January/February 2016 River City Magazine

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NEIGHBORHOODS MUSEUM DISTRICT

LEGENDS & LEGACIES

ELLEN GLASGOW - WOMEN WRITERS

RAISING THE BAR BRUNCH COCKTAILS

RiverCity y p p a H r u o H e d i u G

TASTEBUDZ N O I S N A P X E Y T MEA S E V A F D N O RICHM


to all of the wonderful families that have allowed me to be of assistance in 2015. You have made it a truly wonderful year.

2015 Sales

If you or anyone you know needs help buying or selling a home in 2016 don’t hesitate to give me a call.Â

Cell: (804) 536-6100 Office: (804) 545-4128 Fax: (804) 545-4129

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Jared@CentralVARealty.com 11551-D Nuckols Road, Glen Allen, VA 23059


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www.RichmondGov.com

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RiverCity JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016

RAISING THE BAR LET’S DO BRUNCH COCKTAILS

RichmondNavigator.com PRESIDENT // PUBLISHER

William J. Davis, Jr. VICE-PRESIDENT // PUBLISHER

Cheryl T. Davis MANAGING EDITOR

Annie Tobey FOOD EDITOR

Steve Cook ASSISTANT EDITOR

Tammie Wersinger CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Taylor Esteves-Pearce

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LEGENDS & LEGACIES RICHMOND WOMEN WRITERS

BACKSTAGE CLAIR MORGAN, MOVING FAST & FAR

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Tara Bouldin-Evans ADVERTISING CONSULTANT

Jared Davis ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES

Beverly Montsinger, Jenny Price DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

Jimmy Davis PHOTOGRAPHERS

Robert Thomas, Joey Wharton CONTRIBUTORS

Davy Jones, Rachel Marsh ADVERTISING

In This Issue 04

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Richmond’s Museum District

Appetizer & Drink Specials

NEIGHBORHOODS

HAPPY HOUR GUIDE

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17

News from Richmond’s Dining Scene

JM Stock Provisions at Harvest

TASTEBUDZ

A MEATY EXPANSION

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Contact Us! E: Info@RichmondNavigator.com All rights reserved. Any reproduction in whole or in part of any text, photograph or illustration without written permission from the publisher is prohibited.

All articles and contents of this magazine are not necessarily the opinions or thoughts of RiverCity magazine, Advertising Concepts, Inc or the publisher. About Our Cover: Cocktails at The Daily Kitchen and Bar, served with a smile. Bartender: Katie Wooten. Photo by Robert Thomas.

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RICHMOND’S MUSEUM DISTRICT WHERE HISTORY AND ART COME TOGETHER PHOTOS BY ROBERT THOMAS

By Steve Cook

“The Museum District is part of the mosaic that makes Richmond a beautiful tapestry,” said real estate developer Bedros Bandazian, who has spent nearly thirty years in buying, selling and managing properties in this unique River City neighborhood. Referring to his assessment that the city is made up of several diverse neighborhoods, each beautiful in its own way, Bandazian said, “Richmond is more of an Oriental rug than wall-to-wall carpeting.”

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I’d never looked at it that way, but he is right on point with the analogy. The term “Museum District” is fairly recent. In times past, it was known to many as simply “West of the Boulevard,” an apt description for a community that runs roughly from the Boulevard west to Interstate 195. To its north, the district is bordered by Broad Street, and to the south, it runs up to Carytown . When we hear someone speak of the Museum District, it may inspire thoughts of a sophisticated, lovely little part of town that offers a host of cultural activities as well as fine dining. But the neighborhood has not always enjoyed such an excellent reputation. It was only about fifteen years ago that at least one area in the neighborhood was known as the Devil’s Triangle. “That’s because this was a rough area of town,” explained Dave Bender, owner of Caliente, a popular restaurant at the corner Park and Sheppard streets (in the heart of said Devil’s Triangle). Bender said that the building he occupies used to be known as Felix’s. “Across the street were Café 21 and the Ritz,” he said, describing all three places as “seedy bars on a street filled with graffiti, an occasional used needle [drug paraphernalia] and frequent fights.” That was just a little over a decade ago, and things have changed dramatically, said Bender. Today, his restaurants as well as others that have replaced the seedy bars all do a brisk dinner business. “Most of our regulars are from the neighborhood,” he said. The demographics of the neighborhood have changed as well. Bedros Bandazian said that the average income is much higher than what was anticipated when the Museum District began to experience a rebirth of sorts within the past couple of decades. “A large percentage of residents,” Bandazian said, “are white-collar management.” Bandazian explained that while the demand is still high for singlefamily homes, condominiums have also become popular, with many developers converting old apartments into condos. Carter Snipes of Snipes Properties agrees. He is developing properties in the Museum District, single-family townhomes as well as duplexes. He told me, “The Museum District continues to see growth from 25- to 35-yearold residents moving into the area, and there is strong demand for new construction single-family homes.” What is the appeal of the neighborhood? Dale Barta, who manages the Franklin Inn, a popular restaurant located at Franklin and Cleveland streets, said, “The neighborhood has a small town feel.” Barta, who also lives in the area, said, “It has always felt like a village to me.” She added that what makes the neighborhood so appealing is that while you have the small-town feel, you’re still in close proximity to all the amenities that the city has to offer. 6 RiverCity

