Eluxe Magazine Issue 8

Pamela Anderson’s

Animal Roar

Luxury spa

Vilalara’s Liquid Assets

Madeline Shaw’s Favourite

Vegan Recipes

The Wisdom of

Audrey Hepburn

The Eternal Style of

Yves Saint Laurent Issue Seven - ELUXE

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TABLE

OF CONTENTS ISSUE 7

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07 10 18 22 32 38 70 82 112 138 142 144 146

IN EVERY ISSUE Letter from the Editor Eight Eco Objects Ma Vie En Vert Celebrity Ask the Expert Charity One to Watch Street Style Eluxe Exclusive Eco-Auto Astrology Events Conspicuous Stupidity

BEAUTY 26 Why Is Sleep So Important?

34 Matchy Matchy Makeup 42 Long Hair Don’t Care!

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48 56 64 74 86 94

FASHION Yves Saint Laurent A Vintage Affair The Timeless Elegance of Pearls Desert Queen The Patron Saint of Eco Couture My Fair Lady

LIFESTYLE 108 When Time is Money 104 Leafy in the Sky 120 Liquid Assets 126 Awesomely Eco Oman 134 Plastic Arts

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ELUXE M A G A Z I N E EDITOR IN CHIEF CHERE DI BOSCIO chere@eluxemagazine.com MANAGING ASSISTANT Stephanie English Strickland GRAPHIC DESIGNER Bethany Staples CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Diane Small Jody McCutcheon Sophia Hussain Elise Miles Korie Cantor Arwa Lodhi Maryan Abdinur Claudia Vannini Deanna Ayres PHOTOGRAPHERS Federico Barbieri Kundan Raut Larysa Dodz Purple Studios Siouxzen Kang Fashion League Productions ADVERTISING AND MARKETING Susan John Ng susanjohn.ng@gmail.com INTERNS Neesha Gill Andrea Lee Holly Litchfield FOLLOW US ON TWITTER AND INSTAGRAM @ELUXEMAGAZINE WWW.ELUXEMAGAZINE.COM Eluxe Magazine is a registered business in England and Wales, registry number 8067629. Eluxe is printed in NYC by Magcloud on 100% recycled paper with eco friendly inks. All material contained herein is copyright. All rights reserved by Eluxe Magazine 2014.

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EDITOR’S

LETTER I’m always excited about each new edition of Eluxe, but never more so than for this one--this issue is the first that will be available in the Middle East, a region that is close to my heart.

Given its relentless development, saturation of supercars and population of 7-star hotels, you may think that there’s hardly anything green about the Gulf--but it is changing.

Organic supermarkets, cafes and restaurants are springing up like daisies, and women in the region are learning more about the benefits of organic cosmetics, such as their ability to help calm rosacea and skin redness, as skin expert Lisa Franklin points out in this issue.

The Gulf’s fashion designers are also becoming more eco-conscious, and magnificent couture creator Ezra Santos explains in our exclusive interview why he consistently uses one of the most luxurious--and eco-friendly--materials in his fantastic gowns.

In addition to an Arabian focus this quarter, we’re also introducing some exciting new features. First up: food! We asked a super-healthy superstar of a chef to help kick it off: Madeline Shaw. The author of Get the Glow and Ready Steady Glow shares some of her favourite recipes with our readers.

Claudia Vannini, who does our on-line astrological readings, became so popular that readers were asking us to include her predictions in print, too. For the first time ever, she offers up a quarterly reading that goes beyond star signs and focuses on the state of the world instead.

I honestly think this is the best ever issue we’ve produced, and I hope you have as much fun reading it as much as we did putting it together.

Chere Di Boscio, Editor in Chief

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EIGHT ECO-OBJECTS

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Hynt Beauty’s Discovery Kit Looking to try and test some new organic makeup? This Hynt Beauty Discovery Kit is your perfect entry portal to the world of eco-beauty.

Contains all you need for a flawless complexion, and comes in your choice of six shades. $49 at eluxeexclusives.com

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Autumn Leaves Ritual Shower Mochi Amayori’s Autumn Leaves Ritual Shower Mochi are little balls of natural aromatherapy blends with ingredients inspired by the colors of Kyoto’s fall foliage including red, yellow, and green mandarin top notes with geranium and jasmine middle notes, completed with warm sandalwood, amyris, and cedar base notes. Drop one into your bath or shower, take a deep breath, and feel yourself float away like an autumn leaf ! amayori.com

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Ilia ‘In My Room’ Lipstick We don’t know how they did it. How did Ilia cosmetics make the perfect lipstick? This neutral shade called “In My Room” works on just about any woman, of any age, of any race, with any complexion. Plus, of course it’s fully free of any chemical nasties!

Get one at iliabeauty.com for $26

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Stella’s New Falabella Bag Stella McCartney is our kind of girl--she sneaks ‘eco’ into ‘luxury’ making even the biggest climate-change deniers keen on sustainable fashion. Yep, that’s right: unbeknownst to many, her classic ‘Falabella’ bag is fully eco-friendly and vegan. This bag does double duty: just tuck the gold chain strap inside and it becomes a clutch. Get yours for around $900 at net-a-porter.com

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Ana Katerina Eco-Jewellery There’s absolutely no doubt that Ana Katerina makes exquisite, unique jewellery, but what makes her pieces really stand out is their sustainability.

Whether it’s by using Fair Mined gold, ethically sourced gems or recycled diamonds, each piece this talented jeweller creates reflects a beautiful heart. anakatarina.myshopify.com

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Bee Venom Mask It may sound a bit fierce, but this Bee Venom Mask is a relaxing, indulgent experience. Deborah Mitchell’s all-natural creation helps to tease out fine lines and improves the overall condition of the skin. No wonder it’s a favourite with celebs like Kate Hudson, Michelle Pfeiffer and Kylie Minogue.

From around $60 at heavenskincare.com

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Free Loader Solar Charger Never be without your phone again with this solar charger. It comes with not one, but TWO solar panels which can be used to charge your phone in under 2 hours, using the glorious power of the sun. Fits perfectly in even a small handbag, and can be used out and about in the city, or on camping and hiking trips. Only ÂŁ17 at eluxeexclusives.com

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Abury’s Berber Bags The romantic, nomadic traditions of the Berber people are revived through Abury’s wonderful antique bags. Masterfully embroidered with Moroccan symbols, theseare infused with history, mystery and style, and each one contributes to ensuring a steady living wage for Moroccan tribes.

From £200 at eluxeexclusives.com

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Ma Vie En Vert

Shiekha Hend al Qassemi S

heikha Hend Al Qassemi isn’t your typical Arabian princess. Rather than spending her time shopping or gossiping over coffee dates, she’s been very busy being a fashion designer at the House of Hend, the Editor in Chief of Velvet Magazine, a business owner (she has several enterprises), and a mum.

Additionally, she finds plenty of time for her hobbies: painting, photography, and philanthropy.

Recently, Shiekha Hend showcased a new collection at the Cannes Islamic Fashion Festival 2015, where she was also chosen as the World Fashion Organization’s Goodwill Ambassador for Qatar. In case you’re not familiar with it, the WFO is an organization dedicated to promoting peace and development through fashion–something that’s important to Hend.

Here, in this exclusive interview, the Shiekha tells us a bit more about herself, her family and her projects.

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What inspired you to create House of Hend?

After doing an Architecture and Design degree, art never leaves your blood. You seek to find beauty, create it or encourage it in any field or means that you can. I began with fashion because that is a daily choice and one with instant results. It didn’t require as much planning or research as a constructing a house would. House of Hend is my artistic expression through the medium of clothing. It was a combination of my passion for arts, textiles, cultures, and fashion. I strongly wanted to create a fashion house which employs traditional fabrics, handicrafts and embellishment techniques and give it a global silhouette.

What influenced the look of your latest collection?

The last collection was a mix traditional and evening wear. I used fabrics which would typically be confined to traditional wear. I embellished them, combined them with fresher palettes and softer textures and made them look modern.

I have met many a strangers who were kind enough to share their heroic stories with me.

Which people making a difference in the world do you most admire and why?

Successful people that make time for causes, charities and their family; and the smarter ones that incorporate their family in what they do. There are incredible stories and references in world history to be inspired from. It always makes me wonder, how each and every human has so much potential, yet not many exploit it to the fullest. From style divas to revolutionaries, there are countless people to thank. I was reading an article about this young brave girl ‘Malala‘ . It gave me goosebumps, pondering how a young mind can change the world with just a vision and a brave heart.

Who is the typical ‘House of Hend’ customer?

My target audience is a well traveled, global thinking woman.

What is the most important thing you do for the environment in your daily life?

I recycle, I eat more salads with protein, because I like them. It is healthier and I feel that it is the least I could do. I buy organic food when I can and I do a lot of home recycling of kitchen and private goods.

What are your earliest memories of being in nature?

The Dhaid farmhouse where we had acres of agricultural land and animals. We enjoyed our trips immensely and looked forward to them and spending weekends in the swimming pool. Nature is in all forms is wonderful. I was born and bred in the UAE; here nature is in different forms like deserts, where sand shines like gold. There are rocky mountains with deep earth tones; sky blue seas.

What’s your greatest eco ‘sin’?

The pollution that we are a part of and co-created. Our cities are developed but we are draining our planet (through) the comfort of air-conditioning and the amount of electricity used on it–more than any other electrical appliance in our modern homes and buildings. From a drive to work or a flight to another city with the gas and fuels burnt, to the plastic comforts we all use, we all are responsible for eco sins on daily basis.

Does nature influence your designs at all?

Of course. It has a strong influence in building my basic aesthetics. I see immense beauty in both the green and the barren.

What is your greatest fear for your children’s future?

War and cruelty.

You’ve done so much, so young. What are you proudest of so far in your career?

My sons’ achievements. My sons are martial art athletes, piano players; they play music, read, paint, ride horses and are intellectuals. I am also proud of the charities I support and the difference my work has made to many people that have suffered. I am proud of the role I play as an active social player in Arabia and as a woman who works on what she wants with diligence. My journey has not been easy. I have lost as much as I have won, but I am happy that I survived and that has made me a stronger person.

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For which cause would you die, if any?

No cause should demand a sacrifice. None whatsoever.

Where do you see yourself in five years?

I plan an early retirement by the day I turn 40, after I have fulfilled my business career goals. Afterwards, I would like to spend it travelling the world and in my heavenly home, surrounded by the bliss of nature, family and friends. I also hope my writing career picks up as I always enjoyed writing and expressing myself. In fact, this coming August my first book will E be published by Bloomsbury very soon!

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Hear Pamela Anderson ROAR

Against Animal Testing

By Diane Small

F

ormer Viva Glam M.A.C. model Pamela Anderson is annoyed. Very annoyed.

The former Baywatch star is a huge animal lover and only agreed to be the face of M.A.C. Viva Glam on the basis of the fact that they were a 100% cruelty-free company.

But after cosmetics mega-giant Estee Lauder bought M.A.C, it changed the makeup brand's animal-friendly policies by selling products in China, where nearly all cosmetics are required to be tested on animals, unlike in the U.S.A and Europe. Anderson is now appealing to the cosmetics company to resume its cruelty-free policy and stop paying for animal tests.

"I was very disturbed to learn from PETA that M.A.C. … is selling products in China, where the company funds painful tests on animals in order to meet the country's archaic regulations," says Anderson, a PETA honorary director. "This has tainted the brand and alienated many of the company's longtime allies."

Several companies—including Paul Mitchell, Urban Decay, and Pangea—have either pulled out of China or refused to sell there until testing policies are modernised. Given the plethora of pre-tested chemicals on the market today, there really is no excuse for testing them again on animals; moreover, there are computerised models that can determine toxicity and how chemicals will react to human skin. But even more importantly, consumers are now realising there is no reason whatsoever to use chemicals in beauty products, as many fabulous organic and all natural brands are showing.

As documented by PETA—whose motto reads, in part, that "animals are not ours to experiment on"—toxicity tests still done on animals include eye irritancy tests, in which rabbits are placed in restraining stocks while substances are dripped, sprayed, or rubbed into their eyes, and skin tests, in which substances are rubbed onto the abraded skin of rabbits to check for the severity of the reaction. After being forced to endure these painful tests, the animals are then killed. We agree with Pam that these are completely inhumane and unacceptable.

