Eluxe Magazine by Chere Boscio

AUTUMN 2013

EDITOR IN CHIEF CHERE DI BOSCIO chere@eluxemagazine.com ARTISTIC DIRECTOR Leslie Guidez CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Candice Litchfield, Chiara Spagnoli Gabardi, Jody McCutcheon, Arwa Lodhi, Cailyn Cox, Cara Silverstein PHOTOGRAPHY Dalton Louis, Yann Malotti, Jojo ADVERTISING AND MARKETING Kristin McClandry info@eluxemagazine.com

Follow Eluxe Magazine on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter @eluxemagazine www.eluxemagazine.com

Eluxe Magazine, Issue 1, Volume 1, Autumn 2013. Eluxe Magazine is published quarterly by MagCloud, New York

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CONTRIBUTORS DALTON LOUIS Dalton is a New York based Photographer who specialises in Fashion Photography. A graduate of the prestigious New York University Graduate Film Program, he holds an MFA. Before picking up a still camera, Dalton was an award willing Independent Filmmaker and represented Screenwriter. Dalton's current work can be found in fashion publications and in the Look Books of many up and coming New York City fashion designers. What does luxury mean to you? Luxury to me evokes the sense of quality at it's highest level, whether it be a pair of handcrafted shoes or a sumptuous environment. Luxury is beauty itself, and as such evokes a sense of wonder and splendour in the eyes of its beholder.

utumn is a time of change, and of contemplation. The carefree days of summer have passed, and it’s time to think about surviving a long winter.

This is a metaphor that we could apply to the state of the planet. Once plentiful, resources are now diminished, some forever. It’s time to think about our impact on the Earth, and what we can do to ensure our future on the planet. Many businesses are doing just that. From luxury hotels to makeup companies, from fashion designers to car manufacturers, those who invest in the future are sure to profit from their forward thinking.

JODY MCCUTCHEON Jody is a freelance journalist who writes about luxury cars and yachts for the web version of Eluxe as well as for Prestige International magazine. His real passion is for music, and he has also written for many well known music magazines and websites. What does luxury mean to you? Luxury is about what's rare and for me that means time to relax with friends and family.

CARA SILVERMAN

This edition of Eluxe brings you such forward thinkers as Johanna Bjork, a media personality who spreads the word on sustainability, Alicia Silverstone, actress and vegan voice of a generation and many others whose challenges to the status quo are making a difference, bit by bit.

Published, award-winning make-up/visual artist, Cara Silverman has a unique, extravagant style, which can be seen in our Autumn Beauty feature. What does luxury mean to you? Luxury is more than a word – it is an attitude & mindset.

We hope you enjoy this first print edition of Eluxe, and we hope to see you online too.

JOJO DANTESPADUA Jojo Dantespadua works as an artistic director, hair and makeup artist for some of the most important photographers and designers in the Middle East and beyond. You can see his work in the Allure of Couture shoot in this edition of Eluxe. What does luxury mean to you? Having the privilege of loving what you do every day. When the lines between work and pleasure are blurred, that is true luxury.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

PEOPLE 07

CONTRIBUTORS

MA VIE EN VERTE Johanna Bjork

Alicia Silverstone Vegan activist

THE RAW TRUTH A true story

BEAUTY 20

TOP TEN BEAUTY PRODUCTS for cold weather

FASHION 34

SUPER NATURAL

A VINTAGE MODEL

JEWELLERY Cipango Galerie

AWSOMELY AUTUMN Organic make-up looks for fall HOW TOXIC IS YOUR VANITY ? Jody McCutcheon investigates

LIFESTYLE 68

CAR BMW plugged into the Zeitgeist

TRAVEL The Mulino Grande Hotel

ARCHITECTURE SMith and Allen Partnership Zero waste homes

THE ALLURE OF COUTURE

Eluxurious object

HUSNA Sustainable Sandals

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PEOPLE

MA VIE EN VERTE

JOHANNA BJORK A designer by trade, Johanna Björk currently works in design, fashion, sustainability and wellness, and is the founder of a design consultancy (jbjork.com) and a partner in the creative agency MOJO Projects. As a fashion editor and reporter for a variety of media, she covers the latest and greatest in sustainable style, culture and trends from all over the world. Here, she tells Eluxe all about her Vie en Verte. What is the earliest memory you have of being in nature?

When I was about four years old, my parents moved from a high-rise complex to a house with a yard. I still remember the sense of freedom I felt when I was allowed to run around in the grass without supervision. I also have fond memories of going crosscountry skiing with my family--I’d do my best to keep up on my tiny skis. We would stop often and dig a big hole in the snow, where we’d sit and enjoy hot chocolate or warm apple juice.

What would be your eco-friendly dream travel destination?

There are so many places in this world I have yet to visit, but I absolutely fell in love with Costa Rica when I visited a year and a half ago. It’s one of the few places on earth where I have actually been awestruck by the beauty of nature and felt completely relaxed and at peace. Generally, people there seem to have a positive outlook on life, and a high level of ecological consciousness.

What are your favourite ‘green’ fashion brands?

Well, I try not to use the terms ‘green’ or ‘eco’ since I

What’s the most positive thing you do for the think they tend to box things in and play on preconceived notions that somehow something has to be sacrificed. environment in your daily life? I don’t eat meat. The world eats far too much of it right now. If everyone could just commit to consuming less meat, we’d save enormous amounts of resources (and prevent lots of animal suffering as well).

