Lewis County Weekender April 4, 2019

Thursday, April 4, 2019

THE FISHING BUSINESS ISN’T WHAT IT USED TO BE

MILLIONS OF FISH RELEASED EACH YEAR FROM COWLITZ HATCHERY

— page 10

— Page 4

THE FISH DOCTOR IS IN — page 8

THE FISHING ISSUE

WORKING WHILE HIGH: STUDY SHOWS ONE IN FOUR WORKERS BUZZED ON THE JOB — Page 12

2 • LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

THROUGH APRIL 7

The Evergreen Playhouse presents “The Secret Garden.” This enchanting classic of children’s literature is reimagined in brilliant musical style by composer Lucy Simon and Marsha Norman, the Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright of “Night Mother.”

Orphaned in India, 11-year-old Mary Lennox returns to Yorkshire to live with her embittered, reclusive uncle Archibald and his invalid son Colin.

The estate’s many wonders include a magic garden which beckons the children with haunting melodies and the “Dreamers,” spirits from Mary’s past who guide her through her new life, dramatizing The Secret Garden’s compelling tale of forgiveness and renewal. Performance dates and times are Friday (April 5), 7:30 p.m. Saturday (April 6), and 2 p.m. Sunday (April 7). Cost is $15 adults, and $12 for students and seniors. The Evergreen Playhouse is located at 226 W Center St., Centralia. Info: 360.736.8628

tap into the scene

of classic theater at the Roxy in Morton, opens at 7 p.m. Cost is $13 at the door. By Tennessee Williams, Amanda Wingfield is a faded, tragic remnant of Southern gentility who lives with her son, Tom, and her daughter, Laura. Amanda strives to give meaning and direction to her life and the lives of her children, but her methods are ineffective and irritating. A drama of great tenderness, charm and beauty, this is one of the most famous plays of modern theatre.

FRIDAY, APRIL 5

The Red Rubber Shootout, an indoor dodgeball tournament, takes place Friday through Sunday at the NW Sports Hub in Centralia. The tournament takes place on six full sized dodgeball courts playing at once with upper-deck spectator seating, a full bar, restaurant, vendor area, and more.

Flood Valley Brewery in Chehalis presents Highwater Hilarities: April Edition with Susan Rice, from evening 8-9:30 p.m. Flood Valley is located at 289 NW Chehalis Ave. Portland’s Susan Rice has been featured on Showtime, HBO, the Las Vegas Comedy Festival, and Evening at the Improv. Susan is joined by Seattle transplant by way of Dallas, Thomas Nichols. Deadpan, hilarious, and wise beyond his 28 years, Nichols is a nationally touring comic who’s been featured at the Funniest Comic in Texas Competition, Seattle International Competition and was a finalist at the SUSAN New York Finger Lakes RICE Festival and Denver

MERLE HAGGARD STARRING CHRIS GUENTHER

FRIDAY AND SATURDAY, APRIL 12-13 Glass

Menagerie,

an

Make Me Laugh Festival. Hosted South Sound Speedway revs up by the Louisiana Slow Burn himself, for the spring and summer racing season with late models, mini stocks, Chase Mayers. Cost is $10. hobby stocks and tuners taking on the track starting at 6:30 p.m. South SATURDAY, APRIL 6 Sound Speedway is located at 3730 City Farm in Chehalis presents Merle 183rd Ave. SW near Rochester, just Haggard starring Chris Guenther off Highway 507. Gates open at and special guest. This is a musical 4:45 p.m. Racing is every Saturday tribute and documentary. The show from April through September. Info: starts at 7 p.m. Tickets are $15 at the southsoundspeedway.com. door. City Farm is located at 456 N Market Blvd. in downtown Chehalis.

Info: 360.490.1831, cityfarmchehalis. com.

SEE PAGE 3.....................................

LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019 • 3

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High Class at White Pass Ski Area, 6-9 p.m. Support the White Pass Ski Patrol at the annual High Class at White Pass event. Silent auction, wine tasting and fabulous food make for a wonderful spring evening at the mountain. Items include everything from guided hikes and climbs to fly fishing in Montana. Epic trips, practical ski gear, or breathtaking works of art are available at the auction.

THURSDAY, APRIL 11

Genuine Outlaw Music — Chris Guenther plays American Roots Music at Willapa Hills Farm with all proceeds to benefit the FFA Chapter of W.F. West High School.

