Modesty 1
CONTENTS
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INTRODUCTION
SECONDARY RESEARCH
PRIMARY RESEARCH
THE MARKET
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CONTENTS
THE BIG IDEA
ROUTE TO CONSUMER
REFERENCES
APPENDIX
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7491 92131 132157 158256
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Intro
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Modest Style
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Fig 1. Modest street style (2016)
‘Fashion is having a love affair with covering up that goes way beyond just the faithful.’ (Marisa Melzer, Journalist, 2016) This report will discuss and examine the topic of modesty in relation to fashion. The objectives are to understand the modest consumer’s needs, address them and to challenge social perceptions towards modesty in the media and fashion industry. Modesty in relation to fashion is a complex subject, encompassing different religious and cultural requirements and values, which after investigation, will give insight into the way the modest market is today with regards to fashion retail purchasing. Modesty has always been a way of dressing in certain cultures and religions, but is now also becoming part of the fashion landscape and adopted by mainstream women, who for many reasons want to be more covered up.
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New interest in modest fashion is opening up the world of fashion to religious groups, who have previously been an overlooked sector of the consumer market (Janmohamed, 2016). Forbes, Sales and Marketing analysts predicted in 2013
‘The next big untapped market would be Muslim women.’ Interest in modest fashion has been growing steadily in recent years, reaching a peak in 2015, with the rise of religious fashion bloggers. It is now becoming an established and emulated trend. Amidst all the negative hype surrounding the wearing of hijabs, a group of young Muslim women made a video in 2014 called
‘I think there is a quietness in it which is interesting’
Mipsterz (Muslim meets hipster) which went viral immediately. ‘They’re media savvy, ultra chic and have thousands
of Instagram followers but the new muslim icons also have a cool way with the hijab’ (Ismat Sarah Mangla, 2015). Modest women are ‘a part of an emergent cross-
faith transnational youth subculture of modest fashion.’ (Lewis,2015)
In 2015, aware of the interest and untapped
consumer buying power, a number of fashion brands featured Islamic wear among their collections, aimed to coincide with Ramadan. One example of a specific collection for Ramadan was by the New York based fashion label DKNY. ‘Tapping into the general euphoric spirit of Ramadan.’ (Vogue, 2015)
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(Goldman 2015)
The trickle down effect is now visible in the high street, however, there is clearly still a demand for young fashionable modest clothing which is currently not being met by the fashion industry and the reasons for this will be investigated. The generation of young modest women living in 2016 are having to negotiate the different contradictory influences between their faith community and the young style community. (Balasescu, a. (2003) These women are religious and modest but at the
same time want to live a modern life and not be excluded from online activity, which for their generation, has become a way of life. Finding ways to resolve this dichotomy is at the heart of this investigation. The ‘Muslim futurists’, as they have become known as, live life in a way which they see fit to stay faithful, combined with a modern life style. This group of people have openly discussed their desires to be ‘fashion-forward’, whilst simultaniously meeting their religious needs (Janmohamed, 2016).
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Adam and Eve
Anglo Saxon 800
Norman 1100
Medieval 1300
Modest
Modest 2016
Yuppy 1980
Hippie 1970
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Casual 1960
Elizabethan 1500
Tudor 1600
Georgian 1750
Leg O Mutton 1830
timeline
Glamour 1940
Silhouette 1920
Victorian 1900
Crinoline 1860
Fig 2. Modest fashion timeline (2016)
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Secondary Research
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ORIGINS
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Fig 3. Adam and Eve (2013)
‘WE HAVE BESTOWED RAIMENT UPON YOU TO COVER YOUR SHAME, AS WELL AS TO BE AN ADORNMENT TO YOU. BUT THE RAIMENT OF RIGHTEOUSNESS THAT IS THE BEST’ (Surah 7:26) ‘YOUR BODIES ARE THE TEMPLE OF THE HOLY SPIRIT WHO IS IN YOU, WHOM YOU HAVE FROM GOD AND THAT YOU ARE NOT ON YOUR OWN FOR YOU HAVE BEEN BOUGHT AT A GREAT PRICE. GLORIFY AND CARRY GOD’S BODY.’ (Thomas, 1899) ‘THERE IS AN OVERRIDING ASSUMPTION THAT NAKEDNESS IS ASSOCIATED WITH SHAMENESS.’ (Thomas, 1899)
Modesty is a part of cultural history and is very closely aligned to the creation of organised religions. Quotes from the Holy texts identify the meaning of modesty in relation to the prime religions, although there is no one theory for all faiths of the origin of modesty.
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Religion
Definition • •
Christian
Islamic
Jewish
Amish
Dress to please God No law laid down but encouraged to dress bearing in mind the doctrine of St Paul Should not flaunt body to the opposite sex Dress in a way that reflects inner modesty Not dress provocatively Dress appropriately in context
• • • •
• • • • • •
Honour Allah Only show body and hair to husband Appear graceful Clothes must not emphasize body shape Very religios Muslim women only show hands and feet Tzniut is the term used to mean your identity equals your inner self
• • • •
Dress to please God Only show body and hair to husband Should not flaunt body Tzniut is the term used to mean your identity equals your inner self (likewise to muslims)
• • • • • •
Dress modestly to please God Simplicity is key in style and fabric Not to draw attention to self, everyone should be equal Observant women wear uniform dress Heads should be covered Not attract attention from opposite sex
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Text
Quote
‘The outward ornaments of the body should be consistent with the appropriate inward ornaments of the heart, the quiet spirit and the benevolent deeds’
‘Our clothes don’t need to scream Christian, but they should quietly say modest, appropriate and carefully chosen’
Peter and Paul ‘I also want the women to dress modestly, with decency and propriety, adorning themselves’
The Christian Working Woman
Timothy 2:10
‘Modesty is a part of faith, and that part of faith must lie in the heart’ Prophet, Mohammed
‘I’d like to think I’ve found a balance between what my religion asks of me and how I choose to create my own style’ Lubna Hassan (blogger) ‘I love following trends but I never sacrifice my values for them’ Maryam Asadullah
‘Man looks at the outer appearance but God looks at the heart’ Samuel 16:7
‘Your beauty should not consist of outward things like elaborate hair styles and the wearing of gold ornaments or fine clothes. Instead, it should consist of what is inside the heart with a gentle and kind spirit’ Peter 3:3
‘The basics of modesty may seem restrictive but really the options are infinite’ Talya Bendell (fashion sales)
‘Modesty is about presenting yourself with a sort of class and beauty that commands respect and allows others to see you for who you are’ Yoneat Green (student) ‘We have a responsibility to men to help them not lust but that does not mean every inch of skin needs to be covered’ Natasha (blogger) ‘We don’t dress different just to be different, we dress different because we want to represent modesty’ Anna (blogger)
Fig 4. Religon chart 1 (2016)
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Key Insights Through secondary research into various religions, key insights were identified to highlight the importance of modest dressing across many religions.
•
The importance of clothing as an expression of faith and humility is paramount across various religions.
•
‘Tzniut’, the word used to describe the meaning of modesty, is the same in Jewish and Muslim religions showing a historic link between both faiths.
•
The quotes demonstrate an acceptance and respect for the rules of dressing in an understated fashion but with some allowances for individuality.
Research has shown that most people who choose to dress modestly in this country are observant Jews, Muslims and Christians for whom the prime reason is to cover flesh. Within these religions, there are different opinions as to how much flesh should be covered up and under which garments. Modesty means different things to different people but to most people who dress modestly for religious reasons, it is about respecting your body, which in many religions is viewed as sacred. It is also about dressing for self worth and reserving ones beauty for within marriage, but primarily for the glory of God.
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Rules and regulations for religious women
• • • • • • •
Whole arm covered Neck covered Trousers Sandals Heels Jewellery No provocative clothing
• •
• •
Elbows covered Collar bone covered
• •
Trousers sandals Crop tops if meet waist line
• • • • • •
• • • •
Not too bright (especially no red) No bare legs No slits in skirts No trousers
•
No linen/wool mix
Strapless OK with t-shirt under modest neckline
No halter necks No strapless High waistline Skirt max 2 inches above the knee Simple Jewellery Any colours
Fig 5. Venn diagram (2016)
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Fig 6. Muslim woman wearing makeup (2015)
Is it Modest? There are different levels of modesty within
Displays of wealth through dress are accepted
religions and much depends upon which country
even in the stricted religious communities,
you live in as to how it is enforced. In Iran and Saudi
as modesty does not necessarily mean being
Arabia, despite Sharia law, some women appear
dowdy or plain. Wearing makeup, painting nails
physically and financially ostentatious while being
and wearing fashion shoes is all a part of ‘being
almost entirely concealed by their clothing. (Laver,
a woman’ and as long as she is covered and not
J 1969) Are these Muslim women flaunting the
overtly sexual, a woman can call herself modest.
rules of modesty in order to still look feminine and
Due to the personal nature of modesty, modest
attractive?
clothing, and beliefs, it is hard to measure the
Is their desire to be attractive more important to
extent to which a person is modest. (Ismat,
them than their religious doctrines and wishes of
2015)
their husbands?
It
It could be argued, that wearing heavy makeup
made up or fashionable religious women are
is contradictory to wearing a head covering or other religious clothes to cover the body. One is designed to make the wearer more glamorous while the other is intended to make her more plain. Following a ‘thread’ on Ummah (online muslim community), opinions were mixed on this but most people agreed that using makeup in moderation was acceptable as part of a woman’s normal grooming routine to make her feel good
therefore could be argued, that overly
not modest enough. However, some small allowances permit them to live their lives in accordance with their religious beliefs and those of their family, and still express their individuality. The insight gained from this is that there is plenty of scope for fashion to manifest itself in the modesty market, for example creating ranges of accessories, hijabs shoes, bags jewelry to co-ordinate with outfits.
about herself (Ummah, 2016).
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The lure of the label
•
Wearing items with designer labels could be a status symbol
•
Some women like the classic timeless heritage look which compliments their outfits
•
Adds definition and a touch of class
•
Peer pressure to conform so they are simply trying to fit in and not appear conspicuously poor in countries that are predominately wealthy
•
Keeping their dignity by the unspoken declaration of being part of a wealthy family or community
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Because their bodies are mostly covered, accessorizing with bags, heels etc. allows a small opening for self expression
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‘O CHILDREN OF ADAM, YOU SHALL BE CLEAN AND DRESS NICELY WHEN YOU GO TO THE MASJID BUT YOU WILL BE ADORNED THEREIN WITH BRACELETS OF GOLD, YOU WILL WEAR CLOTHES OF GREEN SILK’ (Koran: 731)
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Religon
Christian
Attitudes to fashion
Many young Christians enjoy dressing fashionably. Generation Ceder, a Christian website, has an extremely long comments discussion thread, which shows that fashion is a hot topic.
‘Modesty is a lifestyle not a passing trend. Something they are committed to for life’ (Roshan Isaacs, Islamic fashion and design council)
Islamic
‘Fashion and dressing modestly are not mutually exclusive’ (Sobia Masood, Blogger)
‘I see my generation adapting with the times. Recently, I have noticed orthodox women dressing more fashionably (Talya Bendel, fashion sales)
Jewish
‘Fashion meeting modesty is allowing Jewish women to feel more part of the secular world’ (Elisheva Rishon, fashion blogger)
Observant Amish women will wear a standard uniform and will not deviate
Amish
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Adjustment to contemporary society •
Attitudes to social media
Christians are not allowed to draw attention to themselves but can wear small pieces of jewellery and are allowed to pierce one ear Christians can follow new styles as long as it is not too revealing. Young modest Christians dress mosty in mainstream fashion clothing
•
Christians make wide use of technology, including using the internet for blogging and social media.
•
Orthodox Muslims generally wear dark clothes and don’t pay heed to fashion. Most wear hijabs but these days many have adapted it as a fashion accessory as well as a religious garment
•
Young Muslim women are as technically minded as their non-religious counterparts, using social media and smartphones as the main methods of communication.
•
There is a new wave of younger muslim women who are mixing generic brands with their own items of clothing
•
•
Wearing makeup, painting nails and wearing jewellery, high heels and expensive bags is a common practice amongst some Muslim women
There are many blogging sites on fashion for example Maryam Asadullah (online shop and blogger has more than 1000 Instagram followers)
• •
•
‘I love following trends but never sacrifice my values for them’
Orthodox Jewish women do not make any concessions to fashion. They wear dark clothes, mostly black. Less religious younger women choose items from mainstream fashion and adapt them to conform to modesty laws
•
Young women adapt fashion clothing and now are creating their own style, which is influencing mainstream fashion
•
Young women wear some makeup but more attention is paid to hair styles
•
Bags, shoes and jewellery are usually fairly modest
•
Amish like to keep themselves seperate but not exclusive. Dressing distinctively is a way of ensuring this. They do not wear makeup or cut their hair. They do not use accessories. They do not drive or have any electronics.
• • • • • •
Social media particularly Instagram is inspiring bloggers Religious Jews don’t use the internet at all Some orthodox only go on certain legitimate websites, so they will not encounter undesirable content Young women use the internet widely but discerningly. They use mobile phones as much as anyone else and go on blogging sites Some consider shopping online as a social activity with friends They don’t own modern technology as they do not want to be ‘wired-up’ to the world, or influenced by western values and to preserve their unique way of life
Fig 7. Religion chart 2 (2016)
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Key Insights Insights after completing spreadsheet 2 (see above): •
Only certain women from certain religions are really involved in this debate on style. Other categories of
•
The way the women find a relationship to style is different from each other for instance Muslim women tend
women are not interested in fashion and therefore would not be included in any research.
to use makeup to look attractive and paint their nails, whereas Jewish women are more likely to use hair to enhance their looks.
•
Non-religious Christian, Jewish and Muslim women will be the potential consumer base for research.
•
The three religions have no restrictions regarding accessories or make up even though the holy texts do advocate
•
Although it is usual to wear understated garments, low heeled shoes and little or no make up, these customs are
not spending attention to outward appearances.
passed down and not everyone adheres to them. The key point here being that one’s beauty should be saved for one’s husband.
•
In order to ensure they are not flaunting themselves to the opposite sex, religious Jewish, married women wear wigs so that only their husbands can see their own hair. Originally, these wigs or ‘sheitels’ were very unflattering and starched but these days, especially among younger women, the wigs are more lush and glamorous than their normal hair.
•
Ironically, it would seem to defy the purpose as their own hair, hidden from light and flattened is probably not
attractive at all to their husbands whereas their wigs probably makes them attractive to everyone who meets them.There is much debate regarding this topic in the Jewish religion, however modern orthodox women believe that it is down to themselves and their husband to do as they see fit.
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External It is rare to find a religious Jewish woman of any generation who is married and who does not cover her hair which shows a complete acceptance of this important doctrine. The fact that this law has been compromised to fit into modern times by allowing wigs to be realistic and stylish has helped prolong its observance. ‘It is a feature of Judaism to adapt and make changes to external
appearance in order to blend in to which ever country of community they moved into.’
