Weekends on the Water 2020 by Chesapeake Bay Magazine

SPECIAL

EDITION

2020

HAVRE DE GRACE ROCK HALL DEALE URBANNA HAMPTON CAPE CHARLES

Crusader Yacht Sales Is Now The Annapolis Dealer For Jeanneau Sailboats!

SUN ODYSSEY 349

SUN ODYSSEY 410

SUN ODYSSEY 440

SUN ODYSSEY 490

Open House August 22-23 | Test Sail the Sun Odyssey 349 & 490

CALL TODAY FOR YOUR RESERVATION

jeanneau.com

AVAIL ABLE MODELS SUN FAST 3300 / 3600 SUN ODYSSEY 319 / 349 / 389 / 410 / 440 / 490 JEANNEAU YACHTS 51 / 54 / 64

410-269-0939 www.CrusaderYachts.com

Port Annapolis Marina | 7078 Bembe Beach Road | Annapolis, MD 21403

THE SUV to suit your lifestyle.

Volvo Cars Annapolis has the SUV that is the perfect fit for you. Featuring design, cutting-edge safety features and flawless design. Safety. innovative Convenience. Rugged Sophistication. The V90 Cross Shop online or in-store. Country from Volvo Cars Annapolis.

333 Busch’s Frontage Road • Annapolis, MD 410-349-8800 • VolvoCarsAnnapolis.com

SPONSORED CONTENT

Steamed Blue Crabs seasoned with J.O. No.2 or a custom blend that J.O. manufactured is the flavor people experience at crab establishments all over. Most people credit this crab house seasoning to another product, but J.O. is the crab houses seasoning of choice since 1945. J.O. Spice — started by J.O. Strigle and his wife Dot in Baltimore City in 1945 — is celebrating its 75th Anniversary. A native of Tangier Island, Va., J.O. Strigle brought the seafood spice blend he created in his kitchen on the island to Maryland. Jane McPhaul, J.O.’s daughter, took over operations of the family business in the late eighties while her son, Don Ports, was serving in the Marine Corp. In 1990 Don joined his mother in the family business with a vision to expand. “In the summer of 1991 I met my spice girl, Ginger, with the pick up line you’re destined to be mine; you’re named for a spice,” said J.O. Spice Company president Don Ports to wife Ginger Ports the moment they met. Twenty eight years later, the duo — alongside their children Brittany, Tyler and Bethany — are at the helm of Halethorpe- based J.O. Spice Company. “We can provide crab houses with everything they need for the crab eating experience minus the crabs,” Don says. The company added crab boxes, crab paper, bushel baskets, crab knives, crab mallets and a variety of other items to their offerings. “We purchased our first laser engraver and that opened the door to the retail gift world and personalized options,” Don says. J.O. specializes in custom blended seasonings for pizza companies, pit beef stands, butchers, potato chip companies and more. They are more than seafood seasonings. “My children — the fourth generation — and our amazing team work side by side to make all of this happen,” Ginger says. “At J.O., we are all family who enjoy working with so many other family businesses.

CELEBRATING

75 YEARS OF 4 GENERATIONS

We are blessed.” Visit them at jospices.com.

3 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

NEXT-LEVEL

QUALITY TIME

These days, we’re all craving connection, even as we maintain our distance. Boating offers a unique way to deepen family bonds in a rejuvenating environment. With the Boston Whaler 420 Outrage, you’ll find smart amenities, flawless performance and spacious comfort for your whole crew — ensuring that family time is quality time, every time.

WWW2.BOSTONWHALER.COM/TIME

Whaler - Quality Time Ad Chesapeake Bay Single Page 8.125 x 10.75 1025-2020122

Get a GEICO quote for your boat and, in just 15 minutes, you’ll know how much you could be saving. If you like what you hear, you can buy your policy right on the spot. Then let us do the rest while you enjoy your free time with peace of mind. geico.com/boat | 1-800-865-4846

Some discounts, coverages, payment plans, and features are not available in all states, in all GEICO companies, or in all situations. Boat and PWC coverages are underwritten by GEICO Marine Insurance Company. In the state of CA, program provided through Boat Association Insurance Services, license #0H87086. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, DC 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2020 GEICO 20_206641

HOT NEW 2021 MODELS Big Water Capable. Big Fun Guaranteed 3z: Dual Console SPECIFICATIONS L.O.A.: 38' 2" Beam: 11' 0" Hull Draft (with Motors Up): 21" Hull Draft (with Motors Down): 31" Maximum Horsepower: 600 HP

The MJM 3z dual console is all MJM: rugged build and the swift, soft ride of a Doug Zurn hull. Boaters will love the technological and control advances of the 3z’s twin Mercury Verados with joystick piloting, Skyhook, low maintenance costs, easy pre-flight checks, and quiet running. Family and friends will love three distinct seating areas, including an enclosed pilothouse where you can escape wind and spray or turn on the AC or even the heat all while enjoying 360-degree views. Revel in the close connection to the water that is the MJM 3z experience.

43 LE: Luxury Express SPECIFICATIONS L.O.A. with Integrated Platform: 43' 6" Beam: 13' 0" Hull Draft (with Motors Up): 2' 3" Hull Draft (with Motors Down): 3' 5" Maximum Horsepower: 1,350 HP The first in its series, the 43 LE emphasizes sport styling combined with luxurious amenities, dedicated social zones, and thrilling performance. While the bow provides relaxation via a chaise lounge, the aft social zone shows off a rotating lounge with multiple locking positions and a built-in footrest. A fold down terrace expands the cockpit and improves your access to the water. Entertainment features are found throughout, including the galley, grill and premium stereo system. Head below deck to find sleeping accommodations, a complete head with shower and all of the appropriate overnighting or day-yachting amenities one would need.

Learn More At: northpointyachtsales.com

Maryland: 410-280-2038 | Virginia: 804-885-4090

HOMESTEAD GARDENS

Shop your favorite garden center from

Anywhere

Conveniently shop for everything you need to maximize your time at home this spring...from yard work and gardening to relaxing and enjoying your outdoor space.

T’’’’’’’m ’’’’ ’’’’’’ ’’’ ’’’’’’’ ’’’’’’ w’’h H’m’’’’’’ G’’’’’’’ ’h’ ’’’g’’’ ’’’’’’’’ g’’’’’ ’’’’’’ ’’ ’h’ B’’’’m’’’ ’’’ W’’h’’g’’’’ D.C. m’’’’ ’’’’’. W’’’’ ’’’’ ’’’’’’ ’’’ ’’’’’’’’’ ’’’’’’ ’’’’’’’’’ ’’’’’’ ’’’’’’’’ ’’’’’’’’’ ’’’ ’’’ ’’’’’’’’’ g’’g’’’’ ’’’’’ ’’’ ’h’’’’’ h’’’-’’-’’’’ ’’’’’’’’’’ ’’’ h’’’’’’’’’’’ ’’’’’’’’ ’’’ ’ g’’w’’g ’’’’’ ’’ g’’’’’ g’m’.

Introducing Homestead Gardens'

NEW E-COMMERCE STORE » Browse our store from the comfort of home. » View real-time inventory and images. » Place your orders online for pickup or delivery. » Safe and secure online payment.

Davidsonville & Severna Park or shop our online store at

shop.HomesteadGardens.com

true talbot. true chesapeake.

true

getaway

E A S TO N • OX F O R D • S T. M I C H A E L S • T I LG H M A N I S L A N D

Talbot County is home to some of the most beautiful and historic small towns in America. Explore our culinary treasures, one-of-a-kind boutiques and elegant inns. Or bike, kayak and sail the Chesapeake Bay. Plan your escape today! 8

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

410-770-8000 | TourTalbot.org ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

for Summer classes! LEARN ON THE WATER •

Boat Operator Certiﬁcation Kids 11-15 years old 5 days Monday-Friday (12.5 hours) (half days) June through August Space is limited

•

SAILBOAT SHOW at Your Convenience

Every day is a sailboat show at Annapolis Yacht Sales with the full lineup of Beneteau Sailboats. These impressive yachts are available for immediate showings in Annapolis, Tracys Landing, and Rock Hall. Beat the boat show crowds with safety and social distancing in mind and start sailing now. Plenty of great Summer and Fall sailing awaits...call for your private showing.

410.267.8181 AnnapolisYachtSales.com 10 W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

contents

On the Cover: Photo by Robert Glover. Hand lettering by Lauren Hom

CBM

Weekends on the Water 2020 / Volume 50 Number 4

28 14 58 38 14

28 38

DESTINATIONS

14 Havre de Grace

From bootleleggers’ paradise to boaters’ getaway.

Urbanna A tiny town

that’s big on charm. And big on oysters.

28 Rock Hall 58 Hampton Deale & Herring Bay 38 68 Cape Charles Celebrating the watermen (and their tasty catch).

Get away from it all with great boating and fishing.

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

First on the list for history, boating, and fun.

Proof that you can’t keep a good town down.

48 68 58

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

READY TO CRUISE! R-29CB / $314,937 320 HP VOLVO DIESEL IN STOCK

C-24 / $114,937 F250 HP YAMAHA IN STOCK

20-YEAR LOW INTEREST FINANCING • WE TAKE QUALITY TRADES! 5-YEAR VOLVO PENTA WARRANTY 30-DAY NO COST DOCKAGE (MD ONLY)

CALL US ABOUT VIP APPOINTMENTS!

Pocket Yacht Company

WEEKENDS

NEW LOCATION! New Bern, NC Grasonville, MD • Jensen Beach, FL 888-519-9120 • sales@pocket-yacht.com

www.pocketyacht.com

( 4 1 0 ) 8 2 7 - 8 0 8 0 • 108 Hess Frontage Road, Grasonville, MD 267-9731 • 110 Compromise Street, Annapolis, Md • w w w. w h a l e r to wChesapeakeBayMagazine.com ne.com O N(410) T H E WAT ER

welcome Volume 50

CBM

Number 4

PUBLISHER

John Stefancik

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Evans

Managing Editor: Chris Landers Cruising Editor: Jody Argo Schroath News Director: Meg Walburn Viviano Multimedia Journalist: Cheryl Costello Editors at Large: Wendy Mitman Clarke, Chris D. Dollar, Ann Levelle, John Page Williams Contributing Writers: Rafael Alvarez, Laura Boycourt, Larry Chowning, Ann Eichenmuller, Henry Hong, Marty LeGrand, Emmy Nicklin, Tom Price, Nancy Taylor Robson, Karen Soule

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jill BeVier Allen

Contributing Photographers: Andy Anderson, Mark L. Atwater, Skip Brown, André Chung, Dan Duffy, Jay Fleming, Austin Green, Jameson Harrington, Mark Hergan, Jill Jasuta, Vince Lupo, K.B. Moore, Will Parson, Tamzin B. Smith, Chris Witzgall

PRODUCTION MANAGER Patrick Loughrey

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Mike Ogar

ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Michael Kucera • 804-543-2687 m.kucera@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Senior Account Manager Emily Stevenson • 410-924-0232 emily@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Senior Account Manager Megan Tilley • 919-452-0833 megan@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Publisher Emeritus Richard J. Royer CHESAPEAKE BAY MEDIA, LLC Chief Executive Officer, John Martino Chief Financial Officer, Rocco Martino Executive Vice President, Tara Davis 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403 410-263-2662 • fax 410-267-6924 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Editorial: editor@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Circulation: circ@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Billing: billing@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Chesapeake Bay Magazine (ISSN0045-656X) (USPS 531-470) is published by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC, 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. $25.95 per year, 12 issues annually. $7.99 per copy. Periodical postage paid at Annapolis, MD 21403 and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes or corrections for Chesapeake Bay Magazine to 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. Copyright 2020 by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC— Printed in the U.S.A.

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Weekends on the Water 2020 Six exciting new destinations!

ast year’s Weekends on the Water was so successful that we decided to come back with six new destinations to tempt you to get out and explore the Bay. We know it’s easy to fall into a rut. We all do it. We tend go to places we already know. St. Michaels, Annapolis, Solomons, Deltaville. Don’t get us wrong, these are great places! In fact, they are so great we featured all of them in our first ever Weekends on the Water. When we go to these places we know where to dock or launch our boat, where to stay, what to do, Jody Argo Schroath CBM Cruising Editor where to find the best ice cream. In other words, we feel right at home. And while we understand that’s important, we also know that there are lots, lots of new places to explore, new restaurants to sample and, of course, new ice cream flavors to try out. So, pull out the charts and the calendar, and let’s figure this out. We know that before you go, you’ll want to know where to stay, where to launch your boat, what there is to do, and, of course, where to get that ice cream. We’re going to tell you all that because that’s what Weekends on the Water is all about. We’ve chosen six new destinations for you to sample. Some of these you may already know about, because they are famous Chesapeake destinations. Three of them, Rock Hall, Hampton and Cape Charles, certainly fall into that category. A couple of them, Urbanna and Havre de Grace, you may have heard of but not considered because you don’t know much about them. And another, Herring Bay, you probably know only as DC-area boaters’ favorite place to keep their boat. But we’re here to show you that there’s so much more! And that’s true of all of this year’s Weekends on the Water destinations. We confidently believe you’ll find that they are some of the best destinations on the entire Bay! Read on, and we’ll tell you why. This year we’re publishing in the middle of an unprecedented pandemic, and we know you have questions and concerns. Where possible, we’ve included the latest closings, but the situation changes quickly these days, so if there’s a special place you want to see, check with them to see what their current hours and rules are, and make sure you’re aware of the latest maskwearing and travel restrictions. Check the COVID-19 policies of the places you’re staying, and make sure you’re aware of all the local rules and regulations. Bring plenty of masks and hand sanitizer, wash your hands frequently and thoroughly, eat outside, or get carry-out when possible, and take all the precautions you’d take at home. If you feel uncomfortable making the trip now, don’t go. Remember, these towns have been around a long time, and they’ll still be just as beautiful next year. And, dear reader, we want the same for you. W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

HAVRE DE GRACE Surprise! This small town at the top of the Bay has everything your Weekend on the Water needs. WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO

H TRAVEL ................16

LODGING ............18

SIGHTS ................20

DINING ................24

avre de Grace, the quiet little town up at the mouth of the Susquehanna River, has had a colorful past. Just consider this: The town was effectively named in the 17th century by visiting general, Le Marquis de Lafayette, who was charmed by this early shipping port. After the Revolution, it missed becoming the capital of the United States by one vote. In the 18th century it lost its status as a port of call when a hurricane rearranged the channel to the other side of the Chesapeake, leaving it forgotten and isolated. In the 19th century, it became a center for mass duck harvesting by market hunters and the rich and famous, from presidents to robber barons. In the early 20th century, it was a favorite of gamblers, mob bosses, and refugees from Prohibition. (Did you know that Maryland was the only state that officially ignored Prohibition, the federal ban on alcohol?) And in the 21st, it settled down to become what it is today, a charming, friendly, and well-behaved city full of graceful Victorian homes, curious antiques shops, interesting restaurants and singular museums, a city more popular with retirees than renegades.

u Concord Point Lighthouse

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

These Upper Chesapeake Experiences …. brought to you by the Vandiver Inn

Minutes Away, Worlds Apart in Historic Havre de Grace, MD Buy One Mid-Week Night, Get The Next Night Half Call 800.245.1655 and mention this ad.

Vandier Inn MAG 820.indd 1

www.vandiverinn.com

7/14/20 12:02 AM

H AV R E D E G R A C E

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO FIND Havre de Grace developed along the junction of the Susquehanna River—mother river of the Bay—and the Chesapeake. While that means that you are never more than two or three blocks from the water, it also means that if you want to go from one end of town to the other, you will have a hike of about a mile and a half from the city marina in Millard Tydings Park at the south end of town to the Havre de Grace Marina and the Lock House Museum at the north end. The other best choice, Tidewater Marina, is located approximately mid-way between the two. In any case, it’s a lovely walk, and you can always Uber back. Most of the shops and restaurants you’ll be visiting are located along north/ south-running Washington and St. Johns/Market streets. Parallel streets, Lodge and Strawberry lanes, make equally pleasant walking since they are chock-ablock with lovely homes and shady trees.

HOW TO GET THERE If you are arriving by boat The channel into Havre de Grace is easy to follow but you will find it more than a little circuitous. For that, you can thank the broad, shallow expanse of the fish- and fowl-rich Susquehanna Flats. Boaters with shallow-draft boats who know the waters can find their way across, but the rest of us will need to dutifully follow the channel markers around the shoreline. The Havre de Grace/Susquehanna River Channel leaves the main Chesapeake Channel just after green “5” and red “6”. You can begin cutting over any time after green “3”. There’s plenty of water here at the grand intersection of the Bay with the Elk and Northeast rivers and the Havre de Grace/Susquehanna River Channel. Just make sure you pick out the red-green intersection buoy “A” and treat it as a red, keeping it to starboard as you enter the channel. The next marker, green “1S”, is a mile and a half north-northwest. Don’t worry, though, there is plenty of depth on both sides here, but the channel narrows after “1S” and the water around it shallows. The markers are spaced closer together, though, so it’s easy to follow. From there, the channel skirts the Flats and shadows Spesutie Island, a restricted area of the U.S. Army Aberdeen Proving Ground. As you turn north toward Havre de Grace, you’ll pass through a half-dozen tiny spoil islands to port and to starboard, the historic Fishing Battery Light, which, oddly, is considered part of the Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge. Three miles beyond these little islands, you’ll find yourself at the south end of Havre de Grace and the channel into the city yacht basin at Tydings Memorial Park. If you are aiming for another of the town’s marinas—in addition to the city marina, we recommend either Tidewater or Havre de Grace marinas—simply continue on the channel another half mile to a mile. We’ll get back to that in the next section.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Open for Relaxation

G N I T A O B MADE SIMPLE TM

We Buy the Boats

You Join the Club

Get Free Training

Reserve and Enjoy!

