River City Sept/Oct 2015 by Advertising Concepts, Inc.

RiverCity

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2015 RichmondNavigator.com PRESIDENT // PUBLISHER

William J. Davis, Jr. VICE-PRESIDENT // PUBLISHER

Cheryl T. Davis MANAGING EDITOR

Annie Tobey FOOD EDITOR

Steve Cook ASSISTANT EDITOR

Tammie Wersinger EDITORIAL INTERN

Kate Desmond CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Joey Wharton

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GRAPHIC DESIGNERS

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ADVERTISING CONSULTANT

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Jimmy Davis PHOTOGRAPHERS

Temple Hill, Jim Johns, Chris Johnson, Alex Tensor, Robert Thomas CONTRIBUTORS

Davy Jones ADVERTISING

In This Issue 04

Discover the infectious positivity of the Richmond jazz bassist.

We go in search of the latest news in Richmondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food and dining scene.

BRIAN CRUSE

TASTEBUDZ

The VHS exhibit will feature 36 ensembles of costumes & accessories.

A few of our favorite bartenders name their favorites.

DRESSING DOWNTON

RAISING THE BAR

Three distinct personalities create a distinctive restaurant.

Traverse one of the most historic communities in the nation.

ESCAPE TO SABAI

CHURCH HILL

About Our Cover: A view from Church Hill overlooking downtown Richmond at night. Photo by Chris Johnson

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: An aerial view of Church Hill. Photo by Chris Johnson Whole fish served at Sabai. Photo by Alex Tensor A costume to be displayed at the Dressing Downton exhibit. Photo courtesy of the Virginia Historical Society

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MUSIC

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BACKSTAGE WITH BRIAN CRUSE by Davy Jones

I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH TO SEE PAUL MCCARTNEY conclude his June show at John Paul Jones

Arena in Charlottesville with “The End,” which promises, “The love you take is equal to Brian Cruse (far left) with the B-Snap-tet. the love you make.” While many subscribe to that optimistic outlook, few fulfill it like Photo by Jim Johns Richmond jazz bassist Brian Cruse. Cruse exudes a profound, infectious positivity. Shorty after the March release of his latest album, Brian Cruse presents: B-Snap-tet, I sat down with Cruse at The Answer Brewpub and chatted, uninterrupted, for nearly two hours – “a typical Brian conversation,” he joked just before I turned off my recorder. Throughout, his enthusiasm beamed, whether he was talking about writing music; recording in the studio; performing live; or teaching private bass, guitar and piano lessons. I first saw Cruse play at Hardywood Park Craft Brewery as part of Brian Cruse & the J. Smith Trio, with Justin Smith on guitar and C.J. Wolfe on drums. My eye was drawn to a pay-what-you-want display offering their 2013 album, Con Legno, which balances complex jazz ideas with accessibility, reflecting Cruse’s deep-seated desire to connect with audiences. “Anytime I’m in a group that has something recorded,” Cruse said, “I want to share it with people just so they can enjoy it. Music has brought [me] a lot of joy in life.” His current gigs range from the welcoming jazz I saw at Hardywood to the cutting-edge classical he composes for the quux collective (an experimental ensemble that blends acoustic and electroacoustic music) and the more traditional Portuguese music he plays with his wife, Bernadette, in Fado Nosso. “As an upright bass player,” Cruse explained, “unless you have your own working band that you exclusively play with, you’re going to play with different bands. And that stretches some time. It’s a delicate balance. That being

said, something that I really want, and it’s relatively easy with technology, is connecting with people in different places.” Cruse grew up listening to punk and hardcore – genres that emphasize a sense of community. “Music, when I grew up, was all about energy. I wasn’t really concerned at all about the exact notes – if the guy missed a chord – because it was just rocking out. Connecting. You’re all singing in unison … that’s something I wanted to maintain.” In 2014, he set his sights on recording a new album, and he decided to do so under a new name – the B-Snap-tet – adding fellow VCU product Brendan Schnabel on saxophone. Under the guiding hand of Minimum Wage Recording owner Lance Koehler, who also recorded and engineered Con Legno, Cruse produced a truly eclectic listening experience, from the hip-hop-inspired “Night-

