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MODES TY

The Modesty movement is growing. Is the fashion industry giving it enough space?

M ODE STY

CONTENTS 02 33

INTRODUCTION

34 41

SECONDARY RESEARCH

42 47

PRIMARY RESEARCH

ORIGINS OF MODESTY DEFINING MODESTY IS MODEST MODEST?

INTERVIEWS INSIGHT

48 - THE MARKET 101 SUBMISSIONS COLLABORATIONS EDITORIAL

BIG IDEA

102 125

ROUTE TO CONSUMER

126 153

REFERENCES

154 161

APPENDIX

162 177

INSPIRATION NAME AND LOGO FONTS, SHAPE AND SIZE COLOUR PALETTE AND LAYOUT FRONT COVER PACKAGING

POSTCARDS BUSINESS CARDS WEBSITE SOCIAL MEDIA

SPECIFICATION PRINTERS FINISHING PRICING

SUBMISSIONS INTEREST STOCKISTS CONCLUSION

INTRO

‘FASHION IS HAVING A BIT OF A LOVE AFFAIR WITH COVERING UP THAT GOES WAY BEYOND JUST THE FAITHFUL’

The intention of this report is to discuss and examine the topic of modesty in relation to fashion. The objectives are to understand the consumer’s needs and address them and to challenge social perceptions towards modesty in the media and fashion industry.

Modest clothing is a complex subject encompassing different religious and cultural requirements and values which after investigation, will give insight into the way the modest market is today with regards to fashion retail purchasing.Modesty has always been a way of dressing in certain cultures and religions but is now also becoming part of the fashion landscape and adopted by mainstream women who for many reasons want to be more covered up.

In addition, the new interest in modest dressing is opening up the world of fashion to religious groups who have previously been an overlooked sector of the consumer market. Forbes (sales and marketing analysts) predicted in 2013 ‘”The next big untapped market would be Muslim women.” Interest in Modesty has been growing steadily. It reached a peak in 2015 with the rise of religious fashion bloggers and is now becoming an established and emulated trend, which is as timely and relevant in 2016 as it was in the very beginning. ed.

Amidst all the negative hype surrounding the wearing of hijabs, a group of young Muslim women made a video in 2014 called Mipsterz (Muslim meets hipster) which went viral immediately. Then in 2015, aware of the interest and untapped consumer buying power, a number of fashion brands featured Islamic wear among their collections aimed to coincide with Ramadan.The trickle down effect is now visible in the high street, however, there is still a demand for young fashionable modest clothing which is currently not being met by the fashion industry and the reasons for this will be investigated.

SECONDARY

‘WE HAVE BESTOWED RAIMENT UPON YOU TO COVER YOUR SHAME, AS WELL AS TO BE AN ADORNMENT TO YOU. BUT THE RAIMENT OF RIGHTEOUSNESS THAT IS THE BEST’

‘YOUR BODIES ARE THE TEMPLE OF THE HOLY SPIRIT WHO IS IN YOU, WHOM YOU HAVE FROM GOD AND THAT YOU ARE NOT ON YOUR OWN FOR YOU HAVE BEEN BOUGHT AT A GREAT PRICE. GLORIFY AND CARRY GOD’S BODY.’

O O O O

R R R R

I I I I

G G G G

INS INS INS INS

RELIGION CHART CHRISTIAN

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Very religious Muslim women only show No law show laid down but encouraged to dress hands bearingand in feet Only body and hair to husband Simplicity isattention key in style fabric Only show body and hairand to husband Not dress provocatively Not attract from the opposite sex Not attract attention from other men theisdoctrine ofused St Paul mind Tzniut the term to mean your identity equals your Appear graceful Not to draw attention to self, everyone should equals be equal. attract attention from men Dress appropriately context Tzniut is the the term in used toother mean your identity your inner self Not attract opposite sex women wear uniform dress Observant Clothes must not emphasize body shape inner self (same word as Muslim) Tzniut is the term used to mean your identity equals your Dress modestly toreflects please God Honour Dress inAllah a please way that inner modesty Dress to Heads should beGod covered Very religious Muslim women only show hands and feet inner self (same word as Muslim)

Simplicity is key in style and fabric Only show body and hair to husband Not dress provocatively show body hair husband Not attract attention from the opposite sex equals your Only Tzniut is the termand used to to mean your identity Not to drawattention attention to self, everyone should be equal.

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Only Only show and hair to husband Not attract attention from the opposite Tzniut isgraceful the term used to self, mean your identity equals your Observant women wear uniform dress Not to draw attention to everyone should be equal.

