Weekends on the Water 2020

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Talbot County is home to some of the most beautiful and historic small towns in America. Explore our culinary treasures, one-of-a-kind boutiques and elegant inns.

Or bike, kayak and sail the Chesapeake Bay. Plan your escape today!

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contents

On the Cover: Photo by Robert Glover. Hand lettering by Lauren Hom

CBM

Weekends on the Water 2020 / Volume 50 Number 4

28 14 58 38 14

28 38

DESTINATIONS

14 Havre de Grace

From bootleleggers’ paradise to boaters’ getaway.

48

Urbanna A tiny town

that’s big on charm. And big on oysters.

28 Rock Hall 58 Hampton Deale & Herring Bay 38 68 Cape Charles Celebrating the watermen (and their tasty catch).

Get away from it all with great boating and fishing.

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

First on the list for history, boating, and fun.

Proof that you can’t keep a good town down.

48 68 58

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welcome Volume 50

CBM

Number 4

PUBLISHER

John Stefancik

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Evans

Managing Editor: Chris Landers Cruising Editor: Jody Argo Schroath News Director: Meg Walburn Viviano Multimedia Journalist: Cheryl Costello Editors at Large: Wendy Mitman Clarke, Chris D. Dollar, Ann Levelle, John Page Williams Contributing Writers: Rafael Alvarez, Laura Boycourt, Larry Chowning, Ann Eichenmuller, Henry Hong, Marty LeGrand, Emmy Nicklin, Tom Price, Nancy Taylor Robson, Karen Soule

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jill BeVier Allen

Contributing Photographers: Andy Anderson, Mark L. Atwater, Skip Brown, André Chung, Dan Duffy, Jay Fleming, Austin Green, Jameson Harrington, Mark Hergan, Jill Jasuta, Vince Lupo, K.B. Moore, Will Parson, Tamzin B. Smith, Chris Witzgall

PRODUCTION MANAGER Patrick Loughrey

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Mike Ogar

ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Michael Kucera • 804-543-2687 m.kucera@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Senior Account Manager Emily Stevenson • 410-924-0232 emily@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Senior Account Manager Megan Tilley • 919-452-0833 megan@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Publisher Emeritus Richard J. Royer CHESAPEAKE BAY MEDIA, LLC Chief Executive Officer, John Martino Chief Financial Officer, Rocco Martino Executive Vice President, Tara Davis 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403 410-263-2662 • fax 410-267-6924 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Editorial: editor@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Circulation: circ@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Billing: billing@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Chesapeake Bay Magazine (ISSN0045-656X) (USPS 531-470) is published by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC, 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. $25.95 per year, 12 issues annually. $7.99 per copy. Periodical postage paid at Annapolis, MD 21403 and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes or corrections for Chesapeake Bay Magazine to 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. Copyright 2020 by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC— Printed in the U.S.A.

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Weekends on the Water 2020 Six exciting new destinations!

L

ast year’s Weekends on the Water was so successful that we decided to come back with six new destinations to tempt you to get out and explore the Bay. We know it’s easy to fall into a rut. We all do it. We tend go to places we already know. St. Michaels, Annapolis, Solomons, Deltaville. Don’t get us wrong, these are great places! In fact, they are so great we featured all of them in our first ever Weekends on the Water. When we go to these places we know where to dock or launch our boat, where to stay, what to do, Jody Argo Schroath CBM Cruising Editor where to find the best ice cream. In other words, we feel right at home. And while we understand that’s important, we also know that there are lots, lots of new places to explore, new restaurants to sample and, of course, new ice cream flavors to try out.

So, pull out the charts and the calendar, and let’s figure this out.

We know that before you go, you’ll want to know where to stay, where to launch your boat, what there is to do, and, of course, where to get that ice cream. We’re going to tell you all that because that’s what Weekends on the Water is all about. We’ve chosen six new destinations for you to sample. Some of these you may already know about, because they are famous Chesapeake destinations. Three of them, Rock Hall, Hampton and Cape Charles, certainly fall into that category. A couple of them, Urbanna and Havre de Grace, you may have heard of but not considered because you don’t know much about them. And another, Herring Bay, you probably know only as DC-area boaters’ favorite place to keep their boat. But we’re here to show you that there’s so much more! And that’s true of all of this year’s Weekends on the Water destinations. We confidently believe you’ll find that they are some of the best destinations on the entire Bay! Read on, and we’ll tell you why.

This year we’re publishing in the middle of an unprecedented pandemic, and we know you have questions and concerns. Where possible, we’ve included the latest closings, but the situation changes quickly these days, so if there’s a special place you want to see, check with them to see what their current hours and rules are, and make sure you’re aware of the latest maskwearing and travel restrictions. Check the COVID-19 policies of the places you’re staying, and make sure you’re aware of all the local rules and regulations. Bring plenty of masks and hand sanitizer, wash your hands frequently and thoroughly, eat outside, or get carry-out when possible, and take all the precautions you’d take at home. If you feel uncomfortable making the trip now, don’t go. Remember, these towns have been around a long time, and they’ll still be just as beautiful next year. And, dear reader, we want the same for you.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

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HAVRE DE GRACE Surprise! This small town at the top of the Bay has everything your Weekend on the Water needs.

WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO

H TRAVEL ................16

LODGING ............18

SIGHTS ................20

DINING ................24

avre de Grace, the quiet little town up at the mouth of the Susquehanna River, has had a colorful past.

Just consider this: The town was effectively named in the 17th century by visiting general, Le Marquis de Lafayette, who was charmed by this early shipping port. After the Revolution, it missed becoming the capital of the United States by one vote. In the 18th century it lost its status as a port of call when a hurricane rearranged the channel to the other side of the Chesapeake, leaving it forgotten and isolated. In the 19th century, it became a center for mass duck harvesting by market hunters and the rich and famous, from presidents to robber barons. In the early 20th century, it was a favorite of gamblers, mob bosses, and refugees from Prohibition. (Did you know that Maryland was the only state that officially ignored Prohibition, the federal ban on alcohol?) And in the 21st, it settled down to become what it is today, a charming, friendly, and well-behaved city full of graceful Victorian homes, curious antiques shops, interesting restaurants and singular museums, a city more popular with retirees than renegades.

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WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO FIND Havre de Grace developed along the junction of the Susquehanna River—mother river of the Bay—and the Chesapeake. While that means that you are never more than two or three blocks from the water, it also means that if you want to go from one end of town to the other, you will have a hike of about a mile and a half from the city marina in Millard Tydings Park at the south end of town to the Havre de Grace Marina and the Lock House Museum at the north end. The other best choice, Tidewater Marina, is located approximately mid-way between the two. In any case, it’s a lovely walk, and you can always Uber back.

Most of the shops and restaurants you’ll be visiting are located along north/ south-running Washington and St. Johns/Market streets. Parallel streets, Lodge and Strawberry lanes, make equally pleasant walking since they are chock-ablock with lovely homes and shady trees.

HOW TO GET THERE If you are arriving by boat The channel into Havre de Grace is easy to follow but you will find it more than a little circuitous. For that, you can thank the broad, shallow expanse of the fish- and fowl-rich Susquehanna Flats. Boaters with shallow-draft boats who know the waters can find their way across, but the rest of us will need to dutifully follow the channel markers around the shoreline. The Havre de Grace/Susquehanna River Channel leaves the main Chesapeake Channel just after green “5” and red “6”. You can begin cutting over any time after green “3”. There’s plenty of water here at the grand intersection of the Bay with the Elk and Northeast rivers and the Havre de Grace/Susquehanna River Channel. Just make sure you pick out the red-green intersection buoy “A” and treat it as a red, keeping it to starboard as you enter the channel. The next marker, green “1S”, is a mile and a half north-northwest. Don’t worry, though, there is plenty of depth on both sides here, but the channel narrows after “1S” and the water around it shallows.

The markers are spaced closer together, though, so it’s easy to follow.

From there, the channel skirts the Flats and shadows Spesutie Island, a restricted area of the U.S. Army Aberdeen Proving Ground. As you turn north toward Havre de Grace, you’ll pass through a half-dozen tiny spoil islands to port and to starboard, the historic Fishing Battery Light, which, oddly, is considered part of the Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge.

Three miles beyond these little islands, you’ll find yourself at the south end of Havre de Grace and the channel into the city yacht basin at Tydings Memorial Park.

If you are aiming for another of the town’s marinas—in addition to the city marina, we recommend either Tidewater or Havre de Grace marinas—simply continue on the channel another half mile to a mile. We’ll get back to that in the next section.

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H AV R E D E G R A C E

If you are trailering in You’ll find Havre de Grace a welcoming place and the nearby waters fascinating to explore. Did we mention fishing? You’ve come to the right place. The Susquehanna Flats and Susquehanna River are world famous fishing grounds.

There are three easy options for trailer boaters. The first—and perhaps best if you want to leave your rig overnight—is Havre de Grace City Yacht Basin. Just be aware that its nicely paved ramp gets very busy with bass fishermen and weekend families. The ramp fee is $10 and it’s fine to leave your vehicle and trailer overnight—just let a marina official know. The city yacht basin ramp gives you easy access to the spoil islands just to the south, the Flats and, if you head north, the Susquehanna River.

About half-a-mile north of the city yacht basin and just north of the Amtrak railroad bridge, you’ll find another Havre de Grace boat ramp at Jean S. Roberts Memorial Park. Here boats with trailers will pay $5 for a smaller, rougher ramp.

Roberts Park sits at the mouth of the Susquehanna River.

A third option, especially if you are extending your stay beyond Havre de Grace, is Susquehanna State Park, about five miles upriver. In addition to its boat ramp at Lapidum, the park offers tent and RV camping and 15 miles of trails. There is a $10 boat launch charge.

If you are launching a kayak, canoe or SUP In addition to enjoying the pleasures of visiting Havre de Grace, you’ll find some nice paddling both to the north and south of town. Launch your vessels at any of the three places we’ve listed above—Havre de Grace City Yacht Basin, Jean S. Roberts Park and Susquehanna State Park—or from the floating dock at Frank J. Hutchins Park on Congress Avenue, just north of Tidewater Marina. All of these have good parking. We’ll talk about a couple of paddle trips later on.

If you are coming by seaplane What? Yes, really. In addition to everything else it has to offer, Havre de Grace has its own seaplane base, located just south of the Tidewater Grille. The facility, located on the water (of course) at St. Johns Street, has a pilots’ lounge, restrooms, and shops. You’ll find the designated seaplane landing area on the charts at the mouth of the river. Simply land, then taxi into the base loading dock.

WHERE TO STAY Havre de Grace City Yacht Basin Whether you are going to stay on your boat or not, a slip at the city marina in Tydings Park at the south end of town will put you within reach of nearly all that Havre de Grace has to offer. The only fly in the ointment may be the depth, which is generally about five feet on the approach and at the slips. If you need more, try either of our alternatives.

Line up with the marina channel markers after you pass Susquehanna channel green “17” and make the port turn (coming from the south). Then pass through the breakwater and find your slip. The marina has slip-holder restrooms and showers, fuel, pump-outs, and 30- and 50-amp service.

From the marina, take the promenade to visit the Decoy, Maritime, and Concord Lighthouse museums. Or walk through Tydings Park to Washington Street to visit many of the town’s shops and restaurants. First, enjoy a bite at the Promenade Grille in the park. Or pick up ice cream at Bomboy’s.