light” to the album’s meditative centerpiece, “26.1,” which takes on the grave topic of the previous year’s Boston Marathon bombing. “The title relates to the marathon length, 26.2,” Cruse shared. “I was thinking symbolically, with the way the explosion went off. I remember this one picture with this [runner] right by the finish line, [who] didn’t quite get to the 26.2.” The bombing hit close to home for Cruse, whose father competed in the marathon’s wheelchair race. “I was thinking about when I was a kid … and my dad went up there. My grandpa went up with him. I think my grandma, too … I definitely wanted to make it special for that moment, that event, to remember and reflect throughout the song.” Cruse and Koehler worked especially closely on mixing the album. “That’s something that, compared to the first album, I realized I wanted to take more time on,” Cruse said. “I wanted to dial it in. Lance was down. I told him ‘Let’s pan this hard right and see what happens. Pan that hard left …’ We can have fun and make the best art that we want and not be too distracted or concerned because it’s DIY. You’re not under the constraint of some label.” All that commitment and positive energy was returned to him in droves when it came time for a pair of March release parties celebrating Brian Cruse presents: B-Snap-tet. The first was an intimate, at times hushed affair at Crossroads Coffee & Ice Cream. As we talked, it became clear he has a special connection with Crossroads. “I love the Crossroads vibe. You’re crammed in, everybody’s right there. You feel really connected … and I felt like that night’s ‘26.1’ was magical. Justin started doing that thing in the middle – strumming that rhythm – it was dead quiet … I [thought] ‘I’m just going to close my eyes and enjoy it.’” A week later, a bigger celebration was held at Hardywood, giving some of Cruse’s students an opportunity to see him in action. “Hardywood was awesome in its own right,” he said. “It was a bigger crowd vibe, more students came, which was cool. One of my little dudes – a 4-year-old guitar kid – he comes in this suit! A double-breasted suit! And his mom comes up and tells me he would not come to the gig unless he had the suit. He insisted. ‘I need to wear my suit for the performance.’ He’s awesome.” Cruse isn’t just about bringing the joy of performance to a younger generation. He teaches aspiring musicians of all ages, and his older students also came to see him at Hardywood. “My adult students, too – they came out and they were so supportive. They’re aware that they’re doing it as a hobby, mostly … but it’s so cool to see them. It’s like the little kid comes out in them. One guy came up and [said], ‘It was cool seeing you play!’ I could see the passion.” Cruse hadn’t always planned on teaching music, but it’s since become a regular part of his busy schedule – and it’s impossible to mistake his joy when he talks about giving lessons. “It’s like passing the torch. I’ve worked and built some music skills throughout life, and instead of only focusing on building those skills and honing them, which obviously I’m trying to continue to do, the more I think about it, this is an important part of it – to pass the torch to the next guys … Maybe when they get older, they’ll enjoy music and go to concerts. Whether they’re playing or not, they’ll hopefully consider it part of their life and maybe share that with their family. It really is inspiring.” So is Brian Cruse, and you can feel the inspiration firsthand by seeing him perform with the B-Snap-tet at Crossroads Coffee & Ice Cream on Friday, Sept. 25, at 8 p.m.

September 27th | 4:30pm/ 7:30pm Folk Friday September 18th | 8pm

Oktoberfest September 26th | 11am

Bio Ritmo October 11 | 7:30pm @CapAleMusicHall www.capitalalehouse.com 623 E Main Street Richmond, VA 23219

ART

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DRESSING DOWNTON COSTUME EXHIBIT AT THE VHS by Annie Tobey

I’M NOT EASILY DRAWN IN TO TV SERIES , but Downton Abbey hooked Image courtesy of me. By the end of the first episode, I cared what happened to the Virginia Historical the Crawley family and their servants, eagerly anticipating each Society new episode. I’m not alone: the show remains the highest-rated drama in PBS history, with 10.1 million viewers tuned in for the fifth-season U.S. premiere last January. Exhibit What makes this British PBS drama so appealing to AmerInformation ican audiences? Is it the rich lifestyle of the Crawley family, the steamy scenes that mar their staid aristocrat lives? Could it be Dressing Downton Oct. 18, 2015 – the drama both upstairs and down, sometimes removed but more Jan. 10, 2016 often mingling and even merging? Or perhaps the appeal comes Historical from watching the characters adjust to changing times, providing Virginia Society insight into our contemporary social struggles. 428 North Boulevard From Oct. 18 through Jan. 10, 2016, Richmond fans can get VAHistorical.org close-ups of the show’s masterful costumes and accessories at “Dressing Downton: Changing Fashion for Changing Times” at the Virginia Historical Society (VHS). The VHS exhibit features 36 ensembles of costumes and accessories, including Lady Mary’s dark red silk evening dress, the countess’s purple print silk day dress with adorning jewelry, and the earl’s dress uniform. The costumes will be supported with text panels and with props, such as the microphone and stand with jazz singer Jack Ross’s costume. Set in Hampshire, England, in the 1910s and 1920s, Downton Abbey stories parallel Virginia history and times. “The award-winning series deals with issues that were prevalent