"I was so proud to be a Viva Glam M.A.C. girl in 2004. But the buzz is much different now, and you know I can't bite my tongue," says the actress, who is releasing a range of vegan boots into the market later this year.

Until M.A.C. pulls out of China and continues its cruelty-free practices, Anderson urges her fans to swap to 100% vegan friendly brands like "Urban Decay, Dermalogica, Nature's Gate, Pangea Organics, and Juice Beauty," some of which she uses herself.

She may love our furry and fluffy friends, but it's clear that Pamela Anderson's feelings for E M.A.C and its parent company, Estee Lauder, are far from warm and fuzzy.

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Visit our shop www.eluxeexclusives.com

Exclusive deals on vegan bags, eco jewellery, organic skincare and much more

Offer: All Eluxe readers get 15% off. Enter the code ELUXE152105 at checkout.

Offer Good until November 30 2015.

BEAUTY

Why is

Sleep

So Important?

{You May Be Surprised} Long hours at the office, crying babies, street noise, snoring partners...it seems there's a lot that can prevent is from getting a good night's kip. But as Jody McCutcheon points out, it's called beauty sleep for a reason...

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e do it for beauty, we do it like babies; deeper is better, and all we ever want is five more minutes of it.

Ah, sleep—that peaceful, revitalizing altered state of consciousness. The less we get, the more we realize how much we miss it. But really, how precious is sleep? But why is sleep so important? Is it the optional luxury many of us treat it as, or are we paying a heftier price than mere droopy eyelids by skipping it?

Sleep habits have certainly changed in the last few decades. According to Oxford University professor Russell Foster, we’ve lost an average of one to two hours nightly in the last sixty years, and it’s hurting us. In fact, it may be killing us. The US Centre for Disease Control calls sleep deprivation a public health epidemic. Never mind America’s 80,000 yearly drowsy-driving– related motor vehicle accidents. Lack of sleep leads to serious short- and long-term health problems.

Why We’re Losing Sleep The human circadian rhythm (or biological clock) was genetically encoded through millions of years of evolution. In all that time, things were relatively simple, with sunrise and sunset the prime indicators of waking and sleeping, respectively. But then came the Industrial Revolution, leaving in its wake extra-long work hours, artificial light and other social and technological intrusions on personal life; and in just a couple centuries, our circadian rhythm has been thrown for a loop.

Consequently, we face a plethora of physical diseases and mood disturbances. Modern life’s “time crunch” hasn’t helped our sleep hygiene, with its round-theclock business hours, artificial light-dark schedules and pressures exerted by discrepancies between circadian rhythm and work/social schedules (aka “social jet lag”).

A Globe and Mail article suggests that sleep deprivation begins at a young age, recounting an Australian study that concludes daily, hour-long naps in children aged four to seven actually reduce the quality and quantity of nighttime sleep, with effects lasting at least a year. And according to the US CDC, the poorer you are, the less sleep you get, partly because the poor tend to work more hours per week just to earn subsistence wages.

Melatonin suppression affects more than just sleep cycles; it increases cancer risks

A major culprit is technology. Our use of devices tends to cut into sleep time. More importantly, though, the LED screens of these devices emit blue light, which basically mimics sunlight, thus tricking our bodies into thinking it’s daytime, no matter what time of day it is. Exposure to blue light prohibits our brains from releasing the sleep-inducing hormone melatonin, which is normally produced during nighttime darkness. Melatonin suppression affects more than just sleep cycles; it increases cancer risks, disrupts immune system functioning, and may also contribute to type 2 diabetes, heart disease, obesity and metabolic syndrome.

But more about sleep deprivation consequences later.

Another common cause of sleep loss is social jet lag. The human preference for timing of sleep is called “chronotype,” an individual quality that’s regulated by circadian rhythm. Some people rise early, others late. Problems begin when chronotype conflicts with work and social schedules. Late risers have difficulty reconciling the two, and tend to sleep-restrict themselves during the week while sleeping longer on the weekend, thus further disrupting circadian rhythm.

How Much Sleep Do You Need?

Multiple hypotheses have been proposed to explain the function of sleep. Perhaps the most comprehensive, updated explanation comes from a book by Richard L. Horner called The Universal Pastime: Sleep and Rest Explained. Horner expands the theory, first tabled by Aristotle, that sleep ultimately serves wakefulness—specifically that in sleep, brains process information garnered from previous waking experience, thus rewiring the brain to optimize more flexible behaviour in subsequent periods of wakefulness. This behaviour is favourably recognized by natural selection, thus increasing chances of survival, and even hastening evolution of the species.

England’s National Health Services suggests good sleep hygiene requires adults to get between six and eight hours of sleep nightly, while America’s National Sleep Foundation suggests between seven and nine hours. Yet most of us receive less than seven, while United Kingdom organization The Sleep Council suggests one in three people gets as little as four hours a night. Generally, there is a U-shaped association between sleep duration and health problems. Those who sleep longer than eight or nine hours a day, or fewer than six, tend to have associated medical conditions.

With age, people normally tend to take daytime naps to increase their alertness, and correspondingly sleep less at night. Otherwise, we tend to get our sleep in one sustained block.

This wasn’t always the case. History suggests that our circadian rhythm evolved such that, in the absence of artificial light and industrial shift work, we engaged in something called polyphasic sleep, which is common in the animal kingdom. In this bimodal sleep pattern, humans would sleep for about four hours starting shortly after dusk, wake for a couple hours—a time often used for sex or restful, meditative daydreaming—then do another roughly four-hour block of sleep. Together, the “first” and “second” sleeps, as they’ve been called, totaled about eight and a half hours.

Polyphasic sleep started to disappear from the human repertoire in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, i.e., after the Industrial Revolution, or relatively recently in human evolution. Yet only about two decades ago, scientist Thomas Wehr, in conjunction with the National Institute of Mental Health, performed sleep studies in which polyphasic sleep patterns quickly reappeared. Wehr subjected participants to conditions mimicking ten hours

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of day and fourteen hours of night. After just a few days of adjustment, subjects found themselves sleeping in two distinct phases (“first” and “second” sleeps), each about three to four hours in length, broken by a one-to-three hour period of wakefulness. This experiment suggests that, evolutionarily at least, waking during night sleep is a normal part of human physiology.

What if many of our sleep disturbances are rooted not just in the proliferation of artificial light and modern life’s twenty-four–hour schedule, but also in the human body’s natural preference for—and subsequent divergence from— polyphasic sleep?

Health Consequences Of Sleep Deprivation Sleep maintenance insomnia, for example, is a condition in which people awaken during the night and have difficulty returning to sleep. Such a disruption may hearken back to polyphasic sleep habits; but rather than embrace the wakeful period, people grow increasingly anxious about being unable to immediately fall back asleep, and that anxiety may ultimately prohibit them from doing so. Or consider that the midnight waking period of meditative rest and relaxation historically may have played a significant part in stress regulation; perhaps without it, or with the anxiety that being unable to return to sleep brings, we no longer manage stress as easily.

Oxford professor Foster says that thirty percent of medical problems confronted by doctors are related to sleep disturbances. The problem is, generalized medical training covers sleep hygiene only in broad strokes, if at all. As a result, many physicians may not recognize aberrant sleep or its corresponding consequences.

These consequences can be physical or mental, with short- or long-term impacts. For starters, sleep deprivation generally hinders concentration, memory, judgment and social skills, and not just in humans. Sleep-deprived honeybees and rodents, for example, also display such impairments.

Problem-solving and quick-thinking cognitive abilities are also affected.

In the short term, sleep deprivation is associated with hair loss, weight gain, hormone imbalance, infertility, lowered immune function and premature

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aging. Longer term, it increases risks of cancer, heart disease, mental health issues, type 2 diabetes, obesity, infections and impaired productivity.

A 2010 University of Warwick study suggests that sleeping less than six hours per night significantly increases the risk of premature death.

Lower-income shift workers—whose sleep patterns are often all over the place—are more susceptible to diabetes, obesity, cancer, stroke and heart attack. Research has also linked social jet lag with smoking, drinking and depression. And how about this possibility: if an inability to maintain concentration (i.e., attention) is a consequence of sub-optimal sleep, it’s not unreasonable to speculate that sleep disturbances in children may contribute to Attention Deficit Disorder.

One study suggests only fifteen percent of North American children sleep more than eight and a half hours a night, when nine hours is optimal.

Taking alcohol or sedative drugs can help induce sleep in the very short term.

Long-term, however, it’s a perilous strategy. Mixing drugs, even when individual doses themselves aren’t lethal, can be fatal (think Heath Ledger, Michael Jackson). Or people can become drug-dependent, making insomnia’s solution part of its cause. Another serious problem with sedatives is that they make the brain inactive. Yet sleep is an active brain state: while we sleep, our brain still works hard to perform its necessary functions. Drug-free sleep benefits brain and body function.

Finally, in the deep long-term, continual sleep deprivation hinders sleep’s capacity to shape and re-wire the brain to optimize survival behaviour, thus leaving humans vulnerable to competitors. Disruption of this process leads to lethal problems in an evolutionary sense.

Clearly, good sleep is necessary for good health, so much so that we believe medical schools need to wake up and add comprehensive sleep education to general medical training, which could better equip physicians with necessary skills to identify and treat sleep issues in patients. You can also improve your own sleep hygiene by using the above suggestions, but please consult a medical professional before starting any supplement regime. If all else fails, try a week of camping. A pristine day-night cycle, such as that found in the wilderness, will properly reboot your circadian rhythm and E you’ll sleep like a baby. Just remember to bring a good mattress.

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Better Sleeping

Solutions

Many drug-free ways exist to improve sleep and optimize its benefits: Take melatonin supplements. As this is a hormonal supplement, it’s wise to consult with a doctor first, but these little pills can help with insomnia, jet lag and Seasonal Affective Disorder.

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The most basic strategies are ensuring proper diet, regular exercise and sleeping/waking hours, avoiding alcohol, caffeine and excess food before bed.

Pukka Chamomile, Vanilla and Manuka Honey tea, $3

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A warm bath raises body temperature; when you emerge from the bath, your body temperature cools rapidly, making you sleepy.

Organic bath bombs by amayori.com, $21

Some dietary supplements also work. Calcium and magnesium are sleep-boosters, especially when taken together. Wild lettuce alleviates restlessness and anxiety.

Hops is often used as mild sedative. The amino acid L-theanine promotes calmness during the day and drowsiness at night.

Calcium & Magnesium supplements, $25 at theorganicpharmacy.com

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Keep the bedroom dark. Since patterns of light and dark regulate circadian rhythm, also try to ensure sufficient exposure to darkness. This regulates sleep cues, including decreased body temperature, slowed metabolism and increased melatonin production. Use a sleeping mask if your blinds are inefficient.

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Make sure your partner isn’t waking you up. You may not realise it, but you could be waking up several times in the night due to your partner taking the blankets from you, moving around or snoring. Some couples find separate duvets or twin beds moved together are a good solution, while others may just have to sleep in separate beds to get some decent shut eye

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Aromatherapy is also beneficial.

Studies such as this one advocate the soporific effects of certain scents, especially lavender.

Neals Yard Aromatherapy Calming Candle, around $35 at nealsyard.com

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Supermood Beauty Sleep Spray, around $35 at eluxeexclusives.com

Meditation and yoga relax the body and quiet the mind. America’s National Sleep Foundation endorses relaxation training and cognitive behavioural therapy as effective insomnia treatments.

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There is no replacement for the insight you can get from in-depth, face-to-face conversations. I also like being able to speak with people from luxury brands in different industries, because there are always parts of what they are doing that I can apply to my world. Luxury Interactive has given me that exposure.”

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ASK THE EXPERT

Lisa Franklin Talks

Rosacea

Rosacea and redness are on the rise, but one British based expert, Lisa Franklin has the solutions you need to stop seeing red

By Chere Di Boscio

W

ith celebrity clients visiting her practice for over 15 years, Lisa Franklin has become to the go-to skincare expert and facialist for the British elite. Her relentless attention to detail, professionalism and knowledge combine to provide a luxuriously pampering and technical approach, treating her clients as unique individuals, rather than generic skin types.