Appear inner Not self attract attention from other men Observant women wear uniform dress Headsmust be covered Clothes emphasize bodyyour shape Tzniut isshould thenot term used to mean identity equals your Dress modestly to please God Dress to please God Heads should beword covered Notreligious attract attention from theonly opposite Very Muslim women show sex hands and feet inner self (same as Muslim) Simplicity isattention keyand in style and fabric Only show body hair to husband Not attract from the opposite sex Tzniut is the term used to mean your identity equals your Notattract to draw attention to other self, everyone should be equal. inner Not attention from men self Observant women wear uniform dress Tzniut ismodestly the termGod used to mean Dressto to please God your identity equals your please Dress Heads should be covered inner self (same word as Muslim) Simplicity is keyand in style to and fabric Only husband Notshow attractbody attentionhair from the opposite sex Insights: Notattract to draw attention to other self, everyone should be equal.

Not attention from men Observant women wear uniform dress Tzniut isreally the term to your identity equals your Only certain women from certain religions aremodestly involved in mean this debate on style. toused please God Dress Heads should be covered inner self (same word as Muslim) Other categories of women are not interested in is fashion therefore would not be Simplicity key in and style andthe fabric Not attract attention from opposite sex included in any research.

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Non-religious Christian, Jewish and Muslim women will be theuniform potential consumer base Observant women wear dress

RELIGION CHART RELIGION CHART CHRISTIAN MUSLIM RELIGON DEFINITION CHRISTIAN RELIGION CHART CHRISTIAN MUSLIM RELIGION CHART CHRISTIAN MUSLIM JEWISH

MUSLIM CHART RELIGION CHRISTIAN MUSLIM JEWISH RELIGION CHART CHRISTIAN AMISH MUSLIM JEWISH JEWISH CHRISTIAN MUSLIM AMISH JEWISH

AMISH MUSLIM JEWISH AMISH AMISH MUSLIM JEWISH AMISH JEWISH AMISH JEWISH AMISH AMISH

for research.

Heads should be covered Not attract attention from the opposite sex

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FRYHUHG ³ Natasha (Blogger) 16:7 (Talya Bendell (fashion sales) (Maryam Asadullah) Yoneat Green (student) HQHYROHQW GHHGVœ (The Christian Working Woman) Modesty is about presenting yourself with a sort of Lubna Hassan(blogger) equals consist your of what is inside should Paul ³:H GRQœW GUHVV GLIIHUHQW MXVW WR EH GLIIHUHQW ZH GUHVV class and beauty respect and allows Modesty is about presenting yourself with a that sort commands of ZLWK D JHQWOH DQG NLQG VSLULW œ DXW\ VKRXOG QRW FRQVLVW RI RXWZDUG ³:H KDYH D UHVSRQVLELOLW\ WR PHQ WR KHOS WKHP QRW OXVW V D SDUW RI IDLWK DQG WKDW SDUW RI ³,œG OLNH WR WKLQN ,œYH IRXQG D EDODQFH EHWZHHQ ZKDW P\ NV DW WKH RXWHU DSSHDUDQFH EXW ³7KH EDVLFV RI PRGHVW\ PD\ VHHP UHVWULFWLYH EXW ³, ORYH IROORZLQJ WUHQGV EXW , QHYHU VDFULILFH P\ YDOXHV GLIIHUHQW EHFDXVH ZH ZDQW WR UHSUHVHQW PRGHVW\ ´ RWKHUV WR VHH \RX IRU ZKR \RX DUH´ class and beauty that commands respect and allows eV DW WKH KHDUW œ elaborate hairstyles and the EXW WKDW GRHVQœW PHDQ HYHU\ LQFK RI VNLQ QHHGV WR EH LH LQ WKH KHDUW ´ religion asks of me and and how I choose to create UHDOO\ WKH RSWLRQV DUH LQILQLWH´ IRU WKHP´ Yoneat Green (student) RWKHUV WR VHH \RX IRU ZKR \RX DUH´ of gold ornaments or fine clothes.

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The three main religions have no restrictions regarding accessories or make up even though the holy texts do advocate not spending attention to outward appearances.

SELF WORTH Modesty means different things to different people, but to most people who dress modestly for religious reasons, it is about respecting your body which in many religions is viewed as sacred.

It is also about dressing for self worth & reserving oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beauty for within marriage, but primarily for the glory of God.

Whole arm covered Elbows covered

Neck covered Trousers

Collar bone covered

Sandals Heels

Not too bright ± especially not red

No bare legs No slits in skirts No trousers No linen/wool mix

Jewellery

Not too tight No sheer

Trousers

Strapless

Sandals

Ok with t-shirt under modest neckline

Crop tops if meet waist line No halter necks No straples High waisline

Skirt max 2 inches above the knee

Simply jewellery Any colors

Shoulders covered No cross dressing

I S MODEST I S MODEST I S MODEST I S MODEST

MODEST? MODEST? MODEST? MODEST?

