Chickpea magazine #28 earth
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@alexandra_kaye Alexandra recently graduated from SUNY Brockport with her MA in English Lit. A Rochester native, she has a passion for traveling and living abroad, and has twice studied at Oxford University. Her joys in life are simple: a warm cup of tea, a good book, cozy blankets, and her cats.
caseyjoylister.com @pinch_dash_glug Casey lives on the west coast of Australia in a little house near the beach, with a sprawling veggie garden and her dog, Maple. She loves cooking healthy vegetarian meals (especially using homegrown vegetables and native Australian edible plants), freelance writing, photography, art and music. Her desert island dish is spaghetti. The only food she dislikes is dill. She has cultivated a biological resistance to the effects of chilli and garlic.
@figandblack Emily is a lover of all things plants - from food and farming to forests and fair-trade. She's personally experimented with a wide range of plant-based diets, but found her true passion lies in locally grown, sustainably produced foods. When she's not writing, she spends every moment she can outdoors, soaking in the beauty of the natural world.
alittlebaker.com @jessicabose @littlebakerjess Jessica is a baker and blogger with an affinity for exploring the grand outdoors, growing her own food, and living minimally. When she's not dancing to 80s music around her kitchen, you can be sure to find her out on a trail somewhere between Utah and California.
Courtney Tyler is a freelance writer based out of the Niagara region of Canada. She is a passionate vegan with a background in biochemistry who loves sharing original plantbased recipes on her food and lifestyle blog.
jennyrosee.com @thejennyrosee A freelance writer and vegan lifestyle blogger who loves to create worlds with her words.
Maia Welbel is a writer and sustainable food activist living in Chicago. She is passionate about vegan baking, and using storytelling to help people treat our planet with more compassion. She is also a dancer with Cocodaco Dance Project.
coutellerie.pl @coutellerie.pl Marianna is an art historian by education, a food lover, chef and photographer by passion. She is always thrilled to explore the person and story behind a meal. Born and raised in Warsaw, Poland, she is a traveler hungry for all kinds of local flavors.
kuebiko.co @bextyers @rebecca__tyers beautyforthebrain.com @beautyforthebrain
thankfulvegan.com @thankfulveganblog
maiawelbel.com @mwelbel @maiawelbel
Kasia is a vegan blogger with a passion for writing and a huge love for furry critters all over the planet. Writing is the name saving animals is the game.
lsashagora.com @lsashag L. Sasha Gora is a writer and cultural historian with a focus on food history and contemporary art. (Often separately but sometimes together.) A Torontonian by birth (and at heart), she studied in Montreal, Copenhagen, and Gothenburg, and now lives in Munich, where she writes, teaches, cooks, and eats a lot of pretzels.
Rebecca is a freelance food & sustainability writer, based in London, UK. She is passionate about making our food system more sustainable, open and locally focused. She loves growing food and dreams of running her own farm/animal sanctuary one day.
foodandlore.wordpress.com @sssydneytaylor @mllesydney Sydney Taylor scribbles words out of her tiny apartment in NYC. She always has a cup of coffee by her side, enjoys pasta for dinner on a regular basis, and gets too excited about finding books on the street. On any given day, Sydney is probably watching Gilmore Girls or baking brownies, or both.
Words & Photos by Marianna Medynska
While some of us are lucky to own a vegetable garden – or at least have easy access to trusted farmer’s markets – others may have difficulties obtaining naturally grown, organic products. Regardless of the conditions you might (not) have for any farming activity, sprouts are the way to go. Growing them requires no experience, no special tools or space, and an absolute minimum of your time and attention. Accept the challenge, and in two days from now you’ll be wondering why it took you so long to try. Sprouting at home is no different than the natural process of germination of a plant. It makes foods easier to digest by breaking down anti-nutrients that can limit our absorption of their minerals, and make them less friendly for our stomachs (in particular certain beans and grains.) It also results in increase of vitamins and protein content, which is important for a plant-based diet.
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First step is getting the raw material you are about to work with. You can buy seeds of various plants, from kale or radish to mustard and alfalfa, designated for sprouting. However, and more importantly, you can sprout ingredients that you probably snack on or cook with on a daily basis. Try your favorite beans (like chickpeas, mung beans or lentils,) grains (buckwheat, spelt or oat groats, millet, and even rice,) and nuts & seeds (like almonds, sunflower seeds or quinoa.) Introducing them in your kitchen in a sprouted form could be revolutionary. You might use them exactly the way you did without sprouting, which will add extra nutrition to your favorite dishes. Or you can rediscover them completely and get inspired to use them in ways you’ve never tried before. Whichever you choose, use the best quality seeds, grains or nuts you can find. You are about to sprout them to activate their inner power and bring out all that is best in them – be sure to make that effort for fresh and naturally grown supplies that do have the good stuff inside!
First step is soaking the seeds, grains or beans in clear, filtered water. It’s essential to wake them up and get them going. Rinse them and wash thoroughly, then place in a bowl or a container and cover with 2-3 times their amount of water. The required time of soaking varies for different seeds, but you don’t have to be extremely precise. 8-10 hours is optimal for most of them, but you could let them soak for up to 24 hours – especially the bigger ones like chickpeas.
