Chesapeake Bay Magazine October 2019

CHESAPEAKE BAY MAGAZINE

Studying A Rising Tide— Urgent Wetland Science

MAGAZINE October 2019

OCTOBER 2019

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JOHN PAGE WILLIAMS ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Admiral of the Bay

Digging Up the Elusive Hayman Sweet Potato

Deadrise Connection— A Son’s Quest for Closure

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Volume 49

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Number 6

PUBLISHER

John Stefancik

MASTERWORKS SERIES

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Evans

Managing Editor: Chris Landers Cruising Editor: Jody Argo Schroath News Director: Meg Walburn Viviano Multimedia Journalist: Cheryl Costello Editors at Large: Wendy Mitman Clarke, Chris D. Dollar, Ann Levelle, John Page Williams Contributing Writers: Rafael Alvarez, Laura Boycourt, Dick Cooper, Ann Eichenmuller, Henry Hong, Marty LeGrand, Emmy Nicklin, Tom Price, Nancy Taylor Robson, Karen Soule

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jill BeVier Allen

Contributing Photographers: Andy Anderson, Mark L. Atwater, John Bildahl, Skip Brown, André Chung, Dan Duffy, Jay Fleming, Austin Green, Jameson Harrington, Mark Hergan, Jill Jasuta, Vince Lupo, Will Parson, Tamzin B. Smith, Chris Witzgall, K.B. Moore

PRODUCTION MANAGER Patrick Loughrey

ADVERTISING DESIGN Mike Ogar

CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION Amy Mahoney a.mahoney@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

ANNAPOLIS SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA

Lisa Pegher, percussion Barber | Richard Danielpour Chadwick | Beethoven

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ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Amy Krimm • 410-693-8613 amy@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Senior Account Manager Lisa Peri • 310-968-1468 lisa@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Senior Account Manager Michael Kucera • 804-543-2687 m.kucera@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Account Manager Emily Stevenson • 410-924-0232 emily@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Publisher Emeritus Richard J. Royer CHESAPEAKE BAY MEDIA, LLC Chief Executive Officer, John Martino Chief Financial Officer, Rocco Martino Executive Vice President, Tara Davis 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403 410-263-2662 • fax 410-267-6924 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Editorial: editor@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Circulation: circ@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Billing: billing@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Chesapeake Bay Magazine (ISSN0045-656X) (USPS 531-470) is published by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC, 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. $25.95 per year, 11 issues annually. $6.99 per copy. Periodical postage paid at Annapolis, MD 21403 and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes or corrections for Chesapeake Bay Magazine to 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. Copyright 2019 by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC— Printed in the U.S.A.

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October 2019

contents On the Cover: John Page WIlliams astride First Light.

Photo by Vince Lupo.

CBM

October 2019 / Volume 49 Number 6

Features

62

Annapolis Sailing

Duff y Perkins on why “The Annapolis Way” sails on.

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62 72 80

Urgent Science

Smithsonian research and the citizen science of climate change—Marty LeGrand

Where We’re Headed

36

30

80 Deadrise Connection

A son’s family quest leads to a Chesapeake workboat—Ann Eichenmuller

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36

Baltimore, Md.

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Annapolis, Md.

72

Edgewater, Md.

80

Trappe, Md.

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St. Mary’s City, Md.

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Exmore, Va.

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Cape Charles, Va.

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86 Boat Show Preview

QUINN BURKHART

Our picks for what to check out at the Annapolis boat shows.

The Wetland of the Future p. 72 October 2019

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CBM

contents

October 2019

Columns

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Chesapeake Chef: Hayman Sweet Potatoes Robert Gustafson digs for

46

the definitive Eastern Shore tuber.

50 56 101

Chesapeake Almanac: Upper Patuxent John Page Williams follows the river.

A regulator for the Chesapeake—John Page Williams.

formidable fight—Capt. Chris D. Dollar

104

56

Jody’s Log: Boat Show Superlatives

Capt. Jody Argo Schroath with the greatest, longest, in-water column in this magazine.

128

Stern Lines: Strange Tails Jan Adkins on the Great Poplar Island Cat farm.

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October 2019

24 30 36

Blessing the Worms Infant Yacht Club Casting Horseface

Departments

On Boats: Regulator 26XO

Wild Chesapeake: Smallmouth Bass Pound for pound, smallies offer a

Talk of the Bay

20 22 42

From the Editor Online Bay Calendar

Advertising Sections

109 114 127

Real Estate Brokerage Advertiser’s Index

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CBM

from the editor

Here’s to the Admiral

by Joe Evans / photo by Dave Harp

A

few months ago, we were stunned to hear that John Page Williams might vacate his Chesapeake Bay Foundation desk after more than four indefatigable decades of expressing the Bay-saving mission. Even though the word came from the man himself, it just didn’t seem plausible. Hard to accept.

How could the man who created the foundation’s education program, wrote the fundamental arguments for caring about this precious resource, and bent so many powerful ears to the tune of conservation and restoration, ever quit? To accept this was to acknowledge perhaps the signs of the end of an era.

Virtually all of us who have evolved toward a Chesapeake conservation mentality owe our enlightenment to his writing, presentations, and the most fortunate occasions of time on the water exploring the Bay’s wonders, possibilities, and salvation. It just couldn’t be true.

Well, it happened quite officially with a send-off at CBF’s Merrill Center over a round of speeches, jokes, Striped Bass Ale, and tears.

Chesapeake Bay Magazine readers know him best through 38 years of features and columns covering his favorite topics—fishing, boats, oysters, clean waters, submerged aquatic vegetation and what we need to know about the Bay and our shared challenges. His original Naturalist’s Almanac column carried us along the waterways and shorelines

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from April 1980 through 1995 and then switched to his Anglers Almanac column running into 2015. He has written most of the magazine’s On Boats reviews of Bay craft and gear.

An updated version of select Naturalist’s Almanac columns emerged in 1993 in a landmark book, Chesapeake Almanac—Following the

Bay through the Seasons. I keep my tattered copy on my desk next to his Exploring the Chesapeake in Small Boats, which was published in 1992— essential references.

Along the way, he wrote Chesapeake: Exploring the Water Trail of Captain John Smith (National Geographic, 2007) and the Boater’s Guide to the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail

(chesapeakeconservancy.org, 2016) while recording John Smith Trail stories for NOAA’s audio tour (buoybay.noaa.gov).

In 2013, I pitched the idea of an official John Page Williams Admiral of the Bay designation to the Governor, and he went for it. It was all we needed to throw a huge party at the Boatyard Bar & Grill where we renamed the beer taps after his skiff (First Light Lager) handed out engraved pint glasses (First Light Night), permanently hung a John Bildahl photo on the wall, and roasted John Page for about five glorious hours, thanks especially to our host, bar owner, and steadfast Bay supporter Dick Franyo. It was a grand conservation celebration for the Chesapeake’s most effective advocate.

In 2016, his naturalist’s column returned to CBM as Chesapeake Almanac. All this while holding court at CBF as an educator, writer, editor, and mentor.

And here, I’m pleased to assure you that the John Page Williams caravan rolls on in these pages and all around the Chesapeake. We look forward to continuing our alliance by publishing his columns, reviews, and features— and we will ride with him on the Bay and rivers for more fishing and listening.

We are so fortunate to be able to share him with you. joe@chesapeakebaymagazine.com

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CBM

talk of the bay New Roots Youth Garden volunteers at the 9th annual Blessing of the Worms.

Blessing the Worms New Roots Youth Garden grows character in Cape Charles story and photos by Clara Vaughn

E

ach spring, pint-sized gardeners gather in a plot on Virginia’s Eastern Shore to kick off the growing season with a special ceremony.

The Blessing of the Worms is New Roots Youth Garden’s first communitywide event of the year, offering visitors a chance to learn about the not-for-profit children’s garden club and purchase plants for their own yards.

A rotating cast of clergy from the small town of Cape Charles and surrounding area churches pray for a prosperous year before children toting the “Worm Wagon” spread the anointed annelids in raised beds.

“Gardening reduces anxiety, it can help with symptoms of ADHD and it provides satisfaction and teaches kids about the results of work,” said Brook Thomas, Garden Club president.

“They try things that they would never try because they’ve grown it,” said Tammy Holloway, one of the Youth Garden’s founding members.

The concept behind a children’s community garden emerged during thesis work by Laurie Klingel, owner of Appleseed Nurseries in nearby Eastville.

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A group of Cape Charles residents rallied behind the concept, forming a nonprofit to launch what is now a thriving plot on Fig Street, the town’s main thoroughfare.

We “went door to door and introduced ourselves to grandparents and parents and said, ‘We’re going to have this kids’ garden on Thursday.

We’d love for you to come with your children,’” said Holloway. “And it worked—they showed up.”

Seven members kicked off the first garden club sessions in 2010, after the town of Cape Charles allowed the group to use the Fig Street plot free of charge. The town provided electricity, mowing, and water to help the new operation get off the ground.

A small team of individuals and organizations soon donated supplies and labor to install a fence separating the garden from the busy street, as well as picnic tables and a shed.

“That set the tone for it just being a giving place,” Holloway said.

Today, more than 30 local groups and individuals donate to the garden club and around 30 volunteers help keep the operation running, Thomas said.

SEE THE SMITHSONIAN IN CAMBRIDGE Water/Ways exhibit explores the role of water in our lives Oct. 19-Nov. 30, 2019

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Smithsonian October 2019 VisitDorchester.org/WaterWays

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October 2019

Gathering Volunteers also earthworms to serve as role models place in the garden beds. for the young gardeners, she added.

“In the past nine or eight years, we have taken it and expanded the garden and really figured out what works and what didn’t work,” said Thomas.

“We’ve kind of found our groove.”

Between 15 and 30 young gardeners participate in the weekly sessions on Thursday nights from 5-6:30 p.m. during the spring, summer, and fall. The club welcomes anyone to join the activities, whether it is for one week or an entire season.

Children ages five to 13 make up the garden club core, though younger children can participate in the “Littles Garden,” and older members can volunteer to help keep the operation running, Thomas said.

The garden’s unofficial motto, “Get creative, get dirty, get fit,” describes the trio of activities children engage in every week.

“There’s Get Creative, which is educational, experiential learning where they can apply the things that they’re learning. And then Get Dirty [where they] get their hands in the garden. And then Get Fit—activities

that keep them moving,” Thomas said.

Children cycle through each activity by age, helping keep even the most active gardeners engaged, Holloway said. Club organizers also bring guests from groups such as 4-H, Kiptopeke State Park, and the Beekeepers Guild of the Eastern Shore to offer hands-on learning throughout the year.

Each season brings a unique set of activities to the garden, with summer marked by the opening of the farm stand. After harvesting, which most participants agree is their favorite activity, the young gardeners weigh and

measure produce, greet customers, and count change at the stand.

“We rotate a couple kids through the farm stand so they can learn to look people in the eye when they talk to them,” Thomas said.

“These are social skills that children learn … that really made a difference,” Holloway said.

Proceeds from the stand help support the garden, which runs thanks to a mix of grants and community donations.

In addition to its Blessing of the Worms, the garden hosts several fundraisers throughout the year, including the Fourth of July Guppie Challenge fishing tournament, which draws around 100 children to the Cape Charles pier each year.

There will be a fall fundraiser this year, although plans are still in the works, Thomas said.

At the end of each garden club session, participants bring home a brown bag of produce. The only rule, she said, is “they have to try it, and report back next week.”

“It’s cool for Volunteer and Master them to see.

Gardener Phil Gotkin From when they helps Susan Carrigan, center, and LD Davis plant things, purchase plants during they can watch the 9th annual Blessing of the Worms. them grow and October 2019

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CBM

talk of the bay

excited about eating new foods— including hot peppers and Brussels sprouts straight from the stalk.

“It’s just a lot of fun,” said 11-yearold Daniela Siegrist, who has been coming to the garden club since its inception.

In addition to attending events like the Blessing of the Worms, those interested in supporting New Roots Youth Garden can visit the farm stand Thursday evenings during garden club sessions, 5-6:30 p.m. most weeks during the spring, summer and fall.

Clara Vaughn is a freelance writer on Virginia’s Eastern Shore.

NEW ROOTS YOUTH GARDEN COST: Free AGES: 5 to 13 WHERE: 50 Fig Street, Cape Charles on Virginia’s Eastern Shore WHEN: Thursdays from 5-6:30 p.m. during spring, summer and fall.

The garden club takes severalweek breaks between each season, so check dates in advance—helpnewrootsyouth garden@gmail.com. The fall session kicked off on September 12.

O PE N FO R

PARTICIPATION: Younger children participate in the Littles Garden.

Older youth and adult gardeners are invited to volunteer.

PE D D LE R S Biking on the Indian Head Rail Trail

Charles County provides visitors with plenty of “Room to Explore.” It’s well situated and is a great place to explore a range of historical and

environmental

experiences on bikes.

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OPEN FOR IT ExploreCharlesCounty.com

October 2019

SUPPORT: Mail checks payable to New Roots Youth Garden to P.O. Box 383, Cape Charles, Virginia 23310 or visit nryg.webs.com and click the donation button.

FOLLOW: facebook.com/ NewRootsYouthGarden or nryg. webs.com and Instagram at @ newrootsyouthgarden.

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talk of the bay

The Infant Yacht Club A storied command for the Bay’s smallest sailors.

by Laura Boycourt

T

here’s an exclusive club of Chesapeake boaters that doesn’t get much attention, although the club’s been around a while and its membership steadily grows. It’s a motley crew, to be sure—only a few members are now old enough to vote, some are just learning to tie their shoes, and others are more concerned with making Rice Krispy treats than sailboat racing. But each

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member has his or her name etched into the club plaque, a formal record of their membership and a commemoration of their time spent in the club’s flagship vessel: A homemade sailing cradle.

The Infant Yacht Club began with sailor, woodworker, and honorary commodore-for-life Steve Eagley.

About 20 years ago when Eagley learned that sailing friends from their time at St. Mary’s College were expecting a baby, he decided to stray from the predictable diaper bag cake and onesie gifts. Being drawn to unique creations and special traditions, he decided to present the couple with a one-of-a-kind treasure: a scaled-down Optimist dinghy in the form of a rocking cradle, without the rig.

The Optimist, or “Opti”, as you probably know, is a boxy, stable and perfectly sized training boat for beginner sailors, and, it turns out, beginning humans. Over several weeks, Eagley worked in a friend’s basement, sticking close to a set of Optimist plans but scaling down and adjusting here and there to ensure the vessel was baby-safe. Envisioned not as a silver spoon but as more of a Chesapeake Bay “working cradle,” as Eagley describes it, he kept things simple. The Opti’s bow and transom are wood, her bottom and sides are honeycomb-plastic-cored fiberglass (Nida-Core for composite engineering and modern boatbuilding geeks).

She’s finished with oak strips inside, a three-strand rub rail around the gunwales, and a varnished teak frame, which allows it to gently rock like a traditional cradle, or even a true Opti bobbing on the water.

The gift was a hit, but once the baby outgrew it, the cradle seemed fated for a lifetime of collecting stuffed animals and dust in the corner of the nursery. The parents returned it to

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Design production by: Mike

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talk of the bay

Eagley, who decided that perhaps the cradle could become something of a “perpetual trophy for other babies,” he says. Thus began the tradition of passing it around to friends, with each family returning it to him when their liveaboards passed the early stages of babyhood. So, off the cradle would go to a new nursury to sway another newborn to sleep.

Eagley captained the offshore team at St. Mary’s College and has navigated waters near and far, thus the Opti-cradle mariners are mostly sailing connections. It’s good to catch up with old friends and hear if they might be interested in temporarily commanding the cradle. It’s an excuse to get in touch. “‘I would love for you to have this...here’s the story’,” he says to expectant parents.

Once the cradle has a new slip, Eagley might ask for a photo of the boat in use for an unofficial yearbook of sorts. He makes it ship-shape and delivers it to the next family. It’s been all around the Bay and as far north in the watershed as New York State. The roster of Opti babies sits around 20, and Eagley says he’d love to see the tradition continue on.

As if things couldn’t get any sweeter for the nautical newborns, he made a plaque where the names of every sleepy captain is engraved. It’s continuously updated and has been replaced once to accommodate the growing list of crew members.

Regina and Tom Weaver, who became acquainted with Eagley from the Annapolis racing circuit, took delivery of the cradle for Imogen, who has recently out grown it.

“When Tom told me Steve was bringing by the Opti cradle, I thought he was insane,” Regina says, assuming the vessel was a full-sized Optimist. “It would be sitting in our backyard for five years at least before we would use it.” Once she saw it,

October 2019

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talk of the bay

perfectly sized for the voyage, she welcomed it in. “The cradle was super functional for us and a great conversation piece. It fit perfectly beside our bed,” she explains.

“It’s a fun connection with other sailing folks in the area who have also used the cradle,” says Tom. “It’s like a little secret yacht club for newborns.”

Lew Van Wambeke, a St. Mary’s friend, inherited the cradle when son Jared, now 10, was born. “It is so cool to see all the nameplates inscribed with these families who used the cradle, all connected in various ways to Steve and family.” He adds that the Opti is just so darn good looking, “Everyone was asking us where they could buy one.”

Although it’s unlikely that Eagley will build hull number two, it’s likely that he’ll keep busy as the cradle continues its Chesapeake passages.

