issue 28 - earth

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Chickpea magazine #28 earth

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@alexandra_kaye Alexandra recently graduated from SUNY Brockport with her MA in English Lit. A Rochester native, she has a passion for traveling and living abroad, and has twice studied at Oxford University. Her joys in life are simple: a warm cup of tea, a good book, cozy blankets, and her cats.

caseyjoylister.com @pinch_dash_glug Casey lives on the west coast of Australia in a little house near the beach, with a sprawling veggie garden and her dog, Maple. She loves cooking healthy vegetarian meals (especially using homegrown vegetables and native Australian edible plants), freelance writing, photography, art and music. Her desert island dish is spaghetti. The only food she dislikes is dill. She has cultivated a biological resistance to the effects of chilli and garlic.

@figandblack Emily is a lover of all things plants - from food and farming to forests and fair-trade. She's personally experimented with a wide range of plant-based diets, but found her true passion lies in locally grown, sustainably produced foods. When she's not writing, she spends every moment she can outdoors, soaking in the beauty of the natural world.

alittlebaker.com @jessicabose @littlebakerjess Jessica is a baker and blogger with an affinity for exploring the grand outdoors, growing her own food, and living minimally. When she's not dancing to 80s music around her kitchen, you can be sure to find her out on a trail somewhere between Utah and California.

Courtney Tyler is a freelance writer based out of the Niagara region of Canada. She is a passionate vegan with a background in biochemistry who loves sharing original plantbased recipes on her food and lifestyle blog.

jennyrosee.com @thejennyrosee A freelance writer and vegan lifestyle blogger who loves to create worlds with her words.

Maia Welbel is a writer and sustainable food activist living in Chicago. She is passionate about vegan baking, and using storytelling to help people treat our planet with more compassion. She is also a dancer with Cocodaco Dance Project.

coutellerie.pl @coutellerie.pl Marianna is an art historian by education, a food lover, chef and photographer by passion. She is always thrilled to explore the person and story behind a meal. Born and raised in Warsaw, Poland, she is a traveler hungry for all kinds of local flavors.

kuebiko.co @bextyers @rebecca__tyers beautyforthebrain.com @beautyforthebrain

thankfulvegan.com @thankfulveganblog

maiawelbel.com @mwelbel @maiawelbel

Kasia is a vegan blogger with a passion for writing and a huge love for furry critters all over the planet. Writing is the name saving animals is the game.

lsashagora.com @lsashag L. Sasha Gora is a writer and cultural historian with a focus on food history and contemporary art. (Often separately but sometimes together.) A Torontonian by birth (and at heart), she studied in Montreal, Copenhagen, and Gothenburg, and now lives in Munich, where she writes, teaches, cooks, and eats a lot of pretzels.

Rebecca is a freelance food & sustainability writer, based in London, UK. She is passionate about making our food system more sustainable, open and locally focused. She loves growing food and dreams of running her own farm/animal sanctuary one day.

foodandlore.wordpress.com @sssydneytaylor @mllesydney Sydney Taylor scribbles words out of her tiny apartment in NYC. She always has a cup of coffee by her side, enjoys pasta for dinner on a regular basis, and gets too excited about finding books on the street. On any given day, Sydney is probably watching Gilmore Girls or baking brownies, or both.




Words & Photos by Marianna Medynska

While some of us are lucky to own a vegetable garden – or at least have easy access to trusted farmer’s markets – others may have difficulties obtaining naturally grown, organic products. Regardless of the conditions you might (not) have for any farming activity, sprouts are the way to go. Growing them requires no experience, no special tools or space, and an absolute minimum of your time and attention. Accept the challenge, and in two days from now you’ll be wondering why it took you so long to try. Sprouting at home is no different than the natural process of germination of a plant. It makes foods easier to digest by breaking down anti-nutrients that can limit our absorption of their minerals, and make them less friendly for our stomachs (in particular certain beans and grains.) It also results in increase of vitamins and protein content, which is important for a plant-based diet.

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First step is getting the raw material you are about to work with. You can buy seeds of various plants, from kale or radish to mustard and alfalfa, designated for sprouting. However, and more importantly, you can sprout ingredients that you probably snack on or cook with on a daily basis. Try your favorite beans (like chickpeas, mung beans or lentils,) grains (buckwheat, spelt or oat groats, millet, and even rice,) and nuts & seeds (like almonds, sunflower seeds or quinoa.) Introducing them in your kitchen in a sprouted form could be revolutionary. You might use them exactly the way you did without sprouting, which will add extra nutrition to your favorite dishes. Or you can rediscover them completely and get inspired to use them in ways you’ve never tried before. Whichever you choose, use the best quality seeds, grains or nuts you can find. You are about to sprout them to activate their inner power and bring out all that is best in them – be sure to make that effort for fresh and naturally grown supplies that do have the good stuff inside!

First step is soaking the seeds, grains or beans in clear, filtered water. It’s essential to wake them up and get them going. Rinse them and wash thoroughly, then place in a bowl or a container and cover with 2-3 times their amount of water. The required time of soaking varies for different seeds, but you don’t have to be extremely precise. 8-10 hours is optimal for most of them, but you could let them soak for up to 24 hours – especially the bigger ones like chickpeas.

