The Forager's Kitchen by Fiona Bird

My paternal grandmother lived in Kew Gardens, and a childhood treat would be a visit to The Original Maids Of Honour Tearoom. Kew, synonymous with flowers and the Maids of Honour cake were my inspiration for this recipe. If time is on your side, you might make 12 small tarts, a style more in keeping with the authentic Maids of Honour.

CUSTARD TART with Voilets Makes one 8-inch (20cm) tart or 12 individual tarts

What to forage and find: For the crust: 1½ cups (200g) all-purpose (plain) flour ½ stick (50g) butter 3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon (50g) lard 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon Violet Syrup, page 00 mixed with 3 tablespoons water (see Wild Notes, below)

* * * * *

For the filling: 5 eggs ¼ cup (50g) superfine (caster) sugar 1 scant cup (200ml) heavy (double) cream 3 tablespoons fresh violets

* * * *

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Flowers & Berries

What to do: 1 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C/gas mark 6).

2 Make the pastry. Sift the flour into a bowl and rub in the fats until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.

Wild Not es

Violet s yrup in the past necessa ry is no ry; just t u se water haven’t if you any sy r u p . You m like to a ight dd a few washed shredde and drie d d violet (chiffon leaves ade), eit her to th pastry e or custa rd or bo Alterna th. tively u se small shaped heartleaves o n top of t h e tart for deco ration.

3 Add the egg yolk to the violet water and then add enough liquid to the pastry so that it binds. You may not need all of the liquid.

4 Knead the pastry briefly until smooth. Wrap in plastic wrap (clingfilm) and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

5 Roll the pastry out thinly to line an 8-inch (20cm) greased flan dish.

Bake blind (line the dish with foil and baking beans) in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove the foil and beans, and bake for another 5–6 minutes until the base is golden.

Take the dish out of the oven and reduce the temperature to 300°F (150°C/gas mark 2).

6 Lightly beat the eggs, add the sugar and cream, and beat briefly.

7 Scatter two handfuls of the violets over the prepared tart base and pour in most of the cream mixture. Put the flan dish on a baking sheet and put it in the oven. Add the remaining cream mixture, and scatter the remaining violets over the top. (This avoids overflow spillage en route to the oven). Bake for about 40 minutes, until the custard is just firm; it will continue setting after baking.

Foraging can be arduous, but sometimes you come across a heavily laden crab apple tree, or blackberry bush, and this is the time to think about making fruit leathers. If the fruit is sweet, there isn’t any need to add sugar or honey, but if you’ve foraged crab apples, you’ll need some. This straightforward snack is simply condensed.

CARROT and Clover CAKE Serves 8

What to forage and find:

* 1½ cups (200g) grated * * * * * *

carrots 2 ⁄3 cup (150ml) canola (rapeseed) oil 2 ⁄3 cup (125g) superfine (caster) sugar 6 clover flowers, washed and segmented 2 extra large (2 large UK) eggs scant 2 cups (250g) selfrising flour 1 heaping teaspoon baking powder.

For the frosting (icing): ½ stick (50g) soft unsalted butter 1¼ cups (150g) sifted confectioners’ (icing) sugar 3 clover flowers, washed and segmented

* * *

What to do: 1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/gas mark 4).

2 Line an 8-inch (20cm) round cake pan (tin) with parchment paper.

3 Wash, peel (if necessary), and finely grate the carrots.

4 Measure the oil and sugar into a bowl, add the segmented clover flowers, and beat in the eggs.

7 To make the frosting: sift the confectioners’ sugar into a bowl and beat in the softened butter.

Add most of the segmented clover flowers, reserving a few to decorate the carrot and clover cake.

8 Spread the clover frosting on top of the cold cake, and sprinkle the reserved flower segments over the top.

5 Sift the flour and baking powder into the bowl and add the grated carrot.

Fold the flour and carrot mixture into the oil, sugar, clover, and eggs.

6 Turn the mixture into the prepared pan and bake for 40–45 minutes until the cake is firm and well risen (it will shrink away from the sides of the pan). Cool for 5 minutes, then invert the cake onto a wire rack.

Wild Notes Make the frosting using flowerinfused superfine (caster) sugar — see flower and herb sugars, page 00.