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MARINAS

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Washington Street Books

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Tydings Memorial Park

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Frank J. Hutchins Park

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Jean S. Robert Memorial Park

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Havre de Grace Decoy Museum

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Havre de Grace Maritime Museum

15

Lock House Museum

16

Concord Point Lighthouse

17

Bahoukas Antiques & Beer MuZeum

100 Bourbon St

352 Commerce St

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H AV R E D E G R A C E

Tidewater Marina If you continue along the Susquehanna channel another half-mile, you’ll come to Tidewater Marina, recognizable by its large mooring field. If you are heading for a slip rather than a mooring ball, turn to port (from the south) before the red and green “SR” nav aid to enter one of its two basins. Call on VHF 16 to get directions.

Tidewater Marina has fuel, restrooms, showers, full repair services and a good chandlery. Depths at the slips are about six feet.

Havre de Grace Marina Havre de Grace Marina at the north end of town has plenty of depth—about 15 feet reported—but sailboats will have to be able to negotiate the Amtrak railway bridge, which has a 52-foot closed clearance, though we have occasionally found as little as 49 feet. Theoretically, it will open on 24-hour notice, but since it carries a lot of trains, including high-speed ones, the opening would have to be pin-pointed to the minute. As a result, it almost never opens. Sailboats will find a better option at Tidewater or the city yacht basin.

Those who can get under the bridge, however, will find floating docks, a bath house, laundry, 30- and 50-amp service and all the usual amenities. There are also rental bicycles, kayaks, and SUPS.

Bed and Breakfast

u Susquehanna State Park

Havre de Grace has several lovely and charming bed and breakfasts, but we want to start with the Vandiver Inn on South Union Avenue. Even in a town chock full of glorious Victorian homes, the Vandiver Inn stands out as quintessentially of its time. Its gardens, porches and grounds are so stylish, smart and undated that you might feel a bit dizzy. Step inside, however, and you’ll find what owners Susan and John Muldoon call Chesapeake chic.

We also find the Currier House Bed & Breakfast on Market Street utterly irresistible. Built in the 1700s, it has been in the Currier family since 1861. Current owner Jane Currier has a hundred fascinating stories to tell, about the first Currier owners, her great-grandparents, and about her uncle Jim Currier, one of the Chesapeake’s most famous and well-respected decoy carvers.

Susquehanna State Park If you are towing your boat in (or on top of the car) and have a hankering to pitch a tent or rent a rustic cabin, consider a couple of nights at Susquehanna State Park.

From there you can launch your boat or drive into town for the day. You’ll have plenty of activities in the park itself and the kids can run, jump and whoop to their heart’s content. Just be sure to reserve in advance if you are going on a summer weekend.

WHAT TO DO Take a trip up the Susquehanna.

Whether you’ve come by boat, brought one along or come without one, there are

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Open 7 days a week – Year round Monday – Saturday: 10.30am -4.30pm Sunday: 12pm – 4pm *The Museum is currently open to the public. In response to COVID-19, we’ve made some essential changes to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience for all.

Photos by: Scott Moody

215 Giles Street, Havre de Grace, MD 21078

Decoys have been a central element of Chesapeake culture for centuries. In the beginning, they were made for one purpose — to lure waterfowl within range of the hunter’s shotgun.

Decoys were simple, utilitarian representations of ducks and geese rough-hewn from wood. No one considered them art. Today, decoys lure far more people than waterfowl. One is perhaps more likely to find a decoy adorning a collector’s mantelpiece than floating in a hunter’s rig.

Contemporary carvers produce sophisticated works of art with century-old skills that have been passed down from master to apprentice for generations. Located on the banks of the historic Susquehanna Flats, the Havre de Grace Decoy Museum houses one of the finest collections of working and decorative Chesapeake Bay decoys ever assembled. Visit the Decoy Museum and discover the art of decoy making and waterfowling traditions that make Havre de Grace, Maryland the “ Decoy Capital of the World!”

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some very pleasant ways you can get out on the water and enjoy its principal tributary, the Susquehanna River. Of course, the Susquehanna was never an easy river to navigate. In 1609, Captain John Smith was turned back by the same rock-strewn shallows that still frustrate boaters.

Early in the 20th century, a series of energy-producing dams—including the mighty Conowingo, 10 miles north of Havre de Grace—put a stop to any throughtransportation, but now, if the river is quiet and the Conowingo is not dumping water, kayakers and Jon-boaters with local knowledge can get within 400 yards of the dam, but no closer, it’s not permitted. It is important to be sure of conditions before venturing out and to understand that snags and rocks can play havoc with boats and motors. The area in front of the dam draws photographers and birders from all over the world to watch eagles soar over the rocks and dam, picking off fish downstream. Kayakers and trailer boaters can put in at Susquehanna State Park and kayakers farther upstream at Shuresville Landing at Fisherman’s Park.

A more sensible alternative is for boaters whose mast-height does not exceed 50 feet to make the trip upriver out of Havre de Grace, past Garrett Island as far as Port Deposit. The geography here is unlike anything else on the Chesapeake, with steep bluffs rising high above the water.

Other people’s boats

u Conowingo Dam

Didn’t bring a boat or just want to take a break? Here are some options: If you’d like to try your hand with a kayak or paddleboard, simply rent one at Havre de Grace Marina. Or you can rent a sailboat for a half-day or more, or charter a boat from Baysail Yacht Charter and Sailing School located at Tidewater Marina on Bourbon Street.

For something completely different, try parasailing. Old Town Parasail is located at the city yacht basin on Commerce Street.

Want someone else to do the work? Try a Signature or Sunset Cruise aboard the M/V Summer Breeze, which leaves out of Hutchins Park on Congress Avenue.

Or board the paddleboat Black-Eyed Susan, also out of Havre de Grace Marine Center for occasional specialty and Sunday afternoon cruises.

Four fine museums!

Wait, don’t panic, this is going to be fun. Yes, Havre de Grace has four museums.

And yes, you should visit them all.

If you only visit one of Havre de Grace museum, we suggest that you make it the Decoy Museum. It doesn’t matter whether you are a keen hunter or quake at the thought, this museum represents a big part of the history of the Chesapeake Bay. And the decoys created by Bay carvers are astonishing.

The museum itself is big, bright, airy and well laid out on two floors. You can get to it from the Promenade, the three-quarter mile walkway that wanders through the marsh and waterfront from Tydings Park in the south to Concord Point Lighthouse and Keeper’s House Museum in the north.

After you leave the Decoy Museum, it’s only a hop, skip and a jump along the Promenade to the Havre de Grace Maritime Museum and another similarly short

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@ H D G m a r i n e c e nt e r

H AV R E D E G R A C E

walk to the Concord Point Lighthouse, which is open on Saturday and Sunday afternoons April to October.

The fourth museum, the Lock Tenders Museum, lies at the north end of town.

It is here that the short-lived Susquehanna Canal met the Chesapeake. In addition to the tender’s house, there are the remains of one of the canal locks.

Shops

u Decoy Museum

One of the particularly glorious things about Havre de Grace is its shops. We know, that doesn’t sound any more exciting than visiting four museums, but trust us, it is.

There are fun antiques shops and galleries, like JoRetro Vintage Market, which specializes in 50s, 60s, and 70s everything, Artists By the Bay, Arts Emporium, and Bayside Arts, to name but a few. Then there are the shops you won’t find anywhere else, like Bahoukas Antiques Mall and Beer MuZeum. But there’s more, like Vincenti Decoys, which sells decoys old and new, of course, but a lot more, and Washington Street Books and Music, which has books and music, but also toys, old movie costumes, and props. Even Havre de Grace’s food shops are one of a kind.

Take for example Goll’s old-fashioned German bakery. Or Les Petits Bisous, which features authentic, made-by-theowner macarons. And have we mentioned Bomboy’s Ice Cream enough times? Well, there’s more.

Across the street you’ll find Bomboy’s Candy Shop. You’ll find all of these downtown, mostly on Washington, but also on Pennington, St. Johns and Market streets.

LaFayette Walk Simply follow the bright blue French fleurs-de-lys painted on Havre de Grace’s sidewalks to follow the LaFayette Walk, which encompasses many of the town’s historic and architecturally significant buildings. You can pick up the brochure at the visitor center on Pennington Street.

Tydings Park Take the kids to Millard Tydings Park at the south end of town to enjoy the huge playground and room to run. Pick up a sandwich at the Promenade Grill and sit in the shade and enjoy.

WHAT TO EAT Breakfast If we want more than a cup of coffee, we gravitate to the tiny Vintage Café on Washington Street for a simple but reliably tasty breakfast. Waffles, cheesy potatoes, milk shakes. It’s all good. Opens at 7 a.m. every day but Monday.

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On the other hand, if we want to concentrate on getting a great cup of coffee, we stick with Washington Street and head for Concord Point Coffee, though we like Java by the Bay too, especially if we’re pairing the coffee with dessert.

Lunch and Dinner Picking out just a few of Havre de Grace’s many good restaurants to highlight is tough, but here goes: We have already mentioned the Promenade Grill in Tydings Park, but we’ll say again that it’s a handy spot to pick up a sandwich for an impromptu picnic in the park. Then, as we’ve also mentioned about six times, we head up to Bomboy’s for yummy homemade ice cream.

When we want to sit down to a nice lunch or dinner, we love the view and enjoy the food at Tidewater Grill. If you are in your boat, Tidewater has its own docks for a convenient stop.

We never miss a trip to Backfin Blues Creole de Graw for its unique, Chesapeake twist on French creole cooking. It’s a long name, and a bit of a hike up to Union Street, but well worth the effort. Try the Gumbo Ya-Ya or the Etoufée.

And we know this doesn’t sound like a restaurant, but we have to recommend The Vineyard Wine Bar on Washington Street. Sure, it has great wine, but it also has very good, impeccably fresh, and highly inventive food for lunch or dinner.

Where else could you find Wild Boar and Risotto and Potato-Crusted Rockfish with Blood-Orange Supremes?

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ROCK HALL Where watermen are the stars—and pirates, seafood and boats the supporting players WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO

T TRAVEL ................30

LODGING ............32

SIGHTS ................34

DINING ................36

his tiny town of fewer than 1,500 people has an influence far beyond its size.

Or its location. For the land-based population, Rock Hall is undeniably out of the way—lying, in fact, at the end of the road. Yet each year, it attracts legions of land-based visitors from across the mid-Atlantic and boat-based visitors from well beyond. Why? Let us count the reasons: First, Rock Hall, which has been around since 1706, continues to celebrate the Chesapeake Bay’s iconic watermen, who still mine area waters for delicious crab, succulent oysters, and all the other local products justly venerated at dinner tables throughout the world. Second, Rock Hall offers visitors some of the finest sailing, cruising, paddling, and trailer-boating waters anywhere. In keeping with that, the town has some of the most sophisticated marinas on the Chesapeake, many of which also offer charming accommodations on land. Finally, Rock Hall really knows how to throw a party! Just ask the thousands who attend its festivals, like the Pirates and Wenches Fantasy Weekend in August (cancelled this year), the Fourth of July party and the Fall Fest. Third, although Rock Hall is at the end of the road, it is still an easy drive from metropolitan centers such as Washington D.C., Baltimore and Philadelphia. And for boaters it’s not at the end of the road at all, but right in the center of things, an easy trip across the Bay.

u Waterman Statue at Rock Hall Harbor

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WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO FIND Now you know why people flock to Rock Hall, let’s take a quick look at how it’s laid out. The town, especially from a boater’s perspective, is divided into two distinct sections: Rock Hall Harbor and Swan Creek. Both have good marinas, good places to eat, and good places to find accommodations.