(Rebetzen Ilana Epstein, Rabbi’s wife 2016)
Fig 8. Jewish woman wig shopping (2016)
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‘IDENTIFYING YOUR BRAND ARCHETYPE WILL SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY AND CONNECT YOU INSTANTLY TO YOUR AUDIENCE.’ (Sparkol, 2015)
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Consumer archetypes (faith) Women who are religious but not ultra - they are allowed personal expression. Within this group there are: Creative women who make their own clothes Women who to use clothing to show off the brand Women who use clothing to make themselves look more attractive Women who want to dress modestly as it is in fashion Women who want to use dress to identify with their faith
Consumer archetypes (non-faith) Women who are not religious but wish to dress modestly for other reasons. Within this group there are: Older women and wish to conceal parts of their body Overweight women who want loose fitting clothes Women who want to dress more comfortably Women who want to protect themselves from strong sunlight Women who want to dress modestly as it is in fashion Fig 9. Consumer archetypes (2016)
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Modesty Today Up untill the 14th Century, clothing was considered to be a fundamental procedure to cover the body. ‘It was the second half
of the fourteenth Century that clothes
for both men and women took on new
forms, and something emerges which we can already call fashion.’ (Laver,
J 2002, p 62) This marks the invention of
fashion and was the first sign of women pushing the boundaries and realizing the power of their bodies. Being a woman of any religion in 2016, and trying to keep up with modest traditions and laws, is more difficult now than ever. (Mathis, C, Haris R and Gorton, T (2015) There are so many more distractions with the internet and social media sites such as Facebook and Twitter. Peer pressure makes it hard for any young woman to avoid getting caught up, for example, sending pictures for millions of people to see would seem to be immodest
‘Thanks to social media, these women are able to connect through their mutual respect for religion and love for fashion inspiring other women to do the same’
behaviour to older generations, however it is acceptable to the younger generation of women. (Meltzer, M. 2015)
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(Business Insider, 2015)
Exposing themselves via the internet to the entire world could make them vulnerable to abuse and criticism from those who judge them as victims of male oppression. (Read J,
2003) However, social media has enhanced their shopping experiences and made it easier to find suitable clothing, (Business Insider
UK Sept 2015). This is proof that there can be a solution for the modest modern woman today. However, there are limited sites and platforms for this type of consumer in the 21st Century. (Tariq, B 2014)
Fig 10. Girl using social media illustration (2016)
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Contributory factors regarding the growing popularity of the modest style and trend: •
The increase in the number of Muslims in the UK: approximately 3 million (Muslim Council , 2015)
•
The rise in popularity of young people returning to their religious roots (Telegraph, 2016)
•
A backlash against the very immodest clothing that began in the 1960’s and reached a peak in the last 20 years (F T, Ruby 2006)
•
Celebrities setting the trend (possibly as an escape from the media who are obsessed with scrutinizing and criticizing women’s bodies.)
There are other current conflicting trends at the other end of the scale to modesty, such as the very brash and openly sexual statements being made by influential celebrities like Beyonce, Miley Cyrus and Kim Kardashian. These are just some of the
‘Immodesty is a behaviour situation that contrasts sharply with those to which a person has been intensely habituated.’
very infulential names in 2016. ‘These celebrities are a ‘new religon’
with their own subgroups.’ (charismanews,
2015) However, by pushing the boundaries to the extreme, these celebrities are helping to drive the modesty trend, as some secular women are becoming modest as a reaction to the hyper sexual environment they find themselves in. Celebrities are also involved in this debate wearing more modest designer clothing. Emma Watson, an advocate for modesty and feminism quoted ‘The less you reveal, the more people wonder’.
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(Laver, 1959, P. 10)
Fig 11. Miley Cyrus (2016)
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Modesty Role Models
Fig 12. Kate Middleton (2014)
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Worldwide following
•
Outfits showcased on her style blog
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Her modest wedding dress inspired millions of designers and brides all over the world (Marie Claire, 2015).
•
Debbie Shatzkes, a 29 year old blogger describes her as ‘the gold standard of modesty’. 34
Fig 13. Mayim Bialik (2015)
Fig 14. Olsen twins (2016)
Famous Jewish Orthodox actress Mayim Bialik often photographed on the red carpet in different modest dresses, which she reviews on her blog. Fashion award-winning Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have been photographed wearing relatively modest clothing over the past year, which has boosted their sales (Guardian, 2015)
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2015
JANUARY FEBRUARY MARCH
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The beauty and diversity of of Muslim life (Ted Talks)
• •
Modesty catwalk show at Washington DC Fashion week Christian Fashion week USA
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Modest fashion awards
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BBC programme: The Muslim Beauty Pageant and me
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The Art of Modesty show
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BBC: Muslim designers mix hijab with latest fashion
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Christian fashion week UK
APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUGUST 36
2016
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Muslim-American fashion modesty identity show
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Inayah Hijab Popup store launch
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International modest fashion week, Istanbul
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Saverah women expo
• •
Modest fashion week, Kuala Lumpar BBC Radio 1: High Street Hijabs
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IMDF Festival, South America
• •
Islamic fashion week Muslim lifestyle Exhibiton UK
•
Faith Fashion Fusion show, Canberra Australia Fig 15. Cultural Calendar (2016)
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The BBC broadcast a feature on religious Muslim designers
who participate in mainstream fashion called ‘Muslim designers mix hijab with latest fashion’.
‘The Muslim beauty pageant and me’ was also aired in May
2015 on BBC which revolved around Dina Torkia who has a huge showcasing for her modest blog.
Tom Rowley of the Telegraph in his review, queried how
female modesty can find a place in the glitzy irreverent world of the beauty pageant.
Insights gained from the Cultural Calendar: •
There is a rising interest in Islamic designers .
•
The media and events are driving the modesty trend
•
There is very little event coverage for modesty that isn’t
•
Interest in modest fashion is worldwide.
forward.
connected to Muslim fashion.
‘BBC 3 allowed the 25 year old to base the entire programme around not only her attempt to win the contest, but a wider life story. Even her clothing line was given a plug.’ (Rowley, The Telegraph, 2015)
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Fig 16. Dina Torkia (2015)
Modesty Offshoot As well as the people who dress modestly for
The danger with commercializing the trend in
faith or self respect, there are others to whom
this way is that it can make it into a temporary
modesty is the new ‘sexy’. (Julie, P 2015)
fashion trend that could disappear next year and
This is contradictory but at the same time
be replaced by something new. This is contrary
understandable as until recently it has generally
to some experts predictions. ‘Modest fashion
been considered that ‘less is more’. Consumers who are buying into the look in order to seem classy and sexy are also driving the trend. Fashion boutiques and websites with names like ‘Sexy Modest’ and ‘Modest is Hottest’ are endorsing covering up but in a commercial and suggestive way.
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has sparked a global movement that’s here to stay.’ (Khan, A founder and chairman of Islamic Fashion and Design Council, 2016)
Fig 17. Modesty t-shirt (2016)
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Primary Research
Focus Group Responses
‘Covered yet well worn’ ‘Conceals the body but looks nice’ ‘I want to make it accessible and fashionable to be modest’ ‘I find the same style in every store. It is hard to be inspired by modest bloggers without copying’
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‘Fashion alongside religion’ ‘If my husband doesn’t think it’s modest, it isn’t’ ‘I don’t want to just cover my body, I want to look good’ ‘I want to cover up without looking frumpy’ ‘I am not modest for religious reasons but for my body type, they do offer curve sections but I find it ill fitting’
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QUESTIONNAIRE A questionnaire was posted to modest fashion bloggers and potential customers (see appendix). The aim of this was to find out more about the consumer in preparation for follow up questions in a focus group.
Majority prefer to shop online - spent up to £30 fortnightly Difficulty finding clothes on the high street Not everyone has the freedom to make choices Influenced mainly by modest celebrities Being fashionable is desirable but in keeping with faith
STREET INTERVIEWS Street interviews were conducted in a multicultural area of North London, asking people what the word ‘modest’ meant to them.
Answers were diverse due to the mixed demographic of neighbourhood In general, younger women spoke more about fashion Not everyone (particularly older women) has the freedom to make choices
Fig 18. Key insight table (2016)
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Fig 19. Modest girls interviewed (2016)
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Fig 20. Melanie Elturk (2015)
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Melanie Elturk Interviewing Melanie Elturk, the co owner of Haute
‘The outcomes of research are propositional and offer potential visual solutions to as yet undefined needs.’
Hijab, (UK hijab modest fashion website) provided good insight into the modest fashion market and confirmed previously held hints of a gap in the market (see appendix). ‘I think there is an assumption that Islamic and
modest women in general don’t care about fashion which is of course untrue. I think there is a huge gap in the market.’
Rabbis wife and Mormon Two women were interviewed separately; •
A Rabbi’s wife who is a clothing historian and who’s lectures provided useful background information (see appendix).
•
A member of the local Mormon community
Insight gained: The relationship between religion and fashion is really the preoccupation of the younger generation. The baby boomer generation and Generation X will not be target consumers. The research shows that although many older women like to look stylish and chic, demand is higher for younger women to be included in the fashion landscape.
(Visual Research, 2016)
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Shopping expedition A shopping expedition with three modest women was arranged. This was useful qualitive research as it was possible to ask questions and observe the shopping behaviours of potential consumers. The insight gained, showed the diffculty in finding modest clothing with ease. The shopping trip lasted over 8 hours, which shows the sheer struggle for these consumers and the large gap in the market. Empathetic research was conducted with the researcher and three friends who do not normally dress modestly. The participants spent the day shopping dressed in modest clothing (see Primary
research: appendix). Recording the feelings that this experience generated provided an insight into the modest woman’s lifestyle helping to define the target consumer and strengthening suspicions that there is a gap in the market for fashionable modest clothing.
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Focus group A focus group was held with five modest girls of Generation Y from different religious backgrounds and also those of no particular faith. •
Most took inspiration from modest bloggers
•
Modest websites too prescriptive to particular faiths instead of general modesty
•
Modest fashion in shops mostly old fashioned, basic and difficult to negotiate
•
Majority were on line shoppers
•
Use social media sites and magazines for looking at what people are wearing
•
Would welcome an easier buying experience
Insight gained from these discussions was: •
The difficulty they had in finding fashionable modest clothing which is also not addressed in magazines, store displays or mannequins.
•
There is a strong hint here that these women are being under-represented.
•
It transpired that they spend a lot of time shopping at a variety of online sites because it is quicker than pacing round the shops, trying to pair the appropriate garments but they would prefer to try on clothes.
•
All were enthusiastic about the idea of a concession or online boutique.
•
There was a genuine enthusiasm and excitement from the group about the prospect of something new coming along that would understand their needs.
•
It was apparent that some of these young women have evolved a modest trend of their own. By making use of what outfits were available to them, and adapting them to make them more modest, for example; teaming a long sleeved t-shirt under a strapless dress or layering a petticoat to add length to a skirt.
•
The need for them to be resourceful is a direct result of stores ‘not speaking their language.’ The outcome is that a new street look has emerged which is influencing the fashion world who are beginning to listen to them. ‘My modesty does not prevent me from buying fashion-forward clothing. On the contrary, it is the reason I have a unique sense of style.’ (Honig, M, Vogue, 2016)
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Fig 21. Harajuku girls (2014)
Looking into other cultures that practice modesty, a visit to Japan sparked off an interest in ethnography and in Japanese fashion, especially as their whole ethos has always been traditionally very modest. Although some of the Harajuko girls looked quite outrageous, many were still keeping to the rules of modesty. Insight gained is that modesty appears to be deeply embedded in many cultures. (Laver J, 2002)
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The Market
‘The female muslim consumer has arrived. Beneath the stereotypes and political narratives is a consumer segment that is crying out for brands to reach out to them. Modest women are waiting to be recognised, served and reflected on the high street’ (Janmohamed, 2016)
‘For them, faith, progress and modernity are not antithetical. They are inseparable. They want and expect it all.’ (Robinson, 2015)
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It would seem from secondary and primary research that a gap in the market exists for a modest clothing concession within larger stores. Indications are that it could be a very popular solution. However, reasons as to why that service is not already in place needs to be investigated.
One reason why high street brands are not stocking ‘modest’ clothing collections may stem from a lack of understanding of the potential size of the market. However, experts predict the modest clothing market could be worth ÂŁ100m a year in the UK alone (Daily Mail 2015).
In 2014, Islamic modest fashion sector expenditure reached $230 billion worldwide and will be worth $327 billion by 2020 (Arabian Business.com 2015).
Another reason they are unlikely to want to sign post an exclusively modest range is because they would not wish to be caught up in the controversy surrounding modest clothing versus oppression argument.
Barjis Chohan, fashion designer suspects that if stores stocked a range of Muslim style clothing, they would be in danger of making the Muslim community feel set apart. (High street hijabs, 2015)
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POSITIVES
NEGATIVES
It was featured immediately in many notable editorials such as Vogue, Elle, Time and Bazaar as well as the
Although there was huge interest, the collection did not meet with everyone’s approval. The main reason for failures
national ant inernational press.
within this collection is the brand’s lack of understanding
‘D&G ‘s embellished hijabs and abayas are great
Some thought that hijabs should not be used as a fashion
follow suit? (Vogue) The collection has already
order to please Allah. Others thought it was a marketing ploy
(Refinery29, 2016)
news for Muslim women - when will other brands
statement as they are really intended to cover women in
recieved a huge positive response from fans
to appeal to rich consumers at Ramadan. (Harris, R 2016)
online’ (Daily Mail, 2016)
D&G have given Muslim women a visible presence in the world of high fashion but as yet, it is only wealthy women who can enjoy this breakthrough due to the very high prices of these luxury brands. (El-yacoubi, h 2016) Following the trend of D&G, Zara and H&M have both featured a hijab-wearing model. H&M’s recycling project used the model Idrissi wearing a hijab in their groundbreaking video. (Marini F, 2016)
‘Many Muslim women have expressed that these collections have missed the mark’. Popular fashion brand
Mango followed this trend. However, their collection has been called inappropriate and disappointing (Refinery29, 2016) ‘ I am not suprised that there might be some backlash from those claiming that the high fashion hijabs are
immodest or counter to the religious messages. To those people, I say that luckily they have plenty of other choices, and choice is the most important thing’ (Jade, D&G Selfridges, Assistant manager) Fig 22. Positives/Negatives D&G chart (2016)
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On 3rd January 2016, Style.com/Arabia announced the launch of a range of clothing by Dolce & Gabbana. It was aimed at the Muslim market, and used D&G’s own distinctive style whilst incorporating the colours/trends/themes of their general spring/summer 2016 collection. The hijabs and abayas were featured in a 20 page lookbook. The launch of Dolce and Gabbana’s new range sent the fashion world ‘into a spin’ and sparked an enormous amount of interest (Arbor, 2016). The insight gained from this is that modesty is definitely making its mark and highlights a growing need for modest clothing in the modern day. D&G is an example of a brand that is adapting to people’s lifestyles and cultures.
Case study
This new range is doing a lot to promote Islam in a good light and yet it was only in 2012 that D&G released a collection using white models wearing ‘black women’s faces as earrings and clothes inspired by the racist depictions of black moors in the 13th-century.’ (The Guardian, 2016) This poses the question about whether their motives were driven by ethnic equality or more by opportunism regarding Muslim spending power. (Haris, 2016). Another insight gained, focuses on bloggers and tweets post collection. Those who were feeling diffident are now beginning to feel more empowered (Beckyearley. com 2015). It is clear that attitudes are changing perhaps due to the famous brands accepting and influencing fashion critics. Once again, this is clear evidence that the modest market is ready. With more and more young women and teenagers wearing hijabs, there is a strong hint that there is a whole generation still to be targeted who remain largely under-estimated and unreached. Although less revealing options are not targeted exclusively towards Muslim women, sales are likely to be boosted by Muslim customers (ibtimes newspaper). For retailers that capitalize on this emerging market effectively at an early stage, Muslim fashion will represent an important additional generator of sales’ (Cathy Benson, journalist)
Fig 23. D&G Case study
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On the Uniqlo website, there are online tutorials by Dina Torkio called ‘hijab wearing made easy with unique styles’ Mostly colour blocking Classic with a twist
Sits well with the main collection
Collection tweets
showing the hype
Soft quality fabrics drape well Emphasis on easy comfortable non - fussy styling Temporarily out of stock due to high demand. There Ethnic feel
are more products coming soon - this could be a promotion
tool
(Uniqlo,
2016) Fig 24. Uniqlo modest collection (2016)
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The
Japanese
fashion
‘We cater to ladies who embrace modest fashion as well as being carefully designed to suit contemporary tastes’
brand
‘Uniqlo’ is an example of moving the trend forward by selling hijabs and very recently launched a collection of ‘modest wear’ made in collaboration with the Muslim designer Hana Tajima (Dazed Digital - March 2016).
(Taku Morikawa, Chief executive of Uniqlo, Singapore, 2015)
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The online fashion brand ‘Mimu Maxi’ was founded
by two Jewish orthodox women, yet their customers are from many different faiths. The designs are minimalistic, bold and unusual enough to be featured in Vogue, Fashionista and Marie Claire.