888.781.7363

240.232.2331 CALL • freedomboatclub.com

v i s i t h a r f o r d . c o m

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R rack_card_2018.indd 1

11/18/2019 10:26:53 AM

H AV R E D E G R A C E

If you are trailering in You’ll find Havre de Grace a welcoming place and the nearby waters fascinating to explore. Did we mention fishing? You’ve come to the right place. The Susquehanna Flats and Susquehanna River are world famous fishing grounds. There are three easy options for trailer boaters. The first—and perhaps best if you want to leave your rig overnight—is Havre de Grace City Yacht Basin. Just be aware that its nicely paved ramp gets very busy with bass fishermen and weekend families. The ramp fee is $10 and it’s fine to leave your vehicle and trailer overnight—just let a marina official know. The city yacht basin ramp gives you easy access to the spoil islands just to the south, the Flats and, if you head north, the Susquehanna River. About half-a-mile north of the city yacht basin and just north of the Amtrak railroad bridge, you’ll find another Havre de Grace boat ramp at Jean S. Roberts Memorial Park. Here boats with trailers will pay $5 for a smaller, rougher ramp. Roberts Park sits at the mouth of the Susquehanna River. A third option, especially if you are extending your stay beyond Havre de Grace, is Susquehanna State Park, about five miles upriver. In addition to its boat ramp at Lapidum, the park offers tent and RV camping and 15 miles of trails. There is a $10 boat launch charge.

If you are launching a kayak, canoe or SUP In addition to enjoying the pleasures of visiting Havre de Grace, you’ll find some nice paddling both to the north and south of town. Launch your vessels at any of the three places we’ve listed above—Havre de Grace City Yacht Basin, Jean S. Roberts Park and Susquehanna State Park—or from the floating dock at Frank J. Hutchins Park on Congress Avenue, just north of Tidewater Marina. All of these have good parking. We’ll talk about a couple of paddle trips later on.

If you are coming by seaplane What? Yes, really. In addition to everything else it has to offer, Havre de Grace has its own seaplane base, located just south of the Tidewater Grille. The facility, located on the water (of course) at St. Johns Street, has a pilots’ lounge, restrooms, and shops. You’ll find the designated seaplane landing area on the charts at the mouth of the river. Simply land, then taxi into the base loading dock.

WHERE TO STAY Havre de Grace City Yacht Basin Whether you are going to stay on your boat or not, a slip at the city marina in Tydings Park at the south end of town will put you within reach of nearly all that Havre de Grace has to offer. The only fly in the ointment may be the depth, which is generally about five feet on the approach and at the slips. If you need more, try either of our alternatives. Line up with the marina channel markers after you pass Susquehanna channel green “17” and make the port turn (coming from the south). Then pass through the breakwater and find your slip. The marina has slip-holder restrooms and showers, fuel, pump-outs, and 30- and 50-amp service. From the marina, take the promenade to visit the Decoy, Maritime, and Concord Lighthouse museums. Or walk through Tydings Park to Washington Street to visit many of the town’s shops and restaurants. First, enjoy a bite at the Promenade Grille in the park. Or pick up ice cream at Bomboy’s.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

MARINAS

Tidewater Marina

Havre de Grace City Yacht Basin

Havre de Grace Marina

100 Bourbon St

352 Commerce St 723 Water St

POINTS OF INTEREST

Baysail Yacht Charter & Sailing School

Old Town Parasail

Summer Breeze Cruises

Black-Eyed Susan Cruises

Vincenti Decoys

Washington Street Books

Tydings Memorial Park

Frank J. Hutchins Park

Jean S. Robert Memorial Park

Havre de Grace Decoy Museum

Havre de Grace Maritime Museum

Lock House Museum

Concord Point Lighthouse

Bahoukas Antiques & Beer MuZeum

100 Bourbon St

352 Commerce St

100 Congress Ave 723 Water St

353 Pennington Ave 131 N Washington St 908 S Washington St 100 Congress Ave 509 Otsego St 215 Giles St

100 Lafayette St

817 Conesteo St 714 Concord St

408 N Union Ave

ACCOMMODATIONS

Vandiver Inn

Currier House Bed & Breakfast

Spencer Silver Mansion

La Clé d’Or Guest House

301 S Union Ave 800 Market St

200 S Union Ave

226 N Union Ave

DINING

Bomboys Homemade Ice Cream

Bomboys Candy Shop

322 Market St 329 Market St

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Calve alvert al vert Marina vert arina

SOLOMONS, MD

ALFRESCO MARINA

Means having dozens of picnic tables, over 40 acres of open space for dogs, kids and fun, walking paths, plentiful parking, large pool and deck, outdoor dining, a beach, lots of room to breathe and enjoy nature and view wildlife.

3 7

Water St Hoopers Ln

Wa ter

Ontario St

rl S Pea

Linden Ln

Otsego St N Adams St

N Juniata St

We also have open and covered slips available.

17 31

e arr

24 Centennial Ln

Green St

Ave

gton

in Penn

25 33 28 32 27 29 9 26 34

Congress Ave

Strawberry Ln

Fountain St

S Lodge Ln

S Union Ave

S Juniata St

Bourbon St

We want to ﬂoat your boat

410-326-4251

CALVERTMARINA . COM

22 23

Girad St

Concord St

Pink Ln

Lewis St

Young St

S Freedon Ln

S Stokes St

S Adams St

Market St

Revolution St

Alliance St Lafayette St S Juniata St

Giles St

ke Dr

5 10 2

apea

Call for winter storage today!

Full Services for power

Commerce St Ches

Full power and Services sail on thefor Choptank and River sail on the Choptank in Cambridge River in Cambridge Call us for

Tidewater Grille

Goll’s Bakery

Les Petits Bisous

Vintage Café

Concord Point Coffee

Java by the Bay2

300 Franklin St

234 N Washington St 100 N Washington St 114 N Washington St 217 N Washington St 118 N Washington St

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Promenade Grille

Backfin Blues Creole de Graw

The Vineyard Wine Bar

River City Public House

Lacucina Italian Restaurant

352 Commerce St 400 N Union Ave

142 N Washington St 209 N Washington St 103 N Washington St

• Complete Refits Call us for • Repowering • Fiberglass & Gelcoat Repair • Awlgrip Painting • S/S & Aluminum Fabrication • Complete Refits • Carpentry • Rigging • Repowering • Awlgrip Painting

• Gel Coat and Fiberglass Repair • S/S & Aluminum Fabrication Carpentry • Rigging 205 •Cedar St, Cambridge, MD 21613 (410) 228-2520 generation3marina@gmail.com

205 Cedar St, Cambridge, MD 21613 (410) 228-2520 generation3marina@gmail.com W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

H AV R E D E G R A C E

Tidewater Marina If you continue along the Susquehanna channel another half-mile, you’ll come to Tidewater Marina, recognizable by its large mooring field. If you are heading for a slip rather than a mooring ball, turn to port (from the south) before the red and green “SR” nav aid to enter one of its two basins. Call on VHF 16 to get directions. Tidewater Marina has fuel, restrooms, showers, full repair services and a good chandlery. Depths at the slips are about six feet.

Havre de Grace Marina Havre de Grace Marina at the north end of town has plenty of depth—about 15 feet reported—but sailboats will have to be able to negotiate the Amtrak railway bridge, which has a 52-foot closed clearance, though we have occasionally found as little as 49 feet. Theoretically, it will open on 24-hour notice, but since it carries a lot of trains, including high-speed ones, the opening would have to be pin-pointed to the minute. As a result, it almost never opens. Sailboats will find a better option at Tidewater or the city yacht basin. Those who can get under the bridge, however, will find floating docks, a bath house, laundry, 30- and 50-amp service and all the usual amenities. There are also rental bicycles, kayaks, and SUPS.

Bed and Breakfast

u Susquehanna State Park

Havre de Grace has several lovely and charming bed and breakfasts, but we want to start with the Vandiver Inn on South Union Avenue. Even in a town chock full of glorious Victorian homes, the Vandiver Inn stands out as quintessentially of its time. Its gardens, porches and grounds are so stylish, smart and undated that you might feel a bit dizzy. Step inside, however, and you’ll find what owners Susan and John Muldoon call Chesapeake chic. We also find the Currier House Bed & Breakfast on Market Street utterly irresistible. Built in the 1700s, it has been in the Currier family since 1861. Current owner Jane Currier has a hundred fascinating stories to tell, about the first Currier owners, her great-grandparents, and about her uncle Jim Currier, one of the Chesapeake’s most famous and well-respected decoy carvers.

Susquehanna State Park If you are towing your boat in (or on top of the car) and have a hankering to pitch a tent or rent a rustic cabin, consider a couple of nights at Susquehanna State Park. From there you can launch your boat or drive into town for the day. You’ll have plenty of activities in the park itself and the kids can run, jump and whoop to their heart’s content. Just be sure to reserve in advance if you are going on a summer weekend.

WHAT TO DO Take a trip up the Susquehanna. Whether you’ve come by boat, brought one along or come without one, there are

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Fu ll Se rv ice M ar in a

in the Cen ter of Tow n

Waterfront Event Venue

Hi & Dri Boatel

Comprehensive Service

Fresh Water Deep Slips

100 BOURBON STREET

Free Courtesy Shuttle

Marine Supplies & Accessories

1.800.960.TIDE

www.TidewaterMarina.com

Tidewater MAG 820.indd 1

7/15/20 3:33 PM

Open 7 days a week – Year round Monday – Saturday: 10.30am -4.30pm Sunday: 12pm – 4pm *The Museum is currently open to the public. In response to COVID-19, we’ve made some essential changes to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience for all.

Photos by: Scott Moody

215 Giles Street, Havre de Grace, MD 21078

Decoys have been a central element of Chesapeake culture for centuries. In the beginning, they were made for one purpose — to lure waterfowl within range of the hunter’s shotgun. Decoys were simple, utilitarian representations of ducks and geese rough-hewn from wood. No one considered them art. Today, decoys lure far more people than waterfowl. One is perhaps more likely to find a decoy adorning a collector’s mantelpiece than floating in a hunter’s rig. Contemporary carvers produce sophisticated works of art with century-old skills that have been passed down from master to apprentice for generations. Located on the banks of the historic Susquehanna Flats, the Havre de Grace Decoy Museum houses one of the finest collections of working and decorative Chesapeake Bay decoys ever assembled. Visit the Decoy Museum and discover the art of decoy making and waterfowling traditions that make Havre de Grace, Maryland the “ Decoy Capital of the World!”

w w w . d e c o y m u s e u m . c o m

4 1 0 . 9 3 9 . 3 7 3 9

H AV R E D E G R A C E

some very pleasant ways you can get out on the water and enjoy its principal tributary, the Susquehanna River. Of course, the Susquehanna was never an easy river to navigate. In 1609, Captain John Smith was turned back by the same rock-strewn shallows that still frustrate boaters. Early in the 20th century, a series of energy-producing dams—including the mighty Conowingo, 10 miles north of Havre de Grace—put a stop to any throughtransportation, but now, if the river is quiet and the Conowingo is not dumping water, kayakers and Jon-boaters with local knowledge can get within 400 yards of the dam, but no closer, it’s not permitted. It is important to be sure of conditions before venturing out and to understand that snags and rocks can play havoc with boats and motors. The area in front of the dam draws photographers and birders from all over the world to watch eagles soar over the rocks and dam, picking off fish downstream. Kayakers and trailer boaters can put in at Susquehanna State Park and kayakers farther upstream at Shuresville Landing at Fisherman’s Park. A more sensible alternative is for boaters whose mast-height does not exceed 50 feet to make the trip upriver out of Havre de Grace, past Garrett Island as far as Port Deposit. The geography here is unlike anything else on the Chesapeake, with steep bluffs rising high above the water.

Other people’s boats

u Conowingo Dam

Didn’t bring a boat or just want to take a break? Here are some options: If you’d like to try your hand with a kayak or paddleboard, simply rent one at Havre de Grace Marina. Or you can rent a sailboat for a half-day or more, or charter a boat from Baysail Yacht Charter and Sailing School located at Tidewater Marina on Bourbon Street. For something completely different, try parasailing. Old Town Parasail is located at the city yacht basin on Commerce Street. Want someone else to do the work? Try a Signature or Sunset Cruise aboard the M/V Summer Breeze, which leaves out of Hutchins Park on Congress Avenue. Or board the paddleboat Black-Eyed Susan, also out of Havre de Grace Marine Center for occasional specialty and Sunday afternoon cruises.

Four fine museums! Wait, don’t panic, this is going to be fun. Yes, Havre de Grace has four museums. And yes, you should visit them all. If you only visit one of Havre de Grace museum, we suggest that you make it the Decoy Museum. It doesn’t matter whether you are a keen hunter or quake at the thought, this museum represents a big part of the history of the Chesapeake Bay. And the decoys created by Bay carvers are astonishing. The museum itself is big, bright, airy and well laid out on two floors. You can get to it from the Promenade, the three-quarter mile walkway that wanders through the marsh and waterfront from Tydings Park in the south to Concord Point Lighthouse and Keeper’s House Museum in the north. After you leave the Decoy Museum, it’s only a hop, skip and a jump along the Promenade to the Havre de Grace Maritime Museum and another similarly short

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

410.939.2161

H D G m a r i n e c e nt e r. c om

@ H D G m a r i n e c e nt e r

H AV R E D E G R A C E

walk to the Concord Point Lighthouse, which is open on Saturday and Sunday afternoons April to October. The fourth museum, the Lock Tenders Museum, lies at the north end of town. It is here that the short-lived Susquehanna Canal met the Chesapeake. In addition to the tender’s house, there are the remains of one of the canal locks.

Shops

u Decoy Museum

One of the particularly glorious things about Havre de Grace is its shops. We know, that doesn’t sound any more exciting than visiting four museums, but trust us, it is. There are fun antiques shops and galleries, like JoRetro Vintage Market, which specializes in 50s, 60s, and 70s everything, Artists By the Bay, Arts Emporium, and Bayside Arts, to name but a few. Then there are the shops you won’t find anywhere else, like Bahoukas Antiques Mall and Beer MuZeum. But there’s more, like Vincenti Decoys, which sells decoys old and new, of course, but a lot more, and Washington Street Books and Music, which has books and music, but also toys, old movie costumes, and props. Even Havre de Grace’s food shops are one of a kind. Take for example Goll’s old-fashioned German bakery. Or Les Petits Bisous, which features authentic, made-by-theowner macarons. And have we mentioned Bomboy’s Ice Cream enough times? Well, there’s more. Across the street you’ll find Bomboy’s Candy Shop. You’ll find all of these downtown, mostly on Washington, but also on Pennington, St. Johns and Market streets.

LaFayette Walk Simply follow the bright blue French fleurs-de-lys painted on Havre de Grace’s sidewalks to follow the LaFayette Walk, which encompasses many of the town’s historic and architecturally significant buildings. You can pick up the brochure at the visitor center on Pennington Street.

Tydings Park Take the kids to Millard Tydings Park at the south end of town to enjoy the huge playground and room to run. Pick up a sandwich at the Promenade Grill and sit in the shade and enjoy.

WHAT TO EAT Breakfast If we want more than a cup of coffee, we gravitate to the tiny Vintage Café on Washington Street for a simple but reliably tasty breakfast. Waffles, cheesy potatoes, milk shakes. It’s all good. Opens at 7 a.m. every day but Monday.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

McDaniel

If you're looking for a place to stay in the Upper Chesapeake Bay,

McDaniel Yacht Basin

has everything you could need. Fuel Dock Boat Storage Repair Services

Serving the upper chesapeake bay

Maintenance Services

Since 1929

Bait & Tackle Marina Pool Nearby you can find local restaurants, hotels, shops, & more in the town of North East.

833.425.2423 15 Grandview Avenue North East, MD oasismarinas.com

at snagaslip.com

Looking for a quaint stay in the Upper Chesapeake?

833.425.2423 230 Riverside Drive North East, MD oasismarinas.com

Shelter Cove Yacht Basin Electric | Cable Hookups | Fuel Dock | Boat Storage | . .and so much more!

Enjoy the town of North East while we service your vessel at snagaslip.com

H AV R E D E G R A C E

On the other hand, if we want to concentrate on getting a great cup of coffee, we stick with Washington Street and head for Concord Point Coffee, though we like Java by the Bay too, especially if we’re pairing the coffee with dessert.