What’s your greatest eco ‘sin’?

Probably owning a car. Unfortunately there are no other viable options for transportation where I live. At least I don’t drive every day, and try to combine trips to be more efficient.

Sustainability is, should be and will be an important part of any good brand or product going forward.

I come across so many great designers every day that it’s hard just to pick a few — and really, I mainly buy vintage stuff — but right now I’m loving denim by Big Star and Nudie Jeans Co; shoes by Swedish Hasbeens and Naya; bags by Shannon South and Mercado Global (who make the most amazing dip dyed carryalls); undies and basics by PACT and jewellery by Article 22, Liberty United and Kirsten Muenster.

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I also dream of owning a reclaimed leather biker jacket by The Sway and a rain coat by Terra New York and going on a vacation somewhere warm and sunny, with organic cotton pieces by Loup Charmant, crochet bikinis by Ambika Boutique, and a thin, insanely soft cashmere wrap by Fibre Tibet in my carry-on.

What about beauty brands? Do you use organic?

I really don’t use many beauty products, but I do think it’s important to use ones that are in no way harmful to people of the planet. I just discovered Marie Veronique Organics and absolutely love everything. One of my staples is argan oil products by Kahina Giving Beauty. I use makeup by Korres, RMS Beauty, Josie Maran and Alima Pure, hair powder by Lulu Organics, sunscreen by Lavera or Raw Elements, and various other products from brands like One Love Organics, Blissoma, Juice Beauty and Pangea.

How would you like to change your work to be more eco-friendly?

Probably by spending less time on my computer and sending fewer emails. We often don’t think about it, but storing email takes up space on servers, which require energy to run, so instead of sending large files back and forth, I’m starting to use (and push my clients to use) online or cloud-based collaboration tools.

Which eco issues are most important to you?

My main goal is to help raise overall awareness about all the issues around us. But if I had to pick one, it would be food. We all eat several times a day, and each time we have an opportunity to use our dollars to vote for the kind of world and food system we would like to see. We don’t need a polluting industrial food system to feed the world’s growing population, we just need to do it smarter and better.

How do you think governments can best act to help stop climate change?

By encouraging good business and punishing bad business and making all companies in the world pay for their true cost of doing business. Today, far too many companies get away with causing environmental destruction and human suffering without ever being held responsible in any way. If they actually had to pay for all these hidden costs, many companies, the worst ones in particular, would go out of business . Whether we like it or not, commerce drives change. These kinds of government actions, I think, would go a long way towards creating powerful, positive, long-lasting change.

ALICIA

SILVERSTONE Clued in and Turned on Eco Advocate Cailyn Cox delivers a portrait of the actress, mother, and world's most outspoken vegan.

But it’s also up to us consumers to increase our awareness and ask for what we want and create a strong demand for good business. ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 11

ollywood is probably one of the greenest places in America, thanks to the influence of several outspoken eco-advocating celebrities, including Alicia Silverstone.

The 37-year-old Clueless actress began exploring cruelty-free products and a vegetarian lifestyle in her teens, which has subsequently led her to where she is today, a full-on vegan and an avid promoter of an eco-friendly lifestyle. Besides living a green lifestyle herself, Silverstone frequently lends her voice to ecoinitiatives; she is an outspoken environmentalist, an animal-rights activist and active member of PETA, and is constantly endorsing organic products. For example, in partnership with EcoTools, Silverstone released a range of eco-friendly wallets, bags and cosmetics brushes after learning that even makeup brushes were a product of the fur or meat industries. Although celebrities are often given free clothing or even paid by big designers to wear their creations, Silverstone shuns this deeply entrenched publicity system, insisting on wearing only locally sourced and second-hand garments herself. It is this devotion to her own lifestyle that has made her a respected and trusted figure in the sustainable fashion and beauty industries, as well as with the public. This admiration has led her to enjoy success with her own eco-friendly beauty and home product ranges, including an eco-friendly make-up and skincare line in partnership with organic brand Juice Beauty. The Silverstone range includes lip care, moisturizers and facial cleansers, all of which are nourishing and luxurious whilst being completely organic. Although some may criticise the actress for profiting from the eco-movement, Silverstone says: "This is who I am. This is not just something I'm slapping my name on. I would never align myself with something that I don't 100 percent believe in. I think people count on me for that, and I take pride in that." To update the public on her activities and views, Silverstone has created a blog called The Kind Life, which has become a favourite with vegans and animal-rights advocates. Recipes, as well as beauty, fashion and travel tips greet readers each week, as well as updates on Silverstone's eco-friendly efforts. We here at Eluxe have been greatly inspired by the Californian actress, and have no doubt she will continue to lead the way to motivate others to help heal the planet.

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Raw Truth the

a model's struggle with the C word a true story by Candice Marie Litchfield

In 2011, I was given 5 years to live.

was only in my early twenties, so I was shocked to be told I had thyroid cancer that had spread to my lymph nodes, and thus would require surgery and radiation.

