3000 BC 800 AD
Cotton was being grown in the Indus River Valley, Pakistan. At the same time, Egypt’s Nile Valley natives were making & wearing cotton clothing
Arab merchants brought cotton cloth to Europe.
1492 Columbus discovered Cotton growing in the Bahamas when he discovered America
1690 1730 East India Company introduced cotton to Britain.
Cotton was first spun by Machinery in England during the Industrial revolution
1997
1850
Cave searches in Mexico turned up pieces of cotton balls & cotton cloth that ended up being at the least 7,000 years old.
American slaves made up 50% of the population which produced majority of cotton in the US. (Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana).
1830
1793 A Massachusetts native secured the first Cotton Engin, Gin for short. It could do the work 10 times faster than by hand.
United States producesthe majority of the world’s cotton
CHARACTERISTICS
STRENGTH & DURABILITY Thanks to its molecular structure, Cotton is a highly durable material. It is formed from 90% cellulose. By strength, it means that Cotton is tear-proof. Even after years washing, it will not lose its qualities. SOFTNESS Since Cotton has a close-knit surface structure, it has the best of both worlds; It is both soft and cool. It can even (depending on how it was woven) create an extremely breathable fabric. It is perfect for warmer months as its air pockets are small and does not offer heat protection. It also has a high moisture absorbancy. ALLERGENS Those that suffer dust allergies often are found to enjoy cotton sheets more than the rest on the market. There are studies that show that the mites which trigger said allergies are unable to break the barrier of high quality cotton bed linen. COMFORTABLE ABSORBENT GOOD COLOR RETENTION PRINTS WELL DRAPES WELL EASY TO HANDLE SEW
GLOBAL PRODUCTION
3
9
7
8 4
2 1
5 6
INDIA CHINA UNITED STATES PAKISTAN BRAZIL AUSTRALIA UZBEKISTAN TURKEY TURKMENISTAN
COTTON’S LIFE CYCLE
When harvested, Cotton produc ers (the ones that use conventional tilla ge practices) cut down the cotton stal ks. What happens next is turn the residue underneath the soil surface. Produc ers who practice a style of farming call ed conservation tillage often choose to leave their stalks standing and leave the plant residue on the surface of the soil .
Producers who plant using no-till, use equipment designed to plant the seed through the litter tha t covers the soil surface. Producers who employ conventional tillage practices, plow or “list� the land into rows forming firm seed-beds for planting. Producers in south Texas plant cotton as early as February. In Missouri and other northern parts of the Cotton Belt, they plant as late as June.
Mechanical planters apply a seeding technique which cover 10 to 24 rows at a time. The planter opens a small trench or furrow in each row, drops in the right amount of seed, covers them and packs the earth on top of them. The seed is planted at uniform intervals in either small clumps or singularly. Machines called cultivators are used to uproot weeds and grass, which compete with the cotton plant for soil nutrients, sunlight and water.
Two months after planting , flower buds called squares appear on the cotton plants. The blossoms open in around 3 weeks. Their petals change from creamy white-yellow-pin k then finally, dark red. After thr ee days, they wither and fall, leavin g green pods which are called cotton bolls.
Mechanical planters apply a seeding technique which cover 10 to 24 rows at a time. The planter opens a small trench or furrow in each row, drops in the right amount of seed, covers them and packs the earth on top of them. The seed is planted at uniform intervals in either small clumps or singularly. Machines called cultivators are used to uproot weeds and grass, which compete with the cotton plant for soil nutrients, sunlight and water.
Inside the ball,, moist fibers gro w and push out from the newly formed seeds. As the ball ripens, it tur ns brown. The fibers continue to expand under the warm sun. Finally, they split the ball apart and the flu ffy cotton bursts forth. It looks like white cotton candy.
Since hand labor is no longer used in the U.S. to harvest cotton, the crop is harvested by machines. Machine would be a picker or a stripper. Cotton picking machines have spindles that pick (twist) the seed cotton from the burrs that are attached to plants’ stems. Doffers then remove the seed cotton from the spindles and knock the seed cotton into the conveying system.
A second kind of stripper uses a broadcast attachment that looks lik a grain header on a combine. All harvesting systems use air to convey and elevate the seed cotton into a storage bin referred to as a basket. Once the basket is full, the stored seed cotton is dumped into a boll buggy, trailer or module builder.
Conventional cotton stripping machines use rollers equipped with alternating bats and brushes to knock the open bolls from the plants into a conveyor.
COTTON’S PRODUCTION PROCESS
2
The bales are opened by machines at the textile mill, and the lint is mixed and cleaned further by blowing and beating. The short lint that comes out is separated and sold for use in other industries.
1
The mixed cotton goes into a carding machine which cleans the fibers and makes them lie side by side. The combing action of the carding machine finishes the job of cleaning and straightening the fibers, and makes them into a soft, untwisted rope called a sliver (pronounced sly-ver).
3
On modern spinning frames, yarn is mare directly from the sliver. The spinning devices take fibers from the sliver and rotate it up to 2,500 revolutions in a second twist that makes fibers into a yarn for weaving or knitting into fabrics.
4
Machines called looms weave cotton yarns into fabrics the same way the first handweaving frames did. Modern looms work at great speeds, interlacing the length-wise yarns (warp) and the crosswise yarns (filling).
5 The woven fabric, called gray goods, is sent to a finishing plant where it is bleached, pre-shrunk, dyed, printed and given a special finish before being made into clothing or products for the home.
TYPES 2
Rugged, woven cloth made with coarse yarn. Also called duck. Use: cushions, slipcovers, shower curtains, paint dropcloths.
A tightly woven lustrous cotton cloth with fine embedded crosswise ribs. Resembles poplin. Use: shirts and blouses, as well as home decorating.
CHAMBRAY
Fabric woven with a mixture of colored and white yarn. Use: curtains, shirts, dresses.
A fuzzy cotton yarn or fabric that has pile protruding around it, named for the French word for caterpillar. Use: Heavyweight as upholstery; lightweight for bedspreads and robes.
Ribbed pile fabric in various weights and weaves. Use: cushions, curtains, bedspreads, jumpers and pants.
FLANNEL
3
CHENILLE
CORDUROY
7
8
BROADCLOTH
CANVAS
4
5
1
6
DAMASK
Patterned fabric made on a jacquard loom. Use: table linens and tea towels.
DENIM
Rugged, durable twill, most popular in indigo blue, but also white, tan, red, black. Use: jeans, slipcovers, bedspreads, casual curtains.
Plain-weave soft cloth with napped surface. Use: winter pajamas, nightgowns and sheets.
9
GINGHAM
Yarn-dyed and woven usually in checks. Use: kitchen curtains and little girls’ pinafores, and more recently sheets and pillowcases.
10
JACQUARD
Fabric woven on the jacquard loom, which produces elaborate, figured weaves. Use: decorative fabrics such as tapestries, brocade and damask.
12
13
MATELASSE
Double-woven in different patterns on a jacquard loom to give a three-dimensional look. Use: Outer bedding and elegant tablecloths.
KNIT
Stretchy fabric made by interlocking thread loops together. Use: Different weights for T-shirts, underwear, easy-care dresses and bedsheets.
OXFORD
Fabric made with a modified plain or basket weave. Use: button-down shirts and more recently, sheets and pillowcases.
15
16
11
PLISSE
PERCALE
A smooth, finely combed woven with a minimum thread count of 180 threads per square inch. Use: sheets and clothing.
POPLIN
Fabric with a fine horizontal rib effect on the surface and high thread count. Use: high-quality shirting.
Fabric treated with a solution that shrinks part of the threads to create a crinkle effect. Use: blanket covers and summer pajamas.
18
14
17
SEERSUCKER
A lightweight cotton fabric with a woven crinkle with altering tension in the warp yarns.
SATEEN
A satin-weave cotton with a smooth, lustrous surface. Striped sateen mixes lustrous with matte-finish stripes. Use: sheets, tablecloths, curtains.
19
20
21
22
SHEERS
Batiste, lawn, organdy, dimity, dotted swiss and voile are all finely woven cotton sheers. Some are crisp, some are soft. Use: summer party dresses, curtains and summer see-through slipcovers for wooden chairs.
TERRY CLOTH
Fabric with moisture-absorbing loop pile covering the entire surface on one or both sides. Use: bath towels, robes and cushion covers.
TWILL
Durable fabric with diagonal lines on its face. Use: pants, shorts, slipcovers.
VELVET
A warp-pile fabric with short, densely woven cut pile, giving the fabric a soft, rich texture. Use: draperies, cushions and clothing.
SUSTAINABILITY
Cotton is sustainable, renewable, and biodegradable, making it an excellent choice as an environmentally-friendly fiber throughout its entire product life cycle. New technology, such as insect-resistant and drought-resistant varieties, reduces the need for pesticides and water. These allow for more cotton to be grown on the same amount of land. Conservation tillage practices have increased dramatically in the U.S., leading to less erosion and runoff. In 2005, the world’s demand for textile fibers was 130 billion pounds. In 2006 and beyond, world income and population growth will stimulate a 4.5 billion pound increase in global fiber demand each year. That means enough fiber will be needed for nearly 9 billion tee shirts or 2.3 billion pairs of denim jeans.
SWATCHES
Theory Light Blue & White Pinstriped What the tag says
56% COTTON, 44% LINEN
Actual Content
56% COTTON, 44% COTTONBLEND
How it burns
Burns quickly with a yellow flame, ash crushes easily. Smells like burnt paper.
Weave
Plain Weave with Slub Thread
Treatments Yarn Dye
Uses
Mid-calf dresses, skirts, off the shoulder blouses, and A-line tops.
Natural 100% Certified Organic Cotton Duck Canvas What the tag says
100% ORGANIC COTTON
Actual Content 100% COTTON
How it burns
Quickly and with a yellow flame. Ash is crushed and it smells like burnt paper.
Weave
2X1 Uneven Basketweave
Uses
Used for sustainable fashion. Can be suitable for suiting and jacketing applications.