Once your seeds are soaked, rinse them again with fresh water. Now they are ready to sprout and it is time for you to decide which method you are going to use to help them. All they will need is a proper rinsing twice a day, with no standing water left afterwards, and in good environment – they want to be kept in warm room temperature, far from direct sunlight, with free airflow provided. Although there’s a lot to choose from on the sprouting equipment shelf, you don’t need any fancy tools. Everything that might come handy is most likely in your cupboard already! There are several ways to sprout at home – choose one that suits your style.

This is probably the most popular practice,

Even easier than using a jar, the colander

Last but not least, it is okay to buy a

both among sprouting beginners and

method requires literally nothing but a

dedicated toolkit for sprouting. They come

experts. All you need is a jar (or several

colander. Simply leave your sprouts after

in different sizes and shapes, and apart from

of them,) a piece of cheesecloth and some

each rinsing and let them do the magic

their functionality, can be a decorative

rubber bands. Put the seeds in the jars,

before your eyes. It works best for small

element on your kitchen counter. Go for one

cover them with the cloths and secure them

amounts of sprouts, as they should not pile

that is made with organic materials rather

tightly with rubber bands. Find a place

up – they all need relatively good access to

than plastic. Natural clay is a perfect choice,

where you can conveniently put the jars

the air. You can use various kinds of sieves,

as it keeps the sprouts’ environment dark

upside down at around a 45-degree angle

too. My favorite is a Japanese bamboo

and humid (thanks to the porous structure

(e.g. a dish rack.) That way after you rinse

basket called zaru.

of clay, which maintains moisture.)

your sprouts, all the excess water can drain and the air is flowing freely.

Having chosen and arranged the equipment for sprouting, all you need to do is rinse your sprouts twice a day with fresh, filtered water. And be patient – depending on the kind of sprouts you are going for, it can take from 1 to 4 days for them to be ready. During summer (or in warm climate) you don’t need to wait long, as the little white tails may appear after a couple of hours.

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Sprouts on different stages can be useful in different recipes – some are best very fresh and tender, others should wait and become almost leafy green and crunchy. Watch them well and decide at what time you want to start the consumption. If you want to store your sprouts, dry them well before transferring to a container. Put in the fridge, where they will keep for around one week.

Serves 4 Ingredients 2 cups sprouted buckwheat 1 large banana 5 fresh dates, pitted 1 tbsp vanilla extract pinch of salt 1/2 – 1 cup coconut milk toppings of choice, e.g. seasonal fruits and date syrup

Instructions Put all the ingredients except for coconut milk in a blender. Start mixing on high speed and slowly add coconut milk, just enough to reach the thickness you like most (I usually make it on a thinner side.) Stop blending when the mixture is creamy and smooth. Transfer to bowls and top with a few extra sprouted buckwheat groats, seasonal fruits and date syrup. Or with anything else you desire!

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Serves 4 as a side dish

Serves 4 Ingredients 2 cups sprouted chickpeas

Ingredients

Instructions

1 cup sprouted green lentils

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the

1/2 cup whole almonds

almonds on a baking sheet and roast

a handful of greens of choice (e.g.

them for 8-12 minutes, until golden

romaine, spinach, arugula)

and fragrant. Set aside to cool. In

1 cup packed parsley leaves

5 small apricots, halved

the meantime, steam sprouted green

2 small garlic cloves, peeled

a handful of cherries, pitted

lentils until they’re cooked al dente

1/2 medium white onion juice of 1/2 lemon 1 tsp ground cumin 1/2 tsp ground coriander 1/2 tsp cinnamon 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

(around 10 minutes.) Mix the rest of

Citrus Dressing

the components (greens, apricots and

juice of 1 lemon

cherries) in a large salad bowl. Add

1 tsp maple syrup

cooked lentils. Put all ingredients for

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil a splash of tamari or soy sauce

the dressing in a jar and shake well to combine. Pour over the salad bowl, mix and garnish with chopped almonds.

1/2 tsp salt 2-3 tbsp cold water (or more, as needed) vegetable oil for frying Instructions 1. Put all the ingredients apart from water and oil in a food processor and pulse. It should remain slightly coarse. Add water, one tablespoon at a time, just enough to make the mixture sticky and easy to shape in your hands. Refrigerate for at least one hour.

Serves 2-4 Ingredients

Notes

1 cup sprouted sunflower

Use very fresh (1-2 days old) sprouted sunflower seeds

seeds

in this recipe. The longer they sprout, the spicier they

1 1/2 - 2 cups water

get. They also turn green and crunchy, which is great

cover the surface. Form the mixture into

1 small tonka bean

for salads, but makes the milk less creamy.

thick, round patties and fry them on

pinch of salt

medium heat on both sides until nicely

1/2 tsp ground turmeric

brown. Transfer to a plate lined with

1/3 cup agave syrup, or

2. Heat oil in a shallow pan, enough to

paper towel to get rid of excess oil. 3. Serve with tahini sauce, fresh and cooked

to taste ice cubes to serve

Instructions Put seeds in a blender along with fresh water. Finely grate half of your tonka bean (it’s hard, so it’s best to use a microplane or another sharp zester) and add it to the blender with salt and turmeric. Mix on high speed for 2

vegetables, in a bun, or any way you like.

minutes or until smooth. Strain the mixture through a nut bag or a piece of muslin

They are best enjoyed right away (while

cloth. Squeeze out the last drop (save the leftover pulp for a spread or baked goods.)

the outside is delightfully crispy,) but

Grate the other half of tonka bean and mix it with the milk. Sweeten with maple

can be stored or enjoyed as takeaway or

syrup to taste (the spicier the aftertaste, the sweeter it should be). Serve ice cold, as

picnic food, as well.

a refreshing alternative to iced coffee. r

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Interv

16

iew &

sic by Jes s o t o Ph

a Bose

Chickpea magazine #28 earth


practices and veganism.