‘O CHILDREN OF ADAM, YOU SHALL BE CLEAN AND DRESS NICELY WHEN YOU GO TO THE MASJID BUT YOU WILL BE ADORNED THEREIN WITH BRACELETS OF GOLD, YOU WILL WEAR CLOTHES OF GREEN SILK’ There are different levels of modesty within religions and much depends upon which country you live in as to how it is enforced. In Iran and Saudi Arabia, despite Sharia law, some women appear physically and financially ostentatious while being almost entirely concealed by their clothing.

Are these Muslim women flaunting the rules of modesty in order to still look feminine and attractive?

Is their desire to be attractive more important to them than their religious doctrines and wishes of their husbands? .

Although it could be argued that these women are not dressing entirely modestly, these small allowancespermit them to live their lives in accordance with their religious beliefs and those of their family, and still express their individuality. The insight gained from this is that there is plenty of scope for fashion to manifest itself in the modesty market, for example creating ranges of accessories, hijabs shoes, bags jewelry to co-ordinate with outfits.

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EX TER NAL

Consumer archetypes (faith) Women who are religious but not ultra - they are allowed personal expression. Within this group there are: are creative and make their own clothes want to use clothing to show off the brand want to use clothing to make themselves look more attractive want to dress fashionably want to use dress to identify with their faith

Consumer archetypes (non-faith) Women who are religious but not ultra - they are allowed personal expression. Within this group there are: are creative and make their own clothes want to use clothing to show off the brand want to use clothing to make themselves look more attractive want to dress fashionably want to use dress to identify with their faith

MODESTY MODESTY MODESTY MODESTY

TODAY TODAY TODAY TODAY

Being a woman (of any religion) in 2016, and trying to keep up ‘modest’ tradition and laws, is more difficult now than ever, as there are so many more distractions with the internet and social media sites such as Facebook and Twitter. Peer pressure makes it hard for any young woman to avoid getting caught up in them in some way, for example. sending pictures of herself for millions of people to see would seem to be immodest behaviour yet it is acceptable to the younger generation of women.

Exposing themselves via the internet to the entire world could make them vulnerable to abuse and criticism from those who judge them as victims of male oppression.

However social media has enhanced their shopping experiences and made it easier to find suitable clothing, “Thanks to social media, these women are able to connect through their mutual respect for religion and love for fashion, inspiring other women to do the same.” (Business Insider UK Sept 2015)

‘MUSLIM WOMEN ARE TRYING TO COMBINE MORALITY WITH A MODERN SENSE OF STYLE TO EXPRESS THEIR INDIVIDUALITY, MAXI DRESSES AND LONG SKIRTS ARE A CLASSIC EXAMPLE AS THEY ARE POPULAR AMONG TH E ISLAMIC AND WESTERN CULTURE.’

ACTRESSES

ROYALTY / POLITICIANS

WOMEN IN THE MEDIA

PERCENTAGES OF TIME USERS SPEND ON

SOCIAL MEDIA

Contributory factors about why the modesty trend is becoming more popular: Check out the new maxi shirts on the Zara website!

The increase in the number of Muslims in this country, which is now around 3 million (Muslim Council 2015)

PERCENTAGES OF TIME USERS TIME USERS SPEND ON TIME USERS SPEND ON clothing PERCENTAGES OFa peak TIME USERS A backlash against the very immodest that began in the 1960’s and reached in the last 20 years TIME USERS SPEND ON SOCIAL NETWORKS/BLOGS Celebrities setting the trend (possibly as an escape from the media who are obsessed with scrutinizing S OF TIME USERS SPEND ON SOCIAL NETWORKS/BLOGS and criticizing women’s bodies.)

The rise in popularity of young people returning to their religious roots (Telegraph 2016)

OTHER

56.5%

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out the maxi on the website!

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7.7 7.7 56.5 7.7 7.7 56.5 6.5% 6.5 % E-MAIL E-MAIL VIDEOS/MOVIES 6.5 % VIDEOS/MOVIES 6.5 % 4.3%Check out the 4.3 % new maxi VIDEOS/MOVIES shirts on Check outthe the VIDEOS/MOVIES Zara website! new maxi 4.3% shirts on the 4.3 % Zara website!

There are other current conflicting trends that seem almost in opposition to modesty, such as the very brash and openly sexual statements being made by celebrities like Beyonce, Miley Cyrus and Kim Kardashian. By pushing the boundaries of taste to the extreme, these celebrities are helping to drive the modesty trend as some secular women are becoming modest as a reaction to the hyper sexual environment they find themselves in.Celebrities are involved in this debate wearing more modest designer clothing, Emma Watson, an advocate for modesty quoted â&#x20AC;&#x153; The less you reveal, the more people wonder.â&#x20AC;?

Kate Middleton’s blog

Kate Middleton’s blog

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Worldwide following

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Outfits showcased on her style blog

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Her modest wedding dress inspired millins of designers and brides all over the world (Marie Claire, 2015).