Once your seeds are soaked, rinse them again with fresh water. Now they are ready to sprout and it is time for you to decide which method you are going to use to help them. All they will need is a proper rinsing twice a day, with no standing water left afterwards, and in good environment – they want to be kept in warm room temperature, far from direct sunlight, with free airflow provided. Although there’s a lot to choose from on the sprouting equipment shelf, you don’t need any fancy tools. Everything that might come handy is most likely in your cupboard already! There are several ways to sprout at home – choose one that suits your style.
This is probably the most popular practice,
Even easier than using a jar, the colander
Last but not least, it is okay to buy a
both among sprouting beginners and
method requires literally nothing but a
dedicated toolkit for sprouting. They come
experts. All you need is a jar (or several
colander. Simply leave your sprouts after
in different sizes and shapes, and apart from
of them,) a piece of cheesecloth and some
each rinsing and let them do the magic
their functionality, can be a decorative
rubber bands. Put the seeds in the jars,
before your eyes. It works best for small
element on your kitchen counter. Go for one
cover them with the cloths and secure them
amounts of sprouts, as they should not pile
that is made with organic materials rather
tightly with rubber bands. Find a place
up – they all need relatively good access to
than plastic. Natural clay is a perfect choice,
where you can conveniently put the jars
the air. You can use various kinds of sieves,
as it keeps the sprouts’ environment dark
upside down at around a 45-degree angle
too. My favorite is a Japanese bamboo
and humid (thanks to the porous structure
(e.g. a dish rack.) That way after you rinse
basket called zaru.
of clay, which maintains moisture.)
your sprouts, all the excess water can drain and the air is flowing freely.
Having chosen and arranged the equipment for sprouting, all you need to do is rinse your sprouts twice a day with fresh, filtered water. And be patient – depending on the kind of sprouts you are going for, it can take from 1 to 4 days for them to be ready. During summer (or in warm climate) you don’t need to wait long, as the little white tails may appear after a couple of hours.
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Sprouts on different stages can be useful in different recipes – some are best very fresh and tender, others should wait and become almost leafy green and crunchy. Watch them well and decide at what time you want to start the consumption. If you want to store your sprouts, dry them well before transferring to a container. Put in the fridge, where they will keep for around one week.
Serves 4 Ingredients 2 cups sprouted buckwheat 1 large banana 5 fresh dates, pitted 1 tbsp vanilla extract pinch of salt 1/2 – 1 cup coconut milk toppings of choice, e.g. seasonal fruits and date syrup
Instructions Put all the ingredients except for coconut milk in a blender. Start mixing on high speed and slowly add coconut milk, just enough to reach the thickness you like most (I usually make it on a thinner side.) Stop blending when the mixture is creamy and smooth. Transfer to bowls and top with a few extra sprouted buckwheat groats, seasonal fruits and date syrup. Or with anything else you desire!
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Serves 4 as a side dish
Serves 4 Ingredients 2 cups sprouted chickpeas
Ingredients
Instructions
1 cup sprouted green lentils
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the
1/2 cup whole almonds
almonds on a baking sheet and roast
a handful of greens of choice (e.g.
them for 8-12 minutes, until golden
romaine, spinach, arugula)
and fragrant. Set aside to cool. In
1 cup packed parsley leaves
5 small apricots, halved
the meantime, steam sprouted green
2 small garlic cloves, peeled
a handful of cherries, pitted
lentils until they’re cooked al dente
1/2 medium white onion juice of 1/2 lemon 1 tsp ground cumin 1/2 tsp ground coriander 1/2 tsp cinnamon 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
(around 10 minutes.) Mix the rest of
Citrus Dressing
the components (greens, apricots and
juice of 1 lemon
cherries) in a large salad bowl. Add
1 tsp maple syrup
cooked lentils. Put all ingredients for
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil a splash of tamari or soy sauce
the dressing in a jar and shake well to combine. Pour over the salad bowl, mix and garnish with chopped almonds.
1/2 tsp salt 2-3 tbsp cold water (or more, as needed) vegetable oil for frying Instructions 1. Put all the ingredients apart from water and oil in a food processor and pulse. It should remain slightly coarse. Add water, one tablespoon at a time, just enough to make the mixture sticky and easy to shape in your hands. Refrigerate for at least one hour.
Serves 2-4 Ingredients
Notes
1 cup sprouted sunflower
Use very fresh (1-2 days old) sprouted sunflower seeds
seeds
in this recipe. The longer they sprout, the spicier they
1 1/2 - 2 cups water
get. They also turn green and crunchy, which is great
cover the surface. Form the mixture into
1 small tonka bean
for salads, but makes the milk less creamy.
thick, round patties and fry them on
pinch of salt
medium heat on both sides until nicely
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
brown. Transfer to a plate lined with
1/3 cup agave syrup, or
2. Heat oil in a shallow pan, enough to
paper towel to get rid of excess oil. 3. Serve with tahini sauce, fresh and cooked
to taste ice cubes to serve
Instructions Put seeds in a blender along with fresh water. Finely grate half of your tonka bean (it’s hard, so it’s best to use a microplane or another sharp zester) and add it to the blender with salt and turmeric. Mix on high speed for 2
vegetables, in a bun, or any way you like.
minutes or until smooth. Strain the mixture through a nut bag or a piece of muslin
They are best enjoyed right away (while
cloth. Squeeze out the last drop (save the leftover pulp for a spread or baked goods.)
the outside is delightfully crispy,) but
Grate the other half of tonka bean and mix it with the milk. Sweeten with maple
can be stored or enjoyed as takeaway or
syrup to taste (the spicier the aftertaste, the sweeter it should be). Serve ice cold, as
picnic food, as well.
a refreshing alternative to iced coffee. r
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Interv
16
iew &
sic by Jes s o t o Ph
a Bose
Chickpea magazine #28 earth
practices and veganism.