About an hour northeast of Los

a small promise to myself that I

Angeles, in a valley of canyons

would do my best to capture this

just past the ever-popular Vasquez

experience and put it into words.

As

Farm Sanctuary is a safe home for

speaking “bahhh” and the clucks

animals, who have been abused in

of

factory farms, to live out their

the Interim Shelter Manager. We

happiest lives. The sanctuary was

walked through the entrance and

founded

Rocks, lies a freeway exit leading to the town of Acton, California, home

of

Farm

Sanctuary,

the

most wholehearted animal rescue community

I

have

ever

stepped

I

exited

greeted

by

chickens

my

car,

sounds along

I of

with

was sheep Jess,

Baur,

into the shaded courtyard on a

author and animal rights activist.

path to her office. Inside, the

Since then, it has developed into

walls were lined with files and

few times, and each visit, I’ve

the

and

cans of Amy’s vegan soups. There

found

foot in. I’ve

visited

the

sanctuary

a

in

1986

leading

by

animal

Gene

rescue

the

protection organization with farms

were large windows decorated with

care that goes into ensuring the

in both New York and California.

hanging plants, and through them,

rescued animals are safe, happy,

Each

in

I could still hear the soothing

and healthy. As I pulled down a

advocating compassion for animals

sound of happy animals having mid-

stretch of desert road and up to

through

morning conversations.

the front gate once more, I made

the subjects of improper farming

myself

in

awe

over

location

plays

providing

a

role

education

on

into a slaughterhouse or areas of neglect and abuse, it is highly rewarding to see to see the animals come to life after a few days at Farm Sanctuary. If I could help beings in need all day long, I would do that.

WHAT IS A PART OF THE JOB Y OU DIDN’T EXPECT? JESS/ As you know, you’re going to love your job and be stoked to work with farm animals, but I didn’t realize how much I would fall in love with all of the people I am working with. I see them giving their all everyday. From educating school kids, to building barns and safe places for animals, to providing actual care and feed for the animals, etc.

I

definitely

didn’t

expect

the

overwhelming

feeling of: heck yes! I am working with all of these badasses!? That is incredible! I am so in awe that I get to be a part of this.

ANY ADVICE TO AN ASPIRING C AREGIVER? CAN YOU TELL ME A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOUR ROLE HERE AT FARM SANCTUARY? J E S S / I am the Interim Shelter Manager here. As the manager, I work doing healthcare shifts and oversee the staff and all of the animals, so I do everything from reports to rescues, to scheduling.

IF YOU COULD DO ONE TASK ALL DAY, WHAT WOULD IT BE? JESS/ Cuddle sheep, rub pig bellies, hug cows, and of course, kiss turkeys! Just kidding, but wouldn’t that be great? Honestly, I would do rescue every day. Though it is emotionally tolling because you’re going

JESS/ Volunteer, volunteer, volunteer beforehand. Go onto the website and look at volunteer or intern positions. Often people think, oh I would love to work with farm animals, but have never held a chicken or been pooped on by turkey, so they don’t realize it’s not an easy job. Get your hands dirty and see if it’s really for you, and if it is, we’d love to have you.

IF YOU HAD TO CHOOSE A FAVO RITE ANIMAL HERE, WHO WOULD THAT BE? JESS/ There’s so many animals here that I’m madly in love with! Sandy the turkey is one of my special girls and Saffron the cow is my guy, but really, there are so many more!


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Chickpea magazine #28 earth


I took a brief break to venture into the barn where I met up with Junip, one of the pigs, who was happy to wake from her mid-day nap in the shade in exchange for a belly rub. Junip is one of several pigs here at the sanctuary that have been rescued from the agricultural business, and when I look into her eyes, I can’t help but feel relief and comfort in knowing that this is a safe place for animals like Junip to live and interact with one another. With complete freedom, farm animals can run around, play, and live out their lives as “residents” as Tuba, one of the caregivers, refers to the animals.

WHAT IS YOUR ROLE HERE AS A CAREGIVER?

led me to farm sanctuary

so funny and fascinating

and

to

TUBA/ My role here is

CAN YOU SHARE ANY OF YOUR FAVORITE BOOKS OR WEBSITES ON THE SUBJECT OF ANIMAL RIGHTS AND VEGANISM?

the

animals

medications,

with

treatments,

and feedings, but also to provide them with a loving and safe environment where they can thrive and feel cared for.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO LIVE A VEGAN LIFESTYLE? TUBA/

I

have

me

to

go

vegan.

not only to provide care for

inspired

been

TUBA/ Peter

me.

I

would

love

to

totally take myself out of

Anything Singer,

my mammalian comfort zone and experience life as a feathered friend.

by

especially

THE HARDEST QUESTION OF THEM ALL! WHO IS YOUR FAVORITE ANIMAL AT FARM SANCTUARY?