European Peach and Blue Geometric Floral Cotton What the tag says 100% COTTON
Actual Content 100% COTTON
How it burns
Quickly and with a yellow flame. Ash is crushed and it smells like burnt paper.
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments Has a repetitive print (Printing)
Uses
Can be used for ruffled pieces like tank tops and skirts as well as shirt dresses.
Black and White Glen Plaid Cotton and Linen Woven What the tag says COTTON & LINEN
Actual Content Cotton and Linen
How it burns
Burns quickly, has a yellow flame, smells like burnt paper, ash is crushed.
Weave
Fantasy Weave / Houndstooth, Striped, Lined
Treatments Non-Treated
Uses
May be used for midi dresses, wide-leg trousers, waterfall jackets, etc.
Natural Cotton Canvas What the tag says 100% COTTON
Actual Content 100% COTTON
How it burns Quickly and with a yellow flame
Weave
2X2 Even Basketweave
Treatments
Non-Treated / Raw
Uses
Can be suitable for suiting and jacketing applications.
Navy Cotton Canvas What the tag says 100% COTTON
Actual Content 100% COTTON
How it burns Quickly and with a yellow flame
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments Navy Blue Yarn dye
Uses
Has a stiff drape used for jackets, pants, and bags.
Marc Jacobs Salmon Woven What the tag says 100% COTTON
Actual Content 100% VISCOSE
How it burns
Burns very quickly, with an orange flame.
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments Bleaching and Pink Fabric Dye
Uses
Create bell-sleeve blouses, tent dresses It may also be used as a lining.
Dark Blue Rayon Velvet What the tag says RAYON, COTTON
Actual Content COTTONBLEND
How it burns
Burns slowly, has a smell of burning paper
Weave Velvet
Treatments Dark Blue Fabric Dye
Uses
Slip-style dresses, shrugs and jackets for fall/ winter. Thin and of a lighter medium weight, it has a flexible drape that may be used in softer silhouettes.
European Coral and White Geometric Floral What the tag says 100% COTTON
Actual Content 100% COTTON
How it burns
Burns quickly, orange flame. Has a black bead that is hard to crush. Smells chemical
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments Has a repetitive print (Printing)
Uses
Flexible drape that may be used in relaxed fits and ruffled elements. Thin, lightweight can be translated into buttoned shirts, ruffled tanks and shirt dresses.
What the tag says
42% COTTON, 17% POLYESTER CHENILLE, 42% POLYESTER BLEND
Actual Content
42% COTTON, 38% COTTONBLEND
How it burns
Burns quickly, orange flame. Has a black bead that is hard to crush. Smells chemical
Weave
Rib Weave, Fantasy Yarn woven into the weave
Treatments Yarn Dye
Uses
Upholstery, Stiff skirts or trousers that have a rigid form.
CARE LABELS
100% COTTON Water temperature not above 40 degrees celsius. Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Iron any temperature, steam Do not dryclean
87% COTTON, 10% NYLON, 3% LYCRA Water temperature not above 30 degrees celsius or 80 degrees farenheight. Non-chlorine bleach if needed Dry flat Dry normal, medium heat Any solvent except tetrachlorethylene
100% COTTON Water temperature not above 40 degrees celsius. Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Iron any temperature, steam Do not dryclean
36,000 years ago
8000 B.C Pieces of straw, seeds, fibers, yarns, and other types of fabrics have also been found in Swiss lake dwelling.
Dyed flax fibers are found in a prehistoric cave in Georgia which is evidence that woven linen fabrics from wild flax were used.
ancient egypt
mesopotamia Linen was also produced in ancient Mesopotamia but it was for higher classes. It had high cost because it was always difficult to work with the thread.
In ancient Egypt linen was used for mummification and for burial shrouds because it symbolized light and purity as well as wealth. Linen was so valued in ancient Egypt that it was used as currency in some cases.
victorian era This was when the majority of the world’s linen was produced. Some religions even made rules that involved linen or they just mention them in religious concept. The Jewish faith restricts wearing of mixture of linen and wool.
8th century Charlemagne industrialized the production of linen in France, and the fabric thrived in Europe in the centuries thereafter
1900 Day and night undergarments made of linen first began to appear
1970
1990 70% of linen production in the 1990s was used for apparel textiles.
5% of world linen production was used for fashion fabrics
CHARACTERISTICS
ABSORBANCY This is the most notable quality of linen. Fibers from plant basts are all hygroscopic (which means they can absorb lots of moisture). To be specific, linen can absorb up to 20% of its weight in moisture. This makes it highly desirable for many garments and sheets as it will literally pull perspiration off the body.
BREATHABILITY Linen the fiber cannot hold air or heat so they dry almost instantly. Qualities as a result would be cooling to touch and breathable. The fabric draws in perspiration, which cools the body, and allows heat to pass through essentially unobstructed.
DURABILITY Unlike other fabrics, all the great things about linens tend to improve with use. The high durability of linen also makes it a little more rigid than other fabrics. This prevents it from clinging to the body. This drape-like quality of linen garments is another thing that contributes to its breathability. Finally, the durability of linen prevents it from producing lint.
COLOUR The material is usually an off-white colour, but the fibres take dye well and so linen can be dyed a wide range of colours.
GLOBAL PRODUCTION
1 8
5
CANADA RUSSIA UKRAINE FRANCE ARGENTINA ITALY GERMANY UK HOLLAND
9 4
7 6
3
2
LINEN’S LIFE CYCLE
The linseed variety is grown primarily to extract the seed’s highly nutritious oil. This type is typical ly short and produces many secondary branches, which increases seed yiel d.
Flax can grow in a variety of climates, but it flourishes in cool, damp environments. It cannot tolerate extreme heat, so the planting schedule of flax varies from country to country depending upon climatic conditions. For instance, in warmer regions flax is sown in the winter so that harvesting can be undertaken before the heat of early spring.
After harvest, flax stalks are allowed to dry in open air for several weeks before they undergo threshing, or removal of seeds from the stalk by crushing open the dried seed pods. Hand threshing is usually achieved by simply beating the dried stalks until all the seed pods have been crushed, then shaking the seeds free.
The flax variety tends to grow taller, more slender, and has less branches. It is grown in order to extract the ver y long fibers from inside the woode n stem of the plant, which are the n spun and woven into linen fabric. The taller the flax plant, the longer the fibe r.
Flax is ready to be harveste d for its fibers when the stem begins to turn yellow and the seeds turn bro wn. On some farms however, the plant is harvested prior to seed germinatio n. This yields exceptionally fine fib ers, but leaves the grower without any seeds for the next planting and subseq uently dependent upon foreign im ports.
LINEN’S PRODUCTION PROCESS
CULTIVATING
2
Once flax is harvested and the fiber removed from the stalks, a scutching machine removes the broken outer layer called shives. seed must be covered over with soil. Machines may also plant the seed in rows.
It takes about 100 days from seed planting to harvesting of the flax plant. Flax cannot endure very hot weather; thus, in many countries, the planting of seed is figured from the date or time of year in which the flax must be harvested due to heat and the growers count back 100 days to determine a date for planting.
3
4
These plants are pulled out of the ground by hand, grasped just under the seed heads and gently tugged. The tapered ends of the stalk must be preserved so that a smooth yarn may be spun. These stalks are tied in bundles called beets and are ready for extraction of the flax fiber in the stalk.
1
Flax plants are poor competitors with weeds. Weeds reduce fiber yields and increase the difficulty in harvesting the plant. When the flax plants are just a few inches high, the area must be carefully weeded so as not to disturb the delicate sprouts. In three months, the plants are straight, slender stalks that may be 2-4 ft (61-122 cm) in height with small blue or white fibers.
RETTING
5
The plant is passed through coarse combs, which removes the seeds and leaves from the plant. This is called spinning. The fiber is combed and separated by length. Line fibers (long linen fibers) are spun into linen yarn. rippling, is mechanized in many of the flax-producing countries.
7
The flax plants are squeezed and allowed to dry out before they undergo the process called breaking. To crush the decomposed stalks, they are sent through fluted rollers which break the stem and separate the exterior fibers from the bast that will be used to make linen. This process breaks the stalk into pieces of bark called shives and are scutched. The scutching machine removes the broken shives with rotating paddles, finally releasing the flax fiber from stalk.
The woody bark surrounding the flax fiber is decomposed by water or chemical retting, which loosens the gum that attaches the fiber to the stem.If flax is not fully retted, the stalk of the plant cannot be separated from the fiber without injuring the delicate fiber. Thus, retting has to be carefully executed. Too little retting may not permit the fiber to be separated from the stalk with ease. Too much retting or rotting will weaken fibers.
8
6
The fibers are now combed and straightened in preparation for spinning. This separates the short fibers (called tow and used for making more coarse, sturdy goods) from the longer and more luxurious linen fibers. The very finest flax fibers are called line or dressed flax, and the fibers may be anywhere from 12-20 in (30.5-51 cm) in length.
SPINNING
9 Line fibers (long linen fibers) are put through machines called spreaders, which combine fibers of the same length, laying the fibers parallel so that the ends overlap, creating a sliver. The sliver passes through a set of rollers, making a roving which is ready to spin.
10
The linen rovings, are put on a spinning frame and drawn out into thread and ultimately wound on bobbins or spools. The fibers are formed into a continuous ribbon by being pressed between rollers and combed over fine pins. This operation constantly pulls and elongates the ribbon-like linen until it is given its final twist for strength and wound on the bobbin.
These moist yarns are transferred from bobbins on the spinning frame to large take-up reels. These linen reels are taken to dryers, and when the yarn is dry, it is wound onto bobbins for weaving or wound into yarn spools of varying weight. The higher the cut, the finer the yarn becomes. The yarn now awaits transport to the loom for weaving into fabrics, toweling, or for use as twine or rope.
11
TYPES 2
4
6
1
DAMASK
Woven on a jacquard loom, the flat fibres produce a smooth texture. This type of weaving is often used for table clothes and napkins.
3
GLASS TOWELLING LINEN
5
CAMBRIC LINEN
7
BLENDED LINEN
BIRD’S EYE LINEN This fabric is characterised by its small diamond-shaped pattern that resembles the eye of a bird. It is commonly used for nappies and the towelling cloth.
