Autumn/Winter 2014
Wardrobe Essentials Styling Directives Taken from New York Runway Analysis
Three Macro Catwalk Trends • • • •
cocooning outerwear and lofty knits colors: greys, camel, dusty pink, olive green historical allusions (60s glam) fur
Casual Luxury
Unstructured Volume for Easy Layering
•
Androgyny
oversized menswear and well-tailored suits • wide-cropped and slouchy trousers • colors: neutrals and navy • prints & patterns: plaid and tweed
Menswear-Inspired & Utilitarian Classics
• • • •
varsity jackets, bombers, metallic parkas colors: monotones paired with bright pops of color (red, yellow, etc.) experimentation (in proportions, construction, prints, etc.) collegiate letters, logos, graphics
Outdoor Urban
Athletic Gear with Youthful Twists
Designer / Young Designer Contemporary / Young Contemporary Teen / Tween Accessories / Footwear
Market Segments Three Must-Have Pieces
DESIGNER AN OVERSIZED COAT A pivotal product category this season, voluminous outerwear was a standout in numerous collections. Cocooning the body while keeping it warm, it was sent down runways in a variety of colors. Try a monochrome piece, such as The Row’s version in shale grey, or opt for a more eye-catching, patterned number, such as the one from Proenza Schouler.
Altuzarra
Proenza Schouler
The Row
Creatures of Comfort
DESIGNER FURRY OUTERWEAR Fur was an especially prominent fabric for outerwear – whether it was just accenting a piece (as in Jason Wu’s) or the main focus (as in Ralph Lauren’s), this tactile fabric breathes femininity and elegance into any wardrobe. For more daring consumers, try it in one of this season’s hit colors, red, like the one from J. Mendel.
Carolina Herrara
Jason Wu
Ralph Lauren
J. Mendel
DESIGNER A TOUCH OF FLORAL Blurred, smudged flowers was a key floral story this season, as seen in Peter Som’s dress. Flowers also added a bright pop of color and gave a feminine touch to otherwise masculine styling. This versatile print is perfect for both tops – like Michael Kors’ delicate blouse – and bottoms – such as Oscar de la Renta’s flared skirt.
Michael Kors
Peter Som
Thakoon
Oscar de la Renta
YOUNG DESIGNER A VOLUMINOUS SWEATER Volume was the focus of this season’s other important product category, knitwear. Try Calvin Klein’s version, in fuzzy mohair, or get swallowed up in The Row’s minimalist, chunky take. Go traditional and pair it with your favorite pair of jeans, or experiment your styling and throw your sweater over a long skirt.
The Row
Prabal Gurung
Calvin Klein
Marc Jacobs
YOUNG DESIGNER RETHOUGHT DENIM Denim was a hit this season especially for the youth market, but designers were keen to rethink the material. The innovative results gave this traditional fabric a much-needed update. Steven Allen’s quilted take, Ostwald Helgason’s iridescent version, and Pamela Roland’s art-deco embellishments breathe forward-thinking into any outfit.
Steven Allen
Pamela Roland
Ostwald Helgason
Nicholas K
YOUNG DESIGNER A GRAPHIC DRESS Dresses are a wardrobe staple for any young consumer, but this season it was all about the pieces’ graphic designs. Inspiration came from a variety of sources: global cultures, wintry florals, collegiate numbers, 3D-effects… whether printed on a shift or sweater dress, eye-catching graphics were experimented and played with to channel the young consumer’s own penchant for fun.
Suno
Jeremy Scott
Ostwald Helgason
Tess Giberson
CONTEMPORARY A MASCULINE, SLOUCHY TROUSER
The wide, fluid legs of mannish trousers from designers such as Karen Walker and Tibi gave collections a utilitarian twist. Try a pair in one of this season’s key fabric directives, traditional tweed (as seen in Creatures of Comfort’s design), or go for a cropped version like A.L.C’s.
Tibi
Karen Walker
Creatures of Comfort
A.L.C.
CONTEMPORARY RUFFLES Ruffles add a touch of romance to any piece - the detail was even seen in knitwear, such as in this Phillip Lim sweater. The asymmetry of the ruffle accent seen in Victoria Beckham’s top makes a simple blouse a standout number. And in Alexander Herchcovitch’s Victorian-inspired collection, the ruffle details gave his camisoles a dreamy feel.
Milly
3.1 Phillip Lim
Victoria Beckham
Alexander Herchcovitch
CONTEMPORARY AN UNEVEN HEMLINE DRESS
An uneven hemline gives any dress interesting asymmetry. Opening Ceremony’s architectural piece is youthful and injects newness into your wardrobe. ICB’s touch of graphic is an example of tasteful cut-and-paste, while DKNY’s sporty, urban styling channels this season’s athletic theme.
Opening Ceremony
ICB
BCBY Max Mara
DKNY
YOUNG CONTEMPORARY A TEXTURED SWEATER Unconventional experimentations was not just seen in graphics and prints, but also in fabric and texture considerations. The tactile results from the likes of Nonoo and Nicole Miller make the traditional sweater a standout number. Try Alexander Wang’s bright, futuristic version, or Opening Ceremony’s sequined design.