Animal Liberation. I also

TUBA/

Pinto

recommend

is

of

the

website,

one

my

the

steer

favorite

Plant Based on a Budget.

animals

here.

My

heart

It’s a simple easy guide

overflows

with

love

when

for recipes and meals while

we make eye contact. He

debunking

the

myth

that

is so gentle and sweet,

vegetarian since I was 13

veganism

is

inherently

and has moments of being a

and was pretty comfortable

expensive.

shows

you

little rambunctious. I find

in that for several years.

how

money

something so special about

During

of

while eating plant based

our dairy boys and their

college, I randomly took

and makes veganism look a

stories of coming here as

a course on animal rights

lot less scary.

babies. It’s truly amazing

my

first

year

to

It

save

your

and welfare. My professor reignited my passion for animals

and

I

totally

immersed myself in all of the books, lectures, and research, which ultimately

Chickpea magazine #28 earth

to look out and see Pinto

IF YOU COULD BE A FARM ANIMAL, WHAT WOULD YOU BE? TUBA/

I

would

be

who was rescued at 2 weeks old from a veal farm and now stands tall here at 11 a

chicken! They honestly are

years old living out his life at peace.

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Wandering around this magical place

also heals us. It’s healing because

full of animals with stories and

its

such unique personalities to tell

done. You feel good because you

them made me wonder how all of it

did something positive to prevent

began.

suffering.

I

spoke

with

Gene

Baur,

founder and author of Farm Sanctuary and Living the Farm Sanctuary Life, to

get

the

details

on

the

first

rescue, the first sanctuary, and the first thing to say to someone who disagrees with your decision to eat a vegan diet.

HOW DID FARM SANCTUARY BEGIN? GENE/ Farm sanctuary started in Wellington, Delaware at a little roadhouse that a few activists let us use in 1986. We funded it by selling vegan hot dogs out of a VW van at Grateful Dead concerts. It was all volunteer based at the time. Our mission was to grow awareness

something

concrete

we

have

DURING YOUR VISITS TO FACTORY FARMS, I’M SURE YOU HAVE SEEN MANY THINGS THAT PEOPLE GENERALLY WOULD RATHER IGNORE THAN ADDRESS. AT TIMES, OUR READERS, INCLUDING MYSELF, STRUGGLE TO EDUCATE FAMILY AND FRIENDS ON THE REALITY OF THE INDUSTRY. DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE FOR THOSE OF US HOPING TO GENTLY CREATE MORE OF AN AWARENESS REGARDING THESE ISSUES?

causing unnecessary harm.

THE TOP REASON FOR MOST PEOPLE TO BECOME VEGAN IS THE ANIMALS BEING HARMED IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY. WHAT ARE SOME OTHER REASONS TO GO VEGAN? GENE/ It just feels better. It is living with respect for others and yourself. People are more connected with

humanity

and

empathy.

When

we cause harm to someone else as occurs in slaughterhouses, we have to shut down part of our empathy, which causes us to important

part

It

all

makes

of

lose our

the

a

very

humanity.

difference

to

live and eat in our alignment with our

values

are also

and

interests.

There

personal, societal, and

spiritual reasons that connect us

by exposing the cruelty of factory

GENE/

Haha,

with our best self. Physical health

farming and showing the problems

seriously. Or any other yummy vegan

is another reason that also benefits

to

doing

food. One of the biggest obstacles

mental health. When you are living

farms,

people have is the fear that they

in a state of cognitive dissonance

where we found animals left for

won’t like the food or that it would

you are going to feel stressed.

dead piled in trash cans. We would

be very hard to avoid cruelty. “Oh,

Whereas, if you are living in a way

rescue them and take them back to

I could never do that” is one of

that you feel good about, you will

Wellington to care for them. A lot

the top comments among people who

easily

of the work and things we learned

are against eating vegan, but those

stress.

happened in that roadhouse. Mainly,

same people who have tried a tasty

we learned that the animals are

vegan meal say, “Oh, maybe I can.”

people.

We

investigations

started on

by

factory

ambassadors, and that by telling their

stories,

we

can

educate

When

Vegan

talking

Cupcakes!

to

people

who

are

people on what’s really going on.

hostile to the idea of veganism,

THE FIRST ANIMAL YOU RESCUED WAS A SHEEP NAMED HILDA, CAN YOU TELL ME A LITTLE BIT ABOUT HER AND WHAT IT WAS LIKE TO WITNESS HER REGAIN HER STRENGTH AND LIVE A FULL LIFE?

go from there. A lot of people

GENE/ It was amazing. We found her left in a pile of dead animals in a stockyard in Pennsylvania covered in maggots. When she lifted her head we were stunned. We brought her to the veterinarian and she stood up within a half hour. She recovered completely and lived a good, long life. As Hilda and other animals heal, it

we need to find common ground and will say they don’t support factory farming. Those same people will be into talking about health issues and the benefits of veganism. Today, there

are

many

documentaries,

doctors advocating vegan diets, the environmental impact, and climate change. for

the

If

somebody

eats

plants

environment

or

health

issues, they are more likely to be receptive to ethical issues. If they are eating animals and you tell them eating animals is cruel they

eliminate

that

emotional

WHAT DOES VEGANISM MEAN TO YOU? GENE/ Eating in alignment with our values and interests in one of the most powerful things you can do. Eating how you do today will influence

the

earth

tomorrow.