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•

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Her modest we dress inspired millions of des and brides all o the world. (Ma Claire, 2015).

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Debbie Shatzk 29 year old blo describes her gold standard modesty”.

Debbie Shatzkes, a 29 year old blogger describes her as ‘the gold standard of modesty).

Famous Jewish Orthodox actress Mayim Bialik often photographed on the red carpet in different modest dresses, which she reviews on her blog. Fashion awardwinning Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have been photographed werring relatively modest clothing over the past year, which has boosted their sales (Guardian, 2015)

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Modesty catwalk show at Washington DC Fashion week

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Christian fashion week US BBC Programme: The Beauty Muslim Pageant and me Modest fashion awards Modesty catwalk show at Washington DC Fashion week

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MODESTY MODESTY MODESTY MODESTY

OFFSHOOT OFFSHOOT OFFSHOOT OFFSHOOT

There is also an offshoot of the modesty trend. As well as the people who dress modestly for faith or self respect there are others to whom modesty is the new ‘sexy’ which is contradictory but at the same time understandable as until recently, it has generally been considered that ‘less is more.’ These consumers who are buying into the look in order to seem classy and sexy are also driving the trend. Fashion boutiques and web sites with names like Sexy Modest and Modest is

hottest are endorsing covering up but in a commercial and suggestive way. The danger with commercializing the trend in this way is that it can make it into a temporary fashion trend that could disappear next year and be replaced by something new.

This is contrary to some experts predictions. ‘Muslim fashion has sparked a global movement that’s here to stay.” Alia Khan (founder and chairman of Islamic fashion and design Council)

PRIMARY

‘COVERED

YET WELL WORN’

‘CONCEALS THE BODY BUT LOOKS NICE’

‘FASHION ALONGSIDE RELIGON’ ‘IF MY HUSBAND DOESN’T THINK IT’S MODEST, IT ISN’T.

A questionnaire was posted to modest fashion bloggers and potential customers (see appendix).The aim of this was to find out more about the consumer in preparation for follow up questions in a focus group.

Main Outcomes; Majority prefer to shop online Difficulty finding clothes in the high street Spend up to £30 fortnightly mostly on day wear Influenced mainly by modest celebrities Being fashionable is an important factor but in keeping with faith Not everyone has the freedom to make choices

Street interviews were conducted in a multicultural area of North London, asking people what the word ‘modest’ meant to them.

The answers were very diverse due to the mixed demographic of the neighbourhood In general, younger women spoke more about fashion Not everyone (particularly older women) has the freedom to make choices

A questionnaire was posted to modest fashion bloggers and potential customers (see appendix).The aim of this was to find out more about the consumer in preparation for follow up questions in a focus group. Street interviews were conducted in a multicultural area of North London, asking people what the word ‘modest’ meant to them. The answers were very diverse due to the mixed demographic of the neighbourhood but in general, younger women spoke more about fashion and some of the older women allowed their husbands to make their decisions for them.

MELANIE ELTURK Interviewing Melanie Elturk, the co owner of Haute Hijab, (a UK hijab modest fashion website) provided good insight into the modest fashion market and confirmed previously held ‘hints’ of a gap in the market (see appendix). “I think there is an assumption that Islamic and modest women in general don’t care about fashion which is of course untrue.

I think there is a huge gap in the market.”

RABBIS WIFE AND MORMON Two women were interviewed separately; A Rabbi’s wife who is a clothing historian and who’s lectures provided useful background information (see appendix). A member of the local Mormon community. Insight gained is that the relationship between religion and fashion is really the preoccupation of the younger generation. The baby boomer generation will not be target consumersThe research shows that although many older women like to look stylish, demand is higher for younger women to be included in the fashion landscape.

FOCUS GROUP A focus group was held with five modest girls of Generation Y from different religious backgrounds and also those of no particular faith Most took inspiration from modest bloggers Modest websites too prescriptive to particular faiths instead of general modesty. Modest fashion in shops mostly old fashioned, basic and difficult to negotiate.

Majority were on line shopper. Use social media sites and magazines for looking at what people are wearing. Would welcome an easier buying experience. There was a genuine enthusiasm and excitement from the group about the prospect of something new coming along that would understand their needs.

It was apparent that some of these young women have evolved a modest trend of their own. By making use of what outfits were available to them, and adapting them to make them more modest, for example; teaming a long sleeved t-shirt under a strapless dress or layering a petticoat to add length to a skirt. The need for them to be resourceful is a direct result of stores ‘not speaking their language.’ The outcome is that a new street look has emerged which is influencing the fashion world who are beginning to listen to them. “My modesty does not prevent me from buying fashionforward clothing. On the contrary, it is the reason I have a unique sense of style.”