He’s a financial planner living outside of Annapolis where he’s restoring a farmhouse on a picturesque, rolling spread with his rescue horses and other animals. He spends time with his daughters, Opti crew members Norah and Audrey, aged 14 and 11; races a laser each week; and makes it to the Caribbean and his Voyage 520 sailing catamaran when he can.

As he reflects on the Opti cradle and where it’s been and where it’s going, it’s clear that it has meant a lot to him as a tether to friends, family, and the future. “Whenever I build something, the intent, for me, whether it’s restoring something or building something new, it’s something that can get passed to kids,” he says. “I hope my kids will use it, their kids will use it…”

Laura Boycourt is a freelance writer, mom to two little pirates, and lifelong boater from Annapolis.

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The Men Behind the Horse The Baltimore inspiration for the stevedores of The Wire

by Rafael Alvarez

I

had a brief glimpse of Fells Point—known to earlier generations as “the foot of Broadway”—in its last days as a true seafaring village. Rag and rope shops.

Union halls. Street drunks lining up at the Port Mission for a bowl of soup and a slice of bread, and boarding houses.

It was the mid-1960s, just before the hippies arrived, unwittingly launching a gentrification that is now complete.

At one of the first Fells Point festivals when I was 11-years-old, I spotted someone I was pretty sure was a man but was gussied up as a woman: draped in a muumuu, garish make-up, costume jewelry and as big around as my Polish grandmother’s lady friends. The object of my fascination was having a great time, drinking and laughing with a cool-looking entourage in front of the Recreation Pier where the tugboats docked.

When Mom caught me staring, concerned perhaps that I would skip on over to say hello, she pulled me back and told me to stay put. Twenty years later, without ever having said that hello, I filed a story about the funeral of the person

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who had so entranced me: Harris Glenn Milstead, known around the world as Divine.

My father worked those tugs and our family’s closest friends, the Garayoa/Karcz family, owned a saloon at 805 South Broadway. We were in the neighborhood all the time; ate paella at a Spanish restaurant called Corral’s and watched the locals— daredevils and roughnecks unlike the kids in the suburbs—play football in the square when it was a parking lot.

Sometimes, my brother Danny and I would go with our father to his favorite gin mill, Zeppie’s, at the corner of Ann and Thames, to drink Coca-Cola and eat 15-cent bags of Wise potato chips near the shuffleboard table while he enjoyed a few cold ones, “shooting the breeze” with friends at the bar.

Their conversation was always the same: Ships. The docking of ships, the loading of ships (unloading them was

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talk of the bay

an art in itself, if you were in the market for a hot radio), and who was an ace at their job, and which unlucky son-of-a-bitch was the most recent to lose a finger on the job.

It was these men—stevedores, deckhands, cooks, drunks, line handlers, family men, captains and thieves—on whom I based some of the waterfront characters in The Wire when David Simon invited me to join the writing staff in 2002.

They bore names and nicknames that could easily be swapped out for the fictional laborers representing the milieu on screen: Lukowski and Machlinski; Pinhead, Joe Blow and Ronnie Rotten Crotch; Romey and Frenchie.

I took a little bit from each to infuse the “I play-one-on-TV” stevedores with enough Old Bay and National Boh to make them believable; perhaps best shown in the garrulous opening of season two at Delores’ bar, Clement and Jackon streets in Federal Hill. You might remember it as the scene where Ziggy the Goof engages in some very personal advertising.

As Zeppie’s has not been Zeppies for two generations, the tavern that portrayed Delores’ is now—just like Miss Bonnie’s Elvis Bar on the eastside—a private home.

Of all of Frank Sobotka’s crew (“Frank” from the father of a Polish friend of mine, “Sobotka” taken from a tombstone in Dundalk) the longshoreman closest to my heart was Horseface Pakusa.

Horseface—“Horse” to his peers—was played by the now 79-year-old Charley Scalies of Philadelphia, the city 100 miles northeast of Crabtown where the local patois comes closest to approximating English as it is mangled on the shores of the Patapsco.

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talk of the bay

Perfectly cast (“I just play myself,” he said) Scalies looks like a stevedore, talks like a stevedore, walks like a stevedore and, in all the best ways, doesn’t give a shit like a stevedore. The eye deceives and fiction amplifies.

“The only time I have even been on the docks is when I worked on The Wire,” said Scalies, who grew up in a South Philly poolroom owned by his father at 1526 Reed Street. “And the only time I even met a stevedore was shortly after I was cast as Horseface.”

One day, he said, he and his wife of 56 years, the former Angeline Cardamone, were having lunch near the Philadelphia waterfront. At the next table were a half-dozen or so stevedores and International Longshoremen’s Association union reps.

“I told them I had just been cast as a union “checker” on a TV show,” remembered Scalies. “Their response was immediate and unanimous: ‘He looks like a checker!’”

An industrial sales manager and consultant who tried his hand at acting in the 1980s just for the hell of it (he also played Tony Soprano’s high school wrestling coach on that other HBO drama), Scalies said the stevedores he met in Baltimore, where ships have been loaded and unloaded since the founding of Fells Point in the mid-18th century, were no different from the men he knew growing up with in South Philadelphia.

“Blue collar, hard-working, no BS, irreverent and very funny,” he said.

“My father’s favorite line was, ‘When I graduated from the second grade, I was so nervous I couldn’t shave.”

Charley’s old man, “Chappie,” was also known to host high-stakes poker games in the basement of his poolroom and thus was not unknown to police or men who drove trucks, filled potholes, made spaghetti sauce and unloaded ships.

In Fells Point, one of the big wheels in the ILA was the bookie for

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half the merchants at the Broadway Market, back when you could have a butcher cut pork chops just the way you liked them or order a hot dog and milkshake from the sidewalk.

I vividly remember being all of seven-years-old and playing Beatles’ singles (I Saw Her Standing There stands out) on the jukebox at Karcz’s Cafe, which by then was only open to people the owners knew.

Simone Garayoa—the Basque from Bilbao who worked with my father on the Baker-Whiteley Towing Company tugs and was married to Agnes Karcz who grew up at 805 South Broadway— sometimes asked me and Danny to pick numbers. Any number with three digits. We did—it felt fun and important—and Mr. Simone, with his big, warm smile jotted them down on a napkin.

We were never told what the numbers were for any more than I was able to fathom whether Divine was a man or a woman. But I knew it was an integral part of life along South Broadway not present along the manicured lawns of Linthicum Heights where my father’s union wage allowed him and Mom a quarter-acre of the American Dream.

I remembered all of it when I sat down to conjure men who used wooden shovels—Horseface Pakusa prime among them—to unload steel hulls heavy with grain because the spark from a metal shovel would go ka-boom.

“As with all the other characters I’ve been blessed to portray, Horseface lives inside of me,” said Scalies. “I invite him out to play as needed.”

Rafael Alvarez is the author of Basilio Boullosa Stars in the Fountain of Highlandtown, a collection of short stories of Baltimore’s ethno-urban experience. He can be reached via orlo.leini@gmail.com.

Celebrating Why We Live Here The Hidden History of the Bay’s Favorite Spice

A Local’s Guide to Centreville, Md.

Winter Crab Count Predicts Bay Harvest

Young Ospreys Spread Their Wings

A Mystery Beneath the Chester River

Slow Your Roll With Seakeeper

MAGAZINE June 2018

ebrating Our Iconic Bivalve

Young Ospreys Spread Their Wings

MAGAZINE August 2018

Good Gear

Summer’s in the Bag

The Cocktail Class Tiny Handmade Racers with a Twist

Crevalle 26 Bay A Littoral Standout

“I put Old Bay on my Old Bay.”

plus

BLUEWATER BOUNTY

Chasing a Catch in the Open Ocean

Butter Pat’s Cast Iron Pan Richard Scofield’s 33 Years Tending Bay Treasures

Fast Food at the Hard Crab Derby

National Folk Festival Debuts in Salisbury

The St. Michaels Concours d’Elegance

what’s a coddie? p. 28

The BOAT SHOW Issue

MAGAZINE October 2018

MAGAZINE September 2018

Life Finds a Way On the Chester River

Ed Farley Keeping Oyster Traditions Alive

Preserving a Historic Easton Neighborhood

MAGAZINE November 2018

JAY FLEMING’s

MURDER AT THE Holland Island Light

PRIVATEER

plus

OYSTER GARDEN

Following the Trail of

HARRIET TUBMAN

Turning Science Into Chesapeake Gold

THE INS AND OUTS

Star Class Champions

HELMSMAN 38E

TENDING YOUR &

Enjoy the View From the Top of the Bay

FIRST LOOK—p.88

OF SURF FISHING

HOOPERS ISLAND OYSTER COMPANY

Makes Its Marque

Planning Makes a Practical Cruiser

SET SAIL IN OXFORD

plus

GUIDE TO MARINE SERVICES

RANGER TUGS R-27 A New Breed of Outboard Cruiser

p. 70

plus

PILOT BOAT DAYS

Remembrances of Ships Past

Winter’s Freeze Brings Iceboat Dreams

Eastern Shoreman’s Call of the Wild

Whalertowne Comes to Annapolis

MAGAZINE January /February 2019

Tiny Christchurch School Takes Down the Sailing Titans—p. 32

TILGHMAN TO THE STARS A Chesapeake Bugeye’s Space Shuttle Ride

THE OTHER SHELLFISH

Bringing Back Bay Scallops

DORCHESTER COUNTY’S

Muskrat Love

WATCHING FOR WHALES A Maritime Mystery plus

GEARING UP AT THE BALTIMORE BOAT SHOW p. 74

MAGAZINE March 2019

Waterman Nat Jones’ Life on the Bay

D.C.’s Fish Market Navigates a Sea Change

MAGAZINE April 2019

BEYOND THE BAY

The Favorite Lures of Chesapeake Fishermen

#MadeOnTheBay Virginia Beach’s Seigler Reels

Trout in the Tributaries

CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVERS

Who’s a Good Dog?

Rye Whiskey

ORIGINS p. 28

plus

BAY STORM POCKETS Where to go when the Weather Blows—p. 65

plus

CHESAPEAKE CHEF

Woodberry Kitchen’s Cast Iron Rockfish—p. 28

Stay informed with breaking Chesapeake news with our free Bay Bulletin newsletter.

Subscribe at ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

October 2019

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CBM Oct 2

bay calendar

Great American Food Fest If it’s fried

u To find more fun events around the Bay, visit chesapeakebaymagazine.com/events.

4-5

Mid-Atlantic Small Craft Festival The

6

Virginia Beach Cupcake Festival A cupcake

or barbecued, get it here while it’s hot, and wash it down with a

thing about small craft is it’s so easy to take one home, which

festival! For charity! Celebrate the smallest members of the cake

cold one. There will be live entertainment, and proceeds go to the

will be the beginning of a life-long obsession. Visit with other

family by eating them, listening to music, and possibly running a 5k

Ruritan charity—Chesapeake, Va. thegreatamericanfoodfest.com

sufferers at CBMM this weekend—St. Michaels. cbmm.org

(before the cupcakes, please). Proceeds go to the Children’s Hospital

3-6

5

United States Powerboat Show Vroom-

of the King’s Daughters—Virginia Beach. vabcupcakefest.com

Easton Beer Fest Grab some cold ones from a

vroom enthusiasts from far and wide come to Annapolis to

vast selection of craft beers and ciders, and alleviate your

10-13

check out the latest offerings at the annual powerboat show.

day-drinking guilt by supporting the volunteer fire department.

threat of wet leaves, autumn is the best time for motorcycling

Satisfy all your boat and boating accessory needs—Annapolis.

Discounted tickets for designated drivers are available—Easton.

in the Chesapeake region, mainly because all that leather

annapolisboatshows.com

eastonbeerfest.com

gear gets really hot. Enjoy the crisp air and motor down to

3-10

Chesapeake Film Festival A week of all

5

Colonial Beach Bike Fest Despite the

Colonial Beach for some rock and roll, skills contests, and to

Hurlock Fall Fest and Train Rides The festival

check out what everybody else rode there—Colonial Beach. colonialbeachbikefest.com

kinds of movies, from short documentaries to feature films. Of

kicks off with a 10 a.m. parade, and face painting, food vendors,

particular interest are the two programs of environmental shorts

and free pony rides; but the real draw is the Fall Festival Express

(featuring a variety of takes on the Bay) and made in Maryland

train ride, departing every hour and-a-half starting at 11 for a

10-14

short films, and the feature-length documentary The Wild Ponies

round trip from Hurlock to Federalsburg and back—Hurlock.

time when sailors from around the globe descend on Naptown

of Chincoteague. Venues in Easton, Cambridge, and Oxford.

dorchesterchamber.org

to crawl in and out of the latest boats and assess the latest sailing

chesapeakefilmfestival.com

United States Sailboat Show It’s that

gadgets. Stop by and say hello at the Chesapeake Bay Magazine booth! annapolisboatshows.com

12

Chincoteague Oyster Festival This sells out early, but for the lucky ticketholders, there’ll be oysters served every which way. For a balanced meal, they also have clams. Word to the wise—the beer tent only

COURTESY PHOTOS

accepts cash— Chincoteague. chincoteagueoysterfestival.com

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continued on page 44

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CBM

13

bay calendar

Oyster Wars Finally, the Oyster Wars will be settled amicably on the neutral ground of the Salt Line restaurant in D.C.. Presented in partnership with the Other Half Brewing Company, the war will be fought with all-you-can-eat

COURTESY OF PAUL KIM

oysters and tastings from local chefs and oyster farms. Sounds much nicer. The Salt Line—Washington. thesaltline.com

12

Nanticoke River Jamboree Join

26

OysterFest Get your oysters served every which

Water/Ways: The Underground Railroad

way, along with craft beer, local music, and kid’s activities. Get a

The Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad Visitor Center in

skills demonstrations from colonial, native, and African

taste of what it’s like to be a waterman (or an oyster) with a ride

conjunction with the Smithsonian Water/Ways exhibit

American cultures. This year they’re celebrating Dorchester’s

on the historic buyboat Winnie Estelle. Chesapeake Bay Maritime

presents The Underground Railroad in Dorchester County:

350th anniversary. Handsel Historic site, Vienna, Md.

Museum, St. Michaels, Md. cbmm.org

Community & Communication on the Water, detailing the role that water played in conveying enslaved people to freedom. Dorchester

nanticokeriverjamboree.com

12

Center for the Arts—Cambridge. visitdorchester.org/waterways

Patuxent River Appreciation Day Read

what John Page Williams has to say about the Patuxent River (page 50), then go check it out for yourself, at the Calvert Marine Museum—Solomons. calvertmarinemuseum.com

19

Dank Day Beer Festival Too many breweries to

along the Choptank River. Last year, festival-goers from around the country descended to try out the nation’s best breweries, one two-ounce sampling glass at a time—Cambridge. rarbrewing.com

20

26

Great Halloween Lantern Parade Baltimore’s Creative Alliance puts together this Halloween party in Patterson Park, and afterwards, you can grab a lantern and parade through the night! The festival offers lantern making,

hayrides, live music, an arts & crafts market, local food trucks, and a beer garden. Patterson Park—Baltimore. creativealliance.org

count will be on hand for RAR’s festival of beers in Sailwinds Park

Salem Avery Oyster Fest Visit the home of

waterman Capt. Salem Avery and enjoy oysters, crab races, and other events for the kids, all to a soundtrack of bluegrass, jazz, and rock by local musicians. Captain Avery Museum—Shady Side. captainaverymuseum.org

44

26

Dorchester County’s largest living history event, with

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

October 2019

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October 2019

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CBM

chesapeake chef

The Eastern Shore’s gustatory passion for Haymans has remained enflamed for over 160 years.

On the Trail of the Elusive Hayman Virginia’s Eastern Shore farmers and foodies nurture a fragile sweet potato story by Robert Gustafson / photo by Jay Paul

I

n the weeks before Thanksgiving, cooks up and down the Eastern Shore of Virginia begin their annual scavenger hunt to secure a prized staple of the turkey-day dinner, the elusive Hayman sweet potato.

Haymans are a white-skinned, light-green-fleshed, and sparsely-cultivated variety that is often avoided by farmers due to low yields and by consumers for their gnarly shapes. Yet Haymans are prized by Eastern Shore epicures despite being largely unknown beyond the Delmarva peninsula, southeastern Virginia, and northeastern North Carolina.

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So sweet that they drip sticky black sap from their ends, the Hayman’s pale, sage-colored flesh tastes naturally like honey with a pinch of cardamom when baked.

Doused with gravy, mashed into pies or folded into biscuits, Haymans have achieved iconic status among many in the know.

“When you bake that Hayman potato, that is one of the best potatoes you are ever going to sink your teeth in. They are delicious baked, fried, slide-to-the-side, however you want to do them— they are good!,” says Tonja King, longtime employee at Marilyn’s Fruit and Vegetable Stand in Exmore, Virginia.

“In the fall,” she adds, “People flock

here to get Haymans. They go like hotcakes.”

As the story goes, Haymans first came to southeastern Virginia in the mid-1850s when Captain Daniel Hayman docked his ship in Elizabeth City, North Carolina. A visiting Methodist minister noticed an unusual looking sweet potato the captain had picked up as cargo in a Caribbean port and acquired some for propagation.

