platters were generous and well made, ensuring we polished it all off within minutes

concini and tomatoes spread over crunchy crostini, and topped with a bit of sun-dried tomato relish (or so I thought!), which we downed in no time. I was not much fan of the ham wrapped around thick wedges of melon. I would have preferred if the melon was shaved, as well as the ham, and the mortadella and salami were nice, but unremarkable. We also got a bit of olives and an assortment of dips, including one which was quite strong and herbal, and a red relish which was rather mild, despite the fact that it looked rather fiery and intimidating.

The Pollo di Graziella was a generous portion of chicken legs, cooked to perfection, and served with gravy, an assortment of vegetables, and a risotto which was not too wet, and veered more towards a wet pilaf. However, the creamy rice accompanied the meat nicely, and we attacked the mildly flavored meat with gusto. The server asked if we wanted more wine, but we

were looking forward to sharing a

“

The Pollo di Graziella was a generous portion of chicken legs, cooked to perfection, and served with gravy, an assortment of vegetables, and a risotto which was not too wet, and veered more towards a wet pilaf.

dessert, so we decided to skip it.

Dessert was Affogato, served with Bailey's, so we shared the scoop of vanilla ice cream, topped with Bailey's and a shot of espresso, taking sips from the Martini glass, and scooping out bits of the boozy ice cream from the bottom. Afraa is a great destination for that impromptu lunch or an even an outing with the family. Do look out for their special festivals when there’s more than the regular stuff on the menu. It is always a good idea to call ahead and reserve first.

■

4/5

PRICE: INR 2000++ (meal for two)

ADDRESS: #G-Block,6th & 7th Floor,City Centre Mall, Salt Lake City,, Sector 1, Salt Lake City, Kolkata PHONES: 033 235 81111 CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015 | 31

RESTAURANT REVIEW DEVANGI THAKKAR / DUBAI CUCINA, JW MARRIOTT, DUBAI

Savouring Italy Devangi Thakkar thinks Cucina a great choice for unfussy Italian fare in a rustic Mediterranean setting, given the obvious commitment displayed towards quality and freshness of produce.

W PHOTOS BY DEVANGI THAKKAR

ith an obvious commitment to quality and freshness of produce, Cucina is a great choice for unfussy Italian fare in a rustic Mediterranean setting. Located within the opulent 5-star interiors of the J W Marriott, this warm and rustic restaurant is a slice straight out of a local, family-owned Pizzeria somewhere in picturesque Italy.

The decor at Cucina is rustic and the effect as a whole is quite charming.

Cucina takes not just your palate but all your other senses too on a gastronomical journey to Italian homes, as you lose yourself within the warm interiors of this place.

As we weaved our way through the dimly lit tables, I stopped to marvel at the service hatch - a close replica of the old-world elevators with fenced grills. Right across from the hatch is the sprawling counter for the lavish spread of salads and antipasto, and just behind the counter, you find smiling chefs tossing their pizza dough heavenwards. One look at the wood-fired oven behind them and you are reminded of a countryside casa in Italy.

Little Italy The walls are beautifully adorned with carefully hand-picked jars, cutlery and ceramics that speak Italian - literally! And, as a stark contrast, the very non-Italian staff are extremely friendly, exuding a bonhomie that only accentuates the dining experience. Friends who had visited the place on earlier occasions swear by the vibe created by the staff ’s periodic, random

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bursts into song. We were looking forward to it, but considering there were not too many of us dining there that afternoon, they probably decided to give their performance a miss.

The quaint-looking wooden shelves housed a variety of oils, olives and condiments, interspersed with antique lamps and frames. A small flight of wooden stairs lead to the upper deck, which had more seating for diners.

Simplicity at its core We like to whet our appetite with a good soup. Almost always. And were pleasantly surprised with the vegetarian options on the menu.

The chickpeas and sundried tomato soup with a generous dash of fresh basil was a little dense for my liking, but more than matched my expectations. The chickpea-basil combination worked really well with the lightly toasted breads, but would have been better had the seasoning and texture been mild.

The minestrone soup, on the contrary, though fresh and flavourful with crunchy vegetables, was all

The vegetable cannelloni suffused with the richness of Mediterranean herbs and baked with a generous helping of tomato sauce was one of the finest I've eaten. A well balanced mix of all the elements resulted in a portion just right for one person. I usually find cannelloni either cooked with a very dense sauce and filling or served in large portions, leaving little room for anything else. The way this dish came together with simple produce, dairy and herbs reminded me of my grandmother's cooking.

The gnocchi in red pepper cream sauce had pine nuts, which my little one lovingly picked out. The flavour of red pepper was lost in the cream and the lack of any other kind of seasoning left us with little to enjoy. I must admit, though, that I am yet to come across a gnocchi that has been both experimental and successful.

A well equipped salad bar churns out bespoke salads made just the way a diner desires.

“

RESTAURANT REVIEW

too familiar. The complimentary bread basket had an assortment of freshly baked breads and chips.

The chickpeabasil combination worked really well with the lightly toasted breads, but would have been better had the seasoning and texture been mild.

Dining at an Italian joint without trying the pizza translates into an incomplete dining experience. We asked the server to bring us his recommendation, albeit vegetarian. And so, calzone it was. It was stuffed with the most decadent mozzarella cheese, along with tomatoes, mushrooms and black olives. Of course, it is an Italian dish. A casual glance at the menu told me that all the risotto dishes had alcohol, so for someone who doesn't drink, risotto would not be an option.

We mulled over the dessert menu the longest, contemplating wheth-

er to go with the traditional fare or to devour something new. The Tiramisu, being a personal favourite, was a little hard to let go of.

Of course, we could have called for that too, but we just didn’t have room for more. We settled for a caramelised lemon tart with rosemary apple sauce. We had never before tasted rosemary apple sauce and it cut through the sharp lemon flavour quite beautifully.

A special place for a special occasion Cucina offers Italian fare in the most authentic ambience. It is not pretentious and delivers exactly what it promises as you walk in through the door. The pricing is mid-range and value for money. It is the kind of place that would be perfect for an intimate gathering or celebration. It is also the kind of place that would be perfect for a very relaxed meal while catching up with an old friend. ■

4/5

PRICE: AED 350 (meal for two)

ADDRESS: Abu Baker Al Siddique Rd - Dubai - United Arab Emirates PHONES: +971 4 607 7588

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RESTAURANT REVIEW CHARIS BHAGIANATHAN / NEW YORK IBBY'S FALAFEL

Not Just Falafel

C

omfort food means different things to different people – a mother’s biryani, a college dhaba’s samosa or even salty chips, straight from a bag. For me, in a new city where I’ve lived only four months, my current comfort food stop is a walk down the street - a tiny restaurant called Ibby’s Falafel.

aroma of roasting meat. There are framed reviews up on the walls, alongside the brief menu, and often there is Middle Eastern music playing that makes you wish you knew how to belly dance.

Through the day, a wide demographic of people walk through Ibby’s doors. Hungry office goers who need a quick lunch, tired moms who don’t want Serving an array of Middle-Eastern to cook lunch, and students on dishes, Ibby’s Falafel is located at a budget. Open until midnight, Ibby’s is also an extremely popular Grove Street, Jersey City, nestled between some Indian grocery post-drinks joint in Jersey City to eat in after a long night of stores and nail salons. When dancing. you walk into the tiny cramped space (half of which is covered The most popular items on the with tables and chairs), you’re immediately greeted with that menu are the Falafel sandwich and the Shawarma sandwich familiar and deeply comforting

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Charis found her go to place for comfort food to be just a short walk down the street - Ibby's Falafel. Apparently, the familiar and comforting aroma of roasting meat helped. If you're looking for meaty sandwiches, middle eastern salads or simply ourstanding hummus, Charis suggests you first try Ibby's Falafel. (chicken or lamb). The falafels are fried to order and then nestled in a soft, warm pita envelope that has generous filling of shredded lettuce with onion slivers and fresh tomato chunks and is finally doused with a creamy tahini sauce.

The chicken and lamb shawarmas are both well spiced and full of flavor but I do enjoy the “meatier” taste of the lamb. The spinning meat grillers that rotate tirelessly

Ibby’s also specializes in Middle Eastern salads that are a great choice for the health-minded. In particular, the Fatoush salad that’s piled high with lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, pita croutons, olives and dressed in vinegar, lime and olive oil is deliciously fresh and perfect for a summer lunch.

No Middle Eastern restaurant worth its salt has anything less than outstanding, poetry-inducing hummus, baba ghanoush and tzatziki , and Ibby’s has certainly got their's right. Their hummus is a thick, creamy chickpea puree with hints of garlic, lime and sesame, while the baba ghanoush is a generous portion of roasted and lightly charred eggplant flesh blended with parsley, onions and lime. The yogurt-based tzatziki goes well with meat, and has a strong garlic flavor that I love. My standard order at Ibby’s is the lamb shawarma with a side of the baba ghanoush so I can smother the rich eggplant dip onto my meaty shawarma before every delicious mouthful.

Ibby’s also does lamb and chicken kebabs on the skewer, but I don’t think they’re a patch on the shawarmas. Other popular items on the menu include stuffed vine leaves (filled with seasoned rice and mint), ful madammes (fava beans cooked with cumin and finished with lime and olive oil), and tabouli (a fresh couscous and vegetable side dish).

For such a small restaurant, Ibby’s certainly does not disappoint on the dessert front – they have a few specialties that are baked fresh every day. Whether it is the classic

The spinning meat grillers that rotate tirelessly all through the day make the spiced and marinated meat slightly charred and crisp on the outside, yet gorgeously tender and juicy on the inside.

“

Baklava (filo pastry speckled with nuts and drizzled with honey), the small bites of Mabrouma (twisted filo dough cups topped with assorted nuts) or their signature rice pudding crowned with plump raisins and dusted with cinnamon, there is enough to choose from to end with a sweet treat.

The Middle Eastern flavors of Ibby’s Falafel have become to me, a comfort on more weary days. On days I miss home, the spices in the lamb and the garlic in the tzatziki remind me of mother’s mutton biryani and raita. It’s both strange and wonderful how as we grow up and travel, new tastes and flavors bring us comfort, joy and remind us of home. For many in this neighborhood like me, this small restaurant with honest, delicious food is like a piece of home. ■

4/5

PRICE: under US $10 (price range)

ADDRESS: 303 Grove St, Jersey City, NJ 07302 PHONES: +1 (732) 409-123

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

PHOTO BY MICHELLE J.

Ibby's platter all through the day make the spiced and marinated meat slightly charred and crisp on the outside, yet gorgeously tender and juicy on the inside. These sandwiches are an easy to-go meal and most patrons drop by to pick one up for a quick meal. Those who can handle heat, often add a lashing of Ibby’s hot sauce to the sandwich.

This sauce is not the faint hearted though – it looks and tastes like a pure red chilli paste. There is also the option to get the shawarma as a platter (with salad) instead of in bread (as a sandwich).

RESTAURANT REVIEW CHARIS BHAGIANATHAN / NEW YORK RESTAURANT WEEK IN NY

Restaurant Week in NY

T

he first ever Restaurant Week in New York happened over a decade ago in 2002, where a weeklong, lunch-only event caught the attention of the public. Fastforward to Restaurant Week 2015, and you have an all-out food extravaganza with some of the best restaurants in the city participating. The Restaurant Week concept is that restaurants offer a prix fixe lunch and dinner menu (price this year was 25$ for lunch and 38$ for dinner) for a three course meal. The menus do have choices, typically 3 or 4 choices per course, as well as supplement offers where you can get a “fancier” dish for an additional charge. This year, Restaurant ‘week’ lasted from July 20th to August 14th – almost a whole month.

The idea of Restaurant Week, I believe, is beneficial to both consumer and business. The consumer is able to sample food in restaurants they would not normally eat at because of the price. It is worth mentioning that

there were many Michelin star restaurants participating in this year’s event including Ai Fiori, Hakkasan and Gotham Bar and Grill. For many, the price would be a deterrent for dining at these restaurants, but during Restaurant Week you could sample a three course menu at a fraction of the regular price. For the business, Restaurant Week means opening doors to a whole new pool of customers, filling tables at restaurants that don’t always have full houses and chefs cooking a shorter menu. Most patrons will also most likely buy a drink with their meal, which means higher alcohol sales.

What Do The Menus Look Like?

This extended period gave me the time (and stomach!) to sample menus at several restaurants across NY. For instance, this is the Restaurant Week dinner menu of a very popular American restaurant called The Gander. Diners must choose one option for each course from multiple options provided by the restaurant.

Located in Manhattan’s Flatiron

district, this new and trendy dining spot runs a tight ship and the captain is Chef Jesse Schenker who has made a name for himself with his beautifully crafted American creations. We found every dish prepared with delicacy and a light touch– the octopus appetizer in particular was exquisite, easily the most tender I’ve eaten. Often, diners like us will pay the extra supplement to taste a special dish like the Tenderloin in this case, and it is well worth the extra cost.

Great Meat, Great Prices Restaurant Week is a great time to visit steakhouses if you’re a carnivore like me. Good meat often costs a lot and during this time you can get slightly smaller portions of your favorite cuts, cooked to order, and usually with some delicious sides. The Mark Joseph steakhouse in Financial district is considered by many as one of the better steakhouses in the city. They boast of an on-site dry-ageing system and their signature dish is a 40oz Porterhouse steak cooked in its own juices. We stopped by for lunch and weren’t disappointed

Charis thinks NYC Restaurant week has the potential to be a fantastic experience for a food lover. The trick is to pick the right restaurant from the long list of those participating.

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“

by the Restaurant Week menu. I was particularly pleased with my Baked clam appetizer and although there were only three on the plate, they had been cooked lovingly with lime, pepper and finished with white wine. For the mains we ate the 14oz Sirloin and the 8oz Filet Mignon (5$ supplement), both cooked exactly like we asked (medium rare) and served with buttery mash on the side. All that was left to do was to pick a good red wine to wash all that meaty goodness down and thank the Lord, for he created cows! During the course of Restaurant Week we also ate at two other steakhouses – Empire steakhouse and Capital Grille, both of which were excellent.

Hits and Misses Depending on the popularity of the restaurant in general, Restaurant Week could either be a hit or miss on some aspects. For instance, Andanada, a Michelinstarred Spanish Tapas restaurant in the Upper West Side served us extremely small portions and though service was pleasant, it certainly didn’t live up to the

Michelin star status. At Empire steakhouse, the choices were many and the portions were generous but because the restaurant was packed, plates were coming out to us without even being wiped clean. Our starter of Thick cut sizzling Canadian bacon looked rather unappetizing, although it tasted great. But then there was Marseilles, where everything just worked like a well-oiled machine. A romantic dinner spot, Marseilles specializes in home-style Mediterranean food with bold flavors put together by Executive Chef Andy D’Amico who’s inspiration comes from his big Italian family. Our appetizers here were a Spinach, leek and Goat cheese tart which was flaky and gooey with marinated tomatoes and capers for freshness, and the Crispy pork belly tartine which was cooked perfectly tender with a crisp crackling on top and sitting on a bed of tomato relish spooned over a garlicky, toasted brioche.

Our mains were Cripsy chicken

with a smooth as silk green garbanzo puree and asparagus tossed in za’atar, as well as the golden Pork schnitzel which was such a generous portion (three large schnitzels!), I doggy-bagged half and it was lunch for me the following day. Dessert really blew us away- the Yoghurt panna cotta wobbled just right and was delicately touched with a rosewater gelee while the Classic crème brulee had a gorgeous sun-kissed crackle sitting over a pale just-set custard. Highlight of the evening?

Rod Stewart was eating two tables away from us!

NYC Restaurant Week has the potential to be a fantastic experience for a food lover. The trick is to pick the right restaurant from the long list of participating ones. Always look at the menu before hand, pick weeknights for dinner and book ahead. All in all, it’s a wonderful opportunity to try restaurants at a reasonable price and find new favorites. ■

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

PHOTO BY MICHELLE J.

Andanada, a Michelin-starred Spanish Tapas restaurant in the Upper West Side served us extremely small portions and though service was pleasant, it certainly didn’t live up to the Michelin star status.

A DIET THAT WORKS!

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A N I

Y L L

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After reading about the many diets out there that promise health to their followers and experiencing quite a few of them, Charis Bhagianathan finally found one that works - the Paleo diet! Not only did she think it effective, but she also felt the basic premise to be simple and very do-able.

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COVER STORY

THE PALEO DIET

I

first heard about Paleo from my then boyfriend (now husband) in early 2013 when it was emerging as an extremely popular fitness and health trend in the United States. From the very start, enthusiasts have insisted that Paleo is not a diet, but a lifestyle. Being successful at Paleo means choosing not only to eat like our Paleolithic ancestors, but also emulating behavioral aspects of the “caveman life”. This includes more physical activity and (much) more sleep.

Diet-wise, all “man-made” foods like refined flour, sugar, trans fats and processed food has to be eliminated. Paleo means going back to the basics and “eating clean” – fresh, chemical-free produce like fruits and vegetables, and organic meat and fish.

Unlike most other diets, Paleo actually encourages the consumption of fat – but this must be “good fat” like animal fat, coconut oil, nut butter or even clarified butter (ghee).

In those early days, a few of us friends decided to embark on a 30 day Paleo project (http://culinary-

Green tea is a recommended part of the Paleo Diet.

by Charis Alfred Bhagianathan

storm.com/the-30-days-of-paleo-challenge/) to see what changes it would have on our body. We used a point system to ensure we were making a real attempt at the overall Paleo lifestyle. A total of 5 points could be earned each day: ■■ Sleeping 7+ hours a day: 1 point ■■ Drinking half our body weight in ounces of water/ green tea: 1 point ■■ Any kind of cardio-vascular and weight training exercise: 1 point ■■ Eating 100% clean/full Paleo: 2 points At the end of the month, all of us reported back positively. Personally, I lost 2 kilos, my pants felt looser, I felt much more toned, but most importantly I felt healthier overall. My sugar cravings reduced, I had more energy, and I was sleeping better than I had in a long time. To sustain a Paleo lifestyle realistically, we found most of us could manage an 80:20 ratio if we tried hard, which is 80% Paleo and 20% indulgences, but even that could be challenging to maintain.

But what’s the best way to give Paleo a shot if you’ve never done it before? Robb Wolf (http://robbwolf. com/), the New York Times Best Selling author of The Paleo Solution – The Original Human Diet says, “Some people will benefit from an incremental, "change one thing per week" kind of approach. Many will fail on that as they need rapid improvements in health to justify the changes in their diet and lifestyle, these folks should jump in with both feet, and this is honestly the approach I generally recommend. I find that if people get in and do a solid 30 days of reasonably strict Paleo eating, these folks will look, feel and perform better. Much better. Then these folks can make a decision: is this new way of eating worth the "sacrifice?" For most it is and again, for most they find that they can have "non-paleo" foods once in a while and suffer no real problems. It's what they do 90% of the time that really matters.”

Ali Saeed, a Paleo food blogger (http://thepaleoprince.blogspot.com/) and manager at a Fortune 100

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THE PALEO DIET

tech firm based in New York had a very positive body reaction to Paleo. He says, “I saw significant weight loss and an increase in confidence, boundless energy, mental sharpness, greater memory, more effective sleep and vivid dreams. I also noticed a major reduction in mood swings, food comas, heartburn, migraines, and shortness of breath.