This sturdy, mass-manufactured form of linen is a heavy form used to make sheets.
The loose weave of this type of linen makes it more absorbent but less durable. A plain-woven linen, it is used for cleaning clothes and tea towels; it is often woven with a stripped pattern.
HOLLAND LINEN This is also a plain-woven type of linen. However, here oil and starch are used to treat the fabric, which gives it an extra layer of protection and strength. It is often used to make lampshades and window blinds.
SHEETING LINEN
Fine and thin, this pretty variety of plain-woven linen is used to make handkerchiefs and lingerie that need delicacy and softness.
When blended with cotton a softer and easier to handle fabric is created. The linen also adds a higher thermal insulation to the blend; this combination of strength and softness makes for an ideal t-shirt.
SUSTAINABILITY
In terms of energy usage, linen production requires only 8% of the energy needed to produce polyester, and 18% of the energy needed to produce cotton. While the flax plant is not immune to diseases and pests, it is significantly less vulnerable than cotton, so it does not require chemical pesticides and fertilizers to the same degree that cotton does. Even when chemicals are used, flax requires just a fifth of the pesticides and fertilizers required to grow chemical cotton. Flax plants grow best using traditional farming methods, including crop rotation, which is sustainable way of managing the land and ensuring high levels of soil nutrition over time. Flax can grow on a variety of soils, including on marginal land that is not suitable for food production. This reduces the competition between fiber production and food production for land. Because it does not require intensive irrigation, flax averts soil damage associated with irrigation, including soil salinity. Bast fibers have also been shown to rehabilitate polluted soils. Flax plants absorb carbon at a high rate. In general, bast crops absorb 1.8-2.1 tons of CO2 per ton of crop produced.
SWATCHES
Black and White Windowpane Checkered Linen What the tag says 100% LINEN
Actual Content 100% LINEN
How it burns
Yellow flame, Continues to burn. Smells like burning paper. Has a feathery ash
Weave
Uneven Basketweave
Treatments
A mix of Yarn Dye and Non-Dye
Uses
Medium weight, with a stiffer drape. Could make tailored blazers, light jackets, cuffed shorts and wrap dresses.
Blue Solid Light Weight Linen What the tag says 100% LINEN
Actual Content 100% LINEN
How it burns
Yellow flame, Continues to burn. Smells like burning paper. Has a feathery ash.
Weave
Slub Yarn Plain Weave
Treatments Blue Yarn Dye
Uses
Slightly crisper hand and drapes with ease This fabric can be altered into jackets, pants and shirting options like henleys
Natural Animaistic Blended Stretch Woven What the tag says
61% LINEN, 38% COTTON, 1% SPANDEX
Actual Content LINENBLEND
How it burns
Burns slowly with a yellow flame, has a sharp bitter smell, ash is easily crushed
Weave
Slub Yarn Plain weave
Treatments
Bleaching, Animal print (Printing)
Uses
Has a stretch in the weft direction, can be used for durable clothing such as dress shirts, trousers, and mid-length skirts.
Ginger Spice Medium Weight What the tag says 100% LINEN
Actual Content 100% LINEN
How it burns
Yellow flame, Continues to burn. Smells like burning paper. Has a feathery ash.
Weave
Slub Plain Weave
Treatments
Red Fabric Dye
Uses
High-end look complimented by the visual texture of this woven linen. Jackets, pants and shirtings like Henleys.
Light Blue Candy Striped Light Weight What the tag says 100% LINEN
Actual Content 100% LINEN
How it burns
Yellow flame, Continues to burn. Smells like burning paper. Has a feathery ash
Weave
Slub Yarn Plain Weave
Treatments
Bleach & Yarn Dye
Uses
Warmer weather styling. Translucent in nature, billowy blouses or line it in boho skirts and dresses.
Orange Leafy Print What the tag says 100% LINEN
Actual Content 100% LINEN
How it burns
Yellow flame, Continues to burn. Smells like burning paper. Has a feathery ash
Weave
Slub Yarn Plain Weave
Treatments
Printed repetitive pattern (Printing) & Fabric Dye
Uses
Transform its stiff drape into cuffed shorts, button-up shirts and A-line dresses
Black and Beige Graph Check Linen What the tag says 100% LINEN
Actual Content 100% LINEN
How it burns
Yellow flame, Continues to burn. Smells like burning paper. Has a feathery ash.
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments Yarn Dye
Uses
A minimalist check is woven in neutral tones allowing it to fit in with almost any collection. Ideal for tailored shorts, pants and blazers.
Ralph Lauren Black and Egret Floral Linen Canvas What the tag says LINENBLEND
Actual Content LINENBLEND
How it burns
Burns very slowly, ash is easily crushed. Has a strong bitter smell.
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments
Bleach & Printed Repetitive Pattern, Fabric Dye
Uses
Typically used as a home decor fabric for it’s durability it could also be used for tote bags, stiffer trousers, and even edgy tops.
Ralph Lauren Bark Brown Linen What the tag says 100% LINEN
Actual Content
100% LINENBLEND
How it burns
Burns quickly with a yellow flame, smells like burning trees. Has hard black bead.
Weave
Uneven Basketweave
Coloration Yarn Dye
Uses
Mostly used for upholstery purposes but could also be used for tote bags, and home decoration items.
Documented Vermeil What the tag says
55% LINEN, 45% RAYON
Actual Content LINENBLEND
How it burns
Burns quickly with a yellow flame, smells like burning trees.
Weave
Fantasy Weave
Treatments Yarn Dye
Uses
It’s slight stiffness indicate that it is suitable for upholstery (chairs, pillows, cutains) but it may also be used to make dresses and skirts as it has a stiff fold good for pleating
CARE LABELS
55% LINEN, 45% COTTON Water temperature not above 30 degrees celsius or 80 degrees farenheight Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Maximum temperature 110 degrees celsius or 230 degrees farenheight Any solvent except tetrachlorethylene
100% LINEN Water temperature not above 30 degrees celsius or 80 degrees farenheight Do not bleach Maximum temperature 150 degrees celsius or 300 degrees farenheight Any solvent except tetrachlorethylene Do not tumbledry
100% LINEN Water temperature not above 40 degrees celsius. Non-chlorine bleach if needed Do not tumble dry Dry in the shade Do not dryclean Wet cleaning
10,000 BC
The mobility of sheep allowed Persians, Greeks and Romans to distribute and introduce sheep’s wool in Europe.
Wool was an important fibre to clothe primitive human tribes. Wool was being spun and woven in Mesopotamia but also other northern European tribes. Spinning and weaving tools were relatively basic.
1900 BC
The history of Britain’s leading wool manufacturing industry is said to have developed with spinning and weaving
50 AD The establishment of the Roman wool plant in Winchester, England helped the Britons to improve their methods.
1200 Greek weavers were sent to Italy as slaves after the Norman conquest of Greece which stimulated the Italian weaving industry to extraordinary work.
1786 In Spain the death penalty of exporting sheep was lifted in 1786.
1660 Two-thirds of England’s foreign commerce was based on wool textile exports
1500
1400 In the 14th century Flemish weavers fled the Spanish invasion to settle in England where the wool industry thrived in return.
Sheep and their wool were such an important economic force during the 15th to 18th centuries, that countries such as Spain and England had periods when they prohibited exports of sheep and raw wool
1789
Two Spanish Merino Rams and six Spanish Merino ewes arrived in South Africa after they had been gifted by the Spanish King to the Dutch Royal House of Orange where they could not adjust to the cold and rainy weather.
1797
Through selective breeding Australian farmers soon produced the fine Australian Merino wool to be shipped to England for manufacturing.
CHARACTERISTICS
CRIMP Caused by the unique chemical and physical properties of wool. The fiber tends to bend and turn in to a resilient 3 dimensional structure. It holds in air to insulate the wearer. This property make wool naturally elastic and resilient causing rapid wrinkle recovery, durability, bulk, loft, warmth, and resistance to abrasion.
WATER ABSORBANCY Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp or clammy. This makes wool good for all climates since it aids in the body’s cooling mechanisms to keep moisture away from the skin
RESISTANCE TO FIRE Wool contains moisture in every fiber allowing it to resist flame without any additional chemical treatment. The wool will just char and self extinguish.
DYEABILITY Wool absorbs many dyes deeply, uniformly, and directly without the use of chemicals. This characteristic allows wool to achieve very beautiful and rich colors when dyed.
DURABILITY The flexibility of wool makes it very durable. A single wool fiber can be bent back on itself more the 20,000 times without breaking. Compare this to the only 3,000 times of cotton and 2,000 times of silk. Its elasticity makes it very resistant to tearing. Wool also has an outer film making it resistant to abrasion. RESILIENCE Wool fiber can be stretched up to 50% of its length when dry and up to 30% of its length when wet without breaking It will return to its original length when released
GLOBAL PRODUCTION
8 3
6
5
2
7 9
5
1 4
AUSTRALIA CHINA UNITED STATES NEW ZEALAND ARGENTINA TURKEY IRAN UK INDIA
WOOL’S PRODUCTION PROCESS
SHEARING GRADING & SORTING
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Grading is the breaking up of the fleece based on overall quality. In sorting, the wool is broken up into sections of different quality fibers. The best quality of wool comes from the shoulders and sides of the sheep and is used for clothing; the lesser quality comes from the lower legs and is used to make rugs. In wool grading, high quality does not always mean high durability.
Sheep are sheared once a year in the springtime. The fleece recovered from a sheep can weigh between 6 and 18 pounds (2.7 and 8.1 kilograms); as much as possible, the fleece is kept in one piece. While most sheep are still sheared by hand, new technologies have been developed that use computers and sensitive, robot-controlled arms to do the clipping.
CLEANING & SORING
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Wool taken directly from the sheep is called “raw” or “grease wool.” It contains sand, dirt, grease, and dried sweat (called suint). After being carded, the wool fibers are spun into yarn. Spinning for woolen yarns is typically done on a mule spinning machine, while worsted yarns can be spun on any number of spinning machines. After the yarn is spun, it is wrapped around bobbins, cones, or commercial drums.
