Issue /// One
UN
THE DIVERSITY ISSUE
CNSRD Un-Censored Magazine /
Girls can dress like guys Vice versa, its great
PAGES
1 /
‘Fashion seems to be ASS backwards’
3-17
FUCK GENDER
18-31
2 /
1
2
1 3
1
“Fashion seems to be ass
backwards!” 4
5
PHOTOGRAPHY Erika Bowes MODEL Amber Lowang SHIRT, TROUSERS Monki SHOES Cheap Monday
AMBER
6
‘ F a s h s e e to be ass ’ ’ s d r a w
i
o
n s
m
k
c
a
b
The subject of ‘diversity’ in the fashion industry seems to have become restricted to the familiar terms, ‘racism’ and ‘sizeism’, leaving the unfamiliar, well, unfamiliar. I catch up with two boundary pushing, ‘parttime’ models Amber Wang and Ben Bowes who share their opinions on the industry’s specific criteria of looks.
7
TEXT Erika Bowes
When I posted the question, ‘What are your opinions about diversity in the fashion industry?’, on my Tumblr, with a following of 65,000+ (mainly teen girls and guys), the responses were as following; ‘ There is not enough!’, ‘it should be encouraged so that all models are able to get an equal chance of getting a job’ and ‘fashion seems to be ass backwards re: diversity’.
8
9
We all have a
caucasian. We are more
obviously had to let
predetermined idea
likely to see the average
down some of the photo
of what is known as
person with blemishes
shoots and events due
‘diverse’ in fashion.
and asymmetry. Not
to my pregnancy as it
But with all the rapid
the ultra-preen faces of
was not the look they
changes happening it’s
Natalia Vodianovas and
were going for,” adds
not really that diverse
Jon Kortajarenas, which
Amber. The fashion
anymore. “The agencies
are typically dominating
industry unfortunately
usually go for models
the mundane world of
advertises an unrealistic
of the same height,
Casting Directors. “It’s
(or for them a
weight and race which
very frustrating to see
conventional) body
is unrealistic and gets
the lack of diversity in
image, when it should
boring,” says Amber
models, it makes me
be promoting differences
Wang, part-time model
assume designers expect
and individuality. “My
and seven months
a very specific audience
disability has affected
pregnant. In this instance
and customers,” says
the possibility of getting
I’m not referring to
Ben Bowes, part-time
a modelling job, usually
‘diverse models’ who
model and hearing
through discrimination. I
are ‘petite’ if a female is
aid wearer. Slim, tall
was told to take out my
under 5’7 and male 5’9,
and caucasian are all
hearing aids for a shoot,
‘plus-size’ if a female
common characteristics
as it was ‘unsightly’,”
is above size 10 and
that have become the
says Ben.
male 34” or ‘racially
desired look when
diverse’ if a model isn’t
recruiting, “I have
10 11
tel ot dah ylsuoivbo
erom era eW .naisacuac
a evah lla eW
otohp eht fo emos nwod
egareva eht ees ot ylekil
aedi denimretederp
eud stneve dna stoohs tel ot dah ylsuoivbo ti sa ycnangerp ym ot otohp eht fo emos nwod yeht kool eht ton saw eud stneve dna stoohs sdda ”,rof gniog erew ti sa ycnangerp ym ot noihsaf ehT .rebmA yeht kool eht ton saw yletanutrofnu yrtsudni sdda ”,rof gniog erew citsilaernu na sesitrevda noihsaf ehT .rebmA a meht rof ro( yletanutrofnu yrtsudni ydob )lanoitnevnoc citsilaernu na sesitrevda dluohs ti nehw ,egami a meht rof ro( secnereffid gnitomorp eb ydob )lanoitnevnoc yM“ .ytilaudividni dna dluohs ti nehw ,egami detceffa sah ytilibasid secnereffid gnitomorp eb gnitteg fo ytilibissop eht yM“ .ytilaudividni dna yllausu ,boj gnilledom a detceffa sah ytilibasid I .noitanimircsid hguorht gnitteg fo ytilibissop eht ym tuo ekat ot dlot saw yllausu ,boj gnilledom a ,toohs a rof sdia gniraeh I .noitanimircsid hguorht ”,’ylthgisnu‘ saw ti sa ym tuo ekat ot dlot saw .neB syas ,toohs a rof sdia gniraeh
sehsimelb htiw nosrep erom era eW .naisacuac toN .yrtemmysa dna egareva eht ees ot ylekil fo secaf neerp-artlu eht sehsimelb htiw nosrep dna savonaidoV ailataN toN .yrtemmysa dna hcihw ,sanerajatroK noJ fo secaf neerp-artlu eht gnitanimod yllacipyt era dna savonaidoV ailataN fo dlrow enadnum eht hcihw ,sanerajatroK noJ s’tI“ .srotceriD gnitsaC gnitanimod yllacipyt era ees ot gnitartsurf yrev fo dlrow enadnum eht ni ytisrevid fo kcal eht s’tI“ .srotceriD gnitsaC em sekam ti ,sledom ees ot gnitartsurf yrev tcepxe srengised emussa ni ytisrevid fo kcal eht ecneidua cificeps yrev a em sekam ti ,sledom syas ”,sremotsuc dna tcepxe srengised emussa emit-trap ,sewoB neB ecneidua cificeps yrev a gniraeh dna ledom syas ”,sremotsuc dna llat ,milS .reraew dia emit-trap ,sewoB neB lla era naisacuac dna gniraeh dna ledom scitsiretcarahc nommoc llat ,milS .reraew dia eht emoceb evah taht lla era naisacuac dna nehw kool derised scitsiretcarahc nommoc evah I“ ,gnitiurcer eht emoceb evah taht