It’s interesting that she describes the Museum District as a village, because in an earlier incarnation (going back to about 1815), the neighborhood was slated to be not a part of Richmond’s West End but on the western end of a village named Sydney. That project sizzled and burned before it got off the ground. But the original planners of Sydney mapped out their concept for a pattern of streets that fanned out from Monroe Park west. It was that plan that later became the inspiration for the grid that now makes up Richmond’s Fan District. Sydney never materialized, and for many decades the area that today encompasses the Museum District was primarily used for agricultural purposes, with a few scattered farmhouses dotting the landscape.


JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016

One of those early (but not-so-small) farmhouses still stands on the grounds of the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA). It’s the Robinson House. Built in the mid-1850s by Anthony Robinson Jr., the home may not strike you as being a typical farmhouse. True, since its original construction, a third story and a cupola have been added, but even from its beginning, the Robinson House was designed to reflect a fashionable Italianate style. About a decade after its construction, in April 1865, Robinson’s widow struck a deal with Union soldiers who were on the verge of completing their assault on the Confederacy’s capital. The end of the war was at hand. Rebecca Robinson invited the Union troops to occupy the home in exchange for protection from looting. In 1883, the Robinsons’ son, Channing, sold the home and 36 adjacent acres to establish a home for Confederate soldiers. From the time the home opened its doors in January 1885 until 1941, the land on which the VMFA sits was the site of a complex designed to house poor and infirm veterans of the Civil War. The R. E. Lee Camp No. 1, the first permanent Confederate veterans’ organization in the United States, established the facility. The Robinson home was used as the headquarters for this facility. There was also a Civil War museum in the home, which had been renamed Fleming Hall. This is, perhaps, the first museum in what much later came to be called the Museum District. Although the veterans home remained in operation until the last Confederate veteran died in 1941, in the early thirties a portion of the property was given to provide space for the construction of a museum that was to serve as the state’s flagship art museum. In 1936, the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts opened its doors. Despite the fact that Richmond, as well as the rest of the nation, was in the midst of the Depression, both political and business leaders had come together to create this institution as a headquarter for an educational network that would bring the best of world art, past and present, to every corner of the commonwealth. Due to continued growth through acquisitions and the generous donations from such prominent Virginia families as the Lewises, Robins, Cochranes and the Mellons, the museum has experienced transformation and growth. In May 2010, the museum completed the largest expansion project in its history, adding more than 165,000 square feet to its existing 380,00 square feet. The 13.5-acre complex also houses the E. Claiborne and Lora Robins Sculpture Garden, which is used to display outdoor works from the museum’s collection, and which also features a reflecting pool and waterfall, plus a

beautifully landscaped, terraced slope. Today, the museum and its gardens serve as a gathering place for residents of the neighborhood as well as the entire Richmond metro area to enjoy special performances, weekly jazz events, wine tastings and other cultural activities. When you see hundreds of folks strolling the museum grounds, walking their dogs, picnicking on the lawn and listening to live musical performances, it’s hard to imagine that about a century before there were nearly 300 residents living at the Confederate Home, on these same grounds. The facilities included a hospital, plus a mess hall, print shop, a recreation center and other support buildings. It was during the time that the population at the home was at its peak (1912) and just a few yards north on the Boulevard that the Confederate Memorial Association began construction of a shrine to the Confederate dead. Charles Broadway Rouss, a Virginia war veteran, who had after the war made a fortune in New York, contributed $100,000 towards the project. In a fundraising campaign, Rouss referred to the memorial as the “Battle Abbey of the South.” The name stuck. Officially, it was the Confederate Memorial Institute, but even today, many refer to the building as the Battle Abbey. In 1946, the Confederate Memorial Association merged with the Virginia Historical Society (VHS). Until an expansion of the building on the Boulevard in 1959, the VHS maintained separate exhibition facilities. In 1959, these facilities combined at 428 N. Boulevard. The VHS has continued to both expand its space and enlarge its collections. Today it occupies 200,000 square feet of space. While the name Virginia Historical Society may be somewhat misleading, make no mistake about it, this is a wonderful museum, dedicated to showcasing Virginia’s fascinating history, from prehistoric times to the present. Their website provides a wealth of information pertaining to permanent and temporary exhibits as well as upcoming tours, family activities, seminars and other entertaining and educational programs. The VMFA and the VHS not only provide the basis for the name of the neighborhood, they also make it a destination not just for Richmonders but for tourists from around the state, around the nation and around the globe. Throw in excellent dining, beautiful architecture, tree-lined streets and sidewalks and you have the makings for a great place to visit. But for those who call the Museum District home, it’s much more than that. Perhaps Dale Barta of the Franklin Inn said it best: “It’s the friendliest neighborhood in Richmond.” Virginia Museum of Fine Arts – 200 N. Boulevard; 804-340-1400; VMFA.museum Virginia Historical Society – 428 N. Boulevard; 804-358-4901; VaHistorical.org RC