Doors open at 6 p.m. with music from 6:30-8:30 p.m.

Tickets are available online (rootmusic. brownpapertickets.com) and at the door. Willapa Hills Farm is located at 4680 State Route 6, Chehalis (19.6 miles west of I-5 Exit 77). Info: 360.291.3937.

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4 • LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019

Jared Wenzelburger / jwenzelburger@chronline.com

Fiberglass salmon hang in the visitor center at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery.

Hatchery’s Interactive Activities Provide Educational Opportunities for Everyone

By Lydia Denney LDENNEY@CHRONLINE.COM

Every year, the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery releases 7.5 million fish — up to 2,500 fish per day in the fall months — said Jamie Murphy, a natural resources biologist.

T h r o u g h o u t t h e y e a r, t h e hatchery focuses on teaching visitors the five H’s of a salmon’s life cycle: hatchery, hydropower, harvest, habitat and high seas.

Murphy has worked at the hatchery for 12 years and hopes the hatchery can educate visitors on the creation of

hydropower and raising fish. “ We l i k e p e o p l e t o g e t interested in (the hatchery),” Murphy said. “It’s something that we’re proud of and we want other people to be proud of.”

The hatchery was built in 1968 as the world’s largest salmon hatchery. Though the hatchery no longer owns that title, Tacoma Power has taken steps to improve the hatchery conditions, Murphy said. In 2010, the hatchery was rebuilt

and redesigned to make the processes more efficient and the hatchery more nature-like. Pools were redesigned to lower the risk of disease, sorting facilities were created for better efficiency and more.

“We’ve lost up to 50 percent of our fish from one disease before,” Murphy said.

Along with hatchery operations, the visitor center SEE PAGE 5.....................................

LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019 • 5

COWLITZ SALMON HATCHERY 199 Salmon Ln. Salkum, WA 98582

www.mytpu.org/ tacomapower/fish-wildlifeenvironment/cowlitz-riverproject/cowlitz-fisheriesprograms/cowlitz-salmonhatchery.htm FROM PAGE 4............................

was also updated to include more interactive, educational activities. Inside, surrounded by colorful walls and decorations, visitors can run a marble simulation that represents a salmon’s journey from the hatchery to the ocean and back, or color a picture and add it to the wall of art children have made.

Other activities include a game that tests a visitor’s ability to sort between hatchery salmon and native fish and a hanging wall of fiberglass salmon of different weights that demonstrate their various sizes. In the background, visitors will hear sounds of the

Jared Wenzelburger / jwenzelburger@chronline.com

Weekender reporter Lydia Denney holds a salmon at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery.

ocean; waves crashing and sea lions barking.

D u r i n g t h e s u m m e r, t h e hatchery will sometimes have

can observe on the self-guided tour is the separating facilities, where adult fish who come to the hatchery are counted, sorted and sent to different parts of the hatchery depending on their type and whether or not SEE PAGE 6.....................................

710 W. Main St., • Centralia, WA • (360) 669-5960

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Scott Gibson and Missy Baier sort salmon at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery.

a college intern who can take people on tours of the visitor center and hatchery. If no one is available to lead a tour, visitors can go on a self-guided tour by following the blue fish that create a path throughout the hatchery, with informational signs along the way.

One of the areas that visitors

6 • LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019

Jared Wenzelburger / jwenzelburger@chronline.com

A wall of the visitor center at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery shows a salmon’s life journey.

FROM PAGE 5. . ...........................

they started their own lives in a hatchery.

During the separation process, DNA and scale samples are taken from the fish before they are sent to the ponds.

The fish are also checked for a coded wire tag (CWT), a small, magnetized device that

A wall in the visitor center at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery where children who visit the hatchery can leave their art.

helps identify a fish. Another way fish are often identified as hatchery fish is if their adipose fin is clipped. The adipose fin is clipped on juvenile fish at the hatchery where, on average, 75,000 fish have their adipose fin removed every day.

The self-guided tour also allows visitors to view the hatchery’s holding ponds and juvenile raceways. Holding ponds are

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they can sit in here for another couple weeks at least.”