not only on the fictional Downton Abbey estate, but in American society as a whole,” Lizzie Oglesby, senior officer for public relations and marketing at the VHS told me, “such as labor unrest and the rise of unions, the women’s suffrage movement, the industrialization of agriculture and household appliances and the First World War.” Individual histories reflect the similarities, too, such as Nancy Witcher of Danville, Virginia, who married into English aristocracy as did Cora Crawley (née Levinson), known as Lady Grantham. Nancy Witcher became Lady Astor, the first woman to sit as a member of parliament in the British House of Commons. Fashion similarly changed across the Atlantic. “As hemlines rose and silhouettes strayed from the Edwardian/Victorian-style of the older generations in England, they did the same in the U.S.,” explained Oglesby. “The ‘flapper’ era in America mirrored that in England in the more consumer-oriented society with more women in the workplace.” The exhibit displays the three-dozen costumes in six sections: British Idyll; Upstairs Downstairs; War and Social Change; The Generation Gap; Men and Women; and Town and Country. With season six announced as the final season, beginning in January 2016, this seems to be the best chance for fans of Downton Abbey like me to get their fix. It’s as close as I’ll get to the characters I’ve come to know – many to admire, others to puzzle over, though none to despise. I hope Lady Sybil would approve. RC

DINING

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ESCAPE TO SABAI by Steve Cook

“I WAS A PROBLEM CHILD. Since I was grounded from about the fifth

left to right: grade through high school, I had plenty of time to do the cooking for From Brandon Pearson, my family.” Jason Lough, a business partner at the new and wildly Jason Lough and Joe popular Sabai Restaurant, explained his earliest culinary experience. Kiatsuranon at Sabai. Photo by Alex Tensor Joe Kiatsuranon, also a partner in the restaurant, was anything but a problem child. By the age of eight, growing up in Khon Kaen, Thailand, he was helping his family with their street-food business. Brandon Pearson, the third partner in Sabai, grew up in Chesterfield County and pursued a career in construction. While the three men come from completely different backgrounds, all share one very notable trait: a burning desire to be the best. It’s that desire plus their individual and unique talents that have made Sabai an instant hit. I have known Joe for over 14 years, watching him grow up working alongside his mother, Sue Pala-art, and brother, Sonny Kiatsuranon, in Mom’s Siam Thai restaurant in Carytown. I met Jason a couple of years ago, when we featured him in Raising the Bar. I was immediately impressed with his creativity and his talents as a mixologist. I only met Brandon when the three men joined forces, but as I watched the empty shell of a building evolving into one of the most unique dining spots in town, it became clear that he is truly an artist. Seemingly random events brought these very different people together to create something unique and successful. Jason, born on a naval base in Connecticut, spent nine years on a submarine and eventually ended up in Richmond. “I bounced around a lot,” he said. “I moved every time the rent was due.” In his early teens, Joe had moved to America with his mother. Upon his return to Richmond at age 21, Brandon met Joe and his family. Ultimately, he accompanied Sonny on a life-changing journey to Thailand. “As soon as I arrived,” he said, “I knew this was going to be my home. I loved everything about Bangkok, especially the warmth of the people and the street food.” When Brandon came back to the states to care for family business, Joe invited him to join him in the restaurant business. “I wanted to have a place where I could create dishes that would become world famous,” Joe said. He located a small building on Broad Street and asked Brandon to

look at the building. “The place was a dump,” Brandon recalled, but the men agreed that they could transform the “dump” into a spot where Joe could make a mark on the culinary scene and where Brandon could share his passion for Thailand. A chance encounter led to Brandon’s meeting Jason, who was managing the bar at a downtown restaurant. Brandon was impressed by Jason’s creative vision. “Even before I tasted his first cocktail, I knew we wanted him in the business.” In early June, Sabai opened its doors. Almost immediately, local crowds discovered a restaurant that lived up to its name, which in Thai carries the idea of relaxation and enjoyment of life. Diners discovered dishes that were, as Joe had promised, “different from any other restaurant in Richmond.” The food is complemented by an equally unique cocktail selection. Jason’s creativity starts before the first ingredient is poured. “I bring a certain silliness, a cheekiness to the drinks,” he said. “I get to tell a story, to say what I want to say, with my drinks.” Besides the creative vision that makes Sabai’s décor stand out, Brandon brings something else to the table. “Brandon doesn’t know the meaning of the word ‘can’t,’” Jason said. “He believes anything can be done and he gives us the confidence to do it.” The three men and their talented staff are, indeed, doing it. “We thought we’d do well,” Brandon said, “but we’ve surpassed our expectations.” Those expectations include Jason’s desire to have his own place and use his creativity; Brandon’s wish to share his passions; and Joe’s determination to make his mother proud. “She’s my hero,” he said. “If it wasn’t for her, there’d be no Sabai.” Along the way, the three have cemented a friendship that will, no doubt, continue beyond Sabai. RC 2727 W. Broad St. / Facebook.com/SabaiRVA

PAD PRIK MOO BAH

Crispy fatty pork with bell pepper, onion, Thai eggplant and bamboo shoots.