Being in the business for so long, Lisa has seen a slight increase in sensitive skin and rosacea, and has taken great care to research all kinds of skin problems in detail.

Here in this Q&A, she shares her knowledge of these common skin problems with Eluxe.

How can you tell the difference between sensitive skin and rosacea?

It’s often difficult to tell the difference between skin conditions because their symptoms in many cases can be similar. Rosacea is a progressive skin disease, with its causes under much debate, recent studies even suggest certain proteins made by the immune system can trigger the onset of rosacea.

There are various symptoms depending on the type. These include: Erythematotelangiectatic Rosacea, characterised by flushing and persistent redness, and may also include visible blood vessels. Papulopustular rosacea, characterised by persistent redness with transient bumps and pimples.

Phymatous rosacea, characterised by skin thickening, often resulting in an enlargement of the nose from excess tissue.

Ocular rosacea, characterised by ocular manifestations such as dry eye, tearing and burning, swollen eyelids, styes and potential vision loss from corneal damage Sensitive skin occurs when the skin’s natural barrier function is compromised, allowing penetration of irritants into the skin mainly due to increased water loss—it’s important to keep skin hydrated by drinking at least 2 litres of fluid, preferably water, every day.

What are the most common triggers for rosacea?

The most common trigger that aggravates Rosacea is exposure to the sun, affecting over 80% of sufferers. So there should be limited exposure to sunlight, wear a hat and use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF of 15 or higher. Other triggers tend to be stress and extreme weather conditions.

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The key is to be gentle with this skin, avoiding scrubs, harsh cleansers and alcohol based toners and avoiding triggers, including: alcohol, spicy food and pollution to name a few.

Which treatments can work, and what types of skincare should be avoided?

The key to the successful management of rosacea is early diagnosis and treatment. it can be dramatically improved with good quality cosmeceutical skincare along with a course of treatments tailored to the individuals needs and the type of rosacea. Rosacea sufferers should avoid harsh cleansers and scrubs, products made with alcohol and alpha hydroxyl acids. Avoid rubbing, scrubbing or massaging the face.

How can people keep attacks at bay?

There are many ways good skincare can help the symptoms of rosacea.

Calming ingredients like echinacea, vitamin E and green tea will soothe and calm the skin. Stable forms of Vitamin C can strengthen skin cells, and capillary walls, reducing the severity and length of flushing. It can also reduce the reaction of histamines in your skin that can cause swelling.

Ingredients like bilberry can also help reduce broken capillaries and tone down redness.

How can nutrition work to stave off an attack?

Try to maintain a healthy nutritious diet whilst avoiding triggers, it’s important to understand that everybody’s triggers are different therefore an individual needs to understand these and perhaps keep a diary so when symptoms occur, be it food or environmental causes these can be addressed and eliminated.

Rosacea is characterised by areas of redness, flushing or widened blood vessels, often on the facial area. It tends to appear around the nose and cheeks, and gradually worsens with age, especially if untreated; this is thought to have some relationship to changing hormonal levels. However, with good therapy, it is possible to prevent progression of rosacea.

Be sure to cleanse with a non-alcoholic cleanser, preferably something creamy, or even better: a cleansing oil. You can use olive or coconut oil directly to cleanse, or try a commercial product like one of those below.

To help fortify capillaries, you may also want to try a serum designed for this task. Finally, don’t forget one essential: sunblock. This will help protect your skin from one of its key triggers, but be sure it’s as gentle as can be. E

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Subtle Energies Rose Hydrosol Spray Pure Indian Rose is the key ingredient of this gently toning and hydrating mist, formulated to boost tired skin, improve skin tone and refresh both the skin and senses. Based on Ayurvedic principles, this spray is based on the notion that rose is a gentle ‘Rasayana’, or rejuvenator, and in addition to calming skin, the delicate floral scent of this Hydrosol will nurture and comfort the senses, energising the heart chakra.

Trevarno Rose & Jojoba Cleanser This all organic, milky cleanser is super gentle and is easy to use. Just apply with the fingertips all over the face, let sit for a few seconds to allow makeup to dissolve, then swipe off with a moist towel or cotton pad.

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Great Natural Products for Rosacea

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Ren AntiRedness Serum Formulated specifically to address the issues brought on by both sensitive skin and rosacea, this formula contains milk polypeptides to calm and strengthen skin while beta-glucan soothes redness and irritation. Rice protein boosts the lifespan of cells responsible for skin volume and rumex, a wild herb, reduces swelling and prevents hyperpigmentation. Finally, hyaluronic acid helps keep skin well hydrated.

Pai Chamomile and Rosehip Calming Day Cream

Osea Cosmetics Harnessing ingredients from the ocean that heal the skin naturally, Osea is a 100% natural and pure cosmetics brand that specialises in dealing with anti-ageing, sensitive skin and complexions prone to rosacea.

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Studies show this gentle product reduces the appearance of redness caused by flushing and rosacea by up to 27%.

It also stimulates skin’s natural production of collagen and elastin to plump skin and smooth the appearance of fine lines.

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Matchy Matchy

Makeup Lipstick & Nail Hues That Were Meant To Be Together

By Sophia Hussain

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ant to meet your perfect match? We can help--in beauty terms that is! There are basically five key hues used as staples in any beauty company’s arsenal: nude, pink, coral, violet, and rouge. Whilst the trend for unusually coloured nails (think baby blue, canary yellow and black) was huge over the summer, the colder months are returning to nail shades that would also look great on lips. Matchy matchy makeup is back!

For lipstick, I always choose an all-naturally formulated product with a crème or semi-matte finish. This provides the best opaque coverage and can easily be transformed into a matte finish by simply blotting a tissue, or amplified with the addition of a gloss or shimmer shadow at the centre of the bottom lip.

For nail enamels, I love using either a 5-free, or at least a 4-free formula, meaning these contain no harmful formaldehyde, dibutyl phthalate (DPT), toluene, formaldehyde resin, and camphor (By the way, ladies, did you know that camphor is what causes disgusting yellow nail stains!)

Now, prepare to meet our five perfect couples in a range of wonderfully matched shades.

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Naughty Nudes

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Beauty Bonus!

Nude instantly creates the illusion of plump lips and elongated fingers

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GIVENCHY LE VERNIS

Beige Mousseline is a nude beige lacquer that dries to a brilliant high-gloss lustre and is an absolute stunner on elegant almond-shaped tips. This French couture luxury comes housed in super-luxe bottles resembling tiny perfumes, topped off with a metallic mirrored cube cap. givenchybeauty.com

ALWAN COSMETICS

Elevate slick feline flicks, kohl-rimmed eyes, or sultry smokey eyes with nude lips. Jeannie is a gorgeous pigmented beige nude hue in a crème finish, with a delicate hint of shimmer that catches the light like diamonds.

An aromatic delight, this vegan-friendly formula contains natural vanillin extract and nourishing vitamin E for ooh la la lush lips. alwanco.net

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Rouge Reds MARIA ÅKERBERG LIP CARE COLOUR Amplify your pucker with a red hue and your pearly whites will look even whiter when you smile. Classic Red is a lush, blue-based pigmented red hue in a crème finish, and this vegan formula contains castor seed oil, jojoba oil, and vitamin E to keep lips smooth and soft. mariaakerberg.no

PRITI NYC AMERICAN BEAUTY

Look city chic clicking selfies with your perfectly manicured red nails. Adorn your nails with vegan-friendly American Beauty in a lovely poppy, blue-based red hue that adds a fabulous finish to your look. pritinyc.com

Cute Corals

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Beauty Bonus! Look for yellow undertones for warm complexions, fuschia for pale

INGLOT O2M

Accent your tips with this brilliant coral hue in O2M #696, which also has a slight micro-gold glitter sheen when it dries to a high-gloss finish after two coats. The enamel, which is suspended in sleek bottles resembling ice cubes, uses an innovative waterpermeable formula containing Polymer KS_02 which allows water and oxygen to pass through to the nails. inglotcosmeticscom

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INIKA VEGAN LIPSTICK Capture an Australian sunset in a swipe of a lipstick simply named Coral – a lovely peach hue in a crème finish. This lippy also contains certified organic avocado and jojoba seed oils for nourished lips. inika.com

Ultra Violets TUESDAY IN LOVE

Treat shrinking violet syndrome with a “Prince Harry” session. Just one coat of this vivid violet hue (aptly named Prince Harry) is enough to turn your fingers fancy. Use just one coat of the unique clear Top Coat and you’ll easily extend the longevity of your royal couple. This ingenious peelable nail enamel is also water permeable for a healthier alternative for your nails. tuesdayinlove.com

Perfect Pinks

SERGE LOUIS ALVAREZ

Use what beauty insiders covet from pro makeup artists. Bio Rich Lipstick (05) is a gorgeous plum hue in a crème finish that will definitely amp up your glam. Tone down the drama and wear this as a lip stain for a subdued grape hue. Contains organic jojoba, sesame, and calendula oils, and fair trade ximinea oil. sla-paris.com

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Beauty Bonus!

There’s a pink for every skin tone

SOIGNÉ BOTANIQUE

Your nails will look pretty in pink with Limonade Rose, a soft pink hue for a natural polished look (did you know “Soigné” is French for “well-groomed”)? This 5-free enamel also contains 85% plantsourced, natural ingredients, extracted from natural origins such as wood pulp, cotton, potato, corn, wheat, and manioc. soignenails.com

SWEET & SAFE KISS

Practice pouting with Rose Pétale, a pretty pink hue that imparts a fresh beauty to the face in a silky, semi-matte finish.

Created in collaboration with celebrity French makeup artist Christophe Danchaud, this organic lipstick cohort is infused with apricot, shea butter and pro-collagen enhancer gotu kola. absolution-cosmetics.com

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A Beautiful Heart CHARITY

Meet DEVIN

FEATHERSTONE, the smoking hot firefighter who feels the burn for CYSTIC FIBROSIS

By Elise Miles

Photography by Devin Featherstone

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CHARITY

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evin Featherstone is pretty dreamy by any girl’s standards.

Lantern jawed, six foot three and as fit as an Olympian, this rugged former pro hockey player also has a huge heart: not only does he earn his living risking his life to save people from burning buildings (and kittens from tall trees), he also devotes most of his free time to raising money for charity.

In fact, his pet cause is Cystic Fibrosis (CF), a genetic disease he learned about after meeting a man who is now one of his best friends: ‘Danger Dan’. Dan may sound like a menace, but the truth is, he has been threatened all his life by Cystic Fibrosis, an illness that progressively affects his lungs, restricting his breathing, as well as damaging his pancreas, liver, kidneys and intestines.

When Dan was born, his mum was told that he would not likely live to see his second birthday, and the local children’s hospital quickly became his second home. As time passed, improvements were made to treatments and Dan did live to see his second birthday. In fact, he ferociously fought his way to his 15th birthday, when he was informed that to continue surviving he would have to undergo a double lung transplant.

Very luckily, Dan received a rare set of donor lungs and successfully underwent the surgery, but in 2010 the doctors gave him some bad news again--his lungs were deteriorating at a rapid pace and he would need a second double lung transplant. Yet once again, Dan beat the odds of survival and continued to live despite his grim initial prognosis.

The same year, Devin met Dan for the first time.

Although they live completely different lives and would seem to be unlikely friends, Devin and Dan have one very obvious thing in common. Drive.

Devin has always been a highly focused individual. It’s what got him up

before dawn to brave the freezing hockey rinks where he would practice the sport that he so excelled at. But like all pro athletes, retirement at around 30 is pretty much mandatory. Still loving how sports made him feel, Devin decided to challenge his body by taking up one of the most extreme sports imaginable: ultra marathon running. Although he’d never even competed in a basic marathon Devin signed up for a 125 km running race through the mountains. After finishing in 19 hours and placing 22nd out of 200 competitors, he realized that he liked itand he was good at it!

After meeting Dan, Devin was so inspired by his strong will to live, he decided to use his love of sport to spread the word on CF, a disease that is still relatively unknown.