(Michelle Honig journalist Vogue)

A SHOPPING EXPIDITION A shopping expedition with three modest women was arranged. This was useful qualitive research as it was possible to ask questions and observe the shopping behaviours of potential consumers.Empathetic research was conducted, with the researcher and three friends, not used to dressing modestly, shopping for a day. Recording the feelings that this experience generated provided insight into the modest woman’s lifestyle helping to define the target consumer and strengthening suspicions that there is a gap in the market for fashionable modest clothing. Looking into other cultures that practice modesty, a visit to Japan sparked off an interest in ethnography and in Japanese fashion especially as their whole ethos has always been traditionally very modest. Although some of the Harajuko girls looked quite outrageous, many were still keeping to the rules of modesty.

The insight gained is that modesty appears to be deeply embedded in many cultures.

GIANT FLIP BOOK Creating a giant, hand made flipbook with split pages displaying different mix and match garments (see appendix).The women in the focus groups were asked to put together outfits that they would wear. This was intended as a fun exercise, which encouraged them to feel relaxed and generated a lot of ideas. It gave insight into their preferred styles and shopping habits. Older women found some of the choices too unusual and played safe with their selections. They said the choices were making too much of a statement and detracting from the idea of modesty. The exercise generated the idea of a website flipbook.

STREET STYLE Modest streetstyle photographs were taken for reference (see appendix) Decoding the street style and the VM found in London‘s Covent Garden helped to understand the current market. Some modest garments, for example maxi skirts can be found in generic shops but they are often paired with items that are not modest, such as crop tops or bralets, and long sleeved tops were often paired with denim skirts or shorts. making it an inappropriate shopping experience for modest consumers. In general there was not much modest clothing to be seen in this fashionable part of London.

There would seem from secondary and primary research that a gap in the market exists for a modest clothing concession in stores. Indications are that it could be a very popular solution. However reasons as to why that service is not already in place needs to be investigated. One reason why high street brands are not stocking ‘modest’ clothing collections may stem from a lack of understanding of the potential size of the market.

However, experts predict the modest clothing market could be worth £100m a year in the UK alone (Daily Mail 2015). In 2014, Islamic modest fashion sector expenditure reached $230 billion worldwide and will be worth $327 billion by 2020 (Arabian Business.com 2015).Another reason they are unlikely to want to signpost an exclusively modest range is because they would not wish to be caught up in the controversy surrounding modest clothing versus oppression argument.

THE MARKET

‘MARKET RESEARCH IS VITAL FOR UNDERSTANDING THE CRITICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF YOUR TARGET MARKET TO INCREASE SALES REVENUE, PROFIT AND OVERALL BUSINESS SUCCESS.

On 3rd January 2016, Style.com/Arabia announced the launch of a range of clothing by Dolce & Gabbana.It was aimed at the Muslim market but with D & G’s own distinctive style and incorporating the colours/trends/themes of their general spring/summer 2016 collection.

The hijabs and abayas were featured in a 20 page lookbook.

The launch of Dolce and Gabbana’s new range sent the fashion world ‘into a spin’ and sparked an enormous amount of interest.

CASE STUDY The insight gained from this was that modesty is definitely making its mark. The insight from reading bloggers and tweets in the aftermath of this is that it has given them a voice and also given them confidence. Those who were feeling diffident are now beginning to feel more empowered (Beckyearley.com 2015).With more and more young women and teenagers wearing hijabs, there is a strong hint that there is a whole generation still to be targeted who remain largely under-estimated and unreached. Although less revealing options are not targeted exclusively towards Muslim women, sales are likely to be boosted by Muslim customers’ (ibtimes newspaper). For retailers that capitalize on this emerging market effectively at an early stage, Muslim fashion will represent an important additional generator of sales” (Cathy Benson, journalist)

The Japanese fashion brand ‘Uniqlo’ is an example of moving the trend forward by selling hijabs and very recently launched a collection of ‘modest wear’ made in collaboration with the Muslim designer Hana Tajima (Dazed Digital March 2016).

The online fashion brand ‘Miu Miu Maxi.’ was founded by two Jewish orthodox women yet their customers are from many different faiths. The designs are minimalistic, bold and unusual enough to be featured in ‘Vogue’, ‘Fashionista’ and ,MarieClaire’.

Other online brands impacting around the ‘modesty’ trend (although mainly targeting Muslim consumers) : In terms of garments, swimwear has been impacted and the 2015 collections were a lot more modest than the previous year(The global rise of modest swimwear, Modestsea 2015). Research showed that modest swimming costumes were the most impacted, hitting the early majority (Decent exposure, Jessica Ray 2015)/ Riviera Style exhibition 2015

The Perceptual Map of specific modest clothing brands that are currently on the market helped to compare the differences and showed that the majority of them focus on one religion. The other insight gained was that many of these brands did not have an established social media presence.Another perceptual map was completed with high end and high street brands offering modesty so as to ensure that the whole fashion spectrum was covered. The luxury designers most empathetic to the modesty trend were, DKNY, Lanvin, Gucci, Net a Porter and D & G (the latter two, even produced collections to coincide with Ramadan).Luxury brands that are creating immodest styles are Versace, Givenchy, Calvin Klein. Moving down the design spectrum, Olsen twins, Mary Kate and Ashley are producing quite modest collections. The high street modest trend promoters are shops such as Zara, Oasis, Mango and Next.