Very similar to Paleo, but perhaps even more lifestyle orientated is the “Primal blueprint” first introduced to us by Mark Sisson, fitness expert and blogger at Mark’s Daily Apple (http://www.marksdailyapple.com/). Introducing his “Primal blueprint”, Mark says “it is a set of simple instructions that allows you to control how your genes express

Paleo’s not about historical reenactment. It’s a framework for improving health through real food.

- MICHELLE TAM Blogger, Nom Nom Paleo

COVER STORY

themselves in order to build the strongest, leanest, healthiest body possible, taking clues from evolutionary biology.” The rules include eating lots of animals, insects and plants, moving around a lot at a slow pace, and lifting heavy things among others.

But how much of a successful Paleo/Primal lifestyle is dependent on an active, fitness-oriented lifestyle as opposed to just diet? Wolf says, “For 99% of human history we hunted and we gathered. We were active. We slept well. Certain diet, movement and lifestyle considerations are "baked into the cake" of our genetics. So, yes, diet and lifestyle are important. What is unique about the Paleo concept is that it does integrate these ele-

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COVER STORY

THE PALEO DIET

ments and looks at them from an evolutionary biology perspective.

Now, all that said, let's say we have a person who is sedentary and eats poorly. Will this person benefit from eating well, especially relative to a junk-food based diet? Clearly the answer is "yes." If this individual also went for a daily walk, went to bed early and took some probiotics, they would be even better off.”

For many, Paleo and CrossFit go hand in hand. Crossfit, an immensely popular fitness regime

across the globe, is defined as “constantly varied functional movements performed at relatively high intensity”. Developed by Greg Glassman who defines fitness in a “meaningful, measurable way (increased work capacity across broad time and modal domains)”, many Paleo enthusiasts swear they see increased positive results when they pair Paleo with CrossFit. One such person is Juli Bauer of Paleo OMG (http://paleomg.com/) who says, “Pairing Paleo and CrossFit together has changed my life. I’ve never felt better inside or out.”

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Pairing Paleo and CrossFit together has completely changed my life. I’ve never felt better inside or out.

- JULI BAUER Blogger, Paleo OMG

THE PALEO DIET

For 99% of human history we hunted and we gathered. We were active. We slept well.

Certain diet, movement and lifestyle considerations are "baked into the cake" of our genetics.

Ali, who eats Paleo and goes to a CrossFit gym 3-4 times a week, has a slightly different take. He says, “Paleo and Crossfit are not mutually exclusive. I was living a Paleo lifestyle for three months before beginning CrossFit. I think there is a specific way of working out which works well with a Paleo lifestyle and CrossFit integrates some of those aspects but not necessarily all of them. People should listen to their bodies and engage in workout programs accordingly.”

Many fear Paleo, like they would fear any diet. They wonder if the food is too bland or lacks flavor - ROBB WOLF New York Times Best Selling author or generally is not appetizing and of The Paleo Solution – The Original fun at all. Michelle Tam of Nom Nom Paleo (http://nomnompaHuman Diet leo.com/) who has been called

COVER STORY

“the Martha Stewart of Paleo” by The New York Times blogs about all kinds delicious and not even vaguely “diet-looking” Paleo food.

She says, “Paleo’s not about historical reenactment. It’s a framework for improving health through real food.” She sums up the Paleo diet rather succinctly by saying, “Eat more whole, nutrient-rich food, like vegetables, meat, seafood, and some nuts and fruit. Also, try to avoid stuff that tends to be more harmful than healthful, like processed foods, added sugar, seed oils, grains, legumes, and dairy.”

When it’s put so simply, I wonder why we’re not all “eating clean”, don’t you? ■

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TRAVEL

by Surbhi Saimbi

Heaven, Descended

W

A week in Ladakh

hen I began to pen down my thoughts on the time we spent in Ladakh, I pondered over an appropriate adjective as a title for this article hoping that it would do justice to the place that had captivated my spirit in abundance. Would you believe me if I mention that I googled ‘adjectives for Ladakh’? Many words popped up on my screen – mesmerizing, magical, ethereal, breathtaking; but none of them seemed enough.

These words paled in comparison to the unfathomable experience that I and my other half had had just over a period of few days. What a delightful place this was and then it struck me- keep it simple – 'Heaven' was a great place to start my quest for a suitable title!

Nothing can describe it better. The images that I have conjured up of heaven is of this ethereal place which has the beautiful, surreal landscape, kind and amazing people, food to die for, and lots of peace. And, that is exactly what Ladakh is!

There are some absolute must-haves and must-dos in Ladakh:

Where else would you find snow covered mountains co existing with sand dunes, hot springs at one end and a cold blue lake at another?

At the Khardungla top. At 18,380 feet, it is the highest motorable road in the world. What is incredible is that even during the peak of winters, the Indian army works 24*7 to keep this road completely functional as this is the only way to connect Leh with the rest of Nubra Valley which is quite close to the Line of Control (LOC).

There were times when we wanted to sit down and soak in the surroundings. We were so taken by this enchanting place that we often forgot to click pictures.

That is the beauty called Ladakh! Back from just eight days in Ladakh, we couldn't get enough of it and are planning to return. The one thing we would do differently perhaps, is travel through the road.

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• Guest house or home stay: they actually become your extended home. I had an upset stomach one day and they made khichdi for me!

• Interact with the locals: they love talking to you and getting to know you better and they are an absolute delight to talk to.

• A bike ride: if not for a long trip at least around Leh for 50-70 odd kilometres. The drive in the midst of mountains will take you a different world • Tibetan cuisine in Leh: among the best momos, thukpa, sabagleb, the tastes of which will linger in your mouth for quite some time • And finally don’t miss - the chirping of birds in the morning; the absolute silence of the surroundings, and the star-studded night sky. You will miss these when you are back in a heavily populated and polluted city like Delhi.

We drove for around 80 km beyond Nubra valley along the river Shyok to the beautiful village of Turtuk. It is one of the last villages before the LOC; in

This is the Leh-Srinagar highway. Ride a bike on this road till Alchi village (70 km from Leh). The entire road is surrounded by such picturesque views on either side. Miles and miles of no man’s land, just crazy wind and a Royal Enfield, or as we Punjabis call it – Ride a Buultt!

Shanti Stupa situated on top of a hill and Leh city view from of Shanti Stupa.

I am not a religious person per se but the peace and beauty of the monasteries in Ladakh leave you spell bound.

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The sand dunes and the double humped camels at Nubra valley. You cannot miss the camel safari while in Ladakh.

And the camels are just so cute with their innocent faces and lovely names The camel I rode was named Shorabhi..

What a coincidence! Completely mesmerizing is the sight of the sand dunes right next to the snow clad mountains.

The beauty that is the Pangong lake. I just cant get over this place. It looks straight out of a painting, as if someone has sketched these perfect mountains. How can something be so flawless? This 134 km long lake runs from India to China which is just around 45 kms from where the Pangong campsites are located. This place soared in popularity after the movie ‘3 Idiots’ was shot here.

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Apricots

Butter Tea Apples

Thukpa

Sabagleb

fact before 1971, it was in Pakistan. The Indian army took Turtuk under their control during the 1971 war to protect the Nubra valley. Since 2010 civilians are being allowed to visit Turtuk. The lifestyle and features of the people of Turtuk is completely different to the rest of Ladakh. You cannot miss the sharp featured women and kids in this lush green village. Try to spend a night at a home stay right in the village, if you happen to visit the place; it's an experience of a lifetime!

Food in Ladakh Being a foodie, how can I not talk about the food here? While in Ladakh, you absolutely have to taste the Ladakhi tea (also called as Butter tea) that is made from a particular kind of tea leaves, and is repeatedly churned with milk in a special vessel to bring out the flavours. A perfect winter drink, no one really stops at one. Let's not forget the famous Thukpa, a regular in Ladakhi households during winters. And finally Sabagleb – bread stuffed with chicken or mutton and

bursting with flavours at each bite. You will also have the best momos in Ladakh – I am unsure if I will be able to savour any momos in Delhi for some time to come.

Ladakh in summers is full of fresh fruits. The perfect juicy little apples and apricots adorn the backyards of all houses. The locals would be happy to pluck some for you!

That’s largely what we could cover in a week. But next time, we want to visit the Tsomoriri lake (which apparently is prettier than Pangong lake), Zanskar river, Kargil/ Drass and the Panamik hot springs. We actually want to do a full road trip from Manali to Leh and then back from Leh to Srinagar. Can't wait already! ■

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BUSINESS

by Ravi Wazir

CORRECTING GUEST EXPERIENCES GONE G N O WR The importance

T

he importance of good customer experience in the hospitality business cannot be emphasised enough.

It is the most basic tenet of that very industry. Nonetheless, bad situations are a daily part of every member of this domain. However, what is imperative is learning how to transforming such situations from negative instances to positive situations.

In the course of my journey as a hospitality professional and having worked with standalone eateries, national restaurants, international

of good customer experience in the hospitality business cannot be emphasised enough. It is the most basic tenet of that very industry.

Ravi Wazir, restaurant consultant and author shares pointers from his experience. chain of cafés, sport bars and hotel brands, I have encountered various situations where guests had an unhappy experience when food establishments messed up, but which were was changed into a happy one. Here are some of the instances where I have employed strategies of success where of transforming bad situations into good ones.

splattered on the floor that he had just thrown in my direction.

“You call this ‘fresh’ cream?” he screamed angrily. I knelt down and dug into the cake with my finger.

“You are right, Sir, this isn’t fresh at all. In fact besides being sour, the cream has also absorbed the smell of the dishes in the fridge.

I’m sorry. When did you buy this?”

I asked.

Case #1: To regain your customer’s trust, don’t just tell the customer in words.

Prove it.

I looked at the elderly guest in shock and then at the cake

He looked at me with a surprised look and then cooled down a bit. “Day before yesterday for my wedding anniversary, which was yesterday. When we cut the cake in front of our guests and had the

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BUSINESS

first bite, my wife and I knew we couldn’t serve it to our guests.”

A quick look at the label on the cardboard base confirmed when he had bought it.

“This is our fault entirely, Sir. We should have communicated to you that our fresh cream cakes don’t last that long and should be consumed within a few hours. This is our responsibility.” He accepted a refund and left sadly. I discussed this communication gap with my team and a few days later we had a solution.

A week later, he was surprised when I called him to ask if I may visit him and then I handed him a cake with a label on top saying “Best consumed within 6 hours”,

and a message on top saying “Sorry, we messed up”. He nodded in acknowledgement. “You listened and acted. Well done!”

I told him, “It wasn’t just me, Sir, everyone on the team worked together to come up with this. We would like you to know that your feedback is truly valuable to us.

Please do give us another chance.”

Case #2: Sometimes, it is the response that matters more than the situation.

I had been called to a table at a restaurant I was working at by a celebrity who told me the fish served to her was raw in the centre. I apologised and took it to the chef who decided to resolve the problem by cooking it himself.

A short while later, it was reserved to the guest. I was called back to the table, along with the chef. “It is still raw,” she said. We stood stunned and red-eared in embarrassment. After a few awkward moments of silence, I summoned the courage to speak.

“I am truly sorry Ma’am.” I said.

“May I please offer you something else instead?”

“No,” she said, “I am not hungry anymore.”

I felt like sinking through the floor and could see the chef squirming as well. The lady watched us both quite red-eyed by now and then very graciously said, “Don’t worry.

I’m OK. Bad days happen!”

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BUSINESS We bowed out, went to the back of the restaurant and wept. In one stroke she had taught us about forgiveness. Every server on our team that day learnt that lesson.

Since then, whenever she visited any of our restaurants we moved to, we served her a different kind of respect – the kind reserved for nobility.

Case #3: When a problem does not seem like a problem from one perspective, resolving it conclusively requires a shift in perspective.

The dimly-lit ground floor restaurant of the hotel had been beautifully renovated and now sported huge French-window style glass sheets for the sunlight to pop in and add cheer. Things looked terrific till one busy day I heard the violent crashing sound of it shattering. I whirled to see the playful little boy who had run into it standing in a pool of splintered glass.

He looked at me for a moment and then began to cry.

I ran towards him as did a guest nearby to see a trickle of blood run down his nose and also from his elbow.

His mother, the only adult at the table who was dining with her two kids, screamed at her other child and then quite understandably, went berserk. I placed my handkerchief on his bleeding nose, asked one elderly waiter to hold it and sent another to fetch the hotel

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driver and car. “We need to take him to the hospital now, ma’am,” I said loudly to pull her out of her daze.

On our way to the hospital I discovered that they were from out of town. She gratefully acknowledged while I waited for the boy’s nose to be stitched up.

My mind, however, was on the glass. How did this happen? There was a clearly visible 3-inch sticker strip running across the whole length of the window.

When I returned to the spot I discovered the problem.

The height of the sticker made it visible to an adult but not to a child.

Whilst ordering a new glass I suggested that the complete bottom half be fully covered with a glazed sticker and also that the entire glass be shatter proof despite the high cost. Initially the directors wondered if I was over-reacting, saying it was a freak incident that would not happen again. When I stood my ground on the premise of safety however, everyone agreed.

Case #4: When bad restaurant experiences involve guests themselves being offenders.

A restaurant manager once informed me that a guest who was always pointing out some problem or the other under the pretext of getting at least one dish free, had now crossed the line. On visiting the

BUSINESS pay. She was banned from the restaurant and did not return. In rare cases, when a guest treats you unfairly time and again, it may become necessary to decline their patronage.

Case #5: Apart from examining right from wrong in an incident, we must be prepared for the legal ramifications of that incident.

I was passed a phone call by a colleague who was finding it hard to deal with an irate guest. The guest told me that our hotel valet had damaged her car, since shortly after she left our restaurant, her car engine had begun to release steam through the bonnet. She added that since her car had just been serviced, it had to be our fault and that we needed to compensate her for it while she would get it fixed by her own mechanic and pass us the bill. restaurant with her friend the previous day, she had made a scene and walked out refusing to pay the bill entirely. Along with a few team members I watched the visuals from the CCTV footage of her visit.

While there was no audio track, one part of the video left no doubt in anyone’s mind about the reality and her intentions. As they ate their food, she could be seen complaining while her friend shrugged her shoulder more than once to indicate that the food was fine. The lady herself continued eating and did not convey her displeasure to any server. Yet, when the bill came she made a scene and refused to pay. Her friend who found nothing wrong with the food then tried to pay the bill herself, but the errant guest just wouldn’t allow her. They left without paying the bill.

Since we didn’t have the guest’s name or number, I suggested that we speak with her when she next visited the restaurant. Every single service staff member was informed about the incident, shown the face of the guest and briefed about how to deal with her. She visited again in less than a fortnight.

She was politely received, handed over her non-paid bill and asked to pay up. When she declined, she was told that the management had watched what had happened and based on what they saw, had taken a decision not to serve her any more if she opted not to

I felt bad about her experience and wanted to give her a fair hearing in case our valet had indeed been responsible. I asked for a few hours to investigate the matter during which I spoke with the valet and other witnesses and also checked where exactly the car had been parked. During this time the guest called me several times.

As I patiently empathised with her, I realised that many bits of her story didn’t add up. Simultaneously we cross-verified the valet’s side of the story with neighbours who didn’t owe allegiance to the valet and found that he was telling the truth. By then, I had also checked with our legal counsel who had confirmed that the disclaimer on the valet tag clearly spelt out that the restaurant cannot be held liable for such a matter in any way. Since she was threatening legal recourse, we asked her to send us a written note which we would reply to legally, and we did. And the matter was resolved.

Anything can happen any time in business, whether it is hospitality or any other. As the philosopher Epictetus said, ‘It’s not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters.’ So modify how you react to situations and suddenly you will find yourself on top of things. ■

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Every monsoon the sound of sniffles and other minor irritants are commonplace. Happens as this does year after year, it makes sense to embark upon an immunity boosting dietary regimen just before these periods start so our families are stronger inside and able to vigorously defend against the microbes of the season. In this feature Chef Sumalya Sarkar, Executive Chef, The Gateway Resort, Damdama Lake, Gurgaon has shared a few drinks that are meant to strengthen our body's defences and keep us in the pink of health all year long.

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DRINKS TO BOOST YOUR IMMUNITY

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MIX IT UP

MUSKMELON, BOTTLE GOURD AND LEMON NECTAR SERVES: 1

INGREDIENTS 10ml muskmelon 15ml bottle gourd 2.5ml lemon juice Black salt, to taste 2.5ml forest honey METHOD

Pass muskmelon and bottle gourd in a juicer.

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl.

Mix honey and lemon juice.

Adjust the salt.

Serve fresh.

Recipe courtesy Chef Sumalya Sarkar, Executive Chef, The Gateway Resort Damdama Lake Gurgaon

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MIX IT UP

PINEAPPLE, BELL PEPPER AND FENNEL SEED NECTAR SERVES: 1

INGREDIENTS 5ml fennel seed water 20ml pineapple 5gm red bell pepper Black salt, to taste METHOD

Soak the fennel seed in the water overnight or at least for 4-5 hours.

Press the pineapple and bell pepper in a juicer.

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl.

Mix the fennel water.

Adjust the salt.

Serve fresh.

Recipe courtesy Chef Sumalya Sarkar, Executive Chef, The Gateway Resort Damdama Lake Gurgaon

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MIX IT UP

APPLE, BEETROOT, CARROT AND MINT NECTAR SERVES: 1

INGREDIENTS 10gm apple, chopped fine 5gm beetroot, chopped fine 10gm carrot, grated 1.25 ml fresh mint leaves Black salt, to taste METHOD

Pass the apple, beetroot carrot and mint through a juicer.

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl Adjust the salt Serve fresh.

Recipe courtesy Chef Sumalya Sarkar, Executive Chef, The Gateway Resort Damdama Lake Gurgaon

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MIX IT UP

WHEATGRASS, CUCUMBER AND CORIANDER NECTAR SERVES: 1

INGREDIENTS 15ml wheat grass 5ml cucumber 1.25ml fresh coriander Black salt, to taste 2.5ml lime juice METHOD

Pass the wheatgrass, cucumber and coriander through a juicer.

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl.

Stir in lemon juice.

Pour into glasses.

Add black salt.

Serve fresh.

Recipe courtesy Chef Sumalya Sarkar, Executive Chef, The Gateway Resort Damdama Lake Gurgaon

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MIX IT UP

ORANGE, CELERY AND GINGER NECTAR SERVES: 1

INGREDIENTS 20ml orange juice 1.25ml ginger 1/2 inch celery stalk 2.5ml lime juice Black salt, to taste METHOD

Pass the wheatgrass, cucumber and coriander through a juicer.

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl.

Stir in lemon juice.

Pour into glasses.

Add black salt.

Serve fresh.

Recipe courtesy Chef Sumalya Sarkar, Executive Chef, The Gateway Resort Damdama Lake Gurgaon

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BUSINESS

by Vinita Bhatia

GOOD FOOD EQUALS SAFE FOOD You could call them the Three Musketeers, with the twist being that while Alexander Dumas’ characters were quick to pick up arms against injustice of any nature, brothers MV Naveen, MV Nameet and their cousin KN Prasad, are busy propagating the theory of Zero Pesticide produce, a concept that their company, First Agro, has patented and is promoting aggressively in India. Vinita Bhatia talks to MV Naveen about how different Zero Pesticide is from organic farming and whether there are takers for this produce in India.

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BUSINESS Vinita Bhatia (VB): What was the trigger for starting First Agro, especially since none of the three founders were from the agricultural business?

MV Naveen (MVN): That is true.

Nameet was a commercial pilot in Canada. During his free time he would dabble in horticulture and new farming techniques. In fact, he was passionate about pesticide-free farming and showed me the data in 2008 about how consumers in India are importing produce and said, “Why don’t we do this on a mega scale?”

