MASK MAGAZINE I
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MASK MAGAZINE LOOKS INTO THE BEAUTY OF DIVERSITY, CELEBRATING AND EXPLORING THE VARIATION OF INDIVIDUALITY. IN THIS ISSUE WE LOOK INTO THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN AGE AND LUXURY FASHION ADVERTISING. WE HOPE YOU ENJOY.
“DIVERSITY: THE ART OF THINKING INDEPENDENTLY TOGETHER.” -Malcolm Forbes
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“I THINK THAT THE OLDER I’VE BECOME, THE MORE I ACCEPT MYSELF AND HOW I LOOK. PHYSCIAL ROLE MODELS ARE GREAT BUT THEY SHOULDN’T BE OUR MAIN AMBITION.” -NIZA
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IN WITH THE OLD By LAUREN ASHDOWN
FASHION IS A FAST-PACED INDUSTRY WHICH DEMANDS A CONSTANT RENEWAL OF INNOVATIVE CONCEPTS. HOWEVER, ONE THING THAT DOESN’T CHANGE AS WE TURN THE PAGES OF OUR FASHION MAGAZINES IS THE AGE OF THE MODELS. THE FASHION WORLD IS A PLAYGROUND FOR THE YOUNG AND BEAUTIFUL TO ADMIRE, ASPIRE AND GROW, BUT IS IT FAILING TO FULFIL THE NEEDS OF THE OLDER GENERATION? IS THERE A PLACE FOR GREYS WITHIN LUXURY FASHION ADVERTISING? -8-
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“THERE SHOULD BE A SENSE OF UNITY AND DIVERSITY WITHIN FASHION ADVERTISING. I UNDERSTAND THAT FASHION IS A YOUNG, ENERGETIC INDUSTRY BUT IT SHOULD CONNECT WITH PEOPLE OF ALL AGES.”
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ach August, British Vogue publishes their annual age issue as a celebration of age. However, its very isolation from other issues speaks volumes for the relationship between age and luxury fashion. Whilst there can be a classic style or eccentricity to the older generations wardrobe, it is a less distinct and rarely targeted audience.
Vivienne Westwood’s 2013/14 campaign, shot by Juergen Teller, was fronted by 60-year-old musician Leslie Winer. Additionally, 70-year-old Catherine Deneuve featured in a recent Louis Vuitton campaign. Although this introduction of older models may be a marketing stunt, its reception and implications could affect the ways brands select their models in the future.
The grey pound represents a potentially profitable segment of the market; Condè Nast reported that Vogue’s median age is 38.5, yet the magazine’s use of young and fresh-faced models fails to represent this audience. Whilst it’s understandable that some luxury brands design solely for the young, it’s unjust that fashion magazines only use young role models and ignore the physical aspirations of older women.
In 2012 Ben Barry, the director of the Fashion Diversity Lab at Ryerson University, Canada, surveyed women over the age of 35 and found them 200% more likely to buy a product advertised by someone of a similar age, and 65% less likely to when they didn’t reflect their age. This emphasises the importance of role models and aspirations in relation to purchasing. Luxury fashion brands alienate the old in favour of appealing to a completely young market.
Elaine Ruane, 43, from Peterborough commented, “There should be a sense of unity and diversity within fashion advertising. I understand that fashion is a young, energetic industry but it should connect with people of all ages. It would be nice to see more variation.” Emily Baker, 19, a fashion student from Huntingdon added, “I agree that there is a bias within fashion advertising when it comes to age, however I don’t know how likely it is to change with fashion being such an established and leading industry.” In contrast to high fashion campaigns featuring young and conventionally perfect women, some brands have produced advertisements using older models.
Alongside isolating the older generation in luxury advertising, high street retailers also provide limited choice for their middle aged consumers. Lorraine Cooper, 51, from Newcastle said, “The older I have become, the less of a connection I have with fashion. I am now faced with only the option of classic styles with a seasonal change of colour.” With the Office of National Statistics reporting that over half of the UK’s population are over 40, the fashion industry is obviously failing to cater for a vital audience. Despite vast development over the last 15 years, the industry remains dominated by a very narrow-minded beauty ideal and lacks a sense union regarding age. Advertisements should not only sell a brand and its products to the masses,
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they should inspire and resonate with the people. This should not exclude an entire crucial demographic. Even though designers are beginning to remem Wber to care for their elders, in such an established and quick-to-criticise industry it may be some time before we see a more representative selection of models used in our fashion magazines. There is a place for greys in fashion.
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EMBRACING DIVERSITY.
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