How do you decide which to choose? If you are on a boat in unsettled weather, Swan Creek offers more protection. If you want to be within walking distance of the Waterman’s Crab House or have a front-row seat for the Pirate and Wenches’ Fantasy Weekend invasion, Rock Hall Harbor will be your choice. The good news is that whichever you choose, the other is easily accessible by trolley, which generally runs on weekends during the boating season. This pandemic year, of course, may be an exception. But bicycles are always an excellent option for getting around and for visiting Rock Hall’s charming downtown, which lies a few blocks away, centered along Main Street between Chesapeake Avenue and Rock Hall Avenue. Follow Rock Hall Avenue east to access everything on Swan Creek.

HOW TO GET THERE This is one of those many occasions on the Chesapeake, when getting there is considerably shorter by boat than by car. A trip from Baltimore’s Middle River, for example, is a mere dozen nautical miles, a trip that could be made in a modestly sized craft in settled weather in no time at all. If you don’t want to stay on the boat, simply reserve a room or cottage at one of the marinas and you have a quick and easy weekend getaway in your family runabout. For those farther south on the Bay, Rock Hall is located 10 miles north of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, just north of the Chester River.

If you are arriving by boat

u Rock Hall Harbor

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Whether you are headed to Rock Hall Harbor or Swan Creek, find green “1” north of Love Point. This will take you to either the harbor or Swan Creek beyond. If you are coming across the Bay, be sure to avoid the Swan Creek Bar, going all the way south to “1” if you have a deep-draft vessel. If the harbor is your destination, enter the harbor breakwater then follow the marked channel either to port or starboard to reach the marinas that line the shore.

Whichever way you go, just be sure to stay in the channel to avoid the large shoal due west of the breakwater. If you follow the harbor around counterclockwise, you’ll find North Point Marina, Harbor Shack Restaurant, Bayside Landing Park— with its boat ramp and free town dock, Rock Hall Marine Railway, and Rock Hall Landing Marina. This is followed by the Sharp Street boat ramp, the famous Waterman’s Crab House, Black Duck Inn, and finally, Haven Harbour South (the former Sailing Emporium). Whew, and that’s just Rock Hall Harbor.

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The entrance to Swan Creek lies just north of the harbor. Once inside, follow the markers carefully until you reach your chosen marina. We’ll get to the specifics a little later, but you’ll come to them in this order: Gratitude Marina, then around the tip of Deep Landing, Swan Creek Marina. In the area beyond, which is called The Haven, you’ll find Osprey Inn & Marina and Haven Harbour Marina and then finally Spring Cove Marina.

There are many big cities that have a lot fewer marinas than Rock Hall. And these are all nice marinas!

If you are arriving by car Driving the route is easy too, it just takes a bit longer. After your trip across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, simply follow the signs to Chestertown and then to Rock Hall. It’s about 50 miles from the eastern end of the bridge.

If you are trailering your boat, you have several options for launching close to Rock Hall, including the two we mentioned above, Sharp Street Public Landing and Bayside Landing Park Boat Ramp, both in Rock Hall Harbor. You’ll need to pick up a county permit first—kentcounty.com/recreation/boating/landings.

WHERE TO STAY From the list we’ve just given you in the What to Expect section, you will have guessed that if you are arriving by boat, the choice is going to be difficult. The options are good for staying ashore as well.

Marinas

u Osprey Inn & Marina

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There are just too many fine marinas in Rock Hall for us to go into them in detail.

With that understood we will mention a few here, but that doesn’t mean that the others we’ve listed aren’t terrific as well.

In Rock Hall Harbor, our choices, if forced to decide, would be North Point because it’s friendly, convenient, near the Harbor Shack and has fuel; Rock Hall Landing because it’s handy to Waterman’s as well as downtown shops; and Haven Harbour South, which has enjoyed lots of upgrades since its purchase by Haven Harbour, including a sand beach with actual palm trees. And it still has the same great staff.

On Swan Creek, we’ve stayed at them all, and always have a hard time choosing among them. With that in mind, we recommend Gratitude for its service and facilities as well as location “at the end of the road,” as they put it; Swan Creek Marina particularly for family-style approach and its economical mooring balls; Osprey Inn & Marina because of its lovely floating docks, it’s graceful grounds and well-appointed inn and restaurant, and well, just because we like it; and finally Haven Harbour, where we’ve spent holidays and quiet weekdays catching up with friends, we choose for the professionalism of its staff, its well-stocked ship’s store, and for its well-regarded ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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POINTS OF INTEREST

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Chester River Kayaks

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Shardana Sailing Charters

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Haven Bareboat Charters

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Blue Crab Charters

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5657 S Hawthorne Ave

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Rock Hall Mine Railroad

Off Bayside Avenue

5676 S Hawthorne Ave

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Sharp Street Public Landing

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Waterman’s Museum

ACCOMMODATIONS

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Black Duck Inn

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Mariner’s Motel

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North Point Marina Motel

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Osprey Point Inn

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Inn & Manor House at Haven Harbour

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Spring Cove Manor

20196 Chesapeake Ave 5681 S Hawthorne Ave 5639 Walnut St

20786 Rock Hall Ave 20950 Rock Hall Ave

21060 Spring Cove Rd

DINING

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Harbor Shack Restaurant

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Watermen’s Crab House

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Dockside Café

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Muscrat Alley Café

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Java Rock

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Ford’s Seafood

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Osprey Point Restaurant

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Passages Bar & Grill at Haven Harbour

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Get the Scoop

20895 Bayside Ave 21055 W Sharp St

21097 Chesapeake Ave 5877 Coleman Rd 21309 E Sharp St 21459 Rock Hall Ave 20786 Rock Hall Ave 20832 Rock Hall Ave

21267 Rock Hall Ave #104

20880 Rock Hall Ave

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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work yard. Spring Cove Marina we love as well, though it doesn’t take transients.

It is, however, a great place to charter a boat.

Inns Rock Hall is rich not only in fine marinas, but also in its charming inns, most of which are in fact located within marinas. We’ll break things up again by location.

On Rock Hall Harbor, our very favorite choice would be the Black Duck Inn, where you can have free docking when you stay in the inn. It is also located conveniently near the boat ramps if you are trailering in. The Black Duck Inn’s Dockside Café was still closed for the pandemic when we went to press, but we certainly hope it will be reopened by the time you read this. Also along the harbor, you’ll find Mariner’s Motel at Rock Hall Landing Marina and the North Point Marina Motel, both very pleasant.

On Swan Creek, we’d recommend the Osprey Point Inn, which we mentioned earlier, and the Inn and the Manor House at Haven Harbour Marina, as well as Spring Cove Manor at Spring Cove Marina. You’ll want to check with all of these, as well as downtown Rock Hall’s several inns, to be sure they have reopened.

WHAT TO DO Rock Hall is a waterman’s town through and through, and—except for all of us who come to look, stroll, eat, and enjoy its annual festivals—it retains the look and feel of a town dedicated to harvesting the riches of the Bay. So, think of that as you hop on the trolley or pedal your bicycle through town. If you get an opportunity, stop by the old fishing ark that sits at Main and Rock Hall Road or visit the model in the Waterman’s Museum. Arks were once used as little cottages for watermen when they needed to concentrate their efforts in a certain area too far away from home to return each night. They would drag the ark behind their workboat and then park it up a handy creek. This of course was before they could rev up the diesel or outboard and zip home in no time at all, as they do now. The Watermen’s Museum is located at Haven Harbour Marina on Rock Hall Road.

Naturally, one of the most important jobs that you’ll have while visiting Rock Hall is to enjoy the watermen’s harvest of the Bay’s riches. You can do this either by stopping at a seafood shop like Ford’s or by enjoying local seafood at one of Rock Hall’s restaurants. So put that on your list of things to do. We’ll get to a few more details in the next section.

While we’re on the subject of seafood, though, we should suggest that you may want to do some harvesting of your own. Rock Hall has plenty of ways to do it, including charter fishing boats. You can always use your own boat too, whether you are trailering it or cruising over on it. A stop at Hook, Line & Sinker Tackle Shop will get you set up nicely. More boat supplies can be found at the marina ship’s stores as well as West Marine and the Rock Hall Marine Railway.

If paddling or sailing is more your style, Chester River Kayaks is a good place to start. We suggest you make the short trip to the Eastern Shore Wildlife Refuge, where you can launch your own or rent a kayak to explore this extraordinary marine landscape. Want to charter a sailboat? You can do that at Spring Harbor Marina, Shardana captained charters at Osprey Point, Haven Bareboat Charters, or Blue Crab Charters, where cruises leave from Sharpe Street Pier.

But there’s more to Rock Hall than seafood and water sports. Take the trolley or a bicycle into town and visit the town’s numerous galleries, as well as crafts and antiques shops.

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That might be a tiny exaggeration, but the self-confessed boating novice ran his 22-foot Sea Ray Sundeck aground three times last season. At least twice, they had to call a tow boat and each time they waited about an hour.

So much for a fun day in the sun.

“We tried using the channel markers, but they can be off,” said Pernal, whose wife discovered Argo and downloaded it to their phone. “This is our first year using the Argo app, and it makes me look a lot smarter. I look like a champion.”

With Argo’s guidance on water depth, Pernal says he can avoid “skinny” water in the channel. The app helps him find recommendations on where to explore and the best places to throw anchor.

Argo is like having a First Mate in your pocket. The app comes with maps, routing function, captain’s log and a social feed, as well as real time reports from other boaters. Pernal can set a destination in Argo and the app will suggest the shortest route based on his boat’s draft. Argo will estimate his time of arrival and Pernal can also save his journeys on Argo to share photos and comments with his friends and family.

“It’s very easy to use,” Pernal said. “It’s free. You can see where people have gone. You can let people know if there’s an obstruction on the way. We like the way that Argo is building a community.”

For Pernal, who has seen his family’s summer plans vanish in the midst of the Coronavirus pandemic, Argo makes his whole family feel safer sharing time on the water.

“My 12-year-old son is comfortable with the app,” Pernal said. “He’s taken a safe boater’s course, but he feels competent enough with the app that he’ll drive us through some of the channels. It’s been a real lifesaver.”

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ROCK H A L L

We mentioned this earlier, but this is a good place to remind you to consider a visit to coincide with one Rock Hall’s famous annual festivals. The Pirates and Wenches Fantasy Weekend takes place in August (though not in 2020) and we hope the Fourth of July Fireworks party and Waterman’s Day will be back next summer.

WHERE TO EAT Breakfast and Lunch We love both Java Rock coffeehouse and Muskrat Alley Café. At Java Rock, we have trouble getting beyond the Gratitude Panini, which is a happy combination of roasted papers, artichoke hearts and pesto. At Muskrat, we usually opt for Mylita’s Quiche, which has crab and shrimp. Muskrat is open on weekends (including Fridays) and Java is open all week.

Lunch and Dinner For lunch or dinner, don’t miss Ford’s Seafood, where you can pick up already cooked crab cakes (and other seafood) or you can take them back to the boat to grill them yourself. Either way, they are delicious! And be sure to stop by Chester River Seafood for local crabs and fish. For a special lunch or dinner, be sure to stop by Osprey Point Restaurant. And you may already have made plans to eat lunch or dinner at the well-known Watermen’s Crab House or the very popular Harbor Shack, both located on Rock Hall Harbor? Yes, more fresh seafood to enjoy! And both have dockage while you dine.

