Viestra Magazine

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March 2019 | viestramagazine.com

SEYCHELLES

NOT JUST ANOTHER PLACE, ANOTHER WORLD

Adventure Travel in BRAZIL 36 Hours in CAPE TOWN

DREAMY DORSET’S Exclusive Hideaway Japan’s OKINAWA ISLANDS

VIENNA VIENNA An An Emerging Emerging Cultural Cultural Hub Hub

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Also inside: Three Great Hotels in Devon Not to be Missed 20 Spas an Hour From London • Relaxation and Adventure in Sardinia

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The USA’S pick of Hot New Hotels for 2019


FAVOURITE EXPERIENCE? MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF MACHU PICCHU BREATHTAKING... Speak to a specialist on 020 8712 9673 2 or visit journeylatinamerica.co.uk


As the UK's No.1 specialist in travel to Latin America, we've been creating award-winning holidays to every corner of the region for nearly 40 years. Trust in our experience to create yours. 3


HELLO TRAVELLERS! 2018 ended on a high note for me as I was able to tick off a destination that’s been on my travel bucket list since the beginning of time: Seychelles. I returned home after a week-long digital detox in paradise feeling totally zenned out. My whole outlook on life seemed different and the small things didn’t seem to stress me out anymore. Even my daughter told me I returned a bit less shouty: she’s definitely a fan of the new me. It made me realise that I need to disconnect from the digital world more often, and also intentionally take time to relax. I’m the type of traveller who normally has a whole schedule of activities to do, places to see and things to eat before I even arrive at my destination: I am

Editor: Alex Holman alex@viestramagazine.com Advertising: Simon Hossack simon@viestramagazine.com Marketing and PR: Katie Saunders katie@viestramagazine.com Design Manager: Catherine Clarke Contributing writers: Rob Tindall, Jo Gardner, Frankie Potter, Katie Saunders and Gareth Davies

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2019 has started off with a flurry of activity in the Viestra office with the staff flying off all over the world. Some are travelling to the sun, and some to the snow, as we continue to discover new places to recommend to our readers.

Alex Holman, Editor

the queen of being busy. But noticing the benefits of my zenful week away made me realise that slowing down is also very important for my mental well-being. So, lesson learned: in 2019 I will travel more intentionally (and not check my emails 20 times on weekends).

Contact: Advertising and Editorial call 020 3623 0567. Publisher: Paul Williams viestramagazine.com #viestratravel @viestramag

I like to the think of the Viestra team as connoisseurs of our trade: constantly discovering new ingredients people use to make their unique recipes, and we get to test these recipes to see what works and what doesn’t. Whether it’s ‘crisp’ sheets, a ‘fragrant’ hotel aroma or a ‘full-bodied’ experience, we love exploring new places and reporting back to you with our findings. Why not pop over to our social media accounts and tell us where you’d like us to explore next? You never know, we might add it to our 2019 bucket list! Enjoy your travels. Alex x

Viestra Magazine is published by PWR Media, Unit 22, 295 Chiswick High Road, London, United Kingdom W4 4HH. 20,000 distributed at major travel hubs, corporate HQ’s and supermarkets. 30,000 distributed via supermarkets and subscriptions. Viestra Magazine and the Viestra logo is a registered trademark registered as a Trade Mark with the UK Intellectual Property Office Trade Mark number: UK00003257230. ©PWR Media 2018. All rights reserved.

Viestra Magazine

Cover image: Blue Safari by Anthony Grote.

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CONTENTS

6. SEYCHELLES

12. BRAZIL

16. CAPE TOWN

22. VIENNA

29. BAILIFFSCOURT

34. ZURICH

40. COUNTRY KIDS RESORT

44. ROME

50. SARDINIA

56. OKINAWA ISLANDS

62. USA’S HOT HOTELS

68. DORSET’S EXCLUSIVE HIDEAWAY

74. 20 SPAS AN HOUR FROM LONDON

80. GREAT HOTELS IN DEVON

84. BARCELONA

90. PARIS

HOTEL & SPA

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WORLDWIDE

SEYCHELLES NOT JUST ANOTHER PLACE, ANOTHER WORLD

Traditionally associated with beautiful beaches and dramatic landscapes, the Seychelles islands are at the top of the world’s list of romantic destinations, perfect for a lazy tropical retreat. In addition to the ultimate sun, sand and sea holiday the archipelago has much more to offer: these islands provide an opportunity to totally disconnect while being at one with nature. Alex Holman spends a week in Seychelles, starting her trip in a modern luxury six bedroom villa on the inner Island of MahÊ, and ending it in a secluded beach side bungalow on the private outer island of Alphonse. WORDS BY ALEX HOLMAN

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Image credit: Keith Rose-Innes.

WORLDWIDE

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WORLDWIDE There are two categories of islands in Seychelles: the granitic 'Inner' featuring lush green peaks, old-growth forests and white sand beaches, and the 'Outer': a formation of flat islands extending westwards towards the coast of Africa. The majority of the population lives on the 'inner Islands' which are the cultural focal point of Seychelles, while the 'Outer Islands' offer an incomparable island experience due to being little touched by man. EDEN BLEU Eden Bleu Hotel is located on Eden Island, off the coast of Mahé, only 10 minutes from Seychelles International Airport and 5 km from the capital, Victoria. I arrive at the hotel reception area straight after the long flight from London, where the cold towel and iced tea I’m offered are both well received. We’re provided with two golf buggies for our group of six to move freely around the island during our stay and we make our way to our accommodation.

We spend the afternoon relaxing at the villa taking in our beautiful surroundings and in the evening a hotel chef arrives and, along with table service, we are served a delicious meal in the comfort of our own villa. We feel honoured to have the first Seychellois person to be an executive chef in a 5 star hotel cooking for us this evening, and the food is a spectacular hit with each course matching the one before in sublime flavours. The next day, after our buffet style breakfast in the main hotel, we board a mini bus which takes us to Beau Vallon beach where we are able to recline on the white sand and wade into the crystal clear blue water. Eden Bleu provides us with a big packed lunch and plenty of refreshments to keep us satisfied on our day excursion. There is a small market taking place on the road behind the beach and we’re kept entertained by some local beats and the fragrant smell of the Seychelles street food. We dine at The Marlin Bleu Restaurant for dinner in the Eden Bleu Hotel, where we sit poolside, with views over the Eden Island international marina, enjoying our meal from the special Josper Oven - an enclosed charcoal fired grill which cooks meat and fish to a superb standard. The highlight of my evening is driving the golf buggy home while a little tipsy. While not wanting to glorify drink driving (I would never do it in a real car on a real road) it is spectacularly fun with everyone left laugh-

ing at my rambunctious manoeuvres and brazen parking. ALPHONSE ISLAND After a smooth one hour flight from Mahé to Alphonse Island in a small private plane, we touch down on the landing strip, which runs down the centre of the entire island, and I spend the day relaxing by the pool. This pool is one like no other: surrounded by a small mix of wooden day beds and sun loungers with a view, past the typical beach style open bar area, right out to the ocean. I lie here thinking how lucky I am to be in such an idyllic place. While the pool area is almost empty, there are always a couple of herons regally strutting around or having a little sip from the pool water to cool down. What a strange experience to have these large birds enjoying the pool area with me, but I love it and I can’t stop watching them go about their business. In the evening we enjoy an interesting conservation talk in the ‘cinema’ room - a room consisting of rows of giant comfy armchairs facing a wall with a projector followed by a delicious Indian buffet dinner full of a wide and interesting variety of dishes. With the tables positioned in the sand it’s a lovely experience kicking off my shoes under the table and feeling the sand under my feet: a bit surreal while having dinner and a wonderful way to feel connected to nature. After a few drinks at the bar I return to my room, on one of the bicycles provided by all guests to get around the island, to catch up on some sleep. I can’t keep my eyes off the sky while I cycle home. Without much light pollution the stars are out in force and I stop my bike half way back to my hut to simply gaze at them.

Eden Bleu

Our private villa comprises of six en-suite bedrooms, a large open plan living and dining area and two fully equipped kitchens. We have a big outdoor veranda with

plenty of seating leading onto a garden with a stunning 16m infinity pool overlooking the ocean. The accommodation is a modest mix of fresh island style and modern ‘home away from home’ luxury. And, in true modern-day form, we all quickly connect to the wifi upon arriving.

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WORLDWIDE My second day in paradise starts early, and today I enjoy two half-day excursions: a manta ray snorkelling experience and a trip to nearby Bijoutier island. For the manta ray experience we meet at the ‘Activity Centre’ and, after watching a brief informative video, board a luxury catamaran and head out to spot some rays. During our trip, as well as a sighting of a pod of a few hundred migrating dolphins, we don our snorkelling gear twice and jump into the water with the manta rays. I get to see these majestic creatures gliding through the water with my own eyes - it is a once in a lifetime experience which I will never forget. For the afternoon activity we take a smaller boat to Bijoutier: a small uninhabited island about a 20 minute boat ride from Alphonse. We walk around the island and our guide speaks to us about this island and its history. During our walk, we come upon a large sea turtle trying to find a good spot to make its nest, but she’s in an overgrown area and can’t dig very well, so she eventually comes out back onto the sand and carries on looking for a suitable spot. We watch quietly, not wanting to disturb her, then we move on to let her find a place to lay her eggs alone. Something that fascinates me about Bijoutier island is the amount of rubbish washed ashore. Our guide tells us they come and clean the rubbish off this island once a week, but we pick up everything we see and fill half a bin bag full of things which have floated across the ocean. It definitely makes one realise that, if this tiny island can collect this much rubbish in the space of one week, then the plastic pollution in the ocean must be pretty bad! Quite the reality check. I make a mental note to cut down my plastic use. We do a bit of snorkelling with our guide and he points out different fish species to us and we see a sea turtle swimming around too. I’ve snorkelled in many places in my life but I’ve never seen this many fish before in a natural environment, especially when a large shoal of fish happens to join us, with what looks like thousands of fish swimming all around us.

I enjoy watching this prize giving each evening, and tonight, quite out of the blue, my name is called for my effort in cleaning up Bijoutier beach. I go to the front with a couple of others from my group who also helped

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Eden Bleu

At the end of each day the fishermen all go to the beach bar where they have a ceremony of sorts. There are a specific few fish that are big prizes to catch (which include Trevally, Milkfish, Bonefish, Permit and Triggerfish) and if one is caught that day the fisherman’s name gets called out, they walk up to the front where they take a shot and ring a bell, and everyone applauds their catch. It’s a really nice way to finish off the day and encourages a sense of camaraderie.

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WORLDWIDE with the beach clean and, after we down our shots and ring the bell, we are each given a wooden pin with a sandal on it. It makes me feel happy and like I’m part of the Alphonse family. I attach my pin to my camera case, and there it will stay to always remind me of my special trip to the Seychelles. The next morning I wake up super early and meet up with some people from the Island Conservation Society for ‘Turtle Patrol’: a walk around the outskirts of whole island finding new turtle nests. The Island Conservation Centre was established in 2007 and ensures the key aspects of the ecosystem are well maintained and cared for. I continue with my ecological education after breakfast, on a reef flats walk with a guide and a group of people also staying at the resort. We put on our reef shoes and walk in the shallow waters looking for anything that interests us. We see sea turtles grazing on sea grass, baby lemon sharks swimming around together, hundreds of brittle stars and plenty of hermit crabs. In the afternoon my group go on ‘the kitchen run’. At Alphonse island there is a strict catch and release policy: the only fish they are allowed to catch and take home are the fish they plan to eat and feed to the guests. The ‘kitchen run’ is the fishing done to feed the island. Fishing isn’t my thing so I stay on Alphonse but, for anyone who is interested in fishing, Alphonse is world renowned for this sport so this would be the place to go!

Images by (top to bottom): Anthony Grote, Fiona Ayerst, Anthony Grote.

I while away my time by the pool and I go to the spa for a massage. Upon first entering the spa my senses are instantly calmed by the lovely aromatic oils I can smell in the air. I’m a regular massage go-er, and I certainly know good from bad, and Lucy’s massage is magical. There is a bowl of floating frangipanis under the face hole of the massage table so it’s nice to open my eyes occasionally and see them floating colourfully down below. With soft yet incredibly firm hands Lucy uses all sorts of methods to release the tension from my body and, when it’s finished, I sit up from the table feeling gloriously light and floaty, and smelling wonderful.

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After my massage I’m given a little feedback on where in my body Lucy could sense tension and stagnation, and I’m given some advice on how to get things back on track. I leave wanting Lucy to be my best friend so she can make me feel this wonderful every single day (I’m not sure what I can give in return in our new best-friendship... I’ll have to think more on that one). I wake up on my last day feeling bittersweet. I’ve set my alarm early and I walk down to the beach area right in front of my hut. I sit down with my camera and take in the colours of the sky and listen to the water gently lapping in front of me while I watch a ghost crab scuttling around and turning over shells looking for food, while a small hermit crab hides from it inside its protective shell. After a final tour of Alphonse Island, where my favourite part is visiting the home grown fruit and vegetable patch, where the majority of the delicious food we’ve enjoyed during our stay on the island has been grown, and seeing the 2,200 solar panel ‘farm’, we hang out on a repurposed boat turned bar, where we are made fresh fruit smoothies served accompanied by the biggest smile on the whole island. I love how happy all the staff seem to be here... well, they do get to live in paradise!

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WORLDWIDE EDEN BLUE www.edenbleu.com Eden Bleu Beach Residences and Villas give access to four private beaches, swimming pools, as well as facilities that include a gym, a clubhouse, a tennis court and a kids’ play area. All of this just footsteps away from the heart of Seychelles cosmopolitan area where you will find bars, restaurants, casino, spa, banks, medical services and supermarket. A nightly rate on a bed & breakfast basis in a six bedroom villa cost from £1100 for 12 people per night, in the Presidential Suite from £1150 based on 2 people sharing, and a Luxury Marina View Room for £450 for two people sharing at the Eden Bleu Hotel. Contact Details: Tel: +248 439 9100 | +248 439 9010 Email: reservations@edenbleu.com info@edenbleu.com ALPHONSE ISLAND www.alphonse-island.com Alphonse Island features a single resort comprising of Beach Bungalows and Suites built alongside the water’s edge, each with scenic ocean views. Freedom of movement around the island on foot or bicycle permits self-discovery of the wonders of this special place. The bar area, pool and lounge area provides the ideal venue to relax in the evening breeze after a day out in the sun and houses the restaurant which serves freshly caught seafood of the highest quality. Alphonse Island is a refuge for people looking for an authentic and unspoilt island experience. A seven-night full-board (excl beverages but incl inter-island small plane transfers) holiday staying on Alphonse Island in a Beach Bungalow costs from $12,900 per couple and in a Beach Suite cost from $18,500 per couple. Contact Details: Tel: +248 422 9700 | +248 422 9030 Email: reservations@alphonse-island.com info@alphonse-island.com Skype: reservations@alphonse-island. com

Blue Safari Seychelles offers trips to the atolls and islands of Astove, Cosmoledo, Poivre, Alphonse and the Amirantes. Blue Safari Seychelles has a strong environmental ethos, and the company has been designed to help conserve these rare islands and atolls through sensitively designed tourism projects.

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Top two images by: Anthony Grote.

BLUE SAFARI www.bluesafari.com

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WORLDWIDE

ADVENTURE TRAVEL IN

BRAZIL

One of the great things about Brazil is its reputation for being a place of endless adventure. There are countless places to explore, all beautiful but also different with all their unique charms. Whilst Brazil is known for its amazing cities, food, culture and unforgettable nightlife; it is also home to some of the world’s most breath-taking National Parks. WORDS BY ROB TINDALL

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Image: Fernando de Noronha. © ‘Embratur’ and ‘RioTur’.