The eponymous Hayman sweet potato spread across the Delmarva alongside the sermons of Methodist missionaries, exchanged at tent revivals and carried on their ecclesiastical sailing skiffs as they visited isolated churches far up Eastern Shore creeks. In their quest to save souls, the preachers also converted Eastern Shore taste buds to the heavenly Hayman sweet potato glory.

The Hayman was initially hailed as highly productive and a good winter keeper. By the turn of the 20th century the Hayman was a ubiquitous commercial cultivar on the Eastern Shore and shipped by train and boat to markets in New York, Baltimore and Philadelphia.

But other cultivars have long eclipsed the Hayman in these desirable traits leaving the Hayman with little but its knockout taste.

The Hayman’s parsimonious yield of marketable tubers (sweet potatoes are technically root tubers) is perhaps the principal reason it has not thrived commercially. A 2018 study by Virginia Tech found that Haymans trailed the sweet potato pack in terms of productivity. The study concluded that, “Many local consumers prefer the white variety Hayman, but alternative white-flesh varieties with better yield and storage root quality are available

for commercial production.” The clear message to farmers, “Don’t grow Haymans.”

The Hayman’s rarity, historical significance and unique flavor was recognized when it was elected to Slow Food USA’s Ark of Taste, a “living catalog of delicious and distinctive foods facing extinction.” Slow Food USA says of the Hayman, “In the 21st century it has become the signature sweet potato of the Virginia Eastern Shore. Greatly prized locally . . . the Hayman is a varietal that remains limited in its circulation. Current production is limited to a small group of growers who share seed stock and cultivation practices.”

This handful of dedicated planters keep the tradition of the Hayman sweet potatoes alive, mainly for an appreciative local audience. In Northampton County, the heart of the Hayman’s traditional range, the bulk

Amy Brandt’s Hayman Spoonbread INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

1 cup

21/4 cups

2 tsp 11/2 tsp 11/2 tsp 2 oz 3 cups 11/2 cups 4 Tbsp ¼ tsp 1/8 tsp 5

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees 2. Butter a casserole dish with softened butter. Coat the butter with bread crumbs and knock out the excess.

3. In a medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Set aside.

4. Combine the cream, Hayman sweet potato, maple syrup, nutmeg and cayenne. Set aside.

5. Bring to a boil the water with the butter. Remove from heat and rain in the cornmeal mixture. Whisk to combine completely.

6. Whisk into cornmeal mixture the cream mixture a bit at a time until all is incorporated. Whisk a very small amount of the warm cornmeal mixture into the egg yolks adding three more small amounts. Add the yolk mixture into the cornmeal mixture, combining completely.

7. Whisk the egg whites until stiff. Gently fold into cornmeal mixture 8. Transfer the mixture to the prepared casserole. Place in oven and bake for 45 minutes or until just set. h

baked Hayman sweet potato pulp Pungo Mills Creek Mills cornmeal* or commercial stone ground cornmeal kosher salt baking soda baking powder butter water cream maple syrup nutmeg cayenne pepper eggs—separated

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chesapeake chef

The Classic Eastern Shore Hayman Baking Method 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Heat oven to 350 degrees Wash Hayman sweet potatoes well and dry. Do not pierce them with a fork!

Rub all over with cooking oil or Crisco.

Bake on a cookie sheet for an hour or until a knife easily slides into them.

Remove from oven and cover with a dampened kitchen towel for at least a half-hour as they cool. They are ready to be eaten as-is or used in other recipes.

of the Haymans are grown by just three men: Bill Jardine (and his son, Billy) and William Baines, both in the tiny hamlet of Machipongo, and W.T. Nottingham in the southern reaches of the county.

Baines grows Haymans to sell at his Machipongo farmstand on Route 13. His nephew, James Braxton, says, “Once word is out we have Haymans, they flock here. No one ever asks about red sweet potatoes. But if we planted every acre we have in Haymans we could sell them all here on the Shore. Haymans are sweeter, almost syrupy, and make a better pie.

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BPI.CBM_Ad_2.125x9.75.indd 1

October 2019 8/13/19 3:45 PM

You don’t even need to add spice.”

Nottingham says “Haymans are a tradition that is fading,” not because people have lost their taste for Haymans, but because fewer and fewer growers make the effort to cultivate the unpredictable and largely unprofitable tuber. “Some years the yield is good and some not, and there is no predictability.

Grand sum total, you might have ten acres of Haymans growing on [Virginia’s] Eastern Shore that I am aware of,” he estimates. Despite all that, he says, “We sell out in two weeks every fall.”

Virginia farmers reported growing just 136 acres of sweet potatoes in 2012, down from a high of 19,000 acres in the 1960s. Nevertheless, the Eastern Shore’s gustatory passion for Haymans has remained enflamed for over 160 years.

Bill Jardine—a Delaware native who moved to the Eastern Shore more than 40 years ago—and his son, Billy, cultivate about five acres of Haymans for sale in their Quail Cove Farms store. “No matter how hard you chase the Hayman, no one is going to make a living off it. You have to grow it out of the love of the Hayman,” he says. Why do people go out of their way to get Haymans for Thanksgiving?

“People want something that is real.

Haymans are rich in tradition. They are not real common, and they are a way to explore a new taste,” he adds.

Hayman sweet potatoes are not just for Thanksgiving. Although commonly eaten baked or utilized as

prime pie timber, Haymans are versatile and add their spicy, honey flavor to any recipe that calls for sweet potato or squash or as a unique substitution for Irish potatoes.

Chef Amy Brandt reflects, “There is nothing like a Hayman. They are one of the super-special ingredients we have here, and that is something I like to honor in my cooking.” “Haymans stand by themselves. There is a beauty in a small, well-cooked Hayman sweet potato. Cook them slowly and be sure to eat the skin,” she says.

If you can get them. The supply is scooped up in a few weeks, but those lucky enough to obtain the real thing will savor a sweet slice of Eastern Shore culinary history and tradition second to none. h Robert Gustafson is an eastern-shoreman by way of Chicago, Harvard, and a career on Capitol Hill. He lives near Exmore, Va., where he coaches the Broadwater Academy track and cross-country teams.

WHERE TO GET THEM BAINES’ FARM STAND— Southeast corner of Bell Lane and Route 13, Machipongo. Haymans grown in the field next to the stand are available starting in late October or early November.

MARILYN’S FRUIT & VEGETABLE STAND—Northwest corner of Route 13 and Occohannock Neck Road, Exmore. Open seasonally 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

No phone.

PICKETT’S HARBOR FARMS—3119 Pickett’s Harbor Drive, Cape Charles, 757-331-2682. pickettsharbor.farm and Facebook. Available in early November until they are sold out.

QUAIL COVE FARMS—12435 Machipongo Lane, Machipongo. 757-6787783. qualicovefarms.com. Available in mid-November and sell out quickly.

PUNGO CREEK MILLS—757-442-6327, pungocreekmills@verizon.net produces the heirloom cornmeal called for in Amy Brandt’s spoonbread recipe. Bill and Laurel Savage produce meal from multi-hued Indian corn that has been grown on the Eastern Shore of Virginia for over 165 years.

The cornmeal has an unusual texture, color and flavor and is well worth seeking out.

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One of many Patuxent River trips on the author's trusty Boston Whaler, First Light.

Going to the River Making the most of the upper Patuxent River story by John Page Williams / photos by Vince Lupo

O

nly ten miles east of the Capital Beltway’s outer loop, you will find public lands and launch ramps along the Patuxent River to take you back to the nineteenth century, the early seventeenth century, and even the Archaic period, when Indians hunted, trapped, and fished these woods and waters as rising sea levels formed the Chesapeake’s sprawling complex of navigable rivers.

This river has educated, inspired, and delighted me for almost five decades as I have shared them throughout the seasons with students, teachers, and friends aboard a Chesapeake Bay Foundation canoe fleet and First Light, my trusty 17-foot Boston Whaler.

Here, the river remains largely rural with broad marshes and old-growth forests preserved from development by Prince George’s, Anne Arundel, and Calvert Counties, especially around Jug Bay, just below the Route 4 bridge. The river here is tidal fresh, which may sound like an oxymoron, but every river in the Chesapeake has a section where fresh water flowing from its watershed pushes salt water downstream past the head of navigation. Depending on watershed size and rainfall, the length of this section can be as short as a quarter-mile or as long as thirty miles. On the Patuxent, the average is about fifteen miles.

This section of Maryland’s longest river is ideal for exploring creeks like the Mattaponi by canoe or kayak. I also love to travel a bit faster in my skiff to see how the river evolves from its narrow upper tidal reaches down through Jug Bay to

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Nottingham, Lower Marlboro, and the marshes opposite Magruder’s Ferry. We can thank Prince George’s County’s Patuxent River Park, Anne Arundel County’s Jug Bay Wetlands Sanctuary, and Calvert County’s King’s Landing Park for providing great access to the river.

Blending Natural and Human History My favorite point of view for exploring the Patuxent is through “environmental history,” thinking about how the river ecosystem and humans have blended over time. Marsh plants are largely seed-bearing annuals like wild rice, tearthumb, and tickseed sunflower interspersed with perennials such as cattails. They attract migratory waterfowl—black ducks, Canada geese, tundra swans... The waters teem with white perch, channel and blue catfish, and largemouth bass. The fish draw great blue herons, ospreys, and bald eagles. The marshes and wooded

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Relax & Enjoy

Lovely waterviews and gorgeous sunsets in a quiet marina setting, just minutes from the best fishing and cruising the Chesapeake Bay has to offer.

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October 2019

swamps attract muskrats, beavers, and river otters.

For Native People, this part of the river offered fresh water to drink; fish to catch; waterfowl, fur bearers, and edible plants in the marshes; and woodlands to hunt deer and turkeys.

For Late Woodland people, 500 years before Captain John Smith and his crew came up the Patuxent in the summer of 1608, the river also offered fertile riverside soils for raising corn, beans, and squash. The high banks on the outsides of the channel’s deep meandering turns provided lookout points to watch who was going up and down the river. It is no accident that Captain Smith mapped a dozen Indian towns in this section of the river.

One of my favorite on-the-water exploration and observation activities is “The Homeplace Game” of figuring out where the villages were located. This requires us to put aside our smart phones and think about what we would have needed to live along the river—fresh water for cooking, landings for canoes, woodlands for hunting, good farming soil, fishing holes, and healthy, diverse marshes. It’s not difficult to see how valuable the river was to the Native Americans.

Mattaponi Creek, the map dissolves into a perfunctory scribble that probably indicates general information the Quactataugh people provided.

The map Smith published on his return to England changed the Chesapeake forever. After settling the Maryland colony in 1634, the English spread up the rivers and displaced the native people. They found the soils well-suited to growing tobacco and vegetables. Over the seventeenth century, the colonists settled along the Patuxent and shipped tobacco to England from farm wharves.

Late in that century, the Crown established towns “for improvement of trade.” Two were Nottingham, a couple of miles downriver from Mattapanient on the west (Prince George’s County) bank

and Lower Marlboro, on the east (Calvert County) bank. Both lie on meanders, at the former sites of Wasemeus and Tauskus. From the river, it’s easy to imagine these quiet riverside villages and their busy 18th century wharves, warehouses, and taverns.

Nottingham’s rolling road is still there, worn three feet below the level of the surrounding land and shaded by very old trees. Now paved, it was the dirt lane down which farmers drove oxen pulling tobacco casks.

The Captain John Smith National Historic Trail and a free boater’s guide, virtual tours, and smartphone app, published by the Chesapeake Conservancy (chesapeakeconservancy. org) contains detailed

AT RIGHT: John Smith's map changed the Chesapeake forever.

John Smith, the Pawtuxunt People, and Tobacco Smith and his crew spent only a couple of days in the Patuxent. They visited the Pawtuxunt chief in his king’s house at the head of today’s Battle Creek, then came up as far as the mouth of Mattaponi Creek and mapped the last village as Quactataugh on the bluff at the mouth of Lyons Creek, which is now the county line between Anne Arundel and Calvert. On the Prince George’s side, he mapped Mattapanient on high land at the base of a huge marsh between Mattaponi Creek on its upriver side and Deep Turn on its downriver corner. Today, it’s the Merkle Wildlife Management Area. Above

The meandering Patuxent River

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itineraries for paddling Mattaponi Creek from the Patuxent River Park’s Selby’s Landing and exploring down to Nottingham by outboard skiff.

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In 1814, the British Navy sent a flotilla up the Patuxent to attack Washington.

The troops landed on the west shore at Benedict and marched upriver, stopping overnight at Nottingham. The American defense was the Patuxent Flotilla, eighteen shallow-draft barges of 40-feet or so with sails, banks of oars, and bow-mounted cannons.

Commander Joshua Barney, a hero of the Revolution, came out of retirement to harry them. He spent the summer dogging the British in their progress upriver. The Brits drove him to Nottingham where he established headquarters for a short time, and then up to Pig Point, above the Route 4 bridge, where he scuttled the barges to prevent the enemy from going further.

Underwater archaeologists tell us that one of the barges lies beneath a piling of the bridge.

The river has changed course, but Pig Point is readily accessible by skiff or kayak. In 1814, the main channel turned into the creek today named Back Channel, with a broad meandering marsh to the east. The channel now runs around the east side of the marsh, though Back Channel and is open for a half-a-mile or so. It’s full of underwater grass, a good place to fish. On your visit, just visualize Barney’s fleet aflame at Pig Point. This is right where everything happened.

Steamboats, Farms, and a Railroad After the war, the Patuxent corridor settled back into farming and fishing the springtime spawning runs of American shad, river herring, and rockfish, and the river was the highway for another

century. Steamboats made regular runs for passengers and freight from Light Street in Baltimore to wharves as far up as Bristol, just below Route 4, while schooners and bugeyes hauled produce up the Bay. The Civil War and the Industrial Revolution bypassed this part of the Patuxent.

What didn’t bypass the river was intensive tobacco culture and poor soil conservation practices in its upper watershed. By the turn of the twentieth century, the river was shoaling badly at Bristol. Attempts to dredge the channel were unsuccessful and the steamboat companies abandoned the landing, though they continued to use the Lyons Creek wharf.

A Remarkable Green Corridor At the turn of the century, Washington businesspeople built a railroad east to the Bayshore at Chesapeake Beach to carry vacationers and commercial traffic. It crossed the Patuxent between Bristol and Jug Bay on a turnstile bridge and a tall dike across the marsh on the Anne Arundel side. The railroad and Southern Maryland’s growing network of roadways gradually replaced the Patuxent’s commercial traffic, turning Nottingham and Bristol into sleepy backwater communities. Commercial fishing and waterfowl hunting continued, though increasing siltation and sewage pollution from the river’s headwaters in the busy BaltimoreWashington Corridor damaged water quality and wildlife habitat through the 1940s, ‘50s, and ‘60s.

The late 1960s brought a new era for the upper Patuxent. The Maryland National Capital Park and Planning Commission bought land along the river to establish a linear park. Anne Arundel and Calvert Counties joined the effort with the Jug Bay Wetlands Sanctuary and King’s Landing County Park. In 2004, Fred Tutman became the

6 Maryland & DC Locations Patuxent’s Riverkeeper. Working from headquarters in Nottingham, he and his team have been powerful advocates for restoring and protecting the river.

Today and every day, the Patuxent offers an extraordinary green corridor with a half-millennium of history. Add this to your Chesapeake bucket list.

MEMORIES THAT LAST A LIFETIME CBM Editor at Large John Page Williams is a fishing guide, educator, author, and naturalist, saving the Bay since 1973. In 2013, at the urging of CBM's current editor-in-chief, the state of Maryland proclaimed Williams to be an Admiral of the Bay.

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RESOURCES The Patuxent River Water Trail Guide—a detailed map and guide, from the Patuxent Riverkeeper, patuxentwatertrail.org Tidewater Time Capsule: History Beneath the Patuxent

by Donald G. Shomette Exploring the Chesapeake in Small Boats

by John Page Williams Captain John Smith National Historic Trail—chesapeakeconservancy.org John Smith’s Chesapeake Voyages

by Helen Rountree, Wayne Clark, and Kent Mountford Chesapeake: Exploring the Water Trail of Captain John Smith

by John Page Williams Star-Spangled Banner National Historic Trail—nps.gov The War of 1812 in the Chesapeake

by Ralph E. Eshelman Terror on the Chesapeake: The War of 1812 on the Bay

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on boats

Regulator 26XO High-end Carolina builder brings forth a unique solution to the Chesapeake Bay conditions.

by John Page Williams

T

COURTESY PHOTOS

here are plenty of 23- to 41-foot Regulators running on the Chesapeake, thanks to the brand’s excellent Lou Codega designs, the meticulous construction and production processes that Joan and Owen Maxwell have built into Regulator Marine, and the solid sales and service capabilities offered

by Virginia- and Maryland-based Bluewater Marine. That said, there are some places in our Bay where those supremely seaworthy deep-V “offshore life” hulls out of their element—such

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as the skinny marsh guts of Tangier Sound and the grass flats of Mobjack Bay. But now there is a Regulator for those places too, and it suits virtually everywhere in the Chesapeake and its tidal rivers. Meet the company’s new 26XO (XO stands for “crossover”), a go-almost-anywhere, doeverything boat. Lou Codega designed it, of course, but this hull has a shallower deadrise (17 degrees) than its 24-degree sisters and a broad, nine-foot, three-inch beam, which make

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And every 52’ is hand-finished to the most exacting standards with only the best materials. For more information, call us at 866-4KROGEN, or visit us at krogenexpress.com.