I was the regional VP in Hewlett Packard and came from the corporate world and understand data and statistics very well.

KN Prasad, my cousin, had a similar background from the supply chain industry and he too was enthusiastic when Nameet proposed this idea.

With growing urbanisation and increasing disposable income, people were looking for safe food.

Food security was becoming an important issue. We thought that the numbers looked promising, especially because the supply and demand ratio was skewed. What was also interesting is that while people were importing the produce from overseas, the produce would often change hands a couple of times before it reached the end consumers, compromising the quality. We thought we could cut out these intermediaries if we sold to one supplier in the country, who then sold to the end consumer and the prices would still be cheaper than the imported cost. And that

was how First Agro came into being in 2010.

VB: How did you raise capital for the company?

MVN: We are self-funded and have group companies. And we have internal cash accruals. We did not want to go to VCs because we did not want to have someone dictate how to run our company, at least in the initial days.

VB: Let’s talk about pesticides and their usage in India.

How high is it compared to international standards?

MVN: According to some studies, India spreads around 90,000 tonnes of pesticides on its fields every year, making it one of the largest users of pesticides in the world. Sadly, Indians end up consuming over 40 times more pesticides in their food than their American counterparts since 90 per cent of the food we eat is full of pesticides. Part of this happens out of sheer ignorance on the part of the farming fraternity. Let me explain this with a simple example.

Most farmers in India are not well educated about the effects of chemicals on the human body.

When their crops are affected by pests, they go to their local fertiliser shop and ask for some chemicals to get rid of the pest.

The shopkeeper gives them some pesticide and usually does not explain the correct measure in which to spray the chemical. Even if he does, sometimes, the farmer presumes that the more chemicals he sprays on to the crops, the faster the pests will perish, and

he muddles the dosage, without realising that it could have many ill effects on the health of the consumer who eats the final product.

Sometimes, farmers harvest immediately after the pesticides are sprayed on the crops, which means that the level of chemicals on the crops will be very high.

That is how some Indian crops have such levels of pesticides, due to sheer ignorance and human error.

Also, when companies get into mass-scale farming, their processes get homogenised and they have to focus on the revenue bottom lines.

This is best achieved when the crop output is good, which is why they have to use pesticides despite their best intent.

VB: Why is the use of pesticides so harmful for humans?

MVN: All pesticides are harmful to the human body, if ingested.

VB: What exactly does Zero Pesticide imply and how is it better than organic?

MVN: First, Zero Pesticide is a trademarked term that is used only by First Agro. It is much more evolved than organic farming, because we follow the internationally established Codex standards.

The Codex Alimentarius Commission was established in 1963 by the Food and Agriculture Organization and the World Health Organization and is a global reference point worldwide

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BUSINESS to ensure that consumers are unexposed to dangerous levels of toxic substance through food. This is done by subjecting all produce to tests that find out Maximum Residue Limits (MRLs) for Pesticides and Extraneous MRLs in the produce.

Whenever pesticide is sprayed on crops only a certain amount of it is absorbed by the plant, while the rest remains on its surface as residue. During the Codex test if a produce displays MRL that is above permissible limits, it means that it is unfit for human consumption and the company does not get Codex’s seal of approval.

Every six months we send our produce to one of the three labs in India that specialise in Codex testing. And, so far, our produce has always been approved as being free of pesticide.

Organic farmers and their suppliers are actually following no-pesticide or organic farming policies. They rarely go to a lab to get their products certified, so there is no way to be really sure how genuine their produce is.

Like I always tell, people who are involved in the business of organic produce are like those who have mugged up for their 10th exams, but never bothered about passing their exams!

VB: Do you think consumers in India are really aware, or concerned, about chemical overuse in crops?

MVN: Till a few years ago, I would

in safe food. That is heartening news because it means that with the explosion of information of how the overuse of chemicals is harming our bodies, people are becoming cautious of what is on their plate.

The first thing we learned is about the Indian system of jugaad when it comes to doing business! I come from Japan where we have never experienced power outage, and then we came to India where the power goes out for hours on end. We had to learn ways to keep the farm equipment running on backup power without running up very high power bills, which, I can tell you, can be very exhausting. have said no. But now we are working closely with chefs and they are doing their bit to educate their guests about the need to eat the right produce. Consumers are already aware of concepts like Farm-To-Fork as well as the muchabused organic produce, which indicates that there is an interest

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VB: Most customers are skeptical about terms like organic food, and now Zero Pesticide, because the price of such produce is quite prohibitive. Most of these are considered to be too exotic to be a part of one’s daily diet. Do you think the mode of cultivation justifies the end cost of these produce?

MVN: This might come as a massive surprise to your readers.

But if a company were to follow the traditional farming methods and not use pesticides and chemicals while growing crops, then the cost of the produce would actually be much higher than what you pay when you buy from your sabjiwala.

I know people who think that First Agro’s produce is overpriced.

But that is because it is not mass produced. Also, it is a lifestyle choice one has to make. You can either pay more for produce that is free of chemicals, and hence, healthier. Or, you can choose to spend later on your medical bills because you are exposed to ailments courtesy all the chemicals you are ingesting from regular produce.

VB: What were some of the mistakes you made along the way while setting up First Agro?

MVN: What we have learned in

BUSINESS Then again, we realised that while India has huge human capital, their understanding of farming practices and our expectations were poles apart. After some misfires we finally got the right people on board who shared our vision and could keep things going at the optimal level.

Of course, I don’t even want to get into the various policies and red-tapism that exists for any business to function in India. Initially it was quite frustrating. But over time, we found our way around it.

You can either pay more for produce that is free of chemicals, and hence, healthier. Or, you can choose to spend later on your medical bills because you are exposed to ailments, courtesy all the chemicals you are ingesting from regular produce. the past three years can fill up a library. The first thing we learned is about the Indian system of jugaad when it comes to doing business! I come from Japan, where we have never experienced power outage, and then we came to India, where the power goes out for hours on end. We had to learn ways to keep the farm equipment running on backup power without running up very high power bills, which, I can tell you, can be very exhausting.

Initially, despite Nameet’s extensive knowledge of horticulture, olericulture (the science of vegetable growing) and hydroponics (soilless farming), we were not successful when we tried to grow some of his vegetables in our Talakad farm. When he was later successful and we started offering cherry tomatoes in green and purple colours, then our customers were amazed and even shocked. Later, it was also not easy convincing retailers, even the big ones, about Zero Pesticide produce and most of them just turned us down. We had a tough time explaining to them that we were not the same as other organic produce suppliers.

VB: How many tonnes of produce are you shipping to retailers and restaurants in India currently?

MVN: We are shipping around 30 tonnes of produce to large format retailers such as HyperCity, Foodhall, More, Godrej Nature’s Basket, etc., and hospitality brands such as The Oberoi, The Taj Group of Hotels, JW Marriott, and Ritz Carlton on a monthly basis.

VB: I believe you are now looking at expanding your land base in India. What were some of the criteria you had while scouting for land?

MVN: First Agro's farm currently is at Talakad, near Mysore in Karnataka. It is spread over 45 acres of land. Here, we grow more than 40 varieties of produce, including 15 tomato variants such as Heirloom, San Marzano, Roma, etc. Besides this, we have exotic Japanese produce like Komatsuna, which is Japanese mustard spinach, and Mizuna, which is Japanese mustard lettuce. We also have striking lettuce like the purple coloured Triple Lola Rosa as well as the Double Lola Rosa. These are not easy to cultivate and need a specific kind of soil and environment, as well as constant monitoring in the greenhouse.

We have identified farms in Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh and are negotiating with the respective agencies for setting up our operations there. However, we are clear that wherever we open our farms, we will be directly involved and it will not be franchisee models. We want to be in control of what we grow because that is the only way we can be confident about the quality of our produce and also the cost at which we can make it available to our customers. ■ CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015 | 67

CULTURE

by RHEA MITRA-DALAL

A Thousand Years of Fusion A thousand years of fusion has resulted in a unique cuisine that celebrates local produce and ingredients and yet holds on to the rich culinary heritage of the land of its origin. Rhea Mitra-Dalal takes us through a journey that demystifies this great cuisine.

P

arsi Food – the words evoke images of Dhansakh and Patra ni Machhi in most people’s minds. But there’s much more to the cuisine of this much beloved community epitomised by philanthropy and eccentricity in equal measure. The Parsis arrived in India as refugees from Iran, a little more than a thousand years ago and first settled on the Gujarat coast. Legend has it that the leader of the earliest groups went to meet a local chieftain to seek asylum.

The chieftain showed him a bowl brimming with milk and said his land was like that bowl, with no room for more. The leader of the refugees sprinkled sugar into the milk and said, like the sugar, he and his people would not only blend into the milk but would improve it too. And thus the Parsis remained in India, and not only did they blend in, they certainly added plenty of sweetness to the land.

component of the meal and they were skilled bakers.

In India they found an abundant variety of fish, fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs, a wide range of spices, and coconuts. . Most of modern Parsi cuisine that we see in India is a result of a fusion of Persian with Gujarati and coastal dishes, with influences from British cuisine, along with a dash of Portuguese thrown in.

A rich food heritage In Iran their diet included plenty of meat and wheat, punctuated with a profusion of fruit which was also dried to last through the year, pulses, herbs, a few spices, saffron, onions and garlic. Bread was a big

There was no Dhansakh in Persia, nor was there any Patra ni Machhi. However we see Persian ancestry in the Pullaos, and in various other preparations that use dried fruit like apricots, raisins, currants, and saffron.

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Evolving classics Thus were born classics like Patra ni Machhi that uses coriander and coconut, the vividly red Parsi curries that use coconut, dried red chillies and poppy seeds, the Patio which uses vinegar, red chillies, tomatoes, and is garnished with vegetables like drumsticks and baby brinjals, Lagan nu Custard which is a classic British egg and milk custard with cardamom and nutmeg added to the mix and topped with nuts and dried fruit, to name a few.

PHOTO BY RHEA MITRA-DALAL

CULTURE Chicken Farcha, a beloved Parsi snack.

There was no Dhansakh in Persia, nor was there any Patra ni Machhi.

However we see Persian ancestry in the Pullaos, and in various other preparations.

Festivals and celebrations August is a month of celebration with three important days – there’s Pateti, Navroze, and Khordad Saal.

Pateti is the last day of the year and is a relatively solemn occasion where one reflects on the deeds of the year gone by; taking stock of the good and bad one has done, and resolves on doing better in the forthcoming year. Navroze, the ‘new day’, is the first day of the New Year and brings with it hope

for a new beginning, celebrated with feasting and family outings to plays and concerts. Khordad Saal is the day of the Prophet Zoroaster’s birth. All three days are marked with visits to the Agiary (fire temple) and plenty of good food.

An invitation to a Navjote (initiation) or Lagan (wedding) is quite coveted for the guest is guaranteed to be wined and dined in style.

In the old days a wedding feast menu featured mutton dishes from

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CULTURE

Enfants Parsis

by Erica GuilaneNachez

start to finish. The menu featured

Eggs have always Aleti Paleti (pan fried offal in a gravy), Bhaji Dana ma Gos ruled the roost in spicy (mutton cooked in fresh greens and Parsi kitchens and peas), Khattu Gos (mutton cooked in curd) and a sumptuous mutton there is an endless pullao or plain rice accompanied by Masala ni Daar (spicy daal). Mhowvariety of egg di, a liqueur made from the mahua preparations, the most flowers, would be served in little well-known being ‘Sali silver cups called ‘fuliyas’. per Eeda’ or eggs on The wonder that is eggs The advent of poultry farms and straw potatoes. broiler chicken has changed the 70 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

Parsi diet considerably. Eggs have always ruled the roost in Parsi kitchens and there is an endless variety of egg preparations, the most well-known being ‘Sali per Eeda’ or eggs on straw potatoes. Kasa per Eeda or eggs on something is an entire chapter in Parsi cuisine where eggs are steamed on top of a variety of bases. The base could be leftover vegetables, a simple mix of onions, tomatoes, and spices, a piquant kheema, or something as decadent as clotted cream!

Fish also gained popularity and today, no Parsi feast is complete without Patra ni Machhi or Sahs ni Machhi made with pomfrets, the Parsi’s favourite fish.

A thousand years of fusion While the Parsi loves proteins more, there is quite a variety of vegetarian recipes in the repertoire – much to most non Parsis’ surprise. Granted, most vegetable recipes have some meat added ‘to make it palatable’ but there are plenty of completely meatless vegetable preparations too, no doubt

the result of intermingling with local communities and the sheer abundance of vegetables in India.

The cuisine today is a wonderful mix of original Persian preparations with strong local influences starting in Gujarat, going south along the western coast as they moved towards Bombay and beyond, right down till Goa. A thousand years of fusion has resulted in a unique cuisine that celebrates local produce and ingredients and yet holds on to the rich culinary heritage of the land of its origin. ■

CULTURE While the Parsi loves proteins more, there is quite a variety of vegetarian recipes in the repertoire – much to most non Parsis’ surprise.

PHOTOS BY RHEA MITRA-DALAL

Prawn Patio, another beloved Parsi dish made with prawns and eggplant.

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CULTURE

RECIPES

BOTI NI AKURI (Akuri with Mutton) INGREDIENTS 6 eggs 5 to 6 pieces of boneless mutton boiled and chopped as small as possible 2 onions, sliced and deep fried 3 green chillies finely chopped 2 tbsp coriander, finely chopped 1 tbsp fresh mint, chopped ½ tsp turmeric ½ tsp black pepper powder ½ tsp Dhansakh masala 3 tbsp butter Salt as required

METHOD 1. In a wok heat the butter and fry the green chillies, mint, coriander and spices gently for a couple of minutes.

2. Add the chopped mutton pieces and fried onions and cook for five minutes ensuring nothing sticks to the wok.

3. Beat eggs in a bowl adding salt and a little water or milk. Pour the beaten eggs into the wok, mixing as you pour.

4. Take off the heat when the eggs reach the consistency you like.

5. Serve hot with rotis or bread, or on toast.

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CULTURE

RECIPES

BHAJI DANA MA GOS (Mutton with Fresh Greens and Peas) INGREDIENTS 1 kilo mutton 250 gms green peas 4 bunches amaranth leaves 1 bunch dill 1 bunch fenugreek 1 bunch coriander 4 onions chopped 1 ½ tbsp ginger-garlic paste 1 tbsp black pepper powder 1 tbsp garam masala powder 1 ½ tsp turmeric 1 ½ tsp red chilli powder 2 -3 tsp sugar Juice of 3 limes Salt Ghee

METHOD 1. Wash all the greens really well, pick leaves, chop fine.

2. Marinate the mutton in salt and the ginger-garlic paste.

3. Reserve a quarter of the chopped onions, and fry the remaining in hot ghee in your pressure cooker. Add the mutton, stir for a few minutes to braise. Put in the pepper powder and enough water and pressure cook till the mutton is done.

4. In another wok, fry the reserved onions in hot ghee till soft. Add the green peas (if using frozen peas add them at the last stage).

5. Stir in the chopped greens and let the whole mix simmer. Add turmeric and chilli powder and allow the greens to turn soft. Add water to cook the peas if required.

6. Now, add the cooked meat to the pot. Let it all simmer till the stock is reduced and it’s at a consistency you like. Adjust salt as required.

7. Serve hot with parathas, rotis or any bread.

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CULTURE

RECIPES

LAGAN NU ISTEW (Parsi Wedding Stew) INGREDIENTS 100gms each carrot, sweet potato, purple yam, elephant’s foot yam, potato, all cubed ½ cup green peas, boiled ½ cup fresh coriander, finely chopped 4 large onions chopped 2 tsp chopped ginger 2 tsp turmeric 1 tbsp chilli powder 1 tsp pepper powder ½ tsp nutmeg and cardamom powder ½ cup sultanas and raisins 10 dried stoned apricots ½ cup stoned and chopped dates 4 tbsp sugar ¼ cup cane vinegar salt oil ghee

METHOD 1. Salt the cubed vegetables and deep fry each separately. Drain and reserve.

2. Soak sultanas, raisins and dried apricots in the vinegar with the sugar stirred in.

3. Fry the onions in ghee till browned. Add the chopped ginger, turmeric, chilli, pepper, nutmeg, cardamom powders and salt and give it a stir.

4. Reserve a little coriander for garnish and add the rest into the pot along with the fried vegetables.

5. Put in the chopped dates and cook for five minutes.

6. Now add the soaked fruits and the vinegar-sugar solution and leave the Istew to cook covered for around 15 minutes on simmer. Stir in the green peas.

7. Remove to a serving dish and garnish with the reserved coriander. Enjoy with hot rotis.

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CULTURE

RECIPES

MAIWHALAN

(Baked Chicken with Cream and Eggs, Parsi Style) INGREDIENTS 1 whole roast chicken, shredded or chopped into really small pieces 500 gms heavy cream 8 eggs, separated 10 each, almonds and pistachios, boiled, sliced and lightly fried 20 raisins, lightly fried 2 tsp charoli, washed 1 tsp minced green chilli ½ tsp black pepper powder Salt

METHOD 1. In a large vessel gently mix the shredded or chopped chicken with the cream, fried nuts, raisins, green chillies, salt and pepper.

2. Beat the egg whites till stiff. Blend into the chicken mixture and then transfer everything into a baking dish.

3. Smooth out the top and make 8 depressions on the top. Place an egg yolk carefully into each depression and lightly sprinkle salt on each yolk.

4. Bake in a moderate oven at around 160C till the yolks are just set.

5. Serve hot with bread or rotis.

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ALCOHOL

by JASWINDER SINGH

Reinventing, Like the phoenix All things considered, seldom does a brand listen and turn things around. Jaswinder Singh think Sula to be a case is point, clearly illustrating a strong will to change, improve and reinvent.

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espite social media bringing the consumer in direct contact with brands, seldom does a brand listen and turn things around. Even rarer for me to go back on my word and say that I would give a brand another chance, as I now say about Sula, having tasted their produce again recently. There was a time when I would swear Sula was doing a great job in putting Indian produce on the world map. I have had the privilege of converting hard core rum and coke people to wine with Sula’s products long time ago. Heck, they were even listed on Finnair’s wine list at one point, although I don’t know the present status. But they let go of the ball and soon things were spiraling out of control on the product side. Today, I say this proudly – Sula have turned things around on their product at least. Rajeev Samant has done a great job in selecting the right people for the right jobs at the top.

One such beautiful person is Cecilia Oldne, the brand ambassador of Sula. Cecilia has that rather rare combination of beauty and brains that would leave men weak in their knees. The fact that they would be drinking some excellent wines has nothing to do with it. Well, almost. But then, she is the voice and face for Sula, the biggest name in Indian wines so far. And she has done her job to perfection, taking the consumer response to her team and putting it to good use in reinventing the brand, almost like a Phoenix.

So what went wrong with brand Sula? Even though the production and consumption of wine has steadily increased in India over the past few years, the biggest challenge still remains in the mindset of the distribu-

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tion network. Last mile connectivity with the retailers is still is a pain point for Indian wine producers. Wine makers and wineries are storing wines in temperature controlled rooms, refrigerated distribution trucks are being used; with little training and incentives, distributors are storing wines in better conditions than earlier. However, the retailers, for reasons ranging from high electricity costs to lack of space, are letting down producers and consumers.

Wines off the shelf are often found to be substandard and lacking that oomph factor that the wine maker worked so hard for. In a candid one-on-one with Chef at Large, Cecilia outlined this gap at the retail point of sale as her biggest challenge, one that she plans to tackle by going to the retailers and training them on wine storage and sale.