WORLDWIDE

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WORLDWIDE Brazil’s natural environments are spectacular and not to be missed – especially for those who both want to explore eco-tourism destinations and have an adventurous streak. Brazil’s wildlife and natural points of interest give the country special character – giving travellers even more reason to explore its greatness. Read on to discover some of Brazil’s most spectacular national parks that shouldn’t be missed:

IGUAÇU NATIONAL PARK – PARANÁ Iguaçu (strong water in Tupi-Guarani language) National Park is renowned for its 275 waterfalls which have existed for 150 million years, witnesses of a time when the Earth was still inhabited by dinosaurs and the rise of man was not on the horizon. These natural waterfalls are breath-taking and travellers can spend hours exploring, whether they want to hike, walk or climb! It is not surprising that the waterfalls are considered one of The New Seven Wonders of Nature. The Park, listed as Natural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO, is home to over 2,000 plant species and has hiking trails and lookouts where you will have direct contact with the flora and fauna of the place. But if you want to be even closer to the local nature, you can practice radical sports such as rafting and rappelling, facing turbulent waters and descending through unforgettable landscapes. Do not worry about safety because all rides and equipment are certified.

TIJUCA NATIONAL PARK – RIO DE JANEIRO Located in the centre of Rio de Janeiro, Tijuca National Park covers 3,200 hectares of forest. The Park is remarkable. What started as just a huge area of forestland has been slowly transformed into an area of public leisure. Designated as a National Park in 1961, it features unique scenery bringing nature and culture together in perfect harmony. Tijuca National Park features works of art, restaurants and other services. This all works in favour of eco-tourism, whilst preserving one of the countries natural beauties. Interestingly, the park also grants a historical touch. Areas of the park date back to the age of the coffee empire such as the Mayrink Chapel, the Solidão Weir and Cascatinha.

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The park is divided in sectors. A great starting point is the Visitor Center, located in Sector A (Forest), where new trail groups are organised. The main lookout points are located in Sector B (Serra da Carioca), such as the Chinese View. Sector C (Pedra da Gávea/Pedra Bonita) is the best choice for the more adventurous types.

SERRA DOS ÓRGÃOS NATIONAL PARK – RIO DE JANEIRO For those who want to explore and go on grand adventures, Serra dos Órgãos National Park provides exactly that. Located in the mountain region of Rio de Janeiro, it expands through the towns of Guapimirim, Magé, Petrópolis and Teresópolis and gets its name from the resemblance of its peaks to the tubes of a church organ. Its mountains are simply magnificent. With its rocky cliff tops and waterfalls, such as Véu da Noiva, the park is perfect for mountain sports such as climbing and rappelling. It also has some of the best hiking trails in the country, with over 200 km of paths for all levels of hiking ability. It is also worth mentioning that Serra dos Órgãos National Park is home to 15 of the best rock climbs in the world, such as Dedo de Deus.

ing fish schools, barracudas, sea turtles, corals, octopuses, squids, lobsters and several species of sharks. When wreck diving in the archipelago, travellers can find one of the best-preserved wrecks in the country, the Corveta Ipiranga. It is so well preserved that divers can still see multiple intact objects such as cupboards and kitchen appliances. Another ship that can be seen whilst driving in this natural wonder is the Greek Eleane Stathatos. When out of the water, the Fernando de Noronha islands are simply beautiful. Its clear blue waters and golden sands are not to be missed and the perfect place to relax after a day of exploring. Other activities the island offers include boat rides and observing dolphins, again, promoting Brazil’s commendable conservation of wildlife. These truly unique parks show off both Brazil’s adventurous side and the country’s impressive ecosystem. For those that want to explore and visit parts of the world that are eco-friendly and full of pure natural beauty – these are the places to go!

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:

WWW.VISITBRASIL.COM

FERNANDO DE NORONHA – PERNAMBUCO Brazil’s natural wonders are not restricted to land; Brazil’s eco-tourism expands to water. The waters of Fernando de Noronha are magical and there are many ways to explore and experience them. People can snorkel or participate in autonomous and wreck diving in Fernando de Noronha. Diving regions are home to a wide variety of fish, includ-

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Images (bottom left to right): Two Brothers Rock by Ciroamado Serra dos Órgãos, National Park by Carlos Perez Couto, Fernando de Noronha. © ‘Embratur’ and ‘RioTur’.

Image: Iguaçu National Park. © ‘Embratur’ and ‘RioTur’.

WORLDWIDE

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36 HOURS IN

36 HOURS IN

CAPE TOWN

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36 HOURS IN

With direct flights, no time difference and a great rate on the rand, there’s never been a better time to visit Cape Town. With endless places to see in Africa, Cape Town can be used as a stop-off point in between travelling on to other destinations. Jo Gardner discovers the main things to see when you’ve got a short amount of time there.

WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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Images (clockwise from top right): Table Mountain - Cape Town Tourism, Boulders Beach - Olga Ernst, Whisky Tastings at Bascule Bar at Cape Grace Hotel, Superior Room Marina View at Cape Grace Hotel, Vergelegen, Cape Grace Hotel.

36 HOURS IN Pretty, trendy, arty, friendly and a dab hand in the kitchen, if Cape Town was a woman, she would almost certainly be the envy of all her family and friends. Despite a relatively long flight, the lack of jet-lag on the ground means the city is do-able over a handful of days – something I highly recommend given how cheap it is in situ. I’m visiting Cape Town on the back of a trip to Namibia (Cape Town also makes a great twin-centre with a Kenyan safari), landing into the city on a clear, sunny day. If you only have a day or two to play with, I recommend getting the most out of the city by booking a driver or hiring a car. DAY 1 MORNING Get your bearings from the top of Cape Town’s Table Mountain, a 60-millionyear-old structure named because its flat surface resembles a table. I prebook my ticket for the cable car (recommended if you want to avoid queuing) and keep my fingers crossed for a clear day - I luck out. Cameras at the ready as you ascend the five-minute revolving cable car with its breathtaking 360-degree views. Once at the top, marvel at the cosmopolitan city below with its beaches, famous landmarks and waterfront - it’s a sight so alluring I nearly run out of memory on my phone (take a proper camera if you have one, it’s well worth it). Back down, I hungrily tuck into toasted coconut bread, eggs and coffee at DAY 2 MORNING Start the day with a refreshing swim at the Sea Point Pavilion near the V&A waterfront (remember: the seasons are reversed here so temperatures should be a very pleasant 26 degrees right now). There are four outdoor pools to choose from, including a 50-metre pool for serious swimmers and a splash pool for kids. AFTERNOON As if art, culture, beaches, wildlife and great food isn’t enough, Cape Town has something else up its sleeve to wow visitors: 100,000 hectares of vineyards – it’s little wonder South Africa is the world’s 9th largest producer of wines. With so many to choose from, and relatively little time, I ask the locals for two recommendations and soon arrive

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Manna Epicure before strolling along Long Street, with its restored Victorian buildings and collection of shops, cafes and bars. AFTERNOON One of the most surprising things about Cape Town is the presence of penguins – yes, you can see penguins in Africa. Part of Table Mountain National Park, Boulders Beach is home to hundreds of these black and white characters, which simply mill around as you relax on the white sand or walk along the wooden walkways. From here it’s a short drive to Cape Point, the tip of the peninsula with its beautiful coastline, hiking spots and wildlife. I’m slightly alarmed by the number of baboons jumping on the car as we drive along the coast, but am assured by my driver that they will do no harm. If you can stay longer, let the Flying Dutchman Funicular take you up to the lighthouse, stopping for lunch at the restaurant at the top which serves slices of hot pizza and glasses of cold beer to enjoy while drinking in the views.

at Groot Constantia in the Constantia district, South Africa’s oldest winery founded in 1685. A Dutch Renaissance manor house, it sits handsomely amid rows of vines, and is famous for producing deep Pinotages and crisp Sauvignon Blancs. It lists Napoleon Bonaparte, Queen Victoria, Charles Dickens and Jane Austen among its patrons too. A little further away, in Somerset, is the second recommendation: Vergelegen Estate. Work up a thirst by exploring the estate’s meandering gardens, and camphor and yellow wood forest. If you’re here for a special occasion, pre-book a forest picnic complete with picnic hampers, local produce and waiters that will automatically top up your wine glass. I head to Stables, a bistro restaurant, instead where I enjoy a fresh pea and mint quiche with salad and some wine tastings. The mountainous views make it all the more special.

EVENING There’s no shortage of places to eat and drink in Cape Town, with every conceivable type of cuisine available. I start the evening with a glass of bubbly on the terrace of the Radisson Blu Hotel overlooking the Victoria & Albert (V&A) waterfront, a stunning marina where sails punctuate the blue sky, and restaurants, hotels and bars set up residence in historic warehouses. Willoughby & Co, a Japanese restaurant on the waterfront, has been recommended to me for its delicious clam chowder. I love the no-nonsense approach to local fish at this spot, which is served in salads, with noodles, as tempura, in creamy soups or as fresh sushi… And the chowder doesn’t disappoint. My accommodation of choice is the Cape Grace Hotel, also on the V&A waterfront, and renowned for its bar concealing the largest collection of whisky in the southern hemisphere (members even have their own lockers in which to store rare bottles to sip during visits). I enjoy a nightcap here before retiring to my spacious room which creaks with African colonial vibes.

EVENING Start the evening in Cape Town with a craft beer at the Beerhouse on Long Street, which has 99 beers on tap and in bottles, or with a cocktail at Orphanage Cocktail Emporium which, as the name suggests, serves a wide selection of cocktails. If your visit is on a Tuesday, return to Kloof Street and settle in at Asoka, an Asian themed restaurant, bar and lounge known for its fairy-lightwrapped olive tree, the largest in Cape Town. Live jazz begins here at 8pm and is free to enjoy. For visits on Thursdays or Saturdays, return to Long Street and saunter into SGT Pepper, a retro-style bar and live music venue with plenty of Beatles memorabilia to remind you of home. Talking of home, it’s the end of my whistle-stop tour of Cape Town; unlike the mountain dominating the city, the experience has been anything but flat.

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36 HOURS IN

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Image: The Table Mountain Cableway at Sunset.

36 HOURS IN

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36 HOURS IN HOW TO DO IT SIGHTSEEING • TABLE MOUNTAIN TABLEMOUNTAIN.NET • CAPE POINT CAPEPOINT.CO.ZA • SEA POINT PAVILLION WESTERNCAPE.GOV.ZA WHERE TO STAY • CAPE GRACE HOTEL W QUAY RD, V & A WATERFRONT, 8002 +27 21 410 7100 CAPEGRACE.COM EATING & DRINKING • MANNA EPICURE 151 KLOOF ST, GARDENS, 8001 +27 21 426 2413 MANNAEPICURE.COM • RADISSON BLU HOTEL WATERFRONT 100 BEACH RD, GRANGER BAY, CAPE TOWN, 8001 +27 21 441 3000 RADISSONBLU.COM • WILLOUGHBY & CO. 6130 & 6132, VICTORIA WHARF SHOPPING CENTRE, BREAKWATER BLVD, V & A WATERFRONT, 8001 +27 21 418 6115 WILLOUGHBYANDCO.CO.ZA • BEERHOUSE 223 LONG STREET, CAPE TOWN CITY CENTRE, 8000 +27 21 424 3370 BEERHOUSE.CO.ZA

LIVE MUSIC • ASOKA RESTAURANT, BAR AND LOUNGE 68 KLOOF ST, GARDENS, 8001 +27 21 422 0909 ASOKA.ZA.COM • SGT PEPPER 194 LONG STREET, CAPE TOWN CITY CENTRE, 8000 +27 21 424 5608 SGTPEPPERCT.COM VINEYARDS • GROOT CONSTANTIA GROOT CONSTANTIA RD, CONSTANTIA, 7806 +27 21 794 5128 GROOTCONSTANTIA.CO.ZA • VERGELEGEN WINE ESTATE LOURENSFORD RD, SOMERSET WEST, 7130 +27 21 847 2100 VERGELEGEN.CO.ZA

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Images (top to bottom): Groot Constantia, Penguins at Boulders Beach.

ORPHANAGE COCKTAIL EMPORIUM 227 BREE ST, CAPE TOWN CITY CENTRE, 8000 +27 21 424 2004 ORPHANAGECLUB.CO.ZA

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WEEKENDS AWAY

VIENNA AN EMERGING CULTURAL HUB

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WEEKENDS AWAY

Vienna, Austria’s capital, attracts visitors with its Imperial palaces, elegant restaurants and rich cultural experiences. Vienna has something for everyone: art, food, wine, history, scenery… the list could go on. But what makes the city so special is how all of these work so well together to create such a unique atmosphere.

Image: Wieninger vinyard © Stefan Csáky.

WORDS BY FRANKIE POTTER

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WEEKENDS AWAY Upon being asked to name the famous capital cities of Europe, your mind may naturally gravitate towards the likes of Paris, Rome or even London. Whilst these cities are certainly landmarks in terms of European culture, it is easy to forget that certain cities may slip under the radar of someone looking to expand their cultural vocabulary; none more so than the stunning Austrian capital of Vienna. DAY 1 BREAKFAST WITH A VIEW Our trip began with breakfast at our residency for the weekend, the recently-renovated SO/ Vienna. As soon as I walked through its doors the luxurious vibe juxtaposed with the playful energy of the hotel wowed me. From its avant-garde designs, feel for the latest trends, modern beats, excellent cuisines and So SPA, you can tell why even experienced travellers are inspired by this hotel. The SO/ Vienna is located along the banks of the Donaukanal, an entry to the Praterstrasse: filled with art, fashion, design and boutiques in Vienna’s 2nd District. A short walk from the SO/ Vienna also takes you into the historical city with access to public transport. The main railway station is a mere 7km away and the airport 19km. If this isn’t enough to tempt you to try SO/ Vienna for yourself, the ultra stylish yet comfortable rooms should be enough of a reason to visit. The rooms have been designed to ensure that you feel at home but with a vibrant touch of luxury.

Images: SO/ Vienna © Abacapress/Didier Delmus.

The welcoming atmosphere, which the hotel prides itself on, certainly made me eager to explore the city, a feeling which was increased even more by the elevated, all-encompassing view of the city, which the perfect location of the SO/ allowed us to admire whilst we took full advantage of the huge selection available at the breakfast buffet. HUT AND STIEL Our first proper insight into Viennese culture came with a trip to Hut and Stiel. These guys are experts in the art of growing mushrooms from used coffee beans. This new technique is not only very creative, but also an incredibly ethical and sustainable way of producing food in the city, something which is very in-keeping with the em-

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phasis which the city, as a whole, places on sustainable living. Our experience was made even more memorable by the enthusiasm of our tour guides and the obvious passion which they have for what they do. GUGUMUCK The art of serving snails as a delicacy is certainly something commonly associated with French cuisine. However, our trip to Gugumuck proved that this is not an exclusively French culinary experience. Our tasting experience involved not only sampling the different snail-based dishes, but also a tour of the place, with an interesting look at the growing and preparing of the snails. This is definitely somewhere for those visiting Vienna with a passion for food and trying new things. LUNCH AT MAYER AM PFARRPLATZ Now, for those wanting a truly authentic taste of Viennese cuisine, there is no better place than Mayer am Pfarrplatz. From chicken schnitzel to fried vegetables, a selection of traditional sausages to apple strudel; the food was perfectly complimented by the rustic aesthetic of the tavern’s interior and a musician fittingly playing traditional Austrian music on the accordion. As a keen connoisseur of European cuisine myself, I can confidently say that Mayer am Pfarrplatz is proof of Austrian food being up there with the best! HOHO WIEN Lunch was followed by a visit to HoHo Wien, the world’s tallest wooden skyscraper: another great example of the innovation which is spread throughout Vienna, whether it be in terms of the techniques of growing mushrooms at Hut and Stiel, or the architecture as seen here. Not only was HoHo made primarily out of wood, but our ascent to the top allowed for breathtaking views of the city overlooking the Danube River.

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Image: St. Stephen’s Cathedral by Bwag.

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Images (clockwise from top left): Vienna Escargot Farm Gugumuck © Stefan Csáky, St. Stephen’s Cathedral roof by Bwag, SO/ Vienna, Vienna Escargot Farm Gugumuck © Stefan Csáky, KHM © Stefan Csáky, Wieninger vineyard © Stefan Csáky.