Last, but certainly not least, visitors can view the fish ladder, how adult fish return to the hatchery. During the fall, the hatchery sees more and more visitors come to fish at their sites near the fish ladder, Murphy said. “(Fishing) should start picking up as more fish come up,” Murphy said. “If you stop at the Blue Creek launch, you’ll see a lot more traffic down there.”

Past the fish ladder is another fishing site that is also ADA accessible. Built in 2007, the ADA accessible fishing ramp allows visitors to fish at different levels, from 2,500 CFS up to 14,000 CFS. There is another ADA accessible fishing site at Blue Creek, which is close by at the Cowlitz Trout Hatchery. The only things visitors need to fish at the hatchery are fishing gear and a fishing license.

where adult fish are kept before spawning and the raceways are home to juvenile fish that are still growing, which can be spring Chinook, fall Chinook and Coho salmon.

“The hatchery tries to mimic the wild as much as possible,” Murphy said. “What we’ll do is we’ll pull the screens and the fish can leave whenever they want...

If (the fish) aren’t quite ready, SEE PAGE 7.....................................

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LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019 • 7

FROM PAGE 6. . ...........................

Murphy said in the past few years, the hatchery has had poor fish returns but that they have continued to try practices that track fish and fight predation of salmon after they leave the hatchery.

“We’re not doing anything different, but we’re doing everything we can,” Murphy said.

Some of the solutions the hatchery has tried include putting up nets to prevent birds from eating the fish and contracting with a company whose employees will harass birds that try to land on the pond.

“In the past, we have had birds land and eat so many fish in 30 seconds that they couldn’t fly off again,” Murphy said. “We lost a lot of fish, so we make sure

Salmon at the spawning facilities at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery.

Jared Wenzelburger / jwenzelburger@chronline.com

A scale sample is taken from a salmon at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery.

we have that practice in place.”

Another issue affecting returns was that the hatchery didn’t know how many fish were dying or getting eaten after leaving the hatchery, so they started using passive integrated transponder (PIT) tags to track

fish, Murphy said.

“You see so many anglers going, ‘Tacoma (Power) and the (Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife) are just ruining the fisheries,’ and then when they see the process they go, ‘Oh wow, they’re actually

doing all these great things,’” Murphy said.

For more information about the hatchery, visit the Tacoma Public Utilities website at www. mytpu.org/tacomapower/fishwildlife-environment/.

Jamie Murphy explains where fish will go after leaving the hatchery.

Small Coho salmon at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery.

A salmon at the separating facilities.

8 • LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019

‘Nightmare’ Jig Pattern Created by Chehalis Resident

By Lydia Denney

LDENNEY@CHRONLINE.COM

From tying flies at age seven to running a commercial jig business, K.C. Goodman knows the ins and outs of how to catch a fish.

Goodman has lived in Chehalis his whole life, fishing for steelhead and salmon all over the Pacific Northwest. In 1992, he started Fish Doctor Jigs with his late wife Debby Goodman, researching how to create the best fishing jig.

“I’m sitting back and thinking, ‘Okay, why is this working so well?’”

Goodman said. “I’ve had to sit and put myself in the fish brain.”

Goodman was nicknamed the

FISH DOCTOR JIGS Owner, K.C. Goodman www.facebook.com/ fishdrjigs/ “Fish Doctor” by Casey Beck, an employee of the Chehalis Fire Department, who would often ask Goodman where to go fishing.

When Goodman decided to start his business, he knew it had to be named Fish Doctor Jigs. Two years after starting the business, Goodman had his hands full making two-pattern jigs when a friend requested a three pattern jig; pearl white head, flame and black.

“I said, ‘If this ends up being the one, you keep that to yourself because this will end up being a nightmare for me,’” Goodman said.

Sure enough, the three-pattern jig was an instant success, and the “Nightmare” was born. Goodman said tackle shops had to have reservation lists for customers who wanted to buy the pattern. The white and flame colors mimic the eggs that steelhead like to eat, making the “Nightmare” the best pattern for catching steelhead, Goodman said.

Goodman makes his jigs from scratch, starting with a blank hook.

He describes his jigs as “soupedup crappie jigs with colors custom-

Courtesy Photo

K.C. Goodman with a summer run steelhead on the Kalama River.

catered for salmon and steelhead fishing.” The “Nightmare” pattern is over 55 percent of the Fish Doctor Jigs’ sales, Goodman said.