All that is from the business point of view. So, what about the wines? Since very early in its life, brand Sula has ventured successfully into the domain of importing wines from different regions across the globe.

Their inventory today boasts of some of the biggest names in global wine production. This time, they were pairing them up with some Sushi and Teppanyaki at Shiro, New Delhi.

Shiro is one of my personal favorite spots in the city.

On a hot summer day in Delhi, there’s nothing better than the near Zen like calm and composed ambience of that place. Add to that a good wine and there’s a recipe for a winning smile on everyone’s face, the kind of stuff that can bring World Peace. Not that I’m contesting for the Miss India title, but then who wouldn’t like some World Peace?

ALCOHOL

The notorious Indian summer demands the best coolers the Universe has to offer. Luckily, the grapes that Indian wine producers have adapted to the rather hot conditions do the trick. Rieslings feature on my summer must-have lists apart from Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. They tend to have a sweeter finish that cuts out the hottest day’s temperature in New Delhi by a few notches for sure.

Hardy’s Riesling 2013 does that effortlessly. Crisp on the palate with plenty of citrusy notes of ripe grapefruit and peaches coupled with lively, rife acidity that just lights up the senses, this is an excellent wine for a summer barbecue brunch with friends.

The Sula Estate Riesling 2013, in comparison, falls a notch short on the sweet finish, lending a far more crisp and citric acidity on

the palate that is typical of Indian product. It happens because of the comparatively hotter weather during the harvest season.

Next in line was the Sula Estate Malbec 2012. Hints of mineral on the nose and palate with milder spicy notes and a lighter body for a Malbec, the Estate Malbec 2012 is an easy drinking wine best reserved for a rainy day during the monsoons when the temperatures dip slightly. The nose has milder aromas of dark fruits that are slightly under ripe, most significant being plums and cassis. The tannins are slightly rough around the edge as well, giving it a rather angry young woman appeal without being offensive on the senses.

Another contender that evening was the Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2011.

Very expressive on the nose and the palate with hints of spices, flowers and ripe dark fruit, the Cono Sur Pinot Noir comes with smoother tannins that makes it a very relaxing drink after a long day at work. I am a big fan of the Chilean wines anyway, and the Cono Sur has always featured on my must-haves list.

All said and done, the difference between the showcase product and the retail product is quite a challenge for the brand. I would still wait and watch what Sula does to change the ground realities at the retail outlet side of operations.

But one thing is for sure, they have pulled up their socks when it comes to their product. Cheers to that! ■

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WISHLIST

by CHARIS BHAGIANATHAN

TOP 5 CUPCAKE STOPS IN NEW YORK

To Charis Bhagianathan, cupcakes are the perfect dessert.

They're presented individually, which accounts for a certain degree of neat sophistication. They’re easily adaptable to any flavor or taste, and they can be dressed in beautiful sprinkles or edible glitter. Here are Charis' top cupcake haunts in NY.

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ew York is the unofficial birthplace of cupcakes and the minute I landed here, I knew I had to scope out the best in the city. I’m always suspicious of people who don’t like cupcakes. I mean, come on! They’re mini cakes with frosting and sprinkles. What’s not to love? I remember the first cupcakes I had ever tasted. There were six on a white plate, risen to a beautiful golden brown, topped with a delicate twirl of vanilla buttercream the colour of pale sunshine, and covered in a shower of rainbow sprinkles. I fell in love that very instant.

To me, cupcakes are the perfect dessert. They are presented individually, which accounts for a certain degree of neat sophistication. They’re easily adaptable to any flavour or taste, and give their makers a chance to dress them in beautiful sprinkles or edible glitter as a finishing touch.

Here are the top 5 most popular cupcake joints in New York.

1

MAGNOLIA BAKERY Made famous by the TV show 'Sex and the City', this little bakery always has a line all the way down the street from it. Although most patrons are tourists, many locals have specific favourites they keep returning for. The Devil’s Food cake (with caramel meringue) and the Hummingbird (banana,

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pineapple and pecan) are some of its top sellers. Magnolia does the classic cupcake well, a standard cake base with buttercream and many variations on that.

They have specials that change every day, and monthly specials as well. This month, it’s their Blueberry lemon cupcake with lemon cream cheese icing that’s the star. Other desserts, such as the banana pudding, are also very popular.

Try: Carrie cupcake and Hummingbird cupcake Location: 401 Bleecker Street (and others)

2

Baked by Melissa Cupcakes are already mini cakes, right? Then what are mini cupcakes? They’re the cutest things ever! Baked by Melissa took New York by storm when the first shop opened in Soho in 2009. People went nuts for the tiny, beautifully decorated, almost too-cute-to-eat cupcakes that came in every flavour and colour imaginable. And because they’re so tiny and adorable, most patrons walk out with 24 assorted cupcakes that look like a rainbow exploded in a box.

Baked by Melissa introduces unique flavours each month, like Lemon Cuparon (lemon cupcake with a lemon macaron on top) and Cookies in Milk (white milk cupcake with a cookie centre and cookie cream frosting). They also make cupcakes that are completely dipped and covered in chocolate, they come in flavours such as Pink velvet and Peanut butter fluff.

Try: Tie-Dye, Cookie Dough and Peanut butter jelly.

Location: 110 Fulton Street (and others)

3

Crumbs Bake shop One of the oldest cupcake bakeries in New York (opened in 2003), Crumbs is known for its signature size cupcakes, which are about double the size of a standard cupcake. Crumbs also makes a Colossal Cupcake, which is practically a mini cake in the shape of a cupcake. This bake shop has a loyal fan following, who return for their favourites, such as the rich chocolate Blackout cupcake and the light green and minty Grasshopper classic. They also do mini taste boxes in packs of six or twelve for those who like a little taste of everything.

Try: Blackout, Apple Cobbler and Grasshopper Location: 40 Broad Street (and others)

4

Sprinkles Calling themselves the 'world’s first cupcake bakery', and opening doors in Beverly Hills in 2005, Sprinkles has to its credit a few other cupcake 'firsts'. Their travelling food truck called Sprinklesmobile is a first-of-its-kind cupcake truck, and when they introduced the world’s first cupcake ATM, cupcake lovers went berserk with joy. Sprinkles specialise in classic cupcakes made with the best ingredients possible, although they do have some intriguing

flavours on the menu, such as the Chai Latte cupcake.

Sprinkles also makes gluten-free and vegan variations of their signature red velvet cupcake, as well as an adorable doggie cupcake topped with yogurt frosting for those who can’t say no to their four-legged babies!

Try: Banana dark chocolate and Red velvet Location: 780 Lexington Avenue

5

Baked Known and loved for their perfectly cakeyfudgy brownies, it is a little ironic that Baked has some of the best cupcakes in town because the creators, Matt and Renato, wanted to 'Open a great American bakery that is not a cupcake shop'. Their vanilla cupcake is simple and delicious, which is a rarity, while their chocolate one (Sweet and Salty) is made better with sea salt and salted caramel to compliment and contrast the sweetness. Some other interesting flavours include the Green tea, an almond cake with green tea buttercream; the Raspberry lemonade, a lemon cake with raspberry jam and lemon curd and Citrus Passion fruit, a white cake with orange and lime and a passion fruit buttercream. All their cupcake flavours are also available as full-size cakes too.

Try: Sweet and Salty Location: 359 Van Brunt Street (and others) ■ CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015 | 83

BOOK REVIEW

by NISHA PILLAI

A TASTE OF BENGAL IN YOUR KITCHEN Book: The Bengal Cookbook Author: Minakshie Das Gupta Price: INR 298 (Amazon India) ISBN 10/13: 8174762051 / 978-8174762054 Pages: 218 Language: English Publisher: UBS Publishers Distributors Date of Publishing: 15 November 2003

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or a long time, I have tried very hard to recreate some of the traditional dishes from West Bengal that I have tasted as a child in the Bengali homes of my schoolmates. Aromatic Aaloo Postos, tongue tickling Ghugnis, and the biggest draw of them all for me was Maacher Jhol; delicious, spicy and perfectly complete with white rice. It was nothing like the Kerala fish curries I had at home that were cooked in creamy, ground coconut gravy. These simpler curries had thinner gravies and were a world apart when it came to the spectrum of flavours.

But when I recreated those dreamy flavours years later in my own kitchen, from the tastes and aromas etched in my memory, they never came out right for some reason. That reason turned out to be the lack of knowledge of basic cooking techniques and spices that are generally used in a traditional Bengali kitchen. That is when I decided I needed a cookbook to guide me, to make me unlearn what I grew up with, and start fresh with this unique but simple cuisine.

There are plenty of cookbooks if you look online, to teach you everything about the cuisine of West Bengal, after all anybody can write a cookbook. But to write a cookbook

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Cookbooks that guide people new to a cuisine, through the basic methods and encourages them to create complete meals using clear and concise directions, in understandable language and also with the flexibility of substituting an ingredient here or there, are rare. Nisha Pillai thinks Bangla Ranna is one such book and recommends it wholeheartedly.

that actually guides people new to this cuisine, through the basic methods and encourages them to create a complete meal using clear and concise directions, in understandable language and also with the flexibility of substituting an ingredient here or there, is rare. The highly recommended cook books that met most of this criteria came mostly in Bengali and the ones in English were very limited. I asked a few trusted sources and ended up buying a copy of Bangla Ranna in English by Minakshie DasGupta.

The author has very wisely included valuable insight to the average Bengali household, starting from the introduction to the average Bengali housewife and her traits, eating the Bengali way and an overview of regular and special meal menus, introductions, to commonly used spices, measurements, and a glossary of them in three languages, along with a column for suggested alternatives, (which happens to be another facet of this cookbook that impressed me.)

The contents smoothly provide a comprehensive and progressive coverage of recipes in detail broadly classified under Cereals, Lentils, Vegetables, Fish and Meat, Chicken and Eggs, A pleasant surprise was finding a recipe section on Anglo-Indian recipes adapted and beautifully weaved into the rich tapestry of traditional thanks to the lingering tastes left behind, long after the Colonists left. Alu Chop,

Bengali cuisine has a rich history and is one of India's most sophisticated, which this book does ample justice to.

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Coorkit and Tomato Farci are beautiful examples that are still served as side dishes and very much popular.

Chutneys and Pickles, Snacks, Sweets, are all covered in detail with insightful introductions and a variety of recipes. The very last section is reminiscent of a perfect Bengali feast that concludes with a mouthful of Paan, with a brief Paan O Moshla (Betel Leaf) section.

Cons • The pictures are grouped together and not with the recipes. And even when you find the picture, there are no page numbers for the corresponding recipes.

• You won’t find Jhinge Chingri or Mangshor Dolma under Fish or Meat sections respectively but can be found under Vegetables section. This might not work if you are trying to find a particular recipe in a jiffy.

Pros • The book has over 200 detailed recipes that are well organized and doesn’t scare off a novice with cookery jargon. The step by step introduction and guide to the novice cook as well as holds enough challenge to keep the experienced cook interested.

• The measurements are accurate and hard to mess up.

• The pictures are well captured and gives you a good idea what the final fruit of your efforts will look like.

• Every dish has its English and Original Bengali name so that you know exactly what dish you are cooking up.

Macher Jhol, a very well known Bengali fish dish.

The recipes I tried came out really good, which means the author has provided tried and tested recipes, which will never fail to give you a predictably good outcome. I recommend this book to anyone who wants to try out the authentic cuisine of West Bengal or those just starting out to cook.. This book will grace any cookbook collection and will do equally well as a dog-eared, food stained book that will be used every other day by the cook of the house. ■

MURI GHANTO

FISH HEAD CURRY COOKED WITH MUNG DAL INGREDIENTS: ½ kg fish head (rui, mrigel, katla, bekti 1 tbsp ginger paste or rawas) 250 grams mung dal, cleaned, boiled 1 ½ tbsp cumin paste and drained (not mushy) 1 tbsp coriander paste 1 cup water ½ tbsp turmeric paste 8-10 tbsp oil ½ tsp chilli paste 1 tbsp ghee METHOD: 1. Wash fish head thoroughly and fry in hot oil until just browned. Remove from pan. With the wooden end of a knife or a mallet, break fish head into pieces. In the same pan and hot oil, add the masala pastes.

Fry for about 5 minutes then add the cooked mung dal, mix thoroughly with the masalas and fry for about 5 minutes.

2. Add water and the broken fish heads, salt and sugar to taste. Stir well.

3. Cover, reduce heat to a mild simmer, and continue cooking until it starts thickening up.

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4 bay leaves ½ tbsp garam masala ( powdered cloves, cinnamon and green cardamom in equal proportions) salt to taste 1 tsp sugar

4. In a separate pan, heat the ghee, add bay leaves, fry for a few minutes and pour over Muri Ghanto.

Add garam masala paste or powder to the Ghanto.

Stir, cook for a couple minutes and remove from fire.

Small cubed potatoes can be fried and added to the Muri Ghanto towards the end of the cooking period.

The original recipe is made with rice instead of Mung dal.

But Mung or Channa dal are accepted variations that can be used to make Muri Ghanto and the above recipe is made with one of the suggested variations by the author.

Trying to lose weight and develop a healthier body? We bring help!

The Paleo Diet, Page 38 The Truth about Saturated Fat, Cholesterol and Heart Disease, Page 136

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MOVIE REVIEW

The Hundred Foot Journey The Hundred-Foot Journey is a story that offers a variety of perceptions: what is acceptability, what is survival and what is fame?

It makes you question core values such as family and future, and how to balance the two, or whether a balance is even possible at all.

S

PARUL PRATAP SHIRAZI

pace has different connotations for different people and what seems like no space at all – a hundred feet – can mean a world of apprehension, opportunity and education for some! The Hundred-Foot Journey is a story that offers a variety of perceptions: what is acceptability, what is survival and what is fame? It makes you question core values such as family and future, and how to balance the two, or whether a balance is even possible at all. What starts as the tale of a distraught Kadam family goes on to become a beacon of pride and a source of real joy for almost every viewer.

Displaced by politico-religious rioting, the Kadam family is driving across Europe, post a stint in London, and are looking for a new domicile.

Bereft of their mother, whom they lost to the riot, they’re heralded by the stoic yet effusive Om Puri as the father. There are five Kadam children, ranging from the ages of 10 to 25, all of whom carry the story ever so gently on their shoulders.

The first thing that draws you to the family is the way they argue; every close family does exactly the same! They chance upon their fate when their car breaks down at a quaint town in France. France, the land of cuisine royalty, and as luck would have it, the Kadams' - for they are erstwhile restaurateurs, with one child destined for culinary stardom!

The story then adds a protagonist who draws sides like war would: Helen Mirren (Madame Mallory), the proud owner of a Michelin-starred kitchen in that very town. The stubborn Kadam patriarch buys the property across from her dainty, eclectic eatery, only to open the garish but extremely welcoming ‘Maison Mumbai’. A bistro that serves Kadam family recipes, executed by the handsome Hassan, whose heart is as much in his food as it is in Madame Mallory’s Sous Chef, Marguerite!

A boy ‘who knows’, a boy who learned from his mother, who tastes food like it is the first meal he has had in years, a boy to watch with absolute love and amazement! Hassan’s endearing, childish eagerness to learn is shadowed by Marguerite’s deep ambition as they waltz among the hostility that

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THE HUNDRED-FOOT JOURNEY OMELETTE INGREDIENTS 4 Eggs ¼ cup Fresh Coriander, chopped 1 Fresh Red Chilli, finely chopped ½ White Onion, thinly sliced 1 tsp Red Chilli Powder

½ tsp Cumin Powder ¼ cup Milk ½ tsp Salt 1 tsp Olive Oil *Non-Stick Pan

METHOD 1. Break the eggs into a clean dry bowl. Whisk up to froth with a wire whisk, gently and counterclockwise.

2. Season with red chilli powder, cumin powder and salt; gently stir in the fresh coriander and the red chilli bits, then add the milk and bring it all together.

3. Heat a non-stick pan, grease with olive oil and pour in the omelette mix. Use a wooden spoon to stir the centre as it starts to cook to create layers of fluffy egg.

4. Top with white onion slices. As the omelette sets, use your fist on the handle to loosen it from the pan, fold over and tumble onto a plate.

5. Serve hot.

is slowly building tempo, and when it explodes, both sides lose as much as they seem to gain. In the story lie many lessons – of tolerance, of trained talent and an inherent one, of moving on while moving ahead, and finally, of coming back to what really matters.

Produced by stalwarts such as Steven Spielberg and Oprah Winfrey for DreamWorks Pictures, through their respective production companies, Amblin Entertainment and Harpo Films, in association with Participant Media and Image Nation, the movie was released by Touchstone Pictures in the year 2014 and

joins the list of beautifully shot, food-themed movies.

The food on screen is spectacular and that’s not even what matters because, by the end of it, you’re left with a hungry stomach, but a full heart. Watch this movie if you love food, but more if you love cinema that intersperses human values and everyday humanness in the most entertaining way. There are unforgettable quotes and scenes and it all comes together in a hundred feet of space. ■ “In this restaurant, cuisine is not an old, tired marriage.

It is a passionate affair.” – Madame Mallory CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015 | 89

by VINITA BHATIA

CULTURE

You Dim Sum, You Lose Some Invited for a Yum Cha party but confused what to order from the Dim Sum cart? Let us try and help you manoeuvre through the perplexing profusion of these delectable morsels without looking ill-informed.

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hile it began as a snack to be savoured with tea, over time, as it gained popularity across the world, Dim Sum began to be eaten through the day from breakfast to dinner. Dim Sum is becoming so popular that not just Oriental restaurants but even other multi-cuisine eateries are putting them on their menus. Now, some people know their Har Gao from their Siu Mai but the majority think that dim sum stands for steamed and stuffed rice dumplings. Unfortunate, because the history of these tiny morsels can be traced back to China to about 2000 odd years ago, when it was a delicacy reserved for the pleasure of royalty alone.

Later it was served to the prosperous merchants who stopped at the upscale tea houses of the famous Silk Route and became part of the Yum Cha tradition, which basically meant a tea time ritual. Dim sum is meant to appease the appetite but not satiate it and hence is the perfect tea time accompaniment. Eating dim sum at a restaurant is also called Yum Cha, which means ‘drink tea’ in Cantonese, or Dian Xin in Mandarin, which means ‘touch the heart’.

While it began as a snack to be savoured with tea, over time, as it gained popularity across the world, dim sum began to be eaten through the day from breakfast to dinner. After all, there is no wrong time to enjoy it! In China, dim sum restaurants do not have a menu. They usually have a cart or a section where the bamboo steamers have various dim sum and Dim sum refers to a Cantonese method of cook- guests are encouraged to try any of them. Dim sum ing, involving multiple cooking techniques, can be of different types – steamed, boiled, pan fried where the result is small, bite-sized morsels. The or deep fried. There is variety in the wrappers, such as phrase 'dim sums', made popular by the assump- the wonton skins or doughy buns. The buns are made tion that 'dim sum' means 'dumpings', is incor- with flour, yeast and baking powder and are either steamed or baked.

rect, and we can't 'eat dim sum' either.

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CULTURE

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CULTURE

KALEIDOSCOPE.CULTURAL-CHINA.COM

SOME POPULAR DIM SUM Selecting dim sum can be quite confusing if you are new to ordering this delicacy. With so many options to choose from, it can be quite bewildering. Here are some of the more popular options to help make things easier:

CHA SIU BAO

ZHENG JIAO

These classic steamed dumplings have a translucent wrapper with around 7 to 10 pleats. The skin is made with wheat starch giving it extra stretchiness, translucency and sturdiness so that the prawn filling does not come out.