After some painful medical treatment, things got even worse: the cancer spread into my lung and into more lymph lodes. The thought of enduring more energy zapping, sickening cancer treatment lowered my spirits and since I was given a death sentence anyway, I refused to go through more hospitalisation. I felt that my only hope for survival was to become my own health warrior, nurturing myself like never before. I wanted to explore natural

alternatives in order to get myself to a state of optimal health that could help keep me alive. I had absolutely no idea where this road would take me, or whether it would save my life, but I felt it was the only way. If I had to die, I wanted to die feeling good, not weak and ill in a hospital bed. The first step I took was doing web research, which revealed a wealth of good advice. I began to eat lots of cooked tomatoes (lightly heated with a touch of cold pressed, extra virgin olive oil) each and every morning, and stocked up on more cancer fighting foods, such as Bok Choy, blueberries and broccoli, and teas, including Roobois, dandelion and green. I drink only distilled or spring water (from glass bottles), and ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 15

PEOPLE

healthy cardiovascular system and provide protection against oxidative cellular damage. Enzymes both systemic and proteolytic along with probiotics were prescribed by my Naturopath to restore my digestive system. That advice was for me specifically, but I would like to share with you the important strategies that can lower anyone’s risk of cancer. I learned these with the help of Mark Simon at The Nutritional Oncology Research Institute in America (NORI). First of all, Mark informed me that stress reduction may be the most important non-diet factor for reducing cancer risk. When I first spoke with Mark, who is also the founder and director of NORI, he explained that my diet was good, but was not optimal and that I needed to follow a strict protocol in order to arrest and reverse the cancer that was spreading in my body.

I learned that protein fuels and stimulates tumour growth more than any other macronutrient. each morning I have some warm with fresh lemon, and before I go to bed I drink a glass of filtered water with a quarter teaspoon of bi-carb to alkalise my body while I sleep. I cannot stress enough, how much lemons and bi-carb should become part of your daily routine. I sought the advice of a Nutritional Oncologist, who introduced me to an array of supplements and herbal tinctures, such as Cats Claw, which I learned is a very powerful immune stimulant. I was also introduced to a different type of blood test that gives you an incredible insight into what your live blood cells are actually doing in their living form and can show whether they are behaving normally or whether they are in need of a change in environment. I would strongly suggest everyone makes an appointment with a Naturopath for a Live Blood Analysis. The Naturopath also recommended that I take some supplements to help my immune system function properly and to support a

Part of NORI's program required that I drink carrot, celery, beetroot juice daily and that I went onto a fruit-only diet for a spell. Pineapple, papaya, mango and kiwi were all recommended for their powerful proteolytic enzymes that lower inflammation and can dissolve fibrin, which protects cancer cells. I expressed concern to Mark about consuming so much fruit and he reassured me that these fruits are low on the glycemic index and will not cause blood glucose spikes if consume them whole and fresh; nor would they fuel tumour growth, although highly processed fruit juices will spike blood glucose and should be avoided. I also learned that it is protein (especially animal protein) that fuels and stimulates tumour growth more than any other macronutrient. Mark also told me that getting more oxygen to the cells through deep breathing and exercise would help me on my road to health. Enzymes both systemic and proteolytic along with probiotics were prescribed to restore my digestive system. Mark emphasised that I needed vitamin D, which is such a vital nutrient for overall well-being—unfortunately, although the best way to get the vitamin is through sunshine, too many of us lead sedentary indoor lifestyles that leads to deficiency. I also learned that cleansing from inside out is essential to leading a healthy life, but rather than starting from a toxic state, it is best to fully detox and cleanse your system first; call it a full system reset if you will. One way of doing this is by juice fasting. I absolutely swear by it, as not only does it rid the body of excess fat and toxins, it also comes with a magnitude of healing properties. We should all be giving our digestive systems a well-deserved break from processing heavy foods, thus allowing the body to concentrate on other important things, like healing. Whether it’s for one day a week or a month or a week every month, juicing should be a staple part of your life. We all ‘fast’ at night (that’s why our first meal is called ‘break-fast’). Not eating for four or more hours before going to sleep is common across cultures, because it’s understood that the body regenerates and heals better when it doesn't have heavy food to process whilst in a restive state. Foods that are easy on the digestive system, such as steamed vegetables, soup or a freshly squeezed green juice are highly recommended as your last meal of the day, rather than the heavy, meaty and starchy dinners we are used to. ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 17

Apart from food, your body absorbs chemicals from household items such as toothpaste, shampoos, cosmetics and cleaning agents to name but a few. Opting for genuinely natural or organic personal and home care products will leave you healthier. And remember that you’re more than just a body: your mind has to be healthy too. All of this worked for me: after my ‘treatment’ of surgery and radiation, my tumour marker was at level 13, which indicates an extremely high level of cancer in the body. After consulting NORI and changing my lifestyle, just six months after the initial test, my tumour marker was at 0.7, which was then reduced to 0.3 in the coming months, and it is currently sitting at 0.2. This means there are no large tumours left in me, just cancer on a small-scale cellular level. By changing my lifestyle to a more balanced, joyful, healthier way of living, I truly believe I will be cancer-free and care-free for the rest of my days.

CANDICE’S TOP 10 TIPS FOR A CANCER FREE LIFE 1. Limit or avoid all animal products including dairy and eggs. 2. Limit or avoid all processed foods. 3. Eat as high a percentage as possible of raw organically grown fruits and vegetables,

especially berries.