Neither fan-favorite Wheelhouse Restaurant & Inn nor Bay Wolf Restaurant had reopened by press time, but we are confident that they will both be back serving great food soon.

Now, is everyone ready for ice cream? Check out Get the Scoop on Rock Hall Avenue. We are partial to the Minty Moo and the MD Madness and the peanut butter cookies.

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WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO TRAVEL ................40

LODGING ............42

SIGHTS ................44

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erring Bay looks on the map like a giant thumbprint pressed into the Western Shore of the Bay along the otherwise long and featureless stretch between the West and the Patuxent rivers. This welcoming indentation, with its fertile land and easy access to the rich fishing grounds of the Bay, have made it attractive from the earliest colonial days. You won’t find many traces of those days left. But once there was a town of Herrington, and during the War of 1812, there was a fortification on Town Point at the mouth of Rockhold Creek on the north end of Herring Bay. Here, a determined American lieutenant fired a lone cannon at a large party of British marines heading for shore. The cannon fire did no harm, but it did annoy the soldiers, who immediately swarmed ashore. The desperate lieutenant lit off another round, but the cannon slid off its mount and onto his foot. As his four fellow soldiers fled the scene, the unfortunate lieutenant

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hobbled painfully along behind them. The British set fire to a tobacco barn and left. The lieutenant was fine. And that is the story of Herring Bay’s part in the War of 1812.

Okay, that was a little off the point, but we like the story, especially since that section of Rockhold Creek is now home to Herrington Harbor North, one-half of one of the largest and most luxurious marinas on the Bay and home to the Bay’s largest collection of skilled marine contractors. Herrington North even has its own West Marine. The other half of Herrington Harbor, by the way, is located at the bottom end of Herring Bay. Today, Rockhold Creek is lined with marinas, large and small, fancy and downhome, along with a couple of very popular dock bars and a large fleet of charter fishing boats, many of which cleverly make their home at one of those very popular dock bars.

So why are we sure you’ll want to visit Herring Bay and the little town of Deale? Because you can fish some of the Bay’s best waters, either on your own boat or with one of the charters. You can spend the weekend relaxing at one of Herring Bay’s marinas, The Inn at Herrington Harbour (South) or Hidden Harbor’s Anchored Inn, and sampling seafood and meeting a whole new set of soon-to-be friends. Or as Shipwright Harbor’s Jed Dickman modestly puts it, “It’s a wonderful, ideally located spot, where you can find everything you could possibly want.”

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO FIND Now, let’s get the lay of the land. We’ll start at the south end of Herring Bay, which is occupied by Herrington Harbor South, tucked neatly within its own basin. If Herrington North (the one we mentioned that lies near the old Town Point) is all about mixing work and play, then Herrington South is all about play. It has its own very special restaurant (more about this later), its own hotel, swimming pool, and beach. And of course, its own marina and fuel dock. It’s a whole resort in one neat package. This is the kind of place where people come to get married.

On the the north end of Herring Bay—about two and a half miles away—the action centers on Rockhold Creek. Here, as we mentioned earlier, lies Herrington Harbor North (logically), as well as a fistful of other marinas, like Shipwright, Paradise, Rockhold Creek and others that we’ll get to as we go along. Here too are those popular dock bars and, beyond the first bridge, a couple more marinas for smaller boats and the town of Deale. During the boating season, a water taxi neatly connects the two ends.

HOW TO GET THERE Herring Bay is the location of choice for boaters who live in the Washington D.C. area. For them, this is often the most convenient spot, about an hour, on a good day, from downtown. It takes about the same amount of time driving down from Baltimore and about two hours if you’re driving up from Richmond. Once you get there, you are smack in the middle of the Bay, which means easy trips to Eastern Bay and St. Michaels as well as the Choptank River and Oxford or Cambridge. And of course, all those lovely fishing grounds will be right there. Annapolis is about 15 miles north and Solomons about 30 miles south. All of which makes Herring Bay a convenient destination as well as a central starting point.

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If you are coming by boat Once you get to Herring Bay, the most important thing to know if you have a draft more than three or four feet is that there is a long finger of shoal water that extends from the north end of the bay nearly two miles south or within a halfmile of the south end. Yes, there are ways to cross it, but if you don’t know the waters, you are better off playing it safe by following the markers. If you are heading to Herrington South, it doesn’t matter, of course. Nor is it an inconvenience if you are coming up from the south. If you are coming from the north and are aiming for one of the north-end marinas, come down to red “2” and then follow the markers north in deep water.

The channel entrance into Herrington South’s basin is straightforward and deep, but on the other end, the short section of channel from the Rockhold Creek breakwater to markers “8” and “9” is narrow and can be crowded on weekends and shallow in spots to about five or six feet at dead low tide. At markers “12” and “13”, the channel for Herrington North splits to port while the main channel continues north then northeast to reach all the other marinas and the dock bars.

Coming up Rockhold Creek channel, Skipper’s Pier Restaurant and Dock Bar is the first thing you’ll find to starboard. This is quickly followed by Paradise Marina, also to starboard, and then Shipwright Harbor Marina’s extensive docks to port. Family-owned Hansel’s Marina and Sherman’s Marina follow to starboard and then Happy Harbor Restaurant to port. Happy Harbor is the dock bar we mentioned with all those conveniently located charter boats. Under the Deale Road Bridge, which has a vertical clearance of 14 feet, lie Harbour Cove Marina, a popular location for smaller boats with shallower drafts, and finally Hidden Harbour, which is home to the Anchored Inn.

If you are bringing your boat (or not) We’ll let you Google Map your way off the main highways into Deale. As we mentioned it’s a pretty easy drive from Baltimore, Annapolis, and Washington.

When you get ready to splash your boat, you’ll find the sole area boat ramp at Harbour Cove Marina on Rockhold Creek. The Anchored Inn is conveniently nearby. The trip out of the creek and onto the Bay is quick and easy.

If you are bringing a canoe or kayak, you’ll find a number of places to launch, including the beach at Herrington South and other soft-launch locations at most of the marinas on Rockhold Creek. From there, you can explore Herring Bay and Rockhold Creek, which meanders peacefully above the Deale Road Bridge for about two miles. You can also explore adjacent Tracy’s Creek above the S.R. 256 Bridge north of Herrington Harbour North for about a mile.

WHERE TO STAY Marinas If you are looking for an all-inclusive family get-away-from-it-all weekend, you may want to head directly for Herrington Harbour South. Here, you’ll have easy access to the Bay from the comfort of its entirely protected boat basin. There is an excellent restaurant and your own sandy beach and swimming pool a few steps away. You may even decide to get off the boat and stay in the inn. For lighter meals, as well as beer and wine, simply walk across the street to Chesapeake Market & Deli.

On the other hand, if you go to Herrington North, you can have dockage, a pool, work-out room, have some boat-work done, and sample a couple of classic local hangouts in nearby Deale.

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MARINAS

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Herrington Harbor North

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Herrington Harbor South

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Shipwright Harbor Marina

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Paradise Marina

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Hansel’s Marina

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Sherman’s Marina

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Harbour Cove Marina

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Hidden Harbor Marina

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Rockhold Creek Marina

389 Deale Rd

7149 Lake Shore Dr

6047 Herring Bay Rd 6136 Drum Point Rd 6062 Drum Point Rd 611 Deale Road

5910 Vacation Ln 600 Cabana Blvd 453 Deale Rd

POINTS OF INTEREST

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Tracys Creek

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Herring Bay

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Town Point

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Weaver Boat Works 389 Deale Rd

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The Inn at Herrington Harbour (South)

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Anchored Inn

7149 Lake Shore Dr 604 Cabana Blvd

DINING

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Ketch 22

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Chesapeake Market & Deli

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Happy Harbor

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Boathouse Bar and Restaurant

7153 Lake Shore Dr 7150 Lake Shore Dr 533 Deale Rd

604 Cabana Blvd

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Skipper’s Pier Restaurant & Dock Bar

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Then again, if you bear right coming up Rockhold Creek and take a slip at Shipwright Harbor Marina, you can find plenty to make you happy, including dingy or water-taxi access to the local-favorites Skippers Pier and Happy Harbor, a saltwater pool, bikes, and kayaks.

Above the Deale Road Bridge, which has a vertical clearance of 14 feet, you’ll find two more good options, especially if you are trailering your boat in. Harbour Cove Marina has wet and dry slips, a pool, and clubhouse and it’s within walking distance to restaurants and a hardware store. Just beyond, Hidden Harbour Marina offers slips, a playground for kids, the Boathouse Bar for adults, and the popular Anchored Inn for those who prefer to stay ashore. Globally famous Weaver Boats, which builds exquisite, big-game, sportfishing yachts, is located just next door.

Inns If you want to stay ashore and still take advantage of all Herring Bay has to offer, you have two good choices, both of which we’ve mentioned earlier. The first is The Inn at Herrington Harbour South and the second is the Anchored Inn at Hidden Harbour Marina.

WHAT TO DO

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Do you want to relax and get away from it all? Then Herring Bay is a terrific choice. Do you want to get out on the water, either in your own boat or as part of a fishing charter? You could hardly make a better choice. Fishing, sailing, and exploring the backwaters by paddle craft: It’s all here. If you don’t have a paddle craft, you can rent one from Chesapeake Paddle Sports next to Paradise Marina. If you just want a tour of the local creeks, call Twin Creeks Taxi and Capt. Z will appear in his pontoon boat, Solo Cup, to make it happen. Shoot, there may even be a trivia game involved.

It doesn’t matter whether you choose the north or south end of the bay, because you won’t be separated from the other end. Simply call or hop aboard Capt. Z’s water “Tax-Z” (443995-9957), which generally runs Friday and Saturday during the boating season. In Deale itself, you’ll find the Deale Hardware & Home Center, South County Café, and Deale Umai Sushi House.

WHERE TO EAT This is always our favorite part, and here on Herring Bay, we’re particularly enthusiastic about the subject.

Let’s start with two of the Chesapeake’s iconic dock bars, Skipper’s Pier Restaurant & Dock Bar, which, as we mentioned, is the first thing you’ll find on entering Rockhold Creek on the north end of the bay. Owners Dave and Jessica

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D E A L E & H E R R I N G B AY

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Rosage have combined their training in business management and culinary arts to set Skipper’s apart from your average dock-and-dine facility. You can get here on your own boat, on your dinghy, paddle craft, or by water taxi. Oh, yes, and by car.

Deale’s second of four dock bars is the famous Happy Harbor waterfront restaurant, which has been serving local watermen, residents and visitors since 1933. Wow! You can get everything to eat here from fried pickles and steamed clams to a cheeseburger and catfish dinner. All the while, you can enjoy the congenial company and watch the charter boats come and go.

The third and fourth? Dockside Restaurant and Bar at Herrington North and the Boathouse at Hidden Harbour.

And there’s more, whether you stay at Herrington Harbour South or not, you’ll want to make the trip there just to have dinner at Ketch 22 restaurant. Here owners Bobby and Julie Jones oversee an inspired menu of regional food. Bobby is also co-owner of the wildly successful The Point Crab House and Grill on Mill Creek in Arnold MD. The menu at Ketch 22 includes crab gazpacho, braised pork and cabbage, and ricotta pie and berries.

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URBANNA This tiny Rappahannock town is big on charm, restaurants and history. And, oh yes, a simply colossal oyster festival!

WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO

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ach October, approximately 75,000 people troop to the Rappahannock River for the Urbanna Oyster Festival, which recently turned 50. While they are there, they discover this special little town, which surprises with its old-world charm and its 21st century amenities. But you don’t need an oyster festival to find this out for yourself. We suggest that you take the 15-mile trip up the river from the Bay to find out why we believe Urbanna is one of the best destinations on the entire Chesapeake.

We’ve been coming to Urbanna for years, occasionally for the Oyster Festival, but usually when we can have the place to ourselves. We fill up with seafood, smoked meats, and milk shakes (not all at the same time) and then walk off the overindulgence by retracing the town’s 300-year history through its wide variety of architecture. We are sure that you too will fall in love with Urbanna. You can cruise upriver and stay in one of its pleasant marinas or stay at its delightful Chesapeake Inn or elegant Atherston Hall Bed & Breakfast. If you are coming by boat, you can combine your trip to Urbanna with any number of stops along the

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URBANNA

way, The Tides Inn and Irvington across the river, for example, or Deltaville at the river’s mouth. And if you trailer in or bring your canoe or kayak, Urbanna Creek and other nearby tributaries are special places to explore. Urbanna is especially attractive as a weekend adventure if you live in Richmond or Norfolk/Portsmouth.

Urbanna is a delight no matter where you begin.

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO FIND

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We mentioned earlier that Urbanna is easy to get around on foot. Whether you choose the town marina at the entrance to Urbanna Creek or one of the Bridge marinas farther up the creek, you’ll find that you are already in the middle of town. A short stroll from the town marina up the old rolling road from its days as an important tobacco port will take you by the Old Tobacco Warehouse (James Mill Scottish Factor Store), now the Urbanna Museum & Visitor’s Center. From there, walk up Virginia Street for restaurants, shops, and an actual grocery store. Turn left on Cross Street for old Marshall’s Drug Store, which keeps customers happy at its original lunch counter. Continue down Cross Street to Watling Street and you’ll soon arrive at the Bridge Marinas. The Chesapeake Inn is located on Virginia Street, and the Atherston Hall Bed & Breakfast just one block south on Prince George Street.

You can get there from with Cross or Virginia streets.

HOW TO GET THERE If you are coming by boat Here too, it couldn’t be simpler. Go about 15 miles upriver from Stingray or Windmill points at the mouth of the Rappahannock and you’ll find the entrance to Urbanna Creek along the southern shore. You’re there. The Urbanna Town Marina comes first and then, just before the S.R. 227 Bridge, the appropriately named Bridge Marinas.

If you are bringing your boat (or not) Like Deltaville, its neighbor to the south, Urbanna is not exactly on the way to anywhere, a point that we consider an advantage frankly. In any case, you’ll want to find yourself on historic U.S. 17, which traces much of the southern shore of the Rappahannock. From there, follow the signs to Urbanna, usually using S.R. 615 to S.R. 602. You can launch your trailer boat from the town marina’s boat ramp or go up Urbanna Creek a few miles, where you’ll find the Saluda public boat ramp at Oakes Landing. If you want to launch your paddle craft, you can also use the town marina’s facilities or Oakes Landing boat ramp in Saluda.

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URBANNA

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MARINAS

1

Urbanna Town Marina

2

Bridge Marinas

1210 Oyster Rd 15 Watling St

POINTS OF INTEREST

3

Urbanna Creek

4

Old Tobacco Warehouse

5

R.S. Bristow’s Store

S side of Rte. T-1002 200 Virginia St

ACCOMMODATIONS

WHERE TO STAY Marinas We’ve mentioned these, but here they are again. Both are good options. Bridge Marinas are a bit fancier and newer and have a few more options. Both are an easy walk to everything in town.

The first marina up Urbanna Creek is the town marina. Depths are generally about six feet, though the first slips coming are a bit shallower, so go bow in or check with the dockmaster. The docks are aging a bit and have short finger piers, but there is a laundry, restrooms and free bicycles to use. The marina is located in the midst of a popular park.

Bridge Marinas has newly built facilities, renovated existing ones, and some new floating docks. They have also recently added covered slips at the second Bridge Marina, which is the former location of Urbanna Port Marina. The marina has all the usual facilities and has both diesel and ethanol-free gasoline.

6

The Chesapeake Inn

7

Atherston Hall Bed & Breakfast

250 Virginia St

250 Prince George St

DINING

8

Something Different

9

Marshall’s Drug Store

10

Cool Beans

11

Big Oak Café

12

Where the Sidewalk Ends

13

Portside Grill

14

Colonial Pizza

213 Virginia St 50 Cross St 51 Cross St

2761 Old Virginia St 280 Virginia St 25 Cross St

50 Watling St

Inn The Chesapeake Inn is located in the center of town (well, really, what isn’t?) on Virginia Street. It has 13 suites decorated in a different styles and with plenty of good stuff like big TVs, refrigerators, Wi-Fi and so forth. They also offer packages that include a river cruise. How cool is that?

Bed & Breakfast Atherston Hall Bed & Breakfast is (you guessed it) right in the middle of town on Prince George Street. The imposing home was built in 1880 by a schooner captain. It has two lovely parks within its grounds, a big welcoming porch and three guest rooms.

Camping If you have an RV or would like to rent a cottage of your own, Bethpage CampResort is located just north of town. It even includes a water park.

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WHAT TO DO Walk around Urbanna No matter how you choose to visit Urbanna, whether it’s on your own boat or with trailer boat or paddle craft in tow, you’ll want to start your visit with a stroll through the streets of this delightful and charming town. We know that those are hackneyed adjectives, but we also know Urbanna from years of visits and we know that they are no exaggeration. Urbanna is a quiet shady place, with a variety of architecture reflecting its long history. There is even a short walking tour you can download to your phone that will take you past examples of buildings from its pre-Revolutionary days as a tobacco center through its long years as a fishing and shellfish center. Don’t miss R.S. Bristow’s Store, “the home of good goods” since 1876. And whenever you find you need a break, there is always the opportunity for a cold drink or a yummy ice cream just around the corner.

Visit one of the world’s most important maps

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What? Go see an old map? What kind of weekend’s entertainment is that? We hear you, but we believe you’ll find it’s worth the trouble. And, really, it’s hardly any trouble at all. You see, this is a first edition of the Mitchell Map of 1755, a map that has been used over the centuries to help settle wars. First, it was used in the Treaty of Paris in 1783, which as you of course remember, marked the end of the Revolutionary War. Later, France, Spain and Great Britain all used the Mitchell Map to settle various disputes. It was even used in 1980 to settle a fishing boundaries dispute between the U.S. and Canada.

John Mitchell, you see, was an Urbanna landowner before he moved to London and became a cartographer.

He created a map of the eastern portion of what became the United States and included borders, settlements (including Urbanna) and locations of Indian tribes. It was a beautiful map. Urbanna acquired its Mitchell map through one of its banks, thanks to employee Jesse DeBusk, and the contributions of school children and townspeople. It’s a good story, but unfortunately not one we have room for here. So while you are in Urbanna, be sure to visit the map, which is on display at the town museum in the Old Tobacco Warehouse. It’s conveniently located on Virginia Street.

Get out on the water Now that you’re up the Rappahannock River, take advantage of it. If you came on your own boat or pulled it behind you, you’ll find plenty of places within easy reach. For example, the beautiful Corrotoman River just across the Rappahannock has miles of shoreline and half-a-dozen navigable branches, all worth exploring. Pack a picnic lunch and enjoy. Next door to the Corrotoman, you’ll find Carter Creek, home to one of the Bay’s most elegant resorts, The Tides

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Inn. Park at their docks and enjoy a delicious lunch, or stay for the evening and enjoy dinner and perhaps a round of golf.

Bring your kayak, canoe or SUP? You’ll find plenty of nearby creeks ideal for paddle craft. After you’ve paddled Urbanna Creek, head upriver about a mile and try Robinson Creek, with its little branches off of branches. Less than a mile north of that is even longer Lagrange Creek, then Weeks Creek, Parrotts Creek and Mud Creek. You get the idea.

Didn’t bring you own boat? No problem. You can charter a fishing boat through Bridge Marinas or you can catch a ride on a historic buyboat through Golden Age Charters or on a 24-foot pontoon boat through Urbanna Cruises.

Urbanna Oyster Festival We can’t promise that the festival will be on this October 2020, but whenever you do get the opportunity, we suggest you come upriver for a visit. It’s crazy fun!

There are shucking contests, of course, and booths for every variety of oyster and crab dish, as well as entertainments, parades and, well, everything else you can think of.

WHERE TO EAT

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Walking, maps and cruises done, it’s time at last to talk about food. And you’ve come to the right place.

We want to start with Something Different, the weirdest and possibly most delicious restaurant you’ll see. This may be the only restaurant you ever eat at that specializes in “Fine Neanderthal Cuisine.” Yes, it’s all about smoked meats, which of course they do themselves. In fact, they do everything themselves, including make the incredibly delicious ice cream that you will want to have for dessert.

For breakfast, we recommend either Cool Beans or, on the weekends, Big Oak Café (also open for lunch and dinner), although we find ourselves as often as not at Where the Sidewalk Ends on Virginia Street. Delicious baked goods too!

Portside Grill on Urbanna Creek is Urbanna’s only waterside restaurant, and it’s a delight. We know you’ll enjoy the Virginia Street Café, which has great fried oysters. Colonial Pizza is the pizza place in Urbanna, And last but not least, don’t leave town without stopping at Marshall Drug’s lunch counter for a real old-fashioned milk shake. It’s on Cross Street, just around the corner from Bristow’s good goods. See, don’t you love it already?

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BIG Improvements For Boaters

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Today more than 12 million boats cruise and fish in the waters of the United States. Recreational boating is a growing economic activity, and in many ways exceeds that of waterborne commerce. Boating Infrastructure Grant (BIG) funding is available to help marinas meet the increasing demand for transient boater tie-ups and sanitary facilities. The BIG program protects the integrity of our waterways by ensuring that these boaters have places to seek refuge, dispose of waste properly and use onshore facilities instead of discharging into the Virginia waters. For more information on Boating Infrastructure Grant funding, visit http://www.vdh.virginia.gov/Environmental-Health/ MARINA-program/big-program-marinas/pastboating-infrastructure-grant-big-projects/ or call (804) 864-7468.

The town of Urbanna used BIG (Boating Infrastructure Grant) funds to install transient boat slips, bulkheads, a pedestrian walkway,new power pedestals and ADA compliant restroom facilities with showers and laundry.

HAMPTON For history, boating, and good fun, you should put Hampton first on your list.

WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO

E TRAVEL ................60

LODGING ............62

SIGHTS ................64

DINING ................67

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ven in an area as steeped in history as the Chesapeake Bay, Hampton stands a head taller. Here are a few quick examples. Hampton is the oldest continuous English-speaking settlement in the United States. Its prominent point at the entrance to Hampton Roads was given the name Point Comfort (now it’s Old Point Comfort) by the English colonists in 1607, before they sailed up the James to found Jamestown. Hampton was established soon afterward. And soon after that, the first fort was constructed on Point Comfort. It was here, in 1619, that the first enslaved people in North America were brought ashore. And it was here, at Fort Monroe during the Civil War, that three of the enslaved escaped and were given refuge by its commander, who declared them “contraband of war.” Hundreds more followed as the war continued.

On a completely different subject, Hampton was also where the first astronauts were trained.