Bao means buns in Chinese.

These steamed dumplings are made with a filling of BBQ pork. The dough of the bun is slightly yeasty and dense, which is offset by the sweet and savoury marinade of the pork.

These dumplings look like gumdrops with multiple pleats on their top, which is their characteristic feature.

They are usually stuffed with a combination of juicy stir fried meat or vegetables and are then steamed.

TURNIP CAKE

SIU MAI OR SHAO MAI

FEN GUO OR FUN GOR

A popular peasant dish made of shredded radish and rice flour; both of these ingredients found in abundance in the countryside. It is steamed and then cut into square pieces and sometimes pan-fried.

This is an open kind of dim sum with varied fillings of pork and chicken, chicken and shrimp, etc. It is often topped with roe and can be bland, so try it with the accompanying chili oil.

They are also referred to as Chiu Chow Dumplings. The filling can have chopped peanuts, garlic, chives, minced meat or diced vegetables and shiitake mushrooms.

STUART SPIVACK

HAR GAO OR XIA JIAO

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CHUN JUAN

CHANG FEN

These crispy fried spring rolls are made from very thin rice paper wrappers. They are dipped, moistened slightly, and then stuffed with vermicelli, stir fried vegetables and meat like prawns, chicken, or pork.

What sets these apart from Chun Juan is that these rolls are made of rice noodles.

They can be quite runny as they are made of rice flour and tapioca flour then combined into a gooey mixture, poured into a flat pan with holes, steamed into thin sheets, stuffed with mildly spiced fillings, and then served with various sauces.

Interestingly, while tea is generally the preferred brew to be enjoyed with dim sum, few people know that champagne also pairs very well with it! Yes, you read that right. The acidity of champagne compliments the soft flavours of the dim sum. So, the next time

GS417~COMMONSWIKI

CULTURE

GUO TIE These crescent shaped dumplings are also called pot stickers, because they are pan fried in a cast iron pan and if not cooked properly in the right mixture of oil and water, then they can stick to the pot literally!

you have a champagne party at home, why not lay out an array of dim sum to go with it?! This will surely surprise your guests and be the talking point at your dinner table, in a good way. â–

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LEISURE

by PARUL PRATAP SHIRAZI

HEART, IN THE RIGHT PLACE Whether for a weekend staycation or a long holiday, Parul Pratap Shirazi found The Shangri-La at New Delhi to be a place where enviable location meets old-school hospitality, and results in an unforgettable Delhi experience.

E

dwin Lutyen had a job - a job to create central Delhi as a hub that emphasized the nation’s shrouded political status and retain the traditional heritage vibe. This was a time when India was still a colony of the British Empire and the winds of change were but a zephyr, soon to become a storm. Lutyen’s job entailed setting up, designing and building the central administrative zone of the capital. Being a member of the Arts & Crafts Movement, Lutyen was deeply inspired by natural elements and the English style of architecture but his sensibilities were such that he also absorbed from the region, which can be seen in the motifs of Lutyen’s Delhi. We got the chance to experience a part of a city we have lived in for decades in an

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entirely different light and all it took was a weekend at Shangri-La’s flagship property, which sits like a jewel in the heart of Lutyen’s Delhi.

Beauty all around Hong Kong based Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts is one of the world’s premier hotel ownership and management companies. True to belief, the name of this chain is inspired by James Hilton’s novel, the Lost Horizon and the mystical land of serenity created therein. After over four decades in hospitality, Shangri-La is the paradigm of spectacular service and they seem to have absorbed a lot from the traditions of the country they are in. The Shangri-La at New Delhi sees sari clad front office staff ever ready with their hands

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LEISURE folded and a soft demeanour, very reminiscent of old school hospitality and very welcome in a time where ‘Hi’ has replaced the humble ‘Namaste’. This property is as close to Connaught Place as it gets and practically a stone's throw from inimitable heritage sites. It is composed of a towering block that has the architectural styling of Edwin Lutyen, retained in bits and parts, landscaped green lawns, a regal driveway and a sense of old world charm that is very inclusive.

We chose to head to our room upon arrival and were happy to be led to a suite that had one very striking feature. The bay window in the bedroom had a view which was fit to be artwork. The lush foliage of central Delhi, India Gate in the distance, the minars and domes of heritage sites in the surroundings - it was all cumulatively quite beautiful.

Space and silence Our suite was pristine to say the least, with an adjoining living room and work space, the sense of spaciousness was more than welcome.

Vintage dark wood furniture and accents on the wall added to the charm. Here, luxury came in the form of space and silence; any floor above the 5th takes you away from the city and transports you to a space in the skies. Add a bathtub and luxury bath products and you can create a spa experience right in your room.

The sleeping area was as spacious with a slightly old fashioned look in terms of décor but with plenty of storage space so you don’t have to feel like a traveller even when you 96 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

LEISURE

are one. Since the view was sheer pleasure, staying in bed with a book seemed like the ideal thing to do. So, our first afternoon was spent tucked in after an hour in the bathtub and a chilled soda and a bag of chips. Room Service does tend to take time but you get what you order and it is served with a smile.

Dinner at Tamra By evening we were ready and energized, we headed to their new all day dining kitchen, Tamra. Inspired by copper, the metal, Tamra is a beautifully lit, multi cuisine, all day dining kitchen which brings you the best of the East and the West, from Japanese to Mughlai- a meal at Tamra has something for everyone, even those travellers seeking homemade rotis after a long day. There is a lady who comes in at dinner time and makes

hand rolled rotis to add to the traditional fervour of Tamra.

We dug into a platter of sushi, then kebabs and finished with an array of exquisite desserts. A meal like this warranted an early evening and we were happy to return to our cosy, comfortable bed just a few floors up!

Great tourist location Day 2 was when we harnessed the true joy of the location this property stood at, we head out to see this face of Delhi. Connaught Place and surrounding sites are actually walking distance and if the weather is kind, then nothing like it!

We started with the thrift shops at Janpath, vintage collectibles, street fashion and costume jewellery at unbelievable prices or you could hop across to Cottage Industries and buy products made by artisans from around the nation. Con-

naught Place also hosts several iconic eateries from a bygone era and if you’re in the mood to stay out for the day, there is plenty to choose from.

Make your way across to the State Emporia road and shop for collectibles from every state of the country and if the kids are up for it, stop by the Hanuman Temple for a spot of henna art on your hands. Further down stand two landmarks that are a testament to the secular nature of our nation, the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib and the Sacred Heart Cathedral.

It does take a day (or more) to enjoy this part of the city but by evening you can haul your weary feet back to the luxury of Shangri-La and stop by the Lobby Lounge for a much needed cup of coffee. Don’t miss the Uno2Go patisserie where

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LEISURE

the macarons are much sought after and the salmon croissant sandwich is just the ideal snack for a summer evening.

Tamra is a beautifully lit, multi cuisine, all day dining kitchen which brings you the best of the East and the West, from Japanese to Mughlai- a meal at Tamra has something for everyone, even those travellers seeking homemade rotis after a long day.

Business and pleasure We headed back to our room, changed out of our tourist gear and hit the spa. An hour of much ‘kneaded’ therapy (pun intended) brought life back into us and we were ready for an evening of cocktails and appetizers. The Island Bar at the Lobby is perfect for a post work drink. Their selection of Scotch and wines are admirable but then being a cocktail person, I would recommend just a few of those before you head over to Tamra for dinner and realize the menu has changed entirely, making day 2 seem like a whole new day in the same hotel! After a good night’s sleep, you wake to check-out day of your weekend staycation but don’t leave without a dip in the pool.

Nestled amidst lush green trees and a beautiful lawn, this is the epitome of peaceful luxury and do order yourself a cold coffee for the true joy of languishing by the pool.

By noon the staycation comes to an end but not after refreshing you for the months of city life that lie ahead.

We recommend a staycation every two months, it keeps life in perspective and boredom of everyday living at bay. However if you are an outstation traveller then it’s good to know that Shangri-La is well connected by road and metro and if you are a business traveller then we recommend it even more.

Opt for the hotel’s Horizon Club Rooms on the 19th floor and be privy to exclusive facilities like the use of the private lounge, beverages served all day, complimentary wi-fi, use of meeting rooms and evening cocktails and canapés. ■

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HEALTH NUT

/ DR. SUSHMA AYYALASOMAYAJULA

Belly Woes: Gastroenteritis Most foodies are bound to be familiar with tummy upsets as a natural consequence of their love for food. Some of us sit it out (no pun intended) and some of us immediately begin antibiotics while others visit physicians for advice. Dr. Sushma Ayyalasomayajula explains.

O

f all the medical conditions around, I thought the subject of tummy upsets would be the least appetising for a Food and Beverage magazine. But then, food and the gastrointestinal system do go hand in hand. Gastroenteritis is one of the commonest conditions that affects children and adults. In fact, all of us would have experiences the tummy upset or “runs� as they are called at least once in our lifetime. What is gastroenteritis? It is a condition where the lining of the stomach and intestines which are made of various cells becomes inflamed.

This inflammation is caused commonly by either viral, bacterial or parasitic infections. Some types of medication that are used on a daily basis can also cause symptoms similar to gastroenteritis but bear in mind that there is absence of infection of the gut lining in such a situation.

What causes gastroenteritis?

Viruses, bacteria and parasites are the common culprits for causing infections of this nature. Norovirus in adults and Rotavirus in children are the most common cause of virus induced gastroenteritis. For pa-

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tients affected by HIV virus, the loss of immunity can predispose to acquiring secondary viral infections.

Food poisoning is bacterial mode of spread of infection with Salmonella, E.Coli, Campylobacter, Shigella, and Vibrio Cholera being some of the causative organisms. As the name suggests, some of these infections spread via faeco-oral transmission and some affect our body by ingestion of undercooked food, raw meat or sea food, unpasteurised dairy products, ingestion of food that is consumed after the expiry date, drinking water that is contaminated, consuming street foods where the quality of the water is unregulated especially so, during the monsoon season, salads and fruits that may have been washed with contaminated water, use of ice cubes where the source of water is again questionable, so on and so forth.

Certain parasites like Entamoeba, Giardia are also common cause of diarrhoea and vomiting in India.

The commonly used medication that cause diarrhoea and vomiting as side effects of their consumption are antibiotics, antacids that contain magnesium, a few types of oral antidiabetic medication, certain antide-

pressants, anti-inflammatories, chemotherapy drugs etc.

Managing gastroenteritis?

Like cold, gastroenteritis also settles down with supportive treatment.

Particular attention should be paid to ensure hydration by drinking plenty of fluids including the available over the counter rehydration solutions to replace the salt loss that the the body undergoes.

Giving the stomach a rest for couple of days by staying on a liquid diet and then gradually building up to soups, sloppy and mashed food and final-

SYMPTOMS OF GASTROENTERITIS The general symptoms are nausea, vomiting, loss of appetite, several episodes of passing loose watery stools with abdominal cramps and bloating. This condition is more or less self-limiting i.e. most of the symptoms should settle down in 48 hours.

Passing blood or mucus or both along with loose stools is a ‘red flag’ symptom requiring further in depth valuation.

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ly formed diet over the next few days. Practise good hygiene ie handwashing and toilet cleaning after every episode. Avoid sharing flannels and towels with other members when affected by this condition.

Basic food hygiene measures like washing and cooking of food thoroughly, refrigerating food at right times, drinking boiled water and pasteurising the dairy products, reheating food to appropriate temperature can prevent gastroenteritis. Whilst consuming food outside and unsure of the source of water, bottled water is the best way to avoid infection.

It is generally not recommended to take any of the motility slowing agents like Imodium as the condition is self-limiting and you run the risk of going on to the other end of the spectrum by bringing on constipation.

When to seek help Although, gastroenteritis usually settles on its’ own there are few instances when the condition needs further input and management from the physicians. These are-

Viruses, bacteria and parasites are the most common culprits for causing infections of this nature.

• If the symptoms persist for more than 48 hours, stool samples are required for culture and sensitivity and antibiotics may need to be started.

• If there are signs of dehydration i.e. dry mucus membranes, loss of skin turgor, reduced urine output especially in babies (measured as dry nappies), toddlers and young children as they run the risk of dehydration much sooner compared to adults especially so, if they are unable to keep anything down because of

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the vomiting. Their physiological reserves are much smaller compared to an adult.

• If you are a Diabetic, on immunosuppressant medication or an elderly with kidney or cardiac problems there may be a need to omit some medication entirely or alter your medication regime.

Bloody diarrhoea The presence of blood along with loose stools with or without passing of mucus is a significantly worrying symptoms. If there is fever and lower abdominal pain these symptoms could be a feature of chronic long term inflammatory bowel conditions like Crohn’s disease and Ulcerative Colitis in younger population and diverticulitis in older people which need a thorough assessment in the form of blood tests, stool samples, colonoscopy and scans.

If bloody diarrhoea is associated with weight loss that carries on for more than three weeks then this is a significant red flag and you must seek medical opinion to rule out sinister causes like cancer.

Largely gastroenteritis is as common as it gets, an unwelcome sales representative knocking on the door, taking some amount of the valuable time and then disappearing without much of a consequence most of the times.

However, being aware of the red flags is important to seek attention for symptoms that need a lot more input than just the loo. ■ Have questions about your health?

Write to healthfaq@chefatlarge.in.

Dr. Sushma will answer your questions on these pages.

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MEMBER RECIPES

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Chef at Large is India's largest and most active food group with over 15,000 interactions per day, more than 1,60,000 members across 80 cities worldwide. Apart from numbers, Chef at Large also houses a bunch of talented cooks who churn out a staggering array of dishes, the recipes for most of which are generously shared with other members. This section brings you a selection of member recipes that are sure to tempt you to keep cooking and sharing.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by MANISH BHALLA

PESTO AND CHILLI BACON PULL APART ROLLS WITH COCONUT MILK AND PARMESAN INGREDIENTS For the bread 400gm Strong bread flour 200gm Coconut milk 6gm Instant yeast 6gm Fine sea salt 1 Medium egg, white and yolk roughly mixed Olive oil, for oiling the clingfilm and the pan 1 tbsp Butter, melted For the filling 3 - 4tbsp Basil pesto 3 - 4tbsp Chilli Bacon Jam 50gm Parmesan cheese, grated

METHOD 1. Take the flour in a big mixing bowl. Add the salt to one side, and the yeast to the other, taking care they don’t touch each other, and just mix each into the flour.

2. Make a well in the centre of the flour and pour the egg into it.

3. Knead the dough, adding the coconut milk, a little at a time, until a rough lump of dough results.

4. Turn out the dough onto a lightly oiled platform and knead until soft. You may need to use a little less or more of the milk, depending on the size of the egg and how loose you keep the dough.

5. Place the dough back in the cleaned mixing bowl, cover it with clingfilm or a damp tea-towel and allow it to rest in a warm place.

6. When the the dough has at least doubled in volume turn the dough back out onto the oiled platform and knock out all the air.

7. Carefully spread and stretch it until you have a thin, large rectangle of dough. Spread the pesto evenly across the left half of the surface. Similarly, spread the chilli bacon jam evenly in a thin layer on the other half. Then, evenly scatter the grated Parmesan cheese over the whole surface.

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9.

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have a long cylinder with the filling spiralling inside (like a Swiss roll).

Divide this roll in half, then half again, cutting it clean with a sharp knife. Each of the four pieces can then be cut into three equal pieces, so that you end up with 12 roughly equal-sized rolls.

Place the rolls of dough in a lightly oiled baking tray, with the spiral pattern facing up. Be sure to leave enough space between the rolls so that they have room to expand. Cover the tray loosely with an oiled clingfilm or damp tea towel and keep it in a warm place until the rolls have doubled in volume.

Bake in a pre-heated oven at 180C for 12 - 15 minutes.

They’re done when the tops of the rolls have turned an even light golden-brown. You should be able to hear a hollow sound if you lightly tap them. At this point, take the tray out of the oven and brush the tops of the rolls lightly with some melted butter to give them a nice sheen.

Allow the rolls to cool on a wire rack for a while before serving.

COOK'S TIPS: • The dough should not be too tight; keep it fairly loose and elastic and ensure you have worked it sufficiently for the gluten to form. The best way to check this is to do the ‘windowpane test’. Take a golf-ball sized lump in your hands and stretch it carefully. If you can get it thin enough to see the light through, you’re done kneading.

• While baking, when half the baking time has elapsed, you may need to turn the tray around, as most home ovens do not heat evenly and you dont want the rolls to be unevenly browned.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by RUTVIKA CHAREGAONKAR

CHEDDAR GOUGÈRES (SAVORY CHOUX PASTRY) INGREDIENTS 250 ml water 100 gm salted butter a pinch of salt 175 gm all purpose flour (maida) 6 eggs + 1 egg for eggwash 150 gm grated cheddar (100 gm + 50 gm) 1 teaspoon of chilli powder 1 tablespoon of chopped coriander for garnishing

METHOD 11. Bake until the gougères are puffed up and golden 1. Preheat oven to 220C. brown, about 10-15 minutes.

2. Combine water, butter and salt in a large pan and 12. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. bring to a boil over medium heat. Once butter has 13. Sprinkle with some chilli powder and grated cheese completely melted, remove the pan from heat. before serving. Garnish with chopped coriander.

3. Add all the flour at once to the butter and mix it in with a wooden spatula.

4. Then put it on heat again and continue to dry out the dough on medium heat. Take care to see that it does not stick and form a crust at the bottom of the pan.

Once the dough stops sticking to the pan and the spoon, it is done.

5. Transfer it to another bowl immediately. It should fall in one go.

6. Beat 5 eggs together and gradually incorporate them into the batter while mixing with a wooden spoon.

Mix well after each addition to make the dough stretchy and slightly sticky.

7. Stir in 100 gm of the grated cheese and transfer the dough to a piping bag, with a medium round tip.

8. Line a baking tray with parchment paper.

9. Pipe approximately 2- 2 1/2 cm balls on the tray, leaving about 2-3 cm in between two balls of dough.

10. Brush the balls with eggwash and be careful that it doesn’t run down the sides. Sprinkle with remaining cheese.

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NOTE: • Note: The original recipe is from a Le Cordon Bleu book “Classic Recipes”. It uses Gruyere cheese, but I have adapted it to use Cheddar. Also, changes have been made to use salted butter and some spices.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by SAEE KORANNE KHANDEKAR

WHOLEWHEAT (ATTA) LOAF Baking time: 30 minutes • Baking temperature: 220 degrees centigrade • Yield: One medium-sized loaf

INGREDIENTS 375 grams whole wheat Punjabi chakki atta (or 300 grams wholewheat flour + 75 grams plain flour) 15 grams fresh or instant yeast 10 grams teaspoons sugar 10 grams teaspoons butter or vegetable oil + for brushing 10 grams teaspoons salt 300 mililiters cups lukewarm water 15 grams/1 tablespoon sesame seeds (optional)

METHOD 1. Place the yeast and sugar in a measuring jug or sweating. If the sides and bottom look a little pale coffee mug. Pour over half the lukewarm water, give or underdone, return to the oven without the tin for it a quick stir, and leave aside to froth for about 5-10 another 5 minutes. minutes.

14. Remove from the oven and brush the tops 2. Place the flour (or combination of flours, if using) in a immediately with oil. Allow to cool completely before large mixing bowl. slicing.

