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Issue /// One

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THE DIVERSITY ISSUE

CNSRD Un-Censored Magazine /

Girls can dress like guys Vice versa, its great

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‘Fashion seems to be ASS backwards’

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FUCK GENDER

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“Fashion seems to be ass

backwards!”

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PHOTOGRAPHY Erika Bowes MODEL Amber Lowang SHIRT, TROUSERS Monki SHOES Cheap Monday

AMBER

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‘ F a s h s e e to be ass ’ ’ s d r a w

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The subject of ‘diversity’ in the fashion industry seems to have become restricted to the familiar terms, ‘racism’ and ‘sizeism’, leaving the unfamiliar, well, unfamiliar. I catch up with two boundary pushing, ‘parttime’ models Amber Wang and Ben Bowes who share their opinions on the industry’s specific criteria of looks.

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TEXT Erika Bowes

When I posted the question, ‘What are your opinions about diversity in the fashion industry?’, on my Tumblr, with a following of 65,000+ (mainly teen girls and guys), the responses were as following; ‘ There is not enough!’, ‘it should be encouraged so that all models are able to get an equal chance of getting a job’ and ‘fashion seems to be ass backwards re: diversity’.

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We all have a

caucasian. We are more

obviously had to let

predetermined idea

likely to see the average

down some of the photo

of what is known as

person with blemishes

shoots and events due

‘diverse’ in fashion.

and asymmetry. Not

to my pregnancy as it

But with all the rapid

the ultra-preen faces of

was not the look they

changes happening it’s

Natalia Vodianovas and

were going for,” adds

not really that diverse

Jon Kortajarenas, which

Amber. The fashion

anymore. “The agencies

are typically dominating

industry unfortunately

usually go for models

the mundane world of

advertises an unrealistic

of the same height,

Casting Directors. “It’s

(or for them a

weight and race which

very frustrating to see

conventional) body

is unrealistic and gets

the lack of diversity in

image, when it should

boring,” says Amber

models, it makes me

be promoting differences

Wang, part-time model

assume designers expect

and individuality. “My

and seven months

a very specific audience

disability has affected

pregnant. In this instance

and customers,” says

the possibility of getting

I’m not referring to

Ben Bowes, part-time

a modelling job, usually

‘diverse models’ who

model and hearing

through discrimination. I

are ‘petite’ if a female is

aid wearer. Slim, tall

was told to take out my

under 5’7 and male 5’9,

and caucasian are all

hearing aids for a shoot,

‘plus-size’ if a female

common characteristics

as it was ‘unsightly’,”

is above size 10 and

that have become the

says Ben.

male 34” or ‘racially

desired look when

diverse’ if a model isn’t

recruiting, “I have

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tel ot dah ylsuoivbo

erom era eW .naisacuac

a evah lla eW

otohp eht fo emos nwod

egareva eht ees ot ylekil

aedi denimretederp

eud stneve dna stoohs tel ot dah ylsuoivbo ti sa ycnangerp ym ot otohp eht fo emos nwod yeht kool eht ton saw eud stneve dna stoohs sdda ”,rof gniog erew ti sa ycnangerp ym ot noihsaf ehT .rebmA yeht kool eht ton saw yletanutrofnu yrtsudni sdda ”,rof gniog erew citsilaernu na sesitrevda noihsaf ehT .rebmA a meht rof ro( yletanutrofnu yrtsudni ydob )lanoitnevnoc citsilaernu na sesitrevda dluohs ti nehw ,egami a meht rof ro( secnereffid gnitomorp eb ydob )lanoitnevnoc yM“ .ytilaudividni dna dluohs ti nehw ,egami detceffa sah ytilibasid secnereffid gnitomorp eb gnitteg fo ytilibissop eht yM“ .ytilaudividni dna yllausu ,boj gnilledom a detceffa sah ytilibasid I .noitanimircsid hguorht gnitteg fo ytilibissop eht ym tuo ekat ot dlot saw yllausu ,boj gnilledom a ,toohs a rof sdia gniraeh I .noitanimircsid hguorht ”,’ylthgisnu‘ saw ti sa ym tuo ekat ot dlot saw .neB syas ,toohs a rof sdia gniraeh

sehsimelb htiw nosrep erom era eW .naisacuac toN .yrtemmysa dna egareva eht ees ot ylekil fo secaf neerp-artlu eht sehsimelb htiw nosrep dna savonaidoV ailataN toN .yrtemmysa dna hcihw ,sanerajatroK noJ fo secaf neerp-artlu eht gnitanimod yllacipyt era dna savonaidoV ailataN fo dlrow enadnum eht hcihw ,sanerajatroK noJ s’tI“ .srotceriD gnitsaC gnitanimod yllacipyt era ees ot gnitartsurf yrev fo dlrow enadnum eht ni ytisrevid fo kcal eht s’tI“ .srotceriD gnitsaC em sekam ti ,sledom ees ot gnitartsurf yrev tcepxe srengised emussa ni ytisrevid fo kcal eht ecneidua cificeps yrev a em sekam ti ,sledom syas ”,sremotsuc dna tcepxe srengised emussa emit-trap ,sewoB neB ecneidua cificeps yrev a gniraeh dna ledom syas ”,sremotsuc dna llat ,milS .reraew dia emit-trap ,sewoB neB lla era naisacuac dna gniraeh dna ledom scitsiretcarahc nommoc llat ,milS .reraew dia eht emoceb evah taht lla era naisacuac dna nehw kool derised scitsiretcarahc nommoc evah I“ ,gnitiurcer eht emoceb evah taht