Good Sea Minerals which are the building blocks of matter, so ensure that you incorporate these into your life choice, and stimulate your stem cells using Blue Green Algae.

5. Limit all cooked foods—whilst you don’t have to go completely raw, lightly steam veggies like carrots and tomatoes: overcooking kills nutrients.

6. Avoid all fried foods at all costs. 7. Supplement with selenium, iodine and vitamin D. 8. Do not be overly concerned with protein intake. Protein needs for an adult are greatly overstated. The average adult needs no more than 10-20 grams. Fruits and vegetables will fill the protein requirements without eating concentrated proteins such as tofu, nuts, seeds and supplements.

9. Most people can benefit from supplemented calcium, magnesium, selenium, aluminiumfree bicarbonate of soda and vitamin D.

10.

Sea minerals are cellular building blocks, so aim to include seaweed, blue-green algae or sea salt to help stimulate your stem cells.

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BEAUTY

TOP10

Beauty Products for Colder Weather by Chere Di Boscio

NEOM RESTORE & INSPIRE Bath Oil. Pour a few drops into a hot bath, or on a washcloth in the shower and take a deep breath: jasmine, ginger and sandalwood offer warming aromatherapy qualities, whilst the organic oils penetrate your skin, ensuring a silky finish for hours after you’ve left the tub.

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AEOS Nail and Cuticle Stick: Rich in organic poppy, sunflower and spelt oil as well as rose quarts and clear quartz gem essences, this anti-oxidizing treatment comes in the form of a slick silver pen with a paintbrush tip, and can be dabbed on nails and cuticles to give them an intensive hydrating treatment

AMALA Detoxifying Bath Crystals: With winter comes more dead, flaky skin. Scrub it off with these organic bath crystals for more noticeably smooth and evenly toned skin. Bonus: helps stimulate circulation, too!

When there’s a chill in the air and the home thermostat rises, skin, hair and nails tend to get parched. We’ve chosen ten perfect products to save your skin, all of which we have tried and tested ourselves. And every one of them is all natural, of course!

AEOS Cleansing Oil: It seems c o u n t e r- i n t u i t i v e t o u s e o i l t o cleanse, but this not only cleanses skin thoroughly, it also moisturises while doing so. Containing organic and biodynamic oils, as well as the energies of gems and crystals, just a few drops on a moistened cotton pad are enough to remove all eye makeup and city grime.

TILTH Flawless Serum: An extra boost is needed in winter for our p o o r, ove r ex p o s e d f a c e s. T h i s Flawless Serum with Retinol refreshes frazzled skin. Light and easily absorbed, it’s perfect for mature skins.

REVOLUTION ORGANICS: This all over stick is perfect for just about everything. It hydrates chapped lips, flaky knees and elbows, and you can even use it on your face! If we had to choose just one winter product to save our skins, this would be it.

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TIZIANA TERENZI LILLIPUR Natural Perfume: Most perfumes are a toxic cocktail of chemicals. Not so Tiziana Terenzi. Using only natural oils, they’ve created an exotic range of heady scents inspired by cultures from around the world.We love Lilipur, with its spicy star anise and frankincense notes giving way to carnation and cinnamon, with a touch of cedar, amber and musk. Seductive and warm, it’s perfect for winter nights.

brings

Luxury Eco-Fashion to Abu Dhabi Silk scarves by Lucky Nelly Fashion by Fabryan Scarves Bejewelled eco-leather footwear by Husna Sandals Glamorous women’s wear by DRAMA Fashion show and sale at Abu Dhabi’s prestigious Lifestyle & Fashion Show at ADNEC this December 5-7. For more information, please contact: info@eluxemagazine.com

MOROCCAN NATURALS Argan Oil: Just a few drops of this natural, ancient oil from Morocco will make even the frizziest hair glossier. For an intensive treatment, cover the ends of your hair in this oil, put on a shower cap and leave overnight. Rinse out in the morning and find yourself with a sleeker mane.

REN Glycolactic Skin Renewal Peel Mask: In winter, when our skin is less exposed to the sun, it’s the perfect time to peel. This famed mask will lift off dead cells, exposing fresher, younger skin underneath, thus giving the face a new radiance.

EVAMAR Pure Honey Rich Day Cream: Even in winter, we still need some sunblock, and this rich, sweet-smelling facial cream has an SPF of 25. It glides on like a dream and also boasts antibacterial properties, thanks to its high honey content, so chances of spots are reduced. ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 23

Image by Dimitar Apostolov

BEAUTY

AWESOMELY

AUTUMN A

utumn is a season of change: of temperature, of activity and mood, and any fashionable look should reflect that, starting with makeup.

The loss of a sunkissed glow means more moisturiser and foundation is probably necessary to cover up redness and dryness that appears as soon as the central heating gets turned on, but packing away the white T-shirts and neon shorts and breaking out more formal fall fashion means your makeup should be matched to richer autumnal hues.