3. Add the yeast ferment and mix with a steady hand until combined, adding more water if required to make a soft dough.

4. Transfer the dough to a work surface and knead for 4-5 minutes until it feels smoother.

5. Return to the bowl and secure with plastic wrap or place in a large container with a lid. Refrigerate overnight or for 5-6 hours if you live in a very hot climate. Else, proof for 1 hour at room temperature.

6. Bring the dough to room temperature about 3 hours before baking (if using refrigeration method). Grease and line a sandwich tin with parchment.

7. Flour the work surface. Punch down the dough lightly to degas it, and knead very briefly.

8. Roll the dough into a tight log about the length of your sandwich tin, tucking the ends under for a neat and taut finish. Slide the log into the greased tin.

9. Mist the top of the loaf with water and leave to rise in a warm spot for 30-40 minutes or until double in size and well-risen above the sandwich tin.

10. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 220 degrees centigrade.

11. Lightly mist the top of the bread with your hands or a mister, and sprinkle sesame seeds if using.

12. Place gently on the center rack of the oven and bake for about 30 minutes or until the top is a rich golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by NISHA PILLAI

KEEMA-STUFFED PAO (STUFFED MINCE BUNS) INGREDIENTS For the Buns 4 cups all purpose flour 2 tbsp yeast ( I used active dry yeast) 1 tbsp sugar 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp melted butter Warm water + 1 tsp sugar to bloom the yeast Warm water -as needed to knead 3 tbsp milk - to brush the buns For the Filling 1 lb ground meat ( beef or mutton) 1 tbsp minced ginger 1 tbsp minced garlic

1 tbsp chopped green chillies 1 sprig tender curry leaves, chopped 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves 1 tsp ground garam masala made from fennel seeds, green cardamom, star anise, cinnamon, and cloves.

1 large onion, thinly sliced 1 tsp coriander powder 1 tsp chilli powder 1/2 tsp turmeric powder 2 tbsp of the rendered fat from browning the meat or 2 tbsp of your favorite oil Salt as needed

METHOD into a cylindrical shape. Now using a knife, divide 1. In 1/2 cup warm water stir in 1 tsp of sugar, and then and cut into 12 pieces. Roll the 12 pieces into rounds. stir in 2 tbsp yeast. Leave it aside to bloom for about Leave in a pan, covered to rise for 45 minutes. It 10 minutes. At the end of 10 minutes, it should be should rise and double again. Even if it did not, at the frothy. end of 45 minutes, you can still move on to the next 2. Stir together the flour, butter, sugar and salt well until step. combined and make a well. Into this well, add the 5. Preheat the oven to 450°F. bloomed yeast mixture. Incorporate it into the flour 6. Grease your palms lightly. Take each round and make as much as possible. Now, use the warm water and a well. Divide the meat mixture into 12 parts and stuff knead the dough into a soft, lightly sticky dough. You one part inside the dough well. Gather the edges on can use a mechanical mixer or use your hands. Pour a the top, and lightly twist and press it on to the top little oil in your palms and pat it all over the kneaded and gently roll the stuffed roll to form a ball. dough and leave it covered with a tight fitting lid, in a 7. Keep the ball on a lightly greased baking pan. Now, warm place to rise, for an hour. repeat the steps until all the meat mixture and dough 3. In a pan, brown the ground meat with a little salt and is used up. pepper. Drain the meat, once browned, reserve for 8. Brush the stuffed rolls with a little milk all over. later. Use the rendered fat (or alternatively, remove the fat and use 2 tbsp of oil) to sauté the onions.

Place an oven safe pan with 1 cup hot water on the When they turn soft and translucent, add the minced bottom shelf to make the crust chewy. Now bake in garlic, ginger, green chillies and chopped curry the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes until the top leaves, and sauté well until tender and aromatic. of the buns are lightly reddish brown and hard when Now reintroduce the reserved ground meat and add tapped. all the dry spices and stir well. Cover and cook for 9. When done, cool off in a bread basket, on top of a about 15 minutes on low heat until all the spices are clean towel. incorporated into the meat. Switch off the heat, stir in 10. Serve them warm with tea for breakfast or as a filling snack. the chopped coriander leaves and let it cool.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by MANUELA ZANGARA

PAIN AU CHOCOLAT (CHOCOLATE BREAD) INGREDIENTS For the dough 750 gms all-purpose flour 14 gms yeast 110 gms + 2 tsp sugar 70 gms milk 18 gms salt 53 gms butter, at room temperature 23 gms milk powder 300 gms cup water

For the beurrage 490 gms butter, divided in two (at room temperature) For the egg wash 2 eggs 1 egg yolk 1 pinch of salt For the Filling Dark chocolate sticks

METHOD 1. Sift the flour in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a hook attachment. Add the salt, 110 gms – ½ cup sugar, milk powder, milk and the 53 gms – 3 ¾ tbsp of soft butter.

2. Dissolve the yeast in half of the water (make sure it is lukewarm) and the 2 tsp of sugar and keep it aside to activate. When frothy, add it to the rest of the ingredients in the bowl.

3. Knead the dough only until all the ingredients are just combined (do not overwork it as you do not want to develop the gluten in the flour).

4. When ready, make it into a ball and put it in a bowl, cover the bowl with cling wrap and let the dough rise for 1 to 1 ½ hours, or until the dough doubles in size.

5. Punch down the dough, pushing down on it with your fist to give it its initial size. Cover with cling wrap again and store it in the fridge for 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes.

6. Punch it down once more to its initial size.

7. At this point you can either continue with the recipe or store the dough in the refrigerator for the next day.

In either case, first chill the dough in the freezer for 30 minutes.

8. When you are ready to continue with the recipe, take the dough out of the fridge and roll it into a long rectangle. Cover it in cling wrap and put it back in the fridge while you prepare your butter for the beurrage.

9. To make things easier, take 2 pieces of baking paper and measure them against the rolled out dough. You want to make 2 paper rectangles, each that measures 2/3 of the rolled out dough. Make a 114 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

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“packet” out of it so you can roll your butter inside it, without it escaping from all sides. (The packet is made by folding each paper in half. Then for about 1 inch/2.5cm on the 3 open edges, fold them inward starting with the 2 sides.)

Now divide your butter in 2 equal pieces and put them into the 2 open paper packets. Close the paper packets and roll it from the outside until it fills the packets completely. Once the packets are evenly rolled, put them back in the fridge to firm up again.

Make sure that both your rolled butter and rolled dough are very cold before proceeding or you will end up with butter everywhere and your pains au chocolat will not come out.

When your butter has firmed up again remove the paper from only one of them, take your cold dough out of the fridge and position the rectangle of butter on the lower two thirds of the rectangle. Now give it a simple turn (which means folding the bottom third up – butter on butter – and then folding the top third of the dough down, over itself). When looking at the dough now, you should see 3 layers.

Roll out the dough into a long rectangle again and repeat the same simple 3 fold turn, but without adding any more butter.

Now cover the folded dough in cling wrap and put it in the freezer for 30 minutes, then in the fridge for 1 hour.

Now roll out the dough again into a long rectangle approximately the same size as before, and repeat the same simple 3 fold turns, the first one with the

remaining butter and the next one without.

15. Now you should have made 4 single turns in all, one with added butter, one without, a rest period, then one turn with the second packet of butter and another with no added butter.

16. The dough is now ready. Refrigerate overnight.

17. The next day, roll the dough into a 2.5 mm – 0.1 inch thick sheet (if the dough starts to become warm, put it back in the fridge to cool down). At this point, I divided it into 3 parts and started working on 1 of them while keeping the rest (covered) in the fridge.

18. Cut rectangles 20 cm – 8 inches long and 10 cm – 4 inches wide. Put a chocolate stick (10 cm – 4 inches long) at the bottom of each rectangle and roll them from the base. Place them, seal side down, on a baking sheet covered with baking paper, leaving 5 cm – 2 inches of space between them.

19. Let them rise for 1 ½ to 2 hours at room temperature.

Make sure to loosely cover them with cling wrap so the surface doesn’t dry out.

20. Repeat for the rest of the dough.

21. Once the pains au chocolat have risen, brush them

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24.

25.

with the egg wash and bake them for 20 minutes in an oven which has been preheated to 220°C / 430°F and lowered to 190°C / 375°F immediately after putting the pains au chocolat in.

The pains au chocolat may seem too dark to you but it's important to bake them for that long or they will not be as soft and airy as you want them.

Let them cool for at least 10 minutes before eating them.

NOTE: You can freeze the pains au chocolat right after shaping them (before they rise), by wrapping them individually in cling wrap and then putting them in a ziploc bag. When you want to eat them, take them out the night before and let them come back to room temperature and then rise and bake as per the instructions above.

You can also bake all of them the day you make them and then, after they cool down, freeze them. When you want to eat them, simply take them out of the freezer and put them in a pre-heated oven at 190°C – 375°F for 5 minutes.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by PRIYADARSHINI CHATTERJEE

POMFRET MASALA RAVA FRY INGREDIENTS 4 Whole Pomfret Salt to taste 5-6 tbsp Vinegar 1/2 tsp Turmeric powder 8 to 10 Cloves 5 to 6 Cardamom 1 tbsp Peppercorns 1.5 tsp Cumin seeds

1 tbsp Coriander seeds 3-4 Whole dry red chilies 5 to 6 Garlic cloves 1 inch Ginger 4 to 5 tbsp Roughly chopped coriander leaves 250g Sooji or Fine Semolina 3 tbsp Rice flour Oil to shallow fry

METHOD 1. Wash and clean the fish, make three gashes with a knife on the fish, on both sides.

2. Rub in the salt and turmeric and keep aside for a while.

3. In a processor or a mortar, grind the cloves, peppercorns, cardamom (only seeds), cumin, coriander, ginger, garlic and dry red chillies with the vinegar.

4. Apply this marinade to the fish rubbing it into the gashes. Add the chopped coriander leaves.

Keep aside for 20 minutes.

5. In a plate tip in the semolina and rice flour, mix well. Dredge the spiced fish, along with the marinade (smear the marinade on the fish) in the semolina-rice flour mix to get a nice coating.

6. Heat oil in a non stick pan. Shallow fry the fish until a deep golden.

7. Serve piping hot with lime wedges and an onion salad.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by DAVID D'SOUZA

GOAN GREEN MASALA FISH FRY INGREDIENTS For the Fish Fry 4 mahi mahi filets, or any other fish that you prefer 3 - 4 tablespoon Goan green masala 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup semolina (Rawa) oil for frying For the Green Masala 100 grams green chilies 2 cups fresh coriander (tightly packed) 2 teaspoon coriander seeds 2 inch ginger

12 garlic cloves 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon peppercorn 8 cloves 2 inch cinnamon 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 medium onion (chopped) 1 cup vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar Accompaniment Fresh green salad

METHOD 1. Grind all the ingredients for the green masala to a thick paste to use as required.

2. Clean, wash and dry the fish filets. Lightly score them on both sides as this will help the marinade absorb better.

3. Mix the salt with the green masala paste.

4. Apply the marinade to the fish filets, making sure to work it into the slits you've made in the fish. Leave aside to marinate for 30 minutes or so.

5. Prep your salad while waiting for the fish to get ready.

6. Heat a little oil in a pan (preferably non-stick), dredge the marinated filets in semolina and add the fish to the pan.

7. Fry on medium heat until the fish is cooked and you end up with a nice and crisp exterior.

Remove from heat and place on paper napkin to get rid of excess oil.

8. Plate and serve.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by NAINA PUTHRAN

COCONUT MASALA MUSSELS INGREDIENTS 1 kilogram Mussels 2 tablespoons Coconut Oil (or other cooking oil) ¼ teaspoon Mustard Seeds ½ teaspoon Cumin Seeds 1 sprig Curry Leaves 1 large Onion, chopped 2 teaspoons grated Ginger 2 teaspoons finely chopped or crushed Garlic 1 Green Chili, chopped 1/ cup grated fresh Coconut ¼ teaspoon Turmeric powder ½ teaspoon Red Chilli powder

A handful of Cilantro, chopped Salt to taste For the spice powder 3 Green Cardamom 4 Cloves 1 inch piece Cinnamon ½ teaspoon Fennel Seeds ¼ teaspoon Carom Seeds (Ajwain) ½ teaspoon Black Peppercorns

METHOD 1. Wash the mussels and remove their 'beard' and barnacles, if any. Discard any mussels that are open and will not close when squeezed.

2. Heat a large pan on high temperature and add about 2 tablespoons of water. Add the cleaned mussels, give it a stir and close the lid. Let the mussels steam for about 2-3 minutes.

3. Uncover and give it a stir. Most mussels would have opened up now. If there are any unopened ones, leave them in the pan for a minute more. If they still do not open, discard the unopened ones. Strain the mussels and reserve the water that comes out of them.

4. In another pan, dry roast the spices listed under Spice Powder, for a couple of minutes on medium heat.

5. Transfer to a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder and crush to a fine powder. Keep aside.

6. In the same pan, heat the coconut oil.

7. Add the mustard seeds. When they sputter, add the cumin seeds and curry leaves.

8. Give it a stir and add the chopped onions. Cook till the onions are translucent.

9. Add the chopped ginger, garlic and green chili and fry for a minute.

10. Next, add the prepared spice powder, turmeric and red chilli powder. Mix well and cook on low heat for a couple of minutes, 11. Add the grated coconut, reserving a teaspoon of it for garnish.

12. Mix and saute for a couple of minutes.

13. Add the steamed mussels and the reserved cooking liquid.

14. Add salt as per taste.

15. Mix it all well and cover with a lid. Cook for a couple of minutes on medium heat.

16. Turn off the heat and garnish with chopped cilantro and the reserved coconut.

17. Serve hot with steamed rice or dosa.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by RHEA MITRA-DALAL

MACHHI NI CURRY (PARSI FISH CURRY) INGREDIENTS 4 to 6 slices of fish 200 ml Coconut milk 1 tbsp Kokum extract 3 Green chillies 2 Drumsticks 1 sprig curry leaves 4 tbsp tamarind paste Oil Salt

Grind the following together ½ coconut, grated 1 tbsp coriander seed ½ tbsp poppy seed ½ tbsp. white sesame seed 6 – 8 Kashmiri chillies ½ tsp turmeric powder 1 large onion, chopped or grated 2 large tomatoes 2 tsp roasted gram (chana) ¼ cup cashew nuts 6 garlic cloves

METHOD 1. Wash fish, apply salt, set aside.

2. Clean drumsticks, cut into batons, cook in salted water.

3. Heat oil in a wok and add curry leaves and then add the ground paste. Stir well for five minutes and then add split green chillies. Fry masala till oil begins to separate.

4. Reduce heat and then add coconut milk and a cup of water. Simmer for a good 10 minutes.

Add kokum and slide in the fish. Simmer for a bit and finally add the boiled drumstick batons and the tamarind paste. Stir to mix.

5. Serve with plain hot rice and a kachumber of finely chopped onions, tomatoes, green chillies and fresh coriander with a generous squeeze of lime juice.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by CHANDRIMA SARKAR

ILISH PATURI INGREDIENTS 7 pieces Ilish/Hilsa fish 7-8 tbsp Mustard paste (see notes) 7-8 Green chilies (or per taste) (See Notes) ¾ tsp Turmeric powder Salt ½ tsp Nigella seeds/Kalojire/Kalonji 4-5 tbsp Mustard oil + more for greasing the banana leaves 2 Banana leaves

METHOD 1. In a bowl add mustard paste, mustard oil, turmeric powder, salt (as per taste), nigella seeds and green chili paste. Mix well. Remember this mixture should be thick not watery. Add this mix to the freshly washed pieces of Ilish. Mix gently, keep aside.

2. Cut the banana leaves into rectangles. Keeping in mind that you need the leaf pieces to be spacious enough to wrap and parcel one piece of fish. Clean the leaf pieces with a wet kitchen towel. Grease the upper part of the leaf pieces with mustard oil.

3. For making the fish parcel; place 1 piece of banana leaf horizontally, and place another piece of banana leaf vertically on top of it forming a ‘+’. Now place 1 piece of fish on centre of this. Fold the end of the banana leaves, wrap and make parcel. Tie with cotton thread.

Continue the same process for every piece of fish.

4. Grease an iron tawa (not nonstick) with mustard oil. Place the fish parcels/paturi on tawa.

5. Cook for 20 minutes on very low flame. Flip the parcels in between. Let the parcels turn dark brown in color. Remove from heat. Your delicious 124 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

‘Ilish Paturi’ is ready to devour.

6. Serve hot with steamed rice. Enjoy!

NOTES 1. You can mix yellow and black mustard seeds in equal proportion. If you want you can use only yellow mustard seeds or black mustard seeds for the paste also. Don’t forget to add the green chilies when you are making the paste. Or use ready-made mustard powder (Cookme or Sunrise) available in the market.

2. Make a paste of green chilies if you are using store brought mustard powder. Otherwise use them as I have mentioned above (add them while making the mustard paste).

3. The traditional way of serving ‘Paturi’ is with the whole leafy parcel itself, that way only the threads have been discarded before serving; the diner has to open the parcel by him/herself while having this with rice.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by FARRUKH SHADAB

KESAR KAJU KATLI INGREDIENTS 2 & 1/4 cups of cashew nuts (room temperature) 1 cup sugar 100-110 ml water 2 big pinch of saffron 100 ml milk Silver leaf for garnish

METHOD and start kneading to form a dough.

1. First, soak the saffron in milk and keep it for 4-5 9. Place the dough between two sheets of butter hours or overnight in a fridge. This will help to paper and roll out the dough into a 5-6 mm develop beautiful natural saffron colour. thick rectangle. You can roll out the dough on a 2. In a blender, grind cashews to a fine powder. greased broad thali or flat plate.

Cashews should be at room temperature and 10. Gently stick the silver leaf on top of the do not over grind it as the oils released from smoothened dough. the cashews will make it a paste while grinding.

You may find few coarse grains of cashews while 11. Cut the katlis into diamond shapes and enjoy them. grinding, do not worry.

3. In a heavy bottomed pan, add sugar and water, 12. This yum Kesar Kaju Katli will stay absolutely well in an air tight container under refrigeration 2-3 heat and bring it to boil. Stir for few minutes. weeks.

Once the sugar is dissolved, let it cook to get one string consistency sugar syrup.

4. Add saffron milk and cook for another 3-4 minutes on high heat stirring it intermittently.

Syrup consistency should be of 1-2 string.

5. Add cashew powder and mix well.

6. Stir and cook for another 4-5 minutes on medium low flame or until mixture starts getting thick paste consistency and just starts coming together form a lump. Do not over cook it.

7. Turn off the heat.Take the mixture and spread it on a plate or butter paper and allow it to cool.

8. When mixture has cooled to a slightly warm temperature, grease your hands with little ghee 126 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

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MEMBER RECIPES

by SHAHEEN KHAN

ZAAFRANI SHEER KHURMA INGREDIENTS 2 litres, Full Fat Milk 1 cup Fine Sewai/Vermicelli 1 cup and 2 tbsp Sugar 2 tbsp Ghee / clarified butter 2 strands Saffron 1 tsp Rose Water 1/2 tsp Cardamom powder

1/2

8 Dry dates, soaked cup Dry coconut (Khopra), grated a few Dry rose petals

Nuts & Dry Fruits 5 tbsp Cashew, chopped 4 tbsp Almonds, chopped 1/2 cup Raisins 4 tbsp Pistachios, chopped 2 tbsp Chironjee/ Charoli nuts

METHOD 1. Soak the dates in water over night. Next morning slice the dates open and take off the seed. Cut the dates into pieces. Keep aside.