Be

empowered to live well. That is the idea of what it is to be vegan. For some, its an ingredient list. To me, being vegan is ultimately living in kindness to animals, the earth, other people, and ourselves. It’s really all about kindness.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP 3 VEGAN INGREDIENTS TO COOK WITH?

can also feel directly attacked.

GENE/

I

So speak to them where they are

beans,

and

on their own journey. We are not

favorite

putting anyone down. We are helping

scrambled tofu, which can be found

people,

in my book!

animals,

and

the

earth.

It’s about living better without

love

arugula,

scrambled

recipe

is

black

tofu.

My

actually

my


I kneeled to the ground say hello to Nina, a sheep I’ve now met three times at Farm Sanctuary. Don’t tell the others, but I think she’s my favorite. She’s so friendly and genuine with the manners of a loyal canine. Turn your back and she’ll follow. Kneel down for a moment and she’ll press her nose against your cheeks. I could swear she purposely pushed her body into my legs with a humble request to be pet. Quite honestly, she’s the sweetest.

“Most of the animals on the sanctuary have come from such neglectful situations, you would think they would never trust a human again. But with kindness, love and care, it can be surprising how they become so trusting of us. They are forgiving. They show us love and gratitude in their own ways and it really makes you wonder how anyone could ever put them in harm’s way.” - Brooke, Caregiver at Farm Sanctuary

I sat down across from Brooke in the tree-shaded courtyard. Beside me, a friendly, beige cat hopped up on the bench and demanded my attention, which I was thrilled to give while I listened to Brooke’s stories to get a little more insight about the life of a caregiver.

WHAT IS THE MOST CHALLENGING THING FOR YOU AS A CAREGIVER?

IF YOU COULD BE ANY ANIMAL, WHAT WOULD YOU BE?

BROOKE/ Working with these animals every single

BROOKE/ I’d like to be a raven. First of all,

day, they become a part of my family. Since they

I could fly and be free, secondly, I could follow

are slaughtered so young on factory farms and

around the caregivers on the farm and use my

are bred to be larger than they naturally would,

cuteness and wit to get them to give me treats.

they often have health issues which prevent them from living long lives. It’s so hard to see their health decline and have to say goodbye. I often take my worry and sadness about these animals home with me...it’s hard if not impossible to shut off these feelings.

DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE ANIMAL AT FARM SANCTUARY? BROOKE/ I have so many favorites! Honky Tonk the donkey because he’s always as excited to see me as I am to see him, and he lets me give him

WHAT IS THE MOST REWARDING?

the best hugs, which are very therapeutic. I also

BROOKE/ Just looking around and seeing happy

and silly personality. Lastly, Joann the horse

animals. Watching their strong bonds with each

because she loves being groomed and is shy around

other, seeing them at peace relaxing in the sun,

people, but has earned my trust, which makes me

being able to witness new animals come out of

feel very special.

love Maria the goat because she has such a sweet

their shell, so to speak, and just be their true selves. At about 1pm, the sun was shining bright over Farm Sanctuary and the caregivers continued their daily tasks. Meanwhile, Jess stood by her phone waiting for information regarding the next big rescue. The animal chatter simmered down during feeding time, and the afternoon breeze picked up on my final walk-through. I said my goodbyes to the remarkable staff at Farm Sanctuary, and to Nina, who tilted her head up to look at me curiously as if to ask, “when will you be back?” I got into my car, took a deep breath, and started the engine. As I drove off down the road back in the direction of LA, I peaked in my rear-view mirror at the reflection of Farm Sanctuary and whispered a reply, “I’ll be back before you know it.” r

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Chickpea magazine #28 earth


Words & Photo s by L. Sasha Gora

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It is 11am and I am drinking a Bloody Mary.

first to wear this crown in Scandinavia. Since

curries in Thailand. In salsa in Mexico and

Neither at brunch, nor on the weekend,

then the Nordic region has been imagined

in salads nearly everywhere. With the same

instead it is a Tuesday and I’m in a geothermal

more and more as one of culinary plenty.

ingredient, we are able to imagine the cuisines

greenhouse in Reykholt, Iceland, a 90km

Exotic seaweeds. Deliciously obscure plants,

of so many different places. But these are

drive northeast of the capital. After a “tomato

pickled and fermented and smoked. Ancient

mostly places where summers are long and

shot” – a hollowed out tomato filled with

grains. Dark breads.

winters, if they exist, are short, or rainy. Not

Icelandic birch schnapps – this Bloody Mary is already my second boozy drink of the day.

But what about tomatoes? They do not

places like the North Atlantic.

feature at Noma. In fact, alongside other

Smith has also written about the tomato’s

But I am not in Iceland just to get tipsy and

restaurant staples like olive oil and lemons,

European debut. Its first reference appeared in

watch the earth boil and bubble at the nearby

they are banned. Instead, Noma has led fine

the writing of Italian herbalist Pietro Andrae

geysers. (Although, sure, that is a part of the

dining restaurants across the world into the

Matthioli in 1544, in which he described

country’s appeal.) My great grandmother was

forest, or jungle depending on the geography,

the mala auera, the golden apple. Smith

Icelandic, and so my interest in this North

to discover underutilized local ingredients.

continues that at least by 1608 tomatoes

Atlantic nation – one where Europe and

In the process of doing so, in some places

were used for culinary purposes in Seville,

North America literally clash and connect –

tomatoes have been left behind.

most likely in a salad with cucumber, and the

stems equally from its dramatic landscapes, as the role it plays in my family’s stories about where we are from.