About an hour northeast of Los
a small promise to myself that I
Angeles, in a valley of canyons
would do my best to capture this
just past the ever-popular Vasquez
experience and put it into words.
As
Farm Sanctuary is a safe home for
speaking “bahhh” and the clucks
animals, who have been abused in
of
factory farms, to live out their
the Interim Shelter Manager. We
happiest lives. The sanctuary was
walked through the entrance and
founded
Rocks, lies a freeway exit leading to the town of Acton, California, home
of
Farm
Sanctuary,
the
most wholehearted animal rescue community
I
have
ever
stepped
I
exited
greeted
by
chickens
my
car,
sounds along
I of
with
was sheep Jess,
Baur,
into the shaded courtyard on a
author and animal rights activist.
path to her office. Inside, the
Since then, it has developed into
walls were lined with files and
few times, and each visit, I’ve
the
and
cans of Amy’s vegan soups. There
found
foot in. I’ve
visited
the
sanctuary
a
in
1986
leading
by
animal
Gene
rescue
the
protection organization with farms
were large windows decorated with
care that goes into ensuring the
in both New York and California.
hanging plants, and through them,
rescued animals are safe, happy,
Each
in
I could still hear the soothing
and healthy. As I pulled down a
advocating compassion for animals
sound of happy animals having mid-
stretch of desert road and up to
through
morning conversations.
the front gate once more, I made
the subjects of improper farming
myself
in
awe
over
location
plays
providing
a
role
education
on
into a slaughterhouse or areas of neglect and abuse, it is highly rewarding to see to see the animals come to life after a few days at Farm Sanctuary. If I could help beings in need all day long, I would do that.
WHAT IS A PART OF THE JOB Y OU DIDN’T EXPECT? JESS/ As you know, you’re going to love your job and be stoked to work with farm animals, but I didn’t realize how much I would fall in love with all of the people I am working with. I see them giving their all everyday. From educating school kids, to building barns and safe places for animals, to providing actual care and feed for the animals, etc.
I
definitely
didn’t
expect
the
overwhelming
feeling of: heck yes! I am working with all of these badasses!? That is incredible! I am so in awe that I get to be a part of this.
ANY ADVICE TO AN ASPIRING C AREGIVER? CAN YOU TELL ME A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOUR ROLE HERE AT FARM SANCTUARY? J E S S / I am the Interim Shelter Manager here. As the manager, I work doing healthcare shifts and oversee the staff and all of the animals, so I do everything from reports to rescues, to scheduling.
IF YOU COULD DO ONE TASK ALL DAY, WHAT WOULD IT BE? JESS/ Cuddle sheep, rub pig bellies, hug cows, and of course, kiss turkeys! Just kidding, but wouldn’t that be great? Honestly, I would do rescue every day. Though it is emotionally tolling because you’re going
JESS/ Volunteer, volunteer, volunteer beforehand. Go onto the website and look at volunteer or intern positions. Often people think, oh I would love to work with farm animals, but have never held a chicken or been pooped on by turkey, so they don’t realize it’s not an easy job. Get your hands dirty and see if it’s really for you, and if it is, we’d love to have you.
IF YOU HAD TO CHOOSE A FAVO RITE ANIMAL HERE, WHO WOULD THAT BE? JESS/ There’s so many animals here that I’m madly in love with! Sandy the turkey is one of my special girls and Saffron the cow is my guy, but really, there are so many more!
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I took a brief break to venture into the barn where I met up with Junip, one of the pigs, who was happy to wake from her mid-day nap in the shade in exchange for a belly rub. Junip is one of several pigs here at the sanctuary that have been rescued from the agricultural business, and when I look into her eyes, I can’t help but feel relief and comfort in knowing that this is a safe place for animals like Junip to live and interact with one another. With complete freedom, farm animals can run around, play, and live out their lives as “residents” as Tuba, one of the caregivers, refers to the animals.
WHAT IS YOUR ROLE HERE AS A CAREGIVER?
led me to farm sanctuary
so funny and fascinating
and
to
TUBA/ My role here is
CAN YOU SHARE ANY OF YOUR FAVORITE BOOKS OR WEBSITES ON THE SUBJECT OF ANIMAL RIGHTS AND VEGANISM?
the
animals
medications,
with
treatments,
and feedings, but also to provide them with a loving and safe environment where they can thrive and feel cared for.
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO LIVE A VEGAN LIFESTYLE? TUBA/
I
have
me
to
go
vegan.
not only to provide care for
inspired
been
TUBA/ Peter
me.
I
would
love
to
totally take myself out of
Anything Singer,
my mammalian comfort zone and experience life as a feathered friend.
by
especially
THE HARDEST QUESTION OF THEM ALL! WHO IS YOUR FAVORITE ANIMAL AT FARM SANCTUARY?
Animal Liberation. I also
TUBA/
Pinto
recommend
is
of
the
website,
one
my
the
steer
favorite
Plant Based on a Budget.
animals
here.