Nonoo
Nicole Miller
Opening Ceremony
Alexander Wang
YOUNG CONTEMPORARY A UTILITARIAN DRESS Pay homage to the Industrial Revolution with a utilitarian dress. Designers added some ruggedness to their collections by taking inspiration from work-wear and uniforms. Wearers of creations from the likes of Rag & Bone and Tommy Hilfiger will enjoy practicality and unrestricted movement. And, as pastels were a pivotal color palette this fall, try Lacoste’s take in mint green.
Tommy Hilfiger
Lacoste
Rag & Bone
Karen Walker
YOUNG CONTEMPORARY SPORTY OUTERWEAR For the youth market, outerwear essentials included puffy coats, bomber-hybrids, parkas, and varsity-inspired jackets. The sporty feel was captured in fabrics such as shearling and leather, quilted nylon, and wool. From ski resorts to baseball fields, designers such as DKNY and Tommy Hilfiger dove deep into athletics for creative insight.
Alexander Wang
T by Alexander Wang
DKNY
Tommy Hilfiger
TEEN A STATEMENT DRESS
Stand out of the crowd with a statement dress, like the heavily embellished one by Cynthia Rowley, or, for the more daring customer, go for the gothic look with VFILES’ loud, red design. For a more classic feel with a retro flourish, opt for Desigual’s whimsical dress.
Cynthia Rowley
Jonathan Cohen
Desigual
VFILES
TEEN SHIMMER & SHINE Metallics were a big hit this season, and so were other shimmery details, such as sequins and glitter finishes. Seen in a variety of product categories – from outerwear to skirts – teens have plenty of options to play with. Work some iridescence into your outfit with Rebecca Taylor’s easy sweater, or go for a whole-body look with Phillip Lim’s long, oversized bomber-hyrbid.
Rebecca Taylor
Creatures of the Wind
Diesel Black Gold
3.1 Phillip Lim
TEEN A CROPPED TOP
Show off your young body with a cropped top, such as the graphic-heavy one by VFILES, or Creatures of the Wind’s long-sleeve take in deep, rich emerald. Perfect with a matching skirt – try Katie Gallagher’s velvety design, and its oxblood hue will give you a touch of dark, sophisticated glamor.
VFILES
Rebecca Taylor
Katie Gallagher
Creatures of the Wind
TWEEN A STATEMENT MINI The miniskirt was definitely an important juniors-oriented product category. From Desigual’s playfully patterned design, to Tanya Taylor’s shiny take, a statement mini is a wardrobe essential for tweens this season. Opening Ceremony experimented with quilting, while Diesel Black Gold added some embellishments to inject their mini with some unique texture and shine.
Desigual
Opening Ceremony
Diesel Black Gold
Tanya Taylor
TWEEN A ROLLNECK SWEATER
A rollneck sweater will keep you both stylish and warm this season. Try Marissa Webb’s design, in one of this season’s key colors, dusty pink, or keep it simple in Karen Walker’s soft white. If you prefer the raw, distressed look, try Nanette Lepore’s carefully crocheted version.
Nanette Lepore
Karen Walker
Marissa Webb
Tommy Hilfiger
TWEEN A FUN, GRAPHIC TOP Whimsical prints and patterns give a youthful flare to any top. Red Valentino took its inspiration from beloved Disney characters; Betsey Johnson kept things dramatic with bold, leopard prints; and Cynthia Rowley paired candy-esque colors with eclectic beading. And like many other designers, Fashion East took inspiration from the animal world, and the adorable results would be loved by any tween.
RED Valentino
Cynthia Rowley
Betsey Johnson
Fashion East
ACCESSORIES ELBOW-HIGH GLOVES
The elbow-high glove was a key accessories piece this season. Try Altuzarra’s classic take, in soft leather, or go for Marc Jacobs’ knitted version for some added warmth.
Altuzarra
Marc Jacobs
SHADES Sunglasses of a variety of shapes were seen on New York’s catwalks. From circular to decorated frames, to aviators and Wayfarer styles, this optical piece is a must-have this season.
Carolina Herrara
3.1 Phillip Lim
Jeremy Scott
SCARF
Keep your neck warm with a scarf this season. Continuing along his collection’s overall BMX-feel, Marc Jacobs styled the accessory in an urban, sporty way. Meanwhile, Michael Kors and Thakoon took things in a more feminine direction, whether it was a scarf made from knitwear, silk, or fur.
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Thakoon
Michael Kors
FOOTWEAR A SLOUCHY, OVERSIZED BOOT
The relaxed feel of the loose, fluid shafts of these slouchy boots are perfect compliments to the voluminous outerwear seen in various designers’ collections. Derek Lam’s ultra-soft designs, for instance, make leather look absolutely liquidous.
Rag & Bone
Derek Lam
FUR DETAIL
Continuing along the fur trend, add a furry shoe to your collection. From the shearling details of Rag & Bone’s mules, or the fuzzy touches on the heels of Nina Ricci’s delicate pumps, fur was seen this season on apparel and footwear alike.
Nina Ricci
Rag & Bone
AN ANKLE-STRAP PUMP
Give your feet some glamor with a pair of pumps featuring a thin, barely-there ankle strap. Jason Wu’s metallic approach adds a touch of shimmer, while Nina Ricci’s designs complete her collection’s overall boudoir inspiration.
Nina Ricci
Jason Wu