BIG FUN
CHESAPEAKE BAY MAGAZINE
Cruising in Small Boats
TOP MARINAS
Find Your Perfect Slip
EN PLEIN AIR The Art of Nature
JULY/AUGUST 2022
JULY/AUGUST 2022 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com
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CONTENTS
18 JULY/AUGUST 2022
Features 66 Saltwater Cowboys
time-honored tradition returns to Chincoteague A —Marty LeGrand
VOLUME 52 | NUMBER 3
Talk of the Bay 6 Drawn to Nature
The joy of Chesapeake nature journaling —Kate Livie
74 In Praise of Small Things
12 Meet Captain Doc
Columns
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTIONS
18 C hesapeake Almanac: Big Fun in Little Boats
59 2002 Restaurant Showcase
Discovering the joys of cruising the Bay in small boats —Jefferson Holland
The new oldest tugboat man in Baltimore —Rafael Alvarez
32 2022 Marina Showcase
Chesapeake voyages of discovery, 21st-century style —John Page Williams
24 O n Boats: Ranger R-43 Command Bridge
Ranger Tugs’ biggest boat yet proves ideal for Chesapeake cruising—Capt. John Page Williams
12
74
12 84 74 66
84
Baltimore Stevensville, Md. Annapolis Chincoteague, Va.
80 Wild Chesapeake: Crabbing With Kids Little ones can learn big lessons in conservation when they start early— Capt. Chris Dollar
84 C hesapeake Chef: Country Corn & Crab Dip
On the Cover: Saltwater Cowboy Hunter Leonard herds ponies from Assateague to Chincoteague.
Libbey’s Coastal Kitchen + Cocktails, Stevensville, Md.
96 Stern Lines
66
The little crab that got away—Jefferson Holland
July/August 2022
Photo by Rebekah Leonard of the Cowboy Cruise Company.
ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com
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Volume 52
Number 3
PUBLISHER
John Stefancik
EDITOR
Jefferson Holland CRUISING EDITOR: Jody Argo Schroath MULTIMEDIA JOURNALIST: Cheryl Costello CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Susan Moynihan EDITORS-AT-LARGE: Wendy Mitman Clarke,
Chris D. Dollar, Ann Levelle, John Page Williams CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Rafael Alvarez, Ann Eichenmuller, Robert Gustafson, Mark Hendricks, Marty LeGrand, Kate Livie, Nancy Taylor Robson, Charlie Youngmann
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Jim Burger, Dan Duffy, Jay Fleming, Mark Hendricks, Jill Jasuta, Caroline J. Phillips
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Chesapeake Bay Magazine (ISSN0045-656X) (USPS 531-470) is published by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC, 410 Severn Avenue, Annapolis, MD 21403. $25.95 per year, 11 issues annually. $7.99 per copy. Periodical postage paid at Annapolis, MD 21403 and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes or corrections for Chesapeake Bay Magazine to 410 Severn Ave., Annapolis, MD 21403. Copyright 2022 by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC— Printed in the U.S.A.
FROM THE PUBLISHER
Welcome Aboard, Jefferson! by John Stefancik
J
eff Holland published his first article in Chesapeake Bay Magazine in 1981. It was about the new turning basin at the end of Ego Alley at Annapolis City Dock. He had just arrived in town aboard a sailboat with his father, Bill Holland, and he’s been here ever since. While contributing articles and photographs to this magazine and other publications over the years, Jeff has also served at the PR guy for Annapolis Boat Shows, the director of the Annapolis Maritime Museum for its first decade in existence, and as the Riverkeeper for the West and Rhode Rivers. Oh, and all that time, he’s been writing and performing original tunes inspired by his years hanging around the Bay and sailing up and down between Norfolk and Havre de Grace in everything from 100-year-old bugeye schooners to nuclear submarines. He was a founding member of Them Eastport Oyster Boys and now shares his poems, songs and stories in solo performances all around the watershed. Jeff lives a short bike ride from the magazine offices in Annapolis with his emotional support spouse, Louise White; their 2-year-old rescue retriever, Millie; and their two cats. When they’re not walking in the woods with Millie or messing about in their “large fleet of small boats,” Jeff and Louise like to go camping up in the mountains of Western Maryland or on the Eastern Shore in their little teardrop camper. They’re both into bird watching and Jeff likes fly fishing. “I’m just beyond the flailing stage,” he says of his casting technique. We’re pleased to welcome Jefferson Holland to his new career as the editor of Chesapeake Bay Magazine. Jeff brings to these pages his experience with the Bay’s boating industry, natural history and cultural heritage, and conservation of our precious natural resources, and we’re looking forward to the fascinating people, places and fun experiences he’ll be sharing with us in the seasons to come.
July/August 2022
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TALK OF THE BAY
Drawn to Nature
The Joy of Chesapeake Nature Journaling Story and illustrations by Kate Livie
T
here’s just one road that crosses Eastern Neck Island off the southern tip of Kent County, Md. A ribbon of pavement through the marsh, it’s barely above the high tide line and sometimes not even that. I’ve driven the road a thousand times, in every season. I might follow it to the old, overgrown Bayside homesite where the bulbs still bloom every spring, or to the path that leads to my favorite oyster shell beach. But as l rough it out in my sketchbook, fresh details emerge. I draw the tilting osprey pole, the reflection of clouds on the water. In the marsh, I wash the page with watercolor, and the salt meadow
To me, nature journaling is a practice, like yoga or piano.
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hay bleaches from summer green to fall gold. In my mind’s eye, I can see the turtles I’ve helped along as they crossed the pavement, hear the fluting call of tundra swans where the road cuts close to a protected cove. I would not call myself an artist— I’m a writer—but the piles of sketchbooks I’ve filled with scenes like this beg to differ. In them, I’ve documented the water and landscapes of the Chesapeake for years. Seasons, locations, history, tides, plants and animals all get their space in the pages. Nature journaling lets me pin my experiences to paper like moths. In them, I can hold down a sliver of time and beauty that would have passed out of memory or languished in iPhone photo purgatory. To me, nature journaling is a practice, like yoga or piano. You start off with childish placeholders for things—a lollipop tree, a rectangle house. With practice, you see past the symbols and start to truly observe and reflect what is really there. You notice and sketch distinctions: the smooth gray bark of a beech next to the elegant whiteness of a sycamore, for example. As you strengthen your journaling skills, your ability to draw what you see grows. Time slows too, as you build focus. With a sketchbook on my lap, the minutes and hours lengthen, and scenes or little details otherwise overlooked sharpen into vivid relief: crickets in the weeds or an owl’s silhouette on a ridge at dusk. The more I fill each sketchbook, the better and stronger my work becomes. In turn, I become more observant and appreciative of the world around me. Not only is each sketchbook a diary of my trips around the Chesapeake, it also documents my evolving skills and confidence. Journaling has revived a joyful part of myself I left behind a long time ago. I always liked to paint and draw as a kid and teenager, but stopped creating anything after grade school. In my
With a sketchbook on my lap, the minutes and hours lengthen, and scenes or little details otherwise overlooked sharpen into vivid relief.
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GETTING STARTED To start nature journaling yourself, here’s a list of recommended resources and supplies to get you out into the field and filling your own sketchbooks. Recommended gear for nature journaling beginners: • Watercolor sketchbook (smaller sizes recommended for maximum portability) • Micron waterproof pens • Regular graphite pencil • Kneaded art eraser • A small travel watercolor kit. Winsor and Newton’s Canson line is affordable and comes with half-pans of color you can take with you anywhere. • Refillable water brush pens. Pentels are excellent and inexpensive, and these great little brushes mean there’s no need for a cup of water to rinse your color out. • Sponge cloth for cleaning the color off your brushes and to blot your paper if it gets too wet.
mind, art was for artists—and if I wasn’t “good enough” to support myself as a professional, what was the point? But there’s been a change in my perspective as I’ve gotten older. I’ve come back to drawing and sketching just for the pleasure of it. If anything, there’s something marvelous about rediscovering a creative outlet that isn’t some revenue stream. There will never be an exhibit of my little sketches, and I never have to worry if what I make is what will sell. The enjoyment of an afternoon spent capturing the reflection of the covered bridge over Little Elk Creek is just for me. The beauty of this hobby is that it’s a low-stakes endeavor (read: cheap and convenient) that fits neatly into the rest of my life. Kitted out with a little sling backpack filled with a small sketchbook, pens, and a travel watercolor kit, I set off to my regular haunts. Whether it’s trails at Fair Hill, Sassafras, or Eastern Neck Island, oyster midden beaches, historic Chesapeake sites like Jamestown or Mount Vernon, or Smith Island’s crab shanties, I find
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Check with your local arts center for schedules of classes on journaling.
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July/August 2022
KNAPP’S NARROWS DREDGED
inspiration from the places I’d go anyway. Sometimes I’ll sketch en plein air, right there on site where the mood strikes me. Or I’ll snap a reference photo to work from at home, revisiting a place in my mind days or weeks later. I lay down the lines first, then chase it with color. It doesn’t have to be perfect—if anything, working in ink means you have to view your mistakes as opportunities. It also doesn’t need to be terribly faithful to the drawing’s inspiration. What’s important is the process. What did you see, hear, experience? What’s new in the world around you? What was the light like, or the weather? Maybe you add a drawing of the beach glass you found, or develop a new composition of words and images that emphasizes color, value or story. But most importantly, enjoy yourself. Lose track of time. Experiment. Get drawn back into the natural world around you.
Each image is a little thank you note of appreciation for this beautiful place. RESOURCES Social media Search the hashtag #naturejournal on Instagram for an active community of nature journalists from all around the world. It’s a great source of inspiration, tutorials, and a way to connect with other people who love to sketch and paint outdoors. Books Best all-around beginner resource and guide (and my personal nature journaling bible): Keeping a Nature Journal by Clare Walker Leslie & Charles E. Roth For more advanced journal keepers: Laws Guide to Nature Drawing & Journaling by John Muir Laws For children: Take this Book for a Walk by Paula Peeters
Websites Great online courses and resources by a science illustrator and nature artist in Germany (classes in English): juliabausenhardt.com Take part in an annual nature journaling week, with challenges, prompts, and participants from a worldwide community: naturejournalingweek.com Follow the blog of a lifelong nature journalist and educator: jeanmackayart.com
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One of the best parts of nature journaling is sharing the joyful practice with others. I’ve taught nature journaling workshops to grade school classes and college students, adults who hadn’t touched a sketchbook in decades, and to teachers who want to use the techniques with their students. Most of the people in my classes love spending time outdoors and want to enhance their hikes or adventures. But almost universally, everyone in my journaling workshops believe they are “bad” at art. Breaking through this mindset is tough. It’s established early, usually after an attempt to faithfully recreate a scene or object goes pear-shaped. This is where the concept of drawing as a practice comes in handy. Nobody starts out their first day on a bike as Lance Armstrong, or their first session on a guitar as Jimi Hendrix. View sketching as a skill to learn, not just an innate talent, and find satisfaction in improving over time. Most importantly, keep trying just for the fun of it. There’s always a fresh page to fill with your adventures in the outdoors, and no wrong way to fill it. I’ve taken my sketchbooks around the world, from the cenotes of Mexico to the Hausmann-designed boulevards of Paris. But without a doubt, my favorite place to draw is here, at home on the Chesapeake. With every turn of the tide or change of the season, down a river’s branch or a new trail, there’s something fresh to see and sketch. And each image is a little thank you note of appreciation for this beautiful place. I’m already itching for pens and watercolors for the pages of sketchbooks I’ll start in the decades to come, all of them full of celebration and gratitude. Kate Livie is a Chesapeake writer, educator, and historian. An Eastern Shore native and current faculty at Washington College’s Center for Environment and Society, Livie’s award-winning book Chesapeake Oysters was published in 2015.
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TALK OF THE BAY
Meet Captain Doc
The New Oldest Tugboat Man in Baltimore
JIM BURGER
by Rafael Alvarez
“When I was young, the old-timers told me they wouldn’t hire a cook on the boat unless they had a big belly…” - Harold W. Thompson, oldtimer
A
t age 96, Harold “Captain Doc” Thompson reigns as the oldest tugboat man in Baltimore. He assumed the title this past February with the death of 99-year-old engineer Bill Bobac. Each had curious paths to the waterfront (Thompson with Curtis Bay Towing, Bobac at Baker-Whiteley), nearly impossible in today’s heavily regulated maritime industry. Bobac originally ran a Pratt Street bar where men from the tugs cashed
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their checks. Noticing that the mariners made a penny somewhat prettier than his own, he had one of his regulars put in a word for him and was hired by the Arundel Company as a wiper in the engine room. Once on the job, when asked why he didn’t know a fuel line from a feed pump, Bobac replied: “I’m a bartender.” The engineer just shook his head and Bobac learned quickly enough all he needed to know to work the waterfront for years to come. A fishing pole led Thompson to a long career on the Chesapeake Bay. The son of a tenant farmer who raised wheat, corn and cattle on land across
Left: At age 96, Harold ‘Captain Doc’ Thompson is the newest oldest tugboat man in Baltimore, seen here with a model of one of his tugs.
When Marion E. Warren took this photo, ‘Tug Rendezvous, Patapsco River, 1968,’ Capt. Doc Thompson might very well have been
MARION E. WARREN COLLECTION, MARYLAND STATE ARCHIVES, MSA SC 1890-1-2929. COURTESY M. E. WARREN PHOTOGRAPHY LLC
at the helm of this Curtis Bay tugboat.
July/August 2022
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from the old Milton Inn in Sparks (once an 18th-century stagecoach stop), Thompson was fishing at a limestone pond one day during World War II when a nearby angler said he worked on tugs in the city. “He asked if I wanted to take a ride and I went that Sunday,” said Thompson. “I was working [another job] in Curtis Bay so the next day I went down to the pier to talk to the [tugboat] personnel manager. He said, ‘Boy, you’re too young. Get the hell out of here.’ ” But then the man paused for a moment. It was the Memorial Day holiday, 1943—a good year before the storming of Normandy—and most able-bodied men were in the service. “They were short-handed and the guy said he’d take me on for one day.” One day turned out to be more than a half-century with Curtis Bay Towing Company as the farm boy worked his way up to captain over the course of a long and respected career. By the time Thompson’s son Sam came along in the 1980s with a yearning for the life of a boatman, everything had changed. “When I talked to the boss, they said they’d hire me but I’d have to go to school for a couple of years,” said Sam, now 61, a retired heavy equipment mechanic. “I said, ‘You don’t understand, I know this. I grew up with this. I don’t need school, I need a job.’” Management didn’t agree and the missed opportunity is one of the younger Thompson’s biggest regrets. The master of the tug Cape Romaine when he retired in 1987, Harold Thompson experienced just about everything one can encounter on the Bay, including a few worthy of Ahab. “Did I tell you the whale story?” he asks as we sit in a lobby at the Masonic Home in Cockeysville where Thompson is not—by a longshot—the oldest resident. Not only is he six years behind a woman of 102, she still takes PHOTO BY STEVE ALLAN
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the stairs and regularly beats the old seafarer at gin rummy and pinochle. All kinds of vessels have come and gone from the Port of Baltimore since Fell’s Point was settled in 1670, from L. Ron Hubbard’s four-masted schooner the Doris Hamlin to friendly warships representing countries around the world. But few have arrived with a leviathan on their bow. Thompson encountered the marvel twice. “One time I took over a ship from the pilot and he said they’d been losing speed for two days and didn’t know why,” said Thompson of the 1976 experience. “I told him to get his mate to look over the bow—and over it was a dead whale.” He tried to shake it loose “in the stream” of the harbor without luck and, upon docking in Dundalk, called the Coast Guard. The big boys’ solution? Just leave it there. As if the Back River Wastewater Treatment plant
“I told him to get his mate to look over the bow — and over it was a dead whale.” - Harold W. Thompson
wasn’t perfume enough for that hard-working part of town. “I said wait a minute,” recalled Thomspon, “when low tide comes and that whale gets under a pier, it’s going to stink like hell.” The better idea was to call a truck and have the beast hauled off to a soap factory. It happened once more, about five years
earlier. “We backed off [and] the wash from the wheel [propeller] forced it off,” said Thompson. “They hauled out to sea and blew it up.” He was adept not just at dead whales, but dead tows as well. “I worked with Doc when I was a deckhand with Curtis Bay,” said Robert Lukowski, a native Fells Pointer from South Ann Street who recently retired as a docking pilot in Long Beach, Calif. “I remember him as a gentleman who treated his crew well. And he was always sober, which was kind of rare in those days.” Lukowski is from an old Baltimore seafaring family. His late grandmother, the former Veronica Kisling, was the daughter of a stevedore and ran a boarding house for sailors at 1718 Thames Street, now a seafood bar called Riptide. His uncle, Jerome Lukowski, was a tugboat
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contemporary of Thompson with Baker-Whiteley tugs that docked on the opposite side of the Broadway Recreation Pier. Working harbors on both coasts for more than 40 years, Robert said he guided some 18,000 “ship moves” in his career. When it comes to pushing ships in and out of berths, he knows what he’s talking about. “He was a dead ship expert very, very precise in his piloting,” said Lukowski, who remembered Thompson’s work piers along Bethlehem Steel’s Sparrows Point plant. Typically modest, Thompson replied, “I don’t know if I was an expert or not. Everything depended on the wind and the tide. They used to have a lot of ship launchings at Sparrows Point and when one came down the building ways we’d catch ’em and take them to the pier.”