In terms of garments, swimwear has been impacted and the 2015 collections were a lot more modest
than the previous year (The global rise of modest swimwear, Modestsea 2015). Research showed
that modest swimming costumes were the most
impacted, hitting the early majority (Decent exposure, Jessica Ray 2015, Riviera Style exhibition 2015).
In 2016, Marks and Spencer launched their first burkini, causing controversy in the media.
‘For £49.50 the retailer promises you can cover your whole body with the exception of the face, hands and feet, without compromising style.’ (Pearson, 2016)
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Fig 25. Modest swimwear (2016)
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Heavy religious focused
Inevested in social media
Underinvested in social media
Light religious focused
Fig 26: Perceptual map 1 (2016)
The Perceptual Map of specific modest clothing brands that are
whole fashion spectrum was covered. The luxury designers most
currently on the market helped to compare the differences and
empathetic to the modesty trend were, DKNY, Lanvin, Gucci, Net
showed that the majority of them focus on one religion. The
a Porter and D&G (the latter two, even produced collections to
other insight gained was that many of these brands did not have
coincide with Ramadan).
an established social media presence.
Luxury brands that are creating immodest styles are Versace,
Another perceptual map was completed with high end and
Givenchy, Calvin Klein. Moving down the design spectrum,
high street brands, offering modesty so as to ensure that the
Olsen twins, Mary Kate and Ashley are producing quite modest 64
On trend
Inevested in social media
Underinvested in social media
Laggards Fig 27. Perceptual map 2 (2016)
collections. The high street and high end modest trend
fashion shops exist but they are generally old fashioned and
promoters are shops such as Zara, Oasis, Mango and Next.
do not appeal to people who want to dress modestly and
Examples of immodest shops are Top Shop, American Apparel
fashionably.
and River Island. Comparing these, one can see that as expected, the high street brands are much less modest than the designer brands which is a hint that the trickle down effect is diluting the message. In addition, some independently owned modest 65
POLITICAL There is much controversy in terms of religious clothing. France and Belgium, backed by the European Court of Human Rights, upheld the banning of the hijab (full face veil) in 2014 and other obvious religious symbols in schools and public places. No such general ban applies in the UK, but institutions do have discretion to impose their own dress codes. In 2013, teaching staff at a school in Derby were told they had to cover their heads or leave the school (Telegraph, 2013). The way in which modest clothing brands choose to market themselves, should therefore take into consideration the political climate with regards to the chosen marketplace. A UK modest brand choosing to expand into other less liberal countries need to be aware that they may face political barriers.
POLITICAL 66
ECONOMIC Current economic figures show that the UK economy is growing steadily, with falling unemployment, low inflation, and consumer spending being one of the driving forces of the UK recovery (Financial Times, 2016). Moreover, a rise in employment in young Muslim women is a positive factor as this indicates they will have more disposable income, in turn allowing themselves the opportunity to spend more on personal shopping and clothing (Ogilvy Noor, 2016). This is of great importance as the rise in spending by Muslim women in 2016 indicates that it is a good time to launch more modest clothing campaigns.
ECONOMIC 67
SOCIAL Interpretations of a Koranic verse (An-Nur chapter 24, verse 30) advocating modesty and espousing appropriate female attire have long restricted what many Muslim women can wear. Today, experts say things are changing and increasing numbers of Muslim women want to dress fashionably and express their individuality through clothing (Ogilvy Noor 2016). ‘It is
part of a bigger social movement in terms of the empowerment of women within the Muslim community.’ (Sarah Elenany, a British Muslim designer.)
Some women are having to curb their rights to self –expression because they are being dominated by the male members of their family and their community for fear of attracting other male interest. (H, Robinson 2015) This could be seen as anti-feminist and backward, but to some women dressing to please their husband is an acceptable request that they feel offers them some security and protection. One woman in a focus group comfortably stated ‘If my husband doesn’t think it’s modest, it’s not modest.’
This is a controversial and highly sensitive subject where people may be easily offended and angered by what they see as a lack of modesty (this can come from women as well as men). There does not appear to be any anti-modest blogging sites or journalistic articles which would indicate that there is no significant backlash at the present time.
SOCIAL 68
SOCIAL Culture within religion plays a huge part, it is vital that both cultural, traditional and religious beliefs are respected in all aspects of dress and general life. The various collections aimed at ‘Ramadan Fashion’ have crossed lines and caused controversy and criticism in the public eye. Collections by Mango, D&G, DKNY and H&M have been criticised for their lack of awareness regarding the festival Ramadan. During this time, Muslim men and women spend time fasting and partaking in more prayer and charity activity than normal (Refinery29, 2016). By neglecting to research this prior to launching these campaigns, the fashion industry is ignoring the cultural and spiritual elements of the festivals. (Dhakatribune, 2015)
A friar, Bernardo Finelli in 1983, interviewed people about why they were abandoning religious dress and found a common response was ‘We can better approach people when we are like them; we will not offend people who are not of our faith.’ (OpenBible, 2009) With more women joining the modest ’bandwagon’ the boundaries in dress codes will become more blurred and help defeat prejudiced attitudes such as those who feel everyone should be fitting in with the “British’ style of dressing. The term ‘modesty’ itself is very fluid and subject to social, cultural and geographical location.
SOCIAL 69
TECHNOLOGICAL Technology is a key factor in both influencing trends and marketing new products and services. (The Atlantic, 2015) This is relevant to all consumers as the rise of social media makes it easier for consumers to access anything from across the world. In the past, religious modest women would be influenced by their family and local magazines. Now, they use the internet to look at what celebrities are wearing, and they are influenced by social media such as blogging sites, Facebook,Twitter and Instagram.‘Social media is a saviour not a nemesis, an asset not a liability, a time saver not a time killer’ (Gass M, 2011).
Instagram is key to the rise in technology, particularly for the Muslim consumer. The ‘Chic Hijab’ is not an uncommon phrase amongst the Muslim consumer in the 21st Century (Janmohamed, 2016). Marayum Asadullah, is one of Instagram’s first famous Muslim fashion icons. Through the use of her social media account, she is able to influence the fashion of other modest fashion followers in 2015. ‘I’ve always been a girl known to dress myself well and be a ‘stylish hijab.’ Asadullah initially created a private account, but it quickly led to being a popular blog with
a fan base. In 2015 the Instagram account was well-know across hijabi fashion on Instagram with over 100,000 followers from around the world, over 10,000 likes per post and numerous comments regarding the source of her outfits (International Business Times, 2015). This is an example of how technology is very influential in driving the trend.
TECHNOLOGICAL 70
ENVIRONMENT
The trend could be adversely affected by use of unacceptable practices that are sometimes found in the manufacturing industry in third world countries such as India, and Bangladesh with poor working conditions and under-age workers. (WGSN, 2015) A recent report by labour rights NGO India found that workers at factories that make clothes for H&M and others, live and work in near-slavery conditions, with 50% of factories lacking any fire safety measures. Publicity such as this could be damaging to the trend.
ENVIRONMENT 71
LEGAL With the EU referendum looming in the UK, the legal requirements to enter and exit the country may be altered. If the UK chooses to exit the EU, there is likely to be a decrease in the number of immigrants and therefore different ethnicities and religions entering the country. With the topic of immigration causing a stir in the country, it is likely that both consumers and businesses will be cautious about what is appropriate to buy and sell at this time. By having a religion focused product, the company may be taking a risk that could affect both brand image and sales. Modest clothing can however be marketed to a variety of people and not just those who are religious, relieving the prospect of having a negative image. (Prophet.com, 2015) Another consideration if the UK splits from the EU, will be the ending of free trade of goods and services across borders. This is likely to increase costs and will affect the entire industry. With any possible outcome from this trend, there will be financial, strategic & operational risks and legal factors to consider. The service will have to abide by the health & safety laws in terms of high street stores and concessions, and consumer protection laws.
LEGAL 72
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TheBigIdea
Providing a service to appeal and reach the modern, modest woman who wants to be fashionable.
After a broad analysis and evaluation of opportunities relating to modesty (see Big Idea - appendix) the final idea is based on authority, instinctive thoughts and hints gained. Creative methodology was used to turn insight into a big idea which is ‘A service to appeal to and reach the modest woman who wants to be fashionable.’ The key insight that led to the idea of this service was the realisation that there is a dearth of choice of fashionable modest clothing in shops and online even though there is an apparent growing market of people interested. The USP would be a neutral take on modesty without explicitly stating religions, as research has given insight that there are all kinds of women who want to be modest, not just religious women. The big idea is aimed at generation Y women who are willing to make the choice to dress and accessorize on trend whilst remaining modest. Taking into account the research about what modesty means, the service offered will need to encompass the main ‘umbrella’ modesty laws, whilst not offering a service exclusively for specific religions.
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Is there a danger of the service being culturally divisive? There have always been culture clashes around the subject of extreme clothing. A lot of this stems from fear and dislike of anything that seems different or threatening, for example the Burka, which covers the woman completely. A recent poll for the Express newspaper found the majority of people in favour of a ban (March 2016).
The new service will be inclusive rather than exclusive as it won’t promote any extreme religious clothing or items that would conceal the whole body. It will hopefully create a community of people of different faiths or no faith at all to share a dialogue and exchange ideas . The next step will be choosing the best creative concept to deliver the big idea, testing its viability and building awareness around it.
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78
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Fig 28. Modest women community (2016)
Modest Consumer 80
Fig 29. Lookbook image (2016)
‘Clothes are a major tool in the construction of identity.’ (Crane, 2000)
The service will appeal to the consumers as it meets their needs and provides a solution to their shopping issues.
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Sarah, 25
•
Absorbed in the modesty dialogue
•
Young woman working full time
•
Her annual clothing spend is £600.
•
She enjoys online shopping and is active on social media.
•
She spends time shopping with friends.
•
Her go-to online brand is ASOS as she likes the choice but feels intimidated by it.
•
She needs help in trend responses and therefore multiple purchasing.
•
She is plotted on the late majority, as she wants to be fashionable but finds it difficult to pair modest items together and would find it really helpful to get advice in this regard.
•
She has bold tastes and enjoys making a statement but is nervous of making mistakes.
Fig 30. Consumer 1 (2016)
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•
A student
•
Would consider herself to be an
Alice, 19
optimistic person and is very selfmotivated •
Likely to buy into brands and her go -to online brand is Next as she thinks they’re the most on trend to source modest products, without having an overwhelming selection and because they also don’t have too many immodest items on view.
•
She wants to add more things to her wardrobe but needs help in making those choices as she does not have a strong sense of selfstyle and is on a limited budget.
•
She is influenced by peer pressure, and buys online in a social environment with friends of other faiths so doesn’t want to appear too different.
•
She describes herself as having a conservative nature. However, she would like to be less conservative and wants to be fashionable and unobtrusively modest.
Fig 31. Consumer 2 (2016)
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All the bags are sealed up as they are representing modest consumers. The consumers are Generation Y and the late majority with many different personalities but what they have in common is that they are all modest and want to be stylish. Primary research showed that these women like to accesories so bags is something in common and is a effective way to unpack the consumer.
Bag
Style
Condition
Sporty
Well worn
Light weight materials
A favourite item
Practical, washable fabric
Used daily
Two way straps
Washed once a week
Generous size
Stylish
Mint condition
Classic
Always done up
Designer (Expensive)
Never over filled
Timeless Sophisticated
Lived in
Worn every day
Holds everything
Replaced with another
Lots of compartments
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one the same when it is worn out
Variables •
Design
Conventional
•
The bag (shape, contents, materials)
•
The design (colour, surface pattern)
The condition (clean, shabby, neat, old, looked after)
Consumer
Reasons for modesty
She is outgoing, sociable, sporty. She works
Contrasting colours
She dresses modestly as she partakes
hard and plays hard and puts a lot of emphasis
in a lot of out door sporting activities in
Feminime but sophisticated
on physical health and keeping in shape. In
the open air. Therefore, she is worried
terms of fashion, she doesn’t make a statement
about sun damage so covers herself
and tends to blend in. Her favourite brands are
up for protection from the sun. She
Nike and Adidas.
‘plays safe’ with her choices of colours
Typical woman’s sports bag Not statement making
and fabrics but would like to have a few Surface pattern Prominant designer logo - adds status, advertises the wearer is wealthy and can afford an expensive bag Leather Oversized - to be extra noticeable Practical
She is materialistic and having posession is important to her. She wants to fit in with her demographic and show that she is part of a cosmopoltian ‘set’. She is balancing old values and traditions with fitting in to her very modern fashionable, consumer orientated enviroment. She buys her Muslim attire mostly online. She is relaxed and laid back and works as a art therapist. She shops at Oxfam, and likes to
Unisex
go to vintage stores. She has recently started
Slightly over sized
to uses ASOS market place which has a lot of
Canvas and leather
vintage clothing and accesories.
She dresses modestly as she is a religious Muslim woman. She wears an Abaya and Hijab so uses bags to show her individuality and be attractive. She is aware secular cultures are judging her and finds that designer bags allow her to demonstrate her wealth and status. She dresses modestly as she is not particularly interested in following trends
and
just
likes
to
dress
comfortably, with a slightly bohemian look. Modest clothing appeals to her as it is casual and easy to wear for work.
Fig 32: Unpacking the consumer 1
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Bag
Style
Condition
Old fashioned
Looked after
Peaseant / country looking
A favourite posession
Understated
Proudly worn - displaying love of God
Practical Cheap looking
Classic
Good
Conventional
show a serious mind
Practical
Treats it with a leather
It is what it looks like
condition
to
polish to maintain its condition
Used for business Worn every day
Slightly worn but still smart
Simple
Used often
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Design
Earthy colours
Consumer
Reasons for modesty
She has a modest personality and is polite and caring, putting other people before
Canvas
herself. She has strong Christian values
Simple
and attends Church regularly. She does a lot of charity work raising money for good causes. She currently buys her clothes from Christian websites and charity shops.
She is a Christian woman and therefore adheres to Christian codes of dressing. She is displaying her beliefs on her bag because she is proud of of them and hopes it may influence others. She would wear clothing to show her pride in her faith. She thinks that if she dresses more stylishly, she could use her influence to pull in women who may not identify with her.
Leather
She is a business woman and is a feminist.
She works in an office full of men. Therefore,
She is senior management in a world of
she doesn’t want to attract unnecessary
Brass fastening
finance. She doesn’t use her bag to be
male attention or appear that she is dressing
feminie but instead, for practical reasons.
to encourage attention. However, as her
She shops at Whistles and Jigsaw and Next
accessories are practical, she uses clothing to
for the majority of her clothing.
add a bit more style and individuality to her
Unisex Over the shoulder strap and handle
Leather
appearance while still remaining modest. She works in media and is tired of people
She is modest as she is fed up with people
using provocative clothing as a way
using clothes as an expression of their
of promoting themselves and getting
sexuality. She doesn’t want to be judged by
themselves noticed. Currently, she shops
what she wears. She has feminist values and
at supermarkets such as George at Asda
believes that men and women should both
and Tu at Sainsburys.
dress modesty. She wants to find clothes easily without putting in a lot of effort. Fig 33: Unpacking the consumer 2
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Bag
Style
Condition
Simple
New
Small
Used
Elegant
only
for
special
occasions
For evening wear
Feminine Washable
Used a lot Washed every fortnight
Holds a lot of makeup
Simple
Stained
Soft
‘Lived in’
Comfortable
Well loved A few years old
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Design
Consumer
Reasons for modesty
Looks expensive
She is a wife and works part time as a
She is a young Jewish woman who is
Not over stated
teaching assistant. She likes to shop online,
modest for religious reasons. She is married
especially looking for clothes she can
and her friends are getting married so
adapt herself by adding under garments
attends lots of weddings, parties etc. She
to make items suitable for evening wear.
struggles to find everything she needs
She also go to Primark for simple items like
and would like to find it more easily, in one
long sleeved t-shirts.
place.
Classic / timeless Compliments outfits Slightly vintage feel
Standard makeup bag Vanity case style Timeless Ageless
She is a makeup artist and always carries round her makeup bag. Her clothes are fitted, but cover her up and her aim is to be as stylish as possible while remaining modest. She uses Polyvore to find outfits and inspire her but struggles to find modest clothing.