My
heart
It’s a simple easy guide
overflows
with
love
when
for recipes and meals while
we make eye contact. He
debunking
the
myth
that
is so gentle and sweet,
vegetarian since I was 13
veganism
is
inherently
and has moments of being a
and was pretty comfortable
expensive.
shows
you
little rambunctious. I find
in that for several years.
how
money
something so special about
During
of
while eating plant based
our dairy boys and their
college, I randomly took
and makes veganism look a
stories of coming here as
a course on animal rights
lot less scary.
babies. It’s truly amazing
my
first
year
to
It
save
your
and welfare. My professor reignited my passion for animals
and
I
totally
immersed myself in all of the books, lectures, and research, which ultimately
Chickpea magazine #28 earth
to look out and see Pinto
IF YOU COULD BE A FARM ANIMAL, WHAT WOULD YOU BE? TUBA/
I
would
be
who was rescued at 2 weeks old from a veal farm and now stands tall here at 11 a
chicken! They honestly are
years old living out his life at peace.
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Wandering around this magical place
also heals us. It’s healing because
full of animals with stories and
its
such unique personalities to tell
done. You feel good because you
them made me wonder how all of it
did something positive to prevent
began.
suffering.
I
spoke
with
Gene
Baur,
founder and author of Farm Sanctuary and Living the Farm Sanctuary Life, to
get
the
details
on
the
first
rescue, the first sanctuary, and the first thing to say to someone who disagrees with your decision to eat a vegan diet.
HOW DID FARM SANCTUARY BEGIN? GENE/ Farm sanctuary started in Wellington, Delaware at a little roadhouse that a few activists let us use in 1986. We funded it by selling vegan hot dogs out of a VW van at Grateful Dead concerts. It was all volunteer based at the time. Our mission was to grow awareness
something
concrete
we
have
DURING YOUR VISITS TO FACTORY FARMS, I’M SURE YOU HAVE SEEN MANY THINGS THAT PEOPLE GENERALLY WOULD RATHER IGNORE THAN ADDRESS. AT TIMES, OUR READERS, INCLUDING MYSELF, STRUGGLE TO EDUCATE FAMILY AND FRIENDS ON THE REALITY OF THE INDUSTRY. DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE FOR THOSE OF US HOPING TO GENTLY CREATE MORE OF AN AWARENESS REGARDING THESE ISSUES?
causing unnecessary harm.
THE TOP REASON FOR MOST PEOPLE TO BECOME VEGAN IS THE ANIMALS BEING HARMED IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY. WHAT ARE SOME OTHER REASONS TO GO VEGAN? GENE/ It just feels better. It is living with respect for others and yourself. People are more connected with
humanity
and
empathy.
When
we cause harm to someone else as occurs in slaughterhouses, we have to shut down part of our empathy, which causes us to important
part
It
all
makes
of
lose our
the
a
very
humanity.
difference
to
live and eat in our alignment with our
values
are also
and
interests.
There
personal, societal, and
spiritual reasons that connect us
by exposing the cruelty of factory
GENE/
Haha,
with our best self. Physical health
farming and showing the problems
seriously. Or any other yummy vegan
is another reason that also benefits
to
doing
food. One of the biggest obstacles
mental health. When you are living
farms,
people have is the fear that they
in a state of cognitive dissonance
where we found animals left for
won’t like the food or that it would
you are going to feel stressed.
dead piled in trash cans. We would
be very hard to avoid cruelty. “Oh,
Whereas, if you are living in a way
rescue them and take them back to
I could never do that” is one of
that you feel good about, you will
Wellington to care for them. A lot
the top comments among people who
easily
of the work and things we learned
are against eating vegan, but those
stress.
happened in that roadhouse. Mainly,
same people who have tried a tasty
we learned that the animals are
vegan meal say, “Oh, maybe I can.”
people.
We
investigations
started on
by
factory
ambassadors, and that by telling their
stories,
we
can
educate
When
Vegan
talking
Cupcakes!
to
people
who
are
people on what’s really going on.
hostile to the idea of veganism,
THE FIRST ANIMAL YOU RESCUED WAS A SHEEP NAMED HILDA, CAN YOU TELL ME A LITTLE BIT ABOUT HER AND WHAT IT WAS LIKE TO WITNESS HER REGAIN HER STRENGTH AND LIVE A FULL LIFE?
go from there. A lot of people
GENE/ It was amazing. We found her left in a pile of dead animals in a stockyard in Pennsylvania covered in maggots. When she lifted her head we were stunned. We brought her to the veterinarian and she stood up within a half hour. She recovered completely and lived a good, long life. As Hilda and other animals heal, it
we need to find common ground and will say they don’t support factory farming. Those same people will be into talking about health issues and the benefits of veganism. Today, there
are
many
documentaries,
doctors advocating vegan diets, the environmental impact, and climate change. for
the
If
somebody
eats
plants
environment
or
health
issues, they are more likely to be receptive to ethical issues. If they are eating animals and you tell them eating animals is cruel they
eliminate
that
emotional
WHAT DOES VEGANISM MEAN TO YOU? GENE/ Eating in alignment with our values and interests in one of the most powerful things you can do. Eating how you do today will influence
the
earth
tomorrow.