Devin partnered with Lululemon in Calgary, Canada to set up a stationary bicycle in the storefront window and proceeded to cycle over 300km from store opening until store close to raise money and awareness for CF. But his efforts didn’t end there. He continued to run long distances up daunting mountains that most people wouldn’t dream of even walking up. Looking down at his ever-present CF flag, he reminded himself that no matter how badly his legs, arms and torso were burning after running over 50 km uphill, Dan and others with CF face even tougher challenges every single day. From each peak, Devin would take a picture of himself holding the Cystic Fibrosis flag, always posting his photos on social media to raise awareness of the horrific disease.

Soon, he inspired people all over the world to post pictures of themselves doing something incredible to raise awareness for CF. Defying all doctors, Dan recently celebrated his 30th birthday in 2015, but he still struggles for his life on a near-daily basis. Despite his difficulties, his bright attitude and positive outlook remain contagious and are a true inspiration to Devin. This pair of best friends both hope that by raising money and awareness, soon CF will E no longer stand for Cystic Fibrosis, but for ‘Cure Found’ instead.

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Photography by Viktorija Pashuta

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Long Hair

Don't Care!

Most girls would love to have long, luscious locks, but some lack the luck of good genes and need a bit of a boost. Here, Korie Cantor tells us how anyone can have a thick mane, no matter what they won in the genetic lottery

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e all know celebs are using hair extensions to feel and look photo-ready. From Beyonce and Kim Kardashian to Gisele and Victoria's Secret Models, there's no doubt that they change the length and volume of their locks as frequently as do with our socks!

But a full head of big hair is not a luxury that only celebrities can afford. Hair extensions, weaves, and hair braids can be performed by your local stylist. Bountiful hair may not come cheap and requires careful and time-consuming maintenance, but the results are obviously worth it. An important prerequisite for getting the right hair is to choose the right method and type of extension: a botched up job can result in your hair falling out, and could even cause permanent damage to your natural locks. We've done the research and taken a good look at the most popular hair extension methods out there to help you choose the right ones for you.

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Invincible Extensions

This is a good option if you are experiencing hair loss due to medical conditions or any other reason. Invincible hair extensions, also known as skin wefts, are recommended if you have hair thinning out or falling away in patches. These consist of a skin-like material with hair "growing out" of it. The skin patch can be applied with a bonding material anywhere on your head, especially where hair has thinned. The invincible hair installation is difficult to make out and looks completely natural; it also allows natural hair to grow back while it is being worn. This method is not for everyone--if you have thick hair, it will be difficult to install, and if you're after mega locks, the wefts will not be able to provide the required volume. This method calls for frequent hair reattachment and professional care.

Fusion Extensions This is the most popular type of hair extension method. It's virtually impossible to detect from natural hair, can be styled and washed regularly, and you can also wear your hair up in a ponytail. Fusion extensions, also known as keratin or hot fusion extensions, can last for up to six months. A keratinbased bonding material is heated up and is applied to the base of the extension with a glue applicator. It's then attached to the base of your natural hair close to the scalp. Keratin is less damaging than other bonding materials because 90% of human hair is made up of keratin, and hence there is a natural affinity. In cold-fusion method, ultrasonic waves are used to melt the keratin and the bonding material remains cold. Both methods are quite popular to build length and volume.

The fusion methods are permanent, and you'll need a stylist’s help to remove them. Be warned: the bonding does cause some stress to your natural hair.

Micro Rings This method makes use of a weft of hair as compared to strands. Here each extension is attached to a few strands of your hair with a tiny ring.

This method continues until all the strands in the weft are attached to the natural hair. This is a great method to opt for if you have thick hair or plan to dye your hair or use heat-styling methods. They last for about 3-4 months before the rings weaken and hair starts to slip out.

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Taped Extensions Taped hair extensions help pump up volume in your hair.

This is an expensive method and lasts anywhere between two and four months. With this method, your hair is sandwiched between tapes and two wefts are attached, one each at the top and at the bottom, to help add volume, length, and give a full look to your mane. They fall flat and look natural, as compared to clip ins and sew in weaves. But there are a few common complaints about this method: the double-sided tape tends to show through the hair and it's not easy to wear hair up. This method will also be troublesome if you develop allergies to the tape. But taped hair extensions are easy to maintain and require less time for application, and ready-made extensions are easy to DIY as well.

Weaves and Sew Ins

Sew in hair extensions have been around for the longest time and are gentle on your natural hair. There are partial as well as full sew in weaves where the natural hair is completely hidden under the extensions. With weaves, natural hair is braided into the weft extensions. This allows for seamless integration and also negates any need for extra blending effort. This method is the most well known and has been in use for decades. If you take proper care of your braids, the natural hair will emerge healthy and safe when the extensions are removed. They provide a quick and easy way of adding length and volume to your hair. Sew in weaves also allow you to choose your hair in the color and the texture of your choice, and are long lasting. But the major drawback of this method is that it is not boyfriend-proof. It is quite easy to make out the lumps and the bumps if you run your hand through your hair. Also, the hair doesn't fall as naturally and as smoothly as you'd probably like, and requires regular upkeep.

Clip Ons

Clip ins have gained a lot of popularity recently and are cheap and easy to apply. They can be conveniently styled with your own hair to achieve a natural and seamless look--all you need to do is make neat tracks and clip on the extension at the base. If they are not properly applied they may fall off, move or make themselves too evident on windy days. Clip-ins allow you to try different styles and variations, but make sure you remove them before going to bed at night--if you keep them in, they could pull on your natural hair and damage it. If you're an extensions newbie, clipins are a great way to determine what style and look works for you. This is (of course!) the least permanent of all the methods available.

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See more from Korie at www.freebies.org

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Photography: Fashion league productions Creative director/art director: Niccolus Johnson of Niccolus Creations Retoucher: Leah Manzari of Manzari Retouch Makeup artist: Aisha Daly Stylist: Sherene Johnson Photographer: Blake Brooks Photography Hairstylist: Talisha Huddleston Advantage Talent Agency/Models: Shelby Vandenbergh, Hannah Wilmes facebook.com/pages/Fashion-league/491083184295147

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FASHION

Yves Saint Laurent

‘Style is Eternal’ It may seem like a quote born of the slow fashion movement, but “Fashion fades, style is eternal” actually came much earlier, from the lips of one Yves Saint Laurent. Here, Diane Small explores the history of the designer as presented in a current London exhibition

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ves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent came a long way from Oran, Algeria, where he was born on Aug. 1, 1936. He grew up in a villa by the North African coast with his parents and two younger sisters, Michelle and Brigitte.

Although he passed away in 2008, Yves Saint Laurent continues to be the focus of the fashion world thanks to the two recent French films released about his life, a constant demand for his most iconic pieces, including the original ‘smoking’ jacket for women, ethnic-inspired ‘gypsy’ skirts and blouse, and a UK exhibition focusing on his work.

“Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal” highlights the famous French fashion designer’s vision and its lasting influence on modern women’s wear. The show features 50 of his best-known garments, including pieces from his Russian Collection, the Mondrian dresses and the Tuxedo.

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An Early Achiever

Having designed clothing since he could hold a crayon, Yves Saint Laurent dreamed of moving to Paris to study theatrical and fashion design. He finally did so when he was 17, briefly enrolling at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture but quickly left, bored with being taught what he felt he already knew. Soon after, the boy genius won first prize in an International Wool Secretariat design competition, which led to an interview with Christian Dior, who recognised the young designer’s talent and hired him on the spot.

Until recently, Saint Laurent was listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as being the youngest ever couture designer for his work at Dior (he was recently replaced by Dubai based couturier Andrea Brocca, who launched his own couture line at 16). Eventually, Saint Laurent led the Christian Dior fashion house from 1957 to 1960 as Artistic Director before launching his eponymous brand with partner Pierre Bergé in 1962. For 40 years, Bergé managed the business while the more creative-minded Saint Laurent was free to focus entirely on design.

The arrangement paid off. By being able to put all financial, contractual and other business considerations aside, St Laurent was able to let his creativity truly flow. He played with male dress codes translated them into powerfully feminine pieces for women. He started by transforming that sailor’s staple, the pea jacket, in 1962 and quickly moved onto making the first trench coat for women that same year. The first female tuxedo was launched in 1966, followed by the safari jacket, the first trouser suit and the jumpsuit in 196768 respectively. As his partner Pierre Bergé stated: “If Chanel gave women their freedom, it was Saint Laurent who empowered them.”

A selection of these iconic garments is on show at The Bowes Museum exhibition, offering an exclusive opportunity for fashion lovers, enthusiasts, designers and students to have access to some of the 5,000 garments and over 15,000 accessories, drawings, paper patterns and objects conserved and kept by the Pierre Bergé Foundation in Paris.

But Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy wasn’t just to bestow women with confidence—he also aimed to dress all women, not only the exclusive haute couture clientele designers previously catered to. In 1966, he opened the first ever ready-to-wear boutique to bear a couturier’s name, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, paving the way to designer fashion as we know it today.

Artistic Influence

As anyone with a rudimentary appreciation of art knows, many of Saint Laurent’s creations were influenced by what he saw on gallery walls. Passionate about the arts and a collector himself, the designer paid homage to various artists in his haute couture collections. Possibly the most known of these creations are the Mondrian dresses, but he also gave nods to Diaghilev and Picasso in 1979 and paid tributes to Matisse, Cocteau, Matisse, Braque and Van Gogh in the 1980s. Of course, these couture pieces have become works of art themselves today, and they’re displayed in museums in much the same way the canvases that influenced a younger Yves are.

Saint Laurent lived artistically, too. All his homes — including famous ones in Deauville, France, and Marrakech, Morocco — which he shared with a succession of French bulldogs, always named Moujik, were lavishly decorated and filled with antiques and artwork by his favourite artists. He often said that Bérard was one of the greatest influences on his designs, particularly in the use of colour.

In 1992, New York Times journalist Bernadine Morris remarked on a Yves Saint Laurent retrospective: “What was wondrous about these clothes, besides their breathtaking beauty, was that nothing looked dated.” It’s something Saint Laurent surely agreed with. After all, “style is eternal.”

The show runs at the Bowes Museum in London until late autumn 2015.

For more information, please see www.thebowesmuseum.org.uk To see an interview with Pierre Niney, the actor who played Yves Saint Laurent in the film, visit eluxemagazine.com/people/eluxe-exclusive-interview-ysl-star-pierre-niney/ E

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Short evening dress. Fall-Winter 1970 ©Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent Alexandre Guirkinger

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Yves Saint Laurent at his studio in Paris

Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Berge and Loulou in Paris

Yves Saint Laurent at work in his studio, 5 Avenue Marceau, Paris, 1976 Yves Saint Laurent in Concarneau in 1966

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A Vintage accessories by Chanel, YSL and Bvlgari add drama to any outfit

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Previous page: La Perla vintage body suit This page: La Perla vintage 60s fringed bra, Chanel earrings

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Opposite page: Earrings:YSL vintage. Silk kimono, bustier and panty: Calvin Klein Pearls:Vintage Dior Jewellery This page: Vintage La Perla

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Opposite page: Valentino jacket, Chanel earrings, La Perla 60s fringed bra This page: Vintage Halston dress, Christian Louboutin shoes, Tina Freyland bracelet To find vintage clothing like this, visit vestairecollective.com

Photographer: Federico Barbieri Devin Featherstone Viktorija Pashuta Fashion League Productions facebook.com/federico.barbieri.photography Model: Giorgia Belmonte Stylist: Isabella Leo MUA/HS: Valentina Brasil MUA

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Steve McPhearson’s Model Sophie Yocarini Shoulder pearl piece and top by M- Unique Design

Photographer: Larysa Dodz Assistant photographer: Nera Strand Models: Damiët Korver and Sophie Yocarini Make-up/Hair/Styling: Marion de Waard

Searching for seashells was once a happy beachcombing pastime. Today, you’re just as likely to find bottle caps and plastic bags as you are winkles and starfish, as artist Steve McPherson points out with his unique artwork.

by Chere di Boscio

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Always

Appropriate: The Timeless Elegance of

Pearls

By Deanna Ayres

“P

earls are always appropriate,” Jackie Kennedy once said and it’s true–there’s hardly any time when pearls don’t match any given outfit or occasion. From ancient Egypt’s Cleopatra and the aristocratic women of ancient Rome, all through the Dark Ages and up until today, pearls have been treasured for their shimmering iridescence, lustre and inner glow. And what’s even better–they’re completely natural, and unlike mining for gems, the process of making them is eco-friendly.