Shoulder bag Faux leather Press stud fastening
She is modest as she wants to appeal sexy and is buying into the idea that modesty is ‘the new sexy.’ She believes that dressing like this will make her popular and bring her love and happiness. She tried being sexy and immodest and now she is convinced this is a more effective way of attracting the opposite sex. She is trying to ‘make sexy respectful’
She is a University student who has a large
She is over weight and influenced by social
social peer group. Her bag is an expression
media and blogs to want to be thinner and fit
of her personality which is hectic and
in. She has found the modest clothing market
disorganized. She bought her bag online
a new fashion statement that she can follow as
as she does most of her clothing. Her go-to
she can hide the parts of her body she doesn’t
shop is ASOS and buys and sells clothing on
want to show, while still looking stylish.
Depop to supplement her student loan. Fig 34: Unpacking the consumer 3
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Completing a SWOT analysis was helpful (see Marketing models - appendix). This revealed that there is a potentially big market for a new service for modest clothing. This could be seen as a favourable point as the service would be offering something new which could generate positive discussion on social media. By being the first to offer this service, the brand will benefit from a ‘first mover advantage’, with the scope to benefit in monetary and marketing terms. However, a weakness of being the first mover, is that other companies could copy the idea, more cost effectively and could take advantage of mistakes made by the first mover. There needs to be an awareness of the threat of competition and strategies put in place to combat it. There may also be some opposition from within the fashion industry itself, Pierre Bergé, Yves Saint Laurent’s former business partner said on Europe 1 radio that they are ‘taking part in the enslavement of women’. Another consideration is the negative press surrounding such a new and potentially controversial idea. There is some risk of a backlash from strict observers of religion or opposition from human rights activists or feminists who may see the service as pandering to male dominance. (Ogilvynoor,2015)With these possible threats recognised, it is important that they are considered with an action
‘I am scandalised, I have always believed that a fashion designer is there to make women beautiful and grant them freedom and not side with compulsory dictatorship. This abominable way to hiding women.’
plan in place prior to launching. (Pierre Bergé, Vogue, 2016)
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Fig 35. Protest (2015)
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Route to Consumer
Defined Consumer
Fiig 36. Klimt inspired consumer (2016)
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Fig 37. Curve of Innovation (2013)
‘Innovation starts by intimately observing your consumer’ (Trendhunter,
2013) The target consumers are women who are the late majority of generation Y (Rogers Curve of Innovation 2003 ). They are from any faith but are not strictly orthodox in their religious practices and dress code; equally they could have no religion at all. The consumers are young working women, students, mothers and others who want to dress modestly for different reasons. The common denominator is that they are all interested in improving their personal style by dressing modestly and fashionably with ease. The consumer lives in the same social media obsessed world as every other woman of generation Y, with all the influences and pressures these social media platforms bring. The consumers are a very socially driven group and are active on social media; 75% have created at least one social media account. (Guardian 2016). The fact that social
media generates pressure for its users is supported by Lloyd (2005) ‘Influence of the media and pressures from peers are apparent’ .
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Insight gained from research conducted earlier has provided an understanding of the consumer’s frustrations on different levels when shopping for modest clothing. The current lack of choice is coupled with the less than enjoyable experience of ‘trekking round the shops for hours and often finding modest wear displayed alongside offensive immodest clothing.’ (primary research, 2015)
The research also highlighted that the consumer is searching for clothing that is not only modest, but also stylish. They are influenced by celebrities and what they see on the internet, social media and in magazines. They spend much of their time online, viewing fashion websites and reading blogs. 30% of Generation Y rely mostly on blogs before they make a purchase. (Forbes 2015) Research indicates that Haute Hijab and Mimu Maxi are modest brands that are already succesfully connecting with them on social media as well as websites. 95% of consumers expect brands to have a Facebook presence. (Guardian, 2016).
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‘ Desperately chasing the youth zeitgeist has become the guiding policy of many a marketing force.’ (Social media week, 2016)
Fig 38: Generation Y women taking a ‘selfie’ (2014)
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Brand Essence
KEY NEED
Fig will satisfy consumers need for stylish modest clothing
VALUE PROPOSITION AUDIENCE
Fig will link rationally with the consumer and continue to keep them engaged by having an Intergrated marketing campaign.
Identifying and understanding the most receptive market segments
PROOF
PERSONALITY Personalising the message - making it appropriate for a variety of modest women. Fig has a young tone of voice but still shows sophistication and intelligence. Fig is approachable, informal yet professional and trustworthy.
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Providing evidence and credibility. Primary research (especially the shopping expidition) provided proof of why this is credible. Fig 39. Brand Analysis (2016)
Fig is the name chosen for the online brand of modest clothing wear. Fig has a strong identity as a clean and stylish brand, with the overriding concept of clarity. Fig will deliver results by adhering to these values. Essentially, the message the brand is promoting is that it is ‘cool’ to be modest.
Fig is a social commerce service that acts as a ‘trend friend’, ‘style guide’ for modest, modern women who want to be fashionable.
It will curate a range of stylish clothing that the consumer would be interested in. Fig’s slogan is ‘We’ve got you covered’.
It is simple, clear and to the point . The slogan refers to clothes covering the body, along with Fig having all the needs of the consumer covered. This holistic approach is aimed at making the consumer feel they are being taken care of and that they have finally found a ‘safe spot’ in the jungle of modest clothing. The slogan will be found throughout Fig’s campaign.
‘Behaviours are the product to be marketed’. (Kotler, 2003) Therefore, Fig aims to change the behaviour of modest consumers, ensuring that Fig is the brand from which they source all their clothing. Fig is taking on the challenge of changing the consumer’s shopping habits for the long term. This change in behaviour should be easy and enjoyable for the consumer as their current shopping methods are so problematic.
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Fig 40. Fresh Fig image (2016)
Fig’s communication strategy will take place over six weeks. The key aims are: •
To be the number one option for the consumer and to maintain this position.
Brand Aims & Voice
•
To provide the consumer with a meaningful and rewarding relationship with the brand.
•
To communicate the message that women can be stylish and modest in this immodest world.
•
To enable the consumer to feel connected to the brand.
Fig will communicate with the consumer in a clear way, using a young tone of voice. Along with being light hearted, it will be engaging so Fig’s personality shines through and the consumer feels as though a trusted friend is looking after them.
The consumer doesn’t hoard things or clutter. (Primary research, 2015). Therefore, it is imperative Fig represents this feeling of
freedom and space. In addition, Fig’s consumers do not like to be sold to loudly, so it is important that the brand is strong enough to speak for itself. ‘It is advisable
for marketers to build
genuine relationships with Gen-Y consumers and not try to overtly sell’. (Marty Brochstein, senior vice president of The International Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association, 2015)
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Landscape ‘WHAT STARTED OUT AS A TREND WILL SOON BECOME AN IMPORTANT PART OF POST - MODERN CULTURE AS SOCIAL NETWORKS WILL EVENTUALLY BECOME A NATURAL EXTENSION OF OUR PUBLIC (Yourstory, 2015) LIVES.’
‘ The aim is to establish a strong and recognizable position that is consistant over time and to make sure products and brands are clearly different from those offered by the competition.’
As the modest brands have previously been analysed, it is essential to look at the social commerce brands. The brand that is communicating the best is Polyvore as they have the most sales and are the most active. Chi Chi clothing.com are communicating the worst. They are old fashioned and don’t communicate with the consumer or understand their needs. Looking at what has been retweeted from competitors gave Fig insight into what consumers want. From this, it is clear there is definitely room for Fig to hold a competitive advantage in this market. Research has given a clear advantage to Fig, as it is able to identify mistakes made by
(Posner, 2011)
current brands and ensure these are not to be repeated.
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On trend
Inevested in social media
Underinvested in social media
Laggards
Fig 41. Perceptual map 3 (2016)
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Analysing why Polyvore is successful is helpful when developing ‘Fig.’ ‘Each month, the Polyvore community pins hundreds of thousands of looks to Pinterest. This made Pinterest and Polyvore a match made in heaven, where anyone who’s passionate about style can discover, share and shop across two of their favorite platforms.’ (Ranjan, Polyvore, 2014)
Polyvore is an online site which allows users to make combinations of different items of clothing that can be shared on social media, allowing people to keep up with trends. The site is very clean and easy to navigate which is essential for Fig’s website. Young people especially enjoy sharing their outfits on social media sites so it particularly appeals to them. They are linked to Pinterest to help generate sales.
Polyvore gets over 20 millions views per month (Trueship marketing.com 2016). Many retailers from designer to high street use the site to introduce new lines and then get feedback on them. Fig would use Polyvore as a benchmark and aim to emulate its success.
Case study Fig’s USP is that it is a social commerce service similar to Polyvore, however it will be on a much more personal level and will cater only to the modest market. A unique feature of Fig is that it is constantly searching the internet for really interesting modest clothing. This allows women to find their own voice as they are then able to assemble outfits from Fig’s pre-selected items. By using Fig, the consumers can have an effortless and pleasurable shopping experience. The service will aim to make the shopping experience an enjoyable one rather than a stressful one.
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Fig 42. Polyvore moodboard (2016)
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Brand Strategy It is vital that Fig has a common voice throughout the entire company. Brand, advertising and publicity and all aspects of Fig will work together in harmony in an integrated way. Methodology suggests the most appropriate communication mix is earned media. This is a good way for a new company to get free written or verbal publicity from third parties. In addition, search engine optimization is also a good way to reach potential customers as it would help Fig to keep a high profile on search engines. The established strategy Fig is using is ‘Movement’ Fig aims to create a clarion call as this need for stylish, modest clothing is currently not being met. (Forbes, 2014) The marketing funnel is the process Fig will take. The stages are: awareness, consideration, preference, action, loyalty and advocacy.
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AWARENESS CONSIDERATION PREFERENCE ACTION LOYALTY ADVOCACY
Fig 43. Marketing Funnel (2016)
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Fig 44. Lookbook image (2016)
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‘ A CLEAR VISUAL AESTHETIC OFFERS A CULTURALLY AWARE CONSUMER THE EASIEST MEANS OF RESPONDING TO ADVERTISING’ (Moore, 2012)
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Stage One: Awareness
Fig 45. Lookbook mockup (2016)
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Fig 46. Lookbook mockup 2 (2016)
Circulating a lookbook ahead of the brand’s launch will create anticipation and a buzz around the community. It will be used to introduce the brand to as many potential consumers as possible and is the fundamental building block of the strategy and the incentive to the action stage of the marketing funnel. When it comes to the design recipe of the lookbook itself, it will maintain Fig’s concept of clarity and just 8 modest outfits will be displayed in a clear distinctive way. This will be the first look at the way the brand will be marketed and as mentioned earlier, the common voice of the brand will be shown right from the beginning with this lookbook. Fig will purchase mailing list from brands that consumers are already signed up to for example the Muslim brand (Haute Hijab), a Jewish brand (Mimu Maxi), a Christian brand (Downton Demure) and 15% off Zara (purchasing more than 15% is over Fig’s budget). The book will also be sent to non-religious consumers who dress in a modest way from other stores, this group of consumers will be chosen from some of the previous research into modest clothing stores. Lookbooks will be sent directly to consumer’s homes to maximize readership. Primary research reveals that many consumers still live at home with their families who may be more conservative or religious than them so the look book would be packaged in a discreet way. It will be in a crisp white paper envelope with just a window address. The design recipe of the look book itself will maintain Fig’s creative concept of clarity but also be tasteful and inspiring to the consumer. The lookbook is A5 as A4 size may be too generic and uncreative but any larger would increase production costs and not keep up the modest ethos. It will be printed on paper with a silk finish to give a quality finish. This could be an effective way of encouraging the consumer to hold onto the lookbook for a longer period of time. (digitalprinting, 2014) The lookbook’s primary focus is the imagery within it. Therefore, the layout will not detract from this and will feature white space. The design is sympathetic to Fig’s personality, it is simple and uncluttered with an editorial layout. A constistent theme of the lookbook is vertical and horizontal lines. Lines are suitable for the lookbook as they are a classic element of design and they also help to organise the layout, create a visual flow and guide the eye. They are consistant, modern and soft and are used to echo the linear patterns on the clothing. The light grey colour palette adds to the overall essence of the lookbook which has visual codes of purity. (Symbols, signs and visual codes, 2013) 111
Stage Two: Consideration The second part of the marketing funnel is consideration. This process will be initiated by Zara, who will help Fig by being part of a collaboration. Methodology revealed Zara is one of the key places modest consumers like to shop. Therefore, it will be effective for Fig to have a presence on their social media sites and gain some of Zara’s following which will need funding. It will occur every Wednesday, at 2pm for one month. This isn’t a key time for Zara and word of mouth will help to promote the buzz around when Fig are posting at that time. Fig will use this opportunity to advertise their brand launch. There will be a competition for consumers to post modest outfits for a chance to be featured in Fig’s upcoming website. From this, other brands could want to get involved. ‘Bigger brands can provide a platform for the smaller brands to showcase their ranges as they already have an established
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following’ (Shaw, 2016). This collaboration uses the coat tails strategy and will be mutually beneficial because much of the modest clothing will be from Zara and therefore, once Fig is launched, its consumers will be driven to Zara’s website, increasing their sales in line with increased popularity of Fig’s services.
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Fig 47. Fig Zara collab (2016)
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Fig 48.. Fig twitter (2016)
Stage Three: Preference Research shows that the majority of generation Y consumers do not spend time watching ads on TV and use adblock and similar technologies to get around adverts. The research showed that the majority are not interested in being sold to and prefer to rely on recommendations from friends and others on social media. The use of social media outlets forms a part of the consumer behaviour model. ‘Social media is not just an activity, it is an investment of valuable time.’ (Gardner, 2016) Fig will be releasing a Vine on social media to promote and hint about the brand and create excitement and a buzz around the brand before it is established. The aim is to make it interesting enough to get onto Vine’s featured page where it would be shown for a day, which would be free advertising with a minimum of 40,000 viewers.
Fig 49. Fig Vine (2016)
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Fig 50. Fig Facebook (2016)
Consumers will be able to visit Fig’s personal social media pages. Consumers’ lifestyles are busy so the appropriate time to communicate with them is when they are active on social media. They are completely immersed in the world of social media so it is important that Fig keeps up with this fast paced world. Each social media page is a marketing strategy in itself as consumers can ‘like’ and ‘share’ posts, relating to the process of the AIDA model on the opposite page. Social media will keep Fig’s established tone of voice, display Fig’s logo and be in keeping with the simple clarity concept. Fig’s social media is another place consumers can enter the competition to post their outfits with the chance to become featured on Fig’s feature section. This will prompt consumers to explicitly engage with Fig. Fig will not bombard followers with posts but will do enough to keep the interest high. The search engine optimizations key word planner is invaluable technology and will bring Fig to the forefront when consumers search for the word ‘modesty.’
5 c’s of Social Media: Content: Fig’s launch will be the main content discussed on social media. Fig will regularly post content and get the consumer involved. Context: Facebook, twitter Instagram and Vine are key social media platforms and Fig can keep track of the progress by measuring followers and likes. Community: By consumers engaging with Fig’s pages, a community will form and consumers can speak to eachother by commenting on posts and tweeting. Fig is building a community of modest women who want to be stylish. Continuity: The posts will provoke word of mouth about Fig. Fig will continue to tell its story through a variety of different channels. Cohesion: Fig’s channels will be integrated to reflect the message their a clear and clean brand.
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AWARENESS
Social media will keep up awareness about Fig. Fig’s design recipe will also help awarness. Fig wants consumers to feel impatient for the next post.
INTEREST
To maintain interest, Fig will update its contents regularly and keep the consumer involved. Consumers will ‘like’ ‘follow’ and ‘subscribe’.
DESIRE
Fig’s competitions involve consumers which will initiate desire along with Fig’s offers and discounts. Consumers are connected and they know, like and trust Fig.
ACTION Consumers will use Fig as their number one, go to modest clothing destination.
Fig 51. Fig AIDA Model (2016)
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Stage Four: Action The process up to this point has been focused on capturing the consumers’ interest in the brand, leading up to Fig’s website launch. The time of the launch will be released on social media to maximise excitement.
“THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST POWERFUL TOOLS IN SOCIAL COMMERCE.” (ytpo, 2015)
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Research shows that 91% of consumers use smart phones. (Smart insights, 2016) The website will be available on the consumer’s smart phone which is created differently for optimum use. They will be able to download the Fig app which makes the process easier. Consumers will have the option on the app to receive push notifications straight through to their phone. If consumers are hoping for a chance to be featured on the website, doing it from the phone will be quicker and easier for them. On the app, there would be an electronic flipbook (primary research) for a fun, quick way to
put together outfits. This facility ensures that as a brand, Fig is able to capitalize on mobile technology to promote their brand. The website will be available globally to encompass all different cultures and countries giving it an advantage over some of the competitors who are purely UK focused. Most importantly, the website will profit as Fig gets paid a commission from the high street stores that are represented on the Fig website. (Businessoffashion,2015)
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‘40% OF CONSUMERS BUY MORE FROM RETAILERS WHO PERSONALIZE THE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE ACROSS CHANNELS. (Monetate, 2015)
‘MORE AND MORE CUSTOMERS ARE PREFERRING TO BUY ONLINE FROM THEIR MOBILE DEVICES AND THIS TREND IS GOING TO CONTINUE IN THE FUTURE TOO.’
(teachsling, 2016)
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Fig 52. Fig Ecommerce page (2016)
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Fig 53. Fig features page (2016)
The feature page is where modest consumers’ outfits are posted by Fig along with some information about them.
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• • • • •
Opportunity to view where celebrities source their clothing Principle part of the website is the outfits Fig has created from high street stores. Looks are divided into different sections (eg, work, social) Clicks on items directing consumer to the source. Curating and pairing items from high street stores in unique / fun way to entice consumer. Outfits will be updated weekly in order to keep the consumers inspired whilst not overloading them with content
Fig 54. Fig Create page (2016)
Website pages: • Home page will be consistent with Fig’s aesthetics - clear / easy to navigate . • 15% deal in place offering customers discount when they subscribe. • The ‘create’ page will appeal to the established creative archetype as consumers can create their own modest look. Fig wants to inspire its consumers and give every shopper the opportunity to be a stylist. • Consumers can add favorite items. • There is a chat box that appears at the bottom of the page which allows consumers to ask any questions that would be answered instantly by Fig’s staff. (Personal connection)
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Fig 55. Fig’s looks page (2016)
Stage Five: Loyalty Weakness
Strengths • • • • • • •
• • • •
Will be succesful in providing inspiration for target consumer Promotes the other brands including Zara, Asos, Topshop etc Supports the growing modesty movement Raises awareness and popularity Help to blur existing racial barriers
To participate at an event (eg have a stand) where different brands can attend and showcase modest outfits Once profits increase, could feature clothing from high end fashion houses prompting growth in the modest industry Helping to give recognition and identity to faith groups
• • • •
• • •
•
Opportunities
Despite primary and secondary research showing generation Y as the right target market, there will be some consumers who will not be interested in the lookbook or changing their style. High start up costs The lookbook could be discarded without being read Social platform for e-commerce is a niche. Outrage by the older community that social media is corrupting religious values and not acting as good role models to the younger generation Some consumers may not like the other brand sites that they are diverted to so lose interest Some consumers may not like online shopping and prefer to see and feel items first As the brand establishes itself, consumers may be more familiar with choosimg stylish modest outfits so they may not use the site as much and instead source clothing themselves As the market is continuing to grow, there is the threat of more competition
Threats
Fig 56. SWOT (2016)
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As Fig expands and increases awareness amongst consumers, they will gain brand loyalty without the need to make changes as Fig would have already established itself as a leading modesty brand. ‘If you build and maintain a loyal relationship with your customer, they are more likely to buy, buy again, spend more and tell other people about you’ (Convince and convert, 2015)
Evaluate
Lookbook
Fig’s social media pages
Advocate The feature section Links on Fig’s website
Fig 57. Loyalty loop (2016)
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Stage Six: Advocacy
The Zara collaboration will be a huge support to Fig for the month before its launch but it is unrealistic financially to make it a regular collaboration. The women who become a feature on the Fig website will then possibly post images, blogs etc which will provide more publicity for Fig. Because of the nature of the brand and the communities it is appealing to, the strongest form of advocacy for Fig is word of mouth. If however, Zara see a boost in sales by collaborating with Fig, they may choose to ensure this further by collaborating once a month. Alternatively the brand could reach out to similar companies to Zara for one-off collaborations to boost viewers to Fig and sales to the collaborator.
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‘WHILE WORD-OF-MOUTH HAS DIFFERENT DEGREES OF INFLUENCE ON CONSUMERS AT EACH STAGE OF THE CONSUMER JOURNEY (INITIAL CONSIDERATION, ACTIVE EVALUATION, MOMENT OF PURCHASE), IT’S THE ONLY FACTOR THAT RANKS AMONG THE THREE BIGGEST CONSUMER INFLUENCERS AT EVERY STEP.’
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Measuring Success Fig will measure its success by social media activity along with sales and profits. (Those women who appear in the feature section of the website will be encouraged to share their involvement with Fig through social media channels.) The number of people that use the website will enable Fig to gauge the success of the lookbook. The email subscriptions, order numbers and point system will be an easy way to measure the success of the website. To measure success, Fig would also look at the content and evaluate the conversations that occur online such as on Twitter and Facebook.
The amount of likes on social media pages The amount of social media followers Competition contestants Customer feedback Press coverage Sales in the high street stores Online feedback Online reviews Responses to Zara collaboration Word of mouth - how big the topic is in conversation between the community (conducting focus groups) Fig 58. Measuring Fig’s success (2016)
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Funding: Funding
Cost £££
Retailer
PRINT 1000 COPIES OF LOOKBOOK
150
saxoprint
PRINT 5000 COPIES OF LOOKBOOK
400
saxoprint
PRINT 1000 COPIES OF LOOKBOOK SLEEVES
100
saxoprint
PRINT 5000 COPIES OF LOOKBOOK SLEEVES
200
saxoprint
CREATE AN APP
8000
basic (businessapps.co.uk)
CREATE AN APP
23000
advanced(businessapps.co.uk)
CREATE WEBSITE
3000
cheap.cheapweb.co.uk
BUY 15% OF ZARA MAILING LIST
not yet known
ADVERTISING COSTS
Full Page advert
Half Page advert
JEWISH CHRONICLE
3500
1980
JEWISH NEWS
2800
1600
EMEL
not yet known
DAILY MAIL
30000
WEIGHTWATCHERS
not yet known
Fig 59. Fig ‘s Funding (2016)
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Future Fig will need sufficient sales per month to cover the overheads of approximately £300 per month, to keep the website running plus staff costs plus advertising costs. If the lookbook is successful, this would be produced quarterly, which would cost approximately £2,400 per year. Within five years, there will be a total of 15 lookbooks and each one will contain looks chosen by Fig for the consumer, with differnt styles and fashions to suit various consumer styles. The website will be continuously updated to keep consumers interested. Fig’s future looks promising as commission will be made from other high street brands sharing the site. For example, every item purchased from Zara though the Fig website or lookbook will have a pre agreed percentage of the price given directly to Fig. The lookbook combined with the internet ensures that Fig’s marketing campaign is inteergrated., driving traffic between offline and online channels. (Business Dictionary, , 2015) In the future, Fig could also incorporate some high end fashion houses which will appeal to those consumers with bigger budgets. If the Zara collaboration is successful, Fig will look to team up with other brands on a monthly basis. Fig could host an event where high street brands featured on Fig can bring their modest clothing to showcase. Fig hopes to hold an annual event where the women who were featured on the website during the year, would be invited to an event where they are treated to a fashion show, watching the outfits that they styled being modelled on a runway. When the brand Fig becomes a well known name, bill boards wil be created with just a fig leaf image (mystery advertising eg. Nike Just-Do-It campaign). It will be so recognisable, the fig leaf will be a simple and powerful tool. It is important that Fig continues to grow as retail is constantly evolving.
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‘ The formulas for yesterday’s success are almost guaranteed to be formulas for failure tomorrow’ (Gibson, 2011)
2016
• • • • • • •
• • • • • •
Vine Lookbook Zara collaboration Active on social media Website launch Online conversation
10,000+ social media followers Fashion show event Popular page social media Ongoing blog Brand advocacy Styling Youtube 2018 channel Established •
2017
• • • • •
• • • • • • •
Involvement with high fashion houses Celebrity endorsement Monthly collabs with brands Pop up events Own branded accesories Increase in sales by 60%
Billboards TV adverts Magazine subscription Store openings Own branded clothing 25,000+ social media followers No decline in sales •
2019
• • • •
2020
Known around the world as the ‘go to modest brand’ Interviews Fashion magazine features Exhibitin Fig staff as modest stylists in high street stores (Asos, topshop etc)
Fig 60. Fig’s future (2016)
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Conclusion
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THE WORLD’S SHIFTING CONSCIOUSNESS AND UNDERSTANDING OF FAITH MEANS THAT MODEST CLOTHING IS STARTING TO HAVE AN IMPACT ON FASHION ALONG WITH FASHION IMPACTING MODEST CLOTHING. WITH THE APPROPRIATE POSITIONING, THE TREND HAS THE POTENTIAL TO BECOME ‘CRITICAL MASS’ AND INFLUENCE IN THE LONG TERM. (Business of Fashion, 2014)
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The research carried out into the modesty movement, in relation to the fashion industry indicates that increasing numbers of women from all religions plus many with no faith, are striving to dress fashionably yet modestly and express their individuality through clothing. Young women of faith who are expected to follow their religious laws are now in conflict, wanting to balance modesty versus being part of modern society and participate in social media and fashion along with the rest of their generation. The spill over of modest wear into mainstream fashion is helping to blur the contradiction and there are indications that this will be more than a passing trend. Television programmes and fashion events featuring Islamic & Christian modest clothing have brought modesty to a larger audience, endorsing the modesty trend and influencing adoption. All of this is helpful in breaking down the barriers and pre-conceptions of modest dressing.
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However, research has shown It is especially difficult for younger that modest women are under- women who are trying to piece represented in advertising, shops, together fashionable outfits. catwalks and the fashion industry It is clear from shadowed as a whole. Many women are shopping trips, interviews, articles shopping on-line but not enjoying written and social media blogs their experiences and finding it that these women want to have a
difficult to match outfits together voice and be noticed and catered to fit the requirements and still for. Fig would provide a service to ‘look good’. Others are trawling appeal to and reach the modern through rails in shops trying to modest woman who wants to be put together items that are often fashionable and will help to bridge ill-matched and poorly displayed. this gap in the market.
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List of Illustrations
Fig 1: Lookbook (2016) Street style [Online] Available at: http://lookbook.nu/search?categories%5B%5D=Skirts [Accessed 16/2/16] Fig 2: Lebow, C (2016) Modest fashion timeline [Own edit] Fig 3: SY, C (2014) Adam and Eve [Online] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/459930180666561326/ [Accessed 2/2/16] Fig 4: Lebow, C (2016) Religion chart 1 [Own edit] Fig 5: Lebow, C (2016) Venn Diagram [Own edit] Fig 6: Orifino, E (2015)Makeup masterful Hijabis who prove Modesty is anything but boring [Online] Available at: http://www. popsugar.co.uk/beauty/Makeup-Masterful-Hijabis-Who-Prove-Modesty-Anything-Boring-36798588#photo-36798588 [Accessed 4/3/16] Fig 7: Lebow, C (2016) Religion chart 2 [Own edit] Fig 8: Wigsinboise (2015) Wig shopping [Online] Available at: http://wigsinboise.com/about-us/ [Accessed 3/4/16] Fig 9: Lebow, C (2016) Consumer archetypes [Own edit] Fig 10: Tumblr (2015) Black and white - girl on phone [Online] Available at: https://www.tumblr.com/search/black&white%20 drawing%20fashion%20girl%20hair%20phone [Accessed 3/4/16] Fig 11: Richardson, T (2015) Miley Candy magazine naked photoshoot [Online] Available at: http://www.hotcelebshome. com/2015/11/24/miley-cyrus-candy-magazine-naked-photoshoot-by-terry-richardson/ [Accessed 3/4/16] Fig 12: IBT (2014) Royal Tour [Online] Available at: http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/royal-tour-kate-middleton-stuns-green-erdem-coat-new-zealand-1444484 [Accessed 3/4/16] Fig 13: StyleBistro (2015) Mayim Bialik Style [Online] Available at: http://www.stylebistro.com/lookbook/Mayim+Bialik/ L1LaLJqpR6e [Accessed 5/3/16] Fig 14: Reed, J (2016) Olsen twins 2016 [Online] Available at: http://www.jobsnhire.com/articles/41729/20160425/olsentwins-2016-hiding-paparazzi-art-made-kickstarters-dream-successful.htm [Accessed 6/3/16] Fig 15: Lebow, C (2016) Cultural Calendar [Own edit] Fig 16: Fariha (2015) Girls hijab styles and hijab fashion ideas - Dina Torkia [Online] Available at: http://girlshijab.com/ hijab-accessories/dina-torkia-hijab-with-dresses-for-modern-women.php [Accessed 6/3/16] Fig 17: Cafepress (2016) Modest is hottest t-shirt [Online] Available at: http://www.cafepress.co.uk/+modest-hottest+t-shirts [Accessed 6/3/16] Fig 18: Lebow, C (2016) Key insight table [Own edit] 144
Fig 18: Lebow, C (2016) Key insight table [Own edit] Fig 19: Lebow, C (2016) Modest girls interview Fig 20: Elturk, M (2015) What H&M's Hijab-wearing model means for Muslim women [Online] Available at: http://www.elle.com/ culture/career-politics/news/a30845/hm-campaign-hijab-wearing-model/ [Accessed 7/3/16] Fig 21: Buzzfeed (2014) Pictures of Harajuku girls [Online] Available at: https://www.buzzfeed.com/pikapika/10-pictures-of-harajuku-girls-107lj [Accessed 7/3/16] Fig 22: Lebow, C (2016) Positives and Negatives D&G chart [Own edit] Fig 23: Yotka, S (2016) Dolce & Gabbana's Embellished Hijabs and Abayas are great news for Muslim women - when will other brands follow suit? [Online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13384616/dolce-gabbana-hijab-abaya-collection/ [Accessed 8/3/16] Fig 24: Lynch, A (2016) Uniqlo launches second hijab collection with UK designer [Online] Available at: http://metro.co.uk/2016/03/10/ uniqlo-has-launched-its-first-hijab-collection-with-a-uk-designer-5743796/ [Accessed 8/3/16] Fig 25: Pallenberg, M (2016) Burkini [Online] Available at: http://www.express.co.uk/news/world/678469/Christian-mayor-bans-burkini-swimming-pools-complaints-Neutraubling-Germany [Accessed 8/3/16] Fig 26: Lebow, C (2016) Perceptual map 1 [Own edit] Fig 27: Lebow, C (2016) Perceptual map 2 [Own edit] Fig 28: Lebow, C (2016) Modest women community Instagram [Own edit] Fig 29: Lebow, C (2016) Lookbook image Fig 30: Lebow, C (2016) Consumer 1 [Own edit] Fig 31: Lebow, C (2016) Consumer 2 [Own edit] Fig 32: Lebow, C (2016) Unpacking the consumer 1 [Own edit] Fig 33: Lebow, C (2016) Unpacking the consumer 2 [Own edit] Fig 34: Lebow, C (2016) Unpacking the consumer 3 [Own edit] Fig 35: Eichhorn, L (2015) Exporting naked protest [Online] Available at: http://www.terrorismwatch.org/2012/09/exporting-naked-protest-femen-first.html [Accessed 8/3/16] Fig 36: Lebow, C (2016) Klimt inspired consumer Fig 37: Bendle, W (2013) Innovation - Applying the 5 Innovative Curiosity questions [Online] Available at: http://brainzooming. com/innovation-applying-the-5-innovative-curiosity-questionsby-woody-bendle/18423/ [Accessed 8/3/16] 145
Fig 38: Gray, S (2014) Travel & style [Online] Available at: http://www.travelandstyle.ca/where-not-to-take-a-selfie/ [Accessed 2/4/16] Fig 39: Lebow, C (2016) Brand Analysis [Own edit] Fig 40: Mordechai, K (2015) Figs [Online] Available at: http://www.sunday-suppers.com/blog/recipe-figs-with-mascarpone-creme-fraiche [Accessed 2/4/16] Fig 41: Lebow, C (2016) Perceptual map 3 [Own edit] Fig 42: Lebow, C (2016) Polyvore moodboard [Own edit] Fig 43: Lebow, C (2016) Marketing funnel [Own edit] Fig 44: Lebow, C (2016) Lookbook image Fig 45: Lebow, C (2016) Lookbook mock up Fig 46: Lebow, C (2016) Lookbook mock up 2 Fig 47: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Zara Collab Fig 48: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Twitter Fig 49: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Vine Fig 50: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Facebook Fig 51: Lebow, C (2016) Fig aida model Fig 52: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Ecommerce page Fig 53: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Features page Fig 54: Lebow, C (2016) Fig create page Fig 55: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Looks page Fig 56: Lebow, C (2016) SWOT Analysis Fig 57: Lebow, C (2016) Loyalty Loop Fig 58: Lebow, C (2016) Measuring Fig's success Fig 59: Lebow, C (2016) Fig's funding Fig 60: Lebow, C (2016) Fig's future 146
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158
Appendix
159
Project Brief School of Art & Design 2015/16
fcp3
Ba
Title: Self-Devised Project Type of Assessment: Summative Mode: Individual Module: Negotiated Project Module Leader: Michelle Hughes/Matt Gill
Brief
Ref. no: FASH30108
What
You are required to produce a visual report which answers your self-devised project brief. This should contain the development and completion of your research, key insights and opportunities which inform a chosen implementation strategy and creative final outcomes. You are required to execute and deliver the appropriate chosen creative outcomes in addition to your report. You are also required to complete a sketchbook documenting your research throughout the semester. When Project
Type
Briefed
Deadline
Feedback
Self-Devised initial presentations
Presentation
Pre summer
w/c 5 October 2015
Verbal tive
forma-
Self-Devised interim pre- Presentation sentation
w/c 5th October 2015
w/c 15th February 2016
Verbal tive
forma-
Self-Devised draft context Visual report and Big Idea visual report 5,000 words (+/-10%)
w/c 5th October 2015
21st March 2016
Written formative
Presentation
w/c 5th October 2015
Self-Devised creative concept and
th
12 noon
Execution (inc. route to consumer) ideas presentation
160
w/c 21st March 2016
Verbal tive
forma-
noon Self-Devised creative visual outcomes
Various formats
5 October 2015 th
mative
w/c 23 May 2016 exact date tbc re: degree show team rd
Written mative
Sum-
How Outcomes
a) Context and Big Idea. Format: Visual Report, 5,000 (+/-10%) words. ·
An individual printed Visual Document relating to your context and big idea (with Digital PDF copy) which is fully referenced with an appropriate page of references, list of illustrations and bibliography. This document should also contain a research methodology. The Appendix should contain supplementary information such as consent forms, interview transcripts, critical path, tutorial record forms etc.