MOO SAM CHAN

Marinated grilled pork belly served with a spicy lime sauce.

PLA THOD LAD PRIK

Whole fish served on a bed of garlic Shanghai tip.

TASTEBUDZ

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TASTEBUDZ

What’s new? New location, new restaurant, new market, new menu, new patio. It’s all in our new TasteBudz.

THE LATEST NEWS IN RICHMOND'S FOOD AND DINING SCENE

with Steve Cook

NEW DIGS FOR JULEP’S to Julep’s New Southern Cuisine recently, you haven’t been to Julep’s … literally. The popular Shockoe Bottom restaurant has moved. It’s now the popular downtown restaurant, having relocated to 420 E. Grace St. Owner Amy Ayers, who opened the location on East Franklin Street in 2003, said the relocation comes after many years of searching for just the right home for Julep’s. Amy said she wanted to own the property housing her popular eatery, which was inspired by her love for the cuisines of Charleston, Savannah and New Orleans. After discovering the availability of the East Grace property, Amy began a two-year renovation process. She told me that much of the old architectural features have been preserved and/ or restored. “It is a beautiful space,” she said, “and I love that there is so much history that comes with this old building as well.” Amy added, “The change I have been enjoying the most is being part of the revitalization of the Grace Street corridor. It is exciting to be part of such a vibrant and evolving neighborhood.” Chef Matthew Tlusty and General Manager John Van Peppen have joined the Julep’s team in its new location. “The bar program is great,” Amy said. “Julep’s beverage manager Ty Cataneo has really put his heart into creating a unique and tasty specialty cocktail menu.” Juleps.net IF YOU HAVEN’T BEEN

THE UMBRELLAS OF MONUMENT AVENUE

A BRAND NEW BALLICEUX

(IMHO) now has something it’s never had before and, in all likelihood, will never have again: restaurant patio dining. After more than a year of jumping through legal hoops and getting all the official papers signed, sealed and delivered, Joe and Whitney Kiatsuranon, owners of My Noodle and Bar at 1600 Monument Ave., have now opened their beautiful patio. What could be more enjoyable on a late summer/early fall afternoon than enjoying delicious noodles beside this attractive city sidewalk? Speaking of which, I have fallen in love with Joe’s new Wild Noodle dish. It has just the right amount of heat to pair perfectly with a refreshing beverage. MyNoodleAndBar.com

SEAN RAPOZA IS ONE OF

RICHMOND’S MOST BEAUTIFUL BOULEVARD

DEEP RUN INTO THE CITY PAUL HUBBARD IS ON THE MOVE AGAIN . Paul was the pitmaster at

Alamo Barbecue on Church Hill until he left there about two years ago. He took his barbecuing secrets out to Gayton Road in Henrico where he opened Deep Run Roadhouse. Now he’s moving back east to the Fan. Kevin Tiller, manager of the Gayton Road location, told me that come November, Deep Run Roadhouse will be opening a second location at 309 N. Laurel St. Although that location was most recently the home of the short-lived Moo Burgers, many of you will remember it as the home of the Nile Restaurant, whose owners took their Ethiopian cuisine over to Carytown and Portrait House about a year ago. Kevin said the Fan version of the Roadhouse will be similar to the West End store, but with more emphasis on sandwiches. DeepRunRoadhouse.com

the “Bartender’s Bartenders” featured in this issue’s “Raising the Bar.” When we did our photo shoot with Sean in early August, he was at the time the bartender at the new and extremely popular Shoryuken Ramen. We had first met Sean when he was heading up the bar scene at the not-so-new and very popular Balliceaux restaurant on Lombardy. Balliceaux closed last spring and while they had announced they’d reopen in the fall, I admit, I had heard that story before with other restaurants. I figured they’d gone the way of many other great dining spots (i.e., bit the dust). However, Sean told me when we spoke in August that Balliceaux was indeed going to reopen. “However, it’s going to be completely different,” he said. Well, he was right on target with that. Balliceaux will be reopening with a Thai/ Indochine menu. Their website reflects the changes, with the name Kampot (a region of Cambodia) at the top of their homepage. According to a press release, that’s the name of the kitchen at Balliceaux. You have to be pretty special when your kitchen has its own name. Their all-new menu is available on their website. As we go to press, a September 3 opening is planned. BalliceauxRVA.com