“I remember him as a gentleman who treated his crew well. And he was always sober, which was kind of rare in those days.” - Robert Lukowski But does a talent for parking ships qualify one for a medical license? “I got the nickname Doc when I was still a sailor,” said Thompson. “I was in the galley studying for my mate’s license and had to get my first-aid certification. An old engineer comes into the galley for
coffee and says, ‘What are you going to be, a doctor? You’re too damn dumb to get any kind of license.’” Where some of the men who ran with the Lukowski boys might have dropped the jerk with a hard right to the jaw, Thompson ignored the man and kept studying. Three weeks later, he passed his Coast Guard exam and received a mate’s license. “We were eating in the galley again, eating breakfast,” he recalled. “I said, ‘Chief, I got something to show you’ and pulled out my license. That’s how it started with Doc. Some guys on the waterfront didn’t even know my proper name.”
Rafael Alvarez worked on the City Desk of the Baltimore Sun from 1981 to 2001. He can be reached via orlo.leini@ gmail.com.
BEAUTY ON THE BAY
INSPIRED.
Hampton, Virginia boasts excitement, beauty, and adventure as vast as the open seas! Climb aboard the Miss Hampton and tour Chesapeake Bay, or charter a boat and explore the Atlantic Ocean. Feel the rush of adrenaline-pumping watersports, or cast a line for a relaxing time at one of our world-famous fishing piers. Savor the moment, and the flavors, with a mouthwatering seafood feast freshly prepared by our talented chefs. inspired at VisitHampton.com Get inspi
July/August 2022
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CHESAPEAKE ALMANAC
Big Fun in Little Boats
Chesapeake Voyages of Discovery, 21st Century Style by Capt. John Page Williams
with proper wind are satisfactory. That tradition misses way too many of the Chesapeake’s most interesting waterways, as anyone who has explored rivers like the Nanticoke can attest. Note the vessels of the Chesapeake’s original explorers: a millennium of Algonkian dugout canoes, then Capt. Smith’s aptly named 30-foot-long Discovery barge in the years 1607–09. Small(ish) boats allowed them to investigate not only the Bay’s mainstem but also virtually all of the rivers, creeks, and coves of
MARYLAND DNR
STEPHEN BADGER/MARYLAND DNR
T
he August issue of Chesapeake Bay Magazine will be our annual Weekends on the Water issue. In preparation for that, let’s talk about exploring our Chesapeake in smaller boats. The Bay’s tidal system includes somewhere close to 6,000 miles (statute) of navigable water for us to discover, so what is out there to see, and what kinds of boats are appropriate? Tradition has held for too long that a large boat with overnight accommodations—preferably under sail—is necessary for proper cruising, and that only broad, open waters
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this sprawling ecosystem. Note, too the degree to which such travel—by oar, paddle, sail and even power— puts even the 21st-century explorers into intimate proximity not just with immediate weather conditions but also the effects of recent conditions, especially as they have affected current, wind, tides, and salinity, as well as the flow of the seasons. With the variations in climate and recent weather throughout the Chesapeake’s sprawling watershed from southwest Virginia north to Cooperstown, N.Y., and east to the Virginia Capes, our Bay system is never the same minute to minute, much less day to day, month to month, or year to year. When we sharpen our observation skills, both in preparation and on the water, they help us contemplate how the parts of the Chesapeake fit together or transition gradually from one to another. They also challenge us to think about how the progression of the seasons affects the system. A useful point of view combines human and natural history, the opportunities and challenges the Chesapeake ecosystem presents to us, and the way we have learned to live with it or damage it. Remember that we
humans are very much creatures of the system, and dependent on it. Your portal to observation and contemplation can be something like birding or fishing, or maritime history. It helps to focus on looking for something, whether an eagle taking off
Follow your own interests and curiosity. Researching the waterway in question ahead of time is a good way to start. from a nearby tree, a school of white perch on an oyster reef or the pilings of an old steamboat wharf. A focused search sharpens all of the senses, but how do you begin the process? First, follow your own interests and curiosity. Researching the waterway in question ahead of time is a good way to start. Unlike Capt. Smith or the pre-1600 Indians, we have a vast array of resources available on bookshelves,
online, and even aboard our boats. The list of books about the Chesapeake is vast. Just Google books about the Chesapeake Bay, and dive into a topic that piques your interest. Consider that we can literally scout a trip ahead of time with several free versions of Google Earth or the virtual tours offered by the Chesapeake Conservancy, and that even a smart phone can serve as a GPS chartplotter. Yes, it will display not just your position but also the shape of the bottom beneath your boat, if you have installed an inexpensive chart app from C-MAP or Navionics. If you opt for fishing mode, the app will even show bottom contours in one-foot increments, giving you a detailed threedimensional sense of the waterway on which you are travelling. Add an electronic fishfinder, even an inexpensive one, and you’ll get a real-time look at what is going on below. Yes, it will display fish, and in time you may even learn to distinguish different species from the marks on the screen, but you’ll also see features like bars, oyster reefs and holes, as well as human structures like old wharf pilings and wrecks. It’s easy to learn to distinguish hard and soft bottom. During my years running school field trips on
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STEPHEN BADGER/MARYLAND DNR
Bay tributaries with the Chesapeake Bay Foundation’s original canoe fleet, I carried an old-style portable fishfinder that taught me a vast amount about how tidal rivers and creeks shape themselves by moving sand, gravel and mud around. It was especially useful in learning how those rivers take on their distinctive meandering pattern. Yes, I used it to catch fish, but it taught me plenty about how both the Indian tribes and the English sited their villages, towns, and commercial wharves around those meanders. The Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail is a reasonable starting point, looking both back to the Native communities that preceded the arrival of the English and forward to today. There are plenty of research sources to get you started. Just understand that the founding of Jamestown in 1607 marks a point in time. Consider that the map Capt. Smith published in 1612, the first accurate representation of the Bay and its tributaries, opened up the region to English colonization in the seventeenth century. As they had for the Natives, our waterways gave the English instant infrastructure in a land without roads, reaching all the way to the heads of navigation on the big rivers of both
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This kind of quiet, slow, participatory travel opens the senses of sight, sound, touch and even smell to the surroundings. shores. Note that the Chesapeake Conservancy offers a free, book-length, online Boater’s Guide to Capt. Smith’s Trail. It’s designed to serve folks in every sort of craft from kayaks and skiffs to trawlers. So what kinds of boats are appropriate? First, consider what is appropriate where. I believe everyone should have an opportunity to explore the Chesapeake’s small waterways while self-propelled, whether aboard a kayak, canoe, standup paddleboard, or proper rowing boat. This kind of quiet, slow, participatory travel opens the senses of sight, sound, touch, and even smell to the surroundings. There’s no better way to experience a tidal creek, whether it’s in the Big Salt Marsh of Poquoson’s Plumtree
Island National Wildlife Refuge, the wild rice marshes of the Choptank’s Tuckahoe Creek, or hundreds of other waterways from Havre de Grace, Md. to Virginia Beach, Va. Areas like those are particularly interesting to paddle multiple times through the seasons of a year to watch the progression of flora and fauna. The range of launch facilities for these craft around the Chesapeake is large and growing, as is the equipment available for carrying them easily and safely on the roofs of even small vehicles. That said, there are values in moderate speed. Spend a lot of time paddling a particular section of a waterway and you’ll begin to wonder what’s around the next bend. That’s where judicious use of a powerboat is helpful in learning how the different parts of the creek or river fit together. After a lot of 2- to 4-mile trips with students on rivers like the Patuxent, Pocomoke and Rappahannock with the CBF canoe fleet, I’ve taken great delight in exploring those rivers and others aboard 14–20' outboard skiffs, especially First Light, my faithful Boston Whaler Montauk 17. Cruising at 15 knots with her four-stroke outboard is efficient and speedy enough to explore 30–40 miles of river in a day with time
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RANGER KATY BARGER MD DNR
for stops to idle, drift or stretch legs on shore. Often such trips are out and back to the same landing, allowing the first leg to absorb the basics of the route, with the return dedicated to absorbing the details. My skiff carries a pushpole that helps out in skinny spots. She and her sisters are easy to tow behind a mid-size pickup or utility vehicle, and the list of launch ramps around the Chesapeake is huge. I have no idea how many different ramps First Light has been on, but it’s north of 50, stretching from the Harrisburg pool on the Susquehanna all the way down to the southern branch of the Elizabeth River, on both sides of the Bay. The realities of most of our lives mean day trips and weekends are the easiest to schedule. Even so, just as some folks have done huge chunks of the Appalachian Trail one day at a time, so can boaters explore the Chesapeake in small chunks with boats carried on cartops or trailers. At the larger end of the skiff spectrum, if well equipped and operated with prudence, these boats are perfectly capable of venturing
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The advent of larger but still efficient fourstroke outboards makes 20–28' centerand dual-console boats good choices for another kind of cruising. across open waters, even to Tangier and Smith Islands. As to spending a weekend with an open boat, our region is loaded with overnight accommodations, and county tourism offices are eager to help with information. What do you need for a day, and what for a night: regional, state, and county parks, campgrounds, local B&Bs, motels of all grades, luxury hotels? Admittedly, facilities are rustic up many of the rivers, but that’s the point for many of us. Saturday
breakfast on shore, a thermos of coffee, a picnic lunch with snacks afloat, a nice supper back ashore, a comfortable bed, and the same format again on Sunday can make for a sumptuous Chesapeake weekend. By the way, the advent of larger but still efficient four-stroke outboards makes 20–28' center- and dual-console boats good choices for another kind of cruising. These boats are large enough to be comfortable for long trips, with stops overnight for shoreside accommodations, and their shallow draft allows them to prowl most of the rivers effectively. Cruising sail- and powerboats have a long, proud history around the Chesapeake Bay, but you don’t have to own or charter one to experience all that this remarkable waterway has to offer. Pick your favorite small(er) boat and go discover.
CBM Editor-at-Large John Page Williams is a fishing guide, educator, author and naturalist, saving the Bay since 1973.
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ON BOATS
Ranger R-43 Command Bridge by Capt. John Page Williams
Ranger R-43 Command Bridge
COURTESY PHOTOS
LOA: 46'9" (w/ transom platform) Beam: 14' Draft: 42" Weight: 33,000 lb (estimated) Bridge Clearance: 13'9" (mast down),
20'6" (mast up) Fuel Capacity: 300 gal Water Capacity: 120 gal Waste Capacity: 57 gal Cabin Headroom: 6'4" For more information, visit rangertugs.com and pocketyachtco.com.
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W
hen we took a sea trial of a Ranger R-43 CB in the broad, open Chesapeake off the Northern Neck, her owners were preparing for a roughly 6,500mile, year-long cruise of America’s Great Loop. By the time you read this review, she and her people will have made it up the Hudson into the Erie Canal, headed for Lake Erie. She’s an ideal boat for a couple to take on this iconic cruise around the eastern United States, with comfortable living accommodations, good seakeeping abilities for a coastal cruiser, a shallow draft (42") and efficient high and low cruising speeds (18 and 7 knots, respectively).
Coastal cruising is at the heart of the Ranger Tugs brand, and the R-43 CB is the largest model in the line. The company is based in Auburn, Wash., so both employees and customers cruise their boats in Puget Sound, the San Juan Islands and neighboring British Columbia’s Gulf Islands and Queen Charlotte Strait, inside Vancouver Island. Such boats are also naturals for cruising our Chesapeake, with a customerservice-oriented dealer in Pocket Yachts of Grasonville, Md., whose motto is aptly “Live life at sea level.” We got a good, real-world illustration of the R-43 CB’s capabilities in our sea trial, with northeast winds in the mid-teens, 2–3' seas with short
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Clockwise from above: The U-shaped galley features an over/under fridge/freezer. The master cabin boasts an island queen berth. The pilothouse/saloon has a dinette that converts to another queen berth.
periods and spitting rain. Ranger builds the boat for the rainy Pacific Northwest, with vertical pilothouse windows, triple windshield wipers and Rain-X that sprays from the washer reservoir. Running into those nasty head seas at speeds in the teens, the bow threw up plenty of spray but the vertical windowpanes and Rain-X cleared our view even without the wipers. Meanwhile, the variable deadrise hull and lifting strakes kept the ride soft with plenty of buoyancy, while the boat’s MC2X Quick Gyro Stabilizer (optional, $66,150) kept rolling to a minimum. Throttled back to “trawler speed,” the R-43 jogged ahead confidently, though riding it in such seas would still make for a long day. “This boat will take more sea than her people will want,” noted her experienced owner as he piloted through the slop. She will clearly bring her crew home safely if caught out in such weather, but most cruisers will 26
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elect to stay in port in such conditions unless on a tight schedule. Concerning tight schedules, the R-43 CB is perfectly capable of meeting them when necessary. Standard power is twin Volvo-Penta IPS-450 forward-facing, dual-propeller pod drives fired by 340-hp electronic D6 diesels. Eighteen knots, with the engines turning happily at 2700 rpm, can cover a lot of water in a 12-hour day, with a range of 220 nautical miles at that speed. At the same time, normal cruising “trawler speed” of 7 knots (1200 rpm) yields a range of
about 540 nautical miles. The master cabin at the bow offers an island queen berth with storage beneath. It is open and bright, with no fewer than 16 windows of varying sizes admitting light around three sides and overhead (including two opening hatches). To starboard are a lounge for comfortable reading, watching television or changing footwear; a hanging locker; and a convenient “office” nook, with a desk and space to the side for a printer. To port lie the enclosed head with innovative circular shower door (“There’s room inside to
There's plenty of room on the dash for the 22" Garmin electronic display and other arrays. The glass door slides open for visibility while docking with the joystick.
towel off with the door closed,” remarked the owner), a large flat-screen television, and a long storage cabinet that includes a panel of controls for lighting and climate control. For comfortable living during a cruise, the combined pilothouse/saloon shines. Surrounded by windows, it is bright and airy, with reverse-cycle air conditioning and heat standard. The helm to starboard features twin, individually adjustable seats facing a dash with a 22" Garmin electronic display, an auxiliary 7" Garmin display, and a 7" Volvo display for drivetrain
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Finally… the perfect Oyster Opener Chip the Shell, Shuck the Oyster!
Ranger Tugs are reknowned for their ingenious use of space, like this "office nook" tucked into the corner of the master cabin.
theOysterOpener.com information. The throttle/shift levers and maneuvering joystick mount to the right of the skipper’s seat where the right hand naturally falls on them. Immediately beside them is a sliding door to the side deck, making it easy for the skipper to lean out for a clear view while maneuvering beside a dock with the joystick. The boat has no thrusters, but the twin IPS drives can pivot independently with the joystick, so you can make the boat slide sideways when desired. Volvo’s Dynamic Positioning System (DPS) is optional ($11,025) for holding the vessel on point when docking or waiting for a drawbridge. The helm also includes video cameras for the skipper to monitor the engine room and stern deck. A 7.5 kW Westerbeke genset with 30-gal diesel tank charges batteries and provides AC power when necessary. To port is a comfortable dinette that seats four and converts to a queen-sized berth when a switch lowers its electrically articulated table. Aft of it is the galley, a U-shaped area beside but completely out of the central walkway. The galley includes two large work surfaces, a butcher block, a double sink,
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a propane stove with three burners and oven, an over/under refrigerator/freezer and a microwave. An opening window in the aft bulkhead serves as a dumbwaiter to pass food out to the capacious cockpit. On the starboard side of the saloon, a leather recliner sits on a sturdy stainless base immediately behind the helm seats. Aft of it is an L-shaped lounge with another table. Behind this lounge is the entrance to a guest cabin with standing headroom, another queen berth and another enclosed head with shower. Efficient use of space is one area in which Ranger Tugs takes pride. “If there’s a way to include more functionality per foot, our engineers will find it,” the company likes to say. They are in fact ingenious. For starters, look closely at the portside dinette. At the touch of a nearby switch, the table and the footwell around it rise to reveal a standup-high, below-deck compartment with a washer and dryer, extra refrigerator and freezer, and pantry storage. The design team programmed the dinette’s table to retract as the module rises to prevent damage to the adjacent saloon
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window. Another switch lowers the table partway to turn the dinette into yet another queen-sized bunk. The cockpit and full-beam, 36"-deep transom platform form a large outside space, with the former shaded by a hardtop and the latter, if desired, with a fabric sunshade. Gated openings port and starboard allow access from the cockpit to the platform. Three snug-fitting, insulated lazarette hatches on electric rams provide good access to the engines and pod drives for daily checks and maintenance. They also ensure quiet operation. The focal point of the cockpit space is a pair of three-person lounges with tables that can face forward side-by-side, rotate to face each other with the tables coming together, or turn aft side-by-side for sunset watching. Behind them in the base of the transom platform is a wide compartment for multiple propane tanks, readily accessed by a pair of hatches. The cockpit also includes a
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The command bridge is protected by an optional bimini top that folds forward to reduce bridge clearance.
sink with icemaker to port and steps to the upper Command Bridge to starboard. Tucked under the lower step’s hinged tread is an after helm with joystick for docking. The stairs lead to the upper deck, with a mount for a 12' RIB dinghy ($16,535 with 20-hp outboard, small Garmin chartplotter/sounder and safety kit) beside a davit lift for launching. A folding mast mounts radar, VHF, GPS and other antennas. The Command Bridge forward centers around a complete upper helm with 16" Garmin electronic display, seating for eight around a removable table, and a summer galley with sink, refrigerator, countertop and electric grill. An optional Bimini top ($6,615) shades the
space but folds forward to reduce bridge clearance. Cockpit steps port and starboard provide careful access to the side decks. The decks are only 6" wide, but Ranger advertises “safe access to the bow with our exclusive Secure-Path extrusion, which provides positive traction and additional surface area.” The extrusion adds a couple of inches of width and slants upward, helping secure even wide feet, and well-placed handrails all the way to the bow pulpit provide security. The pulpit and foredeck hold mounts and lockers for a pair of anchors with rode and chain. One windlass on the port side, with controls at the bow and the helm, and a 44-lb anchor with 100' of chain and 225' of line are standard. There is a mount to starboard for an aftermarket windlass. The foredeck also includes a fold-down cushioned seat for two over the master cabin. The owners of our test boat, who
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National Folk Festival Debuts in Salisbury
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CBM Editor-at-Large, educator, guide, and author of three quintessential Chesapeake Bay books, Capt. John Page Williams was named a Maryland Admiral of the Bay in 2013.