·
Please make sure your ‘Ethical Checklist for Students’ and ‘Declaration Form’ are also included.
·
A digital pdf copy of your work should also be uploaded to the Dropbox on NOW for the FCP archive. Word count: Please note that the word count includes quotes. References, List of Illustrations, Bibliography and everything in the Appendix are excluded.
b) Sketchbook(s) ·
You are required to produce a sketchbook(s) (no bigger than A4) which should contain your visual research throughout the semester for the self-devised project. This sketchbook relates to your creative concepts. It should show ideas generation, visual research and inspiration.
c)
Executions
1) Route to consumer. Format: Visual report, 3,000 (+/- 10%) words. ·
An individual printed Visual Document relating to the route to consumer (with Digital PDF copy) which is fully referenced with an appropriate page of references, list of illustrations and bibliography. This document should also contain a research methodology. The Appendix should contain supplementary information such as consent forms, interview transcripts, critical path, tutorial record forms etc.
·
Please make sure your ‘Ethical Checklist for Students’ and ‘Declaration Form’ are also included.
·
A digital pdf copy of your work should also be uploaded to the Dropbox on NOW for the FCP archive. Word count: Please note that the word count includes quotes. References, List of Illustrations, Bibliography and everything in the Appendix are excluded.
2) Creative Outcome(s). Format: Appropriate to the nature of the brief. ·
Consider from the following examples: Prototype artwork, product mock-ups/models, prototype magazines, look-books, VM models, exhibition display, styling images, trend briefing document, 161digital platforms, mock web sites, storyboards, film
·
A digital pdf copy of your work should also be uploaded to the Dropbox on NOW for the FCP archive. Word count: Please note that the word count includes quotes. References, List of Illustrations, Bibliography and everything in the Appendix are excluded.
2) Creative Outcome(s). Format: Appropriate to the nature of the brief. ·
Consider from the following examples: Prototype artwork, product mock-ups/models, prototype magazines, look-books, VM models, exhibition display, styling images, trend briefing document, digital platforms, mock web sites, storyboards, film and video, photo-shoots, live fashion event, pop-up shop, experiential marketing, etc.
Reading (refer to NOW resource list and Module Guide for further reading) – Depending upon the project your tutor will guide you to appropriate reading.
Bergström, B. (2008) Essentials of visual communication. Laurence King. Hess, J. & Pasztorek, S. (2010) Graphic Design for Fashion. Laurence King. Barry, P. (2012). The Advertising Concept Book. London: Thames and Hudson
Hegarty, J. ((2014). Hegarty on Creativity. London: Thames and Hudson
Meerman Scott, D. (2013). The New Rules of Marketing and PR. New Jersey: John Wiley and Sons
162
163
Methodology Research method
Sample size
Online survey/ questionnaire
60
Purpose
To
gain
research
quantative on
modest
consumers: where they shop and why they shop.
Street Interviews
40
To
clarify
what
people consider to be â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;modestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and ask what being modest meant to them.
Melanie Elturk ( Haute Hijab) Interview
To gain a professional
1
insight into the modest fashion market.
164
Strengths
Weakness
Gives a variation of opinions from lots of types of modest consumers. helps to find the gaps and know what to include in subsequent questionnaires and interviews. As it is anonymous, women are likely to give more honest answers.
Outcomes
As it is online, they may have rushd it. A lot of people may not wish to give their time to something that has no incentive for them. People missed out answers to certain questions and often gave brief answers.
The majority of modest women prefer to shop online. They spend and average of £30 fortnightly. They have diffuculty finding clothes on the high street. Not everyone has the freedom to make choices. A lot are influenced by modest celebrities and being fashionable is desirable but in keeping with modest dress code.
were
Didn’t speak to a lof of older people
Younger women are very aware of the
diverse as the question was
as they were less willing to stop and
modesty diologue and several modest
conducted in a multi cultural
talk. Some people didn’t understand
women were interviewed. Another
area of North London. A lot
the purpose of the questions and the
outcome was celebrities that people
of young women answered
majority of passers by were too busy to
identified with being modest. These
which gave insight into a
give up their time.
included the Olsen twins and Kate
The
answers
given
Middleton.
potential consumer group. It was useful to see what her brand, Haute Hijab offers and what it is missing. To see why Haute Hijab is the leading website for modest women and is so succesful. As half was a skype interview, we were
She didn’t know that much about her
It the idea a lot of validity. The interview
competition and didn’t have much
helped to establish a gap in the market. She
information regarding why women with
endorsed the idea of a modest concession
no particular faith would still want to
and doesn’t know why it doesn’t already
dress modestly.
exist on the market. She offered to help with any advice once the project is more
able to see eachothers expressions
underway and in an advisory capacity.
and have a relaxed conversation.
165
Research method
Mormon Interview
Sample size
1
Purpose
To gain more information about modesty from a Mormon point of view and to compare it with other religons.
Research Focus Group
To gain insight from modest
6
women
from
different
faiths and backgrounds and those with no particular faith or religon.
8
To gain furthur insight into preferred styles and shopping habbits.
Flip book
166
Strengths
Weakness
Outcomes
It was face to face so it was a
She was part of the baby boomer
The demand to dress modestly and
relaxed conversation. It was
generation and it has already
stylishly isn’t as high for this generation
an opportunity to find out
been
as it is for the younger women. The
information about Mormons,
consumer is generation Y.
established
that
the
emphasis is on being ‘well turned out’
first hand.
Insight take
rather than being fashionable.
into
where
inspiration
they
(bloggers,
celebrities), where they shop, how they dress. It was useful to get to know the consumer in a relaxred environment and make notes while they interact.
Excercise
was
fun
and
engaging and encouraged them to feel relaxed along with generating lots of ideas. It
allowed
women
who
didn’t speak English as a first language to still take part.
over
Defined that the target market is late
eachother while others were more
majority, Generation Y modest wome
shy about speaking in public. There
as it was evident from listening to them
was time over at the end which
that they were unanimous there was a
could have been used better if the
gap in the market.
Some
people
spoke
questionnaire had gone a bit more in depth. Older women thought that dressing stylishly
It confirmed that older women are
is contradictory and detracts from the idea
the target market as all of them said they
of modesty. Younger women said they liked
like to play it safe with what they wear.
the looks and wanted to know where to get
Some of the combinations in the flip book
them but they were just put together for
were too daring. However, this generated
primark research and were not neccesarily
conversation about what items in their view
representative of what is on the high street.
went together.
167
not
Research method
Empathetic research (shopping
Sample size
Purpose
There was a day spent
3
shopping dressed modestly
Expidition and day in the life
with modest women to
experiment)
get in the minds of the consumer and understand their shopping cycle and habbits.
Japan research - Ethnography
To gain insight on another
N/A
cultures outlook on modesty.
To examine the street style Street style
24
in London and Nottingham and whether there were demographic
differences
regarding modesty.
168
Strengths
Weakness
Outcomes
Asked questions and observed the
It was a very tiring experience so when it
The shopping trip lasted over 8 hours
shopping behaviours of consumers.
came to record feelings at the end, some
and really showed the diffuculty in
Recorded the feelings that this
thoughts were forgotton. They often
finding modest and stylish clothing was
experience generated provided an
found modest items in one shop but
very clear. Having to go from shop to
insight into the modest womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
had to go to many other shops to find
shop made it apparent that some sort of
lifestyle. Insight was gained about
something to pair it with and going back
service to make this easier is needed.
how it feels to be â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;in their shoesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.
and forth wasted a lot of time.
It was interesting to see the variation of women living in Japan, comparing the traditional style to the harajuku girls and to what young people wear generally. It broadened cultural
Interviews were attempted but not
Suprisingly, although the harajuku girls
enough people spoke English well
looked outrageous, some of them were
enough to get a large enough quota
still adhering to the rules of modesty. It is
of respondants.
clear that modesty is deeply embedded in other cultures. Younger women were
knowledge. Videos and photographs
as interested in what the researchers
were useful in the place of interviews.
wore as the other way round.
The opportunity to compare
Crowded areas made it diffucult
Clear idea of what people are pairing
two large cities (north and
to take close up photographs.
with what. People that were walking
south of the country.) Having
Sometimes it took a long time to see
around Covent garden were less modest
a DLR camera meant the
people wearing completely modest
then people in Nottingham city centre.
photographs
outfits, especially in Covent garden.
It was clear that modest fashion is a
better
quality
current trend.
than a smart phone camera.
169
Research method
Sample size
N/A
Purpose
To
show
how
Vogue
covers have changed in
Exhibiton: Vogue cover
100 years.
8
To propose the idea of a
Big idea Focus group
â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;service to appeal to the modern modest womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and see if it is something that would appeal to them.
To
3
contact
women
who
are already trying to dress modestly and stylishly online.
Modest bloggers
170
Strengths
Weakness
Outcomes
It was easy to look around,
Clear how modesty became less
It showed that the covers were
well laid out and had original
important and could see how the
originally works of art, rather
art work on view.
emphasis is no longer all about
than commerical photographs.
elegance. It would seem that over the years it has lost its identity and individual style.
It gave the women in the group an opportunity to comment on what they thought was missing. It was a relaxed enviroment and a free discussion. Having learnt from previous focus groups, care
Some of the women knew eachother
There was a huge response and it was
so they sometimes answered as
clear that it is a big gap in the market.
a group rather than individually.
The response was very positive and
There were political and Economical
they were very enthusiastic about
aspects that I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t thought of.
Fig. It also gave a lot of points that needed to be address (eg PEST)
was taken to ensure there were enough questions to fill the time. It was useful to see how the
As they are busy, a lot of the emails
These
women described their style and
were quite short and not as in depth
contacts when developing a brand
what they wore.
as they would have been if they were
as potential brand ambassadors or
interviewed in person.
used for a features page of a website.
171
women
could
be
good
Research method
VM
Sample size
Purpose
To look at what the high
2
street shops are offering and
what
could
be
adapted for the modest woman.
To gain insight into the Rabbis wife Interview
style of dressing of a high
1
profile woman in the Jewish community.
To look at Botticelliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paintings and Exhibiton:
N/A
see how they have influenced other artists and how they have been
Botticelli Reimagined
adapted and used from advertising to clothing from the time they were painted to the present day.
172
Strengths
Weakness
Photographs were taken and can refer back to them throughout. It was helpful to see what is currently being offered by the high street and how visual merchandisers are displaying modest clothing.
A
lot
of
Outcomes
shops
didn’t
allow
photographs to be taken of the dispalys or mannequins. It was also quite busy so in some shops, it was hard to get clear photographs.
Maxi skirts were often paired with bralets and visa versa. The gap in the market was made even more evident and it was also clear that these shops do appeal to generation Y modest women but the clothes aren’t paired together in a modest way.
Although
it
was
an
interview, she was extremely helpful and informative. Her knowledge of history of clothing was also interesting. Because she
She could only show me items of
She is at the top of the target
her clothing by phtotograph and it
consumer and it is clear from her
would have been useful to look in
conversation that she is interested
her wardrobe.
in style and looking chic rather than being highly fashionable or on trend.
is so stylish, she is an inspiration to women that meet her. Interesting to see how famous
As he painted a lot of nude images, it
paintings stay relevant through
wasn’t particularly useful for modesty
the centuries. The images are
but was a very interesting exhibition in
brought to new generations of
itself.
As he painted a lot of nudity, his paintings dissapeared for a number of years because people considered them too immodest to be shown in public and it wasn’t rediscovered untill the pre-
people in different ways.
raphaelites.
173
Research method
Series of history of Jewish clothing talks
Sample size
Approx 12
Purpose
To learn about the history of Jewish clothing.
174
Strengths
Learning about how Jewish clothing has been adapted over the years to suit different demographics and cultures. Learning about history
Weakness
Outcomes
There were only prepared sheets of
It
photographs to make notes on for
information to one part of the
the first part of the series.
modesty landscape.
alongside fashion was interesting. There were lots of images on the power point presentation to illustrate the talk.
175
was
fascinating
background
Consent Forms
176
177
Tutorial record sheets
178
179
Formative Presenntation Feedback
180
181
Draft Feedback
182
183
Declaration Sheet
184
Ethical Checklist Fashion Communication and Promotion Negotiated Project: FASH30138 Michelle Hughs / Matt Gill 5 months Modesty
185
Critical Path
186
187
Primary Research Melanie Elturk (Haute Hijab) - Interview 1. Haute Hijab company has been active since 2010. Has the image of the brand changed since the beginning? I’ve tried my best to remain consistent with the image of the brand since we started – the most notable change is probably that I am more open as the face of the brand, or the driving force behind the brand. This started in 2012 or so when we got very active on Instagram. Up until that point I wasn’t really putting myself out there as the face of Haute Hijab. 2. Haute Hijab has a strong online presence through Facebook and Instagram with a solid fanbase. Do you promote the brand and products offline as well? (Via fashion shows, magazine ads etc) No, we don’t actually. To date, we haven’t promoted the brand offline. 3. What makes Haute Hijab unique in comparison to its competitors? What makes Haute Hijab appeal so strongly to Muslim women worldwide? We were definitely one of the earlier companies to pop up so that might help, but above that I think people have come to expect a certain level of professionalism, quality and care when it comes to our brand. We hold ourselves to a very high standard and I think people pick up on that. People feel safe shopping with us and they know they’ll be taken care of if anything goes wrong. We also have worked very hard at creating a community around our brand. I’ve received messages from so many women who say they shop with us because they want to support us and the message surrounding our brand. 4. Is creating fashion in accordance to the Islamic values challenging? If yes,how so? Not really. As a Muslim woman who’s worn hijab for over 15 years, dressing stylishly while adhering to Islamic guidelines of modesty has become second nature for me. It’s actually a very fun process to design boundaries because you have to be creative in order to come up with innovative designs. 5. What are, to you, the top 3 brands that you admire? What about them appeals To you?