Examples of immodest shops are Top Shop, American Apparel and River Island.Comparing these one can see that as expected, the high street brands are much less modest than the designer brands which is a hint that the trickle down effect is diluting the message .In addition, some independently owned modest fashion shops exist but they are generally old fashioned and do not appeal to people who want to dress modestly and fashionably.

POLITICAL There is much controversy in terms of religious clothing. France and Belgium, backed by the European Court of Human Rights, upheld the banning of the niqab (full face veil) in 2014 and other obvious religious symbols in schools and public places. No such general ban applies in the UK, but institutions do have discretion to impose their own dress codes. In 2013, teaching staff at a school in Derby were told they had to cover their heads or leave the school (Telegraph, 2013).

There is a hint here that it is important to bear this in mind when marketing an outcome of the trend, so that it is not too controversial.

POLITICAL

ECONOMIC Current economic figures show the UK economy is growing steadily, has falling unemployment, low inflation, and consumer spending has been one of the driving forces of the UK recovery (Financial Times 2016). Also the rising employment among young Muslim women is a positive factor as they will have more of their own money to spend (Ogilvy Noor 2016).

ECONOMIC

SOCIAL Interpretations of a Koranic verse (an-Nur chapter 24, verse 30) advocating modesty and espousing appropriate female attire have long restricted what many Muslim women can wear. Today, experts say things are changing and increasing numbers of Muslim women want to dress fashionably and express their individuality through clothing (Ogilvy Noor 2016).“It is part of a bigger social movement in terms of the empowerment of women within the Muslim community,” Sarah Elenany, a British Muslim designer. Some women are having to curb their rights to self –expression because they are being dominated by the male members of their family and their community for fear of attracting other male interest.

This could be seen as anti feminist and backward but to some women dressing to please their husband is an acceptable request that they feel offers them some security and protection.

SOCIAL

SOCIAL One woman in a focus group comfortably stated “If my husband doesn’t think it’s modest, it’s not modest.” This is a controversial and highly sensitive subject where people may be easily offended and angered by what they see as a lack of modesty (this can come from women as well as men). There does not appear to be any anti-modest blogging sites or journalistic articles which would indicate that there is no significant backlash at the present time. A friar, Bernardo Finelli in 1983, interviewed people about why they were abandoning religious dress and found a common response was “ We can better approach people when we are like them; we will not offend people who are not of our faith.” With more women joining the modest ’bandwagon’ the boundaries in dress codes will become more blurred and help defeat prejudiced attitudes such as those who feel everyone should be fitting in with the “British’ style of dressing. The term ‘modesty’ itself is very fluid and subject to social, cultural and geographical location.

SOCIAL

TECHNOLOGY Technology is very influential in driving the trend. In the past, religious modest women would be influenced by their family and local magazines. Now, they use the internet to look at what celebrities are wearing, and they are influenced by social media such as blogging sites, Facebook,Twitter and Instagram.â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Social media is a saviour not a nemesis, an asset not a liability, a time saver not a time killerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Michael Gass, 2011).

ENVIROMENT The trend could be adversely affected by use of unacceptable practices that are sometimes found in the manufacturing industry in third world countries such as India, and Bangladesh with poor working conditions and under-age workers. A recent report by labour rights NGO India found that workers at factories that make clothes for H&M and others, live and work in near-slavery conditions, with 50% of factories lacking any fire safety measures. Publicity such as this could be damaging to the trend.

ENVIROMENT

LEGAL With any possible outcome from this trend, there will be financial, strategic & operational risks and legal factors to consider. The service will have to abide by the health & safety laws in terms of high street stores and concessions, and consumer protection laws.

LEGAL

BIG IDEA

‘A SERVICE TO APPEAL TO AND REACH THE MODERN MODEST WOMAN WHO WANTS TO BE FASHIONABLE’

USP

The big idea is aimed at generation Y women who are willing to make the choice to dress and accessorize on trend whilst remaining modest.

Taking into account the research about what modesty means, the service offered will need to encompass the main ‘umbrella’ modesty laws whilst not offering a service exclusively for specific religions.

There have always been culture clashes around the subject of extreme clothing. A lot of this stems from fear and dislike of anything that seems different or threatening for example the Burka, which covers the woman completely. A recent poll for the Express newspaper found the majority of people in favour of a ban (March 2016).