sa nwonk si tahw fo a evah lla eW .noihsaf ni ’esrevid‘ aedi denimretederp dipar eht lla htiw tuB sa nwonk si tahw fo s’ti gnineppah segnahc .noihsaf ni ’esrevid‘ esrevid taht yllaer ton dipar eht lla htiw tuB seicnega ehT“ .eromyna s’ti gnineppah segnahc sledom rof og yllausu esrevid taht yllaer ton ,thgieh emas eht fo seicnega ehT“ .eromyna hcihw ecar dna thgiew sledom rof og yllausu steg dna citsilaernu si ,thgieh emas eht fo rebmA syas ”,gnirob hcihw ecar dna thgiew ledom emit-trap ,gnaW steg dna citsilaernu si shtnom neves dna rebmA syas ”,gnirob ecnatsni siht nI .tnangerp ledom emit-trap ,gnaW ot gnirrefer ton m’I shtnom neves dna ohw ’sledom esrevid‘ ecnatsni siht nI .tnangerp si elamef a fi ’etitep‘ era ot gnirrefer ton m’I ,9’5 elam dna 7’5 rednu ohw ’sledom esrevid‘ elamef a fi ’ezis-sulp‘ si elamef a fi ’etitep‘ era dna 01 ezis evoba si ,9’5 elam dna 7’5 rednu yllaicar‘ ro ”43 elam elamef a fi ’ezis-sulp‘ t’nsi ledom a fi ’esrevid dna 01 ezis evoba si
nehw kool derised
yllaicar‘ ro ”43 elam
evah I“ ,gnitiurcer
t’nsi ledom a fi ’esrevid
”,’ylthgisnu‘ saw ti sa
01
.neB syas
9
11
12
“The agencies usually go for models representing one type of height, weight, race and appearance, which is unrealistic and gets boring.� Amber Wang
13
BEN 14
N
“I was told to take out my hearing aids for a shoot, as it was ‘unsightly’.”Ben Bowes
PHOTOGRAPHY Erika Bowes MODEL Ben Bowes SHIRT, TROUSERS Asos SHOES Asos
15
14
But there is no doubt that the industry is progressing. In the October 2013 issue of Clash Magazine I was stunned to see Moffy, a model with a compelling look. Her Strabismus, know as ‘cross-eye’, is what made her fascinating. It was refreshing to see a model with a completely different look on a conventional editorial. Moffy is the epitome of uniqueness and authenticity; words that may have lost their meaning to a trivial case of ‘gap-tooth’ or a fuller set of bristly eyebrows.
An encouraging fashion brand that uses the currency of visual imagery to its best is Debenhams. With the help from Caryn Franklin, the brand managed to recruit models with a variation of characteristics, e.g. athletes with prosthetic limbs, which ensured diversity was a key element in their brand paradigm. ‘If a hearing impaired girl sees another model with hearing impairment wearing a hat, its easier for her to imagine what it would look like on herself, as she can relate with that hearing disabled
model,’ says Ben. Not all influencers in fashion conform. Edward Enninful, W’s Fashion And Style Director says, “Without diversity creativity remains stagnant.” Casting directors, designers and the publishing industry that have the power to iconize all different bodies. “Having a larger diversity will bring more confidence into the public interms of clothing,” says Ben. So why is it still unusual, in the 21st century, to see models less than the cookie-cutter perfect?
16
Edward Enninful
“Without diversity creativity remains s G
tA
N E N
t
17
18
19
FU G
E
N
20
CK D
E
R
21
Poppy & Nathan
22
23
What does sexuality mean to you? I don't think sexuality is really a 'thing' anymore I don't think it’s important. obviously I think there's people that are 100% straight but I’d say there’s more and more people that find someone attractive regardless of their gender. - Nathan
How is sexuality portrayed in the fashion industry? I think sexuality in fashion is mostly represented through but fashion is something that has always been more important and directed at women. More reduce the divide between men and women in any industry - Nathan
PHOTOGRAPHY Erika Bowes MODEL Nathan Ward, Poppy Lockwood STYLING Erika Bowes
h the eye of a man, the creative directors of some of the biggest labels, Balmain, Chanel are men and more female models are look more masculine and vice versa, I think it's a good thing to
What does sexuality mean to you? Sexuality for me is something that isn’t really important. Your attracted to which has increased pressure on what is the right “type” of sexuality - Poppy
26
what you like and you should always acknowledge that. There’s too much emphasis on sexuality
How is sexuality portrayed in the fashion industry? I feel you can express your sexuality through fashion and you always kinda have been able to especially since the punk era. Girls can dress like guys and visa versa. It’s great! - Poppy
27
28
29
Describe your friendship with poppy? Me and poppy are like the same person, We’re obviously best friends and there’s nothing I wouldn’t tell her I think everyone needs someone like her in their lives.
30
Describe your friendship with Nathan? Nathan is my best friend. Our friendship is kinda like a brother and sister relationship. I can tell him anything and I can be truthful with him. Like I can say that he doesn’t look great in some shoes and he wouldn’t take offence!
31
THE DIVERSITY ISSUE