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LEGENDS AND LEGACIES RICHMOND WOMEN WRITERS

By Rachel Marsh

PORTRAIT OF ELLEN GLASGOW, BY AIMÉ DUPONT

T

hroughout history, Richmond has been revered as the birthplace of Edgar Allen Poe, Arthur Ashe, Maggie Walker and American Idol runner up Elliot Yamin. But not many realize its ability to produce triumphant female writers as well. Among the most esteemed, Ellen Glasgow was born in Richmond in 1873. Now a legendary novelist, she grew up during a time when women were nothing more than meal makers and child producers. She struggled to find her place in society, particularly into adulthood, working to break free of the patriarchal expectations set upon her. As a fiery writer and fierce feminist, Glasgow was bold enough to produce a unique perspective on current domestic values. But it wasn’t necessarily a popular opinion, and she in fact wrote her first book, The Descendant, anonymously. From there, her progressive beliefs became more prominent in her writing. Through her novels and poems, she exposed the unfairness of women’s roles, often depicting characters rebelling against the extreme gender stereotypes placed upon them. Many of her most noteworthy novels, such as They Stooped to Folly and The Sheltered Life, used a satirical lens to depict strong female characters rising up against oppressive societal expectations. After more than 20 published novels and an ongoing successful career, she died in 1945. But the good news is, Richmond didn’t stop producing great female writers after Ellen Glasgow. And luckily, in 2015, you don’t 8 RiverCity

have to be a squelched feminist to succeed as a writer in Virginia. With so much talent soaking local pages, and as an aspiring writer myself, I checked in with some of our local finest for some insight on what it takes to succeed in this business. I first tapped the brain of Rebekah Pierce, local teacher and playwright. Pierce obtained a BA and an MA in English to pursue her lifelong passion for literature. After graduating, Pierce found a job teaching in public schools. Then in 2003, she took a bold leap of faith and launched Average Girl Magazine, a Richmond-based magazine dedicated to support and motivate local women. Because Pierce had lost her cousin from domestic abuse, she wanted to give women a hub to strengthen their own voices and connect with one another. In a world consistently inundating individuals with negative selfbody images and unrealistic ideas of perfection, Average Girl REBEKAH PIERCE, LOCAL TEACHER AND PLAYWRIGHT sought to provide females with empowering resources and stories. See, I told you Richmond is still generating passionately outspoken women. After years successfully managing her own magazine, Pierce began focusing on other writing outlets. She dedicated herself to her career as a playwright, aiming high and donning an “I want Broadway” attitude. But in 2008, when an opportunity appeared to turn one of her plays into a film, she nearly rejected it. “At first, I turned my nose up at the idea. ‘I’m a playwright,’ I said … Then, I felt convicted because here I was asking for this gift called writing – storytelling – and I was turning down an opportunity to see my work through another medium just because I had assigned my vision of my gift to one thing.” She now partners with a local filmmaker and advises writers, new and old, to maintain an open mind. “Be open to opportunities and the bigger picture; get rid of the ego because it’s not always about you.” The next renowned female writer I looked into is Karri Peifer. Peifer started writing early on, her first “official” gig beginning at her high school newspaper. Once she realized that she wanted to make writing a profession, she wrote as much as she could. She began as a website freelancer (“Emphasis on the word free,” she told me) and slowly built her career from there. Initially, she just aimed to get her name published, which eventually led to paid freelance work. “I stuck with it. I knew what I wanted to do and I kept doing it until I could make it my full-time job.” Like the young and aspiring Glasgow, whose voice would never have been noticed without her determination, Peifer emphasizes the importance of persistence. Ultimately landing a job as the deputy web editor for the Richmond Times-Dispatch, Peifer loves


the variety that her job provides. In fact, if her name looks familiar, you’ve likely read one of her articles about an on-the-rise, brand-new or currently popular Richmond restaurant. But aside from perseverance, her other advice for up-and-coming writers is, well … write. “The more you do it, the better you get. If you’re any good – and it’s hard not to be good at a thing you love and are willing to work at – someone will eventually pay you.” Well, my final literature exploration took me to longtime screenplay writer Helene Wagner. Wagner has been involved in the screenwriters’ scene since the early part of her career. She worked as a Writers Guild Literary Agent and founded and served as the director for the Virginia Screenwriters Forum – this year celebrating its 25th anniversary. Wagner began to seriously delve into her career as a writer when she signed up for a creative writing class in Texas in 1981. From there, she continued taking writing classes and creating plays and screenplays. Even as someone who struggled with dyslexia, Wagner didn’t let anything deter her from her passion (although she did send up a myriad of thanks to the technology gods for the invention of spell check). Though she knows how difficult it is to break into the writing business, she asserts

KARRI PEIFER, RICHMOND.COM DEPUTY EDITOR AND RICHMOND TIMESDISPATCH RESTAURANT NEWS COLUMNIST

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016

that determination and self-confidence are two of the most important factors. Her best advice is to get as involved as possible. Which is, perhaps, how six of her multiple screenplays ended up optioned by major Hollywood production companies, one of which was cast for CBS. So, yeah, Richmond houses a lot of creative talent, and this just scratches the surface! In a city becoming more and more known for breweries, bikers and tattoos, it’s nice to know that Richmond is still, in many ways, sticking to its roots.