RIDING VELLO BIKES I would have thought that after such a busy first day, the last thing on my mind would be wanting to ride a bike around the city. However, there is such a positive energy around Vienna that makes you want to keep exploring and staying active that I couldn’t wait to get on a bike! We used Vello bikes, which are electric, and made use of the many cycle lanes throughout the city. Cycling is massive in Vienna. With the high cost of parking and limited spaces, people are encouraged to cycle by the 1200km of cycle lanes and free bike rental all over the city. Quite frankly, the cycling culture in Vienna puts the number of ‘Boris Bikes’ in London to shame! (Note to self: cycling after such a big lunch may not have been the wisest decision…) DINNER AT SKOPIK AND LOHN To perfectly round off day one of the trip, we went for dinner at one of the trendiest eateries in Vienna. Compared to the traditional feel of our lunch at Mayer am Pfarrplatz, Skopik and Lohn focused on the joys of modern European cuisine, with a contemporary style of interior design by Austrian artist Otto Zitko to match. This contrast between the traditional lunch and the contemporary dinner perfectly captured what makes Vienna such a great city; they are certainly in touch with their traditional cultural values, but are also incredibly forward-thinking in many ways. Skopik and Lohn is another one of the places where it would be crazy not to go and eat at when you visit Vienna. DAY 2 VIENNA WINE After another delicious breakfast at SO/ Vienna to set us up for a new day, our trip took us to Wieninger winery. Here, we were given an incredibly in-depth look at the Austrian capital’s wine industry, from the manufacturing to distribution. As the only capital city in the world with a significant wine-growing industry within its city limits, it was great to really get the chance to appreciate the whole process and to experience such a vital aspect of what drives the city. Roughly 700 hectares of the city is occupied by vineyards and annual production reaches about 2.4 million litres, so the significance of the wine industry to the city cannot be overstated! What really made this an engaging experience was the passion of the people working at the winery, who really took pride in the creation and presentation of their product. Not only were we given a tour, but we were lucky enough to go

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to the Wieninger restaurant and sample some of the wines on offer with our lunch - could we really have gone to a winery without a bit of wine-tasting being involved!? SIGHTSEEING Walking around a city without any particular purpose or direction is something I always enjoy. It is a great way to see certain sights that perhaps aren’t normally advertised as ‘something you have to see’ and to just generally soak up the atmosphere and character of a place. Doing this in Vienna allowed me to see some of the city’s most impressive architecture (as well as giving me a chance to walk off the lunch from earlier on)! Buildings like St. Stephen’s Cathedral and the Hofburg former imperial palace were obviously stunning, but my eye was also caught by the street art along the Danube. This contrast between the traditional architecture and the modern street art was yet another example of how the city maintains a forward-thinking attitude whilst still being proud of its roots. Of course, I couldn’t resist sampling some of the local coffee! I chose the quite literally a hole in the wall - which had possibly the creamiest coffee I’ve ever had! It seemed a shame to not stop off at one of the many sausage stands that are scattered around the city, so I went for a bratwurst with horseradish - not a combination I would have been keen on trying before, but one that I have since desperately tried to recreate myself…to very limited degrees of success. DINNER AT KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM What better way to round off the trip than with a three-course meal at the Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna’s crowning museum of art history? This was built in 1891 to house the extensive collections of the Imperial family, and has gone from strength-to-strength ever since. Prior to dinner, we were lucky enough to be given a tour around the museum of paintings. As someone who has never fully delved into the world of art, this really gave me an appreciation of how moving it can be and how interesting the process is. The meal that followed was, of course, delicious, but what really made it an experience was being surrounded by the paintings in the Cupola Hall. Everyone was constantly gazing around to take in as much of their surroundings as possible, and we all seemed to have a per-

sonal favourite piece of art by the end of the night. Our last night was spent dancing the night away at Vienna’s very own Volksgarten Club. The music was great, the locals were friendly and it was a perfect end to a perfect trip. FINAL THOUGHTS Vienna has something for everyone: art, food, wine, history, scenery…the list could go on. But what makes the city so special is how all of these work so well together to create such a unique atmosphere. Traditional values are complemented perfectly by contemporary ideas, and in our packed two days there, I honestly felt like I had only scratched the surface of what the city has to offer. Ultimately, if I learnt one thing, it is that Vienna offers a healthy, active and engaging way of life for those who live there. Would I go back? Certainly. Should you visit Vienna soon? Most definitely. MAKE THE MOST OF VIENNA DISCOVER To find out about the latest events taking place in the city, and other general information, visit: vienna.info STAY • SO/ Vienna - Praterstraße 1, 1020 +43 1 906160 | so-vienna.com EAT & DRINK • Mayer am Pfarrplatz - Pfarrplatz. 2, 1190 | +43 1 3703361 | pfarrplatz.at • Skopik and Lohn - Leopoldsgasse 17, 1020 | +43 1 2198977 | skopikundlohn.at • Fenster Cafe - Fleischmarkt 9, 1010 +43 680 4458005 facebook.com/fenster.cafe/ • Kunsthistorisches Museum - Maria-Theresien-Platz, 1010 +43 1 525240 | khm.at EXPERIENCE • Hut and Stiel - Innstraße 5, 1200 +43 1 8139844 | hutundstiel.at • Gugumuck - Rosiwalgasse 44, 1100 +43 1 6185749 | gugumuck.com • Vello Bikes - Reinprechtsdorfer Strasse 58-60, 1050 | +43 660 6683556 vello.bike/home-en • Wieninger Vineyard - Stammersdorfer Str. 31, 1210 | +43 1 2901012 | wieninger.at • Volksgarten Club - M. Böhm Erös KG, Burgring, 1010 | +43 1 5324241 volksgarten.at SEE • HoHo Wien - Österreich, 1220 +43 1 3190382650 | hoho-wien.at • St. Stephen’s Cathedral - Stephansplatz 3, 1010 | stephanskirche.at • The Hofburg - Michaelerkuppel, 1010 +43 1 533 75 70 | hofburg-wien.at

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THE BAILIFFSCOURT HOTEL & SPA A HOME AWAY FROM HOME

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Set on 30 acres of verdant parkland, this tranquil high-end hotel, with direct access to Climping Beach, offers thirty-nine bedrooms in a series of charming houses and cottages ranging from contemporary to medieval. The elegant, individually designed rooms offer period features, free Wi-Fi and tea and coffee making equipment. Just a short drive out of London, with full English breakfast and parking included, a refined restaurant and bar plus a spa with an indoor pool and a gym: there’s nothing lacking from this delightful set up for the modern day traveller looking for a home away from home during a relaxing break from the city. WORDS BY KATIE SAUNDERS

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WEEKENDS AWAY Indulge yourself with a staycation at this luxury hotel and spa near Chichester and Portsmouth. I went with a friend for just one night for a midweek break and it was the perfect remedy to unwind. It was one of those staycations where you just don’t want to leave, and you start thinking about your own future home goals!

I

arrived at The Bailiffscourt Hotel & Spa in the afternoon, just shy of 4pm. Having grown up with grandparents in a small town in Norfolk and a country house in France it was quite nostalgic for me pulling up the long pebbled drive way, parking up and walking towards the entrance with my shoes crunching in the gravel. You are so close to London here yet it feels a million miles away. Historic and mighty, the walls are over a metre in thickness: it’s a sturdy and very warm house! We checked-in and were taken up to our room, called Baylies, in the main house. The room gives the impression it was designed for Kings and Queens! You will feel like royalty staying here as well as it being incredibly romantic. The ceilings are so high you could probably fit a two story building in it, and I don’t think I’m exaggerating about that. The four poster bed is king size, blissful and comfy. The sofa is next to the log fire and TV; the set up is like a living room that you’d have in a country home. In the bathroom there are two amazing roll top baths sitting side by side. There is also a shower if you’re not the bathing type (some people don’t like the idea of just lying in water). From trying it out I found that bathing with someone next to me in a separate bath and having their company was a relaxing and great experience! Shortly after arriving and getting settled I went to the spa for a full body aromatherapy massage. The Spa is a short distance from the main house; you’ll receive a beautifully illustrated map of the grounds in your room so you know where you are going as well as being informed in person by the hotel receptionist. Bailiffscourt Spa has been awarded The Good Spa Guide 5 Bubble Rating. Built in the style of a Sussex barn with dramatic exposed timber frame, and featuring expansive windows to allow the outdoors into the beautiful indoor pool area, the spa has received

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prestigious design awards. There is a wonderful choice of treatments on offer designed to relax, de-stress, revitalise and restore. I relaxed on the massage couch and tried out all of the facilities in the spa; the steam room, sauna, and both the indoor and outdoor pools and hot tubs. It happened to be an exceptionally windy day, with storm Diana over us, but I still ventured outside for a quick dip in the pool which was invigorating and exciting. The Spa is open until 9pm in the evenings and we relaxed by the indoor pool for a while before heading upstairs to get ready for dinner. The other guests at the spa were enjoying themselves with drinks in hand and reading magazines and relaxing. Coming here either with a friend or as a couple or just being alone would all be a lovely break. We arrived for dinner at 8pm which was held in a lovely room with extraordinary tapestries hanging on the walls. There was no music playing so it was peaceful and intimate and you can focus on and hear the people with you. Looking at the menu, I went for the pheasant: something I had never tried before. The pheasants are supplied locally from a chap called Jack. I was interested to know how it tast-

“...You’ll see peacocks and other wildlife, and little mushrooms growing inbetween the grass, because nature here is in abundance.”

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ed as I had seen two on the way to Bailiffscourt. It was very tasty and, I thought, a bit similar to duck. The rest of the menu was hearty and there was a variety of dishes available for everyone. That evening after dinner I enjoyed retiring back to my room and having snacks in front of the TV whilst snuggled up on the sofa. After a wonderful night’s sleep and a fresh breakfast I was up and ready for a walk around the grounds and, had we ventured further we would have made it to Climping beach, but the wind was picking up so, instead, we had a short game of croquet which was very fun! Bailiffscourt is stunning in the autumn with the fairy lights strung up; The Historic Sussex Hotels group have created a lovely atmosphere and experience. I also imagine it to be a great place to visit in the summer with both families and dogs being welcome in the hotel. There is so much space and lots of activities to do outside; such as relax on the ham-

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mocks, play football or have a game of tennis. You’ll see peacocks and other wildlife, and little mushrooms growing in-between the grass, because nature here is in abundance. Before we left, we checked out of our room and left our things in the car. We still had access to the main house and the spa after check out so another swim and a jaunt in the hot tub later our stomachs were rumbling, and so came the opportunity to have lunch here too! The Bailiffscourt Hotel is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, mid-morning coffee or a full afternoon tea. Instead of eating in the main dining room we found a lovely little lounge room in the main building and enjoyed chicken and chorizo croquettes there before heading back to London. From my experience of a midweek wellness break, with the chance to unwind and enjoy the spa and the fresh air, I was more than happy and look forward to going back again during the summer.

BAILIFFSCOURT HOTEL & SPA • Climping Street, Climping, Littlehampton BN17 5RW 01903723511 hshotels.co.uk/bailiffscourt • Prices start from £305 p/ night. MIDWEEK SPA BREAK & DINNER What’s included? • Overnight accommodation with full English breakfast • A delicious three-course dinner using the finest locally sourced ingredients • Full use of the spa facilities including indoor and outdoor heated swimming pools • A £60 voucher per couple to spend on a spa treatment • Prices from £340

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IT’S ALL ABOUT THE GRAM WORDS BY ALEX HOLMAN

Cotswolds Lavender Fields #FlowerFields

Dunes by Al Nahda #FoodGrammer

Muscat, Oman #SunsetVibes

Silky Oaks Lodge #LuxuryTravel

Kew Gardens #TropicalPlants

Sheraton Grand Mirage Hotel

Silvaplana, Switzerland #MountainView

Port Douglas #BoutiqueShopping

Beau Vallon, Seychelles #BeachGram

Harpa Concert Hall & Conference Centre #DanielLismore

Barcelona #TravelWithMe

Fritz Wieninger #VisitVienna

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#CocktailsOfInstagram

Middle of Nowhere #FromWhereISit

Chateau de Vaas #VisitSwitzerland

Pullman Cairns International

#HotelPool

Corviglia #SlopeStyle www.viestramagazine.com


At Viestra, we love to document our travels on our Instagram account. We’re sharing some of our favourite images that we’ve posted on Instagram from our journeys around the world over the last few months. Follow us at @viestratravel to see the latest up-to-date travel adventures from our team.

The Seagrave Arms #Cotswolds

Fitzroy Island #TropicalNorthQueensland

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque #ExperienceOman

Heinen’s Downtown Cleveland #IhaveThisThingWithCeilings

Cotswolds Lavender Fields #LavenderFields

Weymouth, Dorset #DorsetCoast

Al Nahda Resort & Spa #PinkFlowers

Kew Gardens #FlowerGram

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Market Pantry #FoodGrammer

Alphonse Island #PoolGoals

Cairns, Australia #LandscapesOfInstagram

Harwich and North Essex #PinkSunset

Dunes by Al Nahda #DesertVibes

Alphonse Island #PrivateIsland

Verbier, Switzerland #SwitzerlandWonderland

Moore Reef Pontoon, Great Barrier Reef

#SunloverReefCruises

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DESTINATION EUROPE

THE SUBTLE ATTRACTION OF

ZURICH

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DESTINATION EUROPE

Sitting on the eastern side of its eponymous lake, Zurich is one of Europe’s most recognised and visited cities, a centre of learning, finance and political machinations since the Roman Empire to the emergence of the old Swiss Confederation. Only an hour or so flight from London, the city in the north of Switzerland is a great destination for a weekend break, but can easily fulfil a longer stay given its rich culture and exciting social life.

Image: © Zürich Tourism.

WORDS BY PAUL WILLIAMS

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Top image: Cabaret Voltaire, Eingang © Zürich Tourism. Bottom image: Street Parade © Zürich Tourism

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Zurich lies at the north end of Lake Zurich, a city bursting with modernity that, in complete contrast, has one of the most enchanting Old Towns, known locally as the Altstadt, that sits either side of the azure coloured Limmat river. The pre medieval interlinking cobbled streets weave through the distinct buildings, harking back to an age when life was (probably) less complicated.

As ever, with a short break, it’s great to have a central base and, versus Airbnb, I always favour a hotel. The Glokenhof, a 4-star hotel established in 1911, offers 91 modern rooms, two restaurants, a bar & boulevardcafé, and the most beautiful, green courtyard of the city. It is located just off the famous Zürcher Bahnhofstrasse (shopping street), the main drag in Zurich, which runs from the main train station right up to the banks of Lake Zurich. With clean modern facilities and wonderful staff, this hotel makes for the perfect stay. There is simply so much to do in Zurich, so I’ve listed 10 of my key highlights; that should give you more than enough inspiration to visit this great city.

SWISS NATIONAL MUSEUM Museums are not everyone’s cup of tea; I mean, how many pots exactly can you look at from yesteryear? I’ve lost count. But, The Swiss National Museum has an alluring appeal and is one of the best I’ve visited. There is a constant exhibition taking visitors from prehistory through ancient times and the Middle Ages to the 20th century. The museum is very much dedicated to Gothic and Medieval art, and also has a fascinating account of Swiss national history, outlining the early diversity of its population and the influence of the Church over the land. I particularly enjoyed the Armoury Tower, and the antique coin collection will make you want to stop using your plastic cards. You can fleet around this in a couple of hours. Museumstrasse 2, 8001 Zürich. Admission: 10CHF over 17’s, Children Free. Closed Mondays. More info at nationalmuseum.ch

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FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM Ah yes, what a place! You don’t have to be a footy fan to appreciate the impact this game has had on global society, and the FIFIA Museum is undoubtedly a personal highlight. With regalia from footballers who have played in some of the most incredible games in the sport and a definitive history of the World Cup from its inception to present day, the museum walk through culminates in a cinematic experience that will rouse emotion made up of excerpts from all the World Cup Finals ever televised to create a ‘one match’ visual extravaganza. It also houses the original World Cup Trophy (eyes welled up!) and a brilliant interactive area for kids.

a fool, rushing in head over heels! Actually, the cobbled streets can be a bit slippery when wet, so the analogy is probably more relevant than you think. I don’t want to give you any spoilers, so trust me, this marvel of medieval architecture and engineering – its close proximity to the River is a feat in itself – should be a Unesco World Heritage site and you’ll be amazed at what you see as you wander the intricate streets. I’d recommend joining a city tour for this so you can digest the knowledge of a guide – the insights and stories about ‘Ye Ole Zurich’ are spellbinding – and make sure you check out the culinary and unique shops in the Niederdorf.

Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zürich. Admission: Single CHF24, Families CHF64. Closed Mondays. More info at fifamuseum.com

City Guides start at Zurich main station and can be booked at the Tourist Information Centre located in the main concourse of the station. Cost: CHF25 but 50% reduction with Zurich Card. More info at zuerich.com

LAKE ZURICH CRUISE

ÜETLIBERG MOUNTAIN

A trip to Switzerland is not complete without a trip on one of its great lakes. Lake Zurich’s jettys are within walking distance of the city centre and the boats offer a frequent service that allows flexible and affordable cruises on this beautiful body of water. With the Alps peaking over the horizon, it’s an absolute joy to view the city from the lake in its dramatic setting. All the boats have restaurants and if the lake is calm, you’d think you were floating on air – no beer/ wine spillage.

Make sure it’s a clear day and take a train up Zurich´s very own “mountain”, the Uetliberg (871 m/2,858ft), also known as the “Rooftop of Zurich”. A short walk from the top station to the summit is rewarded by spectacular views over the city and lake as far as the Alps in the distance. Anyone tackling the stairs to the top of the observation tower will find themselves at 2,953ft above sea level, from where they can enjoy an even more magnificent panorama, breathe in the fresh air and admire the grandeur of the Alps. The restaurant Uto Kulm is well worth a stop, light refreshment or full on dinner is available.

OLD TOWN (ALTSTADT) Well, what can I say – if you’ve been to and fallen in love with Ghent in Belgium, Lincoln in the UK or Bern in Switzerland, the Alstadt area of Zurich will have you like

Get the train at Zurich’s main station – prices vary, check at station – trains very frequent.

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DESTINATION EUROPE ZURICH OBERLAND STEAM TRAIN

BEYER CLOCK AND WATCH MUSEUM

Every second Sunday, railroad fans can take a trip on one of the best historical trains still in service. Operated by the Zurich Oberland Steam Train Association, this is a great trip for train enthusiasts, but also an exciting opportunity for travelling old style. Personally, train travel is the best way to travel, and when you are aboard a train thundering through the Swiss countryside, it’s an absolute joy.

As we all know, Switzerland is synonymous with watch making and time keeping – in all my visits to Switzerland, there has only ever been one occasion when a train was late, and that was only by 3 minutes. Anyway, this is one of the world’s leading private collections of clocks and time pieces. Around 260 very valuable exhibits present the history of timekeeping from 1400 BC to the present day: from sundials to water and tower clocks, Renaissance automata, magnificent pendulum clocks, elaborately decorated pocket watches and the prototype of the first quartz wristwatch. Scientific navigation devices are also featured. Private collections generously made available to the public are often the highlights of a city break for me, so I try and get to as many as possible. And this is one of the best, a horologist’s dream!

Cost: Adults one way CHF20, return CHF35. Under 16’s free if accompanied by an adult. More info at dvzo.ch

CHINESE GARDEN Take a step back to ancient China at Zurich’s very own Chinese garden. Highly regarded as the best example of its type outside of China, the garden is extremely popular with locals, a place of quiet reflection and peace. Located right by the lake at the Zürichhorn, the garden was a gift from the city’s Chinese twin town of Kunming. At the centre is a pond with a small island, pavilions and even a small palace on the banks. The garden was given in thanks for the technical and scientific support provided with expanding drinking water supplies and urban drainage in Kunming.

THERMALBAD & SPA ZURICH This is the ultimate chill out, the best city spa I’ve visited. Friendly staff, brilliant amenities and what a location – an old brewery supplied with Zurich’s natural waters. Bathing in 35-41c water above the rooftops of the city is something you have to experience, a real privilege and something a bit special. Chill out in the café where some of the best chocolate cake in the world is produced, you’ll love a slice after a detox! Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8002 Zürich. Cost: From CHF36. Open every day from 9am until 10pm. More info at thermalbad-zuerich. ch

GETTING THERE

Bellerivestrasse 138, 8008 Zürich. Admission: Adults CHF4, Children CHF1. More info at zuerich.com

• Viestra flew from Heathrow to Zurich with British Airways – visit ba.com for updated flight pricing.

CLOUDS RESTAURANT

• Viestra stayed at the charming Glokenhof Hotel, Sihlstrasse 31, 8001 Zürich. Tel. +41 44 225 91 91 / info@glockenhof.ch / glockenhof.ch/en

At the top of Zurich’s tallest building, the Prime Tower, is the Clouds Restaurant. I’d advise booking here as the place is immensely popular, but well worth it. Class like this comes with a bit of a price, so be prepared to push the boat out – you won’t be disappointed. You can always pop by and use the bar, so go at sunset – the view of the Alps at this time of day in summer is one of nature’s great light shows, up there with the Aurora Borealis. Maagpl. 5, 8005 Zürich. More info at clouds.ch/en/

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Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8001 Zürich. Admission: Adults CHF10, Children Free. Free admission to all with the Zurich Card. Closed Saturdays and Sundays. More info at beyer-ch.com/en

“...train travel is the best way to travel, and when you are aboard a train thundering through the Swiss countryside, it’s an absolute joy.”

WHERE TO STAY

ESSENTIAL • Pick up the Zurich Card from the Tourist Information office at Zurich Main Station. Tel. +41 44 2 15 40 00 / info@zuerich.com / zuerich.com/en The card offers the following benefits over a period of 24 / 72 hrs: • Unlimited 2nd class travel by tram, bus, train, boat and cableway in the city of Zurich and surrounding region • Short boat trips and Limmat river cruise • Free or reduced admission to 40 museums • 50% discount on the Zurich Old Town Walking Tour • And many more experiences

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All images © Zürich Tourism.

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DESTINATION EUROPE

FUN ON THE FARM WITH

COUNTRY KIDS RESORT Jo Gardner finds the holy grail of family holidays at Country Kids Resort, where the happiness of the children is central to the whole experience and where parents are encouraged to let their hair down too. This family friendly resort in Octon, France, provides the key ingredients to make 60% of the guests return time and time again for their family holidays.

WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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DESTINATION EUROPE As a single parent of a six-year-old, I’m prepared to pay over the odds for a kids’ club on holiday – time spent lazing by a pool (book in one hand; beer in the other) isn’t just wonderful, it’s priceless. Just one afternoon off and I’m a better parent/writer/daughter… person, even. But here’s le problème: kids’ clubs are often small rooms with nothing to do bar arts and crafts. The only way to get my daughter into one of these things is to bribe her with pool time and ice-cream; even then, she looks unhappy as I drop her off [insert guilt here]. And who can blame her; it’s her holiday too, isn’t it?

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Then I heard about Country Kids – a different kind of holiday where the happiness of children is central to the whole experience. Happy kids = happy parents. It’s a winning formula. Set on a farm in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France (equidistant from Beziers and Montpellier), the glorious views on the way up will distract you from the rapidly increasing metre (taxis are expensive in this area – hire a car if you can). We are warmly greeted by the owner, Sylvain, who runs Country Kids with his wife, Laure. Sylvain shows us around the former dairy farm, with its modern accommodation housed in historic buildings and all the French charm you could wish for (original stonework, wooden shutters, olive trees, beamed ceilings). It’s rustic, perfectly-sized and, most importantly, fenced off.

“Just let Lily-Jane explore, Jo; the whole place is safe,” he says. Within seconds, she’s off: up the wooden treehouse, around the playground, across the zip-wire and on the trampoline.

FEELING AT HOME Country Kids has five apartments in The Old Dairy house plus two separate buildings: The Farmhouse, with five bedrooms, and The Chesnut, with two. Ours – apartment 3 – is a two-storey, three bedroom spacious affair with everything you could wish for: humungous flat-screen, farmhouse oven, dishwasher and welcome basket. In the oversized bathroom there’s a round bath set into a piece of ancient stone and a separate walk-in shower with L’Occitane toiletries. Don’t bring bath toys for the kids – it’s all here.

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DESTINATION EUROPE The double room has a queen-size bed and antique furniture; the children’s room has twin beds, a bag of toys, stuffed animals on the bed and loads of children’s books. Upstairs is another twin room for older children. “We want you to feel like you’re at home here,” says Richard, the Assistant Manger later that day while I sip a cold beer in the shop-cum-bar-cumrestaurant. “Help yourself to fresh eggs, DVDs and soft drinks from the shop; each morning there will be warm, fresh pastries to buy, alongside fresh coffee which we can make for you to take to your apartment.” “The wine cellar next door is on an honesty system,” he continues as my eyes light up. “Just select a bottle and write it in the book. Most of the wines are local and we’ve got champagne, rosé, white and red to choose from.”

FARMYARD FUN We quickly get into a routine: fully rested after a peaceful night’s sleep, we pad down to the shop for warm croissants and coffee. Once dressed, Lily-Jane grabs the bio bucket from under the sink, pulls on her wellies and waits for Sylvain to ring the bell. Then we’re off – into a tractor to go and feed the animals on the farm. Parents have to accompany children for this part of the day but I’m more than happy to watch as children feed our leftover dinner to the goats, hay to the donkeys and feed to the rabbits. Before leaving we enter the chicken pen and grab warm eggs to take back with us. After, the children run down the hill to the kids’ club where loads of wellthought-out activities are planned – from picnics in the forest to visiting the resident tortoises. Parents can then choose what to do: head out for the day (yes, you can leave your kids and go off exploring); laze around by the heated pool, where lunch will be served to you on a comfy day bed (or help yourself to beers and ice creams from the fridge at the back – all on an honesty system); play tennis; head to the spa for a massage (my full body scrub and massage was expertly delivered); or drink endless cups of coffee in the bar.

LAZY, HAZY DAYS It’s February yet each day the mercury reaches a pleasant 24 degrees (the pool is 29 degrees). While taking a leisurely swim I marvel at the lush green mountains ahead.

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There’s also an adults-only plunge pool and bubbly Jacuzzi next to the tennis court, as well as a small gym should you feel guilty about those daily pastries. In the evenings we select pre-made meals from the shop to put in the oven (think lasagne, meatballs and chicken tagine). Portions at Country Kids are large and everything is fresh and tasty. After dinner we grab a movie from the extensive selection and head into the underground wine cellar to choose a bottle of wine. On Sunday there’s a welcome cassoulet lunch with wine; Wednesday nights is cheese toasty and cocktail night at the bar; on Fridays there’s a BBQ followed by a boules competition. When suggesting to Sylvain that I won’t be able to make cocktail night because of Lily-Jane, he looks at me as if I’m mad. “Plug the baby monitor in and come down!” he says. “That’s what it’s there for.” On Tuesdays and Thursdays, each family gets a free babysitter for three hours so that they can leave Country Kids and go for dinner. We wander down the hill to La Palombe, a modern restaurant in an ancient stone building serving seasonal, local cuisine. The sky is a burnt orange as we walk through the French countryside to the restaurant where a three-course a la carte meal costs just 39 euros each, and is Michelin-star quality. A starry sky guides us home.

VALUE-FOR-MONEY As you can imagine, Country Kids isn’t cheap but your children get a rare dose of outdoorsy, wholesome fun while you eat fantastic food, drink local wine and relax. Priceless. No wonder 60% of guests return time and time again.

HOW TO BOOK • Country Kids Resort - Le Mas Pandit, 34800 Octon, France country-kids.fr +33 6 77 54 56 00 HOW TO GET THERE • With Ryanair into Beziers - ryanair.com • With Easyjet into Montpellier - easyjet.com • On the Eurostar into Montpellier – eurostar.com

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DISCOVERING ROME

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With its incomparable history, Rome attracts visitors from all over the world, making it the third most visited city in Europe. People are enchanted by the city’s world renowned monuments and archaeological sites, coupled by the promise of authentic Italian cuisine. Gareth Davies discovers Rome, from its most visited sites to its quieter streets, as he scopes out how best to beat the crowds and where to get a good night’s rest in between busy days of sightseeing.

Trajan’s Market and the Imperial Fora. Image - Rabax63.

WORDS BY GARETH DAVIES

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DESTINATION EUROPE So many people know Rome, begun by the emperors, finished by the director Fellini, a masterpiece packed with almost three millennia of wonders, from some of the world’s finest art to the most exquisite espresso. So it is pointless to pretend that the city is not, at times and at the predictable places, extremely busy. We were there in the autumn. The crowds, many off cruise ships, were still relentless.

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his great, majestic city has always been able to deal with the throng. We discovered just how in the damp dusk of an October afternoon, as we approached the Pantheon. This is not the image of the 2000 year old building you would see in any tourist brochure, but it was powerfully magnificent. In the half light, milling under their umbrellas, the crowd in the square in front of it was scarcely visible. The immensity of the gaunt structure seemed to swallow them up. That’s the power of old Rome. We joined the queue and shuffled into that vast, empty space, as the rain fell gently through the perfect eight metre circle in the roof. The main sites are always busy, but you can win yourself space. One way is to seek out the quieter side streets, such as Via di Torre Argentina, with its small restaurants and fabulous clothes and designer shops. The other is to take an early breakfast, and slip into the big places before they fill.

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They were not so out of place. Bold images, big and small, are part of the culture of Rome. You find them in cinema: in the works of a succession of directors who paid homage to this city.

leled genius. But you could spend several fulfilling days simply following the incomparable concentrated glory of the lesser churches. Most are overlooked by the big tour groups and are rarely busy.

If a stray meteorite ever took out Rome they’d be able to rebuild it, from the big monuments down to the most intimate viale, from the many films shot there. Think Bicycle Thieves, via Fellinii’s La Dolce Vita, to many other homages to Rome, summoning up its unchanging essence, even down to the screaming Vespas and straggles of visiting nuns heading for St Peter’s. The Talented Mr Ripley would be an optional extra for the Spanish Steps. But the one film they would study most closely is Roman Holiday. The image of Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn on a scooter was everywhere.

It’s a thrill to see exceptional art in the place where it was created. Le Sibille by Raphael in the church of Santa Maria della Pace; Michelangelo’s statue of Moses in the Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli; and the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa, Bernini’s serene and passionate sculpture in white marble (Santa Maria della Vittoria), are just three of many masterpieces scattered liberally among Rome’s churches.

Shortly after 9am we were in the middle of the grandest square of all, Piazza del Popolo. We shared its extravagant expanse, cut by a string of three tremendous fountains, with a dozen people.

The works of the Renaissance hotheaded genius Caravaggio were the movie posters of his day. His subjects, based on lowlife models, are startlingly lit against dark shadow. We began our hunt for Caravaggio’s church paintings, in this very square, in Santa Maria del Popolo. The dramatic Conversion of St Paul (the apostle flat on his back, arms outstretched) is pure pre-movie magic.

Gigantic advertising posters adorned the sides of two less important buildings.

In Rome, visitors naturally visit The Sistine Chapel, for its work of unparal-

Just south of Piazza del Popolo, we found one of most Rome’s most elegant diversions, Via Margutta. This tranquil and exclusive side street is all high-end galleries, shops and little hotels way beyond most tourists’ wallets. Galleria Turchi is one of the few places where you can buy ancient Greek and Roman sculpture and busts. This is where Fellini and, in Roman Holiday, Joe Bradley (Gregory Peck) lived. Out of Via Margutta, we sat on the side of the outrageously ornate 17th-century Barcaccia Fountain, in the shape of a ship. Above us was a far better-known resting point, something that defies its original purpose by being far more sat upon than walked up (or down): The Spanish Steps.

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“...visitors naturally visit The Sistine Chapel, for its work of unparalleled genius. But you could spend several fulfilling days simply following the incomparable concentrated glory of the lesser churches.” People from many nations were taking their repose, but very few found their way into something incongruously, and poignantly, English right alongside: the last lodgings of the poet Keats (the Keats-Shelley House is a museum dedicated to the English Romantic poets). Italy has largely resisted the international coffee chains. We found a fine example of the traditional alternative, the casually splendid D’Angelo, a lovely pink building on Via Della Croce, close by the Spanish Steps, yet quite overlooked by the crowds. For the full experience, sit at the bar it’s cheaper anyway - and choose from a choice of sandwiches and cakes and pastries while watching career baristas at work.

tains a restoration of the Altar to Peace, the most precious monument from the age of the Emperor Augustus, recently rescued from years of neglect and pollution, is another shining new museum.