Be
empowered to live well. That is the idea of what it is to be vegan. For some, its an ingredient list. To me, being vegan is ultimately living in kindness to animals, the earth, other people, and ourselves. It’s really all about kindness.
WHAT ARE YOUR TOP 3 VEGAN INGREDIENTS TO COOK WITH?
can also feel directly attacked.
GENE/
I
So speak to them where they are
beans,
and
on their own journey. We are not
favorite
putting anyone down. We are helping
scrambled tofu, which can be found
people,
in my book!
animals,
and
the
earth.
It’s about living better without
love
arugula,
scrambled
recipe
is
black
tofu.
My
actually
my
I kneeled to the ground say hello to Nina, a sheep I’ve now met three times at Farm Sanctuary. Don’t tell the others, but I think she’s my favorite. She’s so friendly and genuine with the manners of a loyal canine. Turn your back and she’ll follow. Kneel down for a moment and she’ll press her nose against your cheeks. I could swear she purposely pushed her body into my legs with a humble request to be pet. Quite honestly, she’s the sweetest.
“Most of the animals on the sanctuary have come from such neglectful situations, you would think they would never trust a human again. But with kindness, love and care, it can be surprising how they become so trusting of us. They are forgiving. They show us love and gratitude in their own ways and it really makes you wonder how anyone could ever put them in harm’s way.” - Brooke, Caregiver at Farm Sanctuary
I sat down across from Brooke in the tree-shaded courtyard. Beside me, a friendly, beige cat hopped up on the bench and demanded my attention, which I was thrilled to give while I listened to Brooke’s stories to get a little more insight about the life of a caregiver.
WHAT IS THE MOST CHALLENGING THING FOR YOU AS A CAREGIVER?
IF YOU COULD BE ANY ANIMAL, WHAT WOULD YOU BE?
BROOKE/ Working with these animals every single
BROOKE/ I’d like to be a raven. First of all,
day, they become a part of my family. Since they
I could fly and be free, secondly, I could follow
are slaughtered so young on factory farms and
around the caregivers on the farm and use my
are bred to be larger than they naturally would,
cuteness and wit to get them to give me treats.
they often have health issues which prevent them from living long lives. It’s so hard to see their health decline and have to say goodbye. I often take my worry and sadness about these animals home with me...it’s hard if not impossible to shut off these feelings.
DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE ANIMAL AT FARM SANCTUARY? BROOKE/ I have so many favorites! Honky Tonk the donkey because he’s always as excited to see me as I am to see him, and he lets me give him
WHAT IS THE MOST REWARDING?
the best hugs, which are very therapeutic. I also
BROOKE/ Just looking around and seeing happy
and silly personality. Lastly, Joann the horse
animals. Watching their strong bonds with each
because she loves being groomed and is shy around
other, seeing them at peace relaxing in the sun,
people, but has earned my trust, which makes me
being able to witness new animals come out of
feel very special.
love Maria the goat because she has such a sweet
their shell, so to speak, and just be their true selves. At about 1pm, the sun was shining bright over Farm Sanctuary and the caregivers continued their daily tasks. Meanwhile, Jess stood by her phone waiting for information regarding the next big rescue. The animal chatter simmered down during feeding time, and the afternoon breeze picked up on my final walk-through. I said my goodbyes to the remarkable staff at Farm Sanctuary, and to Nina, who tilted her head up to look at me curiously as if to ask, “when will you be back?” I got into my car, took a deep breath, and started the engine. As I drove off down the road back in the direction of LA, I peaked in my rear-view mirror at the reflection of Farm Sanctuary and whispered a reply, “I’ll be back before you know it.” r
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Chickpea magazine #28 earth
Words & Photo s by L. Sasha Gora
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It is 11am and I am drinking a Bloody Mary.
first to wear this crown in Scandinavia. Since
curries in Thailand. In salsa in Mexico and
Neither at brunch, nor on the weekend,
then the Nordic region has been imagined
in salads nearly everywhere. With the same
instead it is a Tuesday and I’m in a geothermal
more and more as one of culinary plenty.
ingredient, we are able to imagine the cuisines
greenhouse in Reykholt, Iceland, a 90km
Exotic seaweeds. Deliciously obscure plants,
of so many different places. But these are
drive northeast of the capital. After a “tomato
pickled and fermented and smoked. Ancient
mostly places where summers are long and
shot” – a hollowed out tomato filled with
grains. Dark breads.
winters, if they exist, are short, or rainy. Not
Icelandic birch schnapps – this Bloody Mary is already my second boozy drink of the day.
But what about tomatoes? They do not
places like the North Atlantic.
feature at Noma. In fact, alongside other
Smith has also written about the tomato’s
But I am not in Iceland just to get tipsy and
restaurant staples like olive oil and lemons,
European debut. Its first reference appeared in
watch the earth boil and bubble at the nearby
they are banned. Instead, Noma has led fine
the writing of Italian herbalist Pietro Andrae
geysers. (Although, sure, that is a part of the
dining restaurants across the world into the
Matthioli in 1544, in which he described
country’s appeal.) My great grandmother was
forest, or jungle depending on the geography,
the mala auera, the golden apple. Smith
Icelandic, and so my interest in this North
to discover underutilized local ingredients.
continues that at least by 1608 tomatoes
Atlantic nation – one where Europe and
In the process of doing so, in some places
were used for culinary purposes in Seville,
North America literally clash and connect –
tomatoes have been left behind.
most likely in a salad with cucumber, and the
stems equally from its dramatic landscapes, as the role it plays in my family’s stories about where we are from.