HELENE WAGNER, SCREENPLAY WRITER

Richmond writers, both men and women, find support, encouragement, inspiration and education at James River Writers. The nonprofit offers a variety of programs for aspiring and professional writers. Learn more at JamesRiverWriters.org.

RC

RaiseThe Bar

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016

LET’S DO BRUNCH COCKTAILS By Steve Cook

ROBERT THOMAS

“Richmonders love to get their brunch on,”

said Dave Bender, owner of Caliente Restaurant. He should know. He’s been serving up some delicious brunches for nearly a dozen years. Just why is brunch so popular around the River City? Personally, I’ve always been of the opinion that brunch was invented to give folks an excuse to have a drink before noon. When River City photographer Robert Thomas and I visited three of the city’s top brunch spots recently, my theory was somewhat proven true. In fact, one of the bartenders told me that ours is such a great brunch city because “Richmond is a drinking town.” Each restaurant we visited for this edition of Raising the Bar definitely has its fair share of specialty brunch cocktails. Of course, Bloody Marys and Mimosas are a mainstay, but we also had the opportunity to sample some other delicious concoctions, along with some quite delectable dishes.

THE DAILY KITCHEN & BAR DRINK: "THE PAMA"

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LUNCH. | SUPPER! 1213-1215 E. Summit Ave.; 804-353-0111; LunchOrSupper.com

Just to clarify any confusion about the name, Lunch. | Supper! is really two restaurants. They share the same owners and virtually the same menus. At Lunch. you can also have breakfast. Both offer brunch from 10 a.m. till 3 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. Katie Elmore, one of the servers/bartenders, told me that brunch at Lunch. | Supper! is very popular. “We get slammed,” she said. But the crowds just add to the fun at this casual Scott’s Addition eatery. Before the Supper! side was opened, there really wasn’t much of a bar in the small building that housed Lunch. Now, with an expanded bar, the cocktails, while not overshadowing the fantastic food, certainly have become a more important element of the entire experience. We were served a not-so-traditional Bloody Mary. First, Lunch. | Supper! uses Richmond’s own Texas Beach craft Bloody Mary mix. That alone results in one of the best Bloody Marys I’ve tasted in quite a while. The restaurant calls their version The Kitchen Sink. It’s served with a skewer loaded with roast beef, bacon, pepperoncini, pimento-stuffed olives and a lime. The drink is almost a meal in itself. If you like your Bloody Mary with a kick, this one’s got it. Take my advice and ask for a big glass of ice water on the side. We chowed down on what is, perhaps, the most popular breakfast/brunch dish in the place, the Train Wreck. “It’s amazing,” Elmore had promised me. She was right. There’s enough food on the plate to feed an army, or at least a couple of hungry brunchers. The dish consists of two homemade biscuits topped with sausage and eggs and smothered in sausage gravy. It’s a stick-toyour-ribs sort of meal. I had never tried the Train Wreck before. My go-to brunch at Lunch. | Supper! is The Last Stand, featuring seasoned pulled pork, scrambled eggs, onions, peppers and mixed cheese rolled in a tortilla and topped with sour cream and salsa. Omelets, soups, sandwiches and salads are also available on the brunch menu.

CALIENTE

2922 Park Ave; 804-340-2920; CalienteRichmond.com Over in the Devil’s Triangle (see this month’s Museum District article to find out the origin of that name) sits one of the city’s hottest restaurants. I’m talking about the tastes coming out of the kitchen at Caliente. They’re best known for their hot wings. I mean, these wings are so hot, they call ’em “stupid wings.” But the brunch is also a big draw. Served from 10:30 a.m. till 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, the Caliente brunch menu offers a variety of Cajun-inspired dishes as well as foods that one might typically find in the warmer climes. The portions are ginormous. We sampled both the Cowboy Chili Breakfast and the Huevos Rancheros. The Cowboy features three scrambled eggs over Texas toast, covered with a generous ladle of the house chili and topped with melted cheese. The latter dish consists of tortilla chips, potatoes, refried black beans, eggs and cheese. Other items include Eggs Benedict as well as Pulled Pork Benedict. The Hangtown Fry, featuring eggs pan-scrambled with oysters, onions, peppers and Gouda, is also quite popular. And, of course, there are the wings, with your choice of sauces and offered with less heat than the “stupid” ones. “We sell a lot of wings, especially on football Sundays,” Dave Bender told me. For our brunch cocktail, we had a drink called the Wilson. Bender explained the name: “We have a regular customer named Wilson, who for years made the comment, ‘You’ve never made it till your

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name’s on the menu somewhere.’ After too many years, we named the drink after him. I told him, ‘Shut up. Your name’s on the menu.’ He ordered that drink regularly until we named the drink for him. After that, he never ordered it again.” The Wilson is a cocktail that I would order again. It’s very drinkable, featuring Stoli Raspberry vodka, club soda and a splash of cranberry juice.