DAYTIME LOOKS 1.KORRES - Wild Rose Mineral Foundation - $28 USD at Sephora 2. Josie Maran - Coconut Watercolor Cheek GelĂŠe - $22 USD at Sephora 3. Tarte - Amazonian Butter Lipstick - $16 USD at Sephora 4. KORRES - Greek Yoghurt Nourishing Primer - $30 USD at Sephora 5. Koh Gen Do - Liquid Treatment Concealer - $48 USD at Sephora

For daytime, makeup artist Cara Silverman recommends warm neutrals in mahogany, gold and bark for eyes and glossy, rich corals for blusher and lips. Alternatively, a simple, clean look consisting of mascara, concealer and a bright pink or red lip lends an urban hipness to any outfit.

Photo Beauty Press

DAY

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NIGHT

In the evening, it all intensifies: mascara should be thicker, cat’s eye liquid liner in black can be applied, and two applications of any eye shadow should deepen the shade for evening. A smoky eye, achieved by smudging a charcoal or black liner on both the top and bottom lids, lends drama to the mood.

While blusher should also be used, a bronzer applied under the cheekbone accentuates facial structure. Lips can go deep red or burgundy. In fact, Cara says colour is the key to distinguishing between daytime and night-time looks: “The secret is the colours you use. As a rule of thumb, you should always stay lighter in the day, and go darker at night to properly accentuate the face’s bone structure, shadows and highlights.” It seems be it summer to autumn or day to night, the only thing constant in makeup looks is change.

EVENING LOOKS 1. Tarte - Amazonian Clay and Annatto Body Bronzer - $37 USD at Sephora - 2. Tarte - Call of the Wild Amazonian Clay 8-Shadow Collector's Palette - $36 USD at Sephora - 3. Tarte - Stop & Stare 6-Piece Eyeliner & Lash - 4. Set - $39 USD at Sephora

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Photo Beauty Press ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 27

BEAUTY

HOW TOXIC IS YOUR

VANITY? By Jody McCutcheon

oing to extremes for beauty is nothing new: the ancient Greeks valued blonde hair, so women would lighten theirs with plant extracts…and arsenic! During the rein of Elizabeth I, men and women alike would powder themselves with thick layers of pulversied bone, talc…and lead, which often made the teeth turn black or fall out. But have we come a long way from that? Far from it. We live in an age of silicon implants, chemical creams and myriad high tech ‘treatments’ involving anything from botulism toxins to lasers. Whilst most people assume there is some danger in the more hightech beauty therapies, here are our top picks of quite common products we all use to look slimmer, younger and prettier, that may be more damaging than you think.

BITTERSWEET SLIMMING Just about anybody reading this will have ordered a diet soft drink with the notion that it would help them slim down. But the main sweetener on the market, aspartame, consists of methyl ester, which breaks down upon digestion into methanol, also known as wood alcohol, which can cause blindness. Over time, methanol/wood alcohol builds up and further breaks down into formaldehyde, a known carcinogen and probable neurotoxin. The pro-aspartame camp, including Coke and the NutraSweet company, argues that methanol occurs naturally in items like fruit and alcohol. But do they mention that this naturally occurring methanol is accompanied by ethanol, which counteracts the methanol? Or that methanol in fruit is bound to pectin, which protects the body from methanol’s deleterious effects? Of course not, but if your business depended on sales of aspartame, would you? Photo : Viktorja Pashuta ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 29

PRETTY DANGEROUS MANICURES They may look amazing, but gel manicure products are also far from organic. In fact, they contain formaldehyde, phthalates, acetone, toluene, methacrylates and other volatile compounds which have been associated with diseases ranging from asthma to cancer. The fumes from these chemicals are also a serious hazard, as is the UV light that helps set the gel. The Skin Cancer Foundation has declared that although the cancer risk from gel manicure UV exposure “is very low, it is not insignificant” which means that if you must get a gel manicure, do so in moderation, with hands covered in strong SPF protection. Otherwise, get a regular manicure with a chemical free brand like Priti NYC or NailGirls.

WE ALL DIE FOR HAIR DYE The practice of hair dying goes back to ancient Egypt, when extracts from plants like henna were used. Today, about a third of women over 18 and ten percent of men over 40 seek to change things colour-wise, or simply eliminate those sinister signifiers of age, grey hairs. Permanent dyes—there are also semi-permanent and temporary dyes—contain over 5000 chemicals, including toxins with disconcerting names that combine unpronounceable words and numbers, like 4-chloro-m-phenylenediamine, 2,4-toluenediamine and 2-nitrop-phenylenediamine. These have been associated with cancer in animal testing, but alarmingly, correlations between permanent hair dye chemicals and human cancer rates also exist. Some reports suggest hair-dye users may be two to four times more likely than non-users of contracting non-Hodgkins lymphoma and multiple myeloma, while the risk for those who dye more than nine times a year goes up 60%. More recently, scientists at Leeds-based Green Chemicals have warned that permanent dye chemicals called secondary amines may stay on your hair and in your skin for weeks, even years, after the dye job. There, they can react with tobacco and exhaust fumes to create chemicals known as N-nitrosamines, which are so carcinogenic they’ve been banned as cosmetic ingredients. The solution? Read the label. Although many brands tout themselves as 'green' or 'organic' because they contain a few drops of pure avocado oil and such, they may still be chock a block with harmful ingredients. Look for brands like Organic Colour Systems or Sanotint Light.