RAISING THE BAR 12

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THE BARTENDER’S BARTENDER by Steve Cook / photos by Robert Thomas

EVERYBODY SEEMS TO HAVE his or her favorite bartender. For this edition of Raising the Bar, I asked some of our favorite bartenders to name their favorites. While each person with whom I spoke named several, I narrowed it down to these four highly respected local bartenders. In addition to getting a little more info about these guys, I also asked each to prepare either his favorite drink or a signature drink from his bar.

BOBBY KRUGER – BELLE & JAMES 700 E. Main St. (opening late September) BelleAndJames.com

one of my favorite bartenders. Today, she is the beer ambassador at Lickinghole Creek Craft Brewery in Goochland. She told me that Bobby Kruger is one of her favorites. Bobby Kruger, a native of Hawaii, moved to the area as a child when his father’s military career took the family to Fort Lee. Bobby has been pretty much a fixture on the Richmond bar scene for several years and will be serving as the GM at the soonto-open Belle & James restaurant.

BETH TURK HAS LONG BEEN

SC: So, tell me about the new place. BK: The bar at Belle & James is handsome, lit from the glow of under-lit honey

ony x and accented with steel, iron and leather. The craft cocktail program is intended to complement its austere surroundings. The cuisine is French-American with an emphasis on hearty French classics and American dishes made with a French twist. SC: What do you love most about working behind the bar? BK: For me, it’s the customers. I’ve been fortunate to have an incredibly gracious and

complimentary clientele for the entirety of my bartending career. The reactions to my cocktails and the relationships I’ve built with so many wonderful people sitting across the bar from me are the whole reason I love my job. SC: What beverage would one most likely find in your home? BK: Lagavulin 16. It’s the one bottle I have at home that always requires an imme-

diate replacement. SC: If I were not in the industry, I’d probably be … BK: … face down in a ditch somewhere. No, seriously though, I can’t think of anything

else I would be doing. I truly love this business and I truly love my job. I can’t imagine doing anything else.

LEFT: Bobby Kruger of Belle & James. BELOW: The James Cocktail

SC: What’s the coolest bar you’ve ever visited? BK: Booker and Dax [New York City].

I love innovation and I think most of my peers down here would say I lean a little heavier on creating my own thing than I do on honoring the classics. What they are doing at Booker and Dax is incredibly innovative and not just for buzz or marketing purposes. SC: Tell me about the drink you’ve created for us. BK: The James Cocktail is one half of our eponymously named

beverages. It is made with Old Forester Bourbon, mole bitters, rosemary syrup, fresh lime and salted caramel. It’s garnished with a smoking rosemary sprig. The idea behind the James Cocktail was to create something masculine and complex as well as multi-seasonal. We’ll always have the Belle Cocktail and the James Cocktail, even though I will be changing the rest of the cocktail menu seasonally. I knew that to capture that masculinity, I wanted to use whiskey, fire and smoke. So I started playing around with burning different garnishes and rosemary was what I loved the most. From there I worked backwards in an attempt to create a balanced yet evolving cocktail. I wanted a flavor transition from the fire and smoke to a more complex and nuanced creation, with the mole bitters and the salted caramel adding flavor notes as the rosemary char faded and the drink evolved in the glass.

RAISING THE BAR

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JUSTIN AYOTTE – SAISON 23 W. Marshall St. SaisonRVA.com

Jason Lough, who’s drawing in huge crowds at the new Sabai, tells me that Justin Ayotte is one of the very best bartenders he knows. Justin was born in Virginia Beach but grew up in Midlothian. He attended Christopher Newport College in Newport News for three years before moving back to Richmond and graduating from VCU. Currently, you’ll find Justin behind the bar at Saison, which he describes as “a combination of execution and comfort.” He says his first bar job was at Capital Ale House, where he learned a lot about craft beer and gained valuable experience. SC: What do you love most about working behind the bar? JA: I love being able to put together drinks for such a wide range

of palates. Every shift brings new challenges in how to interpret what the guest wants and be able to make a drink that fits their mood and the situation. SC: What beverage would one most likely find in your home? JA: My refrigerator usually has a bottle of Dolin Rouge and a

few hoppy or sour beers. My bar at home always has three items: Fernet Branca, Campari and a bottle of Rittenhouse Rye. SC: If I didn’t work behind the bar I’d be … JA: … doing something that I do frequently with my job – coun-

