Weekend in Mammoth, California

life | weekend

weekend Mammoth,California

PHOTO COURTESY THE MAMMOTH MOUNTAIN SKI AREA

Once a winter weekend ritual for Californians in search of adventure, Mammoth has become a world-renowned four-season destination

Eleven-thousand-foot Mammoth Mountain’s 3,500 acres of skiable terrain are blessed with the perfect combination of 400-plus inches of snow and 300 days of sunshine each year.

STORY BY CHRISTINE DEORIO

Day 1: Saturday Before heading out for your first day on the slopes, be sure to dress for the weather; in Mammoth, where the mornings are chilly, the afternoons are toasty and the wind is almost always gusting, that means layers and lots of sunscreen. Energize with a breakfast at Restaurant LuLu, sister to the famed San Francisco eatery. Here, your options range from freshly made granola drizzled with lavender honey to a baked egg sandwich filled with fontina cheese, scallions, house-made sausage and romesco sauce. But today, order the ricotta pancakes topped with candied pecans, mascarpone butter, sliced pears and warm pear syrup. Regulars say they’ll change your life; at the very least, they’ll get your busy weekend off to a perfect start.

There’s no better place to work off breakfast than on the mountain. But first, set up camp at the Broadway Lofts.

Located in the newly renovated Main Lodge, this private cabana-inspired space is your home for the day, >> ML | January 2007 57

life | weekend

weekend

GRAND SIERRA LODGE

THE VILLAGE

Day 2: Sunday There are plenty of places to grab a quick morning bite in Mammoth. Pick up a real boiled bagel and coffee at the Old New York Deli & Bagel Co., some home-baked goodies at the Breakfast Club, or a crepe at the Side Door. If you’re in the mood for a more leisurely brunch, try the charming Alpenrose Sierra Grill. >>

where to stay GRAND SIERRA LODGE Located in the Village, just steps from the gondola, these cozy condos offer gorgeous décor, kitchens, fireplaces and balconies.

Outdoor hot tubs and fire pits are the perfect places to unwind. (800) MAMMOTH, mammoth mountain.com

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TAMARACK LODGE & RESORT Secluded cabins—each with a fireplace and porch—and lodge rooms hug the shores of Twin Lakes. The 10-table Lakefront Restaurant offers a romantic setting and California-French cuisine. (800) MAMMOTH, tamaracklodge.com

JUNIPER SPRINGS RESORT Located at Eagle Lodge and Eagle Express chairlift, these slopeside, family-friendly studio to three-bedroom condos and townhomes are quiet and private, yet close to town. (800) MAMMOTH, mammoth mountain.com

SIDE DOOR CAFÉ ABOVE: The Village is Mammoth’s central hub and the place to find luxe accommodations, fine dining, boutique shopping, art galleries, pubs and brew houses, free entertainment and events.

PHOTO COURTESY THE MAMMOTH MOUNTAIN SKI AREA

complete with wait service, great views, and plenty of room to stretch out. Next, head to the Mountain Center next to the Village Gondola station to gear up. For access to a wide variety of runs, take the Village Gondola to Canyon Lodge, then hop on the high-speed quad Canyon Express. Free-riding skiers and snowboarders of all skill levels will want to check out the Unbound Terrain Parks’ three pipes (Olympic athletes love to train on the Super Duper Pipe’s 18-foot walls) and more than 50 jumps and 40 jibs. Don’t miss the Boneyard Bonanza in Main Park—built from recycled chairlifts and equipment—and the “Once Upon a Time” junk-turned-jibs in South Park. Before heading back down the mountain for lunch, ride the Panorama Gondola up to Panorama Lookout. At 11,053 feet, it offers spectacular views of the jagged Sierra Madres.

If your idea of the perfect afternoon is four more hours on the slopes, head back to the Main Lodge’s food-court-style Broadway Marketplace, where you’ll find plenty of quick bites to enjoy back at your loft.

If you’re ready for new adventures, however, head to the Village for a panini at the Side Door. After lunch, take the short ride on the Orange Line bus from the Village to the Tamarack Cross Country Ski Center, located in the nearby Mammoth Lakes Basin. Gear up and head out onto 18 miles of groomed cross-country ski and snowshoe trails that wind past seven high Sierra lakes. After skiing, walk over to the historic Tamarack Lodge and warm up near the fire with a hot buttered rum or “hot apple pie” (spiked cider with whipped cream).

You can stay at the lodge and enjoy California-French cuisine—and views of Twin Lakes—at the intimate Lakefront Restaurant. But if you’re still feeling adventurous, make reservations for a Parallax Snowcat Dinner. A state-of-the-art, 12-passenger snowcat will whisk you up the mountain to Parallax, Mammoth’s highest fine-dining restaurant, where you’ll feast on five courses of high-country cuisine —and a panoramic view of the Minarets.

life | weekend

Next, if you have young ski pros in tow, treat them to a morning at the Canyon Family Fun Zone. Here, little ones can try out the mini halfpipe, low-to-the-snow rails and small-size jumps. If this is a kid-free trip, now is a great time to hit the slopes again. But if your legs are in need of a rest, dog sledding just might fit the bill. Mammoth Dog Teams gives you a rare chance to explore the backcountry with a team of locally trained Malamutes and Siberian and Alaskan Huskies as your guides. For $95 per person, the one-hour Minaret Vista Lookout Ride offers beautiful views and a great education on the inner workings of the team.

All that mushing can work up a powerful appetite. A great place to fill up on healthy fare is the Village’s popular Pita Pit, where giant pitas are filled with fresh vegetables and grilled-to-order meats. While you’re in the Village, take some time to explore the shops that line the streets. Visit the Mammoth Gallery, where you’ll find works by local artists, and Sierra and wildlife photography by locals including Warren Magill, Vern Clevenger and Jim Stimson, as well as a wide range of historic ski prints. Treat the kids to a trip to Munchkins, a childrens’ boutique filled with kids’ fashions, puzzles, games and toys, then end your shopping trip with a stop in McCoy Sports; with a wide selection of out60

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PHOTO COURTESY TAMARACK LODGE & RESORT

BELOW: Surrounded by California’s Eastern Sierra mountains, the historic Tamarack Lodge and Resort has been welcoming visitors to the shores of Twin Lakes since 1924.

door gear, it’s the best place to get outfitted for your next adventure.

By now, you’ve explored Mammoth by foot, ski, snowshoe and dogsled, but there’s no better way to cover lots of ground fast than by snowmobile. Head to Mammoth Snowmobile Adventures and take a 1.5- or 3-hour self-guided ride through Mammoth’s legendary backcountry and the Inyo National Forest, or let a guide come along for the ride to show you the best places to cruise.

As the shadows grow longer and you grow weary, head to Petra’s Wine Bar, a favorite of wine aficionados, and warm up with a glass of Syrah by the fire. Now that you’re feeling relaxed, it’s time to think about food, and about returning to Restaurant LuLu. Start with a few small plates—you may need two orders to get your fill of the fritto misto of artichokes, fennel and lemon with aioli and parmesan—then think seriously about the rotisserie special: tonight it’s certified Angus prime rib with a potato-onion gratin and porcini butter. If there’s a full moon, be sure to skip dessert, as you’ll be ending the day with a Full Moon Tour, a naturalist-guided snowshoe or cross-country ski tour through the moonlit backcountry, followed by a fireside dessert at the historic Tamarack Lodge; it’s the perfect way to conclude this busy weekend of adventure and indulgence, Mammoth-style.

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