Cruising without Compromise

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u Check out the 26XO at the Bluewater Yacht Sales location at the United States Power Boat Show—Dock A.

Regulator 26XO it steady as a rock for casting from its bow and stern casting platforms or slipping from the stern swim platform to ride a tube. With its standard Yamaha F300 tilted up, the hull draws only 14 inches—not quite flats-skiff-shallow, but enough for working the Susquehanna and Fisherman’s Island flats with this model’s optional 36-volt, bow-mount Minn Kota Ulterra Riptide electric trolling motor. She could even search for largemouth bass around the Upper Bay grass beds or the cypress trees along Virginia’s lovely Chickahominy River. There’s plenty of storage for gear, including horizontal and vertical rod racks and holders.

Codega designed a pocket under the transom to provide a solid stream of water to the prop, even with its standard hydraulic jackplate raised a full four inches. We experienced how that pocket and jackplate work together in the mouth of the Chowan River at Edenton with Codega at the helm and the company’s senior director/engineering, David Clubbs, aboard. This boat is quite at home in shallow water.

But true to its brand, the 26XO can also handle rough water just fine—especially the kind of short, choppy seas that frequently appear out of the south on hot afternoons. We tested that capability on a fishing trip at the mouth of Eastern Bay in June, where a fresh 12- to 15-knot breeze bucked a strong ebb current. With six of us aboard, four working

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jigs, it was easy to keep out of each other’s way, while the Minn Kota held us over schooling rockfish that we could see on the standard 16-inch Garmin GPSMAP 8616 XSV chartplotter/ sounder. With Regulator’s customer service chief, Al Partin, at the helm, the 26XO was comfortable and dry running into or with the seas at about 26 knots.

That speed is right in the middle of the boat’s sweet range of 4,000 to 4,500 rpm. Top speed with five batteries (for the trolling motor and other systems) and three people aboard on the Chowan River was 38 knots at 5,700 rpm.

Codega sweats the details in every hull he designs, to get the right blend of shapes: transition in deadrise going forward from 17-degree transom to sharp bow entry; lifting strake width, length, and position (the 26XO has two running along each side of its bottom); and chine width. Hull strength, power (the F300 is the only engine available), and weight distribution are all part of his performance mix. The heft of Regulator’s stout construction system helps the hull shoulder seas aside.

While the 26XO might not be a good choice to run fifty miles offshore in the Atlantic to the Baltimore Canyon, it’s certainly capable of running safely with relative comfort through October 2019

ABOVE: (L) The stern deck offers flip-up, cushioned seating and excellent access to boat systems beneath the center seat.

(R) With abundant storage and seating, the 26XO could serve extended sunset picnics or even race committee duty.

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any nasty sea conditions within reason that the open Chesapeake might present, whether around the pilings of the Bay Bridge, off the mouth of the Potomac, or at the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel.

A word about that sophisticated construction: We were able to witness the process on the Edenton visit. A key point is the precision with which Regulator’s lamination crews lay up each hull in its carefully prepared mold; dry-fit an engineered stringer grid to ensure a close fit; set the grid in with sophisticated adhesive to cure; fill any voids with closed-cell foam; then add a liner and deck cap, while the hull remains in the mold to keep it true to the design. Add precise installation of wiring, plumbing, and mechanical components, followed by meticulous quality control, and the result is an

heirloom-quality boat with lovely lines.

Besides fishing and tubing, what other uses might a water-loving family put this crossover Regulator to around the Chesapeake? First off, it offers a lot of seating. With cushions in place, the bow’s port and starboard forward seats have flip-up backs that turn them into lounges. There’s comfort and room for two on the cushions forward of the console and again at the helm.

The stern deck offers flip-up, cushioned seating for three or four and excellent access to boat systems beneath the center seat. The hardtop provides secure handholds for folks who stand, while its wraparound safety glass windshield protects from wind and spray. With abundant storage space for food and fluids and a head available in a bright, ventilated, stand-up space under the console, the

26XO could serve extended sunset picnics or even race committee duty.

An adventurous couple might even cruise the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail in it, stopping each night at inns and B&Bs in our Bay’s river towns.

Imagine.

Base price for Regulator’s versatile 26XO is $134,995. Figure about $15,000 more for useful options like the bow-mount electric motor with batteries and onboard charger, a T-top rocket launcher, a watersports tow-bar, and a head with holding tank and electric pump-out in the console.

CBM Editor at Large and author John Page Williams is an educator and Maryland fishing guide. In 2013, the State of Maryland proclaimed him an Admiral of the Bay.

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The Annapolis Sailing School campus, on Back Creek.

T

he best stories always start with the most memorable characters. And so it is with the Annapolis Sailing School, which celebrated its 60th anniversary in July.

The story of the school with its signature “The Annapolis Way” tagline, and the incredible effect it has had on the sailing industry, begins with Jerry Wood (1924-2003), a uniquely memorable visionary.

As Wood told it, the idea to start the Annapolis Sailing School came to him in the mid-1950s when a tourist asked him where he and his friends could rent a sailboat for the afternoon. Wood had recently closed down his Eastportbased toy business. He also owned a Tornado catamaran and a Raven dinghy, both plywood, and neither were ideal boats for beginners. Undeterred, Wood struck up a conversation and convinced the tourists to rent one of his

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boats for the afternoon. When the same thing happened the next weekend, Wood had a good idea.

He bought a fleet of used, 17-foot, Mustang sailboats and opened a boat rental business at the foot of Sixth Street in Eastport. Not so shockingly, Annapolis was a better market for sailboats than toys. But there was still one problem: “He had boats to rent, but people didn’t know how to sail them,” says John Cosby, who is today the general manager of the school. Wood’s clients were excited to get out on the water, but they didn’t know enough to keep themselves out of it. Thus, Annapolis Boat Rentals became the Annapolis Sailing School.

“When Jerry started the school in ’59, there were no adult sailing schools in the United States, outside of yacht

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CLOCKWIS E FROM TOP LEFT: Early days of the Annapolis Way; The original home of the Annapolis Sailing School, in Eastport; Aerial view of the school on Back Creek; Rigging the school’s purpose-built Rainbows

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clubs,” says Rick Franke, general manager emeritus of the School. “Annapolis was the first recreational sailing program of its kind.”

The school existed to educate new sailors and get everyone comfortable on the water. But with a former toy maker at the helm, its core mission was bound to be unique.

“Most sailing programs were aimed at racing sailboats,” recalls Franke. “Ours was always recreational sailing—sailing is fun.

We minimized classroom time and emphasized time on the water.” The “seriously fun” factor was the difference, and it quickly caught on.

“We weren’t lecturers,” says Cosby of his days as an

“The Rainbow was a commissioned design from Sparkman and Stephens, the first boat of its type to be designed specifically as a training boat,” says Franke of the 24-foot sailboat introduced to the Chesapeake Bay in 1962. The renowned Olin Stephens himself attended the boat’s launch. But, despite the prestige of its architect, it was not quite right for Woods’ intentions.

“They were originally built with an 800-pound keel,” says Cosby.

“And they were tippy. Sometimes beginners would become very trepidatious and wouldn’t like it when the boat heeled over.”

instructor. Hired in 1977, after his junior year of high school, he made a whopping $18 a day at the school. “In the early days, students would take class over on Sixth Street, then they’d break out and jump in cars and come across the creek to get into boats as fast as they could.”

While the classroom lessons were taken seriously, the sailing was meant to be fun and relaxing. But the sailboats Wood used for training purposes weren’t so relaxing.

“They were using Mustangs,” says Cosby, “which are too tippy, and weren’t purpose-built.” With nothing available on the market for Wood’s purposes, he decided to build his own.

ABOVE: The 1973 United Most importantly, Wood did not States Sailboat Show. like it when the boat tipped.

“He approached Sparkman and Stephens and said, ‘I need you guys to build me a boat that three drunks can take out in a thunderstorm and come back safely,’” says Cosby.

Franke laughs. “Yeah, Jerry told everybody that story.”

Stephens added 300 pounds to the keel to make the boats more stable, and the boom was raised to give students more headroom. With that, Wood had a more comfortable boat for his clients and a safe boat to carry his friends home.

I need you guys to

build me a boat that

three drunks can take out in a thunderstorm and come back safely.

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annapolis way The Sailing School’s Beginner’s Course was the basis of the school, and its most popular. A two-day program had students in the classroom for an hour each morning before getting into boats for two hours. A quick lunch break on land brought them back to the dock and kept them there long enough for another hour of sailing theory before launching them back into the water for more practice.

“There are some concepts that are easier to get across to folks in front of a blackboard with a piece of chalk,” Franke says, but on-the-water experience was still the priority.

As the popularity of the school grew, so did their list of offerings. The most popular became the weeklong sailing programs up and down the Chesapeake, using the Chesapeake 25, a modified Rainbow 24 made optimal for overnight cruising. Flotillas of as many as 20 boats would cruise the Bay with students and instructors onboard, learning the “Annapolis Way” of sailing and fun.

While the idea of a weeklong sailboat charter with nights at the Crab Claw was appealing, the biggest benefit of the Annapolis Sailing School’s program was its design. The Rainbows were crewed by three sailors to each instructor, which meant that everyone had a job and learned through participation, not observation.

“You’re either on the jib sheet or you’re steering the boat,” Cosby says. “Never sitting on your hands.”

Behind the scenes, Wood wasn’t sitting on his hands, either.

At the time, a slate of winter boat shows was the industry standard for taking deposits and planning production for the coming year. “Jerry hated winter boat shows,” says Franke.

“They were all indoors, and he hated having to climb a ladder to see a boat.”

Over drinks one night, Wood and local yacht broker Jerry Newark hatched a plan to host an in-water sailboat show, the first of its kind.

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The idea was revolutionary and brilliant—They would fill the Annapolis City Dock with all the sailboats they could find, which would allow Wood’s students to buy boats. Wood and Newark brought in trade-show producer Peter Carroll as a third partner. Newark had contacts with the boatbuilders and sailboat designers. And Wood had the staff and floating docks to make the show happen. They chose Columbus Day weekend for the event, since the season was the Chesapeake’s most lovely and shoppers would have a long weekend to attend the show.

Despite all of excitement, the sailing industry was slow to fall in love with the idea.

“Everybody was used to getting their orders in the winter,” says Franke. “An October show meant that builders had to go into production earlier to meet the demand.”

And, demand there was. In October 1970, the first ever Annapolis Sailboat Show premiered with 51 boats. A crowd of 62,000 came through the gates; higher than anyone’s expectations.

“That first show was crazy, but it worked,” says Franke, who was a senior instructor at the school and later ended up involved in much of the show’s planning and construction. The shows worked because the sailing school worked. In 1972, they launched the first in-the-water power boat show to follow the success of the sailboat show.

Every fall, as the sailing season was winding down, the school operation transformed into a working marina, swelling with scores of temporary employees to prepare and position the floating docks, electrical cabling, and the tents to be transported by boat to City Dock.

“He was a Renaissance man,” says David Cypher, president of the Cypher Advertising Agency and a longtime school employee. “He had a manufacturing facility in South County

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to build the Rainbows as well as the large floating docks for the shows. He even had his own printing presses that printed all the brochures and direct mail pieces.”

Wood stayed busy with the boat shows up until his passing in 2003. His wife and steadfast business partner, Kathy, followed him two years later.

The legacy they left behind included not only the sailing school and the boat shows, but also many significant relationships. Cypher and Cosby met their wives while working at the school. Cosby’s wife, Hilary, had worked at the school over summer vacations along with five of her seven siblings. One of those siblings, Jenny, had moved to New York to raise her family, but had always stayed connected to the school because her childhood home was directly next to the Annapolis property.

“Because we own that property, we got a letter from the school’s owner saying that the school was going to expand into something more,” says Cosby, speaking of Tim Dowling, the school’s second owner, and his plans to expand the marina and create a space for more events. “Rather than that, Jenny and her husband, Rick [Nelson], approached me about possibly buying the school to keep it as it was.”

The school and the boat shows are now separate entities, but the school remains focused on creating as many sailors as possible each year. In 2014, Jenny and Rick Nelson purchased it, bringing in Cosby as general manager and to maintain the fleet of 22 Rainbows. “That says a lot about their passion,” says Brenda Reed, the School’s business manager. “To be here as a teenager, then to do things in your life and come back and be as passionate about it as you were when you were young—that says a lot about both the people and the school.”

Duffy Perkins is a freelance writer and sailor who lives in Annapolis.

24/7 Chesapeake Bay News

T

he band on Sally Lechner’s floppy, broadbrimmed hat has sweated through. Her twin neckerchiefs barely absorb the effects of an afternoon in the mid-90s. But as she wipes her eyeglasses, the Edgewater resident looks as happy as a clam at high tide. “Look, look at what we’re standing on,” she says of the catwalk where researchers perch as they measure the height and width of the spiky sedge plants that nearly engulf them. “You could walk to Timbuktu on these!”

She’s here with a handful of other volunteer citizen-scientists to help researchers conduct the Smithsonian Environmental Research Center’s annual marsh grass survey. When Lechner’s scientist-supervisor told the first-time census taker what she’d be doing and why, she says, “I was so excited I asked if I could give her a hug.”

Not every volunteer is as gung-ho as Lechner, but they’re all invaluable additions to SERC’s 115-member scientific staff, which simply has so much work (40 to 50 grant-funded research projects on average) under the purview of 19 different laboratories, that there aren’t enough hands for the tasks. Add to that SERC’s participation in environmental data-sharing and you’ve got ample opportunities for the public to measure marsh grass, monitor tree growth, dig for archaeological artifacts, tag fish, look for invasive species, or examine soil samples in the lab.

It’s late July, and the grasses are at their tallest and greenest. Spring was rainy. Summer brought abundant heat and sunshine. The plants rise to near shoulder height on either side of the narrow, zigzagging boardwalk at the Global Change Research Wetland (known as “GCREW”), an 86-acre experiment where scientists study the effects of global climate change on tidal wetlands, the planet’s best natural buffer against storm surge due to rising sea levels.

As research here has proven, wetlands trap carbon dioxide, storing it in soils. Some plants thrive on it, growing and gaining soil elevation as fast or faster than the water rising at their roots.

Since 1987, GCREW researchers have simulated next-century environmental conditions—first exposing marsh grasses to higher levels of carbon

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The Global Change Research Wetland, where scientists study the effects of climate change on wetlands.

URGENT SCIENCE Citizen science, education, and crucial research come together along the Rhode River at the Smithsonian Environmental Research Center.

QUINN BURKHART

BY MARTY LEGRAND

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dioxide and then increased nitrogen and, more recently, artificially overheating them to measure species response and forecast the marsh’s overall adaptability. It’s the world’s longest-running field experiment on elevated carbon dioxide. And it couldn’t be done without the 50 or so citizen scientists who volunteer every summer to kneel, squat, measure precisely, and perspire heavily in the service of scientific inquiry.

“We couldn’t begin to do the scope of the work we’re doing without them,” SERC’s director, Anson “Tuck” Hines, says of the facility’s approximately 600 citizen scientists.

“It’s tens of thousands of hours of assistance that’s very valuable to us. But it’s also great experience for those people because they’re doing real science research driven by the scientists themselves.”

SERC’s wide-ranging research presents citizens with a buffet of inquiries from which to choose: global change, invasive species, biodiversity, food webs, land use, water and soil pollution. “We’re really focused on understanding connected coastal ecosystems, both on the terrestrial side of things and the marine/estuarine side of things,” says Hines, whose specialty is blue crabs.

Pro-am science isn’t a new concept. Alison Cawood, SERC’s coordinator for citizen science for the past five

years, says scientists were advertising for volunteer research help as early as the 1840s. Recently, it’s become a recognized discipline. The Citizen Science Association, founded in 2012, devotes itself to advancing research both in the field, through grassroots projects, and virtually, via online data sourcing.

Cawood consolidated SERC’s previously ad hoc program into an institution-wide, quasi Jobs Corps/ AmeriCorps for coastal ecosystems. She pairs skill-seeking and community-minded volunteers with archaeologists, biogeochemists, environmental engineers, photobiologists, quantitative ecologists, invertebrate zoologists and other specialists.

“All but one of the labs here actively engage citizen scientists, and that lab still uses citizen science-collected data,” Cawood says. “[Scientists] get help doing things that just aren’t practical to do with your lab staff. They also get the opportunity to talk about their work with people who are really interested in it.”

At first, she says, she doubted whether the more arduous, less glamorous projects would attract any takers.

“Seriously, is somebody going to come do that? But they show up and they have fun and they come back and they do it again.”

SERC

Soil scientist Pat Megonigal sits inside the Global Change Research Wetland, where scientists are running futuristic climate experiments to simulate the world of 2100.

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NICOLE CAMPBELL

Java Dairy Farm circa 1935 and (below) workers on the farm in 1939.

A GLOBAL NETWORK No one knows why Robert Lee Forrest bequeathed his nearly 400-acre Anne Arundel County dairy farm and more than $1 million to the Smithsonian Institution. The gift was unexpected, the giver inscrutable.

When Forrest wasn’t speculating in real estate or running his dairy farm, he reportedly dabbled in oceanography. Land made him a millionaire, but oceans evidently captured his imagination. In addition to his generous bequest to the Smithsonian, his will contained another provision: he asked to be buried at sea.