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had previously owned a smaller Ranger, opted for the company’s optional Factory Delivery Experience ($11,025), which includes three days’ instruction in the boat’s systems, handling and maintenance, held at the Auburn plant and on Puget Sound and conducted by an experienced customer service team. They highly recommend it. Ranger strives to offer “the best ownership experience.” The company motto is, “You’re not just buying a boat, you’re joining our family.” That holds true throughout North America, with an online hub, tugnuts.com; Facebook, Instagram and YouTube pages; a company blog, The Ranger Tugs MAGAZINE Journal; and regional rendezvous, plus a huge annual factory rendezvous. There’s also a full-time customer care Enjoy the View From the Top of the Bay team available to help with problems by phone and online. Such community and customer service will support our test boat on the Loop until she crosses her wake around this time next year, when she returns to her homeport in Virginia. What’s next for her then? Well, her owners will take some time to settle back into life ashore with their children and grandchildren, but they are already curious about the Chesapeake’s all-water, 1,800-mile Captain John Smith National Historic Trail, following Capt. Smith’s explorations of the Bay and its tidal rivers in the early seventeenth century. Their Ranger R-43 CB is ideal for following the trail allDORCHESTER the COUNTY’S Muskrat Love way to the heads of navigation on our WATCHING FOR WHALES A Maritime Mystery Bay’s rivers. But that’s yet another story for this long-legged boat and her GEARING UP AT THE BALTIMORE BOAT SHOW 74 adventurous crew. The MSRP as tested for the Ranger R-43 CB with twin Volvo IPS-450 is $1,099,937.
Winter Crab Count Predicts Bay Harvest
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2022 Marina
SHOWCASE New boat buyers on the quest for slips at Chesapeake Bay marinas
T
he growth in the sale of boats has been unprecedented over the past two years, as reported by the National Marine Manufacturer’s Association, the Chicago-based nonprofit industry organization that follows these trends. Most recently, they’ve seen sales begin to normalize as consumer spending shifts from high-ticket items to goods and services. While they expect boat sales to be a bit down this year compared to the last two record sales years, they expect that 2022 boat sales will still meet or exceed pre-pandemic levels. Americans purchased about 300,000 new powerboats in 2021, the second year in a row that the industry has reached that number in nearly 15 years. New powerboat retail sales ended 2021 down 5.2% from a 13-year high in 2020; but again, that was still higher than pre-pandemic levels. Annual U.S. sales of boats, marine products and services totaled $54 billion in 2021, up 9% from 2020. One key reason for this boom, the organization reports, is that more and more Americans who have never owned a boat before are buying new and previously owned boats for the first time. Data show that 420,000 firsttime boat buyers entered the market in 2021 – on par with 2020, a record year. First-time boat buyers accounted for 34% of boat sales in 2021. Many of those new boat owners are going to be looking for a slip at a marina where they can keep their new boat, and at least one manager of an upper Bay resort marina assures that it’s not too late to find a good slip. Here are some parameters he suggests you look for when you’re shopping for the ideal marina: Amenities Some marinas are full-fledged resorts, with swimming pools, restaurants, dockside bars and spa-like bathhouses. More stoic types might prefer just a dock with water and electrical hookups.
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Type of pier The size and shape of your boat could dictate whether you’d prefer a fixed dock to one that floats, an extended finger pier or an outside T-dock to tie up to. Not many multihulls will fit into a conventional slip. Smaller boats can be kept stacked in a rack in a boatel and launched when you want to use them, which drastically limits their exposure to harsh marine elements, lowers maintenance costs, extends the boat’s useful life and increases its resale value.
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On-site services Full-service marinas have boat lifts to haul your boat when it needs repair and a yard where your boat can be stored for the winter high and dry. They’ll also have a range of either in-house or independent experts who can tend to engine maintenance, electrical issues, bottom painting and cleaning, and other essential services to keep your boat in top-operating condition.
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Here are some marinas worthy of considering. You might plan some of this season’s excursions around visiting some of these sites and judge for yourself which one is best for you and your new boat.
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HAVEN HARBOUR MARINA 20880 Rock Hall Ave Rock Hall, Maryland 410.778.6697
HAVEN HARBOUR SOUTH 21144 Green Lane Rock Hall, Maryland 410.778.6697
Marinas that Check All the Right Boxes Our premier slips, conveniently situated on the prime cruising grounds of the Chesapeake Bay, offer you access to a wide array of amenities, yacht services and one-of-a-kind experiences. Book your visit today at HAVENHARBOUR.COM.
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UPPER BAY 1
TOMES LANDING 1000 Rowland Drive Port Deposit, Md. 21904 410-378-3343 tomeslandingmarina.com HOURS Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8am-7pm, Sun 8am-7pm DOCKAGE All dockage is inside two 30,000 sq foot boatels. Up to 43’ FUEL Gas, 89 Octane AMENITIES Private Membership, Sale of new Hacker-Craft, Velocity and Bennington boats as well as the sale of pre-owned boats. Mercury, Yamaha, Volvo Penta and Ilmor service. Installation of accessories and parts.
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MCDANIEL YACHT BASIN 15 Grandview Ave North East, Md. 21901 443-273-5748 nomadmarinasatmcdanielyachtbasin.com HOURS 8:30am- 5pm during week, 10 to 4 on Sat/Sun DOCKAGE Transient & Annual FUEL Diesel, Gasoline AMENITIES Bait and tackle, a fuel dock, boat storage options, repair/ maintenance services, and a pool. MARINE SERVICES The marina has more than 20 acres of well-protected anchorage and has more than 200 wet slips that can accommodate vessels up to 70 feet.
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SHELTER COVE YACHT BASIN
230 Riverside Drive North East, Md. 21901 443-273-5783 nomadmarinasatsheltercove.com HOURS Office: Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, High and Dry: 9am-3pm DOCKAGE Transient & Annual FUEL Diesel, Gasoline AMENITIES Electric, cable hookups, a fuel dock, boat storage, local restaurants MARINE SERVICES 150 wet slips, 28 of which are covered, the marina can accommodate vessels up to 50 feet. High/dry rack storage capacity for 100 boats with year around forklift service is also available.
Voted Best Marina in Baltimore Reader’s Choice 2021 - Baltimore Sun
410.335.3553
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Calve alvert al vert Marina vert arina
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SOLOMONS, MD
510 Riviera Drive, Joppa, Md. 21085 667-309-9336 gunpowdercovemarina.com HOURS Monday - Suday 8:30am - 4:30pm DOCKAGE Transient & annual FUEL Gasoline, 89 & 93 Octane AMENITIES 270 Wet Slips, 300 Inside / Outside High & Dry Racks, Gated Access and Security, Fuel Service (89 / 93 octane), Ice, Boat Ramp, Parts and Supplies Store, Bath Houses, Picnic Areas with Grills. WiFi MARINE SERVICES Pumpout, Basic Marine Repair
ALFRESCO MARINA Means having dozens of picnic tables, over 40 acres of open space for dogs, kids and fun, walking paths, plentiful parking, large pool and deck, outdoor dining, a beach, lots of room to breathe and enjoy nature and view wildlife. We also have several 35’ COVERED SLIPS as well as floating TRANSIENT SLIPS.
5
410-326-4251
CALVERTMARINA . COM
HOURS 8am-5pm DOCKAGE Call for pricing FUEL Gas, Diesel AMENITIES Fuel dock, pump-out, pool, bathhouse, WiFi, clubhouse/ bar, playground, gazebos, firepits, boat ramp, marine store, gated property, social events MARINE SERVICES Mechanic onsite, bottom painting
OASIS MARINAS AT GUNPOWDER COVE
BOWLEYS MARINA 1700 Bowleys Quarters Rd Middle River, Md. 21220 410-335-3553 bowleysmarina.com
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TOLCHESTER MARINA 20 miles north of Chesapeake Bay Bridge 21085 Tolchester Beach Rd Chestertown, Md. 21620 410-778-14009 Tolchestermarina.com HOURS M-F 8:30am-4:30pm Sat 9am-4pm DOCKAGE 263 slips, featuring covered and open, with floating and fixed docks, accommodating vessels to 60 feet LOA. Transient dockage $2.50/foot per night
North East, MD North East, MD
Introducing Nomad by Oasis Marinas! Experience Remarkable®for a few nights or an entire season.
Service • Storage • Community nomadmarinas.com 36
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Deltaville, VA
plus electricity. Seasonal and annual contracts available. FUEL Diesel and Gasoline AMENITIES Saltwater swimming pool, private beach, waterfront pavilion for special events, the Shanty Beach Bar, fuel dock, pump-out, ice, laundry facilities, slip holder exercise room, The Channel restaurant, picnic area, recently remodeled bathrooms. MARINE SERVICES Full-service and repairs. Fully stocked parts department, award-winning service department, 50-ton Travel Lift. Mechanical repairs and re-powers by factory trained mechanics, wood and fiberglass repairs. 7
HARBOR EAST MARINA 40 International Drive Baltimore, Md. 410-625-1700 harboreastmarina.com HOURS Sunday - Thursday:
8am - 5pm Friday - Saturday: 8:00am - 8:00pm DOCKAGE Transient & Annual FUEL None AMENITIES Gated access, Ice, Clean and well-appointed boater lounge, Laundry/bath facilities, Complimentary Oasis Marinas Cruisers Club membership (only for annual slipholders), Tented Party Pad Onsite, Discounted passes to the Maryland Athletic Club, Provisions nearby, Restaurants, bars and retailers nearby, Hotels nearby, Water Taxi and Charm City Circulator nearby, Dry cleaning facilities nearby MARINE SERVICES Floating docks, with full length finger piers, Ipe decking, Wireless internet, 30, 50, and 100 AMP (single and three phase) shore power are available,
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INNER HARBOR MARINA 400 Key Highway Baltimore, Md. 21230 410-837-5339 baltimoreinnerharbormarina.com HOURS Sun-Thurs: 8am-5pm Fri & Sat: 9am-5pm DOCKAGE Transient & annual FUEL Diesel, Gasoline AMENITIES Restrooms, Showers, Pet Friendly, WiFi, Retail Nearby, Pump-Out, Restaurant Nearby, Ice, Laundry, Parking, Fuel, Security, Hotel/Lodging Nearby, Lounge On-Site Bars/Clubs Nearby, Restaurant On-Site, Floating Docks, Provisions, Hardware, Cable TV, ATM, Medical Facilities Nearby, Post Office Within 1 Mile, Fitness Center, Disability Access, Lockers, Water Taxi, Bathhouse, Picnic Area, Ship Store, Swimming Pool Nearby MARINE SERVICES Fuel & Pump-Out
GROU PS, P R IVA TE EV EN & SUP E R YA T S , CHTS W E LC OME!
with access to the city’s most prestigious neighborhood including luxury hotels, 5-star restaurants, and local retailers
410-625-1700 40 International Drive Baltimore, MD 21202 harboreastmarina.com 39° 16’ 57” N / 76° 36’ 7.38” W
Direct Access to the Chesapeake Bay
2022 Premium Lift Slips Available • Full Service Marina Mechanical, Carpentry, Teak, Varnishing, Paint, Fiberglass, Gelcoat, Rigging, Lifelines • Air-conditioned Bathhouses • Easy Access Fuel Dock • Land Storage • WiFi • Transient Slips Available
LOCATED ON THE MOUTH OF SWAN CREEK • 5924 Lawton Ave. | Rock Hall, MD 21661
410-639-7011 | www.gmarina.com Affiliated with Osprey Point Marina
Experience Charm City! • Walking
distance to Baltimore’s best attractions
•
Services vessels up to 300ft with 135 boat slips, and fuel
•
In the heart of the historic Inner Harbor and upbeat Baltimore
•
Close to National Aquarium and Camden Yards
• Fun, young, spirited energy
410-837-5339 400 Key Highway Baltimore, MD 21230 baltimoreinnerharbormarina.com 39° 16' 51.276'' N / 76° 36' 32.22'' W
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HAVEN HARBOUR MARINA 20880 Rock Hall Avenue Rock Hall, Md. 21661 410-778-6697 havenharbour.com HOURS Open 7 days a week, 8am-5pm (May-October). Mon-Fri (Oct-April) DOCKAGE 200 floating and fixed slips FUEL Diesel, Gasoline, pump-out AMENITIES Two swimming pools; on-site Passages Bar & Grill; customer lounge; complimentary kayaks, paddelboards and bicycles; fuel dock and pump-out; fullystocked marine store; ice and goods; private bathrooms and showers; laundry; Wi-Fi; petfriendly; event space; security; children’s play area; picnic pavilion; courtesy car and access to local transportation; beach area; storage lockers; on-site sailing charters.
THE NATION’S OLDEST IN-WATER SHOW OF NEW POWERBOATS AllDockedUp Inc.
MARINE SERVICES Heartland Foods Full-service Villageand Assisted Living yachtBay repairs installation & Memory Care including A/C and refrigeration, NRG East bottom maintenance, brightwork Annapolis Hybrid Marine Neptune Boat Lifts and restoration, carpentry, electronics, mechanical, paint Furniture andOutdoor fiberglass, rigging and & E SalesYamaha sales and sails,Mfull-line service and more; 50 MT travelift; Outriggers towing; drop-in and haul-out BOE Marine & RV service up to 110,000 lbs.; yearround dry and wet storage. Oxidation Remover
Gtechniq Marine
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GRATITUDE MARINA Paddleboards
5924Backyard LawtonBoats Ave RockBody HallGlove/Surf9 Md. 21661 410-639-7011• gmarina.com HOURS Paints Mon-Fri / Finishes 8am-4pm, Awlgrip North America Sat-Sun Closed Gtechniq Marine DOCKAGE Fixed piers and lift slips Interlux Yacht Finishes FUELP.Y.I., Gas, Diesel Inc. AMENITIES FullPaint Service Marina, Pettit Marine PROPSPEED air conditioning Bathhouse, WiFi, Picnic tables, bikes and gas dock. MARINE SERVICES Mechanical carpentry, teak work, paint, fiberglass, gel coat, rigging, life lines.
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410.778.1400 21085 Tolchester Beach Road Chestertown, MD 21621
Your Complete Repair & Refit Headquarters FACTORY TRAINED MECHANICS FULL SERVICE MARINA FUEL DOCK (gas & diesel) BEACH BAR CHANNEL RESTAURANT GORGEOUS SUNSETS plus SWIMMING POOL and RIGHT ON THE BAY with 6’ MLW
www.TolchesterMarina.com
24/7 Chesapeake Bay News Delivered straight to your inbox once a week for FREE
OSPREY POINT MARINA
20786 Rock Hall Ave. Rock Hall, Md. 21661 410-639-2194 ospreypoint.com HOURS Mon-Sun 9am-5pm DOCKAGE Floating docks FUEL None AMENITIES Floating Dock, Pool on site, Pool Bar and Grill on the Weekends, 18 Inn Rooms, Restaurant on site ( WednesdaySunday) Grills, Picnic tables, Paddleboard, Annapolis bikes and Kayaks, | 410.349.3105 Air conditioning, Bathhouse, WiFi Easton | 410.690.0977 MARINE SERVICES None www.WalnutHillLandscape.com
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UNITED STATES POWERBOAT SHOW
July/August 2022
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HAVEN HARBOUR SOUTH
21144 Green Lane Rock Hall, Md. 21661 410-778-6697 havenharbour.com HOURS Open 7 days a week, 8am-5pm (May-Oct) Mon-Fri (Oct-April) DOCKAGE 150 floating and fixed slips between both marinas FUEL None AMENITIES Swimming pool; Admirals Club Beachside Bar on-site; customer lounge areas; complimentary kayaks, paddelboards and bicycles; fully-stocked marine store; ice and goods; private bathrooms and showers; coin-operated laundry; Wi-Fi; pet-friendly; event space; security; children’s play areas; picnic pavilion; courtesy car and access to local transportation; beach; lockers; on-site sailing charters.
MARINE SERVICES Full-service yacht repairs and installation including A/C and refrigeration, bottom maintenance, brightwork and restoration, carpentry, electronics, mechanical, paint and fiberglass, rigging and sails; fullline Yamaha sales and service; 35 MT travelift; towing; drop-in and haul-out service up to 70,000 lbs.; year-round dry and wet storage. 13
P INEY NARROWS YACHT HAVEN
500 Piney Narrows Road Chester, MD 21619 410-643-6600 pineynarrowsyachthaven.com HOURS M-Thurs 8:30am-6 pm; Fri & Sat 8:30am-8 pm; Sun 8:30am-7 pm DOCKAGE Transient, Seasonal, and Annual Slip Rental; Also Condo Slips For Sale FUEL Diesel, Gasoline
AMENITIES Gated facility, Heads exclusive to each Dock, Club Lounge, Ship’s Store, Laundry, Ice, Picnic Areas, Designated Parking, free WiFi, Pump-out, Winter Bubbling. Restaurants, Parks & Trails, Golf Nearby. MARINE SERVICES Maintenance & Repair, Canvas on-site.