Fish Doctor Jigs includes other options like twitching jigs and rubber-banded jigs, all of which Goodman uses. Goodman researches the best hooks and pattern combinations to make the most successful jigs, which are sold

in tackle shops all over the Pacific Northwest.

“I fished with all the other commercial brands for a couple of years, but with all the trouble with the hooks and realizing that there were other patterns and colors and ways to do it that I liked… It wasn’t long, the way I am passionate SEE PAGE 9.....................................

LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019 • 9

about stuff, that I thought, ‘Okay, I’m going to make my own and make a better steelhead trap,’” Goodman said.

In the past, Goodman would provide fishing clinics, usually at his home, where he would teach people fishing techniques.

However, recent decline in fish returns have affected Goodman’s clinics and production.

“I would like to see people get in involved with groups that are advocates for sportsmen,” Goodman said. “There’s definitely going to have to be some change.”

Goodman said he has seen a 15 year decline in fish returns,

especially with hatchery cuts. He stays busy all year so that he has stock for busy seasons, but if there is no fish, he could be in trouble, Goodman said.

“It has affected everybody regionally here,” Goodman said.

“It has affected manufacturers, retailers, guides, especially tackle stores on the rivers, motels, restaurants.”

Goodman has a lifetime of fishing stories, but one of his favorites happened after he married his wife Janie Harris-Goodman. They had friends who went out to fish on the river and didn’t catch anything, but after meeting with the pastor who married K.C. and Janie, they prayed that their friends would

catch fish. Two days later, their friends called K.C. saying they had caught 7 fish, the only fish caught that day besides another man who caught one fish using one of the Fish Dr. Jigs’ “Nightmare” patterns.

Goodman’s late wife Janie was instrumental in the promotion of Fish Doctor Jigs, especially on social media, Goodman said. Four years ago, they got a spot in the conservation hall at the fair where Goodman can give out fishing tips and tell fishing stories to his heart’s content.

T h e re a r e m a n y s t o r i e s o f Goodman and other fisherman

Courtesy Photos

From left to right: The ‘Nightmare’ pattern; Spring Chinook bait jigs with rubber bands; ‘Ultra Nightmare’ jigs; a variety of jig styles made by Fish Doctor Jigs.

being the only ones to catch a fish on a river filled with people fishing, all because of Goodman’s jigs and technique.

“Hopefully it’s not just going to be fish stories in the future,” Goodman said.

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10 • LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019

Dying Trade: Chehalis Resident No Longer Guiding

By Lydia Denney

LDENNEY@CHRONLINE.COM

Starting at a young age, Lee Barkie had an interest in fishing and a wonderment at what existed below the water’s

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surface. Born and raised fishing the Cowlitz, Barkie has spent the past 30 years learning new tricks, trying new things and running a fishing guide business.

However, after a back injury and the decreasing return in fish, Barkie hasn’t been able to guide for the past two years.

“You can only take people so long and not catch any fish and they stop going with you,” Barkie said. “I refuse to take people when I know it’s slow.”

In the past, Barkie worked in construction on and off, but he became involved in sport fishing around 1987 when he was working at tackle shop where customers would often ask for fishing guide references. Soon after Barkie became friends with other fishing guides, he began guiding full time. Today, however, many guides say you can’t make it as a full time guide anymore because there is such a lack of fish, it doesn’t pay to go, Barkie said.

“As a full time guide, we started having issues with the fish management plan on the Cowlitz River,” Barkie said. “The Cowlitz River is the bread and butter for this community.”

Over the past 30 years, Barkie

Courtesy Photo

Lee Barkie fishing on the Columbia River.

spent time representing sport fisheries at a state level, going to meetings all over Washington and Oregon because he wanted to enhance sport fishing for the economy and for children, Barkie said. Now, Barkie said he worries about running out of fish in his lifetime.

“I want to do it for the kids,” Barkie said. “I know how much I enjoyed it growing up… they all want to go fishing but they don’t want to go on a boat ride. It’s no fun to go if you don’t catch anything.”

Because of low fish returns over the last decade, he has seen a lot of businesses affected including his own, Barkie said. Even though he is no longer guiding, motels, restaurants and other guides continue to call Barkie to ask why business has decreased.

“You build your business up, you build your name up, you try to do everything right,” Barkie SEE PAGE 11.....................................

LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019 • 11

FROM PAGE 10. . ..........................

said. “But, like far ming, you can be a great farmer, but all it takes is a rainstorm.”

In 2000, Barkie began fishing on the Columbia River where there were more fish and said he is known as the first guide to work that river. Barkie said he spent time lear ning how to catch fish there before everyone else started fishing on the Columbia around 2008.

“For me to keep catching fish and keep guiding, I would have to move to the Columbia River and learn how to catch those fish,” Barkie said. “I worked very hard at it, at my own expense.

I didn’t ask for help from anybody.”

Not only is the lack of fish affecting businesses, but it is also now affecting the ocean and Orca whales, Barkie said.

One reason he thinks the fish retur n has continued to

decrease is that hatcheries a r e n ’ t compensating for the fish that die or are eaten after they leave the hatchery.

Barkie wishes that the money f ro m f i s h i n g l i c e n s e s w o u l d be used for the hatcheries to follow the laws in place and for the hatcheries to focus on predation issues.

In 2016, a new fish management plan was supposed to be completed and released, but Barkie argued Tacoma Power and the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife are still mismanaging the hatcheries. “ Yo u ’ v e g o t t w o b i g companies raising these fish, and when it doesn’t go as it’s supposed to, you get the general public and other people that start pointing fingers at each company,” Barkie said.

Courtesy Photo

Lee Barkie fishing with his grandson on the Cowlitz River in 2015.

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12 • LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019

By Gene Balk

THE SEATTLE TIMES

It’s probably not a good idea — and it can’t be great for productivity — but that’s not stopping a lot of Washingtonians from doing it.

I’m talking about getting

high at work.

One in four marijuana users who are employed admit to doing this within the past year, according to a new survey of cannabis consumers in Washington, Oregon and Colorado, three states where recreational weed is legal.

One in four also said they’ve

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gotten high before work — I’m guessing it’s the same one in four, but the survey doesn’t specify.

The marketing communications firm Quinn Thomas, which has offices in Seattle and Portland, funded the survey, which was conducted by polling-andopinion outfit DHM Research.

A representative sample of 900 cannabis consumers were interviewed — 300 in each of the three states — from Jan. 8 to 14. The survey has a margin of error of plus or minus 3.3 percent.

“There is a lot of information out there about the cannabis industry and its regulatory structure, but not much is known about consumers,” said Zach Knowling, vice president at Quinn Thomas, in an email.

“We felt our experience researching and reaching unique audiences could build greater understanding of who they are.”

Washington and Colorado both legalized

recreational use of marijuana through voter initiatives in 2012, becoming the first states to do so. Oregon followed in 2014.

The survey shows that after legalization, many cannabis consumers increased their usage. In Washington 44 percent of respondents said they are now regular consumers of pot (daily or a few times per week), compared with 36 percent who said they consumed that much prelegalization.

With legalization, it seems that marijuana has entered into the mainstream. Indeed, the survey data show that recreational-cannabis consumers look pretty much like the average American.

They are a close match to the U.S. average for household income and educational attainment. In the three states that were surveyed, pot users match the general population breakdowns in terms of race and ethnicity, age, politicalSEE PAGE 13....................................

LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019 • 13

FROM PAGE 12. . ..........................

the most trusted source of information about cannabis, party affiliation and other well demographic factors. above There is one significant doctors exception: Gender. Cannabis and public consumers skew male by health about 60 percent, according officials. to the survey.

That surprised us,” Knowling Even though marijuana is said. “There’s an opportunity legal and widely popular in for state officials and health the three states surveyed, care experts to increase their the great majority of users (79 role, particularly because percent) still feel there is some consumers told us they want lingering social more information.” stigma attached Smoking is the most to it. Only about popular method of cannabis half say they consumption — a little more are completely than half said that’s how they transparent with usually use it. Only 18 percent family and friends typically consume edibles, about their use of which ranks second, followed the drug. by vaping and topicals (oils Even if folks feel or creams), some social stigma still exists, in that a lot of marijuana users aren’t order. exactly secretive about it — A large at least that’s true in Seattle, percentage of consumers where the passing smell of pot surveyed reported a modest smoke has become one of household income, so it’s the defining characteristics of not surprising that 62 percent city sidewalks. While the great pointed to price as one of the majority of those surveyed two most important factors said that home is the primary when purchasing marijuana place they consume cannabis, (THC potency came in second, more than one in six said they at 45 percent). Still, consumers typically get stoned away from overwhelmingly said they want home. the retail experience of buying Survey respondents pot to be more like going to expressed a need for accurate a nice wine shop than to a information regarding safety convenience store for a sixand health of cannabis use, pack. and just about half Speaking of alcohol, nearly a (49 percent) said quarter of survey respondents they trusted their said the reason they use local retailer for cannabis is as an alternative that. In comparison, to liquor. But the two most only 38 percent common reasons selected for said they trust pot use are reducing stress and their health-care anxiety, and reducing pain. provider.