Lunch and Dinner Picking out just a few of Havre de Grace’s many good restaurants to highlight is tough, but here goes: We have already mentioned the Promenade Grill in Tydings Park, but we’ll say again that it’s a handy spot to pick up a sandwich for an impromptu picnic in the park. Then, as we’ve also mentioned about six times, we head up to Bomboy’s for yummy homemade ice cream. When we want to sit down to a nice lunch or dinner, we love the view and enjoy the food at Tidewater Grill. If you are in your boat, Tidewater has its own docks for a convenient stop. We never miss a trip to Backfin Blues Creole de Graw for its unique, Chesapeake twist on French creole cooking. It’s a long name, and a bit of a hike up to Union Street, but well worth the effort. Try the Gumbo Ya-Ya or the Etoufée. And we know this doesn’t sound like a restaurant, but we have to recommend The Vineyard Wine Bar on Washington Street. Sure, it has great wine, but it also has very good, impeccably fresh, and highly inventive food for lunch or dinner. Where else could you find Wild Boar and Risotto and Potato-Crusted Rockfish with Blood-Orange Supremes?

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

scoutcart.com

410.919.3479

ROCK HALL Where watermen are the stars—and pirates, seafood and boats the supporting players WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO

T TRAVEL ................30

LODGING ............32

SIGHTS ................34

DINING ................36

his tiny town of fewer than 1,500 people has an influence far beyond its size. Or its location. For the land-based population, Rock Hall is undeniably out of the way—lying, in fact, at the end of the road. Yet each year, it attracts legions of land-based visitors from across the mid-Atlantic and boat-based visitors from well beyond. Why? Let us count the reasons: First, Rock Hall, which has been around since 1706, continues to celebrate the Chesapeake Bay’s iconic watermen, who still mine area waters for delicious crab, succulent oysters, and all the other local products justly venerated at dinner tables throughout the world. Second, Rock Hall offers visitors some of the finest sailing, cruising, paddling, and trailer-boating waters anywhere. In keeping with that, the town has some of the most sophisticated marinas on the Chesapeake, many of which also offer charming accommodations on land. Finally, Rock Hall really knows how to throw a party! Just ask the thousands who attend its festivals, like the Pirates and Wenches Fantasy Weekend in August (cancelled this year), the Fourth of July party and the Fall Fest. Third, although Rock Hall is at the end of the road, it is still an easy drive from metropolitan centers such as Washington D.C., Baltimore and Philadelphia. And for boaters it’s not at the end of the road at all, but right in the center of things, an easy trip across the Bay.

u Waterman Statue at Rock Hall Harbor

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

HAVEN HARBOUR MARINA 20880 Rock Hall Ave Rock Hall, Maryland 410.778.6697

HAVEN HARBOUR SOUTH 21144 Green Lane Rock Hall, Maryland 410.778.6697

The Chesapeake Bay no other way Book a sailing charter, grab a drink at Passages Bar & Grill or stay the weekend at our 19-room Inn at Haven Harbour – the possibilities available to you are endless. Plan your next Chesapeake Bay getaway at HAVENHARBOUR.COM.

ROCK H A L L

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO FIND Now you know why people flock to Rock Hall, let’s take a quick look at how it’s laid out. The town, especially from a boater’s perspective, is divided into two distinct sections: Rock Hall Harbor and Swan Creek. Both have good marinas, good places to eat, and good places to find accommodations. How do you decide which to choose? If you are on a boat in unsettled weather, Swan Creek offers more protection. If you want to be within walking distance of the Waterman’s Crab House or have a front-row seat for the Pirate and Wenches’ Fantasy Weekend invasion, Rock Hall Harbor will be your choice. The good news is that whichever you choose, the other is easily accessible by trolley, which generally runs on weekends during the boating season. This pandemic year, of course, may be an exception. But bicycles are always an excellent option for getting around and for visiting Rock Hall’s charming downtown, which lies a few blocks away, centered along Main Street between Chesapeake Avenue and Rock Hall Avenue. Follow Rock Hall Avenue east to access everything on Swan Creek.

HOW TO GET THERE This is one of those many occasions on the Chesapeake, when getting there is considerably shorter by boat than by car. A trip from Baltimore’s Middle River, for example, is a mere dozen nautical miles, a trip that could be made in a modestly sized craft in settled weather in no time at all. If you don’t want to stay on the boat, simply reserve a room or cottage at one of the marinas and you have a quick and easy weekend getaway in your family runabout. For those farther south on the Bay, Rock Hall is located 10 miles north of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, just north of the Chester River.

If you are arriving by boat

u Rock Hall Harbor

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

Whether you are headed to Rock Hall Harbor or Swan Creek, find green “1” north of Love Point. This will take you to either the harbor or Swan Creek beyond. If you are coming across the Bay, be sure to avoid the Swan Creek Bar, going all the way south to “1” if you have a deep-draft vessel. If the harbor is your destination, enter the harbor breakwater then follow the marked channel either to port or starboard to reach the marinas that line the shore. Whichever way you go, just be sure to stay in the channel to avoid the large shoal due west of the breakwater. If you follow the harbor around counterclockwise, you’ll find North Point Marina, Harbor Shack Restaurant, Bayside Landing Park— with its boat ramp and free town dock, Rock Hall Marine Railway, and Rock Hall Landing Marina. This is followed by the Sharp Street boat ramp, the famous Waterman’s Crab House, Black Duck Inn, and finally, Haven Harbour South (the former Sailing Emporium). Whew, and that’s just Rock Hall Harbor. ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

410.675.8888 2780B Lighthouse Point E. Baltimore, MD

Dock, dine, and play in the heart of Downtown Baltimore!

baltimorelighthousepointmarina.com

HOME OF

ROCK H A L L

The entrance to Swan Creek lies just north of the harbor. Once inside, follow the markers carefully until you reach your chosen marina. We’ll get to the specifics a little later, but you’ll come to them in this order: Gratitude Marina, then around the tip of Deep Landing, Swan Creek Marina. In the area beyond, which is called The Haven, you’ll find Osprey Inn & Marina and Haven Harbour Marina and then finally Spring Cove Marina. There are many big cities that have a lot fewer marinas than Rock Hall. And these are all nice marinas!

If you are arriving by car Driving the route is easy too, it just takes a bit longer. After your trip across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, simply follow the signs to Chestertown and then to Rock Hall. It’s about 50 miles from the eastern end of the bridge. If you are trailering your boat, you have several options for launching close to Rock Hall, including the two we mentioned above, Sharp Street Public Landing and Bayside Landing Park Boat Ramp, both in Rock Hall Harbor. You’ll need to pick up a county permit first—kentcounty.com/recreation/boating/landings.

WHERE TO STAY From the list we’ve just given you in the What to Expect section, you will have guessed that if you are arriving by boat, the choice is going to be difficult. The options are good for staying ashore as well.

Marinas

u Osprey Inn & Marina

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

There are just too many fine marinas in Rock Hall for us to go into them in detail. With that understood we will mention a few here, but that doesn’t mean that the others we’ve listed aren’t terrific as well. In Rock Hall Harbor, our choices, if forced to decide, would be North Point because it’s friendly, convenient, near the Harbor Shack and has fuel; Rock Hall Landing because it’s handy to Waterman’s as well as downtown shops; and Haven Harbour South, which has enjoyed lots of upgrades since its purchase by Haven Harbour, including a sand beach with actual palm trees. And it still has the same great staff. On Swan Creek, we’ve stayed at them all, and always have a hard time choosing among them. With that in mind, we recommend Gratitude for its service and facilities as well as location “at the end of the road,” as they put it; Swan Creek Marina particularly for family-style approach and its economical mooring balls; Osprey Inn & Marina because of its lovely floating docks, it’s graceful grounds and well-appointed inn and restaurant, and well, just because we like it; and finally Haven Harbour, where we’ve spent holidays and quiet weekdays catching up with friends, we choose for the professionalism of its staff, its well-stocked ship’s store, and for its well-regarded ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Bu r

ris R

ROCK H A L L

ve.

Carter A

24 14

a in N. M

Rd. ng Cove

Spri

rne Ave. S. Hawtho

6043 Lawton Ave

Williams St

Henry Ave.

Catholic Av

26 17 12

ake

sape

Che

E Sharp St.

arp

Ave.

Haven Harbour Marina

St.

Judefind Av

Osprey Inn & Marina

Striper Run

Ct.

5924 Lawton Ave

law

Bayside Av

33 9

Swan Creek Marina

Jamar Rd.

Mercer Av

Blu

Haven Rd.

N. Hawtho rne Ave.

21144 Green Ln

Gratitude Marina

20786 Rock Hall Ave 20880 Rock Hall Ave

ney

w t Do

Rd.

Gree

n Ln.

New

Spring Cove Marina

21035 Spring Cove Rd

POINTS OF INTEREST

Chester River Kayaks

Shardana Sailing Charters

Haven Bareboat Charters

Blue Crab Charters

18 23

Rock Hall Av

5657 S Hawthorne Ave

Haven Harbour South

Rock Hall Landing Marina

so er

5639 Walnut St

28 Be

North Point Marina

New St.

MARINAS

Hynso

6 22 10 31

Lawton Ave.

n Rd.

St.

hia

Fit

5758 N Main St

20786 Rock Hall Ave 20846 Rock Hall Ave 21055 W Sharp St

Rock Hall Harbor

Swan Creek

Bayside Landing Park

Rock Hall Mine Railroad

Off Bayside Avenue

5676 S Hawthorne Ave

Sharp Street Public Landing

Waterman’s Museum

ACCOMMODATIONS

Black Duck Inn

Mariner’s Motel

North Point Marina Motel

Osprey Point Inn

Inn & Manor House at Haven Harbour

Spring Cove Manor

20196 Chesapeake Ave 5681 S Hawthorne Ave 5639 Walnut St

20786 Rock Hall Ave 20950 Rock Hall Ave

21060 Spring Cove Rd

DINING

Harbor Shack Restaurant

Watermen’s Crab House

Dockside Café

Muscrat Alley Café

Java Rock

Ford’s Seafood

Osprey Point Restaurant

Passages Bar & Grill at Haven Harbour

Get the Scoop

20895 Bayside Ave 21055 W Sharp St

21097 Chesapeake Ave 5877 Coleman Rd 21309 E Sharp St 21459 Rock Hall Ave 20786 Rock Hall Ave 20832 Rock Hall Ave

21267 Rock Hall Ave #104

20880 Rock Hall Ave

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ROCK H A L L

work yard. Spring Cove Marina we love as well, though it doesn’t take transients. It is, however, a great place to charter a boat.

Inns Rock Hall is rich not only in fine marinas, but also in its charming inns, most of which are in fact located within marinas. We’ll break things up again by location. On Rock Hall Harbor, our very favorite choice would be the Black Duck Inn, where you can have free docking when you stay in the inn. It is also located conveniently near the boat ramps if you are trailering in. The Black Duck Inn’s Dockside Café was still closed for the pandemic when we went to press, but we certainly hope it will be reopened by the time you read this. Also along the harbor, you’ll find Mariner’s Motel at Rock Hall Landing Marina and the North Point Marina Motel, both very pleasant. On Swan Creek, we’d recommend the Osprey Point Inn, which we mentioned earlier, and the Inn and the Manor House at Haven Harbour Marina, as well as Spring Cove Manor at Spring Cove Marina. You’ll want to check with all of these, as well as downtown Rock Hall’s several inns, to be sure they have reopened.

WHAT TO DO Rock Hall is a waterman’s town through and through, and—except for all of us who come to look, stroll, eat, and enjoy its annual festivals—it retains the look and feel of a town dedicated to harvesting the riches of the Bay. So, think of that as you hop on the trolley or pedal your bicycle through town. If you get an opportunity, stop by the old fishing ark that sits at Main and Rock Hall Road or visit the model in the Waterman’s Museum. Arks were once used as little cottages for watermen when they needed to concentrate their efforts in a certain area too far away from home to return each night. They would drag the ark behind their workboat and then park it up a handy creek. This of course was before they could rev up the diesel or outboard and zip home in no time at all, as they do now. The Watermen’s Museum is located at Haven Harbour Marina on Rock Hall Road. Naturally, one of the most important jobs that you’ll have while visiting Rock Hall is to enjoy the watermen’s harvest of the Bay’s riches. You can do this either by stopping at a seafood shop like Ford’s or by enjoying local seafood at one of Rock Hall’s restaurants. So put that on your list of things to do. We’ll get to a few more details in the next section. While we’re on the subject of seafood, though, we should suggest that you may want to do some harvesting of your own. Rock Hall has plenty of ways to do it, including charter fishing boats. You can always use your own boat too, whether you are trailering it or cruising over on it. A stop at Hook, Line & Sinker Tackle Shop will get you set up nicely. More boat supplies can be found at the marina ship’s stores as well as West Marine and the Rock Hall Marine Railway. If paddling or sailing is more your style, Chester River Kayaks is a good place to start. We suggest you make the short trip to the Eastern Shore Wildlife Refuge, where you can launch your own or rent a kayak to explore this extraordinary marine landscape. Want to charter a sailboat? You can do that at Spring Harbor Marina, Shardana captained charters at Osprey Point, Haven Bareboat Charters, or Blue Crab Charters, where cruises leave from Sharpe Street Pier. But there’s more to Rock Hall than seafood and water sports. Take the trolley or a bicycle into town and visit the town’s numerous galleries, as well as crafts and antiques shops.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

500 PINEY NARROWS ROAD, CHESTER, MARYLAND 21619

Kent Narrows Front Door to the Eastern Shore on marinas.com

2021 SLIPS AVAILABLE • OWN YOUR OWN BOAT SLIP • COVERED & OPEN 30 - 62FT • ANNUAL AND SEASONAL LEASES EASY/QUICK BAY ACCESS • FUEL DOCK • PUMP OUT • GATED FOR SECURITY • POOL • CLUB HOUSE • LAUNDRY • WI-FI • TRANSIENTS WELCOME LOCATION: KENT NARROWS ON MARYLAND’S EASTERN SHORE • Lat: 38 97.38 Lon: 076 24.83

CALL 410-643-6600 FOR MORE DETAILS

WWW. PINEYNARROWSYACHTHAVEN.COM

NEW DOCK LY RENO S & A VAT MEN ED ITIES !

SPONSORED CONTENT

Te sti ng You r Ma r r ia g e o n the Wat er If you ask Matt Pernal, the Argo Navigation app saved his marriage. That might be a tiny exaggeration, but the self-confessed boating novice ran his 22-foot Sea Ray Sundeck aground three times last season. At least twice, they had to call a tow boat and each time they waited about an hour. So much for a fun day in the sun. “We tried using the channel markers, but they can be off,” said Pernal, whose wife discovered Argo and downloaded it to their phone. “This is our first year using the Argo app, and it makes me look a lot smarter. I look like a champion.” With Argo’s guidance on water depth, Pernal says he can avoid “skinny” water in the channel. The app helps him find recommendations on where to explore and the best places to throw anchor. Argo is like having a First Mate in your pocket. The app comes with maps, routing function, captain’s log and a social feed, as well as real time reports from other boaters. Pernal can set a destination in Argo and the app will suggest the shortest route based on his boat’s draft. Argo will estimate his time of arrival and Pernal can also save his journeys on Argo to share photos and comments with his friends and family. “It’s very easy to use,” Pernal said. “It’s free. You can see where people have gone. You can let people know if there’s an obstruction on the way. We like the way that Argo is building a community.” For Pernal, who has seen his family’s summer plans vanish in the midst of the Coronavirus pandemic, Argo makes his whole family feel safer sharing time on the water. “My 12-year-old son is comfortable with the app,” Pernal said. “He’s taken a safe boater’s course, but he feels competent enough with the app that he’ll drive us through some of the channels. It’s been a real lifesaver.” Argo is available as a free download on the Apple App Store and on the Google Play Store. Learn more at argo-nav.com .

Join the Argo community at

www.argo-nav.com or download the FREE app

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ROCK H A L L

We mentioned this earlier, but this is a good place to remind you to consider a visit to coincide with one Rock Hall’s famous annual festivals. The Pirates and Wenches Fantasy Weekend takes place in August (though not in 2020) and we hope the Fourth of July Fireworks party and Waterman’s Day will be back next summer.

WHERE TO EAT Breakfast and Lunch We love both Java Rock coffeehouse and Muskrat Alley Café. At Java Rock, we have trouble getting beyond the Gratitude Panini, which is a happy combination of roasted papers, artichoke hearts and pesto. At Muskrat, we usually opt for Mylita’s Quiche, which has crab and shrimp. Muskrat is open on weekends (including Fridays) and Java is open all week.