SEAN RAPOZA – SHORYUKEN RAMEN 900 W. Franklin St. ShoryukenRamen.com

We featured Melanie Rasnic in our January Raising the Bar, when she was working at The Blue Goat. She told us that Sean Rapoza is one of her very favorite bartenders. Sean is also a native of Hawaii. He grew up in Yorktown. After spending some time in New York, Sean says he’s back in town “for good.” His first job in the industry was as a doorman at The Tobacco Company in 2000. When we met with Sean, he was heading up the bar at Shoryuken Ramen. However, he’s now accepted a position as the sommelier at the new Belle & James. “I will continue to consult with Shoryuken,” he told me, “providing their cocktail menus along with staff training.” SC: What do you love most about working behind the bar? SR: The great relationships I’ve established over the years. I met my wife while behind a bar! SC: What beverage would one most likely find in your home? SR: Fernet Branca! SC: If I were not in the industry, I’d probably be … SR: … a fashion designer. SC: What’s the coolest bar you’ve ever visited? SR: Recently, Smugglers Cove in San Francisco. Amazing Tiki drinks, very, very old-

school bartenders. SC: Tell me about the drink you’ve created for us. SR: We did our Nippon Negroni. We replace the gin of a traditional Negroni with

nigori sake, along with the usual Campari and Carpano Antica. A pinch of salt and a dash of saline round out the cocktail. Top with an orange twist and finish with watermelon-Campari ice. The flavor of the melon complements the sake nicely.

seling. At some point in every shift you are asked to lend an ear or [provide] some advice. I would be doing the same thing if I didn’t have a bar in front of me. SC: What’s the coolest bar you’ve ever visited? JA: The Distillery in Savannah, Georgia, is one of my favorite

15 bars. It has an amazing selection of beer and, as the name suggests, it is located in an old distillery. SC: Tell me about the drink you’ve created for us. JA: The Negroni is a classic with a great story. This amazing

cocktail was created in Florence, Italy, in 1919 when Count Camillo Negroni asked his bartender to strengthen his favorite drink, the Americano [vermouth, Campari and soda water], by exchanging gin for the soda. This floral cocktail with a bright bitter orange finish is great year round, but to add some warmth and spice, exchange some rye whiskey for the gin.

KJELL ANDERSON – METZGER BAR AND BUTCHERY 801 N. 23rd St. MetzgerBarAndButchery.com

On several occasions, Shannon Hood from Portrait House has told me how much she respects the skills of Kjell Anderson of Metzger Bar and Butchery. Kjell was born in Iowa, moved to Richmond at age 5 and grew up in the Lakeside and Glen Allen areas. He lives with his wife, Brittany, in Church Hill. Kjell is the bar manager and Brittany is the chef at Metzger. “Metzger’s cuisine is seasonal, modern and German-inspired,” he said. Kjell broke into the business, he told me, “pouring wine, beer and vodka-sodas at Embassy Suites complimentary happy hour at the age of 20.” SC: What do you love most about working behind the bar? KA: Presently, after many years of experience behind many

different bars (and in particular my time at the Roosevelt), I feel way more confident in my ability to handle the bar no matter what happens, working cleanly and efficiently while providing my guests with a great experience. Having that confidence is my favorite part of bartending. Of course, hanging out, making drinks and talking about booze with people all night isn’t bad either. SC: What beverage would one most likely find in your home? KA: There is always cold beer in my fridge. SC: If I weren’t in the industry, I would be … KA : … a very broke musician. SC: What’s the coolest bar you’ve ever visited? KA : I’ve been in many great bars, but visiting Weather Up when it

first opened in Brooklyn in 2008 impacted me greatly. Very dark with candles everywhere, subway tile, old 50s doo-wop playing in the background, great neighborhood vibe and an incredible classic cocktail program. It was a brand new bar experience and felt like a special occasion every time I went. SC: Tell me about the drink you’ve created for us. KA : The drink is called Schadenfreude, the German word for

taking pleasure in others’ misfortune. The name came first, and the end result was a bittersweet and slightly smoky Tequila Manhattan. It contains Cazadores Reposado, St. Germain, War and Rust Quinquina, Elisir Novasalus and Vida Mezcal. RC

TOP LEFT: Sean Rapoza of Shoryuken Ramen BOTTOM LEFT: Justin Ayotte of Saison RIGHT: Kjell Anderson of Metzger Bar and Butchery

NEIGHBORHOODS

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CHURCH HILL – HONORING ITS PAST, CELEBRATING ITS FUTURE by Steve Cook

PATRICK HENRY WALKED ITS STREETS .