One remarkable finding “Staff at of the survey is that lowerdispensaries are

income folks spend the most on marijuana. One quarter of consumers with a household income of less than $25,000 spent more than $500 in a year. As you go higher up the income ladder, the likelihood of spending that much money on pot gets progressively lower.

In light of that finding, Washington’s 37 percent sales-tax rate on marijuana seems particularly burdensome to people with lower incomes.

While the survey shows that getting stoned at work is a fairly commonplace activity, so is drug testing.

Twenty-one percent of respondents said they’ve been subjected to a drug test that checked for cannabis within the past year. And just about the same number said they

stopped getting high for a while in order to pass the test.

It worked for most. Nine percent indicated that they still failed the test.

The time is now! Candidates needed for Centralia City Council.

Opportunity knocking.

Volunteer for change.

Go to cityofcentralia.com for requirements and benefits.

Filing deadline for candidates is May 13th thru 17th.

Email opencentralia@yahoo.com P.O. Box 433, Centralia (360) 810-6727

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14 • LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019

By Lorraine Ali

LOS ANGELES TIMES

Vampires do not eat pizza, which is problematic for the main characters of FX’s new half-hour comedy, “What We Do in the Shadows.” They’re facing an eternity in Staten Island — which may be redundant — and what else is there to consume when the humans they feast upon taste sad?

The drawbacks of immortality meet the farcical realities of present-day suburban life in this 10-episode series created by Jemaine Clement (“Flight of the Conchords”).

“What We Do in the Shadows,” which was to premiere Wednesday, is carefully crafted and hilarious. For example, its undead include an “energy vampire” whose expertise is literally boring people to death, and who hasn’t had one of those in their lives?

The series’ juxtaposition of the supernatural and mundane is the perfect setting for a pack of underachieving vampires who’d rather stay home and bicker than subjugate mankind. The sharpwitted docu-satire follows them as they halfheartedly seek total control and dominance of the New World, as ordered by their returning master and Dark Lord.

He’d handed down the orders over a century ago, but they

John P. Johnson / FX Networks

Matt Berry and Natasia Demetriou in “What We Do in the Shadows.”

all apparently forgot. Now they’re waylaid by their own internal bickering (they’ve been roommates forever, after all) and the fact that they’re all hopelessly out of touch with the society they’re supposed to conquer.

The first issue: defining the New World. Is it just Staten Island, or perhaps all of North America?

“What would anyone want with Canada?” asks vampire Laszlo (Matt Berry).

“It has a very active trade in beaver pelts,” argues his peer, Nandor (Kayvan Novak).

The series is inspired by the 2014 feature film of the same name starring its creators, Clement and Taika Waititi. Both write and executive produce the series along with Paul Simms. The two actors do not star in the FX series, but Clement (who also directs episodes) says fans of the film might be surprised by who they see drop into the series.

“We know what it’s like to dress up in all that (period) clothing from doing the film,” said New Zealander Clement during a recent stop in Los Angeles. “It’s heavy.”

Waititi, also from New Zealand, shuddered: “And wearing those teeth all day, and the wires (to make them fly). All those buttons.

No. Just no.”

“That’s at least one reason why we brought actors in,” said Clement of the new series. “And they’re good. Much better than we were.”

The fresh cast of pale faces includes Nandor the Relentless (Novak), once a ruthless Ottoman Empire warrior who’s supposed to lead the new charge. But he prefers to stick around the house, dusting chandeliers and putting up party decor for the arrival of the Dark Lord. “See, it’s creepy paper,” he says proudly, pointing to his package of crepe paper

streamers.