The Making of a Pearl

Creating a pearl is not a quick business, since a grain of sand cannot be grafted onto an oyster to allow it to ‘protect’ itself from the irritation with layers of pearl until the oyster is between 12-24 months old. After this step, the oysters are returned to environmentally favourable waters where the pearls can thrive. The colour of the pearl will depend on the minerals in the water in which the oyster lives, and black pearls are produced mainly in the Indian Ocean, whilst very white ones come mainly from freshwater sources.

The health of the oyster is one of the most important factors in creating

valuable pearls; this is where eco-friendly really comes to play. For example, oysters are living creatures of course, and should not be overstocked to avoid stress and disease. They shouldn’t be densely packed together so they can produce larger pearls. Because they are cultivated on nets or baskets, oysters need to be cleaned regularly. Although some producers use powerful water jets that can harm living organisms in the water, ecofriendly cleaning is easier on the oyster, and the environment. This involves taking the oysters to shallower water and lets nature take its course by allowing certain species of fish to clean the oysters by feeding on their parasites. If done this way, oyster farms are actually good for the ecology, as they naturally filter the water and remove nitrogen as well as heavy metals from the water they live in. In fact, they are a wonderful bio-solution for polluted water.

So the next time you select a pearl necklace, ring or pair of classic earrings, choose a wonderful vintage piece or one from an eco-friendly producer and rest assured that your pearls are not only making you look like a queen, they're keeping the water clean, too.

Shop it: www.thevintagepearl.com, www.mypacificpearls.com

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Model DamiĂŤt Korver Pearl crown & Neckpiece by M- Unique Design

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Model DamiĂŤt Korver Pearl glasses by M-Unique Design, Vintage jewellery by Paillettentop

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Model Sophie Yocarini Pearl Necklace by Sibin

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Model DamiĂŤt Korver Nose ring by M-Unique Design

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ONE TO WATCH

Upcycling & Up & Coming

Mert Otsamo

By Chere Di Boscio

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or a man in his early 20s, Mert Otsamo has already led a very full and dramatic life. Half Finnish, half Turkish, the designer first came to public attention in 2009 when he was on MTV3’s Project Runway, where he placed third. His original and distinguished style, as well as his skilful tailoring that accentuates the dramatic contrasts of the human figure, caught the eye of many prominent Finnish politicians and celebrities, who then commissioned him to create outfits and helped generate a huge buzz about this young talent. But Mert’s joy was not to last.

That same year, his mother—actress Kirsti Otsamo—tragically died, and Mert stopped creating for some time.

His re-emergence into the public sphere came with Dancing with the Stars in 2013, and his creative juices were flowing once again. At the 2014 Oscars, Otsamo created eveningwear for actress Joanna Haartilla and producer Elli Hope, as well as a new collection. But this time round, the fragility of life and the ever-changing nature of reality became the focus of his work, which some may consider to be ‘Gothic’ in style.

His collections gradually evolved towards a more specialized means of pattern-making and tailoring which has further distinguished his label and unique approach to fashion. Today, there’s much demand for the young designer not only as a creator of fashion, but a model, too—the handsome young Mert has appeared in several highly artistic fashion shoots, as well as on the runway. After being asked to participate in a recycling project for Magnum Ice Cream and Waste Side Story, a fashion event that challenges designers to create clothes from waste fabrics, he’s also shifted his fashion focus more towards sustainability, as he tells us about in our exclusive interview here.

What got you involved in Waste Side Story?

I was requested to take part in Waste Side Story runway show, because of my more abstract artistic approach, the organizers wanted to use the opportunity to showcase an alternative take on what recycled material can be shaped into.

Waste Side wasn't the first time you created designs from recycled materials…

I'm always happy to support ecological causes. The projects are often very labour intensive as the recycled material has to be crafted into new fabric, with a story of it own, rather than the one of the original. I've always liked the challenge.

A few years ago I was requested to make a red carpet evening gown utilizing hundreds of upcycled ice cream wrappers (for Magnum).

My upcoming project for ELLE magazine uses recycled printed material which was also designed by me for another earlier project.

Tell us more about your involvement in Real Beauty and Nutrition I am one of three people in the "Real Collective" a start-up producing and designing practical, simple and well-designed solutions for things we all need every day. Real Beauty will be launched in the coming months via a crowd-funding campaign. We are hoping to revolutionise the way people look at and use cosmetics.

Your collection is about to get eco-friendlier. Tell us a bit about how.

Real Collective's mission is to apply good design to all parts of production.

With clothing this means that the production will involve fair pay, transparent supply chains, and be sustainable and ecological yet able to produce affordable quality clothing made of good materials. We have had to redesign the whole production chain, and we are proud of it. More information about this evolving project will be posted soon on my website E mertotsamo.com

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Clockwise from top left: Mert’s Waste Side Story creation; shoot from his earliuer collection in Paris.

Center: Mert’s creation for Magnum ice cream using recycled ice cream wrappers. Bottom right: another Waste Side Story creation; Mert Otsamo. This page: a gown from Mert’s first collection.

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Desert

Queen Soft silks and cashmere contrast sharp gold and bone amongst the golden sands of Death Valley

Photographer: Siouxzen Kang Stylist: James Lord Make-up artist: Becca Brassfield Jewelry designer: Sheila B Jewelry for KAIRU sheilabjewelry.com

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STREET STYLE

Get her

sustainable style

Caterina Occhio When she worked as a Development Aid Manager over a decade ago, Caterina Occhio specialised in social inclusion. Today, shifting her career into fashion, her focus is still on social inclusion but this time, she’s protecting victims of domestic abuse from marginalisation through SeeMe, a pioneering brand in the fair luxury movement that produces heart-shaped jewellery As the founder of SeeMe, Caterina’s transferred her own sleek, minimalist style onto the brand, whose hearts have adorned outfits of celebrities and CEOs alike. Here, she shares a bit more about her obsession with ethical style.

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Statement belts and jewellery add a punch to any minimalist outfit,and Caterina admires this one

by Amen www.amenstyle.com

“Es-Givien is a wonderful Italian company using eco-friendly materials. They also have a strong commitment to ethical sourcing.” esgivien.it/future.html

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“A good boat-neck tee shirt is the perfect staple for any outfit, and Royal Bamboo makes some great ones.” royalbamboo.com

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“I am almost always wearing a Heart necklace and bracelet by SeeMe, handmade jewellery created by female victims of domestic violence.” seeme.org

“I love shoes by COS, even if it is the daughter of (fast fashion queen) H&M. This brand has been built with the aim of being the ‘ethical face of evil’.” cos.co.uk

Every purchase from seeme.org helps female victims of domestic violence in developing countries around the world.

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The Patron Saint of Eco Couture

Ezra Santos Designer: Ezra Santos Hair and make up: Jojo Dantespadua Models: Elee and Elena Postolachi Photographer: Kundan Raut Retoucher : Jan Michael V. Castillo

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iven the numerous weddings and red carpet events in the region, it's no big surprise that the Middle East is heaving with couture designers, ranging from the feminine charm of Rami Al Ali and Michael Cinco's designs to the more outrageously avant-garde creations by Furne One. While all may be considered slow fashion at its finest, very of these talents can say their gowns are eco-friendly.

Enter Ezra Santos.

The Philippine born, Dubai based couturier is proud to be using a unique material in the elaborate dresses he designs for Shiekhas, socialites and celebrities. Fully eco-friendly and biodegradable, the textile is comprised of fibres made from the leaves of the pineapple bush blended with silk to create a material that's not only smooth and soft, but holds structure well.

It's new for most of us, but Santos proudly states that this fabric, known as Pinex, is commonly used in his home country: “People use if for formalwear, such as famous designers like Barong Tagalog, Maria Clara.

It’s hand-woven by (Philippine) weavers and is very scarce and precious.”

Santos has used this material abundantly in his work, demonstrating its diversity through a wide range of collections, including the one seen here.

Inspired by the Spanish colonial history of the Philippines, this range has a distinctive Latin flare, including puffed sleeves and Flamenco-like flares and ruffles.

His talent for standing out from a crowded couture market has put his work in high demand, and today the designer is considering opening a studio in New York and launching a ready to wear line.

We hope he stays devoted to his eco-friendly approach to fashion if he does.

Perhaps a line made from...(big) apple fibres and silk? Watch this space! E

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My Fair

Lady

She’s one of the 20th Century’s most heralded style icons, and for good reason: Audrey Hepburn sported a consistent look throughout her life, sticking to simple, chic staples. We demonstrate how her classic style and sunny outlook remain elegant, no matter what the era

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Little black dress: Fabryan.com Pearl accessories: Vintage, POA from a selection at rauantiques.com

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White dress: $575 Minna.co.uk

“The best thing to hold onto in life is each other.�

Audrey Hepburn

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Sunglasses: Vintage Chanel, $189 from a selection at www.catherine-b.com

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“I love being by myself, love being outdoors, love taking a long walk with my dogs and looking at the trees, flowers, the sky.�

Audrey Hepburn

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Black straw hat: $90 Solescapes.com

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“I believe in being strong when everything seems to be going wrong. I believe that happy girls are the prettiest girls. I believe that tomorrow is another day, and I believe in miracles.�

Audrey Hepburn

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LIFESTYLE

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Leafy in

the

Sky

Why are more architects choosing to include plants in their designs?

Jody McCutcheon investigates.

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ou could say that the number of plants adoring buildings is on the rise-quite literally in the case of Sydney’s Vertical Gardens at One Central Park, Australia. The marvellous hybrid of architecture and gardening is also known as the world’s tallest living wall, and is largest by area.

Perhaps the success of this distinctive, sky’s-the-limit collaboration is no surprise, as both architect Jean Nouvel and botanist Patrick Blanc wield impressive resumés. Nouvel has been designing award-winning buildings for almost forty years, while Blanc modernized green walls in the 1980’s.

Completed in December, 2013, and situated on the former Carlton United Brewery site, the land-revitalizing project consists of adjoining towers—one 116m tall and the other 64.5m tall—containing 624 apartments. As a dynamic urban village, it also reserves 16,000 square metres for cafes, restaurants, retail and office space, plus collaborative spaces for artists and architects. The buildings have been erected beside a 6,500 square-metre park, a green space large enough to host music festivals and an open-air cinema, a little pocket of escape from the surrounding urban crush.

Jutting from the taller tower three-quarters of the way up is a gravity-defying, cantilevered overhang boasting a common room, panoramic terrace and community “sky garden” for the enjoyment of residents. Underneath the overhang, a heliostat of motorized mirrors angles sunlight down onto the gardens below, while at night it reflects an LED light installation created by artist Yann Kersalé.

Indoor and outdoor loggias have been added to increase living space while exploiting Sydney’s warm climate. These extend inward from the façade on the north and east sides, protecting residents from noise, wind and sun, and outward on the south and west sides, overlooking the park.

Loggias and cantilevers aside, Sydney’s Vertical Gardens is all about the greenery, with rooftop, central and wall gardens consisting of 250 native Australian and 160 exotic plant species, and some 85,000 plants inhabiting the 166m façade.

The plethora of plant life covers about half of the building’s walls, representing an extension of the adjacent park. The 1,100 square metres of vertical garden insulate the building’s interior in winter and provide a natural cooling system in summer. With the greenery planted in mesh-covered fabric that absorbs air pollutants and breaks them down into fertilizer, the future of urban architecture looks to be a boon for air quality and urban temperatures.

Meanwhile, in the present, the Vertical Gardens development is Sydney’s first residential tower to achieve a 6 Green Star rating. Among other accolades, it’s captured the 2014 Best Tall Building in the World and 2015 Best Innovative Green Building awards.

Demand to live in the flats and praise for the building has been so high that the Rayadh Investment Company has hired Patrick Blanc and architecture firm SOM to adorn the Kadf Conference Centre with indigenous plants, using the foliage to help balance the extreme temperatures in the region, and to bring a little bit of green to the desert. It won’t have been the first time Blanc worked in the Middle East--his green walls have also adorned the Kuwait’s 360 Shopping Centre in Kuwait City, where shoppers breather air that’s actually cleaner than it is outdoors.