What distinguishes it from many other top hotels is the fine art collection (and original Rudolf Nureyev costumes). One definition of civilisation is afternoon tea in the lobby, under Tiepolo’s Ulysses discovering Achilles among the daughters of Lycomedes. We sallied forth into the city on the shuttle bus, and returned in the evening for luxury pampering in the spa, a dip in the choice of pools, or a stroll in the lush hotel gardens.

We ended our visit with some of ancient Rome’s most sublime frescoes, luscious scenes of nature and domestic life, in the refurbished Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, a C19th Neo-Renaissance palace close to the Baths of Diocletian.

On an earlier visit we stayed at the ultra-convenient Residence Palazzo al Velabro, just below the Forum and close to the Theatre of Marcellus. Passing it again, I was pleased to see it had been recently refurbished, its reception an inviting beacon on a damp night. We visited, as you must, the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain and Piazza Venezia, with its manic swirl of traffic in front of the operatic, marble Altare della Patria, (aka The Typewriter). We even braved the 64 bus to the Vatican. Canned sardines are less compacted. But was there anything new? (Not an easy question to answer in a city composed of so many levels of the eternal). Indeed there was. For one, an entire museum to the Emperor Trajan: the empire’s greatest general. The Mercati di Traiano and Museo dei Fori Imperiali is next to his namesake column. There’s a wonderful overview of this less visited corner of the Forum. The Museum of the Ara Pacis, which con-

And then, at the end, for that last meal before flying home (it’s worth taking the Leonardo Express, non-stop from Termine station to the airport) we called at Mercato Centrale Roma, part of the station, to the right as you face the tracks, with many food outlets. A dish of pasta is €15 with a glass of wine. It was the perfect end to our trip.

WHERE TO STAY IN ROME • Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Resort - Via Alberto Cadlolo, 101, 00136 | +39 06 35091 romecavalieri.com • Residence Palazzo Al Velabro - Via del Velabro, 16, 00186 | +39 06 679 2758 velabro.it

St. Peter’s Square in Vatican City. Image - Johann Kleindl.

There are many excellent independent cafes, restaurants and small hotels in chain-

free Rome, but our luxury bolthole was exceptional. We stayed at the the five-star Rome Cavalieri, high on Monte Mario just west of the Tiber, above the Vatican and overlooking the city.

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The Trevi Fountain. Image - Mario Roberto Durรกn Ortiz.

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The ceiling inside San Pietro in Vincoli. Image - Alberto Fernandez Fernandez

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DESTINATION EUROPE RELAXATION AND ADVENTURE IN

SARDINIA Sardinia is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea and is famous for its dreamy beaches and pristine blue waters. Katie Saunders spends a few days hotel hopping and relaxing in style on one of Europe’s best islands. Sardinia does offer more than powder white sand, as Katie finds out. Meeting the locals, visiting their houses and workplaces, and learning more about their livelihoods and crafts makes this Italian dream vacation even more authentic. WORDS BY KATIE SAUNDERS

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Image: Resort Valle dell’Erica.

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DESTINATION EUROPE

DAY 2

I leave my South West London home and head to Gatwick Airport. My easyJet flight is a quick two hours to Olbia Airport, in the north of Sardinia. I’m staying at Valle dell’Erica Thalasso & SPA Resort. The hotel has a 5* rating and it’s an hour’s drive from the airport.

I wake up after a great sleep and I’m ready for breakfast! I head over to the breakfast area, and I’m very satisfied with the choices. I build my plate up with fruit to start then a second plate of mushrooms, beans, sausages and hash browns. The sun is shining brightly this morning and I’m looking forward to getting some sun and relaxation time.

It’s one of the eight resorts on the island that is part of Delphina hotels & resorts. Set on the sea near Santa Teresa Gallura, it’s also a well known tourist destination in Gallura. As we drive along twisting and winding roads we pass beautiful scenery and views across the ocean. I’m welcomed by the hotel staff and treated to drinks and nibbles on arrival. We sit in the courtyard and admire views of the most beautiful sunset. Before dinner I go to my room to unpack and get ready, and I am very pleased with my accommodation. There is the most beautiful view of the sea from my bed and my balcony. Exploring further into the bathroom, I find I have twin basins and the largest luxury walk in shower I’ve ever seen. My group goes for dinner in one of the hotel’s seven on-site restaurants where we sit on a lovely outdoor terrace. If you love fresh sea food, like me, and enjoy great quality wine, a Mediterranean cuisine and cute desserts, then this is perfect for you!

The main trip today is on a motor boat to the archipelago of La Maddalena. I climb aboard and take a seat at the back so I can watch the wash and the wake behind the boat: it’s mesmerising. A little wine and some nibbles go down nicely onboard! We stop and drop the anchor at a gorgeous spot where I have never seen sea water so blue and so clear! We all jump in and explore the sea with flippers and snorkels and I become the little water baby that I am. There are other holiday makers and locals enjoying the beautiful day on their boats too. After our adventures in the sea we arrive via boat to Hotel Capo D’Orso Thalasso & SPA. Here we get seated for lunch at Il Paguro. The starters are beautiful and the food is fresh. We sip wine and take in the atmosphere, which is incredibly relaxing. We enjoy more time at their beach and pools and the spa centre, L’Incantu.

“...We stop and drop the anchor at a gorgeous spot where I have never seen sea water so blue and so clear!”

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Hotel Capo D’Orso Thalasso & SPA is a beautifully laid out resort with private coves, hammocks and spaces for couples to sunbathe together. Like Hotel Erica, they remind me of organised jungles; they capture the atmosphere and the feel of paradise quite effortlessly. Back at my hotel in the evening, I find myself sitting under the glowing moon. Spotting such beauty and truly magical views with the black sky and grey clouds surrounding it, I stop to take it all in for as long as I can before tiredness gets the better of me.

DAY 3 Waking up at Resort Valle dell’Erica, today we’re going to visit a sister hotel, Hotel Marinedda Thalasso & SPA. I’m excited because I’m having a spa treatment there and more time to relax today, but this time in the Thalasso pools (warm, salty water pools). Arriving at Hotel Marinedda Thalasso & SPA, I go for my spa treatment which is a hydromassage bath with flower salts where I relax for 20 minutes. The jets from the hydro bath massage my whole body, from legs to hips and from back to arms, and I’m in a very large treatment room so, for me, there is no worry of feeling claustrophobic. My therapist comes back to let me know that bath time has ended. Thoroughly enjoyable, and not over yet! I have a massage with Sardinian essential oils. I have to say it is one of the best massages I have ever had. A little time spent sunbathing by the pools and we are joined by a mantis! It sits behind us on its own sun lounger. I’ve seen them dance to music before once so I play some tunes from my phone. I’m not sure if it was received well but he/she doesn’t scurry away. Relaxed and hungry, we have lunch inside at Hotel Marinedda Thalasso & SPA. Compared to the others, this hotel is ideal for families to stay, with a large pool and a child friendly layout.

Images (clockwise from top left): Hotel Capo d’Orso, Hotel Marinedda Thalasso & SPA, Hotel Marinedda Thalasso & SPA, Resort Valle dell’Erica, Hotel Capo d’Orso, Hotel Capo d’Orso.

DAY 1

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DESTINATION EUROPE

Delphina can also organise bespoke trips for guests. I go on a hike and tour of Valle della Luna (Moon Valley) with views of amazing granite rock landscape, and we have time to sit and relax with our tour guide at his cabin. The cabin was built by our guide many years ago and, while there, we have the opportunity to try cheese and wine made by him too. Joined by his wife and their little Chihuahua puppy, we all have a great time. The good time continues over dinner back at Resort Valle dell’Erica and carries on through our cocktails at the downstairs bar whilst we are accompanied by live music from a pianist and a singer. None of us are in the dancing mood, but other guests enjoy dancing into the night.

DAY 4 I wake up to a windy day! We’ve been blessed with warm evenings and sunny days so far. The wind is picking up due to a storm coming in, but it won’t stop us! Dressed slightly warmer than previous days we drive to Capo Testa, the most energetic place on the island. We arrive and find huge stone buildings, views of moody clouds and our hair gets swept around our faces. If you’re quite petite, like me, there is a possibility of getting blown away in this wind! But it all adds to the fun and we can’t stop laughing as the wind shoves us (and our hair) around! Arriving back at the hotel the sun is pretty intermittent so I relax by the pool with a book. After a while I get a little restless and go to test out the

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hotel gym. It’s an outdoor gym, but sheltered, and has all the equipment one needs; weights, mats, treadmill, bike, mirrors... it is a lot of fun and I feel great exercising in a non-sweaty gym environment!

Siddura has an extraordinary looking building for a winery. Architecturally it’s modern, traditional and stunning all at once. The grounds are made up of vineyards and many trees: it seems never ending.

It’s our last dinner in Sardinia and I’m looking forward to more good food. This evening we visit one of the hotel’s other restaurants via cart (like a golf cart but with more seats). We get some special visitors before dinner when we are joined by some wild boar rustling around in the bushes. It’s a unique and different experience to witness these animals enjoying their home environment, seemingly unbothered by our presence.

The smell is divine and as we venture into the building we see many stages of the wine making process. We see the grapes stewing in large wooden barrels, and we see barrels of red and white wines going through the process of ageing. The wine is then bottled for six months before being tested to make sure they have reached the perfect taste.

DAY 5 Today is the day we travel home. I’m going to miss my luxurious shower and the relaxed nature of the island, but I won’t miss the windy roads as much! I didn’t even know it was possible for me to suffer with car sickness! Before we make our way to the airport, we have one last adventure: wine tasting!

It’s a fascinating and insightful wine makers visit. The wines are of great quality and I can’t leave without buying a bottle to take home with me. We enjoy our last meal at the hotel: a great way to finish the week together! This trip has been the most relaxing, fun and soothing experience I have had in a long time. As a destination the best of the weather starts mid May to the end of September, and I plan to return again!

• RESORT VALLE DELL’ERICA THALASSO & SPA Località Valle dell’Erica, 07028 Santa Teresa Gallura +39 0789 790018 | hotelvalledellerica.com/en/ Open from the 18th May – 29th September 2019, Rates start from £145 per person per night in a double room on a half board basis. • HOTEL CAPO D’ORSO THALASSO & SPA Località Cala Capra, 07020 Palau +39 0789 790340 | hotelcapodorso.com/en/ Open from the 18th May – 29th September 2019, Rates start from £164 per person per night in a double room on a half board basis. • HOTEL MARINEDDA THALASSO & SPA Località Isola Rossa, 07038 Trinità d’Agultu +39 0789 790340 | hotelmarinedda.com/sardinia/ Open from the 18th May – 29th September 2019, Rates start from £118 per person per night in a double room on a half board basis. • DELPHINA HOTELS & RESORTS delphinahotels.co.uk • SIDDURA WINERY - Località Siddura, 07020 Luogosanto +39 079 657 3027 | siddura.com/en/

Images (top to bottom): Hotel Marinedda Thalasso & SPA, Hotel Capo d’Orso.

We leave the hotel relaxed and well fed and visit the ancient stone village, Aggius, in the heart of Gallura, where the residents are some of the oldest living people in the world and are known for their healthy lifestyle. I am spoilt by picturesque views as I take a walk around the cobbled streets in the town. We take a brief stop to meet a local woman, who makes rugs for a living, and we take a look around her work place and shop.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

OKINAWA ISLANDS, JAPAN

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Far beyond the Japanese mainland lies the Okinawa prefecture, a scattering of idyllic tropical islands that, as Jo Gardner discovers, are as varied as they are beautiful.

Image: Kabira Bay - ©OCVB.

WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

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he only way to remember the sequence is to recite it quietly to myself: two through, push; change feet. One through, push; change feet. If only I could stop the man in front taking photos during this process, I might be in with a chance of getting the intricate criss-cross pattern right.

hours from Tokyo. With just 1.3 million inhabitants scattered among those sufficiently developed for tourism, the 876sq mile area has a certain Robinson Crusoe charm.

Not once during visions about my Japan trip did weaving enter my head - I’d pictured pretty beaches and tropical hikes, yes, but here I am on day one of a week’s trip attempting to excel at the region’s tradition of weaving textiles.

Millions of locals visit each year for the Bounty Bar beaches, the weather and the somewhat ‘odd’ people. Yes, while Okinawans are regarded as warm and fun-loving, they are considered somewhat eccentric by other Japanese. As I continue to work on my tapestry, staring longingly at the sunshine outside, I wonder if they might have a point.

I’m on Ishigaki Island in the Okinawa prefecture, a cluster of islands located between Japan and Taiwan just over two

Okinawa triumphs when it comes to coastlines though, ticking every box with creamy, sandy beaches, peppermint wa-

All images ©OCVB.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

ters and a good old fashioned dose of peace and quiet. It’s October and the daffodil yellow sun is high in the sky, making the sea glint and glisten. A few brightly painted boats bob about at the water’s edge, waiting for passengers to take them further into the blue. We wade through the warm water until it dances around our knees before boarding a charming wooden boat to glide through the shallows. The water displays a kaleidoscope of greens and blues as we increase speed, reaching our snorkelling spot in a matter of minutes, eager to spot manta rays. The area is blessed in other ways too: stable air conditions

Images top to bottom: Mamilla Hotel, Adom, The Eucalyptus, MachneYuda.

“Millions of locals visit each year for the Bounty Bar beaches, the weather and the somewhat ‘odd’ people.”

All images ©OCVB.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

and 40% clearer skies make the islands perfect for observing constellations invisible from mainland Japan. The short walk to Ishigaki’s observatory that evening is totally enchanting: fireflies light the trees like blinking fairy lights and the sky displays a different kind of tapestry - stars woven together into the night sky. Inside, a bearded man tells us we’ll see Jupiter. I try and hide my cynicism but one squint proves me wrong: Jupiter pulsates quickly into view, its iconic ring sitting like a protective arm around a pregnant stomach. A shooting star then flies across the ashen sky and I involuntarily well up.

TURBULENT PAST It’s not the first time a woman has shed a tear in Okinawa; its bloody past recorded in history. Japan’s resistance to the American invasion in WWII culminated in a battle of epic proportions. Code-named Operation Iceberg, the 82-day ferocious fight took place for three months, resulting in the loss of thousands of lives. A sobering memorial now sits in Okinawa Senseki Quasi-National Park in Naha, Okinawa’s capital. Despite this, Okinawans are some of the most magnanimous people I’ve encountered, letting strangers stay in their homes on a spontaneous (and free) whim – their welcome is as warm as a hot water bottle on a cold winter’s night. As our car pulls up to the family home that we’re privileged to be allowed into for the night, I’m enchanted by the dark wooden porch with a pretty bicycle leaning against it. Inside, the décor is simple yet seductive with paper partitions, matted floors and chunky old black telephones. The walls

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are adorned with old 45s of American blues singers; outside on the porch, candlelight flickers in the moonlight. The next morning, the owner guides us through Ishigaki’s network of cobbled streets and invites us into a modern-looking café for breakfast. Inside a lady cooks with a six-month-old baby strapped to her back. It’s a sobering reminder of how good we have it at home.