Lunch and Dinner For lunch or dinner, don’t miss Ford’s Seafood, where you can pick up already cooked crab cakes (and other seafood) or you can take them back to the boat to grill them yourself. Either way, they are delicious! And be sure to stop by Chester River Seafood for local crabs and fish. For a special lunch or dinner, be sure to stop by Osprey Point Restaurant. And you may already have made plans to eat lunch or dinner at the well-known Watermen’s Crab House or the very popular Harbor Shack, both located on Rock Hall Harbor? Yes, more fresh seafood to enjoy! And both have dockage while you dine. Neither fan-favorite Wheelhouse Restaurant & Inn nor Bay Wolf Restaurant had reopened by press time, but we are confident that they will both be back serving great food soon. Now, is everyone ready for ice cream? Check out Get the Scoop on Rock Hall Avenue. We are partial to the Minty Moo and the MD Madness and the peanut butter cookies. ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

JUST MINUTES FROM THE BEST FISHING AND CRUISING THE CHESAPEAKE BAY HAS TO OFFER.

- 20 room inn - Full service marina & boatyard - 75 slip basin - Daily, weekly & monthly slips - Complimentary continental breakfast - WiFi - Courtesy car and bikes - 750 ft. ﬂoating dock - Reasonable fuel prices

MARKER FIVE RESTAURANT 410-886-1122

KNAPP’S NARROWS DREDGED

800-322-5181 • www.KNAPPSNARROWSMARINA.com

TRANSIENT GROUPS WELCOME

DEALE & HERRING BAY Can you say “great boating” and “excellent fishing”? Then you can say “Herring Bay” and “Deale”! WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO TRAVEL ................40

LODGING ............42

SIGHTS ................44

DINING ................44

erring Bay looks on the map like a giant thumbprint pressed into the Western Shore of the Bay along the otherwise long and featureless stretch between the West and the Patuxent rivers. This welcoming indentation, with its fertile land and easy access to the rich fishing grounds of the Bay, have made it attractive from the earliest colonial days. You won’t find many traces of those days left. But once there was a town of Herrington, and during the War of 1812, there was a fortification on Town Point at the mouth of Rockhold Creek on the north end of Herring Bay. Here, a determined American lieutenant fired a lone cannon at a large party of British marines heading for shore. The cannon fire did no harm, but it did annoy the soldiers, who immediately swarmed ashore. The desperate lieutenant lit off another round, but the cannon slid off its mount and onto his foot. As his four fellow soldiers fled the scene, the unfortunate lieutenant

u Herrington Narbour South

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

D E A L E & H E R R I N G B AY

hobbled painfully along behind them. The British set fire to a tobacco barn and left. The lieutenant was fine. And that is the story of Herring Bay’s part in the War of 1812. Okay, that was a little off the point, but we like the story, especially since that section of Rockhold Creek is now home to Herrington Harbor North, one-half of one of the largest and most luxurious marinas on the Bay and home to the Bay’s largest collection of skilled marine contractors. Herrington North even has its own West Marine. The other half of Herrington Harbor, by the way, is located at the bottom end of Herring Bay. Today, Rockhold Creek is lined with marinas, large and small, fancy and downhome, along with a couple of very popular dock bars and a large fleet of charter fishing boats, many of which cleverly make their home at one of those very popular dock bars. So why are we sure you’ll want to visit Herring Bay and the little town of Deale? Because you can fish some of the Bay’s best waters, either on your own boat or with one of the charters. You can spend the weekend relaxing at one of Herring Bay’s marinas, The Inn at Herrington Harbour (South) or Hidden Harbor’s Anchored Inn, and sampling seafood and meeting a whole new set of soon-to-be friends. Or as Shipwright Harbor’s Jed Dickman modestly puts it, “It’s a wonderful, ideally located spot, where you can find everything you could possibly want.”

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO FIND Now, let’s get the lay of the land. We’ll start at the south end of Herring Bay, which is occupied by Herrington Harbor South, tucked neatly within its own basin. If Herrington North (the one we mentioned that lies near the old Town Point) is all about mixing work and play, then Herrington South is all about play. It has its own very special restaurant (more about this later), its own hotel, swimming pool, and beach. And of course, its own marina and fuel dock. It’s a whole resort in one neat package. This is the kind of place where people come to get married. On the the north end of Herring Bay—about two and a half miles away—the action centers on Rockhold Creek. Here, as we mentioned earlier, lies Herrington Harbor North (logically), as well as a fistful of other marinas, like Shipwright, Paradise, Rockhold Creek and others that we’ll get to as we go along. Here too are those popular dock bars and, beyond the first bridge, a couple more marinas for smaller boats and the town of Deale. During the boating season, a water taxi neatly connects the two ends.

HOW TO GET THERE Herring Bay is the location of choice for boaters who live in the Washington D.C. area. For them, this is often the most convenient spot, about an hour, on a good day, from downtown. It takes about the same amount of time driving down from Baltimore and about two hours if you’re driving up from Richmond. Once you get there, you are smack in the middle of the Bay, which means easy trips to Eastern Bay and St. Michaels as well as the Choptank River and Oxford or Cambridge. And of course, all those lovely fishing grounds will be right there. Annapolis is about 15 miles north and Solomons about 30 miles south. All of which makes Herring Bay a convenient destination as well as a central starting point.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

D E A L E & H E R R I N G B AY

If you are coming by boat Once you get to Herring Bay, the most important thing to know if you have a draft more than three or four feet is that there is a long finger of shoal water that extends from the north end of the bay nearly two miles south or within a halfmile of the south end. Yes, there are ways to cross it, but if you don’t know the waters, you are better off playing it safe by following the markers. If you are heading to Herrington South, it doesn’t matter, of course. Nor is it an inconvenience if you are coming up from the south. If you are coming from the north and are aiming for one of the north-end marinas, come down to red “2” and then follow the markers north in deep water. The channel entrance into Herrington South’s basin is straightforward and deep, but on the other end, the short section of channel from the Rockhold Creek breakwater to markers “8” and “9” is narrow and can be crowded on weekends and shallow in spots to about five or six feet at dead low tide. At markers “12” and “13”, the channel for Herrington North splits to port while the main channel continues north then northeast to reach all the other marinas and the dock bars. Coming up Rockhold Creek channel, Skipper’s Pier Restaurant and Dock Bar is the first thing you’ll find to starboard. This is quickly followed by Paradise Marina, also to starboard, and then Shipwright Harbor Marina’s extensive docks to port. Family-owned Hansel’s Marina and Sherman’s Marina follow to starboard and then Happy Harbor Restaurant to port. Happy Harbor is the dock bar we mentioned with all those conveniently located charter boats. Under the Deale Road Bridge, which has a vertical clearance of 14 feet, lie Harbour Cove Marina, a popular location for smaller boats with shallower drafts, and finally Hidden Harbour, which is home to the Anchored Inn.

If you are bringing your boat (or not) We’ll let you Google Map your way off the main highways into Deale. As we mentioned it’s a pretty easy drive from Baltimore, Annapolis, and Washington. When you get ready to splash your boat, you’ll find the sole area boat ramp at Harbour Cove Marina on Rockhold Creek. The Anchored Inn is conveniently nearby. The trip out of the creek and onto the Bay is quick and easy. If you are bringing a canoe or kayak, you’ll find a number of places to launch, including the beach at Herrington South and other soft-launch locations at most of the marinas on Rockhold Creek. From there, you can explore Herring Bay and Rockhold Creek, which meanders peacefully above the Deale Road Bridge for about two miles. You can also explore adjacent Tracy’s Creek above the S.R. 256 Bridge north of Herrington Harbour North for about a mile.

WHERE TO STAY Marinas If you are looking for an all-inclusive family get-away-from-it-all weekend, you may want to head directly for Herrington Harbour South. Here, you’ll have easy access to the Bay from the comfort of its entirely protected boat basin. There is an excellent restaurant and your own sandy beach and swimming pool a few steps away. You may even decide to get off the boat and stay in the inn. For lighter meals, as well as beer and wine, simply walk across the street to Chesapeake Market & Deli. On the other hand, if you go to Herrington North, you can have dockage, a pool, work-out room, have some boat-work done, and sample a couple of classic local hangouts in nearby Deale.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

u Herrington Harbour North

MARINAS

Herrington Harbor North

Herrington Harbor South

Shipwright Harbor Marina

Paradise Marina

Hansel’s Marina

Sherman’s Marina

Harbour Cove Marina

Hidden Harbor Marina

Rockhold Creek Marina

389 Deale Rd

7149 Lake Shore Dr

6047 Herring Bay Rd 6136 Drum Point Rd 6062 Drum Point Rd 611 Deale Road

5910 Vacation Ln 600 Cabana Blvd 453 Deale Rd

POINTS OF INTEREST

Tracys Creek

Herring Bay

Town Point

Weaver Boat Works 389 Deale Rd

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Bay Front Rd.

Dea le

e. Creek Av

C hu

rch

ton

Rd.

Rockhold

15 19 8

18 10 d. Deale R Franklin Gibson Rd.

3 4

lbo

Leitch Rd.

n ur

12 11

Town Point Rd.

ACCOMMODATIONS

The Inn at Herrington Harbour (South)

Anchored Inn

7149 Lake Shore Dr 604 Cabana Blvd

DINING

Ketch 22

Chesapeake Market & Deli

Happy Harbor

Boathouse Bar and Restaurant

7153 Lake Shore Dr 7150 Lake Shore Dr 533 Deale Rd

604 Cabana Blvd

Skipper’s Pier Restaurant & Dock Bar

Dockside Restaurant & Bar

e av

irh

6158 Drum Point Rd 421 Deale Rd

iendship Rd.

Walnut Ave.

Boyd s Tu

rn Rd

16 2 17 14

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

5th St.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

D E A L E & H E R R I N G B AY

Then again, if you bear right coming up Rockhold Creek and take a slip at Shipwright Harbor Marina, you can find plenty to make you happy, including dingy or water-taxi access to the local-favorites Skippers Pier and Happy Harbor, a saltwater pool, bikes, and kayaks. Above the Deale Road Bridge, which has a vertical clearance of 14 feet, you’ll find two more good options, especially if you are trailering your boat in. Harbour Cove Marina has wet and dry slips, a pool, and clubhouse and it’s within walking distance to restaurants and a hardware store. Just beyond, Hidden Harbour Marina offers slips, a playground for kids, the Boathouse Bar for adults, and the popular Anchored Inn for those who prefer to stay ashore. Globally famous Weaver Boats, which builds exquisite, big-game, sportfishing yachts, is located just next door.

Inns If you want to stay ashore and still take advantage of all Herring Bay has to offer, you have two good choices, both of which we’ve mentioned earlier. The first is The Inn at Herrington Harbour South and the second is the Anchored Inn at Hidden Harbour Marina.

WHAT TO DO

u Twin Creeks Water Tax-Z

Do you want to relax and get away from it all? Then Herring Bay is a terrific choice. Do you want to get out on the water, either in your own boat or as part of a fishing charter? You could hardly make a better choice. Fishing, sailing, and exploring the backwaters by paddle craft: It’s all here. If you don’t have a paddle craft, you can rent one from Chesapeake Paddle Sports next to Paradise Marina. If you just want a tour of the local creeks, call Twin Creeks Taxi and Capt. Z will appear in his pontoon boat, Solo Cup, to make it happen. Shoot, there may even be a trivia game involved. It doesn’t matter whether you choose the north or south end of the bay, because you won’t be separated from the other end. Simply call or hop aboard Capt. Z’s water “Tax-Z” (443995-9957), which generally runs Friday and Saturday during the boating season. In Deale itself, you’ll find the Deale Hardware & Home Center, South County Café, and Deale Umai Sushi House.

WHERE TO EAT This is always our favorite part, and here on Herring Bay, we’re particularly enthusiastic about the subject. Let’s start with two of the Chesapeake’s iconic dock bars, Skipper’s Pier Restaurant & Dock Bar, which, as we mentioned, is the first thing you’ll find on entering Rockhold Creek on the north end of the bay. Owners Dave and Jessica

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

410.228.4031

2 Yacht Club Drive | Cambridge, MD 21613

38° 34’ 34.6944” N / 76° 4’ 27.5448” W

cambridgeyachtbasin.com

D E A L E & H E R R I N G B AY

u Dockside Restaurant & Bar

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

Rosage have combined their training in business management and culinary arts to set Skipper’s apart from your average dock-and-dine facility. You can get here on your own boat, on your dinghy, paddle craft, or by water taxi. Oh, yes, and by car. Deale’s second of four dock bars is the famous Happy Harbor waterfront restaurant, which has been serving local watermen, residents and visitors since 1933. Wow! You can get everything to eat here from fried pickles and steamed clams to a cheeseburger and catfish dinner. All the while, you can enjoy the congenial company and watch the charter boats come and go. The third and fourth? Dockside Restaurant and Bar at Herrington North and the Boathouse at Hidden Harbour. And there’s more, whether you stay at Herrington Harbour South or not, you’ll want to make the trip there just to have dinner at Ketch 22 restaurant. Here owners Bobby and Julie Jones oversee an inspired menu of regional food. Bobby is also co-owner of the wildly successful The Point Crab House and Grill on Mill Creek in Arnold MD. The menu at Ketch 22 includes crab gazpacho, braised pork and cabbage, and ricotta pie and berries.

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

HARBOUR COVE MARINA FAMILY OWNED & FAMILY FRIENDLY SINCE 1992

STORAGE, SERVICE & 2020 SLIPS AVAILABLE!

Best Kept Secret on the Chesapeake Bay!

FULL-SERVICE MARINA

* * * * * * * * * *

Boatel & Wet Slips On Demand Launch Free Wi-Fi Pool & Picnic Area Kid, Pet & Family Friendly Fuel, Ice & Pump Out High & Dry Storage 24 Hour Security Mechanics On Site Certified Mercury Outboard Dealer

5910 VACATION LANE, DEALE, MD 20751 - WWW.HARBOURCOVE.COM - 301.261.9500

Harbour Cove MAG 420.indd 1

3/3/20 12:55 PM

Your access to all points of the Chesapeake Bay

Rockhold Creek Marina Marine Services

Maintenance/Repair

Annual Dockage

at snagaslip.com

833.425.2423

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

453 Deale Road

Deale, MD

oasismarinas.com W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

URBANNA This tiny Rappahannock town is big on charm, restaurants and history. And, oh yes, a simply colossal oyster festival! WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO

E TRAVEL ................50

LODGING ............52

SIGHTS ................54

DINING ................56

ach October, approximately 75,000 people troop to the Rappahannock River for the Urbanna Oyster Festival, which recently turned 50. While they are there, they discover this special little town, which surprises with its old-world charm and its 21st century amenities. But you don’t need an oyster festival to find this out for yourself. We suggest that you take the 15-mile trip up the river from the Bay to find out why we believe Urbanna is one of the best destinations on the entire Chesapeake. We’ve been coming to Urbanna for years, occasionally for the Oyster Festival, but usually when we can have the place to ourselves. We fill up with seafood, smoked meats, and milk shakes (not all at the same time) and then walk off the overindulgence by retracing the town’s 300-year history through its wide variety of architecture. We are sure that you too will fall in love with Urbanna. You can cruise upriver and stay in one of its pleasant marinas or stay at its delightful Chesapeake Inn or elegant Atherston Hall Bed & Breakfast. If you are coming by boat, you can combine your trip to Urbanna with any number of stops along the

u Urbanna Town Marina

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

CATCH A FLICK WITH A FRIEND!

OPENING LATE SUMMER 2020! The Northern Neck will soon have its very own six-screen cinema that will feature the latest blockbuster releases and offer cozy, reserved seating, and premium concessions! 100 Entertainment Drive, Irvington, VA 22480 CompassEntertainmentComplex.com | 804-884-4FUN (4386)

URBANNA

way, The Tides Inn and Irvington across the river, for example, or Deltaville at the river’s mouth. And if you trailer in or bring your canoe or kayak, Urbanna Creek and other nearby tributaries are special places to explore. Urbanna is especially attractive as a weekend adventure if you live in Richmond or Norfolk/Portsmouth. Urbanna is a delight no matter where you begin.

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO FIND

u Marshall’s Drug

We mentioned earlier that Urbanna is easy to get around on foot. Whether you choose the town marina at the entrance to Urbanna Creek or one of the Bridge marinas farther up the creek, you’ll find that you are already in the middle of town. A short stroll from the town marina up the old rolling road from its days as an important tobacco port will take you by the Old Tobacco Warehouse (James Mill Scottish Factor Store), now the Urbanna Museum & Visitor’s Center. From there, walk up Virginia Street for restaurants, shops, and an actual grocery store. Turn left on Cross Street for old Marshall’s Drug Store, which keeps customers happy at its original lunch counter. Continue down Cross Street to Watling Street and you’ll soon arrive at the Bridge Marinas. The Chesapeake Inn is located on Virginia Street, and the Atherston Hall Bed & Breakfast just one block south on Prince George Street. You can get there from with Cross or Virginia streets.

HOW TO GET THERE If you are coming by boat Here too, it couldn’t be simpler. Go about 15 miles upriver from Stingray or Windmill points at the mouth of the Rappahannock and you’ll find the entrance to Urbanna Creek along the southern shore. You’re there. The Urbanna Town Marina comes first and then, just before the S.R. 227 Bridge, the appropriately named Bridge Marinas.