So did Thomas Jefferson view of and George Washington. Both of those future presidents were in Aerial Church Hill. attendance on March 23, 1775, when Henry delivered his historic Photo by Chris Johnson call to arms, concluding with the words, “Give me liberty or give me death.” The occasion was the Virginia Convention held in St. John’s Church, located at 2401 E. Broad St. St. John’s is the church that gives this, the most famous of Richmond’s seven (plus) hills, its name. As the first neighborhood in a city so rich in history, Church Hill* is one of the most historic communities in the entire nation. Despite the fact that so much of the Confederate capital was burned in the waning days of the Civil War, most of Church Hill’s houses were left unscathed. In fact, even today, most of the houses were built before the war. For those of us who’ve lived in the Richmond metro area for the past several decades, we may need to reevaluate our long-held views of the neighborhood. Just the name “Church Hill” has invoked images of crime, drug deals, street gangs and the like.

Admittedly, through the years, Church Hill has gotten some pretty bad press, much of it deserved. As recently as 2011, it was reported that Church Hill was the 10th most dangerous neighborhood in America. However, many of the locals, those who know the neighborhood the best, disputed that assessment. Even before 2011, many were beginning to look at Church Hill in a much more positive light. In 2005, John Wurden, publisher of the Church Hill People’s News (chpn.net), an electronic online version of a small town newspaper, bought a home in Church Hill and began renovations. Almost immediately, he said, “I began to discover my new neighborhood.” Wurden had grown up in Chesterfield, and had, for years, heard about all the crime in Church Hill. “I realized that there were stories to tell. The media would cover crime, but they weren’t reporting what I was seeing. You could see changes coming. There was lots of civic activity.”

Wurden was a teacher at Martin Luther King Middle School at the time. “I lived in the neighborhood,” he continued. “I walked to school with the kids.” He admits some early trepidations. There were hookers and drug dealers on some of the corners. But that wasn’t the whole picture. In spite of such problems, Wurden said, “There were heroic 75-year-old ladies who were teaching me stuff … what it had been like when they had grown up here.” As he became better acquainted with his fellow residents, Wurden says he came to appreciate “a sense of community, a sense of urban neighborliness. These people had fond memories. They still felt safe and were working to reestablish the neighborhood.” The long-time residents of the neighborhood didn’t care about his race. “I was a good neighbor. I helped pick up trash. I held cookouts.” If you spend even a few hours in Church Hill today, you may be surprised to discover the 2015 version of the neighborhood. To many, it’s nothing short of amazing to see young (and older) professionals jogging or walking their dogs or strolling with their toddlers along the city sidewalks. In 2010, Wurden met his future wife, Kendra Feather, owner of Ipanema Restaurant on Grace Street downtown. About that same time, Feather’s landlord at the restaurant told her he was looking at a property on Church Hill. He wanted to put a restaurant there, he said, but only if she would run it.

A year later, her restaurant, The Roosevelt, opened its doors at the corner of 25th and M streets. “We were astounded at how it was embraced by the public,” Wurden said. “We had intended for it to be simply a neighborhood restaurant, but soon folks from all over the city, from Powhatan and Goochland, began coming. We would joke that it must be a good restaurant if people would park on a letter street to eat here.” The only streets in the city that have letter designations are in Church Hill, starting with M Street. While there were a couple of restaurants on the Hill prior to The

NEIGHBORHOODS

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Roosevelt, such as Patrick Henry’s Pub and The Hill Café, The Roosevelt paved the way for a host of other more upscale eateries that have since opened in the neighborhood. More than 40 years before Kendra Feather opened her restaurant there, James McCarty, a native of southwestern Virginia, acquired a business in Church Hill, an automotive service company that had a towing contract with the city. “The [towing] contract was in the name of Pritchard Brothers, so I kept the same name,” said McCarty. Today, he no longer operates the towing business, but does have a used car lot (2720 E. Marshall St.), where he holds an auto auction on the third Wednesday of each month. While most of those with whom I spoke are very positive about the changes in Church Hill, McCarty is not so enthusiastic – but that’s not because he has any concerns about crime or safety. In fact, he moved into the neighborhood and has lived across the street from his auto lot for over 30 years. “Church Hill has changed too fast,” he said. “There’s too much congestion, too much traffic. I like the olden days.” In those olden days, the gas station that stood on his property sold kindling wood, coal, gas and kerosene. “People would line up to buy kerosene for 25 cents a gallon,” he recalled. While McCarty said he would prefer less change in the community, he does admit that it’s safer on Church Hill today. But even back in the mid-70s, he said, “Somebody might get in a fight, steal a hubcap or something, but you didn’t have any shootings.” I sat a spell and visited with McCarty in his office, as we did what older men love to do: recall those golden days of yore. Before I left, he told me, “I love it up here.” However, he did admit, “If I had kids, I’d think about it. It’s not the neighborhood. It’s the