2. In a thick bottomed vessel add milk and bring it to a boil. Simmer the gas flames and allow it to reduce till half. Add cardamom powder while the milk is reducing. Gradually you will see cream sticking to the edges of the pan. Scrape it and add into the milk. This will give more creaminess to the sheer khurma.

3. Meanwhile in a small bowl, soak saffron in 1 tbsp milk. You can soak it and refrigerate it over night for better color.

4. In a separate wok, heat ghee. Now fry the chironjee, cashews, almonds and raisins one by one and keep aside.

5. In the same wok add broken sewai and roast them till golden in color. Keep aside.

6. Once the milk is reduced to a desired level, add the fried nuts and grated khopra first. Let them cook for few minutes. Add the chopped dates and mix well. Keep stirring and always make sheer khurma in low heat.

7. Once the dry fruits and the nuts are cooked nicely, add the roasted sewai and stir. Allow the 128 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

sewai to get soft but do not over cook it. Once you see the sewai getting soft, add sugar and stir again.

Check the sweetness once the sugar dissolves completely. You can add more sugar if you want.

Now add the saffron soaked milk and stir again.

Allow it to cook for another few minutes. You will now see the color of the sheer khurma getting deep.

Once you achieve the desired color and thickness turn off the heat and add a few drops of rose water.

Serve hot or cold as per your choice. If you want to serve it chilled, then let the sheer khurma cool at room temperature and then refrigerate it for few hours before serving.

Garnish the sheer khurma with dried rose petals, chopped pistachios and saffron before serving.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by GARIMA SAROLIA NARERA

ATTA SOOJI KA HALWA INGREDIENTS ½ cup aata/whole wheat flour ½ cup sooji/semolina ¾ cup desi ghee/clarified butter 1 cup sugar 3 cups boiling hot water 1 tsp cardamom powder Slivered nuts and some rose petals to garnish

METHOD 1. In a kadhai or a heavy bottomed pan, roast the aata, sooji and ghee on a low to medium flame till it changes colour and gives the aroma of being well done.

2. Keep stirring for even roasting and to avoid burning. It takes about 20-25 minutes on a low flame.

3. Meanwhile bring water to a rolling boil. Carefully, add the boiling water to the roasted mixture.

4. Bring the flame to medium high and keep on cooking. Stir non-stop.

5. After about ten minutes the halwa will thicken and release ghee.

6. Add the sugar and cardamom powder and cook stirring for 5-7 minutes.

7. Serve hot garnished with slivered nuts and some rose petals.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by PRIYADARSHINI CHATTERJEE

CHHANAR MALPUA AAM SHOTTO DIYE (PANEER MALPUA WITH MANGO FRUIT LEATHER) INGREDIENTS 200gm Fresh cottage cheese 250ml Milk 50gm Semolina All purpose flour - 65 gms 1tsp Fennel seeds 100gm Aamshotto or Aam papad 30gm Raisins 70gm Cashew nuts A pinch of Salt Ghee for frying For sugar syrup 200gm Sugar 1/2 tsp Cardamom seeds 200ml Water

METHOD 1. In a food processor pulse the cottage cheese and milk together to make a creamy blend.

2. Add semolina, flour and pulse again ensuring there are no lumps.

3. Pour in a bowl. Add fennel seeds, roughly chopped cashew nuts, raisins, the aamshotto/aam papad chopped in small cubes. Mix and keep aside for 15 minutes.

4. In the meantime make the sugar syrup.

5. Place sugar and water in a pan and keep on the flame. Once sugar dissolves add the cardamom seeds, do not stir.

6. Once the syrup turns golden, pour in the remaining water which you should warm a little in advance. Let it simmer away for another 5 minutes, until sticky.

7. Heat ghee (or oil or a mix of both) in a deep pan. With a round ladle pour in one ladleful of the batter at a time spreading it lightly to form a disc. Deep fry the malpuas until golden in the centre and dark brown on the sides.

8. Take the malpuas out of the oil and put it in the syrup. Follow this method in batches and let each batch soak in the syrup for at least 10 minutes.

9. Remove malpua on a plate and pour the remaining syrup on top. Garnish with nuts and raisins and serve warm or cold.

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MEMBER RECIPES

by MADHURI AGGARWAL

HAYAGREEVA INGREDIENTS 1 cup Bengal gram/ Chana Dal 1 cup Jaggery 2 tbsp Poppy seeds Âź cup Grated dry coconut 3 nos Cardamom/ Elaichi

METHOD 1. Soak the Bengal gram for half an hour and pressure cook it till the Bengal gram till it is cooked yet firm. Till the pressure cooker lets out 3 whistles works well.

2. In a deep pan boil 2 cups of water along with jaggery, poppy seeds, grated dry coconut. Boil it till the jaggery is dissolved completely and it gets syrupy. Not one string consistency but syrupy.

3. Add the pressure cooked lentils into this syrup, cover it and cook it till the lentils soak up all the syrup and thickens.

4. Add cardamom powder and give it a good mix. Make sure you do not mash the lentils too much.

5. Garnish it with some grated dry coconut and toasted poppy seeds and serve hot.

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HEALTH NUT

/ SANDEEP SRINIVASA

The Truth About Saturated Fat, Cholesterol and Heart Disease We've been subjected to a host of theories that link fat, cholesterol and heart disease. New facts about health and nutrition are being unearthed quite frequently now and debunking many theories we've held close to our hearts.

Sandeep Srinivasa discusses the latest findings on this controversial subject.

T

his article is an attempt to address the tons of fake advertising and little known science out there, some of it being passed down for several generations. Take care – if you listen to what I write in these pages, you will most likely be laughed at by your family and friends! Let me begin by first pointing out the biggest informational change rolling out into the world: For the last couple of decades, our dietary guidelines have been guided by this food pyramid.

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Grains are the bottom (the largest component) – this is why you eat “healthy” cornflakes, dalia, fat-free slices of bread, healthy dosas with olive oil.

This pyramid (below, left) was published by the USDA in 1992 and is fundamentally flawed in its measurement and science. Thankfully, this was replaced by the “ChooseMyPlate.gov” depiction (below) by the Obama Govt.

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You see that they have eliminated the low consumption of fats. Why ? Should you now eliminate all fats?

Please don't do that, because that would be stupid.

The reason that fats are not mentioned is because it is not possible to represent that in a minimal diagram like this.

Summary The summary first - fats are not bad.

Never replace any kind of fats, not even saturated fats, with carbs or poly-unsaturated fats. That will lead to an increased risk of heart disease. If anything replace saturated fats with mono-unsaturated fat or protein.

This means you cannot replace your 2 slices of bread and butter with 4 slices of bread with no butter. Or 4 eggs with yolks with 4 egg whites and a bowl of cornflakes.1, 2 Dr. Feinman et. al. says the same thing in an alternate manner in his paper published by the Methuselah Foundation. [...] that carb is really rather bad for overweight, insulin-sensitive people, such that replacing it even with Saturated Fats (SFA) is relatively harmless — whereas for lean, insulin-sensitive people, SFA (and dietary cholesterol, its fellow-traveller in 138 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

omnivorous diets) is likely more relatively harmful, because carb is less able to derange the metabolism.

Until we get a couple of thousand healthy twenty-year-olds locked up in metabolic wards for sixty years or so for a really vigorous diet trial, I think saturated fat AND carbs (especially starchy carbs) stand out as things to reduce in the diet, in exchange for vegetables, fruit, lean protein, and PUFA (and probably MUFA) as things to maintain or increase. And most people should lose weight!

Anti-Summary The biggest criticism for the above conclusion comes from what is popularly known as the Trichopoulou study3, published in Nature magazine. The study found that High-Protein, Low-Carb Diet Leads To Higher Mortality Rates. There was a huge discussion on this on the LowCarber4 forums, where it was finally understood that the data used in the Trichopoulou study were extrapolated computer models that predicted only a slight increase in mortality rates.

Primarily, this study is also cited by various quasi-religious groups as justification for veganism.

Another study, By how much and how quickly does reduction in serum cholesterol concentration lower risk of

ischaemic heart disease5? shows purported data from cohort studies of half a million men which makes a case for reduction of cholesterol in the diet. However, the comments on the same paper (at the same page linked previously) criticize pre-existing conditions as the cause for these changes and not dietary alone.

A short recap – PUFA, MUFA, HDL, LDL and heart disease Most people know that some fatty acids are good and others are bad. Here’s the underlying science.

• LDL, Low Density Lipoprotein - bad!

• HDL, High Density Lipoprotein - good!

• PUFA, PolyUnsaturated Fatty Acids - good, but gets bad, since it may get oxidized.

• MUFA, MonoUnsaturated Fatty Acids - good; this is where olive oil shines.

PUFA vs MUFA vs Saturated Fats can be illustrated via this excerpt from Wikipedia.

may promote insulin resistance, whereas polyunsaturated fatty acids may be protective against insulin resistance.

Furthermore, the large scale KANWU study found that increasing monounsaturated fat and decreasing saturated fat intake could improve insulin sensitivity, but only when the overall fat intake of the diet was low. Studies have shown that substituting dietary monounsaturated fat for saturated fat is associated with increased daily physical activity and resting energy expenditure. More physical activity was associated with a higher-oleic acid diet than one of a palmitic acid diet. From the study, it is shown that more monounsaturated fats lead to less anger and irritability.

In children, consumption of monounsaturated oils is associated with healthier serum lipid profiles.

Further, here are the conclusions of a very interesting paper6 that compares the pathways of saturated fat, PUFA and MUFA towards LDL and oxidation profiles.

Allegedly, polyunsaturated fats protect against cardiovascular disease by providing more membrane fluidity than monounsaturated fats, but they are more vulnerable to lipid peroxidation ■■ Consumption of an Saturated Fat (SFA) -rich diet (rancidity). On the other hand, some monounsaturesulted in higher LDL cholesterol than did conrated fatty acids (in the same way as saturated fats) sumption of MUFA-, PUFA(n-6), or PUFA(n-3))

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■■ ■■

■■

■■

rich diets. Aha! But we havent talked about HDL yet, which will balance out the LDL. This is what every doctor will tell you and stop there !

HDL cholesterol was lower during both PUFA-rich diets than during the SFA and MUFA rich diets.

There you go! Higher HDL helps the heart.

LDL resistance to copper-induced oxidation, expressed as lag time, was highest during the MUFA-rich diet and lowest during the PUFA and SFA rich diets. Oxidation is really bad – one of the core causes of heart disease. So the higher the resistance, the better - covered in the next section.

LDL induction of monocyte adhesion to endothelial cells was lower during the MUFA-rich diet than the other periods. Again – monocyte adhesion is really bad - the lower the better - covered in the next section.

In conclusion, an MUFA-rich diet benefits plasma lipid levels compared with an SFA-rich diet.

So, what we see is that PUFA and saturated fats are almost on par with respect to oxidation and other issues, however saturated fats are better in HDLs !!

Really – think about it next time when you are using cottonseed oil instead of ghee (and we havent even talked about Omega-6 to Omega-3 ratios yet!). Undoubtedly, MUFA is the best.

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The Americans ate the most fat and had the greatest number of deaths from heart disease; the Japanese ate the least fat and had the fewest deaths from heart disease. The other countries fell neatly in between. The higher the fat intake, according to national diet surveys, the higher the rate of heart disease. And vice versa.

Creation of plaque in hearts = heart disease The basic theory is around Chronic endothelial injury hypothesis7 – LDLs accumulate in the blood stream. This is followed by the attachment of leukocytes, monocytes and T-lymphocytes to these fatty acids. Once LDL accumulates, it tends to become oxidized (here is where HDLs help, since they help inhibit oxidation). In the presence of oxidized LDL, monocytes are converted to macrophages, which eventually forms fibrous plaque. In addition, oxidized LDL inhibits the endothelial Nitros Oxide pathway which leads to hypertension.

There are two ways to combat this: 1. By lowering the blood levels of LDL 2. By discouraging LDL oxidation. (huh… where did cholesterol go?)

The first approach is where there is a load of dis-information. For example, everyone thinks that reducing dietary cholesterol will help – but remember that dietary cholesterol increases both LDL and HDL and thereby maintains that balance (in fact “stearic acid”, a saturated fat, actually has much more HDL than LDL). There is therefore plenty of debate on which of the two pathways is better for reducing heart disease. It has not helped that the “margarine recommendation” (discussed below) has caused a wave of backlash against reducing total cholesterol intake.

Replacement of saturated fat with PUFA Early studies around the whole saturated fat vs unsaturated fat

caused the American Heart Association (AHA) to recommend switching to plant based PUFA from saturated fats. Now, this is the origin of hydrogenated vegetable oils like margarine which was sanctioned by the AHA in 196110. However, in 2006 the AHA reversed its recommendations – while it does not specifically ask to increased saturated fatty acids in diet, it no longer recommends switching to PUFA – especially because of its susceptibility to oxidation as well as the ratio of Omega-6 to Omega-3 in common

We have replaced all our fats with sugar and carbohydrates. We have become so used to “fat-free rice” that we replace perfectly good fats (like those found in egg yolks) with high carb replacements like poha or idli.

oils like soya, cottonseed and corn oil. Note the corn and soya oil – this is a huge, huge lobby in the US and is precisely why these studies never get popularised.

Omega 3 and Omega 6 Omega-3 is good, but Omega-6 is bad11 – Where we should actually have a ratio of omega6:omega3 of

roughly 2-3:1, most people actually have ratios somewhere in the order of 30:1, due to mainly the consumption of the bad vegetable oils and the consumption of grain fed meats as well as grain fed cow butter and ghee. Eating a diet with little vegetable oils and opting for grass fed meat should bring your Omega6 consumption down drastically.

It has significant benefit in preventing colorectal cancer, prostate cancer12, etc.

You might be interested in knowing, one of the best source of omega-3 is fish oil, which, it is important to note, contains low levels of omega-6 too. Vegan sources are flax seed oil, mustard oil, etc.

If you are eating butter and ghee, try to go grass feed cow butter and ghee to maintain your ratio. Also good to know is that rice bran oil has a lower ratio13 of omega-6 to omega-3. The lowest is mustard oil.

What is wrong with us today – a short history There was a very interesting story in Men’s Health magazine, which gives a very good idea of how the demonization of fats came about.

Here's an excerpt: The first scientific indictment of saturated fat came in 1953.

That’s the year a physiologist named Ancel Keys, Ph.D., published a highly influential paper titled “Atherosclerosis, a Problem in Newer Public Health.”

Keys wrote that while the total death rate in the United States was declining, the number of deaths due to heart disease was

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steadily climbing. And to explain why, he presented a comparison of fat intake and heart disease mortality in six countries: the United States, Canada, Australia, England, Italy, and Japan.

The Americans ate the most fat and had the greatest number of deaths from heart disease; the Japanese ate the least fat and had the fewest deaths from heart disease. The other countries fell neatly in between. The higher the fat intake, according to national diet surveys, the higher the rate of heart disease. And vice versa. Keys called this correlation a “remarkable relationship” and began to publicly hypothesize that consumption of fat- causes heart disease. This became known as the diet-heart hypothesis.

In a 1957 paper, Yerushalmy pointed out that while data from the six countries Keys examined seemed to support the diet-heart hypothesis, statistics were actually available for 22 countries.

And when all 22 were analyzed, the apparent link between fat consumption and heart disease disappeared. For example, the death rate from heart disease in Finland was 24 times that of Mexico, even though fat-consumption rates in the two nations were similar.

Despite the apparent flaws in Keys’ argument, the diet-heart hypothesis was compelling, and it was soon heavily promoted by the American Heart Association (AHA) and the media.

We have replaced all our fats with sugar and carbohydrates. We have become so used to “fat-free rice” that we replace perfectly good fats (like those found in egg yolks) with high carb replacements like poha or idli. Just checkout the amount of supposedly healthy recipes out there – every one of them disavows fats for carbs, starches or sugars.

Doctors are increasingly prescribing statins for controlling cholesterol and is a huge huge business. There are official US govt statistics about a huge increase in statin use, which in itself has various issues associated with it.

How do I diagnose heart disease ?

If there is a low correlation14 between saturated fats 142 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

and blood cholesterol levels, how does one detect early onset of heart disease ? Every doctor that you go to recommends a “cholesterol test”. Unsurprisingly, it has become a big business where you can find discount coupons for heart rate and cholesterol test on popular discount voucher websites.

There was a recent article15 by Harj Taggar – resident desi and partner at Y-Combinator – (and I’m quoting liberally from him) about how he became concerned about heart disease and went about trying to understand how to diagnose it. Now remember most doctors will throw the standard cholesterol test at you – which is really, really poor at accurately diagnosing heart disease risk.

There are four blood tests that are relevant (pricing data taken from http://www.delvin.co.in/tests.php): • Apolipoprotein_B (ApoB) – approximate cost is Rs. 800 – This is a protein found on the surface of LDL (“bad cholesterol”) particles. A regular cholesterol test tells you how much cholesterol is contained within the LDL particles but doesn’t tell you either the number or size of these particles themselves.

This test does that. Exercising reduces Apo(B), though interestingly not LDL (“bad” cholesterol)16 • High Sensitivity C-Reactive Protein (hs-CRP) – approximately Rs. 850 – This is a protein found in

Exercising reduces Apo(B), though interestingly not LDL (“bad” cholesterol)

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There appeared to be evidence19 that all three taken together could provide a more accurate overview of heart disease risk than cholesterol alone. Reference number 20 below has more information on what your cholesterol tests mean.

Please do not under-estimate the effect of stress and hyper-tension. Another important factor is reducing your overall calorie intake to reduce weight – calculate your resting metabolism rate and figure out how much you need to eat. All of these would arguably contribute more to the incidence of heart disease than dietary saturated fats.

The truth about Olive Oil 100 grams of Olive Oil – arguably one of the healthiest oils out in the world today, has 14 grams of saturated fat. Are you going to stop eating it now ? the blood and its presence is a sign of inflammation in the body, which is a risk factor for heart disease.

While testing for hs-CRP alone isn’t more predictive of heart disease than a regular cholesterol test, it does provide valuable additional information. eating omega-3 fatty acids reduces inflammation17.

• Lipoprotein(a) (Lp(a)) – approximately Rs. 900 – This is a different form of LDL (Low Density Lipoprotein – also known as “bad” cholesterol) which attaches to a protein called Apo A. It’s apparently unclear what Lp(a) actually does but if your level is greater than 30mg/dL it’s deemed an increased risk factor for heat attack. It seems trickier to manage. It appears to be mostly hereditary.

• LDL/HDL ratio (this is my personal addition) – I would say this is also fairly important. Eating any kind of fat (especially saturated fat), increases both and one balances the other. he ratio of LDL to HDL is considered to be a marker of carotid plaque, or how much plaque you have built up in your arteries. The ideal levels are below 4.4; 4.4-7.1 is average risk for developing heart disease; 7.1 to 11 is a moderate risk of heart disease; and greater than 11 means you have a high risk of developing heart disease.

• Triglyceride/HDL ratio (again my personal addition) – there is strong correlation18 between this ratio and heart disease. Remember triglyceride is a marker of your carbohydrate levels. You ideally want this at the 2.1 level 144 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

A study conducted at UCSD concluded that LDL isolated from Greek subjects on a typical diet or from American subjects on an oleate-supplemented diet induces less monocyte chemotaxis and adhesion when exposed to oxidative stress.

The researchers analyzed LDL particles from 18 Greek, 18 American, and 11 Greek-Americans subjects (incidentally – everyone of them living in the United States ). They found: • No differences in the baseline lipid profiles among the Greeks, Americans, or Greek Native American • 20% higher oleic acid content in the Greeks compared with the other subjects – unsurprising considering the amount of olive oil they ingested.