4 To remove these contaminants, the wool is scoured in an alkaline bathcontaining water, soap, and soda ash or a similar alkali. The byproducts from this process (such as lanolin) are saved and used in household products. Rollers in the scouring machines squeeze excess water from the fleece, but the fleece is not allowed to dry completely.
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CARDING The fibers are passed through a series of metal teeth that straighten and blend them into slivers. Carding also removes residual dirt and other matter left in the fibers. Carded wool intended for worsted yarn is put through gilling and combing, two procedures that remove short fibers and place the longer fibers parallel to each other. From there, the sleeker slivers are compacted and thinned through a process called drawing. Carded wool to be used for woolen yarn is sent directly for spinning.
SPINNING
WEAVING
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Wool manufacturers use two basic weaves: the plain weave and the twill. Woolen yarns are made into fabric using a plain weave, which produces a fabric of a somewhat looser weave and a soft surface with little or no luster. The napping often conceals flaws in construction.
Thread is formed by spinning the fibers together to form one strand of yarn; the strand is spun with two, three, or four other strands. Since the fibers cling and stick to one another, it is fairly easy to join, extend, and spin wool into yarn. Spinning for woolen yarns is typically done on a mule spinning machine, while worsted yarns can be spun on any number of spinning machines.
8 FINISHING
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After weaving, both worsteds and woolens undergo a series of finishing procedures including: fulling (immersing the fabric in water to make the fibers interlock); crabbing (permanently setting the interlock); decating (shrink-proofing); and, occasionally, dyeing. Although wool fibers can be dyed before the carding process, dyeing can also be done after the wool has been woven into fabric.
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Worsted yarns can create fine fabrics with exquisite patterns using a twill weave. The result is a more tightly woven, smooth fabric. Better constructed, worsteds are more durable than woolens and therefore more costly
TYPES 2
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SHEEP’S WOOL
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MOHAIR WOOL
MERINO WOOL
Merino wool is taken from a Merino Sheep and has fine, soft appearance of the fabric. It is quite expensive. The distinction from other types of wool is its resistance to pilling.
ANGORA WOOL
Mohair is taken from Angora goat. It is not very soft and many people find it a very itchy fabric to wear directly next to the skin.
Angora wool is made of an Angora rabbit hair. Its main quality is its fluffy surface texture and its soft touch. It is expensive, as it comes from a specific breed of rabbit. To improve fabric stability Angora is often blended with Nylon.
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It is traditional wool that can be made from any sheep fleece.
ALPACA WOOL
is made from the hair of Peruvian alpacas. It is a lustrous, silky, soft and therefore luxurious natural fiber. It is warmer than usual wool, not prickly, and bears no lanolin, and therefore – hypoallergenic.
CASHMERE WOOL Cashmere is soft and luxurious fabric. The fibers that are used to make cashmere come from specific areas of the fleece of a cashmere goat, and that is why it is so expensive.
SUSTAINABILITY
Sheep are part of the natural carbon cycle, consuming the organic carbon stored in plants and converting it to wool. Fifty per cent of the weight of wool is pure organic carbon. Wool products have long lifespans, meaning they are used or worn longer than other textile fibre products Wool textile products tend to be washed less frequently at lower temperatures which has a lower impact on the environment Wool is one of the most recycled fibres. With a market share of 1,3% of all textile fibres, wool claims 5% within the recycled fibres market share identifying wool as a suitable fibre for recycling.
SWATCHES
Black and Oyster White Animalistic Alpaca Coating What the tag says
100% ALPACA WOOL
Actual Content 100% WOOL
How it burns
Slow with small flame, has sizzles and curls. Has a human hair smell when it burns.
Weave
Complex Basket Weave
Treatments
Bleaching, Fibre Dye
Uses
Heavier in weight and thin, its drape flows with ease for longer coat silhouettes. Create overcoats and A-line coats
Italian Dusty Rose Angora and Cashmere Fleece Coating What the tag says
70% WOOL, 15% ANGORA, 15% CASHMERE
Actual Content 100% WOOL
How it burns
Slow with small flame, has sizzles and curls. Has a human hair smell when it burns.
Weave
Cut-Pile Weave
Treatments Fabric Dye
Uses
Plush & Thick. Evening coats, jackets, or as a lining for longer wool coats for warmth and comfort.
Pastel Plaid Wool Fleece What the tag says 100% WOOL
Actual Content 100% WOOL
How it burns
Slow with small flame, has sizzles and curls. Has a human hair smell when it burns.
Weave Twill
Treatments Bleaching, Yarn Dye
Uses
Medium-weight, soft, and easily draped, this fabric would make for exciting jackets, capes and ponchos
Pink and White Herringbone Brushed Wool Tweed What the tag says WOOL BLEND
Actual Content WOOL BLEND
How it burns
Slow with small flame, has sizzles and curls. Has a human hair smell when it burns.
Weave
Herringbone
Treatments Bleaching, Yarn dye
Uses
Commonly used for outerwear, its flexible drape can make waterfall jackets and drop-shoulder overcoats.
Italian Camel and Black Plaid Brushed Wool Twill What the tag says
65% WOOL, 15% ACRYLIC, 15% POLYESTER, 5% AF
Actual Content WOOLBLEND
How it burns
Slow with small flame, has sizzles and curls. Has a chemical smell when it burns.
Weave
2x1Twill
Treatments Yarn Dye, Fibre Dye, Tartan Pattern
Uses
Thin and lightweight for a coating, it has a fluid drape that can be used to create capes, light jackets or even as a liner for longer coats.
Baby Pink Natural Solid Boucle What the tag says LUREX, WOOL
Actual Content WOOLBLEND
How it burns
Burns quickly with a yellow flame, smells like human hair and strong.
Weave
Fantasy Weave
Treatments Yarn Dye
Uses
Can be used for outerwear, as well as thiner trousers.
Calvin Klein Beige Gauzy What the tag says MOHAIR WOOL
Actual Content 100% WOOL
How it burns
Slow with small flame, has sizzles and curls. Has a human hair smell when it burns.
Weave
Plain weave
Coloration Yarn Dye
Uses
Has a stiffer drape, would make great dress shirts, accents to dresses and pants.
Honeysuckle and Gray Blended Wool Tweed What the tag says
34% POLYESTER, 33% WOOL, 33% ACETATE
Actual Content WOOLBLEND
How it burns
Burns slowly and has a yellow flame with a chemical smell.
Weave
Fantasy Weave
Coloration
Yarn Dye and Fibre Dye
Uses
Create everything from blazers to jackets and wrap skirts to shift dresses with this medium weight tweed
Italian Coffee Mohair Wool Coating What the tag says 100% WOOL
Actual Content 100% WOOL
How it burns
Slow with small flame, has sizzles and curls. Has a human hair smell when it burns.
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments Brushed, Pressed , Fibre Dye and Yarn Dye
Uses
Thick, yet lighter in weight, its drape flows for longer coating applications such as overcoats
Mars Red, Patriot Blue, and Ash Blended Wool Tweed What the tag says
50% WOOL, 50% POLYESTER
Actual Content WOOLBLEND
How it burns Burns slowly with a chemical smell.
Weave
Fantasy Weave
Treatments Yarn Dye
Uses
In theme for retro blazers, wrap skirts or light jackets for fall and winter.
CARE LABELS
100% WOOL Water Temperature not above 30 degrees celsius or 105 degrees farenheight Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Maximum temperature 110 degrees celsius or 230 degrees farenheight Any solvent except tetrachlorethylene
55% POLYESTER, 45% WOOL (SHELL) 100% POLYESTER (LINING) Do not wash Do not bleach Do not tumbledry Maximum temperature 110 degrees celsius or 230 degrees farenheight Any solvent except tetrachlorethylene
80% WOOL, 12% NYLON Handwash Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Maximum temperature 110 degrees celsius or 230 degrees farenheight Any solvent except tetrachlorethylene
3000 BC
A group of ribbons, threads and woven fragments found at Qianshanyang in Zhejiang province
Chinese legend gives the title Goddess of Silk to Lady Hsi-Ling-Shih, wife of the mythical Yellow Emperor,. She is credited with the introduction of silkworm rearing and the invention of the loom.
200 BCE Korea saw the emergence of its own silk industry thanks to a handful of Chinese immigrants who had settled there.
300
Sericulture had spread into India, Japan, and Persia – thus making silk a part of the history of these cultures.
550 The Roman Empire knew of and traded in silk. Despite its popularity, however, the secret of silk-making was only to reach Europe.
1300
1700
France was challenging Italy’s leadership, and the silk looms established in the Lyons area at that time are still famous today for the unique beauty of their weaving.
Italy had gained dominance and entered the silk history. Venetian merchants traded in silk and encouraged silk growers to settle in Italy. Italian silk was a significant source of trade
1000
700 Arabs conquered Persia, capturing their magnificent silks in the process. Sericulture and silk weaving thus spread through Africa, Sicily, and Spain as the Arabs swept through these lands.
Andalusia was Europe’s main silk-producing center in the tenth century.
1927
Half a silkworm cocoon unearthed from the loess soil astride the Yellow River in Shanxi Province, in northern China, has been dated between 2600 and 2300 BC
1900
The downfall of the European silk industry. Cheaper Japanese silk, especially driven by the opening of the Suez Canal. Manmade fiber, such as nylon, started to dominate traditionally silk products such as stockings and parachutes.
POST 2ND WORLD WAR Japan’s silk production was restored, with improved production and quality of raw silk. Japan was to remain the world’s biggest producer of raw silk, and practically the only major exporter of raw silk, until the 1970s. China gradually re-captured her position as the world’s biggest producer and exporter of raw silk and silk yarn. Today, around 125,000 metric tons of silk is produced in the world. Almost two thirds of that production takes place in China.
1970 China, the country that first developed sericulture thousands years ago dramatically increased its silk production and has again become the world’s leading producer of silk.