WHEN WHITENING IS FRIGHTENING With age, adult teeth darken as mineral structure changes. Add in stains from everyday wear-and-tear, and it’s almost understandable how some people get addicted to bleaching—especially quick-fix whitening strips. But whiten too much and excess bleach can erode the tooth’s protective enamel. Once it’s damaged, the tooth is vulnerable to stains, and will turn yellow, and become brittle and sensitive.

Photo : Viktorja Pashuta

Worse yet, concern exists about the potentially carcinogenic nature of hydrogen peroxide. Over-the-counter peroxides potentially produce free radicals, which can interact with DNA and ultimately cause cancer. While the long-term effects of bleaching agents like peroxide aren’t yet known, the meantime, it would seem that moderate use is optimal. ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 31

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S U P E R N AT U R A L PHOTOGRAPHER Yann Malotti (www.yann-malotti.com) MODEL Anne Lise @ VIP MODELS MAKEUP Emilie Plume HAIR Christophe Pujol ASSISTANT Alexandra Vallégant Dress Atelier Sylfe Croset

POST PRODUCTION Yann Malotti & Alexandra Vallégant ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 35

Dress Atelier Sylfe Croset Jewellery Matrine Brun

All 13ème Lune

All 13ème Lune ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 41

photography DALTON LOUIS www.daltonlouisphotography.webs.com stylists JACCI JAYE & D. WEBB NYC jewelry Depuis 1924 International make up JITKA KLUGLOVA hair stylist LAURA VIGNOLA model KATERYNA KOSHEVOY @Streamline Model Management Special Thanks to Vignola Racing (Tom Vignola)

Vintage Chanel Massive Belt with Blue Stones & Black/Gold Chain exclusively at Depuis 1924 Vintage Chanel Tag Earrings exclusively at Depuis 1924 Push Up Body Luxury Flocked by Madame Supertrash ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 43

Vintage Gianni Versace Leather Black/Gold Medusa Belt/Earrings exclusively at Depuis 1924 Vintage Chanel Massive Belt with Blue Stones & Black/Gold Chain exclusively at Depuis 1924 Arpege Half Cup Bra by Huit Lingerie

Vintage Gianni Versace Medusa Earrings Gold exclusively at Depuis 1924 Vintage Gianni Versace Leather Black/Gold Medusa Belt/Earrings exclusively at Depuis 1924 Vintage Chanel Quilted Motif Bangle Bracelet exclusively at Depuis 1924 Manhattan Magic Air Bra & Boxer Shorts by Huit Lingerie

Vintage Chanel Tag Earrings exclusively at Depuis 1924 Rhapsody Soft Bra & Boxer Shorts by Huit Lingerie ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 47

Vintage Gianni Versace Medusa Earrings Gold exclusively at Depuis 1924 Vintage Gianni Versace Leather Black/Gold Medusa Belt/Earrings exclusively at Depuis 1924 Vintage Chanel Quilted Motif Bangle Bracelet exclusively at Depuis 1924 Backstage embroidered lingerie ensemble, Balconette Bra, String & Garters by Huit Lingerie

Vintage Chanel Gun Motif Earrings exclusively at Depuis 1924 Vintage Chanel Quilted Motif Bangle Bracelet exclusively at Depuis 1924 Eyelash Lace Bed Jacket & Blindfold with Embroidered & Silk by Nevaeh Intimates Faussement Nue Soft Bra by Huit Lingerie

the

Allure of

Couture

ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 51

anila-born couture designer Ezra Santos is one of several outstanding

Filipino talents making a huge impact in the international fashion arena.

Currently based in Dubai, Santos is considered one of the most influential figures in the Middle East/Gulf fashion industry. His neo-classic creations are often anticipated as a barometer of what's to come in the region's everexciting fashion landscape, and so it is with excitement that Eluxe reports that the designer is incorporating more eco-friendly materials into his stunning creations. Not only does this bode well for the planet, but Santos’s eco-moves are sure to be noted by his influential clientele, which includes international celebrities, Arab royals and equally affluent women of influence. A product of Central Saint Martins in London, Santos’s designs reflect a variety of inspirations from Christian Lacroix and John Galliano to the glamour of Hollywood’s golden age of the 1940’s. Here in this exclusive interview, he tells Eluxe about his plans for a greener future.

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Some people argue that couture is less wasteful on the environment because it promotes a sense of longevity: women buy these pieces to last. Would you agree? Yes it is! Couture is also basically done by lots of hands without using a machine, or at least, far fewer machines. Each couture piece is considered to be a work of art, not just a garment, and so it is kept for a lifetime. Which eco-friendly fabrics do you use in your collections? I am always trying to look for a fabric that is eco-friendly. I have used fabric made from plant fibres, and of course, silk and cotton are easy on the environment, both of which I mainly use. Recently, I just ordered a fabric made out from recycled plastic bottles from Switzerland. Valentino and the whole Gucci group have just changed their policies to include strict criteria for their production processes. Would you consider implementing a similar policy? What those designers are doing is wonderful. Of course, I do try my best to do a similar policy. All of my clothing is made by my own staff, who are highly trained and ethically paid, and while I use a lot of natural textiles like silk and cotton, I am gradually incorporating new, more ecofriendly fibres.