school system. I have no problems.” I talked with many of the local residents who spoke enthusiastically about the sense of community on Church Hill. Some, like McCarty, expressed concerns about the public school system. And while many of those with young children have chosen private schools, others spoke of a desire and an eagerness to help improve the public schools in the neighborhood. Several folks told me that they initially chose the neighborhood because it was more affordable than other parts of the city. They say they moved here and then grew to love Church Hill as they came to know the people, to discover the amenities and to take in the view (Libby Hill Park offers some of the best views of the city). I think, though, James McCarty put it best: “I wouldn’t live nowhere else.” Actors in the St. John's Church historical reenactments. Photo courtesy of the St. John's Church Foundation

ATTRACTIONS Watch History Come Alive Since 1976, St. John’s Church Foundation has presented historical reenactments at the original location of the Second Virginia Convention of March 1775. Professional actors in 1770s attire portray 10 delegates, including Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson and George Washington. Although the weekly, Sunday-afternoon reenactments run only through Labor Day, additional reenactments are scheduled throughout the year. Check the website’s Events page for more information and additional dates. HistoricStJohnsChurch.org

The Confederacy’s Largest Hospital According to the National Park Service, Chimborazo Hospital was one of the “largest, best-organized and most sophisticated hospitals in the Confederacy.” The museum today houses equipment that was used by doctors and nurses during the Civil War as they tended to Confederate soldiers. NPS.gov/rich

DINING IN CHURCH HILL

The following include my personal favorites as well as several establishments that were recommended during my conversations with residents of Church Hill.

Metzger Bar & Butchery. Photo by Joey Wharton

Metzger Bar & Butchery German-inspired seasonal cuisine features schnitzels, sausages, pork and poultry and even vegetarian selections. Chosen by Southern Living magazine as one of the best new restaurants to watch. 801 N. 23rd St. / MetzgerBarAndButchery.com

Alamo BBQ If you’re in the mood for some of the best barbecue in the entire city, remember Alamo BBQ. Pulled pork and chicken, ribs and briskets and a pretty mean Cuban, too. This may be the only place in Church Hill where you can get an ice cold PBR. 2202 Jefferson Ave. / AlamoBbqVA.com

Proper Pie Co. In Australia and some parts of the U.S., they call ’em pasties. In Richmond, not so much. Think savory. Think awesome. They excel in the sweet variety of pies as well. 2005 E. Broad St. / ProperPieCo.com

The Roosevelt Dog and Pig Show This pleasant little shop dazzles guests with simple yet delicious takeout. As we go to press, the restaurant has closed through August for a “transformation.” Whatever they are transforming into is going to be fantastic, I’m sure. 314 N. 24th St. / TheDogAndPigShow.com

Dutch & Company When I asked about favorite restaurants, just about every local with whom I spoke said, “You have to try Dutch & Company.” I agree. You really do. Just perusing the menu is a culinary adventure. 400 N. 27th St. / DutchAndCompany.com

The awards just keep on coming, including James Beard 2015 Best Chef – Mid Atlantic (Lee Gregory) and Conde Nast – 8 Best Southern Cocktail Bars. 623 N. 25th St. / RooseveltRVA.com

Sub Rosa Bakery I may have had better bread sometime during my life, but I honestly can’t remember where or when. They even stone mill in house and it’s all baked in their wood-fired masonry oven. Forget the details, just eat the bread (and pastries) and enjoy. 620 N. 25th St. / SubRosaBakery.com

WPA Bakery

The Hill Café

A neighborhood bakery and coffee shop. Everything is delicious, but whatever you do, try one of their amazing canelés. 2707 E. Marshall St. / WPABakery.com

Before the crowds started flocking to Church Hill, the Hill Café was here. If you want to go where the locals hang out, go to the Hill Café, Church Hill’s original neighborhood eatery. 2800 E. Broad St. / TheHillCafe.com

*Often the name Church Hill is used to designate a broader area than Church Hill proper. In this article, we make no differentiation between Church Hill and adjacent communities that are often considered a part of that neighborhood. RC