MIDDLE BAY 14
BAY BRIDGE MARINA
357 Pier One Road Stevensville, Md. 21666 410-643-3162 baybridgemarina.com HOURS Sun-Thu 8am-6pm; Fri & Sat 8am-8pm
HARBOUR COVE MARINA FAMILY OWNED & FAMILY FRIENDLY SINCE 1992
STORAGE, SERVICE & 2022 SLIPS AVAILABLE!
FULL-SERVICE MARINA * * * * * * * * * *
Best Kept Secret on the Chesapeake Bay!
Boatel & Wet Slips On Demand Launch Free Wi-Fi Pool & Picnic Area Kid, Pet & Family Friendly Fuel, Ice & Pump Out High & Dry Storage 24 Hour Security Mechanics On Site Certified Mercury Outboard Dealer
VACATION LANE, DEALE, MD 20751 - WWW.HARBOURCOVE.COM - 301.261.9500 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 5910 July/August 2022 40
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Fri-Sun: 8am-8pm DOCKAGE We offer transient, monthly and annual dockage FUEL Diesel, Gasoline, Ethanol free AMENITIES Floating docks, Libbey’s Coastal Kitchen & Cocktails, outdoor pool, fitness center & sauna, 10 minute boat ride to Annapolis, Captain’s Lounge, laundry room, fuel dock & pump-out, WiFi MARINE SERVICES Full service yard with 25 and 70 ton travel lifts, complete winterizing program, annual storage (wet or dry), bottom painting, pressure washing, haul & launch, shrink wrapping, full service & preventative maintenance 15
ANNAPOLIS CITY MARINA
410 Severn Ave. Annapolis, Md. 21403 410-268-0660 AnnapolisCityMarina.com
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July/August 2022
HOURS M-Th: 9am-7pm; F-Sat: 8am-8pm; Sun: 8am-7pm DOCKAGE Transient & Annual FUEL Diesel, Gasoline, Gasoline is ethanol free AMENITIES Ship store, water, electric, wi-fi, restaurant on site, parking, laundry MARINE SERVICES Pump-out 16
PORT ANNAPOLIS MARINA
7074 Bembe Beach Road, Annapolis, Md. 21403 410-269-1990 • portannapolis.com HOURS Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; Sat/Sun: Closed DOCKAGE 270 slips for annual and transient dockage, catamaran slip available. Price includes water, electric, cable, Wi-Fi, free pumpout, complimentary bikes, and free shuttle to downtown Annapolis FUEL Available nearby AMENITIES Located in park-like
setting, Port Annapolis is a full-service facility for power and sail boats with resort amenities, including cafe, shoreside pool (open 12-8 daily) exercise room, picnic areas, an event pavilion and club room both available for socials and meetings. Five minutes to Historic Annapolis, City Dock, restaurants and shopping. Cruising clubs welcome! Dealer for NauticStar boats. New Annapolis Boat Club on-site. MARINE SERVICES Full services including engine repair and replacement, fiberglass & gelcoat, woodworking, metal fabrication, bottom painting/barrier coating, sailboat rigging, electrical work and electronics installation. 17
C HESAPEAKE BAY MARITIME MUSEUM
213 North Talbot St. St. Michaels, Md. 21663 410-745-4946 cbmm.org/visit/docking/
HERRINGTON HARBOUR SOUTH 7149 Lake Shore Drive North Beach, MD 301.855.5000
HERRINGTON HARBOUR NORTH 389 Deale Road Tracey’s Landing, MD 410.867.4343
Beltway to Bliss in 20 Minutes Discover it all at Herringtonharbour.com
Slips • Moorings • Service Tranquil historic marina located on the West River in Galesville,MD. Now owned and operated by Herrington Harbour July/August 2022
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• 245 FLOATING BOAT SLIPS & FUEL DOCK WITH PUMP-OUT • 30,000 SF OF WATERFRONT OFFICE SPACE • INDOOR & OUTDOOR WATERFRONT DINING • FULL-SERVICE BOAT YARD WITH 25 & 70 TON TRAVEL LIFTS
HOURS Free hourly docking is available from 9am-5pm Sunday through Thursday, and 9am-2pm Friday and Saturday, and is offered only to CBMM members. DOCKAGE Transient FUEL Available nearby AMENITIES Our membersonly marina is open every day and offers amenities including bicycles, picnic tables, and Wi-Fi. St. Michaels also has a harbor shuttle service, a harborside gas and diesel dock, and convenient driver services as well. MARINE SERVICES 55 slips with electric, pump-out services, and climate-controlled showers. • SLIP HOLDER AMENITIES: POOL, SAUNA, FITNESS CENTER, WIFI & DISCOUNTS • LIBBEY’S COASTAL KITCHEN & COCKTAILS NOW OPEN!
500 PINEY NARROWS ROAD, CHESTER, MARYLAND 21619
Kent Narrows Front Door to the Eastern Shore
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4943 Hine Drive Shady Side, Md. 20764 410-867-1500 chesapeakeyachtclub.org HOURS Mon: 9am-5pm, Tues-Wed: 9am-4pm, Thurs: 9am-7pm, Fri-Sat: 9am-9pm, Sun: 9am-7pm DOCKAGE Transient FUEL Diesel, Gasoline, Pump-out AMENITIES Clubhouse, outdoor bar, Pool (Pool Hours: Sat. & Sun. 10 am-7 pm; Mon. 12-7 pm; Thu. 12-7 pm; Fri. 12-7 pm) The club has well-manicured lawns and a stone fireplace for socializing. There is a ramp for launching boats and dedicated floating docks for jet skis and dinghies MARINE SERVICES None 19
• OWN YOUR OWN BOAT SLIP • COVERED & OPEN 30 - 62FT • ANNUAL AND SEASONAL LEASES EASY/QUICK BAY ACCESS • FUEL DOCK • PUMP OUT • GATED FOR SECURITY • POOL • CLUB HOUSE • LAUNDRY • WI-FI • TRANSIENTS WELCOME LOCATION: KENT NARROWS ON MARYLAND’S EASTERN SHORE • Lat: 38 97.38 Lon: 076 24.83
CALL 410-643-6600 FOR MORE DETAILS 44
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WWW. PINEYNARROWSYACHTHAVEN.COM
CHESAPEAKE YACHT CLUB
HARBOUR COVE MARINA
5910 Vacation Lane, Deale, Md. 20751 301-2619500 harbourcove.com HOURS Daily: 9am-5pm DOCKAGE Power Boats 30 feet or less FUEL Gasoline AMENITIES Boatel, covered racks, lift slips wet slips, land storage,
Three convenient locations to serve you.
Campbell’s is your full-service boatyard.
Bachelor Pt.
Latitude 38 Degrees 40.5”N; Longitude 76 Degrees 10.4”W 26106A Bachelors Harbor Drive
410.226.5592 Jack’s Pt. Latitude 38 Degrees 41.3”N; Longitude 76 Degrees 10.06”W 106 Richardson Street
Offering
410.226.5105 Town Creek Latitude 38 Degrees 41.22”N; Longitude 76 Degrees 10.11”W 109 Myrtle Avenue
410.226.0213
oxford, md
Yacht Sales Restoration Repairs Haul-Outs Slip Rentals Dry Storage
Certified Cummins Dealer
Locally owned & operated for 27 years · info@campbellsboatyards.com · www.campbellsboatyards.com
Relax & Enjoy
Lovely waterviews and gorgeous sunsets in a quiet marina setting, just minutes from the best fishing and cruising the Chesapeake Bay has to offer.
KNAPP’S NARROWS DREDGED ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 45 GROUPS WELCOME 800-322-5181 • www.KNAPPSNARROWSMARINA.comJuly/August 2022TRANSIENT
Photo by Gordon Campbell-At Altitude Gallery
the fun you'll have.
20
Shops and Restaurants Nearby FREE Private Showers & Laundry Floating Docks
Virginia’s Eastern Shore
757.787.7911
onancock.com/wharf
MAINTENANCE COMPANY
CHECK US OUT ! In Cambridge, Maryland!
The facilities of a shipyard. The low cost of a neighborhood boatyard. The quality craftsmanship of a custom builder. With deep water access in Cambridge our full time professional staff is poised to handle every aspect of boat building, repair and maintenance.
GIVE US A CALL AND FIND OUT HOW WE CAN HELP YOU!
Cambridge, MD
410-228-8878 • www.yachtmaintenanceco.com 46
pool house, clubhouse, mechanic shop and exceptional bathrooms. MARINE SERVICES In-andout service, detailing, bottom painting, power-washing, shrink-wrapping, gasoline, pump-out and exceptional family level customer service
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SHIPWRIGHT HARBOR MARINA
6047 Herring Bay Road Deale, Md. 20751 410-8677-686 shipwrightharbor.com HOURS Daily from 9am-5pm. DOCKAGE Annual, Transient & Monthly. FUEL Available nearby AMENITIES Private saltwater pool, picnic areas with fire pit and grills, slipholder events, marine WiFi, bikes and kayaks, laundry facilities, storage lockers and dinghy racks, pump-out station and resort style outdoor showers. MARINE SERVICES Hauling, Blocking, Winter Storage, Bottom Painting and Short-Hauls. 21
HERRINGTON HARBOUR NORTH MARINA RESORT & YACHT CENTER
389 Deale Rd Tracey’s Landing, Md. 20779 410-867-4343 herringtonharbour.com/north HOURS Daily: 9am-5pm DOCKAGE Overnight, Weekly, Monthly, Annually FUEL Available nearby AMENITIES Pool, jacuzzi spa and kiddie pool, picnic areas with gas & charcoal grills, playground, outdoor fitness area, eco-trail, dog park, beach style gas firepit, dockside restaurant and sports bar, 4-hour vending lounge, pool bar (seasonal), complimentary slipholder events, outdoor movie nights, free Wi-Fi internet service, marine seminars, laundry rooms (coin operated),
Your gateway to exploring
Kilmarnock’s Historic Main Street • 17 Dedicated transient slips for vessels up to 60’ • 160’ face dock with 100amp service • Welcoming catamarans with beam up to 34’ • Deep-water approach and docking with 6-13’ MLW • Courtesy vehicle for exploring town • Full-service yard with 50-ton TraveLift • ValvTect gasoline and diesel, pumpout station • Onsite laundry
staying Guests ights 3+ n 5-cent a2 e rec iveallon fuel per g credit 22 ugh 20
ro Valid th
NEW ! FLO ATIN TRA G NSI ENT DOC K
ChesapeakeBoatBasin.com | (804) 436-1234 July/August 2022
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dinghy rack storage and storage lockers, dockside pump-outs & mobile pump-out boat, weekly e-newsletter, 3 customer lounges, conference room and event space. MARINE SERVICES Marine contractors on-site, year-round land storage, West Marine store on-site, private security, frost-free water and electric every 50’. 22
HERRINGTON HARBOUR SOUTH
7149 Lake Shore Drive North Beach, Md. 20714 301-855-5000 herringtonharbour.com HOURS Marina Office Daily: 9am-5pm DOCKAGE In season: Sunday - Thursday $2.25/foot, Friday and Saturday $3.25/foot. Off season: $2.25/foot (25% discount with Boat US membership).
FUEL Diesel, Gasoline AMENITIES Private beach, Olympic-size pool, kiddie pool, complimentary Wi-Fi, cable TV, restaurant, deck bar, market & deli, playground, complimentary kayaks and paddleboards, beach/lawn games, gardens with picnic areas, event spaces, propane grills, fitness center, sauna, tennis, pickleball, basketball, laundry, bathhouses, ATM, lodging, ice, pet-friendly. MARINE SERVICES Located at Herrington Harbour North (3 nautical miles) 23
slips/ $2.00/foot electric $7.00 per 30 amp $14.00 per 50 amp FUEL Gasoline; Diesel AMENITIES Private baths, laundry, Back Creek room, Marker Five restaurant MARINE SERVICES Full service boatyard, 35-ton Travelift 24
KNAPPS NARROWS MARINA & INN
PO Box 277 Tilghman, Md. 21671 410-886-2720 knappsnarrowsmarina.com HOURS Daily: 8am-6pm DOCKAGE Fixed/Floating/25
ROD ‘N’ REEL RESORT MARINA
4160 Mears Ave Chesapeake Beach, Md. 20732 866-312-5596 www.rnrresortmd.com/marinas HOURS 5am-6pm during the week, 5am-8pm on weekends DOCKAGE Transient FUEL None AMENITIES Indoor pool, fullservice spa, full bar, restaurants, picnic areas, fish cleaning stations. MARINE SERVICES pump-out, Bait and tackle, launch ramp, Ice
Book your overnight slip or a room at the resort!
Stay for a weekend or all season long!
Book a charter to nowhere or rent a vessel for the day.
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301-855-8450
Restaurants & Tavern Group Events Entertainment
Fishing Charters Kayak & Boat Rentals Gaming & Bingo
Embrace the unique beauty of the Chesapeake Bay!
Chesapeake Beach Maryland
25
CAMPBELL’S BOATYARD AT JACK’S POINT
106 Richardson Street Oxford, Md. 21654 410-226-5105 campbellsboatyards.com HOURS Daily: 7:30am-4:30pm DOCKAGE Fixed and floating docks up to 120 feet, transient slips—$2.00/foot/night FUEL Nope. AMENITIES Restrooms, laundry, meeting room, picnic area, complimentary Wi-Fi, complimentary bicycles. MARINE SERVICES Boat repair, maintenance and repowers, slip rentals, haul-outs and dry storage. 26
ABYC & Factory Trained Techs Helping Boaters Since 2001
C AMPBELL’S TOWN CREEK BOATYARD
109 Myrtle Avenue Oxford, Md. 21654 410-226-0213 campbellsboatyards.com HOURS Daily: 7:30am-4:30pm DOCKAGE Fixed Dockage up to 50 feet/transient dockage $2.00/foot/night FUEL Nope. AMENITIES Restrooms, laundry, complimentary Wi-Fi, complimentary bicycles MARINE SERVICES Dry storage. 27
AWARD WINNING SERVICES
DELTAVILLE
YACHTING
CENTER
18355 Puller R d ., D elt aville, VA 804-776-9898 ❘ w w w .d ycboat .com ❘ info@d ycboat.c om
the Coan River, the Potomac River, and Chesapeake Bay
Under New Management
C AN
Under New Management
C AMPBELL’S BACHELOR POINT YACHT COMPANY
26106A Bachelor Harbor Drive Oxford, Md. 21654 410-226-5592 campbellsboatyards.com HOURS Daily: 7:30am-4:30pm DOCKAGE Fixed dockage up to 100 feet/ transient slips— $2.00/foot/night FUEL Nope. AMENITIES Restrooms/ laundry/complimentary Wi-Fi/ complimentary bicycles/ swimming pool
Ice
Slips with Electric & Water
25-ton Travel Lift
On-Land Storage
7’ MLW
Non-ethanol Gas & Diesel
Boat Ramp
DIY or Full Service Yard
Easy Bay Access (804) 529-6767
CoanRiverMarina .com July/August 2022
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ETHANOL FREE GASOLINE Full service marina in beautiful Eastport overlooking downtown Annapolis. Ethanol free gas, diesel, pumpout & parking. Annual and transient slips with monthly, daily & hourly rates.
Fully-stocked Marine Store • Beer & Wine • Snacks & Ice Cream
Escape Relax Enjoy! 50
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Join the Chesapeake Yacht Club and enjoy the pristine waters and diversity of wildlife on the West River. • Slips for up to 70 foot yachts, including catamarans • Three brand new state-of-the-art floating docks • 30 minutes from the Beltway • Centrally located on the Bay • River view swimming pool and award winning dining • Boating memberships available, but limited slips remain! • Call 410-857-1500 or email Membership@ chesapeakeyachtclub.org
www.chesapeakeyachtclub.org
MARINE SERVICES Slip rentals, indoor dry storage, land storage, refits, repairs, paint, varnish, yacht sales. 28
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CAMBRIDGE YACHT BASIN
2 Yacht Club Drive Cambridge, Md. 21613 410-228-4031 www.cambridgeyachtbasin.com HOURS (May - Oct): 9am-6pm, (Nov - April): Monday- Friday 9am - 4pm DOCKAGE Transient & Annual FUEL Diesel, Gasoline AMENITIES Laundry facilities, Complimentary WiFi, Fuel (Gas & Diesel), Ice, Downtown within Walking Distance MARINE SERVICES Pump-out (at fuel dock), Fuel, Boathouse
YACHT MAINTENANCE COMPANY
101 Hayward Street Cambridge, Md. 21613 410-228-8878 yachtmaintenanceco.com HOURS Mon-Fri 7:30am-4pm DOCKAGE Annual and transient slips on fixed docks to 120 feet. FUEL Next door. AMENITIES 30-, 50-, and 100amp electricity, pump-out, Wi-Fi, several restaurants within walking distance. MARINE SERVICES 60-ton Travelift, 200-ton railway; welding, carpentry, electronics, engine maintenance and refits, rigging, painting, fiberglass repair, detailing and shrink-wrapping.