No doubt the real estate investor and layman scientist would like what Java Farm has become a half a century later: a world-renowned environmental research facility where scientists, aided by amateurs much like himself, collaborate to better understand and perhaps save the world’s fragile coastal zones.

Were he still around, Forrest, who died in 1962, might even have been one of the volunteers gathered this day in a large, brackish marsh off the Rhode River near his former farm.

The Rhode River property’s diverse habitat made it a natural for environmental studies, but the man-made features at Java Farm (so named by a 19th-century October 2019

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COURTESY OF NORMA NELSON

SERC Farmland.

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plantation owner) were less endearing. Amidst 368 acres of overgrown fields and river shoreline, long-abandoned farm buildings had devolved into derelict housing for wild critters.

Some at the Smithsonian wanted to sell Robert Forrest’s surprise bequest, which also included the bachelor’s fortune in real estate holdings, Treasury bills and Borden dairy company stock. But the Smithsonian’s incoming secretary, S. Dillon Ripley, resisted the notion. He thought the property—located roughly 30 miles east of the Smithsonian’s Museum of Natural History—had potential.

In 1965, the Smithsonian established the Chesapeake Bay Center for Field Biology (SERC’s original name) as a field collection site. Eventually, biologists moved in, converting the least-dilapidated structures into working spaces and a dormitory.

When Hines came to SERC from California 40 years ago, the staff consisted of “five or six ecologists,” he recalls. His office and lab were in the farm’s old milking barn. Today, modern, energy-efficient buildings house offices, labs, and lodging, and the campus has mushroomed through additional land acquisition to 2,650 contiguous acres where cutting-edge collaborative research is conducted on a global scale, including sites as remote as Belize, the Galapagos Islands, and Panama.

SERC’s Forest Ecology Lab, for instance, participates in two international research efforts: the Smithsonian’s Forest Global Earth Observatory network, which monitors forest dynamics in sites worldwide, and the National Science Foundation’s National Ecological Observatory Network (NEON), a standardized platform for gathering long-term environmental data.

JIM CARLTON

Scientists did some of their invasive species surveys in this bay on Santa Cruz Island, one of the major islands of the Galápagos, hanging plates underwater for several months to see what species would colonize them.

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PREPARING FOR CHANGE “Early on, the notions of climate change—global change—were not prevalent in the scientific community, but there was a lot of interest in trying to understand how we could more wisely manage the environment,” Hines says. “Now our funding is focused on climate change— much of it.”

The research is apolitical, but Cawood says she noticed an increase in volunteerism when partisan tides turned. “After the 2016 election we had a huge pulse of people who really wanted to get involved and get engaged with things,” she says. These days she regularly emails information on volunteer projects to about 1,000 people and relies on 150 or so diehards to tackle almost any task that’s offered. With nearly 20 laboratories involved, it’s quite a mix.

Marine invasive species comprise SERC’s largest research program. Greg Ruiz, who heads the Marine Invasions Lab, began his SERC tenure surveying Chesapeake Bay’s invertebrates, determining which species were native and which weren’t. The lab expanded its surveys to identify invasions on both the East and West Coasts. Researchers had three important questions: Who were these non-natives? Where did they come from? How did they get here?

“We know now, thirty years later, that ships are the major driver for invasions in North America,” Ruiz says.

Commercial vessels—and to a lesser extent recreational boats—unknowingly transport invasive species like zebra mussels and Chinese mitten crabs on their hulls, in ballast water, and in cargo. The organisms—nearly 500 different species in the coastal United States—can wreak havoc on local ecosystems.

SERC partners with the U.S. Coast Guard to maintain the National Ballast Information Clearinghouse. Ships arriving at every major U.S. port must report their movements, ballast water management plans, and tank discharges to the database, enabling scientists to study long-term invasion patterns and advise policymakers.

“More and more ships are treating their ballast, but it also shows us that more and more water is coming in because the trade dynamics have changed,” Ruiz says.

In Chesapeake Bay, for example, container ships are exporting more oil and liquefied natural gas than previously. When the vessels have delivered their cargo and return, they can import foreign organisms in ballast water, including species previously unknown to scientists.

One especially pernicious Chesapeake invader, a parasitic barnacle nicknamed Loxo, commandeers the

reproductive system of native white-fingered mud crabs, sterilizing the host crabs in order to spread its own spawn.

(Loxo is thought to have hitchhiked on oysters shipped here from the Gulf of Mexico.) Volunteers assist SERC researchers by collecting tiny mud crabs in the field or examining them microscopically in the lab to detect Loxo’s presence.

Humans have fished in Chesapeake Bay since Native Americans built weirs in the tributaries and Captain John Smith’s men, lacking nets, wielded frying pans to corral “fish, lying so thicke with their heads above the water.”

(The natives’ method proved infinitely more effective than the colonists’.) SERC’s Fish and Invertebrate Ecology Lab studies the life cycles of fish, shellfish, crustaceans and smaller creatures and how they’re impacted by fishing and other human activities.

“One problem with coastal ecosystems is changing biodiversity, both the loss of or a greatly reduced abundance of species,” Hines says—oysters being the prime example of a depleted natural resource in the Chesapeake. “Some we’ve managed to recover: blue crabs are sort of holding their own for now; striped bass are sort of holding their own for now. Some are [in the process of] recovering, like river herring and shad.”

Matt Ogburn, one of the lab’s senior scientists, is monitoring oyster reef habitat and river herring recovery in the watershed. Using an advanced form of sonar, scientists are now able to obtain more detailed underwater video imagery than previously possible in the Bay’s murky waters. They’ve used the technology to estimate the population of river herring (alewife and blueback herring) during the fishes’ Bay tributary spawning runs, and to compare the habitat value of restored and unrestored oyster reefs in the Choptank River.

Ogburn likens the sonar device to a high-tech fishfinder. “It allows you to record in both clear and turbid water, day and night,” he says. The footage is then analyzed in the lab—work often performed by citizen scientists—to obtain abundance and size distribution.

By comparing the number of fish and crabs found on restored and natural reefs—along with sanctuary reefs and reefs where oystering is permitted—researchers can evaluate the effectiveness of restoration strategies and harvest regulations on the reefs’ habitat quality. “We think it can be an efficient way to monitor either the large-scale [restoration] sites like the ones NOAA has done, or harvest areas, or small-scale restorations that often don’t get much monitoring,” Ogburn says.

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ONE BIG SANDBOX At the riverside Reed Education Center, program coordinator Karen McDonald supervises a sort of SERC in miniature. Schoolchildren visit on field trips to learn about shorelines, the Chesapeake Bay, and the creatures that inhabit them. Adult groups are welcomed, too—McDonald likes to say the center serves “K to gray”—but kids are the primary guests. Nearly 6,000 visited last year, getting hands-on immersion in Bay-based science.

“Everything is geared to mirror what our scientists do,” McDonald says. Where the Fish Ecology Lab performs DNA sequencing to identify the contents of piscine digestive tracts, the kids get to “necropsy” stuffed toy sharks, unfastening their bellies to see what’s inside.

(McDonald’s mom sews stomach pouches into toy sharks and rays.) Like SERC’s marine biologists, junior scientists don waders to seine the Rhode’s shallow shoreline, separating their catch into basic critter groups: swimmers, hoppers, crawlers, and floaters.

McDonald brainstorms a changing array of imaginative activities—“my super power,” she says—that mimic research techniques, like having kids suture

bananas to understand how scientists tag sharks. The education programs are so popular they’re booked almost a year in advance and McDonald calls on about 50 volunteers to help with instructional and behind-thescenes work.

Forecasting the impacts of sea level rise. Anticipating invasive species patterns. Teaching the next generation of marine biologists. SERC science tends to be forwardlooking.

Jim Gibb’s Environmental Archaeology Lab focuses in the opposite direction. The lab, which has no budget, relies on professionals who donate their time and a coterie of citizen archaeologists to sift through centuries of history at two former tobacco plantations on SERC’s Edgewater campus. “For us it’s like one big sandbox,” Gibb says.

“We’re looking at how human interaction changed the environment.”

“Dig days” are traditionally held every Wednesday and one Saturday a month from April through October. No experience is necessary. At a recent summer dig, 14 amateur archaeologists showed up to excavate a domestic trash pit (called a midden) near the Sellman House whose origins date to 1735. The midden was likely begun in the 19th century, Gibb says.

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Maryland native and award-winning contributor Marty LeGrand writes about nature, the environment, and Chesapeake history.

MORE INFORMATION The SERC campus is located at 647 Contees Wharf Road in Edgewater. For information on citizen science projects visit serc.si.edu/citizenscience/projects or contact Alison Cawood, cawooda@si.edu, 443-482-2271.

SAM BENSON

This day, Under the direction of Gibb and George F. Riseling Jr. (like Gibb, a private archaeology consultant), a few volunteers carefully remove layers from the excavation site. Stationed at large, elevated sieves, other volunteers sort through bucket loads of exhumed soil, picking out animal bones, bits of porcelain, oyster shells, coal fragments and other clues to what past residents ate and how they lived. One of the “sifters” is Sally Lechner, the uber-enthusiastic volunteer from the marsh grass survey. She’s no less excited about amateur archaeology. Lechner says she attended a SERC lecture and was so smitten with the campus’s natural setting that she returns again and again for citizen science projects.

Cawood says one dig-day participant, a young woman, so enjoyed herself that she went on to earn her masters in archaeology and now makes it her profession. “She just showed up because she wanted to do something … and her mom wanted her out of the house.” h

There’s something for

EVERYONE

Fairlee Creek ● N 39° 15.917, W 076° 12.283 ● Chestertown, MD ● mearsgreatoaklanding.com October 2019

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DEADRISE CONNECTION The Rebirth of Miss Sandy B

M

iss Sandy B is more than an old workboat, or even a piece of Chesapeake Bay history. She is the wooden embodiment of a deep connection between a son and the father he never knew.

Ross Hubbard felt drawn to boats for as long as he can remember.

He drew them and daydreamed about them, imagining himself at the tiller or the wheel, carving a trail of foam through the blue. As an adult, he moved from Maryland to the Pacific coast, embarking on a thirty-year career working with boats and becoming a marine surveyor. It was what he loved most, and he joked that the water was in his DNA. Adopted at birth, he knew little about his ancestry. It took decades of searching to learn his birth mother’s name, only to find she had passed away. With that door closed, it seemed unlikely he would ever learn the identity of his biological father.

Then, last spring, Hubbard received an unexpected call from a yacht designer who had been commissioned to create a painting of the Pride of Baltimore who asked him to critique the piece, and that night, Hubbard dreamt about Maryland and the Bay for the first time in years.

“The next morning, I got up and had an urge to look at my Ancestry and 23andMe accounts,” he says. “I just felt like something was brewing.”

He was right. A message had been posted just three minutes earlier from a woman named Pam Cusisck, who believed she was his half-sister. Over the course of the day, Hubbard learned that tidewater really did run through his veins because he was the son of Robert

by Ann Eichenmuller

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COURTESY PHOTOS

TOP TO BOTTOM: Robert Miller in front of Miss Sandy B at his Fishing Creek shed; A newly built Miss Sandy B; Miss Sandy B in the 1970s, used as crabbing workboat.

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ROSS HUBBARD

ABOVE: Ross Hubbard and his half-brother, Robert Miller, reunite at the bow of the deadrise their father built.

Miller of Fishing Creek, Hoopers Island—a waterman and a boat builder. The news, while welcome, was bittersweet. Hubbard would have the opportunity to meet four of his half-siblings, but there would be no reunion with the father he longed to find. Robert Miller had also passed away.

The work of a man’s hands lives on, though. Hubbard’s wife Eileen pointed out that while it might be too late for him to meet his father, he could still connect to his past through the boats he built. Hubbard wanted to dream his way to the Bay and start a new kind of charter-boat business, stressing education, environmental tourism, and ecological sustainability. To buy and restore one of his father’s boats for that purpose would be a way to achieve that while also reclaiming a piece of his history, and it would be a project that

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would strengthen ties with his newfound family.

“I wanted it to bring us together and for all of us to be proud that my father’s life meant something. The boat will memorialize that in a living way,” Hubbard explains.

Miller built wooden skiffs for years, and in the 1970s, he began crafting Chesapeake deadrise workboats, mostly between 36 and 39 feet, all built by “rack of eye,” the traditional method of building without drawn plans.

These were the boats Hubbard was looking for. But his father built no more than a half-dozen or so of these larger vessels.

Finding one more than forty years later would not be easy.

“I went onto Facebook to some of the waterman’s groups, but I got sort of a tepid response,” Hubbard laughs.

Andrew Abreu talks with owner Ross Hubbard about the Miss Sandy B restoration plan of attack.

Miss Sandy B at Abreu Boatworks prior to restoration.

Renamed Hercules, Miss Sandy B has since been redocumented to reflect her original name, Miss Sandy B.

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ERIC EICHENMULLER

He asked his half-sisters to put the information out for him. They were “downhomers,” while he was just a marine surveyor from California. He hoped they would generate more of a response. He was right.

Within three hours, Zeb Barlow, a well-known expert on Chesapeake Bay workboats, pointed them in the direction of Hercules, which he believed was built by Robert Miller. It was listed for sale at a marina near Solomon’s Island. Research confirmed Hercules was originally the Miss Sandy B, a 39-footer built in 1972 by Miller and, apparently, the last of his deadrises still in use.

Hubbard called the owner and said he would take the boat regardless of the condition. Then he flew east to take a look.

“She definitely had been worked hard,” he recalls.

The boat was a traditional square-stern deadrise (not a drake tail) strip-planked in cedar and juniper to the waterline chine, and then cross-planked with Douglas fir over oak frames. One of her past owners had fitted her with a “clam-rig,” a hydraulic lift mounted to starboard, and she was twisted and wracked as a result of the extreme load it carried during its use. Beyond this structural issue, the boat showed serious signs of hard use and neglect.

The original 225 horsepower John Deere engine needed to be rebuilt. In addition to the essential repairs, she would need to be reconfigured to serve as a charter boat. The cabin roof would have to be raised to allow for installation of a head and additional stowage.

The working deck, which had been raised, would need to be lowered three inches to add seating. Racks would need to be added for kayaks and paddleboards. Yet Hubbard also wanted to stay true to the original design, and for all of that work, he needed someone who understood that Miss Sandy B was more than a boat—she was his father’s legacy. He found Andrew Abreu.

“I had been following Andrew’s work on Facebook and in magazines,” Hubbard says.

“He lives and breathes this. I called, just crossing my fingers, hoping he’d do it.”

Like Hubbard, boats are in Abreu’s blood, though, if his life had gone according to plan, he wouldn’t be restoring them. In high school he was granted early acceptance to a five-year

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Most of the cabin is removed to allow raising of the roof; The boat is stabilized to allow removal of the damaged skeg; Abreu developed a system of braces using the shed beams to torque the hull back into shape.

master’s program in architecture at Montana State University. It was a great opportunity— except for one thing.

“I learned fast that first semester what I really liked,” he laughs, standing in front of his shed in Trappe, Maryland, “and it wasn’t architecture.”

It was boats.

He left Montana State and applied to The Landing School in Maine, taking a job with a furniture maker while waiting for an opening.

Both experiences helped him to hone his woodworking and shipwright skills with true craftsmen. He opened Abreu Boatworks in Trappe on the Eastern Shore two years ago, and he has received national media attention for his restoration of vessels like Minots Light II, a 41-foot 1960 Aage Nielsen yawl. His is a small and growing business with all the work he can handle, but the tale of Miss Sandy B appealed to his heart.

“There is something about wooden boats,” he says, eyes shining. “You can’t really understand it till a story like Ross’s arises.”

Miss Sandy B was trucked to Abreu’s shed, where he met with Hubbard and developed a plan of attack.

“The most difficult part of a restoration like this is putting yourself in the shoes of the original builder and reverse engineering what

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has been done. It is easy to over-build the rebuild but quite difficult to rebuild a boat responsibly,” Abreu notes.

Work began in June. He started by pulling the engine, which was sent out to Mark Milbourne in Crisfield to be rebuilt. Then the demolition began. Abreu removed the old wooden deck to allow a thorough inspection of the frames, floors, planks, keelson, and keel. He discovered significant damage in the garboard planks and keel after the engine keel cooler was removed. So he cradled the bottom and removed the skeg, cabin, and transom. He then devised a method for repairing the damage caused by the hydraulic rig by using a combination of boat stands and overhead wood supports braced to the ceiling beams as they went, twisting the boat back into shape while further stabilizing the hull for additional work.

Hubbard has flown in regularly, buying a Catalina 27 to keep docked in Cambridge so he can have a place to stay while he watches the boat’s transformation. These trips have given him the chance to get to know his half-sisters Pam and Cindy, who live on the Eastern Shore. His brother Robert, named after their father, has also traveled from Tennessee, bringing with him old photographs and stories about their family. In many respects, the process of Miss Sandy B’s

restoration has become a metaphor for Hubbard’s own experience.

“She is a work in progress, and what we’re doing with the boat parallels what I am doing here, getting back to my roots.”

Miss Sandy B has been taken down to her bare bones—but they are good bones.

Hubbard has been there for much of it, peeling back his past with each new exposed layer.

“Every time we pull a piece off, I think, he put that there. He laid his hands on that,” he says, speaking about his father. “It is emotional stuff.”

