DE1162 KATIE SPEAKE PROUD ISSUE

DAZED

iNO.1 THE PROUD ISSUE WINTER 2014

proud

proud No.1 THE PROUD ISSUE WINTER 2014

winter 2014

the proud issue no.1

PROUD contents.

4 12 JASON KOJO COLOUR ME PROUD

to be PROUD

PROUD. 3

10 LACK OF BLACK

RACIAL DISCRIMINATION

JASON KojO COLOUR ME

PHOTOGRAPHY AND STYLING katie speake

MODEL JASON KOJO STYLING KATIE SPEAKE PHOTOGRAPY KATIE SPEAKE JASON WEARS BOOTS BY DR MARTEN

Wearing

dr martens

Wearing

AMERICAN APPAREL

AND

TOPMAN

“to be Proud is

CELEBRATING DIVERSITY”

lack of

black

TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY KATIE SPEAKE

Can menswear progress past racial discrimination?

Maya Angelou once said “We all should know that diversity makes for a rich tapestry, and we must understand that all the threads of the tapestry are equal in value no matter what their color.” Long after the civil rights movement changed the rest of society, and over two decades since Tyson Beckford became the first African-American model to sign with Ralph Lauren, has that much changed in menswear fashion by 2014?

In recent months, black female models Jourdan Dunn, Naomi Campbell and Chanel Iman have successfully become the mouthpiece for speaking out against disregarding diversity in the industry. That said, the issue goes further than just womenswear. It is no hidden truth that black male models are too often confined to sportswear and rarely declared to runway. Why? Spring 2014 Season saw white models dominate the runway by 79.98% whilst black models appeared just 8.08%. Malcholm Mafara previously stated “In my opinion, it all comes down to the consumers.

It’s about what the general public reacts to, and if a white model sells more then at the end of the day this is a business. But..” he clarified, “Sometimes it’s about taking a chance and changing people’s perception of beauty.”

Autumn/Winter 14 appeared to signify a revolt against racial discrimination when Jourdan Copeland was introduced as the first black male model to walk for Burberry. “But it’s 2014. What took so long??” and “Really?? Just now?

Wow!” are just two among many social media outbursts after the announcement was made. Twenty years after Naomi Campbell was the first black woman to walk for Prada you have to question whether the barrier has been broken or whether black male models are being used as a token piece.

“london is one of the most amazing multi-cultural cities and i just feel that needs to be represented in fashion” Joel Mignott,18 who has begun to pave his way into the industry with a Jamaican Polish and Irish heritage says “I think each designer has their own criteria as to how they visualize their final product and yes most designers do tend to lean more towards white models.”, he adds “It’s improved a lot but a few designers still need a kick up the arse.”.

Breaking the mould and pushing racial boundaries, designer Ashish Gupta was fearless with his choice of an all black cast for his Spring/Summer15 show. The industry has not seen such a statement since the Battle of Versailles Fashion show in 1973, enough to make you question the progression of race within fashion. When asked by Dazed Digital on his choice of casting, Ashish stated “You know, if a designer has all white in their show, nobody asks for the reasons behind the casting, which I think is really strange. We live in a multi-cultural society. London is one of the most amazing multi-cultural cities and I just feel that needs to be represented in fashion.” It speaks volume in itself that onlookers see Ashish’s choice as a “novelty” statement, whilst an all white cast would be regarded as “normality”.

Fashion in 2014 has reflectively offered a glimpse of hope. The question we must ask ourselves - will this be a lasting change or will it fade into the darkness of indifference? Out of the few designers who have attempted to revolutionize, there are still many who daren’t or simply don’t want to be different. John F Kennedy once proclaimed “This nation was founded by men of many nations and backgrounds. It was founded on the principle that all men are created equal.”

It is a hope that fashion might catch up to this sentiment.

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PROUD 13

MODEL JASON KOJO DA LA MARIA RESTURAUNT NOTTINGHILL

To be proud is to be unafraid

PROUD 17

winter 2014

THE PROUD ISSUE