If you are bringing your boat (or not) Like Deltaville, its neighbor to the south, Urbanna is not exactly on the way to anywhere, a point that we consider an advantage frankly. In any case, you’ll want to find yourself on historic U.S. 17, which traces much of the southern shore of the Rappahannock. From there, follow the signs to Urbanna, usually using S.R. 615 to S.R. 602. You can launch your trailer boat from the town marina’s boat ramp or go up Urbanna Creek a few miles, where you’ll find the Saluda public boat ramp at Oakes Landing. If you want to launch your paddle craft, you can also use the town marina’s facilities or Oakes Landing boat ramp in Saluda.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

NOW NOW HAULING HAULING CATS CATS UP UP TO TO 32’ 32’ WIDE WIDE

At Our Mobjack Bay Location Ourmore Mobjack Location To At learn call Bay 804-725-3440 To learn more- call 804-725-3440 ZIMMERMANMARINE.COM INFO@ZIMMERMANMARINE.COM ZIMMERMANMARINE.COM - INFO@ZIMMERMANMARINE.COM

Zimmerman.indd 1

7/15/20 4:22 PM

Zimmerman.indd 1

7/15/20 4:22 PM

Brilliant!

URBANNA

u Bethpage Camp-Resort

MARINAS

Urbanna Town Marina

Bridge Marinas

1210 Oyster Rd 15 Watling St

POINTS OF INTEREST

Urbanna Creek

Old Tobacco Warehouse

R.S. Bristow’s Store

S side of Rte. T-1002 200 Virginia St

ACCOMMODATIONS

WHERE TO STAY Marinas We’ve mentioned these, but here they are again. Both are good options. Bridge Marinas are a bit fancier and newer and have a few more options. Both are an easy walk to everything in town. The first marina up Urbanna Creek is the town marina. Depths are generally about six feet, though the first slips coming are a bit shallower, so go bow in or check with the dockmaster. The docks are aging a bit and have short finger piers, but there is a laundry, restrooms and free bicycles to use. The marina is located in the midst of a popular park. Bridge Marinas has newly built facilities, renovated existing ones, and some new floating docks. They have also recently added covered slips at the second Bridge Marina, which is the former location of Urbanna Port Marina. The marina has all the usual facilities and has both diesel and ethanol-free gasoline.

The Chesapeake Inn

Atherston Hall Bed & Breakfast

250 Virginia St

250 Prince George St

DINING

Something Different

Marshall’s Drug Store

Cool Beans

Big Oak Café

Where the Sidewalk Ends

Portside Grill

Colonial Pizza

213 Virginia St 50 Cross St 51 Cross St

2761 Old Virginia St 280 Virginia St 25 Cross St

50 Watling St

Inn The Chesapeake Inn is located in the center of town (well, really, what isn’t?) on Virginia Street. It has 13 suites decorated in a different styles and with plenty of good stuff like big TVs, refrigerators, Wi-Fi and so forth. They also offer packages that include a river cruise. How cool is that?

Bed & Breakfast Atherston Hall Bed & Breakfast is (you guessed it) right in the middle of town on Prince George Street. The imposing home was built in 1880 by a schooner captain. It has two lovely parks within its grounds, a big welcoming porch and three guest rooms.

Camping If you have an RV or would like to rent a cottage of your own, Bethpage CampResort is located just north of town. It even includes a water park.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

seb

err

ert

tar

Color

ado A

Per kin

ood s

West

Ave

St Tay

lor

Bristow Ln Rap

pah

ano

ck A

er L

Talb

Bon

Par

k St

ter R

Lind

en S

ner

Oys

3 Virginia

5 6

Watling St

Laure

l Hill D

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Moly’s Way

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

URBANNA

WHAT TO DO Walk around Urbanna No matter how you choose to visit Urbanna, whether it’s on your own boat or with trailer boat or paddle craft in tow, you’ll want to start your visit with a stroll through the streets of this delightful and charming town. We know that those are hackneyed adjectives, but we also know Urbanna from years of visits and we know that they are no exaggeration. Urbanna is a quiet shady place, with a variety of architecture reflecting its long history. There is even a short walking tour you can download to your phone that will take you past examples of buildings from its pre-Revolutionary days as a tobacco center through its long years as a fishing and shellfish center. Don’t miss R.S. Bristow’s Store, “the home of good goods” since 1876. And whenever you find you need a break, there is always the opportunity for a cold drink or a yummy ice cream just around the corner.

Visit one of the world’s most important maps

u Tides Inn

What? Go see an old map? What kind of weekend’s entertainment is that? We hear you, but we believe you’ll find it’s worth the trouble. And, really, it’s hardly any trouble at all. You see, this is a first edition of the Mitchell Map of 1755, a map that has been used over the centuries to help settle wars. First, it was used in the Treaty of Paris in 1783, which as you of course remember, marked the end of the Revolutionary War. Later, France, Spain and Great Britain all used the Mitchell Map to settle various disputes. It was even used in 1980 to settle a fishing boundaries dispute between the U.S. and Canada. John Mitchell, you see, was an Urbanna landowner before he moved to London and became a cartographer. He created a map of the eastern portion of what became the United States and included borders, settlements (including Urbanna) and locations of Indian tribes. It was a beautiful map. Urbanna acquired its Mitchell map through one of its banks, thanks to employee Jesse DeBusk, and the contributions of school children and townspeople. It’s a good story, but unfortunately not one we have room for here. So while you are in Urbanna, be sure to visit the map, which is on display at the town museum in the Old Tobacco Warehouse. It’s conveniently located on Virginia Street.

Get out on the water Now that you’re up the Rappahannock River, take advantage of it. If you came on your own boat or pulled it behind you, you’ll find plenty of places within easy reach. For example, the beautiful Corrotoman River just across the Rappahannock has miles of shoreline and half-a-dozen navigable branches, all worth exploring. Pack a picnic lunch and enjoy. Next door to the Corrotoman, you’ll find Carter Creek, home to one of the Bay’s most elegant resorts, The Tides

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

SEAFOOD FOR

BuSbba’s hac

EVERYONE

h ri m p S

ur l

ocal p ra w n brok

er!

4 locations to choose from! Urbanna

Hayes - Grafton - Tappahannock

bubbasshrimpshack.com

“If you do it right

you don’t need sauce”

Righteous Ribs Bodacious Butts somediff.com ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

•

(804) 758-8000 W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

URBANNA

Inn. Park at their docks and enjoy a delicious lunch, or stay for the evening and enjoy dinner and perhaps a round of golf. Bring your kayak, canoe or SUP? You’ll find plenty of nearby creeks ideal for paddle craft. After you’ve paddled Urbanna Creek, head upriver about a mile and try Robinson Creek, with its little branches off of branches. Less than a mile north of that is even longer Lagrange Creek, then Weeks Creek, Parrotts Creek and Mud Creek. You get the idea. Didn’t bring you own boat? No problem. You can charter a fishing boat through Bridge Marinas or you can catch a ride on a historic buyboat through Golden Age Charters or on a 24-foot pontoon boat through Urbanna Cruises.

Urbanna Oyster Festival We can’t promise that the festival will be on this October 2020, but whenever you do get the opportunity, we suggest you come upriver for a visit. It’s crazy fun! There are shucking contests, of course, and booths for every variety of oyster and crab dish, as well as entertainments, parades and, well, everything else you can think of.

WHERE TO EAT

u Portside Grill

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

Walking, maps and cruises done, it’s time at last to talk about food. And you’ve come to the right place. We want to start with Something Different, the weirdest and possibly most delicious restaurant you’ll see. This may be the only restaurant you ever eat at that specializes in “Fine Neanderthal Cuisine.” Yes, it’s all about smoked meats, which of course they do themselves. In fact, they do everything themselves, including make the incredibly delicious ice cream that you will want to have for dessert. For breakfast, we recommend either Cool Beans or, on the weekends, Big Oak Café (also open for lunch and dinner), although we find ourselves as often as not at Where the Sidewalk Ends on Virginia Street. Delicious baked goods too! Portside Grill on Urbanna Creek is Urbanna’s only waterside restaurant, and it’s a delight. We know you’ll enjoy the Virginia Street Café, which has great fried oysters. Colonial Pizza is the pizza place in Urbanna, And last but not least, don’t leave town without stopping at Marshall Drug’s lunch counter for a real old-fashioned milk shake. It’s on Cross Street, just around the corner from Bristow’s good goods. See, don’t you love it already?

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

MILE

Follow the Mermaids to Food, Fun and Entertainment

watersidemarina.com

ICW

Walking distance to Downtown Norfolk’s Attractions, Restaurants, Arts and Entertainment! New Floating Docks and Power!

Waterside Maraina MAG 820.indd 1

BIG Improvements For Boaters

7/14/20 12:33 AM

Today more than 12 million boats cruise and fish in the waters of the United States. Recreational boating is a growing economic activity, and in many ways exceeds that of waterborne commerce. Boating Infrastructure Grant (BIG) funding is available to help marinas meet the increasing demand for transient boater tie-ups and sanitary facilities. The BIG program protects the integrity of our waterways by ensuring that these boaters have places to seek refuge, dispose of waste properly and use onshore facilities instead of discharging into the Virginia waters. For more information on Boating Infrastructure Grant funding, visit http://www.vdh.virginia.gov/Environmental-Health/ MARINA-program/big-program-marinas/pastboating-infrastructure-grant-big-projects/ or call (804) 864-7468.

The town of Urbanna used BIG (Boating Infrastructure Grant) funds to install transient boat slips, bulkheads, a pedestrian walkway,new power pedestals and ADA compliant restroom facilities with showers and laundry.

HAMPTON For history, boating, and good fun, you should put Hampton first on your list. WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO

E TRAVEL ................60

LODGING ............62

SIGHTS ................64

DINING ................67

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ven in an area as steeped in history as the Chesapeake Bay, Hampton stands a head taller. Here are a few quick examples. Hampton is the oldest continuous English-speaking settlement in the United States. Its prominent point at the entrance to Hampton Roads was given the name Point Comfort (now it’s Old Point Comfort) by the English colonists in 1607, before they sailed up the James to found Jamestown. Hampton was established soon afterward. And soon after that, the first fort was constructed on Point Comfort. It was here, in 1619, that the first enslaved people in North America were brought ashore. And it was here, at Fort Monroe during the Civil War, that three of the enslaved escaped and were given refuge by its commander, who declared them “contraband of war.” Hundreds more followed as the war continued. On a completely different subject, Hampton was also where the first astronauts were trained. Okay, we’ll stop with the history lesson and move on to just a few of the many reasons why Hampton makes the perfect Weekends-on-the-Water destination. Here’s a big one: The Hampton River leads right to the city’s doorstep,

u Virginia Air & Space Museum ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

H A M P TON

so coming in by boat is a snap, as is trailering or just driving in with your kayak on the cartop. Hampton has several excellent marinas and one of the friendliest yacht clubs around. It’s also easy to walk around the historic downtown where you’ll find one-of-a-kind restaurants and unusual shops, an excellent air-andspace museum and even a gorgeously restored carousel from the 1920s. We’ll get to all of that and more in just a minute. First let’s get the lay of the land.

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO FIND

u Fort Monroe

Seeing the sights in Old Hampton is about as easy as it can get. And whether you arrive by boat and settle into the Hampton Downtown Public Piers or the Customs House Marina, or stay at Hampton’s waterfront, you will find yourself ideally situated, because the old town, with its pedestrian friendly, shaded streets of restaurants and shops, the imposing Virginia Air & Space Center, and that carousel we mentioned, are all within a few blocks of each other. The Hampton River is short, wide, deep, and welcoming. The main part of old town is located along the waterfront and just north and west of the U.S. 60 bridge. Most of the restaurants as well as an utterly charming stationery store (yes, that’s right) are located along Queens Way. If you opt to stay a little bit downriver at the Hampton Yacht Club, you make the easy walk or bicycle ride up Bridge Street into the old town. Or if you decide on the excellent Bluewater Yachting Center, also down the Hampton River, you can use their water-taxi service. Across the U.S. 60 bridge, you’ll find Hampton University’s wonderful museum. A little farther afield, but a must-see site on your Hampton visit, is Fort Monroe, which you can visit by car, of course, but also by boat from Old Point Comfort Museum or by anchoring in adjacent Mill Creek, just east of the Hampton River at the entrance to Hampton Roads.

HOW TO GET THERE Hampton lies at the entrance to Hampton Roads, which is one of the principal reasons it has played such an important role in the history of the nation, first as a stop for early English settlers who were worried about attacks from the Spanish, then as a strategic toehold for the Union during the Civil War. Oops, back to history again. But we mention it because it also means that it is easy to reach, especially by boat. But, arriving by car offers no obstacles either. In fact, of the six destinations in this issue, it is the easiest, quickest and most straightforward to reach by land-yacht.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

H A M P TON

If you arrive by boat

MARINAS

If you keep your boat on the Elizabeth River or up the James, you will doubtless have passed the Hampton River dozens of times. If you keep your boat up the Bay, from Poquoson to Deltaville, you’ll find that the Hampton River is an easy cruise away. The same is true if you are in the Maryland portion of the Bay. You’ll just have to plan on a night or two anchored out or in one of the many marinas just off of the main stem of the Bay. Once you reach Hampton Roads, one of the world’s best and busiest natural harbors, you have only to pass by in the watchful shadow Fort Monroe to find the entrance to the Hampton River. It is, in fact, where the Hampton Roads Tunnel makes its dive underwater. From Hampton Roads, the channel is well marked. Just be aware of the shoal that sits just offshore of the entrance. Follow the markers, and you won’t even notice it. As you come up the Hampton River, you’ll find Bluewater Yachting Center along the junction with Sunset Creek, followed quickly afterwards by Hampton Yacht Club. Both of these are to port, while handsome Hampton University lies along the starboard shore. With the U.S. 60 bridge ahead, you’ll find Customs House Marina and then Hampton Public Piers to port and a small anchorage to starboard. That’s it, you’re in Hampton.

Bluewater Yachting Center

Hampton Yacht Club

Hampton Public Piers

Customs House Marina

Old Point Comfort Marina

Hampton Marina Hotel

If you arrive by car If you are driving from Norfolk or Portsmouth, we don’t need to tell you the way to Hampton. If you are coming down from anywhere to the north, from Richmond to Baltimore, you’ll leave I-95 (or I-295) at I-64 for the drive down to Newport News and then Hampton. You’ll probably want to get off at LaSalle south to Settlers Landing Road east into the old town, but really that’s what Google Maps is for, isn’t it? If you want to launch your boat, the only public ramp directly onto the Hampton River is on Sunset Creek upstream from Bluewater Yachting. The next two handiest ramps are off Back Creek to the north. Gosnold’s Hope Park’s ramps are on the Southwest Branch and Fox Hill-Dandy ramps are at Dandy Point near Belle Isle and Dandy Point marinas. From there, you’ll need to come out Back River and turn south to enter Hampton Roads and then Hampton River, about a 10- to 15-mile trip. Launching a kayak or other paddle craft can be done conveniently from Mill Point Park, just under the U.S. 60 bridge, or a bit farther upriver at the River Street Park Canoe and Kayak Launch. The Hampton River, with its tiny tributaries, is a perfectly lovely and protected bit of water to paddle. You can also launch easily to explore the Fort Monroe area. No matter what size boat you are using, you can get quite close to the Fort Monroe bulkhead. It makes a great view.

WHERE TO STAY

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

4707 Victoria Blvd

710 Settlers Landing Rd 710 Settlers Landing Rd 100 McNair Dr Building 207 700 Settlers Landing Rd

POINTS OF INTEREST

Hampton River

Mill Point Park

River Street Park Paddle Launch

St. John’s Church

Hampton University Museum

Virginia Air & Space Museum

Hampton Carousel

Miss Hampton River Cruise

Casemate Museum

Hampton Museum

100 Eaton St River St

100 W Queens Way 14 Frissell Ave

600 Settlers Landing Rd 602 Settlers Landing Rd 710 Settlers Landing Rd 20 Bernard Rd

120 Old Hampton Ln

DINING

Surfrider Restaurant

Deadrise Restaurant

Glazed Doughnuts

Goody’s Deli & Pub

Venture Kitchen & Bar

Brown Chicken, Brown Cow

Latitude 37

Grey Goose

Marinas Bluewater Yachting Center lies one mile upriver, at the intersection of Sunset Creek. You can’t miss it. This is a lovely marina, with friendly and efficient staff, extensive boat repair services, boat sales, and its very own Surfrider Restaurant— and if you’ve spent time in the southern Bay, you are probably already a fan. The marina also runs a water taxi into town. Just upriver lie the docks of Hampton Yacht Club, which organizes a wellknown series of races and regattas each year. Then comes the Customs House Marina with docks right in front of the carousel and next door to the Virginia Air & Space Museum. The slips are easy to

15 Marina Rd

1 Marina Rd

100 McNair Dr 24 Wine St

11 E Queens Way 9 E Queens Way

13 E Queens Way

700 Settlers Landing Rd 118 Old Hampton Ln ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

lP Mil t oin Dr.

ln St.