@CambridgeYachtBasin
DOCK & DINE | FULL-SERVICE MARINA | GAS & FUEL DOCK WALKING DISTANCE TO DOWNTOWN CAMBRIDGE
Annual Dockage Available 410-228-4031 2 Yacht Club Drive Cambridge, MD 21613 cambridgeyachtbasin.com 38° 34' 39.288'' N / 76° 4' 24.348'' W
July/August 2022
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. ERSHIP ADES! N W O PGR NEW UNDER ME SEE THE U 25-Ton Travel Lift CO
Winter Haul & Storage Shrink Wrap Services Fiberglass Repairs Bottom Sand & Paint Well-Stocked Ship’s Store Lift Slips & Wet Slips Boat Ramp Mechanic on Duty Ethanol-free Gas & Diesel Bait, Ice, Snacks, & Drinks
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205 Cedar Street Cambridge, Md. 21613 410-228-2520 HOURS Mon-Fri: 7:30am-4:30pm DOCKAGE Annual slips $1 per foot, 12 feet MLW FUEL Nearby. AMENITIES Electricity, restroom with showers, pump-out, restaurants within walking distance. MARINE SERVICES 50-ton Travelift, full-services including complete refits, repower, carpentry, rigging, Awlgrip painting, stainless steel and aluminum fabrication, fiberglass and gelcoat repair. 31
LO C A T E D I N LOT T S B U R G , V A O N T H E B E A U T I F U L C O A N R I V E R
804-529-7299
marina.lewisetta@gmail.com
We Sell Marinas
SOLD: Sunset Harbor, Essex MD 200 dry & wet storage SOLD: Bridge Marine, Urbanna VA 113 wet slips SOLD: Urbanna Port, Urbanna VA 59 wet plus yard SOLD: Yankee Point, Lancaster VA 101 wet slips plus yard Available: Deep Creek Boat Yard & Marina, Onancock, VA Available: Sunset Point, Urbanna VA 34 wet slips Focused on the Mid-Atlantic and Chesapeake Bay region
Jonathan Guion, SIOR
757.496.0866
JG.CoastalMarinaSales@gmail.com
A division of Jonathan Commercial Properties and an affiliate of Mid-Atlantic Commercial 110 Mid Atlantic Place, Yorktown, VA 23693 757.867.8777
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GENERATION III MARINA
CALVERT MARINA, LLC
14485 Dowell Rd Solomons, Md. 20688 410-326-4251 calvertmarina.com HOURS Daily: 8am-4:30pm DOCKAGE Over 400 Open Slips, Covered Slips, and Floating Docks available FUEL Diesel, Gasoline AMENITIES Three bath houses with 24 hour access, on site laundry facilities, seasonal in ground swimming pool, seasonal cafe’, fuel dock, pump-out station, on site full service boat yard, Wi-Fi available for transients on our floating docks, and 70+ acres to enjoy at your leisure. MARINE SERVICES Full service boat yard on site
POTOMAC 32
THE WHARF MARINA
650 Wharf Street SW Washington DC 20024 202-595-5165 www.wharfdcmarina.com
July/August 2022
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Follow the Mermaids to Food, Fun and Entertainment
MILE
0
ICW
HOURS Every day: 8am-8pm DOCKAGE Transient & Annual FUEL Diesel, Gasoline AMENITIES Hotels & Lodging, Restaurants, Music Venues, Bars & Clubs, Specialty Shops & Retailers, Provisions, ATMs, Event Spaces, Laundry, Showers, Restrooms, Ice, Grocery Stores, Bikes, Paddleboard/Kayak rental, Parking, Ship store, Special Events, Handicap Accessible MARINE SERVICES Floating docks, Security, Water taxi, Pump-out, Bait & tackle nearby 33
Walking distance to Downtown Norfolk’s Attractions, Restaurants, Arts and Entertainment! New Floating Docks and Power!
watersidemarina.com
BELMONT BAY HARBOR
570 Harbor Side Street Woodbridge, Va. 22191 703-490-5088 belmontbayharbor.com HOURS Tuesday-Sunday 9am-5pm (Closed Monday)
Amenities:
89 & 93 OCTANE FUEL • PUMPOUT SERVICE • BOAT RAMP • ICE • SUPPLIES SHIP STORE • FULL-SERVICE REPAIR SHOP • BATHHOUSE • FIRE PIT
270 wet slips 300 high & dry racks on-site Short cruise to the Chesapeake Bay Ideal waters for crabbing, fishing, and water sports! 667-309-9336 510 Riviera Drive Joppatowne, MD 21085 gunpowdercove@oasismarinas.com 39° 24' 27.864'' N / 76° 21' 0.216'' W 54
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DOCKAGE Transient and annual dockage rates for 158 deep-water slips ranging from 30’ to 50’ FUEL Diesel, Gasoline, VelvTectTM Premium AMENITIES picturesque and protected harbor in an upscale residential community with quick access to the Potomac. Customers enjoy floating Ipe docks, keycard entry, 30/50 amp electric, modern bathrooms and showers, laundry, Wi-Fi, ice, and pump-out. Diesel and ValvTect™ premium gas is available at the fuel dock. The Occoquan Bay National Wildlife Refuge is nearby, offering hiking trails and bird-watching. MARINE SERVICES Diesel and Gas with ValvTect™ Premium Fuel Additive, pump-out, fresh water, and electric. No mechanical services.
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COLES POINT MARINA AND RV RESORT
190 Plantation Drive, Hague, Va. 22469 (202) 484-0309 www.colespointmarina.com HOURS Daily: 9am-5pm DOCKAGE Slips FUEL Diesel, Gasoline AMENITIES bait & tackle, bars/ clubs nearby, boat rental, campground, courtesy car, disability access, dry cleaning, event space, floating docks, golf within 5 miles, grills grocery, hardware, health club, hotel/ lodging nearby, ice, laundry, lounge on-site, newsletter, parking, pet friendly, post office within 1 mile, provisions, rental cars, salon/ spa, showers, snack shop, tennis, tiki bar, town nearby, ValvTectTM
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MARINE SERVICES Boat service, drop-in/haul out services, dry storage, launch ramp, pump-out, towing
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COAN RIVER MARINA
3170 Lake Rd., Lottsburg, VA 22511 804-529-6767 oanrivermarina.com HOURS 8am-5pm DOCKAGE Transient, Seasonal, and Annual FUEL Treated Non-Ethanol Gas and Diesel, AMENITIES 89 Octane NonEthanol Gas & Diesel with Fuel Ox Marine Fuel Additive, Pump-Out, Ice, Soda, Water, Snacks, Laundry, Clean Restrooms, Showers, Parking, Picnic Area with Propane Grill,
Pet Friendly, Hardware & Grocery Store Nearby, Restaurants Nearby MARINE SERVICES 25-Ton Travelift, Certified Travelift Operators, Haul & Launch, Boat Launch Ramp, PumpOut, DIY Yard with Electric & Water, Full Service Yard, Pressure Washing, Engine Service, Fiberglass & Gelcoat Repair, Winterizing, Bottom Prep & Paint, Crane Services, Shrink Wrap, Wet Slips, Dry Storage, Trailer Storage, Winter Storage, and more 36
LEWISETTA MARINA & MARINE SERVICES
369 Church Ln, Lottsburg Va. 22511 804-529-7299 HOURS Sunday Saturday 7am-5pm DOCKAGE Transient & Annual FUEL Diesel, Gasoline
AMENITIES Ships Store, Bath House w/ showers, Boat Ramp, Bait Shop MARINE SERVICES Mechanic, Boat Detailing, Dry Storage, Boat Lifts & Travel Lift
LOWER BAY 37
C HESAPEAKE YACHT SALES & DELTAVILLE YACHTING CENTER
18355 General Puller Hwy. Deltaville, Va. 23043 804-776-9898 dycboat.com HOURS Mon-Fri: 8am-4:30pm, Sat 9am-4:30pm DOCKAGE Slips, Boatel,
Yard Storage FUEL Gasoline AMENITIES Private pool & clubhouse. Complimentary Wi-Fi & cable TV. Well-stocked ship’s store w/marine parts & snacks. Boater’s Boutique w/ clothing, jewelry, decor etc. Clean, air conditioned bathrooms w/showers. Fax/mail services. Landscaped peaceful setting. Gravel boatyard w/do-it yourself allowed. Non-ethanol gasoline. Pump-out stations. Waterfront picnic area w/grills. Lodging, restaurants, gift shops, groceries, churches, doctors, library nearby; courtesy vehicle. Charming staff. MARINE SERVICES ABYC certified & factory trained. Diesel & gas engine repower & repair. Generator installation & repair. Refrigeration /AC installation & repair. Rigging swagging, inspections & repair.
Aluminum & Stainless fabrication. 50 ton travel lift; 2 forklifts; 75’ manlift; & hydraulic trailer. Boatyard w/seasonal & long-term storage. Yacht refinishing & painting. 65’ enclosed double service bays. Boat detailing and bottom paint. Sails & canvas refits. Electronics installation & repair. 38
N ORVIEW MARINA
18691 General Puller Hwy. Deltaville, Va. 23043 540-698-1274 www.nomadmarinasatnorview.com HOURS 9am-5pm Daily DOCKAGE Transient & Annual FUEL Diesel, Gasoline AMENITIES Captain’s lounge, a pool, a ship’s store, bathhouses, grills, power, and Fire pit MARINE SERVICES Wet Slips, Dry slips. fuel
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TOWN OF ONANCOCK
15 North Street, Onancock, Va. 23417 757-787-7911 onancock.com/wharf HOURS 7:30am-7:30pm DOCKAGE Transient FUEL Diesel, Gasoline AMENITIES Courtesy car, golf carts for rent, free laundry, free clean private showers MARINE SERVICES Fuel and courtesy car to go to nearby parts 40
RIVERWALK LANDING PIERS
425 Water Street Yorktown Va. 23692 757-890-3370 visityorktown.org/276/On-the-Water HOURS April 1 - October 31 (7 days per week) Sunday Thursday - 10am-6pm Friday
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& Saturday - 10am to 9pm DOCKAGE Transient FUEL Available nearby AMENITIES Free WiFi, Private Restrooms Private Showers, Ice, Ship Store, Security, Meeting Facilities, Pet Friendly Transportation, ATM/Bank, Restaurant, Shopping, Hotel, Beach MARINE SERVICES Water, Power, and Pump-Out 41
THE DOCKS AT DOWNTOWN HAMPTON
10 Settlers Landing Rd Hampton, Va. 23669 757-727-1276 downtownhampton.com HOURS Seasonal DOCKAGE N/A ($2 per foot per day) FUEL Available nearby AMENITIES Floating Docks,
Laundry and Shower, Local Restaurants and Lodging, WiFi, Shower Power, Water, Public Transportation MARINE SERVICES pump-out 42
WATERSIDE MARINA
333 Waterside Dr. Norfolk, Va. 23510 757-625-3625 watersidemarina.com HOURS Daily: 8am-8pm DOCKAGE Transient FUEL Available nearby AMENITIES Wi-Fi, Grocery Shuttle, ice, pump-out, showers, prime location- walk to downtown shopping, attractions and restaurants MARINE SERVICES None
2022
RESTAURANT SHOWCASE
Oysters are now “R”-less
Y
ou grew up with the notion that oysters were only edible in months with an “R” in them – September through April. In Maryland and Virginia, watermen can legally harvest oysters in the wild generally between October and March, so that old adage holds true for those wild-caught oysters. Farm-raised oysters, on the other hand, are plump and delicious to eat every month of the year. All the oysters in the Chesapeake Bay – in fact, all the oysters growing all along the East Coast and around into the Gulf of Mexico, are the same species: the eastern oyster, or Crassostrea virginica. These oysters, like humans, are diploid, in other words, each of their cells contains two sets of chromosomes, one from each parent. If you look at the eastern oyster’s life cycle, as the water temperature rises, the oyster’s body begins to change as it prepares to spawn. Most of its energy goes into producing gametes – eggs or sperm. It becomes less opaque and more translucent. The thought of eating a spawning oyster packed with gametes is as distasteful as is its taste and texture: acidic and watery. Farm-raised oysters have been modified so that their cells contain not two, but three sets of chromosomes, which results in an oyster that doesn’t procreate. That means it doesn’t go into the annual cycle of transforming
itself to produce gametes. This educated oyster uses the energy it doesn’t waste producing eggs or sperm to grow to the three-inch harvestable size faster than natural oysters – in as little as 18 - 24 months, as opposed to at least three years for the natural oyster. Unlike farm-raised fish, which grow in enclosed pens with processed feed, oysters grow in cages in open water, either floating on the surface or sitting on the bottom of coves and creeks. They feed on the algae that naturally flows with the currents, just like oysters in the wild. Wild-harvested oysters tend to grow in clumps, or “cultches,” and can come in any sort of shape and size. Because farm-raised oysters are given all the room they need as the grow, their shape is more routinely oval, making them ideal for serving on the half-shell. But the biggest advantage is that these farmraised oysters are deliciously edible all year round, even during the warmer months without the “R.” Many of the restaurants on the following pages offer these special oysters, often grown in different rivers and creeks around the Bay, each with its own subtly distinctive salty tang or succulence – what oyster aficionados refer to as their “Bay-oire.” Be sure to order your own freshly-shucked taste-able tour of the Chesapeake the next time you dine at one of them.
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Jimmy Cantler’s Riverside Inn cantlers.com
Tucked at the end of a quiet subdivision in Annapolis sits what used to be a singlefamily summer home and now serves some of the best crabs in the region. The house,which sits waterfront along Mill Creek, was converted to a bar /restaurant in the early 1940s and quickly became a local hangout for watermen and their neighbors. Cantler’s has been recognized nationally as a must visit seafood spot in the region, and was featured on The Travel Channel show Food Paradise. Local seafood on the menu includes Chesapeake blue crabs, local oysters, and rockfish. Non-seafood items such as steak, prime rib, fried chicken and hamburgers are also available. Cantler’s matches its menus to the season. In the summer, that means soft crab specials —the eatery’s soft-shell crabs come fresh from the tank on the dock at the restaurant. In fall, rockfish and oysters are menu staples. The focus is on locally sourced seafood and vegetables like Eastern Shore corn, tomatoes and asparagus. Cantler’s uses only fresh Maryland crab meat in all crab dishes—including a family recipe for crab imperial.
Fisherman’s Inn fishermansinn.com
Fisherman’s Inn is an Eastern Shore landmark since 1930 serves the area’s best seafood to include award-winning crab cakes, fish, oysters, scallops, shrimp, and clams as well as steaks and slow roasted prime rib. The menu also offers homemade soups, specialty salads, appetizers, sandwiches, light fare, gluten free items and daily chef specials. It is also the home of the Nauti Mermaid Bar with seven flat screen TVs, a full menu and signature cocktails. Enjoy the overhead “G” scale train and the largest collection of oyster plates on the Eastern Shore with over 300 displayed throughout. We welcome large parties and offer private rooms for up to 80 people. Fisherman’s Inn serves lunch and dinner year round from 11AM. Fisherman’s Crab Deck is open mid-April through late October for lunch and dinner daily starting from 11AM. The steamed crabs are spicy and fat; the drinks refreshing and the sunsets spectacular. All the fish, shrimp, scallops and clams are steamed, grilled or fried and served in a relaxed but exciting tropical atmosphere. The restaurant is open on all sides right at the water’s edge. Try a fresh squeezed Orange Crush, Margarita or Pina Colada at our large, open air bar. Free Dockage at our pier while dining for both restaurants.
Celebrate the Bay! SUBSCRIBE TODAY
Featuring fresh off the boat Oysters, Clams & Fish, grass fed beef and local organic vegetables, soups, salads and entrees, some with a Caribbean flair! Full service Bar with draft beers, IPA’s & daily cocktail specials!
HOURS: Tuesday - Saturday: 5 - 9pm
4357 Irvington Rd, Irvington, VA | (804) 438-6363 | www.dredgeirvingtonva.com
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Carrol’s Creek Café carrolscreek.com
Since 1983, Carrol’s Creek Cafe and the Jacobs family have been serving fine food and drinks on the shore of Spa Creek in Annapolis. Offering something for everyone’s taste, Carrol’s Creek cafe serves fine food featuring fresh local seafood, grilled fish, steaks, chops, soups and much more. Carrol’s Creek brings you a new American tradition of dining that is founded in the time-honored heritage of a colonial town rich with seafood, culture, and style. We also offer an eclectic and versatile collection of wines. Relax and enjoy a wine, beer, or cocktail in our lounge and bar area. We also offer banquet accommodations and catering in glass-enclosed and private rooms available for lunch and dinners, each with a view of the harbor. From our historic location that overlooks the waters of Maryland’s capital, Carrol’s Creek offers the riches of the bay and the land in a new American style of cooking that emphasizes flavor and innovation. Your table awaits! Don’t hesitate to call us or make a reservation online. Complimentary parking available for 2.5 hours while dining.
Pirates Cove Seafood Restaurant & Dock Bar
The Irish Restaurant Company piratescovemd.com
Searching the Chesapeake for crabcakes and cocktails? Head south of the Bay Bridge to Pirates Cove Dock Bar on Maryland’s Western Shore. This year, a bright canopy of pink, blue, yellow and green umbrellas add to a tropical theme, providing shade for enjoying live music and seafood classics by the river. The Maryland Crabcake (voted Best Crabcake by Bay Weekly readers, 2018) is a crowd-pleaser. Chef Steve Hardison’s secret? As few ingredients as possible, allowing the sweetness of Maryland’s beloved Blue Crab to shine. That simplicity is the basis of all his recipes, from salmon, to meatloaf, to oysters, to sandwiches. Hardison was voted Maryland’s Best Chef by Chesapeake Bay Magazine readers in 2020. Bartenders, too, are muddling and mixing crushes and cocktails. The newest include Jack Smash (Jack Daniels, lemon, mint, simple syrup), Chai Key Lime (key lime rum cream with chai tea), and a gluten-free Hopetown Lime Paloma. Visit by land or water for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. See our ad in this magazine for a chance to win a $250 gift card.