The finish date for Miss Sandy B is tentatively set for November. By then, the new bright-finished transom will be installed, as will the taller cabin. A hard top following the camber and contour of the cabin top will extend aft to accommodate solar panels and kayak and paddleboard racks. The rebuilt engine will be in place, as will a new electric motor, a combination Hubbard feels will provide the optimal environmental experience. Clients will be able to power out to remote areas quickly using the diesel engine, then glide in under the power of the electric drive, getting “sort of that ahhh feeling you get on a sailboat once you shut down the engine,” he explains. “For bird

watchers and nature lovers, it offers an opportunity to get close without disturbing as much.”

In addition to customized charters, he hopes to use Miss Sandy B to increase awareness of the issues facing those who live and work along the Chesapeake.

He would like to offer tours to watch waterman harvesting oysters and crabs so that people recognize the challenges they face in bringing seafood to our tables.

He also hopes to draw attention to the plight of tidewater communities as they face erosion, rising sea levels, and sinking land, noting that “these places will be gone in 50-100 years without help.”

But all that is still in the future. Nothing will compare to the first time Ross Hubbard takes his place at the helm of Miss Sandy B as the captain of the boat his father built. It will be the closing of a circle and the fulfillment of a dream.

“I’m so grateful,” he says, running his hand along graceful lines of the bow. “Life put this right in my lap.” h Ann Eichenmuller is a freelance writer and the author of two nautical mystery novels. She lives along Virginia’s Rappahannock River where she and husband Eric sail Avalon, a Morgan Out Island.

October 2019

WHAT’S NEXT?

You can follow the restoration of Hubbard’s deadrise at MissSandyB.com or by visiting the Facebook page of Abreu Boatworks.

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he Annapolis boat shows are flipped this year, with the United States Power Boat Show preceding the United States Sailboat Show October 3-6. The 50th United States Sailboat Show goes off as always over the long Columbus Day weekend—October 10-14.

There’s always so much, almost too much, to see. Here are a few of the boats on our don’tmiss list.

2019

BOSTON WHALER 380 REALM

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Boston Whaler’s 380 Realm is a hybrid of center console functionality and cabin cruiser comfort. The result is a unique layout, featuring extensive bow seating and an airy, well-thought-out cabin. It’s mostly an open boat, but with a full-width windshield protecting a cockpit that transforms into an entertainment area. She comes standard with four Mercury 350 L6 Verado engines to get you there quickly.

Chesapeake Whalertowne—Dock J

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BRIG EAGLE 8

HINCKLEY SPORT BOAT 40X The new 40X is an epoxy-infused carbon fiber and Kevlar boat featuring a C. Ray Hunt Associates high-deadrise, deep-V hull and triple 300-hp Mercury Verado outboards.

Optional power upgrades from Mercury, Yamaha, and Seven Marine promise speeds up to 50 knots. This is Hinckley’s high-end answer for get-up-and-go mariners. Thus, there is very little of the extensive exterior brightwork that Hinckley is famous for. This Hinckley is all about performance and time on the water in lieu of hours of Zen with a can of Epiphanes and a fine badger brush, (not that there’s anything wrong with that.)

BRIG and Scirocco Marine will debut this 26foot luxury rigid inflatable cruiser on the demo-dock, equipped with a duo-prop 350hp Suzuki engine, ready to try out.

We have enjoyed the use of a couple of BRIG 485 (16-foot) Navigators this summer through the Annapolis School of Seamanship’s Junior Captains and Women at the Wheel certification programs, and we are sold on the versatile functionality and fun of the boats for any use—creek exploring, Bay transits, beaching, training, tow-sports, rafting up…’

Scirocco Marine—Dock K3

Hinckley Chesapeake—Dock F2

MJM 53Z The new 53Z may be the largest outboardpowered express cruiser ever, and with four 400-hp Mecury Verados it has the juice to go zero to 20 in seven seconds and reach a top speed of 44 knots. She’s long and lean with a 3.5:1 length-to-beam ratio, but doesn’t skimp on the comforts, with a two-cabin master suite featuring two en suite heads and glass-walled showers. In the handling department, it draws only 35 inches and features the Skyhook autopilot system and joystick piloting for docking and other maneuvers where you’re less worried about “express” and more concerned with “largest.”

North Point Yacht Sales—Dock B

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October 2019

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CUTWATER 24 CW

GRADY-WHITE FREEDOM 285 Grady-White has improved this popular dual-console by adding a sleek hardtop, a larger windshield, improved helm-station ergonomics and an electrically adjustable helm seat. There are more added features and options such as a retractable ski-pole, updated head/changing area, folding cockpit step, wetbar, an electric ShureShade retractable sun cover, rod holders and storage for 15 rods, and so on…

As with all Cutwater boats, the brand-new 24 Center Console Walkaround comes fully equipped and ready to go, including anchoring package, Garmin nav-package, fenders, lines, flares, first-aid kit, life jackets, and a boat hook.

Basically, everything except the peanut butter.

The unique, multipurpose layout allows starboard walkaround passage from the cockpit to the forward lounge area and step-down access to a spacious head (6' 2" headroom) and berth to port. The Yamaha 250 and 116 gallons of fuel will certainly cover the Bay quite well, and quickly. She has lockable rod storage, a fishbox, rigging station, swim-platform, sound system, sinks, coolers, retractable ski pylon, and reclining seats for lounging and entertaining.

Pocket Yacht—Dock F2

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HANSE 675 A queen of the sailboat show this year may be the Hanse 675 (LOA-68' 8"), designed by Judel/ Vrolojk for luxurious global sailing. She sports a distinctly European style with low-profile cabin top, huge walk-through cockpit between twin helms, an enormous saloon to accommodate as many as 10 dinner guests, double staterooms, a fractional rig and self-tacking headsail for easy shorthanded transits, flush hatches (in case you want to play pickleball on deck) and a spacious toygarage aft of the helm area. Imagine yourself pulling into Nantucket, English Harbor, or, of course, Annapolis.

North Point Yacht Sales—Dock B

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BENETEAU FIRST YACHT 53 Just launched in September at the Cannes Yachting Festival and in Newport, the company’s latest offering for the performance/ lux market hits Annapolis as the feature of the Beneteau spread. She’s 56' 3" LOA with a fourfoot headsail/anchor sprit ahead of a plumb bow extending from a resin infused hull and deck underneath a copious 1,800-foot sail plan. With twin rudders and helms, we expect she will have plenty of upwind bite. Judging by the drawings and the Roberto Biscontini design pedigree (America’s Cup-Il Moro di Venezia, Oracle Racing, Luna Rossa, Team New Zealand, Volvo Open 70s…), she ought to scoot.

Annapolis Yacht Sales—Dock F2

Chesapeake Bay boatbuilders hold a special place in our hearts and on the outer (D) dock of the Powerboat Show.

This year, we look forward to catching up with these excellent builders: Weaver Boatworks (Weaver 43), Eastport Yachts (Eastport 32), Mathews Brothers (Patriot 29-3), Chesapeake Boats (31 Redfinn), Judge Yachts (Chesapeake 36), Composite Yacht (26 Bay).

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Meet artists as inspiring as their art

Cindy Fulton

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Fine art is an inspiration, and the 20th annual RiverArts Studio Tour that takes place all around Kent County over two fall weekends provides an opportunity not just to become inspired by art expressed in styles ranging from traditional to avant-garde, expressed in a variety of media that include painting, photography, sculpture, metal work, pottery, fiber, woodcraft, jewelry, furniture, glass, and more, but also to meet more than 60 artists, many of whom are just as inspirational as their work.

While most of the galleries and studios on the tour are based in Chestertown, it pays to explore some of the more remote sites, like Cindy Bowers Fulton’s studio in 30-acres of forest on the banks of Churn Creek near Still Pond. There you’ll see the woods and marshes, water and sky that inspire Cindy’s work in watercolor, acrylic, pastel and epic copper sculpture. “For

by Karen Hubacher

by Betty McClintonck

by Cindy Fulton

me, where I live is what I do in art,” she’ll tell you.

“Visitors get to see the environments in which the artists live here in Kent County,” she explains. “In my case, I show people our post-andbeam house which is filled with art that I like to talk about. Even if they don’t buy, people like to come and visit.

Artists like to talk about their art, they welcome the opportunity to explain their art and from whence it comes.”

Cindy managed the studio tour for 11 years. “The whole idea behind the studio tour was to educate people about different forms of art and what happens in an artist’s mind and in their studio, and how they do things,” she explains. I like to deal directly with the people and give them things at a better price, since I don’t have to share with a gallery.

By the crossroads in the center of the nearby town of Still Pond, you’ll

find the gallery of Doug Sassi, a potter who’s participated in nearly all of the 20 years of the tour. “My studio is in the warehouse of an old country store dating from 1872, and my gallery is across the street in an old doctor’s home where there are oyster shells in the stucco,” he says. “Visitors get a tour of the studio, and I demonstrate at the potter’s wheel, show them the equipment, show them how I make the clay, why I make the things I make, how I come up with the ideas and how I choose the colors.”

Doug makes mostly functional items – mugs, bowls, plates – with distinctive, naturalistic coloring.

“They’re mostly two colors,” he explains. “Imagine a cylinder with one color at the top, one at the bottom, and they overlap in the middle to create a third color. The result is basically a landscape. It comes from looking out the back window in the winter time, October 2019

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and being inspired by the color of the sky and the field after the corn has been cut down.”

Just upriver from Chestertown, at the Heron Point retirement community, you can meet eight of the resident artists who are participating in the tour. Among them is painter Betty McClintock, who is perhaps one of the most inspirational of all.

“I’m rather elderly and I can’t see things very well,” she says. Once an avid painter, Betty’s macular degeneration prevented her from doing what used to give her joy. When she moved to Chestertown from her home in North Carolina two years ago, she hadn’t painted for almost 20 years. But at Heron Point, she discovered that “the art group here is very active. I took a chance and got my art materials out again and it’s been a wonderful experience to start all over again.”

With the encouragement of her new fellow artists, Betty exhibited some of her paintings in a show at the RiverArts Gallery last year and sold one right off the bat. “I can’t paint like I used to do, I can’t do portraits like I used to. But I’m not doing abstract; I’m doing wild flowers, mostly landscapes, water and the moon, all things I see in my head. Most of my works are pretty good sized, because I can’t do many small ones.”

At the age of 97, Betty advises that “You’re never too old to do something new. I’m still pretty healthy. I’ve had a wonderful life and I’m still young as far as I’m concerned; I’m not ready to give up, or anywhere near it. If I were here by myself sitting in a rocking chair, I’d be bored to death. Physically, I can’t

Ceramics by Doug Sassi

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do the things I used to do, but this gives me something to do that I love every morning. I have a purpose in life again. It’s passion for me, it’s made life wonderful for me. I’m here in the studio almost every day.”

Chestertown has been designated by the state of Maryland as an Arts and Entertainment District. “The downtown arts scene has grown by leaps and bounds in the past decade,” says Mayor Chris Cerino. “Chestertown is fast becoming a regional arts destination.”

You can start at the RiverArts Gallery, 315 High Street, Suite 106, where you’ll find an exhibit of works by participating artists to help plan your self-guided tour based upon your own tastes. The Studio Tour runs over two weekends – October 19 - 20, and October 26 - 27. Gallery hours are Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Another long-standing tradition in Kent County this time of year also fills readers of this publication with inspiration: the Sultana Downrigging Weekend from November 1 – 3, when the town’s riverfront becomes entangled in a forest of wooden masts of vessels replicating the tall ships and schooners that have sailed the waters of the Chesapeake Bay down the centuries.

These include the Kalmar Nyckel, a re-creation of the first colonial Swedish settlement ship to arrive in America in the 17th century; the Sultana, a reproduction of a ship used by the British Royal Navy to enforce the notorious tea taxes in the years preceding the American Revolution in the 18th century; the Pride of Baltimore II and Lynx, replicas of 19th-century

clipper ships that confounded the British in the War of 1812; the Virginia, a reproduction of a schooner that ferried Chesapeake Bay pilots in the early 20th century; plus traditional Chesapeake Bay watercraft like the pungy schooner Lady Maryland and the skipjack Sigsbee. All of these vessels will be open for dockside tours and, best of all, boat rides on the Chester River. More traditional wooden boats, all privately owned, will be on display at the docks.

And at this year’s events, those docks are just as much of an attraction as the boats that are tied to them.

This year, Chestertown completed a $6 million renovation of the riverfront park, with new bulkheads, walkways, floating docks, and a 70-foot dock extension that raises the grade by as much as two feet.

The investment alleviates the problem that has plagued the festival for decades: autumnal tidal flooding.

“The waterfront was so bad, it flooded, and that hampered you with what you could do,” explains Drew McMullen, President of the Sultana Education Foundation, which operates the schooner Sultana and manages the festival. “The town raised the bulkhead by a couple of feet, so we’re able to expand the festival, which we couldn’t do before, because we’d be underwater. That makes the festival a lot more accessible. You can tour the ships, listen to some music, and have a great time with the whole family.”

The festival began back in 2001 largely as a lark when the newly launched schooner Sultana and the Pride of Baltimore II paired up for a casual sail on the Chester River the weekend before both vessels “downrigged” for the winter. The combination of a stiff breeze, fall colors at their peak and thousands of waterfowl overhead made it a day few onboard would soon forget.

“We’ll have to do this again next year,” remarked both captains – and thus Sultana Downrigging was born.

Almost two decades later, the event has grown to be one of the

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Sultana Downrigging Weekend, held in Chestertown Nov. 1-3, is the largest Tall Ship gathering on the East Coast.

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largest Tall Ship rendezvous in the country. This year the event showcases the all-new Port of Chestertown Marina and is further enhanced by the addition of a three-day bluegrass festival.

Visitors can expect to see a waterfront packed with ships and wooden boats, performances by the region’s best bluegrass musicians, great food in the festival’s new waterfront village, lectures by nationally recognized authors, activities for children, opportunities to sail on the visiting Tall Ships and the chance to spend the weekend in Chestertown – one of America’s best preserved historic seaports.

If you have a non-wooden boat, you can contact the Chestertown Marina (410-778-3616) to inquire about slip space. There is plenty of room to anchor in the river and a dingy dock is available at the marina.

The Festival Village is an enclosed area at the Chestertown Marina featuring two musical performance stages, multiple food and drink October 2019

vendors, seating, games, and other entertainment. With the exception of Saturday night’s performances at the Garfield Center, all musical performances will take place in the Village. If you aren’t on a Tall Ship, the Festival Village is the place to be for Downrigging.

Fireworks on Saturday, ships are illuminated each night, the Chesapeake Chapter of the Antique and Classic Boat Society and other classic privately owned boats will be on display. For a schedule of events and to purchase tickets for tall ship sails and passes for the Music and Festival Village, see www.downrigging.org.

Here are some more fun events to help you plan your next visit to Kent County. You can stay at one of Kent County’s wonderful bed-andbreakfast inns. Each Saturday morning, you can check out the Chestertown Farmer’s Market, and the other quaint Kent County towns of Rock Hall, Galena, Millington and Betterton.

October First Friday Friday , October 4, 5 - 8 p.m.

Downtown Chestertown - Park Row, High Street, Cross Street, & Cannon Street First Friday is a free event sponsored by Chestertown’s downtown merchants, community organizations, and art galleries along Park Row, High Street, Cross Street, and Cannon Street. This event is held the first Friday of every month and everyone is welcome and encouraged to join in the fun.

Historic House Tour Saturday, October 5, 1 p.m. – 5 p.m.

Location: Bordley History Center Come spend a day in historic Chestertown! The doors to a selection of National Landmark Historic District Homes will be open to you for the 49th Annual Historic House Tour. www.kentcountyhistory.org/ Chestertown Harry Potter Festival October 4 - 5 Location: Downtown - Chestertown Contact: Garfield Center for the Arts Wizards and loyal Harry Potter fans will convene for the fourth consecutive Chestertown Harry Potter Festival. This fun-filled weekend features a wide array of free and ticketed events sure to delight wizards and muggles alike. www.chestertownhpfest.org

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Historic Ghost Walks Saturdays, October 5 - 26, every half hour from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m.

Location: Bordley History Center - 301 High Street Every Saturday in October tours will begin at 6:30 and run every half hour until 8:30. Times are subject to change according to demand and reservations. Ghost Walk guides walk visitors through centuries of stories, told against a background of local history.

Learn some of the odder tales of local lore, including those of murder and mayhem, from the tales of a haunt in the attic where George Washington did sleep, to the Court House Ghost that made international news a few years ago. Reservations recommended at www.kentcountyhistory.org October 2019

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Chestertown’s downtown merchants, community organizations, and art galleries along Park Row, High Street, Cross Street, and Cannon Street. This event is held the first Friday of every month and everyone is welcome and encouraged to join in the fun.

St. Martin’s Ministries Fall Gala Friday, October 11 Rock Hall Dinner, music, silent and live auction. www.stmartinsministries.org Rock Hall FallFest and Oyster Celebration Saturday, October 12, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., rain or shine Rock Hall, Maryland Rock Hall’s free 21st annual FallFest pays homage to the almighty oyster by inviting guests to savor oyster stew, fried oysters and raw oysters shucked by local watermen while enjoying free family fun with music, craft vendors, a totally free “Kids’ Kourt.”