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THE DAILY KITCHEN AND BAR 2934 W Cary St.; 804-342-8990; TheDailyKitchenAndBar.com

The Daily has certainly proven to be one of Carytown’s most popular new restaurants. So popular, in fact, that coowner Jared Golden recently announced plans to open a second location in Short Pump. “Our goal is to offer delicious foods that won’t break your budget or your waistline,” said the general manager, Jimi Foster. With an emphasis on organic, all-natural, local and sustainable ingredients, The Daily has found its niche among the health conscious. Of course, while we all like to consider ourselves somewhat health conscious, as well as environmentally responsible, the place is succeeding primarily because the food is quite good. I was especially enamored with our brunch item, the Crab

Cake Benedict. This reasonably priced dish (in my humble and somewhat cheapskate opinion) features two very tasty crab cakes on an English muffin, served with grilled asparagus, citrus hollandaise and hash browns. The Pama champagne cocktail that accompanied our meal was excellent. Featuring both Pama pomegranate liqueur and Solerno blood orange liqueur along with Prosecco and fresh orange juice, the drink paired beautifully with the dish and proved quite refreshing. You might even say seductively refreshing. Check The Daily’s menu online for a rundown on the wide variety of both brunch cocktails and mocktails. Now, we hope you’re ready to go get your brunch on. Remember to enjoy and, of course, to always drink responsibly.

A TASTE OF THE BEACH While River City bartenders have produced a wide variety of excellent brunch cocktails, admittedly, the Bloody Mary is the drink most frequently associated with brunch. So we figured this might be a good time to tell you about the guys who created Texas Beach Bloody Mary mix. As we mentioned in connection with our visit to Lunch. | Supper!, the mix comes from a local company, started by two college buddies, Greg White and Austin Green. I spoke with White recently and asked him to tell me the genesis of their product. “We wanted to create a Bloody Mary mix that we would personally enjoy drinking,” he told me, “something that was both savory and spicy. We wanted it to mix well with vodka or gin, but with no additional ingredients necessary.” White says he and Green kicked the idea around for a few months, but once they got down to the business of creating a recipe, it took them about six months to come up with the mix they wanted. They started the company in May 2014 and went into production on Nov. 28 of last year. In March of this year, they brought in Rob Wooten as a third partner. Wooten is responsible for creating their branding. “Rob designed our logo,” said White. A local tattoo artist, best known in the industry as Brad D, did the actual artwork. With just a little over a year under its belt, Texas Beach is already available in over 75 locations in Richmond, Charlottesville and Hampton Roads. “And,” said White, “we’re moving into Northern Virginia and D.C. Big things are coming.” Among those “big things” are plans to open a manufacturing facility here in Richmond to supplement the contract packer in Virginia Beach that they are currently using for production and bottling. White said the company will soon be introducing a kimchi Bloody Mary mix as well. “We’re also working on a hot dog,” he told me. A Bloody Mary hot dog sounds pretty tasty to me. Hold the mayo. To learn more about the company, including the origin of the name, check their website, TexasBeachBloodyMary.com. RC

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tastebudz

It’s almost impossible to keep up with the River City’s vibrant dining scene. But we’ll give it a try. TAKING IT TO THE STREET AND THE ROOFTOP

When real estate developers Carter and Annie Snipes purchased the old Hofheimer Building at 2816 W. Broad St. (long the home of Adams Camera Shop) early last year, they billed the site as “the next hottest address in RVA.” It appears that wasn’t just hype. Carter said he and his wife recognized that the space would be excellent for development as a restaurant. Almost immediately after beginning to market the property, acclaimed restaurateur/chef Peter Chang began to take an interest in the location. Chang already operates his eponymous restaurant in Short Pump. Come spring, he will be opening on the ground floor at this hot address in Scott’s Addition. Carter and Annie Snipes also recognized the potential of the rooftop of this iconic building as an ideal spot for private events. Just days ago, it was announced that Mosaic Catering + Events will be managing the rooftop as well as a former ballroom on the second floor as event space. This is going to be cool. According to Carter Snipes, there is still additional space on the ground floor for use as a restaurant or retail. “The available site will share the rooftop,” Carter said.