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Dredge
The Deadrise
dredgeirvingtonva.com
thedeadriseva.com
Dredge in Irvington, Virginia serves up local oysters and seafood straight from the boat. Fresh soft-shell crabs are dropped off by a local seafood provider for dishes like Dredge’s soft crab bites or soft crab tacos. “A lot of local customers are watermen who come to eat the different seafood specials that we create each week,” says owner Bryan Byrd. “We make sure we are pleasing those with the knowledge of where our seafood comes from, who caught it, and how it should be cooked.” Local strawberries freshly picked are added to the strawberry shortcake on the spring menu. Touting a boat- and farm-to-table approach, the restaurant raises its own grass-fed cattle, pigs and chickens at family owned Black Sheep Farm. Chef Byrd has more than 20 years of culinary experience. Five years spent cooking in Key West influences his style of cooking and menu choices. Besides seafood, items found on the menu at Dredge include Jerk chicken, Cuban pork, tacos, burgers with a Caribbean, Cajun and Asian influence. “We are always evolving in the kitchen and basically I come up with my specials with what is available during the season,” Byrd says.
You’ll likely see more than water views while dining at The Deadrise in Hampton Roads, Va. A classic Chesapeake Bay fish house, The Deadrise is the place to spot dolphins and whales Set in a historic 400-year-old fort surrounded by a moat, The Deadrise offers boaters with a well-protected marina where the James River meets the Bay. The marina features deep water, quick access to the open water, floating slips and free docking while dining. The menu focuses on fresh, local seafood. The locals love the big fish sandwich, seafood burrito, crabcakes and seafood baskets. The owners of The Deadrise, the Tidewater Restaurant Group, have brought their flair for creating unique eateries to the entire Hampton Roads area.
Savor the best food and views in Annapolis. Come experience what locals and visitors rave about, and why we’re so proud to be honored by OpenTable as: One of the 100 Best Al Fresco Restaurants in America Among the 100 Most Scenic Restaurants in America 100%
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410 Severn Avenue Eastport | 410.263.8102 carrolscreek.com
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WATERFRONT BANQUE T SPACE
AMPLE PARKING
WATER TA XI STOP
TIDEWATER RESTAUR ANT GROUP
at Old Point Comfort
FORT MONROE facebook.com/thedeadriseva
NEWPORT NEWS facebook.com/kismetbistro
PHOEBUS facebook.com/ fullersrawbar
PHOEBUS
facebook.com/ July/August 2022 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 63 eldiablolocophoebusva
El Diablo Loco Cantina & Tequila Bar
Fuller’s Raw Bar fullersrawbar.com
Savor raw oysters, fish fries, steamer platters and other classic seafood dishes served at this cool, industrial-style eatery in Phoebus, Va. The raw bar employs an oyster bar manager to ensure it provides fresh, properly shucked, regional oysters. Fuller’s fans enjoy starting their meals with shrimp cocktail or red oyster chowder; entrees of shrimp combos served with sausage, corn on the cob and potatoes, pairing shrimp with clams, oysters, mussels or snow crab; Fuller’s Jambalaya with shrimp, sausage and chicken slowsimmered with Creole vegetables and ladled over jasmine rice; or the steamed platter piled with generous portions of snow crab, clams, oysters, mussels and peel-and-eat shrimp; all served with specialty cocktails, wine and cold beer.
We know
eldiabloloco.com
Every Wednesday is half-price Margarita Day at this trendy cantina in Phoebus, Va. On top of a menu of nearly a dozen tequila-based cocktails, you can also choose fruity jarritos, cervesas – both “gringo” and “Latino” style – and literally scores of tequilas and mezcals. The dinner menu features authentic creations influenced by food cultures from Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean, including tacos, quesadillas, enchiladas and burritos stuffed with chicken, beef, shrimp or blackened fish. One fan particularly likes the “excellent” chile relleno with Casio cheese.
An Eastern Shore landmark since 1930 serving the area’s best seafood including award winning crab cakes, fish, oysters, scallops, shrimp, and clams as well as steaks and slow roasted prime rib. The menu also offers homemade soups, specialty salads, appetizers, sandwiches, light fare, gluten free items and daily Chef Specials.
seafood Grasonville, Maryland
fishermansinn.com | 410-827-8807
CRAB DECK The steamed crabs you’ll find spicy and fat, the drinks cool, and the sunsets spectacular. All the fresh fish, shrimp, scallops and clams are steamed, grilled or fried and served in a relaxed but exciting tropical atmosphere; open on all sides right at the water’s edge. Try a fresh squeezed Orange Crush, Margarita or Pina Colada at our waterfront bar.
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crabdeck.com | 410-827-6666
Galway Bay Irish Pub & Whiskey Bar The Irish Restaurant Company galwaybaymd.com
You don’t have to cross an ocean to enjoy the craic, cuisine and hospitality of Ireland. Just follow the sound of Irish music to Maryland Avenue in Historic Annapolis — a short walk from Annapolis City Dock. Corned Beef Flatbread, Shepherd’s Pie, and Fish & Chips represent a sampling of Irish tastes, with Galway’s Dexter Burger and Roasted Chicken being local favorites. The dark mahogany Whiskey Bar, built by Irish artisans, is perfect for a quiet drink with friends or to talk whiskey with bartenders. Its highlight is a Teeling 29-year Single Malt 46%, bottle #61 of 100 made for the U.S. This one-ounce pour runs $200, but no worries. Tasters have dozens of satisfying, affordable choices among Maryland’s largest selection of Irish Whiskeys (and possibly one of the largest in the United States). Check out Sunday Brunch and Galway’s Happy Hour as well. See our ad in this magazine for a chance to win a $250 gift card.
Kismet Kismetbistro.com
This American Bistro at 99 Main in Newport News, Va., features casual dining in a relaxed modern atmosphere, whether in their spacious dining room or on the patio. The menu focuses on fresh, locally sourced ingredients. They offer different modestly-priced specials almost every night, from gourmet brick-oven pizzas to seafood entrees to prime rib. Regulars recommend an appetizer of deviled eggs with arugula and buttermilk dressing and the scrumptious bread pudding for dessert.
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BY MARTY LEGRAND
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MARTY LEGRAND
W
hen Chincoteague nearly burned down in 1920 after the ice cream parlor caught fire, the pumps failed on the town’s only fire engine. It hadn’t been maintained for years. The inferno destroyed half of the business district, including a large hotel and a bank so recently built it had yet to open. When Chincoteague almost burned down in 1924 during a howling snowstorm, flames outmatched the citizens again when “a half-effective engine and a bucket brigade” failed to douse a fire at the barrel factory, according to newspaper accounts. The blaze decimated Chincoteague’s oyster industry, leveling shucking houses, warehouses and wharves and causing approximately $300,000 worth of damage. Twice burned, resourceful residents on this isolated Virginia island weren’t shy: They started a fire brigade at once. Formed in May 1924, the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company had 14 able members, questionably operational equipment and four dollars and 16 cents with which to replace it. They’ve come a long way since then. Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company’s spacious new firehouse cost $4 million and change. It sits at the corner of Deep Hole and Chicken City roads and bears an architectural resemblance to the seacoast’s old life-saving stations—with significant upgrades. It houses equipment capable of responding to any fire, as well as the roughly 1,000 medical emergencies the company handles annually. And it takes on special
A time-honored tradition returns to Chincoteague
Saltwater
Cowboys
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JAMES RITCH
Enter ys. . . o b w Co
In return for the ponies’ foundational tasks like helping rescue two naval airmen role, the fire company—which owns from their partially submerged plane (which roughly 150 ponies—gives its herd TLC firefighters did this March) and delivering They’re perhaps the from a group of dedicated caregivers: an food to vulnerable residents ahead of a nation’s only firefighters elite mounted brigade of firefighters January blizzard—namely fresh hay for Assateague Island’s wild ponies. responsible for battling known as the Saltwater Cowboys. Ponies are the main attraction of “Chincoteague ponies” and the fire blazes, ministering penning week, but the Saltwater company go way back; the equines Cowboys (their herd-boat brethren are arguably financed island firefighting from medical aid and called “scowboys”) are the event’s heart the get-go. To underwrite fire preparedness herding horses. and soul. They worship tradition and in its early days, the fire company turned a their families’ deep island roots. They centuries-old tradition among islanders— literally wear their passion on their sleeves—the fire rounding up (penning) feral ponies—into a public, profitcompany’s trademarked logo, featuring a prancing pony. making enterprise that continues still. This July, following a And they’re perhaps the nation’s only firefighters Covid-19 hiatus, Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company will responsible for battling blazes, ministering medical aid and host its 97th annual pony swim, auction and firemen’s herding horses. carnival, the organization’s primary fundraiser. 68
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MARTY LEGRAND
MARTY LEGRAND
y o b w o C denise
"Aspiring cowboys must prove themselves worthy: Get involved, help out, show them you’re willing to put in the time." — DENISE BOWDEN
Each year, they round up the company’s two feral herds on the Virginia portion of Assateague Island and swim the ponies across a narrow channel to Chincoteague. There, on the firefighters’ historic carnival grounds, fuzzy-muzzled foals are auctioned off to the delight of tens of thousands of visitors whose presence subsidizes the fire company (island residents are not taxed for fire services) and replenishes Chincoteague Island’s economy. “There’s just nothing like it. It’s homecoming,” Denise Bowden says of “swim week.” Bowden is a Saltwater Cowboy—the only one of her gender—and a deep-rooted Teaguer, as islanders call themselves. She was scarcely a month old when she watched her first equine channel crossing 53 years ago. “Mom and Dad had me out on that boat for pony swim. When those ponies hit the water, that crowd goes about crazy,” she tells me. “I still get chills.”
W
e’re in Bowden’s pickup truck, idling at the McDonald’s drive-through, where she’s grabbing a snack before heading to opening day of the fire company’s 2021 fall roundup. July’s pony swim is the fire company’s headline event, but the cowboys also wrangle Assateague’s north and south herds for veterinary exams in the spring and fall. Over two days, ponies are herded into a corral, where they receive vaccinations, medications and health assessments. Chincoteague ponies, a registered breed, don’t live on the island for which they’re named—not the feral herds anyway. They stay on Assateague, Chincoteague’s barrier island neighbor to the east. They are indeed pony-sized, about 12 hands (4 feet) at the shoulder. They’re descended from a long line of animals who either escaped from a Spanish shipwreck or were set loose by colonists dodging livestock taxes, depending on the origin story you cotton to. July/August 2022
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150 brood stock ponies under special permit. Today, roughly 100 comprise the northern herd, the rest the southern. (The National Park Service manages—but doesn’t sell—the feral horse population on Maryland’s side of the border.) More trailers arrive. Horses are unloaded. The cowboys—most dressed in blue jeans, T-shirts, ball caps and cowboy or work boots—prepare their horses, adjusting saddles and coiling braided whips around the pommels. A handful confer with the cowboy in charge, a tall man with horn-rimmed glasses, trim white facial hair and a straw cowboy hat. Cowboy membership comes not by invitation, but by birthright or hard work. “It’s still a good old boys’ club,” says Bowden, whose grandfather was a member of the fire company but not its hallowed pony committee. She says aspiring cowboys must prove themselves worthy: “Get involved, help out, show them you’re willing to put in the time,” which was her ticket to the club. Bowden became the fire company’s first woman president, the first woman to chair the carnival committee and the first to serve on the pony committee. She also currently sits on the Chincoteague Town Council and once served as vice mayor. But that’s not her most important role.
Stallion
e d i t p i r
O
ff-season roundups attract far fewer spectators, but on this warm, early October afternoon a sizeable contingent of cowboys shows up. Their horse trailers arrive in dusty clouds at a dirt lot in Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, which occupies the Virginia portion of 37-mile-long Assateague Island. In the 1930s—before the refuge was established— Chincoteague’s fire company bought scores of ponies from the estate of their deceased owner, a wealthy businessman who grazed horses and livestock on Assateague. When the federal government established the island refuge, it banished livestock but allowed firefighters to graze up to
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CHINCOTEAGUE VOLUNTEER FIRE COMPANY
Since at least the 1700s, Chincoteague livestockmen corralled ponies every summer, a ritual celebrated with food, drink and festivity. By the 19th century, the roundup had become a tourism spectacle. Visitors from the mainland rode a “wheezing little steamboat” to Chincoteague to watch the locals pen and brand ponies “as wild as Texas mustangs,” illustrator/author Howard Pyle reported for Scribner’s Monthly in 1877. Today’s tourists drive the four-mile-long Chincoteague causeway to attend the swim and auction, held the last Wednesday and Thursday of July.
MARTY LEGRAND
“We’ve recognized that, outside of lives and property, strike me as emoji-texting types. Bowden introduces me to ponies are our priority. I spend 10 times more time on the several, having cautioned that not all of them like to talk to fire company than on the council,” she says. Besides pony journalists—or provide their names even if they’re chatty. committee duties, Bowden is the fire company’s media I meet Gene Merritt, who worked for NASA on nearby liaison, social media manager and unofficial spokesperson Wallops Island, and “Big Tom,” a lanky 74-year-old in a for the ponies’ head honcho and beloved prima donna, a white cowboy hat. He and his buddies drove 200 miles stallion named Riptide, who from North Carolina. Three of them communicates on Facebook with his are riding in today’s roundup; the many human fans through Bowden. others will help with the group’s six “Ole’ Riptide called tonight. horses. They were teenagers when The air is filled with the sounds Wanted to know what was up with they joined their first roundup, Tom of equine snorts, creaking all this wind. Said his mane looks like says, sleeping in chicken barns. it’s been in an egg beater and he Later, after many had married, they leather, swishing horse tails wants us to send over a stylist,” read arranged for nicer quarters. Tom and cowboy small talk. one post on the fire company says his ex-wife wasn’t very fond of Facebook page. On other occasions his pony wrangling. “She’s not he’s complained that newborn foals hog his limelight and around anymore,” he says, as he and Merritt grin. that the quiz show Jeopardy dissed him when mentioning A self-described “semi-retired” corn, soybean and the 1947 book that brought Chincoteague international fame, peanut farmer, Big Tom attends the spring and fall Marguerite Henry’s Misty of Chincoteague. “Trebek would roundups and the pony swim in July, when he stays a week. have made this happen for me,” he grumbled via Bowden. Like all Saltwater Cowboys, he receives no compensation. The fire company’s Facebook followers eat it up. An Why drive hundreds of miles to ride for a couple days? “It’s Illinois woman posted that “Riptide love” provided her that shore thing,” he says, shrugging. much-needed cheer. Locals call him handsome and “stud The cowboys begin saddling up. As the horses shake muffin.” They’re equally enamored of their fire company. their heads, dirt drifts off their coats in the late afternoon sun. “I love this island, the fire department and these The air is filled with the sounds of equine snorts, creaking saltwater cowboys. It warms my heart to see the care these leather, swishing horse tails and cowboy small talk. ponies get on a regular basis,” one follower posted. Others “Hey, what’s goin’ on?” shower cowboys with adulatory emojis: exclamation “I’m leaving next week. You ever shot coot?” hearts, blown kisses, folded hands and little pony heads. Someone swings open a metal gate. More than three They’re appreciative, I’m sure, but the cowboys don’t dozen cowboys ride through and form two lines. One
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Calm or feisty, the ponies are noisy, kicking against the sides of the stall, rearing occasionally and whinnying loudly. A stallion with a dark coat, a prominent blaze and an exceedingly long, straw-colored forelock (his ’do looks like a boy-band idol's) gets shoved into the stall. Bowden, who’s identifying ponies with a microchip reader, mumbles something like “uh-oh.” This is Riptide. Although he rears his head defiantly, he takes his medicine reasonably well, I think, given his reputation. Dewormer deployed, he’s let go to join a herd that will be re-released on the island. Watching the proceedings are Charles Cameron, pony vet emeritus, and a publicity-wary older cowboy who Cameron introduces as “the rope man.” Holding a looped length of rope although he no longer rides, the man tells me stories about his cowboy days by talking directly to Cameron. He says he was 13 when he started, during an era when cowboys lassoed rather than corralled ponies. On swim day, he’d leave home at 5 in the morning, he recalls, and return about 10 at night. As it happens, there’s a 13-year-old aspiring cowboy, Jarrett Patton, sitting on a metal fence within earshot. Patton says he was 8 when he first helped on penning day. His grandfather and uncle are Saltwater Cowboys, he says. He hopes to follow them. Cowboy Hunter Leonard may have balanced on this very fence about a decade ago, watching a tradition his family has practiced for at least four generations. His great-uncle Henry, grandfather Donald (a legend on Chincoteague) and father Arthur were cowboys. Earlier ancestors grazed livestock on the islands. I reach Hunter Leonard later by phone. He’s affable and forthcoming, well suited to another family calling, tourism. He and his wife run Cowboy Cruise Company, which offers pony tours and aquaculture tours of their small shellfish farm. (Granddad Donald opened a Chincoteague landmark, the Refuge Inn, and Hunter’s uncle also ran tour boats.)
y o b w Co Gene
JAMES RITCH
group follows the shoreline, splashing through a saltwater marsh. The other heads inland through bayberry thickets toward a stand of scrubby pines. Each group will flush out members of the south herd and drive them to the corral, where they’ll be treated by a vet and released back to the wild, delivered to their buyers (fall “pickups”) or—with younger ponies and ailing adults—get trailered to Chincoteague to spend the winter at the carnival grounds. The roundup can take as little as 45 minutes, Bowden says, or two to three hours if stragglers need to be flushed from their hiding places. The saltmarsh group isn’t even out of sight when one horse loses its footing and its cowboy makes a wet landing. He quickly scrambles back into his saddle. Bowden drives deeper onto Assateague Island to the corral, where scores of spectators have gathered along a wooden fence, cameras ready. In short order, the first ponies gallop over a dune and thunder past: palominos, buckskins, bays and chestnuts, their manes and tails long and unruly, their bellies water-bloated from quenching a thirst that comes of eating saltmarsh grasses. They arrive in three or four waves, followed by the cowboys, who elicit as many cheers as the equines. For some cowboys, the day is done. For others, the work has just begun. Over the next couple hours, they’ll cajole or coerce each pony along a wooden-fenced corridor into veterinarian George Marble’s “office.” Barely horsesized, this boarded stall has a swinging door in front and two openings on the sides, one for a cowboy to restrain the pony—with rope if necessary—the other through which Dr. Marble works. A two-by-four slipped through the fence ensures the animal can’t back out. If the patient is cooperative, Marble lifts the pony’s head, opens its jaws and squirts a tube of dewormer into its mouth. Stubborn types require Marble to enter the stall and administer the medicine. Either way, the deed is accomplished quickly. The cowboy assigned to bar the stall door with all his weight steps back and lets the animal go.