Linco

St. ton Eas

e St

Win

Franklin St. ton Old Hamp

22 20 .

en S . Que

16 24

ing

nd s La

er ettl

Rd.

uee

E. Q

6 23 4 3 14

Ferry

Rd.

. ve ll A se

d. nR Ind

Fri

ina

Newport Ave.

Dr.

ore

Linden Ave.

Marrow St.

Ave.

Meredith St.

Bridge St.

S. Armistead

Lee St.

Rudd Ln.

Victoria Blvd.

Columbia Ave. Park Pl.

17 1

rin Ma

be Ave.

tan Rd.

Newcom

Kecough

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

rin Ma

o yH

FORT MONROE

5 15 18

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

H A M P TON

get in and out of, though mind the current, which, while not particularly strong, can provide a mild surprise to the unwary. The same is true of the Hampton Public Piers located just before the U.S. 60 bridge. Hampton Public Piers is the city marina, and it has nice floating docks along its bulkhead. The shower and restroom facilities are located in the visitor’s center just up the ramp. Also up the ramp, we might add, is a friendly brew-pub which makes a delightful stop on the way back to the boat after a day of sightseeing. The docks also connect under the bridge to Mill Point Park, which is a good spot for dog-walking and, as we mentioned, launching a canoe or kayak. There is also a dog park next to the carousel.

Hotel There is one downtown hotel, and it’s a nice one—Hampton Marina Hotel— located right on the waterfront between Customs House and Public Piers. It has a pool and restaurant and, located on Settlers Landing Road, is easy to get into and out of.

WHAT TO DO We’ve already given you a bunch of hints on what to do and see while you’re in Hampton, but in case you’ve forgotten already, here’s a quick rundown.

Stroll around town We know, we often start with this one, but it’s important to get the lay of the land, so to speak. We described the way in by water and interstate, but now that you’re here, you’ll want to enjoy the old town’s fascinating architecture, particularly Queens Way, from Mill Point Park abutting the river to old St. John’s Church just before you get to Franklin Street. Here, along this quiet centuries-old street, you find the heart of old Hampton. You will also find most of old Hampton’s bars and restaurants. But we’ll get back to that. We recommend that you wander through St. John’s grounds, particularly its old cemetery. The parish of St. John’s was established in 1610, though its location here dates only from 1728—still a respectably long time. The church itself includes a lot of firsts, but we’ll spare you those to discover on your own. We’ll just mention that the building includes the 1887 Pocahontas window, which was given, in part, by Native American students at what is now Hampton University, the first school in the country to admit Native Americans. Of course, you’ll also want to stroll along Old Hampton Lane, which curves around to intersect Settlers Landing Road. Stay on Hampton Lane and you’ll be on Bridge Street, which will take you past the working seafood plant, L.D. Amory & Co., and, across Salters Creek, the Victoria Boulevard Historic District, a fascinating residential area. If you cross Settlers Road, on the other hand, you’ll find the Virginia Air & Space Museum and the carousel as well as the downtown marinas.

Virginia Air & Space Museum This is a must-see stop on your Hampton visit. The all-glass building is striking indeed, whether you are outside looking in or vice versa. Inside, though, you’ll find early aircraft, early space technology, and an IMAX theater with a wide range of choices. Here too you’ll find the welcome center for the NASA Langley Research Center and Langley Air Force Base.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

El Diablo Loco Cantina & Tequila Bar 6 E. Mellen St. Hampton, VA 757.506.8779

Kismet Bistro 99 Main St. Newport News, VA 757.327.0716

A quirky, intimate cantina located in the heart of beautiful downtown Phoebus. El Diablo was inspired by the fresh, rustic street fare of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula. EDL is a local favorite and year round destination that features 70+ brands of tequila.

A cozy Newport News bistro located in the heart of historic Hilton Village. Kismet serves up a wide range of thoughtful cuisine, from hand-tossed pizzas &craft burgers to meticulous center plate entrees. All served up in a lovely environment by a gracious & knowledgeable staff.

A respectful homage to the humble Oyster Bar... We source our oysters from growers throughout the Chesapeake Bay watershed and recycle all shells. Fuller’s features a plethora of fresh seafood along with a creative selection of appetizers, sandwiches and center-plate entrees served up in a bright and airy environment. Located a block from El Diablo Loco.

A waterfront restaurant located at Old Point Comfort Marina on historic Fort Monroe. Fresh, locally sourced seafood, minimally processed and simply prepared. Tiered outdoor decks, cozy dining room and a full service bar provide a spectacular waterfront venue overlooking Hampton Roads. Slips available while dining or for take-out.

Fuller’s Raw Bar 38 E. Mellen St. Hampton, VA 757.251.6497 The Deadrise 100 McNair Dr. Hampton, VA 757.788.7190

H A M P TON

Hampton Carousel

u Hampton Carousel

You are going to love this! Between the Air & Space Museum and the downtown marinas, you’ll find this charming, beautifully restored, gloriously detailed, perfectly executed carousel built in 1920. The mirrors and paintings at its center are original. The carousel is part of the Hampton History Museum. You’ll find its main building nearby on Queens Way.

Miss Hampton Harbor Cruise Whether you arrived by boat or car, you will want to climb aboard the Miss Hampton for a cruise out of the Hampton River and into Hampton Roads to get a good look at Fort Monroe and its sister fort, Fort Wool, which never got got used. We promise you’ll learn something new.

Fort Monroe Whether you take your boat, your dinghy or your car, don’t miss Fort Monroe. If you’ve trailered in, this makes a great excursion. We like to take the boat into Old Point Comfort Marina so we can spend the day, eat at the Deadrise Restaurant, which sits above the marina office, and spend the night. If you arrive by boat, you simply cross McNair Drive and walk through the grounds, across the boat and into the fort proper. Be sure to take a walk along the ramparts (we think they are called ramparts) as well as the grounds itself. See where Confederate President Jefferson Davis was briefly imprisoned after the war. See where young Robert E. Lee helped in planning the fort’s construction. Then, if they have reopened after the pandemic closures, be sure to treat yourself to the Casemate Museum and the new visitor center.

Shops Hampton’s old downtown is stronger on restaurants than shops, but there are a few we want to mention. You’ll want to visit the Virginia Store and Best of British, both in the same block of Settlers Landing between Old Hampton Lane and History Museum Way. On Queen Street you’ll find a few antique shops, like Mint Julep and Salvage Boyz. Then, be sure to cross Queen Street and walk into Hampton Stationery. It’s just about our favorite stop in Hampton, and once you see it, you’ll know why. The shop was started in 1932 in a former photo studio belonging to Happy Cheyne. The Cheyne Building was constructed in 1890. The stationery shop was purchased in 1957 by the Ishon family and is now owned by John Cabot Ishon. If you’re lucky, he’ll be there to show you around. Aside from all that, you’ll find lovely pens, stationery, leather bags, office furniture, which, yes, you probably are not in the market for right now, and even some Gill boating jackets and bags.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

H A M P TON

Hampton University Take a walk (or drive) across the U.S. 60 bridge and into the beautiful broad grounds of Hampton University, founded after the Civil War as an educational center for the area’s formerly enslaved people. We particularly recommend a visit to the Emancipation Oak on the northern edge of the campus and the Hampton University Museum, where you can add to our list of Hampton firsts. Founded in 1868, it is Virginia’s oldest museum, the nation’s oldest African-American museum and contains an extraordinary collection of art from all cultures, but particularly African American.

Events Hampton always draws a crowd for its two big annual events, the Blackbeard Pirate Festival in late May and the Hampton Jazz Festival in late June.

WHERE TO EAT Breakfast We are not recommending this nutritionally, of course, but your taste buds will thank us for mentioning Glazed Doughnuts, which is a block north of Queens Street on Wine Street. Another and potentially healthier breakfast option is Mango Mangeaux in the Phoebus neighborhood—open for lunch and dinner.

Everything else Oh, how can we decide what to recommend when there are so many choices? We’ll just rattle off a few and let you decide for yourselves. On Queens Way, we love to stop for a Reuben sandwich at Goody’s Deli & Pub, an absolute Hampton mainstay, and at Venture Kitchen & Bar for pizza, although we sometimes get tempted away for the tapas. Who could resist Brown Chicken Brown Cow, if only for the great name? But have a seat on the patio (dog friendly) and order a grass-fed happy-cow big burger and a cold local draft. You’ll be happy too. Then there’s Latitude 37 and Grey Goose . . . oh, gosh, there are so many, and they’re all good. At Fort Monroe, be sure to eat at the Deadrise, especially for its fresh local fish and produce as well as fun twists to old favorites. Owner Joe Illes, who has two other Hampton restaurants, Fuller’s Raw Bar, and El Diablo Loco Cantina, opened Deadrise a couple of years ago. We love it! Finally, we mentioned that Bluewater Yachts has its own Surf Rider restaurant. Owner Stanley Bennett just keeps customers coming in droves to his Surf Rider restaurants, and the Bluewater location is no exception. ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

CAPE CHARLES Here’s proof that you can’t keep a good town down. Welcome to the new Cape Charles! WHY YOU’LL WANT TO GO

C TRAVEL ................70

LODGING ............72

SIGHTS ................74

DINING ................76

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ape Charles and its one thousand inhabitants sit at one of the most exciting locations on the Chesapeake Bay—we’d go farther, but right now the Chesapeake is all we care about exploring, so we’ll leave it at that. If you were paying attention in history class, you might think its location was even more alluring in the 1880s, when the railroad finally came south from its terminus in Pocomoke, Md., and ended instead at Cape Charles Harbor, where people and goods were loaded aboard ferries and barges for the 36-mile trip to Norfolk, where the railroad picks up again. Or vice versa, of course. We bring up the railroad because if it weren’t for that, there would very likely not be any town of Cape Charles. We’ll get back to that in a minute. The completion of the Bay Bridge-Tunnel in 1964 threw a spanner in the engine of economic prosperity, so it has taken this little town at the end of the road a long time and a few false starts to come back. But here’s the important part: It’s back in a big way. It’s still a charming village full of historic homes with a tossed salad of architectural styles. And yes, life in town still centers on the old main street (Mason Ave.) and surrounding area with its one-of-a-kind hardware store, two

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Cape Charles Town Harbor

Visit Cape Charles

and you may just fall in love! • Protected basin steps from town • Modern bath house and showers • On-site restaurant, The Shanty • 96 deep-water slips to 170’ • Fuel dock, non-ethanol & diesel • Free public boat launch

(757) 331-2357 I CapeCharlesHarbor.com

CAPE CHARLES

boutique hotels, excellent bed and breakfasts, pubs, brewery, cider house, fresh seafood restaurant, and perfect pirate pizza. Cape Charles also has developed a second life outside of the original planned community but still within the town limits. An oyster house, two world-class golf courses, nature trails and more. And we haven’t even gotten to its most dazzling feature: a long, beautiful sparkling white sand beach! Yes, we’re pretty excited about Cape Charles.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND WHEN YOU GET HERE

u The old Eastern Shore Railroad

When you explore the section of town lying from the main street north, you’ll notice that the east-west streets are named for well-known Virginians, while the north-south streets are named for fruits. Sadly, the blocks nearest the beach were built later on filled land and have non-fruity-or-famous-Virginian names like Harbor and Bay Avenue. In any case, most of the businesses we’ll be talking about are located along Mason Avenue. Directly south of Mason lies a no-man’s land created by the old railroad tracks that end in a muddle of disuse at the harbor. Beyond that lies the very tidy city marina with its delicious Shanty restaurant, a good public boat ramp, workboat docks, and the Cape Charles Yachting Center. To finish up our quick tour, the Cape Charles Natural Area and the two Bay Creek golf courses lie to the south of the harbor, while the Oyster Farm Marina, Oyster Farm Seafood Eatery, and other allurements lie north of the old part of town along Kings Creek. Now that we have the lay of the land, let’s look at just some of the things there are to see and do in Cape Charles.

HOW TO GET HERE If you are arriving by boat Cape Charles is a fairly short hop across the mouth of the Chesapeake from Norfolk, Portsmouth and Hampton, about 25 nm or so, depending on your starting point. It’s easy to spot as you come across because of the several dozen cargo ships likely to be waiting in the Cape Charles anchorage a couple of miles off its entrance. You can access the Cherrystone Channel into the harbor from the shallower end (least depth 13 feet) at red “2C” or 3 nm farther north at green “1CC”. From either point, the channel is wide, deep, and well-marked all the way to the harbor entrance between the jetty and the cement plant. Cape Charles Town Harbor’s docks are straight ahead, with the boat ramps, fuel docks, workboat docks and then Cape Charles Yacht Center at the far end. Coming down the Bay, you’ll want to enter Cape Charles channel at green “1CC”. If you are headed for the Oyster Farm Marina, continue 1 nm past the harbor entrance and look for Kings Creek’s private markers. You will find that the channel is prone to shift, so you’ll want to call the dockmaster for advice before you arrive. If you are still uncertain, the marina may offer to send out a boat to guide you in. You are not allowed to anchor inside Cape Charles Harbor.

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

CHARTER FISHING •

CRUISES •

ECOTOURS •

FA M I LY T R I P S •

& MORE

Come experience The Eastern Shore with

(443) 553-0277

•

TWCHARTERS. COM

Cambridge, MD yachtmaintenanceco.com MAINTENANCE COMPANY

The facilities of a shipyard. The low cost of a neighborhood boatyard. The quality craftsmanship of a custom builder. With deep water access in Cambridge, our full time professional staff is poised to handle every aspect of boat building, repair and maintenance. GIVE US A CALL AND SEE HOW WE CAN HELP YOU!

410-228-8878

CAPE CHARLES

If you are trailering your boat in Arriving from the south, you will naturally come to the Eastern Shore by way of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. Then follow U.S. 13 north to S.R. 184 (Randolph Avenue). A left turn here will take you into town. Arriving from the north, you’ll be on U.S. 13 and, of course, make a right turn onto Randolph. You’ll find the boat ramps at the harbor between the town docks and the fuel dock. You can access this from Marina Road.

If you are launching a paddle-craft You have several options for launching your kayak. You could use the boat ramps, the town beach, or go up to the Oyster Farm docks off Kings Creek. Kings Creek is quite protected, but the open Bay can be rough, so keep an eye on the weather, winds, and current. There are some wonderful paddling spots in this area of the world, including Kiptopeake and the Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Area.

WHERE TO STAY Marinas

Oyster Farm Marina

Cape Charles Town Harbor

Cape Charles Yacht Center

500 Marina Village Cir 11 Marina Rd

1011 Bayshore Rd

POINTS OF INTEREST

Cape Charles Fun Pier

Watson’s Hardware

Rayfield’s Pharmacy

Central Park

Cape Charles Museum

Cape Charles Library

21 Bay Ave

225 Mason Ave 2 Fig St

217 Peach St 814 Randolph Ave 201 Mason Ave

ACCOMMODATIONS

Northampton Hotel

Hotel Cape Charles

Sea Gate Bed & Breakfast

Bay Haven Inn at Cape Charles

Cape Charles House

Alyssa House

Fig Street Inn

Here is a delightful option, no matter whether you arrived by car or boat. Cape Charles now has two entirely remodeled, updated, and utterly charming small hotels—the Northampton on Mason Avenue and the Hotel Cape Charles. The Hotel Cape Charles is located at Strawberry and Mason in the middle of downtown, but with balcony views of the harbor and a very short walk to the beach. The Cape Charles has been a hotel for more than a century, but it is updated in every way. The Northampton Hotel has announced that it will remain closed until 2021, due to the pandemic, but file it away for future visits. It opened in 2018 after a two-year restoration, and it’s beautifully updated, with a view of the Chesapeake Bay from every room.

Oyster Farm Cottages

We’ve touched on these already, but the good news is, they are all great marinas. If you have a deeper draft vessel, we recommend either Cape Charles Town Harbor or Cape Charles Yacht Center. The Yacht Center was specifically constructed to berth and service super-yacht-sized vessels. If you need service, especially anything that requires hauling your boat, the Yacht Center is your best and only option. On the other hand, if you are traveling with your kids, we recommend you put in at Oyster Farm Marina where you’ll find a big pool and lots of games. It also has its own beach. You can rent boats here and arrange for a charter excursion. The Oyster Farm Eatery is fun, and there’s even a dock bar with food. Here you can also arrange for a golf cart to drive everyone into downtown or rent bicycles.

Boutique hotels

MARINAS

1 Mason Ave

235 Mason Ave 9 Tazewell Ave

403 Tazewell Ave 645 Tazewell Ave

530 Randolph Ave 711 Tazewell Ave 500 Marina Village Cir

DINING

Oyster Farm Seafood Eatery

Brown Dog Ice Cream

Kelly’s Gingernut Pub

Cape Charles Coffee House

Bed & breakfasts

The Shanty

In a town this full of fine old Victorian homes, it’s no surprise that owners find the idea of turning them into bed & breakfasts irresistible. There is the handsome Bay Haven Inn of Cape Charles, the international décor of 110-year-old Alyssa House, and finally the antique furnishings and contemporary design of the Fig Street Inn.