sa nwonk si tahw fo a evah lla eW .noihsaf ni ’esrevid‘ aedi denimretederp dipar eht lla htiw tuB sa nwonk si tahw fo s’ti gnineppah segnahc .noihsaf ni ’esrevid‘ esrevid taht yllaer ton dipar eht lla htiw tuB seicnega ehT“ .eromyna s’ti gnineppah segnahc sledom rof og yllausu esrevid taht yllaer ton ,thgieh emas eht fo seicnega ehT“ .eromyna hcihw ecar dna thgiew sledom rof og yllausu steg dna citsilaernu si ,thgieh emas eht fo rebmA syas ”,gnirob hcihw ecar dna thgiew ledom emit-trap ,gnaW steg dna citsilaernu si shtnom neves dna rebmA syas ”,gnirob ecnatsni siht nI .tnangerp ledom emit-trap ,gnaW ot gnirrefer ton m’I shtnom neves dna ohw ’sledom esrevid‘ ecnatsni siht nI .tnangerp si elamef a fi ’etitep‘ era ot gnirrefer ton m’I ,9’5 elam dna 7’5 rednu ohw ’sledom esrevid‘ elamef a fi ’ezis-sulp‘ si elamef a fi ’etitep‘ era dna 01 ezis evoba si ,9’5 elam dna 7’5 rednu yllaicar‘ ro ”43 elam elamef a fi ’ezis-sulp‘ t’nsi ledom a fi ’esrevid dna 01 ezis evoba si

nehw kool derised

yllaicar‘ ro ”43 elam

evah I“ ,gnitiurcer

t’nsi ledom a fi ’esrevid

”,’ylthgisnu‘ saw ti sa

01

.neB syas

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“The agencies usually go for models representing one type of height, weight, race and appearance, which is unrealistic and gets boring.� Amber Wang

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BEN 14

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“I was told to take out my hearing aids for a shoot, as it was ‘unsightly’.”Ben Bowes

PHOTOGRAPHY Erika Bowes MODEL Ben Bowes SHIRT, TROUSERS Asos SHOES Asos

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But there is no doubt that the industry is progressing. In the October 2013 issue of Clash Magazine I was stunned to see Moffy, a model with a compelling look. Her Strabismus, know as ‘cross-eye’, is what made her fascinating.

It was refreshing to see a model with a completely different look on a conventional editorial.

Moffy is the epitome of uniqueness and authenticity; words that may have lost their meaning to a trivial case of ‘gap-tooth’ or a fuller set of bristly eyebrows.

An encouraging fashion brand that uses the currency of visual imagery to its best is Debenhams.

With the help from Caryn Franklin, the brand managed to recruit models with a variation of characteristics, e.g. athletes with prosthetic limbs, which ensured diversity was a key element in their brand paradigm. ‘If a hearing impaired girl sees another model with hearing impairment wearing a hat, its easier for her to imagine what it would look like on herself, as she can relate with that hearing disabled

model,’ says Ben. Not all influencers in fashion conform.

Edward Enninful, W’s Fashion And Style Director says, “Without diversity creativity remains stagnant.”

Casting directors, designers and the publishing industry that have the power to iconize all different bodies. “Having a larger diversity will bring more confidence into the public interms of clothing,” says Ben. So why is it still unusual, in the 21st century, to see models less than the cookie-cutter perfect?

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Edward Enninful

“Without diversity creativity remains s G

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Poppy & Nathan

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What does sexuality mean to you? I don't think sexuality is really a 'thing' anymore I don't think it’s important. obviously I think there's people that are 100% straight but I’d say there’s more and more people that find someone attractive regardless of their gender. - Nathan

How is sexuality portrayed in the fashion industry? I think sexuality in fashion is mostly represented through but fashion is something that has always been more important and directed at women. More reduce the divide between men and women in any industry - Nathan

PHOTOGRAPHY Erika Bowes MODEL Nathan Ward, Poppy Lockwood STYLING Erika Bowes

h the eye of a man, the creative directors of some of the biggest labels, Balmain, Chanel are men and more female models are look more masculine and vice versa, I think it's a good thing to

What does sexuality mean to you? Sexuality for me is something that isn’t really important. Your attracted to which has increased pressure on what is the right “type” of sexuality - Poppy

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what you like and you should always acknowledge that. There’s too much emphasis on sexuality

How is sexuality portrayed in the fashion industry? I feel you can express your sexuality through fashion and you always kinda have been able to especially since the punk era. Girls can dress like guys and visa versa. It’s great! - Poppy

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Describe your friendship with poppy? Me and poppy are like the same person, We’re obviously best friends and there’s nothing I wouldn’t tell her I think everyone needs someone like her in their lives.

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Describe your friendship with Nathan? Nathan is my best friend. Our friendship is kinda like a brother and sister relationship. I can tell him anything and I can be truthful with him. Like I can say that he doesn’t look great in some shoes and he wouldn’t take offence!

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THE DIVERSITY ISSUE