CHARACTERISTICS
STRENGTH Silk is the strongest natural fibre available as a result of its continuous yarns. It is lightweight, breathable, hypoallergenic and has good absorbency (It can absorb up to 30 per cent of its weight in moisture). Silk is also highly lustrous, has excellent drapability and is highly resistant to mould and mildew. Silk’s strength means that it is a long lasting fabric
BREATHABILITY As silk is a very breathable material, it is an excellent choice of fabric for clothing and bed linen all year round as it traps air and provides warmth in the winter and is blissfully cool and breathable in the summer. The fact that it is highly lustrous makes it incredibly comfortable against the skin.
HYPOALLERGENIC Silk is very hypoallergenic being naturally resistant to dust mites, mould and mildew, therefore it is the ideal material for those who suffer from allergies. DRAPABILITY It makes it a great choice of fabric for bed linen and home furnishings. The irregular surface of the silk yarns means that silk has a unique appearance. This is by no means regarded as a defect in the fabric, but rather organic individuality. The fabric is easily creased or crushed which is a very sought after style feature for many products.
GLOBAL PRODUCTION
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CHINA INDIA UZBEKISTAN THAILAND BRAZIL VIETNAM NORTH KOREA TURKEY
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SILKWORM’S LIFE CYCLE
Silk is a biological secretion of a moth named Bombyx mo ri. This particular type of moth has become so domesticated, that now it has lost its ability to fend for itse lf in wild. Human intervention has had a big impact on these species .
The silkworm metamorphoses into a beautiful moth from its initial stage of an egg. The entire life cycle of a silkworm does not last for more than a couple of months.
Egg is the first stage of a silkworm’s life cycle. The female moth lays an egg about the size of an ink dot during summer or the early fall. The egg remains in dormant stage until spring arrives. The warmth of the spring stimulates the egg to hatch.
The silkworm, upon hatchi ng, is about 1/8th of an inch and ext remely hairy. Young silkworms can on ly feed on tender mulberry leaves. Ho wever, during the growth phase they can eat tougher mulberry leaves as we ll. The larval stage lasts for about 27 days and the silkworm goes throu gh five growth stages called instars, during this time. During the first molting, the silkworm sheds all its ha ir and gains a smooth skin.
Cocoon is the stage in which the larva spins silk threads around it, to protect itself from its predators. The larva traps itself inside the cocoon in order to pupate. The color of the cocoon varies, depending upon what the silkworm eats. It can range from white to golden yellow. The second molting occurs inside the cocoon, when the larva turns into a brown pupa. It takes about 2 - 3 weeks for the pupa to metamorphose into an adult moth.
Once the adult moth comes ou t of its cocoon, its only purpose is to find a member of the opposite sex , and mate. Males are larger than fem ales and more active. They flap the ir wings rapidly to attract the fem ales. Within 24 hours of mating, the male moth dies, while the female lay s abundant eggs, after which she dies as well. There on, a new life cyc le begins.
SILK’S PRODUCTION PROCESS Cultivation of the silkworm is known as sericulture. Although many insects produce silk, only the filament produced by Bombyx mori, the mulberry silk moth and a few others in the same genus, is used by the commercial silk industry.
2 100 moths would deposit some 40,000 eggs, each about the size of a pinhead. The female dies almost immediately after depositing the eggs and the male lives only a short time after.
The first stage of silk production is the laying of silkworm eggs, in a controlled environment such as an aluminum box, which are then examined to ensure they are free from disease. The female deposits 300 to 400 eggs at a time.
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The tiny eggs of the silkworm moth are incubated (about 10 days) until they hatch into larvae (caterpillars). At this point, the larva is about a quarter of an inch long.
THE FEEDING PERIOD
4 Once hatched, the larvae are placed under a fine layer of gauze and fed huge amounts of chopped mulberry leaves during which time they shed their skin four times. The larvae may also feed on Osage orange or lettuce. Larvae fed on mulberry leaves produce the very finest silk. The larva will eat 50,000 times its initial weight in plant material.
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For about six weeks the silkworm eats almost continually. After growing to its maximum size of about 3 inches at around 6 weeks, it stops eating, changes color, and is about 10,000 times heavier than when it hatched. The silkworm is now ready to spin a silk cocoon.
SPINNING THE COCOON
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- Silkworms possess a pair of specially modified salivary glands called sericteries, which are used for the production of fibroin – a clear, viscous, proteinaceous fluid that is forced through openings called spinnerets on the mouthpart of the larva.
REELING THE FILAMENT
The silkworm attaches itself to a compartmented frame, twig, tree or shrub in a rearing house to spin a silk cocoon over a 3 to 8 day period. This period is termed pupating.
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Liquid secretions from the two large glands in the insect emerge from the spinneret, a single exit tube in the head. The secretions harden on exposure to the air and form twin filaments composed of fibroin, a protein material. A second pair of glands secretes a gummy binding fluid called sericin which bonds the two filaments together.
9 The cocoon is treated with hot air, steam, or boiling water. The silk is then unbound from the cocoon by softening the sericin and then delicately and carefully unwinding, or ‘reeling’ the filaments from 4 - 8 cocoons at once, sometimes with a slight twist, to create a single strand.
10 As the sericin protects the silk fiber during processing, this is often left in until the yarn or even woven fabric stage. Raw silk is silk that still contains sericin. Once this is washed out (in soap and boiling water), the fabric is left soft, lustrous, and up to 30% lighter.
TYPES 1
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CREPE
Crepe is made by twisting individual threads of raw silk, doubling two or more of these together, and then twisting them again.
TRAM
Tram is made by twisting two or more threads in only one direction.
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THROWN SINGLES
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ORGANZINE
Thrown singles are individual threads that are twisted in only one direction
Organzine is a thread made by giving the raw silk a preliminary twist in one direction and then twisting two of these threads together in the opposite direction
SUSTAINABILITY
The silkworms are killed during the process of extracting the silk, but the pupae don’t go to waste. They are a rich source of protein, which makes them a popular snack across many Asian countries. The outer-cocoons are also used as fertiliser or to stuff pillows. It is also possible to find vegan alternatives to the conventional mulberry-silkworm-cooking process. Ahimsa silk, also known as ‘peace silk’, allows the moth to evacuate the cocoon before it is boiled. Some silks that fall under the Ahimsa umbrella include ‘Eri silk’ and ‘Tussar silk’. Some companies also use ‘wild silkworms’ which means that the worms live in an environment that imitates their natural habitat – essentially they are free range. Wild silkworms produce more durable fabric, and the producers tend to use fewer chemicals, but may not be Ahimsa silks. The silk industry – also known as sericulture – provides employment to rural populations, with around 1 million workers in China and 7.9 million workers in India. In some parts of India sericulture has been an important enterprise for developing communities, and particularly for the empowerment of women.
CHARACTERISTICS
Dustry Brown Crinkled Silk Organza What the tag says 100% SILK
Actual Content 100% SILK
How it burns
There is a struggle as it burns and it ceases to flame. As it burns, it smells like burning hair. There is a black bead that is crushed easily as well.
Weave Plain Weave
Treatments Purple and Brown Dye
Uses
Crisp silk fabric for shaped or voluminous formal gowns, fun cocktail dresses. This sheer material could also be used to create tutus.
Oscar De La Renta Blue Silk and Wool What the tag says SILK, WOOL
Actual Content SILK BLEND
How it burns
Burns slowly, has black dot that can be crushed and has black pigment. Has a burnt hair smell
Weave Twill
Treatments Bleaching, Yarn Dye, Fibre Dye
Uses
Incredibly smooth, it presents a flowy drape that falls into some volume. Created for gowns, cocktail dresses and more.
Muted Peach Silk Woven What the tag says 100% SILK
Actual Content 100% SILK
How it burns
There is a struggle as it burns and it ceases to flame. As it burns, it smells like burning hair. There is a black bead that is crushed easily as well.
Weave Plain Weave
Treatments & Coloration Bleaching, Yarn Dye
Uses
Thin, lightweight, and flexible. This fabric is used for flared dresses, paneled tops, and simple tunics.
Lavender Crinkled Silk Chiffon What the tag says 100% SILK
Actual Content 100% SILK
How it burns
It ceases to flame as it burns and it smells like burning hair. After, there is a black bead that is crushed easily as well.
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments Bleaching, Yarn Dye
Uses
Light and translucent, this fabric can be used for maxi dresses, blouses, tunics, or skirts.
Brown Crinkled Silk Chiffon What the tag says 100% SILK
Actual Content 100% SILK
How it burns
There is a struggle as it burns and it ceases to flame. As it burns, it smells like burning hair. There is a black bead that is crushed easily as well.
Weave Plain Weave
Coloration Yarn Dye
Uses
Translucent and airy, this light fabric gives the illusion of air for maxi skirts, dresses, loose tops, and even linings for pants.
Yellow and Gray Abstract Floral What the tag says 100% SILK
Actual Content 100% SILK
How it burns
There is a struggle as it burns and it ceases to flame. As it burns, it smells like burning hair. There is a black bead that is crushed easily as well.
Weave Plain Weave
Treatments Printing
Uses
Can be used for blouses, belted dresses, and flowing circle skirts.
Red and Blue Geometric Silk Chiffon What the tag says SILK
Actual Content 100% SILK
How it burns
There is a struggle as it burns and it ceases to flame. As it burns, it smells like burning hair. There is a black bead that is crushed easily as well.
Weave Plain weave
Treatments & Coloration Bleaching, Printing
Uses
Drapes easily, mostly used for blouses, ruffled dresses, etc.
Sky Blue Silk What the tag says SILK, RAYON
Actual Content Silk Blend
How it burns
Burns rapidly. As it burns, it smells like burning hair. There is a black bead that is crushed easily as well.
Weave Twill
Treatments Bleaching, Fabric Dye
Uses
Has great fluidity and has a quality of softness to it. Great for the spring/summer season. Can be used for blouses, thin outerwear, a-line skirts.
Shell Pink Novelty Silk What the tag says SILK, POLYESTER
Actual Content SILK, POLYESTER
How it burns
Burns with difficulty, smells like hair, has a round hard bead that dwont crush
Weave
Fantasy Weave
Treatments Bleaching, Yarn Dye
Uses
Thin and lightweight, made for cocktail dresses and avant-garde silhouettes.