Never mind that the tomato is treated like a vegetable, what is perhaps the world’s most popular fruit originates from the western

tomato’s first appearance in a cookbook recipe was a 1692 publication in Naples. However, even up to the late eighteenth century, many a European feared the tomato. It also went by

Despite how well they have been mapped and

South American highlands. In The Tomato in

photographed, the Icelandic landscapes seem

America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery,

severe, otherworldly even. It truly is a country

food historian Andrew F. Smith reveals it was

of fire and ice. The earth is hot enough to

only in Central America where the cultivated

bake bread in it simply by digging a hole and

tomato was found. He suggests that because

leaving the dough underground to steam. The

no archaeological evidence has been unearthed

But I have never feared the tomato, especially

icebergs and glaciers sparkle and are so clear

that proves any earlier traces, Mesoamericans

not those rendered into juice, spiked with

that breweries turn their water into beer.

began to eat tomatoes only later in their

vodka, and flavored with chili. As far as

However,

debate whether aristocrats were falling ill from them or pewter plates (fortunately, it was later clarified that the pewter plates were to blame.)

boozy mixed drinks go, the Bloody Mary is

history.

Northern

the nickname “poison apple.” There was even

as comforting as it gets, equally appropriate

Europe is often depicted

before noon as after. A few years ago, The

in terms of scarcity,

Guardian claimed that the best Bloody Mary

a region of extremes.

in the world was in Iceland, of all places. I am

Too little sun. Days

not the type to read such a thing and go on

that are too short or

living as if I hadn’t. And so I went to Iceland.

too long. Too many months of winter. A

At Friðheimar, tomatoes are a fruit for all

limited growing season.

seasons. The farm grows 300 tons a year of

Or at least this was

four varieties, including Roma and Piccolo

how the region was

tomatoes, as well as cucumbers, all year round.

imagined until Noma

Even on a grey day, which can be rather typical

in

in Iceland, the damp glow of the greenhouse

Copenhagen,

is warm, almost tropical in its humidity and

Denmark, went into the woods, the sea, and the sand and cooked up whimsical plates of

But

exchange,”

its ability to make baby hairs frizz up, and the

Nordic fare. Starting in 2010, Noma was

tomatoes have found a home in many of the

vines fragrant. The farm employs greenhouses,

crowned the best restaurant in the world three

world’s cuisines. On pizza in Naples and on

which use Iceland’s natural resources to craft

years in a row and then again in 2014: the

bread in Spain. In chutneys in India and in

a different environment, with temperatures

26

since

the

“Columbian

Chickpea magazine #28 earth


commonly referred to as Mediterranean. Husband and wife Knútur Rafn Ármann, an agronomist, and Helena Hermundardóttir, a horticulturalist, bought Friðheimar in 1995, and run it together with the help of their five children. The farm was already outfitted with

tomato pie and a

named after George

tomato beer. Even

Jessel’s friend Mary Geraghty;

the carafes of water

others

on the restaurant’s

while,

claim

a

Hollywood star

tables sport tiny, red

as its namesake.

cherry tomatoes.

two greenhouses, and had been using natural

But the greenhouse’s

Names aside, a

hot water for horticulture since 1946. (The

undisputed star is its

good Bloody

first greenhouse in Iceland to be heated with

Bloody

geothermal energy was constructed in 1923.)

it’s good, a Bloody Mary

In 2002, Knútur and Helena decided to

wakes you up. It widens

focus on growing tomatoes. They opened the

your eyes. And if you want

The basic

greenhouses to visitors in 2011, and shortly

even wider eyes, you can

formula

after added a shop and a restaurant.

order Friðheimar’s Happy

is simple

Today Friðheimar supplies eighteen percent of the country’s tomatoes. Knútur is especially proud that ripe produce is picked by hand each morning and fresh on supermarket

Mary.

Mary: two parts Healthy

and a pour of Bitter Lemon.

never bore. Beyond the non-negotiable, a

Californian. Dressed in a checker shirt and

conversation. One side claims that bartender

light colored jeans with a chunky belt buckle,

Fernand Petiot was the first to mix tomato juice

he tells me that Iceland is “a perfect place to

and vodka in 1921 at the New York Bar in Paris

grow tomatoes all year round.”

(later called Harry’s New York Bar.) Another

in Iceland: we have really good water,” Knútur

enough to memorize and Tabasco sauce – yet flexible enough to

conflicting origin stories makes for lively

water is used for irrigation. “We are lucky here

recipe.

honey and ginger,) one part Hendrik’s gin,

hair, parted in the middle, and looks almost

water heat the farm’s greenhouses. Cold fresh

a

– the holy trinity of tomato juice, vodka,

Just like any good cocktail, the Bloody Mary’s

year, about 100,000 tons of 203°F geothermal

really need

Mary (green tomato juice, lime,

shelves that same afternoon. Knútur has blond

That's all thanks to the abundance of water. Per

Mary doesn’t

When

story traces this hangover cure’s origins to 21 Club in New York City, a legendary speakeasy, where some say a bartender and others say a regular, entertainer George Jessel, invented it. Fernand Petiot later moved to New York and

lot of other ingredients may be invited to join: Worcestershire sauce, black pepper, sea, celery, or smoked salt, lemon or lime juice and perhaps some zest, fresh horseradish, perhaps even Dijon mustard, parsley, caper berries, cayenne pepper or other spices. In India I once had an excellent Bloody Masala made with a blend of dried coriander, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, and black pepper. Celery ribs, a dill pickle, or even pickled beans, onions or peppers can be added as a garnish.