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ANOTHER ADDITION IN SCOTT’S ADDITION: While we’re talking about Scott’s Addition, let me just say that I share the excitement of those who welcomed the recent news that Charlottesville’s Three Notch’d Brewing Company will be opening a tasting room there this spring. Check the website to learn more about their interesting lineup of beers (ThreeNotchdBrewing.com). I’m anxious to try their Biggie S’mores Imperial Stout, made, they say, with 80 boxes of Honey Maid graham crackers. WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE HILL: When I was speaking with Carter Snipes, he mentioned that he and his wife have recently purchased a property in Church Hill near 23rd and Clay streets, which they intend to develop for both residential and restaurant use. We’ll keep you up to date on that as it develops. In other news from the Hill, I ran into Benyam Teklemariam recently. He and his brother, Yoseph, as you probably know, are in the process of securing a new location in which to offer their popular Ethiopian cuisine. When I first met the two young men, they were running the Nile Restaurant in the Fan. A couple of years ago, they relocated to Portrait House in Carytown. Now that Portrait House has changed hands, the brothers have located a spot in Church Hill. Benyam tells me that around March 29, they should be opening at 29th and Broad streets. From what he told me, it looks like the two may have something more in mind than just a restaurant, but I’m sworn to secrecy for the moment. TERRIFIC TACOS: When I discover something new and it’s just that good, I feel I must share it. Well, let me tell you that I recently discovered an amazing taco at Asado – The Wing and Taco Company, located at Broad and Laurel streets. Each Tuesday is Taco Tuesday and one of their fantastic tacos is offered at half price (regular price $5). I had the carnitas. It was excellent. Just a little heads up that may come in handy the next time you get a craving for a taco.

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THE LITTLE BBQ SHOP AROUND THE CORNER: Just around the corner from Asado is the new in-town version of Paul Hubbard’s Deep Run Roadhouse. In mid-December, Paul opened at 309 N. Laurel, which, coincidentally, was the original home of the Nile. “I used to enjoy cooking for young professionals in the city,” Paul said, referring to the days when he first opened the Alamo in Church Hill. “I wanted to go back and cook for that crowd again.” He said the VCU location is a lot smaller than his Roadhouse on Gayton Road in the Far West End. “This is an express version,” he added, “but with the same great food.” Both locations are open from 11 a.m. till 9 p.m., seven days a week. NO RUMOR AT THE INN: You may have heard that one of the city’s best neighborhood hangouts, The Franklin Inn at Franklin and Cleveland streets, was up for sale. Well, it’s been sold and, thankfully, new owner Steve Gooch is as happy with the restaurant keeping its old-time charm as I am. Dale Barta remains at the restaurant as the managing partner and said that with Steve taking a very hands-on approach, she will have more time to devote to promoting the restaurant and planning more events. LATE-NITE LALO’S: Eduardo “Lalo” Mecias is always fine-tuning his popular midtown restaurant, Lalo’s Cocina Bar and Grill at 2617 W. Broad St. In just the past few weeks, he has begun keeping the place open until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. That’s perfect for those who find themselves with a case of midnight munchies. If you’re craving delicious authentic Mexican fare, it’s nice to know where to go. Even if you don’t feel like going out, you can still enjoy the food, because Lalo now delivers. That’s all day every day. THE EARLY BIRD GETS THE FAN: In less than a year and a half from the time he first opened Early Bird Biscuit Co. in Lakeside in July 2014, owner Tim Laxton is moving. I remember the first time I visited there. I had heard tell of his delicious homemade biscuits, and I wanted to try one. I passed the place three times before I could find it. It’s just that tiny. Too tiny, in fact. Tim said from the first week he realized that his concept of offering great biscuits using locally sourced ingredients was more popular than even he had imagined. From the start, there were lines out the door … folks waiting in line to enjoy one of his biscuits with butter and jam or ham or sausage. So Tim is moving to larger quarters. His new location will be at 119 N. Robinson St. in the Fan. He said he hopes to open there in March, after doing a bit of renovation to the site. Early Bird Biscuit Co. will offer an expanded menu, including breakfast sandwiches, in their new digs. “There’ll be plenty of room for guests to sit down and put jam on their biscuit and not have to rush out,” Tim said. He also told me that he’s partnering with Blanchard Coffee to offer full barista service. Still hungry for more restaurant news? Check out TasteBudz online at RichmondNavigator.com. And if you have any restaurant news to share, please email it to us at Tastebudz@RichmondNavigator.com

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H A PPY HOU R G UI D E Franklin Inn

800 Cleveland St., Richmond 804-716-9493 | TheFranklinRVA.com Monday through Friday, 4 to 7 p.m. Rail cocktails - $3 Domestic bottles - $2.50 Pints of Dale’s Pale Ale - $4.50 Mars and Venus Chardonnay and Cabernet - $4 (glass) One More Thing There are special discounts every day: Bourbon Day on Monday, Tequila Tuesday, Wine & Dine Wednesday, Throwback Thursdays (rum) and Bartender’s Favorites on Friday.