His fellow undead are Laszlo (Berry), a dapper British fop who dresses at the height of 18th-century fashion and Nadja (Natasia Demetriou), a wise seductress who looks as if she just stepped out of Bram Stoker’s Transylvania. Both are exasperated with their de facto leader and conspire against him at any chance. Their fourth roommate, energy vampire Colin Robinson (Mark Proksch), is the most in touch with the world outside their oftclosed doors because he’s a daywalker.

In contrast to Nandor’s heavy cape and ornate vests, Colin wears drab cardigans and works in a drab office, where he sits at a drab cubicle. He drains humans of their life force with long, drawnout explanations about public bus routes or pencil sharpeners. He’d bore the vampires to death too — if only they could die.

LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019 • 15

By Sharyn Jackson

STAR TRIBUNE

At the end of a handwritten recipe for the herbal spirit cherrie water there’s a note about an optional ingredient.

“And a graine of Ambergreece with itt if you Like itt,” writes Ann Ward in her circa 1724 “Book of Receipts.” She was referring to ambergris, a waxy secretion from a whale’s intestines.

Sourcing that ingredient posed a challenge for the team at Tattersall Distilling in Minneapolis, which spent the past year experimenting with antique alcohol recipes.

This deep-dive into historic spirit-making — a collaboration b e t w e e n Ta t t e r s a l l , t h e Minneapolis Institute of Art and the Wangensteen Historical Library of Biology and Medicine at the University of Minnesota — resulted in “Alcohol’s Empire,” an online exhibition and recipe book.

The offbeat collaboration came about when Nicole LaBouff, associate curator of textiles at Mia, created an installation of a party in a 1700s French grand salon in one of the museum’s period rooms.

“As I was touring the space, people would ask me what type of alcohol they would have consumed at these parties,” LaBouff said. She didn’t know the answers, so she decided to delve into the history of “the alcoholic landscape” to find out.

She contacted Emily E. Beck, assistant curator at the U’s historical medical library, who uncovered troves of rare cookbooks, household manuals and pharmaceutical books filled with distillation recipes from that era.

LaBouff had hoped to make some period drinks and serve them at the museum, “but as we started to get to work, we realized we needed professional help,” she said. That’s when she and Beck approached Tattersall.

Since then, the distillery has introduced a line of historic liquors and liqueurs it is sampling at a sold-out tasting this week and on a limited basis in its northeast Minneapolis cocktail room. In addition to the online exhibition, Mia is also hosting a lecture Sunday on the history of rum and 18th-century distilling..

By re-creating original recipes, Tattersall is joining a wave of Twin Cities drink-makers who are serving up history. Driven by curiosity, the need for novelty and a longing to connect to the past, distillers, brewers, cider-makers and mixologists are mining everything from archaic documents to travelogues to discover an older — and some say, better — way of drinking.

A Minneapolis cider house has tracked down apple varieties grown in Thomas Jef ferson’s

Carlos Gonzalez / Minneapolis Star Tribune

Milk Punch and Pear Ratafia at Tattersall Distilling.

orchard. A St. Paul, Minn., bar is mixing up pre-Prohibition-era cocktails. And a Minnesota brewery is making a series of 19th-century beers.

They’re developing workarounds for hard-to-find ingredients and nearly forgotten processes in the hopes of reclaiming some of the rich history of American distilling and cocktail making that has been lost to time, changes in production and Prohibition. Of course, they also hope to lure drinkers by introducing them to uncommon flavors.

Like ambergris.

After failing to find it, Bentley G i l l m a n , Ta t t e r s a l l ’ s d i s t i l l e r y manager, experimented with another ingredient with a similar

flavor: labdanum, a resin that collects on the beards of goats.

Ultimately, his version of cherrie water tur ned out to be tasty enough without ambergris or labdanum. But when it came to finding viper flesh and opium for the bubonic plague-fighting spirit plague water? Those ingredients had to be replaced, too. As did the arsenic-containing bitter almonds in the liqueur ratafia.

Many of the old recipes also had gaps in information or didn’t explain measurements thoroughly, leaving makers to test their knowledge to come up with a balanced drink. The cherrie water, for example, calls for “half a handful of the topps of Rosemary, as much Of Balme.”

16 • LEWIS COUNTY WEEKENDER • The Chronicle, Centralia/Chehalis, WA. Thursday, April 4, 2019

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