Rust Soft Rayon-Silk Velvet What the tag says
82% RAYON, 18% SILK
Actual Content
82% RAYON, 18% SILK
How it burns
Burns quickly, smells like burnt paper, has a round bead that is easy to crush
Weave
Cut-Pile Uneven Weave
Treatments Yarn Dye
Uses
Drapes wonderfully to make a-line dresses, casual shirt dresses, and oversized cardigans. Options are limitless.
CARE LABELS
67% POLYESTER, 30% RAYON, 3% SPANDEX Hand wash Non-chlorine bleach if needed Dry flat Maximum temperature 110 degrees celsius or 230 degrees farenheight Do not dryclean
60% SILK, 40% WOOL Do not wash Do not bleach Do not tumbledry Maximum temperature 110 degrees celsius or 230 degrees farenheight Any solvent except tetrachlorethylene
75% SILK, 20% COTTON, 5% CASHMERE Handwash Non-chlorine bleach if needed Do not tumble dry Maximum temperature 110 degrees celsius or 230 degrees farenheight Any solvent except tetrechlorothylene
1893 1944
First manufactured in Germany, acrylic was created with similar characteristics as wool.
DuPont first made acrylic fibers.
1950 Dupont began commercial production.
1991 Acrylic became a widely used fabric for sweaters, blankets, and other items that consumers needed to wash and wear often.
CHARACTERISTICS
FIBERS After texturizing, acrylic fibers have a light bulky wool-like hand and overal wool-like aesthetics. The fibers are resilient and possess excellent acid resistance and sunlight resistance. Acrylics have been used extensively in appl ications formerly reserved for wool or other keratin fibers .
DRYING Outstanding wickability & quick drying to move moisture from body surface
FLEXIBILITY Flexible aesthetics for wool-like, cotton-like, or blended appearance
WASHING Easily washed, retains shape
RESISTANCE Resistant to moths, oil, and chemicals
DYEABILITY Dyeable to bright shades with excellent fastness
RESISTANCE Superior resistance to sunlight degradation
GLOBAL PRODUCTION
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CHINA AFRICA INDIA INDONESIA WESTERN EUROPE UNITED STATES MEXICO
ACRYLIC’S PRODUCTION PROCESS Acrylic Fiber is created by a polymerization process called free radical polymerization
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The production process involves dissolving of polymer in a solvent like aqueous thiocynate or N, N-dimethylformamide (DMF)
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Then it is metered through a multi-hole spinneret
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The complete process is washing, drying, stretching, and crimping Acrylic fibers are formed in deniers, ranging from 0.9 to 15, as cut stapleÂŹand as a 400,000 to one million filament tow. Because of its wool-like properties and resistance to absorption, it often replaces wool.
The resultant filaments are then solidified by either : wet spinning which is when it indulges them in an aqueous solvent / dry spinning which is evaporating the solvent by blowing heated inert gas on the fiber
TYPES 1
2
NYTRIL
MODACRYLIC
The modacrylics generally resemble acrylics and have a warm pleasing hand and good drapability, resiliency and wrinkle resistance. They are more heat sensitive but more flame resistant than acrylics and have generally been used in specialty applications. Modacryl ic fiber trade names include Elura, SEF, Verel, and Zefran. Production of Dynel modacrylic fibers was discontinued in 1975. Modacrylics possess warm wool-l ike aesthetics and a generally bright luster. The fiber exhibits fair pilling and abrasion resistance. It has good wrinkle resistance and crease retention if the fiber has been properly heat set.
Nytril fibers are made up of polymers containing at least 85% vinylidene dinitrile units, which appear at least every other unit in the polymer chain. The comonomer used in Nytril synthesis is vinyl acetate.
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LASTRILE
Lastrile fibers are fibers formed from copolymers of acrylonitrile and a diene such as butadiene and contain 10%-50% acrylonitrile units. Lastrile fibers have not been commercially produced.
SUSTAINABILITY
The key ingredient of acrylic fiber is acrylonitrile, (also called vinyl cyanide). It is a carcinogen and a mutagen, targeting the central nervous system. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, acrylonitrile enters our bodies through skin absorption from wearing clothing made out of acrylic fabric, as well as inhalation and ingestion. Acrylic fabric manufacturing involves highly toxic substances which are extremely dangerous to the health of factory workers. Acrylic is not easily recycled nor is it readily biodegradable. Some acrylic plastics are highly flammable and must be protected from sources of combustion. Acrylonitrile may cause cancer, according to the EPA with similar effects to cyanide. Manufacturing acrylic fabric has both health and environmental impacts.
SWATCHES
Dusty Rose High Pile Fur What the tag says 100% MODACRYLIC
Actual Content
100% MODACRYLIC
How it burns
Flames quickly, sputters then melts. Once removed, it continues to melt and smells like Chemical. Ash is like a black bead, hard to crush
Knit Pile Knit
Treatments Yarn Dye, Fibre Dye
Uses
Flexible drape for long coats, cropped jackets, and winter vests.
Green and Gray Color-Blocked Faux Fur What the tag says
50% ACRYLIC, 45% MODACRYLIC, 5% POLYESTER
Actual Content
50% ACRYLIC, 50% ACRYLIC BLEND
How it burns
Flames quickly, smells chemical, has a bead that is hard to crush.
Weave
Single Jersey Knit ; Intarsia knit
Treatments
Yarn dye, Fibre dye
Uses
Has a stiff drape suitable for coats, cropped jackets, and variious other winter outerwears.
Cream Striped Faux Fur What the tag says
80% ACRYLIC, 15% MODACRYLIC, 5% POLYESTER
Actual Content
95% ACRYLIC, 5% POLYESTER
How it burns
Flames quickly, smells chemical, has a bead that is hard to crush.
Knit
Single jersey plain knit
Treatments
Yarn dye fibre dye
Uses
Thick with a heavy weight perfect for fall or winter. Perfect for any outerwear.
Natural Cotton Canvas What the tag says 100% ACRYLIC
Actual Content 100% ACRYLIC
How it burns
Flames quickly, sputters then melts. Once removed, it continues to melt and smells like Chemical. Ash is like a black bead, hard to crush
Knit
Plain Single Jersey Knit
Treatments
Bleaching and Fibre Dye
Uses
Flexible drape that creates great show-stopping coats for winter.
Bonded Cream Faux Shearling What the tag says
POLYEURE, ACRYLIC
Actual Content ACRYLIC BLEND
How it burns
Flames quickly, smells chemical, has a bead that is hard to crush.
Knitted
2 time single jersey knit
Treatments
Yarn Dye, Cut pile
Uses
Little bit of flexibility is seen through the drape. Aviator jackets, waterfall jackets can be made from this.
Twilight Mauve Thick Acrylic Tweed What the tag says
ACRYLIC, POLYESTER
Actual Content
ACRYLIC, POLYESTER
How it burns
Flames quickly, flame is yellow, smells chemical, has a bead that is hard to crush.
Weave
Complex Basket
Treatments Yarn Dye
Uses
Heavyweight and thick that creates waterfall jackets to wide-sleeve coats. Has a fluid drape that creates movement.
Luminous Gold Sweater Knit What the tag says 100% ACRYLIC
Actual Content 100% ACRYLIC
How it burns
Flames quickly, sputters then melts. Once removed, it continues to melt and smells like Chemical. Ash is like a black bead, hard to crush
Knit
Weft Knit
Treatments Bleaching , Fabric Dye
Uses
Fluid drape that transforms this fabric to beachy overlays, draped dresses, kaftan tunics
Beige Loose Gauge Crochet Kint What the tag says
ACRYLIC, POLYESTER
Actual Content
ACRYLIC, POLYESTER
How it burns
Flames quickly, smells chemical, has a bead that is hard to crush.
Knit
Warp Knit
Treatments Sequins, Yarn Dye
Uses
Thin and Lightweight that has a relaxed drape that falls easily into tunics, dresses, and sweaters.
Light Beige Upholstery Chenille What the tag says
67% ACRYLIC, 28% POLYESTER, 5% COTTON
Actual Content
ACRYLIC WITH POLYESTER BLEND
How it burns
Flames sputters quickly, smells like burning paper, has a bead that is hard to crush.
Weave
Plain weave
Treatments Bleaching
Uses
Good for upholstery projects, and canvas bags.
Bondy Micro Blue Squares What the tag says
ACRYLIC, POLYESTER
Actual Content 100% POLYESTER
How it burns
It burns and melts slowly. It has a chemical oder and as it has a black bead that doesnt get crushed.
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments
Padded, stitched with foam, non-woven fabric, Fabric Dye
Uses
Full-Bodied, ideal for outerwear like ski jackets, puffer coats, and bomber jackets.
CARE LABELS
100% ACRYLIC Water Temperature not above 30 degrees celsius or 80 degrees farenheight Do not bleach Maximum temperature 110 degrees celsius or 230 degrees farenheight Any solvent except tetrachlorethylene Do not tumbledry
70% ACRYLIC, 30% RAYON Water Temperature not above 40 degrees celsius or 105 degrees farenheight Do not bleach Do not tumbledry Do not iron Any solvent except tetrachlorethylene
85% ACRYLIC, 15% POLYESTER Water temperature not above 40 degrees celsius or 105 degrees farenheight. Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Maximum temperature 150 degrees celsius or 300 degrees farenheight Any solvent except tetrachlorethylene
1939
A group of Brittish scientists--J.R. Whinfield, J.T. Dickson, W.K. Birtwhistle, and C.G. Ritchie-took up Carothers’ work in 1939
Polyester began as a group of polymers in W.H. Carothers' laboratory. Carothers was working for duPont at the time when he discovered that alcohols and carboxyl acids could be successfully combined to form fibers.
1941 They created the first polester fiber called Terylene
1946 DuPont bought all legal rights from the Brits and came up with another polyester fiber which they named Dacron.
1951 Polyester was first introduced to the American public in 1951. It was advertised as a miracle fiber that could be worn for 68 days straight without ironing and still look presentable.