Never mind that the tomato is treated like a vegetable, what is perhaps the world’s most popular fruit originates from the western
tomato’s first appearance in a cookbook recipe was a 1692 publication in Naples. However, even up to the late eighteenth century, many a European feared the tomato. It also went by
Despite how well they have been mapped and
South American highlands. In The Tomato in
photographed, the Icelandic landscapes seem
America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery,
severe, otherworldly even. It truly is a country
food historian Andrew F. Smith reveals it was
of fire and ice. The earth is hot enough to
only in Central America where the cultivated
bake bread in it simply by digging a hole and
tomato was found. He suggests that because
leaving the dough underground to steam. The
no archaeological evidence has been unearthed
But I have never feared the tomato, especially
icebergs and glaciers sparkle and are so clear
that proves any earlier traces, Mesoamericans
not those rendered into juice, spiked with
that breweries turn their water into beer.
began to eat tomatoes only later in their
vodka, and flavored with chili. As far as
However,
debate whether aristocrats were falling ill from them or pewter plates (fortunately, it was later clarified that the pewter plates were to blame.)
boozy mixed drinks go, the Bloody Mary is
history.
Northern
the nickname “poison apple.” There was even
as comforting as it gets, equally appropriate
Europe is often depicted
before noon as after. A few years ago, The
in terms of scarcity,
Guardian claimed that the best Bloody Mary
a region of extremes.
in the world was in Iceland, of all places. I am
Too little sun. Days
not the type to read such a thing and go on
that are too short or
living as if I hadn’t. And so I went to Iceland.
too long. Too many months of winter. A
At Friðheimar, tomatoes are a fruit for all
limited growing season.
seasons. The farm grows 300 tons a year of
Or at least this was
four varieties, including Roma and Piccolo
how the region was
tomatoes, as well as cucumbers, all year round.
imagined until Noma
Even on a grey day, which can be rather typical
in
in Iceland, the damp glow of the greenhouse
Copenhagen,
is warm, almost tropical in its humidity and
Denmark, went into the woods, the sea, and the sand and cooked up whimsical plates of
But
exchange,”
its ability to make baby hairs frizz up, and the
Nordic fare. Starting in 2010, Noma was
tomatoes have found a home in many of the
vines fragrant. The farm employs greenhouses,
crowned the best restaurant in the world three
world’s cuisines. On pizza in Naples and on
which use Iceland’s natural resources to craft
years in a row and then again in 2014: the
bread in Spain. In chutneys in India and in
a different environment, with temperatures
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since
the
“Columbian
Chickpea magazine #28 earth
commonly referred to as Mediterranean. Husband and wife Knútur Rafn Ármann, an agronomist, and Helena Hermundardóttir, a horticulturalist, bought Friðheimar in 1995, and run it together with the help of their five children. The farm was already outfitted with
tomato pie and a
named after George
tomato beer. Even
Jessel’s friend Mary Geraghty;
the carafes of water
others
on the restaurant’s
while,
claim
a
Hollywood star
tables sport tiny, red
as its namesake.
cherry tomatoes.
two greenhouses, and had been using natural
But the greenhouse’s
Names aside, a
hot water for horticulture since 1946. (The
undisputed star is its
good Bloody
first greenhouse in Iceland to be heated with
Bloody
geothermal energy was constructed in 1923.)
it’s good, a Bloody Mary
In 2002, Knútur and Helena decided to
wakes you up. It widens
focus on growing tomatoes. They opened the
your eyes. And if you want
The basic
greenhouses to visitors in 2011, and shortly
even wider eyes, you can
formula
after added a shop and a restaurant.
order Friðheimar’s Happy
is simple
Today Friðheimar supplies eighteen percent of the country’s tomatoes. Knútur is especially proud that ripe produce is picked by hand each morning and fresh on supermarket
Mary.
Mary: two parts Healthy
and a pour of Bitter Lemon.
never bore. Beyond the non-negotiable, a
Californian. Dressed in a checker shirt and
conversation. One side claims that bartender
light colored jeans with a chunky belt buckle,
Fernand Petiot was the first to mix tomato juice
he tells me that Iceland is “a perfect place to
and vodka in 1921 at the New York Bar in Paris
grow tomatoes all year round.”
(later called Harry’s New York Bar.) Another
in Iceland: we have really good water,” Knútur
enough to memorize and Tabasco sauce – yet flexible enough to
conflicting origin stories makes for lively
water is used for irrigation. “We are lucky here
recipe.
honey and ginger,) one part Hendrik’s gin,
hair, parted in the middle, and looks almost
water heat the farm’s greenhouses. Cold fresh
a
– the holy trinity of tomato juice, vodka,
Just like any good cocktail, the Bloody Mary’s
year, about 100,000 tons of 203°F geothermal
really need
Mary (green tomato juice, lime,
shelves that same afternoon. Knútur has blond
That's all thanks to the abundance of water. Per
Mary doesn’t
When
story traces this hangover cure’s origins to 21 Club in New York City, a legendary speakeasy, where some say a bartender and others say a regular, entertainer George Jessel, invented it. Fernand Petiot later moved to New York and
lot of other ingredients may be invited to join: Worcestershire sauce, black pepper, sea, celery, or smoked salt, lemon or lime juice and perhaps some zest, fresh horseradish, perhaps even Dijon mustard, parsley, caper berries, cayenne pepper or other spices. In India I once had an excellent Bloody Masala made with a blend of dried coriander, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, and black pepper. Celery ribs, a dill pickle, or even pickled beans, onions or peppers can be added as a garnish.