WILD CATS & THE WILD WEST The second largest island in the Okinawa prefecture, after Okinawa itself, is Iriomote, a popular spot with tourists keen to glimpse a sighting of the Iriomote cat, endemic to Iriomote Island. Sadly, with only 100 of these creatures in existence, visitors have about as much chance of stumbling across Johnny Depp. Luckily, Iriomote has another string to its bow: great swathes of dense jungle make it one of the few remaining wildernesses of Japan. Humidity creeps up to 90% as we glide through swampy mangroves to reach the starting point of our trek, walking between gnarly trees, spotting pretty butterflies and indigenous foliage. After three hours I’m tired and dirty, but happy. When asked if I’d like to join a local bathing ritual, I jump at

“...their welcome is as warm as a hot water bottle on a cold winter’s night. “

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

The notion of the Japanese not doing things by halves is again prevalent as we land at Yonaguni Island the next day, our third in under a week. Half the locals have come out to welcome us, banging drums, singing and dancing with an enthusiasm better fit for royalty. I’m embarrassed for the second time in two days, but at least I have my clothes on this time. The change in the weather is indicative of how much further west we are. “On a clear day you can see out to Taiwan,” says our guide pointing straight ahead. I stare at him quizzically - it’s raining. The topography is different, too: wild and rugged with moist, caramel sand and tufts of grass billowing in the wind. That night, doused in a layer of pungent mosquito spray and wielding a flashlight, we go searching for Atlas moths. As big as dinner plates, these tropical insects are prettier than their name suggests, their colourful wings resembling intricate maps. It’s my last night in Okinawa and, as I look at the Atlas moths, I wonder how many people will get their own atlas’ out and make their way here. These beautiful islands might be widely different and a little bit ‘out there’ but they are all a crucial part of Okinawa’s rich tapestry.

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ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW GETTING THERE Flights from London go via Taiwan or Tokyo with Japan Airways or British Airways jal.co.jp/en/ britishairways.com GETTING AROUND Hopping between islands is relatively easy with frequent ferries or domestic flights from Ishigaki airport with All Nippon Airways (ANA) or Japanese Airlines ana.co.jp jal.co.jp/en/ WHERE TO STAY With many different islands to stay on - and everything from camping to hotels and home stays to bed and breakfasts choose from - the best place for accommodation advice is the Okinawa Convention & Visitors Bureau ocvb.or.jp/foreign/en FAST FACTS Time difference: GMT +9 hours Currency: Japanese Yen

Image: © OCVB.

the chance – onsens (hot springs) have been part of Japanese culture for thousands of years. As soon as it starts, I wish I’d declined: sitting naked on a bucket in front of a mirror is a little bit too much ‘me’ before dinner. But the ladies take pride in washing their long, thick hair before filling a plastic bowl from the spring and pouring it all over their heads. I’m half temped to show them how the shower head works but think better of it.

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USA

VISIT THE USA’S PICK OF HOT NEW HOTELS FOR 2019

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USA

From luxurious off-grid retreats set among Arizona’s healing thermal water springs, to vintage-style beachside hotels in Miami, the USA will see a huge range of new hotel openings in 2019. Whether visitors are looking for a Western-style adventure in Utah, a hotel in the centre of NOLA’s pulsing nightlife or a relaxing beach break on the pristine shores of the Florida Keys, this is Visit The USA’s run-through of the most exciting new openings in 2019.

Image: High West Distillery at Blue Sky.

WORDS BY ALEX HOLMAN

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USA THE HOXTON, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS

PALIHOUSE MIAMI BEACH, MIAMI, FLORIDA

Following a series of new openings in the USA in 2018, the London-born Hoxton Hotel group is set to debut in Chicago, Illinois, in spring 2019. The hotly anticipated hotel will be located in the trendy, formerly industrial West Loop area, on a site formerly occupied by a warehouse. The hotel’s 175 guestrooms will feature The Hoxton’s signature, spacious-yet-cosy design, while a rooftop terrace and pool are in the works. An eatery and bar run by Chicago’s Boka Restaurant Group will provide a cool and relaxed breakfast, lunch and dinner spot.

Opening in spring 2019 is the Palihouse Miami Beach, one of Florida’s most stylish new hotels. Located on the Indian Creek water in a restored Art Deco building dating back to 1940, the Palihouse is just a short stroll from the pristine sands of Miami Beach. The 71 guestrooms will come with vintage-styled kitchenettes, while coral walls and muted paisley print rugs will blend classic and contemporary styles. Guests will have access to the pool, exclusive beach club, and waterway boat dock.

thehoxton.com

TIMES SQUARE EDITION, NEW YORK CITY, NEW YORK

LIMELIGHT HOTEL SNOWMASS, ASPEN, COLORADO

Guests looking for Times Square views and one of the city’s most glamorous new hangouts will love the new Times Square EDITION, opening spring 2019. The 452-guestroom hotel will be located on the corner of 47th Street, and is set to feature a sophisticated signature restaurant leading out to a buzzing 5,800 square foot lantern-lit drinks garden with yet more Times Square views. A state-of-the-art fitness centre and opulent lobby lounge add to the luxury experience.

Aspen’s newest hotel opening, the Limelight Hotel Snowmass, is set to be a fresh, fun and relaxed ski-in ski-out hotel located on the doorstep of Snowmass Mountain’s Elk Camp Gondola. Launching in January 2019 with 99 rooms featuring soft grey and white colour palettes and plenty of mountain views, the family-friendly hotel will also be home to a vibrant bar, where guests can enjoy live music and a fun après ski scene, along with a casual restaurant with a menu of American classics.

editionhotels.com

limelighthotels.com

ISLA BELLA BEACH RESORT, FLORIDA KEYS, FLORIDA

LIVE! BY LOEWS ARLINGTON TEXAS, ARLINGTON, TEXAS

Opening in early 2019 on the sun-drenched shores of the Florida Keys is the Isla Bella Beach Resort, a contemporary 199-guest room set in a lush 24-acre resort in Marathon. The pristine grounds will feature five pools, multiple restaurants serving everything from crispy Neapolitan pizza to just-caught seafood, a gym and 200-ft private sandy beach. Ocean views from every bedroom, plus spacious balconies, will allow guests to soak up the Keys’ famous sunrises and sunsets, while crisp white linen, vibrant turquoise cushions, curtains and statement lamps will create a contemporary yet relaxed place to rest.

The first of its kind in the U.S., the new Live by Loews – Arlington Texas, opening in 2019, will offer guests an experience that blends luxurious accommodation, sports and entertainment. Located on the doorstep of the Texas Rangers’ Globe Life Park and the Dallas Cowboys’ AT&T Stadium, the hotel will feature 301 guestrooms and suites with floorto-ceiling windows and contemporary furnishings, plus a signature restaurant, a working brewery in the hotel, a pool bar and coffee bar. Guests will be able to reach the vibrant cities of Fort Worth and Dallas in 20 minutes by car.

islabellabeachresort.com

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loewshotels.com

HOTEL SERRA, SAN LUIS OBISPO, CALIFORNIA

HARD ROCK NEW ORLEANS, NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA

Located on California’s Central Coast, halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, the mission town of San Luis Obispo – also known as SloCal – was once home to the world’s first motel, the Milestone Mo-Tel. In early 2019, however, the Californian coastal city will unveil Hotel Serra, a casual and elegant 65-guestroom that will blend a 19th-century design aesthetic with modern touches. It will be home to the city’s first spa hotel, along with a pool deck and edible garden, and have a prime location – just blocks away from the famous Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa founded by Father Junípero Serra in 1772.

Opening in spring 2019 in New Orleans’ famous French Quarter is the 350-guest room Hard Rock New Orleans. With almost every guestroom offering a balcony with unforgettable city views, the hotel is set to be one of the most popular places to soak up the sights, and of course the sounds, of NOLA. Walls throughout the hotel will be adorned with memorabilia that will pay homage to the city’s rich musical history, while an elegant restaurant will serve Louisiana seafood classics. As well as being a hot new hotel, it’s the perfect place for visitors to try the famous alcohol-infused ice from Pitard’s Adult Snowballs.

hotelserra.com

hardrockhotels.com

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Image: Palihouse Miami Beach.

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USA THE LODGE AT BLUE SKY, PARK CITY, UTAH

ANDAZ PALM SPRINGS, PALM SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA

Made up of 46 rooms and suites, the Lodge at Blue Sky, opening in May 2019, is set to be one of Utah’s most exciting new accommodation offerings – with the benefit of being located just minutes from the buzz of Park City. On the 3,500-acre luxury ranch guests will experience a modern interpretation of a Western adventure, making the most of the Lodge at Blue Sky’s wild range of customised outdoor adventures – including horseback riding and fly fishing – along with meditation, treatments and yoga in the Auberge Spa. Whether guests are visiting in the summer or winter, it’ll be hard to forget the views.

Set to open in early 2019 in the heart of downtown Palm Springs and on the doorstep of the vibrant uptown design district is the new Andaz Palm Springs. The 150-room hotel will be built as a collection of light-flooded low-rise buildings and bungalows, with two outdoor pools, a spa, brilliant restaurants serving creative and sustainable cuisine and panoramic views of the San Jacinto Mountains. hyatt.com

bluesky.aubergeresorts.com

BISHOP’S LODGE, SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO

SHINOLA HOTEL, DETROIT, MICHIGAN

Located on 317 acres of land in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo range of the Rocky Mountains is Bishop’s Lodge, a historic 1920s ranch resort that has been reimagined and redesigned by Auberge Resorts. The lodge, which is opening in early 2019, features a series of low-rise buildings which blend into the rust-red landscape, while accommodation features rustic wooden floors and shutters, statement headboards and lamps, plus vibrant eclectic prints. Trail rides from Bishop Lodge’s very own stables will be available into the foothills or the Santa Fe National Forest.

The Shinola Hotel, the first hotel from the legendary Detroit-based watch manufacturers, Shinola, is set to open in early 2019. Designer Christine Gachot is behind the hotel’s cosy-yet-modern spaces, which include a light-flooded conservatory filled with plants, living spaces dotted with vintage furniture, high ceilings and multiple dining and drinks spaces. The hotel will occupy several neighbouring repurposed buildings, with a few of the spaces inside all-new structures. Details are few and far between – this is one of the US’s most secretive and hotly anticipated new openings.

bishopslodge.com

shinola.co.uk

VIRGIN HOTELS NASHVILLE, NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

HOTEL BENNETT, CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA

Virgin Hotels Nashville is set to be just one of the hot new hotels set to open in the city next year. Located on Music Row, the vibrant and contemporary 240-guestroom hotel will bring a whole new level of cool to Music City, with a rooftop pool, host of bars and the brand’s flagship space, the Commons Club, where locals and visitors are encouraged to work, drink, eat and party together.

Opening in January 2019 and just in time for British Airways’ new London to Charleston flight route is the glamorous Hotel Bennett. The elegant 179-guestroom hotel will overlook the city’s iconic Marion Square, while the restaurant will have views across the park. A heated pool will be located on the hotel’s rooftop, along with a peaceful bar that will become the best sundowner spot in town. Meanwhile the spa will offer treatments inspired by the hotel’s maritime surroundings, plus rooftop yoga.

virginhotels.com

hotelbennett.com

CASTLE HOT SPRINGS RESORT, ARIZONA Guests will travel along a palm tree-lined driveway to reach the luxurious Castle Hot Springs, which is due to open in January 2019. Located in the southern foothills of the Bradshaw Mountains, approximately 50 miles north of Phoenix, the 32 cottages and cabins of the resort are set in a region that’s been a medicinal healing group for Yavapai and Tonto Apache Indians for centuries. Throughout the 1800s and 1900s Castle Hot Springs was a retreat for affluent families – even John F Kennedy spent three months there in 1945. While the reimagined resort isn’t an exact replica, it will be a classically luxurious retreat, with three swimming pools filled by the hot springs, and organic garden and a brewery housed in a barn.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ON INSPIRING HOLIDAYS IN THE UNITED STATES, VISIT: WEBSITE: VISITTHEUSA.CO.UK FACEBOOK: FACEBOOK.COM/VISITTHEUSA TWITTER: TWITTER.COM/VISITTHEUSAUK INSTAGRAM: INSTAGRAM.COM/VISITTHEUSA

castlehotsprings.com

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Images (top to bottom): The Hoxton (Chicago), Earth Suite Patio at Blue Sky.

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DREAMY DORSET’S EXCLUSIVE HIDEAWAY

Nestled above an idyllic rocky cove on the Dorset coast, a few miles east of Weymouth, you’ll find one of the most exclusive lodge parks in the UK. Osmington Holiday Park offers luxurious accommodation amidst a quiet countryside setting – the ultimate self catering getaway where time definitely takes the chill pill. WORDS BY PAUL WILLIAMS

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In early 2018, no names mentioned, I stayed in probably the most charmless lodge park known to man – an experience that unfortunately brings out the sceptic in me when the opportunity arises to visit similar. Fast forward to early summer and I’m en-route, partner in tow, to Osmington Holiday Park in the coastal hamlet of Osmington Mills, Dorset, an enclave billed as ‘the perfect rural retreat’.

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fter a two and a half hour drive from Viestra HQ in West London, we turn off the main coastal road to Weymouth and make our way down to Osmington Mills. Off the beaten track but easily accessible, the road leads to a cliff top car park that overlooks the famous Smuggler’s Haunt pub, and a few hundred yards before that you’ll find the entrance to Osmington Holiday Park – you can’t miss it. With check in at around 3pm, arriving at 10am could have posed a dilemma, but this isn’t a problem as our accommodation was vacated the day before (NB- if you decide to arrive early, enquire first if OK – we just got lucky!). Warmly welcomed by the wonderful Terri, who gives a brief overview of the park, facilities and local amenities, we are given the key to Lodge 5, Cedar Falls. Making our way through the elegantly maintained grounds, it’s obvious that my initial scepticism is unwarranted. Lush green landscaped gardens surround magnificent, mounted lodges that ooze class, superior build quality and have an air of Scandinavian design. Our home for a couple of days is simply stunning. With its own driveway, which will easily provide parking for large SUVs, 5 Cedar Falls is one of the newest lodges introduced to the park, although the majority in this section are at most only 5 years old. Swish interior, 3 bedrooms (one en-suite), state of the art kitchen, and an open plan lounge diner are all decorated and furnished to 5 star standard – this is more than home from home - it’s a testament to tranquillity and thoughtless luxury. The master bedroom and lounge areas have wall to wall bi-folding doors that open up to offer that extra outdoor space, complete with a step in hot tub.

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The park is split into 5 areas, with one offering lodges with sea views over Weymouth Bay and the Jurassic Coast, two of the UK’s most scenic natural wonders and with that in mind, there is no doubt about it – Osmington Holiday Park is a bit spesh.... Feet up and crashed out on the enormous beyond comfortable sofa, we enjoy the superb in-lodge entertainment system with tunes at your fingertips via the remote music system, we’d be fine if the weather were to keep us in doors – but it didn’t, so time to explore... Being situated close to a number of Dorset’s most premier attractions and destinations, the park makes for a perfect base for those wanting to explore the area. Heading into Weymouth, I cannot help but marvel at this seaside town with its sandy beach and shallow shoreline allowing for safe bathing in the natural harbour, a favourite of George III and Weymouth’s connection with the Regent is still celebrated today. The beautiful white pebble beach at Lulworth Cove, with its blue waters and easy access make it a popular destination – when we popped by it was pretty busy, so in high season I advise getting there early to stake your claim to a piece of beach – what a place! Just round the corner is Durdle Door, which is probably up there as the most famous coastal stone arch in the world. By following the natural cliff path down to Durdle Door beach, the arch is a must-see for any trip to this region and being based at Osmington, we had no excuse. After gallivanting about the local vicinity, it’s a great option

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“...situated close to a number of Dorset’s most premier attractions and destinations, the park makes for a perfect base for those wanting to explore the area.” to use the Osmington Holiday Park on site Country Club. After enjoying a wonderfully traditional Dorset afternoon tea, we made use of the heated swimming pool to the rear of the Country Club, a great way to unwind and soak up the peaceful tree lined setting. The Country Club, being central, is a gentle stroll from all the lodges and has a fully licensed bar, comprehensive menu catering for all tastes and diets, and a quaint ‘reading room’ for those wanting a quiet time whilst enjoying a sun downer – a pleasant, welcoming atmosphere with attentive, friendly and witty staff. Love it! One thing worth noting is that as an Owner at Osmington, you have access to Waterside’s other two parks in Weymouth – Chesil Beach and Waterside – offering on site entertainment, great for kids, and have easy access to the sea front. Oh, and you have to check out the Safari lodges, a unique addition to the Waterside portfolio. Osmington Holiday Park is without doubt the best I have visited in the UK – and I’ve been to a lot. It’s an exclusive enclave of superior class lodges that cater for a more discerning visitor seeking a getaway of uninterrupted down time. In a nutshell, visit – you will lose sleep if you don’t. This is a Viestra Platinum Destination.