Okay, we’ll stop with the history lesson and move on to just a few of the many reasons why Hampton makes the perfect Weekends-on-the-Water destination. Here’s a big one: The Hampton River leads right to the city’s doorstep,

u Virginia Air & Space Museum ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

H A M P TON

so coming in by boat is a snap, as is trailering or just driving in with your kayak on the cartop. Hampton has several excellent marinas and one of the friendliest yacht clubs around. It’s also easy to walk around the historic downtown where you’ll find one-of-a-kind restaurants and unusual shops, an excellent air-andspace museum and even a gorgeously restored carousel from the 1920s. We’ll get to all of that and more in just a minute. First let’s get the lay of the land.

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO FIND

u Fort Monroe

Seeing the sights in Old Hampton is about as easy as it can get. And whether you arrive by boat and settle into the Hampton Downtown Public Piers or the Customs House Marina, or stay at Hampton’s waterfront, you will find yourself ideally situated, because the old town, with its pedestrian friendly, shaded streets of restaurants and shops, the imposing Virginia Air & Space Center, and that carousel we mentioned, are all within a few blocks of each other. The Hampton River is short, wide, deep, and welcoming. The main part of old town is located along the waterfront and just north and west of the U.S. 60 bridge. Most of the restaurants as well as an utterly charming stationery store (yes, that’s right) are located along Queens Way. If you opt to stay a little bit downriver at the Hampton Yacht Club, you make the easy walk or bicycle ride up Bridge Street into the old town. Or if you decide on the excellent Bluewater Yachting Center, also down the Hampton River, you can use their water-taxi service.

Across the U.S. 60 bridge, you’ll find Hampton University’s wonderful museum. A little farther afield, but a must-see site on your Hampton visit, is Fort Monroe, which you can visit by car, of course, but also by boat from Old Point Comfort Museum or by anchoring in adjacent Mill Creek, just east of the Hampton River at the entrance to Hampton Roads.

HOW TO GET THERE Hampton lies at the entrance to Hampton Roads, which is one of the principal reasons it has played such an important role in the history of the nation, first as a stop for early English settlers who were worried about attacks from the Spanish, then as a strategic toehold for the Union during the Civil War. Oops, back to history again. But we mention it because it also means that it is easy to reach, especially by boat. But, arriving by car offers no obstacles either. In fact, of the six destinations in this issue, it is the easiest, quickest and most straightforward to reach by land-yacht.

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H A M P TON

If you arrive by boat

MARINAS

If you keep your boat on the Elizabeth River or up the James, you will doubtless have passed the Hampton River dozens of times. If you keep your boat up the Bay, from Poquoson to Deltaville, you’ll find that the Hampton River is an easy cruise away. The same is true if you are in the Maryland portion of the Bay. You’ll just have to plan on a night or two anchored out or in one of the many marinas just off of the main stem of the Bay. Once you reach Hampton Roads, one of the world’s best and busiest natural harbors, you have only to pass by in the watchful shadow Fort Monroe to find the entrance to the Hampton River. It is, in fact, where the Hampton Roads Tunnel makes its dive underwater. From Hampton Roads, the channel is well marked. Just be aware of the shoal that sits just offshore of the entrance. Follow the markers, and you won’t even notice it.

As you come up the Hampton River, you’ll find Bluewater Yachting Center along the junction with Sunset Creek, followed quickly afterwards by Hampton Yacht Club. Both of these are to port, while handsome Hampton University lies along the starboard shore. With the U.S. 60 bridge ahead, you’ll find Customs House Marina and then Hampton Public Piers to port and a small anchorage to starboard. That’s it, you’re in Hampton.

1

Bluewater Yachting Center

2

Hampton Yacht Club

3

Hampton Public Piers

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Customs House Marina

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Old Point Comfort Marina

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Hampton Marina Hotel

If you arrive by car If you are driving from Norfolk or Portsmouth, we don’t need to tell you the way to Hampton. If you are coming down from anywhere to the north, from Richmond to Baltimore, you’ll leave I-95 (or I-295) at I-64 for the drive down to Newport News and then Hampton. You’ll probably want to get off at LaSalle south to Settlers Landing Road east into the old town, but really that’s what Google Maps is for, isn’t it?

If you want to launch your boat, the only public ramp directly onto the Hampton River is on Sunset Creek upstream from Bluewater Yachting. The next two handiest ramps are off Back Creek to the north. Gosnold’s Hope Park’s ramps are on the Southwest Branch and Fox Hill-Dandy ramps are at Dandy Point near Belle Isle and Dandy Point marinas. From there, you’ll need to come out Back River and turn south to enter Hampton Roads and then Hampton River, about a 10- to 15-mile trip.

Launching a kayak or other paddle craft can be done conveniently from Mill Point Park, just under the U.S. 60 bridge, or a bit farther upriver at the River Street Park Canoe and Kayak Launch. The Hampton River, with its tiny tributaries, is a perfectly lovely and protected bit of water to paddle. You can also launch easily to explore the Fort Monroe area. No matter what size boat you are using, you can get quite close to the Fort Monroe bulkhead. It makes a great view.

WHERE TO STAY

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4707 Victoria Blvd

710 Settlers Landing Rd 710 Settlers Landing Rd 100 McNair Dr Building 207 700 Settlers Landing Rd

POINTS OF INTEREST

7

Hampton River

8

Mill Point Park

9

River Street Park Paddle Launch

10

St. John’s Church

11

Hampton University Museum

12

Virginia Air & Space Museum

13

Hampton Carousel

14

Miss Hampton River Cruise

15

Casemate Museum

16

Hampton Museum

100 Eaton St River St

100 W Queens Way 14 Frissell Ave

600 Settlers Landing Rd 602 Settlers Landing Rd 710 Settlers Landing Rd 20 Bernard Rd

120 Old Hampton Ln

DINING

17

Surfrider Restaurant

18

Deadrise Restaurant

19

Glazed Doughnuts

20

Goody’s Deli & Pub

21

Venture Kitchen & Bar

22

Brown Chicken, Brown Cow

23

Latitude 37

24

Grey Goose

Marinas Bluewater Yachting Center lies one mile upriver, at the intersection of Sunset Creek. You can’t miss it. This is a lovely marina, with friendly and efficient staff, extensive boat repair services, boat sales, and its very own Surfrider Restaurant— and if you’ve spent time in the southern Bay, you are probably already a fan. The marina also runs a water taxi into town.

Just upriver lie the docks of Hampton Yacht Club, which organizes a wellknown series of races and regattas each year.

Then comes the Customs House Marina with docks right in front of the carousel and next door to the Virginia Air & Space Museum. The slips are easy to

15 Marina Rd

1 Marina Rd

100 McNair Dr 24 Wine St

11 E Queens Way 9 E Queens Way

13 E Queens Way

700 Settlers Landing Rd 118 Old Hampton Ln ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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get in and out of, though mind the current, which, while not particularly strong, can provide a mild surprise to the unwary. The same is true of the Hampton Public Piers located just before the U.S. 60 bridge.

Hampton Public Piers is the city marina, and it has nice floating docks along its bulkhead. The shower and restroom facilities are located in the visitor’s center just up the ramp. Also up the ramp, we might add, is a friendly brew-pub which makes a delightful stop on the way back to the boat after a day of sightseeing. The docks also connect under the bridge to Mill Point Park, which is a good spot for dog-walking and, as we mentioned, launching a canoe or kayak. There is also a dog park next to the carousel.

Hotel There is one downtown hotel, and it’s a nice one—Hampton Marina Hotel— located right on the waterfront between Customs House and Public Piers. It has a pool and restaurant and, located on Settlers Landing Road, is easy to get into and out of.

WHAT TO DO We’ve already given you a bunch of hints on what to do and see while you’re in Hampton, but in case you’ve forgotten already, here’s a quick rundown.

Stroll around town We know, we often start with this one, but it’s important to get the lay of the land, so to speak. We described the way in by water and interstate, but now that you’re here, you’ll want to enjoy the old town’s fascinating architecture, particularly Queens Way, from Mill Point Park abutting the river to old St. John’s Church just before you get to Franklin Street. Here, along this quiet centuries-old street, you find the heart of old Hampton. You will also find most of old Hampton’s bars and restaurants. But we’ll get back to that. We recommend that you wander through St. John’s grounds, particularly its old cemetery. The parish of St. John’s was established in 1610, though its location here dates only from 1728—still a respectably long time. The church itself includes a lot of firsts, but we’ll spare you those to discover on your own. We’ll just mention that the building includes the 1887 Pocahontas window, which was given, in part, by Native American students at what is now Hampton University, the first school in the country to admit Native Americans. Of course, you’ll also want to stroll along Old Hampton Lane, which curves around to intersect Settlers Landing Road. Stay on Hampton Lane and you’ll be on Bridge Street, which will take you past the working seafood plant, L.D. Amory & Co., and, across Salters Creek, the Victoria Boulevard Historic District, a fascinating residential area. If you cross Settlers Road, on the other hand, you’ll find the Virginia Air & Space Museum and the carousel as well as the downtown marinas.

Virginia Air & Space Museum This is a must-see stop on your Hampton visit. The all-glass building is striking indeed, whether you are outside looking in or vice versa. Inside, though, you’ll find early aircraft, early space technology, and an IMAX theater with a wide range of choices. Here too you’ll find the welcome center for the NASA Langley Research Center and Langley Air Force Base.

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El Diablo Loco Cantina & Tequila Bar 6 E. Mellen St. Hampton, VA 757.506.8779

Kismet Bistro 99 Main St. Newport News, VA 757.327.0716

A quirky, intimate cantina located in the heart of beautiful downtown Phoebus. El Diablo was inspired by the fresh, rustic street fare of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula. EDL is a local favorite and year round destination that features 70+ brands of tequila.

A cozy Newport News bistro located in the heart of historic Hilton Village.

Kismet serves up a wide range of thoughtful cuisine, from hand-tossed pizzas &craft burgers to meticulous center plate entrees. All served up in a lovely environment by a gracious & knowledgeable staff.

A respectful homage to the humble Oyster Bar...

We source our oysters from growers throughout the Chesapeake Bay watershed and recycle all shells. Fuller’s features a plethora of fresh seafood along with a creative selection of appetizers, sandwiches and center-plate entrees served up in a bright and airy environment.

Located a block from El Diablo Loco.

A waterfront restaurant located at Old Point Comfort Marina on historic Fort Monroe. Fresh, locally sourced seafood, minimally processed and simply prepared. Tiered outdoor decks, cozy dining room and a full service bar provide a spectacular waterfront venue overlooking Hampton Roads. Slips available while dining or for take-out.

Fuller’s Raw Bar 38 E. Mellen St. Hampton, VA 757.251.6497 The Deadrise 100 McNair Dr. Hampton, VA 757.788.7190

H A M P TON

Hampton Carousel

u Hampton Carousel

You are going to love this! Between the Air & Space Museum and the downtown marinas, you’ll find this charming, beautifully restored, gloriously detailed, perfectly executed carousel built in 1920. The mirrors and paintings at its center are original. The carousel is part of the Hampton History Museum.

You’ll find its main building nearby on Queens Way.

Miss Hampton Harbor Cruise Whether you arrived by boat or car, you will want to climb aboard the Miss Hampton for a cruise out of the Hampton River and into Hampton Roads to get a good look at Fort Monroe and its sister fort, Fort Wool, which never got got used. We promise you’ll learn something new.