worked at the St. Regis Hotel. In 1964 he told
But what matters most is the tomato juice,
The New Yorker that it was there, at the King
which is why it is easy to want to order a
Cole Room bar, in 1933 that he added “four
second Bloody Mary at Friðheimar. The better
large dashes of salt, two dashes of black pepper,
the tomatoes, the better the drink. The juice
two dashes of cayenne pepper, and a layer of
should be thick enough that it slows you down
The farm’s restaurant further proves this.
Worcestershire sauce … a dash of lemon juice
from gulping it in one go, but it should still
A large man with round glasses, Jón K.B.
and some cracked ice.” The drink went from
be smooth. Besides the tangy flavor of good
Sigfússon is in charge. Jón has developed a
tomato juice and vodka to the Bloody Mary
tomato juice, it should have enough spice that
menu showcasing the myriad ways to eat and
we drink today.
your eyes grow wider with each sip, but not so
says. “We water our plants with the same water that we drink in our houses. Because tomatoes are more than 90% water, it matters to have good water.”
drink tomatoes. Options include the usual suspects like fresh ravioli with tomato sauce and homemade pesto (that Jón adds rhubarb to instead of lemon,) a tangy tomato soup, and grilled tortillas with tomato and basil, as well as less usual suspects, such as apple and green
The origins of its name are equally conflicted. Some stories claim it refers to Queen Mary I of England and Ireland, who tried to restore Catholic rule across the isles and was denounced by the Protestant opposition as “Bloody Mary.” Others suggest the drink was
Chickpea magazine #28 earth
much that a cough interrupts. And, just like the one I drank before noon at Friðheimar tomato farm in Iceland, it never hurts if a Bloody Mary comes with a good story about where you are and where you and your tomatoes are from. r
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Chickpea magazine #28 earth
Words & Photos by Jessica Bose So you’re on that final stretch of a long 10-mile
I’m sure you’ve seen elaborate camp kitchen
hike. Your feet are sore as they rub against
setups happening at your neighboring campsite.
the insole of your boots, you smell of dirt and
I’m talking about the family camping trip with
pine, and your stomach is begging for something
a big foldout table covered with a clean picnic
that isn’t dried mango or vegan jerky.
cloth, a fancy grill, and pretty much every tool
Finally, you’ve reached your campsite. I know how tempting it is to reach for a dinner that consists of a bag of tortilla chips and canned vegan chili. I get it; you’re on a getaway for
you’d find in a standard household kitchen. While that’s cool and all, it’s not the luxurious setup I have when I go camping, nor is it necessary to cook a ridiculously tasty meal.
the simple life of relaxation and junk food.
In fact, I live a minimalist lifestyle that I
It’s easy, and sure enough, it does the job.
like to take with me to my campsite. This means
Cooking in the woods, the desert, the wherever in the wilderness you’ve set up camp for the night can definitely be a challenge. I urge you to take a deep breath, stretch it out with a yoga pose or two, and cook the heck out of dinner, because honestly, there’s nothing more tasty and rewarding than eating a cooked meal
I only bring the essentials with me when I'm camping. It also means doing a little extra work to prepare for my trip, such as mixing ingredients together and organizing each meal into separate labeled tote bags, so I don’t have to search through a pile of dried goods and vegetables in the dark.
next to a fire.
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Chickpea magazine #28 earth
Make a list of the meals you’ll be making and bring copies of the recipes you will use. your spices out for each meal ahead of time to eliminate the need to bring along your entire spice cabinet. everything you pre-measure with the recipe name so you don’t mix up similar ingredients. the ingredients needed for each meal in individual tote bags or paper bags. Label them and put them in a cardboard box or reusable container for easy, organized transport. (Storing your food and cooking supplies this way is also incredibly helpful when you need to transfer your food to a bear box.) some collapsible dish sinks to make clean up easy.
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Chickpea magazine #28 earth
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Words by Sydney Taylor Outside of my house in South Carolina, my mom planted a garden that is small, yet mighty, supplementing our kitchen with a sufficiency of produce. What zucchinis and cucumbers we can’t eat or preserve ourselves, we give to the rest of our family. And in return, my aunt gives us a large, overflowing bowl of fresh blueberries, straight from the bushes in her garden. My uncle would give us a basket filled
after awhile, I started to wonder if those cabs would slow down, and questioned when those opportunities would arise, or at least respond to my email. Needless to say, I started losing hope. You could call it a lack of motivation, a less than desirable amount of money, or the pang of job rejection, but I felt a total lack of structure. That urge to be plugged in again was very real.
with a rainbow of fresh heirloom tomatoes, all craggy
I went to Union Square and strolled through the
and perfectly irregular, bursting at the skin with
farmer’s market. It was here I could immerse myself
sweetness. The perimeter of our home was filled with
in tables lined with fresh baskets of produce. The dark
flowers and herbs, some of their branches and vines
fall squashes, the sour crimson cranberries, and the
climbing up and around the walls. It sometimes felt
smell of hot, sweet apple cider imbued throughout
as if it was a sanctuary. In any moment that I felt
the corner, and I started to feel, a little, like I was
disconnected, there was a space, however small, to
plugging in. I strolled to a vendor who sold small
roam and feel closer. Closer to what, I wasn’t sure,
potted herbs. And suddenly, it was something about
but it felt as if I was plugged in.
the dirt, the stems, the leaves, and their unseen roots.