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All eyes are on Dubai's Fashion Scene these days, but it seems that there are very few eco-friendly designers. Why do you think this is? Dubai now is embracing a more eco-friendly lifestyle. Although Dubai has had a bad reputation in the past for being excessive, I would say that in no time, the designers will most likely follow the eco-friendly trend as well. How has nature inspired your work, if at all? Nature has always inspired me. I really hope that we could produce more eco-friendly garments. The only problem is the lack of resources to find the materials for tailoring. How will you be making your work more eco-friendly? I hope we could find various eco-friendly materials for garments so that I could produce more eco-friendly dresses in the future. ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 57

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FASHION

TAKING STEPS IN

SUSTAINABILITY By Arwa Lodhi

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Based in Turkey but selling internationally, founder Husna Bulbuloglu is proud that her brand is completely sustainable. Here in this exclusive interview, she tells Eluxe why sustainability matters.

Why is sustainability in fashion important to you? I have adopted a ‘sustainable value’ philosophy, because it is my duty to give back to future generations and to the environment. From where to you take inspiration for your designs? I take inspiration from nature, art and culture and turn them into a wearable art gallery. Whose style do you most admire? Queen Rania of Jordan, Janina Nectara and Olivia Palermo. These three ladies have a great sense of style. Always chic, stylish and elegant and they always look amazing. How do you guarantee that your leather is eco friendly? I use organic leather hide that comes from organically raised cows, raised on open pasture. The farms we work with are all certified organic. I am working with small family farms and businesses that are close to our tannery, which allows us to track our hides from farm to finish and helps us keep our carbon footprint to a minimum (wherever we can). Our organic leather is one of the cleanest and best leather available on the market today. I am very conscientious about where our hides are coming from and have chosen the farms that we work with very carefully. They also adhere to high moral and ethical principles of hygienic standards which ensure exemplary standards of animal welfare.

Which constraints have you encountered by following eco-ethics? Sustainability is by no means a new phenomenon. However, there are many barriers such as lack of a global labeling system, the slow implementation of cleaner technology and the shortage of lifecycle studies. The most important constraint I encounter is that organic leather still only exists in very small quantities and is expensive in comparison to regular leather. One of the main reasons is that the farms and tanneries are seldom close to each other, and non-chemical tanning is not easy to find. In order to solve this problem, we began tanning our hides ethically in our own primeval pools, using Oak bark or vegetable tannins to preserve the leather, and natural oils (from fish/animal or beeswax) to finish it. How has the public's reaction to your range been? I have got really cool reactions. I was held in high honour by Vogue Italia after being selected to show at the Vogue Fashion Experience in Dubai. This is a great indication showing that I am on the right path. I also gained lots of appreciation regarding my ecoinitiatives, which makes me proud and happy. What kinds of new designs would you like to incorporate into your range soon? Lead-free Swarovski crystals and semi-precious stones are the hallmark of the 2014 collection, creating elegant jewelled creations and sensual, ultra precious sandals that give this line of sandals that unique, bold and chic character typical of my collections.

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I take inspiration from

nature, art and culture and

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turn them into a wearable art gallery.

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JEWELLERY

Magical, Sculptural, Lyrical

CIPANGO Galerie Sylvie Tissot-Schneider was always interested in how stones, bones, horn and other materials from the natural world could be used as decorative objects.

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in Paris, she began to create her first pieces of jewellery based on objects from nature. Her unique talents were noted by Artist Christophe Tissot, with whom she designed an important set of artistically crafted bracelets made of gilded wood and leaves. The duo's dramatic work greatly impressed a certain Yves Saint Laurent, who used their accessories in more than 50 of his collections. Today the pair continue to create magical, sculptural jewellery for the Galerie, and sometimes invite other artists, designers and architects to design and display collections.

LIFESTYLE

After studying at the Institute of Gemmology

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TECHNOLOGY

BMW PLUGGED INTO

THE ZEITGEIST By Jody McCutcheon

ntroduced in early September 2013 at the Frankfurt Motor Show, the i8 is BMW’s first plugin hybrid. Imagine sports-car performance and aesthetics—including wing doors that open upward—coupled with ridiculously low fuel consumption, and you’ll have an idea of the i8. Indeed,

it scores better than many subcompact urban cars on fuel economy (2.5L per 100km, or 94 mpg) and emission levels (CO2/km=59g). With an underlying principle of “more driving pleasure, lower fuel consumption,” one might call the 2+2-seater i8 a gateway vehicle to sustainability in sports cars. The i8 is powered by a hybrid drivetrain that includes a 3-cylinder, 1.5L gas engine w i th B M W Tw i n Pow e r Tur bo te ch n o lo gy of f e r i n g 170 kW/2 3 1 hp. A 9 6 kW/1 3 1 hp electric motor powers the front axle, leading to a combined output of 266kW/362hp. The 5kWh lithium-ion battery can be charged at home in about ninety minutes, or at public charging stations. An expedient technological twist enables battery charging through deceleration of the vehicle.

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A lightweight body (thanks again to the CFRP passenger cell) optimises speed and performance. How does 0â&#x20AC;&#x201C;100km/h in 4.4 seconds sound? Absolutely sporty! The i8 offers five driving modes, from running on electricity alone to running on gas alone. Pure electric power provides a top speed of 120km/h and a range of up to 35kmâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;more than enough for daily city driving. Pure petrol power allows a top speed of 250km/h. The i8 offers the best of both worlds, and everything in between. The i8 is the perfect marriage of luxury and sustainability. By the time it's released in 2014, it will have been seven years in the making. Given the car's eco-credentials and aesthetic appeal. It will have been well worth the wait.