• In-vitro LDL oxidation (this is important as this may impact atherosclerosis and other heart disease) was lower in the Greek subjects. Incidentally, I’m not surprised at this result, because olive oil has been shown to inhibit in-vitro LDL oxidation.

• -42% reduced propensity for the attachment of of monocytes to mildly oxidized LDL was decreased (this is important because it’s part of the plaque build-up process). Qs pointed out in the previous section – this is inversely related to the oleic acid content of the LDL and is promoted by total LDL content.

Coconut Oil, the best oil out there?

In case you are still worried, remember you can buy extra-virgin coconut oil. It tastes amazing and parathas taste lovely when cooked in it. Not to mention much cheaper than olive oil and better suited to the Indian palate.

Secondly, and more importantly, there are tons of studies now comparing extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) vs extra virgin coconut oil (EVCO) for health benefits. For example this and this.

However, it is still an under-rated oil in the rest of the world due to, well, its unsexiness. Hopefully that will change. ■ References

1. Jakobsen MU, O’Reilly EJ, Heitmann BL, Pereira MA, Balter K, Fraser GE, Goldbourt U, Hallmans G, Knekt P, Liu S, et al. Major types of dietary fat and risk of coronary heart disease: a pooled analysis of 11 cohort studies. The

American journal of clinical nutrition 2009;89(5):1425-32. doi: 10.3945/ ajcn.2008.27124.

2. Hooper L, Summerbell CD, Thompson R, Sills D, Roberts FG, Moore H, Smith GD (July 2011). “Reduced or modified dietary fat for preventing cardiovascular disease”. The Cochrane Library (7): CD002137. doi:10.1002/14651858.

CD002137.pub2. PMID 21735388.

3. Trichopoulou study 4. LowCarber Forums 5. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8043072 6. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8911273 7. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_endothelial_injury_hypothesis 8. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_endothelial_injury_hypothesis#cite_ note-17 9. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12442909 10. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17607361 11. http://theconsciouslife.com/omega-3-6-9-ratio-cooking-oils.htm 12. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saturated_fat_and_cardiovascular_disease_controversy#cite_note-Hooper2011-11 13. http://blog.harjtaggar.com/my-heart 14. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17645591 15. http://umm.edu/health/medical/altmed/supplement/omega3-fatty-acids 16. http://circ.ahajournals.org/content/96/8/2520.long 17. http://www.lipidjournal.com/article/S1933-2874(11)00606-4/abstract 18. http://www.atherotech.com/images/vapliterature/pdfs/CholesterolTest.pdf

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LEISURE

by SID KHULLAR

A LEGACY OF ELEGANCE

T

he LaLiT Great Eastern began its journey around 1840 as the Auckland Hotel, started by David Wilson and named after the first Earl of Auckland, George Eden, who was the first Governor General of India. Starting with 100 rooms, a bakery and a departmental store, the hotel expanded a couple of decades later and, significant to its current name, the name of its managing company changed to Great Eastern Hotel Wine and General Purveying Co. As impossible as it seems to run a hotel without electricity, that’s precisely how this property was run for over 40 years, until 1883 when it was electrified; possibly the first such hotel in all of India.

It was a time when legends were built and the Auckland Hotel became known variously as the “Jewel of the East” and “Savoy of the East”. It was even described in Kipling’s short story, City of Dreadful Night. Going by the romance of the times, it was even said that, “a man could walk in at one end, buy a complete outfit, a wedding present, or seeds for the garden, have an excellent meal, a burra peg (double) and if the barmaid was agreeable, walk out at the other end engaged to be married”.

Alas, the Naxalite era saw the Auckland Hotel begin a period of decline that continued into the 1970s, when the state government took over its management. As with all things state run in this country, it wasn’t long before the property was completely run down and ultimately sold to LaLiT Hotels, Palaces and Resorts in 2005, who restored it as a heritage structure,

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reusing many of the original fittings and materials.

Especially visible are components from the massive bakery that at one time was what the Auckland Hotel was best known for.

Restoration mostly completed, the Auckland Hotel threw open its doors to a waiting public in November 2013 in its new avatar as the LaLiT Great Eastern, for which the mandarins in marketing even approved a special logo, derived from the original, which is probably indicative of the special standing of this property among all the others all across the country.

I stayed at the LaLiT Great Eastern in July 2015 and thought the world of its facilities, food and management. The food was so good that the chef had me slobbering over a vegetarian Haleem of all things!

The decor is a mixture of all things modern as well as a throwback to all things dated. Elements of the past have been carefully maintained and in fact positioned for maximum effect, so every so often you'll see an artifact from days long gone and if you've been imbued with the slighest bit of imagination, picture yourself in the same place as it was a hundred years ago. A glimpse of all this I share with you through this collection of photos. It should hopefully give you an idea of how this grand old property has evolved over the last 175 years. ■

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The first point of impact of most properties is the lobby, on which, understandly, a great deal of time and effort is spent. Here's a view of the lobby of the Lalit Great Eastern, as seen by a visitor walking in. To the right is a row of counters, each serving a different purpose, and each manned by a polite, friendly and well turned out staff member. On the left are various seating areas. Towards the end on the right are guest elevators leading to other parts of the property, including the residential areas and others such as the spa among others. The left leads to the tea lounge and their all-day dining restaurant, AlFresco.

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Quite a few of the older properties have an area dedicated to the consumption of tea, coffee and similar beverages. Perhaps a leftover of a British past, I think these areas have their own use. Uncluttered by multiple service counters, the drone of multiple mealtime chatter or the intrusive clinks of cutlery against china, the Tea Lounge is a place for uninterrupted conversations amidst a fine selection of hot and cold drinks, not the least of which comprise their excellent selection of teas from Newby, a purveyor of high quality, exotic teas from all over.

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Every 5-star property has an all day dining venue that doubles as a coffee shop. This is also usually where the package buffet breakfasts and other meals are served to in-house guests. These outlets, generally speaking, don’t appear to be afforded a great deal of priority and are largely functional than aesthetic or centres of culinary excellence.

AlFresco, like the rest of the Lalit Great Eastern, brims with character. Not only are the basics (service, seating etc.) well sorted but AlFresco is also home to one of Executive Chef Madhumita Mohanta’s pet projects, where she dishes out the three pillars of modern Kolkata’s culinary scene to guests - Bengali, Anglo-Indian and Tangra Chinese. In fact, the food here is good enough for AlFresco to be called a specialty restaurant than an all-day dining outlet or a coffee shop, which terms I do not believe do it justice.

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No one really knows what these were meant for and doubly so for the cages hanging overhead. Depending on the age of the guesser, I heard purposes ranging from a container for potted plants to a place for belly dancers to gyrate for wealthy patrons. Whatever be the actual purpose, there's no denying how breathtakingly beautiful the entire scene is without taking away from the pristine beauty of individual components such as the highly polished floors, the gleaming inlay work on the ceiling, the glowing, burnished wood and let's not forget the lovely spiralling wrought iron staircase in the corner that lends the whole scene such a quaint flavor.

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The Lalit Great Eastern is dotted with spots like this, where objets d'art have been combined with all manner of paintings and other artistic works to create little niches where one can easily stand for a few minutes to admire the marriage of diverse works, the whole coming together in a stupefying blend of colors and aesthetics, such as the framed Kilim in this picture.

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The food at the Lalit Great Eastern is one of the best I've eaten in a starred property.

Usually, a few key sensations are lost in translation at starred properties.

Chef Mohanta ensures nothing similar happens to her food on her watch. Every dish smacks of individual attention and a deep understanding of what appeals to diners.

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STEP BY STEP

by CHEF NARENDER SINGH, COOKGOURMET

ANGEL HAIR PASTA SHRIMPS SCAMPI INGREDIENTS 200 gms Angel hair pasta 1 tbsp Olive oil ¼ cup Butter 2 Garlic cloves minced 150 gms Medium Shrimps 1 tsp Chicken broth powder 1 tbsp White wine 1/8 tsp Black pepper 1/8 tsp Salt ¼ cup Parmesan cheese

2 tbsp Parmesan cheese for garnish 1 tsp Chili flakes 1 tsp Oregano 2 tbsp Basil chopped 4 Garlic Bread Slices You will also need Water Nonstick Pan Saucepan

METHOD 1. For Chicken Broth Mixture: In a saucepan, to 1/4 cup (60 ml) of boiling water add chicken broth powder and mix well. Remove from heat, add white wine and keep aside.

2. Boil Angel Hair Pasta: Bring 2 liters of water in a saucepan to a boil along with olive oil. Stir in the pasta and cook for 4-5 minutes, until done. Drain and keep aside.

3. Prepare Shrimps: While pasta is boiling, in a non-stick pan melt butter over medium heat.

Stir in garlic and shrimps and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Shrimps are done when head and tail come together. Don’t overcook as shrimps may become hard.

4. Add Chicken broth to Shrimps: Add chicken broth mixture, salt and pepper along with Parmesan cheese. Bring to a boil and cook for 1 minute stirring constantly.

5. Add Pasta to Shrimps and Serve: Add drained Angel Hair pasta, chopped basil, oregano and chili flakes to shrimps and mix well for 1 minute.

Remove from heat and sprinkle Parmesan cheese.

6. Serve steaming hot with garlic bread.

ingredients

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The finished dish

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STEP BY STEP

by CHEF NARENDER SINGH, COOKGOURMET

ROSE SMOKED PULLED CHICKEN WITH RUMALI ROTI AND AVOCADO MINT CHUTNEY INGREDIENTS 400gms chicken breast 2 lemons ¼ cup rose petals Square aluminum foil 1 medium sized wood coal (Ensure you have tongs) 4 rumali rotis ½ tbs chaat masala ½ cup onion rings ½ cup chopped lettuce 1 tbsp ghee 2 tbsp olive oil (step 3)

½ tsp pepper For the avocado and mint chutney ¼ cup avocado ¼ cup mint leaves ¼ cup sour cream juice of one lemon ½ tsp sugar 1 green chili ¼ cup water ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper

For the spice mix 2 tsp curry powder 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp brown sugar ½ tsp salt

You will need Non-stick pan Glass bowl

METHOD 1. Marinate the chicken: Marinate the chicken in the spice mix and juice of one lemon for 15 minutes so that the juice is absorbed by the chicken.

2. Burn the coal: Place the coal on a gas burner on high heat for 15 minutes till the surface starts to turn greyish white.

3. Cook the chicken: While the coal burns, on a different gas burner place a non-stick pan and heat 2 tbsp oil (30 ml) for 1 minute on high heat.

Place the marinated chicken inside the pan and cook for 2 minutes on each side (4 minutes in total) until the skin starts to turn golden brown.

Now cover with a lid and cook for 4 more minutes on low heat.

4. Pull the cooked chicken apart: Using a fork shred the chicken so it looks like pulled chicken.

By this time your coal would start to turn greyish white.

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burning coal (use tongs) over the rose petals and pour ghee, cover with a glass bowl immediately and smoke for precisely 30 seconds. Ensure the bowl is covered for only 30 seconds as more time can make chicken taste bitter.

6. Season and prepare the roll: Take the chicken out in a separate bowl and sprinkle the juice of one lemon and chaat masala. On the rumali roti, spread the chutney, lettuce, onions and chicken mince. Roll and enjoy!

CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR BOX!

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The finished dish

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TRAVEL

by Jaswinder Singh

The Big Terrain Rider Nissan Terrano

N

issan Terrano is a good package that delivers on many of the promises in the brochure, but falls marginally short of being an epic choice for car lovers.

There’s something about Chandigarh that keeps drawing us back for more. I’m quite certain it’s not the food alone, nor the people, or the roads, or the relative calmness that Delhi lacks so severely.

Maybe it is a combination of all of the above and then some. But we sure know that at Chef at Large HQ, we love to go back at the drop of a hat. This time around, we got a chance to explore Chandigarh and Patiala in a Nissan Terrano and I’d be lying if I say we didn’t love every moment of it.

The road to Chandigarh Many of us living in Delhi have had the chance to travel up to Chandigarh on our way to the hills. The road that used to be infamous for a rather dismal ride, though lined with good food on both sides all the way, went through a transformation few years ago. Et voila! Wide and well laid out tarmac awaits travelers on their way to the City Beautiful.

The road allows opening up of the throttle at most points allowing one to test vehicles for agility and ride comfort. Speed limits on most stretches of the high-

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way are very realistic, so there's plenty of fun to be had on the drive for those who like to feel their ride - a feat that the turbo-charged engine of the Terrano accomplished with ease. The scenery may impede speeds a little, but I doubt anyone would complain about it. Although, staying sharp and keeping an eye out for inter-state buses is advised.

Chandigarh city police enforces traffic rules very strictly, therefore it is advisable to observe speed limit and other traffic rules at all times to enjoy the drive.

The Terrano doesn’t disappoint on this front with exceptional handling in city traffic. Staying within the speed limit proves easier than expected with no loss of power whatsoever as the Terrano navigates through lanes.

Breakfast at Murthal No trip to Chandigarh is complete without the first stopover at Murthal for stuffed tandoori paranthas and white butter. The ride to Murthal from Karnal Bypass is short and comfortable, making it an ideal breakfast getaway destination on weekends, provided you prefer paranthas over French toast for breakfast.

Every one recommends Amrik Sukhdev as the perfect spot for paranthas in Murthal. However, we tried

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out the offerings at No.1 Ahuja Dhaba. Must say, I’m not an expert in paranthas, but the ones they serve at Ahuja’s might prove to be a little too thick for some.

That said, they taste just fine and warrant a visit every now and then to check the hunger pangs that only paranthas can satiate.

This stretch of road has practically nothing out of place or interesting in terms of ride quality other than perhaps the food that one would like to write home about. But then, it does serve as the beginning of the journey towards Chandigarh and beyond for most travelers taking this road.

The nearly straight and long stretch between Murthal and our next stop in Ambala served well as a test track for a thorough check. Once the driver gets to open up to the car and gets into the flow of the drive, the real deal begins to emerge.

The first thing that one notices is the plastics used inside the cabin are below par and fail to justify the price tag. The seats lack lumbar and thigh support.

Leather upholstery adds look and feel to the cabin but not oodles of comfort that one would expect from a car in that category. Couple that with having to extend your arm to shift gears if you are taller than six feet pushes things in a little too far. Three of us with different heights and body structures could not find the proper seat adjustment to deal with that issue. An armrest for the driver and a dead pedal would have been nice, so would an in-car entertainment system with a better output and steering mounted controls.

The car that we were testing had already been driven for 36,000 odd kilometers, but the ignition was showing signs of fatigue and appeared fidgety. As for the ride quality, the suspension is quite stiff, making the bumps on the road noticeable enough at around 80kmph, which is a nominal speed on open highways.

However, the overall balanced weight of the vehicle ensures good handling and does not allow the tail to waver at all through the bumps.

Lunch with Puran Singh of Ambala Puran Singh is an institution in the city of Ambala.

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to be like no other in all of Northern India. Such is the legend that there are many establishments on the same stretch that have adopted the same name with absolute disregard to copyrights. We weren’t in a complaining mood though and dove right in.

The mutton curry at Puran Singh’s Dhaba looks and tastes like any other mutton curry you’ve ever had.

However, pay a little attention and the layers of distinction begin to unravel. Cooking mutton is no easy task. The gamey, almost fat-less meat of a goat is not very suitable for a quick fire recipe and no amount of flavors can rescue such an attempt. Sadly, that is what one encounters most of the time. I remember, on a trip to Mumbai few years ago, I was served an oven-roasted mutton dish with some very interesting flavors – prunes, black pepper, lavender and a few more. But, the meat was undercooked and it just refused to go down the hatch. The matter was brought to the chef ’s notice who came back with a rude half explanation on his creation and how I was not qualified enough to know any better. Perhaps. Despite that, I do know I like my mutton to be cooked with the bone on a low flame for a longer duration, such that the meat should stay on it while serving and fall off it on cue.

And that is where Puran Singh’s mutton curry scores on, big time. Slow cooked to tender perfection, the meat stays on the bone when served and falls off the bone with a slight flick of the fork and barely any effort from the wrist. Those who would like to equate it with a Nihari may do so, but it still remains a very different dish altogether.

Interestingly, the lunch served as a weather checkpoint for the day. Skies decided to open up for a while and pour down relentlessly on the small town, inundating the town square for a while in knee-deep waters. Navigating through the puddle in a car with 205mm ground clearance seemed like an uphill task, one that the Terrano accomplishes with ease. Perhaps the only thing that felt a little odd was the positioning of windshield wiper and indicator controls that seems to have been done according to left hand driven cars and takes a little getting used to.

The throttle response is better than acceptable. The turbo-charged engine can be very throaty on acceler-

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Photo by Sid Khullar

ation and quiet when asked to, delivering an excellent power response whenever required. The six-speed manual transmission is a handy feature to have on a highway. However, gears 5 and 6 are both meant for overdrive and deliver no power or any additional fuel efficiency that makes the point of having the 6th gear on the menu rather moot. The average fuel consumption figure we could gather from the car’s instrument display was at 14.1kmpl as against the 19kmpl according to ARAI. The reverse gear has a nifty little feature that sets it apart from the crowd. It requires the driver to pull up a latch on the shift stick to engage the reverse gear along with an audible beep alarm to indicate gear engagement. This is a feature that should be made available in all other cars as it may remove any possibilities of accidental engagement of reverse gear completely obsolete.

Coffee break at Nik’s As one heads towards Punjab, the local obsession with anything that has some connection with foreign shores gets rather endearing. The long, leisurely drive was beginning to take its toll on all of us and all of us were in need for a cup of coffee, Nik’s in Dera Bassi was a stopover as good as any. Nik’s Bakers profess their Aussie connection through their chief baker and that works like a charm for the local consumers. That said, the fare at Nik’s is not bad at all. Their coffee 174 | CALDRON MAGAZINE, AUGUST + SEPTEMBER 2015

roast may need a slight tweaking, but their sandwiches and pastries are most definitely above average.

It marked the last stop on the way as we approached Chandigarh, our home for the next couple of days.

Once we checked in and went back to the car to pick up our bags, only then did we realize the space inside the car. The boot is spacious, so is the cabin that accommodates passengers over six feet tall with ease.

Legroom is plenty for the front and rear seats, but that does not improve the seat ergonomics as described earlier. Multiple cubbyholes placed around the cabin are very comfortable to reach.

Within the city limits, the car navigates through slower traffic with as much ease as it demonstrates on the highway at a higher velocity, with the engine response never running out of the driver’s control. It handles curves with relative panache and straight-line speeds are very impressive.

The Terrano is an overall impressive package in terms of power delivery and handling, but fails to deliver on ride comfort and average fuel consumption. The car has a good road presence without being menacing and lives up to some of the promises in the brochure but could use a few interior and exterior upgrades to stay in competition. ■

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finally, the first internally organised chef at large meet up happened on the 4th of september. featuring brilliant vegetarian and non-vegetarian by the piano man's jazz club in safdurjung enclave, new delhi, the event also featured a cake icing piping and dessert plating demo, a drink mixing demo, a talk on preventive healthcare as well as interesting activities and much more. attended enthusiastically by chef at large members, the fun-filled afternoon was hosted by the dynamic duo of madhu saini and nisha ambar. here are some photos so you definitely make it next time!

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PHOTOS BY ANINDITA CHAKRAVARTY BHATTACHARYA

<<< EVENTS >>>

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Awww! Did it have to end?!

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