After a broad analysis of opportunities relating to modesty (see appendix) the final idea is based on authority,

The new service will be inclusive rather than exclusive as it won’t promote any extreme religious clothing or items that would conceal the whole body. It will hopefully create a community of people of different faiths or no faith at all to share a dialogue and exchange ideas.The next step will be choosing the best creative concept to deliver the The key insight that led to the big idea, testing its viability and idea of this service were the building awareness around it. realization that there is a dearth of choice of fashionable modest clothing in shops and online even though there is an apparent growing market of people interested. The USP would be a neutral take on modesty without explicitly stating religions, as research has given insight that there are all kinds of women who want to be modest, not just religious women. instinctive thoughts and hints gained. The big idea is ‘a service to appeal to and reach the modern modest woman who wants to be fashionable.’

Creative methodology was used to turn insight into a big idea which is ‘A service to appeal to and reach the modest woman who wants to be fashionable.’

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BIG IDEA 81

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THE THE THE THE

W

CONSUMER C O N S U M E R? C O N S U M E R? C O N S U M E R?

ALICE Young woman working full time Her annual clothing spend is ÂŁ600.

Her go-to online brand is ASOS as she likes the choice but feels intimidated by it.

She needs help in trend responses and therefore multiple purchasing.

She is plotted on the late majority, as she wants to be fashionable but finds it difficult to pair modest items together and would find it really helpful to get advice in this regard.

She has bold tastes and enjoys making a statement but is nervous of making mistakes.

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She enjoys online shopping and is active on social media.

SARAH A student.

Likely to buy into brands and her go -to online brand is Next as she thinks theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re the most on trend to source modest products, without having an overwhelming selection and because they also donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have too many immodest items on view.

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She wants to add more things to her wardrobe but needs help in making those choices as she does not have a strong sense of self-style and is on a limited budget.

She is influenced by peer pressure, and buys on line in a social environment with friends of other faiths so doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to appear too different.

She would like to be less conservative and wants to be fashionable and unobtrusively modest.

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‘ I AM SCANDALIZED, I HAVE ALWAYS BELIEVED THAT A FASHION DESIGNER IS THERE TO MAKE WOMEN BEAUTIFUL AND GRANT THEM FREEDOM AND NOT TO SIDE WITH THIS COMPULSORY DICTATORSHIP. THIS ABOMINBLE WAY OF HIDING WOMEN.’

There have always been culture clashes around Completing a SWOT analysis was helpful (see appendix). This revealed that there is a potentially big market. The fact that it is a new service and lacking online following is a weakness.

However this could also be seen as a favourable point as the service would be offering something new which could generate positive discussion on social media.

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A weakness is that social media potentially exposes you to possible harmful criticism. There is some risk of a backlash from strict observers of religion or opposition by human rights activists or feminists who may see the service as pandering to male dominance.

There is always the threat of competition so there needs to be an awareness and strategies put in place as the idea could be easily copied There may also be some opposition from within the fashion industry itself - Pierre Bergé, Yves Saint Laurent’s former business partner said on Europe 1 radio that they are “taking part in the enslavement of women”.

ROUTE TO CONSUMER

‘ INNOVATION STARTS BY INTIMATELY OBSERVING YOUR CONSUMER’

CURVE

2.5%

13.5%

34%

INNOVATORS

EARLY ADOPTERS

EARLY MAJORITY

34%

16%

LATE MAJORITY

LAGGARDS

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‘ CLOTHES ARE A MAJOR TOOL IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF IDENTITY.’

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WHEEL KEY NEED

)LJ ZLOO VDWLVI\ FR for stylish modes

AUDIENCE Identifying and understanding the most receptive market segments

BRAND E

MODEST, STY

PERSONALITY

Personalizing the message Âą making it appropriate for a variation of modest women. Fig has young tone of voice but still shows sophistication and intelligence

RQVXPHUÂľV QHHG st clothing

VALUE PROPOSITON Fig will link rationally with the consumer

ESSENCE

YLISH, CLEAR

PROOF Providing evidence and credibility

‘WHAT STARTED OUT AS A TREND WILL SOON BECOME AN IMPORTANT PART OF POST - MODERN CULTURE AS SOCIAL NETWORKS WILL EVENTUALLY BECOME A NATURAL EXTENSION OF OUR PUBLIC LIVES.’

On 3rd January 2016, Style.com/Arabia announced the launch of a range of clothing by Dolce & Gabbana.It was aimed at the Muslim market but with D & G’s own distinctive style and incorporating the colours/trends/themes of their general spring/summer 2016 collection.

The hijabs and abayas were featured in a 20 page lookbook.

The launch of Dolce and Gabbana’s new range sent the fashion world ‘into a spin’ and sparked an enormous amount of interest.