worked at the St. Regis Hotel. In 1964 he told

But what matters most is the tomato juice,

The New Yorker that it was there, at the King

which is why it is easy to want to order a

Cole Room bar, in 1933 that he added “four

second Bloody Mary at Friðheimar. The better

large dashes of salt, two dashes of black pepper,

the tomatoes, the better the drink. The juice

two dashes of cayenne pepper, and a layer of

should be thick enough that it slows you down

The farm’s restaurant further proves this.

Worcestershire sauce … a dash of lemon juice

from gulping it in one go, but it should still

A large man with round glasses, Jón K.B.

and some cracked ice.” The drink went from

be smooth. Besides the tangy flavor of good

Sigfússon is in charge. Jón has developed a

tomato juice and vodka to the Bloody Mary

tomato juice, it should have enough spice that

menu showcasing the myriad ways to eat and

we drink today.

your eyes grow wider with each sip, but not so

says. “We water our plants with the same water that we drink in our houses. Because tomatoes are more than 90% water, it matters to have good water.”

drink tomatoes. Options include the usual suspects like fresh ravioli with tomato sauce and homemade pesto (that Jón adds rhubarb to instead of lemon,) a tangy tomato soup, and grilled tortillas with tomato and basil, as well as less usual suspects, such as apple and green

The origins of its name are equally conflicted. Some stories claim it refers to Queen Mary I of England and Ireland, who tried to restore Catholic rule across the isles and was denounced by the Protestant opposition as “Bloody Mary.” Others suggest the drink was

Chickpea magazine #28 earth

much that a cough interrupts. And, just like the one I drank before noon at Friðheimar tomato farm in Iceland, it never hurts if a Bloody Mary comes with a good story about where you are and where you and your tomatoes are from. r

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Chickpea magazine #28 earth


Words & Photos by Jessica Bose So you’re on that final stretch of a long 10-mile

I’m sure you’ve seen elaborate camp kitchen

hike. Your feet are sore as they rub against

setups happening at your neighboring campsite.

the insole of your boots, you smell of dirt and

I’m talking about the family camping trip with

pine, and your stomach is begging for something

a big foldout table covered with a clean picnic

that isn’t dried mango or vegan jerky.

cloth, a fancy grill, and pretty much every tool

Finally, you’ve reached your campsite. I know how tempting it is to reach for a dinner that consists of a bag of tortilla chips and canned vegan chili. I get it; you’re on a getaway for

you’d find in a standard household kitchen. While that’s cool and all, it’s not the luxurious setup I have when I go camping, nor is it necessary to cook a ridiculously tasty meal.

the simple life of relaxation and junk food.

In fact, I live a minimalist lifestyle that I

It’s easy, and sure enough, it does the job.

like to take with me to my campsite. This means

Cooking in the woods, the desert, the wherever in the wilderness you’ve set up camp for the night can definitely be a challenge. I urge you to take a deep breath, stretch it out with a yoga pose or two, and cook the heck out of dinner, because honestly, there’s nothing more tasty and rewarding than eating a cooked meal

I only bring the essentials with me when I'm camping. It also means doing a little extra work to prepare for my trip, such as mixing ingredients together and organizing each meal into separate labeled tote bags, so I don’t have to search through a pile of dried goods and vegetables in the dark.

next to a fire.

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Chickpea magazine #28 earth


Make a list of the meals you’ll be making and bring copies of the recipes you will use. your spices out for each meal ahead of time to eliminate the need to bring along your entire spice cabinet. everything you pre-measure with the recipe name so you don’t mix up similar ingredients. the ingredients needed for each meal in individual tote bags or paper bags. Label them and put them in a cardboard box or reusable container for easy, organized transport. (Storing your food and cooking supplies this way is also incredibly helpful when you need to transfer your food to a bear box.) some collapsible dish sinks to make clean up easy.

Chickpea magazine #28 earth

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Chickpea magazine #28 earth


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Words by Sydney Taylor Outside of my house in South Carolina, my mom planted a garden that is small, yet mighty, supplementing our kitchen with a sufficiency of produce. What zucchinis and cucumbers we can’t eat or preserve ourselves, we give to the rest of our family. And in return, my aunt gives us a large, overflowing bowl of fresh blueberries, straight from the bushes in her garden. My uncle would give us a basket filled

after awhile, I started to wonder if those cabs would slow down, and questioned when those opportunities would arise, or at least respond to my email. Needless to say, I started losing hope. You could call it a lack of motivation, a less than desirable amount of money, or the pang of job rejection, but I felt a total lack of structure. That urge to be plugged in again was very real.

with a rainbow of fresh heirloom tomatoes, all craggy

I went to Union Square and strolled through the

and perfectly irregular, bursting at the skin with

farmer’s market. It was here I could immerse myself

sweetness. The perimeter of our home was filled with

in tables lined with fresh baskets of produce. The dark

flowers and herbs, some of their branches and vines

fall squashes, the sour crimson cranberries, and the

climbing up and around the walls. It sometimes felt

smell of hot, sweet apple cider imbued throughout

as if it was a sanctuary. In any moment that I felt

the corner, and I started to feel, a little, like I was

disconnected, there was a space, however small, to

plugging in. I strolled to a vendor who sold small

roam and feel closer. Closer to what, I wasn’t sure,

potted herbs. And suddenly, it was something about

but it felt as if I was plugged in.

the dirt, the stems, the leaves, and their unseen roots.