1958 1970s
Kodel was developed by Eastman Chemical Products, Inc. The polyester market kept expanding. Since it was such an inexpensive and durable fiber.
Sales drastically declined due to the negative public image that emerged in the late 60s as a result of the infamous polyester double-knit fabric
PRESENT
Polyester is still widely regarded as a “cheap, uncomfortable� fiber, now this image is slowly beginning to change with the emergence of polyester luxury fibers such as polyester microfiber.
CHARACTERISTICS
STRENGTH Polyester fabrics and fibers are extremely strong.
DURABILITY Polyester is very durable: resistant to most chemicals, stretching and shrinking, wrinkle resistant, mildew and abrasion resistant.
MANUFACTURING Polyester is hydrophobic in nature and quick drying. It can be used for insulation by manufacturing hollow fibers.
SHAPE Polyester retains its shape and hence is good for making outdoor clothing for harsh climates.
WASHABILITY It is easily washed and dried.
GLOBAL PRODUCTION
4
7
5 1 8
2
3 6
CHINA INDIA SOUTHEAST ASIA USA MIDDLE EAST TAIWAN SOUTH AMERICA SOUTH KOREA
GLOBAL PRODUCTION Outside of Asia, polyester fiber production and consumption will remain extremely limited. Developing regions will still ultimately account for the majority of the incremental textile requirements, but the slower pace of economic growth anticipated for these countries—China more particularly—will nevertheless limit polyester fiber consumption growth compared with the past decade. In addition, a slower demand growth rate is now believed to be the "new normal" for the polyester fiber industry as markets gradually mature everywhere. Over the next five years, the market for polyester fibers is expected to grow at an average rate of about 4% per year on average, broadly aligned with the GDP growth forecast for the emerging world. Current trends in energy, labor costs, freight, and raw material costs, are expected to further advantage polyester fibers over other fibers, further driving demand. In the short term, though, current lower cotton prices may somehow limit polyester fiber demand growth in applications where these products are interchangeable. Asia will remain the focal point of this growth as it will remain the manufacturing center for textiles, clothing, and apparel globally. In all other regions, the polyester fiber market will continue to grow slowly in the range of 1–3% per year on average, particularly in segments that are less affected by inexpensive imports from Asia, such as tire cords or nonwoven fabrics. Textile filaments will remain the fastest growing product because of increasing textile requirements in the emerging world.
Polyester fiber is the single-largest-volume fiber used globally, taking about a 50% share of the overall man-made and natural fiber market. Since 2000, demand for polyester fiber has grown at a sustained average rate of about 5% per year globally, owing to its low cost as well as versatility and relatively large spectrum of applications (from heavy-duty industrial applications to consumer apparel). The main competing fiber for polyester is cotton.
POLYESTER’S PRODUCTION PROCESS Polyester fibers or threads are made using a spinning process. There are two types of spinning processes. One is the filament type, where long fibers are twisted together, and the spun types, in which short pieces of fiber are combined to form something called “staple.” These processes allow for material blends to be made using cotton or wool spun in with the polyester.
CONDENSATION POLYMERIZATION
1
MELT-SPUN FIBER
2
Acid and alcohol are reacted in a vacuum at high temperatures it results in condensation polymerization. Once the polymerization has occurred the material is extruded onto a casting trough in the form of a ribbon. Once cool, the ribbon hardens and is cut into chips.
The chips are dried completely. Hopper reservoirs are then used to melt the chips. A unique feature of polyester is that it is melt-spun fiber. The chips are heated, extruded through spinnerets and cools upon hitting the air. It is then loosely wound around cylinders.
DRAWING
3
The fibers consequently formed are hot stretched to about five times their original length. This helps to reduce the fiber width. This fiber is now ready and would into cones as filaments. It can also be crimped and cut into staple lengths as per requirements.
TYPES 1
Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) PET is the most popular type as it is applicable to a wider variety of uses and is stronger For manufacturing PET Polyester, the main raw material is ethylene derived from petroleum. It is oxidized to produce a glycol monomer dihydric alcohol which is further combined with another monomer, terephthalic acid at a high temperature in a vacuum. Polymerization, the chemical process that produces the finished polyester, is done with the help of catalysts. The colorless molten polyester then flows from a slot in a vessel on to a casting wheel and takes shape of a ribbon as it cools to hardness. The polymer thus produced is then cut into very small chips, dried to remove all moisture and blended to make it uniform for getting it ready for spinning into yarn.
2
Poly-1, 4-cyclohexylene-dimethylene (PCDT)
PCDT is more elastic and resilient and is used in heavier consumer applications. This variation of polyester is made by condensing terephthalic acid with 1, 4-cyclohexane-dimethanol to form poly-1, 4-cyclohexylene-dimethylene terephthalate or the PCDT Polyester. As for PET Polyester, PCDT is processed for melt spinning.
3
SYNTHETIC POLYESTER
Synthetic polyester is made using a chemical reaction involving coal, petroleum, air and water. Polyester is made up of purified terephthalic acid (PTS) or its dimethyl ester dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) and monotheluene glycol (MEG). It holds 10% of the market share for all plastic materials, coming third in terms of popularity after polyethylene (33.5%) and polypropylene (19.5%).
TYPES OF YARN 1
FILAMENT YARNS
PET Polyester is used to make filament yarns either in monofilament or multifilament forms. The direction and amount of twists are decided by the desired end use. The properties are also pre-determined. There are various types of such yarns. There is the bright, regular tenacity polyester yarn having light, stretch and sag resistance, used for sheer lightweight fabrics like tulle, voile and organdy. The regular tenacity semi dull yarn used for various apparels including lingerie. Its more dull version is used for shirts and blouses. Polyester yarns resistant to various chemicals, and micro organisms are produced from high tenacity fibers for such industrial uses as conveyor belts, ropes and nets etc.
2
TEXTURED YARNS
3
SPUN YARNS
These yarns are made of PET multifilaments. Texturizing is either done along with the drawing process or afterwards during throwing or texturizing process.
They are made of staple or cut PET or PCDT polyester fibers. The staple may be bright, semi dull or dull and tenacity may be regular, mid or high. It may be polished to reduce crimp and increase luster. It may either be spun alone or blended with other staple such as cotton, wool or rayon and then spun into yarn.
SUSTAINABILITY Polyester is cheap and versatile and for that reason it has become ubiquitous in fashion, but the environmental impacts of polyester are also significant. Polyester is a synthetic petroleum-based fibre, and is made from a carbon-intensive non-renewable resource. Petroleum products are used as feedstock (raw material to make the fibre) and also used to generate the energy needed to manufacture. More than 70 million barrels of oil are used to make polyester each year. It is not bio-degradable and will persist in the eco-system even as it eventually breaks apart. In fact, it is believed that synthetic garments are the biggest source of microplastic pollution in the oceans because up to 1900 fibres can be washed off one garment every time it is washed. It is less energy intensive than nylon production wise, it requires more than double the energy of conventional cotton to produce. The production of polyester uses harmful chemicals, including carcinogens, and if emitted to water and air untreated, can cause significant environmental damage. Most polyester is produced in countries such as China, Indonesia and Bangladesh where environmental regulations are lax, and air and water pollution is often discharged untreated, resulting in significant pollution and harm to communities in the vicinity of manufacturing plants. The water-intensity of production is much lower than for natural fibres. However, polyester cannot be dyed using low impact and natural dyes. One of the most positive aspects of polyester is that it is completely recyclable, and it is also possible to manufacture polyester from recycled plastics. This means that we can access the benefits of polyester without needing to manufacture from virgin petroleum stocks. There are an increasing number of new polyester-type fabrics that are made from recycled plastics, including the certified recycled fabric Repreve, which is made from recycled plastic bottles and is commonly used in sportswear and men’s swimwear. There are also some producers, such as Eco Intelligent Polyester that are infinitely recycleable and recycle old polyester clothing to create new polyester, however these are not yet common or easy to access.
SWATCHES
Champagne Baby Sequins on Mesh What the tag says 100% POLYESTER
Actual Content 100% POLYESTER
How it burns
It burns and melts slowly. It has a chemical oder and as it has a black bead that doesnt get crushed.
Weave
Fantasy Weave
Treatments Sequin embellishment throughout.
Uses
Used for fitted garments such as body con dresses but it can also be used for tailored jackets.
Dark Blue Polyester Crepe What the tag says 100% POLYESTER
Actual Content 100% POLYESTER
How it burns
It burns and melts slowly. It has a chemical oder and as it has a black bead that doesnt get crushed.
Weave
2X1 Twill Weave
Treatments
Bleaching & Yarn Dye
Uses
Uses a waterfall drape that transforms into buttoned blouses to cinched dresses and flowing tops.
Cream American Made Polyester Woven What the tag says 100% POLYESTER
Actual Content 100% POLYESTER
How it burns
It burns and melts slowly. It has a chemical oder and as it has a black bead that doesnt get crushed.
Weave Basketweave,
Treatments
Bleaching, Yarn Dye, Cut-Pile Elements in the weave
Uses
Tweed like composition, decorate household items with this textile. Could be used for outerwear as well.
Ivory Baby Sequins on Mesh What the tag says 100% POLYESTER
Actual Content 100% POLYESTER
How it burns
It burns and melts slowly. It has a chemical oder and as it has a black bead that doesnt get crushed.
Weave Fantasy Weave
Treatments Sequin embellishment
Uses
Is a fitted fabric meant for bodycon dresses. Usually used for going out apparel.
Beige, Blue, and Black Plaid Polyester Taffeta. What the tag says 100% POLYESTER
Actual Content 100% POLYESTER
How it burns
It burns and melts slowly. It has a chemical oder and as it has a black bead that doesnt get crushed.
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments Printing, Yarn Dye
Uses
Falls into a drape that characterizes the fabric as luxurious. Can be used for couture inspired cocktail dresses and skirts
Cotton Candy Pink Solid Velvet What the tag says POLYESTER, RAYON
Actual Content
POLYESTER BLEND
How it burns
Burns quickly, smells like chemicals, has light grey ash.
Weave Plain
Treatments Cut-Pile
Uses
Has a stiffer drape so it caters to fit-and-flare dresses as well as circle skirts.