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OSMINGTON HOLIDAY PARK Osmington Mills, Weymouth, Dorset, DT3 6HB Telephone: 01305 837010 Web: www.watersideholidaygroup.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/osmingtonholidays Twitter: www.twitter.com/OsmingtonHols • Situated in the peaceful hamlet of Osmington Mills, this park is part of the Waterside Holiday Group and nestles in a wooded valley that drops down to Osmington beach. With direct access to the South West Coastal Path, the Osmington Holiday Park has 68 wooden lodges and facilities include a country club with bar and restaurant and an outdoor heated swimming pool. • Although all lodges are self-catering, The Country Club offers a varied menu from light snacks to evening meals, and new for 2018 is the option of afternoon tea. • Dog friendly holiday accommodation available at Osmington Holiday Park • Park is open to holiday guests from 16 March to 2 November 2018. • Long weekend breaks (Friday – Monday) at Osmington Holiday Park start from £271 in a lodge sleeping two adults.

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20 SPAS AN HOUR FROM LONDON According to the latest figures, spa goers in London spend up to £18 million on spa treatments per year. Jo Gardner rounds up 20 spas within an hour from the capital, according to county.

Image: Ockenden Manor.

WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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BEDFORDSHIRE Aqua Sana Spa Bedfordshire +44 344 826 6205 | aquasana.co.uk The modern glass and timber building in this Center Parcs village has six differently-themed spa areas, each taking you on a different sensory journey. Swim from the indoor spa pool to the warm outdoor hydrotherapy pool and soak up the surrounding forest in this stylish spa.

Champneys Henlow +44 843 316 2222 | champneys.com This spa is set in an exquisitely restored Georgian manor surrounded by 150 acres of parkland next to a flowing river – take the snowdrop walk and keep an eye out for deer. There is a huge range of fitness classes, Elemis and Clarins treatments and a bright pool area too. After a treatment, relax in the pretty garden conservatory.

Luton Hoo Hotel, Golf & Spa +44 1582 734437 | lutonhoo.co.uk This grand mansion, set in 1,000 acres of gardens, ranges and parkland, is the perfect country escape - its serene spa is set in what used to be the gardener’s cottage. The spa really embraces the outdoors, with a rooftop garden and an 18-metre vitality pool with country views.

Y Spa at The Waterfront Hotel +44 333 700 7667 | www.thewaterfronthotel.co.uk Entering the 350-acre estate with its wide green open space and large glittering lake feels like a breath of fresh air. The hotel and spa are sleek and modern – the piѐce de résistance is the outdoor hydrotherapy pool set in a red brick courtyard. Sip a glass of prosecco and gaze at the flickering fairy lights in the trees.

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Images (top & bottom): Ockenden Manor.

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DESTINATION UK BERKSHIRE

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

The Cliveden Spa +44 1628 668561 | clivedenhouse.co.uk

Stoke Park Spa +44 1753 717171 | stokepark.com

A spa with a bit of history – the beautiful outdoor heated pool at Cliveden is where Minister John Profumo first glimpsed Christine Keeler in 1961, and is now listed. Enjoy treatments by Oskia and Sarah Chapman before wandering the gardens. You can book private yoga, Thai Chi or tennis sessions too.

This striking Palladian mansion is billed as a traditional country club, with tennis courts, golf courses and a huge gym. Head out from the main swimming pool, with its dramatic arched windows, down a winding path to find a sauna cabin and hydrotherapy pool overlooking the grounds.

Donnington Valley Hotel & Spa +44 1635 551199 | donningtonvalley.co.uk

HERTFORDSHIRE

It’s not just golfers that will delight in this modern, bright spa; Donnington is set in a stunning landscape of rolling parklands, so beautifully kept and green it is almost hyper-real. The treatments are the perfect way to unwind and give your urban skin a treat.

The Vineyard Spa +44 1635 528770 | the-vineyard.co.uk Feeling rakish? Head to this eighteenth-century hunting lodge with its walk-though wine cellar holding over 30,000 bottles and 3AA Restaurant. The spa is small and exclusive with a central pool that has its own swimming current; there’s also a raised Jacuzzi to wallow in and admire the views.

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Champneys Tring +44 1442 291000 | champneys.com This flagship Champneys spa is set in a glamorous stately home with so much on offer you’ll need a map, a timetable and a helpful member of staff to experience everything. Bubble away in the outdoor hot-tub then curl up in a cosy cocoon chair hanging from a tree.

Sequoia Spa at The Grove +44 1923 807807 | thegrove.co.uk It’s hard to believe this stunning countryside estate is within the M25. The spa is stylish – think black-tiled swimming

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DESTINATION UK pool and designer hydro-pool – and there are luxurious Natura Bissé treatments on offer. There are plenty of countryside eccentricities to make you feel like you’ve travelled far away too.

Nutfield Priory Hotel & Spa +44 1737 824400 handpickedhotels.co.uk

The Spa at Sopwell House +44 1727 864477 | sopwellhouse.co.uk

Set in the grounds of the grand Victorian Nutfield Priory, this spa has a 14-metre pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam room. Sunny day? Head through the French doors and lie on a lounger in the pretty spa garden. Those staying for dinner can enjoy dinner in the 2 AA rosette restaurant.

KENT Brandshatch Place Hotel & Spa +44 845 072 7395 handpickedhotels.co.uk Combine a day out at Brands Hatch Race Course with a relaxing spa at this elegant red brick Georgian Mansion, a Handpicked Hotel and Spa. Enjoy an Elemis treatment, then head to the pool and thermal area with its steam room, Jacuzzi and 13-metre pool with stylish blue tiles.

Eastwell Manor, a Champneys Spa Hotel +44 1233 213000 | champneys.com This Champneys Spa Hotel is a Neo-Elizabethan manor set in acres of verdant parkland. The spa is in the Pavilion and offers a 20-metre indoor pool, sauna, steam room, hydrotherapy pool, outdoor pool and hot tub. Feeling active? Try tennis, croquet or falconry in the expansive gardens.

Utopia Spa at Rowhill Grange Hotel +44 1322 615136 | alexanderhotels.co.uk It’s hard to believe this perfect English country manor house is in Dartford: it looks like something out of Agatha Christie, set in acres of rolling lawns (perfect for croquet) and delightfully landscaped gardens. The spa is a Romanesque grotto with a therapeutic pool, swimming pool and heat facilities.

SURREY Foxhills Country Club & Resort +44 1932 872050 | foxhills.co.uk Set in 400 acres of leafy Surrey countryside, you’ll find this ivy-clad Victorian manor with a charming spa. The highlight is the spa garden surrounded by walls and tall trees. It has a small, natural pool to shock your circulation into life after heating up in the wooden outdoor sauna.

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Pennyhill Park Hotel & Spa +44 1276 471774 | exclusive.co.uk Drive past the England Rugby training ground to reach this five-star hotel and its jaw-droppingly huge spa, set in 123 acres. The first thing you’ll see is the glamorous blue outdoor swimming pool, with its various hydro-pools. The indoor pool has underwater music; the food and customer service are exceptional.

The Runnymede on Thames Hotel & Spa +44 1784 220600 | runnymedehotel.com Swimmers will love this bright contemporary spa on the banks of the River Thames, with its 18-metre indoor pool and whirlpool. There’s also a large outdoor pool and hot tub with river views. Cleanse your urban pores in the huge eucalyptus-infused steam room or luxuriate with a Guinot treatment.

SUSSEX Ockenden Manor Hotel & Spa +44 1444 416111 | hshotels.co.uk If you appreciate contemporary design but also traditional English country eccentricities, you’ll love this dramatic cubist spa set in a beautiful historic walled garden. Step into a glass cube with different pools jutting out into the surrounding pastoral landscape. Enjoy an Elemental Herbology treatment or try the floatation pod.

Utopia Spa at Alexander House Hotel +44 1342 714914 | alexanderhotels.com Set in 120 acres of gardens, woodland and Sussex parkland, this Grecian-inspired spa has a deep-blue swimming pool and an outdoor hot tub. For a real treat, step outside into the Zen garden, with its Jacuzzi and barrel sauna. Afterwards, snuggle down in the relaxation room and admire the countryside views.

Image: Utopia Spa at Alexander House.

A whitewashed Georgian manor turned stylish country retreat, this petite spa offers ESPA and Clarins treatments. The swimming pool and thermal area opens onto a delightful garden. If you can, stay in one of the mews cottages with their private, award-winning spa gardens and private outdoor hot tubs.

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3 TO VISIT:

GREAT HOTELS IN DEVON NOT TO BE MISSED Devon ticks all the boxes – beautiful coastlines, rolling countryside and idyllic villages. Just 2-3 hours from London by car, we take a look at a few top options you may want to consider when planning a trip to one of the UK’s most stunning counties.

Image: Laura Ashley The Tea Room at Highbullen Hotel.

WORDS BY PAUL WILLIAMS

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ILSINGTON COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL Ilsington Village, Newton Abbot TQ13 9RR +44 1364 661452 | www.ilsington.co.uk This delightful family run hotel is perfectly located for those looking for a quiet stay. Set in the hamlet of Ilsington, just below the dramatic and beautiful Dartmoor National Park, the hotel provides a superb base for the curious traveller with the coastal towns of Salcombe, Dartmouth and the delightful village of Dittisham all within easy access. It also provides excellent spa and pool facilities, offering guests the chance to indulge in quiet pampering and luxurious treatments. Enjoy quaint strolls along winding lanes or, for the little more adventurous, take a walk up to Haytor where you can enjoy stunning views across the countryside towards the coast. The hotel offers a fantastic menu with fine dining and bar meal options available, and has two AA rosettes for food to its name. Owned and run by the Hassell family since 1998, The Ilsington Country House maintains its original character; beautiful lounges, panoramic views and wonderful gardens make this hotel a perfect setting for a quiet and peaceful stay.

HIGHBULLEN HOTEL Chittlehamholt, Umberleigh EX37 9HD +44 1769 540561 | www.highbullen.co.uk Set in stunning grounds in Chittlehamholt near South Molten, this 4 star luxury country house has enjoyed recent renovation and development. Dartmoor and Exmoor are all within easy reach with the historic fishing village of Clovelly on the North Devon Atlantic coast not too far away. With full spa facilities, gym, golf club, indoor and outdoor pools, the Highbullen offers guests an array of activities in its luxurious surrounds. The bedrooms are of an exceptionally high standard and left to your own devices, the Victorian day rooms will inspire you to read like a librarian or while away the time enjoying views over the terrace and across the valley. The dining room has a spectacular vista over beautiful lawns, is spacious with a quiet ambience and has absolutely superb food on offer. Private dining is available, perfect for special occasions, and The Cellar bar is a great place for a sun downer before dinner. Like a lot of hotels hidden away in the Devon countryside, there are plenty of walks to enjoy in the vicinity. One notable stop, if you do go for a walk, is the Church of John The Baptist and the village pub, The Exeter Inn. A fantastic hotel in a wonderful setting, staying at The Highbullen is worth paying that little extra for.

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ORESTONE MANOR Rock House Ln, Maidencombe, Torquay TQ1 4SX +44 1803 897511 www.orestonemanor.com A former Georgian Manor House, this boutique hotel offers award winning cuisine in a rural setting, with luxurious amenities and bespoke bedrooms. Located in Maidencombe, just outside Torquay, the hotel has a rich history and offers the visitor both coastal and rural attractions. Its elegant public rooms have fascinating art and ornamental design, so be sure to keep your eye open for one or two antique oddities. The bedrooms offer sumptuous decor, from designer William Morris to Raj inspired themes that make every room unique, with modern facilities and bathrooms. A wonderful terrace overlooks the manor’s gardens, with views over Lyme Bay which, on a glorious summer’s evening, is truly breathtaking. Not too far from south Devon’s famous ‘red’ beaches, there is plenty to do locally. Visit Kents Cavern and take a step back to Stone Age Britain, or wander down the hill (it is a little steep!) to Maidencombe Beach with The Thatched Tavern pub making for a well earned stop off. Orestone Manor is owned and run on a day to day basis by two chefs, Neil and Catherine D’Allen, so you can expect the best in fine dining with twists on British fayre using locally sourced food. Orestone Manor provides a relaxed, friendly atmosphere in a carefully curated and interesting style, something a few of its nearby neighbours should probably take note of.A fantastic hotel in a wonderful setting, staying at The Highbullen is worth paying that little extra for.

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Images (clockwise from top left): Orestone Manor, Orestone Manor, Devon View Restaurant at Highbullen Hotel, Orestone Manor.

“The bedrooms offer sumptuous decor, from designer William Morris to Raj inspired themes that make every room unique...”

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LUXURY TRAVEL

LUXURY HEN WEEKEND IN

BARCELONA STAY, PARTY AND RELAX WITH DHC Hen parties are one of the most special and exciting events for any bride-to-be and the city of Barcelona offers incredible and unique experiences, from VIP night-outs, exclusive shopping to Michelin star cuisine or relaxing beach activities. Derby Hotels Collection can complement your trip with luxurious accommodation choices, pre-party gatherings and after party treatments. WORDS BY ALEX HOLMAN

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LUXURY TRAVEL Barcelona is a fantastic destination for discerning brides who want a little more from their hen party. The bride-to-be and her friends can create special memories on a luxury break that they will remember long after the final flurry of confetti has landed. Hotel & Spa Claris 5* GL

Mr Kao

The Claris 5* Grand Luxe Hotel & Spa is housed in the former Palau Vedruna (Vedruna Palace), a 19th-century neoclassical building located in one of the most fashionable areas of Barcelona city centre - just metres from the prestigious shopping avenue, Passeig de Gràcia.

Mr Kao, on the ground floor of Hotel & Spa Claris 5* GL, is the first Dim Sum Club in Barcelona. It offers classic recipes of Chinese cuisine which are are combined with Mediterranean ingredients and the use of local products. Additionally, the bar at Mr Kao offers a selected choice of Japanese whisky, sake & Asian cocktails.

This hotel will call out to art lovers, with pieces of pre-Columbian art on display around the communal areas of the hotel and also in each guestroom. You are also able to view a selection of 200 objects from the Chimú, Nayarit, Tairona, Quimbaya, Veracruz and Jalisco cultures at the private museum within the hotel. Boasting comfort and high-quality service, Hotel & Spa Claris 5* GL enjoys the best location for discovering Barcelona and taking advantage of all the tourist and leisure activities the city has to offer. Hotel & Spa Claris 5* GL offers two in-house dining options: La Terraza del Claris and Mr. Kao, where you can indulge in high quality food close to ‘home’.

La Terraza del Claris Up on the rooftop of Hotel & Spa Claris 5* GL, located next to the gorgeous outdoor swimming pool, you will find La Terraza del Claris. Due to being glass-enclosed, this restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy summer or winter nights while enjoying spectacular views of central Barcelona. The restaurant floor is covered in cosy, stylish rugs and there are large green plants dotted around the room, with a whole statement wall covered in ivies and monsteras, giving the illusion that you’re dining outside surrounded by nature. A new menu has been put together by Michelin star chef, Aurelio Morales, featuring Mediterranean-inspired cuisine and high quality home grown products with a variety of a set menu and a la carte options. La Terraza del Claris is open all year round, with live music events during the summer months.

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You can enjoy the food in-house at Mr Kao or, if you feel like enjoying the comfort of your hotel room, you can order the food to be brought to your room.

Mayan Secret Spa On the main floor of Hotel & Spa Claris 5* GL you can venture into the Mayan Secret Spa - awarded at The World Luxury Spa Awards as Best Emerging Luxury Spa in the World in 2017 and Best Luxury Historical Hotel Spa in the World in 2018. Working with the exclusive French cosmetic brand, CARITA, it is a space equipped with the most modern technology for facial, health, relaxation and beauty treatments. The area has a handcrafted pre-Hispanic sauna where volcanic stones are heated and water with aromatic medicinal herbs is poured onto them, releasing steam. Furthermore, choosing from the massages, rituals and packages will give you free access to the Temazcal Sauna and the sensations shower with chromotherapy to round off your enjoyment of your spa experience.

