Food Know How - Sumac

Sumac

Patches of sumac can be found all over the country. Bright red sumac berries are dried and ground to create a stunningly hued sour spice used in a range of applications. While it’s only recently gained popularity in the mainstream United States, sumac has long been a favorite spice of indigenous people and across the Middle East and the Mediterranean. Eastern sumac isn’t as sour as others, but it still lends its unique tartness to balance out a drink.

New York City-based bartender, Zev Glesta, is a longtime fan of sumac. Glesta, an avid proponent of foraged goods and “wild” foods, shared that part of his interest in sumac is that it’s an easy to find wild product that thrives across a wide range of habitats and is easy to grow.

One of the benefits with sumac is that you can get the acidic flavor of lemon without adding extra liquid, which can be a helpful tool. “Sour is a huge part of all beverages,” explains Glesta. “I personally love sumac in agave and sugarcanebased cocktails, like a Margarita or a sour variant like a Daiquiri. Although I would never discount a good G&T with a sprig of sumac in it.”

One of the easiest ways to make use of sumac is with a syrup, but you can use it simply as a garnish or in an infusion as well.

“Dehydrating and mixing sumac with salt is also a great alternative,” shares Glesta. “Infusing with sumac is easy. Infuse sumac with vodka for a couple of days, and automatically have a head start to a perfect Cosmo.” There’s no wrong answer to what spirit goes best with this versatile ingredient.

Sumac Your Lips

By Zev Glesta

INGREDIENTS

2 oz. mezcal ¾ oz. sumac syrup* ¾ oz. lemon juice

PREPARATION

Shake all ingredients together, strain and pour into a flute glass. Top with soda and garnish with lemon curl. *Sumac syrup: Combine 1 ½ cups sugar and 2 cups water in saucepan and heat over medium, stirring occasionally until dissolved. Add 3 tbsp. ground sumac, allow mix to steep 5-10 minutes. Strain through a cheesecloth; refrigerate up to a week.

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