White Puckered Stretch Rayon and Polyester Blend What the tag says
52% RAYON, 47% POLYESTER, 1% SPANDEX
Actual Content
POLYESTER BLEND
How it burns
Burns quickly, smells like chemicals, has light grey ash.
Weave
Plain Weave
Treatments Bleaching, Crinkled effect treatment
Uses
Has a flexible drape that gives the fabric a versatile quality. Can be used to make tanks, dresses, and tunics
Magenta Upholstery Chenille What the tag says
67%POLYESTER, 28%ACRYLIC, 5%COTTON
Actual Content
POLYESTER BLEND
How it burns
Burns quickly, smells like chemicals, has feathery grey ash.
Weave
2x2 Basketweave
Treatments Multiple dyes
Uses
Typically used for upholstery, this fabric can be used to make tweed-like jackets and other types of outerwear.
Off-White/ Metallic Gold Striped Boucle What the tag says 100% POLYESTER
Actual Content 100% POLYESTER
How it burns
It burns and melts slowly. It has a chemical oder and as it has a black bead that doesnt get crushed.
Weave
Uneven Basketweave
Treatments
Bleaching, Yarn Dye
Uses
Used as an accent or embellishment for various articles of clothing or home decor.
Hunter Polyester Boucle What the tag says 100% POLYESTER
Actual Content 100% POLYESTER
How it burns
It burns and melts slowly. It has a chemical oder and as it has a black bead that doesnt get crushed.
Weave
Fantasy Weave
Treatments Dyeing Chevron Pattern
Uses
Can be used to create cardigans, capes, scarves, and long vests. Bohemian inspired looks.
CARE LABELS
67% POLYESTER, 30% RAYON, 3% SPANDEX Hand wash Non-chlorine bleach if needed Dry flat Maximum temperature 110 degrees celsius or 230 degrees farenheight Do not dryclean
78% POLYESTER, 22% VISCOSE Water Temperature not above 40 degrees celsius or 105 degrees farenheight Do not bleach Do not tumbledry Maximum temperature 150 degrees celsius or 300 degrees farenheight
100% POLYESTER Water temperature not above 30 degrees celsius or 80 degrees farenheight Non-chlorine bleach if needed Dry normal, low heat Maximum temperature 110 degrees celsius or 230 degrees farenheight
FABRIC SUPPLIERS 1. Mood Fabrics - 225 W 37th Street New York, NY 10018 - info@moodfabrics.com - 1-855-630-6663 - contact person : Sharon - specialty: Leather / Various 2. Measure - 311 Whitaker Street Savannah, GA 31401 - email : n/a - 1-912-209-0942 - Contact Person : MK - Specialty : Leather Selection 3. Fabrika - 2A E Liberty Street Savannah, GA 31401 - email: n/a - 1-912-236-1122 - Contact Person: Emily - Specialty: PFD Fabrics 4. Cone Denim - 804 Green Valley Road, Suite 300 Greensboro, NC 27408 - email: delores.sides@conedenim.com - 1-336-379-2903 - Contact Person : Delores Sides - Specialty: Denim 5. SAFEDENIM - 430 Littlefield, TX 79339 - email: sales@safedenim.com - 1-806-385-4129 - Contact Person: Alexander - Specialty: Denim
6. Denim North America - 1 Marubeni Dr. Columbus, Georgia - email: info@denimna.com - 1-706-569-0404 - Contact Person: Patsy Royster - Specialty: Denim 7. Hyde Park Denim - 2003 Jericho Turnpike New Hyde Park, NY 11040 - email: sales@hydeparkdenim.com - 1-516-616-6500 - Contact person : Joe Negron - Specialty: Denim 8. Shannon Fabrics - 3131 South Alameda Street, Los Angeles, CA 90058 - 1-323-234-5353 - email: Melissa @shannonfabrics.com - Contact Person : Melissa Zaldivar - Specialty: Faux Fur 9. Cap Yarns - 401 Guinn Street, Clover, S.C. 29710, P.O Box 440 - 1-704-436-6527 - email: droberts@capyarns.com - Contact Person: Mr. David Roberts - Specialty : Yarn 10. Buhler Quality Yarns Corporation - 1881 Athens Highway, Jefferson GA 30549 - 1-706-367-9834 - email: dsasso@buhleryarn.com - Contact Person : David Sasso - Specialty : Yarn
11. Carolina Cotton Works (CCW) - 14 Commerce Drive, Meadow Creek Industrial Park, Gaffney, SC 29340 - 1-864-488-2824 - email: bryan@carolinacotton.com - Contact Person : Bryan - Specialty: Cotton
16. C&J Textiles - 230 W 38th Street, 7th floor, New York NY 10018 - 1-212-354-0040 - email: sales@cjtextile.com - contact person: Jesse - Specialty: Silk
12. Cotsworld Industries / Central Textiles - 237 Mills Avenue, Central, SC 29630 - 1-212-689-3432 - email: james@cotsworldindustries. com - Contact Person: James - Specialty: Weaving
17. Fishman’s Fabrics - 1101 South Desplaines Street Chicago Illinois 60607 USA - 1-312-922-7250 - email: gfishman@fishmansfabrics. com - Contact Person: Josie - Specialty : High End Fabric
13. JB Silks - Ferndale, WA, USA - 1-877-877-3069 - email: info@jbsilks.com - Contact person : Janice Schmidt - Specialty: Silk
18. Eastern Silk Mills - 110 E 9th Street, C1019 Los Angeles, CA, 90079 - 1-213-488-3311 - email: la@easternsilkmills.com - Contact Person: Chong Chul Kim - Specialty: Silk
14. Americana Silks - 75 Start Street, Plains, PA 18705 - 1-570-822-7147 - email: sales@americansilk.com - contact person: - specialty: Silk 15. Berenstein Textiles - 270 W. 39th street, 20th floor New York, NY 10018 - 1-212-354-5213 - email: felix@berensteintextiles.com - Contact Person: Paulina Berenstein - Specialty: Silk / Silk Blends / Wool / Wool Blends
19. Natasha International Inc. - 226 West 37th Street, 7th Floor, New York, NY 10018 - 1-212-629-0880 - email: info@vishalent.com - Contact Person: Abdus Salam - Specialty: Silks and Velvets 20. Absolut Textiles - 13942 20a Ave, Surrey, BC, V4A 9X4 Canda - 1-(604)-535-6735 - email: info@abtext.co.ca - Contact Person: - Specialty : Silk / Silk Blends
21. AVA Textiles - 49 W 38th Street, New York, NY 10018 - 1-212-730-8852 - info@avatextiles.com - Contact Person: Cara - Specialty: Polyester 22. B. Black and Sons - 548 South Los Angeles Street, Los Angeles, CA 90013 - 1-213-624-9451 - email: info@BBlackAndSons.com - Contact Person: Shanna Black - Specialty: Wool 23. BHN International Textile Inc. - 1050 S Stanford Avenue, Suite 108, Los Angeles CA 90021 - 1-213-688-4070 - email: Bhn95@live.com - Contact Person: Mike Rafi - Specialty : Woven Fabrics 24. Calamo Silk Inc. - 251 West 39th Street 5th Floor, New York, NY 10018 - 1-212-840-1570 - email: info@calamosilk.com - Contact Person: Jamie White - Specialty: Silk 25. Robert Allen Beacon Hill - 49 Wireless Boulevard, Suite 150, Hauppauge, NY 11788 - 1-800-333-3777 - email: research@robertallendesign. com - Contact Person: J Weill - Specialty: Cotton
BIBLIOGRAPHY https://www.cotton.org/pubs/cottoncounts/story/ http://www.urbanara.co.uk/journal/buying-guide/about-cotton/ http://blog.oregonlive.com/homesandgardens/2009/06/cotton_fabric_types.html http://www.cottoncampus.org/cotton-environmentally-friendly-sustainability/ http://www.historyofclothing.com/textile-history/history-of-linen/ http://www.urbanara.co.uk/journal/buying-guide/linen/ https://study.com/academy/lesson/textile-properties-of-linen.html http://textilefashionstudy.com/top-flax-growing-countries-of-the-world-linen-fiber-production/ https://www.decktowel.com/pages/how-linen-is-made-from-flax-to-fabric http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Linen.html#ixzz53qIjPPuZ https://blog.patra.com/2015/09/14/types-of-linen/ https://zady.com/features/outliving-the-reign-of-kings-the-importance-of-linen https://blog.patra.com/2015/09/14/types-of-linen/ http://www.iwto.org/history-wool https://www.linenme.com/news/find-out-types-and-benefits-of-wool/ http://ag.ansc.purdue.edu/sheep/ansc442/semprojs/2002/wool/characteristics.htm http://www.madehow.com/Volume-1/Wool.html#ixzz53qOhNtnG http://www.madehow.com/Volume-1/Wool.html#ixzz53qOpCFxL http://www.iwto.org/biodegradeability http://www.silk-road.com/artl/silkhistory.shtml https://texeresilk.com/article/history_of_silk http://www.urbanara.co.uk/journal/buying-guide/origins-of-silk/
BIBLIOGRAPHY https://texeresilk.com/article/silk_making_how_to_make_silk https://goodonyou.eco/is-silk-sustainable/ https://startupfashion.com/fashion-archives-history-silk/ http://textileschool.com/articles/87/acrylic-fibres-manmade-artificial-fibres https://www.ihs.com/images/Acrylic-Modacrylic-Fibers-455x309_164425110917062932.png https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2508&context=extension_curall http://www.aksa.com/en/products/what-is-acrylic-fiber-/what-is-acrylic-fiber-/i-56 http://textileschool.com/articles/87/acrylic-fibres-manmade-artificial-fibres https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/04/21/ethical-fabrics-to-consider-the-ugly-draft/ https://www.ihs.com/products/polyester-fibers-chemical-economics-handbook.html http://www.whatispolyester.com/manufacturing.html http://www.craftechind.com/how-is-polyester-made/ http://www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/polyester-manufacturing.html http://www.tortoiseandladygrey.com/2016/08/29/environmental-impacts-polyester/