Deadrise Pies

Buskey Cider

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

500 Marina Village Circle 203 Mason Ave 133 Mason Ave 241 Mason Ave 33 Marina Rd 425 Mason Ave 109 Mason Ave

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Fig St

ns et B

lvd

Kin gs

EB ay

Ba y

r yD

lon

Waters Edge Drive

Washington Ave

et Harbor Stre

e Bay Av

Bahama Rd

Fig St

T-1113

Strawberry St

Monroe Ave

Nectarine St

Pine St

T-1104

Charles Towne Dr

Peach St

Jefferson Avenue

Monroe Ave

Tazewell Ave

8 15 24

9 19

Mason Ave

3 2 a Rd

5 11 21

Marin

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

re R

sho

Bay

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

CAPE CHARLES

until 2021, due to the pandemic, but file it away for future visits. It opened in 2018 after a two-year restoration, and it’s beautifully updated, with a view of the Chesapeake Bay from every room.

Bed & breakfasts In a town this full of fine old Victorian homes, it’s no surprise that owners find the idea of turning them into bed & breakfasts irresistible. There is the handsome Bay Haven Inn of Cape Charles, the international décor of 110-year-old Alyssa House, and finally the antique furnishings and contemporary design of the Fig Street Inn.

Cottage rentals Cape Charles is even richer in cottage rentals than B&Bs. For a good list, take a look at the rental listings in the excellent Cape Charles by the Bay’s excellent website—capecharlesbythebay.com. In addition, you will find colorful and adorable little villas for rent from the Oyster Farm at Kings Creek.

WHAT TO DO Go to the beach Not many Chesapeake destinations can boast a half-milelong white-sand beach with dunes and a fishing pier, but there’s one right in town, an easy walk from the harbor marinas, downtown, the bed-and-breakfasts, and boutique hotels. You are welcome to fish from the town’s Fun Pier—no license needed—or simply watch the sun set over the Chesapeake Bay.

Browse the downtown shops

u Brown Dog Ice Cream

Cape Charles may be a small town, but it’s home to a wide variety of shops. That means that everyone from big to little and angler to chef will enjoy ambling through Mason Avenue’s wares. You can get hardware at Watson’s Hardware, but you can also get marine supplies, deck chairs, appliances, games, bicycles, clothes, beach balls, baskets, boots, stuffed animals, toy trucks, and Red Wing shoes. Okay, we’ll stop. But, really, there’s more. Stop by Rayfield’s pharmacy for drugstore items and their old-fashioned soda fountain. Then stroll up or down Mason Avenue and the mostlyfruity side streets to sample the goods at Gull Hummock Gourmet Market, Cape Charles Candy Company, Like a Sailor (eccentric) gift shop, Lemontree Gallery, Ellen Moore Gallery, and Drizzles tasting store. Want more? Check out Moonrise Jewelry, Love Letters, Bailey’s Bait & Tackle, and the Boardwalk.

Stroll through the historic district. Cape Charles has a remarkable collection of architecturally interesting homes, especially Victorians and Greek Revivals. The town’s original grid of Virginia statesmen versus types of fruits is still very much intact, so we recommend that you amble north up Peach, west (left) on Tazewell, then north (right) on Strawberry for

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Chesapeake Bays Favorite Boats!

Yacht dealer for Absolute, Sunseeker and Riviera See us at the Bay Bridge Boat Show April 17 to 19, Call us to schedule a demonstration ride after the show. Big Savings on 2019 Factory Demos. Sales Showroom open 7 days week

Marylands Largest Boat Dealer

W W W.G R A N D E YAC H T S . CO M 4 1 0 .2 8 6 .1 3 5 0 - G ra s o nvi ll e, MD

Grande MAG420.indd 1

•

Ste ve nsv ille, MD - 410. 413. 7094

Explore the Bay with Argo Download the FREE Argo Boating app and connect with thousands of other boaters. Custom Autorouting

Argo finds your best route based on your boat’s draft and the depth of the water.

Real-Time Reports

Use Argo’s crowdsourced reports to view and report hazards, map issues, and more!

Join the Community

Connect and share your experiences with other boaters via messages and posts.

Discover Local Hangouts

Search for places and read reviews, then save your favorites to your Captain’s Log.

FREE to download, FREE to use!

3/9/20 4:26 PM

CAPE CHARLES

a visit to Cape Charles’s lovely Central Park. Then, if you are still game, head east (left) on Monroe to Nectarine, then north to Jefferson. Take Jefferson west (left) to the beach. Finally trek back to town (left) on Bay Avenue, admiring the beachfront Victorians along the way. Once you are back at Mason, well done! Head straight to either Brown Dog for that double-dip ice cream cone or congratulate yourself at nearby Kelly’s Gingernut Pub with a cold and frosty brew. After that bit of refreshment, stop by the Cape Charles Museum to learn about the town’s fascinating history, then put on your reading glasses and amble over to the Cape Charles Library. It’s a beauty and the oldest on the Eastern Shore of Virginia.

Get out on the water. Ready for some fishing or paddle-sports? If you didn’t bring your own boat—or you just want to get out on a different kind of boat—it’s easily done. Cape Charles, not surprisingly, has charter boats aplenty. You can get a good line on them by talking with Cape Charles Harbormaster Charlie Farlow—757-331-2357. To rent a kayak, paddleboard or bicycle, get in touch with Southeast Expeditions, which also organizes some first-rate guided tours in several locations in the area. You can also arrange to rent paddle-craft at Oyster Farm Marina. Finally, you can just sit back and enjoy the ride if you book a tour with local residents, Capt. David and Anna Lee of Cape Charles Boat Tour Company. We’ll talk about some of the great places nearby to take your own boat in the side-trip section.

Get out on the golf course and the nature trail. It’s hard to run out of things to do around Cape Charles. Here are two more. Pull out your golf clubs and arrange for a ride to Bay Creek Resort’s two top-rated golf courses, one designed by Arnold Palmer and the other Jack Nicklaus. Both 18-hole courses are beautifully sandwiched between the Chesapeake Bay, the sand dunes and Old Plantation Creek. They are located south of the harbor, as is Bay Creek Resort’s fitness center, which includes pools, work-out rooms, and a splash zone and giant slide for kids. Okay, maybe adults too. Cape Charles Natural Area Preserve is also located south of the harbor. This is a terrific place to visit during the fall bird migrations. A long boardwalk will take you through the preserve’s various habitats, including beach (though no beach access), dunes, and marine loblolly pine woodland. The woodland area is especially alive with migrating songbirds. To get to the preserve from Cape Charles Harbor, follow Marina Road around the basin to Bayshore Drive, then south to Patrick Henry Avenue. The trail begins behind the kiosk.

WHERE TO EAT You’ve boated, fished, paddled, golfed, bird-watched, shopped and played in the surf. Isn’t it about time you got yourself something to eat? Naturally, like everything else in Cape Charles, there are too many choices for us to share here. So, we’ve picked out three of our favorites. For a more complete list, dial up that capecharlesbythebay.com website we mentioned earlier and take a look under “Dining.” So, everybody hungry? Let’s go!

Breakfast This is the easy one. We have a first cup of coffee on the boat and then walk over to Cape Charles Coffee House on Mason Avenue. It’s the place with a green

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

CAPE CHARLES

awning that looks like a bank—Because it was. (So was Kelly’s Gingernut Pub, which we mentioned earlier. Another great place, but not open for breakfast.) Because it was a bank and then a clothing store, Cape Charles Coffee House looks terrific. Its coffee is terrific too, and we usually go for café au lait and then order whatever our eyes first light on for breakfast, though the waffles and fruit are a favorite. Cape Charles Coffee opens at 8:00 a.m. and stays open for lunch. They have sandwiches too.

Lunch Here we start running into trouble, there are so many to choose from. But we are going to be resolute and go for The Shanty, which is located on the docks at Cape Charles Harbor. The fish is fresh and as local as can be. The menu even lists the watermen they buy from. We can’t resist the soft-shell BLT. Or the oyster po’boy. But then again, who can pass up a crabcake sandwich with pork belly, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickled ginger and siracha aioli? Even the paprika-fried Brussels sprouts are great. The Shanty also manages to concoct surprising original cocktails and serves up a good selection of local beers. There’s wine too, of course. And good iced tea.

Dinner We feel duty bound to pick out a favorite seafood restaurant for dinner too, so save room for the Oyster Farm Seafood Eatery. Like The Shanty (and a number of other Cape Charles restaurants), it features local seafood and local produce, but it also has fish from elsewhere, and great steaks. When we splurge, we share a “Seafood Tower” of oysters, clams and shrimp, lobster poke, and tuna salad. Of course, the fried oysters and clam-strips with hushpuppies shouldn’t be overlooked either. Nor should the fresh flounder.

Pizza Since we feel that pizza constitutes the fourth meal of the day, we will mention Deadrise Pies, which really is a pizza place, even though it sounds like a yeast that went wrong. It’s named for the classic watermen’s boats, of course. Our particularly favorite pie is the Arvor, which has prosciutto, pineapple, sun-dried tomato, basil, and onion. They are located on Mason Avenue, of course, and, like much of Cape Charles, closed on Mondays.

u The Avor at Deadrise Pies

Cider, bourbon and beer Here are two more Cape Charles originals and one Cape Charles branch. Cape Charles Distillery features small-batch bourbon, whiskeys, vodka, and moonshines. Stop by for craft cocktails too. Located on Strawberry Street, just off Mason. Cape Charles Brewing Company, like the distillery, opened in 2018. The brewery also serves pub-style lunch and dinner. Their production includes Assateague Island and Cobb Island IPAs, several varieties of ale, Smith Island Oyster Stout, a couple of wheat beers, and Ole Reliable lager. Buskey Cider on the Bay, a cider tasting house for the Richmond-based company. Here you can sample ciders galore, including but by no means limited to tart cherry, maple spiced and habanero mango. ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

Worldwide Yacht Sales | Yacht Charters | New Yacht Construction

2001 47’ Catalina - $198,000 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

2004 46’ Carver - $252,900 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

1988 44’ Ocean Yachts - $120,000 Mike Clark - 703.203.1893

1984 44’ CAL - $99,500 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

2006 43’ Beneteau - $178,900 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

1966 41’ Rhodes - $125,000 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295

2005 39’ Bertram - $229,000 Anthony Sayo - 757.427.4042

2012 34’ Nordic Tug - $244,500 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

2001 30’ Pursuit - $79,900 David Robinson - 410.310.8855

1982 28’ Herreshoff - $34,500 David Robinson - 410.310.8855

2013 27’ Cherubini - $237,000 Jack Kelly - 609.517.2822

1952 23’ Chris-Craft - $39,000 David Robinson - 410.310.8855

To see more details about these

and all o ther yac hts arou n

d the glo

be, please vis

it our website below.

Annapolis, MD • St. Michaels, MD • Delaware City, DE • Deltaville, VA • Woodbridge, VA Telephone: 410.919.4900 • Email: info@curtisstokes.net

www.curtisstokes.net

Chesapea

CBM CBM

from the editor from the editor

frommechanics, full-servicetechnicians, marinas to DIY lifts, and boatyards. Whatever you need chandleries to help out, rangingfor your full-service boat, there marinas are moretothan from DIY 400 marinas ready to helpyou out, ringing boatyards. Whatever need for the 11,000 miles of Bay shoreline, your boat, there are more than 400 so wherever Chesapeake marinas readyyour to help out, ringing

Shuck Covid Shuck Covid

Located:Thomaston, ME

adventures take of you, never the 11,000 miles Bayyou’re shoreline, farwherever from a safe place to tie up. so your Chesapeake

by Joe adventures takeEvans you, you’re never far from a safe place to tie up.

J J

by Joe Evans ay Fleming’s excellent account of the pandemic lockdown slurped. (Read all about fish peppers on page 26.) We effect on the Chesapeake seafood supply chain in our June rockefellered the next 25Price with pepper-jack, spinach, and a New Construction OBO! issue got us thinking about what we could do to brighten up garlic-butter/panko crust. Wepeppers grilled the rest and ate sponsored by ay Fleming’s excellent account of the pandemic lockdown slurped. (Read all about fish on page 26.)$875,000 Wethem $2,500,000 the community experience and enjoy oysters at home while with a fire-roasted, red-pepper, dipping sauce washed down effect on the Chesapeake seafood supply chain in our June rockefellered the next 25 with pepper-jack, spinach, and a 2013Bloodline 42’ Lyman-Morse waiting come. Out of the blue, a note came with Flying Dog brewery’s Blood-Orange issue gotfor us summer thinking to about what we could do to brighten up garlic-butter/panko crust. We grilled the rest and ate Ale. them sponsored by Annapolis, MD dipping in from Larry Jennings, a steadfast Coastal Conservation The overwhelming consensus wassauce that we shoulddown do that the community experience and enjoy oysters at home while withLocated: a fire-roasted, red-pepper, washed Association member, who was coordinating what was meant again, the very next weekend, perhaps on a smaller scale. akeBayMagazine.com July/August 2020 akeBayMagazine.com July/August 2020 waiting for summer to come. Out of the blue, a note came with Flying Dog brewery’s Bloodline Blood-Orange Ale. to from be a modest, Memorial Day weekend order from the Honga Referring to Fleming’s June article and listwe of direct, in Larry Jennings, a steadfast Coastal Conservation The overwhelming consensus wasits that should do that A good marina OysterJuly/August Company Bay-to-table Association member, who was coordinating what was meant again, the very next weekend, perhaps on a smaller scale. akeBayMagazine.com 2020based be many things. in be Toddville, Maryland. opportunities, we to a modest, Memorial Daycan weekend order from the Honga Referring to Fleming’s June article and its list of direct, A good marina The Honga River boys reached out to Oyster Company based Bay-to-table Hooper’s have provided oysters Island Oyster Company can be many things. in Toddville, Maryland. opportunities, we $129,900 $99,900 for CCA banquets for a (hoopersisland.com), The Honga River boys reached out to Hooper’s while, and thisoysters was a which has launched 1993 46’ Giorgi have provided Island Oyster Company way to support them. oyster pop-ups and for CCA banquets for a (hoopersisland.com), A launching pad for adventure, Located: Crownsville, MD The plan was to fetch partnerships at the while, and this was a which has launched a home away from home, the shellfish onthem. Friday Severna Park Shopping way to support oyster pop-ups and Aover launching pad for adventure, a safe harbor after a long voyage, and plan eat them the Village; Rosedale The was to fetch partnerships at theIce in a or home away from home, shelter from a storm. weekend. The Frederick, Glen Burnie the shellfish onminimum Friday Severna Park Shopping a safe harbor after a long voyage, order was a bag of 50 at and Baltimore; the and eat them over the Village; Rosedale Ice in the wholesale price. or shelter from a storm. Easton Farmer’s Market, weekend. The minimum Frederick, Glen Burnie my usualof 50 at and Baltimore; Emily’s Produce in orderOn was a bag and the$364,000 Whatever you need dog-walk, I asked my Cambridge. That made the wholesale price. Easton Farmer’s Market, for your boat, 2005 42’ Nordic Tugs neighbors they wanted the decision easy for in a On myifusual and Emily’s Produce Whatever you need there are more than in, and within themy hour quick trip toThat Severna Park dog-walk, I asked Cambridge. made Located: Galesville, MD had ordersiffor 400. Over withdecision a cooler, andfor wea for400 your boat, marinas neighbors they wanted the easy theand nextwithin two days, pickedtrip upto a collectable there areto more in, the hour quick Severna Park ready helpthan out, Jennings had t-shirt in the had orders for 400. Over ringing the 400 with a cooler,bargain. and we marinas 11,000 miles commitments for more In these times, it’s the next two days, picked up a collectable ready toshoreline, help out, of Bay than 6,000 and the helpfulintothe recognize and Jennings had t-shirt bargain. ringingsothe 11,000 miles wherever your Honga Oyster crew consolidate goodit’s that commitments for more In thesethe times, of Bay shoreline, Chesapeake adventures take you, began harvesting and develops from crisis. $84,500 than 6,000 and the helpful to recognize and so wherever you’re never far your from bagging the bivalves Otherwise, the it’s just allthat Honga Oyster crew and consolidate good 2008 36’ bad. Jeanneau Chesapeake a safe place take to tieyou, up. loadingharvesting ice-chests for the adventures I seefrom that crisis. we are began and develops you’re never far from trip to Annapolis. We much more interested bagging the bivalves and Otherwise, it’s just all picked them up viafor a no-contact drive-by at Jenning’s driveway now in the well-being of others, essentially as their status place to tie up. loading ice-chests the a safe bad. I see that we are andtodropped themWe off around my community on the way back. mirrors our own. In the absence of normal, a new normal trip Annapolis. much more interested Everybody and waiting, of course. develops engage us,ofsustain and holdas ustheir together. picked themwas up home via a no-contact drive-by at Jenning’s driveway now in thetowell-being others,us, essentially statusToday, On Saturday, as folks got their oyster knives out and fired we are developing even more enthusiasm and appreciation and dropped them off around my community on the way back. mirrors our own. In the absence of normal, a new normal up their grills, texting posting began, and for the next for community oysters and theus, folks who provide them.Today, Everybody wasthe home and and waiting, of course. develops to engage us, sustain and hold us together. threeOn days, we were a vibrant, social neighborhood again, Soon, it will beeven steamed Like now, we’ll Saturday, as folks got their oyster knives out and fired we are developing morecrabs. enthusiasm and and appreciation celebrating with definitive Chesapeake persevere andspecialize share photos, hot sauce, well wishes We selling up their grills, thethe texting and posting began,morsel, and forand the next for community oysters andinthe folks whoand provide them. over high quality boats crabs. & aimLike now, and we’ll cold beer. the fence. three days, we were a vibrant, social neighborhood again, Soon, it will be steamed to sell in under 90 days! Since you asked: At my house, we immediately shucked a celebrating with the definitive Chesapeake morsel, and persevere and share photos, hot sauce, and well wishes over dozen, added dashes of Woodberry Kitchen’s exquisite Snake cold beer. the fence. joe@chesapeakebaymagazine.com Oil fish-pepper sauce At (snakeoilhotsauce.com), and we Since you asked: my house, we immediately shucked a