Other major architecture projects that have incorporated plants into their designs include the Agora Towers, Taipei and the Gate Residence in Cairo. Recently, cities like Toronto and Paris have made it mandatory for any new buildings to incorporate green space on their roofs, be these in the form of urban gardens, small parks or simply leafy green roofs. And why not? It’s an easy, cheap and attractive solution to reducing energy use and pollution. It seems that in architecture as in E life, Mother Nature always knows what’s best.

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When Time is Money: Investing

in Antique Furniture

Photographs courtesy of Sotheby’s An exceptional pair of carved oil giltwood fauteuils à la reine, Louis XV, circa 1765-1770 Estimate: €120,000 – 180,000 Sold for: €435,000

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We may believe that the older antique furniture is the more it's worth, but as MARIO TAVELLA of Sotheby's tells us, that's not always the case. Here's how to buy historical furnishings wisely.

By Arwa Lodhi

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all it the 'Mad Men' effect if you will. Or perhaps it came along with the 70s revival in fashion. But there can be no denying that the trend for mid-century furniture is going strong--flip through any major decor magazine and you'll find at least half the homes featured with include predominantly furniture pieces modelled after designs from Le Corbusier, Breuer or Gropius. Dine in a contemporary restaurant, and chances are you'll be seated in a chair designed by the likes of Eames, Bertoia or Grey.

But the problem with too much mid-century decor is that it can indeed look like a movie set (or, if done on the cheap, like an Ikea catalogue). One good way to avoid this is to add pieces from other eras, including antiques.

Contrast sleek modernist lines with the curves of an antique French dressing table, for example. Or soften the strictness of geometric furniture with a cascading crystal chandelier. Not only will this lend some eclecticism to your interior; buying such antiques could add value, too.

Due to lower demand, overall prices for furnishings from the 18th century and older have dropped somewhat (though this is not necessarily the case for truly exceptional pieces). So as trends rise and fall, now is certainly the time to invest in an older item if you have the chance--it's only a matter of time before 'shabby chic' makes a comeback, and for more stately homes, antiques always seem to belong perfectly.

Here, we've asked Mario Tavella, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby’s Europe, for his advice on making smart antique furniture purchases.

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Right: A pair of Gilt-Bronze-mounted Japanese Kakiemon Porcelain and Egyptian Porphyry brûle parfums, the gilt-bronze mountes by Pierre Gouthière, 18th century Estimate: £150,000 – 250,000 Sold for: £ 1,985,000 Below: A polychrome vernis martin commode, Régence, Circa 1720 Estimate: £25,000 – 50,000 Sold for: £97,500

Which types of antique furniture are most valuable right now?

Pieces with style, quality and provenance – something out of the ordinary, pieces which have personality and stand out from amongst the others.

Which are losing value?

For a little while now what is termed as ‘brown’ furniture, particularly of large size.

What should investors look for when hunting for antique furniture?

Something unusual, with quality.

How can collectors be assured of the authenticity of a piece?

From an Auction point of view: proper research, inspection and compliance usually prevails at respected Auction Houses, and so buying at auction usually allows for authenticity of a piece. Furthermore one could take along, or consult with a respected restorer or expert in the field, who could advise when viewing a piece.

Is it ever ok to buy a restored piece?

Yes it is okay to buy a restored piece. Given the age, usage and material, one would expect certain signs of restoration. Very often restoration merely means it has been cleaned professionally, or a piece of veneer has been re-glued, or the gilt-bronze mounts have been tightened or a chair leg made secure. One should be cautious however if a piece appears to have been very heavily restored, almost to the point of changing its original appearance, or to the point of making it look brand new. The original patina of a piece is always a bonus.

What advice would you give a budding antique furniture collector?

Buy what you personally find aesthetically pleasing and not just what is fashionable.

Mix and place antiques in modern and contemporary settings. Depending on your taste and if you have a limited budget, peruse the provincial auction houses, where you often find affordable antiques.

What are some of the most spectacular pieces you've ever sold?

A pair of Italian Baroque coral, silver and hardstone mounted cabinets which I sourced and studied and sold by private treaty and which are now on loan to the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, for everybody to admire.

No matter whether the it's in or out of style or the market is high or low for antique furniture, you should buy a piece because you love it and wish to live with it, not because you plan to liquidate it in the near future for a profit. Home decor is highly personal, and should be as unique as the E individual living in it.

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Eluxe Exclusive:

Madeline Shaw’s

#CleanEating Revolution The Clean Food movement has taken the world by storm, and we interviewed one of its leaders for advice on what to eat and how to cook

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eeling tired, rundown and in need of a physical and mental change, Madeleine Shaw moved from London to Australia in search of better food, weather and health. She found all three.

Namely, her health improved not only with more sunny hours and the outdoor activity that encourages, but also due to major changes in her diet. Those changes came about after Madeleine worked in a health food restaurant, and she brought back all that she learned and is now sharing it with the world.

Her website plays homage to healthy living, and is a source of inspiration for those that can’t see Madeleine for a one-on-one well being consultation.

Every week, her nearly 30k Twitter followers, 153k Instagram followers and legions of visitors to her website rush to check original recipes she posts that aren’t just easy to prepare, but are absolutely bursting with goodness and packed full of flavour. With the firm belief that what we put into our bodies influences how we look, feel, and think, it’s fair to say that this this health guru is living proof that a pure diet works.

Now with a best selling cookbook under her belt (titled Get The Glow), Madeleine’s approach to healthy living is becoming a global phenomenon.

In this exclusive interview, we grilled the guru on what exactly the future holds for her and her work.

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ke When did you first become conscious of health and well-being?

I used to have terrible IBS I went to see every doctor and tried everything!

But it wasn’t until I cleared up my diet that it really changed. I began working in a cafe in Sydney cooking and loved creating new dishes with healthy ingredients, I knew then that I wanted to work in the health industry.

What meal do you make for special occasions?

I love a pumpkin curry. My boyfriend is half Indian so we are often experimenting with different flavours.

What music do you listen to when cooking, if any?

Tracy Champman or Xavier Rudd.

Favourite comfort food?

Ice cream – coconut of course.

What’s the first recipe that you ever cooked?

Lemon cake.

What’s the best piece of advice that you were ever given?

That there is only one you.

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Have you ever had any kitchen disasters?

All the time! But that’s how you learn and get better.

Which three foods can you absolutely not live without?

Eggs, coconut oil and avocados.

Does anyone else inspire you in the kitchen?

I love lots of Chefs. I’d say Diana Henry is my favourite.

What are your best tips for keeping your skin glowing?

Drink two litres of water. Up your veggies! Eat healthy fats like coconut oil, olive oil, avocados, nuts seed, and fish. De-stress. Practice yoga.

If you could inspire someone to change just one thing about their diet, what would it be and why?

Eat protein for breakfast, eggs or nuts and seeds in your porridge. It keeps you going for longer and stops you from getting those energy slumps during the day.

Lastly, what’s next for Madeleine Shaw?

I am currently developing an online program that brings together exercise, nutrition, and mindfulness. It’s going to be epic, and I can’t wait to share E it with you!

CHICKPEA AND LENTIL DHAL WITH COCONUT CAULIFLOWER RICE serves 4 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp chilli powder 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp coconut oil 1 red onion, roughly chopped 2 cloves garlic 3cm fresh grated ginger 1 x 400ml can coconut milk 1 x 400g can chickpeas, drained 150g dried red lentils 100g spinach salt and pepper

COCONUT CAULIFLOWER RICE

1 cauliflower, stalk removed and roughly chopped 1 tbsp coconut oil 1 white onion, finely diced ½ tsp ground cardamom 200ml coconut milk

The combined flavours in this dish make for an incomparable taste sensation. It may be vegetarian, but it offers a solid source of protein in the form of lentils. It is best enjoyed on a cold evening, snuggled up with a movie.

Put the dry spices in a frying pan, and dry-fry for 1 minute with a pinch of salt. Heat the coconut oil over a medium heat for 1 minute, then add the onion and sautĂŠ for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for a few minutes more, then pour in the coconut milk with a pinch of salt and a good grind of pepper. Add the drained chickpeas and the lentils. Cook, covered, for 40 minutes.

For the last 5 minutes, drop in the spinach and stir so it wilts in with the mix.

Serve with Coconut Cauliflower Rice.

Coconut cauliflower rice - Put the roughly chopped cauliflower into a food processor and process for a few minutes until you get a rice-like consistency.

Heat the coconut oil in a large pot over a medium to high heat, then add the onion and cook for 5 minutes. Throw in the cardamom and stir for 30 seconds, then add the cauliflower and coconut milk, and cook for a further 10 minutes.

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BEETROOT AND SWEET POTATO SOUP serves 4 3 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-size chunks 3 beetroots, peeled and cut into bite-size chunks 2 tbsp coconut oil, melted 1 tbsp ground cumin 1 onion, finely chopped 500ml bone broth, chicken or veggie stock 200ml water 5 tbsp walnuts, chopped 10g finely chopped fresh dill salt and pepper

Rub the chunks of sweet potato and beetroot in 1 tablespoon coconut oil, the cumin and a grind of salt and pepper.

Heat 1 tablespoon coconut oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat for 1 minute, add the onion and sauté with a pinch of salt for 5 minutes. Throw in the sweet potato and beetroot and sauté for 3 minutes, stirring constantly so nothing burns, then add the broth or stock, and the water. Bring the temperature to a simmer for 30 minutes, purée with a hand blender, and serve with walnuts and dill scattered over.

Tip: Tastes delicous with a dollop of organic or soya yoghurt

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RAW PAD THAI Tip: Add extra cashews or peanuts for even more crunch

serves 3 2 courgettes 1 carrot 1 yellow pepper, cut into thin strips 1 red pepper, cut into thin strips 2 spring onions, finely sliced 100g sugarsnap peas, finely chopped bunch coriander, finely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 100ml coconut milk 2 tbsp tahini juice of 2 limes large pinch salt 1 tbsp gluten-free tamari, soy sauce or Liquid Aminos pinch salt 2 tbsp sesame oil 3 tbsp sesame seeds, to serve

To make courgette noodles, spiralise or julienne the courgettes, or use a peeler to cut them into noodle or ribbon shapes. Do the same with the carrot. Put all the ‘noodles’ in a large serving bowl.

Add the strips of yellow and red pepper, the spring onion slices, the chopped sugarsnap peas, the coriander and the chillies.

Put the coconut milk, tahini, lime juice, tamari or soy sauce or Liquid Aminos, salt and sesame oil in a jam jar.

Shake it (with the lid on!), then pour this dressing over the vegetables.

Stir the salad, then sprinkle the sesame seeds on top to serve.

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RAW CHERRY AND CHOCOLATE FUDGE serves 6 100g almond butter (or any other nut butter) 100g coconut oil, plus extra for greasing 50g raw cacao powder 100g honey 1 tsp vanilla extract pinch sea salt 50g dries cherries

Put the nut butter and coconut oil in the food processor and mix for 1 minute or so. Sieve in the raw cacao, then put in the rest of the ingredients (apart from the cherries) and whizz for a few minutes until totally gooey. At this point throw in the cherries and mix with a spoon.

Scoop out the mixture with a spatula into a coconut oilgreased 24cm baking tin, then put it in the freezer for 30 minutes until firmly set.

Cut the fudge into bite-size bites with a sharp knife, then pop them back in the fridge.

This keeps for 2 weeks in the fridge.

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CAULIFLOWER PIZZA makes 2 pizza bases with tomato sauce

Basic base 1 small cauliflower, stalk removed and roughly chopped 2 egg whites, whisked 1 tbsp oregano 6 tbsp quinoa flour (or other gluten-free flour alternative) 1 tsp coconut oil, melted 1 tbsp coconut oil 1 white onion, very finely chopped 1 tsp dried rosemary 1 x 400g can tomatoes salt

Quite simply: the best invention ever. Gluten-free, fun to make, delicious. I like to mix up my toppings, so I’ve given you a few ways to enjoy your pizza feast. The base is always the same, and the garnishes are up to you.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas mark 4.

Put the cauliflower into the food processor and pulse until you have a fine texture (smaller than rice, but not quite flour). Add the egg whites, a large pinch of salt, the oregano and the flour, and blitz until a dough forms.