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J.Crew, ralph lauren and prada. I love that j.Crew is constantly changing to meet the Needs of its customers. I love that they have amazing customer service, their designs are Classic as well as innovative and the quality is impeccable. I also love that you can get a Great deal every once in a while. What I love about ralph lauren is the design and elegance. Ralph lauren has stayed true To its image since day one. You can often spot a ralph lauren outfit from a mile away – It’s that consistent – and beautiful to boot! I truly admire ralph lauren not only as a brand, But as a fashion designer. Prada is my favorite high-end designer for its timeless heritage. The history is appealing and their designs are timeless. You can never go wrong with Prada. 6. My dissertation proposal idea is potentially, to create a modest fashionable concession in perhaps topshop or a department store. Why do you think this hasn’t been done before? Interesting question! We are solely an online brand.However, I don’t really know why modern modest clothing isn’t a concession on the high street! I think there is an assumption that islamic, and modest women in general, don’t care about fashion which is of course, untrue. I think it is a huge gap in the market and would have a massive consumer base, especially in the uk. 7. What are the 3 most important values that haute hijab has and wishes to Communicate to your cons? 1) stay true to yourself/know who you are/who you want to be 2) invest in fewer, better things 3) never let hijab limit you from doing what you want
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Shopping Expidition Reflections
Today, i went to oxford street with three modest women and we were there for nine hours. we started the trip in ‘topshop’ as it was straight opposite the station, therefore the most convinent. we were looking for a couple of hours and all the girls got a few t-shirts to try on. only elise ended up buying a shirt and couldn’t find any skirts to go with it in topshop. We then went into american apparel as to my suprise, they had a variation of maxi skirts. elise wanted one that was white as the top she bought was navy. they had a suitable skirt and she was going to buy it but then decided that £60 was too much to spend on a skirt. we then went into m&s and none of the girls found anything. we went into zara and natasha found a long sleeved yellow summer dress that she bought whilst admitting ‘i bet i’ll never wear it” Elise still hadn’t found her skirt so we tried dorothy perkins. there, she found a skirt but it was too big. it was £15 so she bought it but we still needed to find a belt. in next, she bought a tanned belt. in total, elise spent £50 on the whole outfit and she was happy with that. we spent the rest of the day looking for outfits for natasha and sara but nothing else was bought. i now really understand the struggle these women have to find fashionable modest clothing at a good price. i was able to see that zara and next were the most modest shops we went into (this will be useful when plotting brands on the perceptual map.) These women are the consumers of a potential service. to further this research, i decided to put myself in these women’s shoes. today, myself and three friends dressed modestly and went shopping for the day. i wanted to really get to know the consumer and try to find an outfit that was my style and on trend. After a whole day of shopping, i found a nude blouse and silky skit that i quite liked but wasn’t really what i was after. the other two girls were more picky and didn’t find any bits.
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Blogger responses
‘hi chloe, Thank you for your email, glad you like my blog! To answer your question about the reason I am Modest, I am not modest for religious reasons but instead for my body type. Although they do offer curve sections most of it doesn’t appeal to me. As I find a lot of it inappropriate and ill fitting. It isn’t that I only wear baggy things, I just don’t like my clothes clinging to me! I am able to find the occasional item on asos or topshop and I actually got a couple of beach things for my holiday that weren’t too bad. But on the whole, I prefer shopping at places specifically for covering up...That way, I don’t have to worry about anything popping out! All the fashionable modest places are all online really, as although there is a modest shop near me in north london, it is pretty out of date and old fashioned.’ ‘hi chloe, I am catholic and I do like to stay modest with what I wear (as you probably can see from my instagram/twitter pics) the thing with modest clothing is, I will find the same style of blouse in every shop I go. Conventional fashion items are either too form-fitting or too short. I am always putting tshirts under my pinafores and dresses and I just end up looking so old fashioned. I wish I could walk into a shop on oxford street and go into the modest bit, rather than trecking round to find the one off appropriate skirt or blouse (which usually is the last season anyway) I try to keep my outfits interesting as I know people follow my accounts but I do find it hard to get inspired these days. There are a lot of up coming modest bloggers who put their outfits online but there is so little choice on the high street, it is hard not to copy them. Primark are quite good but there is never visual merchandising that I can look at. If they did have a long skirt up on a mannequin, I garuntee it would be up there with a tiny crop or something that I cannot buy.’ ‘hey there chloe! Thanks for getting in touch, lovely to hear that u are a fan of my instagram! I don’t find it too hard to get my modest looks! There is sooo much out there at the moment in terms of what is in the cat walks to what the celebrities are wearing and although u can’t shop ‘the look’ on missguided, boohoo, or asos like other trends...I am able to go round the shops, find things I can wear and put it together in a cool way. Take last week for example, I bought the cutest suede maxi from topshop and spent about five hours trying to find a polo flared white top to pair it with and eventually found one in debenhams! I suppose it is a bit annoying that it took so long and wasn’t available in one place but I just wouldn’t buy my outfits online. The odd thing, fine, but I prefer to be able to try things on so I know how they fit. I always feel more comfortable spending money on items I can see, feel and try! I hope this was an ok answer! Email or dm me whenever you want and I am happy to send you back my answers/record them/whatever is best for you! Good luck and let me know how it goes!’
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Interview [1]
Me: I [interviewer] Kim: k [43 yrs] Brocha: b [46 yrs] Interviewer: I [21 yrs] I; hi thank you so much for meeting with me and answering my questions. So firstly, as modest women, what does it mean to you to dress modestly? K: everything. I have always dressed modestly and I always will. I have never known anything else. B: same, well, I havn’t always dressed modestly as I used to not be religious when I was growing up and I would wear anything and everything. I never really cared about style or trend. I: that leads me to my next question. Do you care about trend? B: not really. I mean I want to look nice for my husband but I am not interested in keeping up with the latest fashions. K: same, I like to look at the celebs I have to admit, it is my guilty pleasure! But when I go shopping, I don’t think to myself ‘ooh, I saw angelina jolie wearing something like that, therefore I am going to buy it” B: you know saying that, I think that the younger modest generation are very influenced with things like that as nowadays it is quite rare to see the stars having their bodies covered like that kardashian family so I think if a younger girl was to see a modest outfit they liked that actually made it to the catwalk, they would try to get an alternative. I: where do you think they would go to purchase this ‘alternative’ B: I don’t really know where they shop, I only know all of this because I have jewish students that come to me on friday nights for a shabbat meal and this is just something I have heard them discussing. I wouldn’t even know what a kardashian was if it wasn’t for them! K: yes I have never heard of them I: so bringing it back to you two, how often would you say that you go shoppng? K: I have to admit, I am hardly ever shopping. If I ’m at sainsbury’s I may look in the clothing department or I occasionally look in oxfam. B: I tend to do a bit more shopping then that. I will look around the victoria centre and buy a few bits here and there. I also like to shop on asos as I have an account and find it quite easy to use. It’s pretty much just long sleeved shirts and blouses that I ’m buying and tshirts to go over them. I: would you say that is your “style”? B: um, I suppose so but it isn’t really personal to me. Most of the women in the community are layering their clothing. It covers all the right places and I think it looks funky. K: I literally just buy anything that’s plain and simple really. If it doesn’t catch the adverage person’s eye, it catches mine! I: what do you all prefer? Shopping online or in store? K: If I am already out, it is quicker and easier to just pick soemthing up from the shops! B:
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Interview [2]
A - Angela C – Chloe (Interviewer) C. Hi Angela thank you for agreeing to have a quick chat to help with my dissertation A. You’re welcome what would you like to know C. Firstly I know you dress modestly, but how important is it for you to also look fashionable? A. To be honest fashionability is not that important to me although it was when I was younger but mainly because I wanted to fit in and not feel too different from my non-Mormon friends. C. I know you have a daughter in her late teens, does she feel the same way that you did? A. Yes very much so and although I can empathize with her I do get a bit involved with what she wears. All of us parents are quite strict about dressing codes with our daughters, even down to their underwear! C. What are the things you are most strict about? A. We are strict Christian and insist that they don’t show their tummies and that their skirts are close to knee length and shoulders are covered. Also we don’t wear trousers except for exercise. I have to say, working in a school, I would find it more practical to be able to wear trousers but never mind. C. What about elbows? A. Sleeves don’t have to be long. Cap or short sleeves are fine. Us older women tend to cover up in neat cardigans. A. Oh and also no tattoos or piercings except one set of ear rings C. What would you say were the key words to describe the Christian way of dressing? A. We like to be neat, tidy, well groomed, professional if at work, tailored, smart, conservative, sensible… is that enough?! C. Do you take a pride in how you dress? A. Yes I try to dress with all those things in mind. On Sundays and holidays, I taken even more care to look as best I can and do literally have a pile of Sunday best clothes which I keep in a separate part of my wardrobe. C. Do you buy most of your clothes in stores or online? A. I was brought up shopping in certain suitable shops so I do still do that because I believe you can only really tell how something will fit and drape by trying it on. I have tried the odd online purchase but I have always had to send them back as materials haven’t been what I thought or they are too fitted and clingy. Perhaps an American LDS website might work better as you could be safe that the clothes are tried and tested. I might try that one day. C. Thanks for talking to me and giving up your time A. You know you are welcome and feel free to ask anything else you may think of later
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Interview [3] From: Ilana Epstein <IEpstein@theus.org.uk> Sent: 19 April 2016 18:11 To: Chloe Lebow Subject: RE: modest thesis Hi Chloe, Thank you for your questions I will answer them as best I can in your emaial below, just as an aside my name is Ilana. All the best and good luck with your course. Ilana From: Chloe Lebow [chloelebow19@hotmail.co.uk] Sent: 18 July 2016 18:46 To: Ilana Epstein <IEpstein@theus.org.uk> Subject: modest thesis Dear Esther, I wonder if you wouldn't mind answering these questions as part of my degree dissertaion. The subject is Modesty in fashion and I am doing a degree in fashion communication and promotion at Nottingham Trent University. You don't need to answer all the questions and you may be able to add your own points or thoughts How important is it for you to dress fashionably? It is not so important to be fashionable, although I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like to look old fashioned so I would say that it is more important I look classy. What are the most important things you consider when choosing a new outfit?
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How fat do I look? How much does it cost? Do I need to put something under /over to meet my level of modest dressing? If it age appropriate?
Do you buy mostly online or in stores? Both
Do you ever make your own clothes or adapt clothes that you buy? Rarely if ever (maybe once in the last ten years â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for a brides maid dress
Have you always dressed modestly? No
If not, was it hard to make the changes? I did it gradually, and at my own rate, to my own degree
Have you found it easier in the last year or so to find suitable modest clothing than before? Yes
Do your children listen to you regarding what clothes they choose? Not always. Do you wear different sheitels according to what you are wearing? Depending on the event, that often dictates what Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m wearing as well
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Your style is quite modern, is that unusual for a Rebbetzin? I would say that its 50 – 50
As an historian, would you say that modest dressing is adapting with the times? Its hard to say, I think that this would require a lot of evidence based answers, but I would say the recent advent of beautifully dressed modest Muslim women has made covering up, perhaps less taboo. Much as covering up during the Victorian era was admired, while during the Regency era it would have been considered dowdy to cover up.
What do you think of the traditional, style of plain, black skirts, tops and head pieces? I have just bought myself a beautiful skirt and top from the jaeger sale, let me know what you think from the images below:
Wool Jet Detail Wrap Skirt Compact Knitted T-Shirt Though on me the shirt sleeve covers my elbow…
Do you dress differently for work? I work 6 days a week, so on the weekend my style is more relaxed, trainers, denim skirt, big comfy jumpers
As an educator, are there any lessons we can learn about dressing modestly? It feels really good, to look good, I find people take you more seriously if you take yourself seriously and the first way to show that you value yourself is in the way you dress. And as an aside I find it alluring to leave some things covered up…
I hope you don't mind me taking up your time and Ireally do appreciate it Thank you Chloe lebow
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Dear Ilana, ( I knew that was your name so I have no idea why I wrote Esther! ...apologies)
Thank you so much for replying promptly to my email
I had meant to meet and talk about the disserattion with you but I missed my deadline due to anxiety and and now am running out of time again.
I like your new outfit, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chic and modern
Just one more question... I was wondering, as you didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always dress modestly, how do you find the difference, do you prefer it and does it give you a kind of freedom?
Thanks again
kind regards Chloe
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Hi Chloe,
No worries about the name mix up.
The biggest difference I find, because I guess in my own way I always dressed modestly, I always wore shirts with some kind of sleeve even if not all that long, I never wore skirts that were super short. The big difference , and the one I still find challenging. Is that jeans were my go to item, I could dress them up or down and felt that I could fit almost everywhere, outside work. In terms of freedom, are you asking whether having less choice means that I have freedom of limited choices, and les pressure to tone up my upper arms? I guess I haven’t thought about it too much, as I have always looked at clothing that would make me look my best and something well cut, expensive and modest seems the most flattering to my shape. And I find that the clothing brands that I gravitate to, like jaeger, jigsaw, mint velvet, riess, whistle tend to be by nature modest.
I do though have a rule, I am willing to out something underneath, say a tight three quarter length sleeve shirt, or a tight skirt. But I will not ever buy something that requires two items of under clothing. And my preference is always for something that naturally doesn’t need any additional items, as I think that the designers did not intend for them to be worn that way. One the other hand I’m wearing a lace top today, no matter my level of modesty I wouldn’t ever wear it on its own, with say only my bra underneath.
I hope this was of some help, All the best, Ilana
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Flip book
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Day in the life
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Infographic
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Online survey Where do you shop for Modest Clothes? • Department Store • Specialty shop • Online High-Street Shop • Online Specialty-Shop • Market • Other: How often do you go shopping for Modest Clothing? • Everyday • 1-5 times a week • 1-5 times a month • 1-5 times a year • Never Which of the following items are you likely to shop frequently for? • Long Skirts • Long-Sleeved Tops/Blouses/Shirts • Accessories • Long Trousers/Pants/Jeans • Maxi Dress/Long Dress • Outerwear • Other 202
Which of the following items are you likely to spend most money on? • Accessories • Long-Sleeved Tops/Blouses/Shirts • Long Skirts • Long Trousers/Pants/Jeans • Maxi Dress/Long Dress • Outerwear • Other How much have you spent on clothes in the last 2 weeks? • Less than £10 • Between £10-£30 • Between £30-£50 • Between £50-£100 • Between £100-£200 • More than £200 • Other How much would you spend on modestly-styled Workwear in a month? *For respondents outside the UK, please answer in terms of your own country’s currency (ie: do not convert to UK pound). • Less than £10 • Between £10-£30 • Between £30-£50 • Between £50-£100 • Between £100-£200 • More than £200 203
Street Questionnaire
PERSON 1: ‘Covered yet well worn’
PERSON 2: ‘Fashion alongside religion’
PERSON 3: ‘that you cover up your privacy.’
PERSON 4:’ motivated by shame’
PERSON 5:’ basically the same as humble’
PERSON 6: ‘Loose clothing that conceals the body, yet still looks nice’
PERSON 7: ‘cover the knees, cover the shoulder, and no deep clevage or midriff.’