Fort Monroe Whether you take your boat, your dinghy or your car, don’t miss Fort Monroe. If you’ve trailered in, this makes a great excursion. We like to take the boat into Old Point Comfort Marina so we can spend the day, eat at the Deadrise Restaurant, which sits above the marina office, and spend the night. If you arrive by boat, you simply cross McNair Drive and walk through the grounds, across the boat and into the fort proper. Be sure to take a walk along the ramparts (we think they are called ramparts) as well as the grounds itself. See where Confederate President Jefferson Davis was briefly imprisoned after the war. See where young Robert E. Lee helped in planning the fort’s construction. Then, if they have reopened after the pandemic closures, be sure to treat yourself to the Casemate Museum and the new visitor center.

Shops Hampton’s old downtown is stronger on restaurants than shops, but there are a few we want to mention. You’ll want to visit the Virginia Store and Best of British, both in the same block of Settlers Landing between Old Hampton Lane and History Museum Way. On Queen Street you’ll find a few antique shops, like Mint Julep and Salvage Boyz. Then, be sure to cross Queen Street and walk into Hampton Stationery. It’s just about our favorite stop in Hampton, and once you see it, you’ll know why. The shop was started in 1932 in a former photo studio belonging to Happy Cheyne. The Cheyne Building was constructed in 1890. The stationery shop was purchased in 1957 by the Ishon family and is now owned by John Cabot Ishon. If you’re lucky, he’ll be there to show you around. Aside from all that, you’ll find lovely pens, stationery, leather bags, office furniture, which, yes, you probably are not in the market for right now, and even some Gill boating jackets and bags.

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H A M P TON

Hampton University Take a walk (or drive) across the U.S. 60 bridge and into the beautiful broad grounds of Hampton University, founded after the Civil War as an educational center for the area’s formerly enslaved people. We particularly recommend a visit to the Emancipation Oak on the northern edge of the campus and the Hampton University Museum, where you can add to our list of Hampton firsts. Founded in 1868, it is Virginia’s oldest museum, the nation’s oldest African-American museum and contains an extraordinary collection of art from all cultures, but particularly African American.

Events Hampton always draws a crowd for its two big annual events, the Blackbeard Pirate Festival in late May and the Hampton Jazz Festival in late June.

WHERE TO EAT Breakfast We are not recommending this nutritionally, of course, but your taste buds will thank us for mentioning Glazed Doughnuts, which is a block north of Queens Street on Wine Street. Another and potentially healthier breakfast option is Mango Mangeaux in the Phoebus neighborhood—open for lunch and dinner.

Everything else Oh, how can we decide what to recommend when there are so many choices?

We’ll just rattle off a few and let you decide for yourselves.

On Queens Way, we love to stop for a Reuben sandwich at Goody’s Deli & Pub, an absolute Hampton mainstay, and at Venture Kitchen & Bar for pizza, although we sometimes get tempted away for the tapas. Who could resist Brown Chicken Brown Cow, if only for the great name? But have a seat on the patio (dog friendly) and order a grass-fed happy-cow big burger and a cold local draft. You’ll be happy too.

Then there’s Latitude 37 and Grey Goose . . . oh, gosh, there are so many, and they’re all good.

At Fort Monroe, be sure to eat at the Deadrise, especially for its fresh local fish and produce as well as fun twists to old favorites. Owner Joe Illes, who has two other Hampton restaurants, Fuller’s Raw Bar, and El Diablo Loco Cantina, opened Deadrise a couple of years ago. We love it!

Finally, we mentioned that Bluewater Yachts has its own Surf Rider restaurant. Owner Stanley Bennett just keeps customers coming in droves to his Surf Rider restaurants, and the Bluewater location is no exception.

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CAPE CHARLES Here’s proof that you can’t keep a good town down.

Welcome to the new Cape Charles!

WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO

C TRAVEL ................70

LODGING ............72

SIGHTS ................74

DINING ................76

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ape Charles and its one thousand inhabitants sit at one of the most exciting locations on the Chesapeake Bay—we’d go farther, but right now the Chesapeake is all we care about exploring, so we’ll leave it at that. If you were paying attention in history class, you might think its location was even more alluring in the 1880s, when the railroad finally came south from its terminus in Pocomoke, Md., and ended instead at Cape Charles Harbor, where people and goods were loaded aboard ferries and barges for the 36-mile trip to Norfolk, where the railroad picks up again. Or vice versa, of course.

We bring up the railroad because if it weren’t for that, there would very likely not be any town of Cape Charles. We’ll get back to that in a minute.

The completion of the Bay Bridge-Tunnel in 1964 threw a spanner in the engine of economic prosperity, so it has taken this little town at the end of the road a long time and a few false starts to come back. But here’s the important part: It’s back in a big way.

It’s still a charming village full of historic homes with a tossed salad of architectural styles. And yes, life in town still centers on the old main street (Mason Ave.) and surrounding area with its one-of-a-kind hardware store, two

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Cape Charles Town Harbor

Visit Cape Charles

and you may just fall in love!

• Protected basin steps from town • Modern bath house and showers • On-site restaurant, The Shanty • 96 deep-water slips to 170’ • Fuel dock, non-ethanol & diesel • Free public boat launch

(757) 331-2357 I CapeCharlesHarbor.com

CAPE CHARLES

boutique hotels, excellent bed and breakfasts, pubs, brewery, cider house, fresh seafood restaurant, and perfect pirate pizza.

Cape Charles also has developed a second life outside of the original planned community but still within the town limits. An oyster house, two world-class golf courses, nature trails and more.

And we haven’t even gotten to its most dazzling feature: a long, beautiful sparkling white sand beach! Yes, we’re pretty excited about Cape Charles.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND WHEN YOU GET HERE

u The old Eastern Shore Railroad

When you explore the section of town lying from the main street north, you’ll notice that the east-west streets are named for well-known Virginians, while the north-south streets are named for fruits. Sadly, the blocks nearest the beach were built later on filled land and have non-fruity-or-famous-Virginian names like Harbor and Bay Avenue. In any case, most of the businesses we’ll be talking about are located along Mason Avenue.

Directly south of Mason lies a no-man’s land created by the old railroad tracks that end in a muddle of disuse at the harbor. Beyond that lies the very tidy city marina with its delicious Shanty restaurant, a good public boat ramp, workboat docks, and the Cape Charles Yachting Center.

To finish up our quick tour, the Cape Charles Natural Area and the two Bay Creek golf courses lie to the south of the harbor, while the Oyster Farm Marina, Oyster Farm Seafood Eatery, and other allurements lie north of the old part of town along Kings Creek. Now that we have the lay of the land, let’s look at just some of the things there are to see and do in Cape Charles.

HOW TO GET HERE If you are arriving by boat Cape Charles is a fairly short hop across the mouth of the Chesapeake from Norfolk, Portsmouth and Hampton, about 25 nm or so, depending on your starting point. It’s easy to spot as you come across because of the several dozen cargo ships likely to be waiting in the Cape Charles anchorage a couple of miles off its entrance.

You can access the Cherrystone Channel into the harbor from the shallower end (least depth 13 feet) at red “2C” or 3 nm farther north at green “1CC”. From either point, the channel is wide, deep, and well-marked all the way to the harbor entrance between the jetty and the cement plant. Cape Charles Town Harbor’s docks are straight ahead, with the boat ramps, fuel docks, workboat docks and then Cape Charles Yacht Center at the far end.

Coming down the Bay, you’ll want to enter Cape Charles channel at green “1CC”.

If you are headed for the Oyster Farm Marina, continue 1 nm past the harbor entrance and look for Kings Creek’s private markers. You will find that the channel is prone to shift, so you’ll want to call the dockmaster for advice before you arrive. If you are still uncertain, the marina may offer to send out a boat to guide you in. You are not allowed to anchor inside Cape Charles Harbor.

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CAPE CHARLES

If you are trailering your boat in Arriving from the south, you will naturally come to the Eastern Shore by way of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. Then follow U.S. 13 north to S.R. 184 (Randolph Avenue). A left turn here will take you into town. Arriving from the north, you’ll be on U.S. 13 and, of course, make a right turn onto Randolph. You’ll find the boat ramps at the harbor between the town docks and the fuel dock. You can access this from Marina Road.

If you are launching a paddle-craft You have several options for launching your kayak. You could use the boat ramps, the town beach, or go up to the Oyster Farm docks off Kings Creek. Kings Creek is quite protected, but the open Bay can be rough, so keep an eye on the weather, winds, and current. There are some wonderful paddling spots in this area of the world, including Kiptopeake and the Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Area.

WHERE TO STAY Marinas

1

Oyster Farm Marina

2

Cape Charles Town Harbor

3

Cape Charles Yacht Center

500 Marina Village Cir 11 Marina Rd

1011 Bayshore Rd

POINTS OF INTEREST

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Cape Charles Fun Pier

5

Watson’s Hardware

6

Rayfield’s Pharmacy

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Central Park

8

Cape Charles Museum

9

Cape Charles Library

21 Bay Ave

225 Mason Ave 2 Fig St

217 Peach St 814 Randolph Ave 201 Mason Ave

ACCOMMODATIONS

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Northampton Hotel

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Hotel Cape Charles

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Sea Gate Bed & Breakfast

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Bay Haven Inn at Cape Charles

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Cape Charles House

15

Alyssa House

16

Fig Street Inn

Here is a delightful option, no matter whether you arrived by car or boat. Cape Charles now has two entirely remodeled, updated, and utterly charming small hotels—the Northampton on Mason Avenue and the Hotel Cape Charles.

The Hotel Cape Charles is located at Strawberry and Mason in the middle of downtown, but with balcony views of the harbor and a very short walk to the beach. The Cape Charles has been a hotel for more than a century, but it is updated in every way.

The Northampton Hotel has announced that it will remain closed until 2021, due to the pandemic, but file it away for future visits. It opened in 2018 after a two-year restoration, and it’s beautifully updated, with a view of the Chesapeake Bay from every room.

17

Oyster Farm Cottages

We’ve touched on these already, but the good news is, they are all great marinas.

If you have a deeper draft vessel, we recommend either Cape Charles Town Harbor or Cape Charles Yacht Center. The Yacht Center was specifically constructed to berth and service super-yacht-sized vessels. If you need service, especially anything that requires hauling your boat, the Yacht Center is your best and only option.

On the other hand, if you are traveling with your kids, we recommend you put in at Oyster Farm Marina where you’ll find a big pool and lots of games.

It also has its own beach. You can rent boats here and arrange for a charter excursion. The Oyster Farm Eatery is fun, and there’s even a dock bar with food.

Here you can also arrange for a golf cart to drive everyone into downtown or rent bicycles.

Boutique hotels

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MARINAS

1 Mason Ave

235 Mason Ave 9 Tazewell Ave

403 Tazewell Ave 645 Tazewell Ave

530 Randolph Ave 711 Tazewell Ave 500 Marina Village Cir

DINING

18

Oyster Farm Seafood Eatery

19

Brown Dog Ice Cream

20

Kelly’s Gingernut Pub

21

Cape Charles Coffee House

Bed & breakfasts

22

The Shanty

In a town this full of fine old Victorian homes, it’s no surprise that owners find the idea of turning them into bed & breakfasts irresistible. There is the handsome Bay Haven Inn of Cape Charles, the international décor of 110-year-old Alyssa House, and finally the antique furnishings and contemporary design of the Fig Street Inn.

23

Deadrise Pies

24

Buskey Cider

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

500 Marina Village Circle 203 Mason Ave 133 Mason Ave 241 Mason Ave 33 Marina Rd 425 Mason Ave 109 Mason Ave

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until 2021, due to the pandemic, but file it away for future visits. It opened in 2018 after a two-year restoration, and it’s beautifully updated, with a view of the Chesapeake Bay from every room.