Sooner or later, it was time to explore outside that home. I packed up, went to school, and found myself in New York City. Culture shocked, overwhelmed, and mostly excited, I was enthralled by every aspect of it. It was anything you wanted at 3AM, the cabs moving so fast they flickered by in a flash of yellow, and the buildings – they still have me in awe as I bend my neck looking up at them. The opportunity that was available in a city like this is what drew me to it. I came here with a love of food, a degree in
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Culinary Arts, and the determination to write. But
I thumbed through and sniffed almost every herb. It’s the same way that I will forever love a potted plant over cut flowers, any day. Those roots, its soil, it’s what makes that plant everything that it is. And it was exactly what I needed: the roots and that prospect of growth. In all honesty, a plant could really liven the place up, too. I grabbed a pot of purple sage, its little leaves were studded on the edges with violet. Instantly attracted, I now had a 3x3” pot of earth that brought life to my small, dim apartment.
Chickpea magazine #28 earth
I watered her, just a bit, pressing a finger on the soil and feeling out how much she needed. Eventually, she grew. Her leaves expanded and more little growths started to appear on the stems. I went on with my days, now working three jobs, trying to pitch an article to anyone that would hear me, and coming home excited to tend to a plant that I treated as a pet. She became a favorite part of my day. But through the whirlwind of the bustling days, there might have been times that went by without her being watered. I
withered plant, I went to bed. After a couple days, I woke up one morning and shuffled to the stove to turn on the kettle, and I noticed a brighter green hue. Those leaves that started to gray had actually
was another reminder of nature’s resilience, and how she continues to teach, nurture, and feed through the most extreme conditions; it was another reminder that we can do the very same for ourselves.
become purple. Her green body started to
This city isn’t always the best place to get back
bloom; the growth surprised me. She was
to that space where I plug in, but it doesn’t
surviving. With the best leaves she had, I
mean that it won’t always be that space. I’m
picked just a few off for tea. The leaves were
constantly reminded that growth and rebirth
tender, and tore softly. The kettle whistled, I
happens constantly, every day. And the way
poured warm water over the crushed leaves,
that we overcome our own obstacles is not by dodging the hard parts, instead it’s about
thought I did a pretty good job of keeping
accepting that it wouldn’t be easy if there
up with it, but at this point it started
wasn’t a difficult step to the process.
to wither, and at a time where I felt
Consider your roots, connecting to
my hope start to dwindle.
that which brings us back to where
I felt stuck among working too many
we came from.
jobs, yet still in this phase of finding
We’re inhabitants of this land, and the
a “dream job.” I tried to make sure
relationship with us and the Earth is
I called my parents enough, paid
two-fold. She provides for us, and we
the rent, oh yeah – my student
should constantly, and consistently, be
loans are due, the utility bill’s
taking care of her. And I know, that when
tomorrow, and ultimately, I was
we do so, she nudges us. Throughout
trying to remember why I even
all of this, I just wanted to write.
came to New York in the first place.
I wanted to be heard. Once I
I wanted a career and fulfillment
became grounded in those roots,
and generally, a sense that I was
and kept going through the dip,
going somewhere, probably what a
I found that I was determined to keep
lot of people want. In those feelings,
it going. I kept writing, whether it was to
I became disconnected. I stopped
anyone or to myself. I wrote about food
writing. It seemed like no matter where
for myself, scribbled down recipe ideas
I went or what I did or wrote, I could feel that I wasn’t plugged in. My actions
and sipped. It was herby, slightly bitter,
started to feel limp and hollow, as if my
and satisfying; and it made me very giddy to
movement wasn’t producing any results to
know she wouldn’t keep drooping.
move me forward. And after I had seen my purple veined plant start to turn, fall, and become gray, I felt like in some odd way she understood me. Were we both going down? Was the combination of the winter’s cold and the uncontrollable use of the radiator going to dishearten us both? Maybe, but I watered her anyway. Giving whatever hope that was left to my small plot of soil and
for nothing other than wanting to, and started challenging myself to write the best descriptions about biting into an apple. And I am here, writing, being heard. Hopefully
I gave her more water, and she continued to
we all find the strength to plug in, and to not
grow, and I began to realize what she might
shut down when the struggle comes. Because
have been trying to show me. Sometimes we
it’s absolutely necessary and it’s absolutely a
go limp, maybe droop, and things even go
wholesome, beautiful thing. No growth is
gray, but that doesn’t mean we have to stay
done without struggle, and beautiful things
there. We can grow back, with hope and
come from dirt and heat and sweat and tears.
even a little water. (Really, stay hydrated.)
The sun will shine, and the growing pains
The earth, in whatever small reminders we
will subside, but you have to feel them first.
can try and take her in, provides for us. It
r
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Chickpea magazine #28 earth