PERSON 8: ‘no big labels, pics or offensive stuff’
PERSON 9: ‘not formal but you should be modest’
PERSON 10: ‘conservative, covered up’
PERSON 11: ‘dressing in a manner that doesn’t automatically arouses lust in someone’ 204
PERSON 12: ‘I don’t think it needs to be long skirts to your ankles, but I think that dressing modestly means dressing in a way so that you ar trying to tempt other men into having lustful thoughts.’
PERSON 13: ‘Modesty to me is clothes that don’t show too much skin’
PERSON 14: ‘shoulders covered’
PERSON 15: ‘Tight clothes arent modest’
PERSON 16: ‘modest dress means wearing something that is flattering without showing too much.’
PERSON 17: ‘I think it is okay for women to show a little skin.’
PERSON 18: ‘skirts that go to my knees’
PERSON 19: ‘ No exposed midrifts or super-miniskirts.’
PERSON 20: ‘To be modest in a clothing sense is to dress without revealing too much.’ PERSON 21: ‘one can look attractive and modest’
PERSON 22: ‘shirts that aren’t low’
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PERSON 23: ‘much better than revealing too much and appearing tacky or tarty.’
PERSON 24: ‘ i don’t really know what is allowed and what isn’t religously but i do know modesty is in fashion at the moment’
PERSON 25: ‘Elbow-length or lower tops’
PERSON 26: ‘Long dresses’
PERSON 27: ‘covering up whilst still enjoying the season’
PERSON 28: ‘It doesn’t mean you have to dress like they did a hundred years ago. At least that is how I see it.’
PERSON 29: ‘to softly conceal the female form.’
PERSON 30: ‘not clothing that allows certain things to “pop out”.’
PERSON 31: ‘being not so revealing. I am actually hoping to buy some bits and pieces that are more modest than the dresses i currently own.’
PERSON 32: ‘clothing should be attractive but not revealing’
PERSON 33: ‘Women all instintively know what is acceptable’
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PERSON 34: ‘It is to dress in a way that becomes a lady.’
PERSON 35: ‘Don’t dress solely to attract male attraction.’
PERSON 36: ‘modesty is being unrevealing as you are a confident person in your own body, it can be a compliment’
PERSON 37: ‘like when you wear a long skirt is ‘modest’ and somethingg covering your body and not really revealing its modest. it shows you are mature and are not an attention seeker’
PERSON 38:’ it means your not too revealing - dresses appropriately’
PERSON 39: ‘to dress in a way that covers your body - polite, smart, shy,decent’
PERSON 40: ‘something I would wear when around children or at church’
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Focus Group me: i [interviewer] sarah: s [21] ele: e [20] andria: a [28] emma: e [21] yuenkie: y [23] i; hi thank you so much for meeting with me and answering my questions. so firstly, as modest women, what does it mean to you to dress modestly? e: i have always dressed modestly since i was little, so for me it is like a way of life. y: same, it is all i know and all my family along with the majority of my friends dress modestly. e: yeah, someone once asked me if i get jelous of girls that get to wear backless or shorter dresses and i donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t because i enjoy dressing respectfully and modestly even if it is hard to be on trend sometimes. s: i have actually only started to dress modestly within the last couple of years as i am jewish and come from a very reform background. the man i am with is more religous than me and i started to also follow the torah a bit more and ultimatley, dress in a more respectful way. it makes me feel like a more modest person when i dress modestly. a: personally, i am an atheist and i dress modestly simply because i feel more comfortable that way and chloe can tell you all, i have never been one to wear short mini skirts even when i was a lot smaller than i am now! i just prefer to be covered up! i: thanks, the second question is, where do you all like to shop? e: topshop is my all time favourite shop but mainly i am just looking at the clothes! a: yeah i noticed that this summer there was a lot of that boho stuff in but there was nothing much i could really wear! y: i did find a couple of cute maxis in topshop. i find more modest clothing in department stores though like the selfridges concessions or bhs or somewhere like that. y: yeah i do find a lot in department stores too. s: really? i generally find that department store clothing is aimed at older women, especially the modest clothing. 208
a: well yeah, generally all modest clothing is pretty old fashioned and simple. i wish they made flared sleeved maxi dresses that were on trend this summer with high necklines. to be fair, i do get quite jelous of girls i see on instagram that are all into fashion as i would love to instagram outfits but i don’t think anything i wear is on trend or nice enough to do that if you get me. e: yeah but saying that, i follow quite a few modest bloggers on social media and they do look so good and theres quite a few online modest faith sites that are trying to keep up with the trends. y: yeah i am constantly looking at modest bloggers pages but i can’t put outfits together like they can. i wish there were lookbooks and mannequins in popular shops where i can copy their outfits! a: hahahaha, yeah i am rubbish at putting things together without any inspo. i have seen some of those new modest fashion wensites though but i prefer shopping in person, like i like to be able to actually see what im buying rather than going through the hassel of sending it all back! i: that leads me to my next question actually! what do you all prefer? shopping online or in store? a: ‘i prefer to be able to try things on so i know how they fit. i always feel more comfortable spending money on items i can see, feel and try. e: 100% in person, so much funner! although shoppping online can be easier. s: yeah i find shopping online easier because it’s too hard to find modest clothing, shlapping from shop to shop. online you can just open new tabs.although i still do have to go through hundreds of pages of skirts and tops untill i find an appropriate, nice outfit. y: i have tried a couple of the modest websites that are meant to be really fashionable. i bought a black turtle neck dress from ‘shukrr’ and i also got a couple of things from ‘mayasaa.’ e: really? how was that because all these sites are fairly new, fashionable modest clothing is 100% something that is getting bigger. a few years ago, i swear i used to get looked at in the street for my high necks and long skirts. y: well they fit ok but i probably wouldn’t have bought it if it was in a shop but i don’t really want to pay for postage to send it back. if they had their own store or something, i would shop at them ten times more. i probably won’t be visiting the site for a good few months. a: yeah, i’ve looked on those sites too and i dont know, i know that they are trying to be in fashion but there’s something about it that doesn’t work. i: what do you think that is? a: i don’t know really. i think that most of the sites are aimed specifically for religons ie, jewish or muslim people as the websites are advertised and promoted this way, not that there is anything wrong with that...i just think that to be really on trend, it has to be open with no mention of faith, just simply...modest clothing.
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e: i couldn’t agree more. there are sooo many celebs at the moment rocking modesty and these new online sites could be using them for like, ‘get the look’ pages but they aren’t. modesty should be like jeans or like curve sections do you know what i mean? i: do you think it would be beneficial to have a fashionable modest concession in high street or department stores? e: yep, that would honestly be a dream, to be able to go onto selfridges or that big topshop on oxford street and head over to a modest section would be so easy. s: i would be in my element! to be able to look at the mannequins that are completley modest and fashionable or pick up a brandzine with the styles in would be great. i hate not knowing what to wear and having to spend hours online to find things i like. a: it would be incredible and would appeal to so so many people, not just the religous. y: in all honesty, the world has got to the worst it can get to in terms of provocativness. the kardashians for example had naked photoshoots last year, and over the past couple of months, they have been photographed in long dresses and waist coats. i just think in terms of celebs and their photoshoots and music videos, they have got to the furthest they can go without taking all of their clothes off! the only option i see is to go back to being modest. e: yeah... i have noticed that too. having this would honestly change the world! it would appeal to so many different types of people you probably havn’t even thought about and if it was to happen, it has the potential to be massive. s: something we would all rush to town for, yeah. i: thanks guys. so next, what type of clothing do you spend the most time shopping for? y: i would definatley say tops. tops is something i need all the time, all year round. i usually buy just a round neck long sleeved black or white one from topshop or house of fraser or even asda. i can never seem to find coloured or patterned ones that don’t go too low. s: same, i have a couple from h&m a few months back, but usually i wear black white or grey long sleeved tops and wear a dress ontop. i wish i didn’t have to dress like that though! e: do you look at what the bloggers are wearing? s: yeah i do but they buy from weird international places more often than not and a lot of things are sold out. especially this year, the modest fashionable items i did see, like long flared swing dresses, literally sold out so quickly and it is so annoying because people probably bought it who wear crop tops and here i am with a closet full of polo tunics! y: hahhaha yeah. i think i shop for dresses quite a bit too to be honest. i; what kind of dresses?
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y: casual ones mainly, just for socialising or whatever. s: yeah, ive been buying quite a few work dresses which are quite cute, but annoying for summer because i have to wear them over black tights and long tops and i get so hot! i just couldn’t find any floaty clothes that were appropriate for the office. a: talking about things not being appropriate i am currently hunting for a modest wedding dress and having an absolute nightmare. e: i remember the pain, i went through it all with my sister last year. she got hers specially made, is that what you are having to do? a: it looks like it. i just hate having to decide myself what it is going to look like. i wish i could just go into a wedding dress shop and try on a dress and say ‘that’s the one’ i hate that i am having to make these decisions.there is no such thing as a modest wedding dress! e: yeah she felt the same, i mean she did find a couple of nice dresses in jewish wedding shops but they were all quite old fashioned nothing was up to date. y: that is a real gap in the market for sure. a: yeah, a modest wedding dress brnad that is on the cutting edge of fashion, that follows all the modesty requirments and is amazing enough to be in the magazines! y: absolutley. it is pretty much impossible to find an affordable, beautiful on trend wedding gown that meets all the requirements. having them specially made just isn’t the same. i: that’s something i will certainly look into, thank you. so next, have you guys attended any modest fashion events? for instance, have you been to the ‘modest fashion awards’ a: no! i didn’t even know that existed. y: yeah i have never heard of that. s: i saw something about it over on instagram but i can’t really remember. a: i certainly would have gone if i would have been aware ot it. i: next, how would you all describe youe personal style? a: well, as i am concious of my weight i find it hard to find a style. i just tend to grab anything that doesn’t cling to me or showcase my figure. s: i would say that my style is simple and monochrome...like the olsen twins! well, i wish it was like the olsen twins atleast! e: i want to be indie or at least a bit unique but i find it impossible to have my own style.all i wanted was to dress according to this summer’s boho and festival looks but i just couldn’t find the right stuff.
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y: yeah i find it hard too to be honest. i will find the same style of blouse in every shop. conventional fashion items are either too form-fitting or too short. i also find it hard to get inspired by inspirational modest bloggers and celebrity looks without copying them exactly. i often have to adapt garments by adding an underskirt or t-shirt. a: yeah, i also dress the same too. i buy things from the curve section too sometimes as long as it isn’t inappropriate or ill fitting. s: i would say my style is very denim. i know denim is in so i bought a couple of cute denim long skirts which took me about three hours to find and i finally did on page 40 on google! i: what magazines do you guys read? do you look at mags for fashion advice or inspo? e: i only really look at fashion mags when i am at the doctors or hairdressers or something and i never really see any outfits that i can wear but if i do, i make sure to take a pic! y: yeah, if i am flicking through a magazine and i see an outfit i can wear, i legit rip it out and put it in my pocket! i do subscribe to vogue and i read company online. even though i can’t wear the majority of what’s out there, i still love to look and read about it all. s: i literally have every single magazine and june/july 2015 is full as in, jam packed with celebs wearing modest clothing. there was so many golden globe outfits that were modest too and i also saw a few long skirts or long tops in the blogger section of ‘style’ magazine. a: yeah i saw some bits in ‘style’ but by the time i got to topshop, the things i saw had gone. i am mainly reading brandzines. i always pick them up to flick through and see if there is anything i can wear. e: i always look at brandzines too. it is a lot easier for us as most girls look through all the pages seeing what clothes they may want to buy but with us, we just flick through each page untill something appropriate crops up and if i see it in somewhere fashionable like topshop or urban outfitters, i pretty much buy it straight away in case it sells out and it would haunt me! y: nothing haunts you like the things you didn’t buy! s: yeah we are so limited for choice, if something is fashionable and modest we don’t have time to start umming and arring about it and showing it to our friends we kind of have to just buy it! but if there was a concession like we said before, where it was all modest and all really fashionable...it would make things so much simpler! y: agreed!
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i: thank you so much for your time, your answers have been very useful and have really helped me with my primary research! i will develop the idea further and come back to you guys with more questions when that’s all done if that’s okay. e: yep that’s absolutley fine s: feel free to call, text, or email whenever you want y: yeah i am happy to help and it was really interesting discussing it with all of you!
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Modest street style
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VM
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Cartograms
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Initial Research
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Big Idea
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Infographics
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Whole arm covered Elbows covered
Neck covered Trousers
Collar bone covered
Sandals Heels
Not too bright ± especially not red
No bare legs No slits in skirts No trousers No linen/wool mix
Jewellery
Not too tight No sheer
Trousers
Strapless
Sandals
Ok with t-shirt under modest neckline
Crop tops if meet waist line No halter necks No straples High waisline
Skirt max 2 inches above the knee
Simply jewellery Any colors
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Shoulders covered No cross dressing
PERCENTAGES OF TIME USERS SPEND ON
SOCIAL MEDIA
SOCIAL NETWORKS/BLOGS
21.3%
ONLINE GAMES
7.7%
OTHER
56.5%
6.5% VIDEOS/MOVIES
4.3% Check out the new maxi shirts on the Zara website!
PORTALS
3.8%
<RX FDQµW send that Snapchat!
TRIPLE ICON
PICTURE CHART WITH SPACE ACTRESSES
ROYALTY/POLITICIANS
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WOMEN IN MEDIA
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Marketing models
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AWARENESS
CONSIDERATION
ROGERS MARKETING FUNNEL
PREFERENCE
ACTION
LOYALTY
ADVOCACY
MARKETING COLLATERAL
AIDA MODEL AWARENESS
6RFLDO 0HGLD ZLOO NHHS XS DZDUHQHVV DERXW )LJ )LJµV GHVLJQ UHFLSH ZLOO DOVR KHOS JHW awareness. Fig wants consumers to feel impatient for the next post.
INTEREST To maintain interest, Fig will update its contents regularly and keep the consumer involved. Consumers will 'like', follow and subscribe.
DESIRE
)LJµV FRPSHWLWLRQV LQYROYH FRQVXPHUV ZLOO LQLWLDWH GHVLUH DORQJ ZLWK RIIHUV DQG discounts. Consumers are connected and they know, like and trust Fig.
ACTION Consumers will use Fig to as their number one modes clothing designation
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SOCIAL MEDIA
ENGAGEMENT APPAREL
CONSUMER PRODUCTS
RETAIL
SWOT WEAKNESS
Â&#x2021; Will be successful in providing inspiration for target consumer
Â&#x2021; Despite primary and secondary showing generation y as the right target market, there will be some consumers who will not be interested in the lookbook or changing their style
Â&#x2021; Promotes the other brands including Zara, asos topshop etc. Â&#x2021; Support the growing modesty movement
Â&#x2021; High start-up costs
Â&#x2021; Raises awareness and popularity about
Â&#x2021; The look book could be discarded without being read Â&#x2021; Social platform for e-commerce is a niche
OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
Â&#x2021; To participate at an event (e.g., have a stand) where different brands can attend and showcase modest outfits
Â&#x2021; Some consumers may not like the other brand sites that they are diverted take you to so lose interest?
Â&#x2021; Once profits increase, could feature clothing from high end fashion houses
Â&#x2021; Some consumers may not like online shopping and prefer to see and feel items first
Â&#x2021; Promoting growth in the modest industry
Â&#x2021; As the brand establishes itself, consumers may be more familiar with choosing stylish modest outfits so they may not use the site as much and instead source clothing themselves
Â&#x2021; Helping to give recognition and identity to faith groups
Â&#x2021; $V WKH PDUNHW LV FRQWLQXLQJ WR JURZ WKHUHÂśV D WKUHDW RI PRUH competition
EXTERNAL FACTORS Are changes that are out of your control. This can include: social-cultural changes, technological developments, new legislations etc.
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HARMFUL
BENEFICIAL
STRENGTHS
HARMFUL
BENEFICIAL
ANALYSIS
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Mood Boards
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In all honesty, the world has got to the worst it can get to in terms of provocativeness
The only option I see is to go back to being modest
I just think in terms of celebs and their photo shoots and music videos, they have got to the furthest they can go without taking their clothes off
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Logo Development
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