From Battlefields to Catwalks

TUBELACES x SĂœR October 2014 Editorial photographed by Robert Wunsch

he recent, popular trend of army-esque fashion, which emerged from the street styles of pop icons and bloggers alike, has triggered a wave of men and women to parade about in camo-patterned jackets, distressed parkas, and chunky combat boots. They seem to be taken by pieces in dark olives, deep forest greens, and mud dy browns, often featuring plenty of heavy studs and spikes. Perhap it’s because they bring a certain air of masculinity and utilitarianism to any outfit. The ladies, of course, are still always keen to work some whimsical charm and girly pizzazz into their edgy ensembles, either by incorporating softer, feminine pieces, such as white dresses and colorful heels, or by dashing on some bright red lipstick and vivid eye shadow. To be sure, this trend is all about rebelliousness, taking battlewear to the streets; in short, what’s important isn’t merely adopting military styles, but breaking free of cookie-cutter looks by making them your own.

Its first inten fashionistas a their surround inquisitive ene ingenious idea with more subt since its con grenades, and the catwalks o

ut where and why did the art of modern camouflage first emerge? ntion was certainly not to satisfy the ever-changing wardrobe tastes of and celebrities - no, its goal was to blend its wearers into ding environment, such that they could be rendered nearly invisible to emy eyes. And it was the French who’d first experimented with this a of concealment, when they swapped their army’s flashy red knickers tle field pieces after an embarassing defeat by the Germans during WWI. But nception, the camouflage print has transcended the world of bayonets, d army men, exploding off and away from battlefields and onto of fashion capitals around the world and the streets of everyday people.

ndeed, “disruptive pattern material” has been a source of creative inspiration for both artists and fashion designers alike. In his 1986 painting, Camouflage, Andy Warhol presents a unique interpretation of the military pattern – the work’s vibrant and striking colors, though not ideal for a GI Joe hoping to blend in with his surroundings, are highly provoking, inviting viewers to rethink preconceived notions of disguise and identity.

nd plenty of familiar names in the world of haute couture, such as Vivienne Westwood, Maharishi, Michael Kors and Jean Paul Gautier, regularly inject the print into their designs, to the extent that the line between runways and combat zones is blurred. Fast fashion retailers, including Zara and Topshop, have also been keen to jump on and profit from our culture’s camo craze, with their exploitation of the military style futher assisting its widespread, fast-paced diffusion across the global landscape.

TOPSHOP Floral Camo Print Shirt

From top: SOPHNET S/S 12 camo crewneck; Topshop cropped military jacket; SOPHNET S/S 12 camo crewneck; Vilebrequin swim s

shorts; Jeffrey Cambell Padua fur in camo; Vivienne Westwood camo rucksack; Converse All Star ox shoes; Maharishi Splinter hold all

ow certainly, fashion trends are ephemeral - as fall and wintry seasons fade to welcome warmer springs and summers, so will mercurial fashionistas embrace new styles.

But herein lays the brilliance of fashion: its high degree of recyclability. It is constantly looking to the past for ideas, digging through history books for sparks of innovation and creative epiphanies.

The result? The reemergence of old tastes and previous trends, reinterpretated and reincarnated to make extraordinary comebacks. So even if today’s trendsetters hang up their oversized military coats and box up their well-worn combat boots, these pieces will not be gazing forlornly out from dark closet corners for long. For it is more than likely that they’ll be dug up again some years down the road, when the spirit of the times says that camouflage deserves yet another encore appearance.

ACNE Sigrid Camo Jacket

TUBELACES x SĂœR October 2014 Editorial photographed by Robert Wunsch