“...Hotel & Spa Claris 5* GL enjoys the best location for discovering Barcelona...”

NEIGHBOURHOOD

Eixample Eixample, literally translated as “extension”, is a high-class residential and shopping area, and is also home to many of Barcelona’s art nouveau architectural masterpieces. It is the most diverse neighbourhood in Barcelona in terms of shopping, restaurants and nightlife. There are many interesting art galleries and museums in the area too for that cultural hit. The heart of Eixample is Passeig de Gràcia, which works as a line separating the area into two: Eixample Esquerra (left) and Eixample Dreta (right). The right side of Eixample is the older side and houses impressive architecture – here you can see Casa Milà (nicknamed La Pedrera) and Casa Batlló: two of Gaudí’s world famous designs. Casa Batlló is part of the Illa de la Discòrdia (block of discord), so-named because it features buildings in sharply contrasting styles. The other famous buildings in this block are Casa Lleó Morera, one of the most flamboyant modernista buildings in Barcelona designed by Domènech i Montaner, and Casa Ametller, designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch in the Modernisme style. Passeig de Gràcia, Plaça Catalunya and Diagonal Avenue have the most exclusive stores, including most of Barcelona’s international designer shops such as Chanel and Hermès where you can shop to your heart’s content. Eixample is a safe and residential part of the city and there is also a thriving café culture and a vibrant nightlife here, where you can find some of the best restaurants and bars in town, making the area a pleasant place to spend an evening. Eixample is a beautiful barrio to wander round, people-watch from one of the many cafes and take in the glorious architecture. The area is central and most other parts of the city are within walking distance.

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LUXURY TRAVEL

• STAY AT HOTEL & SPA CLARIS 5*GL - hotelclaris.com Each room is decorated with one-of-a-kind art pieces that create unique spaces that combine luxury and comfort with amenities from The White Company and Egyptian cotton bed linen. *From £205pp including a welcome drink at the hotel’s bar, a complimentary bottle of wine and a free ticket to the Egyptian Museum, plus £22 voucher to be spent in Mayan Secret Spa. • MR KAO - misterkao.com Unique dining concept that blends the best of Chinese and Mediterranean cuisine, thanks to the cooperation between Derby Hotels and Kao family. • PRE-PARTY AT LA TERRAZA DEL CLARIS Located on the rooftop floor of Hotel & Spa Claris 5*GL, which also houses the hotel pool, La Terraza del Claris offers spectacular views of the Mediterranean sunsets. Here you will taste tapas and exclusive signature cocktails while pre-partying and enjoying the evening live DJ sessions. • RELAX AT MAYAN SECRET SPA - mayanspas.com A good after party is always better in a spa. Honoured by The World Luxury Spa Awards as the Best Emerging Luxury Spa in the World in 2017, the Mayan Spa keeps Mayan beauty secrets and original art pieces from the years 600 to 900 AC that will take you straight into the Mayan culture. • CONTACT Hotel & Spa Claris 5*GL - Carrer de Pau Claris, 150, 08009 Barcelona Website: www.hotelclaris.com/en/ Email: claris@derbyhotels.com Phone: +34 934 87 62 62

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PARIS

THE PERFECT ROMANTIC RETREAT Jo Gardner visits the luxury Shangri-La Hotel in Paris. With unmatched views of the Eiffel Tower from the bedroom, luxury treatments on offer at CHI, The Spa, and delicious meals available at the hotel’s three restaurants, one might be forgiven for never setting foot outside the hotel during their visit to Paris. WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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Ahh Paris… What’s not to love? Whether it’s the scent of spring blossom filling the air of the pretty streets; the kaleidoscope of reds, oranges and mauves in the trees come autumn; or just sitting in a cosy bistro in the winter tucking into French onion soup with homemade bread, there’s never a bad time to visit the city of romance. From the famous Tour Eiffel – location of many a successful proposal – to the bustling cobbled streets of Montmartre, and from the panoramic views across the city from the mighty Sacré-Coeur to the evening twinkle on the Seine, the romantically inspiring settings in Paris are plentiful. Here’s how to do it in style:

I

f you hate airports (and let’s face it, who doesn’t), a trip on the Eurostar is a must. Not only is the journey direct but it lasts just two hours and plonks you straight into the centre of Paris. Arriving at the grand St Pancras International station for our early evening departure to Paris feels very decadent indeed; a trip to the Champagne bar for a glass of bubbles pre-boarding and we are off to a really romantic start. Delay heading through security and spend some time browsing the wide array of shops on the ground floor – from Jo Malone to Godiva Chocolatiers, everything is tres inviting – even the floor has a nice shine to it. On boarding, the first thing I notice is the difference between the standard economy seating and Business Premier compared with English trains – upgrade on the Eurostar and you’ll be treated to free glasses of fizz on boarding, plush seats with head rests, TVs with movies on demand and a three-course meal served on white table cloths with silver cutlery. Menus are lovingly designed by Raymond Blanc with food reflecting the seasons – our mackerel starter with green beans is fresh and light; our chicken main with crushed potatoes and grainy mustard warm and comforting. Throughout our meal good quality French wines flows. By the time coffee arrives, we are pulling into Gare du Nord. Our stay of choice is the iconic Shangri-La on Avenue D’Iéna, a 10-minute taxi ride from the station. Built in 1896 as the home of Prince Bonaparte, and the same year as the Eiffel Tower, this listed building is not without its authenticity. Skip across original parquet floors, admire marble pillars, stare through stained glass windows and caress wrought iron banisters as you head up winding staircases. Whatever you do, remember to look up – huge ornate chandeliers dominate every room. It took four years to renovate this property into a 100room hotel, opening in 2010 with three lounges, three restaurants – one with two Michelin stars; the other with one – a fantastic bar offering killer cocktails and a stylish spa.

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Push the boat out and stay in a suite with views over the Eiffel Tower – not only does your room come with a view of the tower so dashing you feel like you can reach out and touch it through the window but, with the Parisian Romance package, each couple receives a bottle of Veuve Clicquot to sip while drinking in the glittering views. It’s little wonder three proposals a week happen here. With such splendid accommodation at our disposal, and the best view of Paris right in front of us, we decide that exploring can wait until the morning. We resist the temptation to pop the cork right away and head down to the hotel’s Chi Spa, a haven of white and green with a 15-metre pool surrounded by soft loungers. Swimming leisurely lengths as the early evening sun shines through the glass roof feels glorious. The spa offers a menu of treatments using revered French brand Organic Pharmacy; my signature Rose Crystal Facial (90 minutes, £220) is extremely impressive. After three therapeutic masks are applied, the lymphatic system is decongested using rose crystals, and my facial muscles are firmed with an acupressure massage. Ending with a rose-scented face cream, I leave smelling fresh as a daisy (or rose). Back in our room, we pop open the champagne and put our glad rags on. By the time we are suited and booted the Eiffel Tower is gloriously lit up and seemingly winking at us in approval. In the romance vs cheese stakes it’s definitely Paris: 1, cheese: nil. When it comes to your evening meal, make a beeline for L’Abeille (meaning bee), the hotel’s classic French restaurant with two Michelin stars, or head to Shang Palace, the only Chinese restaurant in France with a Michelin star. We begin the evening with a drink in Le Bar Botaniste - a botanist’s dream, with hanging plants and sofas adorned with zebra-print cushions – before dining in the Shangri La’s the third restaurant: La Bauhinia, a French/South East Asian fusion restaurant with a mod-

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ern green light centrepiece and a grand piano. My starter of Tomatoes from The Farm with tangy cheese and a Bloody Mary sauce is a fresh, colourful delight; we both opt for the shrimp Pad Thai and agree it’s one of the best we’ve tried outside of Thailand. Another glass of fizz in our room (what? It will go flat) and we thank our lucky stars we chose Paris. In the morning, you can enjoy a cooked breakfast or you can petit déjeuner the way the French do: in your room with pots of hot coffee, glasses of freshly-squeezed juice and baskets full of hot, crunchy croissants and pain au chocolat.

5 ROMANTIC THINGS TO DO IN PARIS Have a romantic picnic – There are endless spots you can choose from in Paris to sit down and enjoy each other’s company, from the Luxembourg Palace and Gardens to Buttes aux Chaumont. You can pick up fresh bread, cheese, wine and treats in the city to enjoy on your picnic. Take a stroll along Canal Saint-Martin – Canal Saint-Martin is both a waterway and a trending area of Paris which, over its history, has inspired painters such as Alfred Sisley. It’s not overcrowded with tourists and there are plenty of popular restaurants and bars around to stop for refreshments. Visit the Wall of Love (Le Mur Des Je t’aime) - a love-themed wall in the Jehan Rictus garden square in Montmartre. The wall was created by Fédéric Baron and Claire Kito in 2000 and the phrase ‘I love you’ is written on it in 250 different languages on hundreds of tiles. Take to the water – You can enjoy one of Paris’ lakes, such as Bois de Boulogne or Bois de Vincennes, on a rented rowboat. Bask in each other’s company without distractions, or do as the Parisians do and take a picnic on board with you to eat out on the water. Take in the view from the Eiffel Tower – I know it’s a cliché, however the Eiffel Tower, standing at 324 metres, is the tallest structure in Paris, and great heights equal great views. Don’t feel like schlepping it all the way to the top? No problem - you can still enjoy the views from the first floor restaurant, 58 Tour Eiffel.

GETTING THERE Eurostar - eurostar.com/rw-en STAY Shangri-La Hotel, Paris - 10 Avenue d’Iéna, 75116 | +33 1 53 67 19 98 shangri-la.com

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HOME IS WHERE

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Whether you’re into food, art, or architecture, you’ll feel right at home Instagramming Millennium Park. choosechicago.com/welcomehome

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“10 best city arts districts around the usa” — usa today

JOIN IN AT ThisisCLEVELAND.COM

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Austrian Alps • Italian Dolomites • Picos de Europa • Pyrenees

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We open more doors than Casanova. With MRT you are not just superbly informed by leading experts, you are guaranteed privileged moments in unforgettable places. Our cultural tours have the edge with unrivalled access to little-known and rarely-seen locations. In Venice, for instance, we visit some outstanding private palazzi by arrangement with their owners, and enjoy St Mark’s Basilica all to ourselves on an out-of-hours visit; in Moscow, a foremost Russian string quartet plays exclusively for us; and in India we explore one of Rajasthan’s finest forts with its custodian. We could go on. Our tours with special arrangements include: Venetian Palaces | Moscow & St Petersburg | Mughals & Rajputs | Le Corbusier The Cathedrals of England | Connoisseur’s Prague | Danish Castles & Gardens www.viestramagazine.com

‘One highlight after another. The private visit to St Mark’s could almost justify the tour by itself.’ Contact us: +44 (0)20 8742 3355 martinrandall.com ATOL 3622 | ABTA Y6050 | AITO 5085

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Your Perfect Event in the Chiswick Ballroom •

Conferences

Exhibitions

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Dry Hire Events

Full-catered Weddings

Social Gatherings

Book now to create your perfect event 626 Chiswick High Road, London, W4 5RY, England +44 20 8996 5200 cb.chiswick@claytonhotels.com pmiklasevica@claytonhotels.com

Superbly connected to Heathrow Airport’s Terminal 4 via a covered walkway, Hilton London Heathrow Airport offers contemporary accommodation and premium facilities. Whether staying for business or leisure, enjoy excellent links to the capital and convenient air connections to the world. • 398 guest rooms and suites • Three restaurants and a bar on site • LivingWell Health Club, pool, steam room and sauna • Business Centre and 15 meeting rooms • 300-delegate capacity event suite • 30 minutes to Central London from Terminal 4 • Easy links to all Heathrow Terminals

HILTON LONDON HEATHROW AIRPORT | Terminal 4 | Heathrow Airport | Hounslow Middlesex London | TW6 3AF United Kingdom | T: +44 (0) 20 8759 7755 | E: events.heathrow@hilton.com | heathrow.hilton.com

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Take a remarkable Viking journey, where the views come to you 2019 river cruises from ÂŁ1,595pp 2019-2020 ocean cruises from ÂŁ2,140pp To find out more or to request our brochures, call 020 8780 8711 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available on selected 2019-2020 cruises. Prices valid until 31 December 2018. Single supplements apply. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

iestra_Nov2018_90x120_v4.indd 1

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Spirit of Adventure Launching Summer 2020 Introducing Saga’s second state-of-the-art new cruise ship. Sister ship to Spirit of Discovery, Spirit of Adventure’s inaugural season features classic cruises to the fjords, Med, Canaries and Caribbean, along with short hops to the Continent and around the British Isles, from just £694pp.

Every cabin has a private balcony as standard

Complimentary chauffeur service

Every cruise is backed by our Price Promise and you’ll be amazed how much we include in the fare. In fact, we’re so confident you’ll love your first cruise with us, we promise to refund your money if you don’t*.

All inclusive for 2020

Speciality dining at no extra charge

For more details call 0800 056 8986 quoting STASC or visit saga.co.uk/2020-launch

Price is per person, based on two people sharing a Standard Balcony cabin aboard Spirit of Adventure’s Christmas Sights of Amsterdam cruise, departing December 16, 2020. Includes optional travel insurance underwritten by Great Lakes Insurance SE, UK Branch, and additional cancellation rights, or a price reduction of £18 if not required (cover is subject to medical questions). *Visit saga.co.uk/loveit for full details. Private chauffeur service up to 75 miles each way or shared chauffeur service from 76-250 miles. Please ask for further details. All inclusive cruises include selected wines at lunch and dinner, Saga house-branded spirits, cocktails containing house-branded spirits, draught beer and lager, non-alcoholic cocktails, all mixers and soft drinks. Saga Holidays are for anyone aged 50+. A travel companion may be 40+. Saga Holidays is a trading name of ST&H Ltd (registration no. 2174052). ST&H Ltd and Saga Cruises Ltd (registration no. 3267858) are subsidiaries of ST&H Group Ltd (registration no. 0720588). All three companies are registered in England and Wales. Registered Office: Enbrook Park, Sandgate, Folkestone, Kent CT20 3SE. With respect to general insurance products sold in the UK, ST&H Ltd is an appointed representative of Saga Services Limited, registered in England and Wales (company no. 732602), which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. NHA-SC1159.

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Enhance your experience with Heathrow’s Fast Track security

To book visit heathrow.com/fast-track Important information: All passengers flying out of Heathrow Airport are subject to the same security procedures and regulations. Heathrow recommends that passengers ensure that they have allowed enough time for the usual security and x-ray screening. As a premium experience, customers who have purchased access to Fast Track Security will be given a priority service to ensure that waiting is kept to a minimum. However, we cannot guarantee a maxi-mum or minimum queue length or time. Access to Heathrow’s Fast Track Security is granted through a pre-booked time slot. Whilst Heathrow will endeavour to ensure that all passengers are able to access Fast Track, access may be denied for latecomers. Please remember that it is the passenger’s responsibility to ensure they arrive at the departure gate at the published boarding time as stated by the airline. Heathrow Airport is not responsible for any passengers who miss their flight because they did not allow enough time to go through the check-in and security process. Please note all passengers including infants and babies require both an airline ticket and a Fast Track ticket if they want to pass through Fast Track security.

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www.berninaexpress.ch

Bernina Express From glaciers to palms

Experience one of the most spectacular ways to cross the Alps: The Albula and Bernina lines of the Rhaetian Railway. One of the highlights is the panoramic journey through the UNESCO World Heritage RhB.

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Information / Reservation / Sales Rhaetian Railway, Railservice, Tel +41 (0)81 288 65 65, railservice@rhb.ch, www.rhb.ch

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Premier Premier by Brightsun Travel are bespoke corporate and luxury travel specialists, established in 1986. Our team of experienced travel consultants are available 24/7 to suit your travel needs. With our partnerships with airlines and hotels globally we can offer:

Discounts on business and first class fares Advice on maximising loyalty points, lounge passes and upgrades 24/7 check-in and check-out on a vast range of hotels Complimentary room upgrades on a wide range of hotels and more

T: 0208 819 9852 W: btpremier.com ATOL: 3853 108

Always MAKING

T�VEL A PLEASURE

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