Lemaire Restaurant (in the Jefferson Hotel)

101 W. Franklin St.; 804-649-4629; LemaireRestaurant.com Monday, Virginia beer day - $3 & $4 Virginia beer Tuesday, sparkling wine cocktails - $5 Wednesdays, all wines from the Discover list - $15 (bottle) Thursday, classic cocktails - $5 Friday, His and Her Night Manhattans and Cosmos - $5 each Saturday and Sunday, red and white wine - $5 (glass) One More Thing Choose any 3 appetizers for $20 during happy hour

Kobe Japanese Steaks and Sushi

19 S. 13th St.; 804-643-8080; KobeSteaksandSushi.com Monday through Friday, 3 to 6 p.m. Domestic beers - $3 Saké (small) - $3 Select appetizers - $3 (appetizers that are regularly $6 or less) One More Thing Select martinis, including the Love Potion 39, Watermelon and Apple Blossom are $7 all day every day.

Social 52 Kitchen & Craft Bar 2619 W. Main St. 804-353-9709 | Social52RVA.com

Fan Noodle Bar

2301 W. Main St. 804-358-2514 | FanNoodleBar.com Every day, 3:30 to 6 p.m. Draft beers - $3 Chang Thai beer (bottle) -$3 Mojitos - $5 Rail cocktails - $3 One More Thing Ask about select appetizer specials. 16 RiverCity

Monday, 4 to 9 p.m.; Tuesday through Saturday, 4 to 7 p.m. Drafts - $2 off Bud Lite bottles - $2 Rail cocktails - $3 House wines - $3 Social plates and bowls - buy one at regular price, get the second at half price One More Thing Every Wednesday, choose any burger and any 14-oz. Virginia draft for just $10.

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY *All happy hour specials contained in this guide are subject to change and may be discontinued without notice.


JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016

A Meaty Expansion in Richmond’s Fan A Charlottesville-based whole-animal butcher has been operating a meat counter out of Harvest Grocery & Supply at 5301 W. Main St. for nearly a year. This January, they’re expanding their presence at the market, shifting to full-service butchery, staffed full-time. By extension, the shop name is changing from Harvest Grocery to JM Stock Provisions. The reinvented shop will renew its focus on whole-animal butchery – known in restaurant lingo as nose-to-tail cooking. In short, both use the entire critter, not just the popular parts. Considered trendy, arising from The Whole Beast book by Chef Fergus Henderson, the practice is actually ancient, from our ancestral hunters to pioneers and farmers who raised their own stock. Importantly for today’s consumers, whole-animal practices are sustainable, cutting waste, improving efficiency and trimming costs. After all, a farmer can’t raise merely slices of bacon, pork chops, loins and spareribs. The pigs also come with jowls, feet and chitlins – prepared properly, even these parts can please the palate. Matthew Greene, co-owner of JM Stock Provisions, points to their commitment to local sourcing and to butchery practices that emphasize sustainable agriculture as well as humane slaughter. As part of the growth, JM Stock will increase the number of whole animals received direct and processed in the shop, allowing for more to-order cuts and for more prepared foods, including stocks, sauces and stews. The shop will also add morning ham biscuits, Saturday sandwich specials using JM Stock meats and condiments, and more charcuterie, sausages and other in-house provisions. Interested in learning more about butchery? The butchers will offer

classes, beginning with a 90-minute pig course on February 15. “JM Stock is executing a butchery program at a high level,” said Hunter Hopcroft, owner of Harvest Grocery & Supply. “They are hands-on with their farmers, very skilled at their craft, and have an intensely loyal following. By making it the cornerstone of the shop, we can offer the community something truly authentic and uncompromising.” “We are fortunate to be part of this robust local food industry and hope that our contributions will only add to its growth,” said James Lum, co-owner of JM Stock Provisions. Since Matthew Greene and James Lum opened JM Stock in 2013, the business has been awarded a 2015 Good Food Award for their Paté de Campagne, nominated for a 2016 award for their Tasso Ham and featured in Travel & Leisure, The Wall Street Journal and Richmond Magazine. The grocery element of the Richmond shop will remain strong, continuing to offer local and unique quality food, beer and wine. For more reasons to frequent Richmond butchers, flip over to West End’s Best, “Meat the Challenge,” or go to RichmondNavigator.com. RC

THE OWNERS OF JM STOCK PROVISIONS HAVE FINE-TUNED THEIR BUSINESS IN THIS ORIGINAL CHARLOTTESVILLE LOCATION. COURTESY OF JM STOCK PROVISIONS

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JOEY WHARTON

Backstage with Clair Morgan By Davy Jones

There’s a proverb that I think applies beautifully to Clair Morgan. It says that if you want to go fast, go alone; but if you want to go far, go together. Morgan, who fronts the band that bears his first and last names (you might have seen the shirts that read “Clair Morgan is and is not a band”) has done both.