COWBOY CRUISE COMPANY
n i a t p a C Hunter
establishing a record for a single Although he enjoyed boating pony bid ($28,250) in 2020 and from an early age, “I never grew record total sales ($416,950) in 2021. up riding,” Hunter says. “I turned "We start hollering and cracking But Bowden estimates those eighteen and I saddled up.” He’s missing years also cost firefighters been a cowboy since and is now a our whips. It’s just pure joy." hundreds of thousands in revenue, licensed captain, sharing his HUNTER LEONARD — plus incalculable memories. knowledge of Chincoteague “They have no idea how ponies, their personalities and important they are to this island,” pedigrees with his passengers. she says of Assateague’s ponies and their celebrated swim. Ponies are branded with their birth years, but they “It’s such a sacred tradition for all of us.” weren’t formally named until about 30 years ago, he says. Come July 27, Saltwater Cowboys will once again herd Some bidders wanted to buy and name ponies but let their revered charges south to Pony Swim Point, where— firefighters retain ownership so the horses could remain when the tide is totally slack—they’ll swim 200 yards to with the herd. The “buyback” program has been a roaring Chincoteague, cheered by thousands of shoreline spectators success, boosting pony prices and fire company revenue and hundreds of boaters. while allowing purchasers to receive tax breaks. “We start hollering and cracking our whips. It’s just pure Riptide was a buyback, and aptly named. “He’s very joy,” Hunter Leonard says of the exuberant-yet-bittersweet aggressive when it comes to his women,” Hunter explains. moment. “It’s the culmination for our whole year. You don’t No kidding. see many of us cry,” he says. “You won’t.” t day’s end, Bowden and I walk through a corral Unless, maybe, you look real closely. holding Himself and maybe a dozen other ponies. Suddenly, another stallion sets Riptide off. Ears The 2022 Pony Swim and Auction will be held July 27 & 28. flattened, he races around the corral’s perimeter, The north and south herds will be rounded up the weekend thudding so close that Bowden pushes me toward a fence prior, July 23 & 24. Find the complete schedule at and shields me with her body three times before we can chincoteaguechamber.com/pony-event-schedule/ reach her truck. Misty may be these ponies’ adorable symbol, but Riptide embodies their feral spirit, too. Maryland native and award-winning contributor Marty Before Covid, only World War II interrupted LeGrand writes about nature, the environment, and Chincoteague Fire Company’s pony pageant (also for two Chesapeake history. years). The pandemic moved the auction online,
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In Praise of
Small Things Discovering the joys of cruising the Bay in small boats BY JEFFERSON HOLLAND
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have a large fleet of small boats—canoes, kayaks, even an inflatable catamaran rowboat. And I’m not alone. According to the National Marine Manufacturer’s Association, 95% of boats on the water in the U.S. are less than 26 feet—boats that can be trailered by a vehicle to local waterways. The Chesapeake Bay is about 200 miles long from the mouth of the Susquehanna at Havre de Grace to where it opens up onto the Atlantic Ocean between Cape Henry and Cape Charles, but there are more than 11,000 miles of shoreline in between, most of which is inaccessible to boats with keels more than four feet deep. You don’t need a big boat with liveaboard accommodations to explore the Bay, and for most of the nicest spots, a big boat is an actual impediment. Here are three boaters’ experiences cruising the Bay in their small boats.
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David Dawson on Terrapin, the 18-foot canoe yawl he built in his garage
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Martin Needle and his wife, Barbara, with their 23-foot Parker Center Console
The Avid Daytripper
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artin Needle keeps his 23-foot Parker center-console in a boatel at South River Marina on Selby Bay, south of Annapolis. It’s less than an hour’s drive from his home in Potomac, outside of Washington, D.C. “In the summer when we have longer days, it’s possible to leave work and get in a couple of hours of fishing or go to a nice waterfront restaurant for dinner. When your boat can go 20–25 mph, that’s easy to do,” he told me over the phone from his office, where he serves as an attorney with the U.S. Dept. of the Treasury. “My wife, Barbara, and I just celebrated our 25th anniversary and boating has always been a strong part of our lives with our two kids,” he added. “My son and I love fishing, and together with my wife and our daughter, we enjoy waterskiing, paddleboarding and cruising. I learned to waterski in Round Bay on the Severn River, and that’s still one of our favorite areas to ski, along with Shaw Bay on the Wye River. Both of my kids learned to ski in those locations.” I would count Martin and his family among the Bay’s more active boaters. Their season starts in mid-April and runs into November, depending upon the weather. In that time, they routinely clock an average of about 100 hours of running time every year on the boat’s 200 hp Yamaha outboard.
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Now 58 years old, Martin was born and raised in the Washington, D.C. suburbs. “I grew up in and around boats my entire life, primarily boating in the Chesapeake Bay area with Annapolis as the home port,” he recalled. “My parents had a cabin cruiser, and we’d spend weekends in Annapolis and cruise to various destinations around the Bay. I served as my dad’s first mate.” As their kids grew older, social activities and sports began competing with the family’s boating time. “So the concept of going away for the weekends is difficult,” Martin lamented, “but we do a lot of day cruising within a 50-mile radius of our slip on South River. To the north, we can get as far as Baltimore or Rock Hall; to the east, we can reach Kent Narrows, Oxford or St. Michaels; and to the south, we can get to Solomons and back in a day.” St. Michaels is always at the top of the list, he says. “Anchoring outside the harbor and paddleboarding around the harbor is always fascinating. We love trying new restaurants. We recently discovered the Point Crab House up the Magothy, truly a gem. We enjoy tying up in downtown Annapolis, walking around and going to the ice cream place there.” Martin opted to buy the Parker center-console in 2016 for its efficiency and simplicity. “With fuel prices today, it’s very economical,” he says. “We rarely spend more than $100 a day. We keep it at a boatel, which takes away all the worry of keeping a boat in the water.”
The Unexpected Adventurer
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hile the Needle family sticks to day cruising, John Mirassou and his buddies went cruising for 112 days straight. In a 17-foot Boston Whaler Montauk. You could say he wrote the book on small-craft cruising, because he did. It’s called Only in America: Ft. Lauderdale to New York to Chicago to New Orleans in a 17-foot Boat. Mirassou related his adventures over the phone from his home in Redondo Beach, Calif. In 1987, at the age of 22, John and his friends celebrated their college graduation with this 5,700mile odyssey. He published his memoir in 2007, then did another trip from Fort Lauderdale to New York in 2011 as a book tour. On both journeys, they traversed the length of the Chesapeake Bay from Norfolk to the C&D Canal, frequently with one or the other of the crew trailing along on water skis. Many a night, they would simply camp out in the boat. Other times, they relied on the kindness of strangers. “We’d tie up at a marina and somebody would always ask, ‘What are you doing with all that stuff in your boat?’ and we’d tell them, and they’d always say, ‘In THAT? If you’re crazy enough to do that, I’m crazy enough to buy you a drink!’ And after a few beers in the local bar, they’d offer to put us up for the night. Fifty percent of the time we were put up by people we didn’t even know.” John often gives lectures on the advantages of cruising long distances in a small boat. “It’s only one engine, so it’s not gas guzzling, and you rarely have
trouble finding dock space for the night, especially in the spring and fall when boats are going north and south. You radio in to the marina and ask for a slip and they tell you they’re all full up. ‘But I’m a 17-foot Boston Whaler.’ ‘Oh, we have space for you.’ You never have to stop for a drawbridge, and when you run aground, you get out and push yourself off.” What happens when it rains? “You find a bridge to hide under, or you look out for the storms and you can quickly get out of the way. Or you just get wet. Sometimes we’d strip down to our bathing suits and dry off afterward.” They’d average between 100 and 150 miles a day. “The Chesapeake is one place where you could spend two or three months [exploring], but we were on a schedule.” Mirassou was particularly taken by the Potomac River. Here’s an excerpt from the book: The early morning sun was brilliant yellow as I turned the wheel and rounded Smith Point onto the Potomac River. Although it was a perfect mid-June morning, it was still quite cool, which may have accounted for the conspicuous lack of boat traffic. “Only 160 more miles and we’ll be in our nation’s capital,” I proclaimed as I took a compass heading and began our long trek up the Potomac River. Although I’d dreamt about it for years, I was still taken aback by the thrill of being atop this historic tributary, navigating our way toward Washington, D.C. As the goosebumps spread, I broke into song and my friends joined in for a rousing rendition of “The Star-Spangled Banner.”
If you’d like to purchase a copy of John Mirassou’s book, Only in America, send an email request to mirassouhere@gmail.com.
John Mirassou and his buddies in a 17-foot Boston Whaler Montauk
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David Dawson with John Harris on Terrapin, the 18-foot canoe yawl he built in his garage
The DIY Sailor
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met our third candidate, David Dawson, at the “Big Little Boat Festival,” held Memorial Day weekend at Camp Wabanna at the mouth of the Rhode River near Annapolis. This is the annual event promoting small boats propelled by paddle, oar and sail that’s sponsored by Chesapeake Light Craft. Based in Annapolis, CLC is the worldwide leader in build-your-own boat kits. Their original boat designs include kayaks, canoes, rowboats, sailboats, stand-up paddleboards and even teardrop campers. David won the “Best in Show” award for Terrapin, the 18-foot canoe yawl he built in his garage from a CLC kit. Inspired by the boats made popular in England in the 1880s for exploring that island’s rocky coasts, canoe yawls are double-ended craft (read: “pointy at both ends”) with snug but comfortable accommodations for overnighting, and they can be propelled by sail or oar. The boat was designed by John C. Harris, principal owner of CLC. Harris, who has been a lifelong admirer of the canoe yawl, calls his design “Autumn Leaves.” “To me, a ‘canoe yawl’ isn’t just a design type,” he wrote when describing the craft on the CLC website, “it’s a self-contained, small-boat cruising philosophy. According to this philosophy,
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skilled boatmen [and women] move their little boats along the coastline in all weather, artfully playing wind and tide to make passages without resorting to engines.” I interviewed David Dawson by phone while he was aboard Terrapin. He had anchored in Fox Cove in the lee of Big Island on the Rhode River. “I’ve been boating since I was a kid,” he told me. “My dad built some small boats. When I retired, I started downsizing.” David retired 10 years ago from a 37-year career at the Morning Call in Allentown, Pa. He started there as a reporter and moved up into management. “My last boat was a 27-foot trimaran,” he told me, but he wanted a boat he could keep at his home in Cherryville, Pa.—one he could “keep in the garage and one I could trailer anywhere I wanted to go. I wanted it to be the smallest boat with a cabin, and one that didn’t have a motor.” He chose the canoe yawl because it was designed specifically as a totally human-powered, single-handed cruiser. “It has a lot of ballast, so it’s very stable,” David said, “but it’s got a flat bottom so you can go into very shallow water. And I also I liked the look of it—there’s some old-fashioned charm to it.” He drove down to Annapolis, rented a U-Haul trailer and picked up the kit comprised of two big boxes on a palate, he recalled. That was in 2018. David built the boat in his garage—“really a boat shed,” he explained, “where I keep all my kayaks. I’ve got a little skiff and about 10 kayaks.” (Like me, David owns a large fleet of small boats.) After about 1,500 hours of work, he had it finished by the fall of 2019. The end result is 18 ½ feet long, 5 feet wide, and weighs about 1,700 pounds, including more than 500 pounds of lead ballast. “When you load it with gear, it displaces about a ton,” he said. “I tow it
with a Volvo station wagon. On the trailer, it’s just about 2,300 pounds, and it tows pretty easily.” This is the start of Terrapin’s fourth season afloat. “I’ve brought it down to the Chesapeake more than anywhere else,” he explained, although he’s also been to the New Jersey coast and Lake Ontario. His home in central Pennsylvania is most convenient to the north end of the Chesapeake Bay, where Dawson enjoys exploring the Sassafras and Chester Rivers, with anchorages in quiet spots like Still Pond and Fairlee Creek. He eschews marinas. “I always anchor out,” he said. “You just drop your anchor and there you are. I do it real, real, simple after all the complicated boats I’ve owned.” He has a little camp stove to boil water for freeze-dried dinners and coffee in the morning. “It’s not really cooking at all.” The boat handles easily, even in 20- 30-knot winds, with its lug-rigged sail and spanker. (read: “little sail in the back”) The lead ballast and the twin bilgeboards keep the boat upright under sail. It draws just 8 inches of water with the boards up.
“Because it’s such a shoal-draft boat, you can get up little creeks, places where it’s really quiet,” he explained. “I’m a bird watcher so it’s a good platform for that early in the morning. You don’t get that when you’re marina hopping. That’s why I come down to the Chesapeake. I’m here behind Big Island on the Rhode River, and there are so many places like this.” When I started investigating this topic, I was sure I’d come across boaters who cruise from destination to destination in their runabouts, dock at an elegant restaurant for dinner and then stay at some quaint B&B every night. Instead, I discovered a family who keeps their cruising to daylight hours, a guy who’s made an impossible Great Loop cruise in a Montauk Whaler, and a birdwatcher who cruises with no motor at all, just wind and muscle. How do you like to cruise? Let us know. Send your story and photos to adventures@ chesapeakebaymagazine.com and we’ll post the best ones on our website.
How to get the best fuel efficiency from your outboard boat SLOW DOWN “Throttle back,” advises Jack Jett, president of Jett’s Marine in Reedville, Va. Jack’s been selling and fixing boats all his life, so he knows his boats. His father started the business in 1929. Data show that backing off from full throttle just 10% will save 20% in fuel consumption. “Don’t carry more weight than you have to,” Jack adds, “and keep up with your regular motor maintenance.”
CHECK YOUR PROP Gene Thomas, owner of Black Dog Props in Stevensville on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, says, “If you’re feeling any vibrations, or you can’t reach the engine manufacturer’s rpm rating at wide-open throttle, or you hear funny noises in the boat, or it’s feeling sluggish, all that can come from a bent prop. A trued-up prop will run 5–10% better on average in fuel efficiency and speed.” Gene’s been with the company since 1995, but he’s been fixing props since 1985. “We’ve had a lot of people who have bought used boats,” he says. “They don’t get a survey and they don’t have a clue of how it’s running or how it’s supposed to run. After they run it a lot, they find out it’s burning a lot of fuel. We hear it a lot lately, especially now in the last couple of months (with the price of gas so high), people are getting their props retuned.”
KEEP YOUR BOTTOM CLEAN Joseph West, parts and service manager at Cape Charles Yacht Center on the southern tip of Virginia’s Eastern Shore, says, “When you allow your bottom to go any period of time, you’ll start getting hard marine growth like barnacles,” and soft growth like slime and algae. “Any barrier between your bottom and the water is going add friction and reduce your fuel efficiency.” Choose the right bottom paint for your boat and the conditions you operate it in and have the hull cleaned regularly, either by hiring a diver to do it for your or have your boat hauled at the marina for a power wash.
VESSEL TRIM AND SEA CONDITIONS If your boat has trim tabs, learn to use them properly. If they’re trimmed to raise the bow too high, your stern will be dragging. Trimmed with the bow down, the boat will plow through the water and make steering difficult. Correct trim is typically two to five degrees bow up. Rough sea conditions could make the hull pound and plunge, or make you go so slow you come off plane, which can also put a damper on your fuel efficiency. Plan your trip to take advantage of tides, currents and weather to save fuel and money. July/August 2022
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WILD CHESAPEAKE
Crabbing With Kids
Little ones can learn big lessons in conservation when they start early. by Capt. Chris D. Dollar
Our first order of business is safety. Start with showing them proper way to wear a life jacket. Then do it again, and then again.
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t doesn’t matter how many crabs I’ve caught, each one I’ve dipped is as magical as the first. Fiercely beautiful, their chiseled armor wards against the hardships of life in the Chesapeake. Crabbing at least once is a must if you live along or visit the Chesapeake, and it’s never too early to start teaching this art to the next generation. Below are some tips on that, as well as gear.
A Few Dos & Don’ts of Taking Kids Crabbing In my many years as an outdoors trip leader and fishing guide I’ve found that
MD DNR/CHRISTINE EDWARDS
(Editor’s note: As we were preparing this issue, the Maryland Department of Natural Resources released the results of its annual winter dredge survey that indicate the lowest abundance of blue crabs in the Chesapeake Bay in decades. It’s more important than ever to teach kids about crabs and why they’re so vital to the health of the Bay, and there’s no better way to introduce them to crabs than to take them out crabbing. As Capt. Chris advises, teach them to take no more male crabs than they need for a good meal, and let all the female crabs go.)