Grab a baking sheet, line it with baking paper and put half of the dough on it. Place another square of baking paper over the top, then roll or press out the pizza base with a rolling pin or spoon, until you have a circle about 1cm thick. Repeat with the other half of the dough on a separate baking sheet.

Brush the melted coconut oil over the pizza bases. Put them both in the oven and cook for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp coconut oil in a saucepan over a medium heat for 1 minute, then add the onion, rosemary and a pinch of salt and sauté for 5 minutes.

Add the tomatoes and cook for another 10 minutes at a medium simmer until the sauce is slightly reduced.

Pour the tomato mix on top of the base, and get ready to add your choice of toppings, which can be found at www.madelineshaw.com.

Tip: You can make several pizza bases and freeze them for later

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Liquid

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Assets

Longevity Vilalara Thalassa & Medical Spa

Europeans have long trusted Thalassotherapy’s healing properties. Chere Di Boscio tests out some water therapy in Portugal’s verdant Algarve region.

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pparently, water is a sentient creature. Or so I had just learned in an amazing documentary about the work of Japanese scientist Masaru Emoto. In a unique and rather bizarre experiment, Emoto had subjects concentrate thoughts of gratitude and peace on a jar of water, and then asked them to focus hateful, angry thoughts around another jar. The results? Positive energy projected around water forms beautiful, snowflake-like crystals. Water surrounded by ‘low frequency’ negative energy remains a mass of random, blobby molecules—in short, water reacts to energy around it.

Fascinated by the notion of ‘living waters’, I was delighted when I had the opportunity to stay at the Longevity Vilalara Thalassa & Medical Spa in the Algarve region of Portugal.

Most Europeans are well familiar with the Thalassotherapy concept, also known as ‘taking the waters.’

The term “thalassotherapy” covers a variety of treatments involving sea water, marine minerals and water jets. Thalassotherapy has long been popular with celebrities and the well-heeled: Jennifer Lopez, Vanessa Paradis and Catherine Deneuve have long been fans, for example.

The treatments are based on the idea that the minerals and trace elements in sea water, such as magnesium, potassium, calcium sulphates and sodium, are absorbed through the skin. The Longevity Vilalara Thalassa & Medical Spa offers an abundance of water based treatments: cold freshwater pools, warmed salt water pools, hammams, steam rooms, and strongly powered massage baths.

Thalassotherapy is often used purely as a detox, but is said to be effective in treating all kinds of conditions including eczema, psoriasis, back and muscular pain, arthritis and stress. As the metabolism is improved, this can lead to weigh loss and even a reduction in cellulite.

But water therapy isn’t the only health treatment available here—far from it, in fact. Forget a spa treatment menu: there’s an entire treatment book here, including everything from Reiki and reflexology to aesthetic dermatology and vitamin therapy here, and more.

Busy Getting Healthy

Upon arrival, I was given a full schedule of activities for my requested Longevity program. Designed with anti-ageing and prophylactic wellness in mind, the program involved visits to myriad experts every day of my stay: a nutritionist, osteopath, medical doctor, fitness expert, masseuse, beautician and more.

I won’t go into all the details—they’re kind of personal—but I will share what surprised me.

Firstly, the osteopath. I had gone to an osteo after my first marathon, so I was expecting a bit of stretching and massaging on a knee that likes to act up after a long run. but almost as soon as I entered his office, he asked: “How long have you not been breathing well?” Taken aback because there were no breathing related questions on the form I filled out prior to my visit, I asked how he knew (I have asthma) and his reply was a shocker: he could tell from my posture alone that I sometimes struggled for breath. He then proceeded to gently ‘re-educate’ my muscles to allow my diaphragm more room to help me breathe. The hour and a half I spent with him was more than worth my visit to this spa alone.

The second surprise was my metal toxology test. I expected to have some mercury in my system after some amalgam fillings had been poorly removed, but it turns out it isn’t just mercury I should be worried about: it was aluminium. I’m full of the stuff, which is astonishing because I’ve never cooked with aluminium pots, nor used a deodorant containing it. So what’s the cause? I was told that ‘most Europeans’ but very few Arabs and Africans have high levels of it in their system, leading me to believe even more strongly that those long-lasting, irregularly patterned vapor trails we’re seeing more of in the sky aren’t from plane contrails as people claim: they’re the chemtrails independent journalists have been warning us about.

I decide to do more research on chemtrails--its seems the ‘conspiracy theorists’ may well be right once again.

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To detox my system of these heavy metals, I am told to drink mineral water with a high silica content, eat a lot of coriander and take selenium supplements for a month. I make a note to buy these once I’m back in London. Or perhaps, to just move from Europe all together.

The same bad news about metals is delivered to me the next day by the wonderful Bianca. A highly experienced practitioner of integrated therapy, Bianca snipped a lock of my hair to see which toxins I’ve been ingesting over the years, and again aluminium and mercury came up. But Bianca’s real specialty is a kind of therapy pro sportsmen, supermodels and the mega-wealthy undergo regularly: ozone therapy.

Shunned by conventional doctors as being anything from ineffective to dangerous, as ozone is highly oxidizing and high concentrations can be toxic.

However, small ozone doses can increase some naturally occurring antioxidants in the body which helps fight cancer and benefits the body in other ways as well. For therapeutic use, ozone is made in a clinical generator which turns oxygen into ozone in particular concentrations, which is then mixed with your own blood and delivered directly to the body.

I’m not a huge fan of having blood taken, but Bianca’s touch is so light I barely notice the needle going in, let alone around a pint of blood coursing through the tube into a glass canister, being mixed with ozone then returned to my system. Instantly, I feel refreshed, as though I’d just taken a deep breath of sea air, and this clear-headedness and incredible energy remains with me for several days.

In between all these treatments, I plunge into the hot and cold Thalassotherapy pools dotted throughout the verdant grounds. There’s no way a single toxin could withstand this assault!

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Family Time Too

You needn’t be on a designated wellness holiday to enjoy the Longevity Vilalara Thalassa & Medical Spa; it’s a relaxing luxury resort in its own right. Rooms are spacious and minimally decorated, having undergone a refurbishment about three years ago. Perched atop immense cliffs, there are spectacular views from just about anywhere. If you’re not kept busy in the spa having treatments as I was, days can be whiled away on the tennis courts, lounging on the beach, or reading on one of the heavily pillowed beds scattered around the lush, fragrant gardens. Evenings are spent on the terraces overlooking the sea, savouring sumptuous dishes served by expert staff whilst being serenaded by the strains of sweet Bossa Nova singers.

The entire time I was at the resort, I felt genuinely cared for by the truly gifted experts and highly trained staff. The beauty of the grounds, comfort of my room and mineral richness of the pools all became a kind of healing meta-cocoon from which I emerged a healthier, fresher me. The Longevity Vilalara Thalassa & Medical Spa feels alive; not only in terms of its nourishing waters, but from the energy of its talented experts, amicable staff and thriving gardens. And I bet if its pools were all frozen, they would E form stunning crystals, just like Emoto’s happy water jars.

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Awesomely eco

Oman

The Jabal Akhdar, Alila’s first luxury resort in the Middle East, is a ‘Green Mountain’ with eco-credentials as Maryan Abdinur discovers to her delight

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iller views and charming surroundings are enough to lure us into this quiet corner of southern Oman known for its rugged vistas and hidden oases. Enticingly off the beaten track, the Alila Jabal Akhdar requires some extra effort to reach.

Accessible only by four wheel drive, travellers should expect an hour’s drive from Muscat International Airport, while those trekking from neighboring Dubai may take up to six hours to arrive. But it’s worth it--this place offers not only sustainability and serenity, but an incredible sense of space.

In fact, sweeping, unique landscapes are a hallmark of the boutique hotelier--no wonder Alila means ‘surprise’ in Sanskrit, as this is something the five star brand seems to relish. From secluded villas in Ubud to romantic getaways in Goa, Alila is all about premiere escapes tailored to the tastes of eco-conscious adventure travellers and nature lovers.

Perched on a panoramic cliffside, Alila Jabal Akhdar is most definitely a destination hotel. Its 78 suits and two mountain villas all offer prime

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Translating to “The Green Mountain” in Arabic, A’Dakhiliya’s mighty Jabal Akhdar marks Alila’s debut into the Middle East. Upon arrival it is easy to recognize the effort made to respect the local environment and fit harmoniously with its settings. In fact, Alila Jabal Akhdar looks to have been carved into the landscape itself, melding perfectly into the mountain range. With the region’s heritage as its inspiration, W.S Atkins, the UK based architecture firm commissioned to design the hotel, seamlessly incorporated traditional Omani architecture techniques. A combination of local stonework and contemporary design aesthetics creates a minimalist space with a nod to the country’s identity. The end result is a rustic aesthetic that looks as if it had been here forever.

Sweeping, unique landscapes are a hallmark of the boutique hotelier

Co-founded by Mark Edelson, a veteran in the luxury market, Alila’s brand affiliation with heavenly hideaways, urban retreats and ecosanctuaries spans over 15 years. The South East Asian hotel and resort chain’s reputation amongst in-the-know travellers has landed it on several coveted lists, including TTG Luxury Asia’s top 40 and Best Suite at The International Hotel & Property Awards 2015--or so we learned from Alila’s enthusiastic driver, whose affection for the company that employs him is as certain as it is infectious.

Solitary Beauty

positioning, overlooking a dramatic gorge and a jaw-droppingly beautiful infinity pool. Depending on the season, visitors can enjoy picturesque scenes of wild terrain, green plateaus and juniper trees. If the quieter pace itself is not a draw, the refreshingly cooler climate serves as a much-needed reprieve from the desert heat. Indeed temperatures here can dip 15-20 degrees cooler than elsewhere in the GCC, drawing a variable mix of residents and international travellers.

Inside, the journey into Oman’s past is as nuanced as its exteriors suggest.

Tapped to bring ethnic influences to life, Thai interior design firm P49 Deesign infused colour to the stone dwellings. Dark wood flooring and furniture throughout the suites fit exquisitely with classic fine linens and warmly toned textiles reminiscent of a walk in the souk. Elsewhere, authentic elements of Omani design decorate the hotel: hand painted junipers, copper ornaments, fort-like doors of solid wood and traditional pottery.

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Signature features such as these can be found throughout the hotel. Even with modern facilities and extraordinary levels of attention to detail, it is Alila’s savvy ability to integrate rich cultural influences to heighten the guest’s experience. A walk through the lobby immerses visitors in village life; a traditional majlis invites a moment of zen, while rose pattern work pays homage to the damask roses endemic to the region’s Wadis. Outside, the bubbling aflaj water system creates a meditative ambience for those enjoying some quiet time on the terrace.

A Perfect Pairing

While the rocky terrain offers dramatic jaw dropping views, it’s easy to cast Jabal Akhdar as appearing quite barren on first impression. In fact, it’s the complete opposite: standing just a thousand feet from the highest point in all of Eastern Arabia, Jabal Akhdar receives around 300 mm of rainfall annually. The moist Mediterranean climate lends itself to the region’s ‘green’ status where pomegranates, figs, walnuts and the famous damask rose have been harvested for centuries.

building material during construction, Alila’s green initiatives include innovative water treatment facilities for use in irrigation and landscaping, energy saving lighting and thermal control systems and solar paneling. The hotel’s concierge team stresses the importance of this last design element, which is used to heat 60-70% of the hotels hot water supply; an insight that enhances any rain shower experience in our opinion.

A Surprise Awaits

While the five star resort may register to some as yet another addition to the high end tourist destinations in the Gulf, Alila Jabal Akhdar re-interprets such a designation for the well oiled eco-traveller. The guiding principles of the hotel ultimately rest on its ethos of responsibility and an ability to create emotional memories.

The refreshingly cooler climate serves as a much-needed reprieve from the desert heat

Alila’s stance on sustainable tourism makes it the perfect fit for the area recently designated a natural reserve by the Sultanate of Oman. In support of sustainable tourism, Alila hotels adopt EarthCheck operating standards, integrating the natural, physical and cultural elements of their environments.