Mamie Minch Trio FallFest Headliner Saturday , October 12, 8 p.m.

The Mainstay - 5753 N. Main Street, Rock Hall Close out Rock Hall FallFest at The Mainstay with Mamie Minch and her Trio Mamie Minch, one of the youngest old-school blues guitarists and singers, sings and plays songs of her own devising that sound like they’ve been stored in her old National guitar for decades. Raised on the music of John Hurt, Rev. Davis and Memphis Minnie, she can sometimes sound like her predecessors, but don’t mistake her for a revivalist- she is most definitely a product of her own time. www.mainstayrockhall.org

Dickens of a Christmas December 6, 7 & 8 Chestertown Historic District Friday: carriage rides, hot beverages, fire pits, s’mores stations and special entertainment. Saturday: carriage rides, costumed street performers, high tea, live music, fire dancers, holiday house tour, authentic British-themed food and drink, children’s games, vendors selling hand-crafted gifts. Sunday: costumes are welcome as participants walk or sprint on an in-town 5K race, which ends with a cup of cheer and an awards ceremony.

Rock Hall Santa Arrives by Boat Saturday, December 7, 6 p.m.

Santa’s boat comes through the Rock Hall jetties at 6 p.m. and then is escorted by firetruck to Main Street, where he takes his place in Santa’s house.

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Fall Fest - Celebrating the Oyster - October 12 Rock Hall Bike Fest - October 13 Kite Extravaganza - October 19 Lighted Boat Parade & Santa’s Arrival - December 7 New Year’s Eve Hat Parade - December 31 Mainstay Concerts www.MainstayRockHall.org Eastern Neck Wildlife Refuge Enjoy year-round viewing of waterfowl and wildlife

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Hendrik Meurkens Quartet Saturday , October 19, 8 p.m.

The Mainstay - 5753 N Main Street, Rock Hall World-renowned harmonica and vibraphone virtuoso Hendrik Meurkens brings his jazz quartet to The Mainstay. www.mainstayrockhall.org

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wild chesapeake

for a weekly Wild Chesapeake outdoor report.

Good Things Come with Small Mouths Wherein we explore the pursuit of a feisty freshwater sunfish.

by Captain Chris D. Dollar

Lee Haile and a stout Susquehanna River smallmouth bass.

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he clogged arteries of the D.C. Capital Beltway never fail to drive me to insanity. Not too far from this spaghetti of snarling traffic, however, sits the prime smallmouth bass waters of the Potomac River and its feeder waterways, which offer exceptional fishing and quiet solitude.

Years ago, near a small town whose name I’ve forgotten, two good friends and I entered a section of the Shenandoah River to begin a three-day float. I was in the business end of a canoe, and my childhood buddy was perched up front while our third angler was alone in a kayak.

When I say perched, what I mean is he was trying to steady himself but looking more like a drunkard dancing on a three-legged stool at last call. I thought age had eroded his balance.

And he spilled tail over teacup into the drink a mere ten minutes into the trip.

POTOMAC SMALLMOUTHS

The Potomac River Smallmouth Club holds monthly meetings and publishes a newsletter full of useful tips. The group also promotes catch-and-release for smallmouth bass as well as champions conservation efforts—prsc.org.

UPPER POTOMAC FISHING RULES: Licenses: Virginia, Maryland and even West Virginia freshwater licenses apply up to and including the opposing banks in the upper Potomac.

Smallmouth catch & release—year round 15” size limit, 4 fish/day, January - April 12 and November through December 31.

12” size limit, 6 fish/day, June 15 - October 31.

October 2019

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KAYLA HAILE

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My kayak friend sidled up to ask with a tinge of concern, “Is your buddy gonna be alright?”

“Hope so,” I replied. “At any rate, he’s wearing a life vest, so at least he’ll be easy to find.” There were several other tales from the trip that are more suitable for another time and place. I recall it as a less dark, PG-rated version of James Dickey’s Deliverance.

Cue the banjo.

Once the wayward angler was safely back in the canoe, we flowed gently downstream while casting to likely spots for smallmouths, or whatever fish would hit a fly. The weight of the world melted away, and the sun’s rays exploded across the purple horizon like radiant apricots. I caught glimpses of frolicking river otters. Siblings, perhaps? Kingfishers abounded.

Herons stalked prey. On a river, there is always something interesting going on. All you have to do is look around.

By some anglers’ standards, our fishing excursion was far from a booming success. We caught about a dozen fish, only four of which were bass, though one was a threepounder.

Here’s the thing: If we only fished to gain the approval of others and to keep score, it’d be a mighty shallow life. I value such adventures far more for the rich memories created than numbers of fish caught.

Writing this piece has spawned pangs of regret for not exploring the upper tributaries of the Chesapeake watershed as much as I should. Too much to experience for one lifetime, perhaps, but I should try. Oh, and if you do hear banjo music, kick up your paddle stroke a few notches.

Don’t Let the Name Fool You Smallmouth bass go by several nicknames—smallies, bronzebacks,

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brownies, and brown bass— depending on what part of the country you come from. I went down a bit of rabbit hole while researching the origin of the smallmouth name. As near I can figure, the prefix refers to the fact that the rear end of the lower jaw doesn’t extend past the eye, whereas the jaw on a largemouth bass does.

While a three-pound fish might not spark much excitement from a jaded Chesapeake saltwater angler, those three pounds pinned to a fish hook, will make up an old fashioned throw down. Ornery and tough, smallmouth bass don’t back down, and they can hit with the ferocity of a Mike Tyson haymaker. They leap and spin as they try to throw the hook. By any angling standard, pound-forpound, smallmouth bass offer a formidable fight.

Susquehanna River, to her father Lee Haile.

“When I was a little girl fishing with my dad in the Susquehanna for stripers, we’d occasionally catch a smallmouth, always a fun fish to catch,” she told me recently. “I’ve really fallen in love with catch-andrelease for smallmouth bass. I still have so much to learn, and that’s what makes it so enjoyable to me.”

She’s learning to “read the river” from Harrisburg all the way south below the Holtwood Dam near Lancaster.

“This entire stretch of river allows for different types of techniques due to how it flows,” she adds. “The river cuts through mountains and rock formations, [providing] breathtaking views. Something about being on the river is relaxing. I leave my worries on the back burner while I’m out there.”

Where to Fish

Paddle Power

When trout streams start to get too warm, fishing for smallies often heats up. They do best in clean, cold rivers where an abundance of insects, baitfish, and crayfish make easy meals.

Popular smallmouth stretches include waters above and below Harper’s Ferry on the Potomac; the North and South Forks of the Shenandoah; the Monocacy, and the tributaries that flow into them. I’ve mentally mapped-out an early fall trip on the Rappahannock, near Fredericksburg, where the Rapidan River drains into the larger river, and, from what I hear, it’s a good spot to find them.

The Bay’s mother river, the Susquehanna, offers exceptional smallmouth angling. Kayla Haile lives in Pennsylvania, where she fishes for smallmouth bass every chance she gets. She says she owes her love for fishing, and especially the

Many anglers use water jet outboards to cruise larger sections of smallmouth bass rivers due to the rocks, which can wreck a conventional propeller. I prefer a kayak or a canoe when river fishing.

Some experts and guides prefer drift-boats. Paddle-powered vessels go easy on the environment; the only carbon footprint I leave behind is the smoke trailing from a Macanudo cigar.

Moreover, targeting smallies from a canoe or kayak affords the advantage of getting into narrow and skinny waters, which are usually less pressured. Fishing more remote waters can heighten the angling experience.

Lure or Fly? Why Choose, Fish Both It doesn’t matter what species you target, the debate about what lures or flies catch best is never ending.

For bronzebacks, shallow-running,

wobbly crankbaits can be particularly effective, especially when trolled around weed flats and shorelines. This technique is also good for exploring new water, searching for fish. In deeper waters, switch to a medium or deep-diving bait.

I’m a big fan of spinnerbaits.

I’ve found them to be excellent all-round lures when casting to many species. They are fairly weedless and snag-free, so cast them into anything except the heaviest vegetation.

As for flies, effective surface patterns include grasshopper, dragonfly, and damselfly imitations; and standard streamer patterns such as woolly-buggers and Clouser minnows.

The best bait colors depend on what river or section of river you’re fishing. I’ve had good luck with neutral to dark colors and chartreuse.

H A M P T O N , VA EST. 1610

Recommended Outfits When fishing heavier lures into cover (aquatic vegetation, fallen timber, stumps) or around structure (rocks, docks and bridge pilings) smallmouth anglers tend to use medium-heavy to heavy-power baitcasting outfits loaded with at least 25-pound monofilament line, with many opting for braided line from 20- to even 40-pound test. I typically use a seven-foot, mediumpower spinning rod matched to a 4000 series reel line spooled with 20-pound Berkley Superline, a dependable braided multifilament polyethylene line. h Captain Chris Dollar is a fishing guide, tackle shop owner, all-around Chesapeake outdoorsman and writer with more than 25 years experience in avoiding office work.

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jody’s log

Cannes

Oldest! Biggest! Best!

The world’s first and only column about boat show superlatives— one thousand four hundred words and plenty of free dock space.

by Capt. Jody Argo Schroath

COURTESY PHOTOS

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s you will have deduced from the headline, I am writing about boat shows this month. October is Boat Show Month around here, after all, and Annapolis is vibrating with the anticipation of it.

But this is not a going to be a how-tosee-the-show-and-what-to-do-whenyou-get-there story—I have never figured any of that out myself. Which is why I’ve chosen another road entirely.

In the beginning, I thought I’d start by describing the origins of boat shows, so naturally, I searched for “history of boat shows,” and Google returned copious information on the “history of boat shoes,” because the search engine assumed that I

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misspelled the word. As it happens, I already knew the history of boat shoes, which is to say Sperry, because the company’s story recounts the winter day in 1935 when Paul Sperry discovered the solution to non-skid deck soles by watching his cocker spaniel run across the Connecticut ice.

(I tend to remember stories that include dogs.) This inspired Perry to slice grooves into his rubber soles similar to your standard dog paw, and the world’s first boat shoe was created.

I would have added a couple of extra legs too, since four is steadier than two, but that would have been a completely different and weird story so let’s not go there.

The reason I like to find out about

the history of things is so I can appear a little extra intelligent and put a subject into its proper perspective. I was hoping that I’d be able to say, something like, “The first boat shows were held on golden fall weekends in old Athens, with shiny new triremes tied up along the quay and Diogenes arguing with the broker over the extras.” However, after hours of grueling research while drinking a beer and watching the sun go down, I learned no such thing. Triremes, by the way, were ancient war ships with three sets of oars, but apparently no appearances at boat shows, though I wouldn’t rule out a good used one showing up now and then on some ancient equivalent of Craig’s List; and

Salone Nautico

Diogenes was looking for an honest man, not a boat show.

In any case, I’m going to tell you what I found about boat shows, though—Diogenes, please note—I don’t promise that all of it, especially the superlatives that follow, is correct.

That’s part of the charm of superlatives, after all. They are so, well, over the top. Besides, we already know that the Annapolis Sailboat Show, which is celebrating its 50th birthday this month, is the first, oldest and biggest in-water new sailboat show in the world. And, in the opinion of those of us who have been to more than a few boat shows, it and its sibling powerboat show are also the best.

Now that we have that out of the way, let’s begin.

The award for oldest boat show anywhere appears to go to the New York Boat Show, an indoor event that turns 115 years old this January. Dating to 1905, the first New York Boat Shows were held in the old Madison Square Garden, where boats arrived on horse-drawn trailers. To prove to

Ft. Lauderdale

buyers that the boats would float, show organizers created a lake on the Garden’s main floor. I’m not saying that it’s related, but Madison Square Garden is no longer part of the boat show schedule. Dogs, yes. Boats, no.

The New York Boat Show continues to prosper at the Jacob Javits Center five blocks away in Hell’s Kitchen .

The Miami Boat Show bows in next in longevity. The show opened with one tent and 50 boats in 1941; ancient history in Florida years. It has expanded over the years and now encompasses 1,400 boats, one thousand exhibitors, and a million square feet of exhibition space. Last year, the 30-year-old Miami Yacht Show moved from Miami Beach to the mainland, making the Miami waterfront from Marine Stadium north to One Herald Plaza, site of the old Miami Herald building, a continuous sea of boats.

Speaking of mind-boggling, we now come to FLIBS, which sounds like a 1960s Disney movie but is actually the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show. FLIBS makes a good case for

having the most of everything: 1,500 boats worth a total of $4 billion displayed at seven marinas along six miles of floating docks. It’s the Godzilla of boat shows, eating up marinas for a long weekend in late October and then spitting them back out to go about their business in November, just in time for the winter tourists. The show celebrated its 60th birthday last year and, not given to understatement, calls itself the “largest in-water yacht show on earth.”

In Europe, only the Genoa (Italy) show, “Salone Nautico,” is as old as FLIBS. The show bills itself as “the greatest boat show of the Mediterranean Sea,” which seems modest, all things considered, but then, in a burst of perhaps poorly translated enthusiasm continues, “The Genoa Boat Show is a transversal event with great verticality defining a one-to-one relationship with every single operator and visitor.”

While we’re in the Med, the young whipper-snapper Monaco Yacht Show (age 20) calls itself the most October 2019

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jody’s log

“deliberately exclusive,” with day tickets starting at $305, which doesn’t include visits aboard any of the yachts.

Back to our task. The Southampton (England) Boat Show, “Britain’s biggest and best festival of boating showcases,” and Boot Dusseldorf, have been around for 50 years. The Boot (pronounced “boat” by the way,) is a doozy, claiming the title of world’s largest indoor boat show, with 14 halls and 2,000 exhibitors. The Cannes Yachting Show, aged 40, opens the European season each September with its own set of superlatives: “Europe’s leading in-water boating event,” for example, and “the largest in-water exhibition in the world of new sailboats.”

Hey, wait a minute, we have that one already, don’t we?

Never mind. Next, a quick stop in Australia for the Brisbane Boat Show, which proclaims itself (probably correctly) to be the largest indoor-only boat show in the Southern Hemisphere. Hemisphere. I like that, it leaves a bit of room for growth. And speaking hemispherically, the 52-yearold Sydney International Boat Show stakes its claim as the largest recreational marine event in the Southern Hemisphere, with more than 220 exhibitors across two venues, more than 200 boats at a purposebuilt marina and more than 700 boats in the halls.

Whew, superlatives are exhausting!

Now back to America, where we find more claims than a 19th century gold rush, though often on a more manageable geographic scale. The Great Upstate Boat Show, for example, lays claim to being the largest boat show between New York City, Albany, and Montreal. Nice and tidy, that one.

And the Great Lakes Boating Festival in Grosse Point boasts that it is the place to be for southeastern Michigan

boaters. Meanwhile, the KX Sports Show in Minot proclaims itself North Dakota’s largest boat show. And who could argue?

Every year, there are dozens and dozens of boat shows all over the country, from Tulsa and the Ozarks to Seattle and Houston, all of them interesting and all with something to offer.

But indulge me in one final stop, the Cleveland Boat Show, which modestly advises you that it’s “the place to find the best vendors for all things boating.” But then it reveals its secret weapon: Twiggy, the waterskiing grey squirrel. Twiggy, it seems, will be coming out of retirement this year to perform her new wakeboarding act. Twiggy, the show publicity explains, appeared at the first Cleveland Boat Show 40 years ago “in what is widely regarded as the most popular boat show entertainment ever created.” In other words, who needs geographical distinctions when you’ve got a squirrel on skis?

Okay, I’ll admit it, I love all boat shows, with or without talented geriatric rodents. All those beautiful boats! All that glorious boat gear! It’s true that my biggest boat show purchase each year is usually head chemicals (they always are a good price there), but I am always dazzled just to be there. Which brings me to my ultimate point: While you are looking at beautiful boats and glorious gear this month, come see us in the Chesapeake Bay Magazine tent at the Annapolis shows—the best in the Northern Hemisphere, North American branch.

CBM Cruising Editor Jody Argo Schroath, with the help and not infrequent hindrance of ship’s dogs Bindi and Sammy, goes up and down bays, rivers and creeks in search of adventure and stories.

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10:00am 11:00am 12:00pm 1:00pm 2:00pm 3:00pm 4:00pm

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

SUNDAY

Oct. 11

Oct. 12

Oct. 13

How we pay for it

SV DELOS:

Ask a Captain

Getting Your Captain’s License

French Canals

by Sailboat

Bermuda Bound

Women at the Wheel

Electrical Systems

Marine Diesel Basics

Marine Diesel Basics

Sailboat Plumbing

Docking De-Stressed

Navigation Apps

Docking De-Stressed

Getting Your Captain’s License

Docking De-Stressed

Cruising the ICW

Cruising the ICW

Weekend on the Chesapeake Bay

Weekend on the Chesapeake Bay

Weekend on the Chesapeake Bay

SV DELOS - HOW WE PAY FOR IT

Brian Trautman of YouTube sensation SV DELOS will discuss some of the costs associated with cruising, where his favorite cheap spots are, and how it’s possible to use the internet and social media to fund this lifestyle.

RUBY ROSE - FRENCH CANALS

Nick and Terysa from popular YouTube Channel Sailing Yacht Ruby Rose, dreamed of exploring French Canals by sailboat. They will discuss how they turned their sailing yacht into a canal boat, the logistics and costs, and the highlights of their journey.