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The best way to prime the pump for future trips is to crab where your odds of catching crabs are high.
Most importantly, make it fun. Remember, it’s just crabbing. If the youngster in your life isn’t into the outdoors, give them time. Chances are they’ll come around eventually to enjoy the Bay, too. Forcing your passions onto them rarely works, if ever.
Gearing Up Like sport fishing, recreational crabbers run the gamut in terms of gear. Let’s start with the basics. The simplest method is a hand line. You can easily make one using a fishing sinker, thin line nylon or cotton string, and “handles” cut from a simple pool noodle. Commercially made “throw lines” are triangles of wire with a weight molded to each; they look like super-sized safety pins, with the pin end used to spike the bait (usually chicken necks or fish heads). Rig at least a half-dozen per kid or risk mutiny. When a crab is on the line, a slow, steady retrieve is key. Collapsible traps, also called snap pots, are a good choice when crabbing with young kids (or newbies). Snap pots come in a few different configurations: four-paneled vinyl collapsible crab traps, the star style, and the crab rings measure. You can fish them from a small boat or dock. A couple dozen traps is about the right number. Vary the depth you set them, and swap out bait when it becomes washed out. MD DNR/PATRICIA COLLETTI
youngsters not only want clear direction, they also respect you for providing it. Plan accordingly, yet manage your expectations, especially for young tackers under six years old. Explain the day’s plan. Don’t forget the snacks, drinks and even coloring books to pass the time. And for the real little ones, bring along their favorite toy. Make it a relaxed event, perhaps with swimming or lunch out afterward. Our first order of business is safety. Start with showing them proper way to wear a life jacket. Then do it again, and then again. Model the behavior. Buy your child, relative or friend’s kid her or his own life jacket. Make sure it fits properly. If it chafes, binds or is too loose, kids will try every trick in the book to weasel out of it. Get kids involved from the beginning by letting them (if they’re old enough) help set the gear. If you’re on a boat, show them your helm station and electronics and explain how each works. Of course, the funnest part of the whole experience is scooping up the crabs. The best way to prime the pump for future trips is to crab where your odds of catching crabs are high. A first-time crabber cares little the size of the critter—they’re happy as long as things are entertaining. Also, don’t overcomplicate things. Time management is key. Nothing sucks the fun out of crabbing more quickly than if it’s too boring, too hot or both. You’ll not only get a cranky kid, but they may
develop an aversion to it. Two hours tops for first timers is plenty. Have a back-up plan ready to go. Remember, there’s a chance you may get skunked. If you’re near a beach, walk the shallows with a few dip nets and, if you’re more adventurous, pull a seine net. Minnows, crabs and other Bay critters are usually easy to catch and a hoot for youngsters.
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JEFFERSON HOLLAND
Next you’ll need a roller arm, which attaches to the boat and extends across the gunwale (or wash board) over the water to allow the trotline to roll across it. You can purchase one, or fashion one out of PVC or metal. Other standard gear includes a dipnet, two or three bushel baskets with lids to hold crabs, a culling stick to measure the crabs’ size, a set of tongs, heavy-duty canvas or rubberized gloves and a second set of tongs for when you drop the first pair overboard. Also, make sure you check your state’s regulations for size limits, seasons and other rules. They change. Kids can discover all kinds of critters with a seine net, including crabs, as these kids did Finally, there’s no last summer at Mayo Beach Park on the South River near Annapolis. substitute for time on the water. The Bay is the best place to If you want to get serious, run a learn about the mystical rhythm of trotline. You can make one yourself crabs. Take a page from the late state (thanks, YouTube) or buy them Senator Bernie Fowler and slap on a pre-rigged. Expect to pay a pretty pair of old sneakers and wade a grass penny if you choose the latter route. flat with a roller net. Among the last of Three-strand nylon line is standard our wild places, a walk among the sea today. (Does anyone under 50 years old grass meadows inspires peaceful even know what tarred sisal is?) Most reflection. We certainly can use more trotliners today use snooded trotline, of that these days. which are short (six inches) sections of bungy cord attached to the mainline (EDITOR’S NOTE: Based on the about six feet apart. At the business dismal results of the winter dredge end of the snood, you can either go survey, the Maryland Department of with an onion bag or insert bait— Natural Resources may cut the 2022 chicken necks (cheapest), salted eel, or crabbing season short or reduce catch bull lips—directly into the loop. If you limits to ensure the fishery remains go with onion bags, razor clams are you attach to a float or buoy with a sustainable. Check dnr.maryland.gov great, but also the most expensive and snap swivel. Down from the buoy runs for updates.) time-consuming method. Novices an anchor line. It’s better to have too wonder why the crabs hang on to the much anchor rode than too little. The Capt. Chris Dollar is a fishing guide, bait. It’s simple: Being greedy suckers, anchors can be old sash weights, tackle shop owner, and all-around they hang on like Charlie Sheen back in flywheels or other engine parts, or Chesapeake outdoorsman with more the day at the end of a party. mushroom-style anchors heavy than 25 years’ experience in avoiding Each end of the main line is enough to hold bottom in a good office work. attached to a two-foot run of chain that current. Avoid fluke anchors.
There’s no substitute for time on the water. The Bay is the best place to learn about the mystical rhythm of crabs.
ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 82
July/August 2022
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CHESAPEAKE CHEF
Country Corn & Crab Dip
Libbey’s Coastal Kitchen + Cocktails, Stevensville, Md.
I
f you’ve ever driven eastbound across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, you may have noticed something new. The longstanding Hemingway’s Restaurant has reopened as Libbey’s Coastal Kitchen + Cocktails. It’s just one of the changes coming to Bay Bridge Marina, which was acquired by Petrie Ventures and McGrath Development in summer 2021. The restaurant is being managed by the team at Chesapeake Bay Beach Club, which has a devoted following for their nearby inn and events venue. Keep an eye out for specials like dog-friendly happy hours and live local music, and enjoy complimentary dockage (two hours max) when dining by boat. Here is a sample from Chef Mauricio Quizhpi.
COUNTRY CORN & CRAB DIP INGREDIENTS 8 oz. lump crab 2 oz. country ham, diced, plus some shredded for garnish 16 oz. cream cheese ¼ sour cream ¼ cup mayo 1 cup roasted corn 2 tsp lemon juice 1 tsp tabasco ½ cup shredded jack cheese ½ tsp minced garlic DIRECTIONS: Combine all ingredients and bake at 350º for 20 minutes or until hot throughout. Top with shredded roast ham, and serve with mini naan bread and wonton chips.
The new chic, modern interior puts the focus where it should be: on those amazing views.
ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 84
May/June 2022
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Call or go online today for available men properties, videos and Punta Gorda area information. UE o W F O O D I S S941-833-4217 H T · 866-761-8138 · discoverpuntagorda.com Florida’s 2nd largest harbor T H E F OO D I S S U E
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Chesapeake Lifestyle Experts
Denise Neitzke
REALTOR®/Team Member
Denise Neitzke Chris McNelis ® REALTOR /Team Member
Associate Broker/Team Leader
Chris McNelis Ashley Burroughs Associate Broker/Team Leader
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Announcing our new Team Member REALTOR®/Executive Assistant
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® REALTOR Announcing our new Team Member Look for her in our future ads! Megan Erickson
REALTOR® Look for her in our future ads! O 410-394-0990 M 410-610-4045 Web: mcnelis.penfedrealty.com O 410-394-0990
M 410-610-4045 Web: mcnelis.penfedrealty.com Waterfront. Land and Farm. Condominium. Commercial. Waterfront. Land and Farm. Serving Southern Commercial. Maryland and the Condominium. Patuxent River region since 1992
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TARTAN 395 65’ 2019 Regency P65 .....................................$2,895,000 60’ Jeanneau Yachts - September ......... CALL 51’ 2022 1983 WASA Atlantic 5160 .................................. $57,000 54’ 54Yachts Pilothouse ....................... $450,000 51’ 2004 2023 Symbol Jeanneau 51 - oct 2022 .. ON ORDER 54’ 2015 Riviera - Belize 54 DayBridge ......$1,099,000 50’ 1988 Transworld - Fantail 50 ................... $240,000 51’ 1986 Antigua 51 ............................................ $130,000 49’ 1983 2021 Wasa Jeanneau SO 490 # 147 in stock ......... CALL 51’ Atlantic 51 ...................................$57,000 48’ 2004 2023 Viking Excess Princess 15 # 14 In Stock CALL 50’ V50 FLY ............................ ................... $350,000 50’ ...................................... $390,000 45’ 2014 1983 Jeanneau Bristol 45.5509 ........................................... $150,000 50’ - Fantail 50 .................... $240,000 44’ 1988 1993 Transworld Pacific Seacraft 44 ............................ $199,000 49’ 2021 Jeanneau SO 490-147 In Stock ............. CALL 44’ 1982 Gulfstar 44 CC ........................................ $95,000 49’ 2020 Jeanneau SO 490 - HAYETTE .......... $525,000 44’2022 2023 Tartan Jeanneau 440Model - Sept 2022 ............... CALL CALL 45 455SO - New .......................... 43’ 1983 2015 Tartan .......................................... $150,000 $590,000 45’ Bristol 4300 45.5 ............................................ 41’ 2022 Jeanneau SO 440-321 410 - 209InInStock Stock............. ........... CALL 44’ 44’ 4400 - FL ................................. 41’ 2004 2007 Tartan Island Packet SP Cruiser ................. $335,900 $285,000 44’ c Seacraft 44 ............................. 40’ 1993 1981 Pacifi Nautilus 40 Pilothouse .......................$199,000 $70,000 44’ 1987 C&C 44 C/B ..............................................$79,000 40’ 2022 Excess 12 # 29 In Stock .................... $688,205 43’ 2008 Tartan 4300 - MD ....................................... CALL 43’ 2005 Jeanneau 43DS ................................... $183,000
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41’ 2022 Jeanneau SO 410-131 In Stock ............. CALL 41’ .......................................... 40’ 2002 1977 Tartan Gulfstar4100 Hood 40 ..................................$229,000 $99,000 40’ 405 COUPE .................................. CALL 40’ 2022 2000 NIMBUS Pacific Seacraft 40 ............................ $275,000 40’ 2006 Pacific Seacraft 40 - Spain .............. $335,000 40’ 2006 Pacific Seacraft 40 ............................ $335,000 40’ 1981 Nautilus 40 Pilothouse ........................$79,000 40’ 1998 1997 Catalina Pacific Seacraft 40 ............................ $120,000 $265,000 40’ 400 ......................................... 2022 Gulfstar Nimbus T11 # 151 July 2022 ................. CALL 40’ 1977 Hood 40 ...................................$99,000 40’ Pacific 395 Seacraft 40 ............................. $295,000 39’ 1997 2022 Tartan -6 ....................................... $539,000 40’ T11-80 In Stock 39’ 2022 2023 Nimbus Legacy 12 Downeast OB .......................... ......................... CALL CALL 39’ 2022 Tartan 395 - 6 In Stock ............................. CALL 38’ 2022 Jeanneau SO 380 - Sept 2022 ............... CALL 39’ 2022 Excess 12-29 Cat - In Stock ..................... CALL 38’ 1999 1987 Mainship Hans Christian 38T ...............................$115,000 $93,500 39’ 390 ...................................... 38’ 1981 1997 S&S Prout- Fincraft Manta 38 .......................................... $99,500 38’ ....................................$80,000 2023 Excess Exxcess11-42 11 # 70 2022 ..................... ................... CALL 37’ 2022 Cat- -Sept In Stock Jeanneau SO......................................... 37 ....................................$65,000 37’ 2001 2006 Tartan 3700 $199,900 37’ 2003 2002 Tartan Pacific 3700 Seacraft 37 ............................. $120,000 37’ - Spray ........................... $165,000 37’ 2002 Tartan 3700 - Strider ......................... $185,000 37’ 2000 Tartan 3700 - LIBERTY ..................... $174,500 37’ 1998 J Boat J/37 ................................................$65,000 37’ 2003 Tartan 3700 - Spray ................................... CALL
37’ 2005 Beneteau 373 ...................................... $105,000 37’ 2006 2000 TARTAN 3700 - LIBERTY ................... $159,000 36’ Hunter 36 ................................................ $77,500 37’ 1979 1998 Pearson Searay Sundancer ........................$94,900 36’ 365 ketch 370 .............................. $35,000 37’ 2004 Jeanneau SO 37 ................................. $110,000 35’ 1986 Baltic 35 ................................................... $49,500 37’ 2010 Tartan 3700 ccr - VENTURE ............. $259,000 34’ - 818 in Stock ........... CALL 36’ 2022 1979 Jeanneau PEARSON SO 365349 Ketch ............................$44,000 33’ ........................................ $69,500 36’ 2001 2006 Beneteau Hunter 36331 .................................................$87,500 36’ 1992 2022 Tartan - SPRING 2022 ........................ CALL 30’ Wilbur 365 30 ............................................. $125,000 35’ 2008 1986 Catalina Baltic 35 309 ....................................................$59,500 30’ ........................................... $74,500 34’ 1990 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 34 ...............$86,000 29’ 2022 Nimbus T9 - Twins # 72 In Stock ......... CALL 34’ 2022 Jeanneau SO 349-780 In Stock ............ CALL 26’ T8 # 185Crealock In Stock34...................... CALL 34’ 2022 1994 Nimbus Pacific Seacraft ............ $110,000 27’ 27831 SS.....................................$59,500 ................................. $95,000 31’ 2017 1986 Monterey Island Packet 27’ BCC 31’ 1991 2007 Sam PacifiLc Morse Seacraft 31 .............................. ............................. $135,000 $148,500 29’ 2010 2022 Colgate NImbus T9 CALL 26’ 26 ..................................................... ............................................. $38,900 28’ 1937 2014 Port Searay 280 SunDeck 24’ Carling - Seabird............................$69,500 24 .................. $69,000 26’ 2019 Fantail 26 .................................................$99,900 24’ 1987 Pacific Seacraft Dana 24 ................... $55,000 26’ 2000 Grady White 26 Powercat ...................$49,000 22’ 1998 Sam L Morse Cutter .............................$45,000
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The Little Crab That Got Away by Jefferson Holland
A
s you sail up the Severn River into Annapolis Harbor, you’ll pass Horn Point, where there’s a large white house on the bluff with a deck overlooking the water. If you look closely, you’ll see the hot tub on the deck where the soakers can enjoy the million-dollar view. This was the home of Glen and Melissa, he an up-andcoming injury attorney and she a financial advisor with a prominent national firm. They were one of those doubleincome couples with no children and they were perfectly happy except for one thing: Glen loved to cook and eat crabs, and Melissa couldn’t stand him for it. Glen would be out on the deck every weekend, firing up his Weber grill to get a big pot of water steaming. He’d pop open a can of Natty Boh and pour it into the liquid, then lift the top of a bushel full of number-one jimmies and snap off a crab claw to pry open a fresh can of Old Bay. He’d stick his long-handled tongs into the basket and pull out a big ol’ crab, and there’d be another crab attached to that and another and another, claw to claw, like a paperclip chain. He’d lower the crabs into the pot and sprinkle on the spice and then close the lid and Melissa could hear the tips of the claws scritching against the inside of the pot…until…they…stopped. “How can you do that to those poor, innocent creatures?” she’d whine. “Oh, don’t worry, honey,” Glen would bray, “they don’t feel a thing as they drift off to sleep in the nice, steamy hot water.” And he’d snort that condescending chortle that always raised Melissa’s hackles. This went on, every weekend from Memorial Day to the Fourth of July and on through August. Finally, on Labor Day last year, Glen talked Melissa into throwing a big crab feast, so they invited all of their clients—and both of their friends. Glen bought three whole bushels of jumbo jimmies. They had rented extra picnic tables and arranged them around the deck, carefully covered them with newspapers, and handed
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out the Natty Boh beers as the guests arrived. Glen fired up the Weber and opened up the first bushel. He reached in with his tongs and pulled out a big, fat crab and snapped off a claw to pry open a fresh can of Old Bay. He dumped the crabs into the pot and sprinkled them with the spice and lowered the lid and all Melissa could hear was the scritching of their claws against the inside of the pot… until…they…stopped. “Oh, Glen,” she moaned, “how can you do that?” “Don’t worry, honey,” he guffawed, “they just drift off to sleep in that nice, steamy, hot water.” When he got to the bottom of the third basket, there was just one little crab left. Glen tried to pick it up with the tongs, but it slipped away, landed on the deck, skittled off the edge and plopped into the water below. “Well, honey,” Glen snorted, “there’s one you don’t have to worry about.” After all the crabs had been eaten, all the beer had been drunk, and all the guests had left, Glen and Melissa went about cleaning up. They bundled all the crab shells and gooey bits in the newspapers and hosed everything down. They’d put in a hard day’s work, so they decided to relax with a good soak in the hot tub. While they were there, enjoying the moonrise over their million-dollar waterfront view, they didn’t notice that the little crab that got away…came back. It shimmied slowly up a piling, the moonlight glistening on its little green shell, and sidled slowly across the deck, step by step by step by step, inching closer and closer to the hot tub. Then it reached its claw up to the knob on the thermostat and turned it up… UP…UP. And you know, Glen was right. They didn’t feel a thing as they drifted off to sleep in the nice, steamy hot water. The last thing they saw was the little crab perched on the rim of the tub, silhouetted against the full moon, using its claw to pry open a fresh can of Old Bay.
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