Sooner or later, it was time to explore outside that home. I packed up, went to school, and found myself in New York City. Culture shocked, overwhelmed, and mostly excited, I was enthralled by every aspect of it. It was anything you wanted at 3AM, the cabs moving so fast they flickered by in a flash of yellow, and the buildings – they still have me in awe as I bend my neck looking up at them. The opportunity that was available in a city like this is what drew me to it. I came here with a love of food, a degree in

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Culinary Arts, and the determination to write. But

I thumbed through and sniffed almost every herb. It’s the same way that I will forever love a potted plant over cut flowers, any day. Those roots, its soil, it’s what makes that plant everything that it is. And it was exactly what I needed: the roots and that prospect of growth. In all honesty, a plant could really liven the place up, too. I grabbed a pot of purple sage, its little leaves were studded on the edges with violet. Instantly attracted, I now had a 3x3” pot of earth that brought life to my small, dim apartment.

Chickpea magazine #28 earth


I watered her, just a bit, pressing a finger on the soil and feeling out how much she needed. Eventually, she grew. Her leaves expanded and more little growths started to appear on the stems. I went on with my days, now working three jobs, trying to pitch an article to anyone that would hear me, and coming home excited to tend to a plant that I treated as a pet. She became a favorite part of my day. But through the whirlwind of the bustling days, there might have been times that went by without her being watered. I

withered plant, I went to bed. After a couple days, I woke up one morning and shuffled to the stove to turn on the kettle, and I noticed a brighter green hue. Those leaves that started to gray had actually

was another reminder of nature’s resilience, and how she continues to teach, nurture, and feed through the most extreme conditions; it was another reminder that we can do the very same for ourselves.

become purple. Her green body started to

This city isn’t always the best place to get back

bloom; the growth surprised me. She was

to that space where I plug in, but it doesn’t

surviving. With the best leaves she had, I

mean that it won’t always be that space. I’m

picked just a few off for tea. The leaves were

constantly reminded that growth and rebirth

tender, and tore softly. The kettle whistled, I

happens constantly, every day. And the way

poured warm water over the crushed leaves,

that we overcome our own obstacles is not by dodging the hard parts, instead it’s about

thought I did a pretty good job of keeping

accepting that it wouldn’t be easy if there

up with it, but at this point it started

wasn’t a difficult step to the process.

to wither, and at a time where I felt

Consider your roots, connecting to

my hope start to dwindle.

that which brings us back to where

I felt stuck among working too many

we came from.

jobs, yet still in this phase of finding

We’re inhabitants of this land, and the

a “dream job.” I tried to make sure

relationship with us and the Earth is

I called my parents enough, paid

two-fold. She provides for us, and we

the rent, oh yeah – my student

should constantly, and consistently, be

loans are due, the utility bill’s

taking care of her. And I know, that when

tomorrow, and ultimately, I was

we do so, she nudges us. Throughout

trying to remember why I even

all of this, I just wanted to write.

came to New York in the first place.

I wanted to be heard. Once I

I wanted a career and fulfillment

became grounded in those roots,

and generally, a sense that I was

and kept going through the dip,

going somewhere, probably what a

I found that I was determined to keep

lot of people want. In those feelings,

it going. I kept writing, whether it was to

I became disconnected. I stopped

anyone or to myself. I wrote about food

writing. It seemed like no matter where

for myself, scribbled down recipe ideas

I went or what I did or wrote, I could feel that I wasn’t plugged in. My actions

and sipped. It was herby, slightly bitter,

started to feel limp and hollow, as if my

and satisfying; and it made me very giddy to

movement wasn’t producing any results to

know she wouldn’t keep drooping.

move me forward. And after I had seen my purple veined plant start to turn, fall, and become gray, I felt like in some odd way she understood me. Were we both going down? Was the combination of the winter’s cold and the uncontrollable use of the radiator going to dishearten us both? Maybe, but I watered her anyway. Giving whatever hope that was left to my small plot of soil and

for nothing other than wanting to, and started challenging myself to write the best descriptions about biting into an apple. And I am here, writing, being heard. Hopefully

I gave her more water, and she continued to

we all find the strength to plug in, and to not

grow, and I began to realize what she might

shut down when the struggle comes. Because

have been trying to show me. Sometimes we

it’s absolutely necessary and it’s absolutely a

go limp, maybe droop, and things even go

wholesome, beautiful thing. No growth is

gray, but that doesn’t mean we have to stay

done without struggle, and beautiful things

there. We can grow back, with hope and

come from dirt and heat and sweat and tears.

even a little water. (Really, stay hydrated.)

The sun will shine, and the growing pains

The earth, in whatever small reminders we

will subside, but you have to feel them first.

can try and take her in, provides for us. It

r

Chickpea magazine #28 earth

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