Bed & breakfasts In a town this full of fine old Victorian homes, it’s no surprise that owners find the idea of turning them into bed & breakfasts irresistible. There is the handsome Bay Haven Inn of Cape Charles, the international décor of 110-year-old Alyssa House, and finally the antique furnishings and contemporary design of the Fig Street Inn.

Cottage rentals Cape Charles is even richer in cottage rentals than B&Bs. For a good list, take a look at the rental listings in the excellent Cape Charles by the Bay’s excellent website—capecharlesbythebay.com.

In addition, you will find colorful and adorable little villas for rent from the Oyster Farm at Kings Creek.

WHAT TO DO Go to the beach Not many Chesapeake destinations can boast a half-milelong white-sand beach with dunes and a fishing pier, but there’s one right in town, an easy walk from the harbor marinas, downtown, the bed-and-breakfasts, and boutique hotels.

You are welcome to fish from the town’s Fun Pier—no license needed—or simply watch the sun set over the Chesapeake Bay.

Browse the downtown shops

u Brown Dog Ice Cream

Cape Charles may be a small town, but it’s home to a wide variety of shops. That means that everyone from big to little and angler to chef will enjoy ambling through Mason Avenue’s wares.

You can get hardware at Watson’s Hardware, but you can also get marine supplies, deck chairs, appliances, games, bicycles, clothes, beach balls, baskets, boots, stuffed animals, toy trucks, and Red Wing shoes. Okay, we’ll stop.

But, really, there’s more.

Stop by Rayfield’s pharmacy for drugstore items and their old-fashioned soda fountain. Then stroll up or down Mason Avenue and the mostlyfruity side streets to sample the goods at Gull Hummock Gourmet Market, Cape Charles Candy Company, Like a Sailor (eccentric) gift shop, Lemontree Gallery, Ellen Moore Gallery, and Drizzles tasting store. Want more? Check out Moonrise Jewelry, Love Letters, Bailey’s Bait & Tackle, and the Boardwalk.

Stroll through the historic district.

Cape Charles has a remarkable collection of architecturally interesting homes, especially Victorians and Greek Revivals. The town’s original grid of Virginia statesmen versus types of fruits is still very much intact, so we recommend that you amble north up Peach, west (left) on Tazewell, then north (right) on Strawberry for

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CAPE CHARLES

a visit to Cape Charles’s lovely Central Park. Then, if you are still game, head east (left) on Monroe to Nectarine, then north to Jefferson. Take Jefferson west (left) to the beach. Finally trek back to town (left) on Bay Avenue, admiring the beachfront Victorians along the way. Once you are back at Mason, well done! Head straight to either Brown Dog for that double-dip ice cream cone or congratulate yourself at nearby Kelly’s Gingernut Pub with a cold and frosty brew.

After that bit of refreshment, stop by the Cape Charles Museum to learn about the town’s fascinating history, then put on your reading glasses and amble over to the Cape Charles Library. It’s a beauty and the oldest on the Eastern Shore of Virginia.

Get out on the water.

Ready for some fishing or paddle-sports? If you didn’t bring your own boat—or you just want to get out on a different kind of boat—it’s easily done. Cape Charles, not surprisingly, has charter boats aplenty. You can get a good line on them by talking with Cape Charles Harbormaster Charlie Farlow—757-331-2357.

To rent a kayak, paddleboard or bicycle, get in touch with Southeast Expeditions, which also organizes some first-rate guided tours in several locations in the area. You can also arrange to rent paddle-craft at Oyster Farm Marina.

Finally, you can just sit back and enjoy the ride if you book a tour with local residents, Capt. David and Anna Lee of Cape Charles Boat Tour Company.

We’ll talk about some of the great places nearby to take your own boat in the side-trip section.

Get out on the golf course and the nature trail.

It’s hard to run out of things to do around Cape Charles. Here are two more.

Pull out your golf clubs and arrange for a ride to Bay Creek Resort’s two top-rated golf courses, one designed by Arnold Palmer and the other Jack Nicklaus.

Both 18-hole courses are beautifully sandwiched between the Chesapeake Bay, the sand dunes and Old Plantation Creek. They are located south of the harbor, as is Bay Creek Resort’s fitness center, which includes pools, work-out rooms, and a splash zone and giant slide for kids. Okay, maybe adults too.

Cape Charles Natural Area Preserve is also located south of the harbor. This is a terrific place to visit during the fall bird migrations. A long boardwalk will take you through the preserve’s various habitats, including beach (though no beach access), dunes, and marine loblolly pine woodland. The woodland area is especially alive with migrating songbirds. To get to the preserve from Cape Charles Harbor, follow Marina Road around the basin to Bayshore Drive, then south to Patrick Henry Avenue. The trail begins behind the kiosk.

WHERE TO EAT You’ve boated, fished, paddled, golfed, bird-watched, shopped and played in the surf. Isn’t it about time you got yourself something to eat? Naturally, like everything else in Cape Charles, there are too many choices for us to share here.

So, we’ve picked out three of our favorites. For a more complete list, dial up that capecharlesbythebay.com website we mentioned earlier and take a look under “Dining.” So, everybody hungry? Let’s go!

Breakfast This is the easy one. We have a first cup of coffee on the boat and then walk over to Cape Charles Coffee House on Mason Avenue. It’s the place with a green

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CAPE CHARLES

awning that looks like a bank—Because it was. (So was Kelly’s Gingernut Pub, which we mentioned earlier. Another great place, but not open for breakfast.)

Because it was a bank and then a clothing store, Cape Charles Coffee House looks terrific. Its coffee is terrific too, and we usually go for café au lait and then order whatever our eyes first light on for breakfast, though the waffles and fruit are a favorite. Cape Charles Coffee opens at 8:00 a.m. and stays open for lunch.

They have sandwiches too.

Lunch Here we start running into trouble, there are so many to choose from. But we are going to be resolute and go for The Shanty, which is located on the docks at Cape Charles Harbor. The fish is fresh and as local as can be. The menu even lists the watermen they buy from. We can’t resist the soft-shell BLT. Or the oyster po’boy.

But then again, who can pass up a crabcake sandwich with pork belly, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickled ginger and siracha aioli? Even the paprika-fried Brussels sprouts are great. The Shanty also manages to concoct surprising original cocktails and serves up a good selection of local beers. There’s wine too, of course. And good iced tea.

Dinner We feel duty bound to pick out a favorite seafood restaurant for dinner too, so save room for the Oyster Farm Seafood Eatery. Like The Shanty (and a number of other Cape Charles restaurants), it features local seafood and local produce, but it also has fish from elsewhere, and great steaks. When we splurge, we share a “Seafood Tower” of oysters, clams and shrimp, lobster poke, and tuna salad.

Of course, the fried oysters and clam-strips with hushpuppies shouldn’t be overlooked either. Nor should the fresh flounder.

Pizza Since we feel that pizza constitutes the fourth meal of the day, we will mention Deadrise Pies, which really is a pizza place, even though it sounds like a yeast that went wrong.

It’s named for the classic watermen’s boats, of course. Our particularly favorite pie is the Arvor, which has prosciutto, pineapple, sun-dried tomato, basil, and onion. They are located on Mason Avenue, of course, and, like much of Cape Charles, closed on Mondays.

u The Avor at Deadrise Pies

Cider, bourbon and beer Here are two more Cape Charles originals and one Cape Charles branch.

Cape Charles Distillery features small-batch bourbon, whiskeys, vodka, and moonshines. Stop by for craft cocktails too. Located on Strawberry Street, just off Mason.

Cape Charles Brewing Company, like the distillery, opened in 2018. The brewery also serves pub-style lunch and dinner. Their production includes Assateague Island and Cobb Island IPAs, several varieties of ale, Smith Island Oyster Stout, a couple of wheat beers, and Ole Reliable lager.

Buskey Cider on the Bay, a cider tasting house for the Richmond-based company. Here you can sample ciders galore, including but by no means limited to tart cherry, maple spiced and habanero mango.

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Friday Severna Park Shopping way to support oyster pop-ups and Aover launching pad for adventure, a safe harbor after a long voyage, and plan eat them the Village; Rosedale The was to fetch partnerships at theIce in a or home away from home, shelter from a storm. weekend.

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Easton Farmer’s Market, weekend.

The minimum Frederick, Glen Burnie my usualof 50 at and Baltimore; Emily’s Produce in orderOn was a bag and the$364,000 Whatever you need dog-walk, I asked my Cambridge.

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three days, we were a vibrant, social neighborhood again, Soon, it will be steamed to sell in under 90 days!

Since you asked: At my house, we immediately shucked a celebrating with the definitive Chesapeake morsel, and persevere and share photos, hot sauce, and well wishes over dozen, added dashes of Woodberry Kitchen’s exquisite Snake cold beer. the fence. joe@chesapeakebaymagazine.com Oil fish-pepper sauce At (snakeoilhotsauce.com), and we Since you asked: my house, we immediately shucked a

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146 Morning Side Dr N, Arapahoe 3 Bed / 4 Bath $749,999 | 4,009 ft2

Tranquil, waterside living at its best! Enjoy a tremendous open floor plan with sight lines from gourmet kitchen through three family living spaces out to an 860 SqFt screened porch with water views of Dawson Creek plus a hot tub that stays with the property. With more than an acre that includes multiple garden spaces, you have a retreat where you can relax and enjoy indoor and outdoor living

22826 Hwy 55, Oriental NC | 252.249.9800

T I D E WAT E R C O U N T RY. C O M

• rentals • classes • lessons • tours at Paradise Marina

6124 Drum Point Road, Deale 443.221.9732 www.chesapeakepaddlesports.com

production by Blaire

Swim Jellyfish Free!

Finally

A Fuel Additive That Really Works

We Can Prove It! DAN LOWERY, DISTRIBUTOR (540)270-0567

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BUY ONLINE

WWW.FORMULAX2MIDATLANTIC.COM

Enjoy a refreshing swim on a hot summer day with no jellyfish stings to ruin the fun.

Launch & retrieve the 8’, 12’, or 20’ diameter Nettle Net in minutes from your boat or dock.

No storage worries. The 12’ pool stores in a bag about the size of a basketball.

Starting at $499.95.

Nettle Net® BOAT POOL® Keeping jellyfish out since 1978.

www.nojellyfish.com • 800.962.9020 88

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

An Average Tow is $750

LET US PICK UP THE TAB

UNLIMITED TOWING $159* Breakdowns happen more often than you’d expect...pay a little now to avoid an expensive bill later. Get a BoatU.S. Unlimited Towing Membership today, for a year of worry-free boating.

GET THE APP – IT’S THE FASTEST WAY TO GET A TOW

JOIN TODAY! BoatUS.com/Towing or 800-395-2628

*One year Saltwater Membership pricing. Details of services provided can be found online at BoatUS.com/Agree. TowBoatU.S. is not a rescue service. In an emergency situation, you must contact the Coast Guard or a government agency immediately.

DOCK DORCHESTER Enjoy scenic waterways, free boat ramps, and dockside dining

Whether you’re on a Chesapeake Bay tour, cruising to a dinner destination or looking to land the big one, there are plenty of choices for docking and launching your favorite watercraft in Dorchester County, Maryland. Explore the Choptank, Little Choptank, Honga and Nanticoke rivers.

Weave our narrow cuts for rockfish, perch and snakehead action. End your day with some dockside dining and revelry.

HEART OF THE CHESAPEAKE

DORCHESTER water moves us

VisitDorchester.org 410.228.1000