S M I T H | A L L E N PARTNERSHIP'S

ZERO WA S T E HOMES

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With a single tool, architects can now be the designers, makers and producers of buildings, and it’s eco friendly, too.

printing opens up an entirely new avenue for design and architecture: it allows designers to realize their creations with vastly decreased time from design to fabrication, as well as greater control over the fabrication and aesthetic of their work. With a single tool, architects can now be the designers, makers and producers of buildings, and it’s eco friendly, too. Smith/Allen architectural studio has been using a 3D Type A Machine Series 1 to create zero waste home designs. Their award winning Echoviren house was one of their most successful—and easiest—projects yet: “from an artistic point of view, it allows you to quickly test an aesthetic decision before committing to it. It's incredibly easy to switch scales: we routinely go from printing a full scale building component, to a prototype model of an entire structure, to a piece of jewellery. We envision our printer as a sort of digital Swiss Army knife, it's an extremely versatile tool concentrated down to a unit that can easily sit on your desk,” says the firm’s Bryan Allen.

components, Smith/Allen prefer a different approach: they use small (230x240x260mm) build area printers en-mass to print components. “We see large objects as assemblages: monolithic constructions assembled from finite parts. This is where 3D printing really excels-it allows the designer to make individually customized components each unique and designed that fit into a whole system. 3D printing can entirely shift the possibilities of pre-fab construction, allowing for individualization and aesthetic control,” Allen states. This shift in the construction paradigm is definitely starting. Along with Echoviren, there are some amazing assemblage projects that are emerging, such as Jonathan Brand’s3D printed motorcycle, and Emerging Objects radical constructions.

3D printing will certainlybe a long-term staple at Smith/Allen studios. As Allen puts it: “we want to print bigger, smarter, faster, cheaper, and better. In our studio now we have a couple projects moving forward. We are working on a retail interior space, as well as a gallery installation Echoviren is only the beginning. Smith/Allen are piece. Both of those will be coming out later this currently working on other large scale works using year. We are excited about continuing to push the 3D printed parts. While some architects are using envelope of architecture, sculpture, and design massive machines to print zero waste building using 3D printing.” ELUXE . Autumn 2013 . 75

TRAVEL

THE MULINO GRANDE ECO HOTEL

Modern day nobility

By Chiara Spagnoli Gabardi

ive hundred years ago, a richly wooded area just outside Milan was the preferred hunting ground of the Italian aristocracy, including Ludovico il Moro, the Duke of Milan, best known for having commissioned Leonardo Da Vinci to paint â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Last Supper.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; In later years, a flourmill propelled by fresh water from a nearby stream was built to help feed the local population.

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TRAVEL

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the croaking of the frogs, babbling of the river and chirping of the crickets being the only noise you’ll hear at night

Flash forward to the 21st century. A Milanese architect, Antonella Tesei, became enchanted by the abandoned mill and became determined to transform it into an eco-luxury hotel. Thus, the Mulino Grande Hotel was born. Tesei was careful to preserve the structure of the rural design and to restore decayed beams and cotto tiles to their original state. Any new materials she added were made of recycled or completely sustainable natural materials.

The result is a rustic gem that not only acts as a bridge between past and present, it serves as an ecological model for other hotels to follow: electricity is supplied by the hydroelectric energy created by the re-worked mill and geothermic energy. Indigenous flora has been planted around the site, including black alder, lime wood, mulberry and sycamore trees. But the hotel doesn’t only care about the environment; it cares about the well-being of its clients, too, and offers a Biospa, complete with a

Finnish sauna, Turkish bath, ice waterfall and all-natural treatment products. To help calm her guests out of city life, Tesei even chose to paint the hotel with colours based on the principles of chromotherapy (using colour to affect mood). Earthy greys, olive greens and deep browns offset by pure white calm the mind and spirit. Rooms here are also designed for relaxation—they are generously proportioned and quiet, with the croaking of the frogs, babbling of the river and

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chirping of the crickets being the only noise you’ll hear at night. Sixteenth century features, such as exposed beams and original wood and windows, transport those who stay here back in time, resulting in a rather existential sense of one’s place in history, whilst firm mattresses, crisp cotton sheets and high pressure showers provide all the necessary modern luxuries. Of course the food is all locally sourced, and dishes are prepared fresh daily in the Italian

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ELUXURIOUS

OB J ECT staffed kitchen. While it may include some ‘naughty’ options, such as creamy pasta, flaky pastry and rich desserts, the menu is completely free of pre-packaged commercial products, and the wine list—especially the Italian vintages—is excellent. Whether being rubbed down in the Biospa or chilling by the fireplace with a glass of Chianti, guests at the Mulino Grande eco-hotel are sure to feel like Ludovico il Moro did—like modern day nobility. For more information, please visit: hotelmulinogrande.it

Rich aubergine is always a perfect shade for autumn, and so this amethyst ring by Emily H London lends an elegant touch to any fall outfit. The ethical jeweller founded the 8C Foundation, which aims to ensure all gems and diamonds used are pure, certified and Fairtrade stones that will deliver real economic justice to all those involved in the production process.

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