CASE STUDY Analysing why “Polyvore’ is helpful when developing ‘Fig.’ and supports the direction of Fig’s efforts. Polyvore is an online site which allows users to make combinations of different items of clothing that can be shared on social media, allowing people to keep up with trends. The site is very clean and easy to navigate which is essential for Fig’s website. Young people especially enjoy sharing their outfits on social media sites so it particularly appeals to them. They are linked to Pinterest to help generate sales. Polyvore gets 20 million + visits. (Trueship marketing.com 2016) Many retailers from designer to high street use the site to introduce new lines and then get feedback on them.Fig would use Polyvore as a role model and try to emulate its success.

UNNEL

AWARENESS

CONSIDERATION

PREFERENCE

ACTION

LOYALTY

ADVOCACY

The marketing funnel is the strategy Fig will take. The stages are: awareness, consideration, preference, action, loyalty and advocacy. They are plotted on a timeline of when they will occur.

‘A CLEAR VISUAL AESTHETIC OFFERS A CULTURALLY AWARE CONSUMER THE EASIEST MEANS OF RESPONDING TO ADVERTISING.’

LOOK BOOK

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LAYOUT

Circulating a lookbook ahead of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s launch will create anticipation and a buzz around the community. It will be used to introduce the brand to as many potential consumers as possible and is the fundamental building block of the strategy and the incentive to the action stage of the marketing funnel.

Lookbooks to be handed out at modest fashion events Fig will purchase a mailing list from brands that consumer’s are signed up to, i.e. a Muslim brand (Haute Hijab), a Jewish brand (Mimu maxi), a Christian brand (Downton Demure) and 15% of Zara. (Purchasing more than 15% is out of Fig’s price range.)

Lookbooks will be sent directly to the consumers’ homes to maximise readership. Primary research reveals that many consumers still live at home with their families, who may be more conservative or religious than them, so lookbooks will be packaged in a discreet way.

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A PVC slip to protect the lookbook is low costand shows Fig’s luxur and class.

Confetti tissue fig leaves will fall out when the package is opened – this adds a personal touch as if it had been sent and hand packaged from a friend.

The design recipe of the lookbook will maintain Fig’s concept of clarity and just eight modest outfits will be displayed, in a clear, distinctive way.

A4 size is too generic/ uncreative. Larger than A4 would increase production costsand not keep up the modest ethos.

The look book’s primary focus is the imagery within it. Therefore, the layout will not detract from this and it will feature a lot of white space. The design is sympathetic to Fig’s personality. It is simple and uncluttered with a n editorial layout and a muted colour.

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WEBSITE

The second part of the marketing funnel is consideration. This process will be initiated by Zara who will help Fig by being part of collaboration.

Methodology revealed Zara is one of the key places consumers like to shop. Therefore, it will be effective for Fig to have a presence on their social media sites and gain some of Zara’s following which will need funding. It will occur every Wednesday, at 2pm for one month.

This isn’t a key time for Zara and word or mouth will help to promote the buzz around when Fig are posting at that time. that Fig will use this opportunity to advertise their brand launch. There will be a competition for consumers to post modest outfits for a chance to be featured in Fig’s upcoming website. From this, other brands could want to get involved.

This collaboration will be mutually beneficial because much of the modest clothing will be from Zara and therefore, once Fig is launched, its consumers will be driven to Zara’s website.

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‘BIGGER BRANDS CAN PROVIDE A PLATFORM FOR THE SMALLER BRANDS TO SHOWCASE THEIR STUFF AS THEY ALREADY HAVE AN ESTABLISHED FOLLOWING.’

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SOCIAL MEDIA

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Consumers will be able to visit Fig’s personal social media pages. Consumers’ lifestyles are busy so the appropriate time to ‘speak to them’ is when they are active on social media. They are completely immersed into the world of social media so it is important that Fig keeps up with this fast paced world. Each social media page is a marketing strategy in itself as consumers can ‘like’ and ‘share’ posts. (see fig AIDA model). Social media will keep Fig’s established tone of voice, display Fig’s logo and be in keeping with the simple clarity concept. Fig’s social media is another place consumers can enter the competition to post their outfits with the chance to become featured on Fig’s feature section.

This will prompt consumers to explicitly engage with Fig. Fig will not bombard followers with posts but will do enough to keep the interest high. The search engine optimizations key word planner is invaluable technology and will bring Fig to the forefront when consumers search for the word ‘modesty.’ Research shows that this generation of consumers, do not spend time watching ads (They stream programmes and use adblock) They are not interested in being sold to and prefer to rely on recommendations from friends and others on social media. The use of social media outlets forms a part of the consumer behavior model.

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Fig will be releasing a Vine on social media to hint about the brand and whet peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appetite. The aim is to make it interesting enough to get onto Vineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s featured page where it would be shown for a day, which would be free advertising with a minimum of 40,000 viewers.