The peaceful design is all in accordance with international LEED design principles. Developed by the Oman Tourism Development Company SAOC (Omran), the hotel is the first in the country to receive such certification, rating Silver for its achievements in green building. The eco chic boutique embeds sustainable practices without a blip to the overall levels of comfort. In addition to incorporating a re-use policy for local

As we enter our Mountain View suite at dusk, tired from our journey, Alila does just that, awakening our earlier excitement with a ready personalized bath of milk and roses. Rose essential oils, rose water, virgin coconut oil and a whole milk infusion awaits us in a 800 kg single piece stone bath – we’re left sighing ‘Shukran jazeelan’ as we sink in, a naughty bite of delicious chocolate cake already devoured.

Dining & Adventure

After a deeply reviving sleep and greetings from a gorgeous sunrise on Alila’s balcony, a new day is approached with excitement. Breakfast is a mix of staples and Arabic delights at all around dining destination Juniper Restaurant. The buffet area offers a delightful array of buttery pastries as well as fresh and dried fruits, nuts, juices and granola while the la Carte selections boasts tempting seasonal produce and locally sourced ingredients.

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For those seeking adventure, it’s necessary to tuck in; you will need the energy. The resort’s knowledgeable Leisure Concierges are an invaluable resource, crafting one of a kind moments for nature lovers. A glance through the Signature Alila Experiences menu reveals the mountain is much more than an ethereal backdrop. Indeed, authentic destination geared excursions are meant to connect us to the region’s vibrant heritage. Guests can participate in a variety of hikes, wander through fruit groves and rose terraces, visit Omani Forts and Castles or even dabble in cooking classes. Here is where the ‘surprisingly different’ philosophy shines best.

to soak our worries away at the hands of our smiling therapist. Opting for a Balinese Massage, expert hands practiced at this tension dissolving ancient ritual quickly relieve and unravel our stresses. The aromas of virgin coconut, sweet almond and kukui nut used in the oils fill our little sanctuary.

Rich in healing, nutritive and aromatherapeutic qualities, the spa’s treatment products are all natural and organic.

Guests can participate in a variety of hikes, wander through fruit groves and rose terraces, visit Omani Forts and Castles or even dabble in cooking classes

After an afternoon of cultural immersion, it’s back to Juniper for a gorgeous star-lit supper. The terrace at Juniper buzzes with renewed energy come dinner. The exceptionally hardy menu inspired by the golden age of Arabic cuisine is influenced by trade routes stretching across the Middle East to the Mediterranean. Lovers of Arabic mezzes, meats, and seafood platters can still enjoy a variety of cuisines, including those of the desert variety, where gluten free options are on offer. Eluxe tucks into a colorful mixed salad of lettuce with Omani pomegranates and Feta cheese, enhanced with mountain Honey vinaigrette. It’s a true fusion of flavours for the main as well: North African inspired beef tagine braised with orange, carrots, celery, raisin, and olive couscous. The dish is absolutely spectacular.

Spa Time

Down time at Spa Alila begins with ginger and zaatar infused tea. It’s time

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In fact, the hotel’s own product range ‘Alila Living’ is free from parabens, sodium laurel sulphate, petrochemicals, synthetic substances, and artificial colours and fragrances. The natural range includes therapeutic skin care products for both him and her, from massage oils and body scrubs to body milk, lip balm, facial toners and natural insect repellent, and everything is available to buy in the spa.

The offerings are tempting, and we picked up a few to try to replicate our spa experience at home. But you needn’t purchase anything to remember your trip to the Jabal Akhdar: “Our goal is to send our guests home with spiritual and emotional memories, not just souvenirs,” say Alila President Mark Edleson. And it’s exactly those memories--of the yawning canyon at dawn, of the reconnection to our natural surroundings and a greater appreciation for the world around us--that made the journey so spectacular.

For more information or to book, please visit: www.alilahotels.com/jabalakhdar

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Rich in healing, nutritive and aromatherapeutic qualities, the spa’s treatment products are all natural and organic

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ART

Steve McPhearson’s

Plastic Arts Searching for seashells was once a happy beachcombing pastime. Today, you’re just as likely to find bottle caps and plastic bags as you are winkles and starfish, as artist Steve McPherson points out with his unique artwork.

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ustenance, seashells and salt water—many wonderful things come from the sea. But unfortunately, modern living means that plastic waste has also been added to that list.

To draw attention to this issue, British artist Steve McPherson has created works that are made up solely from the plastic detritus of life, presented as evidence that no matter how hard we may try to dispose of plastic responsibly, we are all likely contributors to this new tide of trash.

McPherson is an artist and lecturer whose practice includes installations, sculptural objects, book works, collections, assemblage, collage, photography, video and sound. His work has been widely exhibited to wild acclaim throughout the UK, Europe and America.

In 2015 his latest show, which employs found marine plastics of all shapes, colours and origins, was exhibited during the Biennale Internationale Design Saint-Etienne 2015, France.

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224 Tags, 2015 Found objects

The found, unaltered plastic objects McPherson uses in his artworks represent our relationship with this ubiquitous material and its growing position as a significant environmental problem. These lost objects connect us through the borderless sea to others on their own shores, “The sea is local and global” says McPherson. “The works highlight the problem of the amount of debris in the sea and brings into question the effect this may be having on the environment, animal and human life.”

“But the main question that surfaces not only in myself but in the viewer is why, why is it there at all? And we start to retrace the journey of the objects existence on the beach through our own human experience. If we do this the line goes back beyond its consumption, it’s design and its

manufacture to the sourcing of its raw material, back to the earth, back to the environment, through the hands of thousands. “ The artist’s arrangement of these unadulterated objects is widely varied, riffing on pop references like Damien Hirst’s iconic Dot series and the Death Star in Star Wars to classical mosaics.

The common, the mysterious, the unusual, the forgotten and the lost: these plastic objects, which have symbolise the history of the world up to this point; they represent a contemporary problem and future archaeology.

Whether you find you find McPherson’s work sad or beautiful or a bit of both, it is certainly a powerful artistic representation of the impact human consumption has — and will continue to have on — the natural world. E

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ECO-AUTO

S is for Sleek, Sexy and

Sustainable Introducing the Tesla Model S

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esla has recently launched in the Gulf, to much acclaim. It was previously believed that electric cars were only for hippies, and were certainly not slick and fast enough for petrolheads in the place where (most) petrol originates. But Tesla Ludicrous Mode wipes all those misperceptions away.

Even before this newest development, Tesla’s Model S was just about a perfect vehicle: a marvel of eco-friendly engineering and performance and an aesthetic triumph. Obviously, none of that has changed.

Custom options abound, but the tricked-out P85D version offers supreme satisfaction. The powertrain boasts dual motors—259hp in the front, 503hp in the rear—running on an 85kWh lithium-ion battery, producing 713 lb-ft of motor torque, a top speed of 250kph and a range of 405km. Gasless and emission-free, of course. (Upgrading to a 90kWh battery increases the car’s range by six percent.) All-wheel drive makes the Model S lighter, smaller and more efficient than its rear-wheel counterpart, with better traction and acceleration.

Why’s it called Model S? Perhaps because it’s a sleek, sexy, sustainable ride. Its aerodynamic form—even the door handles retract—isn’t just eye candy; it helps reduce drag, thus maximizing battery range.

The Model S is also among the safest road cars, posting five-star ratings in all National Highway Traffic Safety Administration crash-test categories.

The vehicle’s low centre of gravity enhances handling and minimizes rollover potential, while front and rear occupants enjoy the protection of eight airbags.

Another nifty perk is Autopilot mode, equally operable on open roads or in dense traffic. Several capabilities enable this feature, including radar, 360 degrees of sonar sensors, real-time traffic updates, a forward-looking camera and monitors recognizing pedestrians, stop signs, traffic signals and unintentional lane changes. Additionally, autopilot mode now utilizes auto emergency braking and blind spot warning, and even detects parking spots and auto-parks the car. Frequent software updates add new tricks as they become available.

Which brings us to a relevant concern. With connectivity—the Model S offers wifi and Internet—comes the rising risk of hacking. But rest assured.

Contrary to recent media reports of vehicle hacking (see Fiat Chrysler, Jeep Cherokee), Tesla is one of the most secure vehicles on the market.

And that Ludicrous Mode? Basically it’s an extension of Insane Mode, and costs an extra ten grand to upgrade. The bottom line is a ten percent improvement in acceleration, up to 1.1G’s of power, such that the Model S goes from zero to 100kph in 3 seconds—in theory, at least. A skeptical Consumer Report story suggests that the vehicle only achieved 0–60mph in 3.5 seconds in testing.

Which still makes it fast enough for the freakiest Gulf-driving speed freak.

E Fasten your seatbelts! The Tesla Model S is about to take off.

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ASTROLOGY

Astrological Forecast for the Last Quarter of 2015 In this new feature, our astrologer Claudia Vannini reads the stars each quarter, making predictions that affect us all, no matter what our sign or where we live.

October: There’s a bit of joy in October, thanks to Jupiter tying in with Pluto. Hopes will be renewed, debts will be paid, finances reorganised and companies will earn more profits. Stock markets will see more positive movements, and this is the right time to make investments.

People band together for the common good, be it by helping those in need or uniting towards a common goal.

November and December: These months are affected by two very contradictory planets. Saturn, always stuck in stark reality, squares off with Neptune, the planet of idealism and fantasy. At this point, we must all abandon some hopes and dreams to face a reality and pay the price for our misdeeds in the past. It is a heavy and expected change, as previous phases of self-deception created a world of lies and fantasy that resulted in conflict governed by the planet of war, Mars.

The good news comes from Jupiter in Virgo, which remains in place until September 2016. This astrological transition gives us the opportunity to get hyper-focused on details. Everyone is more of a perfectionist at work and this can be great for collective growth. Self confidence, skills and lucky breaks will also result from this transition, especially if you get rid of the old and simplify your life. Self-improvement, ethically minded businesses, environmental solutions and pest and disease control all profit from this planetary alignment.

December: This month is unfortunately affected by the clash between Uranus and Pluto which began in 2012 and has been bringing violence with it ever since. It's a tense month in which more violent conflicts can arise, especially between December 5th and 12th. Saturn is in Sagittarius during this last three months, and as Sagittarius is ruled by Jupiter, the mythic god of the feast, this is quite a contrast to self-disciplined Saturn.

So while Saturn is moving through Sagittarius, we'll have time to rethink the issues that really matter: who are we? What do we believe in? Where are we going? Some dear hopes will be mixed with a heavy dash of reality.

Will 2015 be the best end of the year we ever had?

Certainly not. We are dealing with profound issues that have been ignored for decades. Will we come out of it all stronger? Yes, since this is our opportunity for collective change and to create a better world. There is no place for selfishness in the new Era. Those who insist on moving selfishly, unilaterally ahead will be doomed to live in isolation, constantly struggling with those around them rather than working together in harmony. This is true for individuals of course, but also companies and governments. May E the year’s end bring harmony and peace to your life. NAMASTE

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EVENTS

Yves Saint Laurent at the Bowes Museum A guest admiring Yves Saint Laurent’s work

The Bowes Museum and the Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent have collaborated to create Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal, the first exhibition in the UK to present a comprehensive display of the French fashion designer’s work and life. The launch for the YSL show highlighted the defining elements of his vision, and the significant influence it has had on fashion and the way we understand womenswear.

Hot Chip DJ Set Sarah Jones and Felix Martin

Pierre Berger

Andy Barnham

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Inside Amato Fashion News Live host and producer Rocco Leo Gaglioti unveiled his first film, Inside Amato, atthe Art Hearts Fashion on September 16, at the Liberty Theatre. The film takes us behind the scenes in an exclusive, intimate look inside the fashion house of Amato Haute Couture. Amato Haute Couture’s Furne One, designer for some of the biggest names in Hollywood and some of the richest women in the world. Dressing celebrities such as Beyoncé, Katy Perry, and Jennifer Lopez, Furne One has cemented his reputation as being one of the most sought after designers for providing one-of-a-kind designs for Red Carpet events such as the Oscars, the Grammy’s and the Golden Globes.

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CONSPICUOUS STUPIDITY You know how when you use playing cards a lot, they get kind of dirty and worn? Well, if you’re really into shoving your bling right in the face of your cardgame companions, we have just the solution: 24k gold plated cards. Personally, we think that anyone who would rather spend their money on this rather than perhaps donating a bit more to charity or investing in their children’s future, could well be, as theyInline image 2Inline image 1 say, “a few cards short of a full deck.”

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