C O M P L I M E N TA R Y

DOCKAGE TILL SOLD

Check out some of the best

dozen, added dashes of Woodberry Kitchen’s exquisite Snake marinas the Bay has to offer at 2020 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com July/August 10 Oil fish-pepper sauce (snakeoilhotsauce.com), and we chesapeakebaymagazine.com/marinas Check out some of the best

marinas the Bay has to ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

offer at 2020 July/August

443.223.7864

joe@chesapeakebaymagazine.com

YACHTVIEW.COM

Featured Brokerage 54’ 2015 Riviera - Belize 54 DayBridge ...... $1,150,000 53’ 1971 Hatteras 53 MY ................................... $118,500 53’ 2004 Oyster 53 CC ........................................ $409,000 51’ 1983 Passport 51 ........................................... $225,000 50’ 2011 Jeanneau 50 DS .................................. $229,000 50’ 1988 Transworld - Fantail 50 .................... $240,000 49’ 2020 Jeanneau SO 490 - Our Docks .............. CALL 48’ 1990 Ocean Yachts 48 MY .......................... $115,000 47’ 2010 Monte Carlo 47 ................................... $459,000 45’ 2003 Cabo Rico 45 ................................................ CALL 45 2017 Hanse 455.............................................. $344,500 44’ 1993 Island Packet 44 .................................. $119,900 44’ 2001 Carver 444............................................. $189,900 44’ 1982 Cape Cod - Mercer 44 .......................... $49,000 44’ 2009 Tartan 4400........................................... $399,900 44’ 2021 Jeanneau SO 440 - September.............. CALL 43’ 2003 Saga 43 ................................................. $192,000 43’ 2018 Tartan 4300........................................... $569,900 43’ 1984 C&C Lanfall 43 ............................................. CALL 42’ 2002 Comfortina 42 .................................... $149,900 42’ 2006 Legacy 42 ..................................................... CALL 42’ 2001 Catalina 42 Mk II ................................ $135,000 42’ 2018 Legacy 42 - IPS Drives....................... $649,000

41’ 2021 Jeanneau SO 410 -- September ............ CALL 40’ 2013 Marlow Hunter 40 ............................. $172,000 40’ 1977 Gulfstar Custom Hood 40 .................. $98,500 40’ 1987 Tartan 40 - MD ..................................... $117,500 40’ 1998 Pacific Seacraft 40 ............................. $240,000 40’ 2015 Marlow Hunter 40 ............................. $184,900 40’ 1985 Tartan 40 - FL ....................................... $107,900 40’ 1977 Gulfstar Hood 40 ................................ $119,000 40’ 1998 J Boat - J / 120 ........................................ $99,000 40’ 1998 Pacific Seacraft 40 ............................. $295,000 38’ 2006 C&C 115 ................................................. $139,000 38’ 1986 Vagabond 38........................................... $85,000 38’ 1984 Irwin 38 CC .............................................. $59,900 37’ 2005 Island Packet 370 .............................. $235,000 37’ 1979 Tartan 37c ................................................ $44,900 37’ 2006 Beneteau 373 ...................................... $100,000 37’ 1998 Pacific Seacraft - Clealock 37 ......... $119,000 37’ 2016 Beneteau 37 ......................................... $179,900 37’ 1995 Island Packet 37 ................................. $105,000 37’ 2004/6 Tartan 3700 - 2 on way ......................... CALL 36’ 2003 Bavaria 36 ............................................... $74,900 36’ 2008 Hunter 36 ................................................ $79,500 36’ 2001 Catalina 36 mk II ................................... $65,000

36’ 2020 Tartan 365 # 2 - Annapolis .............. $355,000 36’ 2019 Legacy 36 # 8 - Annapolis .............. $575,000 35’ 2016 SeaRay 350 SLX ................................... $219,500 35’ 1984 Wauquiez Pretorien .............................. $49,000 35’ 1993 Tartan 3500................................................ $7,900 35’ 1986 Baltic 35 ......................................................... CALL 35’ 2001 Tartan 3500 .................................................. CALL 34’ 1990 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 34 ............... $89,000 34’ 2021 Jeanneau SO 349 - Our Docks ............... CALL 33’ 2014 Marlow Hunter 33 ................................. $89,900 33’ 2015 Tartan 101 ..................................................... CALL 31’ 2017 Hanse 315 ............................................. $139,900 31’ 2006 Catalina 310 ........................................... $69,500 31’ 2015 Ranger Tug - Command Bridge .... $249,900 31’ 1997 Camano 31 Trawler ............................... $84,500 31’ 2000 Catalina 310 ........................................... $44,900 30’ 2015 C&C 30 ...................................................... $95,000 28’ 2003 Alerion Express 28 .............................. $64,000 28’ 1990 Custom - Bingham 28 ......................... $65,000 28’ 1983 Shannon 28 ............................................ $68,000 27’ 1992 Nor’Sea 27 .............................................. $43,000 26’ 2007 Everglades 260 CC ................................ $74,500 24’ 1989 Dana 24 - on Way ....................................... CALL

20639 Andrew Road Rock Hall, MD • $950,000

22598 Davis Creek Drive Rock Hall, MD • $4,250,000

Contemporary 4BR/2.5BA home is situated on 5.4 acres with sweeping lawns down to Swan Creek. Sunny interior with floor to ceiling windows that bring the outdoors in. Deep water slip. S C O T T ’ S

215 S Water Street $799,000 4BR 3.5BA 217 S Water Street $829,000 3BR 3.5BA

217

215

P O I N T

Winding Creek House is nestled on 56 acres on Davis Creek in perfect harmony with the tranquil and naturally beautiful Eastern Shore setting. Expert craftsmanship and style are seen throughout the home. C H E S T E R T O W N

M D

• Chester River • 2 deeded boat slips per unit • 2800 square feet • Historic Chestertown • Walk to shops & restaurants

mcarlisle@cbchesapeake.com 114B Cross Street Chestertown, MD 21620 • O: 410-778-0330 ChestertownHomeSearch.com • C: 410-703-3820

garrett

Realty Partners Building Futures Together

garrett Realty Partners presents

COASTAL VIRGINIA’S finest $1,100,000

$1,200,000

WilliamsburG Waterfront

AMAZING home on James River w/ wonderful privacy!! Only 10-15 minutes to almost EVERYTHING. 106ft of riverfront. 1st floor master, walk out basement, glass balcony, patio, bulkhead, pier, boat lift!

$599,000

$895,000

suffolk Waterfront

Located off Bennett Creek! Custom Mediterranean style home offers wide river views, gourmet chef ’s kitchen, 2 story great room. Lots of natural light , stunning master bath, 4 car garage.

$599,000

old Port cove Waterfront

Deep Water Access!!! Birch transitional w/ dock & boathouse (currently holding a 33’ Formula Sport Cruiser). Enclosed back porch has plenty of natural light. BIG deck and LARGE master bedroom.

$575,000

nortH Waterfront

12+ acres of privacy! Own your own beautifully landscaped peninsula with water on 3 sides! No flood insurance required! Canoe, fish, swim off your floating pier, enjoy the fire pit, or bird watch!

$529,900

$575,000

colonial acres Waterfront

DEEP water! 7’ deep at the end of dock according to seller. 1.7 acres with lots of shoreline! Located on Salt Ponds with no bridge to go under to bay! Massive deck on 1st level, deck off master bedroom.

Horn Harbor Waterfront

WytHe Waterfront

Overlooking Hampton Roads Harbor watching every ship that comes in the Virginia Port as it passes by as well as small boats, wildlife, porpoises etc. Potential 1st & 2nd floor master bedrooms.

$399,000

JUST A SHORT RIDE TO THE BAY!! This well maintained beauty is over 4900 sqft., offers 3BR, 3.5 baths & is situated on 3.54 acres!! Large 12’ x 37’ deck & a private dock with built-in benches.

757-879-1504 s 1-800-GARRETT

Gloucester Waterfront

5 acres of privacy! Enjoy the sounds of nature from this 19th Century farmhouse with upgrades and improvements throughout. Estate includes in ground pool and tennis court. Charming sunroom view!

smitHfield

DEEP WATER!!! Beautiful view of the Pagan River located next to Smithfield Station! The value is in the land! Property is being sold as-is/where is.

greg@ggrva.com

Greg Garrett

QUICK ACCESS TO THE CHESAPEAKE BAY FROM SMALL WATERFRONT TOWNS GET YOUR BAY & COUNTRY COMBO!

JUST LISTED

BEACH ROAD ESTATE Rappahannock River off Chesapeake Bay $2,150,000

Huge Views & Private 11 Acres Infinity Pool & Spa - Pier with 7+’MLW Boat Ramp - 1300+/- Feet of Sand Beach 6500 SF Home - 1st Fl. Master Suite Coastal & Open Floor Plan - 7 Bedrooms Detached 3-Bay Garage with Apartment Above

JUST LISTED

Huge Views & Deep Water Depth 7-8’MLW Pier with PVC Pilings, Water, & Electricity 1-Floor Living Open Living, Kitchen, Dining & Family Room 3 Bedrooms, 2 Baths - Attached Garage Detached Workshop w/Bath

Visit our Website for Videos, detailed information & More! Serving All Northern Neck & Middle Peninsula H O R S L E Y R E A L E S TAT E . C O M

HERON COTTAGE

Indian Creek off Chesapeake Bay $799,000 Voted Best Real Estate Firm 7 Consecutive Years!

Call/Text: David Dew 804.436.3106 Katie Horsley Dew 804.436.6256 DavidEDew@gmail.com HorsleyRE@yahoo.com

Social distancing never looked so good.

1314 LAUREL POINT ROAD ~ LANCASTER Beautifully updated 4 bedroom 3.5 bath turn-key river home. $799,000

39 LONG LANE COURT ~ WHITE STONE Deep water protected harbor. 5,400 square feet including garage apartment. Four garage bays. $965,000

1000 QUEENSTOWN ~ LANCASTER Spectacular views from this 2014 built open floor plan home with pool, screened porch and ample outdoor living spaces. $1,500,000

GET RURAL at www.braggco.com 400 SOUTH MAIN STREET | KIL MARNOCK, VA 22482 | 804-435-2299 4341 IRVINGTON ROAD | IRVINGTON, VA 22480 | 804-436-7337

Your Northern Neck & Middle Peninsula of Virginia Real Estate Specialists

Property websites include 3D tours! Virtually tour all our listings! www.CockrellCreek.com

www.IndianCreekWaterfront.com

Beautifully updated Reedville farmhouse with big water views, new dock w/ lift, waterside pool, guest apartment over multi-car garage and more! Minutes to the Bay by boat.

This home was custom designed to take advantage of the private point of land with over 3 acres and 900 ft. of water frontage. It is located close to town amenities with a deep water dock on Indian Creek.

$1,050,000

$949,000

www.JacksonCreekCondo.com

www.GreatWicomicoRiver.com

Set sail worry free! This corner unit condo has water views, updated kitchen & waterfront deck. Community offers boat slip at protected dock complex, waterside pool, sand beach and kayak launch.

Waterfront Farmhouse with updated kitchen and tons of charm. This property has huge river views with a shared dock & designated boat lift on a protected creek.

$309,000

$599,000

Please visit our property websites to view interactive ﬂoor plans, aerials, maps and more!

804.724.1587

www.BeverlyShultz.com

EASTERN NORTH CAROLINA OFFERS

Chesapeake Lifestyle at half the cost

O R I E N T A L- T H E B O A T I N G C A P I T A L O F N C

REEM MO OD DEELLIINNGG R

Specializinginin Specializing FRONT HOMES HOMES WATER -- FRONT WATER

WATERF RONT L IV I N G E X P E RTS

CREATIVE SPACES SPACES CREATIVE

2962 Brown Creek Rd, Merritt 3 Bed / 3.5 Bath $819,500 | 3,215 ft2

You can have it all! A superlative waterfront residence on deep Brown Creek on 3.9acres. Constructed with the utmost care & with the finest materials. Soaring wood-coffered walls & ceilings of the living room, the wood-lined gourmet’s kitchen, intimate bar area & the numerous ironwood porches & entertainment areas. Each bedroom offers an ensuite bath, privacy & fabulous views! The huge workshop has unlimited possibilities. End your day with a dip in the whirlpool & watch the sun set over your deepwater dock.

127 Pier Point Dr S, Oriental 3 Bed / 3 Bath $815,000 | 3,790 ft2 An unquestionable masterpiece both dramatic & warmly comfortable on deep Broad Creek! Custom designed for the finest of waterfront lots. Modern in design yet traditional in its extensive woodwork, flourishes & meticulous detail! Climate-controlled workshop w/ 220 volt power, opening to a 15’3’’x18’7’’ porch. A large private office, 2 separate garages, elevator, private master wing w/ ensuite bath (Italian glass and tile), expansive kitchen, home theatre, concrete dock has 6’-7’ depth, boat ramp & so much more. The entire home & garages built above 100-yr flood zone on compacted soil & never flooded!

A A DESIGN-BUILD DESIGN-BUILD FIRM FIRM Providing COVID-19 Safe Practices Full Architectural Services for the Safety of our Clients Clear Communication andtoour Staff Proven Design Construction System Extraordinary Custom Homes •Craftsmanship Full Remodels Additions • Outdoor Spaces Custom Homes • Full Remodels remodelthebay.com Additions • Outdoor Spaces

410.867.0407 remodelthebay.com 410.867.0407

146 Morning Side Dr N, Arapahoe 3 Bed / 4 Bath $749,999 | 4,009 ft2

Tranquil, waterside living at its best! Enjoy a tremendous open floor plan with sight lines from gourmet kitchen through three family living spaces out to an 860 SqFt screened porch with water views of Dawson Creek plus a hot tub that stays with the property. With more than an acre that includes multiple garden spaces, you have a retreat where you can relax and enjoy indoor and outdoor living

22826 Hwy 55, Oriental NC | 252.249.9800

T I D E WAT E R C O U N T RY. C O M

• rentals • classes • lessons • tours at Paradise Marina

6124 Drum Point Road, Deale 443.221.9732 www.chesapeakepaddlesports.com

production by Blaire

Swim Jellyfish Free! Finally

A Fuel Additive That Really Works

We Can Prove It! DAN LOWERY, DISTRIBUTOR (540)270-0567

■

BUY ONLINE

WWW.FORMULAX2MIDATLANTIC.COM

Enjoy a refreshing swim on a hot summer day with no jellyfish stings to ruin the fun. Launch & retrieve the 8’, 12’, or 20’ diameter Nettle Net in minutes from your boat or dock. No storage worries. The 12’ pool stores in a bag about the size of a basketball. Starting at $499.95.

Nettle Net® BOAT POOL® Keeping jellyfish out since 1978.

www.nojellyfish.com • 800.962.9020 88

W E E K E N D S O N T H E WAT E R

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

An Average Tow is $750

LET US PICK UP THE TAB

UNLIMITED TOWING $159* Breakdowns happen more often than you’d expect...pay a little now to avoid an expensive bill later. Get a BoatU.S. Unlimited Towing Membership today, for a year of worry-free boating.

GET THE APP – IT’S THE FASTEST WAY TO GET A TOW

JOIN TODAY! BoatUS.com/Towing or 800-395-2628

*One year Saltwater Membership pricing. Details of services provided can be found online at BoatUS.com/Agree. TowBoatU.S. is not a rescue service. In an emergency situation, you must contact the Coast Guard or a government agency immediately.

DOCK DORCHESTER Enjoy scenic waterways, free boat ramps, and dockside dining

Whether you’re on a Chesapeake Bay tour, cruising to a dinner destination or looking to land the big one, there are plenty of choices for docking and launching your favorite watercraft in Dorchester County, Maryland. Explore the Choptank, Little Choptank, Honga and Nanticoke rivers. Weave our narrow cuts for rockfish, perch and snakehead action. End your day with some dockside dining and revelry.

HEART OF THE CHESAPEAKE

DORCHESTER water moves us

VisitDorchester.org 410.228.1000