Flowers & Blossom

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Wild Notes

Makes 4 thin layers, about 35–40 strips

What to forage and find:

* 4 ½ cups (600g) washed blackberries * Juice of 1 small lemon * 3–4 teaspoons wild thyme sugar to taste (see Wild Notes below)

What to do:

Children will enjoy eating fruit leathers, but they are fun to make too. They can stamp out tiny stars, or even butterflies using miniature aspic jelly cutters available from craft shops. This recipe can be adapted for any wild fruit. Leathers can also be made with autumn berries such as rose hips and hawthorn berries, and stewed quince or apple. Cook them in a saucepan with lemon juice and minimal water until the fruit and berries are soft, then push the mixture through a sieve. The end result will definitely boost your vitamin C level. A mouli food mill is extremely useful when sieving purées with lots of seeds, e.g., rose hips and hawthorn berries.

To make wild herb sugar, put a sprig of the chosen herb into a jar of superfine (caster) sugar and set aside. You will have to use your judgment, as some herbs are stronger than others.

1 Put the blackberries and lemon juice in a food processor and blend well.

Add sugar to taste.

To oven dry: 2 Push the blackberry purée through a plastic sieve and drain into a pitcher (jug). You should have about 1¾ cups (400ml) of purée.

Blackberry and Wild Thyme LEATHERS Foraging can be arduous, but sometimes you come across a heavily laden crab apple tree, or blackberry bush, and this is the time to think about making fruit leathers. If the fruit is sweet, there isn’t any need to add sugar or honey, but if you’ve foraged crab apples, you’ll need some. This straightforward snack is simply condensed (puréed) fruit dried until it becomes leather-like — easy peasy. I make this wicked blackberry leathers recipe for Halloween, but you can, if you are fortunate enough to forage enough berries, make it with raspberries and strawberries. Raspberries, wild strawberries, and blackberries can be dried individually, and added to muesli, or eaten as a snack.

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Fruits & Berries

3 If using a food dehydrator, pour the purée as thinly as possible over 3–4 racks lined with parchment paper.

Drying time will be dependent on the thickness of the purée and the type of machine used. I move the layers around during drying time, because the top will dry quicker than the bottom. I find it easier to allow the leather to cool before removing the paper. Cut the leathers into strips, and roll into coils, or roll into one thick length and cut into more substantial leathers. Store in an airtight container.

If you don’t have a food dehydrator, divide the purée between two oven trays, lined with parchment paper or oiled foil. You need a smooth, thin layer no thicker than a piece of paper. It is important to spread the purée evenly, or thinner edges will cook/ dry too quickly.

Bake at the lowest temperature the oven will register for 12–24 hours, until the purée is dry and peels away from the paper or foil with ease. Watch the color as the purée begins to dry out; it may be necessary to prop open the oven door to continue drying very slowly.

Fruits & Berries

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My paternal grandmother lived in Kew Gardens, and a childhood treat would be a visit to The Original Maids Of Honour Tearoom.

Kew, synonymous with flowers and the Maids of Honour cake were my inspiration for this recipe. If time is on your side, you might make 12 small tarts, a style more in keeping with the authentic Maids of Honour.

Seaweed PRALINE Makes one 8-inch (20cm) tart or 12 individual tarts

What to forage and find: For the crust: 1½ cups (200g) all-purpose (plain) flour ½ stick (50g) butter 3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon (50g) lard 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon Violet Syrup, page 00 mixed with 3 tablespoons water (see Wild Notes, below)

* * * * *

For the filling: 5 eggs ¼ cup (50g) superfine (caster) sugar 1 scant cup (200ml) heavy (double) cream 3 tablespoons fresh violets

* * * *

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Sea & Shore

What to do:

Wild Not es

Violet s yrup in the past necessa ry is no ry; just t use wat haven’t e r if you any sy rup. You like to a might dd a few washed shredde and drie d d violet (chiffon leaves ade), eit her to th pastry e or custa rd or bo Alterna th. tively u se small shaped heartleaves o n top of the tart for deco ration.

1 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C/gas mark 6).

2 Make the pastry. Sift the flour into a bowl and rub in the fats until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.

3 Add the egg yolk to the violet water and then add enough liquid to the pastry so that it binds.

4 Knead the pastry briefly until smooth. Wrap in plastic wrap

(clingfilm) and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

5 Roll the pastry out thinly to line an 8-inch (20cm) greased flan dish.

Bake blind (line the dish with foil and baking beans) in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove the foil and beans, and bake for another 5–6 minutes until the base is golden. .