JUMP START YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Join marine electrician Bob Campbell as he gives an overview of and how to maintains and improve your boat’s electrical system.

NAVIGATION APPS

As we navigate into the 21st century, the incorporation of technology with traditional navigation methods can lead to greater accuracy and confidence. Explore how to combine the latest tablet and smart phone apps with traditional methods.

GETTING YOUR CAPTAIN’S LICENSE

Between the USCG requirements for sea time, physicals, applications and examination, getting a captain’s license can seem daunting. Annapolis School of Seamanship’s expert captains will discuss the ins and outs of becoming a licensed captain.

MARINE DIESEL BASICS

Pros from the Annapolis School of Seamanship will run through the basics of marine diesel engine operation and maintenance, as well as troubleshooting common problems.

DOCKING DE-STRESSED Is docking your vessel causing you stress and anxiety? Let the Annapolis School of Seamanship show you the ropes, tricks, and techniques to make docking easy.

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SAILING, CRUISING, AND SYSTEMS At the Annapolis Waterfront Hotel WOMEN AT THE WHEEL

Designed by women for women, this seminar covers what you need to know before getting out on the water. A combination of safety, boat handling, and terminology. Sunday at the show wouldn’t be complete without mimosas provided by Pusser’s!

NAVIGATION APPS

As we navigate into the 21st century, the incorporation of technology with traditional navigation methods can lead to greater accuracy and confidence. Explore how to combine the latest tablet and smart phone apps with traditional methods.

ASK A CAPTAIN

Do you ever wish you had a professional captain onboard with you so you could ask questions about the situations that challenge you on the water? Join Annapolis School of Seamanship for this quetion and answer session.

BERMUDA BOUND

Dream of sailing to Bermuda? This challenging course combines inshore and offshore racing and enables sailors to fulfill a lifelong ambition of a bluewater passage. Join veteran sailor and race chair Michael Lehmkuhl for this overview.

CRUISING THE ICW

Whether you’re heading for Key West or the Great Loop, one leg of the voyage is generally the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW). Chesapeake Bay Magazine’s Jody Schroath will lead a discussion about the joys and pitfalls of cruising inland waters.

SAILBOAT PLUMBING

Marine heads, gray water, black water, potable water, water makers, bilge pumps, macerator pumps, washdown pumps... The world of sailboat plumbing has become a complex maze of pumps, tanks, and valves. Join us for an overview of options available and how to use them.

WEEKEND ON THE CHESAPEAKE BAY

Join Chesapeake Bay Magazine’s John Stefancik to explore Chesapeake towns that make for easy one and two-night weekend trips on almost any boat. We’ll visit ports loaded with history and good restaurants, and some fine marinas, too. Plan a summer to remember!

All seminars are held at the Annapolis Waterfront Hotel, second floor ballroom. Enter from Compromise Street or through the Pusser’s show gate. Take the elevator to the second floor.

For more info, call Annapolis School of Seamanship at (410) 263-8848. Limited seating available. First come, first served. Seminar schedule and speakers are subject to change.

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2002 44’ Endeavour - $229,500 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

1986 42’ Fu Hwa - $89,000 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

1998 42’ Treworgy - $258,000 Lin Earley - 757.672.2778

1987 42’ Grand Banks - $178,500 Jeremy Churchill - 757.636.7515

1971 40’ Hinckley - $64,900 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295

2004 36’ Carver - $105,000 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

2004 36’ Bavaria - $92,000 Curtis Stokes - 410.919.4900

2000 27’ Judge - $42,500 David Robinson - 410.310.8855

2003 26’ Sea Ray - $29,500 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

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www.curtisstokes.net October 2019

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

115

Your Exclusive Regulator Chesapeake Bay Dealer

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BLUEWATERYACHTSALES.COM

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65' Princess 1999 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

58' Hatteras 1977 - Call Jud: 757.846.7909

58' Princess 2008 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

55' Neptunus 1997 - Call Scott: 757.570.3944

54' Hatteras 1990 - Call Scott: 757.570.3944

54' Hatteras 1987 - Call Scott: 703.307.5900

53' Elco 1937 - Call Jud: 757.846.7909

49' Grand Banks 1999 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

46' Maxum 1998 - Call Scott: 703.307.5900

46' Sea Ray 2000 - Call Roger: 410.456.3659

46' Cobalt 2008 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

46' Maxum 2000 - Call Hank: 804.337.1945

45' Formula 2010 - Call Roger: 410.456.3659

43' Grand Banks 2014 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

43' Silverton 2005 - Call Harry: 757.912.6784

43' Azimut 2006 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

43' Grand Banks 2002 - Call Matt: 410.206.2755

42' Hatteras 1995 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

41' Back Cove 2014 - Call Chris Jr: 757.509.0742

39' Sea Ray 2004 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

38' Grand Banks 1998 - Call Chris Jr: 757.509.0742

37' Back Cove 2017 - Call Chris Jr: 757.509.0742

34’ Sea Ray 2001 - Call Roger: 410.456.3659

32’ Sea Ray 2003 - Call Scott: 757.570.3944

BOATING’S BEST BRANDS (New model representation varies by territory)

October 2019

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

BLUEWATER HAS EVERY VALHALLA, REGULATOR, JUPITER, SABRE & BACK COVE MODEL IN STOCK OR ON ORDER!

117

410-269-0939 www.CrusaderYachts.com www.CrusaderYa Y chts.com Ya

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TARTAN 365 Featured Brokerage 53’ 2004 Oyster 53 ............................................... $439,000 53’ 1982 Amel Mango 53 .................................. $150,000 48’ 1990 Ocean Yachts MY 48 .......................... $140,000 47’ 1982 Vagabond 47 Ketch ........................... $125,000 47’ 2000 Passport 470 ................................................ CALL 47’ 1982 Stevens 47 CC ...................................... $130,000 44’ 1982 Cape Cod Mercer 44............................. $85,000 44’ 2009 Tartan 4400........................................... $429,000 43’ 2000 Saga 43 ............................................................. Call 43’ 2009 Tartan 4300 # 19 ................................. $339,000 42 2000 Moody 42 CC ........................................... $93,000 42’ 2003 Hunter 426 DS .................................... $138,000 42’ 2001 J Boat 42 ............................................... $170,000 42’ 2018 Legacy 42 IPS - Available Now ...... $895,000 41’ 2003 Tartan 4100 - Deep Keel................... $179,000 41’ 2004 Tartan 4100........................................... $249,000 40’ 1994 Hunter 40.5.............................................. $69,900 40’ 1985 Tartan 40................................................ $107,900 40’ 1997 Pacific Seacraft 40 ............................. $240,000 40’ 1987 Tartan 40........................................................ CALL 39’ 2019 Tartan 395 ............................................. $399,000

Mike Titgemeyer CPYB, Owner 410-703-7986

Rod Rowan CPYB Mike Titgemeyer 703-593-7531 CPYB, Owner 410-703-7986

118 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

October 2019

35’ 1993 Tartan 3500.............................................. $89,000 39’ 1993 J Boat 39 .................................................. $29,000 35’ 1984 Wauquiez Pretorien .............................. $53,000 38’ 1988 Sabre 38 Mk II ....................................... $89,000 35’ 2006 Catalina 350 ......................................... $109,000 38’ 1994 Benetau 38S5 ......................................... $59,000 35’ 2001 Silverton 35 ............................................. $72,500 38’ 2006 C&C 115 ................................................ $179,000 35’ 2015 SeaRay 35 SLX ..................................... $247,500 38’ 1999 Island Packet 380 .............................. $169,900 34’ 2018 Tartan 345 Almost New.................... $280,000 37’ 2008 Tartan 3700 CCR ................................ $275,000 34’ 2006 Tartan 3400........................................... $135,000 37’ 1996 Hunter 375................................................... CALL 37’ 1998 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37 - Encore $115,000 34’ 1995 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 34............... $89,000 37’ 1994 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37 - Sablier $114,000 34’ 2020 Tartan 345 Order - January .................... CALL Featured $108,000 Brokerage 33’ 2015 Tartan 101 - Trade In ! ....................... $169,000 37’ 2006 Beneteau 373 ......................................

32’ 2020 Legacy 32 - Order - April ......................... CALL 37’2007 Tartan3700 - Deep Keel .................... $173,000 32’ 1995 Catalina 320 ............................................ $42,500 37’ 2005 Island Packet 370 ....................................... CALL 32’ 2015 Legacy 32 .............................................. $299,000 36’ 1984 Cape Dory 36 .......................................... $99,000 30’ 2015 C&C 30.................................................... $139,500 36’ 2001 Beneteau 361 ......................................... $69,900 28’ 1985 Laser 28..................................................... $15,500 36’ 1984 Kadey-Krogen Manatee ................... $105,000 28’ 2009 McKee Craft Freedom 28 CC ............. $78,000 36’ 2008 Hunter 36 ................................................. $85,000 27’ 1987 Pacific Seacraft Orion 27..................... $38,000 36’ 2020 Tartan 365 # 2 ...................................... $350,000 27’ 2016 FourWInns 275 Express ....................... $89,900 36’ 2019 Legacy 36 # 8 In Annapolis ............. $585,000 27’ 1992 Nor’Sea 27 ............................................... $59,000 36’ 2006 Hunter 36 ................................................. $94,000 24 2000 McKee Craft 245 ..................................... $39,000 35’ 1999 Tartan 3500................................................... CALL 24’ 1987 Pacific Seacraft Dana 24 ..................... $44,000 35’ 1978 Pearson 35 Total Refit .......................... $80,000

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October 2019

® BO ATS 119 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

SEE US IN EGO ALLEY Tent G

46’ 2003 Black Thunder 46EC • $144,900

44’ 1994 Carver 440 Aft • $109,900

42’ 1986 Grand Banks 42 Classic • $159,900

41’ 2002 Formula 41 PC • $119,900

41’ 2000 Sea Ray 410 Sundancer • $110,000

41’ 1995 Sunseeker Tomahawk 41 • $89,900

40’ 1999 Regal 402 Commodore $64,900

39’ 1994 Carver 390 Cockpit Motoryacht • $49,900

38’ 1993 Bayliner 3888 Motoryacht • $49,900

38’ 1998 Cruisers Yacths 3870 Esprit • $74,900

37’ Cruisers Yachts 3750 Motoryacht • $119,000

32’ 2007 Rinker 320 Express Cruiser • $54,900

31’ 2004 Chaparral 310 - Clean!! $64,900

31’ Sea Ray 310 Sundancer • $42,900

28’ 1999 Carolina Classic 28 Express Fisherman • $59,900

28’ 2005 Sea Ray 280 Sundancer • $44,900

27’ 2000 Sea Ray 270 Sundancer $25,900

26’ 2013 Cobalt 26SD $59,900

26’ 2010 Crownline 260 CR $49,900

24’ 2014 Crownline E 4 $59,900

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120 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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SAIL & POWER

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OUTBOUND 46 – 2012 $495,000

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SOUTHERLY 38 – 2009 $299,000

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ADVERTISERS INDEX A&M Marine Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Alex & Ani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 American Sailing Association . . . . . . . . . . . . .ASP C4 Anchor Boats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Annapolis Boat Shows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4, 19 Annapolis City Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Annapolis Custom Yacht Canvas . . . . . . . . . . ASP46 Annapolis School of Seamanship . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Annapolis Symphony Orchestra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Annapolis Yacht Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11, 114 Automotive Training Center . . . . . . . . . . .78, APP43 Bainbridge International . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP15 Balmar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP14 Baltimore Boating Center, LLC . . . . . . . 120, APP31 Bay Shore Marine Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51, 89 Belmont Bay Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Blackway Boat Models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Bluewater Yacht Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116, 117 Boatyard Bar & Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34, APP4, ASP5 Bohemia Bay Yacht Harbour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Boston Whaler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Bragg & Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Butter Pat Industries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Calvert Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Campbell’s Boatyards & Yacht Services . . . . . . . 107 Cantler’s Riverside Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, APP5, ASP4 Captain Rick Rhodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Charles County Gov’t Recreation, Parks & Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum . . . . . . .28, 123 Chesapeake Bay Roasting Company . . . . . . . . . . .49 Chesapeake Boating Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Chesapeake Sailmakers/Elvstron Sails . . . . . ASP23 Chesapeake Whalertowne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .APP C4 Chesapeake Yacht Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . APP C2, 1 ClampTite LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125, ASP48 Clarks Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93, APP48 CN DE Mexico LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP23 Coastal Properties Management . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Coldwell Banker Chesapeake Real Estate-Mary Carlisle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 Coldwell Banker Church Circle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Conch Charters Ltd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP12 Coppercoat USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP40 Kent County Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94-100 Craftmark Homes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . APP47 Cross Street Realtors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP28 Cruising Solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125, ASP47 Crusader Yacht Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Curtis Stokes & Associates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Dan Nardo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ASP C3 Danny’s Marine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Djawdan Center For Implant & Restorative Dentistry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Dorchester County Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Dream Yacht Charter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP21, 22, 41 Duffy Creek Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 Eagle Realty-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Eastport Yacht Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Electronic Marine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .APP28, ASP30 EWOL Propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP37 Fairwinds Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Forespar Products Corporation . . . . . . . . . . . ASP31 Formula X2 Mid-Atlantic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Garry Domnisse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP47 GEICO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 George’s Mixes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .APP42, ASP23 Gibson’s Lodging of Annapolis . . . .68, APP4, ASP5 Grady-White Boats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Grande Yachts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Gratitude Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Greater Rock Hall Business Association . . . . . . . 100 Hampton Convention & Visitors Bureau . . . . . 103 Harbour Cove Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Harris Crab House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .APP32, ASP42 Hartge Yacht Harbor LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Haven Harbour Marina, LLC . . . . . 1, APP20, ASP33 Hawk’s Yachts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .APP27, C3 Helly Hansen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . APP5, ASP4 Herrington Harbour Marinas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Hickory Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 Homestead Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C2 Inn at Horn Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Isabell K Horsley Real Estate . . .110, APP39, ASP26 J Gordon Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .APP32, ASP48 Jack Martin & Associates . . . . . . . . . . .APP36, ASP15 John Caldwell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 John’s Canvas Work LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . APP41 Kinetic Catamarans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ASP2 Knapps Narrows Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Krogen Express . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Lifeline Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP27 Long & Foster / The Shultz Team . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Luna Blu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 M Yacht Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP14 Maptech . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .APP26, ASP35 Marine Max . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .APP2 Marinebeam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP15 Mariner International Travel The Moorings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5, ASP1 Maryland Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 MD DNR Clean Marinas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 MDR Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Merco Marine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . APP46 Mission Escape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Nancy Hammond Editions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 Naval Academy Athletic Association . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Naval Bagels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .APP42, ASP23 North Point Yacht Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Oasis Marinas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2, 3

Snag-a-Slip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Oasis Marinas / Great Oak Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 Oasis Marinas / Harbor East . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Oasis Marinas / Inner Harbor Marina . . . . . . . . . . .31 Oasis Marinas / Lighthouse Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Osprey Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Pasadena Boat Works . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Pettit Marine Paint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Pocket Yacht Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . APP17 Port Annapolis Marina Inc . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15, APP19 Premier Planning Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Read Commercial Properties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Riverside Marine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91, APP15 Rock Hall Marine Railway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Rod and Reel Resort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . APP48 S&J Yachts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Safe Harbor Marinas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Seakeeper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C4 Shades of the Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22, APP22, ASP12 Shipwright Harbor Marina . . . . . 69, APP31, ASP43 Signature Canvas Makers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Smith’s Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 South African Boatbuilders Export Council . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ASP C3 South Annapolis Yacht Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 St. Andrews Day School . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Visit St. Mary’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Stingray Point Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Suntrust Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . APP3, ASP3 SureShade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87 Talbot County Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 The McNelis Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . insert The Rigging Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP43 The Sailing Academy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Tilghman Island Realty, Inc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Trident Funding Corporation . . . . . .APP36, ASP14 Tufted Topper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 ugo wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91, APP29, ASP39 United States Power Squadron District 5 . . . . . . .69 Untold Horizon LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP46 vanessa piche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ASP32 Varadero Yacht Charter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34, ASP37 Visit Annapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Volvo Cars Annapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Waterfowl Festival . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Waterfront Marine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87 Watergate Pointe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Williams & Heintz . . . . . . . . . . . . .125, APP40, ASP42 Worton Creek Marina, LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 Yacht Maintenance Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Yacht Sales International . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Yacht View Brokerage, LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Zahniser’s Safe Harbors Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Zimmerman Marine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

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n 1847, Charles Carroll V, grandson of the signer of the Declaration of Independence, launched a novel business venture. Through an agent, he placed an ad in the Easton Gazette offering 25 cents each for black cats, intending to raise them for fur to supply a supposed black-pelt demand in China. The operation was based on Poplar Island, which Carroll owned, and one source put the eventual feline population at almost 1,000. The operation foundered, however, when a hard winter freeze opened an escape route. The cats walked across the ice to the mainland, never to return. The cat farm dissolved in acrimony and lawsuits.

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Celebrating 50 Years of Sailboat Shows in Annapolis

Mia, nice meeting you last night.

About our date...would you like to join me on my boat tomorrow?

12 sec ago

It has a Seakeeper, right?

4 sec ago

ONCE YOU FEEL IT, YOU’LL NEVER BOAT WITHOUT IT. SCHEDULE A DEMO RIDE TODAY

seakeeper.com

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