H

e started out fast, writing and recording his kinetic debut full-length, No Notes, largely as a solo project. Now, with follow-up New Lions & the Not-Good Night, Morgan is setting himself up for an enduring run as leader of one of Richmond’s most imaginative rock bands. He’s been performing with this bigger group for some time – the seven-piece now includes Morgan on guitar and vocals, Ashley Moore and Emily Skidmore on additional vocals and instrumentation, Troy Gatrell on guitar, Adam Tsai on vibraphone, Shannon Cleary on bass and Tim Falen on drums – and he looked to honor that collaborative feel when recording “New Lions.” “I wanted it to feel more like a group record,” Morgan said, “so a lot of the songs started off with us jamming or working on a song idea until we fleshed it out, and then lyrics and melodies would come.” Morgan’s songs often grow out of intricate guitar work, so coordination with Gatrell is crucial. Fortunately, as Morgan told it, their ideas align almost preternaturally: “I have yet to hear something he came up with that wasn’t perfect. He’s got the magic. I don’t know what it is.” “In bands,” Gatrell says, “whatever instrument I’m playing – if I’m playing guitar, if I’m playing drums – I [think] ‘Let the song write my part.’ I just try to plug into the gist of what’s already happening.” While making on-the-fly revisions to “Ready Set Falcon,” the two guitarists experienced as pure a moment of creative cooperation as you’ll find. “We were looking at each other and playing our individual notes,” Morgan recounted, “and we’d change at the same time, but both of the notes would still coincide and work together. It was definitely a studio magic moment.” “It was like we were on a Ouija board,” Gatrell said. As a band, Clair Morgan is no stranger to being on the same page. The group exudes a cohesive warmth onstage, and the same holds true offstage according to Morgan, who tends bar at the Don’t Look Back taqueria in Carytown. “Everyone hangs out with each other throughout the week, even outside of band practice. Usually on nights I’m bartending, they’ll be up at 18 RiverCity

the bar hanging out. I don’t get to hang out as much as I would want, but I get to make them all drunk, so that’s fun. It’s a tight, fun bunch.” While the number of collaborators has changed, two constants carried over from No Notes – Inner Ear Studios in Arlington, Virginia, and T.J. Lipple, the guiding hand behind engineering and production. “I had absolute trust in T.J.,” Morgan said. “He tells you the sky is green and you start to think it immediately. He has an incredibly expansive musical database.” Ashley Moore echoed Morgan’s trust: “There are times when we had harmonies set, and we were doing those, and T.J. said ‘I think it would be better if you did this.’ Overall, everything he said was probably the better idea. There’s so much going on anyway, and I feel like, vocally, it’s really important to make sure it meshes well with everything else happening.” To hear the band describe it, the studio itself contributed as well, serving as a profound source of inspiration. “I was really excited to be in the studio where a lot of classic punk albums were made,” Adam Tsai said. “Jets to Brazil, [The] Promise Ring, Braid, Minor Threat, Fugazi,” Morgan continued, “everywhere you turn, it’s nostalgia all over the place ... To think that you’re in that space and you have access to the same gear that made those records is really exciting.” The process was especially meaningful for bassist Shannon Cleary. “Being someone who grew up in Northern Virginia and knowing how important Inner Ear Studios is towards what D.C. hardcore was, and D.C. bands in general, it was incredible.” His added motivation didn’t end there: “This is the first release I’ve really been featured on, despite doing singer-songwriter stuff for a while, so I put almost an internalized pressure on myself to go in and be familiar with what we needed to do. Also [to] enjoy the environment and the spontaneity – if an idea sparked and it could transform an entire song, just roll with it.” That same sense of excitement abounds when it comes to specific songs and the prospect of sharing them in the live setting. Individual


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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016

favorites vary – “Bryn Mawr” for Ashley Moore and “The Sea” for Tim Falen (who joined to replace Michael Satterfield after most of the drums had been tracked); Cleary and Emily Skidmore are especially thrilled about “Rogue Island.” “That was the one we worked constantly, bashing our head against a wall trying to figure out how to make the song make sense,” Cleary said. “The point that we reached with it, it’s super catchy. I think it’s going to come across really strong live. It has a certain presence that’s a little bit different than some of the other songs on the album … I think it’s going to catch people off guard.” The songs on New Lions & the Not-Good Night hit especially close to home for Morgan, whose two sons acted as the album’s conceptual centerpiece. “There’s definitely a narrative,” Morgan confirmed, “and the characters – we worked with Tim [Skirven] on the artwork – are my sons. We met up at Maymont, they had lion masks on, took pictures, and they ended up being the models for the artwork. It’s meant to have a storybook, children’s, whimsical feel.” While the music is light at times, heavier themes lend balance to New Lions. “When you think about an adventure you took as a child,” Morgan said, “when you’re looking through that lens, that really happened. But now you’re looking through a completely different lens, whether you’re an adult or a father, and you look back at that scenario from a completely different perspective. What did you not soak in that actually happened that you were not able to absorb?” Clair Morgan – the band and the person – is poised to share this colorful journey with Richmond music fans on Friday, Jan. 15, at The Camel. I recommend attending, opening eyes and ears wide, and soaking in every detail. New Lions & the Not-Good Night is due out soon on Egghunt Records. RC

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